The lighter and darker sides of Bali, Asia’s fashionable playground
Volume 25 Dec/Jan/Feb 2009 - 2010
million dollar candy flower power lunch liggers electric chairs
IDR Rp 68.000 : S$11 : HK$50 : â‚Ź5
Volume Twenty Five
Dec/Jan/February 2009 - 2010 The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Michelle Lamb Consulting Editor Nigel Simmonds – C.V Icomm Senior Associate Photographer Yaeko Masuda www.yaekomasuda.com Associate Fashion Photographer Dustin Humphrey www.reelsessions.com Associate Wine Editor Katrina Valkenburg Sales & Marketing Pia Tandjung Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Accounts Manager Arthur Chosani Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Novan Satria Distribution Made Marjana, Kadek Arthana, Putu Widi Susanto, Made Sutajaya, Didakus Nuba Publisher PT Saka Wahana Cipta Licence 1.265/09-04/PB/V/99 Advertising enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 844 6341, 743 1804, 743 1805 www.theyakmag.com Email: info@theyakmag.com theyak@indosat.net.id Canggu Club Tennis Centre, Jl. Pantai Berawa, Canggu, Bali 80361, Indonesia © PT Saka Wahana Cipta No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed within this publication are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors. So there.
Inquiries: info@theyakmag.com
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Cover Credits Photographers: R. Ghilardi and F. Survara Model: Dayu Make up artist: Bobby Location: Villa Siam Umalas Photo Courtesy of Pura Vida www.puravidafashion.com
con tents 30
Yakety yak First Class Post
32 40
New in the Hood New and Noted
42 44 46 56
this much i know Jamie Thewes
interwho Janice Lee Ripley
Duoview Pika and Pascal Chevillot Culture vulture Deus Ex Machina fashion Fittingly Fifties
46 30
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interiors Electric Chairs
92 98
oral pleasures Como Shambhala Estate
102 108 122 124
ORAL PLEASURES The Amala ORAL PLEASURES KayuPuti CONSTANT WINING Absinthe BIG SIX Let Them Eat Cake YAK DIRECTORY FInd What You Need
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ORAL PLEASURES Flying Fish
128 134
good pr Paul Ropp's Party
140 144 148 152
books Jungle Fever
2010 Annual Activities
venting in a villa Simona Oasis & Spa presidential pads Posh Places upcoming Sea Sentosa
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fashion freestyle Brand Management
166 168
sounds around Dave Seaman
170 174 176
RAVER'S REVIEW Universal Future
JUST DOIN' IT Waterbom Park
ASTRO YAK Your Stars ad index Advertising Directory
Photos: Yaeko Masuda.
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Don’t look at us, just blame it all on Zuckerberg, creator of Facebook. Initially invented to track who was dating whom in Harvard University (20,000 students study there at any one time), Zuckerberg launched this millennia’s communication phenomenon from his college dorm room in 2004. It wasn’t until 2006 that Facebook opened its portal to the public at large – university by university, name by name, friend by friend and fan by fan – and when it did, it not only became the latest Tipping Point marvel the world has experienced but it also created a whole new tribe – The Cyberfossils. Cyberfossils are ultimate at computer time-wasting. Chatting, sending hearts, discovering porn star names, becoming a fan of this or that, making a zoo…even keeping an aquarium clean! Up to an average of four hours a day can be spent ‘cyberfossling’. But Facebook fatigue has surely started to set in? And we at The Yak think it is time to get out there and embrace life. One that is better enjoyed when out and about, and not facing inanimate LCD’s, Wifi-ing until sight is lost on the physicality of the here and now. So to coin a phrase from someone who joined way before we did – you know who you are – it’s time to get off your Facebook and enjoy what The Yak brings to you this issue. For starters we introduce you to Jamie Thewes of The Istana, (a heart-throb of all female yakkers who runs the ultimate pad in all of Bali), before we dive into Sardine for entrées with Pika and Pascal of the newly-opened, uber-popular Sardine restaurant, and head off into the perfumed land of Janice Lee Ripley and her flower boutique, Bloomz. It’s the boy’s turn to order when it comes down to Deus Ex Machina, our favourite top bike pimpers. With a tit-for-tat attitude the girls get to head out to our version of Gili-T-meets-TheHamptons in our contemporary-retro fashion spread, before it is time to take the weight off our backsides and sit in designer buttockresters (even cyberfossils would approve of this one). To marginally drop the tempo and orally please ourselves, we travel to one of Bali’s most elegant eateries, KayuPuti in Nusa Dua, and as a digestif we drink a Bohemian glass of absinthe in Ku Dé Ta and raise our glasses to absent friends (maybe those who are still stuck on Facebook?). By the time we all make it out to Paul Ropp’s fabulous birthday bash, it is time to start planning for 2010 and the other places and parties we want to go to…abroad, baby, abroad! After curling up with a good children’s book in a Presidential Pad the girls make the Fashion Freestyle while the boys do a one-on-one with David Seamen – groove god and Dj extraordinaire. Just before we let you go back and check who wants to become your friend, we recommend you check out our Astroyak and find out whether it really is time to get off your Facebook and welcome in 2010. Whatever you choose, just remember May The Yak be with you in the coming year.
Dear Yak, I just went through the last edition. I must say that I am impressed and pleased to see such a constant evolution in the quality of your publication. The content, the pictures and the overall layout of the magazine have improved with each issue over the last year and have now reached a world class level. As an entrepreneur with a big vision for the future of our beloved island, I am always happy to see quality and professionalism among my peers. I wish you all the best in your business and even more, I hope you will seize the fruits of your dedicated work both in your business and in your life. At Vivalavi, we have been through a lot of very positive changes and we will soon be ready for another campaign of communication. You will be on top of our list. Sincerely, Franck Girardot Chairman / cofounder Vivalavi Holding Group Oh stop it Franck! (Ok, don't). Dear Yak, Spending my holidays in Bali…I've just seen a couple of copies of The Yak and The Bud in a restaurant here in Seminyak. As a serious amateur photographer, I wanted to let you know your magazine is truly beautiful and of high quality. Great articles, but most of all, excellent and inspiring photography! The kind of stuff that I
sincerely hope to be doing one day. Cheers, Arne Holland Hats off to our photographers…Yaeko, Dustin... take a bow. Dear Yak, We really enjoyed the recent Yak Wine Dinner at Métis. Fabulous. Please include us in any future events. We know that anything that is organised by you is sure to be good! Warm Regards, Barbara and Peter Seminyak You're in. Dear Yak, Thank you for your excellent recent article for The Yak Sep/Oct/Nov on the Commonwealth Bank Tournament of Champions 2009 in Bali. We appreciate the coverage that you are giving to promote the tennis event as a tourism attraction for Bali and Indonesia in general. With your continuous support, we look forward to bringing updates on tennis sports to all the readers and thus making this event larger and better each year. See you next November! With warm regards, Kora and Kathryn Media Relations and Promotions Commonwealth Bank Tournament of Champions
Penelope Cruz Our favourite diminutive starlet was handed a copy of this esteemed, erm, organ, while she was in Bali visiting her boyfriend on the set of Eat, Pray, Love, abbreviated in the local press (we noticed recently) to 'EPL'. Small and succinct, much like Mz. Cruz.
It's All In The Alchemy Blend ballet, a love of arts, a unique eye for design and a love of luxury and you must have met a Pamela James design. Each of her pieces is pure alchemy. Collections such as Trinity and Jaguar, with Celtic and bamboo influences, flow with movement, venerate the past or Nature, are exquisitely made and of a rarely-seen quality. Pamela has brought together some of the most skilled artisans of this era and is leading the way in jewelry design; her pieces are destined to become the heirlooms of tomorrow. email: info@pamelajames.com Tel. Bali: +62 8123891403 USA: +00 908 273 6262 www.pamelajames.com
Renegade Royalty Just like it sounds, this shop is chic and elegant yet edgy and sexy. Track pants and sleeveless T’s for slounging round the house, chiffons and silk for sunsets at Ku and on into the night. Marita Daniel takes her style to the streets of Bali accompanied by Lisa Blue from Australia, who will take you to the beaches and pools of the island's top-end villas in her ever so sexy bikinis and one pieces. The renegade really comes in to being with ankle cowboy boots, studded belts and bags and gladiator sandals. And it is back to chic with plaited leather headbands in gold, silver and black and semi precious beaded bracelets. On Jl. Laksmana just past Paul Ropp and on Jl. Legian south of Bank Mandiri. Tel: 8087385/2763115 www.renegaderepublic.net Yak Map ref. T8
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Lights Off, Lights On! DeLighting, one of island’s top companies responsible for lighting up the darkness in such top-notch venues as Métis, is also managing to creatively reduce electricity consumption by as much has 80 percent. Their out-of-the-box designs have also managed to move overhead light fixtures past the rooster cages of yesteryear and into a funky use of an everyday Bali visual - the swine transporter. Their latest ventures, both locally and internationally, include a complete renovation at Club Med Nusa Dua, the wonderful Pinctada Resort in Broome, Western Australia, the very high-end Serene Pavilions in Sri Lanka and the Datai Villas in Langkawi. Moving ever closer to Greater Seminyak (just a tad closer to us than before and on the other side of the road), their HQ can now be found on the left hand side of the road heading north in Banjar Batu Culung. Their outlets can be found in Jimbaran on Jl. Uluwatu nr. Paul Ropp and Jl. Laksmana, Jl. Seminyak and Jl.Kunti. Tel: 420512/7420339 www.de-lighting.com Yak Map ref. V.10/T8 Stamati Gallery Contemporary, naïf, with a touch of religious voodoo – these are some of the words that the paintings of French artist Maxim Stamati bring to mind. Totally original, one-of-a-kind acrylics on canvas now grace the walls of this newest gallery on Jl. Laksmana. Thirty-eight-year-old Stamati has exhibited extensively, with Ubud and his native France being top of the list. This latest artistic space brings more than just colour to what was once known as Eat Street. Tel: 736766 maximstamati@gmail.com Yak Map ref. P.8
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Longing for Nafsu This recently renovated gold temple to fashion, just near to Ku Dé Ta, is all about high-end design and quality. Nafsu – meaning desire or longing – dedicates its shelves to Viktoria Paras’ inspiration, be that in fabric, leather or gold. Her bags set trends in tassled python; exquisitely lined pouches and clutches once again use python but with a glomesh mix. Romanesque dresses and tops come in leather, silk or chiffon and elegant high heels accompany in suede or snake skin. Unique pieces of jewellery are made not only by Paras herself but also by up-and-coming designer, Rabia, whose new collection includes stunning items using healing, semiprecious stones. Tel: 736634 www.studioparas.com Yak Map ref. O.8
Benkay Bring a simple-yet-chic Japanese Vogue Living design and pop a restaurant into it. That is the new Benkay. Newly relocated to the lobby of the Hotel Nikko Bali Resort and Spa in Nusa Dua, the design is as good as the food (and the other way around!). Natural river rocks, natural wood and sand give Benkay a Zen garden feel, but the Teppanyaki counter in the centre - surrounded by the dining counter - places you firmly in a restaurant. If the view is stunning – visualise ocean waves rolling majestically – the food is even better, for this is where the Japanese eat and Masayasu Haruyama chefs. Tel. 773377 www.nikkobali.com
Be C-een Ideated by two entrepreneurial fashion conscious girls, C boutique brings top branded swimwear, beach fashion and more to Bali. Think Missoni, Tocca, Zimmerman and more. C boutique also showcases the Mogil brand of bags, which are all the rage both here and abroad. Sexy shoes and some stunning jewelry make this a must stop if you plan to hit the beach or lounge by the pool this holiday or need to buy a fashionable gift or two. Tel. 8853888 Yak Map ref. P8
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Fabulously Feet In reverence to one of the most important parts of our bodies, Fabulously Feet, on Jl. Sunset 88 (not too far from the Kunti Sunset crossroads) has decided to help us scrub, rub and relax and pretty up our metatarsals. Using only natural ingredients, such as lemongrass, peppermint and camomile there are four foot indulgences to choose from – Pampering deluxe, Pampering bliss, Pure pedicure and Living colours pedicure. Even more of an indulgence is the lunch and tea-time packages, but the one that made our day was the Cosmo Me package – no points if you don’t get that one! Tel. 8475764 www.fabulouslyfeet.com
Limitless indulgence Luxury knows no bounds, so the saying goes and the newest addition to Bali’s magnificent properties, Villa Babar is just one that proves that adage. This six-bedroom villa is set on the beach and surrounded by rice paddies! (That is what one could get if you landed in Bali in the 70s and bought two hectares of land with no actual access, if you were a visionary traveler that is). With original plans by Ross Franklin and implementation by Kampoeng Design, Villa Babar ‘s aim is to create a well-balanced atmosphere, with no corridors, where guests can move freely through exterior galleries. With interiors created by well-known ‘interiorist’, Marie-Hélene Verlant of Sun Bebek fame and a staff of eighteen it really could not get much more luxurious. Oh, but wait, the helicopter landing pad will be receiving the official stamp of approval in the non-too-distant future…how’s that for luxury? www.balivillababar.com Eight Lounge Sanur just got a whole lot trendier. Eight is the new lounge and restaurant headed up by long time Bali residents Chef Abu Goh and Leslie Ong. Having oodles of experience between them we can expect only the best from this dynamic duo. Pan Asian food, a good wine list and fabulous cocktails all immaculately served in a colonial inspired split level venue on Jl. Sanur Raya. Tel. 287591 www.eight-bali.com
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Jimbaran Puri Bali Welcome to Bali’s best beach, Jimbaran Bay, complete with stunning sunsets, gentle sea and nearby traditional fishing village. Welcome also to Jimbaran Puri Bali’s elegant one- and two-bedroom garden pool villas. In keeping with what has become the most sought-after Balinese contemporary architecture, these 22 villas have added yet another luxury notch in the Orient Express belt. Sandstone, wooden decking, all-natural exteriors accompany luxurious interiors designed to the most exacting standards. Romantic bathrooms, spacious, comfortable bedrooms with private pool and pavilion, not to mention a personal butler service to boot, will leave you wanting to go…nowhere! Tel. 701605 www.jimbaranpuribali.com Label it After fifteen years Hatten Wines have decided that it was time for a bit of a make- over. Redesigning their labels shows their commitment to keep up with the times, yet remain true to their Balinese roots. Representing Bali on the international wine stage, Hatten Wines are tropical world wines, or better said, a fresh and fruit driven style of wines which are light in alcohol and uniquely Balinese. From sparkling through red, to white via rosé, Hattens’ wines are a true taste of Bali. Tel. 286298 www.hattenwines.com
InterWho
Janice Janice Lee Ripley, the woman behind Bali flower outfit Bloomz, is a veritable Mary Poppins. Except that she wants us to watch her posies die. Photo: Yaeko Masuda. Janice, why flowers? For the time being, there is no better way for me to integrate different ideas of cultural beauty and art, natural beauty and my creative sensibility. This has been a passion of mine for decades. What’s your favourite? I am fickle. I long for flowers which are not available at the moment…I miss the scents of paper whites or narcissists, the jumbo monster sunflowers of Northern California, long-stemmed French tulips and boughs of dogwood, quince and magnolias. Actually, I am completely content with the flowers that surround me here…the pink gingers, gardenia and branches of guava fruits. And my all-time favourite anywhere that is available here: the longiflorium lily. The trumpet-shaped flower gives off a perfume so sweet and divine. They are pure grace. And I love homegrown lilacs… Where do your blooms come from? I am committed to locally grown flowers. And foliage. So our first choice is flowers grown in Bali. They are brought in daily from Tabanan, Bedugul and Karangasem. Next are the farms in Java, East Java and Bandung…north of Jakarta. We import from Holland for special requests. The quality and variety of locally grown flowers has excelled dramatically since I first opened shop three years ago in Ubud. Where do you come from? And how did you end up in Bali? I’m a New Yorker. Migrated to California where I worked on a Master’s degree at the San Francisco Art Institute. During both undergraduate and graduate schools I worked in fabulous floral shops, a creative vortex of people, materials and challenges. Should we call you a florist? It seems slightly insulting… Sure, go ahead…while working with many talented designers over the years, we would always joke about this “florist” label. It can conjure up some pretty bad floral concepts. Bloomz’ customers and clients know the difference, when they walk through our doorways they experience another dimension, far from the conventional…
Flowers are attached to smells that evoke memories… what’s your earliest memory of flowers? Ah, yes the olfactory sense…most potent for memories! Christmas, the pine needles…we had a huge tree, it would be dark and cold outside, a New York snowy winter and inside the smell of pine and warm lights. And in Summer I played with the lily of the valley stalks just outside our kitchen door. Did you learn to love blooms from anyone in your family? I loved playing with flowers from early on. Some of my friends got in trouble for jumping fences and getting soaked and muddy playing in the brook near our house…I got in trouble for picking all of our next door neighbour’s hydrangeas and rhododendrons. And my grandmother loved to arrange flowers for holiday dinners…but I really learned about love of flowers, which is a discipline really, from my mentors, co-workers and designers over the years. The care of these magical natural critters is an ongoing process of cutting stems, filling water buckets, removing leaves, giving them proper support and enough space to breathe…God, they sound like pets…the phrase ‘labour of love’ comes to mind… What’s the most important part of your work? Seeing, feeling the relationships among the blossoms, branches, vessels and environment they are ultimately to be placed in; creating the unexpected…that’s the poetic aspect. The practical aspect is important as well…logistics, logistics…how, when, where, how much. Are all florists cut from the same jib? No, essentially not. There seems to be two camps: inspired and industrial. Both are hardworking though and have dirt under their fingernails. What’s the most elaborate design you have ever created? Elaborate? Well! Do you want to know the most labourintensive or most awe-inspiring? Because sometimes the most beautiful things are created in an inspired instant – which incidentally is why I refrained from working with flowers for 20 years. I needed to develop a creative maturity, which involved executing an idea, developing it, then making it concrete over time: the jewelry designing
and fabrication was perfect for that. It can take months in collaboration with the smiths, carvers and beaders to get to a final work. It involves a kind of discipline, which flowers did not demand of me. I now have both modes of creativity at my disposal…got my legs, so to speak. So, the most awe-inspiring work comes in quiet moments and is then transported to a client’s dining table, awaiting guests to arrive at sunset. My shops are too elaborate, one friend admonished! Stop making art installations as gorgeous as they are and sell your jewelry in there darlin’! Something tourists and the non-flower people can take with them! So, now Ubud has both florals and gems…romance layered on romance. Soon to show up in Petitenget as well. Do you have time for any other passions? Absolutely. An ongoing pursuit of eastern philosophies, Sanskrit language studies, Chinese brush painting, cooking and my art studio has large charcoal drawings of nautilus shells in various stages of completion plastered on the walls…I love Bali dogs, travel…should I go on? What’s your view of supermarket flowers? They reflect the collective consciousness of the masses and the industrialisation of the flower. My work does not appeal to the masses. What country does flowers best? Each culture brings a different flavour of beauty to the craft. It’s not about the country of origin, but the interpretation of the essentials of design and soul being expressed by the floral artist. It takes a bit of genius to create fresh and original bouquets. Do you ever say thank you to your flowers? All the time! I am stunned mostly. Surrounded by these beauties and with the wonderful people who work with me. I could – would – never do this without the Balinese and Javanese people who staff my shops and bring us the flowers, through rain, heat, earthquakes. This is a great privilege. Can you tell us something we don’t know about flowers? They die so beautifully…we should all spend time seeing how the expire. www.bloomzflowers.com
This Much I Know
He runs one of the poshest pads on the island and has no idea what a chutney ferret is. Good boy, Jamie Thewes. Photo: Yaeko Masuda. Jamie Thewes, why are you always laughing? Because every morning at about 7 o’clock I walk to my bathroom, look in the mirror and am faced by ridicule. Tell us how you grew up... I grew up in the North Perthshire Highlands. It’s a very beautiful, wild part of Scotland. My father is an art dealer and collector, my mother a cook. My childhood was spent mainly outside and invariably involved mud. I’m told that I was a pretty feral child, but I don’t believe it. Our house was constantly full of people enjoying my mother’s food and my father’s cellar. It was quite a remote neck of the woods, so we grew much of what we ate in an old walled garden. As children we were also encouraged to get what we could from the surrounding hills. Spring was St. George’s mushrooms, nettles and gull’s eggs; Summer was salmon, wild garlic, wood sorrel; Autumn was game and mushrooms and Winter was...well Winter was bloody cold! We had a mantra – you kill it, you grill it – which curbed my teenage bloodlust and brought me to the kitchen. In other words, I had an awesome childhood. How did you end up in Bali? Bali arrived at the end of what seemed like a very long journey. We sold our family’s restaurant in 2004 and I then found myself working on various projects primarily in Scotland but also Portugal and the Bahamas. One of my clients was John Dodd who’d recently bought The Istana. He asked me to come out and train his chefs for a few weeks. This became an annual thing until he asked me to come out full time a couple of years ago. What's important to you in life? Contentedness without the smugness.
And food, we would imagine… I was very lucky to have been born into a family who love food. My mother and two aunts are all professional cooks. In the late ’80s my father decided to convert our steading (outbuildings) into a concert hall. It was quite a bold call, for although he had a great love of music, he’d never worked in the industry. At the time he’d been commissioned to refurnish the Libyan Embassy building in London after their expulsion. Everything abandoned had to be sold, so on his return to Scotland he brought with him an enormous commercial kitchen. My parents set up a charitable trust that aimed to give master classes to young musicians from around Scotland. I think, even to my parent’s surprise, it was a huge success. We started to host regular concerts and a music festival. They wisely brought in the Canadian classical guitarist Simon Wynberg as musical director and soon we were hosting some of the greatest artists in the world. In the early ’90s the late Yehudi Menuhin became president and so began an extraordinary relationship between the Menuhin school in Surrey and home. My mother and aunt catered for these events, often cooking for up to 140 guests. We, as kids, would help. It was a great way to learn the dark secrets behind the entertainment industry. My mother, being a thrifty Scot, would take huge pleasure in announcing to the assembled crowds that my brother or I had shot the venison, she’d picked the chanterelles or grown the veg and that the whole expense of the meal was the wine! After I left home I went through the rigmaroles of apprenticeship in Ireland at Ballymaloe, which was a huge learning curve. I then packed up my knife case
and followed my stomach around the world until I came home and opened our restaurant. Can you also wash up? Sure. I was a dishpig for a catering firm in London for the first six months of my professional career. I was promoted to “garnish” chef. I had to walk up and down a long line of cooks elegantly draping greenery on their creations. It wasn’t a happy time in my life! Have you ever cooked for anyone famous? Prince Charles – garnish chef! OK, give us your best culinary anecdote... Once upon a time...an unnamed hotel asked me to discreetly investigate whether their chef was on the take. I spent a few days in the kitchen and soon found that although he was rough as old boots he was straight. In the middle of service, one of his commis admitted that he’d run out of mint for the minty peas. In a flash of “genius” the chef went to his locker and emerged with a tube of gel toothpaste, which he generously squeezed into the simmering water! I was somewhat astonished when the kitchen started getting compliments for “the best peas ever”! The Istana...it’s quite posh isn’t it. And you’re the de facto general manager, we hear. I’m lucky in that we’ve got an excellent GM from Bali Homes Management. I’m not nearly computer literate enough to take on the management side of things. We work very closely on all aspects of running the house but really my domain is in the kitchen or cellar. And posh? Well, the glorious thing about The Istana is that
although it’s breathtaking, it’s not over the top, shiny suited and draped in bling. The only gold is the braid on the 18th century bed covers. Gfab (the architects) really got it right with the renovation project and the Dodds have collected some superb works of art. What's the best part about running somewhere like The Istana? Not having to cajole the team into enjoying themselves. The Istana staff are a very tight knit crew and excellent at what they do. The smiles are genuine. And now for something completely different. What's your opinion of...rainstoppers? I’m in awe. I’m going to start shipping them to Scotland. The Istana’s rain-stopper is so powerful he managed to shield the house from rain while bringing an almighty downpour on the farm next door. Do you have a talent of which you are particularly proud? I’m a pretty dab hand at fly-fishing but I don’t like to brag. What's the worst job you've ever had? After a stint at university I spent two days working for a telesales firm that had been exposed on a TV watchdog programme as a sham. I’ve never been subject to such vehement abuse. I still don’t know what a “chutney ferret” is but apparently I have one where the sun don’t shine! Is there anything else you'd like to share with us? Julia Roberts, Brad Pitt and Angelina did NOT stay at The Istana…honest. And what's the last thought to go through your head at night? Who the hell is calling at this time? Jamie Thewes, thanks for your time. www.theistana.com
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Sardine – brainchild of Pascal Chevillot, a fourth generation chef from Burgundy, and his Slovenian-artist wife Pika – brings new flavour to Seminyak’s flourishing restaurant scene. Salvador Bali went for dinner. Photo: Yaeko Masuda.
P i k a Pika, how old are you and where are you from? Pika: Do I have to tell you? Age 40, and I’m from Slovenia. A bit of your artistic background please… Pika: I went to art school at the age of 14 and that was a specially designed school for gifted children in the arts. After four years of that I went to South America, Argentina, Teatro Colon, where I studied face design for one year. Basically I learned to set the stage, creating the ambience, create the setting. I then went to the Caribbean, Saint Martin, where there weren’t many theatres, and I ended up using my face designs for interiors. I thought it would last three months, but then 10 years went by. I met Pascal; he had a restaurant where I used to eat. So it was love at first bite? Pika: Yeah, like that, that’s it. How old were you when you finished school and how did you know you were gifted? Pika: I was 21 and it was my art teacher. When I went to high school I would always take extra art classes, and at that time they were doing all these IQ tests to figure out what we were good at. I ran into my art teacher and she asked me what I wanted to do. I had no idea, then she told me about this school. I checked it out and was accepted. Pascal, your story please… Pascal: I was born in Germany because my father was in the French army there, but I’m French. My family is from Burgundy and my great grandfather had a hotel in Bourne,
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which my great grandfather started in 1903, the days of horse and carriage. People used to stop there to exchange carriages, horses, and that’s where I was raised. My great grandfather was a chef; my father was a chef and then me. I moved to New York City when I was 21 and started working for my uncle who had a restaurant there, a small place on West Tenth Street. Unreal, I know the place, I lived down the street… Pascal: I was doing the dishes, then doing the salad and after two years I became the chef. I moved on and became chef for one of the biggest players at that time, and that went on for two and half years. From there to Santa Domingo, where my uncle was opening a restaurant. I spent one year there and then I moved to Haiti. So you have Creole cooking in you? Pascal: Yeah, I have been thinking about adding a touch. Then I went on to Saint Martin where I opened a restaurant called Cha Cha Cha, which was a successful, fun place, Colonial style. Where to next, pray tell… Pascal: Well, my restaurant got destroyed by a hurricane. The roof came off, and I was living upstairs, everything gone. The hurricane lasted for 18 hours. It was pretty dramatic. I’ll say, it doesn’t get any better than that. Pascal: So we moved to Los Angeles, where we spent eight years, and there I became a private chef cooking for the stars. People would hire me for the evening and I would cook at parties. Pika: And I painted and did exhibitions and
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interior design for the rich and famous! I presume for the sick and shameless as well! What kind of designs? Pika: I learned to paint and surface sculpt at Teatro Colon. Suddenly I was doing huge murals and painting things that nobody could do there. Nightclubs, posters for restaurants, T-shirt designs, speedboats, billboards, I was 21 and having fun. I never thought of it as a business. And you Pascal, while your wife was movin' and groovin’? Pascal: Cooking, man. Pika: We weren’t married at that time, we were just friends. Let me ask you this Pika…do you ever do the cooking at home? Pika: No, never. Pascal: And I never do the painting! Right. Where does the Bali shuffle come in? Pascal: I came to Bali before and really loved the island and we both knew we loved the island life, so Los Angeles was a passage and my mother was here first. That’s a trip, following your mother… Pascal: Yeah, we came for two months or so every year, we met a lot of people and it felt like home. Did your mother help with the restaurant? Pascal: Not the cooking but always there with the uniforms, furnishings. How old is your mother? Pascal: She’s 79 with amazing energy. I’d like to meet her when I grow up! Pascal: Ha! Me too…so we moved here two and half years ago. And I presume Sardine was always
lurking in the back of your minds? Pika: Yes. During our time here we were always looking for a location. We travelled to Flores; all around, learnt Indonesian, and then decided on here once we saw this location. We did the whole concept on our own, we didn’t have an architect, no contractors, we worked on the design and concept, materials, everything. We had a lot of great help from many people that were generous and opened all their doors with information along the way. We wanted to do something with bamboo, which was part of the concept; we met John Hardy and were inspired by what he had done. The treated bamboo came from Arif, Linda Garland’s son. So why did you decide on a seafood restaurant? Pascal: First of all, I love fish. My wife is a vegetarian and I think Bail is about vegetables and seafood. Food does not have to be flown in from across the other side of the world to be good. What I’m trying to do here is source locally, that’s the way to go. We have our own organic vegetable garden. Any last words of food philosophy? Pascal: Keep it simple, very fresh, use great produce that has flavour…there’s nothing better. Pika: The whole philosophy of the place is the same as the food – simplicity. Sounds like a party for the palate to me. Looking forward to the dinner at hand.
Reservations Tel: 738202.
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Culture Vulture
Sydney-originated motorcycle pimp shop Deus Ex Machina brings its special flair for custom design to Bali's shores. Photos: Yaeko Masuda. Motorcycles. Some people just have trouble leaving them the hell alone. Take Deus Ex Machina, for example. “The whole gig started in Japan,” says Dustin Humphrey, local force behind the Sydney-based custom motorcycle company that’s just opened in Bali. “There were these guys who got tired of fixing up their old bikes,” he says, “so basically they bought new model single-engined bikes and stripped them down to make them look like their old bikes.” Deus in Bali incorporates much of that old-as-new philosophy into a culture that also includes surfing, art, photography and, of course, riding motorcycles. With a bike workshop in Canggu and a store in Jl. Laksmana that sells clothing and accessories, Deus Ex Machina (which translates as ‘God in the machine’) is fast establishing itself as a cultural force here. Continued on page....50.
Culture Vulture
Culture Vulture
“As a motorcycle company,” says Dustin, “Deus pays tribute to a culture that first appeared in Europe and America in the 1940s and which has recently been resurrected by motorcycle enthusiasts in Japan, Australia and America. Today’s motorcycle trends have been driving towards quicker and more powerful designs that are so fast that it is difficult and dangerous to get the bike out of second gear without being on a race track. On the other end of the spectrum lies the army of homogenous scooters that flood
the streets, creating a monotonous sea of sameness. Deus is somewhere in-between these styles with simple, ridable, interesting motorcycles.” In essence, Deus takes a new model motorcycle into its mechanical embrace, unbolts all the bits they don’t want, then straps on a whole new personality around its frame and engine (which is also fiddled with, as if you need to ask). Tanks are custom shaped. The suspension, wheels, swinging arm…etcetera…are replaced with high-performance parts. Fairings are
lovingly created and styled and paint is applied in glorious texture. The end result is the sum total of either your – or their – imagination. But it’s not just about the bikes, they say… Started in Australia five years ago by a handful of motorcycle enthusiasts, Deus has grown to be something greater than just a motorcycle company. “It’s applied art grounded in mechanical common sense,” says Deus originator Dare Jennings. “It’s a timeless style that will still look good in 20 years.”
Culture Vulture
With this cross-pollination of motorcycles, surf and art, all barriers have been broken. “I guess you could say it’s a matter of bringing fine art and applied art together,” says Dustin. “The fine art being the photography, paintings and screen prints; the applied art being the pushbikes, motorcycles and surfboards. Sometimes we will find ourselves taking a ’70s model Honda CB and rebuilding it to its original condition. And sometimes we will take a brand new Honda Tiger and make it look like a ’70s CB. Other times we are taking
bicycles from the early 1900s and making them into beach cruisers. “But it’s not like you have to just be a motorcycle rider or a surfer,” adds Dustin. “It’s just what you are enthusiastic about. We like to surf, we like to build bikes, ride bikes, both motorcycles and push-bikes, we like to paint, we like to screen print, we like photography…and we like Bintangs. So that’s what we do.” N.S.
Fashion
Back to the '50s. Photography by Dustin Humphrey/ Reel Sessions.
Olyessia (left): Bikini: Stylist’s own Obi: FuuAi @ Simple Konsep Store Swim cap: Stylist’s own Melissa (right): Bikini: High Tide Hat: Stylist’s own
Fashion
Swim suit: We love Fairground Swim cap: Stylist’s own
Fashion Dress: Bamboo Blonde Sun Glasses: Vintage Scarf: Stylist’s own
Dress: We love Fairground Glasses: Prisoners of St. Petersburg Necklace: Andriana @ Lulu shop Bracelet: Andriana @ Lulu shop Ring: Tricia Kim @ Uma and Leopold shop
Fashion
Olyessia (foreground): Swimsuit: Bamboo Blonde Swim cap: Stylist’s own Reflector: Vintage Melissa: Swimsuit: Bamboo blonde Swim cap: Stylist’s own Reflector: Vintage
Fashion Dress: Children of the Necklace: Otazu @ So Clothe shop Hair Piece: Stylist’s Own
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Lingerie: Mix Store Brooch: Prisoners of St. Petersburg Ring: Prisoners of St. Petersburg Phone: Prisoners of St. Petersburg Shoes: Ni Luh Djelantik
Dress: Stylist’s own Hat: Stylist’s Own Ring: Tricia Kim @ Uma and Leopold shop Earings: Andriana @ Lulu shop
Fashion
Dress: Coquette @ Simple Konsep Store Scarf: So Clothe Glasses: Prisoners of St. Petersburg Radio: Prisoners of St Petersburg Rings: Prisoners of St. Petersburg; Zoe and Morgan @ C Boutique
Fashion Dress: Bamboo Blonde Bags: Mix store Bracelets: Otazu @ So Clothe shop Anna Michielan @ Simple Konsep Store Glasses: Prisoners of St. Petersburg Necklace: Andriana @ Lulu shop Ring: Tricia Kim @ Uma and Leopold shop
Dress: Malini Ramani @ Lilla Lane shop Bangle: So Clothe Headband: So Clothe Sandals: Bamboo Blonde Ring: Uma and Leopold SPECIAL THANKS TO: In Gili Trawangan: Horizontal Bar and H-Rooms, www.thegiliislands.com; Buddha Dive, www.buddha-resort.com AJ Hackett, Jonny & the glorious Pondok Santi.
Model: Melissa for lvdk productions l-v-d-k.com Model: Olyessia for lvdk productions l-v-d-k.com Photographer: Dustin Humphrey/Reel Sessions Stylist/Art Director: Ozlem Esen Asst. Photographer: Julian Zielonka Make up Artist: Sherry Wilson Producer: Mira Humphrey and Nigel Simmonds Production Assistant: Suyanto
Interiors
A chair is a chair is a chair, right? Wrong, says Hannah James. Photos: Yaeko Masuda.
For thousands of years, the chair – the self-same bog standard item we sit on every single day – was an article of state and dignity, used only by those in positions of privilege and importance. No ordinary household would have owned such luxuries. In fact, until the 16th century, all commoners were reduced to sitting on the floor or chests, benches and stools at best. We have the Europeans, particularly those involved in the Renaissance, to thank for moving us up in life and into the arms – or armchairs as the case may be – of comfort. Beginning in Italy in the 14th century, and spreading to the rest of Europe by the 16th century, this cultural movement profoundly influenced literature, philosophy, art, politics, science, religion and pretty much all other intellectual pursuits. Pursuits that included every individual’s right to comfort, every individual’s right to decide where he can or cannot sit, every individual’s right to choose the chair over the floor. The result being that the chair soon became a standard item of furniture. Not that there has ever been anything standard about the chair – no matter how commonplace an item it has become. One just has to look at the designs of today to see the truth in this. Solid gold and marble have given way to the luxury of leather and suede. Thrones have been cast aside for the comfort of the recliner and the ottoman. Blocks of wood on legs have made way for beanbags, egg-shaped pod chairs, squashy couches, motorised massage chairs. A sense of self-
importance – which back then translated to uncomfortable, chairs built for prominence and placing – has been replaced by a sense of style. And always, from the moment the chair made contact with the posteriors of the masses, imaginative design and a close eye on fashion and trends have played a role in its development. The chair has varied in size, shape and sturdiness to accessorise, if you will, the prevailing fashions of the time. The oversized hoop, crinoline and farthingale skirts of the 16th century, for example (some as wide as three grown women), called for a chair of almost monstrous proportions. When these fashion bumps (in the road) disappeared, thank God, chairs resumed more reasonable proportions. Then, in the 18th and 19th centuries, dandies began appearing in costly, laced coats with tails that required careful handling…and showing off. A ‘conversation chair’ was thus designed, which enabled these fashionistas to sit in such a way as to leave valuable clothing free from creasing. Today chair designs are less about clothing fashions and trends than about the chairs themselves. We see past and present designers like Philippe Starck, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and Charles and Ray Eames delivering the chair a renaissance all of its own. A renaissance that sees chairs as the main attraction, must-have design objects of desire.
Continued on page...77.
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For details of where to buy each chair, please see our directory at the end of this feature.
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cha i r environment and the imagination. People The Eames flexible lounge chair and sometimes tend to use the beauty of the ottoman was a revelation in comfort and wood to replace imagination when it style, becoming an icon of the modern comes to furniture design.” age, both useable and aesthetic. Philippe Take one peep at the chairs showcased Starck’s very modern reinvention of royal seats from the past, meanwhile, with chairs in Deefusion and nobody could accuse Nicolas and the designers he stocks of like the transparent Louis Ghost chair, a any such lack of imagination. Indeed, Louis XV-style chair in transparent and Kenneth’s ‘Dragnet’ chair is so original and coloured polycarbonate, are sought after imaginative that known fashion mavens as both works of art and useful dining and design buffs Brad Pitt and Angelina room objects. But perhaps it was Ludwig Jolie own one in green. Mies van der Rohe, one of the pioneers of Of course, being in Bali, “the copy modern architecture back in the 1920s, capital of the world”, as Nicolas puts it, any who really made the world sit up and take original designers run the risk of being notice with his Barcelona chair – today a copied into mass popularity. Nicolas is not world famous marvel of chrome, steel and too worried, though. “There are two types leather. of client,” he explains, “those who buy the Here in Bali there are plenty of shops selling both original designer and designer original and are happy to pay for quality; and those who buy cheap copies of the knock-off chairs. And while a lot of the original.” Where do you fit in? manufacturers here in Bali focus on the Jose from Manuela Productions use of wood to get bums off seats and into agrees that quality is key when it comes to buying their product, it’s not all about the standing out from the chair stacks in Bali. wood. In fact, there are those who won’t While they aren’t above seeking inspiration touch wooden furniture at all, preferring elsewhere – Manuela Productions to use other natural and synthetic fibres, does a chair very similar in style to the as well as a good dose of imagination. famous Mies van der Rohe Barcelona Nicolas Bour, from Deefusion, who stocks chair – his company is all about the original designs from acclaimed New quality. Producing primarily sofas in both York-trained designer Kenneth Cobonpue, customised designs and from catalogue, explains: “What has happened with wood Jose stresses the use of “best quality in Indonesia is terrible, both it terms of the
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Interiors imported fabrics and foam to ensure a product that is of hotel quality standard.” For Anmarie from iBal Designs, The Orchard, quality should sit comfortably alongside form and function. “A great chair is both sculptural and functional. That elusive ‘wow’ factor will get the editorial buzz but there is no point making a sensational looking chair that is uncomfortable or unstable.” For her, Marc Newson’s “uber-cool gleaming metallic Lockheed Lounge, designed over 20 years ago and recently auctioned for US$1,500,000,” fits the bill. “Madonna may have lounged on it sexily in her Rain video but the Lockheed was the star,” she says. From the selection at The Orchard, Anmarie’s favourite would have to be “the Slant Rocker featured in this story. Children love the rocking motion, teens cocoon themselves busily text messaging and oldies always giggle about not being able to get up but want to give it a try. I love the outdoors version in teak with a bright Sunbrela cushion.” Aside from form and function, Anmarie
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to follow trends rather than introduce is inspired by the “wonderful natural them. “Most things I am seeing in Bali materials in Indonesia – beautiful seem to be restrained or restricted by woods, bamboo, rattan, shell, coconut, what sells well, rather than what is free shagreen – as well as the incredible from market influences. Which is strange talents of the local craftsmen. I’ve just given that there is such a concentration returned from Paris for Maison et Objet,” of mad and eccentric people on the she says, “which is the world’s premier island. I think things are going to get design show. Interestingly, the stands madder in terms of design and creativity. I generating the most buzz and crowds certainly hope so...” were from Asia, where our huge range For Abhi, “madder” design means of natural materials were combined with combining function, form and comfort – cutting-edge design.” That said, Anmarie “My wife’s bum, and her comfort, always does wish local Bali designers “would inspires me in designing chairs,” he jokes. create more trends. It breaks my heart “Humour is a pretty important aspect that to see Indonesia’s precious hardwoods is almost always forgotten in the design wasted on hideous chairs in ‘luxury’ villas. of chairs,” he adds. In his world this has Other Asian countries like Thailand and translated to a range of egg-inspired especially the Philippines are far more chairs that are as comfortable as they innovative and design driven. We have are quirky. Their ‘Don’t Break My Eggs’ the same materials, skills and imagination design – a large metal basket stuffed with available here, but not the emphasis on cushiony ‘eggs’ – is a favourite. “Fantastic, design education and nurturing a local fun, beautiful and good value,” says Abhi. design culture.” Abhi, from Word of Mouth, a slick new Sounds good enough to sit on. design-driven furniture shop on Jl. Kunti, agrees that Bali designers currently tend Directory, page 88.
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directory ...and here's where you can buy them. With special thanks to Simona Oasis and Spa, our inspirational backdrop for many of the shots.
Chapung Se Bali Danish Delight
mies / lilly reich Barcelona Chair
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The Bauhaus Barcelona chair is a much-loved classic designed in 1929...but who would know? Replicas are available in Bali from various sources, but ours came from Manuela Productions, tel: 737242.
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word of mouth Beanbag
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Glorious to pile into and great to look at in any room, this glamourous beanbag is available at Word of Mouth, Jl. Kunti (Arcade). Tel: 7432565.
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Sadly we were unable to track down the original designer of these fabulous armchairs, but they were so good to look at we couldn't resist taking a snap. Available for viewing at Chapung Se Bali, tel: 7800940, www.chapung.com
manuela Productions Aston Chair
Carlo Pessina pioneered the use of coconut shell as a unique finishing for his designs, and has since incorporated a variety of other natural materials including motherof-pearl and sea penshell, tel: 285211, www.carloshowroom.com
Manuela Productions makes first class original and replica furniture – including this one in brown hide – available for viewing at its showroom in Jl. Gn Tangkuban Perahu No 8A, Kerobokan, tel: 737242.
EAMES LCW Chair
A flattering chaise lounge in aluminium and rubber, we took the liberty of putting it on the roof...but you may feel it better fits any open interior space. Available from Sks in Jl. Laksmana, tel: 730393.
A variation on the LCW Chair (Lounge Chair Wood) by Charles Eames, designed circa 1950 in association with the Herman Miller Furniture Company. View at www. chapung.com
Arne Jacobsen Egg
Word of Mouth Paperfold
Designed in 1958 for Radisson Hotel in Copenhagen by Arne Emil Jacobsen, a Danish architect and designer, Egg is believed to be inspired by Eero Saarinen's Womb Chair. View at resort Chapung Se Bali, tel: 7800940, www.chapung.com
We wondered who was the more twisted here... the designers at Word of Mouth or us for carting this fabulous chair off to the riverside for a photoshoot. Available from Word of Mouth, tel: 7432565, www. wordofmouthbali.com
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Loved by kids, teens and oldies (who can't wait to give it a try), the Slant Rocker from The Orchard is a hit with the whole family. Available from iBali Designs, tel: 736724, www. ibalidesigns.com
Carlo Alta Arm Chair
SKS Spin Lounger
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ibali designs, The Orchard Slant Rocker
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CARLO Madura Arm Chair
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More assured dining pleasure from Bali's leading furniture designer, this arm chair matches a light rattan cushion with polished light coconut shell. Available through Carlo's website at www.carloshowroom. com, tel: 285211.
Deefusion Yin and Yang Side Chair
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DeeFusion brings a unique use of materials and skills together that match style with individual design, with a nod to the romance of the living or dining room. Tel: 738308, www.deefusion.com
Charles Eames Armchair
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A variation on Charles Eames Armchair models designed in 1948 and made from fibreglass reinforced polyester, we found these Danishbuilt replicas at resort Chaplung Se Bali outside Ubud. To visit and enjoy call 7800940. www.chapung.com
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SKS Lounge Chair Mosaica
Deefusion Dragnet
More modern love from Sks simplekonsepstore, this aluminium and plastic chair is as good to look at as it is to sit on. Available from Sks on Jl. Laksmana, tel: 730393.
We couldn't resist this basket chair in red, matched to comfortable cushions and available from DeeFusion, Jl. Laksmana, tel: 738308, www.deefusion.com
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well, well, well.
Text: Hannah James. Photos: Yaeko Masuda. RUMOUR has it Annie Lennox and Donna Karan are fans. They wouldn’t be the only two either. “Many of our guests leave us feeling like their life has changed,” reveals Monica Barter, Group Director for Wellness at COMO Shambhala Estate. “That we have managed to help them gain strength to face issues,” she adds, “or to see their life in a different perspective and with a renewed sense of vigour. It’s truly a magical and energetic place.” Magical and energetic? What’s not to like? COMO Shambhala, the wellbeing arm of COMO Hotels and Resorts, is all about “empowering people to adopt a holistic, integrated approach to wellness. Nothing is drastic, regimented or extreme,” explains Barter. An approach which, naturally, includes food. Burger lovers may be forgiven for switching off right now, but it would be a mistake to think ‘rabbit food’ and ‘COMO cuisine’ are being served up on the same plate. Yes, COMO concentrates on healthy, organic cuisine, but this is healthy, organic
cuisine like you’ve never tasted before. Healthy, organic cuisine that tastes like, well, more. That tastes like sudden cravings, which lead to specially planned weekend lunch outings and ‘best kept secret’ whisperings. Billed as a “retreat for change”, COMO offers guests a menu of life coaches, energy healers, yoga masters and nutritionists to help you completely overhaul your life. Guests then get to choose from ‘Get Fit’, ‘Rejuvenation’, ‘Cleansing’, ‘Ayurvedic’, ‘Stress Management’ or bespoke health programmes for further focus. None of which, we must admit, sounded very promising for the palate. But we hadn’t factored in a chef determined to work with these professionals, and in relation to specific programmes, to get a satisfied glow going amongst diners. Passionate foodie and acclaimed chef Chris Miller works with a resident nutritionist on the individualised health aspects of all menus. His main ingredient, however, would have to be his imagination.
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Como's retreat villas: maximum relaxation.
It’s an ingredient that allows him to come up with dishes that taste decadent but are in fact incredibly healthy. Think amazing combinations like sea vegetable, avocado, cucumber & radish salad with Japanese dressing; or lentils, crushed walnuts, goat’s curd, green beans & roasted beetroot; lobster, chicken & pear salad with tamarind dressing; lasagne of zucchini, basil and semi dried tomatoes with pine nut cheese béchamel…yum. Unlike so many other ‘health’ restaurants and spa venues, “people will see immediately that we offer fish and
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meat on our menu,” says Barter, “so we are not strictly vegetarian or ‘raw’. The main focus is rather “locally sourced food that is nutritious and life-giving, yet tasty”. What’s more, “COMO Shambhala cuisine does not stipulate calorie-counting diets. Instead, we foster a more balanced approach, encouraging guests to enjoy their food and its creation while maintaining a life-long interest in the benefits of good nutrition.”
The idea is to “make people realise that they can adopt a more balanced approach towards their relationship with food,” says Barter. “Guests continuously comment at how surprisingly tasty healthy food can be. But the very best compliments we get are from guests who feel empowered to go home and have a go at preparing the same healthy dishes they have eaten at The Estate. When this happens we know we have succeeded.” Magical and energetic indeed. www.cse.como.bz
Far left and this page, Kudus House. Left, Miller's creations espouse health and good nutrition.
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The Amala takes rejuvenation one step further. By Hannah James. Photos: Yaeko Masuda.
By the chef’s own, rather humble, admission, it is the ambience at The Amala that is perhaps its biggest selling point as a culinary venue. “Stepping off the hectic Jalan Kunti and into the peaceful surroundings, with its water features and green landscaping, The Amala makes for a really relaxing dining experience,” explains Brandon Huisman, Executive Chef at The Amala and its sister property, The Balé. Bamboo restaurant, for example, is located pool-side amidst a forest of greenery, guaranteed to make for balmy, breezy al fresco lunches. Couple this with “light and tasty meals”, as Huisman calls them, and you’ve got exactly the type of locale that appeals to those who lunch. And indeed anyone looking to step off the well-trodden tourist track. In spite of Huisman’s self-effacing assertion that it’s the ambience that pulls in the punters, it’s the food itself that
attracts. A creative blend of Indonesian, South East Asian and Western cuisine using organic products and raw foods wherever possible, the menu is no second cousin to the leafy location. The cuisine at The Amala focuses on “light, flavourful meals,” with some local specialities thrown in. The style, according to Huisman, is “contemporary continental – more or less a modern approach to favourite dishes focusing on clean flavours and textures.” You won’t find any heavy, nap-inducing dishes here. What this equates to in terms of real, live food – glorious food – is what is termed a ‘wellness’ menu at The Amala which in no way skimps on deliciousness. The extremely creative organic quinoa salad with toasted almonds, papaya relish and madras curry vinaigrette, for example, is always very popular, says Huisman. For main course, he recommends you go with something like “the poached chicken breast with Mediterranean cous-cous, roast fennel and tomato broth.” And for dessert? Because, yes, wellness can, and should, include dessert, “the green tea crème brûlée has proven to be popular”. Clearly out of the top drawer in terms of creative cuisine that is as palatable as it is pretty, Huisman is also inspired by “new
ingredients and equipment. The owner recently purchased a food dehydrator and we have been playing around with that a lot, dehydrating seasonal fruits and vegetables”. But, ingredients-wise, it is really “anything fresh, at the peak of its season,” that gets Huisman excited and inspired. His most important ingredient of all, though? Something absolutely no kitchen should be without ever? “I would definitely say passion. If the you don’t have passion for what you’re doing, for the food you’re creating, it is so very transparent in the quality of the dish.” Passion on a plate… www.theamala.com
Tea-time in the lobby – The Amala.
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Oral Oscar Perez and his team make white the most fashionable colour in the culinary rainbow at The St Regis. By Hannah James. Photos: Yaeko Masuda. THE kitchens at The St Regis Bali have been described as “a playground, where chefs and kitchen staff are encouraged to explore, to learn and to adventure into the imagination.” Headed up by Executive Chef Oscar Perez, this translates into delicious, designer cuisine that thoroughly distracts from the stunning tropical surroundings of KayuPuti restaurant. Overlooking the Nusa Dua beach and the big blue beyond, but with the added bonus of air conditioning, KayuPuti is The St Regis’ nod to fine dining. And fine dining is certainly what you’ll find – even at the more casual lunch time hour. “Lunch at
Interior detail, KayuPuti at The Regis.
Perez's cuisine fittingly matches the restaurant's bright interior.
Oral Pleasures
KayuPuti focuses generally on light food as well as comfort food in line with the relaxed mindset of guests spending their time lounging at our Vista pool bar or at the beach during the day,” explains Perez. “The focus of the cuisine is ultimately to offer a meal rich in flavour using only the freshest ingredients.” Alaskan king crab meat and Tasmanian salmon; caviar and oysters; freshly caught local seafood; Wagyu beef from Australia and Kobe beef from Japan; and a good vegetarian and organic selection…no expense is spared in the quest for the very best, fresh, quality ingredients. These are then whipped up into works of art, as appreciated by the palate as the eye, blending Asian flavours with modern Western influences. The most popular lunchtime dish, though, would have to be “our Linguini pasta with lobster,” says Perez. “A simple dish, the lobster is taken from a live tank and prepared with precision and care, then gently tossed and served with fresh herbs and a drizzle of basil oil. Seafood does not come fresher than this. It is an apt dish too, given that our guests enjoy the exquisite flavours with the Indian Ocean as a backdrop.” Inspired by the superb tastes he talks of, Perez is constantly “travelling in search of new flavours, authentic cooking techniques and learning more about a dish.” Couple this with an eye for architecture, “building structure lines, modern art, contemporary design” out of the food presented on your plate, and it’s easy to see why Perez and his team are classified
as artists. But the real secret to great food can still be found in the old, simple, favourites. No kitchen should ever be without “sugar, salt, pepper and fresh herbs to adjust flavours and to create sumptuous appeal,” reveals Perez. Perez believes too that “guests keep coming back for lunch at KayuPuti for the personal service they get from the team – both service and kitchen staff members. We know what our guests want and we are sure to always deliver”. Add to this the small fact of KayuPuti’s quite spectacular location and setting, “a great view overlooking the Indian Ocean and with a complete open kitchen which allows guests to follow the preparation of their meals,” and it’s a sure-fire recipe for repeat attendees. “KayuPuti is definitely a restaurant like no other on the island,” asserts Perez. “From the personalised service of the staff to the authentic cooking techniques and modern presentation, using only the freshest of ingredients with the richest of flavours; to the tranquil white décor and the ocean backdrop with accompanying soft ocean breezes,” he says. It is the famed KayuPuti seafood especially, though, that really inspires long, lingering lunches. And with lunch service only stopping at 5pm, don’t schedule any other appointments for the day. www.stregis.com/bali
Constant Wining
Take neutral grape spirits combined with dried flowers and wormwood leaves, suffuse with vaunted aphrodisiac powers, mix in a history dark with tales of death and madness and you have one of the world’s most maligned – and misunderstood – aperitifs: absinthe. A drink for lovers of life in all its forms By Katrina Valkenburg. Photos: Yaeko Masuda.
To those of you who read this column regularly, my apologies, I have strayed. Strayed from the vine, that is. And now I want to talk of another love: absinthe – the Green Fairy. The reason being that I recently consumed a certain amount of this lusciously warming and decadently destructive spirit after an already fairly liquid lunch in Bali and the memories, well, blurry memories at least, came flooding back. All those new-best-friends I’ve met in places well forgotten under the influence of absinthe – a trip down the proverbial memory lane. Memories I can talk about include being not-so-politely asked to shut up in a Parisian bar in the Marais whilst singing the "Habanera" Continued on page...112.
Constant Wining
excluding Bali, for all you home brewers). The German name for wormwood is Wermut, or vermouth, and there’s a small amount of wormwood oil in vermouth. The Latin name for wormwood is artemisia absinthium and its oil is known as absinthol, hence the name given to this extraordinarily maligned elixir. The active ingredient in absinthe comes from wormwood and is called thujone. Administered in large enough doses it causes epileptic fits, along with a myriad of other symptoms. The Ancient Egyptians swore by wormwood to get rid of their intestinal worms. The Aztecs had to agree, but took things a few steps further and prescribed wormwood to aid digestion, stimulate the appetite, promote menstruation and to aid the healing of infected wounds or open ulcers. The Ancient Greeks dedicated wormwood to their goddess Artemisia, and claimed that it could counteract poison. Whether from hemlock, mushrooms, or sea dragons, wormwood was the antidote you needed. Hippocrates also prescribed it for jaundice, anemia, rheumatism and menstrual pains. And so our history lesson finds us in relatively modern times in Switzerland. The inventor of modern absinthe was Dr. Pierre Ordinaire, a Royalist, who fled France in 1790 and set up near Neuchatel in Switzerland where he compounded his own drugs. Having observed an abundance of the wormwood plant whilst out riding in the mountains, he began experimenting with infusions of dried absinthium and other herbs. In 1792, he
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from Carmen at the top of my lungs at three in the afternoon; cozying up to some notable from Kiev in a jazz bar in Prague; a long night in an ultra-chic nightclub in Barcelona and the resultant reckless drive through cobbled back streets to a 12th century palacio; having a grand piano moved from the foyer of a Melbourne hotel up to a suite so that Joe Cocker’s musical director and pianist could accompany my absinthe-charged vocals… "After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, and that is the most horrible thing in the world." ~Oscar Wilde Among the 15 herbs in absinthe are the dried flowers and leaves of wormwood, a plant that grows abundantly to about three feet tall in temperate regions around the world (including Chernobyl and
concocted a formula of 15 plants, including wormwood, Spanish anise, hyssop, Melissa, coriander, veronica, chamomile, persil and spinach for purely medicinal purposes. The French army soon began to administer it as a common health tonic until the soldiers grew overly fond of the unique, fragrant and very high-proof beverage. It was only a matter of time before the emerald aperitif found its way into Parisian high society and before long the market grew like wild fire, reputedly reaching sales of millions of gallons a year in France alone. And here I veature back to more familiar ground – the wine industry. The Green Fairy had taken such a significant chunk out of wine sales at the beginning
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of the 20th century that, along with the church that saw absinthe's immense popularity as a social and economic threat, a backlash against absinthe began. In 1905, there came the story of one Jean Lanfray, a burly, six-foot vineyard worker (see, we’re still on wine) from a very small community in Switzerland, whose heinous crimes sealed the fate of absinthe for nearly a century. Lafray’s daily intake of a myriad of alcohols was over the top. Swiss police faithfully recorded that Lafray’s alcohol intake on this fateful day included: 5:30am: Crème de Menthe with water and then a Cognac with soda; 12pm: three glasses of piquette (a very strong homemade wine made from pinot noir grapes); 3pm: two glasses of piquette; 4:15: two glasses of red wine; 4:30: black coffee with brandy; 5pm: one litre of piquette; 6pm: Strong black coffee laced him a healthy slug of marc, a powerful brandy he made himself. Having consumed the above he committed the unthinkable – he murdered his wife at point blank range with a longbarreled rifle, then his oldest daughter and
finally his sleeping infant daughter, before turning the rifle on himself – in this he was unsuccessful – he survived the bullet that passed through his jaw and was found by the police in the stable in a deep stupor with his youngest daughter in his arms. Later, when the police and psychiatrists delved into his behaviour pattern, they found that he drank at least two to two and a half litres of vin ordinaire and two to two-and-a-half litres of the stronger piquette – about six quarts in all plus several brandies and cordials and one or two absinthes per day. Apparently when Lafray was taken to view the three coffins, Nurse Marie Blaser said that the murderer wept and moaned over and over, "It is not me who did this. Tell me, O God, please tell me that I have not done this. I loved my wife and children so much." Lanfray insisted he did not remember anything about the murders. Soon after, the villagers of this small community discovered that Mme. Lanfray had been four months pregnant with a male fetus. A mass meeting in the schoolhouse was organised and there they voted overwhelmingly on the scapegoat – absinthe.
Constant Wining Within a few days, 82,000 people had signed a petition to ban absinthe. News spread like wildfire along the proverbial grape vine and, by 1908 absinthe was banned across virtually all of Europe and England and eventually in the United States, where anti-absinthe laws were written into the Constitution. Thankfully a number of countries continued to produce absinthe – most notably the Czech Republic and Spain. Lovers of the drink have said that “absinthe is a spark that explodes the gunpowder of wine”. H. Warner Allen, the English liquor authority, warned: “Those who experiment with absinthe will do well to remember that it has the curious property of doubling the effect of every
drink that is taken after it, so that half a bottle of wine at the meal which follows it will be equivalent to a whole bottle.” Ernest Hemingway (amongst other literary luminaries) has written the warmest of tributes to absinthe. He fell in love with it in 1922 when in Spain and spent the rest of his life in sheer reverence. Hemingway said that when you sipped it slowly, it was an “opaque, bitter, tonguenumbing, brain-warming, stomachwarming, idea-changing liquid alchemy...In this, the real absinthe, there is wormwood. It’s supposed to rot your brain out, but I don’t believe it. It only changes the ideas. You should pour water into it very slowly, a few drops at a time”. Whiskey, Hemingway added, “does not curl around inside of you
the way absinthe does. There is nothing like absinthe.” Absinthe's dangerous mystique today accounts both for its illegality and its marketability. Its wild bohemian past and supposed lethal magic has done wonders for marketers who perpetuate its mystery. Although anti-absinthe laws have slackened over the last decade or so, (most members of the European Union now allow the sale of absinthe, with limits on thujone content), absinthe’s stigma lingers and paraphernalia such as spoons, glasses, fountains and bottles fetch outrageous prices. Even Martha Stewart has joined the bandwagon, admitting her interest in absinthe collectibles in a Vanity Fair interview.
The best brands on the market today offer rich and fragrant spirits but if you’re looking for hallucinogenic effects, it would be wise to look elsewhere – the amount of the active ingredient thujone is so small that sniffing a brandy balloon could get you higher. But absinthe remains an intoxicating magnet for those who enjoy the flavour of anise and its infamous history cannot help but raise its popularity amongst connoisseurs and thrill seekers the world over.
Katrina Valkenburg is a wine consultant and educator. All correspondence to katrinav@ mac.com
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How to Prepare Your Absinthe AND now it’s time for you to drink it. Traditionally, absinthe is prepared by placing a sugar cube on top of a specially designed slotted spoon and then placing the spoon on the glass which has been filled with a shot of absinthe. Ice-cold water is then poured or dripped over the sugar cube so that the water is slowly and evenly displaced into the absinthe, typically one part absinthe and three to five parts water. During this process, components not soluble in water (mainly those from anise, fennel, and star anise) come out of solution and cloud the drink. The resulting milky opalescence is called the louche (Fr. "opaque" or "shady"). Releasing these components allows
herbal aromas and flavours to "blossom" or "bloom" and brings out subtleties originally over-powered by the anise. This is often referred to as "The French Method." "The Bohemian Method" is an alternative that is popular primarily due to the use of fire. Like the French method, a sugar cube is placed on a slotted spoon over a glass containing one shot of absinthe. The difference is that the sugar is pre-soaked in alcohol, usually more absinthe, and then set ablaze. The flaming sugar cube is then dropped into the glass igniting the absinthe. Finally, a shot glass full of water is added to douse the flames. This method tends to produce a stronger drink‌
With special thanks to Steve from Bar Solutions, our preferred mixologists, and Ku DĂŠ Ta, which needs no introduction.
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LetTHEMEATCAKE Hannah James gets about the Bali boulangeries.
La Boulangerie De Bali Jl. Raya Seminyak CLOSE your eyes. Picture a French boulangerie in your imagination. Now open your eyes on La Boulangerie De Bali and you’ll see an exact replica. This boulangerie, next to the Bintang separtment on Jl. Raya Seminyak, looks exactly like you think it should. A quaint, prettily decorated hole in the wall, a pile of long baguettes front and foremost, with smells and sights to match the evocative picture of France you’re now carrying about in both your head and on your tastebuds. Oval windows tempt with plump danishes in every flavour; almond, cheese and chocolate croissants battle with éclairs and choux à la crème (cream puffs) for French supremacy in your shopping basket; traditional French breads cozy up to healthy, 100% organic German loaves; while mille feuille (vanilla slices) ooze creamy goodness, making a mockery of any attempt at denial and self-restraint. This is what French pastries, and their subservient chefs and bakers, were born to do. Just give in already. Open seven days a week, La Boulangerie De Bali will do customised orders, deliver every day and even offer an ‘emergency order’ service for those times when one must, absolutely must!, have your cake and eat it. Tel: 736967 Bali Catering Company Jl. Petitenget, Kerobokan For serious foodies, or anyone with a craving for a little smackerel of something seriously delicious (to paraphrase that most serious of all foodies, Winnie the Pooh), Bali Catering Company seems to have borrowed shop space straight out of heaven. This is the place to go for those delicacies you long for but thought you’d never find on an island where imported goods are, well, random, because Bali
Catering Company does away with importing and makes it all themselves. Take a seat at one of the chic window seats, then promptly turn your back on the outside world as you gaze with longing through the window into the kitchen where pastry chefs whip up exquisite looking pastries with equally exquisite names. Pistachio raspberry financier. Chouquette. Croque Monsier. Danishes in every imaginable combination. Truffles and terrines, patés and pastries. The shop space may be tiny, but it’s beautifully laid out, a multitude of treats perfectly positioned on gleaming white and glass surfaces. Pastries for every palate, as well as ready made meals, appetisers, cakes and other goodies, delivered to your doorstep...consider yourself warned: this café and deli are a diet death wish. Tel: 732115 The Pantry Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur For bags of buttery goodness you won’t do much better than the croissants and brioches at The Pantry, the deli next door to the much-loved Batu Jimbar Cafe in Sanur. The French pastries on offer at The Pantry aren’t necessarily straight from the oven – the croissants and brioches in question come in pre-packaged bags of six to eight – but that doesn’t make them any less delicious. Must be something to do with all that butter… The baked goods section of The Pantry also offers probably the best selection of breads on this side of the island – including multi-grain, raisin and walnut, good old-fashioned French country loaf (check the cheese counter for more French delights to go with it), carrot and seed loaf, rye and more. If it’s cake you’re after, just pop next door to Batu Jimbar (there’s even an adjoining door through the wine cellar at the back)
to drool over Black Forest cake, blueberry cheesecake, carrot cake and island-famous brownies. Not necessarily the most French of cake-offerings but really, when it comes to cakes this decadent do we really need to cry over spilt cream puffs? Tel: 281008 Bali Bakery Seminyak Square/Jl. Raya Kuta/Jl. Hayam Wuruk, Denpasar An old faithful, Bali Bakery is the place to go for power breakfasts, a morning coffee and pastry on the run, long lunches and afternoon teas filled with decadent, cream-filled delights. Practically a Bali institution, you know what you’re going to get every time you walk through the doors. And love it. Now with a brand new space in Seminyak Square, Bali Bakery is serving cakes, pastries and other baked bliss to islanders from Seminyak to Kuta to Denpasar. (A love for cake knows no geographical restraints or boundaries after all, so why should its purveyors?) For the biggest selection, though, it’s still worth your while to head to the original Kuta branch. A huge building, with slices of cake and pastries to match it in stature, there’s plenty of space for an almost overwhelming array of all things baked. Fortunately, there’s still space left over for you to take a seat at a table while you ponder your pastry purchases over a cup of coffee or a meal from one of the most extensive menus on the island. Bali Bakery does nothing in half measures. When it comes to anything involving French pastries, though, why would you? Tel: 738033 Map ref: P.7 BALI DELI Jl. Kunti, Seminyak It’s official. The cupcake is all grown up. Yes, that same cupcake we used to smash to
our faces as children, has come of age. This cupcake is gorgeous and sexy. It begs to be gazed at lasciviously… and then savoured slowly. To view its current reincarnation at its very best, head for Bali Deli. You can’t beat Bali Deli for pure convenience, either. And sensory overload. One of Bali’s best known delis, with possibly the best selection of imported goods on the island, Bali Deli also does a rather lovely line in cupcakes. Chocolate smothered in more chocolate and decorated in bold neon colours. Vanilla done in pretty pastels. Carrot and cream cheese…they also offer a rather delectable range of freshly baked croissants, French loaves, danishes, cream puffs, tarts, quiches, tarte tatines and éclairs etc – the usual range one associates with French pastries, but it’s their cupcakes that keep us going back for more. They’re just so pretty. And more-ish. Back away from the cupcakes, kids. You’ve had your turn. Tel: 738686 Map ref: W.10 Casa Gourmet Seminyak Square, Jl. Laksmana The recently opened Casa Gourmet in Seminyak Square is a similar idea to Bali Deli, offering an excellent selection of deli and imported products as well as other groceries. Tucked away in one corner of their premises they also have a tiny café, perfect for taking a break from the shopping madness that is Seminyak. While you’re there, you can also reboot your energy levels from their selection of pastries, almond or cheese croissants, cakes and sandwiches on freshly baked French loaves. The perfect mid-shopping pick-meup? One of their teeny tiny cakes, éclairs, tarts or tiramisus. While we’re all for French pastries when the urge strikes, if it’s just a taste your waistline requires, these bite-size bits should do nicely. Tel: 738026
Map ref: 0.7
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flighToffancy Lou Nietunz samples seafood at Flying Fish...and comes up trumps. Set atop the second floor mezzanine of the new O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger, a quiet seafood revolution has been going on at the up-market seafood eatery, Flying Fish. For more than six months now along the iconic Blue Ocean Boulevard, tourists and residents alike have been flocking back in droves to get another taste of Chef Wayan Wenten’s signature fusion dishes. So with pen in hand, and eyes set for seafood, my date and I dropped in to see what the flying-fuss was about. Upon arrival we were surprised by the size and scope of the venue. With seating for up to 150 guests, the indoor-outdoor spread is somewhat reminiscent of the large Jakarta seafood landmarks that draw a steady flow of fans. However, it wasn’t long after scanning the menu that it became clear that this is no ordinary market-style seafood joint. Blue lobsters eyed us eyeing them from large bubbling tanks in the corner while an array of fresh catches lined the icy display trays. Combining a medley of various seafood traditions, the selection of dishes at Flying Fish ranges from Teppanyaki grill and Sushi bar to Korean-style Kim-Chis and Italian risottos, along with a dazzling mix of East-West fusion. Oyster-lovers are also in luck as a tasty range of varieties and styles
await. We were lucky enough to meet the executive head Chef Wayan himself, as he had prepared a little tour-de-taste which included some of his newest creations on the menu. Hailing from the chilly hinterlands of Bedugul, Chef Wayan comes from a cooking-family in a region known for its temperate climate and wide range of produce. Now a revered veteran of Bali’s culinary community, Chef Wayan has worked under the tutelage of Heinz von Holzen at the well-known Bumbu Bali, as well as the larger luxury resorts such as The Bulgari. It is this 5-star treatment that he has now brought with him to the O-CE-N bali by Outrigger, overseeing the entire operation of two large in-house restaurants along with the room-service kitchens. Obviously this is no small operation, but Wenten seems to enjoy the challenge with a team of 25 chefs working under his watchful eye. Consistency is the biggest challenge, he reminds us. If the quality of taste or service is erratic, that’s when you lose customers, he says with smile. While fusion-cuisine is a term that has been thrown around for the last ten years now, it really seems something close to Wayan’s heart, which he says, is where all good cooking must come from.
If you don’t believe in it then who else will, he queries? With that said, we let the flavorflow begin. The first delicacies to arrive were the oysters, which came in two styles of preparation. The first was served in a Japanese Shooter style with Mirin, Sake and Japanese rice Vinegar. The taste was amazing, with the Sake giving it a kick and spiciness at the same time. The second style was Natural, wrapped in Shisho leaf with Green Papaya Salsa and Balinese Sambal Mentah. This method was also scrumptious, with a very crisp and delectable contrast between elements. Next up was the Seared Tasmanian Salmon and Crispy Reef Fish, served with shallots, lime leaf, coriander and red Nam Jim Sauce. The salmon was tender and poached to perfection while complimented by the crispy fried Reef Fish, similar to softshell crab in texture – and the combination was divine. This was followed by the simple yet seductive Seafood Chowder, which was thinner than usual chowders, yet thick enough to satisfy without being overly filling. For the main course, we were treated to the Retro Carpetbag Steak which is a love- affair between sumptuous Wagyu Beef Tenderloin and Pacific Oysters with
Jus Natural. As a partner to this dish was the Pan Seared Salmon Fillet, which comes with Mediterranean vegetable salsa and Bouillabaisse sauce. Pine-nuts and raisins filled out the palette for this one, and once again our tongues were titillated by Chef Wayan’s creativity. Just when we thought it was safe to breathe a little, hints of dessert began to abound. Not too long after, this appeared in the form of warm Bedugul strawberries with Balsamic and Honeycomb ice cream, as well as a warm flourless fondant filled with mixed raspberry. Both were exotic and sexy, yet somewhat healthy at the same time. The great thing about seafood is there are so many ways to serve it, and as it isn’t as filling as other fare, you can try many different dishes without feeling stuffed. The sheer range of fare on hand at Flying Fish is such that you may find more than one favourite, and can come back numerous times to try the others. We hadn’t even scratched the surface of the Teppanyaki or Sushi menus, but were now hooked – line and sinker, for a return visit. Warmest compliments and adulation to Chef Wayan and his team for creating possibly the freshest and most innovative seafood experience in Seminyak. Tel: 737 400 www.outrigger.com
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We have no idea how old he is and anyway who's counting? Paul Ropp's birthday party was a blast. Photos by J.Z.
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The stars may not be in our favour in 2010...but at least there's the Rio Carnival, FI and Burning Man. Here's our modish agenda on where to go and what to do next year, even if it does all go wrong. January We asked The Yak's astrologer Dr. Deepak what he believes is in store for us in 2010. We wished we hadn't. 2010 is a significant year in the midst of the cycles of Time. Everything in life is about Time and when life is done, we say, “Your Time is up.” Everything in life is about cycles and history repeats itself over and over again, “same, same, but different”, as they say in India. The 10 planets in the sky (including Sun and Moon) have cycles of from 29 days for the Moon to 248 years for Pluto to the Precession of the Equinox every 26,000 years. As they change signs and re-align with each other in geometric angles, things happen for us here on Earth. Sometimes, all the cycles come together at the same time and produce what a meteorologist would call the ‘Perfect Storm’. This is what happens the middle of 2010 around July 29-31. Six out of 10 planets are all affecting each other in a shape called a T-Square, which is boomboom time. Saturn/Mars opposite Uranus/ Moon/Jupiter all in a square aspect to the planet of extremes and intensity, Pluto. The Uranus-Saturn opposition has been affecting us for some time now and was most powerful on November 4, 2008, February 5, 2009, and September 15, 2009. In 2010, it will be most powerful on April 26 and July 26. This when our current economic problems began and this is when they happen again. On a personal level, this is that feeling of ‘being stuck’ that so many people are having. Try to stabilise and build, but conditions keep changing. Try to make a change, but duty or obstacles get in the way. It is the Uranus-Saturn-Pluto combination together that is really strong. It happened in the 20th Century in the 1930s (Great Depression, Nazism) and the 1960s Vietnam War, American New Age, Chinese Cultural Revolution, race riots). It
happens in the 21st Century in the 2010s and the 2040s. What happened before – economic problems, dictatorships, ultraconservative governments with repressive rules, resistance and rebellion – happens again same-same, but in a different way. Now we have new problems of climate change gone beyond the tipping point and technology so vulnerable that one super Sun Storm like the one that happened in 1859 will burn the communication satellites out of the sky.
is the beginning of a New Age and good to share it with your friends. February Blame It On Rio Did you know that way back when Julius Caesar actually gave February 29 days, with 30 days every four years? But then, in an act of fantastic vanity, Roman emperor Augustus took one day off to add to August instead…the month named after him. Which is how we come to have 28
Shanghai Expo, May 1 - October 30. What this means to us as individuals is to learn to be self-sufficient and not to rely upon the governments to solve these problems. They can’t. There are too many happening at the same time and they are happening in unexpected ways we don’t understand and are beyond our control. Self-reliance upon one’s own resources and creativity will produce a new culture of art and re-union with the beauty of nature in such a powerful way that the deadened spirits of modern man will awaken and be reborn. New inspirations, new inventions, and fresh religiousness happen during times like this. Good to expect the unexpected and to stay alert. It
days in February, and 29 on leap years. Fortunately, none of this day-juggling and losing of days in February in any way affects the hot (literally and figuratively) festivities of the Rio Carnival, which falls on February 13 to February 18 in 2010. Held 40 days before Easter every year, and finishing on the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, this wild four-day celebration, with all its excesses, can be considered an act of farewell to the pleasures of the flesh before Lent. Carnival street bands, crazy street parties, parades, sparkling celebrityladen Cinderella-balls, samba dancing, eating, drinking, dancing and general merrymaking is the order of the day. Why
wouldn’t you hop on a plane for Rio? Rio Carnival, February 13-16 2010. www. rio-carnival.net. For those of you who prefer your flesh to be kept a little cooler and treated with a smidgeon more respect for your health, you could head for the 2010 Winter Olympics, to be held in Vancouver and Whistler, Canada, instead. Running from February 12 to February 28, you’ll find there’s nothing like watching supreme athletes compete to inspire you restart that exercise programme you vowed to follow in Jan. 2010 Winter Olympics, February 12-28, 2010. www.vancouver2010.com. March Bhutan not butane Named to honour Mars, the Roman God of war, March is traditionally a month where all the partying of the New Year catches up to you and you start your new year all over again. Which is why now is probably a good time to head for Bangkok and go to war for your health by having your annual health screening. Bangkok has become the new medical centre for expats living in Asia – whether for health screening, plastic surgery or any other medical problems. Besides, when you’re not overhauling your body, there’s plenty in Bangkok to keep you busy. If you really want to overhaul your body and your life though, you need to focus on your happiness and mental well-being. Our prescription: visit Bhutan this month for a happiness kickstart. Why Bhutan? Well, Bhutan is the only country in the world with an economic rating based on Gross National Happiness, rather than Gross National Product. Steeped in peaceful Buddhist traditions and mythology, high in the Himalayan mountains, a trek over “the roof of the world” is a great way to restore peace to your own soul. If it’s good enough for such
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swanky hotels as Aman and Uma, both of which have properties in Bhutan, it’s good enough for us. (Especially if we’re staying in aforementioned swanky hotels…) www. uma.paro.como.bz.www.amanresort.com/ amankora. April Speed Demons If you prefer to be fooling around on the ski slopes, rather than being played for a fool on April 1, why not try to catch the very last of the snow season and hit the slopes in Japan? With over 500 ski locations in the Land of the Rising Sun, and the season running until as late as May, it’s a safe, snowy bet. For the past three seasons, Kagura Resort has been open until the
May Monaco, Cannes, Shanghai May has always been a very good month for motorised transport of one kind or another. The very first transcontinental railway was completed in Promontory, Utah, on the 10th of May 1869, for example. Sixty-three years later Amelia Earhart began the first solo flight by a woman across the Atlantic Ocean on May 20, 1932. May is also the month when the prestigious, and most glamorous of all the F1 races, the Monaco Grand Prix, is held (May 13-16, 2010). A veritable sporting spectacle, the Monaco Grand Prix is one of Europe's premier social highlights of the year, with the best yachts in the world
You’re not alone in caring for the real world more than you do for Paris Hilton’s latest celebrity breaking news: 70 million visitors are expected at this year’s Expo. The theme of Expo 2010? ‘Better City, Better Life’, “representing the common wish of the whole humankind for a better living in future urban environments.” Guess they’ll show you how. http://en.expo2010.cn/ June FIFA World Cup...or Wimbledon? No other month begins on the same day of the week as June. No other month has nearly the same amount of elite sporting action going for it either. First up: the FIFA World Cup in South Africa. Soccer fans from around the world will be descending
Wimbledon, 21 June-July 4. end of May, and in March and April you’re pretty much guaranteed blue sky spring skiing – no jackets required. Have a look at www.skijapan.com if you need more convincing. For speed off the slopes, don’t miss the Malaysian Grand Prix, to be held from April 2-4 at the Sepang F1 circuit in Kuala Lumpur (it'll make a change from Singapore, no?). Plus, at least this year, you’ll get your money’s worth. In a bid to avoid a repetition of last year’s Malaysian Grand Prix when the race was cut short – abandoned at lap 31 of 56 due to poor visibility – the organisers of the 2010 race have announced that it will start an hour earlier. Just in case you needed to know. www.malaysiaf1.com
visiting the Principality and drawing crowds of celebrities. For more info on how to mingle with the Monaco crowd, visit www.visitmonaco.com. If you love the glamour but hate the fumes, head for the Cannes Film Festival, which runs from May 12 through May 23. Short of the Oscars, you won’t find a more sequinned and sparkly celebrity event, plus at Cannes they’re all ‘artists’ you know… no generic blockbuster type movies here. It’s a feast for the celebrity watcher and the indie/alternative movie buff. Visit www. cannesguide.com/festival/ for more info. Don’t care a jot about celebrities? You’re in luck. Miss all the starry-eyed action by escaping to the 2010 World Expo in Shanghai, May 1 to October 30.
outfits puts a real dash of class, and an understated sexiness, in the world of sport. Whether you’re in London watching it live, or at home in Bali watching it from the comfort of your couch, it’s a fortnight of extreme excitement and emotion. Even non-tennis fans will agree. www.wimbledon.org. July The Yak Awards. What Else? Astronaut Neil Armstrong became the first person to walk on the moon on July 20, 1969. Now, much as we’d like to blow our own horn, we’d be the first to admit that receiving a Yak Award isn’t quite as prestigious as receiving that honour. This said, we do think the Yak Awards, held
Malaysian Grand Prix, April 2-4. Vroom. on the major cities of South Africa – Cape Town, Durban, Johannesburg, Mangaung/ Bloemfontein, Nelson Mandela Bay/ Port Elizabeth, Nelspruit, Polokwane, Rustenburg and Tshwane/Pretoria – between June 11 and July 11, 2010. Tickets aren’t that easy to come by though, so apply now – tickets are so in demand they’re only available on an application system. www.fifa.com/worldcup/ Using smaller, furrier balls, but no less exciting for their lack of size, is the Wimbledon Tennis Tournament in London, which runs from June 21 until July 4. The cream (with strawberries) of all the tennis tournaments, including the Grand Slams, the green grass of the courts and the compulsory whites of the players
every year in July, are pretty damn cool. And bestow a certain glow on winners, too. Every year (for those of you who have been living in a hole for the past five years) we run a poll on our website (www.theyakmag.com) asking for your help in recognising establishments and individuals of note. Vote for things like ‘Best Ad Campaign’, ‘Best Retail Space’, ‘Best Villa’, ‘Best Chef’…you get the picture. Then join us for our uber-swanky awards celebration and party. It’s fun and you’ll love it. Watch this space for more details. For a slightly more earthy celebration, the Annual Rain Forest World Music Festival is being held in Kuching, Sarawak, from July 10 to 12. An annual three-day music festival celebrating the diversity of
2010
‘world music’, the festival hosts daytime music workshops, cultural displays, craft displays, food stalls, and main-stage evening concerts, featuring a wide range of performances from traditional music to world fusion and contemporary world music. Hippy, dippy and happy. Check out www.worldeventsguide.com for more info. Need something with slightly more adrenaline to keep you running through the second half of the year? The annual Running of the Bulls in Pamplona, Spain, from July 6 to July 14 should do the trick. Or you could play it a little safer and hole up at home (or head for Scotland) to watch one of golf’s great tournaments – the British Open held at St Andrews Scotland from July 11 to July 18. Watching Tiger throw his toys, again, is possibly as adrenaline-spiking as running from an enraged bull. www.opengolf.com.
at just how well you’ll be able to ‘talk like a pirate’ after just one of the legendary 1-litre Oktoberfest beer mugs. Yep, Oktoberfest is all about the beer and, specifically, a celebration of Bavarian beer. Over six million litres will be drunk and not one drop won’t meet the Bavarian Purity Requirements set down in the 16th century. Prost! September is also the month when the Ibiza closing parties rock. The legendary Ibiza summer clubbing season
August Burning, Man. August – the month that stole a day from February. No wonder it’s ‘Admit You’re Happy Month’ – there’s a whole extra day to be happy about. Certainly, those who attend the annual Burning Man Festival, which runs from August 30 until September 6 in the Black Rock Desert, Northern Nevada, will find something to be happy about. Burning Man, which takes its name from the ritual burning of a large wooden effigy, has been described by participants as “an experiment in community, radical self-expression, and radical self-reliance”. The art theme for 2010 is ‘Metropolis’…the idea being for participants to “inspect the daily course of city life and the future prospect of civilisation.” It sounds very esoteric, and it is. That’s why we love it… pretty much anything goes. www.burningman.com
needs no introduction, all you need to know is that to really feel the heat you should be there when Ibiza goes out with a bang during the last fortnight in September into the first week in October. As Lady Gaga would say, Just Dance.
September Close Of Play at Ibiza. September… the silly month. For starters, did you know that September 19 is ‘Talk Like A Pirate’ day – recognised in most respectable countries? Truth is stranger than fiction. Adding to the silliness, why not head for the Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany, which runs from September 18 and ends October 3. You’ll be surprised
October Fashion, Film, Words The very first dinner jacket to be worn in New York made its first fashionable outing on the 10th of October 1886 by a certain Mr Griswald Lorillard at the annual Autumn Ball of the Tuxedo Club in New York. The fashion world gasped and an enduring trend was born. Given October’s fashionable New York history, it’s quite
serendipitous that the New York Fashion Week falls in this month. The crème de la crème of fashion, design, modelling and celebrity clothes hangers will be found on the edge of their front row seats as designers, both established and breakout, showcase the next big thing. Yep, from September 10 to 17 you don’t want to be caught dead in New York without your designer threads. www.mbfashionweek. com/newyork. Back in Bali, the annual Balinale Film
Rio Carnival, February 13-18. Festival brings its own glamour and style to October. The schedule has yet to be announced but if the 2009 Balinale was anything to go by this is something you really do not want to miss. Check www. balinale.com for updates on films to be showcased and screening dates. Still prefer a good book to a movie? The annual Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, normally held in the first two weeks of October, is a literary feast. The Festival brings together Indonesian and international writers, readers, artists and performers in one of the largest and most prestigious literary gatherings in South East Asia. Four days of panel discussions; literary lunches and dinners; writing
and cultural workshops; book launches and readings by famous authors make excellent bookworm fodder. For updates on 2010 dates and authors keep checking www.ubudwritersfestival.com. November Melbourne Moustaches? On the 14th of November 1896, the speed limit for horseless carriages in Britain was raised from 4mph to 14mph. Ha! The thoroughbred racehorses to be found racing the Melbourne Cup laugh in the face of 14mph. Held annually on the first Tuesday in November in Australia, the Melbourne Cup competitors can run up to 40mph. In Bali, there are always plenty of Melbourne Cup festivities to take part in. Watch this space. Speaking of hairy beasts, November is also Movember – a monthlong celebration of moustaches that raises funds and awareness for men’s health and, more specifically, prostate cancer. You can make a donation directly on the Movember Worldwide website at www. movember.com, or you can support your local groups of men growing mos…no matter how hideous they may be. December Remember December is filled with deep and meaningful moments which don’t involve the overzealous giving of overpriced gifts. December 1, for example, is World AIDS Day, dedicated to raising awareness of the AIDS pandemic. Show your support for this cause by buying, and wearing, your Red Ribbon, the global symbol for solidarity with HIV-positive people and those living with AIDS. Then, on December 10, deep and meaningful people with deep and meaningful life ambitions are recognised for their efforts at the annual presentation of the Nobel Prizes. Prizes are awarded for work done in Peace, Chemistry, Medicine, Literature, Physics and Economic Sciences. Of course, there’s no harm in celebrating all these good works…which is where the New Year’s Eve Party comes in. No matter where you say goodbye to 2010 on December 31 and hello to 2011 on January 1, make sure you do it with good friends and a dash of style.
Books
Jamie James on the enduring quality of one of the most sussessful children's stories of all time. Illustrations by Stu. The defining quality of great children's literature is persistence: It stays with the reader with undiminished vitality into adulthood. There is a certain type of gloomy old man who, for A.A. Milne's readers, will always be an Eeyore; children who read "Alice's Adventures in Wonderland" understand her befuddlement at the curious ways of the world only more acutely as they grow older. No children's book has had a greater influence on the minds and attitudes of young English-speakers than "The Jungle Book" (1894) and its companion, "The Second Jungle Book" (1895), written by Rudyard Kipling while he was living in Brattleboro, Vermount. These exciting tales and thumpingly rhythmic poems tell of the childhood and coming of age of Mowgli, a baby lost in the Indian jungle after a tiger attacks his village, who is adopted and raised by a pack of wolves and grows up to become a great hunter. Baloo, the wise, patient bear, teaches the "man-cub" the Law of the Pack, the animals' code of chivalry in the bloody battlefield of the forest. What makes "The Jungle Book" so absorbingly vital, the reason it has persisted, is its naturalism. In Beatrix Potter's "The Tale of Peter Rabbit," Mrs. Rabbit goes to the baker to buy brown bread and currant buns
for her baby bunnies; Mowgli learns to hunt and kill for food, and to escape being hunted and killed by his implacable foe, the tiger Shere Khan. The architect of Kipling's jungle was Darwin, both in that it's governed by the principle of the survival of the fittest, and in its relative paucity of sentimentality for an age that had an insatiable sweet tooth. Another fundamental reason "The Jungle Book" has maintained unsurpassed prestige in the competitive jungle of children's books is that it was literally institutionalized in 1916, when Robert Baden-Powell created the Cub Scouts based on "Mowgli's Brothers," the first story. The largest captive audience of boys ever created still adopts the names of Kipling's animals in their games, and recites a promise to do their best to do their duty to God and country, to help other people – and to obey the Law of the Pack. In tone, Baden-Powell's version of "The Jungle Book" veers closer to Beatrix Potter than to the original; yet the most significant departure of the Cub Scout's Promise from Kipling is its declaration of duty to God. Although Kipling routinely (in every sense) invoked the Christian God in his patriotic verse, he himself was an atheist. This passionate champion of the British Empire was just as hostile to Christian missionaries as he was to Hindu pandits; if there was
Books a religion he admired, it was Islam. In conversation, he habitually referred to the deity as Allah. God plays no part in Kipling's jungle; more crucially, neither does Empire, the principal theme of Kipling's life and work. Writing about animals, ironically, enabled him to observe humanity (for the animals in the stories are plainly people) without the strictures of nationalism, which eventually strangled and embittered his thinking. Written precisely on the cusp of the cinema era, "The Jungle Book" predicts that medium's power to move and excite -- a compliment returned in at least a dozen film versions. Events are narrated boldly, in a verbal equivalent of real time, and are often told from multiple points of view. Unencumbered by the need to proclaim the glory of Empire, "The Jungle Book" permitted Kipling to glory in pure storytelling, always his greatest gift. Henry James, an unlikely friend and defender, who once called him "the most complete man of genius" he had ever known, considered "The Jungle Book" to be Kipling's finest work. In no way does the rationalistnationalist genius more closely resemble Darwin than in the scientific accuracy of his observations of wildlife. The best-known story in "The Jungle Book" is "Rikki-tikkitavi," one of the many non-Mowgli tales, about the doughty mongoose who does battle with Nag the cobra. Here, the snake
makes his terrifying entrance: "From the thick grass at the foot of the bush there came a low hiss -- a horrid cold sound that made Rikki-tikki jump back two clear feet. Then inch by inch out of the grass rose up the head and spread hood of Nag, the big black cobra, and he was five feet long from tongue to tail. When he had lifted one-third of himself clear of the ground, he stayed balancing to and fro exactly as a dandelion-tuft balances in the wind, and he looked at Rikki-tikki with the wicked snake's eyes that never change their expression, whatever the snake may be thinking of." Kipling not only conveys a vivid sense of danger and wickedness but also describes the appearance and defensive behaviour of Naja naja, the Indian cobra, with as precise an eye as any herpetologist. He saw just as clearly into the workings of a boy's mind. (There are no girls in Kipling's jungle.) Boys, he knew, like to be petted by their mothers so long as there are no other boys around to see it, but they understand that the playground is the real world. The cruelty of Mowgli's code has been familiar to generations of children, who have instinctively felt the rightness of its central tenet: "The strength of the pack is the wolf, and the strength of the wolf is the pack." That first moment of reading a home truth that one already knows but has never seen put down in words is where the life of a reader begins.
Villa a
Venting In
Simona Oasis and Spa makes luxury living so easy, writes Tony Stanton. Photos: Yaeko Masuda.
One of the biggest challenges facing owners of multi-million dollar villas in Bali is making sure their properties don’t appear 10 a penny. The island has no shortage of stunning properties available for rent, but how many of these are able to differentiate themselves from the crowd? Rice field and/or mountain and/or cliff top view? Tick. Swimming pool? Tick. But how about a private spa? Well, yes, some do, and it’s becoming more and more essential these days for top-level properties to have a full relaxation facility at the beck and call of guests. The spectacular Simona Oasis and Spa has gone this route, with success. The spa at this five-bedroom destination villa however is not just another dressed up pavilion with a local masseuse. Here guests are invited into a world of calm, with the spa located on a triangular piece of land at the point where two rivers meet. The Balinese have long known about the energy that’s created in just such a spot, and recently a sacred underground spring was discovered at just this point, making it the perfect confluence of energies for relaxation and reflection. On the opposite side of the river is Batur Sari temple, where locals make regular offerings to the gods.
The spa area is hidden away to one side of the property and is accessed via a little bridge under a pergola that drips with cascading thunbergia, bounded by torch ginger, giant taro leaves and frangipani trees. Guests are greeted by a pair of openair, raised, stone bathtubs exquisitely hand carved, each in the shape of a two-headed elephant with water spouting from the trunks. The tubs, complete with ornate floral patterns on the sides, are set within a spring water pool and accessed by a wooden deck. This is a magical place for a splash or a soak after a spa treatment. The spa is comprised of five opensided roundhouses complete with conical thatched roofs following the architectural style of Irian Jaya. There are two raised massage pavilions, one with a single treatment bed and the other designed for couples, with two treatment beds. Rustic and very romantic, the pavilions are furnished with chunky hand-carved furniture and drapes that can be drawn for privacy. Set right beside the river, your massage is accompanied by the constant gurgle of water. Two more pavilions house a pair of hot and a cold Jacuzzis fashioned from dark grey lava stone; each circular Jacuzzi is big enough for six people,
The main pavillion sets a romantic mood.
Villa a
Venting In
This page: gardens are dramatic at Simona. Next page, top: the bale bengong; bottom: the spa.
and looks directly across the river to the temple. Treatments are both simple and comprehensive. A four-handed massage tops the bill in our book, but the three staff here is just as capable of doing nails or a more elaborate lulur treatment. In the villa proper, the single storey accommodation comprises seven selfcontained thatched pavilions, and is located close to the beach at Canggu. The property is heralded by a dramatic Balinese gateway of carved stone and double doors, leading into an entrance garden bordered on one side by a stone wall showcasing a magnificent carving in the design of tropical leaves. Wide lava stone steps lead down onto a grass and paving stone terrace, ideal for dance performances and cocktail parties. Two ancient frangipani trees, together with a Buddha head set within an alcove in one corner, create a peaceful ambience. More steps wind down onto another lawn towards the swimming pool. The pool itself is elevated above the garden, and flanked by a delightful bale, offering a place to relax, dream and basically do nothing. There’s even a large wooden cowbell to beat should you wish to summon someone to bring drinks, but
frankly Simona Oasis and the friendliness of its staff lends itself lends to a more contemplative approach. Three serene Buddha statues rest in alcoves watching over the garden and pool area, which is perfect for barbeques or dinners. Of special note at Simona is the attention paid to the bathrooms in each of the five bedrooms. The tubs are sheltered from the elements yet positioned within private walled gardens enhanced by soft lawns, frangipani trees, and stone carved ornaments. As a result, there’s a natural opulence afforded to bath time, and one that, when combined with the spa, brings a unique sense of rejuvenation to any stay. www.simona-oasis.com
Presidential Pads
presidential Feeling regal? The Yak visited some of Bali's poshest presidential pads.
Uma Sapna.
Holiday Inn Baruna.
Presidential Pads InterContinental Resort Bali.
Sinaran Surga.
Aqua.
The Royal Santrian.
u p c o mn i g
se asen tosa
Apartment living is coming to Canggu, courtesy of Sea Sentosa. The Yak spoke to developer Saxon Looker to find out what's in store.
The walls at the new Sea Sentosa hotel development may not yet be able to add their two cents to the talk of the town, but they will at the very least be able to breathe. Quite literally. In a first for Bali, Sea Sentosa will be using acclaimed botanist Patrick Blanc’s living wall concept wherever possible. Acclaimed French botanist cum vertical landscape designer Patrick Blanc conceived of a living wall, or ‘vertical garden’ or ‘vegetal wall’, as a way to grow plants and add to the environment without using any soil. A three-part system, a living wall consists of “a PVC layer, felt and a metal frame, providing a soil-free self-supporting system light enough to be hung on the wall, and even suspended in the air.” Able to be constructed indoors or outdoors, plant selection for these walls can be adapted to suit any climate, allowing micro-environments to be created all over the world that will improve air quality, lower energy consumption and provide a natural shield between weather and those living within this world of green. Living walls aren’t Sea Sentosa’s only nod to environmental friendliness though. Doing far more than just paying lip service to the much-talked about
but seldom fully acted on ‘going green’ concept, Sea Sentosa promises to optimise environmental practices. Water and rubbish recycling; effluent treatment; the use of renewable energy sources such as solar, wind and biodiesel wherever possible; beach and river clean-up programmes…all these and more are the environmental practices Sea Sentosa will be looking at. With all this talk of being eco-friendly, the real question, though, still remains: why develop at all? “We have to employ a degree of reality here,” answers Saxon Looker, the force behind the new development. “Progress will occur. Change and development will happen. The question everybody – and anybody involved in any kind of development, big or small – should really be asking is: how will this impact on the environment?” In the case of Sea Sentosa, the vision is quite straightforward: “Any development needs to be responsive to and reflective of what the neighbourhood people – both expat and local – need in that area,” says Looker. ”As a result of developing, the area should become a better place: greener, cleaner, with more services.” For Sea Sentosa, and its Canggu
home, this means offering a full range of services such as a community medical clinic; gym; spa; hairdresser; shops – fashion and grocery; restaurants and much more. “There are a tremendous number of people living in the area but no easily accessible services. You have to drive miles to get to a medical facility, for example.” It also means offering jobs; extensive staff training; children’s educational programmes; community river cleanup projects and recycling and rubbish disposal education… “We’re setting a new level of environmental friendliness,” urges Looker. “A new benchmark. It’s not just about using LED lighting and reducing our CO2 emissions. A development should have a higher purpose or contribution than what it doesn’t do. It must positively affect the community.” Some wonder, however, what ‘positive effect’ Sea Sentosa, effectively a highrise apartment block, will have on this 135-metres of prime Canggu beachfront, one of nature’s gifts to the world. “Building height has been one of the contentious issues surrounding this development,” agrees Looker. That said, “it is important for the public to know that we are not exceeding any of the height
restrictions imposed on buildings in Bali. We’re not even the highest by a long shot. What people need to realise is that Bali is possibly the only area in the world that has managed to maintain such strict height guidelines, and we should be celebrating that and the fact that developers do follow that.” Also, by building apartments, rather than the ubiquitous Bali villa, Looker points out that the “ecological impact of this type of development is actually much lower than a sea of villas, which would allow for very little landscaping. Our apartment development has a much smaller, lighter footprint on the space.” In a final bid to still the wave of questions, Looker is adamant that Sea Sentosa offers a new way of looking at the world of development. “I consider it an honour to develop this land and it is incumbent on us, as developers, to do so in an environmentally and aesthetically pleasing way, giving something back. As developers we must lead in terms of environmental change.” Only time, and the walls, can tell if it will be so.
www.seasentosa.com
Luxury German Outdoor Furniture
Monday - Saturday 9am - 5pm Or by appointment on +62 878 5777 0202 / bali@holili.com
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Showroom + Office:
Jl. Raya Kerobokan 72, Kerobokan - Denpasar - Bali
Fashion Freestyle www.puravidafashion.com 158
Nico Perez Tel. 738308 159
Fashion Freestyle www.lily-jean.com 160
www.bodyandsoulclothing.com 161
Fashion Freestyle www.paulropp.com 162
www.dindarella.com 163
Fashion Freestyle www.doubleissues.com 164
K&I Tel. 737025/736477 165
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Sounds Around
a v e Seaman SO Dave, where did you grow up and was your family musical? Well, I grew up in Leeds, and I was an only child. And it was pretty clear I wanted to be a DJ from early on. I was about eight years and we were in Greece on holiday, and I saw a mobile DJ set-up in the hotel where we were staying, and he kind of let me help him set-up during the day, and my parents let me stay up to watch him play at night, and it was fun, you know? He was kind of the life-of-the-party, a Greek guy, and this was in the 70s, so I blame him. And how did it grow from there? When I was about 12, there were these junior youth clubs and I used to hang around there all the time, and one weekend the guy who was supposed to be deejaying, well, he fell ill, and I was kind of thrown into it. Soon after that my parents bought me an old-school mobile disco unit with a couple of turn-tables, and I started playing around at weddings and birthday parties. So who were your musical heroes at that time? I was into all sorts, you know, being a mobile DJ at a party, you had to be able to play Rock&Roll records, and there was always a load of punks there; there were people who were in to The Jam, there was heavy metal, Goths, you had to be able to play a few records for all of them. I was in to The Jam, I was a big Jam-fan. The first gig I ever saw live was Paul Weller and The Jam, and then New Order and Electroride, that’s when I really got more into Dance music. And then I started playing on a couple of specialist Dance
shows or features on Radio1, so I also got into it that way really. Was the radio scene strong in Leeds? No, it was terrible! It was all commercial pop music, but then Radio1 started having a little feature on a Monday evening with guy called Pete Pow who was the regular DJ, and he used to have a guy called Froggy come in, who was a club DJ and he would play like three of the hot club records, so I would tune in to that every Monday, and then Robbie Vincent came along, and he would do a sort of Soul show on Sunday night and then House music arrived – and well, that’s when DJ’s started to become a focal point, really. TY: So how would you say you were first “discovered” or got your first big break? I was very lucky to be in the right time at the right place. I was into what was going on when House music arrived, and I don’t know if you saw this story on Google or Wikipedia or what, but I won a grand raffle to go to a DJ convention that DMC label was putting on in New York. They put on a convention every year, with awards and ceremonies and recognition for different stuff that people were doing in the industry, and so they had this grand raffle sponsored by Camel cigarettes and they pulled my name out of a hat first, so I got a week in New York at this conference, which at the time was like the equivalent of what the Miami Winter Music Conference is now. You know, a big industry thing where everybody converged
Veteran dance musicmaker Dave Seaman met a man in McDonald's...and his world changed. He spoke with Lou Nietunz.
from all over the world. So I was a guest of DMC, 19 years old, unbelievable! I mean wasn’t even old enough to get into clubs there at that point. So the whole point of this story, was that I ultimately got my job with DMC by talking to this guy in McDonald's on the last day I was there in New York. I had been there all week, and I was shopping all day on my last day, and this guy in the queue at McDonald's noticed I had my hat on, and he said oh, you’re with the conference. Well I work the door at a club called Mel’s, and he gave me his card, and I thought nothing of it and went back to the hotel. I got back there, and all the people from the UK were hanging out in the foyer, and they were like, we’re going out for dinner – do you want to come? And I was like, well I’ve just had McDonald's, you know, and was gutted because I wanted to go out with everybody, and was like, what are you doing afterwards? And they said they were all going to Mel’s, and I said well, I’ll see you there later, and walked off. And they were thinking, what? Mel’s is the hardest, most exclusive place to get into, which I didn’t know at the time, and they were thinking, how are you going to get in there alone? Anyway, so I met the guy later at the door, had few drinks with another friend, and 2am rolls around and I hadn't seen anybody, plus I was a bit pissed by that point, almost ready to leave, and I found them all outside on the sidewalk. They couldn’t get in, and so I told the guy at the door, these are 'me mates', and in they came! So about 2 weeks after I got back, the DMC guys said, do you want to come and work
for us? We don’t know why, but if you can get us all into a club that we can’t even get into, you must have something going for ya! So that’s how I got to go work with DMC. That is truly a classic story. So was there a pivotal moment, where either because of the crowd reaction or the venue, where you knew you had reached the next level? Well, my first actual gig in a proper nightclub would have been at Jelly’s in Stoke, Staffordshire, which was a legendary club at the time. It was where Sasha was resident. My friend, who was a photographer at MixMag, started helping with the club and Sasha was on three out of four weekends each month. And they needed another DJ to do the fourth week, so I was kind of thrown in at the deep end. I added some warm-ups for Sasha on other nights, and it was one of the best clubs in the country. You’ve been at this for a while now and you’re very prolific with your releases. Is there something in particular that keeps you going or motivated? When it comes down to it, I still get really excited when I have a bunch of new tracks that I love and want to play to people. I mean everyone has ups and downs, I guess when I’m down it’s when I don’t have a bunch of music that I or other people enjoy. Having played around the world, which would you say is your favourite destination? Well, that changes, you know? That changes at different times. Different countries have different “glory periods”,
when it's really hot and happening. It kind of goes in cycles, like all art or pop-culture. But at the moment, South America’s really hot – Brazil, Argentina. Personally, I’ve been having a really good time in Mexico and Greece, they seem to be very on, and Hungary as well – in Budapest. Is there anywhere you haven’t played yet, that you’d still like to get to? Very few actually, I’ve been very lucky! I could probably name them on one hand. I’ve been to over 70 countries. And most of them more than once…Iran, I’ve never been to Iran, Montecarlo, never been to Hawaii. How do you like to enjoy your down-time? I’ve got a family now – I’ve got two little boys, so that takes up a lot of my time. I’ve got two days off a week where I don’t really do anything, no phone, no email. Most people have the weekends off, but my weekends are usually Monday to Wednesday. Other than family time, it’s football and films. And finally, what’s your favorite footwear? Hmm, that’s kind of an off-the-wall question…erm, I don’t really know! Converse I guess! It's what I wear most these days. But I went through a big stage where I wore nothing but Nike, but these days I guess it’s Converse and Havaianas. Check out (and buy if possible) Dave’s latest release on the new Renaissance - The Masters Series. www.djdaveseaman.com
Just Doin' It
WATERWAY
We spoke to Waterbom Park’s general manager Maman Lingga about our fave family destination. Waterbom...it's now an institution in Bali. How and when did it start? PT. Bali Ocean Magic was founded in 1989 with the purpose of developing and expanding the tourism and recreation destinations, especially in Bali. There were a few facts behind this basic idea. There were very few facilities to accommodate local and international visitors that were safe and fun for the family, and there was a high demand. After going through a long process of research, Waterbom Bali was built up in December 1992 and was first opened in December 1993. What's the secret to the park's success? Keeping up the strict international standards of safety throughout the park; cleanliness; improvement of our facilities and, most of all, the commitment from all of the staff from top to bottom to provide an international standard of service to our guests. The key words of “we can do better” always motivate us to constantly improve the park. How many gallons of water do you use every day? Approximately 80 cubic meters. We recycle our water through our Bio Sewage Treatment Plan and re-use it to water our garden. How 'green' is your valley? Waterbom Bali is set amongst 3.8 hectares of tropical gardens and we are committed to keeping the environment at a high level. We have been working with a reliable company in Bali that is expert in managing and recycling our waste, organic and non-organic, so it does not destroy the environment. We have been getting some recognition from some national and international foundations and media for this and we have been named as one of the most green and environmentally friendly parks in Bali. In addition to this effort, we are currently in a process of getting the International Green Globe
certification so that we know where we stand. The most important thing is that the effort we have put into the environment is beneficial for everybody, especially for Bali as the tourist destination. Which nationalities love the park the most? Indonesian and Australian. Where does the water come from? Like most hotels, apartments and residencies in the Kuta area, our water source is from a deep water well. However, we have just been connected to the Central Water Source and are currently in the process of adding that to our water tank. What's the average length of stay at the park? Our market research indicates that people spend on average between five and six hours a day here. What's the most popular ride? Boomerang, Superbowl and the Macaroni slide. These rides have become the signature rides of our park. People just love them and want to do them again and again. Do you have a motto or credence that you follow at the park? “It’s a great day!” This means a lot for our guests and especially for us. We want to provide the best quality service in all areas. Our ultimate goal every day is to make people happy. We want them to have the best memories from their stay in Bali! How many people work at the park? Depends on how busy we are. In the low season we employ 100 people and during the busier season it’s about 150. What's next for Waterbom? Coming mid next year we will add one new ride and this is going to be one of the most thrilling waterslides ever made. It will be a first in Asia Pacific. You’ll find out next year. www.waterbom-bali.com
Raver's Review
universalfuture Lou Nietunz goes ga-ga for Tijuana Cartel and gets good looking for Bukem.
Album: Fabriclive 46 Artist: Mixed by LTJ Bukem Label: Fabric
Returning to the forefront of thinking-man’s Drum&Bass is the long-lost (or so we thought) jazzy wunderkind, Mr. Bukem. Showing us all once again how this music form should be, this champion of D&B musical rights has been gone too long. In fact, this is first D&B review in The Yak because of his absence in the last few years. While at first the drums may seem hectic, sultry sax and keys mediate to lead us on his chosen path. Proudly showcasing a stable of new talent on the Good Looking Records label, Bukem’s journey begins in style with Greg Packer’s People’s Music before veering to the more rambunctious side of things with Charles Furney’s Eerie Indiana and Madcap’s Remix of Inflated Tear. Sweet and Fresh turns a warmer tone with George Benson-ish guitar-licks and rich cyber-driven basslines. The elastic rhythm bounce that is a Bukem trademark flows ever-strong, while stings, synth-scapes and distant vocals share the horizon. Bittersweet melodies tell of lessons learned and forge on relentless with Jambaleno. The vibe turns decidedly bad-ass on Fact of the Unknown with another addictive bassline that struts with much oww-
thoritay. The organic nature of LTJ’s chord-movements and fantastically jazzy drums is hypnotic and turns even Zen-like with Japanese Shakuhachi flutes. While I did find myself missing the lyrical punctuations of former collaborator MC Conrad at times, this more instrumental palette leaves it open to re-interpretation with each listen and not so limited by voice or specifics. One wonders if future collaborations will be in the mix further down the line studio-realeases. It’s no wonder NatGeo and other nature channels now often use D&B to back-up their time-lapse growth sequences, it just fits right – marching on in grand, timeless, unstoppable fashion. While it has been a while since I least heard a Bukem album, it also took me back to pre-Millennia days – which made me feel older/slower minded for a second, but also made me smile at our pace of pleasure back then – compared to now. A trip back in time, but also a rendezvous with present-day LTJ and the future of flawless Jungle-izms. Other than Goldie and his breakthrough album Timeless, Bukem was, and still is, the reigning Godfather of the genre. Good Looking Records have never looked better!
Ever since being lucky enough to meet Gold Coast quartet Tijuana Cartel’s manager during their recent gig at Ku De Ta, and receiving some complimentary albums CDs to savour, we have been hounded by friend and foe alike to burn some copies for them – as if they had been sent in to withdrawals without their musical fix. Rarely have we seen such clamour for live tunes, but once you hear the TC-sound you will maybe understand. Combining a heady mix of Flamenco-guitar, Greek, Middle Eastern, Funk, Electronica and Aboriginal music traditions, this group has really found their own formula, or mixed up a bunch of formulas to achieve their own brand of magic. As a product of Australia’s cultural melting-pot, their recipe proved to be just as addictive to ears over here. It is the sound of cultures collaborating, celebrating each other's strengths and
differences that makes TC’s vibe so enjoyable. A truly international affair, the vibe is somewhat reminiscent of Manu Chao’s global-groove albums, weaving pop-culture samples into folksy Dub and Funk vibes. A sense of humour and the joy of creativity is ever-present throughout. Perfect for lazy Sundays or nomadic road-trips just the same, the sound of TC wanders with confidant curiousity. The sound almost turns Underworld-meets-INXS on the more Techinfused offerings, but pulls back and forth playing with your sensibilities from beginning to end. Be sure to get your own copy of all their albums online and definitely catch them (or book them) live should you get the chance. It is the sound of a more universal future for all of us. www.tijuanacartel.com
Album: They Come Artist: Tijuana Cartel Label: Indie
yak
Astro
moodofthemoment
By Dr Deepak | astro-deepak@usa.net | www.astronlp.com | Skype: drdeepakvidmar
The Big Picture: The taller the mountain, the better the view. The taller the mountain, the harder the climb. The world’s governments and economies can see the problems and they have made the plan, but wishful, optimistic thinking delays any meaningful action that should be taken. Delay, delay, hoping the wolf at the door will just go away. The Individual Picture: Almost literally, the ground beneath our feet shifts and shakes and stability of the infrastructure upon which we have relied is not reliable anymore. We have to rely upon our own resources and initiative. Cardinal signs (Capricorn, Libra, Cancer, Aries) will have a harder struggle, while the Earth signs (Capricorn, Taurus, Virgo) will have support to get the job done. You are not just your Sun sign. Each person has 10 planets in different signs and where the Cardinal signs are is where your struggles are at this time.
Time to make a new plan about where to go with your life. You need to include the other. You can’t do it by yourself anymore. Your separateness was always an illusion anyway. You need to be part of a team, even if you are the one far off scouting ahead. Your relationship may not be so juicy anymore because you have taken it for granted. Your friendships are inspiring because you share a common vision and common goals. The paradox is that your relationship is reliable, but your friendships are more about hope than reality.
taurus
You take your eyes off the ground beneath your feet and look beyond the horizon up high into the sky to see what is behind the clouds. A sort of religiousness is part of you now that wants to understand the meaning of it all, the purpose of it all, the end of it all. That which tells you where home is, where your soul can rest and feel secure, is true. That which tells you the practical ways in which you can bring the clouds to Earth is true. Your high goals are achievable, but consider carefully in which direction you take the first step.
gemini
Your mind soars to new heights of spiritual and meaningful and mystical understanding, but it is your emotions to which you should be paying attention. It is those emotions which you have hidden and kept secret that can give you power. It is those unresolved emotional issues against which you have erected defenses that hold you back from finding and feeling your power. It is through the old pain you find your new power, the power to be intimate, the power to survive being vulnerable and
open in the warm arms of a deep and universal love.
nose and smell the roses growing there just for you.
capricorn
cancer
All the energy is about the home, the partner, and the Other in your life. The energy is intense, either intensely empowering or the other way. If you are not getting the security and nourishment that you deserve, then it is time to travel to greener pastures or to find the Teacher who can be your guide. This is a time to lift up your eyes to see the big picture that we are all part of the same family and that everyone plays his part. Every stranger should become a family to you and every tyrannical authority just a naughty child. Naughty children deserve love too.
pay the ticket to that spiritual destination you are always heading for.
libra
Saturn transit can have two sides. One is a feeling of heaviness and too much responsibility. The other side is a welcoming of responsibility and a new level of self sufficiency. Both sides involve nose to the grindstone and hard work. The only difference is whether you enjoy the work and want to do it or not. Both sides involve an inward turn of Aloneness and meeting of your own needs rather than asking others for help. This is not the most sociable, extroverted time of your life, but it gives you a depth of maturity that can be called Charisma.
Your job and it has always been your job is to save the world from itself and turn this planet into a habitable place to live. Your contribution is yourself and your gifts of organization and hard work. Nothing is for yourself. Everything is for The Plan. Don’t worry about the money or resources. The more practical and useful The Plan, the more you will be supported. Increased responsibility comes with increased authority and duty calls. Your satisfaction will come with the achievement of each step of the way toward your ultimate goal.
aquarius leo Now that you have soared to new spiritual heights, now is the time to tie your shoes. Dot your I’s and cross your T’s. Pay attention to the little things. Clean out your closets and sharpen your pencils. Perfect your skills. Make a plan for your health that includes diet, exercise, and medical checkups. Do the medical, but google research any recommendations they make. One-third of all medical research is fraudulent or simply wrong. If they recommend statins for the heart or cholesterol, you might not want to do it.
scorpio Networking, networking is important to you now, brothers and sisters particularly. How long has it been since you have called or written? Are you staying in touch? Same, same for your neighbors. How long has it been since you have taken over your favorite dish and said hello. This is a social, communication time for you now. You don’t have to share your feelings, just your thoughts. Also a good time for learning, learning and writing, writing. Research deeply into the hidden depths of what it is you want to know.
virgo
sagittarius
Things go up and things go down. This is a time at the peak of a high wave in a 12-year cycle. Jupiter transit and a lot of planets in the 5th House. Yahoo. Joyous energies. Trust in yourself, a zest for life, and creativity to spare. Time to play and express your inner child. Making money is not the priority of your life now. Whatever inspirations and insights you have will lead later to the perfecting of more skills, but there should be no goal or purpose to what you do. Just follow your
This is a money making time for you and it is good to focus on this part of your life for awhile. Gurdieff calls it ‘codified experience’. It enables you to trade it in for the experiences you want to have. Salvaging, re-conditioning, re-modeling to make things useful and valuable again is good. Good fortune about the home in some way. Feelings of self worth increase according to your stability and self sufficiency in the material world, particularly when you can afford to
This is when the drop melts into the river and the river melts into the sea and all-is-one and nothing stands apart or alone. This is when the tree blends into the forest and the grain of sand blends into the beach. This is absolutely the most mystical time of your life. The reason to stop the mind is so that it will come back a different way. The reason to drop the individuality and the self is so that it will come back a different way. Let your heart open to the emotions of all the others and forget yourself for awhile.
pisces Not only your spirit guides are watching over you, but all your friends as well. This is a time of friendship for you in this world, the greatest wealth a person can have. You find beauty through friends, you find identity through friends, you find your power through friends. You have certainly earned them through your kind and caring ways. More joy is available to you now. More zest for life and laughter is available to you now. Maybe the urge for travel and adventure crosses your mind. Self confidence is at a high.
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