The Yak #41 by The Yak Magazine

151 LAKSMANA ST SEMINYAK

JALAN RAYA SEMINYAK 36 KUTA BALI - PH. +62 361 730308 JALAN RAYA SANGGINGAN UBUD BALI - PH. +62 361 8878002 - JALAN DANAU TAMBLINGAN 37 SANUR BALI - PH. +62 361 270935 JALAN KEMANG RAYA 20 JAKARTA SELATAN - PH. +62 21 7182322 WWW.BIASABALI.COM

KARIM RABIK Ar tist

photo by MATTEO BASILÃ‰

Luxu ry

I n

Pri n t

Volume Forty-one dec/jan/feb 2013-2014

The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Nigel Simmonds

Publisher's PA Indrie Raranta

Creative Director Stuart Sullivan

Associate Publisher James Watling

Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki

Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Donny Bagus

Accounting Julia Rulianti

Distribution Made Marjana, Kadek Arthana, Putu Widi Susanto, Made Sutajaya, Didakus Nuba

Publisher PT Luxury In Print

Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011

Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 743 1804, 743 1805

www.theyakmag.com

#41: Shot on location in Istanbul by The Yak team. Photography Mehmet Erzincan Styling Ozlem Esen & Hakan Urfalioglu Photographer's Assistant Sinan Erol Hair Serkan Yildirim Makeup Gulum Erzincan Model Katarzyna Ciesielska at New Models Istanbul Faux fur jacket by Avencque available at Prisoners of St Petersburg. Sunglasses from Prisoners of St Petersburg. Skirt by Arzu Kaprol. Shirt by Endorphin. Necklace and bracelet by Ozlem Esen.

e: info@theyakmag.com, sales@theyakmag.com The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia

You know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed within this publication are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the

magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors.

The Yak Magazine Bali.

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The Yak’s monthly e-newsletter is sent

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to 10,000 mailboxes every month.

more at www.theyakmag.com

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A best friend is the one who in wishing you well, wishes it for your sake. By reservation only +62 361 731343 reservations@shirobar.com One Eleven 2 nd Floor #3 Pangkung Sari Seminyak 80361 Bali, Indonesia www.shirobar.com

Feed your imagination.

contents 32 34

Yakety yak

A Decadent Decade 15 minutes

George Sewell

Numbers of Note

Give It Up

Good Goods

Planet Yak

Aquabumps

Dreamtime

dates With destiny

one world

out of the box

new in the hood

culture vulture

Issues

84 22

Alexander The Great

Audrey Akman

Mercer-naries

Jeremy Irons

Sausan Machari

Ludovica Virga

100

Scott Hammell

102

Zohra Boukari

interview

profile

duoview

issues

profile

interview

Interview

158

104

The Other Pollock

110

Land Boys

114

Losing My Religion

120

Revolution

128

Constantinopolis

140

Friends of Wayan

artsake

culture vulture

fashion

omnibus

fashion

next gen

150

Squeeze

154

Cibo

oral pleasures

104

the pursuit of culinary adventure.

Restaurant Bookings Essential: +62 361 4737 809 or info@sarongbali.com Jl Petitenget No. 19X Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia www.sarongbali.com

www.facebook.com/sarong-bali

contents P: 120 Omnibus: come the revolution

158 162 166 170 174 180 186

oral pleasures

Gelato oral pleasures

Barbacoa oral pleasures

The Big Six oral pleasures

Dining Within Tent readership survey

Do It And Win yak awards

Motown Madness brands

Alila

110 26

190

venting in a villa

The Legian Suites

192

Rimba Style

194

Go For Gold

196 204 218 222

venting in a villa

spas

In With The New fashion freestyle

Client Clobber

226 230 234 236 238

music

Rave Reviews film

Ones To Watch astro yak

Star Turns advertiser's directory

What's What last word

Milo

Sounds Around

Michael Franti sounds around

Tatiana

150

162

AVAILABLE AT BALI Oberoi Seminyak Petitenget Beachwalk Mall Kuta Square

JAKARTA Lotte Shopping Avenue Mall Taman Anggrek

For more information call +62 811 386 1406 facebook.com/UNIVERSOIndonesia youtube.com/UNIVERSOIndonesia

universo.co.id

A BLISSFUL RETREAT Escape to Ubud and experience pure pampering for the body and soul with our Rejuvenate in Style package highlighting a daily spa treatment in the privacy of your own villa. Indulge in the sheer natural beauty of the resort, truly a one-of-a-kind oasis where one can relax and enjoy nature along with activities created to complement your quest for a revitalised you. Rates start at USD 653 ++ for a minimum stay of three nights. Accommodation in a one-bedroom spa villa I Daily breakfast and club services I Complimentary airport transfers I Daily 90-minute spa treatment Three-course healthy lunch at The Restaurant I Daily yoga session I Daily afternoon tea from 4:00 pm to 6:00 pm I Morning rice paddy trekking escorted by your butler

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TENGKULAK KAJA, UBUD

BALI 80571

INDONESIA

T (62) 361 975 685

F (62) 361 975 686

chediclububud@ghmhotels.com

WINNER

BEST BAR AWARDS

2013

I SUCCUMBED TO H E D O N I S M .

J L PE T I T E N G E T 5 , S E M I N YA K 08 2 1 4 74 17 3 3 2 / C H A R L I E B A L I .C O M

As the world helter-skelters into the mayhem of the haves and have-nots (a diamond was recently sold for a mere US$83-million), and Comet Ison passes by the side of the earth – admittedly 40 million miles away – we at The Yak are turning 10. In the last decade our fabulous island has gone from traffic flow to total block. Thankfully, however, there’s enough motion that we are able to welcome the arrival of a fabulous new wave of youthful creatives. This next generation – whom we photograph and write about – inspires us and keeps us in awe through each and every dreaded deadline. Thankfully so, as there have been a lot of them! So, climbing aboard once again – alongside the fabulous creatives who live on or visit Bali . . . writers, photographers and stylists, and the inimitable team that is Pt. Luxury in Print – we get to bring you our 41st issue. As the ferris wheel of this issue cranks up, we strap ourselves in and meet our Dates with Destiny, our One World and our Out of the Box, before we head off to discover all that is New In The Hood. Dreamtime leads us in to the fabulous people we get to meet who continually inspire us. And in this issue we even have a one-on-one with the gorgeous actorturned-philanthropist, Jeremy Irons, in Issues where he talks about his new documentary, Trashed. Slowly, as the big wheel turns, we have a word with an escapologist, an interior designer and some highly creative ‘arty’ people. As we reach the apex of our wonder ride we head to Constantinople for our off-island fashion pages . . . before finding out who exactly are the New Gen – the ones that will be taking over this ride when we decide to get off and head to the cotton candy store. The view from the top is fantastic, with myriad Oral Pleasures – all the way from the very savoury to the very sweet. Before your stomach does a little flip (we are talking ferris wheels here folks) please take time to fill in our readership survey – you get to have your say about us . . . we need to hear it after a whole decade of bringing you Yaktastic moments. After that why not take a peek at our ninth annual Yak awards . . . our 10th will be in the third quarter of 2014 so expect the expected – fabulosity all the way! Winding down, as the cogs slow in their turning, we hear about Alila – another fabulous home-grown icon . . . before we go for gold in our top spas . . . and Fashion Freestyle it all the way to the end of the ride with a parting word from Michael Franti. As the safety gates lift and it's time for us to get off, we get a good piece of advice from Dr. Deepak in our ever-popular Astroyak. We sign off - and out - from the funfair with our favourite parting words . . . may The Yak be with you.

yakback Dear Yak, From all the crew at Sarong - we're chuffed to win a Yak Award . . . we’re tickled pink - so thank you. It was an awesome night and hope everyone's hangovers weren't too brutal . . . Rae x Bali What happens at The Yak Awards stays at The Yak Awards . . . ouch! Dear Yak, Loved Sophie’s outfit at The Yak Awards! Almost didn’t recognise her. Great event, the music was spot-on. Congrats! Marian Carroll Bali Thanks Mazza . . . you rock too! Dear Yak, I was at one of our SKYE outlets last week and came across The Yak mag . . . it was such a pleasant reminder that I thought I’d send you a quick note. Hope all is well in Bali and looking forward to seeing you again soon. Erika Fries Jakarta Bisous darrrrling . . .

In The Lap Of: Justin Bieber Oh yes we all love to hate him for the brat he [and a billion other tweenagers] can be, but you gotta love The Biebs for his focus. And his uncles. Wondering how Townhouse managed to get him for the soft opening, we inquired. "His manager used to be my intern," said The Boss. "So I told him to get his arse along." And indeed he did. And was charming to everybody – except the amateur paps. Respect.

15 Minutes

GEORGE SEWELL CALLED ME AN IDIOT Above: George Sewell (centre): Don't call him craggy face.

tony stanton confesses he failed to recognise Michael Caine's best mate. I watched Get Carter for the first time the other day and realised I knew one of the villains. I mean I didn’t know him . . . like I know my mother, let’s say . . . I just recognised his face. I thought back 30 years to my time as a junior reporter on an evening newspaper in England and realised I’d actually met the guy one day in a hotel lobby in Peterborough. His name was George Sewell. Being a reporter back then was a relatively glamorous affair – if you worked in a bank that is. While most of my classmates had either gone off to university or joined the local water authority, I’d opted to become a journo. This entailed four terrifying years as an apprentice – making coffee, learning short hand (Pitman New Era) and covering parish council meetings, which in my particularly rural part of the provinces meant I got to sit in the corner of some very cold parish halls listening to arthritic farmers complain about kids. If you survived that you got to go to court. This was truly scary. It entailed sitting in the wings watching a parade of Neanderthals try to explain why they had failed to pay their fines, previously imposed for such crimes as public drunkenness, drink driving and grevious bodily harm (usually committed while drunk). Incredibly, I survived all this, and finally came the day when, as Senior Reporter, I was headhunted by the nearest BIG PAPER – the Peterborough Evening Telegraph. Off I went to the big city in my newly purchased secondhand MGB, and on arriving at work was given

an assignment to interview “an actor from the local panto”. George Sewell. I had no idea who he was. I discovered later that far from playing Widow Twankey, Mr Sewell was actually performing in a hi-brow play at the city’s most prestigous theatre. I forget the name of it. I forget the name of the hotel, too. In fact I didn’t really know anything at all about Mr Sewell at the time: who he was, what he had done or anything about his background . . . aside from one yellowed clipping from the newspaper’s library in which he had been described as “the craggyfaced actor George Sewell”. I sat down for the interview and looked over the table at this rather large, villainous-looking man – and couldn’t think of a single thing to ask him, other than: “So why do you think you’re known as ‘craggy face’. Does that work for you in panto?” Mr Sewell – friend of Michael Caine ¬ looked at me intently for about five seconds, stood up and then left. “You’re an idiot,” he said on his way out. I didn’t write the interview, because I didn’t have one to write. I told the news editor when I got back to the office that Mr Sewell had been unforthcoming with his answers and on the whole was not the sort of person I thought we should be including in the paper anyway. From that day on and for the next six months I was assigned to the paper’s Letters Page, otherwise known in the office as ‘Siberia’. Sewell was right.

calendar

datesWITHDESTINY SOULSHINE FESTIVAL Join both young and old to celebrate good music, good vibes and good environmental practice at the familyfriendly Soulshine Festival, which will be held at the world-renowned Green School Bali on December 27 and 28. The festival is dedicated to sustainability for Bali and the world, and the proceeds will go to Bumi Sehat Foundation to support its natural birthing clinics in Bali and Aceh. Funds raised will also be contributed to the Green School’s Indonesian Scholarship Fund, which provides free education for Indonesian children. This is in keeping with the festival’s aim to “educate, enlighten, and inspire.” The Soulshine Festival musical line-up will include Michael Franti and Spearhead, as well as more musical guests to be announced. In addition, there will be

an environmentally themed series of award-winning speakers and films, morning yoga, an eco kids zone, vendors and food booths, and social and environmental organisations tables and forums. www.soulshinefestival.com

IF YOU’RE IN JAPAN . . . January 25 – Wakakusa Yamayaki (Nara): For all pyromaniacs at heart, this is the festival for you. Wakakusa Yamayaki takes place in historic Nara city in Japan’s Kansai region, which is home to an impressive number of historical temples, shrines and ruins. Although the Wakakusa Yamayaki has been taking place since the 18th century, no one really knows exactly why it started. Some say it began as a border dispute between rival temples, while other say it was a method of ridding the area of wild boars. The ceremonies start with a throwing competition using giant rice crackers, followed by a spectacular fireworks display from the top of the mountain. Then a torch is lit and carried to a special shrine before the grass on the hill is set on fire and the blaze spreads like . . . well, wildfire across the mountain.

February 15 – Naked Man Festival (Hadaka Matsuri) (Okayama): It may be cold in Okayama in February, but that doesn’t stop about 10,000 Japanese men from stripping down to their loincloths or nothing at all and hitting the streets in the hopes of gaining good luck for the following year. Throughout the evening, the men make their way to the Saidai-ji Temple, where they battle for a good position in front of the priest. At midnight, the priest throws a sacred stick called a shingen into the crowds, and the lucky recipient who catches it is believed to be blessed with good luck, success and happiness for the duration of the year.

February 5 to February 11 – Sapporo Snow Festival: This is the largest and most extravagant winter festival in Japan, attracting over two million visitors every year. The event originated in 1950 when youngsters created snow sculptures at Odori Park in Sapporo, the capital of Hokkaido Island, and since then it has grown into a massive festival with three different active sites across the city. This year marks the 65th Sapporo Snow Festival, and visitors can expect grandiose and elaborately carved snow and ice sculptures by teams from around the world, as well as family-friendly snow slides, food stands and musical performances. Come dark, the sculptures will be lit up until 10pm every night, creating a vibrant night time winter wonderland. 38

Susan hu counts the days.

THAIPUSAM On the full moon of the 10th month of the (non Bali) Hindu calendar, Hindu devotees celebrate Thaipusam, and nowhere is this ceremony more colourful or chaotic than at the Batu Caves just outside Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia. This is a day to celebrate Shiva’s son, Murugan, who vanquished the evil demon, Soorapadman, with a spear given to him by Shiva’s consort, Pavarti. To commemorate this day, many Hindu people make offerings to Lord Murugan to thank him for granting

IF YOU’RE IN HONG KONG . . . December 8 – Longines Hong Kong International Races: Get ready for one of the biggest events in the Asian sports calendar and one of the most exciting events in the horseracing world as some the world’s leading jockeys prepare to go neck and neck on the Sha Tin Race Course in the hopes of claiming one of the prize purses worth millions of Hong Kong dollars. This action-packed day will include four International Group One races, including the Hong Kong Cup (2000m), the Hong Kong Mile (1600m), the Hong Kong Vase (2400m) and the Hong Kong Sprint (1200m). Whether you are a horse racing fan or not, the atmosphere is guaranteed to be electric. February 18 to March 23 – Hong Kong Arts Festival: After 42 years, the Hong Kong Arts Festival is still going strong and holding fort as one of Asia’s most comprehensive cultural events with programmes for all

their wishes and defeating the demons that plague their lives. Believers also ask for forgiveness and pray for blessings. Thaipusam falls on January 17th, and on that morning in Kuala Lumpur, millions of devotees and thousands of tourists will make the eight kilometre trek from the Sri Mahamariamman Temple in the heart of the city to the Batu Caves. Many will dress in bright orange and yellow clothing and carry offerings including flowers and containers of milk. Oddly enough, some of these milk containers are connected to the devotees’ bodies by hooks. Others will pierce their skin with skewers and tridents . . . the trek culminates in a climb up 272 steps to the cave, where the pilgrims pour the milk over an enormous golden statue of Murugan and leave their offerings at his feet.

types of art aficionados. Every year the festival welcomes some of the world’s top talents, including Grammynominated musicians, celebrated dancers, cutting edge filmmakers and more. The festival aims to showcase the diversity and energy of Hong Kong with its ability to embrace polar opposites and retain and represent cultural traditions while still looking forward to the future. Prepare to be inspired as over 1,600 artists descend on Hong Kong with nearly 140 performances, many of which are free. In addition, there will be nearly 100 Festival Plus programmes that will engage artists and audiences, including exhibitions, demonstrations, film screenings, workshops and meet-the-artist sessions. IF YOU’RE IN THE NETHERLANDS . . . December 6 to January 19 – Amsterdam Lights Festival: These may be the darkest months of the year, but Amsterdam will be awash in bright lights of all colours and forms at the second edition of the Amsterdam Light Festival. Visit the historic centre of the city to see more than 30 unique light sculptures, installations and projections by local and international artists. The Illuminade walking tour takes you past projections on historic buildings, installations on the streets and in public parks and interactive exhibits for all ages. To see the brilliant spectacle from a different angle, join one of the Water Colour boat tours to see exhibits of artworks along Amsterdam’s canals and the Amstel River. There will also be fun events at museums, theatres, restaurants and shops for the duration of the festival, as well as nightly concerts.

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stephanie mee on wildlife conservation and disease prevention. yes.

Bali Rainbow Community Startling new statistics put the number of HIV/AIDS cases on Bali close to 10,000, with approximately 100 new cases surfacing each month. Although the disease is on the rise in high risk groups, the number of poor, rural housewives and pregnant women who have contracted the disease in recent years is also rising dramatically. According to Ketut Suarjaya, head of the Bali Health Agency, limited knowledge and understanding of the disease is part of the cause for this rapid increase in cases. In addition, many people refuse to be tested due to cost, shame, confidentiality and inconvenience. This is where Bali Rainbow Community (BRC) steps in. Bali Rainbow Community is a locally based non-profit association that raises awareness and funding for HIV/ AIDS in Bali. Its mission is to prevent people from dying of HIV/AIDS unnecessarily due to fear, social stigma, lack of education and ignorance. Together with the Gaya Dewata Foundation, Bali Medika and Bali Peduli, BRC works to educate people from all walks of life about HIV/AIDS, the dangers of unprotected sex and the importance of getting tested. BRC’s newest programme offers financial support for HIV-positive members of the community who are in need of urgent assistance. This includes people who require hospitalisation for complications from HIV/AIDS, those who have recently become unemployed as a result of their newly diagnosed HIV status and are in need of funds for immediate living expenses, and those who require medicines and drugs for HIV/AIDS related illnesses that are not covered by government allotments. In addition, BRC allots a portion of donations to community-based groups or individuals who contribute to AIDS awareness, education and prevention. You can help by donating via the website or attending one of its fundraising events. www.balirainbowcommunity.org Jodie O'Shea Orphanage In the aftermath of the 2002 Bali bombing, many people wanted to contribute in some way to help create a brighter future for people on the island who had very little. Together, this group of compassionate and determined people pooled their resources to build an orphanage that would improve the lives of children here in Bali. Named after Jodie O’Shea, who died in the Bali bombing, the centre opened in 2005 and has been caring for and nurturing young people from around Indonesia ever since. 42

Today nearly 70 children ranging from the ages of two to 18 live there. The Jodie O’Shea Orphanage was purpose-built to provide a healthy, safe and secure living space for children of all ages. The facilities include spacious and airy separate boys and girls bedrooms with bunk beds and storage cupboards, a fully equipped kitchen and dining room, a study room with a computer and a large yard with an organic vegetable garden, and a play area for the children. In addition, the orphanage has implemented a recycling initiative for the rubbish and waste from the garden with help from the Sunrise School and Eco-Bali. www.careforkidsbali.com Bali WISE by Role Bali WISE was created with the vision of empowering women in Indonesia to break the cycle of poverty that so often repeats itself in families from economically disadvantaged backgrounds. To do this, Bali WISE offers women from schools, orphanages and banjars around Bali free education in literacy, English language, basic work and life skills, health, personal development and vocational training. These programmes are free for women in need of training and education, and designed to meet the unique needs of each student. Bali WISE also offers access to ongoing employment support so that students receive the help they need to secure jobs with good working conditions and opportunities for growth. Students who enrol at Bali WISE can choose from a number of structured study programmes offered during four terms throughout the year. The Social Business Training program teaches students how to run their own business with training in budgeting, accounting, stocktaking, ordering, scheduling, marketing and sales. The Training and Employment for the Tourism Sector programme includes six months of classes focusing on the tourism and hospitality industry. This course includes invaluable training in English language skills, workplace rights and expectations, communication and personal finance. New to Bali WISE is also the Weaving Futures programme that aims to promote and preserve Bali’s cultural heritage by teaching women traditional natural dye and weaving techniques. There are many ways that you can support Bali WISE to help disadvantaged women who might not have access to education and employment otherwise. Bali WISE welcomes contributions from volunteers with relevant

skills to share, as well as partnerships with businesses that aim to support local women and girls’ education through its Corporate Social Responsibility programmes. You can also purchase Bali WISE products, including hand-woven, natural dye textiles, and recycled rice sack shopping bags at select locations around the island. www.baliwise.org JICA Mangrove Project When it comes to mangrove swamps, the saying “you don’t know what you’ve got ‘til it’s gone” comes to mind. This was especially true in Bali about 20 years ago when local people could rent patches of the mangrove environment in south Bali for fishing. While this may have created income for many, the result was that huge swathes of the swamp were cleared to make room for fish and prawn farms. By the early 1990s, it was clear that the loss of mangroves was having a devastating effect on the shorelines between Kuta and Sanur. This prompted the Ministry of Forestry to contact the Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA), and in 1993 a joint project began to create a sustainable model of mangrove management in Bali. Mangroves are unique environments made up of trees that are extremely beneficial for coastal ecosystems. These trees can withstand high levels of salinity and grow roots deep into the mud, which protects the coastline from being washed away by storms and tides. The trees also filter out impurities in the water and provide the ideal environment for marine life like oysters, prawns, fish, crabs and mud lobsters, as well as lizards, snakes and birds. Moreover, some of the trees produce fruit that can be used in traditional medicines. When JICA began working with the Ministry of Forestry in Bali in 1993, its first plan of action was to create a 250-hectare protected mangrove plantation with a nursery that would support all seven indigenous species of mangrove trees in Bali, as well as several experimental species. It also produced guidebooks on planting mangroves in Indonesia and began training forestry workers in sustainable mangrove management systems. Today the mangrove project covers more than 12,000 hectares and is an exceptional model of successful mangrove preservation and sustainable mangrove management for Indonesia and the Asia-Pacific region. www.mangrovecentre.or.id

Experience Barbacoa's

modern South American

restaurant's wood fire grill,

extensive tequila list, margaritas

and hand selected wines,

while overlooking the beauty

of kerobokans rice fields.

JL. Petitenget 14

Denpasar, Bali

Indonesia

+62 361 739233

SUNSET AT WOOBAR 5 PM - LATE

JOIN OUR SUNSET SESSION WITH CHILLED ECLECTIC BEATS AS THE SUN FADES AND THE VIBRANT NIGHT LIFE ON THE ISLAND STARTS TO UNRAVEL. INDULGE ON COMPLIMENTARY PASS AROUNDS AND OUR TWO FOR ONE SIGNATURE COCKTAILS FROM MONDAY - THURSDAY 5 PM UNTIL 6 PM!

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SUKI HANDCRAFTED SUNGLASSES FROM BAMBOO OR SUSTAINABLY SOURCED WOOD FROM 999,000IDR www.suki.co.id

deus x rain sunglasses idr 2.730.000

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deus x land 'tiger dog' idr 120.000.000

deus x santalum idr 1.250.000 deus leather gloves idr 1.100.000

deus bandanas navy idr 225.000

MONSIEUR SPOON Bali is becoming so cosmopolitan that having one of the world’s best bakeries at your doorstep is par for the course. After two successful operations on Umalas 2, Kerobokan, and Jalan Batu Bolong, Canggu, Seminyak now has its own patisserie – Monsieur Spoon – on Jl. Kayu Cendana 2B (near to Grocer & Grind), and on the lucky list next is Ubud. According to owner Rafi Papazian what makes a great bakery is good ingredients and artistry, and Bali is able to supply both in ample quantities to keep us all in the dough. Croissants and breads are pressies to bring to dinner parties or to nosh on at home. Simply magnifique! Tel: 087760307054 www.monsieurspoon.com

O STORE OBEROI After its first flagship opening in Kuta Square two years ago; Oakley is now launching its second store in Bali’s fashion district. O Store Oberoi has opened with a slick, fresh new interior concept developed by the Oakley USA headquarters featuring trendy open eyewear displays and home to their premium sunglasses, apparel, footwear and accessory ranges. Oakley is known for its sports performance equipment, and besides being fashionable it’s also durable and performance orientated . . . just ask any ski bunny. Tel: 737658 Yak Map. N.9 www.oakleyindonesia.com

BOUTIQUE HOTELS AND VILLA SOLUTIONS Boutique Hotels and Villa Solutions is just that is a one-stop solution to all of your hotel, restaurant and villa needs. Furniture, lighting systems, home linen, glass and tableware, mural art, candles, amentities and spa products, sold from their Bali-based factories, can be yours at direct-sales prices. It’s a unique concept showroom offering the highest quality home and commercial furnishings at prices to fit any budget. While you're there, ask for a complimentary espresso to get you pumped for purchasing. They will even do presentations of their lines in the comfort of your own villa or hotel. Tel: 8735188 Yak Map. V.5 www.theboutiquebali.com

SMOOTH SAILING THE LAYAR Layar means "sails" in Indonesian and fittingly describes the most distinctive feature of this truly unique resort – the high-pitched roofs which extend almost to the ground. The open living area is connected through the swimming pool to a generous garden. Space is indeed a luxury and there is no shortage of it here. Each villa has a different design and there are one-, two-, three- and four-bedroom villas available with a private in-villa-spa. Personalised spa service at the Layer means that you can have indulgent therapies in villa, including holisitic therapies such as Cranio Sacral, Combined Enegy Healing, Watsu Water Therapy, personalised cleansing programmes and private yoga and fitness. All of this pampering is minutes from the centre of the action of Seminyak, providing the best of both worlds for your stay on Bali. Tel: 733262 Yak Map. R.6 www.thelayar.com

TAPAS AT THE BALE Tapa is Bali’s exciting new global bistro, offering tempting cocktails, chilled-out tunes and delicious tapas-style dishes from around the world. The tapas system at Tapa is very flexible. Guests can chose small portions of different dishes, each the size of a small restaurant starter. Tapa will also offer a range of signature cocktails, each designed specifically for the venue, and it will soon start hosting visiting DJs and acoustic performers to add to the chilled-out global ambience. Tapa is a casual-dress venue and open from Tuesday to Sunday from 5pm to midnight. As usual anything overseen by hotel pro, Jose, it’s likely to get real busy real fast. Tel: 775111 www.thebale.com 50

ANDIAMO Uma Cucina Adorable Uma Ubud has a new Italian restaurant, Uma Cucina, for louche lunches and early evening nosh on the open-air terrace. Informal and fun, the design has been overseen by well-known architect Cheong Yew Kuan who also created the Como Shambhala Estate. A large communal dining table sits at the heart of the space and reflects the homely cucina – meaning “kitchen” – spirit. Italian inspired dishes overseen by Chef Lazzaroni follow Como’s adherence to locally sourced seasonal veg, seafood and slow cooked meats. Tel: 972 448

Bud Map. B.4

www.comohotels.com

MAYA UBUD RESORT AND SPA Known for it’s stunning clifftop setting, Maya Ubud Resort and Spa is offering a lavish authentic, asian-rich cuisine, featuring the finest array of food. Tuna sashimi sambal match with lime-chili ice is a new dish that takes full advantage of Asian spices and seasonal produce. Fresh sashimi-grade tuna slices are marinated in a delicious and authentic Balinese salsa of lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf and shallot, served with a lime-chilli granite. Asian food lovers will love this marriage of Japanese and Balinese flavours. With a menu that consists of Indonesian, Thai, Indian, and Japanese cuisine, including a teppanyaki grill, executive Chef Katherine Townsend lets the flavors speak for themselves at Maya. Tel: 0361-977888 Bud Map. K17 www.mayaubud.com

BALQUISSE LIVING Famed Morrocan Bali-based interior designer Zhora Boukhari has taken her treasure trove of homewares, furnishings, fab fabrics and curios and antiques under one huge 1300 metre roof to make shopping for your villa a one-stop-shop. Known for her discerning and opulent eye, Boukhari ‘s designs are always cozy, sometimes industrial, sometimes boudoir and very sensual. Her collection includes Hishem Furntiure which is both outdoor synthetic rattan, and vintage wooden furniture that includes classic French designs. Stunning soft furnishings are from the ZB Design collection, and the Shahinaz Collection offers a large array of fabrics in linens, velvets, silks and cottons … plain or with motifs all handpicked by Boukhari. Tel: 8476833/737073 Yak Map. W.7 www.balquisseliving.com

SMUGGLERS COVE The newest addition to the Scallywags Group of accommodation in the Gilis is Smugglers Cove on Gili Air – just a two-minute walk to the harbour. Twelve private air conditioned double rooms, with balconies, maxi bars, and shared pool, are a 10-minutes walk from the best swimming and relaxing beach on the island. Scallywags Smugglers Hideaway is situated in a great place to chill out. Check out the views and spend the day. Tel: 62370 6145301 (Scallywag)/0370-620201 (Smugglers) www.scalleywagsresort.com LIVE LIFE FOR L HOTEL L Hotel and Resorts is a 30-room boutique property that has become the meeting spot for international and local designers and trendy urbanites and fashionistas from around the globe. The hotel’s mantra of “Live Life” is personified at their rooftop bar, Luna, where you can enjoy gourmet European canapés and light bites of wonderful tandoor from their own oven made by Mama L, and produced in the open kitchen. People are in the know gravitate here where the house DJ plays music that lets the conversation flow without the doof-doof of joints down the road. Overlooking rice paddies and a sea views, this breezy, beautiful rooftop is one of the best places to catch a sunset in Bali. Luna Roof Bar's consulting mixologist, Dr. Cocktail, makes amazing concoctions with all natural ingredients and Luna also features three unique private dining areas, each with its own identity and style: Kitano (Japanese Teppanyaki), Labu, which seats 12 in a room highlighted by decorative Balinese ornaments, and 1908, an uber-chic room that intimately seats 6-8 people. Tel: 8947898 Yak Map. Q.3 www.thelhotels.com 52

old Man's Sean Cosgrove of Petitenget fame (and formerly Cornerstore), has opened up a super groovy barefoot beach bar called Old Man's that looks out on the most popular long board breaks in Batu Bolong beach, Canggu. Perfect for super relaxed brekky, lunch and dinners, often with live music and impromptu jam sessions, Old Man's is kid friendly with plenty of room to roam. Old Man's encapsulates what Bali’s all about . . . chillin! Tel: 8469158, 8469159

LAST LAUGH Kerry Ball, who ran Singapore’s fabulous Comedy Clubs, now has his acts in Bali with The Last Laugh and you can be assured of howling into the night with ace comedians coming in from all over the globe, including Clint Paddinson, who has preformed in 12 different countries, and Chris Franklin, who is famous for his #1 Double Platinum hit song Bloke. December dates are: 19th Ryoshi House of Jazz, Seminyak, 20th Echo Beach House, Canggu, 21st Y Sports Bar, Legian. Tel: 0813 3832 25637 www.lastlaughbali.com CHOCOLATE CAFE Chocolate Café at Kupu Kupu Barong has introduced a classic all-you-can-eat buffet-style brunch on Sunday mornings at their charming Jimbaran venue. The simply lavish buffet includes home-baked pastries, fresh sushi, decadent cheese platters and lots of lovely salads. Mains range from Indian currys with fresh prawns plucked from the Indian Ocean and lots of lively pastas. Delicious desserts are on offer as well but the best deal is the freeflow wine during your feast at a very reasonable Rp 195k nett. It’s a steal and a superb way to spend a Sunday with loved ones. Reservations recommended. Tel: 703342 Bud Map. A.3 www.kupuresorts.com

AMO express This popular primper has moved lock, stock and two smoking barrels out of Petitenget and into the heart of Seminyak at Basangkasa No. 9. Known for their reasonable price points and the pedigree of a former model as its owner, Amo has an international clientele that relishes the myriad hair and beauty treatments. Clients pushed for time can literally put their feet up in the multiple treatment chairs where you can have a pedicure, cream bath, and head and shoulder massage all at once. Tel: 275 3337 (Amo Spa)/737267 (Amo Express) www.amospa.com

POD chocolate Looking for a unique experience and a great day out? Head up to Pod and learn how to make chocolate as you follow the journey of the cocoa pod through the ultimate makeover into delicious Pod Chocolate. The tour begins with the cocoa tree, takes you through our boutique factory and ends with you getting hands on as you make your own chocolate to take home. Of course there’s lots of tasting along the way, a great café to enjoy a tasty lunch, and you can cool off with our amazing homemade ice cream. And best of all kids are FREE in December (*one kid free per paying adult). Get into the Christmas spirit and check out this glorious destination for a fabulous day out. Tel: 239440 www.podchocolate.com

grand style The Grand Nikko is a new face that represents an upscale brand, and out of 51 hotels and resorts around the world (under Hotel JALCity brand and Nikko Hotels), Nikko Bali Resort and Spa has been officially chosen to be crowned Grand Nikko Bali. Since it’s original opening in 1996, the hotel has spent millions of dollars on upgrades including, Wiwaha, a cliff-top glass wedding venue, and to refurbish all rooms and restaurants including its award-winning beach front restaurant The Shore Restaurant and Bar. Just last year a new ballroom was added that can accommodate up to 760 people with floor-to-ceiling glass walls with dramatic views over the Indian Ocian, which more than justifies its reclassification as a Grand Nikko. Tel: 773377 www.grandnikkobali.com

NOSH LOCALLY AND LAVISHLY Locavore refers to a preference towards locally-sourced produce rather than imported food. Now the movement has reached the shores of Bali. Serving modern contemporary European cuisine with almost all local seasonal ingredients ensures you have the best of Indonesia’s bounty served up by chef Eeike Plasmeije of Alila fame. The ingredient-driven menu celebrates the farmers, fisherman and artisans of the archipelago. Just a five-minute minute walk from Taksu in Ubud, you are likely to see other chefs from around the island who flock to Locavore for inspiration. Of course, Balinese have always been locavore, and Bali’s epicurean scene is waking up to what’s been sitting on their doorstep. Tel: 977733 ROCK THE FROCKK Frockk is a brand new label to Bali that represents beautiful and wearable fashion designed to make women feel fabulous, confident, and feminine. Natural linens, cottons, and silks in flattering styles to suit gorgeous feminine shapes. What makes this shop stand apart is the totally relaxed feel of the clothes that suit Bali’s call to chic but comfortable fashion both at the beach and out on the tiles. Just damn glam. Tel: 4732510

Waka GanGga Located in one of Bali’s most dramatic landscapes, surrounded by UNESCO-protected rice fields, majestic mountains and a dramatic coastline, Waka Gangga re-opens in December, offering guests an unrivalled experience. Journeying to the heart of Bali, the experience begins just minutes after leaving Seminyak. Busy roads give way to perfectly preserved villages and arrive finally at one of Bali’s most pristine and dramatic beaches, Yeh Gangga in Tabanan. Drawing on tradition, this unique resort has been re-created using primitive and sacred influences which combine to create a contemporary resort that is spacious, luxurious and unique. Waka is one of the pioneers of eco-tourism, creating unforgettable resort experiences in unspoiled locations. This Balinese-owned company, guided by exOberoi Director, Kamal Kaul, seeks out unique, unspoiled locations to create resorts that are memorable, beautiful and speak to the heart of Bali. Tel: 484085 www.wakahotelsandresorts.com

WHAT’S YOUR ALIBI? Alibi at U Paasha hotel has a simple concept – a place where friends can meet in an atmosphere of complete relaxation and just enjoy the laidback vibe with a party slant. The comfortable furniture and inviting décor has been designed with the intent to cosset patrons whose idea of a perfect night out is one of good company, enticing food, and mellow sounds. The DJ spins tracks from the '80s and '90s. Every day there is a happy hour until 8pm (excluding wines and champagne) which should get you primed for figuring out why you came in the first place. Get your alibi in order and check it out. Tel: 8465977 Yak Map. Q.8 www.uhotelsresorts.com

PURE CHARM Hairdresser to the stars and often in charge of taming our tresses, ever popular Rob Peetoom has introduced a new line called Pure at his Rob Peetoom salon. A.Q. Lake’s new range of skin and body care is all about potency and performance. “Pure simplifies the complex world of skin care”, according to Adria Lake, owner and founder. The key to Pure’s performance is the powerful, synergistic action between the range’s Pure Basics and Superchared Serums. Both contain high concentrations of supercharged bio-active ingredients to target specific skin concerns. Flawless! Tel: 738363 Yak Map. U.3 www.robpeetoom.com

SING IN THE NEW YEAR The Mulia is gathering a good reputation for bringing in class acts, and this New Year’s Eve is no exception. Jermain Paul will perform at The Grand Ballroom on New Year’s Eve. The acclaimed singer and season two winner of NBC’s The Voice will deliver a captivating performance to celebrate the New Year with his signature soulful voice. Throughout the festive season at the Mulia Christmas Carols and other entertainment is on offer. Plan your holiday and enjoy special offers at The Mulia, Mulia Resort, or Mulia Villas. With prime beachfront location you are guaranteed to have a very merry Christmas and a rocking New Year. Tel: 3017777 www.themulia.com

BATIK AT JENGGALA Jenggala ceramics has been providing tableware and decorative accents to luxury resorts, hotels, restaurants and homes from around the world. From its initial beginnings as a small cottage industry to a 21st century company, Jenggala has never lost its lust for new creations, while honouring timeless traditions of Balinese and Javanese cultures. In tune with its quest for innovation Jenggala now introduces a Carved Batik Table Collection. Craftsmen use small knives and chisels to delicately engrave the detailed batik pattern. Consisting of individual bowls, plates and platters this tableware collection is a uniquely elegant way to bring the rich Indonesian culture to your home. Tel: 703311 www.jenggala.com

DRAGOON Bling, mega-mansions and pimped out rides are cool but those that really want to party know that a yacht can't be beaten. Now moored in Gili Trawagan, Dragoon, the super yacht is hosting super sunset cruises on the tropical blue crystal waters of Lombok between Sengigi and the Gilis. With room for 150 guests, the smart set are picked up at Villa Ombak and taken on a day cruise with welcome cocktails, colourful snorkeling, and a lounge bar area surrounding the Jacuzzi pool for sunset celebrations. What better way to enjoy the beauty of the coral reef on board one of the coolest party yachts around. Tel: 082111182926

www.dragoon130.com

SMOQUEE LOUNGE AND SKY BAR New glam resort Le Merdian Jimbaran unveils its new venue for urbanites on the island. Smoquee Lounge and Sky Bar features two separate spaces for sophisticated crowds to chill out over sunset at Jimbaran Bay or revel in stylish rhythm. An idyllic open-air bar with laidback tunes and exquisite selections of signature concocted drinks, crafted by one of the world's most distinguished mixoloigsits, Joseph Baroski. Lay back on the cozy loungers soaking in the sea breeze at sunset or hit the rooftop for a dazzling view of Jimbaran Bay. Smoquee lounge sits next to the famous seafood beachfront restaurants of Jimbaran thus the establishment's name . . . it’s smokin’ hot. www.lemeridien.com

KAKILIMA AT TUGU Brought to you by the same class act that brings you Tugu Hotel Group – Indonesia’s living museums – Kakilima is a new restaurant at their hotel in Canggu. The restaurant sits on top of a hill overlooking a verdant garden that slopes down to the sparkling sea. This is a warung with a million dollar view to enjoy any time of day. The atmosphere is as free and easy and kids can roam unattended on the lawn while you relax and enjoy yourself. The Mediterranean influenced menu includes wonderful barbeque, and every weekend is gypsy night with a big bonfire under the stars with torches and lanterns, acoustic music, a large barbeque pit, and big pitchers of Sangria to share with your family and friends. A truly lovey atmosphere as only Tugu can deliver. Tel: 4731701

Yak Map. O.1

www.tuguhotels.com

HEAVENLY HOSTS Two of Bali’s true culinary geniuses have come together to offer an outstanding unique culinary and cultural adventure. Diana Von Cranach – a raw food proponent and the owner of the Puri Ganesha Villas in Pemuteran, north-west Bali – and Penelope Williams, owner of the spectacular Bali Asli Restaurant in Amalpura in the foothills of Bail’s highest volcano Mount Agung, have joined forces to offer a once in a lifetime experience. These two culinary alchemists who live and work in the most unspoiled parts of northwest and east Bali are offering an eight-day cooking school and cultural adventure that will teach the lucky few how to recreate the magic of Balinese and Indonesian cuisine at home, and experience first-hand some of the most beautiful parts of Bali. Classes are scheduled for eight day periods throughout 2014. Tel: 0812 393 2984

www.puriganesha.com

www.baliasli.com.au

MAHA BAR & RESTAURANT This newest edition to the hustle and bustle of Monkey Forest road is fast becoming a hotspot for those who enjoy a cold beer and a spot of people watching. Bright and breezy decor with super comfy couches, fast wifi by Ubud standards and a cool outside garden area with friendly bunnies hopping around (which is turning into a popular attraction in its own right). Cinammon banana smoothies, great breakfasts, yummy lunches and dinners are all on the menu with an international and local selection, or just pop in for a coffee and watch the world go by. Tel: 973196

Showroom now open

For enquiries, please contact our sales office at salesdirector@ayanaresidences.com|HP +62 821 476 40888 | T +62 361 702 120

PERFECT PITCH/ BALLS TO THE WALLS Resplendent Red Drum African Caribbean Bar and Restaurant adds some punch to Bali’s epicurean scene with its first African and Caribbean themed restaurant. Vibrant and visually stimulating in bright hues of pink and red and zebra print indoors housed in a large blue building the décor is eclectic and fun. Exotic flavours are nicely paired with reasonably priced drinks which are a refreshing change in themselves! African bands and DJs are listed on its weekly agenda with live music with Friday and on Friday and Sunday nights. Watch out for favourite performers such as Bali-based Afronesia, a world music band presenting cool fusions of Afro-jazz, salsa, reggae and bossanova. An eclectic boutique is also worth a gander for unusual finds by Bali based designers with a worldly edge. Tel: 735219 www.reddrum-bali.com

Toning not training If it's toning not training you and your body are after then look no further than a mere 20-minutes a week at the the new MOXX spa, on Jl. Kunti (opposite Cabe Rawit). Twenty minutes of electro-fitness is equal to about four hours in the gym. Forget the treadmill, the rowing machines, lunges and crunches, even the sports gear! Suit up, wire up and with a series of 10 simple exercises the electro-fitness machine will do all the rest. Miha Bodytec is the fastest growing fitness technology in the world and used by the likes of Nadal, Federer, and many F1 drivers. Try it, it's a very affordable buzz. Tel: 738167 Yak map. W.10 www.moxx.com

top of the town Like bees to honey the in-crowd is flocking to this mother-lode of an entertainment venue where there is literally something for everyone. The latest excitement at one of our favourite day and nightspots is one of New York’s top Chefs, Adriano Ricco coming to Bali to oversee the American bistro cuisine that will be served in the café, restaurant and lounge club. The rooftop is now complete with cabanas ocean views and panoramic views of the island. For breakfast and lunch try Squeeze the fresh juice bar, and if your liquids are more on the vine side there is an excellent wine list and cocktails galore. As Mark Baker, one of the brains behind the brawn says, “Townhouse is about the excitement of New York meets the magic of Bali.” Tel: 0361 8850577 Yak Map. P.8 www.thetownhousebali.com BATHE A bijoux little adorable store selling all things to do with “rub a dub dub fun in the tub” and a one-stop shop for toiletries, suntan lotions, natural insect repellant, and all sorts of potions for scrubbing and zingy wake-me-ups. Affordable and delightfully natural products for the bath are all parabin and paraffin free, with divine body butters that undo beach damage and make you skin silky smooth and ready to groove. Also available are custom made candles, lovely linen Turkish bath towels, and everything you need to stock your bathrooms in style. Tel: 4737580 Yak map. O.5 www.bathestore.com

ART BARN IS NOW THE STRAW HUT Like its predecessor, The Art Barn, the newly opened and renovated Straw Hut focuses on fresh and healthy primarily organic food that is cooked simply so that the true flavour of the ingredients comes through. Still one of the eclectic party scenes on the weekend promoting and gathering local and international artists of all varieties check out their live music, and the acoustic session on Wednesdays. And on Fridays, they host the Warm Up Sesh that draws a great crowd with rotating local/International bands and DJs. On Saturdays the Tango Bali Club hosts a Tango Nuevo night from 7.30pm-10pm where three instructors are there to help you get your groove on and it’s all for free. The Straw Hut is not just a cafe but also a creative place for movies, art, and music. There is a big terrace, garden and a lotus pond with seating area and it’s tranquil – until the crowds arrive. Tel: 736750 Yak map. P.9 www.villakresna.com

POSITIVE NEGATIVE This little gem of an art gallery is new to the scene and we welcome it to the hood. Located within walking distance from Kendra Gallery, Positive Negative is sending positive vibes to the art scene with hits unusual mix of both photographic and fine art exhibitions. What’s up in December is international artist Wayan Wirawan with his first solo exhibition entitled “Surviving the Dry” showcasing stunning originals inspired by personal challenges and social issues and Wirawan’s interaction with the environment. His adoring art fans both here and abroad are chomping at the bit to be the first to get one of his original works. Wirawan paints spiritual pieces about “the fleeting nature of life through t sensitive landscapes”. Indonesia is the buzz word on the contemporary art scene and this is your chance to get in and own some original works before the whole world finds out about the amazing talent of contemporary Indonesian artisans. Tel: 7142838 COVETED COLLECTION AT BIASA Bali based Biasa never fails to impress and their latest fall collection can be seen at all three Bali shops in Sanur, Seminyak and Ubud making sure that the fashion forward men and women of Bali have no reason to be anything but chic. This season Biasa showcases the art of playful sophistication. Bold, adventurous stripes and layered, multidimensional checks inspire the contemporary style. Expect their effortlessly elegant classics that are draped, ruched and pleated in vibrant and deep colour combinations. At Biasa it’s all about the cut of the fine silks, cottons, linens and muslin that create unique unrestrained silhouettes both for men and women. An exciting juxtaposition of strong yet subtle, fun yet elegant and comfortable yet sophisticated. Biasa's clothing fits anywhere in the world where understated elegance is appreciated. Tel: 730308, 8878002, 270935 www.biasabali.com

CULINAIRE AFFAIR The St. Regis Bali Resort and The Laguna Resort & Spa welcome French chef Frank Ruidavet as new Culinary Director once again putting Bali on the map for gourmands throughout the globe. With an impressive culinary career that spans 35 years, Ruidavet honed his skills and knowledge amongst the most prestigious Michelin-starred restaurants inFrance, New York City, London, Kuala Lumpur, the Maldives, Singapore and most recently, Four Seasons Hotel Amman in Jordan. We say welcome Chef Ruidavet and our mouths are already watering as we anticipate what's in store for us on our next visit to St. Regis (noting of course that we will have handy Harold Wiesmann's poetic wine pairings to complete our culinary concerto). Tel: 771327 www.starwoodhotels.com SHOWTIME AT CUCA Set in Jimbaran Bay in a stunning coconut grove, Cuca is helmed by Chef Kevin Cherkas who has worked with so many Michelin stars you would be forgiven for thinking he hails from Hollywood instead of Canada. His co-star and leading lady is Spanish wife Virginia, whose mom called her Cuca (or darling) when she was growing up. While Kevin is often backstage, Virginia can be seen milling about the audience checking that everyone has everything they need. An open theatre kitchen has raised wooden seating with an eightmetre teak counter to watch chef’s spectacular performance. There is also garden seating amongst the palms where a lovely Pink Lime can be enjoyed with fresh lime juice, honey and gin topped with soda meringue. Tel: 708066 Bud Map. B.4 www.cucaflavor.com

Neo Angulo, Cubular and beyond Warisan Furniture wows us all again with their new outdoor collection. Created for architects and interior designers who are looking for new ideas, quality, aesthetic beauty and functionality in order to meet the tastes of the rich famous and very demanding global clientele. The new collection boasts a complete set of furniture consisting of outdoor lounge furniture, dining tables and chairs, bar stools, lounge chairs, bar stools,sofas, coffee tables, pool loungers, rocking and swing lounge chairs, and an even unique daybed, each with its own unique design characteristics. The twelve new lines of luxury outdoor furniture (with names like Cubular, Bella, Neo Angulo and even a Sophie!) are ideal for both commercial and residential environments, and combine a contemporary design with an amazing level of comfort. As always crafted to the Warisan level of expertise! Tel: 730048 Yak Map. U.4 www.warisan.com 62

ARRIBA AMIGOS Alimenta El Alma . . . Feed the Soul at Seminyak's fave rave restaurant La Finca. Authentic, rustic Ibizan/Spanish Mediterranean fare is the order of the day (and night) and everything here is home made and comes with genuine service that can only be inspired by tradition and passion for home cooking. Indoor and outdoor seating affords you a place where you can just relax and get lost in another world of gracious living, wonderful traditions and seriously great flavours and aromas of good old fashioned Spanish cuisine (check out their hot stone steaks for a real treat). From one paradise to another, La Finca is brining a taste of the Ibiza lifestyle to Bali. Excellent wines and fab cocktails at reasonable prices round off the La Finca experience. Tel: 2105080 Yak Map. K.2 www.lafincabali.com

interview

Flip flop kings Havaianas has teamed up with Bondi beach Aquabumps shooter Eugene Tan to bring us a limited edition run of summertime sandals...

Uge, thanks for taking the time, tell us a bit about your background, where you grew up . . . I’m from WA originally (Perth). I love to surf and take photos. I am the founder and owner of Aquabumps - a beach life blog and gallery in Bondi Beach. I’m a father to two boys and husband to a wifey. Were you always drawn to the ocean? Yeah, I’ve always loved the beach – so I think when you have that early affinity with something like the ocean it sticks for life. At what age did you take up surfing and what were your favourite surf spots when you were young? I started surfing when I was 12 and that was it for me, I loved everything about it. As kids growing up in Perth we would always head down to the beaches around Margaret River my fave is Indginup carpark. To you, what is surf culture all about? It’s a lifestyle and attracts likeminded people who love the beach. What did you do before you became a full-time surf photographer? I was a creative director at a design firm. What led to your decision to devote all your time to photography? I started Aquabumps as a blog – well really just sending around some pictures to my mates of the beach and surf that morning. People started asking to buy the images and I thought it was a bit of a hassle, until I realised, “hey there’s a business in this”, and decided to leave my job and dedicate my energy into shooting full time.

We understand that you’ve probably shot more sunrise scenes at Bondi Beach – tell us what is so magic about the place . . . Fifteen years of shooting sunrise at Bondi and I never get sick of it. Its magic at all times of year – the conditions are different every day. This morning’s sunrise was one of the best I’ve ever seen. Summer there is so much energy early in the morning and winter I can sometimes be the only person on the beach, and I love the desolation of Australia’s most famous beach in the middle of a city empty. Why “Aquabumps”? I wanted a unique name for the brand and a bump in the ocean is essentially a wave – so Aquabumps was born. What is your most memorable surf shoot? Shooting Pipeline, North Shore Hawaii with the best surfers in the world, Slater, Job, John John – I never get sick of that. Have you shot on or around Bali and, if so, what do you think of the island and its waves? Many times, we go to Bali at least once a year – I love Bali. My favourite place to shoot and surf is Keramas. I also love the blue water of Uluwatu and the waves are great up that end too. You have been described as Australia’s most successful surf photographer – are there others you admire? Richard Misarach, Jon Frank, Dustin Humpheries, Massimo Vitali, and Christian Fletcher. What brings most joy to your life? My children and my wife and being in the ocean with them. Do you have a philosophy that guides you? Consistency, passion and do what you love to do.

deep blue uge.

KARMABEACH.COM Karma Beach Bali, Karma Kandara Resort, Ungasan, Bali, 80362, Indonesia T +62 (0) 361 848 2200 E bali@karmabeach.com t @karmabeach f Karma.Beach.Clubs

EXPERIENCE THE BEST BEACH DAYS Beach sushi bar, world class wines and live DJs every weekend

WE CREATE... EXPERIENCES

issues

the plight of indigenous peoples throughout history and to the present day poses serious questions for which mature societies need to find honourable answers. words: Andrew e. hall dayak images: d.hump

look up, my people,  the dawn is breaking,  the world is waking,  to a new bright day,  when none defame us,  nor colour shame us,  nor sneer dismay. now brood no more  on the years behind you,  the hope assigned you  shall the past replace,  when juster justice  grown wise and stronger  points the bone no longer  at a darker race. so long we waited  bound and frustrated,  till hate be hated  and caste deposed;  now light shall guide us,  and all doors open  that long were closed. see plain the promise,  dark freedom-lover!  night’s nearly over,  and though long the climb,  new rights will greet us,  new mateship meet us,  and joy complete us  in our new dream time. oodgeroo noonuccal (kath walker)

The word “indigenous” is used to describe peoples who occupy a geographical area – be it large or small – and who can be regarded as the “first peoples” of a particular region. Indigenous societies often do not have a notion of possession or ownership of the lands they occupy, but rather a form of kinship with it – a spiritual connection, and a profound consciousness of the symbiosis that exists between the environment and its human population. The trouble with being an indigenous people is that throughout history other people – less conscious (and often with little conscience) – want what indigenous peoples “have”. And will deploy any means at their disposal to “get” it – that is, to own something hitherto not subject to notions of ownership. While it could be argued that the Inca civilisation might have had a sense of ownership over its territories, given the Incas – using a variety of methods, from conquest to peaceful assimilation – incorporated a large portion, of western South America – into a vast empire. It could also be argued that the fate of these indigenous peoples was ultimately seen to be in the hands of the gods they worshipped – so the ownership issue could plausibly be contested. What is incontestable is that the Inca Empire did not belong to the Spanish conquistadors, led by Francisco Pizarro and his brother, Hernándo, when they sacked the empire in the early 16th century . . . for a staggering amount of gold and silver that basically financed the Spanish empire for centuries into the future. In return the Europeans introduced diseases like smallpox and measles that decimated the indigenous Incan, Mayan and Aztec civilisations to the extent that they pretty much went extinct . . . in addition to using superior technologies to commit murder on a massive scale. The Belgians emulated the rapacious behaviour of the conquistadors in the Congo from 1908 to 1960 . . . a resources grab that didn’t go so well for the Congolese. A modern-day equivalent might be the activities of multi-national

Mentawai Dayaks face the same skullduggery as their indigenous bretheren around the world.

issues

mining companies in places like Papua, Bougainville where toxic chemicals – integral to minerals processing – have been dumped into local rivers and streams without due care and diligence for the indigenous populations’ welfare. While the new, conservative, Australian government obsesses about, and lies to the Australian people about, asylum-seekers who arrive by boat, Australia’s indigenous people must look on in bewilderment. “You mob arrived in boats too,” they might think . . . “and look what you did to us . . . we should have thought about a “no boats” policy a long, long time ago.” Just because Captain Arthur Phillip happened to have a Union Jack flag on board his ship and stuck it in the sand on a beach at Botany Bay, a couple of hundred years of white fellas have lorded it over the Aboriginal peoples . . . who didn’t really see the point in having a flag. In fact, flag planting has been used as an excuse to subjugate indigenous populations the world over. From the beginning of European settlement in Australia a pogrom was initiated against the indigenous peoples of that land – which led to the extinction of the first people of Tasmania. The last of whom – a woman named Truganini – begged the British not to remove her bones from her land . . . of course they did, and put her in an English museum as some kind of curiosity. Only very recently has the Australian legal system recognised the right of Aboriginal peoples to occupy their lands without being kicked off them by pastoralists, graziers, and mining companies. But because of the policies and practices of white Australia since the 18th century, the first peoples still have significantly reduced average life spans, and face a daunting range of social and psychological challenges. It’s a similar story for Native Americans . . . In Indonesia indigenous peoples are being squeezed into smaller and smaller habitats because of the palm oil industry. Vast swathes of forest in Sumatra and Kalimantan continue to be clear-felled for palm oil plantations, which provide habitats for . . . nothing at all but oil palms. Very lucrative for some, and absolutely disastrous for the indigenous peoples who have to find somewhere else to live – which can, and does, lead to friction between native populations who resent the “intrusion” of “others”. There are some, however, who have great empathy for the plight of Indonesia’s indigenous people (orang rimba) – one of whom is educator and activist, Butet Manurung. Her mission is to take the love of learning under the canopies of Indonesia’s forests and jungles so that young indigenous people are better

Who's their champion?

issues

able to make choices . . . and lead lives that march to rhythm of their own aspirations. Anthropology became her calling, mingled with a desire to reach out to this country’s marginalised young people – which she does with prodigious portions of love and, importantly, she says, humour. “Through my work with Indigenous people I have learned that you can laugh even when things are bordering on the disastrous,” Butet says. After completing her tertiary studies Butet joined the WARSI Foundation (The Indonesian Conservation Community) whose mission is to revive community-based conservation of local people – primarily in southern Sumatra – and to influence the spatial management of conservation. The foundation’s motto is: “Conservation for Community Prosperity – not to discard prosperity for conservation”. “The main issue facing these local communities lies in how people view development . . . how outsiders think the communities are supposed to live versus what these people really want in their lives,” Butet says. “There is a lot of encroachment from the outside on indigenous communities – a lot of commercialisation of the forests; and a lot of people from outside who want to try to change the ways indigenous people live. “There is pressure on the jungle people to become ‘normal’, and this is a situation I’m trying to help . . . to turn around. “I think the only way that indigenous people can defend themselves against this encroachment is by way of education so they are in a position to engage in a dialogue.” We can only hope that the first peoples of Indonesia, the Amazon, and other places in the world are able to engage in dialogue with governments and corporations who are mature enough to respect the ways in which these peoples choose to live. Would that governments and corporations not be totally motivated by greed, and learn to understand that there is an intrinsic value in the knowledge possessed by indigenous peoples about how to care for the natural environments in which they have existed for millennia. For more information about Butet and her colleagues’ work with Indonesia’s indigenous people go to www.sokola.org.

Education lies at the heart of forming dialogue to save cultures and traditions.

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PROFILE Salvador Bali meets a young fashion designer going places. photo: spencer hansen.

Tell it like it is. Alexander Blomgren, I’m 18 years old, born in Sweden, moved to Moscow straight away. My mother is from Moscow and dad is from Sweden. I lived in Moscow for 10 years, then moved to Sweden for six years. My parents separated and my mother moved to Bali. A couple of years later I moved here as well. What was your schooling like? Well that’s where I get a bit shy. I dropped out of school the first year in high school, basically I did the normal up to high school in Sweden and that’s pretty much it, and then it’s all experiences in Bali. You’re definitely the youngest designer I’ve come across to date – you’re 18 now and started to design clothes at 17 . . . how did that come about with no formal education in the field? That’s actually a pretty funny story. I moved to Bali two-and-a-half years ago. The first year was kind of rough – nothing but the blues. After a year I was okay and thinking I have to start doing something. So I started working in Oazia SpaVodka, my mother’s place. That worked out for a while, but it really wasn’t my calling and then all of a sudden I started thinking about fashion, and there was the fact that I had nothing to wear and not a single good shop in Bali where I could find some normal clothes to go out in. So I started doing some designs and two months later I had my workshop running and producing my first collection. Of course with your mother’s blessings and back up . . . Yes, of course (laughs). Where did the passion come from that you are obviously projecting? It all came from looking on the Internet and looking at some designers, and then I started drawing. You never drew before, it just came? No, never, it just came.

A natural talent, so it seems. Yeah, it kind of worked in my favour. What’s the name of your company? Alexander Blomgren. Is that strictly men’s wear? No, women’s wear as well and jewellery designs, which will be coming soon. So it’s been two years in the making? No, only about eight months. I did my first collection and jumped back into Oazia Lobster Bar, which was a new venture by my mother, helping out . . . now that it’s finally running I’m back to doing my designs again. I understand the desire to make men’s designs, but women? The women’s side was more from my mother, because she was actually having the same thoughts as me – that she had nothing to wear. She came up with some designs that she liked . . . I started drawing them out and making models. Have you had any fashion shows yet? No, I was planning on doing it on my birthday, which is in November. So I’m pushing my collection to meet that date. How would you describe your collection? What I’m going for is very stylish, slim-fit, moderate, not too many colours, evening wear, dress shirts, formal, suits and trousers. For the ladies, silk dresses, tops, pants and shirts. Being in Bali and at your age, you’re not inclined to do surfer clothes and such? No, that’s not really my part here in Bali. Are you planning to open up shops here? Yes, I’ve started to look around and I have a friend in Amsterdam, so I’m starting to outsource a bit over in Europe. So you’re going international as well, do you have a website? Yes, which will be open with the new collections,

and with on-line shopping. What has been the response so far? Very good actually, a lot of my friends are now picking up my shirts, seeing a lot of nice photos in magainzes like this one. Much of it has been from friends, so I’m getting a lot of good and bad comments on what they would like as well. Do you see this business as your future? I don't know yet if it's my calling. I’m gonna do it until I feel I’ve done it. Life’s lessons – they can go on and on . . . Yes of course. What are some of the obstacles you’ve faced so far? Bali is one of the smallest islands in the world in terms of its expatriate community, so it’s hard getting a new product out here, but also there’s a flipside to it, which is the creative side. Is everything manufactured here? Yes, I have my workshop where I do my shirts and dresses, and now I’m starting to do jeans and T-shirts and trousers in the factory. Do you work with anyone, for quality control etc? No, it’s all done by me. Whenever there's a problem I have to be there, 24/7. I want to see every bit of the sewing, every little stitch, all the details. So designing is the easy part? Yeah, the hard part is doing the production; you have to check every little thing to make it work. Do you have a philosophy of life? That’s easy . . . just to live as you want, and in the end it will work out for you.

alexander: "live as you want."

PROFILE words: danziel carre. photos: vicky tanzil.

from jakarta to new

york, l.a., and then

to bali, 24-year-old

audrey akman is an

up-and-comer in the fashion world.

Audrey, when and how did you first get into fashion? I'd wanted to go to fashion school since I was maybe four or five because I was so inspired by Disney movies . . . especially Cinderella. I remember asking my mom: "When I grow up, I want my job to be making beautiful gowns like that – what kind of profession is that called?" She said: "Fashion design." So ever since I have been obsessed with gowns and wedding dresses, evening gowns and stuff like that. I think they are the most beautiful things I've ever seen. What were you up to in the States? I worked for a bridal and eveningwear company in New York starting from sophomore year at fashion design school. After graduation, I went to L.A. and worked as a costume designer at a cabaret lounge, in a jewellery shop, and for a young start-up womenswear company. I thought it was a great challenge to see if I could handle a small company of my own – working under the owner, following her every step and learning as much as I could. Another good offer came up, but after contemplating for a long time I decided to start my own business in Jakarta because there are more opportunities there. What's the coolest project you worked on in L.A.? The choreographer from the lounge was working on a project with Lady Gaga's choreographer for Nikki Minaj's Grammy Awards 2012. They initially wanted Versace to do all of Nikki's costumes, but because of budget issues they decided to give me the project instead – because I'd done costumes before. Versace ended up designing her red carpet robe, while I designed the costumes for everyone in her performance on stage. I also did Nikki and her dancers’ costumes for the NBA half-time show. How did you start your jewellery business? Arriving back in Jakarta, I wanted to do bridal-wear, but it’s really hard to find pattern makers in Indonesia. During a Christmas vacation on Bali I saw an opportunity to make jewellery because the level of craftsmanship here is amazing – it was an easy transition for me because I was doing intricate headpieces when I made my thesis collection. The company started about six months ago, but we're not selling yet – maybe January. I want to

be really well prepared. I know people will appreciate something that is done whole-heartedly. Any other business ventures on the go? I'm in the process of making a "discovery lounge" – it's a new concept that I am developing. It's a place that emphasises human connection, with a high sense of art and appreciation of life – a place where people can go and meet others, try new food and drinks, view different art installations and jewellery displays. I want to create a place that moves with time. So do you aim to be the next Gucci, Prada, etcetera? I want to be like Coco Chanel when she began – when the range was still designed by her. She made a statement through her art and fashion – that women should wear something comfortable, chic and beautiful, and not be constricted by rules and corsets. She defined her target market – women who were breaking out of the shell in those days. The items created during that period are artifacts now because the people wearing them had a statement to make. When that statement is represented in fashion, you can never get bored with it. Growing up, did you do other kinds of art as well? Definitely. I love to paint. I usually like to draw in pencil and pastel. I also paint with acrylic. I am planning to refine my oil painting in the future, maybe when I'm old and not so productive. I played flute and piano a long time ago but my passion was for art and philosophy. What else do you do for fun? I like to play tennis with my family, watch movies, go out with my friends, blow off some steam with Muay Thai . . . when the weather is nice I practice my surfing. I love photography, reading books, shooting, outdoor activities, travelling! I love travelling. Muay Thai and shooting . . . no one should mess with you then? I want to know how to fight, in case I have to. I'm not going down easy. Word.

Touch of the Hepburns.

duoview

starMAKERS christina iskandar sat down with Bali's favourite hairdressing duo, David and Henne Mercer, to talk history, hair and happiness. photo: anthony dodds.

MORNING guys. We were wondering how you manage to have such a long lasting relationship and work together as well. What’s the secret? Henne: We operate the Toni & Guy salons and academies throughout Singapore, Malaysia and Bali. This means a huge amount of travelling – motivating and building up our teams and growing the business. As we have our daughter, India, studying at the Green School it means one of must stay at home with her. Absence makes the heart grow fonder. We have our own lives and sets of friends, and when we are together we become stronger. Saying that, we do speak to each other at least 20 times a day. I think if we were together 24/7 we would most probably drive each other crazy! Henne we know David is the style cutter everyone is waiting to book. What's your role at the Toni & Guy Salon? I run the marketing and PR for the company around the region which involves a wide variety of tasks from liaising with the press to fashion shows, events, the website, blog, etc. I love the diversity of my work and as social media develops it gives me a chance to expand my work into other areas and even involve my photography in it. You both seem to be jetting all over Asia, in particular Singapore and KL, what have you found most challenging and why? David: When we first moved into Singapore 18 years ago we had a Western approach to business. We quickly had to change and adapt to the local culture. I think the success of the company is due to merging Eastern and Western philosophies. Understanding the local staff needs, requirements and motivations. As a hairdresser, the problems we face are the same as everywhere. Generally if there is a problem in one of the salons it's not due to technical inability, it's due to a breakdown in communication.

When did you realise you wanted to become a hair stylist and where did you start? David: I was 17 when I first walked into the doors of Toni & Guy – back then the company had just one salon. Prior to that I was at Vidal Sassoon. I had always had a creative tendency but didn't believe creativity stemmed purely from a pencil. I grew up in the punk era and hair played a major part in the movement. I was actually expelled from school for colouring my hair with black and white stripes. My father freaked when I told him I wanted to do hair – I think he saw me becoming an engineer or an accountant. He's very proud of me now and loves his free haircuts. If you had chosen another career path what would it have been? David: A drug baron, gangster, gunrunner or a rock star! In fact when I grow up I've decided I'm going to be a rock star. Which celebrities’ hair have you cut? David: All of our clients are VIPs. Over the years I have cut numerous musicians, movie stars, royalty and TV personalities but would never market our business on their fame. I think that’s why we still attract a vast number of famous people, be it in Singapore, KL, and Bali, because we treat them the same as any other client. What advice can you give to anyone wanting the same career path? David: Hairdressing is an incredible career if you have the passion and drive for it. I’m 51 now and I still learn something new every day. I’ve travelled extensively throughout the world conducting shows, seminars, working on TV, movie, and fashion shoots. I feel very blessed to have been given the opportunity to work in an industry I love. But as with any career, what's important is the passion, hard work, focus, goals, learning from your mistakes, facing problems and meeting challenges head on.

How to you feel hairstyle relates to personal style? David: Hair is part of everyone’s personality, it should suit their hair texture, face shape, and be proportionate to their body shape and lifestyle. Perfect consultations and communication are imperative to giving a guest in our salons the perfect style. Hair is an integral part of everyone’s personal style. Most people would love having their dream job and living on an island, do you consider Bali your home? Henne: We are incredibly lucky to have businesses in Singapore, Malaysia and Bali and have the ability to be able to travel between these destinations. We now consider Bali to be very much our home and love living here. I personally believe it to be one of the most creative places in the world. The characters you meet, the amazing diverse beauty and serenity of the Balinese continuously motivates and inspires us both. What inspires you both and why? David: We are both very much inspired by people. Whether it's the Bali creative community, or our eclectic group of global friends, or our staff in our salons across Asia, or the diverse mix of clients/guests that come to our salons. Personally to see my staff join us knowing nothing about hair or our industry and progressing over time to become stylists, technicians, managers, art directors, and eventually salon owners is a wonderful experience. To give someone the opportunities I have been given is also very inspiring. Henne: I also feel that people and the landscape of Asia provide inspiration for myself and my photography, and our lives in general. The longer we spend here and the more we explore, experience and learn, the more we love it. Thanks for chatting with the Yak – can I book in tomorrow?

"When we are together we become strong." David and Henne.

ISSUES

“as I look in drains and rivers, I can see a lot of plastic. I know there’s a problem here.” Irons in the fire. 88

Michael Pohorly met with Jeremy irons – fresh from the movie trashed – at the Kartika Soekarno Foundation’s Posyandu clinics in Gianyar, which sponsor social support. Jeremy, what brought you to Indonesia? I was invited to Jakarta, to show our Trashed documentary, by Ibu Kartika Soekarno, and I must say that I meet a lot of people in life and there are only a few that I’ve been happier to meet than this wonderful lady. This is your first trip to Indonesia? Yes, although Trashed did some filming in the rubbish-filled canals in Jakarta, I wasn’t present for that. When Ibu Soekarno told me about her foundation I was delighted to join her here to Bali and see her work. Your film highlights the dangers rubbish is inflicting on our food systems and ourselves. How did you get involved? I wanted to make a film about something that was socially informed and I looked at other ideas before coming to Trashed. I had worked with director Candida Brady on another documentary and she was very concerned by the number of man-made chemicals present in newborn babies. Candida then did a lot of research on how this happens. She discovered that a large reason is the way we get rid of our trash by either incinerating it or burying it. She had an enormous amount of research and it was extraordinary. I thought that even though I’m reasonably well read, I know nothing, really, about the extent of this problem. What do you think of the rubbish situation here in Bali? Before I came here I’d heard it was pretty terrible. And as I look in drains and rivers, I can see a lot of plastic so I know there’s a big problem here. How does your profession tie in with environmental concerns? I see my role as the messenger. I’m not an activist, that’s not my role. I’m an actor and a storyteller . . . so I can hand these concerns over to people who can teach children and work with local governments to change things. I viewed Trashed and was shocked to learn that not only the floating Pacific garbage pile is essentially the size of Quebec, but also that the plastic flotsam exists in every sample of ocean water in the world. What astonished you in making the film? I was astonished by everything! How much garbage we produce worldwide was absolutely astonishing. I was astonished by how truly dangerous and deadly dioxins are to humans. These dioxins come from burning rubbish. Were there any positives you took away from making the film? I was heartened that at least in San Francisco–they are dealing with trash extremely successfully. This is the model we chose to show. They recycle 80 per cent of their trash. Recycling creates jobs, it creates money, it’s wonderful for the economy. It has to

start at the grass roots level, it has to start with the children, and has to start with the understanding that what they have and what they are throwing away has value if it’s disposed of sensibly. Trash has value? Yes, as long as the types of rubbish are kept separate it’s what is called clean garbage. Whether it’s food, plastic, paper or metals, if it’s kept separate and it can be recycled and then it is a resource. Recycling is just a part of life for many cities now with separate bins for everything in every home and business, but what can be done in places like Jakarta? In big cities like Jakarta a huge amount of organisation has to take place in order for these recycling systems to work – collection organisation – so it’s a bit of a problem to be worked out . . . you have to put processes in place. But it starts with a mental attitude – it starts with education. You need to start educating the very young. What’s your impression of the clinic here in Giaynar? I’m enormously impressed with the children, with the staff especially. Seeing it work in Gianyar is wonderful. And if it can work here with child health improving then other places in Bali will want to follow. So often in life we think that a problem is too big but you have to start small, show that it works, and everyone wants life to be better, so it will eventually spread. I’m also impressed by the cartoon booklet that Eco-Bali has put together for the kids to show them how they can make a great difference by cleaning up their rubbish. We have the saying, “from small acorns great oak trees grow”, and I think the booklet is the sign of an acorn. How we can change society if we don’t educate our children? I’m here in Indonesia to talk about trash and, of course, education, health, fighting against malnutrition. These things are really difficult to do and seeing it work in Gianyar is wonderful. Are you going to be doing any other films addressing global issues? Maybe. There are no specific plans but I have a desire to do it. I’ve spent a lot of my energy making films that I sometimes wonder how worthwhile they are. So it’s nice to spend similar energy making something that feels very worthwhile and is certainly worthwhile to travel around talking about it . . . rather than acting in something say like Beautiful Creatures. Aside from the rubbish, are you planning to take in some of the beauty of Bali as well? Yes I’m planning to enjoy and discover Bali as much as I can. I’m very interested in the crafts here, the design, the architecture, and my wife, Sinead, and I may even climb the volcano. That’s a big hike for a short visit. Maybe we’ll split it up then . . . she’ll do the bottom half and I’ll do the top half. Final words? Thanks to everyone here for making Sinead and I feel so welcome.

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interview

actress, model, singer. . . Sausan Machari channels A multifarious creativity to find her truth. WORDS: Drew Corridore Photo: Lukas Vrtilek

Sausan Machari is a cultural blend of Indonesia and Arabia who grew up in various parts of Java and Saudi Arabia, and understood at an early age that the only constant in this world is change. She says she was allergic to ants as a child but does not judge them. She likes butterflies for their beauty, and birds for their freedom to go where they wish on currents of nothingness. “My strongest memory from childhood is learning from my dad how to fix electronic stuff,” Sausan says. From a young age she realised she was a performer – she felt the undercurrents in music, and felt a need to express herself in ways that other children perhaps had yet to understand or develop. “I was engaged with music from about the age of five – and because we lived in Indonesia (before moving to Jeddah, Saudi Arabia) I loved the various kinds of music from this part of the world,” she says. “I came from a very Muslim family but through music from Indonesia and the Western world I began to craft my own truth, and manifested my own way of understanding things. “It wasn’t acceptable (in my family) to break away from the very strict Muslim interpretation of how to live but I kept on asking myself ‘why not look at things in a different way’. Even at a young age I didn’t embrace restriction.” The family moved around a lot, which, for anyone who has had similar experiences, meant a goodly amount of uncertainty that can lead to either insecurity, or a fascination with the moment . . . an embracing of any given situation. “I learnt not to try to plan things – and by not planning I receive life’s surprises, and one of those led me to understand that I wished to be a performer,” Sausan says. From around the age of 16 Sausan’s family saw her world from her perspective and understood that she was not merely being fanciful in her desire to perform, but rather had a strong feeling to move in an artistic direction. Sausan started modelling not long after that – one of her first assignments was a shoot for the CNN network – and in her late teens and early twenties spent a couple of years in Sydney working for some of Australia’s leading fashion designers. “After that I came back to Jakarta and spent seven years there and during that time I was offered a role in my first major movie,” she says. That movie was Detik Terakhir. “In Australia I did some acting workshops but like everything else in my life the role in Detik Terakhir kind of just came along.”

French photographer who hooked her up with his company . . . and several days later she had a contract, and spent the next three years modelling, acting, and doing theatre work in the Big Apple. Serendipity strikes again . . . Upon her return to Indonesia Sausan settled (as settled as she can ever be) on Bali. “I always wanted to live on Bali since the first time I came here . . . it just has a certain something that grabbed me from the start – but I knew at that time (pre-New York) that Bali didn’t want me,” she says. “But now I’m here and I love it. I still travel a lot but this is the place I love to come back to.” Sausan played a leading role in the Happy Salma-produced movie, Description Without Place, which was shot entirely on Bali. The 2011 project is a story about the past, present and future of three women from different geographical and cultural backgrounds who meet on Bali and become entwined in each other’s lives. More recently she has immersed herself in music – putting a group of musicians together to create the soundtrack for a film she is producing. . . . but that’s a tale for another time . . . “I like to sing bluesy, folky kind of music and, outside of the movie I’m making, I have a good connection with music and the people I play with,” Sausan says. “But as with most things in my life I don’t try to make it go in any particular direction . . . I just let it take me for a ride that I enjoy. I’m very into being connected with people and the things that I do, but to try to control where the journey goes is not part of my personal makeup. “The truth lays in nothingness, and in nothingness lays the truth.” One could be forgiven for thinking that Sausan’s journey is somewhat chaotic and that her soul flies on the wings of the birds she admired as a child. But within chaos lies a form of order – an order that is to be embraced but not clung to. An order that this talented woman sees as an equalising factor between the sexes, between races, colours and creeds. Fly on little wing . . .

The Indonesian movie industry had been in decline for more than a decade and Sausan just happened to be in the right place at the right time to participate in its revival. In 2007 she went to New York to represent Detik Terakhir at a film festival there and, while kicking back in a coffee shop, got talking to a

Jalan Saridewi 17 Seminyak Bali Ph. +62 361 736 750 www.thestrawhut.com

Kitchen, Bar & Shop

Seminyak - Bali

interview

“MY DOLLS TURN EVIL ENERGY INTO LOVE” FASHION DESIGNER Ludovica Virga CREATED MUA MUA DOLLS... AND THE PRESS WENT CRAZY. words: LORNA JANE SMITH PHOTO: ANTHONY DODDS

QUEEN MUA MUA. LAGERFELD'S A FAN.

Every fairytale lingers over its characters: a king, a queen, a fairy godmother; and the plot always includes dilemmas doused in evil and resolved by love. This story is the Mua Mua fairytale – the characters are crocheted dolls, and the storyline has been constructed by an Italian bella-donna, Ludovica Virga. Ludo is primarily based in Milan, Italy, but, in reality, has no fixed address while in pursuit of her crocheted dolce vita. She stumbled into the art of designing dolls when her intent was, in fact, to design women's fashion. The love child of a distinguished Italian couple, Ludo's life had been predetermined. The plan was to ship her to the USA to complete a Masters degree in business, return her to Italy where she would become a big swinger in a nice, safe bank, get married, and master the craft of making pasta. That was never going to happen. Instead, in defiance, Ludo travelled randomly from Hawaii to New York, had a great time, and obsessed about a future in design. She did not attend her university but, to her credit, mastered the English language. When her travels finished in New York she rang her papa in Italy and confessed her antics. Papa Virga was initially confused, probably pissed off, but ultimately compromising. The compromise was an economy ticket to Bangladesh. The plan was for Ludo to stay with a family friend who owned a clothing factory in downtown Dhaka and learn the business of fashion. An Italian princess obsessed by haute couture was thrown headfirst into a mass-manufacturing inferno. "So I get to Bangladesh, 24 years old, and I had never been in an Asian country. I had just lived a year in America. I was super fat because that's what America does to you,” Ludo says. “I was clueless, an Italian girl, not worldly and I am in this hectic hell - hole . . . In the end it was actually all very funny I think that even my hosts thought I shouldn't have been there. I'm glad it happened – it's where I started. I made my first collection in Bangladesh and it was really vulgar micro-mini clothes."

"At that moment Karl Lagerfeld launched the Mua Mua's and earned his position as king of the fairytale," Ludo says. Coco Chanel is queen of the Mua Mua's, simply because she is Ludo's anointed ultimate heroine. The Mua Mua kingdom consists of a diverse range of celebrities. There's Lady Ga Ga, Madonna, Frida Kahlo, Beyonce, Serge Gainsbourg , Dita Von Teese, and even the notorious Mao Tse Tung. The Mua Mua club is forever evolving. Apparently having a Mua Mua mini-me is a coveted chalice, sought, and enjoyed, by many celebrities and their devout fans. There is huge Mua Mua demand, and in the past year or so Harvey Nichols, Barneys NY, and many other elite retailers worldwide have become stockists. I wonder whether the Mua Mua dolls are more Italian by nature or Balinese? Ludo says that the positive energy behind the dolls is primarily due to the Mua Mua big bang theory – that moment when a young Balinese woman harassed Ludo into designing crazy raggedy dolls. That persistent former-beach-seller now controls the whole Mua Mua industry. Her family and village have become economically stable and they employ many villages to maintain the Mua Mua legacy. The Mua Mua's have manifested into a fair trade victory. There is also an abundance of Italian drama and egocentrisms oozing from the Mua Mua characters. The crux of the drama is that the Mua Mua characters are always uglier than humans. This is important to Ludo's theory – that bad luck vibes (invisible and allegedly always spinning around us) are attracted to the ugliest party. This explains why Mua Mua dolls are littered with stitches and scars. "The scars are where bad luck was caught and digested by the Mua Mua on your behalf. The Mua Mua then transforms that evil energy into love," Ludo says. I ask whether the Mua Mua is heart or soul? Ludo sighs, exasperated at my inadequacy in not comprehending the Mua Mua myth. She painstakingly explains that the Mua Mua is all heart and has no brain.

During this period of creating Euro-trash frocks Ludo took a break and came to Indonesia for the first time. It was after the second bombing when the world had temporarily deserted Bali.

"The Mua Mua are not paid to think, they are for the here and now. They must be cherished because if they need to, they will die to protect you. The Mua Mua give themselves to you completely."

"Every day while lying on the beach I would meet this woman who persistently tried to sell me crocheted bikinis," she says.

Ludo describes her role in the Mua Mua industries as a monkey riding on a monocycle, spinning plates, and trying to maintain balance.

Ludo recognised that this woman was struggling with the economic ramifications of terrorism. So Ludo drew monsters on a scrap of paper and asked her to bring them to life.

"I make so many mistakes every day," she says.

Years later Ludo was invited to a Chanel fashion show. She made a crocheted caricature of Karl Lagerfeld who would be attending. It took a bottle of champagne before Ludo had the gumption to march up to Lagerfeld and shove a crocheted look-a-like into his arms. He loved it and the press went crazy.

I think this zany Italian's genius radiates in acting on her impromptu array of mistakes. Unknowingly she is the fairy godmother of a land of iconic monsters all endeavouring to unite us mere mortals in looking at life with more tongue in cheek. Ludovica Virga: complicated Italian, should-be-princess, has created a popular myth endearing to anyone who believes in crocheted fairytale. 97

interview andrew e. Hall catches up with motivational speaker, stuntman, magician and escapologist, scott hammell, for a few tips on what not to do with your life. phott anthony dodds.

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Picture this . . . A steel vessel originally designed to hold 17 gallons (about 64 litres) of milk – a milk churn – is filled with water. A man is handcuffed with three pairs of the restraints around his wrists. He is helped into the churn by some assistants through a narrow opening at the top – taking a deep breath as his head is pushed under the slosh. A lid is placed on top and fastened in place with six padlocks. The handcuffed man is in an upright foetal position in the dark. He is expected to escape from his predicament. But in the anticipation and adrenalin-rush of contemplating such a stunt a lapse of concentration has occurred . . . his arms are pointing upward instead of downward.

And to that end Scott is also a motivational speaker for the Me to We organisation, and was recently on Bali as a keynote speaker at a Global Issues Network conference. “I was inspiring young people to make a change on a local level or even on a global level, and to start thinking about the social elements in their day-to-day lives that they might not normally think about,” he says. “My whole approach is to use what you’re passionate about to make a difference in the world. “For me, a magician, that might seem like a bit of a stretch but you attach something unique to it and people seem to dig it.”

Unfortunately his assistants outside have not properly assigned the various keys to their padlock partners – they fumble as the seconds tick down . . . the claustrophobic darkness presses in, inviting panic.

Scott’s passion in this respect is trying to develop strategies to turn around the environmental devastation visited upon the global community by those with a vested interest in destroying environments for profit. A pressing issue for Indonesia at this point, albeit not so much for her relevant authorities, is the clear-felling of the country’s rainforests for the palm oil industry . . . and the consequent eradication of the habitats of some of the rarest and most endangered animals in the world.

Who would be a professional escapologist?

Not to mention the displacement of indigenous human populations.

Scott Hammell (a 28-year-old Canadian) got out of that one . . . just. He is able to hold his breath for up to five minutes.

Scott cites the same kind of environmental tragedy taking place as we speak in the Amazon.

“Have you got a few ’roos loose in the top paddock?” I ask.

“You know we have tidal power, geothermal energy, the sun that we can collect energy from, but it doesn’t seem like that is the focus of a lot of people’s attention right now – they’d rather suck all the oil out . . .”

He cannot free himself. He cannot breathe. He bangs on the underside of the lid.

Scott smiles and shrugs a bit – he gets the analogy because his partner is an Australian woman. One of Scott’s signature stunts is to escape from a straight jacket while suspended upside down – at times dangling from underneath a hot air balloon. To perform this stunt one has to be able to dislocate one’s shoulder . . . Does it hurt? “Yes,” he says, “putting it back in hurts more than dislocating it . . . but once you’ve done it a number of times all the rotator cuff muscles get torn which makes it easier – which sucks but it’s good for me in a sense because I sometimes do it three times a day, five days a week. “My mum always says, ‘don’t you want to be able to lift your children’ ?” Doesn’t need to . . . Scott’s also a magician – he can levitate them. On one occasion Scott got into another pickle whilst attempting an escape while dangling from a bungy cord underneath a balloon. Someone forgot to read the instructions for the specialised bungy boots (takes two people to fasten them, not one) and as the balloon floated above a concrete runway they caught on the balloon basket . . . which is a bit of a worry when you’re inverted in a straight jacket and the crew can’t haul you back in.

People or policy-makers, I ask? “That is a very important distinction to make . . . I think the social consciousness of the people is changing and it’s at the forefront now, but the policy-makers have the money behind them,” Scott says. “Education is a huge issue and is the cornerstone of any change. “I’ve done development work in Kenya and you can see the differences between two types of villages . . . a village with an education system in place and one without – the ambition of the kids, level of awareness and consciousness, and even the levels of hygiene and health are vastly different.” Scott and I juggled the various notions of healthcare and how important it is – in concert with education – in lieu of the recent debacle in the United States where the nation was held to ransom by a few conservative hardliners. Canada has a national public healthcare system, as does Australia. “One of the recent stunts that I did I had severe second-degree burns to my hands and I was in a plastic surgeon’s office, and had regular follow-ups and was never billed for it,” Scott says.

Scott got away with that one too . . . without the balloon landing on his head.

Now, I know you’re wondering, “what’s he done this time”?

His hero and inspiration for these peculiar acts is, of course, the legendary Harry Houdini.

So, I’ll let him answer you . . .

“He was a master of pushing the envelope . . . and a master of looking at something and saying, ‘I shouldn’t be inside that but I want to and see if I can figure out how to escape’,” Scott says.

Nut bag!

It didn’t end well for Harry. Scott admires a number of his contemporaries as well, including David Blaine. “So have you ever contemplated getting yourself frozen in a block of ice?” I ask. “There are a few David Blaine-style endurance stunts that I’m working on redoing but my angle on them is instead of doing a stunt just for the sake of doing it there has to be some sort of social reason for it,” Scott says. “For instance, I lived in a glass box in downtown Toronto for a week and challenged the city to make me disappear by bringing canned food donations and piling them up around me. Then we’d give the food to the food banks.

“I was juggling live explosives.”

Bloody lucky he’s not an American – it would have cost him a small fortune. Seriously friends, Scott Hammell is a complex human being – affable, and undeniably ballsy, with a broad social conscience and ready wit. Slightly demented perhaps. He holds the record for the world’s fastest moving card trick – which involves jumping out of a perfectly good aeroplane. You can watch it on YouTube. And you can also hear this incredibly bright man on the Me to We website. I guarantee you will not be bored. I am happy to say that most of his stunts and tricks pass without any injury to himself or others – his latest one is swallowing a bunch of sewing needles and then a length of thread . . .

“So some sort of social context instead of, ‘here I am, look at me, aren’t I great’.” 101

Personality plus – Zohra Boukari is a fireball of enthusiasm and passion with no holds barred . . . By Salvador Bali. photo BY spencer hansen

The green light is on. Zohra Boukari, married with Blair Samoy, two daughters. I’m Moroccan, born in Belgium I've lived in Bali now for 18 years. Do you have a schooling background in interior design? I went to a normal school with no education in interior designing – my knowledge is all self taught. I’ve always loved beautiful decorations, beautiful homes. When I was 16 and lived in Europe I loved to go to antique markets . . . I would buy things that needed work, or that were unfinished, and then I would finish them by myself. So it has been a passion? Yes. If you don’t do this kind of job with passion, you can't do it. It’s a lot of work . . . concentration, sometimes frustration, and it’s a long road. If you follow a project all the way, the result is the most beautiful thing you can imagine. You travel through Indonesia? Yes. Indonesia has been colonised by various cultures, so if you travel to Java, for instance, you can still find a lot of European heritage. Then there's the Arabic influence. If you put Indonesian, European and Arabic together under the same label then you can find something very nice. Do you have a specific style as an interior designer? I have my own style, I think. I try to follow a little bit of my clients' whims but most of my clients come to me because they like my style. Let’s define what that is . . . Oh wow. I hate perfection, I hate minimalism, I love everything that has a life to it. I like to give my projects an antique feel. Basically you deal with warm feelings – Art Nouveau, modern or abstract? I don’t like abstract or modern. I like opulence. This is the way you share your life – you share your personality, and people feel very welcome. I presume you decorated Bistro Restaurant . . . Oh yes, it’s ours. I’ve loved that place since the day it opened. We did everything . . . furniture, decoration, the works. Did you come to Bali with the idea of opening an interior design business? No, not at all, I was very scared. When we were heading to Asia, I thought, what am I going to do? There's only plastic over there! I'm also from a big family, and I knew I would miss that. But the time came to accept and just find our way, find the philosophy, the mentality of Balinese people. So where did the idea come from . . . I mean in those days

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there wasn’t much happening? Not much at all. When we started we rented a house in Jimbaran, and at that time we didn’t even know where Jimbaran was. We liked the atmosphere of the place though. I started renovating a little bit, and then started looking for furniture, but it was expensive at that time in comparison to Europe. Then the (financial) crisis hit, and the prices became really interesting, so I started decorating the whole house – Villa Balquisse. We had two rooms and thought, why don’t we rent one room, then another and another. In the end we finished with a boutique hotel. And then people wanted me to do their houses – I was really surprised, I never imagined someday I would be happy decorating a restaurant or a hotel – so that’s how we started. Then we created The Shaba and that’s when it really took off. When did you open your company in an official sense? Eight years ago – with my first client in Bali, DaLa Spa. In the end they won the Best Spa in Asia award. That was really good for me . . . nice. Do you work only in Bali? We have many projects in Jakarta, Surabaya, a project in Paris, another in China. I have a lot of proposals overseas but I don’t want to do too much – I still have my daughter with me, I want to take care of her, I think we have enough to do here. I’m a business woman definitely, but not the kind of woman who will sacrifice her life for business. What is your philosophy? Love, enjoy, understand, be kind. I think you can do a lot with that. w.zohra.bz

+62 857 W

WORK HARD. PLAY HARD. CLEANSE. REPEAT. JL LAKSAMANA 151, SEMINYAK, BALI / +62 857 3968 3850 FACEBOOK.COM/THETOWNHOUSEBALISQUEEZE

WE DELIVE

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artsake

Artist Brett Pollock puts pigment on a life of artistic endeavour. WORDS: Salvador Bali. photo: Spencer hansen.

"Iâ€™m a bit of an old Kerouac beatnik."

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artsake

Paint the canvas Brett. I'm an Australian expat based in Sanur. My wife is Indonesian, we have an eight-year-old boy and I’ve been in Bali some 13 years now. I worked as a mosaic designer/overseer for a large stone export company for about seven years and at the same time I was doing my art. When my job finished and I went solo, my art sales increased until, in late 2011, we opened our own small gallery, Art Haus, on Jalan Drupadi, Seminyak. Bali hosts a great variety of international tourists, and many dealers and gallery people visit the island. It has a longstanding reputation as a hub for arts and crafts – a cultural destination. I think expats have added another facet to this through their art and design input . . . without conflicting with the traditional or contemporary Balinese arts. Bali is a portal to the world art market, more so than if I was living in my hometown of Perth, for example. I am definitely exposed to an international market here. Did you have a formal art training background? I've been into art as long as I can remember – since I was a kid – drawing all the time, or writing. I was one of those kids whose schoolbooks were covered in doodles and cartoons, hiding at the back of the class, and daydreaming. From about 14 I had a school holiday job working at a signwriting and screen-printing business, but I was around 17 when I really got the art bug and became interested in pop art and started making my own crude little canvasses. Pop art and Warhol had permeated our culture . . . Hendrix, The Doors, Rolling Stones, Janis Joplin and soul, Motown was on the radio charts and the Sgt. Pepper’s album was out . . . exciting times. After a working holiday in Ireland and England and travelling Europe I returned to study art at night school and gained entrance into fine arts at the West Australian Institute of Technology. After a year of fine arts, painting and drawing regularly, I became an art school dropout, and travelled around South-East Asia – so, the school of life over the years. By ‘85 I was back in Perth and started Eldorado Designs – a street-style label and retail outlet. Once again I was designing and screen-printing fabric, yardage and T-shirts. I was a slave to my own industry for 10 years. I fell out of that exhausted by the fashion scene and returned to painting full-time for four years and living in a southwest coastal beach shack near Yallingup . . . washing dishes and cleaning

says brett: "I’m heavily influenced by the consumer society, the pursuit of happiness, the cult of celebrity, the myth of capitalism." amen.

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artsake

Pop artist Pollock soaks up contemporary life â€“ and puts it on canvas.

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resorts for an income. It was there I was offered a job in Bali. I’ve always

Do you paint according to moods and, if so, does it affect your original

been around screen printing and had always continued with my painting

concepts?

through these years, exhibiting in Sydney, Perth, Fremantle and Bunbury.

I always have some basic idea when I start, it might be to do a monotone

What or who inspires you?

or limited palette work, or come in big bold and bright. It could be

My influences are varied and ever changing. I seem to have a circle of

some kind of half-baked narrative, or to trial a certain technique. Once I

influences and rotate around them, drawing out different elements. But the

get the framework down I pretty much fly by the seat of my pants and

core is the art of those who started the pop art movement – Rauschenberg,

freestyle it. I work fairly quickly to a near finish, then I let it breathe for

Rosenquist, Warhol etcetera, along with Gilbert and George, David Salle and

a day or two, on my lounge room wall, seeing what needs adjusting. I

the current neo-pop artists and street artists. I’m heavily influenced by the

do have concepts, themes, moods, notations, lists, sketches, tear sheets

consumer society, the pursuit of happiness, the cult of celebrity, the myth

and scraps, and it's all one big grab bag. The artist is a huge sponge

of capitalism and democracy, product branding, commercial propaganda,

going around absorbing everything and soaking it up and filtering

the suburban dream, the decay and detritus of the urban wastelands, along

it and processing it and then it all kind of spews forth as paint.

with billboards, advertising, pulp journals and vintage magazines. Selling

Are there other mediums you would like to work with?

happiness as a brand or product that we can all buy into, is also interesting

I’d like to work in moving images, illuminated images, neon

. . . everything from bank loans to toothpaste involves the happiness brand.

art, LED, and to do huge printed digital works. I’m attracted to

Do you see conflicts between commercial art, Photoshop, or just

the printed image as much as I love the texture of paint.

canvas painting?

How do you view the art world treating you?

I consider myself an underground artist, only because I don’t seem to fit

The art world looks after those that look after themselves I guess.

into any of the other categories. I’ve always been an outsider to the art

I can’t complain, I tend to be a bit of a recluse, so I’m not socially

machine and its galleries. I guess I’m some kind of pop artist, and I see

active and promoting myself. I rely too much on my art to do the

myself as a magpie, a bit of a Jack-of-all-trades or styles. I don’t like to get

talking, and hope that somehow I’ll be discovered. Last year I had

too bogged down in one style or technique. Sometimes I’m called a retro

a bulk purchase by a dealer from Monaco, and just last week I was

artist, but I don’t know what that means. I’m fascinated by old images

“discovered” by a top gallery in Florida. The owner was here to get

from the past, black and white photos, and found images, that represent

married, driving past on his last day in Bali. So he's compiling a

a fleeting moment in time . . . a past life once lived, faded dreams and

substantial order, for his personal collection, and clients, and intends

aspirations with often a haunting quality to them. I like to juxtapose

to promote my work at the Basel Art Show in Miami in December.

these with current images or political and social comment. Art is in an

Your philosophy of life?

interesting place now with Internet and Photoshop, digital art, 3-D art,

As a part-time writer, I’m a bit of an old Kerouac beatnik, and I often pray

and moving vision etcetera. I certainly don’t know the half of it, but it

with voodoo charms to the badly illuminated seedy shrines of Hunter S.

seems to be evolving faster and merging with cutting edge technology

Thompson and Bukowski, so my philosophy is a bit warped. I keep moving

and industry more so, but no, I don’t see a conflict with any of this.

so the mold doesn’t grow. I don’t put down roots or aspire to a house and a

How do you see the art scene in Bali?

mortgage and all that jazz – it makes me feel stuck, trapped somehow, like

I don’t know too much about the Bali art scene. I’m stuck in my own

I’m drowning in the overwhelming banality of it all. After many years here,

bubble in Sanur and frankly I’m not interested in a lot of stuff I see in

with a small family, this is the closest I’ve been to settling down to being

galleries around the place. It’s like yesterday-land, someone’s traditional

normal. Fortunately Indonesia’s normal is pretty chaotic and unregulated,

concept of fine art as business. On the upside I’m aware of some great

so we get along fine. But my philosophy on life is to treat people the way

cutting edge stuff that springs from local art campuses using all the

you’d like to be treated by others . . . unless that’s excessively kinky . . . and

latest media, along with the expat surf and motorcycle culture/art thing.

beware of Facebook, it’s the devil’s work, and is a portal to social hell.

What mostly interests me is just street life and images, contrasts, textures, weathered old signs, curious juxtapositions, ripped and torn posters etc.

www.facebook.com/brettpollock

What obstacles do you find in Bali? My main obstacle is making the general public aware of our little gallery. Many choose to refresh themselves in Bali with the liquid amber, but I’ve tried that route and it’s a cul-de-sac in nowhereville. If I lived anywhere else I would have a different set of obstacles. As much as the traffic, for example, wears me down, it is also complete freedom . . . that’s freedom complete with pollution and kamikaze scooters, and I try not to forget that.

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culture vulture

anthony Mcinerheney gets into the heads of a texan pair with a disproportionate effect on bali's contemporary cultural and creative design. portrait by Anthony Dodds.

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The road stretched away in front of them. The non-descript Toyota Corolla careening along with three occupants. Renée Fernandez, Ryan’s girlfriend, is at the wheel, she’s the only one paying attention to Highway 35, and even then it’s really only half. She’s following the conversation of the other two, Caleb Owen Everitt and Ryan Rhodes. They had started to talk out loud about notions both had secretly harboured. The border where design and art meet. How it’s possible to have one and retain the other and, the big one, the idea that these two might work with one another. Once the idea was out, they liked it. Brand new, shiny, and the potential to be both fulfilling and thrilling. That 40-odd minute ride about three years back when they had that conversation on a Texan road heading back to their old Alma Mater, Texas State University, to attend the graduate show, to lend their support to the next wave. Now we know them as one of the most interesting design/art teams around. They work for über-hip companies and individuals that share their aesthetic – a clutch of motorcycle brands, a bicycle company, skateboards and lots of clothing lines like Van’s, Monster Children, Patagonia, Poler, and Deus ex Machina. What’s interesting is the slew of smaller jobs for friends, or as they call them, buddies – Johnson’s Backyard Garden, Folk Fiber, Flat Track Coffee, and my personal favourite, Easy Tiger Bake Shop and Beer Garden. It’s this sense of social that permeates what they do that’s piqued my interest. They tell me that with each job they try to rebuild themselves, try new shit”, as they put it. They both grew up in Texas, both went to the same Uni, though in different years. Their paths first crossed while Ryan was a senior designer for an ad agency – Caleb did his internship there and they sat side by side. I suppose that must have been the beginning of the conversation. Subsequently Caleb graduated and headed off to the big

smoke, New York. After working there for a few years he moved to Portland to take up an artistic director position. Then just over three years back, he chucked it all in and moved to Austin. He had two intentions. One was definitely starting up his own shop. The other was to restart the conversation with Ryan. Ryan hadn’t stagnated. He moved onward and upward through senior positions in agencies – one job taking him for a stint in San Francisco – but he, too, returned to his native Austin. Ryan reflected that in starting Land with Caleb he had to abandon everything he had done previously in his professionall life. Just walk away from it, simply because he didn’t want to do that again. Damn that’s hard, cathartic definitely, but brave . . . to walk away from all those years. When they met up again they’d already developed their likes, dislikes. Both had strong work ethos. Both had used their time to learn to articulate what they thought and wanted. Both had decided that, above all, you must remain true to yourself. Both agreed that having a good time while you did anything was imperative. The magic thing about them is that they seem genuinely egoless toward each other. Who does what and when seems to change. One takes the lead on this, the other that. Roles swap and ideas flow. Critique is given, taken and applied. They tell me of a time of working out each other’s ebb and flow, now they have each other’s meter. Land’s first job was for Van’s and wasn’t all that collaborative. Each had worked more or less independently from home. Back then they didn’t have a physical place to go. This made them acutely aware of the need to have an abode where both could work. A place they both felt comfortable in. Creative. So they set about starting up their own shop. They were convinced that they

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culture vulture

reality check.

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needed to short-circuit the process, a place where they could constantly show each other their bits and bobs. Doodles and diagrams . . . a place where they could continue their conversation. They finally found it. It’s not overly massive, but it’s big for them. It’s got the design area all up one side. In the middle is a big timber library divider structure. Thick old recycled beams reborn into something new. Not imposing so much as impressive. Like all their design, it’s been very well considered. On the other side they have their private motorbike garage. They like to fiddle on their rides. After all, they are just two boys. Two hours working tempered by two hours tinkering. Buddies drop by and they down tools – whether it’s a spanner, a stylus or a pencil, to hang out. Mornings they have their favourite coffee shops that they haunt with friends. Nights they head to their favourite bars. It’s all very social. In a internet-infested, bustling, worldwide design scene these two keep their head down. Once bitten, twice shy. There was an awkward situation where they were called out over a design. Some small thing unconsciously copied. It was a cathartic moment. As designers they need to remain authentic. So they turned to the past. Their favourite artists are all dead, you can see that pretty quickly from their work – Ruben-esque women casually reclining on surfboards; Egyptian hieroglyphics; North Indian mythical imagery; Greek referenced iconography. Typefaces most people aren’t using. Space. I see a lot of space. It’s beautiful, balanced and simplified. Individually both of them had an incredibly strong visual presence on the Net. Collectively they have added to it. Just nowadays you don’t find them browsing so often. Land is driven to making work that has longevity, the idea that if they try a little harder the net result could be work that might have relevance in five or so years rather than just one or two. Frequenting the bygone to build brand new rather than looking over their shoulders to see what the other guys and gals are doing. We meet at Deus ex Machina’s Temple of Enthusiasm in Canggu. They’d been invited over to Bali for an artist in residency month. Renee came and they bought along another buddy, Kevin – a horticulturalist/gardener/odd job type who liked to surf and thought it would be a good idea to join them. While here they produced a drove of designs for Deus to use. Something they had been doing on and off for a couple of years. Way back, just after Land’s inception, when the world didn’t know them as an entity, both had been contacted separately by Carby Tuckwell – Deus’ founding partner and creative director who asked them if they’d be interested in sending him some scribbles he might use. So they did. I ask them why – surely they knew little or nothing about this fledgling Australian brand. They both chuckled and told me that Carby gives great email. They also loved Carby’s appreciation of their first effort. And from there the collaboration,

and the emails, began and have been going ever since. While in Bali they worked with a lot of different materials and people to put together an art show at the Deus Gallery. “A Gift to the Dogs of Time” was a multi-media raft of work containing multiple influences – a surfboard shaped by Ryan Lovelace, a motorcycle built in the bengkel at Deus under direction from Land, illustrations covered in resin, gold leaf inlays and a romp of printed pieces. The diversity of work is testament to one of their golden rules . . . don’t do any one thing for too long. A few hours here, a few hours there. Stop for a beer and a belly laugh before starting back out on whichever project took their fancy. In the machine shop, at the bar, or up in the gladak doing scribbles or finished art. Mornings were mostly beach-bound, something you don’t get a lot of living in Texas, and which they took full advantage of. They did a quick trip up to West Java for a few days. If you fly half way around the world you might as well take advantage of the situation and do a spot of poking about. And then just as we got to know them the exhibition opened and they were gone. It was an incredible jaunt with these guys, albeit brief. They ride a wave of stoke that is awe-inspiring . . . finishing one thing and moving to the next, not pausing, abandoning it to time and not getting too attached. The more you give out or let go of, the more you get back in. www.workbyland.com

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Shot on film at SALT Studio

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omnibus

I’m sick and tired of hearing things from uptight, short sighted, narrow-minded hypocritics . . . just give me some truth . . . - John Lennon Good luck with that Jonno, given the caliber of public and private sector leadership in many of the world’s countries these days. One of the craziest things I heard at the back end of 2013 was that the mayor of Toronto, Canada – who resembles a cane toad – reckons that being busted (although not by the rozzers) for smoking crack cocaine doesn’t present an issue when it comes to continuing in his position as the city’s leading citizen. Rob Ford might well not be Toronto’s mayor when this gets published because the idiot has a habit of allowing others to video his crack smoking, his drunken rants, and his threats to commit murder. But he is a fine metaphor for the abuse of position that is fairly ubiquitous in, so-called, democratic societies. We live in a world where large corporations have more political and economic leverage than all the rest of us put together. We live in a world of governments that are increasingly “conservative” – see also self-aggrandising and bent on limiting community entitlements to the point where the “little” people are left to fend for themselves . . . while indulging the top end of town (most notably the banking sector) in a form of socialism with their multi-billion dollar bailouts for screwing up royally. They created the GFC by on-selling dodgy mortgage bundles; they’ve been colluding to rig interest rates for years . . . CEOs who should be imprisoned for daylight robbery walk away

Andrew E. Hall laments the [lamentable] current world order.

with multi-million dollar bonuses. And our governments tell us – in a deluge of PR material that is faithfully reproduced by the media – that it’s for our own good. And vast numbers of us believe this nonsense. Just give me some truth . . . But where can you find it? Do we look to Silvio Berlusconi – who has been prime minister of Italy about 16 times and indicted criminal charges on even more numerous occasions? He’s free, and still having a fine old time. Do we look to Rupert Murdoch and his media empire to fairly and accurately report on what’s going on around us? Rupert couldn’t lay straight in bed if he tried. Do we look to the newly elected Australian government – which is lying to the Australian people about asylum seekers and treating Indonesia with colonialist disdain? The Australian people are learning more of the truth about this issue from the Jakarta Post! This motley crew of career politicians is, at the very best reading, in denial about the truth of climate change . . . even as the largest storm in recorded history devastates parts of the Phillippines. Let’s not even bother talking about American Republicans – a bunch of numpties. So who can we turn to get a more cogent depiction of the human condition, a more realistic view of how we’re getting on?

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The less privileged among us are already living in the apocalypse, says russell brand, comedian and champion of change.

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omnibus

time for a walk on the wild side.

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Events that caused me some sadness in 2013 were the deaths of two of my musical idols, J.J. Cale and Lou Reed. What made me even sadder was that when I mentioned their passing to a 30-something-year-old friend of mine she said, “who?” I could only shake my head as the burden of age weighed heavily upon me. December 8th 2013 marked the 33rd anniversary of the murder of another truth seeker, peace activist, and lyrical and musical genius, John Lennon. I think my friend has actually heard of him. One of the most uplifting moments of 2013 for me was watching the documentary Searching for Sugar Man about Latino-American singer/songwriter, Rodriguez (who is, thankfully, still with us), whose debut album, Cold Fact (1970), has been one of my favourites for more than 30 years.

Thanks Joni – your song should be played more on Bali. Or Lou Reed’s: Well Americans don’t care for much of anything Land and water the least And animal life is low on the totem pole With human life not worth more than infected yeast Americans don’t care too much for beauty They’ll shit in a river, dump battery acid in a stream . . . Sound familiar? Lou was a New Yorker (for those who didn’t know) and was integral to the glam rock movement and the evolution of punk. He cared deeply about his country, was frustrated

Was it a huntsman or a player that made you pay the cost

by contradictions between the stated and the actual. His music asked questions,

That now assumes relaxed positions and prostitutes your loss

uncomfortable questions. But sometimes discomfort is the only way to shock us out of our

Were you tortured by your own thirst in those pleasures that you seek

indolence.

That made you Tom the curious, that makes you James the weak . . .

Some of you might think I’m throwing this together with a pastiche of borrowed words, and

You won’t get lyrics like that from sledge-hammer-sucking, wrecking-ball-riding, twattish

in a way you may be right, but more often than not the words of these people are way, way,

twerking, pop tart, Mylie Cyrus.

more profound and moving than any I might write. And words, in and of themselves (despite

How about these words from Rodriguez, Mylie, they might well apply to you . . . And your measure for wealth by things you can hold And your measure for love by the sweet things you’re told And you live in the past of a dream that you’re in

what many record companies and publishing houses would contend), are a common resource to be used by all of us, and shared by all of us, as we weave life’s rich tapestry (I borrowed that one too). Anyway, back to the revolution . . .

And your selfishness is your cardinal sin . . .

Comedy is becoming more and more important in revealing certain truths and intervening

Don’t try to enchant me with your manner of dress

in certain potentialities. It is revolutionary in the sense that it allows us to reflect upon

Because a monkey in silk is a monkey no less . . .

ourselves, and the circumstances in which we live, in an amusing way. It makes us think

How did he know? My fervent wish is that when someone mentions Mylie Cyrus, the person on the other side of the conversation replies, “who?” Fat chance. But in 20 years’ time . . .

outside the box. Peter Sellers in the film Being There; the brilliantly twisted pair of Peter Cook and Dudley Moore; the exquisite madness of Barry Humphries, a.k.a. Dame Edna Everage . . . Billy Connolly’s gut-busting stories about the dark side of his hometown, Glasgow. Comedy played an important role – at least I think so – in averting the potential disaster

I suspect where I’m going with this has something to do with notions of applied “truth” and

of Sarah Palin becoming the vice-president of the United States in 2008. Thank you Tina

a visceral clinging – on my part – to the belief that there have been, and perhaps still are,

Fey and Saturday Night Live for saving us from the horror of an Alaskan bimbo being a

people whose integrity and vision can galvanise people into thinking outside their personal

heartbeat away from the most powerful office on earth. It must be said, however, that

squares. Who might persuade us to more rigorously exercise our democratic rights. And,

Sarah often didn’t help her own cause, or that of her party, with her own special form of

maybe, revolutionise the way in which we relate to, and treat, each other.

comic relief.

There’s a juxtaposition here in that the more orthodox members of societies (see also those

Chris Rock has weighed in on the gun debate in the US with his guns and bullets sketch,

who think the status quo is the way forward) would claim that prescient personages like

which I’m sure you can find on You Tube. Hasn’t had the desired effect, though . . .

Joni Mitchell, Joan Baez, John Lennon, Lou Reed, Hemmingway and Hunter S. Thompson

Americans are way serious about their guns.

were “deviant” in their personal behaviours – largely because they, allegedly, dabbled in certain substances . . . and in some cases might have been somewhat experimental in their intimate encounters – therefore their offerings are suspect and worthy of disregard. Character assassination has always been a pet project with establishment types. But truth will out: Don’t it always seem to go that you don’t know what you’ve got ‘til it’s gone They rape paradise and put up a parking lot . . .

And more recently English comedian/actor, Russell Brand, has been using his status and humour in an attempt to galvanise people into at least thinking about their current predicament. Russell starred in the movie Get Him to the Greek, which another 30-something erstwhile friend of mine thinks is the best movie ever. She is Italian and has evidently not heard of Federico Fellini. But Russell has stirred some attention outside of his performances after being on the receiving end of an existential moment. He writes in The Guardian newspaper: “It's easy to attack me, I'm a right twerp, I'm a junkie and a cheeky monkey, I accept it,

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omnibus

Brand was invited to guest edit the New Statesman. Big mistake for Big Business. Left: Hitting Back

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omnibus but that doesn't detract from the incontrovertible fact that we are living in a time of huge economic disparity and confronting ecological disaster . . . “The less privileged among us are already living in the apocalypse, the thousands of street sleepers in our country, the refugees and the exploited underclass across our planet daily confront what we would regard as the end of the world. No money, no home, no friends, no support, no hand of friendship reaching out, just acculturated and inculcated condemnation . . . “When I first got a few quid it was like an anesthetic that made me forget what was important but now I've woken up.” He is also quoted as saying: “. . . young people have been accidentally marketed to their whole lives without the economic means to participate in the carnival.” With this I must take issue because the marketing is in no way, shape, or form “accidental”. But Russell might be on the right track when he says: “If we all collude and collaborate together we can design a new system that makes the current one obsolete. The reality is there are alternatives. That is the terrifying truth that the media, government and big

species but contemporary evidence (indeed, that of millennia) would suggest that it would be a waste of column centimetres. And I’m not going to hop onto my social media bandwagon – been there, done that. No, for me life’s truths lay in the words of my fallen heroes – and those who still stand up.

business work so hard to conceal.”

It lays in the words and actions of 16-year-old Malala Yousafzai – the youngest person

Would that it be so . . . but sometimes we are our own greatest obstacles.

shot in the head (when she was 14) for promoting the right of females to be educated in

ever to be nominated for a Nobel Peace Prize (in 2013). She was the girl that the Taliban

I was in England recently with an expat mate of mine from these parts. Despite the

Pakistan, and anywhere in the world where women are treated as inferior . . . by men who

amazing history and culture, art and architecture, the beautiful spaces (not to mention

are clearly, themselves, inferior.

the pubs), many, many people – and I’m not talking about the overtly downtrodden and

It is people like Malala who might shame us all into saying, “stop this!”

oppressed – live in cages of their own building. Yes, the rule-bound, and often hide-bound, nature of English society can be pointed to as part of the cause for belittling aspirations . . . of trampling on dreams and freedoms. But we as individuals bear at least equal responsibility for what we can achieve. It reminded me of the scene from The Life of Brian where Brian shouts down from the

It is she and her courageous contemporaries who just might foment a gentle revolution that has been brewing for a long, long time. And in anticipation of that happening I would like to send a message to those who are wont to quell such an event . . . some words penned by the man who topped this piece:

window of his mum’s house at an assemblage of folks who believe him to be the Messiah:

We don’t know what rules you’re playing

“You are all individuals!” says he.

You think you’re cool, you know what you’re doing

One of the throng raises his arm and says: “I’m not!” While we were in Old Blighty Neal and I reflected on our decision to take a risk and leave our past lives behind in our respective countries – our families, and many of our friends – and move to Bali to see if we could make a go of it. It wasn’t a discussion that involved any level of smugness I can assure you. More a “phew” moment . . . got away with that one . . . so far. When the English soap opera Coronation Street (think of the equivalent in any of your countries) appears to be a documentary, reality can get a bit spooky. The kind of passive revolution promoted by The Beatles in the ‘60s and early ‘70s in England and around the world might have had a chance of making a difference – and for a while it probably did – but people ran out of acid . . . and their parents’ money. From this end of history it looks like we ended up in a world more Orwellian than Sgt. Peppers . . . even on Bali where the almighty buck, and people elbowing each other out of the way to make them, has transcended the more gentle community-oriented society that features in my memory of only about 20 years ago.

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We could get into the role of organised religion in making us a more caring, sharing

We don’t even want to play your game And six, six, six, is your name So while you’re jerking off each other You bear this thought in mind Your time has come, you better know it But maybe you just can’t read the signs . . .

"We live in a world where large corporations have more political and economic leverage than all the rest of us put together."

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PHOTOGRAPHY Mehmet Erzincan STYLING OZLEM ESEN & Hakan Urfalioglu

the yak went to istanbul to shoot fashion. yew.

photographer's assistant Sinan Erol HAIR Serkan Yildirim MAKEUP Gulum Erzincan MODEL Katarzyna Ciesielska at New Models Istanbul

With thanks to Asli Tuncha boutique hotel Sunglasses by Prisoners of St Petersburg bracelet by Ã–zlem Esen Bikini top by Fella, available at a.muse Skirt by Arzu Kaprol

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Hi-top skirt and lace bolero by Özlem Süer Bikini top by Fella, available at a.muse Hat by fallenbrokenstreet Shoes Özgur Masur Palm Ring by Özlem Esen

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Dress Özlem suer Bracelet Özlem Esen Shoes Özgur Masur Chanel bag

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Dress Özlem Suer Stockings Agent Prrovocateur Shoes Özgur Masur

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Black dress with lace back details Ă–zgur Masur

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lace dress by Ă–zgur masur bra by Zeki Triko bikini bottom by fella, available at a.muse Shoes Ă–zgur Masur

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ktz dress Palm Rings Ã–zlem Esen

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Sheer kaftan Ă–zlem Suer underwear by miss milne available at miss milne Suspenders Zeki Triko Shoes Ă–zgur Masur bikini bottoms Fella available at a.muse

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Dress with tail Özlem Suer shoes Özgur Masur

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next gen

A generation of switched-on Bali YOUNGSTERS who have clearly found their calling; who have followed their passion, and are about to make the world their oyster â€“ simply by believing in themselves. Erik Baker meets BALI'S NEXT GEN KIDS.

ILLUSTRATION: MOTO SASAKI

Styling: Christina Iskandar Photos: Jason Reposar

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next gen

Jeren Kiring (17) – Indonesia’s National Champion Surfer: Lombok-born Jeren has already made a name for himself well beyond the local surf scene, winning 12 major comps including Ripcurl’s Grom Search and Volcom Q Series – landing him tickets to compete in Fiji in 2014. He started paddling at age six and was noticed when he was 14 by surf legend, Rob Machado, who recognised his mature surfing style. Bali’s own surf legend, Rizal Tangung, organised a Hurley sponsorship contract and took Jeren under his wing, ensuring that he gets to all the major comps abroad in pursuit of what seems sure to become a pro-surfing career. Jeren’s motto is, “finish school, never stop learning, don’t give up, and follow your passion.” Seems that Jeren’s dream of surfing the world and getting paid for it has come almost close enough to touch . . . Reef Doig (16) – surfer: Living up to his name, Reef is the born surfer who commenced paddling in the waves at age four, then started to compete at age nine. After collecting a few smaller wins and narrowly missing out on wining the King of the Grom Bali competition, he triumphed in the Billabong Occy Grom Comp as the under-dog, making a real splash on the Grom scene. Reef has been living in Bali for 13 years, attended SOK in Kerobokan and was noticed by Tai Buddha Graham of the O’Neill Team at age 14, who sponsored him on the spot. Reef rides Gunter Rohn boards and spends four to five hours a day in the waves in preparation for 2014’s junior series when he really wants

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to crack the Australian surf scene. He is determined to make a procareer of his wave-riding talent and is also a keen supporter of FTW – anti suicide initiative.

photography, she is more passionate about portraits and working in natural light, but really comes to life with digital enhancement of her wide range of images.

With his motto, “go hard or go home”, we will see a lot of him on the global surf stage in the years to come.

“I like to use this mixed medium to express my creativity and to share how I view the world”, she says. In short, she has the makings to forge a career with her artistic passion. An exhibition is in the planning . . .

Maria Castano, (15) – model: Born in Italy to Argentinean and Italian parents, Maria spent her early childhood, and the past six years living on Bali. Apart from small modelling gigs for friends and smaller brands, she has already done fashion shoots for Brazilian clothing brand Boutique, collaborated in arts projects and now endeavors to go to Australia after completing her schooling in pursuit of a professional modelling career. Maria has that natural beauty, the tall slender build and the spark, which tend to be prerequisites for success on the catwalk or in front of the lens. “I would like to expand on my modelling, getting in with the right agency is the next step,” she says. India Mercer (16) – photographer: India was born in England, grew up in Singapore and has been living on Bali for the past three years. Her mother’s passion and career in photography meant that she grew up amongst cameras, but only focused on a creative pursuit behind the lens a couple of years ago. However, the talent had surely rubbed off. India’s eye for composition and talent for the art of photography inevitably led her to a run of assignments for a number of labels including Glasses & Bowties. Although she enjoys fashion and product

Luciana Correa (17) – musical actress: Luci started performing when she was just six years of age. “We did Annie in grade two and ever since then I have been hooked on musicals,” she says. Born in Argentina, she has been living on Bali for the past 11 years, and is currently working on a production of Grease. She is determined to attend London University in musical theatre in pursuit of her dream – to one day perform on Broadway. Her years of training are immediately apparent, and with all the talent in place it is hard to imagine why she should not make her dream a reality. Her role-models are Leonardo DiCaprio and Johnny Depp, whom she admires for their ability to slip so fully into their character and mold to it. With her voice and dance moves as strong as her characterisation, Luciana’s motto of, “go for it, even if you are scared”, is sure to help her carve the stage career she is dreaming of. Achyuth Jaigopal (17) – guitarist: At age nine this virtuoso – born in Kerala, India – picked up his father’s old guitar and replayed the chords he had heard him play . . . only much better, and

next gen

the bond with the strings was instantly obvious. He started to take lessons, excelled, and went on to study classical guitar. Fast - forward eight years and Achyuth has just completed grade eight, the highest level at Trinity of London, recorded his own version of Andy McKee’s fingerstyle piece Drifting and is the lead guitarist of newly formed six-piece band, Nasi Campur, which has already toured India and performed at venues across Bali. Achyuth, ‘AJ’, writes his own material and performed solo to audiences of 5,000-plus, spreading his positive message through conscious music at events such as 1 Billion Rising and M.A.D. Festival. With inspiration drawn from artists like Andy McKee, he is set to make his talented passion his career path. His outfit is already booked to play alongside Michael Franti as part of the Soulshine Festival at the Green School on December 27th & 28th. Seeing him play and be at one with his instrument it is obvious that we are destined to see a whole lot more from this young guitar whiz. Check out www. youtube.com/user/AchyuthJaigopal Zoe Collier (16) – singer: California-born Zoe took to singing because of her parent’s love for music and has lived on Bali for 11 years. She has been singing ever since she can remember, and has worked with a professional singing coach from Centre Stage School for Contemporary Music for the past three years. Zoe has not only found her genre – doing covers of the likes of Adele, Amy Winehouse and Christina Aguilera – but started to find her own voice too. Her raspy soulful voice cuts

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through with a depth unlikely in such a young singer.

expression, which she has been into for as long as she can remember.

“I would love to make singing my professional career for which I will have to go abroad after I finish school,” she says.

“Being shy, I have always used art as a medium to express myself and to share how I felt growing up with this duality of traditions and rituals,” she says.

Once you hear her sing, you’ll know that Zoe is a talent destined for stardom . . . Tristan Iskandar (17) – skater: Long time Bali resident, Sydneyborn Tristan caught the skate bug at age three from his older brother, Alexander, who was already sponsored by Insight and Volcom at age 14. From his early beginnings and apart from a two - month break following a 12-step kick-foot attempt that landed primo and twisted his ankle, he has spent an average of five hours a day on a deck . . . of which he snaps quite a few. Post his Insight sponsorship in Oz and about 60 snapped decks later Tristan has won five comps including Indonesia’s Motion Boards Street Skate Competition and is in pursuit of a serious skating career – desperately needing a sponsor as he goes through too many decks and tracks for his pocket money to fund. With an innate talent (that runs in the family) and a passion for the art of skating, Tristan is set to hit the comp circuit fulltime once he finishes school. “I love skating, it is what makes me relax, go with the flow and be at one. It’s like a meditation really.” Putri Cardinale (17) – artist: Born in Bali to American and Balinese parents, Putri has been feeling somewhat lost between the cultures with the religious clash of Hinduism and Christianity fuelling much of her artistic

Now, Putri reads Buddhist texts and other religions too – she says that religion makes such a fundamental part of a culture and society, “that’s why I like to explore them”. Her artwork is deep, meaningful and surreal, filled with lucid imagery of hands, bodies, and faces that are deranged, detailed, charismatic and expressive. “I prefer inkpen over pencil as I like working with my mistakes. They make my works interesting and add to the character of the drawing”, she says. Flicking through her work, it quickly becomes apparent that she is a great artist in the making. Pages upon pages filled with imagery of ink and coloured markers blend with photos that have been reworked with ink, written word collages with mixed mediums, self-portraits with hand-drawn patterns and a plethora of symbols that all shed light on the cultural disparity of her heritage and upbringing. A keen observer of people and the world around her, Putri’s works speak loudly of the cross-cultural dilemma – her own and that of others too. Her first big exhibition is set for February 2014 and will display her works from the past two years of intensive projects – most of which were undertaken at Ghandi International School where Putri is in year 11.

ÂŠ2012 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Aloft, Element, Four Points, Le MĂŠridien, Sheraton, St. Regis, The Luxury Collection, W, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

Bali

WELCOMING FRANK RUIDAVET, CULINARY DIRECTOR With great honor, The St. Regis Bali Resort and The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa welcome Frank Ruidavet as Culinary Director of The St. Regis Bali Resort and The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua Bali From New York and London to Maldives and Jordan, Chef Ruidavet brings with him an impressive international career that spans over 35 years, including experience in world renowned Michellin star restaurants. Having previously worked in Bali, Chef Ruidavet returns to the island and will once again guide you through an extraordinary culinary journey.

Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot n2 Po Box 77, Nusa Dua, Bali, Indonesia 80363 stregisbali.com thelagunabali.com

oral pleasures

cold press juices – the nexT big thing in health-conscious living – have arrived in bali, located, paradoxically, beneath seminyak's latest night club - townhouse. danziel carre spoke to mark baker, the man with a plan behind squeeze juice baR. photos: lucky 8.

Hydraulic pressed juice is raw fruit and vegetables in a glass – packed with nutrients.

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oral pleasures

squeeze offers raw food goodies too.

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juice – it absorbs better, you lose weight – just makes your body run a WHOLE lot more efficiently and better. If you go on a five- or seven-day juice fast, you become pretty f^ck!ng crystal clear. When you start to juice with such good quality produce you become more aware of what your putting into your body – you start to cut out crappy and processed things and start to THINK healthier – you start to care.

MR BAKER, what’s your background? I’m English, but lived for 30 years in New York. I was a pro skateboarder before, skating and touring with Alva and the Dogtown guys before ending up in New York. There, I started working as a waiter for a few years, then progressed to doing parties events etc. and then opened up my first club. I then spent 30 years blowing it up – big clubs, small clubs, doing events and parties all over the world. So how’d you transition from the so-called “Godfather” of New York nightlife to selling juice in Bali? I was working and partying very hard for years, it was taking its toll… when I started drinking juice and taking care of myself it completely changed my life in a very positive way. I felt if I had to clean up, so did everyone else! We started a very successful chain of cold-press juice & raw bars called the Juice Press in New York and took it to another level. Now there are 15 of them. Cold-press juicing has become a phenomenon in the west and I wanted to introduce it here after it helped so many people back there . . . I’ve been coming to Bali for 30 years and as we know it’s an amazing and diverse place - you can get your party fix here, your health fix, your spiritual fix … The world is talking again now and there’s good times coming ahead, a lot of good buzz out there about Bali - good music, fun times, a lot of great DJs coming down and of course lots of local talent too. When I moved here in January 2013 and started to build the Townhouse, I felt this was the perfect place – especially with all our friends who party so hard – to introduce an element of health in there. We call it “naughty & nice”.

It is quite an unusual combo, the raw food underneath vice-central… We wanted to balance the excess that takes place at most nightclubs, booze, smoking, etc., with a healthy element right downstairs. If you’re going to do the partying and drink a lot, as most people do on this island, this is the flip-side to that. You can do the booze in the night time , but you can clean up pretty quick in the daytime with a couple of green juices and other raw cold pressed juices. Once you start to juice and feel the amount of energy you have and how good you feel, its very addictive. Of all the health fads and diets out there, why juice? There’s so many messages out there about health and nutrition, it gets confusing. But basically keep your body in an alkaline state, and give your digestive system a break once in a while. When you’re drinking alcohol, eating processed foods, toxins in your body become acidic – which is terrible because all the bad stuff, cancer cells, etc. grow in an acidic environment.

What’s so special about the cold-pressing juice process you use? When people make juice, they normally put everything into a blender. The heat of the blades breaks down the enzymes and oxidation basically takes all the nutrition out – by the time you put that in your mouth, 80 per cent of the nutrition is gone. The cold-press machines just crush all the juices and nutrients out, squeezing every ounce of goodness out of a fruit or vegetable – all you’re getting is pure, unaffected goodness out of everything you’re drinking. If you compare cold-pressing against rotator-blade juicing, its not even on the same planet. Nutritionally, this is probably the best stuff you can put into your body. Do you buy the fruit and vegetables for your juice locally? We try to use all local produce and buy a lot from the farms up in Bedugul, they’ve got some good organic farms up there. We’re trying to keep everything as sustainable as possible – building relationships with the local farmers based on self-sustainability. We’re trying to source as much organic produce as we can – no pesticides or chemicals. And, we wash everything thoroughly with a non-chemical solution, so it sanitises everything and is safe to eat and drink. We also bottle in glass, not plastic, even though its a more complicated process, as I didn’t want to walk down the beach and see Squeeze plastic bottles all over the place or bring any more plastic onto Bali.

What other specialities are on the Squeeze menu besides the juice? In the cafe we have a whole selection of classic "naughty" gourmet items and for Squeeze we keep it all raw or vegan, no dairy. There are smoothies made from nuts, nut oils, coconut milk. We do all-natural dehydrated fruits, grab-and-go sandwiches, maki rolls, crazy selection of flavored nuts, organic popcorn cooked in special coconut oil, probiotics and loads of natural enzymes to help body function, all the assorted little additions – hemp seed oil, spirulina, protein powders, enzymes. And - we do juice fasts and detoxes, and will deliver juices fresh to your house daily. Where do you see things heading for Squeeze? What we aim to do here is follow in the footsteps of the Juice Press – make healthy, organic, and raw juicing and eating simple and fun. There’s a few other places that have asked us if they can carry our juices, and we have other locations for Squeeze that will open early next year – anything that helps people stay healthy is A-plus – and what we’re doing and where we’re going is to the next level…

What eating raw food and drinking cold pressed juice is that it helps turn your body into an alkaline state, and your body is a MUCH healthier place. Drinking cold-pressed

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Cibo in Sayan ubud aims to create a new quality in sustainable restaurants that follows the concept of Slow Food.

oral pleasures

The yak spoke to ideator Carlo Catani about his background in the movement and his plans for bali. Photos: Lucky 8.

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Ciao Carlo. Tell us a little about your background with Slow Food. I started collaborating with Slow Food in 2001 (I was working for a bank at the time) as a teacher of wine tasting, and I was fascinated by philosophy. So as soon as I had the opportunity, in 2003, I quit my job to start the adventure of creating the first University of Gastronomic Science in the world. At the beginning I was the director of the Colorno Campus â€“ very close to Parma, the capital of the Italian food valley â€“ and there, with my collaborators, we created the format of Master's courses in food culture and communication. After two-and-a-half years, I started working as administrative director of the main campus of Pollenzo until 2011. What's the main focus of your work at the moment? Today I am very involved in Italy in a lot of activities, all linked to wine and food. I collaborate with the Enoteca Regionale of Emilia-Romagna, and with a wine guide, Slow Wine. I organise, and am a partner in, a progressive film festival called Cinemadivino, which takes place in the wineries of the region, giving people a chance to taste the products and eat food. This event takes place in eight Italian regions, and in Spain, but I hope to spread it to other European countries, and in the future, to other parts of the world. I also consult for a number of restaurants â€“ organising thematic nights and so forth. Last but not least I continue collaborating with the University of Gastronomic Science teaching wine and cocktail tasting and cocktails, and with other universities and cultural institutes . . . always talking about food and wine.

Cibo. Sustainable Italian cuisine in Ubud.

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oral pleasures "Find time to dedicate to enjoying food," says Carlo Catani.

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If you, like me, think that what you eat and put inside you is more important than time spent in other ways, I am sure you will find time to dedicate to enjoying food.

What's your involvement with Bali? The first time I went to Bali for a holiday I fell in love with the culture and strong tradition of the island. There I met my friend Mario Gierotto, and I explained my idea for a new kind of restaurant. He loved it and now this project is starting with the opening of Cibo in Sayan Ubud. I think Bali is the best place for experimenting with new ideas. The idea is to have a format of Italian fine cuisine with three different kinds on offer: The real Italian dishes (it’s very difficult to find real Italian food abroad) so we want to present it without it sounding like other Italian menus – you will not find tagliolini Alfredo, spaghetti alla Bolognese etc. There will be Italian-style dishes but prepared with raw ingredients that don’t exist in Italy. And finally, we will create gourmet, “O Fiore Mio” pizzas – a new concept made with sourdough and a different quality flour, and with toppings prepared with raw ingredients. Have you always been interested in food and wine? Of course, my interest in food and wine is to consider them in a global context. I think today a modern gastronome has to know, and to respect, all the different kinds of traditions of the world. I’ve tried to visit the most important wine producing countries, and a lot of others with specific gastronomic traditions . . . very different from Italian ones. I remember being young and spending all our money eating in the best restaurants all over Europe (sometimes sleeping in the car). I read somewhere that you believed in the promotion of the idea that we should return to the countryside . . . but is it a practical idea? In my opinion a return to countryside doesn’t mean, necessarily, that we go back in time and forget all the technological innovations . . . it has more to do with an idea of finding again the rhythm of nature. We tend to forget that the modern requires us to be obsessive – rushing sometimes, without leaving time to relax and to experience the real important things of our life.

What does quality mean to you, in the world of food and wine? Quality for me is “organoleptic” because products have to be objectively good – healthy, because if what I eat causes me health problems, it is not just a matter of food quality, but has wider ramifications for the environment as a whole. Yes, it's something overlooked in the general food industry. What went wrong, in your opinion? I want to start by saying that not all that is connected with the food industry went wrong, but there are things that surely did. For example, the introduction of sugared and salted junk food that is so loved by people around the world – but increases the risk of obesity and other diseases like diabetes in populations that have never had these kinds of problems. Another problem is the impression, because of low prices (and low food quality), that food is not a high value commodity. So we sometimes lose good farmers who can’t make sufficient money from producing their high quality goods. What's the best meal you’ve ever eaten? Two different experiences: one in Italy at Combal 0, and the other at the Riviera Restaurant in Guayaquil (Ecuador). The first was a wonderful interpretation of creative cooking done by one of the best chefs in the world, Davide Scabin, that with solid basis in Italian traditional gastronomy – he interprets wonderful dishes. In Riviera I found very good traditional Italian dishes prepared with local products – a wonderful interpretation done in the Italian way. That meal inspired me a lot for our idea of Cibo. And, of course, as a good Italian, the Christmas meal cooked by my mother . . . info@ciboasia.com

How do we make more time to spend eating and enjoying food, in this day and age? I think it is only a problem of value and of organisation. I think, for example, “is it important to spend part of my day (two or three hours?) on a social network, or in front a television, and not preparing food, or spending time selecting products at the market?”

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oral pleasures

It’s seductive and sublime. It’s a treat for young and old alike. It’s . . . gelato, and Sarah Douglas is on a mission to find the best – here's her pick.

Gusto Gusto comes up number-one in reviews from all over the world and although they confine themselves to a mere 18 flavours, tucked away in a tiny gelateria in Umulas, they have a huge fan base. All natural and loaded with attitude, the hand-made ice cream and gelato at Gusto include plenty of out-of-this-world tropical ingredients to try, to share, and to take home. Cones, cups or tubs come filled with crazily good chocolate – which also comes spiced with black pepper, or with added hazelnuts. Or take a walk on the wild side with dragon fruit, or vanilla ginger . . . get fruity with fabulous raspberry gelato, or take a scoop of lemongrass. Delicious coffee goes down a treat as well in this pretty little venue that has loads of personality. The prices here start from just Rp20K for a generous scoop. Tel: 0813 3802 7041 www.gusto-gelateria.com Yak Map. S.1

Barbacoa While not the most obvious choice for an ice cream, take a step out of your comfort zone and head to Barbacoa to try something different. The ice cream sandwich here is a marvel of technique, and perfectly balanced flavours and textures. A smooth vanilla ice cream studded with home made honeycomb crunch, and piled between two whisper-thin sugary wafers is a treat to satisfy adults and children alike. Their latest blast of flavor however comes complete with a little chemistry and theatre in the mix. Flavoured creams blast-frozen with liquid nitrogen at the table, and then served up in home made waffle cones is bound to get the smart set chattering. Smoother than ice cream and in flavours that really have no limit. Expect the unexpected and if the rest of the menu is a guide, this will be fun and fabulous. Tel: 739233, 739232 www.barbacoabali.com Yak Map. U.3

Gelato Secrets There are now three venues so access to the deeply delicious Gelato Secrets is a breeze. In Sanur, Ubud and in Seminyak, Gelato Secrets has a recipe that is bound to appeal. Deep tubs of freshly swirled gelato and ice cream come in so many flavours it is very hard to choose. Happily, the smiling staff is more than willing to let you sample a few before you choose. Starting at just Rp25K per scoop, home made waffle cones can pack in a few flavours for the devoted. They also do holiday flavours like a pumpkin hazelnut for Halloween, and gingerbread for Christmas, which is haunting and biscuity. Herbs and exotic fruits find their way into these recipes as do spices. Mini cones and ice cream pops along with miniature ice cream cakes round off a thoroughly cool menu of treats. Tel: 898 9690 www.gelatosecrets.com

Gourmet café Amidst the weird and the wonderful, we have Gourmet Café which always plays to style rather than fashion. Cool, fresh gelatos that come in flavours we already love have their wild side as well, like the incredible, fuchsia-coloured raspberry. Smooth and wonderful, the flavours mix and mingle beautifully, so choose more than one to get the taste buds tingling. A connoiseur’s favourite here is the wonderfully smooth, and slightly salty, peanut butter. In cones, tubs and take-home containers, you can even dial it up . . . they deliver. Tel: 809 5188, 847 5115 www.balicateringcompany.com

Lello Weekly specials add glitz to this gorgeous gelato bar which rembles a little slice of Italy. Prepare to enjoy weekly specials like the pavlova gelato studded with meringue pieces, or how about The New Yorker – a cream cheese concoction studded with home-made New York cheesecake. The coffee shop/restaurant/bar and gelateria, is the perfect place to take a load off and escape the heat with some really wild flavours and a range of smoothies and milk shakes to boot. Get wild at Lello Lello, opposite Samaya, with perfect recipes for those who like to take their ice cream with panache. Tel: 733815 Yak Map. N.7

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Mulia If we are going to err on the side of the wild, how about this for an icy treat: Shaved flavoured ices atop a mound of fresh fruit. The shaved ice extravaganza at Mulia is something new, different, and instantly refreshing. Lacy shavings of ice make an astounding topping for a variety of fruits to be enjoyed in the deli, in the restaurant, or by the pool. Flavours include mango, lemon, milk tea and coffee, draped over a medley of fresh fruits and jellies and drenched in rich, sweet-flavoured syrups. Mulia has created a statement cooler for Asian tastes and for those who like to sample the exotic. Tel: 3017777 www.themulia.com

get the scoop . . .

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oral pleasures gelato with gusto.

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open secrets.

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oral pleasures

Barbacoa: a meat-lover's dream.

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Barbacoa brings the flavour of South America to Bali. Words: Sarah Douglas Photos: Lucky 8

I'M going to go out on a limb here and say that Barbacoa is a keeper. The 120-seat South American fusion restaurant is new and fresh, the food is fine and the cocktail menu is enough to keep us hanging around, long after we have gleefully consumed their homemade honeycomb ice cream sandwiches. Somehow the locally produced sustainable materials, including a huge area tiled in beautiful hand-made local tiles, has blended perfectly with a South American sensibility, complete with black wrought iron detailing, to create an atmosphere that sells us the best of both. The location is pretty as well. Opposite Sardine, up the road from Metis on Jl Petitengett, Barbacoa enjoys a fabulous view over rice fields at the back where a wide terrace is the perfect spot to sample some of those high-end tequila type drinks before heading into dinner. Without a doubt the highlight here is the wood-fire built beside the kitchen where a classic asado has been created. This involves a whole beast being splayed and cooked by indirect heat for hours and hours. Resulting in the main attraction on this menu, succulent roasted meat with a skin so crisp you can almost hear the crunch. It is a flavourful meat lover’s dream come true. “Originally we set out to do an Argentinean concept restaurant but the availability of fresh, quality produce didn’t lend itself, so we branched out and decided to include a range of classic South American styles that kind of tango together,” says chef/partner and currently General Manager, Adam Dundas-Taylor. Formerly at Jamie Oliver’s Restaurant 15, this guy has the creds. He also worked at Nobu in London, he’s worked for a few stars as well, including Elton John, Kate Moss, the Parker-Bowles family, and ended up heading up his own catering company based in Bondi Beach. His approach to food is simple; it has to be fresh, simple and high quality. We get it. He also has a thing about cocktails and brings the expertise of his partners to call. Mixologist Kieron Prenter is the man behind the cocktail bar and clearly has a great love of top shelf tequila as there is a dedicated tequila terrace upstairs. Margaritas head the list and starring on the menu is their signature chocolate margarita. The wine cellar is another highlight of Barbacoa and the list is growing. The other two partners are Consulting chef, Sean Prenter and fashionable guy about Bali, Peter Zuitton, who all bring something to the table that is fresh and full of personality.

Food though is what restaurants are about and this one has lots to say. Despite being a meat-driven concept, there are some vegetable dishes on the menu that are full of flavor and worthy of a meal unto themselves. Portion sizes here are big and the prices are very reasonable with many dishes under the $10 mark and only two that come out over $20: the asado and the 250gram rib-eye steak. Both are big enough to share. The concept of this menu is a shared table experience so diners can order a sampling and pass them around. Vegetable dishes include the unlikely charred baby carrots served with parsley, lemon and maple vinaigrette. This method is a classic apparently, frankly I had only ever seen a sad demonstration in my own kitchen, while this one is delicious. Fried cauliflower with cumin, chickpeas, pine nuts and raisins is vaguely Indian but we didn’t care and the green beans with anchovy butter, lemon and oregano is still haunting me. Adam is a keen fan of anchovy (perhaps that Jamie Oliver influence?) and though I am not, I have to admit there’s nothing fishy about his dishes. He has some chocolate-anchovy truffles on the dessert menu as well, perhaps a few of those margaritas might lend me some Latino courage to try them. Our feast centred around vegetables and the eight-hour lamb which well and truly lived up to the hype; juicy and falling apart with skin that was so good your skinniest friends would be hoovering it. The signature dish is the suckling pig cooked in the pit which was not on the menu the night we ate at Barbacoa but I will be going back for that. Beside this we were convinced to try another of their signature dishes, charcoal octopus with chorizo and crispy polenta. The dish features big knobs of fresh octopus, charred and then bathing in all those salty juices, I would never have ordered it but I’m glad it arrived. Despite the fact that they gave us half portions, we were already sporting bellies that a Columbian drug lord would be proud of, and then came dessert. It isn’t often that you find a restaurant that does everything well and I will single this out as a fabulous ending. A three-hour pudding turned out to be a rich, smooth baked custard bathed in caramel, while the ice cream sandwich that my guest ordered was perfection without the stick. Two thin wafers surrounded a rich creamy ice cream studded with homemade honeycomb. We’re still talking about it. Barbacoa is the source of the word barbecue and there’s a whole lot of fire happening here, hot food and cool interiors; a beautiful breezy terrace, the tequila terrace upstairs and a large air-conditioned dining room with a central bar, open kitchen, lots of worn leather banquettes and a whole heap of style. We came, we ate everything, we drank in style and we left happy.

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finger food! when all you need is a tiny taste sensation.

Sometimes it’s a quickie, sometimes just a filler, sometimes it’s all you feel like . . . small bites of all descriptions can be found all over Bali. From sublime sushi to bursting-with-goodness mini tacos, from tiny sandwiches to the 15-minute delights . . . food that fits in your fingers satisfies on all sorts of levels. So without any further ado, here are six of our favourites. Mozaic Beach Club No one ever said that small bites have to be humble, and so we enter Mozaic Beach Club to peruse its small bites menu. And joy! What have we here? Foie gras – four different ways. Grab your tiny forks for this one coz it can get messy. All that oozing fatty liver may be banned in countries like Australia but sometimes you just have to have it. Warm, seared fillets of foie gras with lemon and honey are positively sinful; the home-made terrine is cool and smooth. Mind you, this is only the beginning – from land and sea, small bites at Mozaic are the perfect reflection of its signature cuisine. Tiny wagyu burgers will satisfy, while plates of Iberico ham will curb your hunger gracefully. Best enjoyed with a glass of bubbly or a signature cocktail as the ocean breezes ruffle your hair . . . and then opt for pool or dance floor as the feeling takes you. Tel: 473 5796 www.mozaic-beachclub.com Yak Map. J.2 Taco Local MEXICAN is in. Or so it would seem in the Yak hood. We have loads of choices but Taco Local delivers tender small bites that sing with Mexican flavour and are best served with giant margaritas. That sounds about right; small bites, big drinks, you are talking our language here. Choose from the burritos, soft flour tortillas, or crispy tostadas – kind of like a large corn chip loaded up with savoury, spicy meat, cheese, avocado, salad and salsa. They come in vegetarian too? The pick is the pulled pork or the pulled beef. Slow cooked until it is falling apart, mingled with Mexican spices and loaded up with the works. Best of all they

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fit into the small bites category and are best enjoyed with fingers but they are big on flavor. Perfect fit for a night out, not too much and not too little, just enough to get the party started. With a giant margarita you can almost escape for Rp100K, not bad at all. Tel: 797 9900 Yak Map. R.3 www.tacolocal.com Sushimi The little pearls of sweet, tasty morsels go round and round on our favourite train as the little colour-coded plates pile up. Sushi and sashimi is the perfect meal to grab on the go or to enjoy with friends. Sushimi opened in July 2013 and has been packing them in ever since. Sparkling clean and stylish, the dazzling little plates each hold enough sushi or sashimi for any mouthful. Best of all if you’re still hungry, you can keep piling up the plates. Delectable seafood, a small range of hot dishes on the a la carte menu, vegetarian choices all on the train, and in no time at all, food is done and you’re off on your next adventure. Tel: 737 816 Yak Map. T.12 Red carpet They call their chef, Mr Fifteen Minutes, because every fifteen minutes a little bite is sent out to the customers. And it’s free. A brilliant strategy that keeps us all in our seats longer, ordering yet more drinks and singing along to the endless music videos in the funky library. Funny that. Red carpet does have a menu and it’s good, but if your mind is elsewhere, the 15-minute chef keeps topping you up so that you can keep topping up. Think tiny grilled scallops on cauliflower puree; little chicken skewers; bite sized smoked salmon parcels . . . even tiny burgers appear. It’s so good, we keep going back for more! Tel: 737 889 www.redcarpetchampagnebar.com Yak Map. S.8 Salt Tapas at Sentosa Seminyak Luke Mangan is the celebrity chef from Oz who has

spawned an empire with his brand, Salt. Opening earlier this year with a tapas bar and restaurant at Sentosa Seminyak we’ve had a few greats off this menu, although sometimes it suffers from “too much mayonnaise” syndrome, as many tapas do. However the highs are very high indeed and I’ve got my mind and my fingers wrapped around one of those baby lamb cutlets that surely goes down a treat with a high minded G&T from the cocktails-with-flair menu. A little peckishness may follow a swim and therefore it has to be the prawn tacos with big fat, juicy prawns – battered and laid into a soft taco shell that zings with citrusy flavor and creamy sauce. It may seem strange to head to a resort to get small bites but since it is on the hot road to nightlife between Jl. Oberoi and Jl Petitengett, it works. Tel: 737 675 www.sentosaseminyak.com www.lukemangan.com Yak Map. O.6 Biku and Baby Biku Like smartphone users we want it all in one package and when this thought enters your head, Biku is the one-stop shop. Afternoon tea is served from morning ‘til early evening and this is the go to for small bites. The first tray delivers bite-sized savoury pastries and pretty finger sandwiches with cucumber, ham and mustard, and smoked salmon. The next tier brings you to sublime puffy scones with fresh strawberries, strawberry jam and cream. And the crowning glory is tiny little cakes. You get lunch, afternoon tea and dessert, all in one perfect package. Excellent with an antique teapot filled with your favourite brew . . . or upgrade to champagne. Afternoon tea also comes in Asian flavours – similar but different. Baby Biku has now opened in Jl Drupadi and also boats a damn good afternoon tea any time of the day. Tel: 730 3033 Yak Map. S.10

eat drink read lounge

Open 8am-11pm Daily Ph. 0361 8570 888

Jl.Raya Petitenget no.888 www.bikubali.com

Kerobokan Kelod info@bikubali.com

SUN13377Yak1-2P_Layout 1 9/05/12 2:19 PM Page 1

oral pleasures

words: stephanie mee photos: Frederic Doucout

Despite being surrounded by lush landscapes that beg to be explored, so many of us in Bali seem to gravitate towards climate-controlled environs. There seems to be a tendency to equate the outdoors with the wild and primitive; something we need to conquer in small bursts, while the slick modernity of sleek restaurants and villas calls to our more urbane side. But what if you could have both the natural beauty of unspoilt wilderness and the luxury of fine food, exquisite furnishings and exceptional service . . . New and utterly unique to Bali is Dining Within Tent, an exclusive outdoor dining experience that allows you to delve deep into nature and live without walls, yet still indulge in the finer things in life. The experience starts just outside Ubud with a leisurely trek through the jungle that takes you past vistas of terraced rice fields and lofty coconut groves. Upon arrival at the banks of the Ayung River, you are treated to a luxurious bain de fleurs foot bath and massage, followed by an afternoon or evening of authentic Balinese cuisine, cocktails, fine teas and coffees, in spacious air-cooled safari tents decked out with deluxe furnishings. Founded by Dutch designer Anneke van Waesberghe and masterful chef Diana von Cranach, Dining Within Tent presents an environmentally sustainable alternative to traditional modes of fine dining and tourism in Bali. The luxury tents are produced by Escape Nomade, and are made with recyclable materials that include textile panels that can generate solar power, roof features that make it easy to harvest rainwater, and an integrated cooling system that makes air-conditioning obsolete. Not only does Dining Within Tent leave a faint footprint on the landscape with its easily removable and recyclable tents with energy saving features, but Anneke and Diana also strive to give back to the local Balinese community by creating meaningful employment and offering professional training to their staff. Moreover, the dinners give guests a chance to experience Bali in a whole new light. Anneke says: “The reason we do the dinners is to introduce our guests to simplicity as a new luxury. The tents have been designed to introduce an eco-friendly lifestyle and they are an expression of the basic guidelines I wrote in the ‘80s for Design for the Environment for the Environmental Protection Agency. The dinners launch the guests into a luxurious tented environment for a surprising and unexpected experience. The four-course dinners are Diana's healthy take on local flavours, and each course reflects

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the main colours of the temple offerings.” The meal begins with the ‘Red’ appetizer course consisting of a Mountain Salad with delicate ginger flowers and Java rose sambal dressing. Next up is the ‘Green’ course, which includes an aromatic Balinese Herb and Vegetable Soup and Steamed Sesame Greens with vibrant green chilli and pepper condiments, followed by the ‘Yellow’ course of Balinese Slow-cooked Chicken, Turmeric Fish and Prawns, and Pumpkin and Marigold Curry with yellow coconut rice and Balinese pickles. Each course also includes an appropriately hued vodka cocktail. And for the colourful grand finale, a Red Strawberry Sundae with Green Rice Flour Crepe drizzled in palm sugar and topped with Yellow Banana and Jackfruit Ice. Dinner is served inside the main dining tent on tables decorated in linens, fine china, glassware and cutlery, all lit softly by lanterns and candles. From the moment you sit down, you begin to feel as though you’ve stepped back in time when the natural environment and all it’s grandeur were taken for granted; a feeling that is intensified as you dine listening to the wind rustling in the palm trees outside, the gentle bubbling of the river close by, and crickets chirping in the foliage. For those who want to experience this idyllic setting under bright blue skies, the romantic Picnic Lunch is another experience within itself. Also on offer is the Royal High Tea, which begins with a sublime footbath and full body massage in a breezy covered tent pavilion next to the river. Relaxed and refreshed, you retire to the main tent for a divine spread of hors d’oeuvres and sweets complemented by high-quality teas made with local natural ingredients, including the Telaga Oolong, Lemongrass Green and Fruit Paradise. Your day ends with an invigorating yoga or dance session before you make your way back to the temple and depart. Anneke says: “The reception has been amazing because the food and the location are so unique and there is nothing to compare anywhere on the island. It is a little like going to the theatre – you have an idea of what it is but did not expect your jaw to be dropping, your heart to be dancing and your soul to be melting.” For reservations, please email esp2000@indo.net.id or call Anneke van Waesberghe at 0812 384 9924.

eco-luxury in paradise.

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Have you been to Paris recently?

An Authentic Parisian Brasserie in Bali Timeless French Regional Cuisine More Than 200 Wines to Discover and a Daily Choice of 16 By The Glass Air Conditioning Included! Jl. Raya Seminyak NÂ°16A Seminyak 80361, Bali, Indonesia

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10 YEARS. 40 MAGAZINES. 3,000 CONTRIBUTORS. OVER 4,500 ADVERTISEMENTS. 50,000 YAK GUESTS WINED & DINED. 5,000.000 WORDS COMMITTED TO PRINT. one LUXURY PLAYGROUND. one YAK.

Now that we're 10 years old we thought it was time we heard from you.

Scan and email to: info@ theyakmag.com Fax to: +62 361 766539 Or go online at www.theyakmag.com fill in the form and win (if you're feeling lucky!): • 4 nights at the four seasons bali. • 2 nights cruising on alexa, the luxury phinisi operated by talika oazia • IDR5mil in F&B at Charlie, Petitenget • We've also got 10 bottles of chivas and 10 bottles of grey goose to give away!

TO celebrate our 10th anniversary The Yak is rolling up its sleeves and getting down to finding out what our readership thinks of the magazine so we can make it even more relevant, hipper and more fantastic than it already is. Your opinion and feedback is very important to us and we want to get to know you better so please take a few minutes (preferably over a glass of bubbles) to scribble your thoughts on the attached survey questionnaire and send it back to us via snail mail, fax or scan and email to us on the contact details below. Naturally we wouldn’t ask you for your time without providing some incentive, so we’ve had a whip round and come up with a bundle of goodies including: • 4 nights for two people at The Four Seasons (Jimbaran or Ubud) • 2 nights for two people on the luxurious Alexa Oazia yacht • 5 x 1 million Rupiah vouchers for a night out at Charlie •10 bottles of Grey Goose •10 bottles of Chivas Regal Send your responses in no later than the 31st January 2014 to stand a chance to bag the freebies or jump online to theyakmag.com and give us your thoughts. Don’t worry, your answers and information will not be shared with any other group and will be considered confidential. The Publishers decision on prize allocation is final and subject to availability from the supplier. Winners will be contacted by email and announced in the upcoming March/April/May edition of The Yak. Send in your feedback to: The Yak Magazine readership Survey 2014 Komp. Simpang Siur Square Jl. Setia Budi Blok E4. Kuta Poleng Bali 80361 Email: info@theyakmag.com Fax to: +62 361 766539 Or online at www.theyakmag.com

1. When did you first pick up a copy of The Yak magazine? _________________________________________________________ 2. What do you like about The Yak? O Photography O Adverts O Print/Paper Quality O Design and Layout O Yak Directory O Yak Map O Attitude O Fashion O People Profiles O General Features Other (please specify) __________________________________________________________ 3. Which adverts catch your eye? _________________________________________________________ 4. Did you take The Yak home with you? O Yes O No 5. Do you keep back copies? O Yes O No From when? _________________________________________________________ 6. How long do you spend reading the magazine? __________________________________________________________ 7. How would you define The Yak as a publication? O Independent O Luxurious O Quirky O Representative of Bali Style O Informative O Different O International O Surprising Other (please specify) __________________________________________________________ 8. Have you ever attended The Yak Awards? O Yes O No O More than once

9. Have you ever made purchases based on an advert or article you have seen in The Yak? O Yes O No 10. At what email address would you like to be contacted? __________________________________________________________ 11. Do you wish to receive email information about goods, services & privileges related to The Yak? O Yes O No 12. What is your nationality? __________________________________________________________ 13. What is your age? O 18 to 24 O 25 to 34 O 35 to 44 O 45 to 54 O 55 to 64 O 65 to 74 O 75 or older 14. What is your gender? O Female O Male 15. Are you married or single? O Married O Single __________________________________________________________ 16. Do you live in Bali? O Yes O No 17. Where do you live on the island? __________________________________________________________ 18. Do you own, lease or rent your accommodation here? O Own O Lease O Rent 19. What business are you in? __________________________________________________________

Scan and email to: info@theyakmag.com Fax to: +62 361 766539 Or go online at www.theyakmag.com

20. What is your income per year? O Less than $20,000 O $20,000 to $34,999 O $35,000 to $49,999 O $50,000 to $74,999 O $75,000 to $99,999 O $100,000 to $149,999 O $150,000 to $199,999 O $200,000 or more

__________________________________________________________

21. How many times per week do you go out to bars or restaurants in Bali? O 1 O 2 O 3 O 4 O 5 O 6 O 7

__________________________________________________________

22. What's the most you generally spend on eating and drinking per month O Rp1mil - Rp5 mil O Rp5mil- Rp9 mil O Rp10mil and above 23. How often per month do you buy clothes/accessories or furniture in Bali? O 1 to 3 O 4 to 6 O More than 6 24. How often per month do you visit a spa or salon in Bali? O 1 to 3 O 4 to 6 O More than 6 25. Do you own O A car O A motorbike O A boat O Land

FOR VISITORS TO BALI 26. In what country do you live?

27. Are you visiting Bali on holiday or business? O Holiday O Business O Other (please specify) 28. How long do you plan to stay?

29. How many times a year do you visit Bali? O 1-2 O 3-5 O More than 5 30. Where did you stay on this trip? __________________________________________________________ 31. Which airline did you fly? Which class? __________________________________________________________ 32. What were the three biggest purchases you made while you were here? O 1 O 2 O 3 33. Which restaurants/clubs/bars did you visit? __________________________________________________________ 34. Which was/is your favourite? __________________________________________________________ 35. What other attractions did you visit while you were here? __________________________________________________________ 36. Are you interested in land/property investment in Bali/Lombok/ Indonesia? O Yes O No

Faces, friends and a whole lot of fun IMAGES by ROBERT

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crowded house.

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yak awards clockwise from top: the scene at lv8; jim larkin & backup; ed & tina.

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clockwise from top: the boss; soul sisters; and a throng of revelers.

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yak awards

the glitterati on arrival. Massive Motown thanks go out to Vision 1, ProMotion Events, Mango Vision, and Revolta who kept the event production rolling whilst Bali High launched the Yak Drone that was the spy-eye in the sky for the night.

The ninth Annual Yak Awards rocked the kasbah on the 27th of September at the lavish, upper-deck beachfront of Vue at LV8 Resort on Berawa Beach. With a truly funked-up theme of “More Than Just Motown“, it was an evening of vibes, scribes and dusty 45s, with music, awards and free flowing canapés and cocktails for the 700plus crowd of Bali scenesters, industry bigwigs and international jet-set fashionistas. Yak co-founder Sophie Digby said, “We love the island and her people, we love the lifestyle and it’s a privilege to bring it all together in one evening. Industry divas need to be recognised and it’s thanks to all our sponsors, advertisers and readers that we get to do it every year with so much support from all … we get to dress up and its so much fun.” In 2013 the canapés surpassed even those of the 2012 awards, with a veritable feast of gourmand mouth-popping tapas prepared by world-class chefs from the kitchens of: Anantara Uluwatu, Ayana Resort, Charlie Bar & Restaurant, Gelato Secrets, Ku De Ta, La Finca, L Hotel, Lifestyle Retreats, LV8, Merah Putih, Mozaic Ubud and Beach, Motel Mexicola, Oazia, The Oberoi, POD Chocolate, Rimba, Resort, Sardine, Teatro Gastroteque, The Mulia and Wah Restaurant amongst others. Spearheaded by Louise Roederer, Kim Crawford, Sagatiga, Ciroc, Kettel 1 and Padrón, the libations also included Berringer, Plaga, Heineken and Smirnoff. What was noted was the lack of free-flow water! Well lubricated, the crowd was left in awe by Jim Larkin and his band, who took to the stage with his soulful spin on the classic Detroit sound. International DJs Gus Till and Cozi from Zen Lemonade spun the evening out in style. Bloomz lent a colourful touch to the floral arrangements, whilst Christina Iskandar from Design Dope kept the cameramen busy on the red carpet bagging interviews with

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As always the highlight of the event was the recognition of those that truly exceed, and the Yak Awards took centre-stage with more than 6,000 global Yak fans having voted online for their most-loved nominees, shortlisted by a panel of Yak devotees and associates a.k.a Le Comité And the winners were . . . 1). BEST NEWCOMER: Merah Putih, Petitenget 2). BEST RETAIL SPACE: Beachwalk/Satu 3). BEST CHEF: Ben Cross, Ku De Ta/Mejekawi 4). BEST SUNSET VENUE: El Kabron, Bingin 5). BEST RESTAURANT: Sarong, Petitienget 6). BEST WINELIST: Winehouse, Kerobokan 7). BEST DJ: Daniel Ka, Ku De Ta 8). YAK WOMAN OF THE YEAR: Sinta Maroe, Rainbow Community 9). YAK MAN OF THE YEAR: Tah Riq, Inspirational Activist 10). BEST COMMUNITY SERVICES: Bali Kids Foundation, Margaret Barry 11). BEST BAR: Charlie Bar and Kitchen – Petitenget 12). BEST VILLA: Luna2 – Seminyak 13). BEST SPA: Cocoon Medical Spa 14). BEST FASHION LABEL: Farah Khan 15). BEST JEWELRY DESIGN: Jemme, Luke Stockley 16). BEST RESORT: The Oberoi Bali – Seminyak 17). BEST AD CAMPAIGN: Plaga Wine - Indowines 18). BEST EVENT: Bikini Tribal Party, Ku De Ta 19). OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT AWARD: Natalia Perry, Safechildhoods Foundation Outstanding yet again! See you in 2014 for the next chapter. In the meantime may The Yak be with you…

A whole lotta love at The Yak Awards.

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alila: it's Sanskrit for â€˜surpriseâ€™. and a name we've come to love. words BY susan hu.

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IN a place like Bali where hotels are a dime a dozen, it takes something truly unique to break the mould. While some hotels and brands stick to the tried and true, the expected and predictable, others think outside the box and aim to offer something that is innovative and inspired, surprising and refreshing. Such is the case with Alila Hotels and Resorts. In fact, the name Alila itself comes from the Sanskrit word for ‘surprise’. From their not so humble beginnings with Alila Jakarta to the exquisitely designed Alila Uluwatu Villas, the tranquillity and seclusion of Alila Ubud and Soori the once-in-a-lifetime journeys offered on the Alila Purnama live-aboard ship, the brand has always aimed to offer guests unrivalled destination experiences and superb hospitality in stylish, eco-friendly environments that integrate culture, cuisine, adventure and wellness. Today you can find a remarkably diverse range of unique Alila properties spread across the Asian region, including modern urban retreats designed with discerning business travellers in mind like the Kemang Icon by Alila and Alila Bangalore; ultra-luxurious villas set in spectacular locations like the Alila Villas Soori and Alila Villas Uluwatu; and the Lifestyle Collection for those looking for sophistication, serenity and the opportunity to immerse yourself in local culture and tradition.

Unlike other brands launched by a sole visionary entrepreneur, Alila grew through collaboration and partnerships with a group of passionate people who had proven experience in both development and management of unique lifestyle properties in Indonesia. Drawing on this knowledge, they forged a brand that would not only offer incredible guest experiences, but also maintain an unwavering commitment to sustainable operating standards. From the beginning, Alila has focused on building properties that are defined by the latest developments in design and architecture, yet stay true to their holistic environmental vision. This includes participating with EarthCheck, the world’s leading sustainable environmental benchmarking and certification programme. In fact, Alila Villas Uluwatu was the first resort on Bali to meet all of EarthCheck’s rigorous standards. Take for example Alila Villas Soori, a luxurious beachfront resort that blends subtly into the rippling rice paddies and black volcanic sands of west Bali’s coastline. The resort was designed using sensitive site planning, local building materials and native landscaping to integrate the natural, physical and cultural elements of the environment. These green initiatives have earned the resort the Green Good Design Award 2012 from the European Centre for Architecture Art Design and Urban Studies and The Chicago Athenaeum.

Left and below: LIfe and times at Alila Villas Soori.

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Sean Brennan, the Regional vice president of Southeast Asia for Alila says, “All Alila properties subscribe to EarthCheck operating platforms, and our properties also regularly support or initiate projects in conservation and localisation to improve the quality of life in the local communities. This includes employing local people who live in the surrounding areas, developing the local workforce through skills training, using products and services from local suppliers, as well as educating our guests on local culture and tradition.” Cuisine is also an integral part of the Alila experience, as each of the Alila restaurants sources fresh local and seasonal ingredients to prepare authentic traditional dishes and creative modern fare. Whether you are imbibing cocktails prepared with house-made vodka infusions, araks and syrups at the Plantation Restaurant at Alila Ubud or preparing your own traditional Balinese Megibung to share with friends and family at the Alila Manggis Cooking School, you can be sure that you are getting a true taste of your destination. Fresh natural ingredients also come into play at Spa Alila, where experienced therapists draw on age-old beauty recipes to create curative products are made up of indigenous plants, herbs, fruits and spices. When combined with ancient Asian healing techniques like massage, reflexology, body scrubs and wraps, and warm, genuine care, the results are highly effective healing therapies that promote cleansing, rejuvenation and total physical and mental relaxation. As if stunning locations, sustainability and superior spa services and products weren’t enough to draw in the masses, Alila Hotels and Resorts also aims to provide guests with spiritual and emotional memories gained through the Alila Experiences and Journeys by Alila. These unique excursions and activities allow guests to interact with the local community, connect to the social rhythms of the villages and towns and discover more about the people, history, and environment of the destination. For example, guests at Alila Villas Uluwatu can partake in the one-day Journey of Enlightenment for privileged access to five of the holiest temples on Bali’s south coast to join the temple priests in prayer. Those staying at Alila Villas Soori can embark on the Kopi Luwak Voyage in the Jatiluwih area to learn how the famous Kopi Luwak is made and savour delicacies made with some of the world’s finest coffee. Alila Manggis and Alila Ubud guests can also choose from a variety of experiences including volcano trekking, deep-sea fishing, Balinese cooking classes and countryside tours. Perhaps the most sought-after Alila experience of them all is on the Alila Purnama, an ultra-modern 46-metre live-aboard boat handcrafted in the traditional style of Phinisi sailing ships. With three spacious decks that include five ensuite bedrooms decked out in teak furniture and Indonesian artworks, huge windows that provide 180-degree views of the

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ever-changing coastline, a dedicated PADI dive centre, spa therapist and comfortable dining and lounge areas, this is the perfect mix of adventure, relaxation and luxury. Voyages on the Alila Purnama include expeditions to the Komodo Islands, Ambon and Raja Ampat. “Alila's success hinges on giving our guests a sense of belonging, pampering them with thoughtful service and offering wholesome culinary delights and surprising creature comforts,” says Sean. “It's the luxury of indulgence in private space and quiet moments. We want to entice and inspire our guests to explore, rejuvenate and indulge in a refreshing and enriching holiday.” There is no doubt that this formula is a winning combination as Alila consistently continues to win coveted awards for each of their properties in Bali and abroad. Moreover, the company has a slew of exciting plans and projects in the works. In 2014, the much-anticipated Alila Seminyak will open its doors along a pristine stretch of beach on Bali’s southwest coast. Designed as a secret garden, the tropical retreat will feature 240 elegant rooms and a wealth of facilities that will create a calm and restful oasis within the cosmopolitan buzz of stylish Seminyak. Alila Seminyak will also be one of just a few resorts in Bali that is designed and built to surpass the rigorous EarthCheck standards. The following year, Alila Villas Bintan is set to open on the small island of Bintan in the Riau Archipelago. The hillside resort will spill down onto white sandy beaches, and in typical Alila fashion, will be designed and constructed to EarthCheck standards. The luxurious 52-villa boutique hotel will also include residences for sale, a museum, spa, gallery, retail and dining space. The focus here will be on celebrating Asia’s rich arts and cultural heritage, superb hospitality and contemporary lifestyle. “Indeed, every Alila hotel is surprisingly different,” says Sean. “They all have a strong architectural focus in amazing locations and are often dramatic in their individual character and style. It is our hope that our guests get to discover more of the destination through Alila.” With this in mind, you can be sure that Alila will continue to surprise us and push the envelope with resort destinations where expecting the unexpected is their tried and true.

Clockwise from top left: satay luxe at Alila ubud; lazy days at Manggis; green views at alila Ubud; on the open seas in alila Purnama; styling at alila villas Uluwatu.

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venting in a villa katie truman seeks the sweet in suites AT THE LEGIAN BALI.

A Seminyak icon since 1996, five-star deluxe The Legian Bali and its 67 oceanfacing Suites plus The Beach House offers an ultra-plush sanctuary in manicured gardens beside a prime section of Seminyak Beach.

crisp linen duvets in 300-thread count) and latest gadgetry, including Samsung Smart LED TV, Nespresso coffee machine and Bose Lifestyle entertainment sound system with iPod docks.

Affiliated with Leading Hotels of The World, this boutique beachfront gem exudes classically elegant, modern contemporary design infused with Balinese aesthetics. Guests can expect GHM brand levels of excellence and world-class facilities, including award-winning The Restaurant and The Spa and three-tiered infinity pool. All this, plus direct access to a fine surfing beach and short totter from Seminyak’s impossibly hip nightspots, shops and eateries.

Stacked atop each other and centrally positioned in the main wing, three two-bedroom suites are exclusively accessed by private elevator. Spacious and graciouslystyled living rooms extend to a generous-sized private terrace or balcony overlooking Seminyak’s crashing surf through coconut palms: a private perch to enjoy sunsets and welcome bottle of sparkling wine and canapés that greets all Specialty Suite guests on arrival.

All accommodation is top-notch and recently undergone superior upgrades, but for those seeking serious extra space, impeccable personalized service and indulgent privileges, The Legian Bali presents five exclusive “Specialty Suites.”

On the first level, Legian Suite (364sqm) is the hotel’s largest suite with the biggest terrace, a 100-square metre playground with two cabanas for private entertaining and chilling; the swell-elegant Seminyak Suite (274sqm), rests on the second level and aptly-named Sunset Suite (274sqm) on the top level comes sun-filled, ultraprivate and of course, offers the most supreme sunset views.

Each with its own character, sophisticated interiors are exquisitely furnished and decorated. Balinese artisanal flourishes, striking art works and antique pieces fuse with canopied King-size beds (lavished with PLOH white goose down pillows and

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Across on the eastern fringes of the beachfront lawns, camouflaged behind co-

the luxury of ghm living.

conut palms and stone walls, lies the sublime The Beach House: a three-bedroom, 800-square metre garden villa that bears The Legian’s stylish “private residence” concept, but maintains its own identity as a thatched roof island-style home crafted in teak wood. Supplying all VIP discerning standards, but with flip-flop informality, The Beach House is the ultimate private sandbox for high-flyers and celebs, starting with the 16m infinity pool flanked by daybed pavilions and instant beach access via a private sliding gate.

the road from the hotel. Eleven exclusive pool villas studded across a leafy private compound offers guests the ultimate in privacy, but positioned in Seminyak central with access to The Legian Bali facilities. The superstar here is the Three-Bedroom Villa (739sqm), a palatial residence seconded behind high walls. With tropical gardens, 12-metre lap pool and three lavish bedrooms, this utterly classy villa is de rigueur for families or friends seeking informal downtime and entertaining (partial to the odd garden barbecue) but within a luxurious vacation pad.

Glass-folding doors encasing the chic, living-dining pavilion means you can literally roll into the pool after lunch. Upstairs, the gorgeous master bedroom comes rusticcharged with soaring natural-fibre ceiling, teak wood interiors and indigenous batiks, albeit with hi-tech modern comforts. A sexy open-plan bathroom concept is highlighted with stand-alone terrazzo bathtub, while ocean views are enjoyed from the canopied bed facing seawards, or on the expansive teak wood terrace. Two smaller, log cabin-style bedrooms are also supplied. The Beach House also morphs to an exclusive party spot, serviced by a fully-equipped kitchen and private chef.

Then there’s this: all Specialty Suites guests are entitled to Exclusive Benefits (this is The Legian Bali, after all), complimentary privileges starting with IPad- WiFi service in private car airport transfers, through to bespoke 24-hour butler service (trained by consultants from The Guild of Professional English Butlers), mini-bar items including premium alcoholic tipples and daily breakfast, afternoon tea and sunset cocktails and canapés and much more. Not to mention, unlimited access to The Legian Bali’s superb facilities and services. If that’s not La Dolce Vita, we don’t know what is!

An even more secluded sanctuary is found at The Club at The Legian Bali, across

www.GHMhotels.com

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new on the block

susan hu heads out to the new ayana property, rimba, to get the good oil on one of bali's best lifestyle resorts.

When a prestigious, ultra-luxe hotel like the Ayana announces that it will be opening an additional resort that aims to offer the same sublime service but with a different contemporary, chic and elegant ambiance, ears perk up. After all, this is the Ayana we’re talking about – home of the world famous Rock Bar, Spa on the Rocks, lavish restaurants and glamorous private pool villas. And so it was with much anticipation that Rimba Jimbaran Bali was finally unveiled at the grand opening on November 1st. Set on eight hectares of forested land within the Ayana property, Rimba’s 282 rooms and unique facilities expand on Ayana’s 368 rooms and villas with oceanfront setting. Despite being another sophisticated five-star property managed by the Capella Hotel Group, Rimba aims to offer a more relaxed vibe and a fresh, modern and innovative setting. Sustainable local materials highlight the design and the property includes a hectare of water bodies including six swimming pools, world-class dining concepts and spectacular sunset views. Rudy Suliawan, the owner of Ayana and Rimba, says: “We started building in October last year, so what you see right now was achieved within a year. That makes Rimba one of the fastest hotels built anywhere in the world. Rimba was built to complement what we already have at Ayana, to provide a different product and a different experience for guests. It truly is the best of both worlds.” The name Rimba means “forest” in Bahasa Indonesia, and the moniker is fitting considering the resort is surrounded by lush tropical gardens and was planned with nature and sustainability in mind. Recycled wood is prevalent throughout the property along with tranquil water features, skylights, native trees and organic fruit, vegetable and herb gardens. Combined with clean contemporary lines, luminous glass walls and plenty of plush private lounge areas embellished with oversized cushions, this is eco-luxury living at its finest. Each of the rooms and suites at Rimba offers views over the forest and gardens from huge glass windows and large, furnished balconies where you can take in the cool breezes and vivid sunsets over Jimbaran Bay. The decor is vibrant and modern, with unique artworks made from driftwood that was hand-collected from the beaches of West Bali and crafted by local artisans. In addition, the rooms contain huge closets, striking bathrooms with large showers and soaking tubs, writing desks and flat screen TVs. Amenities include aromatherapy sets, fine teas and coffee and luxurious spa products. Dining at Rimba is another experience in itself, as the To’ge all-day restaurant and gourmet bakery offers a spacious and bright air-conditioned space with natural light filtering in from underwater skylights that rest in the tranquil lobby pool above, a large open kitchen and glass-walled bakery in the centre of the room. Singaporean head chef, Jusman So, has crafted an incredibly vibrant and varied menu at To’ge, with dishes inspired by the street-food culture of Asia, including noodles and fresh salads, Thai and Indian curries, and Indonesian village

favourites. There are also Western classics like burgers, pastas, pizzas and the superlative 120-day Australian grain-fed beef tenderloin steaks. Many of the ingredients used in the dishes come from the organic gardens on site, the Jimbaran fish market, and Ayana’s farm located in the village of Bon in central Bali. Rimba also houses the Ah-Yat Abalone Seafood restaurant, which is the first of its kind in Bali and the biggest Chinese restaurant in Indonesia. The old-world Chinese design here centres around an indoor courtyard garden with bubbling water features and stunning built-in tanks that hold over 100 types of fresh, live fish and seafood. Take your pick from the tanks and the chefs will grill, steam, barbecue, or fry it to your liking, and serve it with your choice of sauces and sides. Besides impossibly fresh seafood, Ah-Yat is renowned for its authentic Chinese dishes including the exquisite abalone and Hong Kong-style Dim Sum. Another impressive feature of Rimba is the Unique rooftop bar, which looks out over the glittering swimming pools and green grounds of the resort and is the perfect vantage point for watching the sun sink over the Uluwatu hills and the Indian Ocean. True to its name, the space boasts a one-of-a-kind bar made from recycled bottles and local marble, a central swimming pool surrounded by oversized lounges and sofa beds, and plenty of cosy corners for intimate conversations over handcrafted cocktails, fine wines and light bites from the grazing menu. Spectacular settings, first-class rooms and exquisite cuisine aside, what really sets Rimba apart from the crowd is their commitment to sustainable design and preserving the natural surroundings of the area. Environmentally responsible initiatives here include the use of recycled materials like the unique wooden slats in the lobby walls that were sourced from old Sulawesi boats, glass walls that maximise natural light, energy-saving air conditioners, rainwater harvesting system and water recycling plant. In addition, Rimba has already planted more than 50,000 trees around the island. Rimba’s Project Director, Wayan Widhiada, says: “Five years ago, when the seeds were planted for the idea of a new hotel at Ayana, our farmers planted 40,000 fast-growing albesia ‘silk’ trees at Ayana’s farm in central Bali. Now, some of those trees have been used at Rimba, and we have replanted at the farm to replace them as part of our commitment to a greener Bali. In addition, we have planted 10,000 trees around Rimba’s grounds to help further offset our carbon footprint.” Clearly no attention to detail was spared in the creation of Rimba’s unique forest ambiance, which acts as a captivating complement to the unrivalled oceanfront setting of Ayana. As an added bonus the resorts are linked by scenic jogging trails and a shuttle bus service, which means that guests of Ayana and Rimba can explore all of the fine facilities and alluring settings that both unique hotels have to offer for an exclusive luxury resort experience that really does provide the best of both worlds.

Karang Mas Estate, Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera Jimbaran, tel: 0361 846 8468 www.rimbajimbaran.com

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SPAS KATIE TRUMAN BURNISHES THE BODY WITH THE LATEST IN GOLD SPA TREATMENTS.

james KNOWS THE VALUE OF GOLD.

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It’s not just Olympic swimmer Michael Phelps, the lads from The Italian Job, ancient Aztecs, Mumbai investors and Goldfinger who are obsessed with gold. Now it is savvy ladies of the “mature variety” seeking the latest musthave beauty treatments hitting these shores – deluxe 24-karat gold facials. It may well be the hot new treatment offered in a number of elite salons worldwide, but magic mineral gold is hardly a new beauty fad. Gold has been revered throughout history for its therapeutic, beautifying, revitalising and anti-ageing properties; its ability to conduct energy made it the perfect tool for strengthening the skin and slowing down the effects of ageing. Five thousand years ago ancient Egyptians were savvy to this precious metal as therapy for the skin, and Queen Cleopatra, so legend has it, slept in a pure gold face mask every night, believing it the secret to her flawless skin and natural luminosity. Fast forward to the 21st century and gold’s salon benefits are rediscovered and resurrected: the ultimate in luxurious beautification but as a non-invasive skin rejuvenating treatment. All That Glitters Gold treatments in Bali are still in their infancy and just a couple of salons and clinics with expertise in the process offer them. But as word spreads of this original “Golden Wonder”, expect more to stick it on their menus. This includes recently opened Gold Dust Beauty Lounge, a cute salon-lounge on Canggu beach road. The furniture, décor and staff uniforms in this elegantly Euro-styled salon come gold-dust-hued. The specialty here is the 24-karat Gold Leaf Facial, Gold Collagen Facial and Gold Eye Mask, using 100 per cent natural 24-karat gold products by Australian Marina Ambrosia – tying in with Gold Dust Beauty Lounge philosophy of pure, natural products. Signature treatment is the luxurious 24k Gold Leaf Facial (Rp. 1.2m). This gives a jolly good deep cleanse, exfoliation and steam suitable for all skin types, and getting rid of all those nasty dead skin cells and impurities to maximise the gold procedure. Treatment rooms erring on the “cozy” and no-frills (contrasting with the deep-pile rugs and glass chandeliers of the chic main lounge) almost belie the luxurious treatment: wafer-thin sheets of high-grade 24k gold leaf hand-applied to serum slathered over the face. While the gold works its magic, the therapist spoils further with a scalp, hand, and foot massage. After all products and salves have been removed and cleansed, the promise of “luminous, radiant skin” is revealed – there’s a definite tightening and visual freshness of the skin. A more technical approach is offered at Cocoon Medical Spa, also opened

this year and Australian-backed. Arguably Bali’s premier international holistic cosmetic and wellness spa, Cocoon offers the latest innovations in non-invasive medical skin treatments, including anti-ageing, cosmetic and wellness, but with a more long-term, holistic approach. Beauty packages are specifically designed for longer lasting visible results. Paying homage to that Egyptian queen, Cleopatra 24-karat Gold Facials (from RP 1m), are a series of 24k gold and collagen facial package combos, designed to “improve skin elasticity and blood circulation, reverse cell damage, reduce wrinkles, increase hydration and natural collagen regeneration in the deeper skin levels, and long-term skin quality boost”. Cocoon might be a medical spa but treatments take place in a surreal tropical rainforest wonderland and individual pod-like chambers. The Diamond Microdermabrasion – an advanced technique equipped (of course) with a diamond encrusted wand, literally vacuums dead skin cells off the face and increases blood flow, followed by LED Red Light therapy: both out-there therapies help skin stimulation and boost natural collagen levels. Skin is then primed for the intensely nourishing 24k Gold and Collagen Mask, left on for 20 minutes. A 24k Gold Flake Hyaluronic Acid Serum, followed by 24k gold-flake moisturiser is subsequently applied – all helping stimulate natural collagen production and reducing wrinkles. For both gold treatments, note to self: don’t run out of the salon with the gold concoction still on thinking you have a goldmine on your face – you don’t. Second, bring a camera for the ultimate selfie. Thirdly, make sure you time this for party season and that big important date night. Liquid Gold If you’re now rather partial to “golden moments” and the high-life, good news – you can even imbibe the stuff: pure gold flake cocktails, if you hot - foot it to Oazia Spavodka Lobster Bar, in Kerobokan. This ultra-decadent, sophisticated lounge bar (with new adjoining Oazia Courtyard Grill) is noted for its sexy gourmet food such as lobsters, oysters, caviar and white truffles. So you could almost expect Oazia’s specially designed mixologist cocktails to contain 24k gold flakes and Russian Vodka. Choose from Gold and Star fruit Flirt (star fruit, tarragon and lime), Gold and Spice Trader (pear, lime, cinnamon and nutmeg), and Gold in the Tropics (mangosteen, chili and lime). Decadent, yes, but not costing a king’s ransom. www.golddustbali.com www.cocoonmedicalspa.com www.oaziaspavodka.com

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BALI MAY BE ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADING SPA DESTINATIONS BUT IT HARDLY RESTS ON ITS LAURELS. WITH STIFF COMPETITION BOTH ON THE ISLAND AND REGIONALLY, OUR ISLAND’S PREMIER SPAS CONTINUALLY EMBRACE NEW GLOBAL SPA TRENDS AND CONCEPTS, WITH INCREASED EMPHASIS ON ALL-ROUND HOLISTIC AND WELLNESS – CATERING TO THOSE WHO NEED BALANCE AND THERAPIES . . . BUT STILL LOVE TO PARTY. by katie truman.

Karma Spa still excites wonder . . . and promotes rejuvenation.

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above: Heavenly Spa by Westin. below: Spa at The Legian Bali.

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this small but bijou seaside sanctuary, exuding the same understated elegance and refined GHM-brand luxury as elsewhere in The Legian Bali. Spa treatment suites have also been renovated – book one of four self-contained thatched pavilions in the spa garden compound surrounded by carp ponds. Each of the two singles’ and two couples’ suites focus on privacy and exclusive facilities, thoughtfully designed in three linked sections . . . treatment beds looking out to sea; grooming area with private toilet and shower/steam cubicle; and semi-open sunken terrace with ample bath tub. Standouts cover hi-tech hydraulic beds, heated blankets inducing good blood circulation and personal safety deposit box. Even disposable panties come in three options. HOLISTIC GLAM Award-winning Karma Spa, part of chic all-villa Karma Kandara Resort in Uluwatu, is well regarded for its sublime and curative spa experiences that nourish, heal and nurture. However, for 2014, the wellness menu gets expanded and diversified. “We now offer half-day to three-day retreats and programmes centred around personalised improvement of fitness and energy levels, detox and relaxation, an entire Traditional Chinese Medicine menu, all-organic wellness energy cuisine menu, and juiceologist workshops facilitated by the creator of Purelosophy Energy Drinks,” says Judy Chapman – Karma Resorts Wellness-Spa Curator. “It’s all about s-l-o-w-i-n-g down, even in massage delivery, combating the fast BlackBerry mind-set. Karma’s fitness menu now includes slow-movement modalities like yoga therapy, while Wonderlust experiences cover beachside Full Moon Yoga.” Karma Spa also champions Holistic Glam, “where pleasure is part of the cure”, and introduces Cocoon Medical Spa – a pop-up medical spa-style concept offering guests LED facials to nutritional vitamin infusions, as well as packages like Karma Beauty. The more diva-inclined should try just-launched Glam Spa Day Out: Spa and Sushi. Karma Spa’s topnotch facilities are built along limestone cliff-tops – 100 metres above emerald-hued water and a dazzling white sand cove. On the centrepiece open-air ledge, start with a half-hour session in the glass-walled Infrared Detox Sauna, which provides outstanding health-benefits, before a sky-high soak in the therapeutic, cliff-hanging, Himalayan Crystal Salt Water Regeneration Pool. Within one of two thatched treatment shacks, melt away for 75 minutes with the new Karma Rhythm Massage, encompassing full-body acupressure-style therapy, delivered with slow strokes, thick organic indigenous oils and ocean breezes. Deeply rested, waft over to the open-air spa lounge for a Shellac mani or pedi – the ultimate high-gloss, long-lasting and bullet-proof polish. A deliscious Sushi Oishi Plate Lunch awaits at world-class restaurant, Di Mare, spectacularly suspended above the cliffs, before taking the inclinator down to Karma’s private beach and rebranded Karma Beach Bali (previously Nammos Beach Club). Here you have free access to a fabulous afternoon of kayaking, snorkelling and sunning in cabanas.

Some things haven’t changed though. The spa menu is still the same excellent Balinese healing traditions and innovative wellness therapies, and long-serving therapists come highly skilled in massage technique and intuitive to guests' needs. Products include UK’s REN and ILA – a fantastic, pure, natural organic and sustainable spa product, with products such as Moroccan Argan oil and Himalayan crystal salts, and Australian sourced organic essential oils. The signature two-hour Bali Oriental Ritual reconnects with Balinese spa traditions, with an Aromatherapy Foot Polish and Ancient Balinese Massage where longstroke techniques are enhanced by almond and sunflower oil infused with ginger, lime and ylang ylang. This precedes an exceptional body polish, a thorough slow scrub for ultimate exfoliation with personal scrub formula choice (try Himalayan salts mixed with lemon grass and Argan oil). All rounded off with a Bathing Ceremony in a frangipani-filled bathtub, before a sinfully rich moisturising. Further lavish treatments include Reviving Body Polish Rituals and Nurturing Envelopment Rituals. www.GHMhotels.com

GO WITH THE FLOW Within Ayana Resort in Jimbaran Bay, Thermes Marins Bali is pretty impressive stuff, with one of the world’s largest Aquatonic seawater jet pools, 22,000sqm of clifftop tropical gardens and stash of awards. But their Spa on the Rocks is arguably the star of the show: two luxuriously appointed and glass-fronted treatment villas, anchored on natural craggy rock formations surrounded by sea. Hidden away in a remote spot below Ayana’s towering cliff face, these beauties make you work for it – accessed by a hundred stone steps. SOTR were designed to maximise Ayana’s dramatic ocean setting and

www.karmakandara.com

SPA-RRING PARTNERS Part of on-going upgrades at Seminyak’s The Legian Bali, The Spa has also received a luxuriant facelift. This is evident as soon as you enter 199

SPAS

training sessions at Sentosa’s excellent fitness centre, and colon hydrotherapy (with dedicated room and full-time nurse). Nutritional Consultations are led by gifted Meli – a French-Caribbean licensed nutritionist offering a holistic nutrition approach. Meli also gives life coaching sessions and heavy duty, but extraordinary healing sessions, using theta energy – reprogramming instant change in one’s belief systems, helping clear any blockages or past issues and empowering you to grow, evolve and move forward.

supply unique luxurious spa experiences. Just four treatment packages are available, including the recently launched Lava Me Tender – a two-hour wellbeing ritual inspired by the healing properties of natural volcanic lava. SOTR use some of the world’s finest spa products, including the fabulous Crème De La Mer, uses high mineral content Thermes Marins Lava Range – featuring Laminaria seaweed-based products, yellow volcanic clay, thermal mud and marine collagen . . . all carrying seriously effective anti-oxidant agents for firm, radiant skin. Lava Me Tender features a Crystal de Mer foot soak on the pavilion’s timbered deck overlooking the bay – mineral lava body scrub removing nasty dead skin cells, followed by a luxurious black rice bath in a sunken tub to nourish and soften the skin. A full body, deep-tissue-massage uses lava stones and anti-oxidant essential flower oil, increasing circulation as natural heat released from the lava stones eases muscle tension. A volcanic earth body wrap followed by a firming lotion ends this treatment – locking in all that heightened skin moisture and elasticity. SOTR packages are available at limited daily time slots . . . book for 4pm to coincide with sunsets. www.ayanaresort.com

BALANCING ACT It’s all change at luxury villa resort, Sentosa Seminyak. With an expert team on board and part of Sentosa’s major overhaul (including Salt Tapas restaurant), Spa at Sentosa launches a new spa concept and menu. “We’re now a truly holistic, wholesome spa that features all spectrums of wellness,” says Mariana Palmeiro, director of spa and wellness. Spa at Sentosa’s holistic approach, however, is all about balance for complex modern lifestyles and keeping it real for the vegan party girl. This spa has kept its polished sanctuary design, experienced spa team and core of modern Indonesian deluxe treatments and massages infused with western techniques. These are now accompanied by Sensatia botanicals – an acclaimed spa brand containing pure, organic and sustainable ingredients. “Beauty” focuses on internationally acclaimed science-led skincare products, with British Elemis for results-driven facials and Cocoon Medical Spa, again, in mobilespa format, providing non-invasive light medical treatments. Three Wellness Escapes Programmes (three- or seven-days) aren’t detox boot camps, but rather gentle group retreats with a healing, holistic and educational approach, focusing on either weight loss, stress release or cleansing/detox. Retreats cover anything from private balancing sessions and healthy meal plans, to personal 200

Sentosa is also the first in Bali to introduce New York-style, juicing programme by delivery . . . bottled and labeled juices replacing all meals for full cleansing and detox at home. These six juices consumed each day – for three to seven days – contain cold-pressed organic fruits and vegetables from hydraulic press juicers, keeping enzymes and nutrients intact. www.sentosaseminyak.com

HEAVEN-SENT Part of a multi-million dollar revitalisation programme, Westin Resort Nusa Dua officially launches Indonesia’s first Heavenly Spa by Westin on December 1st. This integrated wellness centre is housed in a new resort wing of the Nusa Dua five-star (with direct street access and ample parking for outside guests) and beautifully compliments The Westin’s innovative and healthy lifestyle facilities. Focusing on an holistic approach to health and wellness, Heavenly Spa offers a nurturing menu that combines traditional spa services, sacred Balinese rituals and ancient healing practices such as yoga, meditation, and Balinese healing, with holistic wellness programmes. Luxurious facilities in ultra-sleek, contemporary Asian design include 16 treatment rooms, hair spa, beauty salon and wellness platform. Heavenly Spa’s menu includes Swirl Pods with pranayama breathing exercises and meditation in beachfront gardens; Purify treatments that feature clay infusions in the steam room and locally sourced ingredients such as seaweed, sea salt and coffee for rejuvenating scrubs and wraps. Spa Rituals, such as Transcend or Enlighten, begin with deep inhalations, burning of incense or meditation. Resort and spa guests can participate in a Wellness Activities Calendar, which offers daily classes focusing on yoga, meditation and Balinese spirituality. Plans for 2014 include a visiting Master-in-Residence series, regular wellness programmes (stress, detoxification and other modern demons) and authentic wellness retreats. www.thewestinbali.com/heavenlyspa/menu/ www.heavenlyspabali.com

above: affusion shower at ayana. below : blissed at sentosa.spa.

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sounds around

“I am hopeful for the future, but I hope the future gets here quick”

franti: soulshine.

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From his hip-hop beginnings with Beatniks and Disposable Heroes of Hiphoprisy, to 12 years of free Power to the Peaceful concerts in San Francisco; from playing the streets in war-torn Palestine to moving crowds at the biggest festivals around the world; from raising funds for Soles 4 Souls to supporting Bumi Sehat natural birthing clinic in Bali, Michael Franti has been a political and humanitarian activist, promoter of peace, and a voice of the people. On the tail-end of his US tour following the release of All People – Spearhead’s 10th album – Michael Franti took time out to speak with The Yak about life off the stage, the things that really matter, his inaugural Soulshine Festival in Ubud, and his love for Bali. Hi Michael, thank you for taking time out during your tour for this interview with The Yak. Nice to meet you and thanks for inviting me. How would you describe yourself? Well, I'm a father, a musician, and I believe in the power of positivity and I love to make people laugh. I am a human being and, just like everyone else, I experience the full depth of human emotion and I try to put that into my work. I believe that music opens the window to the soul and allows those emotions to breathe and have space to exist out in the world. Please tell me about your latest album, All People, and is it a shift in style from your past records, less political perhaps?  I've always been inspired by all types of music even though I've been recently known for doing reggae and rock. I also love dance music, acoustic music, I love story telling . . . in this record I do all those things but I don't find it less political. I feel that my politics have evolved and I believe in finding ways to reach people that doesn't just hit them over the head with a slogan, but allows them to think about the world in a new way, and to see the possibilities of their future in a new light. And if you can make people dance and enjoy the music while doing all those things, then you are really working on a high level. Where do you prefer to be, to play and where do feel you make the most difference to/for people? I love playing music wherever there are people to play for. It could be 50-thousand people at a festival or a couple friends in my living room. To me, music is something to be shared and it doesn't matter what country you are in. Music is universal. Bali has been a long-loved spot of yours – please tell us when your connection with the Island first started? I first came to Bali abaout six years ago for a vacation after a tour in Australia. I've been to many beautiful places in the world, I've seen beaches, and I’ve seen mountains, volcanoes, islands. But what sets Bali apart is the people. Balinese culture is spiritual, artistic, and about community, and I feel like I can learn a lot from it. I think Balinese people and their philosophy of life is one that the whole world can learn from. We hear that you are vegan, please tell me since when and why you became vegan . . . Well I am not vegan, but 98 per cent of my diet is plant-based, every now and then I eat fish. I believe that eating majority green vegetables is best for my health and best for the health of the world, but I still love an occasional frozen yoghurt. Since 2000 you have decided to go barefoot (whenever possible), please explain ... I started traveling to a lot of places in the world where people couldn’t afford to buy shoes. I would start to play soccer with the kids but my feet were too tender and couldn't walk more than a few steps. So I decided to go home to San Francisco and go barefoot for three days. It then turned into a week, then a month and then a year. At 10 years I started working for an organisation called Soles 4 Souls that collects shoes for people around the world who need them. The only time I wear shoes is if I am going

through an airport or going into a restaurant that requires footwear. And I love Bali because most restaurants invite you to take your shoes off. Tell us about the movie I Know I'm Not Alone - what inspired it?   In 2004 I took a trip to Iran, Israel and Palestine to play music on the streets for people. I spoke to them about their lives in war and I made a film about their stories. I spoke to both soldiers as well as civilians on all sides. And in the end I realised that it didn't matter if people were soldiers or civilians, or what country they came from. I met people who wanted peace and who were working each day to achieve it. I am not on the side of one nation or another. I am on the side the peacemakers whichever country they come from. What do you think about the state of the planet, the environment, global warming?   I think the planet is on the edge of man-made disasters, the likes of which we have never seen before in the history of humankind. But I also see there is more awareness and more people who are working to make positive change than ever before. And so I am hopeful for the future, but I hope the future gets here quick. How are you engaged in projects, campaigns, and in assisting change? I work with a lot of organisations to spread the word about the importance of climate change. Recently my partner, Sara Agah, and I have started the Do It For The Love Foundation to bring people with advanced stages of life-threatening illnesses, children with various challenges, and wounded veterans to live concerts. I believe in the power of music to effect change. When did you find out that you were adopted? And, how did that affect you? I've always known I was adopted. I am different colour from my family and as a kid I always felt like I was an outsider, even in the family I was raised in. So I have always had an affinity with others who felt left out. And I have dedicated much of my work to giving voice to people who don't feel like they fit in. I've seen life in many perspectives and I believe in the beauty and power of diversity, and that every single life on this planet is significant. I understand that your father passed away in 2003, how was that for you and did it influence your music or your outlook on life? Four years before my dad passed away, he had a stroke. And as he came back during his recovery he became a very kind person, loving and stopped drinking. We had four years together where we were very close which we never had before during my childhood. His transformation made me believe that it is possible for anyone to change. Please tell me about Soulshine and what inspired you to build it? Soulshine is a place in Ubud where people can come and practice yoga and recharge and get back to being themselves. Through Soulshine we put on a number of events each year to support the Ubud community. This year we are putting on a two-day festival to support the Bumi Sehat birthing clinic and the Green School. You’ve performed in Bali on New Year’s Eve quite a few times over the past years, what is in stall for Bali for this NYE?   After the Soulshine Festival we will have completed a full year of touring in America and ending it in Bali, so I will probably sleep my way into the New Year. What are your aspirations for the next year?   My aspiration is to continue the work that we do 365 days a year. We try and reach as many people as we can through music and the Do It For The Love Foundation, Soulshine and many other organisations we work with. My biggest goal is to see people smile, dance and continue to be moved by the music. Five pearls of wisdom for our readers . . . Be your best. Serve the greater good. Rock out wherever you are! Don't make assumptions. And laugh every day.

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Tatiana Fontes has been an artistic over-achiever since she was five. As an actor, model, singer . . . and DJ, she is taking the world by storm. Tatiana recently did a gig at Bali’s Townhouse. By Mark Baker.

tatiana

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Where did you grow up? Florianópolis, Brazil. Who were your favorite childhood artists? All of the British new wave bands – The Cure, Duran Duran . . . When did you first know you were going to be a DJ and how did you start ? I didn't plan on it. I started for fun and quickly took off. What has been your favorite gig and why? It's hard to choose one . . . but playing with Rick Prydz was definitely a highlight. What's the toughest part of the job? All the long flights. Is being female a plus or a negative in the industry? I think that we have to prove ourselves a little more . . . but once we do that, being a girl is good because it sets us apart. Who is your favorite DJ right now? I still like the old-school guys like Eric Prydz, Mark Knight, and Hernán Cattáneo. Where do you think electronic dance music is heading? I think that it's taking over. Now, even pop and hip-hop are electronic. It's dominating the music industry. Give us a thought about club versus festival gigs . . . For me the important thing is the vibe of the party not the amount of people. Is it important for an artist to self promote . . . and how does one do that? Does social media affect an artist’s ability to gain notoriety and is it vital? Nowadays the internet has made it very easy for anyone to promote her/his business. I take care of all of my social media myself and I love it. What's next for Tatiana? Just to continue traveling the world making people smile and dance. That's what I love to do. A few words about your Pacha residency and how does it feel to play there? It is an honor to represent the name Pacha and be part of this legendary brand. Playing there is always fun because everyone goes there to have a good time . . .

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DARKSIDE PSYCHIC MATADOR/OTHER PEOPLE

New York electronica supremo, enfant terrible Nicolas Jaar and partner is sonic crime guitarist Dave Harrington have delivered on what may be the most pristine, out there synth space rock album since the krautrock boys Can hung up their studio headphones for the last time in 1979. At only 23 Jaar is something of an enigma in the music world, an electronic artist, producer and visionary creator of 2011’s excellent ‘Space is Only Noise’ and presided over a diverse offering of remixes from Cat Power to Grizzly Bear, Nina Simone to Brian Eno, bagged the 2012 Essential Mix of the year and delivered a particularly imaginative (and at times more cohesive) reworking of Daft Punk’s Random Access Memories LP. What makes Jaar so compelling and Psychic such a masterstroke is the scope of his intention with this latest offering. From the epic opening moments of the 11-minute ‘Golden Arrow’ with its heartbeat bass pulse grounding distant whirring synths and drone

reverb dropping into a shuffling stoner disco beat after four minutes of tension building weirdness to the cinematic deliverance of a slouching Leone inspired ‘The Only Shrine I’ve Seen’ and the sonic sub bass assault and haunting lyrics of ‘Freak, Go Home’ this is a record that is on first listen distancing but on subsequent re-visits proves to be an ambitiously layered and rewarding experience. The best is saved for last with the slavering funk overtones of the closing track ‘Metatron’ climaxing in a crescendo of feedback before crashing into silence and rebuilding with a hauntingly ominous vocal sample that Mike Oldfield himself could well have scored. As seductive and challenging as Psychic is it will not find a fan base in commercial waters, and it may well serve to isolate part time fans of Jaar’s more accessible work, to some this may just be the key selling point of Psychic.

THE STEPKIDS TROUBADOUR - STONES THROW

THE INTERNET FEEL GOOD - ODD FUTURE

POLICA SHULAMITH - MEMPHIS

Conneticut funk-soul revivalists The Stepkids have been causing a bit of a stir of late since their first self-titled release back in 2011. Champions of the emerging folk, neo soul sounds of the sixties mixed with more than a smattering of psychedelic and even classical overtones ‘Troubadour’ is the sort of joyous left-of-centre album only Stones Throw label master Peanut Butter Wolf could release.

Following on with their sophomore offering after 2011’s patchy Purple Naked Ladies, The Internet return with a cool and appropriately titled album Feel Good. Lyrist Syd tha Kid and producer Matt Martians have delivered with an edgy and downright funky second act that sounds a lot more together than PNL and has dropped the angst ridden vibe for a cooler, better defined yet still experimental direction.

Named after a radical Canadian feminist (and a deriritive for peace in Hebrew) is a big call for Minneapolis synth powerhouse Polica still only a year old after their 2012 selftitled debut, but this is a band that takes no prisoners and the ferocity of this follow up album leaves little question that Polica intend to be around for quite a while.

Alongside West Coast Odd Future luminaries such as The Internet and the Jet Age of Tomorrow The Stepkids have slowly found their groove not so much in throwback kitsch funk but in redefining a feel good vintage vibe that their label brethren Mayer Hawthorne and James Pants have been championing for the last few years.

Produced by part time Erykah Badu bassist Thundercat (with two albums in his own right worth checking) and Chad Hugo of the Neptunes fame this is fringe electronic soul come jazz meets hip-hop at it’s finest. All eleven tracks have the vibe of an open jam session without entering noodling jazz territory. Highlights are ‘Sunset’ and the single ‘Dontcha’ whilst the real gem ‘Cloud of our Own’ hits half way through with a freeform jazz drumming that elevates a seductively repetitive chorus line before switching into instrumental hip hop and fading out gradually after seven minutes.

Troubadour as a whole comes off as a potent pop record that, despite some utterly horrendous lyrical missteps fires on all cylinders from start to finish with only the title track from the album being the weakest link. White boy soul such as this doesn’t tend to come around too often and for the large part Troubadour sounds like a highly adventurous romp through jazz fuelled melodies, lingering instrumentals and lo-fi funk magic so utterly enthralling it’s hard not to smile.

Feel Good feels like The Internet have grown up in the space of the last two years and is a slice of new wave soul that will no doubt be on a few tastemaker’s top ten album lists come the close of 2013.

The double tracked looping percussion and heavily tinged vocoder effects on the vocals of lead singer Channy Leaneagh make a welcome return this time layered over a darker more dynamic percussive production. From the opening bars of ‘Smug’ with its lyrical send off to a cheating lover to the grinding powerhouse eighties riffs of ‘Tiff’ – the standout track on the album – we get the full trademark Polica aural assault every step of the way. Shulamith doesn’t carry the impact that their first release had but doesn’t falter as so many follow up albums tend to. If you’re into the first Polica album then this is a no brainer, for newcomers that like the sound of Grimes, La Roux, Beth Gibbons and indeed anything synth driven from the eighties then welcome to the Polica party.

film

MILIUS (2013 Zak Knutson, Joey Figueroa)

GRAVITY (2013 Alfonso Cuarón)

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Self-proclaimed Zen anarchist and the subject that inspired the John Goodman character, Walter Sobcjak, in the Coen’s Big Lebowski (not to mention penning Coppola’s Apocalypse Now, Jaws and taking up the director’s reigns for Big Wednesday, amongst others), John Milius is an enigmatic and now reclusive Hollywood legend who has been blacklisted for a large part of his career owing to his political opinions (not to mention the fact he had a tendancy to turn up to meetings carrying a gun). Now he is the topic of a long overdue documentary on the trials and tribulations of a Hollywood hellraiser. As both a creative and as a maniacal Zen anarchist, Milius is the perfect subject for an engrossing documentary and one that filmmakers Knutson and Figueroa dissect perfectly. Pre-Hollywood calling Milius had aspirations of becoming a marine, having a distinguished career and dying gloriously in combat. Instead he was rejected for asthma and sidelined from enlisting for the Vietnam war effort. Haunted by this rejection, his anger turned to fury and a chance viewing of Akira Kurosawa’s Seven Samurai sparked his interest and passion for moviemaking, leading to his enrollment in USC’s film school. Within a few years of graduating he had worked on both Dirty Harry movies and been given his directorial debut on Dillinger. It

was soon after that Milius wrote what would become regarded as the seminal movie on the Vietnam conflict, penning two of the most famous lines ever committed to film. Milius was hot property in town and, with aspiring luminaries such as Paul Schrader and Scorsese behind his talents, it wasn’t long before he gave a young actor his first break in Conan the Barbarian, the lead of course being Arnold Schwarzenegger. It wasn’t until 1984 and the misstep that was to become the politics of Red Dawn that Milius started to fall from grace – that is where this documentary comes into its own. The decline is terrifying as commercial disasters plagued Milius at every turn. The studios turned their backs on him and his once loyal accountant cleaned him out financially. Suffering a stroke soon after, it seemed as though Milius would never recover to his previous career best, yet he did so enough to pen and produce the acclaimed 2005 TV series Rome and continued to work on numerous commissioned and uncommissioned scripts and titles. In Knutson and Figueroa’s hands, Milius is an involving and eye-opening portrayal of one man’s commitment to artistry and unflinching anarchic anti-authoritarian position in an industry that entertained but which society refused to accept. Milius is as colourful as it is bleak with great commentary – worth a watch.

"Don’t Let Go" shouts the tagline of this mega-hyped space odyssey from the Mexican director who brought us one of the smartest road movies of all time (Y Tu Mama Tambien), one of the best fantasy films ever committed to celluloid (Pan’s Labyrinth) and a totally forgettable dalliance with a popular JK Rowling character. His latest offering is something else, as in completely off the chart, take your eyes out, dust them off, pop them back in then go and immediately buy another ticket to the very next screening. Gravity is a masterpiece of cinema. There will be no spoilers here but there will be some advice – to make the most of this you have to track it down to an IMAX theatre and 3D. What we have on our hands here is not a film, it’s 90 minutes of you – the viewer – being thrust into orbit from the opening credits, a vacuum of silence and constellations surrounding you in every direction as Earth’s curvature illuminates proceedings with an ominous and dangerous beauty. It’s stunning, with CGI so good it doesn’t look like CGI at all. Serenity, silence . . . interspersed only with the crackle of a distant Houston relaying messages to our astronauts that glide slowly into view. By now you’re about six minutes into the movie and you’re trying to come to terms with the fact that you walked through the cinema lobby and somehow took a wrong turn, walking through a portal into outer space – when actually you were looking for auditorium 2. You get your breath back for a half second as Clooney and Bullock trade the scene-setting dialogue on their satellite repair mission. Then all hell breaks loose.

I’m not going to focus on the plot, partially because there isn’t much plotline to the movie at all once the setup is complete, instead what we get is one of the most claustrophobically terrifying cinema rides since Ridley Scott decided to set loose a malevolent xenophobe on the Nostromo back in 1979. This is pure tension for 93 minutes, and it doesn’t let you go, doesn’t let you up for air and doesn’t slow down. What Cuarón has achieved with his camerawork in Gravity is simply astounding, the camera moves left, up, then down, pans around our astronauts and the satellites a full three sixty–then enters the visor of Bullock to give us a first-person perspective. How on earth Cuarón managed to structure these shots is unfathomable – then factor in the floating screws, droplets of perspiration, the weightless teardrop . . . none of this shot in zero gravity . . . it’s a staggering feat, a film junkie’s wet dream. Ultimately Gravity is about the fight for survival against all odds, of separation and vulnerability and how we, as human beings, process fear and muster the will to carry on against a seemingly impossible situation, but this really takes second place to the visual treat, editing and pacing that makes Gravity such a riveting ride. The beauty of this film by virtue of the 3D element and the masterful cinematography is that you are actually there fighting alongside our lead characters, second-guessing decisions, praying for Houston to answer us, shallow breathing all the time to conserve oxygen, wondering if you will ever get home. For once the hype is justified, this is unquestionably the film of 2013, just remember to sip, don’t gulp. Gravity is wine not beer.

astroyak

moodofthemoment By Dr Deepak | astro-deepak@usa.net | www.astronlp.com | Skype: drdeepakvidmar

This is going to be a particularly significant year full of disruptions and sudden surprises, of things happening in government, economy, and climate that have never happened before. Last time similar energies happened was in the 1770s – around the time of the American Revolution. Thanks to modern science and technology, we are more vulnerable now. A bird dropping a croissant shut down the enormous mult-billion-dollar Large Hadron Collider. A rat chewing on wires shut down the cooling system of Fukushima. The unpredictable is what is predictable here. Yahoo. We are in for a rollercoaster ride.

aries

Like an exploding supernova, you are full of energy now and your light fills the sky with an incredible force and brightness. It is a no-compromise do-your-own-thing time of life that will never repeat itself. Not a good time to live in the box. You need your space and freedom to move. Incredibly creative time and the urge to express your individuality. Intensity in your work, unpredictability in your self, joy in your children and home, and, paradoxically, arguments with your partner and others.

taurus

There is more between heaven and earth than meets the eye and this is a time when you get to know these things. You have been busy with your work and now is a time to understand the meaning of what you have been doing and all things around you and above. There is a practical world and there is a spiritual world and your curiosity now will bring you into understanding of both. Good to communicate and relate now, particularly with those of similar spiritual interests.

gemini

Maybe you don’t know where to go or what it is you are supposed to do or what is the purpose of your life or the point of it all. Actually you do, but not in any form that can be expressed in words or proper nouns. You have lived your life with words and now they fail you and do not take you where you need to go. The word is not the thing and it is time to escape the box they put you in. Reality comes in many forms and there are many ways of knowing. It is a mystic time for you.

cancer

This is an intense and complicated time for you now my friend. The whole world is going crazy and you are picking up all those feelings. Difficulties in people all around you and yet you yourself are okay. Tension at work and maybe wanting a change. Tension in relationship and discord at home. But, paradoxically, increased self-confidence and optimism within yourself. It is your obsession with attachment and not letting go that gets you into trouble. Sometimes you just have to be more self-centered and think about yourself.

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leo

This may not be the juiciest time in your life. It really is about doing the little things you have been putting off and getting your ship in order to take sail. Sail you will, but first you need to repair any tears in the sails, scrub down any barnacles on the hull, and tighten down the hatch. Possible difficulties with co-workers or employees. Good to get a checkup for any physical difficulties. Good to go on a diet if you need one and to check your nutrition. And then you can sail.

virgo Relax. Nothing to do and nowhere to go. Time to just play and enjoy yourself. Time for your creativity and the best path to creativity is to turn it into play. Outcome doesn’t matter, achievement does not matter, responsibility does not matter. Even reality does not matter. It is just a projection of your logical mind and reality is not logical. Lose your mind and find your joy. Drop your mind and find the divine. Be mindless for a while and fill yourself with spirit.

sagittarius

The energy for you at this time is about your money. You either lose a lot of it or you get a lot of it. Half of you will go one way and the other half will go the other way. Good time for you to be creative and move into something new, but safe. You yourself know which way it might happen. If you have been gambling with high risk stocks or ventures, you are in for trouble. It is a good time to look at what is important to you in life. How you spend your money reflects your values.

capricorn

libra

This may not exactly be the easiest time of your life. That which is stable becomes shaky, that which is eternal disappears before your eyes and the very foundation upon which you stand develops cracks beneath your feet. Hard to make achievement and follow the plan in a world which has become chaotic and mad. You are genetically engineered to handle this. You are at your best against all odds. When the going gets tough, the tough get going. When you pick yourself up, you are empowered.

scorpio

aquarius Time to retreat from the heaviness of the outside world and go in. The inner world of intuition, meditation, and nature are correct for you now. Drop your duties and responsibilities and seek peace. Your psychic abilities are at a peak and it is a good time to make friends with the spirit world. Making money in the material world is just not high on your list of priorities. Take long walks in nature and talk with the trees. Be near water and watch the surface with no ripples or waves.

Your life is about harmony, but the world is exploding. Your life is about relationship, but everybody is doing their own thing. Your life is about peace, but there is conflict everywhere. Your life is about compromise, but others have become extreme. Your life is about fairness and justice, but others have become terrible tyrants. This is not the time for balance in the universe. You cannot do your job of keeping the peace. Maybe stay home for a while and make it a beautiful place. Do not be bothered.

It is the Big Picture that will tell you the Truth. It is a time of Knowing for you, Deep Knowing. There is what you know that you can say and there is what you know that you cannot say. This is about knowing what you can say. It is about getting the big picture that will explain the facts and it is about studying the facts that will give you the big picture. It is about what you know that you can say, share, teach and learn. Good time to speak more my friend so that you can hear what you know.

pisces It is a good time for the part to find the whole. It is a good time for the drop to fall into the ocean and to merge with The All. Find like-minded friends you belong with, find your tribe, and be part of the whole. It is important that you not be alone or separated. It is important that you merge. Not only 2 heads are better than one, 2 hearts are even better. Surrender to the vastness of the universe and let that vastness flow through you and empower you. Good to be very, very kind.

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EVENT ORGANISER Plan A www.planabali.com Yak Directory Yak Map G.1 Pro Motion Events Tel: 287250 www.pro-motion-events.com Page 228 HEALTH, SPAS & SALONS Dala Spa Tel: 972200/756276 www.villadedaun.com Page 231 Yak Map D.9 Cocoon Medical Spa Tel: 847 5997 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com Page 225 Yak Map E.7 Christophe Coiffure Salon Tel: 738025 www.christophe-c.com Yak Directory Yak Map W.10 Glo Day Spa & Salon Tel: 738689/282826 www.glo-day-spa.com Yak Directory Yak Map Y.10 Kayu Manis Spa Tel: 705 777 www.kayumanis.com Page 233 Bud Map E.2 Spoiled Tel: 8475141 Yak Directory Yak Map G.1 HOSPITALS/CLINIC ARC Tel: 754645, 750982 www.arcclinics.com Page 202 Yak Map G.10 Internatioanal SOS Tel: 720100 www.internationalsos.com Page 228 Yak Map G.11 Siloam International Hospital Tel: 779900 www.siloamhospitals.com Page 237 Yak Map F.11 Sunset Vet Tel: 754881 www.sunsetvetbali.com Yak Directory Yak Map E.7 HOTELS & VILLAS Alila Manggis Tel: 0363.41011 www.alilahotels.com Page 20-21 Alila Seminyak www.alilahotels.com Yak Map M.6 Page 20-21 Alila Ubud Tel: 975963 www.alilahotels.com Page 20-21 Alila Villas Uluwatu Tel: 8482166 www.alilahotels.com Page 20-21 Alila Villa Soori Tel: 8946388 www.alilahotels.com Page 20-21, 36 Ayana Residence Bali Tel: 702120

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www.ayanaresidences.com Page 59 Ayana Resort & Spa/Rimba Jimbaran Tel: 8468468 www.rimbajimbaran.com Page 91 Ayung Resort Ubud www.ayungresortubud.com Page 169 Bali Asri Batubelig Tel: 8475376 www.villabaliasri.com www.vbabatubelig.com Page 90 Yak Map L.2 Batu Karang Lembongan Tel: (0366) 5596376 www.batukaranglembongan.com Page 165 Elegancia Villas www.elegancia-bali.com Page 147 Yak Map R.7 Grand Nikko Bali Tel: 773377 www.grandnikkobali.com Page 223 Komune Tel: 3018888 www.komuneresort.com Page 63 Kupu Kupu Barong Tel: 975478 www.kupubarong.com Page 86 Bud Map A.3 LV8 Hotel Tel: 894 8888 www.lv8bali.com Page 98 Yak Map J.1 Mantra Nusa Dua Tel: 8465750 www.mantranusadua.com Page 61 Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort Tel: 815900 www.panpacific.com Page 83 Yak Map U.1 Regent Hotel Tel: 3011888 www.regenthotels.com/bali Page 79 Sofitel Tel: 8492888 www.sofitel.com Page 74 St Regis Bali www.stregisbali.com Page 148-149 The Chedi Ubud Tel: 975685 www.ghmhotels.com Page 28-29 Bud Map E.7 The Laguna www.thelagunabali.com Page 148-149 The Layar Tel: 733262 www.thelayar.com Page 66 Yak Map R.6 The Legian Bali Tel: 730622 www.ghmhotels.com Page 24 Yak Map P.9 The Menjangan

Tel: 0362 94700 www.themenjangan com Page 82 The Mulia Bali Tel: 3017777 www.themulia.com Page FIC The Stones Tel: 3005888 www.stoneshotelbali.com Page 17 Yak Map B.10 The Sungu Resort Tel: 975719 www.thesunguresort.com Page 233 Town House Tel: 8850577 www.seminyaktownhouse.com Page 6-7 Yak Map U.14 Tugu Hotels www.tuguhotels.com Page 229 Yak Map O.1 Villa Berawa Tel: 4737600 www.villaberawabali.com Page 164 Yak Map K.1 Villa Kresna Tel: 730317 www.villakresna.com Page 94 Yak Map P.9 Waka Gangga www.wakahotelsandresorts.com Page 33 Westin Tel 771906 www.westin.com/bali Page 99 MEDIA/PRINTING Indonesia Printer Tel: 021 29022055 www.indonesiaprinter.co.id Page 224 MISCELLANEOUS Dragoon www.dragoon130.com Page 13 Yak Map G.11 Heineken www..com Page 168 Kim Crawford www.kimcrawfordwines.com Page 57 Paniaga/Silver Patron www.patronspirits.com Page 51 Salt Studio Tel: 081236120028 www.saltstudiobali.com Yak Directory Simpson Marine Tel: 723603 www.simpsonmarine.com Page 179 Third Millennia Health Tel 737317 www.thirdmillenniahealth.com Page 232 Yak Map Z.15 PROPERTY Elite Havens Tel: 731074 /738747 www.elitehavens.com

Page 1 Yak Map P.8 RESTAURANTS & BARS Baba’s Tel: 4736576 www.huubali.com Page 55 Yak Map N.6 Barbacoa Tel: 739233 www.barbacoabali.com Page 44 Yak Map U.3 Balique Tel: 704945 www.balique-restaurant.com Page 15 Biku Restaurant Tel: 8570888 www.bikubali.com Page 167 Yak Map O.5 Blue Restaurant Tel: 737898 Page 235 Yak Map T.12 Bridges Tel: 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Page 164 Charlie Bar & Restaurant Tel: 082147417332 www.charliebali.com Page 31 Yak Map U.3 CP Lounge Tel: 978954 Page 224 El Kabron Tel: 7803416 www.elkabron.com Page 227 Gelato Secrets www.gelatosecrets.com Page 228 Yak Map N.6 Hu’u Tel: 4736576 www.huubali.com Page 55 Yak Map N.6 Ibu Rai Tel: 973472 www.iburai.com Page 167 Jazz Cafe Tel: 976 594 www.jazzcafebali.com Page 221 Karma Beach Club Tel: 8482200 www.karmabeach.com Page 67 Yak Map J.2 Ku De Ta Tel: 736969 www.kudeta.net Page 3 Yak Map N.8 La Finca Tel: 2740088 www.lafincabali.com Page 95 Yak Map K.2 Mingle Tel: 975880 Page 225 Petani Tel: 972200 www.alayaubud.com Page 231 Mejekawi Tel: 736969 www.kudeta.net

Page 3 Yak Map N.8 Mozaic Ubud Tel: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Page 87 Sarong Tel: 4737809 www.sarongbali.com Page 23 Yak Map P.4 Shiro Restaurant Tel: 731343 www.shirobar.com Page 19 Yak Map R.6 SIP Bali Tel: 730810/732513 www.sip-bali.com Page 173 Yak Map U.13 Starfish Bloo Tel: 4738106 www.wretreatbali.com Page 45 Yak Map O.4 Sundara Tel: 701010 www.fourseasons.com/ jimbaranbay Page 41 Squeeze Tel: 085739683850 FB: thetownhousebali/squeeze Page 103 Yak Map P.8 TAPA Restaurant Tel: 775111 www.thebale.com Page 82 Teatro Gastroteque Tel: 8700078 www.teatrobali.com Page 37 Yak Map P.8 The Bistrot Tel: 738308 www.bistrot-bali.com Page 75 Yak Map S.8 The Straw Hut Tel: 736750 www.thestrawhut.com Page 94 Yak Map P.9 Uma Cucina Tel: 978 888 www.comohotels.com Page 235 Wah’s Restaurant Tel: 736585 Mobile:+62 818349809 www.wahwahburger.com Page 172 Yak Map N.8 Woobar www.wretreatbali.com Page 45 Yak Map O.4 SHOPS 69 Slam www.69slam.com Page 25 Yak Map T.7, V.9, V.10 Balquisse Living Tel: 8476833 www.balquisseliving.com Page 14 Yak Map W.7 Bamboo Blonde Tel: 730450 www.bambooblonde.com Page 40 Yak Map S.8, U.11 BeachGold Tel: 737549, +62 81338017256 www.beachgoldbali.com

Page 35 Yak Map S.8 Biasa Tel: 730308, 8878002 www.biasabali.com Page 8-9 Yak Map V.12 Body & Soul www.bodyandsoulclothing.com Page 2 Yak Map V.13 By The Sea Tropical Tel; 8446530 www.bytheseatropical.com Page 145 Yak Map V.12 Deus Ex Machina www.deuscustoms.com Page 10-11 Yak Map O.8 Grammes Jewelry Tel: 731562/283861/769555 www.grammesbali.com Page 229 Yak Map U.10 Havaianas www.havaianas.com Page BIC Yak Map Y.9 Kapal Laut Jewelery www.kapal-laut.com Page 165 Yak Map T.14 Milo’s Tel: 8222008, 731689, 778912 www.milos-bali.com Page 16 Yak Map O.8 Oazia Tel: 0859350138 www.oazia.com Page 43 Yak Map V.3

Plaga Wine www.plagawine.com Page 203

Paul Ropp Tel: 774906 www.paulropp.com Back Cover Yak Map T.8 Quarzia Tel: 736644 www.quarzia.it Page 53 Yak Map O.8 Sababay Winery Tel: 261104 www.sababaywinery.com Page 78 Seafolly www.seafolly.com.au Page 27 Yak Map Y.9 Shan Shan Tel: 737160 www.shan-shan.com Page 15 Yak Map U.9 SKS www.sksbali.com Page 39 Yak Map T.8 Sunbrella Tel: 021.52897393 www.sunbrella.com Page 168 Uluwatu Lace www.uluwatu.co.id Page 30 Yak Map S.8 Warisan Tel: 421752/730048 www.warisan.com Page 12 Yak Map. U.4 Yanvan Indonesia Jewelry Tel: 731093/978513 www.yanvan.com Yak Directory Yak Map V. 9

Fashionista, orchid lover and long-time doyen of Bali, Milo, talks about his bali.

MILO, favourite sunset spot? Pantai Seminyak

Favourite shop/brand concept on Bali?

Carlo showroom – Jl. Danau Poso, Sanur Best entertainment in town? Bali Art

Festival (June/July at the Art Centre) Where to head for a long weekend? Pemuteran

If you weren't on Bali you'd be in ... ? Papua – Raja Ampat

On the weekend you'll find me ... ? Amanusa Beach Club

Apart from yourself, who else do you rate as a fashion designer?

Susanna (Biasa), Magali Pascal ...

Where do you go to find the live music you enjoy? Red Drum (African)

What gives you peace and release on Bali? Diving & meditation

Where do you like to dine if you go

out to lunch/dinner? Chandi, Mamasan, Café Batu Jimbar, Madé’s Warung ... Favourite cocktail? Margarita and Campari-soda

Favourite music? Funky ... Latin-American, African, Bajan

Who do you most respect on Bali and why? Ratu Pedanda Madé Gunung – wise holy man

Do you have a favourite resort/villa here for R&R? Aman Group, Taman Sari

What Bali brands do you have hanging in

your wardrobe? A lot of Milo’s and Biasa Your last good read?

The Immortals of Meluha What would you like to see more of, or less of, on Bali? More Balinesisme ... less garbage and plastic ...

less traffic macet ...

less stupid building ... more happiness

Favourite interior designer? Melati Danes, Anna Gutierrez

Favourite airline? Singapore Airlines

If you were Governor for a day you would ...? Implement respect for mother nature (hormati alam). 238