The Yak #20

Vol. 20 SEPT/OCT/NOV 08 • Warung Culture • Top Draw • Fly Boys • Time for Bed • Road Rage...

IDR 48.000 : S$9 : HK$45 : €3.50

Issue Twenty

Sept/Oct/Nov 2008

Cover photo: Lulu (www.lulu-bali.com). Photo by: Steve King. Model: Alexandra Vasilchenko

THE YAK / THE BUD Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Michelle Lamb Consulting Editor: Nigel Simmonds, CV Icomm nigel@icommbali.com Publisher’s PA: Katarina Taslim Project Manager: Evi Sri Rejeki Sales Marketing: Accounts Manager: Robin Pasaribu Yani Mulyani Graphic Designers: Irawan Zuhri, Novan Satria Distribution: Made Marjana, Kadek Arthana, Putu Widi Susanto, Made Sutajaya Publisher: PT Saka Wahana Cipta Licence: 1.265/09-04/PB/V/99 Advertising enquiries: Tel/Fax: (62-361) 737 413, 743 1804, 743 1805 www.theyakmag.com Email: info@theyakmag.com theyak@indosat.net.id Jl. Kayu Jati 9Y (Loloan Restaurant) Petitenget 80361 Bali, Indonesia © PT Saka Wahana Cipta No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher.

Opinions expressed within this publication are those of the authors not the Publisher.

The Yak and The Bud will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors. minYAK, The Yak’s monthly e-newsletter, is distributed every fourth Friday.

Inquiries: info@theyakmag.com

contents

26 28 34 40 42 46 50 54 62 68 76 82

102

VENTING IN A VILLA Counting Karma

IDOL BANTER Downtime NEW IN THE HOOD Around Town CULTURE VULTURE Warung Culture THIS MUCH I KNOW Barack Obama

104 106 114 118 122

INCOMING Madison INTERVIEW Andrei Simanjuntak FEATURE Mixed Blessings SPOTLIGHT Horse Play JUST DOIN' IT Fly Boys

126

FEATURE High Life

DUOVIEW Two Love ORAL PLEASURES Rude Food BIG SIX Pasta Parade CONSTANT WINING Red Alert FREE RADICALS Maternal Instincts

YAK AWARDS 2008

PENT UP IN A PENTHOUSE Top Draw DWELLING ON A DWELLING Dream Construct

86 94 100

INTERIORS Sweet Suite Dreams BEING GREEN A River Runs Through It OVER THE EDGE Northern Light

132 140 142 152 154 158 160

YAK FASHION Road Rage MEMBERS OF THE CLOTH Tiger Lily FASHION FREESTYLE Fashion As They See It RAVERS REVIEW Musical Muscle SOUNDS AROUND House Call YAK MAP Don’t Get Lost AD INDEX Who’s Who

Idol Banter

Yak Back...

Yakety Yak… THE creative use of downtime…Downtime? A luxury that seems to be disappearing as rapidly as Bali's southern rice fields, or is it just me? Have we all moved into the fast lane of entrepreneurism? And are we finding that time does indeed 'fly'? And is what we achieve by the end of the day less than what we intended to? Seems so, seems so…

However, that is obviously not the case for you, dear Yakkers, as we have done most of the groundwork for you. We have chosen what makes 'the grade' and what will be the most creative use of your 'Downtime'. So while we stick to our obligations - uptime (up•time: n the time during which a computer or other machine is operating or ready for use) please get ready for this issue of The Yak to assist you with your obligations – going out and enjoying your venerable selves and making the most of your Downtime. With this issue we take you on a journey further into Yakland, where our first stop will offer an artistic, yet quirky, look into a Culture Vulture with a touch of the Warung Lifestyle. Then we interview the old - the teachers of Barack Obama - the young – Madison from Uluwatu Lace - and the bold - Andrei Simanjuntak from Bali Nurani Drug Rehabilitation Centre… before turning our attention to Mixed Blessings and a touch of Horse Play. Then Jamie James highlights the real reasons as to why we live in Seminyak - only to 'bed' down in Bali’s Top Drawer penthouse at the Anantara Resort. Then we Dwell on a Dwelling with the Wilsons before finding which riverside properties are worth a visit. We dream Suite Dreams before meeting the couple that made Women’s Tennis an annual International Bali staple with the Commonwealth Bank Tennis Classic. Rude Food introduces our newest cuisine characters and why not have a one-on-one with celebrity chef Bobby Chinn, as we put Bordeaux on a Red Alert. The Yak Awards 2008 arrives just before our Maternal Instincts, whereupon we Vent in a Villa and get a touch of Road Rage before we get invited to the 'next level' - Ku's new roof top bar - Kuvé.

We hope you enjoy your downtime, we know we shall - if we ever get one. And remember - may The Yak be with you!

The Yak in the lap of...

Kiera Knightley...

The Tone Dear Editor, Not too sure about the tone of your magazine, they call it 'irreverant'. Why be so?

Worried...HK. Ed: Labels, labels, labels. Life is too short to make our own...and we are not in the garment business...!

Desperately Seeking I heard that typhoons are not part of Bali's climate... however are there any tycoons around that can do the same thing?

Regards - Cyclonica Ed: Haha. Not sure we know any, but we are sure they exist, hence having to move the office into the house for two days while we all went through a force 7!

Caracas Calling Dear 'elena, Someone gave me your number...

You are not answering your phone why?

Confused - Rama Ed: Coz' I am not in the garment business! and my name is not 'elena...

The rake-thin star with the plummy accent was in Bali, but remained seriously undercover.

Which is hardly surprising given that she arrived with a very hunky chap in tow.

Kick-Ass Choppers I heard your fashion shoot took place in Kickass Choppers last month. How can I get to be part of your next fashion shoot?

Regards, Diva from Jakarta

Ed: You need to be discovered in Bintang Supermarket, then you need some great equipment, some awesome post production - if you haven't done the Botox thing already!

Home House - Portman Sq. London Dear Yak, I found your magazine in-room at Home House - Portman Square-bound - and it was so not England! Enjoyed the read how can I subscribe?

Willy Windsor - UK Ed: Well yeh - the sun shines in Bali...!

Re subscribe: Don't worry we will personally deliver copies - by appointment only! See you at Home next time we are over...

Yak Awards Sadly I could not be there this year but knowing what fun I had last year I am sure that I should not have missed it... However better winds & beaches called!

Nubbin - Tarifa.

Ed: Hi Nubs - Whatever, whenever . Would be nice if you could make it next year - maybe organise a 2 week-nanny service for your 8 dogs? Muah2 Bloomin' Tours I am coming to Bali with a group of friends - we hope to visit some tropical gardens.

Do you have any suggestions?

R Stevens - UK Ed: Botanical Gardens Ubud, Bedugul and Munduk - maybe Milo's orchid garden?

New In The Hood

Dandelion French children’s couture – the one we love but can generally never afford. That tide thankfully changed when Dandelion breezed open their delightful shop on the north end of Jl. Seminyak, a.ka. Bansangkasa.

Expect to find paisleys and prints for the girls and sailor blue and jeans for the boys; quality cotton T-shirts for everyone – and design, design, design all round. It makes you want to be four again. Sob. Yak map ref.: I8 Tel. 730375

Food for Life Enjoy the food in Bali? Want to recreate the experience and flavours? And want to giveback to a community? Then Food for Life is the cookbook you need to get.

Now in its second edition, the Food For Life Foundation gathered Bali’s best chefs in order to compile some of the best recipes around into a full-coloured, high quality recipe book. The first charity cookbook in Indonesia costs only Rp.50,000 and is available at Periplus and numerous hotel and restaurant outlets. Keep in mind that all monies collected go to support the Calvary Clinic in Papua, a.k.a Irian Jaya. Go to www.foodforlifebali.org or call Tel. 742 5098 for more information.

Mien Petitenget’s most fabulous set of windows (right next to Daydream) bring a touch of China to our interiors. Old world, new world and a few antiques made to order, lacquer red is definitely back in fashion. Mix with some very comfortable sofas, some outstanding wall panels and some reasonable nick knacks besides and there you go – hey presto – a favourite hangout for those who love to shop.

Yak Map ref.: C6

Teaching and learning with a difference The Green School at the Kul Kul Campus, near Ubud, links learning to life and aims for lifelong moral and intellectual growth. This is the school that will teach the generations to come – the next generation of leaders – social and environmental responsibility. They envision a generation that has never used a plastic bag. One that doesn’t know the word “organic” because all food is, and one that thinks the developing world is synonymous with environmental leadership. The Green School is a non-profit, 21st-century model embracing sustainable practices in education and entrepreneurship and opens in the fall of 2008. Isn’t it time that education took the lead?

Tel. + 62 361 469 875

www.greenschool.org

Unconditional Furniture Varnishing, servicing, even waxing all just flew out the window when All Weather Furniture was introduced to Bali. Duo Quality All Weather Furniture is the brand of choice. Duo’s outdoor furniture withstands whatever the weather throws at them: snow, rain, sandstorms and more importantly sun exposure – I hear it is all in the Vibro fibre. With their own manufacturing arm and three showrooms based in Bali, Duo uniquely offers high-end designs, quality and service. Their product is fully warranted for three years, almost unheard of from other dealers, hence they are selling to professionals and individuals for projects around the world. Head down to their new showroom in Nusa Dua and see the handmade designs for yourself.

Tel. 8475976

www.duoallweather.com

New In The Hood

Religion This 300-sq-metre store is Boutique Street’s new landmark. Punk meets romance, the feminine meets the masculine, and it’s where good girls turn wild. The Religion brand creates clothes with a hard attitude out of seriously feel-good cottons. And there as many threads for the boys as there are for the girls. Religion has never felt this good.

Yak Map ref. F8

Long glass Bar Solutions Time to graduate...into the formal art of cocktail making with master mixers Steve Collinson and Grant Collins from Bar Solutions at their newly opened Bar School. If you like the tipples at Ku then sign up for an exclusive impartation of the Belvedere Vodka Master Class. The first class starts September 18th between the hours of 2pm and 5pm. Finally it’s time to be a Master of something! Private group tuition is also available. Of course.

Tel.: 08123835247 www.barsolutions.com.au

Dreamburgers as Fingerfood Three years in the making and it might finally be happening. The wah wah burger has made it to town, somewhere in between Ku De Ta and d’Legian Hotel. There is a slightly raised balconette (with a roofette of alang-alang) where, if one is to believe what one hears, we will at long last be able to relish four of the most gourmet burgers of all. The claim is that they have redefined the Art of the Gourmet Burger: that it is 'd’tastiest and d’horniest' burger in town, the vegetarian one being the exception, of course. I, a few friends and a couple of Yak Award guests have actually savoured these delicacies, and yes, they are all that they are made out to be. So here’s to crossing our fingers that we will finally get our fingers around finger-sized burgers any day of the week. Yum. Yak Map ref.: C7 Tel. 081818349809

in the

New In The Hood

State of the Art Silq Location and luxury go hand-in-hand at Silq. Private butlers, private pools, and private Jacuzzis complement 17 luxurious Junior and Penthouse suites. Elegant throughout, there is not a detail that this new addition to villa-land has missed. State-of-the-art furnishings, innovative in-room technology, luxury bath amenities, rain showers and, most importantly, a fully stocked mini bar. Silq is five-star flying all the way…

Yak Map ref. F3 www.k-hotels/SILQKerobokan Lilla Lane This high-end accessories boutique has recently opened their second store a tad north of their first, and is now in walking distance from Ku and in the midst of Boutique Street.

Frocks, tops, shoes, bags, belts and way, way more, ideal to find that little something that you are looking for. Oh, and another thing...really helpful staff!

Yak Map ref.: D7

hood Oceano This is a one-stop shop for the babes on the beach and that goes for both sexes. Boardshorts galore, DKNY jeans and Nico BLUE menswear mix with a touch of Gap and Old Navy. And for the girls, Nico Mare brings the one and two-piece lycras to the fore, with soft cotton T’s and, tucked at the back of the shop, you’ll even find some sexy G’s.

Yak Map ref. F8

Hypnotique It’s all happening at Seminyak Square – Laksmana’s new shopping courtyard. Hypnotique has opened up a lounge bar of hypno-therapeutical proportions. This soundproofed boite de nuit serves up some pretty fabulous cocktails, an interior design with a liquid theme and a whole range of tunes spun by Bali’s best soundsters. Open from 7pm-3am, this new nighttime venue is guaranteed to be a hit – plus there’s parking!

Yak Map ref.: D7

Culture Vulture

Culture Vulture

Culture Warung Culture, as seen through the sensitive lens of photographer Natacha, from Tao Dao. Check out her website at http://artcircle.wordpress.com.

Culture Vulture

Culture Vulture

Bali – Fish Restaurant The sand fluorescent red As sun curtails The beach is complete With human souls Families and soccer players sharing Neptune’s pitch The tide attacking; Flecked retreat Of fetch’s forage Tidal sacred offerings Sailing and bobbing Tourists choosing Which fish restaurant; Guilty of not Choosing all of them The “boys” Finger spiraling The menu No animosity; Just fate Colours bounce In the volcanic sky Incense sticks Glowing in sand, Fanned by Wind element In spawned sunset Spirit is not Religion bound; It transcends; It liberates.

It is the source Heart and soul Equals spirit.

John O'Sullivan Bali. May 2005.

Culture Vulture

Charlie in Bali Charlie Chaplin (or at least his celluoid self ) returns to Bali after 76 years to help promote the BALINALE 2008 International Film Festival, to be held between the 21st and 31st of October. Chaplin arrived in Bali in 1932 at a time when he was the world’s most renowned cinema artist. Now rare footage of his visit is helping to breathe life into the second annual film event, which aims to promote local and international film making.

Chaplin’s visit here was somewhat typical – a one-week stay soon stretched into two after the famous film pioneer and comedian discovered what the island had to offer. He ran into Al Hirschfeld, the well-known American caricaturist, who had drawn him before from the screen, but never “from life’. Al and his friend Walter Spies first introduced Charlie to Balinese music and dance.

Charlie Chaplin - Circus End (Courtesy of Roy Export Company Establishment).

Unsurprisingly, Chaplin found the Balinese very receptive to comedy and on several occasions was said to have amused them with his own unique brand of humour. The New York Herald, in June 1932, described him as watching two girls learning to dance. “When they finished, Chaplin picked up a pair of wings used in the dances and started doing an imitation of a bird flying. In a few minutes, the bird tired, did a “Leon Errol”, and finally, completely overbalanced, fell on its back with feet high in the air. The natives found him hilarious and for the remainder of the day Chaplin had an admiring group clinging to his hands.”

For more information contact: Bali Taksu Indonesia Foundation, Tel: 270 908, Fax: 286 425, info@balinale.com, www.balinale.com

This Much I Know

Our Man in the

White House?

The next president of the United States – potentially – grew up in Jakarta. Liana Rosnita spoke to some of the people who knew Barack ‘Barry’ Obama when he was a kid in Indonesia.

“BARRY stood out not only because he was chubbier and taller than everyone else, but also because his clothes were always neatly pressed and his shoes were clean,” recalls Ibu Israella Pareira Darmawan. ‘Barry’ is Barack, as in Obama. Now 64 years old, Ibu Is was Obama’s first grade form teacher at the Franciscus Assisi School in Jakarta. Obama attended that school up to third grade. Forty years ago, even socks were considered a luxury, but Barry never allowed what differences he may have possessed to matter.

“In the beginning, the other children would certainly make fun of him,” said Ibu Is, “but I never saw Barry get upset. He would only laugh. And when other kids got into fights or other kinds of trouble, he would help them. Soon, the kids would trail him wherever he went. They started to look up to the same person they used to tease.”

Obama’s second grade teacher, Ibu Cecilia Sugini Hananto, shares the same memories. There were other foreign kids at Franciscus, but Obama was a different case.

He had to overcome fresh taunts from new classmates every year, yet his leadership qualities were already apparent. He turned negative situations around by putting his stature, for example, to good use. “He was bigger than the rest, so if there was a fight,

all he had to do was to go there and the kids would stop and run away,” she says.

Obama spent his third grade in between Franciscus and Besuki Primary School. Pak Effendi SPD (Sarjana Pendidikan) taught Obama at Besuki, now known as Model Primary School Menteng 01.

Although he hardly understood the local language, Obama participated in the singing of school songs. Be they Pancasila or Bendera Merah Putih, he would sing along with the ceremony. Pak Effendi sits up straight in his chair as he says: “But he could not sing!” He sits back and laughs.

“We would sing Syukur together and he really could not follow the tune. Although the other kids laughed at him, Barry would carry on. But…” he raises a finger ”…he was very good at painting. He would paint superhero pictures of Batman and Robin. And even though he did not always know the correct answer, he would always raise his hand to reply to a question.”

At Besuki, before lessons, Obama’s usual spot would be on a bench at the front of the classroom, ready to call upon his classmates after breaks. Once, Pak Effendi joined him there. Obama turned to ask him, in Indonesian now, “Sir, where do you stay?”

After three years in Jakarta, Obama could

speak the local language quite fluently. Pak Effendi replied, and Obama had more questions: do you like being a teacher? Is it an easy job? “Barry was already interested in people, even at that age,” he said. “I hope he will become the new president of the United States. He will be the one to bring peace into this world.”

All of Obama’s ex-teachers remember him leading his classmates into class when the bell rang. ‘Bersiap, gerak!’ Obama would shout. ‘Ready, move!’ and they would listen, stopping their chattering and forming neat lines before entering the classroom. Ibu Sugini relates a now widely-known essay that Obama had written. Entitled ‘My Ambition’, it was penned in Bahasa Indonesian.

She remembers that it was a rather short essay. In it, Obama started by writing his name as Barry Soetoro – after his stepfather, Lolo Soetoro – and that he was from class 3 SD at St Francis Assisi. He said that his idol was ayah, or father, and that he had many friends in school. He also wrote that, one day, he wanted to become President…

Pak Effendi, for one, is delighted at having been Obama’s former teacher. He keeps a Manila folder with newspaper cuttings, business cards and other Obama-related mementos. With the help of Ron, owner of

Amigo’s restaurant in Mega Kuningan in Jakarta, Pak Effendi has written to the U.S. Embassy’s Field Director, William Tuchrello, for support in allowing him to travel to America to meet his old student. A Hawaiian native (like Obama), who now owns a business in Jakarta, Ron feels a strong connection and desire to make this happen for Pak Effendi and so will sponsor the trip.

Pride is a common denominator held

by Obama’s ex-teachers. And they all share the hope of better relations; not only between the U.S. and Indonesia, but between the whole world, with Obama at the helm of the superpower nation. “He will support the little people,” says Ibu Sugini. “He will not forget what it was like to live in a kampung, together with people of varied backgrounds. He could bring the clarity and openness that he learned from childhood into politics.”

To have shaped the mind of the potential President of the United States is perhaps a wonderful opportunity to sin some bragging points. But Ibu Sugini begs to differ.

“Barry’s success so far, and I hope for his sake that it will continue, does not stem from his teachers, but from deep within himself. It was clear since the first time he arrived, at a young age.”

Incoming

Madison

Incoming

We were starting to feel old and out of touch, so we hunted round for a Bali baby and asked her some tricky questions. Madison Primmer Setiawan to the rescue.

Hello. What’s your name?

Hello. My name is Madison Primmer Setiawan.

How old are you?

21.

What do you do?

I am marketing Manager for Uluwatu – Handmade Balinese Lace. I’ve known the company for as long as I can remember.

It has been such a prominent part of the fashion industry here. I’m honoured to be working together with a team of people aiming to preserve a traditional Balinese art form, taking pride in hand-made creations and steering away from the temptation of mass production.

Where and how did you grow up?

Where? Bali. How? Fast! Born, bred, raised on “The Island”. From when a Rp2,000 Magnum was considered expensive and our house was one of the only buildings on Jl. Laksmana. My G.I. Joe married my Barbie on Pantai Petitenget and my school bus was a grey beat-up Suzuki Carry. Racket ball and bakso on Blue Ocean, sailormoon battles in the rice fields, dancing and first kisses at Warung Tapas and typhoid and lice somewhere along the line. Wouldn’t

have had it any other way!

Honestly, what was the first thing that went through your mind when The Yak called and said we wanted to interview you?

I’ve seen the line-up of people you’ve featured, and considering I don’t own a villa or a boutique, am not a chef or a novelist…I was surprised! But thank you. Would love the headline to read something groundbreaking or influential, perhaps not now… but there’s still hope. Maybe in a few more years.

Your myspace page (yes, we do our research!) says you’ve had ’21 years of fabulousness, scars and all’. Tell us about the scars. Or the fabulousness, if that’s more comfortable for you.

Oh wow, fabulousness? Sounds so much worse when you read it back to yourself.

What was I thinking, I sound like Kimora Lee Simmons! Nevertheless, it is true. Scars? We are all faced with challenges, some heftier than others but each of significance. We have a choice, to dwell on them and shrink ourselves or take what we can from them and move forward with lessons learned and heightened strength.

What defines children born and brought up in Bali, do you think? Are you going to take over the world?

Are you kidding? We’re half way there.

We’ve been very fortunate, with the many luxuries of our lifestyle. It’s a blessing as much as it’s a curse but in the midst of the comfort, every community has its uniqueness, we’re no super race! I speak for myself but I feel it is our bond and sense of togetherness that sets us apart. There seems to be a unity in diversity. A massive family that we’ve all created. Your friends, your second mum, your third dad, your om and tantes, your brothers and sisters, your bibi – mbok – mas – beli – dadong and kak. They’re all of different ages, professions, backgrounds, personalities and cultures. All of whom have helped us become more confident, adaptable and eager to step foot on every part of the world. We’ve been inspired and supported by the most eccentric, creative and fun-loving people you’ll ever meet. As a result of it all, there is such an awesome spread of talent in the children brought up in Bali. Everything from surfing to the arts to fashion to business and the list goes on!

There seems to be a hunger to reach great

Incoming

ness, to aim high.

How come you all got to be so grown up for your brief time on this planet?

MSG! Ha ha. Gives you the total Popeye effect! All of the reasons above and we’ve been given a sense of freedom, physically and mentally. I guess you could say we were encouraged to pave our own paths and develop our own opinions. The influence and creativity we’ve been surrounded by have not only created the ultimate playground but the ultimate canvas. To express yourself freely, to converse and interact with a mix of cultures and ages, its not so much that we are grown up, because we have plenty of that to do, but we are open-minded and can relate to a variety of different people and situations.

What’s going to be different in your generation, compared to the generations that came before you?

A lot of our parents were born or landed foot in an untouched Bali. Love bloomed in all forms. Love for Bali itself, whilst Cupid wasted no time orchestrating the unions that spawned me and many others. From the stories and the photographs, it’s shocking to see how drastically Bali has changed in such a short amount of time. We keep paving paradise. The generations before us have been a part of the development and are now focusing on the sustainability. Soon the baton will be passed. The world is changing, whether we choose to believe it or not. Nature’s sending its messages. Though we are now still learning and growing and focusing on ourselves as young adults, soon I feel it is our responsibility to truly give back and take care of the island that we all call home.

Is there a single concept, or word, that defines you and your friends?

FUSION BABIES! In every sense of the word.

We’re of infused blood, minds, heritage, languages, colours – a.k.a mutts.

What’s the lowest depth of misery, would you say?

A world without chilli and massages! No, I must say losing a loved one.

What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given?

Perhaps not the best, but I like this simple philosophy – dance, sing, floss and travel.

What’s wrong with the fashion trade in

Bali?

Denim. Or rather the lack off. There is a whole anatomy to a good pair of jeans and I’ve yet to see a brand nail it. Basics – plain tee’s, shirts and singlets – surprisingly hard to find. Underwear – for both men and women, ’tis rare to find the combo of comfort, quality and style. There’s also the sometimes sensitive subject of the “copy”.

Need I elaborate?

What’s right with it?

The island has such a versatile range of independent designers, both of Indonesian ethnicity and international. Each with their signature style and each playing oath to the craftsmanship of the country. The boutique market is expanding and designer collections keep getting braver and juicier.

What's the best thing about business?

Business is one way to bring your creative ideas to reality, having them appreciated and on offer to the public. At the same time, we all need to eat and usually a business aims for profit and profit keeps the tummy filled.

Is God a man or a woman?

Do you really want to spark up this debate? Ha ha. I have no doubt of something beyond all of this, an energy and higher power that creates and governs our existence. Having spent countless nights with friends and family, accompanied by wine, dim lights and guitars, contemplating why, how, what...to the point your mind explodes and you end up singing along to Keb Mo’s Victims of Comfort. My father is Muslim, mother is Christian, my boyfriend leans towards the Hindu of India and I’ve been raised in such a rich and unique Hindu dharma culture – confused much?

I wear an om, rudraksha beads, the Allah symbol, celebrate every Christmas and find myself praying to God. So, the verdict – I respect and am open to all perspectives, I grasp the beauty and faith from a pallet of different religions but haven’t quite figured out what God really is… yet.

Who’s the coolest person on the planet at the moment?

Barack Obama and am drawn to actors and singers beginning with “J” (James McAvoy, Justin Nozuka, Jeff Buckley – to name a few).

There’s a dog that’s been run over on

the street, but it’s not quite dead, and it’s writhing on the floor in pain in front of you. What do you do?

Mission Animal Rescue hits full force. I immediately call Dr. Anom, my trusty vet. A car is on the way. Afraid to move the dog for fear of causing more damage or pain, a quickly formed crowd stares at me simply observing and smirking at the loco chick concerned over an animal. Within 15 minutes, a purple Taruna appears in sight, battling the g-force, screeching to a halt, docs already half way out the car before it comes to a stop. The team pull out the gadgets, an examination is made and the dog is carefully lifted into the car. We travel as a brigade, hazard lights on as if our license plates were red. We wait, we hope.

For no living creature is less important and my soft spot for my fluffy friends has taken over.

What country or culture holds an interest for you, apart from Bali and Indonesia?

Everywhere! If there’s one thing I know for sure, I’m going to try my best to globe trot as far and wide as I can. Recently visited Mexico and fell in love with the Latin vibration. The colours, movements, scents. The spice and sensual nature of the people. So South America is high up on the list. At the moment a group of friends and I are saving and aiming for a Euro trip. I love the fact that so many completely different countries are nested on one continent, each with such a different culture from the next.

Would you move countries for love?

Definitely. A big reason why I stayed here was for Love. What is all of this worth without a love to share it with?

Would you ever go to war? When is it ok to fight?

Aarrgh...war. Never ending is it. Fighting for something you believe in, defending yourself and uniting for a positive cause is one thing. I don’t support weapons and this aim to destroy. This is a sensitive subject and a massive political issue. Anger is sometimes necessary to drive people to want to make a change but it seems war only adds to the problem, there has to be a less violent solution. Education, raising awareness, protesting, volunteering for humanitarian and environmental causes.

Can you imagine being 70 years old?

It’s hard to. I have a slight Peter Pan syndrome. Wherever I am I hope it’s still green and lush, with grandkids on my knee and a ridiculous collection of orchids and antiques. A wall decorated with photographs of a colourful life, a diary of crazy memories and some faded tattoos reminiscent of a time in the past. A wedding ring worn for over 40 years by the same man that still thinks I’m darling even with the wrinkles and mood swings. By 70 I hope to be able to pick up a guitar and play all my favourite songs with a few of my own and fix up a killer meal! Hope I’ve made some kind of a difference both in the world and in the people that I love. Brushing my long white hair I hope to look in the mirror and never have had any regrets, laughing at all the nonsense and smiling at all the fun I’ve had and continue to have.

There's a famous English poet called Philip Larkin who wrote a poem called 'This Be The Verse'. It starts like this: "They f**k you up, your mum and dad/ They may not mean to but they do/ They fill you with the faults they had/ and add some extra just for you." What do you think about that?

Oh yes, I’ve heard of this very verse. Isn’t there a book with the same title? Our parents are human after all. They’re bound to make mistakes. At some point you have to lift the blame for your imperfections and get on with it. I’m still learning how, but I’ll get there eventually. It goes back to the ‘Scars’ question. There are a lot of things my parents say and do that I don’t agree with at all, but at the end of the day I see how I have my mother’s hands and father’s smile, mum’s loud and strange humour and dad’s wild side. They’re my parents, I am the product of them, they only have my best interests at heart. Wouldn’t trade them for the world.

What’s the worst question you’ve ever been asked…

Would you rather be an ant in an air-tight plastic bag at the bottom of the ocean, or a horse stuck in a massive box floating on top of the ocean. My brother between the ages of eight and 11.

Madison, thank you for your time. It's been illuminating!

Interview

Addicted to Love Drug counsellor Andrei Simanjuntak is that rare find – an old hand at helping others.

What’s your name, sir?

Andrei Simanjuntak.

What do you do?

I’m a drug counselor.

Where do you do it?

Yayasan Bali Nurani Drug Rehabilitation Center, Denpasar.

What is that?

The organisation that I'm running is a 10-bed facility and our program is a four-month residential Primary Care based on the Minnesota Model of treatment, followed by an optional Halfway House program, also for four months. We have treated 60 clients so far, 60 percent of them fully subsidised, and 30 percent paying partial fees. We focus on those who cannot afford treatment but demonstrate strong willingness to get clean. About 50 percent of our graduates are still staying clean and participating in the Recovery Program of Narcotics Anonymous. Right now, we are combining the Halfway House program and the Primary Care under one roof, which is not an ideal therapeutic setting. We are looking for funding to build a separate facility for the Halfway House and to continue our operations next year.

How do you do it?

Anything from text-book client-centered counseling/therapy approaches, to “whatever works” at the end of the day – when all else fails…

What makes an addict?

Someone is called an addict when he or she experiences loss of control over mood-changing chemical use or activities.

Do we become addicts or are we born as addicts? Is it genetic, like baldness or blue eyes?

A million dollar question! One that even experts in an institution as sophisticated as NIDA (National Institute of Drug Abuse) in the States is still debating.

I wish I knew the answer, I’d be rich. There’s definitely evidence of a genetics factor at play, as often we find addicts having relatives or parents who are also addicts.

Can we be cured of addiction?

Another money question. Again, because the base theory on addiction is still not clearly defined, there

are many different opinions out there. The two major ones are the medical community, which deals with it from a medical standpoint with a combination of medicine and psychotherapy, and the other is from the recovery community, as represented by Alcoholics Anonymous and Narcotics Anonymous, support groups of ex-users who see addiction as a life-long disease and only by maintaining participation in its programs can one prevent from relapsing back into active use. Not one approach can claim total success and there are many shades and variations of each, some overlapping, and with other theories thrown in (behavior modification, religious approach etc) that make up the weird and wonderful world of addiction treatment. But the bottom line is, not one theory can claim to be the sure-fire cure for every addict, every time.

When does a habit become an addiction?

The main feature is loss of control, along with an obsessive and compulsive drive, which if kept up, will usually alienate the person from his or her normal social circle and responsibilities and produce other undesirable outcomes, such as deteriorating health, financial troubles...

Is there such a thing as a healthy addiction?

Well, if the person is behaving in a way that fits the above description and he or she still maintains that it’s healthy, that’s what we call “denial”.

When was addiction first recognised? I mean were there addicts in ancient Rome?

I would say that treatment of addiction (using methods other than shackling them down in some mental institution’s basement) is relatively new.

Probably starting around the 1930s in the United States they started to look deeper and recognise addiction as a treatable condition. As for addiction itself, it certainly isn’t just a 20th-century phenomenon, as many luminaries from Coleridge to even Freud had been rumoured to have struggled with it. Alcohol and opium use has been recorded for thousands of years, and as long as those two are around, I think we can safely assume that there were a few wayward individuals hooked on them as well.

What about CS Lewis? Was he on drugs?

He was a missionarist in disguise as a children’s books writer, not cool enough…

What about the use of hallucinogenic drugs to attain a higher spiritual state? Is that a good thing?

I once saw in one of those weird “Faces of Death” type videos that there’s a tribe in Africa whose idea of attaining a higher spiritual state is to dig a hole in the ground and copulate to it until they ejaculate to stimulate union with their mother earth goddess…to each their own, I guess…live and let live.

Let's say we’ve done the 12 steps and we’ve read the Big Book. It’s a 70-year-old doctrine. Is there anything new in the way we treat addicts today?

For me, 70 years is relatively new to other well-being related science, such as medicine, psychology, yoga, etc. So it is small wonder we don’t know that much about addiction and how to treat it and more research and funding needs to be funnelled into it.

Is nicotine the most addictive of all drugs?

No, romance is...ha ha, just kidding…Nicotine-related deaths are considerably higher than the other chemicals, however, up there with alcohol.

Is addiction a sign of weakness?

That’s a matter of opinion, there are many out there who think religion is a sign of weakness….

Does being an addict mean you’re always addicted to something? I mean, can you become addicted to rehab, for instance?

I don’t think anyone who’s actually been to rehab will say that. Again, many schools of thought vary in their definition of addiction. People in the 12 steps movement insists that once you’re an addict, you always are, even though you’re not necessarily in active addiction.

What’s the link between fame and addiction?

Don’t know. We have a lot of street addicts in our place, no sign of Robert Downey, Jr. yet.

When was the last time you were happy to see an addict?

When an addict just coming off drugs appeared on our doorstep and decided to seek recovery… www.balinurani.org

info@balinurani.org

Interview

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Interview

Pass Master Pelé called him one of the greatest footballers alive, so we thought we’d better interview Dutch soccer legend Clarence Seedorf while he was in Bali. Sure enough, he had the patina of a star…

So Clarence, can football save the planet?

Well, we can say yes. Used in the right way, with the right people, the right commitment, the right values, the right structures, football can make a major make contribution in a positive way.

How? Football can be a bridge to differences of culture, and it can be an instrument for education.

Education, as said by Nelson Mandela, is the strongest instruments for peace in the world.

And it can be used to help kids grow. Football is the biggest entertainment property in the world, billions of people are fans of football. The final of the Champions League, for instance, has been watched by over a billion people. I did an interview once with an audience of 40 million or 50 million. It’s major exposure. The question is what do you say, what do you do, what messages do you send.

So what's wrong with football?

Too many games, generally. There should be more quality and lest quantity, I believe. It's generally not run as efficiently as it should be and that generates a lot of problems, too many to mention.

Who is the best player in the world today?

Christian Ronaldo has had an incredible year.

When did you first kick a football?

I don’t remember but I was told I was two.

Do you come from a privileged background?

No. Well, privileged in one way, in that I had the love of my parents during my whole youth, but not because we were financially stable. I didn't have too much when I was young but I was a happy kid. In the end it is all about the love you get from your parents, brothers, family friends, and if you have that, together you will always find a way.

In a few words, what makes a great footballer?

Winning mentality. Talent. Hard work.

Do you drink alcohol?

No. Have you ever drunk alcohol?

No. And I don't smoke either.

We didn’t ask you that one. We thought it might be a question too far. Are there footballers who smoke, then?

You would be surprised.

I guess we would be. Do you love being famous?

Yes, I love it for my mission in life and I love that it doesn't feel like a pressure and it helps me to achieve what I want.

What attribute do you most value in a friend?

Loyalty.

What’s you greatest fear?

I don’t live by fear. So I wouldn’t be able to answer that.

Do you believe in God? Yes I believe in God, or whatever you want to call this higher spirit.

How would you like to die?

I haven’t completed my mission, and that’s going to take quite a while so I am not really worried about dying. I know I have a lot of things to do yet.

And what is your mission?

My mission is one of reaching as many people as possible to promote peace and education.

I am starting now and I know have a long way to go. And I am building brick by brick towards completion of that, not only through social projects but because I believe in profit for non-profit, so I am trying to build sustainable businesses to help me to fund other projects and be more independent.

Clarence, thank you very much for your time. Shall we have a beer now?

You’re a funny guy.

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Feature

Feature

Relationships between foreigners and locals have been happening since the first outsiders arrived on these shores. But, as these people tell us, mixed marriages are not without their challenges. Text by Michael Travers. Photographs by Natacha.

THE KUTA COWBOY AND THE HIPPY TRAVELLER CHICK “We got married because it was something to do. Something neither of us had done before,” says Fran Putrawan.

“We met on May 9 and were married on July 11. We would have married sooner but Ketut’s sister said it wasn’t a good day.”

Fran met Ketut, an original Kuta cowboy, in Bali in 1977 when they were both 24. “He was this gorgeous super skinny, long-haired beach boy calling himself ‘Funky’ (foon-key)” says Fran. “We started seeing each other and that was that. I had no money so he asked me to move in with him in Denpasar.”

“A friend told me there was this new girl in town who played guitar so I went to check her out. I sat outside on the street playing my guitar and waited for her to walk by,“ says Ketut. “That was 31 years ago and we are still together today.”

Two weeks after the wedding Fran went back to Sydney where she worked three jobs to save the money for a ticket to get Ketut to Australia where they stayed for 24 years. “It was hard,” says Ketut. “It was so bloody cold! Fran was pregnant with our first son and I applied for a job in a timber

yard. I had never worked before in my life and it was so hard, working in the pouring, freezing rain. But I made a promise to myself. I was here and I had a family to support so that was it. When Leo was born, I cut my hair. I was going to be a good father and take the responsibilities properly.”

“A big problem was the racism,” remembers Ketut. “Australia is a very racist country and I used to get stressed from always being called a ‘black bastard’, and all those kinds of things but I learned to retaliate and then it eventually stopped affecting me.”

Twenty four years and two children later they came back to Bali in 2002 after the boys had grown up and moved away. Fran now runs the Kuda P riding stable in Canggu and Ketut is a fully certified sports therapist, a certification he picked up during his life in Australia.

Ketut reckons that one of the main reasons why their marriage has worked is because they started the relationship away from the Balinese community. “It would have been much harder if we had stayed here because this culture is so patriarchal. We couldn’t have lived the life we lived in Australia. Fran would have had to really go deep into the Balinese way of life and I would have had to become so

heavily involved as well. We would have been very different people.”

“I suppose the thing we have learned from each other is tolerance,” says Fran. “We never analyzed our relationship at all; how long it would last or even if it would last. We just got on with it, just being us, together. It’s all we’ve ever known.”

JAVA-JAPAN JIVE Ronnie is from East Java and Mayuko is from Osaka, Japan and they have been married since March of this year. Both work at Studio 5 in Bali, a company specialising in Japanese weddings and the place where they both met. Ronnie speaks fluent Japanese.

“I had just started working here in Bali and when I had to get my visa there were many problems. Ronnie was helping me via email and telephone, both here and in Japan and we just grew closer and closer,” says Mayuko, describing how they fell in love.

“My parents were very happy with my decision. I had always said to them that I would never get married, so they were happy that I was getting married at all,” says Mayuko.

“My family were also very happy,” adds Ronnie. “My brother

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or Japan. If I wasn’t married to an Indonesian man it would be difficult for me to live here for a long time.”

“And as for me,” says Ronnie, “I am just happy that I met such a beautiful, generous and wonderful woman as Mayuko.”

is already married to a Japanese girl and living in Tokyo, so they are quite used to the mixed marriage thing and having a foreigner in the family.”

“The big challenge in our relationship is that I had to become a Muslim to marry Ronnie,” says Mayuko. “It wasn’t as easy as I thought it would be. I can’t eat pork any more and I miss it. Pork is a very big part of the Japanese culture and diet and it is seen as very good for your health. It was a part of my daily life. My first Ramadan is coming up in September so that will be a big challenge for me to fast all day as well. I have always lived freely, it’s in my nature. I decided to move to Bali to live and work here because I had that freedom. I was very happy with that free life, so it’s not mentally easy to follow the rules set down by Islam for praying and diet, etc.

But, I am trying.”

“It would have been difficult for me, as well as for my parents, if she had not converted to Islam,” says Ronnie. “I am quite a devout Muslim and it is important for me that my wife is too. However, I cannot force her, she has to feel it in her heart. If I encourage her too strongly then she may get crazy or be unhappy and I don’t want that. So if she wants to do it, then I will be happy.”

The challenge for Ronnie is how to make Mayuko comfortable to become a good Muslim in her heart. “I hope that she can really believe from her heart eventually, but for now she is still very new to it.” Mayuko reckons that, “the good thing is that I now have a choice to live here or in Indonesia

GEORGE AND PUTU GEORGE and Putu (not their real names) are restaurant owners in Bali. They met 11 years ago and were married in 1999 in a Balinese ceremony. “My father was afraid that George was going to take me back to England and he would never see me again. But I explained to him that George wanted to stay here forever in Bali, and he gave us his blessing,” says Putu.

“The biggest problem we face in our marriage is the Indonesian bureaucracy,” says George. “The foreign man gains no rights from marrying an Indonesian. I still have to have a work permit despite the fact that I have two half Indonesian children. Last year when we went for a bank loan for our business, Putu had to get the head of her village to re-issue her KTP national identity card to say she was single so we could get a loan. If it says she is married and the bank manager finds out the husband is a bule, then the loan would be denied.

“Everything we own: the house, the business, are all in Putu's name, so there has to be a lot of trust on my part,“ he laughs, “and because of a bureaucratic cock-up with our wedding certificate, if anything was to happen to Putu, then the house would go to the government and our children will miss out. The notaries told us we could get divorced and married again in the same day to rectify it but that’s laughable. We have to put everything in her brother’s name to ensure that the children get their inheritance. I have no legal recourse to family rights in Indonesia as a foreign man married to a national.

“But culturally the hurdles are tiny for us. I think that for every mixed couple it depends upon the length of time you have been here before you get married,” reckons George. “I think I had covered most of the adjustment to the culture shock before I even met Putu. I had been coming here since 1986 and didn’t meet her till 1998, so I had a good 12 years to get to know the place and spoke pretty good Indonesian.

“In a bicultural marriage there are two ways of doing everything, so you can pick and choose the best aspects of each. For example, we participate in some ceremonies but we don’t let it take over our lives. We just do the ones we feel are most fun and worth doing,” says Putu.

“Being a bule, I am involved in the family to a degree and I participate in certain ceremonies but I don’t have to get involved with the village council, which would take up a lot of my time. I also get to have trilingual kids,” says George. ”At home we speak a three-way pidgin language of Bahasa Indonesia, Bahasa Bali and English. It’s great and I wouldn’t have it any other way.”

Feature

All photographs by Natacha, Tao Dao, http://artcircle.wordpress.com

Spotlight

Spotlight

Four legs good, two legs bad…what is it we love about horses?

The Yak quizzed Sabine from Bali’s Umalas Equestrian Resort

to find out why we’re so hot to trot. Photography by Lucky 8.

Spotlight

What's your name?

My name is Sabine Kaufmann.

What's the name of your stables?

The Umalas Equestrian Resort.

When did you start riding?

When I was six years old.

So how did the stables come about?

I have spent time with horses since I was a child, and I finally realised, with the help of my family and friends, my dream of opening my own stables.

How many horses do you have there?

At the moment we stable 32 horses.

Where do they come from?

Some horses are imported from Europe, Australia and Malaysia. Most of the tour horses are crossbreeds from Java.

Do you take care of other people's horses? We heard some people arrive in Bali with their horse 'in tow'.

At the moment we stable seven privately owned horses.

What's different about your stables, compared to others in Bali?

We are a riding resort with guest rooms and restaurant. We are the only riding school with professional instructors.

Do we need to have riding experience to visit and enjoy?

Beginners are welcome for lessons and our tours. We choose the horses and type of lessons depending on our guests’ riding ability.

What kind of rides do you provide?

We offer lunge, dressage and show jumping lessons, half-hour rice field tours, two and three-hour beach tours, and pony rides for the youngest.

What's the most popular 'route'?

The two-hour beach tour.

How do you care for the animals?

It takes a lot of care in the tropics to fulfill horses’ needs. Most of the horse food is imported from Java. In this humidity horses need a lot of grooming and showers after each ride, as well as very clean stables. There are many staff looking after the horses here.

We employ 14 grooms, two instructors and a farrier. All our horses get daily free time in one of our paddocks. We conduct our tours in the early morning and late afternoon, to

protect the animals from the tropical heat.

The horses have a daily lunch break from 11.30 am until 2.30 pm.

What are horses all about? What do they like/dislike?

For me, personally, horses are the most elegant creatures. I love their free spirit and the loyalty they feel towards other horses and humans.

Can you tell when a horse is happy?

Yes! Horses are happy when you treat them with respect.

What's the strangest thing about horses, would you say?

They are physically much stronger than humans, but they still allow us to guide them.

Spotlight

Spotlight

Spotlight

The Life

Why I Live in Seminyak We were going to write a snappy subhead here...just read this superb article instead. By Jamie James.

Everyone I meet in Bali wants to know where live. I always say Seminyak, but I actually reside in Kerobokan, a village that according to tradition (and the Indonesian post office) extends as far south as Pura Petitenget, adjoining Seminyak. But in the 21st century, real estate agents have reinvented Bali's western coast between Kuta Beach and Umalas as a glittering tropical Ibiza, populated by tanned, bling-bedizened blonds, and rebranded it as Seminyak. After Ku De Ta and other gilded-lilywhite pleasure palaces opened here and started getting written up in international newspapers and magazines, Seminyak became a brand name you could wrap some serious price mark-ups around.

Beyond the beach, Bali's foreign residents have viewed this development with horror. For the noble gentry of the ancient landed estates of Ubud and the gentle stargazers of Sanur, the villa-fication of the upstart west coast is an invasion by sleazy barbarians who couldn't tell the difference between the legong and the kecak if their next Cosmopolitan depended on it.

They have a point. However, when my partner and I decided to leave Jakarta and return to Bali in 2004, the choice of where to live was settled: Bonita was opening a restaurant on Jalan Petitenget, so I followed him and set up housekeeping in a snug apartment with a terrace overlooking a cow pasture, just down the road from the warung. I was glad to be by the sea and near the airport, and once my computer was set up in the study, I got to work and didn't think much more about it.

Yet I soon discovered how bitter antiSeminyak feeling had become. Time after time I would meet seemingly nice, interesting people in Ubud or Sanur, and just as I thought we were making friends, they would ask me where I lived. When I answered Seminyak, they would wrinkle their noses with disdain, as though I were soliciting contributions for the George W. Bush Presidential Library, and ask, "Why do you

want to live there?"

Before I came to Bali, I had never lived in a place where people took such a keen interest in exactly where I hung my hat.

Admittedly, I had only lived in two other places in my adult life, New York City and Jakarta. In New York, there always seemed to be more interesting things to talk about; the subject never came up unless the conversation drifted into street parking regulations or where to find good mozzarella. In Jakarta, knowing where someone lives tells you little about their prosperity or good taste, as most quarters of the city have handsome houses side by side with slums (or tacky McMansions spoiling venerable urban kampungs, depending on how you look at it).

Yet in Bali, people seem to think they know a lot about you once they learn which banjar claims you. If you live where I do, it seems, you have a lot to answer for.

Since there has been so much interest expressed in the subject, here, officially, are my reasons for living in Seminyak.

The sea. The gorges and paddy fields of central Bali are gorgeous, but what's the use of living on an island if you never see the sea? Dusk on Sanur Beach with a full moon rising is one of the most sublimely romantic sights anywhere in the tropics, but the Badung Strait is a weak cup of tea compared with the majestic surf of Legian Beach. Every day if it's not raining, I call at one of my neighborhood haunts and look across the Indian Ocean into the offing, braced by a breeze that hasn't crossed land for thousands of miles.

The culture. Don't laugh. Soon after we moved back here, I was driving down Jalan Legian one fine day and came to a roadblock manned by pecalang, Balinese religious cops who were diverting traffic from a ceremony. Instead of getting annoyed and taking the detour, I parked and walked down the street on foot. I found an elaborate temple ceremony in progress, with a corps of beautiful child dancers performing

in the middle of the street. It was every bit as moving as a ritual at a forest temple, with the joyful clangor of the gamelan echoing off shopfronts selling string bikinis and fluorescent-pink Buddha paintings. It was all the more moving for being a surprise.

Another night I discovered a wayang kulit performance at my banjar, an impeccably traditional presentation with oil lamps behind the scrim, which was staged by the local fathers for their sons. Ten meters away, Jalan Legian was heaving with tourists in search of cheap beer and a date for the night, but here children were forming a deep attachment with the island that made them.

The notion that Balinese culture comes to an abrupt halt south of the Dewaruci roundabout is a vast oversimplification – actually, it's false. Pura Petitenget was founded 500 years ago by a holy man from Java and remains one of the most important temples in Bali. Ubud is justly famed for the magnificence of its rituals, yet as I have gotten to know people living throughout the island, I've discovered that Ubud's assertion of cultural primacy irks some residents. Many people, Balinese and foreign, find the pomp and ceremony of Ubud's public rituals overdone, if not pretentious.

Me, I love it. The saving grace of spectacular cultural displays like the recent cremation of Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa, Prince of Ubud, is that they are for everyone in Bali, and foreign visitors are cordially invited.

If my 10 years' experience in Indonesia has taught me anything, it's that generalizations based on arbitrary correlates like geography (or race or religion or nationality) are usually false. Not everyone in Ubud spends the evenings sipping twig tea and thinking serene thoughts, and the muchmaligned villas of the west coast harbor smart people doing interesting things. At gatherings of foreigners anywhere in Bali, I find that after the third bottle of wine, the conversation is equally likely to turn to the price of real estate or who's sleeping with

the driver.

If anything, I would give Seminyak the edge when it comes to open-mindedness.

The raffinĂŠ foreign residents who look down their noses at the fleshpots of Seminyak usually have little curiosity in the world beyond this island; yet around here people are more likely to take an interest in our host country and the world beyond. The snobs who wrinkle their noses in disdain when I say I live in Seminyak usually have the same reaction if I speak approvingly of Jakarta. A few long-time foreign residents of Bali have told me with some pride that they've never been to Jakarta. "Why would I want to go there?"

Er, because it's an immense, fascinating city, the great metropolis of the archipelago and the capital of the country we live in?

Obviously, Jakarta has its problems. It's a filthy place, with filthy air – but so are Cairo and Bombay and Mexico City, and how boring are they? Besides, let's face it: Bali isn't the tidiest place in the world.

It's part of a Balinese person's job to believe that Bali is the centre of the universe.

Perhaps it's an island thing: I lived in Manhattan for 20-odd years, and people there feel exactly the same way. New Yorkers may have a greater objective justification for their belief in the cosmocentricity of their island than the Balinese do, but it's just as illusory. In either case, the only way to maintain the belief is never to leave the island.

Of course I'm generalizing in exactly the way I was just criticizing. I have friends in Sanur and Ubud with brilliant minds, who take as lively an interest in the world as they do in the cosmos; and sometimes Seminyak does seem like a convention of the world's tacky white people. But there's a certain honesty to even the trashiest party animals' dealings with the island: they're punters who pay in cash.

As guests they may not be very polite, but at least they understand that that's what they are, and don't suffer under the illusion that the island needs them.

Just Doin' Do It It

Just Just Doin' Do It

Why paddle when you can soar? Welcome to the somewhat precarious world of kite surfing, a highly dangerous sport that's, well, taken off. By Michele Cempaka.

THE idea of using a kite to boost speed and gravity for the surfer may seem like a novel challenge, yet the art of kite surfing actually dates back to 13th Century China, when the fundamental idea was used as a simple mode of transportation. It was in 1992, however, that two Breton brothers – Laurent Ness and Raphaël Salles – began kite surfing in Languedoc-Rousillon, France.

The popularity of the sport skyrocketed, and by the late ’90s, Laird Hamilton and Manu had taken kite surfing to the Hawaiian coast of Maui. Today, more than a quarter of a million people engage in Bali’s latest craze.

The Yak met up with Mario Bari, from the Rip Curl School of Surf in Sanur, to find out more…

So what is the lifestyle or philosophy behind kite surfing?

Kite surfing allows you to travel; it’s very mobile because you only need a small bag. The equipment doesn’t require much space. You can easily go around the world.

Before, when there was only windsurfing, you had to carry a board which was about two to 2.5 metres with a mast and a boom and sail, so there was a lot of weight. That’s the life. Travelling with wings in your bag.

How has the sport evolved over the years?

In the beginning, everybody was using a wake board, but then it spread into different styles of riding. These days we have foot straps instead of bindings, so that you can perform tricks by removing the board, enabling you to jump very high in the air. Later, it became more like a surfing phenomenon, because you could do kite

surfing on the waves. Now everybody wants to ride waves with the kites, so they just use a surfboard with foot straps. It gives the surfer more possibility to enjoy many waves. The experience of doing this kind of sport that utilises the wind is just amazing.

How long has kite surfing been around in Bali?

It’s been here for the last eight years.

Is it dangerous?

Kite surfing is considered to be one of the most dangerous sports in the world. It was even more so before, because the quality of the equipment wasn’t really safe. Because it’s a very new sport and it has attracted so many people, manufacturers have started making improvements to the types of material and quality of construction of the kite. Every three or four months over the last

six years, they’ve been coming up with new equipment. At the moment we’ve reached a level where it is kind of safe to kite surf, if you learn in the proper way. It is definitely not a sport to learn by yourself. That’s when people get hurt.

How did you learn to kite surf?

I taught myself how to kite surf and I nearly killed myself twice. Some people are not as lucky as I am. When I started to kite surf, there was no kite surfing in Indonesia, so I went to Italy and saw this guy kite surfing on TV. When I saw that I knew that I had to have it, so I bought it and brought it here six years ago, but nobody could teach me.

There was no instruction manual and there were no teaching methods at that time, so I had to teach myself.

What kind of equipment do you need?

Just Doin' It

Just Doin' It

Before we used two-line kites. You can steer with this kind of kite, but you can’t change the power. Now we have a four-line kite that allows you to steer and change the power, so it’s more reliable in gusty wind conditions. This is connected to a control bar. There is also a board, which can be one of four kinds: a wake board, twin tip or bidirectional board (exactly like a wake board except with foot straps instead of bindings), and a directional board, which only goes in one direction; and then there’s a mutant board, which is in between a twin-tip and a directional. It’s got a front and a back so, if you want to, you can ride it backwards.

There are also two types of harnesses, either

a waist or a seat harness, which you hook yourself to. It’s also good to have sunglasses to protect your eyes from the sun and the splashing water. Some people think it’s a good idea to wear a helmet, because the board can hit your head or you can crash on the reef. Many riders wear impact vests, because when you land the wrong way from a 10-metre high jump, the water can be pretty hard.

What kind of board would you recommend for a novice?

That would depend on wind strength.

For example, if there’s a very light wind, I’d prefer to give you a directional board because it gives you floatability. If the wind

Just Doin' It

is strong, a directional board becomes difficult because you can’t edge much and will end up getting dragged downwind, so you need a smaller board. It really depends on the wind situation and what you want to do. Basically when you start, you learn first to go in one direction and then how to perform turns. It would be easier for you to start on a directional or mutant board when you go in one direction, but when it’s time for you to improve your turns, it’s better to use a twin tip.

How does kite surfing fit into the range of other water sports on offer in Bali?

Unfortunately Bali isn’t the best wind destination in the world, so kite surfing is limited to those months when we actually have wind. This is usually from the middle of May until the middle of September, when we have more constant wind, so we can

do it on a daily basis. Whereas with surfing, rafting, snorkelling and other water sports, you can do them every day. You can still do, for example, wind surfing, if you have just one or two knots of wind, but with kite surfing you need at least eight knots. If you don’t have eight knots then you’re kind of struggling. To really enjoy it you need 13 knots or more.

What can someone expect to experience when kite surfing?

Excitement, very good fun and a lot of action from the first time you get into the water.

What is the story about the local ‘fly boys’ who are into kite surfing?

I have a lot of staff working for the club and they have started to learn because they see me going out and are excited to do it. The sport is kind of expensive because of the

board and kite, so it’s not really affordable for many people. But now that kite surfing has become more popular, there are many people kiting, so there’s lots of people second-handing. Many people come to Bali and when they leave they just give their kites to the local guys. Thanks to this club, lots of locals started getting into this sport.

How many competitions do you hold throughout the year at your kite surfing schoolw?

In the last three years we’ve managed to do one a year. This year,w we’ve already had a ‘Hot Air Third Edition’ and another one for the Sanur Village Festival in August.

What is the best thing about kitesurfing?

You can learn very quickly and you can enjoy yourself from the start, because without trying you’ll be performing jumps…

Just Doin' It

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First Class to Bali...is there any other way to travel, asks the mercurial Marian Carroll?

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These pages: Air Bali.

Once renowned as a budget destination for surfers, backpackers and Australian families looking for an alternative to the annual road trip, Bali's grown into a favourite haunt of the world’s wealthiest – and by definition most demanding – people.

Times are a changin’, and Bali is rolling out the red carpet to make an unforgettable first impression. Among those who grace our tropical shores are movie stars, rock stars, royalty, heads of state, sports stars and corporate executives who make the world’s rich lists year after year. Recent guests include Microsoft founder Bill Gates, Mexican telecoms tycoon Carlos Slim (who recently overtook Gates as the world’s richest man) and King Abdullah II of Jordan. Then there are the anonymous travellers who make no claim to fame but have the means to travel in comfort and style.

These are people who don’t want to sweat it out in economy, legs buckled, necks craning and eyes squinting to see the onboard movie on the shared display monitor.

They – or should we say 'we' – detest jos-

tling for elbow room to read a book or risk the soggy, over-salted mush that somehow passes for food.

No, these are people have been born to or earned the right to put a curtain between themselves and the riffraff and enjoy the comforts of first-class travel: ergonomic seats that recline into beds, fine dining at 35,000 feet (courtesy of world-famous chefs), top shelf liquor, enough space to comfortably hold business meetings, large touch-screen monitors for movies and games, and the use of mobile phones onboard. The list goes on.

As they say, once you fly first, there's no going back. In fact, the next step up would be to book a private jet, which is of course an option. Just don’t try to argue with Al Gore over the ‘Inconvenient Truth’ of using a plane all to yourself to go on holiday.

But how you get to Bali is only half the fun. As soon as the landing flaps go up, everything from helicopter pick-up to private bodyguards await you to ensure the smoothest trip you’ve ever experienced.

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Small and sweet: Your very own private jet. Or slum it in a helicopter, below.

Bodyguards and Butlers Roger Segond von Banchet, an ex-Dutch marine, runs a ‘close protection’ business throughout Southeast Asia called 4Cast Security Solutions, which provides bodyguards for high-profile VVIPs who come to Bali on vacation.

Although they travel usually with their own entourages, VIPs need a resident bodyguard to provide the local advantage: language skills and familiarity with the culture, road knowledge to advise evacuation routes, and logistical assistance.

For this reason, Roger’s been appointed to Bill Gates’ permanent security entourage, joining his team whenever the billionaire philanthropist travels in the region. This included a recent day-trip Gates undertook to Bali to play golf with Indonesian president Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono.

“Some clients are a bit sketchy about Bali in the beginning,” says Roger, “but Bali’s not a hostile environment and my goal is to see that they go home and tell their friends that they had a great holiday and didn’t actually need security, it’s that safe!”

Roger’s team consists of both Indone-

sian and foreign men and women, mostly ex-military or ex-police. They’re multi-lingual and work with local police, military and private security companies, which provide the next level of ‘perimeter’ security and are armed in case use of a weapon is needed.

None of Roger’s officers is armed.

“We are pro-active to prevent problems,” he says. “We’re all experts in martial arts and will use our bare hands if necessary, but luckily so far we’ve never had to, due to our advance preparations before the client arrives. This is the most important part of our job.”

These preparations include a complete security check of the resort or villa where the client will stay, as well as the vehicles they’ll use, and arrangements of all logistics for their arrival.

Roger and his team often meet clients in Singapore and fly into Bali with them, providing protection literally before they even touch down. Otherwise, he meets them on the tarmac at Ngurah Rai Airport and escorts them to the VIP arrival lounge of The Bali Concierge, which fast-tracks airport clearance to get clients to their hotel

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as efficiently and comfortably as possible.

“Most people just want to get to their resort quickly to begin their holiday in earnest,” says Lia Rosliawati, founder of The Bali Concierge. “Some VIPs don’t even like to wait around for their luggage, so we arrange their transfer as soon as their passports are stamped, and the luggage is sent afterwards with an aide.”

Apart from 4Cast Security Solutions, Lia welcomes guests on behalf of Bali’s top resorts, including the new all-suite and villa St Regis in Nusa Dua and others in the higher end of the market The Bali Concierge’s service includes a personal 24-hour on-call butler to meet you on the tarmac and to escort you to their lounge (assuming you don’t need a bodyguard).

The butler hands you a pre-paid handphone with which to contact him during your holiday to arrange anything you wish, and he takes your passport and luggage tags and races off to fast-track immigration and customs clearance. Nice.

Jump the queues This is the biggest advantage of the VIP arrival service. Forget about queuing up for your passport stamp and jostling at the baggage carousel while trying to fend off the solicitations of freelance porters.

Instead, sit back and relax in The Bali Concierge’s well-appointed lounge with drinks and canapés, while your butler takes care of everything for you in record time before most other travellers have even reached the immigration queue.

You don’t even have to front up to the immigration desk for clearance; Bali Concierge vouches for you, that you’re indeed the person pictured in the passport delivered by your butler. The only time you even come close to officialdom is when you’re whisked through the special ‘crew’ immigration exit and past the customs checkpoint (under the envious glares of others) to your waiting car right outside.

By Road or Air The absence of limousines in Bali is but a mi-

This page and overleaf: First Class lounge life courtesy of Lufthansa.

nor irritation. (We did enjoy a brief fling with limos: a fleet was borrowed from Jakarta for the hundreds of VVIPs who attended last year’s UN Climate Change Conference, but unsurprisingly Jakarta asked for them back as soon as the conference ended). Instead, Bali Concierge arranges a Mercedes or other luxury car and extra treats are provided for the journey. The St Regis, for example, serves refreshments and its delectable St Regis Truffle, as well as offering a selection of CDs to listen to.

Regardless of whether you wait for your luggage, it always follows in a separate vehicle. It would be a shame to mess up your pedicure or scuff your shoes with bags tucked around your feet, after all.

Many VIPs opt to avoid the roads and traffic altogether, instead enjoying a scenic helicopter transfer with Air Bali. Powered by a jet turbine engine, Air Bali’s Bell 206B Jetranger is renowned as the world’s safest single engine aircraft, and possibly its most stylish.

“This is our ‘limo in the sky’, with plush

seating for up to four passengers and large windows providing panoramic views of Bali,” says Air Bali co-owner Marius Cloete.

There’s no better way to get your compass bearings and enjoy unrivalled views of Bali’s diverse natural landscapes. No car, no matter how luxurious, can deliver views like these. Not to mention the satisfaction of roaring over the traffic as you reach your destination in less time than it takes to finish a bottle of Dom. If you’re flying into Bali from another island such as Lombok, Air Bali also operates a Piper Cheyenne 400LS. This twin jetprop aircraft is equipped with long-range fuel tanks and advanced avionics to reach altitudes up to 41,000 feet, enabling it to service remote locations and international airports like Singapore, Perth, Darwin and Kuala Lumpur. The fastest turbo-prop aircraft in its class with a cruising speed of 600kmh, it can be converted into a fully equipped air ambulance in just a few minutes. Let’s hope you never have to experience that side of the service.

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Another way to make a stylish entrance into Bali is straddling a classic Harley Davidson motorcycle. A jockey will pick you up from the airport and roar you away for the ultimate ride through the island’s streets, but you’ll have to arrange another way for your luggage to follow.

Flying in Style The only thing absent from Bali’s first class arrival service is a first class aircraft cabin.

Unfortunately, few regional airlines use their best aircraft for Denpasar flights, reserving first class seats for more ‘exclusive’ markets with frequent business travellers, such as Jakarta and Singapore. But that doesn’t mean you have to slum it in cattleclass, God forbid.

Direct to Bali If you want a direct flight to Bali, you may consider settling for a business class seat.

With a young, expanding fleet and the honour of being one of only five airlines worldwide to receive a five star ranking

by UK-based independent aviation moni76

toring agency Skytrax, Qatar Airways is an excellent choice.

It operates flights from Doha via Kuala Lumpur four times a week using new Airbus A330 aircraft. Highlights of Qatar’s business class service include 160-degree sleeper beds, six-course meal, a selection of fine wines and Champagnes, 15-inch seatback LCD TV screens and live digital satellite television beamed direct to each television.

Malaysia Airlines, another recipient of five-star status by Skytrax, operates twice daily flights from Kuala Lumpur to Bali with business class seating. Features include Champagne upon boarding, three-course meal with Malaysian, Western or vegetarian dishes, gourmet coffees and teas and Aigner toiletries. If you simply can’t forgo first class service and demand maximum flexibility and convenience, with tailored flight schedules and elimination of stopovers, a private jet is the ultimate way to fly.

First Class to Jakarta/Singapore Another option is to fly first class to Singa-

pore or Jakarta with one of the many prominent international airlines servicing these airports, and then get a business class seat for the hop over to Denpasar.

Lufthansa (part of the Star Alliance network for frequent flyer purposes) operates a daily flight between Frankfurt and Jakarta via Singapore, with Boeing 747-400 aircraft in a three-class configuration.

Its first-class ergonomic seat includes a massage function, and can be converted into a completely flat two-metre-long bed with a partition for maximum privacy. Crisp bed linen, Joop blanket and Van Laack pyjamas ensure a restful sleep.

The à la carte dining service enables guests to choose what and when they wish to eat, as well as the order in which courses are served and their size.

The Oriental Hotel Bangkok’s Executive Chef, Italian-born Norbert Kostner, has created three menus that rotate every two months, featuring regional specialties such as ‘Poached River Prawns, Pomelo Salad and Sweet and Sour Lime Dressing’ and ‘Ginseng Pannacotta’.

World class Sommelier Markus Del Monego has specially selected some 40 exclusive international wines from 30 vineyards.

British Airways (a OneWorld member) does not fly to Indonesia at all, but can get you as far as Singapore in first class. Among its many finer points, BA boasts an à la carte menu created by some of the world’s most renowned chefs, featuring ‘Catch of the Day’, ‘Lighter Options’ and a scrumptious ‘English Afternoon Tea’ of Twinings teas, assorted sandwiches, and scones served with clotted cream and strawberry jam.

Its chic washbag by handbag designer Anya Hindmarch is filled with exclusive Kiehl’s cosmetics among other luxuries.

The first airline in the world to introduce fully-flat beds, BA has also pioneered a ‘Turndown Service’, complete with Egyptian cotton sheets, its ever-popular sleeper suit, and an aromatherapy spray on your pillows to lull you into a deep slumber.

That in itself might be worth a detour to Singapore en route to Bali, where you can begin your holiday fully rested.

Pent Up In A Penthouse

The Anantara Penthouse takes you high above the crowds.

It’s not hard to see why the whole world wants to stay in a penthouse. There’s something extremely sexy about being above the crowds, quite literally, settled into an exclusive eagle’s nest and pampered to the point of pomposity by a private butler. It’s all about privacy of course – even if you decide to throw a party and invite your friends. For a private party.

Above the crowds. In your own personal penthouse. You get the picture.

The Anantara penthouse positively oozes privacy. The hotel itself – newest on the beach and already packed to the rafters – has been a hit almost from day one. It offers something quite different for Bali…luxury in the middle of what would otherwise be the island’s ‘town’ – the beach at Gado Gado. You can sit in glorious luxury on the pool deck and watch the world go by, just as we used to do from a rather low-budget warung in what was once a nightclub car park. It’s all changed…just as the island has moved on, so have the hotels we now enjoy.

It gets better the further you go up. And up and up to the spectacular top floor that comprises, for the most part, SOS, and for another, the Anantara’s penthouse. Access is granted via a separate entrance, upstairs to a lobby deck that doubles as a personal library.

Open the double doors and step into a rather expensive embrace – if you have to ask how

Pent Up In A Penthouse

Pent Up In A Penthouse

Pent Up In A Penthouse

much it is to stay here, then I am afraid you definitely won't be able to afford it. Right in front of you at this point is a set of smaller steps that lead to an inviting day bed, then onwards to a private pool (into which one can literally ‘fall’) and yet onwards again to the stunning blue horizon. With nothing in between.

It’s a luxury apartment, of course, and so much more. One end of your private deck in the clouds is a lounge area, dining room and another day bed, while on the other lays sunbeds and yes, a Jacuzzi. Oh hell. The plasma in your bedroom is almost as big as the bed, swivels nicely on its hinges and is supported by a fab Bose sound system that reverberates around the entire place. It’s all showers and more baths and of course your own private spa room (or a second bedroom, should you be staying with your family or friends), not to mention exceptional service in the form of a very attentive and highly discreet butler. Always on hand but rarely noticed.

Pent Up In A Penthouse

Nudity is mandatory at some point during your stay. Let’s face it, if you can't walk around starkers in a penthouse, where can you? The only people likely to disturb your natural tendencies (once the butler has been safely seen off, that is) are the helicopter passengers who flit by occasionally in the otherwise pristine sky. All in all, the Anantara penthouse is about as good as it gets (did I mentioned the well-stocked Smeg fridge), and very easy to get used to. Exclusivity can come in many forms, but this experience pretty much took the biscuit… and the cake, bottle of Dom and winner’s trophy. Enjoy it if you can. http://bali.anantara.com

Pent Up In A Penthouse

Dwelling On a Dwelling

Dream Construct David and Gill Wilson built their contemporary home in Sanur. It was a dream build…

What made you decide to buy in Bali?

We have always loved Bali and have been coming here for many years. After we relocated to Bali for work reasons we thought about buying, that was in 2002. Shortly after we arrived however there was the terrorist attack in Kuta. At that time I thought what a good thing we didn’t buy! But as time went on I could see that property prices didn’t drop in the slightest and after a very short interval, demand was actually increasing for villas. In light of all that, we decided Bali would be a strong investment.

Why Sanur?

We love Sanur! The village has an old world charm to it, beautiful old tree-lined streets, moss covered walls and of course one of the best white sand beaches in Bali, where we love to spend our Sundays. We chose Sanur initially because of the close proximity to the international school but now would not want to live anywhere else. We can travel to any of the popular restaurants in Legian and Seminyak in 30 minutes but return and wake up in peace and quiet the next day. Sanur has a residential feel about it, just pass by Café Batu Jimbar on Sunday and you will see what I mean.

On looking for land, did any friends and

frenemies tell you horror stories about buying and building in Bali? What was the worst tale?

One story was that someone had bought a property and when it was almost finished found out it wasn’t in the location that they thought it was at all! Another friend built a beautiful house only to find the access road was promptly closed and only a scooter could get through.

How did you find the land you bought?

I found this land with the help of my contractor and builder, who knew I was looking for somewhere in Sanur.

How big is the plot? And what did it cost?

Nine are, or about 900 sq. meters. As for cost, it was reasonable enough for us to develop but expensive enough that we had to build a luxury villa on it. In other words, today’s land cost is becoming so expensive that the days of building a cheaper residence are long gone, at least in prime locations.

Why is Sanur more expensive than, let’s say, Seminyak?

Sanur land has always been the most expensive in Bali, partly I think due to the fact that most landowners in Sanur are quite wealthy and have a sort of “take it or leave

it” attitude, and partly because land is Sanur is so limited. Prime land is only available between the Grand Bali Beach and Jalan Tanjung, which is a relatively small area. When you take into account also that most land and villa owners in Sanur don’t want to sell and tend to be longer term residents, you can see how prices are driven up by the lack of supply.

Is this the first house you have ever owned?

No, we had a place in London and before this another villa in Sanur.

Where have you lived previously?

London, Jakarta, Adelaide, New Delhi, Fukuoka, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and finally Bali. We saved the best for last!

What is the cash difference between what you planned to spend on the house and what you actually ended up spending?

About 20 per cent, but not due to any budget overruns, only because I got carried away and started spending more on some of the areas than we originally planned. I think this is quite common when you build your own villa, unless you have amazing self-control.

Your criteria for choosing one architect over another?

Dwelling On a Dwelling

Dwelling On a Dwelling

Passion firstly. Then energy and creativity and attention to detail.

Who did you end up choosing and why?

Putu Edy Semara, ESA Architects, an amazing architect with all those qualities. He was a true delight to work with. And Ida Bagus Mega Antara, owner of Pillar Construction, for the building. Again, a wonderful person who did an outstanding job. And Anton of Laksamana Landscaping, who brought his creativity and skill into the project. The wonderful thing was that they were all so good to work with it made the whole exercise a very pleasant experience.

A home or an investment?

Definitely a home, but it is always good to think that it will be an excellent investment too.

What were the five most important criteria you used for the design?

Creating a peaceful environment where we could relax. Building to a high construction quality and international standard. Creating luxurious spaces in living and sleeping areas, using good but practical materials. Ecofriendly, using solar panels and synthetic roofing tiles and wood laminates. A great

swimming pool and waterfall.

Who or what most influenced the end product?

My wife and I. How would you describe your house – Balinese, contemporary, Mediterranean?

It’s a contemporary villa.

Give us a quick rundown on your house (number of beds, baths etc).

One master bedroom, around 70 sq. metres with large outdoor shower area, three guest bedrooms, gym, outdoor dining pavilion, AV Room, lounge/indoor dining area, kitchen – fully air-conditioned and designed as a place you would want to be.

Many kitchens are put at the back, almost as an afterthought.

What did you two compromise on, and what did you agree to disagree on?

It was good teamwork. I did the design with the architect and then handed over to Gill who did the interiors, my only request was that I did the garage and AV room.

Your house is ideal for entertaining, what is the biggest party you have ever had?

Xmas dinner for 45 guests. We planned a dinner by the pool with a Christmas choir. In good Bali fashion (for that time of the year) it poured down with rain! Despite the rain it was fun.

Has any one ever fallen in the pool?

Our new Labrador puppy, many times.

If you had to do something different, what would it be?

Nothing.

You built in endless amounts of cupboard space. David, does Gill really have that many clothes?

Can a woman ever have enough wardrobes?

You have ‘His and Her’ sinks. Whose idea was it and why?

Absolutely, the secret of a happy marriage, definitely my idea. I am minimalist and Gill, like most women, has so many things it looks like a cosmetic counter at a department store. Men who share sinks have no chance of minimalist happiness.

Do you have a separate wine room? Why is it so important?

I have had so many good bottles spoilt due to the climate that I decided it would be a

good investment. Now I can actually collect some good wines.

What are the plusses and minuses of being your own interior designer?

Gill Wilson owns and runs GW Interiors, based in Bali. Says Gill: You can do whatever you want to do and have access to the best materials. The downside is that I tend to get carried away and costs can overrun!

Any new construction projects in the pipeline?

Possibly – as we enjoyed doing this one.

Whose house on Bali, besides your own, do you like the most?

A good friend of ours from Malaysia, Asri Ghaffar. His villa in Tabanan is very unique and minimalist with superb views. Also, in a very different way, our friend Malik’s house in Petitengett is fabulous!

Finally, any tips you would like to offer other couples planning to build on Bali?

Engage the best people you can and that your budget will allow…lawyers, builders architects etc…it will save you money later.

Gill and David – thank you.

A pleasure.

Interiors

The Layar, Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak.

Interiors

John and Yoko knew the power of staying in bed. So we figured we'd climb between

the sheets of a few of Bali's best. 'From Paris to the Amsterdam Hilton,Taking to

their beds for a week. The newspapers said, "Say, what you doin in bed?" I said,

"We're only trying to get us some peace" - Ballad of John and Yoko, 1969.

Interiors

This page: Super deluxe at the St Regis VIlla. Right: Tirta Ening Master Bedroom at Como Shambhala Estate at Begawan Giri.

Interiors

Interiors

This page: Deluxe single pavillion at The BalĂŠ.

Right: Carlo chic.

Interiors

Interiors

This page: Top, Aqua.

Bottom, Ziva.

Interiors

Clockwise from top left: Alila Ubud; Uluwatu Lace; Nunia Villa; Hishem.

Being Green

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT Michael Travers sought out our most enchanting valley destinations within striking distance of a river.

THE Tigris, Nile, Congo, Orinoco and the Danube...just some of the world’s great rivers that are essential for life on earth. Their constant flow of water carves landscapes, allows animals to flourish and brings rich sediment that makes the soils fertile for our crops. Their ability for incessant rage or passive flow over the millennia has inspired wars, religions, civilisations, love, poetry and some of the greatest cultures the world has ever known.

In Bali, as in most places, the rivers are revered as the givers of life. Here, rivers are not long by any stretch of the comparative imagination, but it is a mountainous island with a large rainfall with many watersheds that has created the dramatically beautiful steep river gorges that make Bali what it is. Revered as holy for the life-giving water and the nutrients that they bring, they reflect the denseness of the jungle and offer sustenance to the island’s fertile soil, supplying the Balinese people with that most holy of holies, their daily rice.

There are many resorts and retreats in Bali that turn their back on the ubiquitous, endless ocean views and instead go for a fresher, more subtle approach of rivers and

jungle. They look down upon or line the serene and peaceful jungle-clad riverbanks of the island as the waters flow ever downwards and bring inner serenity and peace to those spectators who take the time to step back and go with the flow.

It is the more discerning guests who choose the forestscape, those who are lulled by the soothing flows of the rivers and enjoy the sights and sounds of the nature that it brings; namely the sound of the waters, the movement of the trees, the sounds of the animals, insects, butterflies and birds.

They attract the honeymooners, the lovers, the yoga devotees and those seeking total relaxation away from the beach and its more gregarious class of tourist.

They are also witness to the noble traditions of rural Bali: the villages, the temples, the rice terraces and its people.

It is for no mean reason that the Balinese revere their rivers so, as indeed we all do. But for all the haphazard architecture that blights Bali’s riversides, there are many places following the Balinese traditions in architecture and design that show a respect for nature’s waters and serve to

enhance the human senses. Here are a few of note.

FOUR SEASONS RESORT, SAYAN This is a beautiful, architectural triumph, a forest resort in the central highlands just 10 minutes drive from Ubud. It looks out over the classically beautiful lush rice fields that rise from the Ayung River below, Bali’s largest and most sacred river. The design of the Four Seasons Resort Sayan has won many awards, not least for its architecture and the way in which it was developed in harmony with the surroundings.

The resort offers 18 suites and 28 spacious villas along the hillside above the river. Upon arrival, you cross a wooden bridge to an elliptical-shaped lotus pond which sits atop the roof of the resort’s central building. A staircase leads down through the pond to the reception, where immediately you are captured by the 180-degree views of the jungle valley from the top of the ridge all the way to the river's edge.

In the resort, stone pathways meander between the luxury villas and facilities, following the lay of the land and taking straight lines out from your mind. Each of

the villas has its own private plunge pool and secluded outdoor shower, open to the sky with a view of the tranquil river. Luxurious suites, located in the main building, offer panoramic views over the valley.

Tel: 977577 Bud Map ref: B3 Private Luxe at Villa Sungai VILLA Sungai is the ultimate river retreat.

Set behind a temple beneath fabulous tree canopies on a bend in the river, the property benefits from cooling breezes and offers a grand villa experience. Owner Pamela Hayes understands the needs of visitors. “Evenings and dinners are special occasions as holiday time is so precious,” she says. Which is why her staff is trained to create a new atmosphere for each mealtime. “Some nights we will switch from the dining table in the main pavilion to the 3.5 metre one, overlooking the river and lit by candles,” she says. The villa pays special attention to babies and younger children, and there’s even a purpose-built couples residence next door – Sungai Gold – for couples and honeymooners. Think luxury and privacy with superb service. www.bali-villasungai.com

Being Green

Previous Page: Poolside at Maya Ubud. This page: Four Seasons Resort at Sayan.

Being Green

edge of the Petanu River, connected by a boardwalk. There is a reflexology deck suspended over the river with stunning views of the flowing waters below, where the river's gentle passage and the surrounding landscape of dense vegetation become the main focus of the resort's spiritual raison d’etre.

Tel: 977888 Bud Map ref: P7 THE ARSANA ThE Arsana is a modern-style villa not far from Canggu in Southwest Bali’s glorious green belt that sits on two and a half hectares of hillside directly adjacent to the Sungai River. It is from the gentle meandering flow of this waterway that Arsana takes its name.

The property has a central living space built in a U-shape that overlooks a large swimming pool and surrounding deck. It is carved into the hillside and looks north down to the forested river at the base of the property, with big sky vistas to the volcanoes that form the backbone of Bali.

In homage to the layout of the tradi-

Villa Sungai

The Arsana

KOMANEKA TANGGAYUDA The Komaneka at Tanggayuda is built in an enchanting and secluded setting overlooking the Oos River near Ubud, and is a popular haunt for honeymooners. It's not difficult to see why. The resort is the perfect place to unwind amid unbridled luxury, the sound of soft flowing waters and the chirping of tropical insects.

Komaneka follows an established and effective contemporary design that sees a modern interpretation of traditional Balinese style using local materials, including alang-alang thatch roofing, coconut wood, tropical hardwoods and a variety of native Indonesian stone. Each villa has a private plunge pool, veranda and garden, and the resort has a luxury spa offering an array of treatments that will transport you to a place even more serene than your immediate reality.

The interiors of the suites offer spacious rooms decorated with rich fabrics in soft earth tones, combined with tasteful and richly crafted local furnishings, all designed to soothe and not overpower the senses. Its

tional Balinese compound, the villa boasts four bedroom-suites that are located on the hillsides and surround the central living quarters. The sophisticated, contemporary Balinese architecture utilises indigenous stones, native wood finishes and diversely coloured fabrics in combination with folding glass walls that fill the living spaces with both unlimited light and spectacular views.

Tel: 7804940 www.prestigebalivillas.com KAYUMANIS UBUD Another joy to behold on the mighty Ayung River gorge is Kayumanis Ubud, a discrete and intimate five-star hideaway for honeymooners, lovers and small groups of friends. There are 23 private villas, including a stunning honeymoon villa set among groves of cinnamon trees from which Kayumanis takes its name.

The resort is set high along the banks of two rivers that overlook the dense tropical rainforest near Ubud. The villas are all exceptionally themed, and offer the guest a chance to totally personalise their stay

style is a common theme in Bali but repeated for good reason. It never grows old and it creates a true feeling of the island, sought out by serenity-seekers the world over.

Tel: 978123 www.komaneka.com MAYA UBUD Maya Ubud is a gorgeous resort set in 10 hectares of hillside on an 800-metre promontory between the combined spiritual powers of the Petanu and the Pakerisan rivers.

Maya celebrates all that is good about the island and is filled with the spirit of Bali.

The resort celebrates the island life through its landscape and architecture of alangalang thatched roofs, bamboo and soft river stones that have a low visual impact and work with the natural harmony of the immediate surroundings. There is a mix of new and traditional furniture and the 60 villas are spaced out in three groups, drawing inspiration from the layout of the traditional high-caste Bali Aga villages of East Bali.

Down by the water, Maya Ubud has treatment pavilions nestled on the water’s

Maya Ubud

Komaneka Tanggayuda Shankari's Retreat

Being Green

Kayumanis Ubud.

in Bali. Designed with separate living and sleeping quarters around a central courtyard with a private pool, the villas come with all Western creature comforts. There are thatched alang-alang roofs, coconut pillars and traditional furniture, with each of the properties reflecting the many cultural influences that have shaped Bali into the spiritual paradise that it is. Five private spa

pavilions line the river and must be seen and experienced to be believed.

The river also brings fireflies to the valley and you can watch them darting magically in and out of the trees. All in, it is a perfect, passive activity that only requires a pair of eyes...and a glass of something suitable in one's hand.

Tel: 972 777 Bud Map ref: A4

Over The Edge

Northern Light Tradition meets excellence under the coconut trees at Spa Village Resort, Tembok.

There are two ways to the northeast coast of Bali and Spa Village Resort, Tembok. Drive east, following Bali’s coastal road past the riotous bougainvillea and mango groves of Amed and Tulamben’s dive resorts and the salt panning beaches of Tianyar, or drive due north over the misty ridge of the Batur crater and through the scented clove and coffee plantations.

Descend to sea level and arrive at one of the island’s prettiest properties. Set in a coconut grove accented with pungent frangipani and a manicured lawn, the Bali Sea laps along the length of its black sand shoreline.

Twenty-seven rooms, two signature suites and two villas – each with private plunge pool and pavilion – create the hardscape of this wellness resort, alongside the separate treatment rooms which embrace one side of the coconut plantation; each separate room, ideal for couples, is tailor-made with flowing curtained verandahs and interiors individually themed around wood, coconut, glass, ceramic or sandstone, Ensuring its name – Spa Village Resort, Tembok – the spa experience starts on entering the lobby, as guests are greeted with

a refreshing foot scrub and a relaxing neck and shoulder massage before being escorted to the rooms. Once unpacked, these health devotees enjoy the pre-treatment cleansing ritual – Segara Diri – between mountain and sea. Seated, feet are sunk into gently steaming black sand – detoxifying – and are covered with a towel, then comes the cleansing in the form of a mountain water fountain footbath, completing the link between mountain and sea.

Their signature oils (Purifying, Relaxing and Create) and treatments combine Malaysian, Chinese and Balinese therapies – this is the uniqueness that the YTL Hotels* bring to Bali.

Body wraps use herbs, papaya or cucumber and aloe; body scrubs use ground rice and coffee and a myriad of roots and barks.

The next experience is dining which can be enjoyed in the Wantilan Restaurant, by the pool or in a private gazebo. Even as individual dietary needs can be discussed with the chef in residence, the menu offers a wide range of Asian and European favourites and delicacies using fresh imported and

local ingredients. And though the accent is on health (an Australian herbologist was consulted to create the delicious blended juice menu that cleanses, energizes and boosts the immune system) wine and alcohol is also available.

There are a couple of pointers, however: no smoking is permitted in the resort – if needed the beach or the car park are suggested – the only television is in the library and you must enquire prior to your arrival if you are accompanied by children of under 16 years of age.

Bringing a closer understanding and a more intimate experience of the island, the resort also offers a number of special daily activities.

The garden’s Taman Gili pavilion hosts Balinese crafts such as offering making, lontar writing (ancient palm leaf texts) even traditional weaving; then, in addition, there are cooking classes, yoga with the onsite yoga teacher, gymnasium workouts, treks and excursions to the nearby hot springs.

Visits to other local sites are also part of the programme.

Occasionally artists in residence are on

hand to release the creative side of those looking for a complete wind-me-down.

Many guests also come to partake in the Spa Academy, which imparts massage classes and instructs in the art of boreh and jamu-making (boreh – body scrubs; jamu – Indonesian health drinks). All activities are individually tailor-made for each guest on request.

The uniqueness of Spa Village Resort is that each experience available at this exclusive retreat imparts wellness of mind and body, and by being located in Bali, soothes the soul. *YTL is the international owning company of Spa Village Resort, Tembok and has a unique and award-winning concept of preserving and promoting ancient beauty traditions, with a philosophy of ‘we don’t build resorts but we craft experiences’. With six hotels and resorts to date, they plan to open their seventh in St Tropez, France, next year.

Jl. Singaraja-Amplapura No. 100, Desa Tembok, Tejakula, Buleleng, North Bali.

Tel./Fax: + 62 362 32033 www.ytlhotels.com.my

Over The Edge Over The Edge

103

Venting in a Villa

Counting

Karma

Karma Kandara is living proof that someone, somewhere, did something noble in a past life. Sophie Digby takes in the view.

Okay, I so I have come to the realisation that I may have reached a point of good karma.

‘How so?’ you might well ask. ‘Why you?’ No clue, but as I relish in the privilege of life, I am totally capable of admitting that we all make mistakes – maybe that’s ‘+ 2’ karma points for having got this far. With a ‘-1’ for the usual blow out I have in the office on a less that salubrious Monday afternoon.

However, in redemption, I enjoy giving out good vibes to one and all at airports – the cyberspace kind of course – so ‘+1’; well, noone specified which kind one gets points for.

But most of all I believe I have good karma because I truly enjoy life, and it enjoys me enjoying it…that must be ‘+ 3’ points just there for using the word ‘enjoy’ three times in just 10 words.

Anyway, back to karma. I am shy to ad-

mit it, but my karma exchange is on the rise, and it all looks pretty bullish from where I stand right now, which happens to be cliffside at Bali’s most breathtaking resort, Karma Kandara. Most people use the phrase ‘a view to die for’…well, that isn’t my plan any time soon, because from where I am standing, cliffside – sorry, am I repeating myself? – above a pristine sea with a reef and massively elegant rolling waves, plus a private beach with the fabulous Robinson Crusoe-never-had-it-thisgood bar – Nammos Beach Club and Grill – I can only see a view to live for! It’s all good.

Forty-six, very private, one-bedroom, two-bedroom and three-bedroom villas join up with the very sexy Chakra Spa, a body enhancing gym and a very sturdy bridge over a death-defying gorge. Add to that Bali’s favourite Mediterranean restaurant, di Mare,

beautifully executed by Executive Chef Raymond Saja. The delectable menu – tastes include Caramelized Perigord Foie Gras, Bouillabaisse and Moroccan Mezze – jostles for the top spot with the view…one that, up to now, I have previously only ever seen courtesy of Photoshop. The difference is that this one is for real; the only possible Silicone Valley connection might come from a female tourist or two, who in their eyes might wish to improve on the view…impossible! But let’s give them a karma point for trying.

Since opening, Karma Kandara has hosted endless parties, starting with their muchtalked about launch; which was followed by hosts of private birthday parties – mine was Bloody Mary’s on the Beach for 20 or so of us – fashion shoots galore (and yes, one of them was us yet again) and numerous other maga-

zines, catalogue shoots, weddings, honeymoons, sundowners, full moon parties – the list goes on…I suppose we are all looking for a touch of Karma…

But let’s get back to the resort. Perched on a hill top 100 metres above the ever-rolling surf, beside a black lava rock temple and surrounded by white coral limestone Mediterranean walls, the resort meanders down gentle slopes, reminiscent of the narrow cobble streets of Andalucia in southern Spain… instead of a donkey with panniers coming round the corner, expect to meet a Balinese priest on his offering route.

It’s not overstating things to say that Karma Kandara has added a new facet to Bali’s already burgeoning overnight options.

Here, one has outdoor bathrooms with views, not just ones with walled garden views. The bedrooms are large and elegant, excellently

kitted out with high-count cotton sheets, sumptuous mattresses and pillows. The entertainment room fits overnight dwellers plus a few more friends; why there is even a wellequipped open kitchen for making a coffee, tea or cocktails – should you think you can do it better than those who bartend in the wellstocked air-conditioned bar that up-ends one side of the di Mare restaurant.

What is it that gives Karma Kandara more karma points than the rest? The view, the villas, the excellent dining options, the 3,000-bottle wine cellar, the private descent via an ultra modern funicular to the private beach? In short, maybe it is that the sum of its parts make it greater than the whole.

What more could one want? Karma points all round… www.karmakandara.com

Duoview

Duoview

Kevin and Annie Livesey are the duo behind the annual Commonwealth Bank Tennis Classic, now in its eighth year. This year's event promises to be no less successful.

What are your names?

John Kevin Livesey, Annie George Philip.

Where are you from?

From the UK and Malaysia.

Where do you live and how long have you been coming to Bali?

We live in Malaysia and have been coming to Bali for the past eight years for the tournament.

What do you do?

Kevin is Board Member of the Sony Ericsson WTA Tour and Tournament Director of the Commonwealth Bank Tennis Classic. Annie looks after public and international relations for the tournament. Chairlady of the management corporation of the condominium we live in. Wife, friend and general dogs body.

Are we going to love the games again this year?

Hopefully – we will again have a world-class player field.

What's in store for the tournament?

This will be the last year for the tournament in its present format. Next year, in 2009, the tournament becomes the Commonwealth Bank Tournament of Champions, featuring 12 of the top 20 players in the world. Prize money will be US$600,000, offering a bonus of US$1million.

Cripes. Any special treats?

Each year we try and improve the fan experience – this year we are further developing the hospitality areas and hopefully this will make it much more of an event and not only a tennis tournament!

How many years have you been doing this together?

Fifteen years.

That's a while. Where did you meet?

In Malaysia.

Was it love at first sight?

Not really!

What attributes do you share?

We are honest and straightforward and would like to do the best, and we ensure that everybody we work with has a fair deal.

What you see is what you get. We have no hidden agendas.

How are you different?

Annie is logical and disciplined and sees the big picture. Kevin focuses on the details. It complements the work we are doing.

What are the challenges of living and working together?

Difficult to separate personal and work life.

What do you argue about?

Work and the lack of a personal life!

To Kevin: What's great about Annie?

Quite apart from looking after me and the home where she does a fantastic job, she really does see the big picture of the event.

She has created a wonderful relationship with the Bali business people and the work she has done to ensure that the players have a great time and experience has been brilliant. With the player activities, parties, fashion show and shoots etc, we have succeeded in making the event very popular among the players, coaches and Sony Ericsson WTA Tour staff who look forward to coming to Bali each year.

To Annie: What's great about Kevin?

He is reliable and honest.

You are stranded on a desert island with only coconuts for company. What do you do?

Make use of what is available to survive and get back.

When was the last time you both said, 'Never Again'.

Many times with the tournament.

How has Bali changed since you started coming here?

There has been more development and it is busier than ever but it's great to see it back again as a popular holiday destination.

The tournament went back to Malaysia a few years back, but you returned to Bali.

Why? We only moved because of security concerns raised by the WTA Tour. Our title sponsor was Wismilak and the idea had been to showcase to the world that Indonesia can

host a world class event, so when the tour deemed it safe we came back to Indonesia and Bali seemed to be the perfect setting.

How do you cope with the tennis divas you encounter?

Take them for what they are, tennis players.

Most of them are very nice and appreciate what we do for them in Bali. The secret is not to try and force them to do things that they really don't want to do – Annie is very good at this!

Do you play?

Kevin used to and Annie had lessons.

Is it the greatest game on earth, or should we continue to go surfing?

You can do both.

How on earth did you get into this in the first place, anyway?

Kevin was a tennis coach working for the LTA in UK and was offered a two-year contract as Head Coach at the Hong Kong Sports Institute – the two-year contract lasted 16 years and the rest, as they say, is history.

What special skills do you need to put on a sporting event of this size?

A vision, attention to detail, patience and, most importantly, the money. None of this would be possible without the wonderful support and encouragement from all our sponsors, particularly Wismilak, who have been the title sponsor for the first 13 years.

Equally we were delighted when the Commonwealth Bank took over as title sponsor in 2007 and have committed until 2011.

We've heard there is a professional streaker on the island and he plans to streak at your final. What measures do you have in place to stop him?

We have very strong security in place but if someone is silly enough to do this we will deal with it.

Kevin and Annie, thank you for your time!

The Commonwealth Bank Tennis Classic, Grand Hyatt Bali, September 7-14. www.bali-wtatour.com, Toll free: 0800-1-099-099 107

Oral Pleasures

Rude Food We asked an exclusive selection of Bali’s newest chefs to come up with menus to jumpstart your libido. By Marian Carroll.

Chedi Club: Bjorn van Veggel The Chedi Club’s Chef de Cuisine, Bjorn van Veggel (pictured right), speaks from experience when he says this menu will energise your love life. No heavy handling here; the Dutchman says a light touch is best when dabbling in romance, and that means saucy seafood with decadent side dishes.

But while he promotes an adventurous mood with his technique and different textures and flavours, he is strictly monogamous when it comes to the liquid accompaniment. “I don’t like to drink four or five different kinds of wine, I prefer one nice and very good bottle to savour throughout the

meal,” says Bjorn, who comes to Bali from a Michelin-star restaurant in his homeland.

His passion is for Italian wine, especially the exclusive Brunello made from the sangiovese grape. “Although Brunello may not be the best choice with this menu, for me it is the only choice for romance. From the first time I drank this wine I totally fell in love with its richness, complexity and elegance,” says Bjorn. Here's his menu for love: Wine: Biondi Santi’s Brunello di Montalcino Amuse Gueule: Beef tartar with deep fried quail egg and balsamic extract Starter: Bombe from snapper and lobster

with Parmesan cracker, lettuce and lobster caramel Main course: Slow pan-fried sea bass with melting goose liver, crispy potatoes and chicken skin, braised green asparagus, dried tomato, spinach and sauce meuniere Dessert: Basil bavarois with coconut, fresh strawberries and homemade strawberry ice cream (pictured above) Table Setting: Keep it simple. A nice quiet table overlooking the ricefields, with plain white table cloths, candles and some red flowers…not too many things to distract you from your dinner date.

Oral Pleasures

Alila: Shahram de Contades EXECUTIVE chef Shahram de Contades (below) has created a sensationally sexy menu that satisfies all five senses and even guarantees fidelity. This accomplished young Australian with mixed German, French and Persian heritage comes to Bali from Michelin-star restaurants in Europe and most recently from his role as Chef de Cuisine at The Ritz-Carlton-managed Sharq Village & Spa in Doha, Qatar.

“To start, Oyster, the ultimate aphrodisiac, and what better to pair it with than Champagne to cool you down. And, of course, caviar. The complex flavour and sensuality, the aroma…there’s nothing more compelling than the burst of caviar in your mouth.

“For something different, rare, expensive and luscious that gets straight into your blood, I recommend a thick slice of foie gras served with quince, believed to be the apple that Eve gave Adam. After the richness of the foie gras, I like the sour, refreshing taste of passion fruit sorbet as a palette cleanser.

“For the main course, the fish is delectably braised in butter to reveal the silky, sensual texture that will melt in your mouth, set off by the musky aroma of truffles, one of the Romans’ favorite aphrodisiacs. To end, something to twirl in your mouth: velvety chocolate pasta perfectly matched with lavender which has been known throughout history as a herb of love, believed to ensure fidelity.”

Foreplay: Oyster, Caviar and gold Champagne “Mélange á Foie”: A threesome of foie gras, quince and ginger. Pan-seared foie gras with quince compote, micro watercress and ginger gastrique Sauternes Cool me down: Passion fruit sorbet drizzled with Champagne Turning up the heat: Braised Butterfish with Vermouth, asparagus and truffle-creamed potatoes Pinot Gris Dessert Ecstasy: Chocolate and lavender carbonara with vanilla cream and pistachio ice-cream Tawny Port Table Setting: Sit yourselves side by side rather than opposite each other. We prefer to keep things simple and classic: crisp linen table cloth, the best quality china and flat ware.

For the centrepiece, a bouquet of flowers, antique candle stand, or scattered rose petals.

Something ‘surprisingly different’: write your date a card to be placed at his/her setting.

Then, dim the lights and take your time…

Oral Pleasures

InterCon: René Oskam Laguna: Bastian Mantey Originally hired as the Laguna Resort & Spa’s Food Stylist following stints at Michelin star-rated restaurants in Europe, Bastian Mantey so impressed his new employers that they almost immediately promoted him to Chef de Cuisine. It’s not hard to see why, judging from the creative, wonderfully balanced and flavoursome menu this German chef has put together. I know what you’re thinking: chilli, chocolate and beetroot dessert, are you serious? But don’t write it off. According to Mantey, this red hot combination will definitely spice things up.

The perfect end to a meal for two.

“The menu starts with tuna in black pepper crust,” Mantey says. “Black pepper is the classic ingredient for a romantic dinner and very cordial when combined with raw fish. To counter the strong peppery taste, I

use the sweetness of mango and eggplant.

The second course is actually one of my absolute favourites for an intimate dinner. The essential oil of the artichoke in combination with the chilli extract and honey in the tomato works very well together. The main course is a natural stimulant, thanks to the essential oils of fresh herbs, parsley, basil, thyme and garlic.” The adventurous finale tops it all off, serving as the perfect preparation for some daring post-dinner revelry.

Starter: Japanese-style Tuna Tataki, with zucchini, eggplant, and soy and olive oil vinaigrette Krug Grand Cuvee Champagne (France) First course: French foie gras, artichoke flower and tomato reduction (above) Dr Loosen Riesling (Germany) Amuse Gueule: Carrot and ginger shooter to cleanse the palette Second course: Duo of lamb loin and shoulder, served with green beans, red onion and mustard seed sauce Frontera Concha Y Toro, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Central Valley Chile) Dessert: Chilli chocolate cake, with beetroot ice-cream, balsamic strawberries and mint pesto Black Russian on ice Table Setting: Enjoy an intimate dinner away from the main dining area in a beautiful gazebo. Lots of candles, flowers and other romantic elements.

Executive Chef René Oskam has arrived in Bali straight from a 10-year stint in Thailand, his most recent role being Executive Chef at Anantara Resort Hua Hin. The Dutchman’s fascinated by the current organic movement and his culinary philosophy is to keep it simple with just a handful of fresh ingredients. Trying to over-impress with more than three ingredients could be a recipe for a first-date bomb-out.

“All ingredients that I have chosen for this special menu are luxurious with enticing aromas that evoke memories of intimate dining moments shared with a loved one,” Oskam says.

“Who can forget the first time they had

the opportunity to savour a fresh oyster or inhale the earthy goodness of a black truffle? Since we are in the tropics, I have used several Asian ingredients to give the whole experience an exotic touch. Using almost no starch, the menu is light, the perfect prelude to a long evening of romance.”

Amuse Gueule: Oysters with lemongrass emulsion and anise granite (below) Dom Perignon 1999 (Champagne, France) Starter: Pan-fried scallops with asparagus, coconut and shaved black truffle Riesling, Hugel 2005 (Alsace, France) Second course: Slow-roasted monk fish in crispy angel hair, with Serrano ham, lobster and vanilla jus, and confit of cherry tomatoes Chardonnay, La Solatia, Ruffino, 2005 (Tuscany, Italy) Main course: Slow-cooked pigeon with sweet and sour foie gras sauce, grilled mango, beetroot foam and wild mushrooms Cabernet Sauvignon, Leeuwin Estate Art Series 2002 (Margaret River, Australia) Dessert: White chocolate and wasabi crème brulée with marinated strawberries and pistachio nuts Table Setting: Bare feet in the sand, white table cloth, private butler and sommelier service, elegant tropical flower arrangements.

Oral Pleasures

Stock exchange runner turns celebrity chef. Whatever next?

Who are you today?

I am a potential candidate for New Zealand Prime Minister.

What were you doing 10 years ago?

Acting 10 years younger.

Where do you live and why?

I live in Hanoi because I got booted out of Saigon.

Your ethnicity? (He dislikes that word.)

Half Egyptian, half Chinese.

Your grandmothers – who were they and how did they influence you?

They both taught me great table manners and how to cook both Arabic and Chinese food, respectively.

Your grandfather was the Egyptian Ambassador to the UK in 19?? – was that a help or a hindrance?

It was 1974, and neither.

What did you learn about diplomacy?

It’s not the same if one person has a gun.

English public school education. The positives?

I learnt masturbation before puberty.

The negatives?

Puberty.

What were your previous jobs before donning the apron?

I will give to you them in order: A shoe shine boy; Interdepartmental mail delivery person; T-shirt sales person; kite flyer; car washer; dishwasher; elevator operator; bus boy; cashier; gofer (corporate finance); retail research liaison; trader; order clerk (NY stock exchange); fishmonger; waiter; runner; bus boy; waiter; stand up comic; institutional broker…then the apron.

Who taught you to handle a knife in the kitchen?

Scott Newman.

Being a celebrity chef. Are there any drawbacks?

You don’t get to cook as much and people want you to be “on” all the time.

Is the money any good?

Is the money ever good?

In which airport are you most recognised?

Malaysia.

What did your mother want you to be?

Doctor, lawyer, engineer, but I think she really wanted me to be rich.

If you could reinvent yourself, what would you be?

A Kobe cow.

When did you first come to Bali and why?

Every picture I saw made me feel it was paradise.

You link chefs to Robin Hood, why?

Because we take from the rich and give to the poor.

Seriously, were you a stand-up comedian?

Yes, and obviously I wasn’t so funny seeing that now I am a chef in a country where dog is a delicacy.

How do you deal with the power of celebrity, and the fact that what you might say might matter?

I’m not that famous, no one’s ever listened to me before, I doubt anyone takes me that seriously now.

How many hats do you wear?

One at a time.

With fame comes responsibility. Do you agree?

It depends what type of fame. For example, I’m not sure what responsibilities a porn star has. For me, I try to be responsible to myself and others, but that doesn’t mean I am doing a good job with it, that’s one of the reasons we have critics.

You have many fans, and I hear the IRS is one of them.

Your thoughts…

If I may paraphrase from Bob Segar: “To teachers I’m just another child, to the IRS I’m another file, I’m just another

statistic on a sheet.”

Garlic?

Yes, it gives me gas.

Culture and cuisine – what is your role?

I would like to think that I can identify and appreciate the differences in our cultures and cuisine and have the ability to take these unique cuisines and fuse them into a new cuisine that works, due to my inability to make it as good as the underlying cuisine.

Vegetarian turned carnivore. Do you consider yourself fickle?

Me and the rest of the human race.

You met Keith Floyd (a fabulous, televised, whet-whistled English chef who cooks in the kampungs around the world). What did you like about him?

Keith is everything great about being British. He is smart, he is funny and he is incredibly passionate about food. I’m not sure if it’s British but the man is also incredibly friendly.

To me anyway.

Globalisation. Good or bad?

Bad. Third World hunger. Is there a solution?

Yes. It’s time to strand yourself on a desert island. What would you take?

As much music as possible. Sunscreen.

What are you most proud of?

Changing the lives of many people that I have touched in a positive way.

What wouldn’t you want to tell me?

Sweetie, I’ll tell you anything….

What would you have cooked for The Last Supper?

It’s hard to impress a man that can make wine out of water.

Big Six

Pasta Parade There’s more to pasta than spaghetti and Bolognese sauce, as the varied selection of pastas at these six Italian restaurants show. By Patricea Chow-Capodieci.

BELLA SINGARAJA, Bali InterContinental A TALE of longing and love by a Balinese maiden for an Italian gentleman is the background for the name and the regional Italian dishes served at the Bella Singaraja Italian restaurant at the Bali InterContinental Resort. Guests can sit outdoors on the verandah and enjoy the breeze blowing in from Jimbaran Bay, or in the air-conditioned main dining area and watch as various chefs in the open kitchen prepare the pasta dishes. After watching how deftly the pastas and sauces are made here, it is also a treat to find that every pasta dish is delicate in taste and does not leave one feeling expanded. Of the 12 varieties offered, the herbed gnocchi with Gorgonzola and Parma ham stands out with its fluffy texture, and the memorable element in the homemade ravioli with ricotta cheese, spinach and pine nuts is the creamy tomato sauce the ravioli is tossed in.

Understanding that different people have various dietary restrictions, the menu also clearly indicates vegetarian options as well as those that contain pork. Open daily for dinner. Prices from Rp150,000 to Rp160,000.

Tel: 701888 CIAO, Jl. Sunset WITHOUT the word ‘Ciao’ painted in the Italian colours of red, white and green on the huge billboard protruding out over Sunset Road, it is easy to mistake the eatery for a local warung by the presence of four bales and the antique wood furnishings under

an alang-alang roof. Despite its look, Ciao serves only Italian fare, including 17 varieties of pastas prepared exactly how la mamma would: fresh, and bursting with a taste of home. Like the pasta pesto fresco, which, as its name suggests, is penne tossed with fresh homemade pesto sauce that fills the mouth with the refreshing flavour of basil,.

Fresh pasta is used in making four dishes, including the house specialty, Messicana, which is an ingot-shaped pasta filled with minced pork and covered in a mildly spicyyet-tasty tomato sauce with pancetta. Ciao also offers pasta carbonara alla crema (a sauce of cream and egg) or all’uovo (sauce of egg), as well as spaghetti vongole (clams) either bianco (white wine) or with tomato sauce. Open daily for dinner. Prices from Rp30,000 to Rp 40,000.

Tel: 730588 PIASAN, Kayumanis Nusa Dua ENCLOSED by clear glass, Piasan offers an intimate dining experience as table settings are for not more than four in the main dining area, while each of the four tables on the outdoor terrace next to a pond seat only two. A smooth and modern black marble floor paired with a layer of polished brown rustic bamboo rods hanging from the ceiling ups the stylishness of the 24-seat Italian eatery at Kayumanis Nusa Dua. The genteel staff is never intrusive, yet always sensitive to your needs. Even executive chef I Made Budharta will come out occasionally from

the kitchen to ensure that guests' dishes are as expected. That is when he is not swamped with orders for the restaurant’s most popular pasta dish, Penne alla Vodka, which is a delicious serving of pencil pasta and bacon in light cream and vodka. We are also partial to both chef Made’s version of gnocchi Gorgonzola, which earns top marks for the rich flavourful sauce, and the Spaghetti Pescatore topped with a piece of soft shell crab. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Prices from Rp165,000 to Rp220,000.

Tel: 770777 PANDORA, Jl. Petitenget OWNER and chef of Pandora, Massimiliano, is a natural cook who honed his cooking skills while working in Switzerland and Germany. He believes that good food is made with fresh ingredients, and this is perfectly seen in the rich dark green hue of the pesto sauce covering the Gnocchi al Pesto, pounded in the kitchen with a generous amount of basil leaves. Max, as he is commonly known, has given his personal touch to ingredients used in preparing some of the 12 pasta dishes available at the restaurant. Like replacing cream with milk in the Spaghetti Carbonara and in the Fusilli ai Quattro Formaggi, so that the full flavour of the egg yolk and four cheeses in the corresponding pastas are brought out fully. Often seen cooking alongside his staff when the restaurant is busy, Max is also known to strum some Blues tunes on his electric guitar when the pace is not so frantic. The 60-seat eatery has al fresco seating in the back garden, reminiscent of dining in Italy at a villa transformed into a restaurant. Open daily dinner. Prices from Rp32,000 to Rp45,000.

Tel: 7474637 Yak Map ref: D5 CUCINA ITALIANA RUSTICA, Jl. Batubelig A WOMAN'S dream of running a restaurant is made real with Cucina Italiana Rustica, set up by one of her sons who wanted to share his mother's cooking with others.

The restaurant’s name acknowledges the wholesome goodness of the countryside and life in Italy, which can be tasted through the fresh ingredients handpicked daily by the owner Luigina from quality suppliers, and reflected in her warm smile greeting

everyone who dines here. The pastas are presented the same way she would do them at home: choose from maltagliati, tagliatelle, gnocchi, spaghetti and penne to be cooked with one of 12 sauces, including aglio olio peperoncino, carbonara, and Bolognese. Your pasta can also be prepared al dente (to the bite) or well cooked. Of note is the panna pesto sauce, which has cream blended in with the traditional ingredients of crushed basil, olive oil and pinenuts. After eating through all the 60 pasta and sauce combinations, you can still return for the daily specials that usually feature seafood such as prawns or mussels, depending on market availability. Pastas are available for lunch and dinner. Prices from Rp25,000 to Rp45,000.

Tel: 8064742 Yak Map ref: F3 IL RISTORANTE, Bulgari Hotels & Resort ALTHOUGH possessing a common name, a prandial experience at Il Ristorante, the fine dining establishment at Bulgari Hotels & Resort Bali, is anything but. An early start for dinner offers true rewards: an expansive view of the horizon over the Indian Ocean, before elegant spotlights bounce off the chic black interiors creating an enchanting soft glow that emanates throughout the restaurant through the night. Staff service is impeccable, as one would imagine in the Bulgari Hotel, giving you the sense of being the only diner present from arrival up to departure, even if the 36-seat restaurant is fully occupied. The often changing menu is a result of the pasionate creativity of chef Diego Martinelli, who skillfuly incorporates seasonal ingredients with pasta handcrafted in his kitchen. The exquisitely presented pasta selections are exclusive to Bulgari's Il Ristorante – on the menu for our evening visit were freshly made tagliatelle with poached Atlantic lobster topped with organic asparagus, bisque sauce and lobster foam; handmade egg tagliolini in butter and fresh thyme sauce, with norcia black summer truffle; duck and mascarpone cheese stuffed tortellini with rosemary sauce; oven baked cannelloni with tomato and mozzarella sauce. Open daily for dinner. Look forward to a treat. Prices from Rp190,000 to Rp350,000.

Tel: 8471112.

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Constant Wining

Red Alert Katrina Valkenburg discovers a bargain at the back of the store…and celebrates in appropriate style.

Many moons ago, in the early part of the 1980s, I was married to a wine journalist with a wallet as large as his ego.

Every bottle he opened was accompanied by long-winded diatribes of from where, by whom, how, when and so on, and so on. I was young and impressionable and deeply in love but I was more concerned with the effect the wine would have on me rather than the history lesson, often looking at the label to find out how high the alcohol reading was – more bang for your buck as they say.

But then one day, out of the blue, along came a wine that took me by surprise.

We had decided to go away for a long weekend in the Blue Mountains a couple of hours west of Sydney and stopped at a dilapidated hotel to purchase a few bottles to see us through the first night. My husband was keen to get to our destination as soon as possible so entrusted me with choosing a couple of bottles. In such an out of the way location with little passing traffic, he presumed that there was not going to be a very good selection and as long as I spent up to the A$40 he’d given me and the purchases were red, I couldn’t go too wrong.

I emerged from the ‘bottlo’ with a grin from ear to ear.

What I had found in the darkened cubbyhole of a cellar were two bottles of 1971 Chateau Latour Grand Vin. The husband went berserk when I told him the price. I had two exceptional bottles under my right arm and nearly half the money he’d given me in the left.

I remember distinctly the price that was written in faded white crayon – $12.78 – this at a time when we were used to paying $10 for current vintage local plonk. My only conclusion was that someone had got it very wrong indeed when they first calculated the price and that over the years, perhaps new owners had come in and, without knowing much about the stock they had on hand, left the top shelf wines as they’d found them – untouched and covered in dust.

We sped toward our weekend love shack dropping the bags immediately as we scrambled to free the cork from the first bottle and discover what lay inside. Although only 14

years old by this time, hence, an immature adolescent for great Bordeaux wines, the aroma hit me like a thunderbolt, it was electrifying; no wine had affected me so acutely. I had been trained by the ‘expert’ to swirl, sniff and smell before taking the first sip but I really only ever wanted to imbibe most wines as soon as possible. But this was a very different wine.

I lingered over the aroma trying to pinpoint what was so enticing – I had never before been transported to such stratospheric heights by a glass of wine. By the time this liquid ambrosia entered my mouth, I was gone, I had become a wine snob.

Bordeaux is a large region that produces over 700 million bottles of wine every year. The vast majority are inexpensive, everyday wines which can cost as little as US$2.50 per bottle, although these wines are generally consumed in France within a couple of years of production.

At the other end of the scale, there is a very small category of wines whose image and reputation has created a “halo effect” over the entire region. Their Chateau names alone have an almost exotic resonance: Lafite, Latour, Mouton Rothschild, Haut Brion, Margaux, Petrus and Yquem.

These are the rare, sometimes exquisite, and very often astonishingly expensive products, for which certain customers are willing to pay US$6,000, or even more, for a single bottle!

So who’s buying these top wines?

To put Bordeaux’s reputation into perspective, we should understand more about the people who buy its wines and look a little more closely at the foundations of its reputation. Economic growth in both western and eastern economies over the last decade has increased demand for luxury brands in all consumer categories, including fine wine.

There are four categories of fine wine buyers: The Connoisseur. The genuinely knowledgeable connoisseurs who are interested in and love the subtle characteristics and complexities of wine created by different vintages, soil types, locations and so on. This group generally have ideal cellar conditions in which to store their prized

purchases and can afford to pay hundreds of dollars per bottle on release.

The Drinker. The second category are those buyers who are, perhaps, less interested in understanding the nuances of individual wines but simply enjoy the flavours of familiar and or reputable labels.

The Pesky Wine Snob. The third category includes a small but annoying group of self-appointed ‘wine connoisseurs’ who glean great joy not from the wine itself but from using their professed knowledge to look down on or intimidate others.

The Pretender. The fourth category includes relative newcomers to the world of top-end wine purchasing – the super-rich individuals who have absolutely no interest in the nuances or characteristics of the wine but simply want to be seen to be drinking what they perceive to be the most prestigious or expensive wine in the world.

The Money Bags. The fifth category is an extremely important one, the investor. These individuals are interested in specific vintages from specific producers and reap great joy, and spectacular profits, from cellaring their asset. He or she is an investor and trader and will probably never pull a cork from the bottles they own.

The days of discovering under-priced wines in far-flung places have probably all but disappeared with the advent of supermarket domination in the business of selling wine.

However, if you have a wallet as large as my ex-husband’s ego, it is well worth tracking down a wine merchant with a passionate attitude to wine and ask for assistance if you’re not up to reading between the lines on French wine labels.

As an aside, the 1971 Chateau Latour Grand Vin should have retailed at around US$50 in 1985 and although the wine would not have improved from around 2000, still had another 10 years drinking potential. Had we not scoffed it, the wine would now fetch around US$800 per bottle.

Katrina Valkenburg is a wine consultant & educator. All correspondence to katrinav@mac.com

Constant Wining

Free Radicals

Expats here are increasingly opting to give birth Bali. Is it the right choice, asks Jen Davis?

Free Radicals

Times change. Fifteen years ago, safety aside, many women went off island for modern medical attitudes and a more pleasant birthing experience. Old-fashioned practices – keeping the father from the birthing room, taking the baby away immediately after birth – were still the norm in Bali.

Some still go home to family. Others go to Singapore, but it’s no longer necessary medically unless you are in a “high risk” category, and can be very expensive waiting for the baby’s arrival. But if you choose a birthing centre and your support team carefully, you can have a delightful experience right here in Bali. There are hospitals with good birthing facilities, capable health clinics, competent, dedicated doctors, and at least two really outstanding midwives. There are good vitamins and healthy foods. The vast majority of women can have a safe, healthy pregnancy and go home with a delightful, healthy little bundle in their arms.

Anywhere in the world, it’s smart to get organised early in your pregnancy. Things can go wrong, so if you are termed “high risk” by your doctor and midwife, you will have time to make decisions and go off island.

MAGIC MIDWIVES Bali has special people in all walks of life; two of them help bring Bali’s babies into the world. Midwife Robin Lim, of Bumi Sehat Clinic, won the Alexander Langer Peace Award for her work with Balinese pregnant women and children.

Bumi Sehat’s health clinic and birth-

ing centre at Nyuh Kuning near Ubud is open for anybody, with services offered on a donation/ability to pay basis. Robin’s team “catches a lot of babies”, as she puts it, sometimes several in the same night. They run a weekly (Monday) clinic with alternative health providers offering acupuncture, osteopathy and other services. Given the number of women helped (521 births in Ubud in 2007), it’s not surprising that Robin’s recommendations are regarded highly. So if you live up north, a check-up at Bumi Sehat is a good start.

Those down south, Robin says, should go straight to Kim Patra, who is qualified in both Australia and Indonesia. (There are very few qualified expat midwives in Bali because of the complicated registration process.)

From nursing and midwifery in South Australia, Kim came here to windsurf, but like Robin moved into her current work in response to women’s needs. She helped set up a health clinic at Bali International School, has assisted in many medical evacuations for 15 years, and helped arrange triage for evacuation after the first Bali bomb. Kim’s website is www.chcbali.com, and she runs Community Health Care on Jl. Dewi Sri, Kuta, offering midwifery support, a pre-natal centre and classes, mother and baby supplies, women’s and children health assessments and medical equipment rental. GP Dr Ristie Darmawan (former Medical Director, BIMC) and Parkway Medical Group’s Singapore referral centre shares the centre.

Robin recommends asking Kim to attend a hospital birth. “It costs you more

money, but it is worth it. She is on good terms with the doctors, they respect her, and she’ll notice things from your perspective, make sure things go the way you want,” Robin says.

In 2007, Kim saw 72 pre-natal patients, most of whom also attended CHC’s birthing classes. She supported 42 of them through birth at Prima Medika Hospital, 12 as C-Sections. We asked Kim to take us through the check-up process for a “typical” pregnancy.

CHECK-UPS & CLASSES Kim says it is important for doctors and clinicians not to get too dependent on their sophisticated equipment. “A good nurse or doctor can still tell a lot by using their hands and other simple diagnostics, and by their questions,” she says. So somewhere between eleven and 14 weeks, book a first appointment with Kim or another professional. The “family medical practice” of SOS Clinic on Jl. Sanur Bypass near Kuta draws many patients. They will ask questions and arrange pre-natal tests. Most diagnostic information about your developing baby will come out of this meeting. Kim recommends meeting the pregnant woman every month up till 32 weeks, every two weeks until 36 weeks and then every week until the baby is born. Her Community Health Care Centre offers prenatal yoga, an excellent library and pre-natal massage (this can be very good for you, but there are some exercises and oils that should not be used).

Starting at six months, most women and their partners attend pre-natal classes,

including hypno-therapy to help relax during the birth. One father at CHC’s Mothers and Babies morning said the classes were invaluable for him. “I learnt how to be a support person, to be an active part of the birthing process,” he said.

Robin says Kim’s hypno-birthing classes are one of the keys to a happy birth for expat babies. “I notice that those who go to Kim’s pre-birth classes have shorter labours and nicer birth experiences all around”.

Robin, who has attended hundreds of expat births, says women who come to live in Bali are often independent, and like to be in control of their lives. And that’s why they can have trouble with childbirth.

“Intelligent people can be control freaks,” she says. “They can’t give birth to a tooth pick until they can get out of their own minds, relax, just let the baby come! It can mean the difference between 24 hours or four hours in labour.”

At 18-20 weeks it is time for a foetal scan with your doctor. Make sure to say whether you want to know the sex of the baby. It is up to you; so don’t risk them blurting it out.

One new father in Ubud is still seething; he asked the technician not to say anything.

The answer, “But why not, it’s so obvious…”, waving at the equipment.

CHOOSING YOUR HOSPITAL When the baby’s ready to meet the world, you should be ready. It’s a very special time, so choose your hospital carefully. Of course, consider quality of medical care. Take advice from your midwife and doctor, medical ex-

Free Radicals

pertise is more important than a fancy suite.

Think about cost, language barriers, emergency access, parking, whether your own midwife or doctor can work there. And then consider comfort – do you want a private room? Look for signs of cleanliness and customer service. Friendliness.

Several hospitals have separate birthing facilities or “wings”, and some have recently developed International sections, often charging the same as Singapore. Some of these are listed in Info Box on this page.

In most Bali hospitals, the patients’ family provides private services including meals, washing and laundry, though in the “international sections”, the much higher fees cover some of this. Talk about it and visit the hospital with your midwife.

Prima Medika Hospital, an Indonesian

private hospital with no international wing, was praised by everyone we asked. SOS sends most of their clients there, often with Kim as midwife. Prima Medika’s paediatricians include Dr Kardana, who trained in Neo-natal Care at the National University Hospital Singapore.

This hospital is aligned with Western medical practice. Private birthing rooms are available, if you want, at the same price or cheaper than Sanglah’s international beds.

They encourage breastfeeding, not the formula milk that is still promoted heavily in Indonesia.

After seeing the success of deliveries for women using Kim’s Hypno-birthing course, Prima Medika staff are also planning to attend training in this technique. (At Bumi Sehat, water births are a commonly chosen

option by expats and locals alike. Robin says research suggests a water birth is safer, relaxing the mother and reducing the risk of infection.)

One of the mothers we interviewed at Kim’s centre said this was her second baby; the first had been born in her hometown of Stuttgart. “We were living in Vietnam at the time and did not want to risk the hospitals there. Home with family was lovely. Our situation is different this time. We don’t have our own house in Germany, so moving with our first child into my parents’ small home would be difficult. It was winter there. And Bali is different. We found Kim, and Prima Medika was very professional,” she said.

Every birth is different, careful preparation can take a lot of the anxiety out of the experience, making it easier to enjoy the birth.

THE NEXT FEW MONTHS

Hospitals – Southside

Obstetricians include: Dr Ilyas and Dr Putu Sarjana. No specific international section.

Emergencies/Advice and Support (South)

761 263. info@bimcbali.com.

24-Hour Medical & Emergency Centre.

Primary health care for tourists, travellers and expatriates living in Bali. Has five hospital beds, but no maternity beds.

SANGLAH PUBLIC HOSPITAL (Full facilities, with new international wing.)

Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar, Tel: 62 361 227911, 62 361 227912.

Positives: A new international wing built with the support of the Australian government after the first Bali bomb.

Excellent technical facilities, including Neonatal Special Care Unit, and Neo-Natal Intensive Care.

Concerns: No maternity beds in International. The traffic is often very heavy around Sanglah; it is often very difficult to find a car park – not a good thing once labour has begun. One husband dropped his wife at the lobby; by the time he and midwife in separate cars found somewhere to park, 20 minutes later, the baby was born. Limited English outside office hours.

PRIMA MEDIKA HOSPITAL (Private, with more than 20 percent of patients international.) Jl. Pulau Sarangan No 9X, Denpasar, Tel: 62 361 236225 Fax: 62-361-236203. Email: rspm@indosat.net.id Positives: Paediatric and Obstetric Clinics.

Excellent relationships with embassies; Japanese Embassy always helps supply translators. Doctors speak good English.

BIMC and SOS refer patients here. Your own qualified midwife is welcome.

Paediatricians: Dr Kardana and Dr Made.

KASIH IBU HOSPITAL (Private with special maternity unit, and international section).

Jl. Teuku Umar No 120, Tel: 62 361 223036, 62 361 237016.

Positives: Kasih Ibu Hospital has five “hotel style” rooms for international in-patients, and English-speaking staff.

SURYA HUSADHA HOSPITAL (Private with new International division).

Jl. Pulau Sarangan No 7, Denpasar 0361 233 787. Website http://www.shihbali.com International Services launched December ’07. Has maternity facilities.

PURI BUNDA HOSPITAL Jl. Gatot Subroto VI #19, Denpasar, Tel: +62 361 437999 www.puribunda.com

Hospitals – Northside MAS MEDICAL CLINIC; ARI CANTI HOSPITAL Jl Raya Mas. Tel: 0361 98 2224 Small hospital with surgery and lab.

Dr Wedagama, Obstetrician / Gynaecologist. * Robin Lim’s suggestion.

Office hours check ups for pregnant women (check times).

COMMUNITY HEALTH CARE Jl. Dewi Sri, Kuta. Tel: 0361 761929; Fax 0361 762521. Kim A. Patra, SRN & Registered midwife. Mobile 081 236 600 00. General Practitioner, Dr Ristie Darmawan Mobile 081 238 185 70. Offering family medicine, travel medicine/vaccination centre, Singapore medical referral centre, Midwifery support, a pre-natal centre and classes, pharmacy and mothers and baby supplies, women’s and children health assessments and medical equipment rental.

INTERNATIONAL SOS Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai, Denpasar. Tel: 62 361 710505.

Comprehensive primary health care and 24-hour emergency medical services. Best international network for emergency airlifts.

PRIMA MEDIKA NUSA DUA OUTPATIENT CLINIC Pertokoan Niaga. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No 9. Tel: 0361 770 0509.

After the birth, Kim begins what she calls her “drive arounds” – the essential home visits. She checks in daily for the first week, in hospital or home; then once a week for the first month, and once a month for the first six months. She offers breast-feeding support, maternal checks, advice with contraception, vaccination. And most mothers also join the fortnightly Mothers and Babies Club, the only such support group on the island, for the first year.

SOS, BIMC, Sanglah, Prima Medika, Kasih Ibu, Bumi Sehat and others also offer paediatric check-ups, with all the vaccinations and tests your child needs to grow up healthy in Bali. www.bumisehatbali.org www.chcbali.com

Emergencies/Advice and Support (North) UBUD: BUMI SEHAT FOUNDATION. Nyuh Kuning Village. Tel: 0361 970 002 or 0361 972 969/ Email iburobin@ bumisehatbali.org Women with pregnancy problems, whether living in Ubud area, or travelling and pregnant, should immediately contact Bumi Sehat.

Positives: Midwives available 24/7. Women’s and children’s clinics.

Head Bidan Jero Susanti. Dr Wayan Sudiarsana, MD, 5pm clinic. List of home birthing assistants available.

PRIMA MEDIKA UBUD OUTPATIENT CLINIC Jl. Br. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud, Gianyar. Near Bumi Sehat. Tel: 0361 972 374.

KUTA CLINIC Jl. Raya Kuta. Tel: 62-361-753268.

UBUD CLINIC Jl. Raya Ubud No. 36 Campuhan. Tel : 62 361 974911.

BIMC HOSPITAL Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai, Denpasar. Tel 0361

BALI EMERGENCY RESPONSE CENTRE - DIAL (0361) 112

Yak Awards 2008

Yak Awards 2008

The Yak Awards 2008

Oh! What a night it was. What we can remember of it, anyhow. First there was the set up. Frantic would be the word, but it’s amazing how things come together in the last 15 minutes. Out rolled the pink carpet, up went the Vodka Ice Shooter (you had to experience it); in came the oysters (from Australia) and, pop went the Moet Champagne corks. The Yak Awards 2008 – we think you will agree – was something of a success. Except for our bank balance, that is, which took rather a hammering.

Nevertheless, you are all worth it. The venue was of course Ku De Ta, centre of cool,

and attractions were many and various, including cocktails that overflowed (thanks to Bar Solutions), burgers that positively bounced (courtesy of Monsieur Wah, who wore a T-Shirt bearing the immortal words “I’d FCUK me”); canapés from a bevy of five star chefs; entertainment that spanned ethnic to contemporary; a vision of Zen Lemonade’s latest album and, of course, The Yak Awards. And, if anyone needs reminding, here’s a list of the latest and greatest who walked off with a coveted pink Y. Yakkers, we salute you.

Yak Awards 2008

Yak Awards 2008

Yak Awards 2008

And the winners were . . .

Best Newcomer - Anantara Resort

Best Retail Space Jenggala Ceramics, Jimbaran

Bar of the Year - Ku De Ta

Best Villa - Aqua

Best Spa - Maya Ubud Best Resort 2008 - Bvlgari

Best Sunset Venue 2008 Breeze at The Samaya

DJ of the Year 2008 - Kevin K

Yak Man of the Year Bruno Vaillant, E Wine Asia Yak Women of the Year 2008 Jocelyn Cunningham, Ku De Ta

Fashion Designer of the Year Lulu, from Lulu Boutiques Chef of the Year Doudou, Kafe Warisan

Best Community Services Award John Fawcett, Eye Clinic

Ad Campaign of the Year - Biasa Best Event Ubud Readers & Writers Festival

Outstanding Achievement Award Jack Daniels

Best Ubud Restaurant 2008 - Mozaic

Best Ubud Hotel - Four Seasons Sayan

Ubudian of the Year Koman Wahyu Suteja Neka Victor Mason

Yak Awards 2008

Thank You To All Our Sponsors

Yak Fashion

Yak Fashion

p. 132-133 Dress and Bag, Rhapsody; Necklace, 7Pers; Shoes and Bracelet, Sabbatha p.134 Brunette: Top, Puravida; Vest, Puravida Blonde: Top Short Sleeve, Puravida; Top Long Sleeve, Puravida; Necklace, 7Pers; Shoes, Paul Ropp; Head Band, Puravida p.135 Dress, Puravida; Shorts, Puravida; Vest, 7Pers; Shoes, Puravida; Necklace, Paul Ropp; Bracelet, Kerry Grima p.136 Dress, Paul Ropp; Belt Shawl, Kerry Grima; Necklace, 7Pers; p.137 Vest, 7Pers; Dress, Puravida p.138 Top, Body&Soul, Pants, Kerry Grima_Shiva Diva; Shoes, Puravida; Vest, Body&Soul; Bracelet & Necklace, 7Pers p.139 Necklace & Earrings, Jemme; Long Leather Coat, Kerry Grima Photography by Vincent Sung, Visual Sponge, Korea Styling, Hair and Make-up by Bobby Models from So Wanted Agency Bikes & parts by Kickass Choppers, Kerobokan

Yak Fashion

Yak YakFashion Fashion

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Yak Fashion

Yak Fashion

Yak Fashion

Yak Fashion

Members of The Cloth

Made de Coney is the name behind Bali fashion label Lily Jean.

What’s your name?

Made de Coney.

What do you do?

I'm the designer of Lily Jean.

Do you love it?

Yes! Where were you born and how did you grow up?

I was born in Bali. I lived most of my life between Bali and Brazil…I studied fashion in the US and moved back to live in Bali permanently in 2000.

If you didn’t do what you’re doing, what would you do?

I would probably be working in the fashion industry; I suppose as a stylist or managing shops…which is what I did to pay for my studies…

What’s the worst thing about the fashion business?

Greed and envy.

What’s the best?

The creative part. To make your vision materialize itself. The whole process of picking materials, colours, finishings etc...and last but not least, seeing people wearing the product of your imagination.

What would you define as a classic Lily Jean style?

Timeless, classic and sexy.

How did you come up with the name?

My daughter’s name is Lily Jean. I named her after my two grandmothers. When I decided to create a label, I thought it was the perfect name for a fashion line.

Are there times when you think, to hell with the expense. I could use a cheaper fabric but I’m going with this expensive cloth instead?

Of course, always! We prioritize quality all around.

What’s your favourite material?

Tencil and all types of silk and all mixtures of rayon.

How many countries are you in, as a business?

We're in twelve countries.

How important are the Bali boutiques to your business?

Very important. They are the door to the rest of the world for me.

From my shops I showcase my product, the feeling and the look.

Do you have a fashion icon? A model, a singer during a certain

period…who you think, yes, that’s us, that’s Lily Jean.

I’m inspired by many people: my grandmother, by Audrey Hepburn, Karl Lagerfeld, Madonna and many more.

What’s the worst fashion faux pas, in your opinion?

A lack of creativity and sense of style.

How important is it for you to be seen out on the town?

Most people don’t know I’m Lily Jean. I like the label to stand for itself. I think it’s important for the image of Lily Jean to be out there, by using marketing tools.

Is Lily Jean going places, as a brand?

We’re expanding every year, at a healthy rate.

What’s your most precious item of clothing, or most beloved accessory?

An antique belt my father gave me when I was 16. And Jimmy Choos…

Have you ever thought, I’ve had enough of the competition, the egos and the crap that many people say goes with the rag trade, and just decided to say, sod it, I'm going to do something else for a living?

No, I think every industry has its futilities, it’s just part of the game.

When was the last time you thought, my life is fantastic, I wouldn't change it for the world?

Every day!

Are you religious? Do you believe in reincarnation?

That’s every person’s individual search.

If we asked your friends to sum you up in three or four words, what would those words be?

I don’t know, you must ask my friends!

What's the best piece of advice you've ever been given?

What you give is what you get. Payback is a bitch.

How can fashion make the world a better place?

It can’t make the world a better place but it can make an individual feel better for a moment in time in this crazy world we live in.

I need to wear something fab for the Yak Awards tomorrow night. What should it be?

One of our elastic dresses…

Well, that should be interesting, considering I’m an 80-kilo, non-cross-dressing male!

Members of The Cloth

Fashion Freestyle

Fashion Freestyle

www.bodyandsoulclothing.com

Fashion Freestyle

Taal Telp. 7806087

Fashion Freestyle

K&1 Telp. 737025

Fashion Freestyle

Lily Jean Tel. 8475678

Fashion Freestyle

www.dejongfashion.com

Fashion Freestyle

www.uluwatu.co.id

Fashion Freestyle

www.paulropp.com

Fashion Freestyle

www.sabbathabali.com

Freestyle Fashion

www.kerrygrima.com

Freestyle Fashion

www.dejongfashion.com

Raver's Review

AfroDiziYaks Dancefloor Sessions Vol.2 Mixed by Miss Nine Armada Album Review By Lou Nietunz German feline Kristen Schrot began her career at the tender age of 16, turning heads on Europe’s catwalks. From there she began to pursue her love of music and moved to Amsterdam. In 2005, she was invited to join the A-list deejay agency Bullitt Bookings, and the following year she became the first female invited to mix a compilation by Washington-based Yoshitoshi label. Four months after that album’s release, she had reached the number one spot on the iTunes Dance Album chart!

Judging by such a quick rise through ranks in an often male-dominated industry, this lady knows what she wants, and her music knows how to get it.

For the second edition of Armada’s Dancefloor Session series, Miss Nine begins methodically with a House rock beat from fellow Yoshitoshi stable-mate, Sultan.

Reminiscent of Chicane, sweeping strings and piano keys fall and overlap gradually building up like layers of fallen leaves. Before long, a drummroll and synth bassline

AfroDiziYaks Album: Mind Of It’s Own Artist: DJ Karizma Label: R2 Records Album Review By Lou Nietunz Baltimore HipHouse deejay phenom Chris Clayton AKA DJ Karizma has been tweaking turntables since he was 13. Now having collected numerous production and remix credits to his name for the likes of

kicks in, and we are on our way. Dana Bergquist & Peder G’s next track, aptly named Pole Vault, organically expands and lifts you up slowly to Nick Nokolov’s Skypies.

The vibe is a rich mix of minimal and progressive grooves, shaken further by Glowfield’s Static. These openers set the stage for Falling Rain, a Miss Nine original that combines melancholy tremolo with a badass bassline and guitar stabs. This classicly then works up to Greg Cerrone and Claudia Kennaugh’s vocal epic Invincable, which then leads on to the summer landmark classic No Sudden Moves by Glenn Morrison.

The harmonics mellow for a moment to reflect with the somber Familiar Places

by Envotion, before returning to speed with Precious, a divine big-room collaboration between Andrew Bennet and Rico Soares. This leads you to Pepe’s Garden, a quirky blissed-out anthem by Jaytech, before returning to earth with Eddie Williams’

Gestation Part 1, a pulsing orchestral ode to alien embryos, and finishes off with One Day, a triumphant synth-washed return to the beginning by Sultan and friends.

For the second CD, Miss Nine continues her tribal tour de force gently picking up the tempo with the cheeky snowcapped classic Caribou by Dousk. Border Patrol follows with Back to Start, taking you deeper beyond enemy lines. Spaced out vocals, like that of a tribal queen’s call to the Gods clear the stage for Get Raw by the Dirt Crew. This bouncy bridge leads across the valley to another classic, Monkey Square, reworked by Isma-Ae and Strobe.

Another Miss Nine original then appears in the form of Nevertheless, a deep synthy jaunt with gritty basslines and escalating keys. This then works into Green Hematite

by Harper&Amp, an airy teched-out vibraphone piece, offering a welcome respite from the deeper frequencies with lulls and light percussion. Dobenbeck’s Please Don’t Go follows with a gorgeous yet bittersweet

all-knowing flute-fest, before returning to the dirty sounds of Glenn Morrisson’s Blue Skies with Linda and Glowfield’s Virus. The album begins to shut down with Gerry Menu’s Lay & Play, chased by Timo Garcia & Ricky Stone’s guitar-fused Rattlesnake.

Arnej’s Rendezvous winds down the affair in sweeping style, but not without one last surprise boogiefest before gently setting you back on your sofa, dazzled by the whole Nine.

One can only applaud this album’s smoothness and savvy, yet a wider range of sounds and vibes would bring that spice of variety even further. However, the cool seamlessness may just be what satisfies the European mindset best. Her live sets are even more captivating, as was clear at her recent gig at Anantara Resort’s SOS Lounge. So keep a look out for new releases or live set coming to a club near you.

More info at www.armadamusic.com & www.miss-nine.com

Mary J Blige, Lenny Kravitz, Everything But The Girl, Roy Ayers and many others, Karizma’s flair for the rare is a highly sought after commodity. Though not commercially well known, this wiry House cat is a deceptively powerful man behind the decks.

Anyone present recently at The Junction ’08 House Festival Closing Party at Hu’u Bar will surely attest to this. Karizma was like a man possessed. Most of the time he was mixing with his eyes closed, head fallen back, as if in meditation or an out of body experience. 800 people were transfixed until 5am when he finally unplugged his lollypop earphone to tumultuous applause.

For his debut artist album A Mind of It’s Own, Karizma starts the party right with the mellow sunny soul interlude Good Morning (Rok Da Bellsalude) before getting into it with Tech This Out Pt. 2, a cozy House breakbeat ice breaker.

It is his savoir faire for effortlessly bend-

ing genres to join hands and clap for their unwitting marriage that sets this man apart from the rest. Bugs In The Attic are the only ones that come close. The deep 80’s synth key fade makes a return on Saturn, a divine headbobbing anthem that makes it’s home where ever it’s heard before stepping up the ante with some two-step goodness on the urbanly hypnotic Twyst This.

The vibe continues to get dirty and dirtier with Didn’t See It Comin’, a drummy floor thumping dance march that just doesn’t let up, leading onto The Damn Thing which keeps that sweaty batucada sound sweating. Slowing down for a breather is K3, a triumphant thriller of badness that struts nothing but goodness, trumpets heralding and all. K.O.N.G. kicks it back into gear with a frenetic energy reminiscent of It Takes Two and Fight The Power at the same time! Sad Isn’t It turns moody, working off a woeful crackly violin loop before launching

into more badness with Tha D, deeper than before with brooding fuzzy warm organ chords.

It’s not just a joyride of tempos and genres, but emotions also. From joy to pain to excitement to rest to joy and around again. All Teched Out further fuses breakbeat attitude with Tech House vibes, again in flawless style. The result is gritty yet warm, dreamy yet real. Good Knight serves as a dutiful outro as if to say, Thanks for having me and… I’ll rock you again real soon!

One can only marvel at this man’s musical prowess and invention, especially after a live show, and only hope that one day in the not so distant future, his magic will be known from dancefloors to living rooms to rooftops around the world! Karizma was also at the helm for the recent Coast2Coast series double CD release.

For more info: www.myspace.com/kohesiveproductions

Sounds Around

House Call Lou Nietunz catches up with Chicago-based House songstress DJ Colette – on the heels of her Push album tour – for some Q&A on how she came to make dance music her art form and why she won’t be singing in a choir again anytime soon…

So, you came from a musical family?

Well, my mother sang, you know, in a choir for many years, and my father was more of a music lover and collector. He would always make sure something was playing in the house. Anything from jazz, to rock…even when I was a baby, but I don’t remember what it was at that point! I took piano lessons for five years and studied classical voice for nine.

Who would you say were your influences during your formative years?

Well, let’s see. I guess I was a big fan of Blondie, you know Deborah Harry, and of course it was the ’80s, so Madonna. And, in high school, Lady Miss Kier, from DeeLite.

How did you make the jump from classical music to dance music?

It just kind of happened when I started going to House parties in Chicago in ’89 and ’90. I was still singing in the choir at that point, but just started hearing all this great music at underground or basement parties. I mean, they were totally illegal, it didn’t matter how old you were, but they had great music by these up-and-coming DJ’s like Mark Farina and Derrick Carter, and, you know, I was hooked. For a while I was going to these parties on weekends and singing choir during the week, and finally I started singing at some of the parties.

So when did you make your first recording?

My first record came out when I was 19 and it was called Moments of Epiphany, but I was 17 when I first started recording at a friend’s studio and it went from there. I was always into music and wanted to do it, but I didn’t really know how it would turn out, or the design of it. But with the choir, it just got to this point where I was like, errr…

Were any of your other choir friends exploring other avenues of music?

No. I mean, I’m still in touch with some friends from the choir and they’re still doing classical stuff. I think my main choir director would not be happy with the stuff I’m doing now! The last time I was doing a solo for a piece with the choir, these older women were saying that I sounded like a Pop singer, and I was like, what am I doing? But in the end, you know, I’m really thankful for going through that, and I learned a lot by doing it, but now it just doesn’t sit with me the same way, and for me, it’s just not my thing. I just don’t get the same vibe. House music is more experimental, and

classical is more regimented. That’s what the main difference is for me. Classical is all about playing those notes the proper way, or singing them the proper way.

So from there, how did you first get started with your female group SuperJane?

SuperJane started in ’97, so I finished college in ’94, and DJ Heather said you’re gonna be the one to sing on this! But I wasn’t ready and didn’t know what to play yet. The two other members were DJ Dayhota and Lady D, and we started playing at these parties, and I was so nervous, and all these top DJs were there, like Derrick Carter and Gene Farris, and I was like what am I doing? I mean, I was a promoter for a long time, so for me to switch gears and start deejaying was pretty nerve-wracking. You can practice at home all you want, but it’s different when you step up and play in front of a crowd, so it took a while to get used to.

How would you describe the Chicago House sound, as compared to elsewhere?

Well, Chicago is where warehouse parties started, so there’s

a lot of history to it. Generally, there’s a deep funkyness to it. Derrick Carter always calls it the boompty sound, it’s the boompty!

So how has traveling through your music changed your perceptions of the world?

It’s opened me up to the world. I mean, how many places can you go, like on holiday? Through music, I’ve been able to visit so many places that I never thought I would.

Like here, for example. It’s been wonderful.

When you return to Chicago, does it feel different?

I don’t live in Chicago anymore, I live in LA now, but yeah, after being away for a few weeks it feels good to get back home. I do love where I live. But I think music is universal, so when I’m travelling, even though the language and cultures are different, you’re able to communicate through sound, which is really unique.

Ok, who would be your dream-date in the recording studio?

Ha ha! Hmmm, well that’s tough. But you know, someone who I think would be a lot of fun, even though they’re not in my genre of music, I would really like to work with Timbaland. I love a lot of his stuff. I mean, not all, but then again I don’t love all of my stuff either! But he just seems to like taking risks, so yeah.

How did it go with using a live band for your tour of the Push album?

It was great. It was nerve-wracking, because you don’t have full control, and that was scary, but we had great musicians and singers, and it was a lot of fun.

What would you say was your best gig so far and why?

I would have to say one of my favourite gigs was the Coachella Festival. It’s been going about nine years, in Indio, California, about two hours away from LA. It’s just really cool because they do multiple genres, from dance music to rock. There’s 16 to 20,000 people there at a time. It’s near the desert, it’s frickin hot! I haven’t been to Burning Man, but there are elements of Burning Man at Coachella, some of the same artists and sculptors, so for me it was really, really special. With a daytime gig it’s a little bit weird, as you can see everybody. The day that I played, there was also Derrick Carter, Carl Cox and even Madonna played that stage, it was amazing. Even Kraftwerk. I mean, they were the originators, they gotta be in their late '50s. It was classic. www.djcolette.com www.omrecords.com

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Mood Food

Mood Food

Sunshine State You’ve seen the sign now take the turning…Ma Joly sets the mood with French and Asian cuisine.

Driving up the hill from Seminyak is always a relief, but should you be heading further than Ubud, it’s always an idea to stop for lunch before heading into the mountains beyond.

Foregoing the lunchtime Martini at a certain warung-style eatery opposite Museum Neka, there’s a quieter, more serene spot worth considering – Ma Joly.

You’ve seen the sign but possibly never been in. Ma Joly is the restaurant within Kupu Kupu Barong, the cliff-top hotel that overlooks the Ayung River Valley. Make the left off the road where you see the Ma Joly logo and drive to the entrance of the resort, rather strangely placed next to a warung, then walk down to the restaurant just a few short steps away.

Ma Joly is charming. Set on a split-level with an outdoor terrace for that full river valley experience, the restaurant serves

French food as well as Indonesian and Balinese favourites. It clearly serves as a destination for resort-stayers (whether it be breakfast, lunch or dinner) but equally as a stand-alone restaurant worth a visit for any meal of the day.

Try the homemade drinks: a limoncello or orancello prepared from fruit in the resort garden. There’s also a selection of teas, should you be in need of a cup to break your journey. The chef has specially prepared assortments of Balinese pastries to accompany your afternoon tea.

Entrées include Tartare de Thon à ma Façon – tuna ‘tartar’ with orange and mushroom salsa – a goat cheese puff with zucchini, tomato confit and oregano (on the menu this is Tarte Fine au Fromage de Chèvre et Barigoule et sa Salade Verte); or try the Tartine au Caviar d’Aubergine et Crevettes rôties au Thym – roasted prawns

on eggplant puree on toast served with crème sauce.

Ma Joly also presents a Light Cuisine menu that includes Penne Boscaiola – Gorgonzola cream, wild mushrooms and truffle oil; Linguini au Crabe – Balinese crab, chili, garlic, arugula and aubergines; plus sandwiches and, more prosaicly, fish and chips.

If your visit is for dinner, the meat and poultry may suit: lamb rack served on spicy cracked wheat ragout, with lamb jus, mint jelly and coriander oil; Filet de Bœuf, grilled duck, a pork fillet and farm chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese, capsicum cream sauce.

The signature dish at Ma Joly is clearly the Ayung Bouillabaisse à la Kupu Kupu Barong, which comes with a glass of white wine, should you wish, and is a flavoursome dish for lovers of this spicy seafood

soup. Asian and Balinese cusine is also on offer, and includes favourites like Gado Gado and Babi Guling.

All in, your visit will no doubt be accompanied by a certain soporofic feeling – if the food doesn’t lull you into a sense of sublime relaxation then the surroundings will – but do not worry. You are, let’s not forget, in one of the valley’s most intimate resorts, so why not take a villa.

But perhaps best to make a reservation first…

Ma Joly Open daily from 7am – 10pm Lunch : 11am – 4pm Dinner : 6pm - 11pm (last order at 10.30pm) Afternoon tea : 3pm – 5pm Tel: +62 361 975 478, Fax: +62 361 975 079.

E-mail: mail@kupubarong.com.

Web: www.kupubarong.com

Art Market

Showtime For artists, a visit to Pranoto’s Gallery in Ubud is a must. For buyers, the gallery offers an extensive and unusual collection of art by Kerry and Pranoto, and many other artist friends. Interview by Jen Davis.

How long have you both lived in Bali?

K: I came as a tourist from Perth in 1992 and met Pranoto. It was a very quick romance and proposal – we were both ready to settle down – so I moved here in 1993.

P: I moved here In 1974 as a young artist, from a small town near Solo in Java.

Kerry, What did you do before?

K: I did a lot of theatre and music, tutored students, travelled through Europe, worked in an office in WA, and sang at night in a duo called Chalk and Cheese.

How did Pranoto help you become a visual artist?

K: He’s very methodical and helped me stay focused on one area at a time. He insisted I learn to draw and then paint. I drew for three years before he let me go on to paint in acrylics.

When I painted what he considered to be my first A+ painting, I was really chuffed. Then he said, “Now do 50 more.” I was flabbergasted. “What?” Now, 50 paintings seems like nothing.

Do you miss performing, Kerry?

K: I still need to have an outlet for the extrovert in me. I spent four years with the Group Gedebong Goyang (The Dancing Banana Trunks), four expatriate Ubud women, backed by a Balinese band. We had skits on bakso sellers, cell phones, quiz shows and the Indonesian Idol singing contest. I still get recognised for being a “Gedebong”. I also sing in the group called Hill Tribe.

What is a typical day for you both?

K: My ideal day is to draw in pastel somewhere shady in a rice paddy that is almost ready for harvest, with a friendly farmer or playful kids to chat to. Hopefully not too many snakes.

P: Hanging out in the back room of my gallery. Chatting, drinking tea and coffee, playing music and sometimes painting. (Smiles). We talk about our problems or exhibitions we have seen. I often counsel new artists in town about how to adjust to life in Bali.

Pranoto, why are you a mentor for younger artists?

P: My problems were their problems when I was young. An artist becomes knowledgeable through experiencing failure and conquering obstacles. I find that advising the younger artists also helps me to clarify things.

Kerry, have you ever had any problems at the Life Drawing classes?

K: Not big ones, and we have developed a set of rules to take care of them. Rule Number One – every one who comes to the model session has to draw. Rule Number Two – no photos allowed. Three – Don’t touch the model. If you want the model to adjust their pose, ask them nicely.

Prantoto, we hear you love to make bamboo flutes…

P: I like to play the flute, but I needed flutes in many keys to play different songs. I just asked myself a question: “Can I make a flute that can play any key?” I’ve made many different types

now; Japanese style Shakuhachi, clarinets with a bamboo reed, and traditional Balinese flutes.

K: He has more than a thousand flutes! Boxes full of them. It’s a mad obsession. He gives them away. An American tourist wanted to buy one. He said she couldn’t buy one but he would give her a flute for free. She insisted. He told her: “OK if you buy, it will cost you $1,000, or you can take it as a gift.” She took the gift.

Is bringing up mixed-race children difficult in Bali?

K: We only have this one experience. Multicultural kids need to be like chameleons, to adapt their behaviour to suit who they talk to. My kids manage that very well – they are also very at home when we visit Australia. We are both outsiders. We picked the local school because it’s important to be able to relate to your neighbours; the kids feel like they belong. They speak and write Balinese and Indonesian and pick up English from me. They both went to school at the top of our street – an easy stroll. Now they catch the bemo with their friends.

Pranoto, you were Kerry’s mentor. What has she taught you?

P: I had never taught anyone before. I didn’t know what to teach people. How do I describe about colour? How do I give clear guidance? If she had a problem, how could I help? Kerry taught me how to be a teacher. I was able to clarify how I worked. So now I understand the process of learning and teaching, and I have taken on many art students, both young Indonesians at art schools and adult foreign students. If I had not taught Kerry, I wouldn’t have known where to start.

What do you each enjoy most as artists?

K: I get a lot of satisfaction from my landscape painting. If I have not been out there for a while I start to crave it. The process is like a meditation. I have started to write about my experiences; meeting people and going to so many different places to draw. I include stories in my exhibitions about each piece. It becomes like a big story book with pictures.

P: Problem-solving is the interesting part. I like the learning process of trying a new medium.

I have even invented a few, such as pastel on sandpaper and painting on ceramic tile with coloured cement. I experiment, struggle and finally master the medium to my satisfaction. I make my own charcoal because I couldn’t find big pieces to cover a surface area in a short time. Now I am trying to make large oil paintings in black and white, working out technical difficulties.

When one plans an exhibition, does the other get in the way?

K: In the past I couldn’t get him to talk and plan, so it was the reverse of him getting in the way. I couldn’t get him “in” the way. Then I went to Australia when my father died and he had to put up two exhibitions in a row without me. He had a terrible time making decisions with no one to talk to. So he has been much better since then.

P: We play different roles. I do the practical things. Sort out and make the frames. Hang the pieces. Kerry designs the brochures, the marketing, the media.

Is it hard to let go of a painting?

K: I will always keep three paintings Pranoto did when I was pregnant, and one of our son Emil as a baby. One of mine of our daughter Tahlia I don’t want to part with either. Usually, I like the idea of my painting with someone who appreciates it. The painting will never leave me; the scene becomes part of me after 12 hours of working on a large landscape.

P: It is much better to sell a good painting than a bad painting. It is still mine, even if I never see it again. People say “I saw your painting at Jen’s place.” Donald Friend said a painting is not finished until it is sold. Like a chair is not a chair until someone sits on it. When someone enjoys it, I am content.

Kerry and Pranoto hold life drawing sessions at Pranoto’s Gallery in Ubud, Wednesdays and Saturdays, 10am to 1pm. Open to all artists..

Pranoto’s Art Gallery, Jalan Raya Ubud (near BCA Bank). Phone 970827. Website: www.age. jp/~pranoto

The Ubudian

Koman A Balinese community man and a respected international entrepreneur, Ubud’s Koman Sujeta first stepped boldly into his father’s footsteps, and then carved a new path for himself. Interview by Jen Davis.

Koman Suteja – a role model for the next generation of Balinese businessmen.

The Ubudian

You follow a great tradition by supporting young Indonesian artists. What did you learn from watching your father and the Neka Gallery?

I learned a lot. I learned the basic lessons of how to deal with artists and how to respect them. I also learned how to choose the right artist by looking at their work and their background. One of the artists I chose was broke before his first exhibition; I had to offer him some “vitamin money”.

He looked hungry, but he was to malu (embarrassed) to ask for an advance. I wish I had kept more of his paintings; they are now hot in the Asian art scene, and selling for more than US$300,000.

What did you gain from being your father’s son?

I was lucky; since I was born my father introduced me to art and famous artists. So when I began Komaneka Gallery I already had all of the access and the networks.

The access to all the artists, old and young, master and beginner. The access to art critics and also to the art collectors.

And did it ever restrict you at all?

Not at all. He gave me an advanced starting point. Instead of starting from zero, I could start from one or even higher. I had a lot of choices on the table. What I had to do was choose the right one. But I had less trial and error to go through.

You studied and worked in San Francisco and Hong Kong. How was that important to you?

It was a very important part of my life. Experience is everything. My father is known here, I am somebody here. In Bandung or internationally, I am no-one. I was fortunate to learn from a lot of smart people.

They taught me to ask the right questions, and not only gave me a tutorial on how to do business in real life locally and internationally, but also gave me a chance to run their business.

What is difficult about being a successful businessman and a Balinese man?

What is great about these two?

I don’t know whether I’m successful already...ha, ha, ha…because it depends on what parameters you use to consider yourself successful. Anyway, as a businessman,

you always have to be smart to deal with the local situation. Because I live in Ubud where the tradition is very strong, I have to find a way to do it harmoniously. I enjoy my business but also at the same time I enjoy my role in my traditional life, I like playing an active part in the banjar and the temple. I spend the same amount of time doing my business and dealing with the temple (I’m the third deputy of the Pura Dalem Puri in Peliatan, coordinating the financial matters of the temple). And living in Bali I also have the opportunity to contribute in a personal way – that I could not do in the US or Hong Kong – such as being on the board of my daughters’ school. That is very rewarding for me.

You go regularly to Jogjakarta and other Indonesian cities for business. Why is that important?

Other places outside Bali sometimes give a different environment for the artist in their creative life. In modern art, free expression is very important and places like Yogya give this. Yogya is a student city, where students express themselves freely, the people in the city are just accepting or maybe ignore their crazy ideas. So I find fresh new artists there, with fresh ideas.

The new Komaneka Resort is spectacular. What have been the biggest challenges in making it come alive?

When I saw the site for the first time, I was so afraid that constructing the buildings there would destroy the beauty. First my wife Mansri and I started to think about the zoning, where to put rooms, spa, pool and so on, while trying not to change the original site. I’m not an architect, but she is, and we started to play on the computer, to plug the building in on the site map.

It was fun. We both had a dream of what was the place going to be. I did the architecture and she did the interior. We had to source a lot of the material that we used in this resort, long before we had the land. We both like to buy unique materials, even though sometimes we don’t know when and where will we use them. Look at the beautiful structural poles in the main lobby of the next resort; they were rejected telephone poles from central

Java. We checked the stability of the soil and the health of the groundwater. The new land is on the wall of a valley leading down to the river. If the structure of the land is no good, I don’t want it. Specialists from the University helped. We put in a sewage treatment plant here and made sure everything was done to international standards. I spent a lot of time here on the site during the project. When we do any project, we always look at it from a “building a home” point of view, instead of “building a business”. So you will see the scale, I try to make it more grand, but still very intimate. I hope we succeeded.

What is your secret recipe for getting and keeping good workers?

I realise that people everywhere are equally smart, so I look for ways to give them opportunities. For example, we have a driver who began as a pembantu (homehelper). He had almost no education.

We offered him driving lessons, and then, if he wanted it, Japanese and English language lessons. Many local people have become drivers for our resorts in this way. I give them the right appreciation and make them feel as if they are part of the whole system. My wife and I always encourage the staff to give us suggestions on how to make the work better. Because at the end, they are the ones who do the execution.

When they think about how to do their work better, I find it is less effort to check and recheck their work. Then I can judge from the result. We try to be consistent to implement the system that we have already agreed.

How do you keep yourself fresh and growing?

I have a lot of hobbies. I like music. I like to spend time on my computer, from creating a database program to making an architectural drawing using AutoCAD. I am always curious about how other people do this and that. I love to challenge myself to do the same, or better.

Give us an example of a typical day.

I’m an early riser, because I sleep early. I sleep at 10pm and wake up at 5am. I work on my computer, emailing or Googling till seven, and then meet the children before

they go to school. My assistants will come to my house to clear up the business from the previous day and give some direction for the day. I am then free to follow my own programme, go to the temple if there is a ceremony or visit an artist; go to my hotel and gallery, go to my children’s school or another project. I am always online with my staff through my Blackberry.

Some people are frightened that the gentle, spiritual nature of Ubud is disappearing. What do you think?

Everything must progress or otherwise it will be dead. The key is how to make the progress positive. How to make sure the progress is enriching the previous stage.

Ubud may evolve into a different Ubud eventually, but as long as the cultural foundation is strong, I think it will not go too far. I’m optimistic because I met a lot of Ubud’s young generation who have the awareness to keep Ubud culture as it is; I mean philosophically not physically.

Some expats here are successful in business, some aren’t. What makes the difference?

First is the understanding of the political situation, Indonesian politics generally and local community politics. They need to understand how Indonesian government administration works. The expat who is successful is the one who can make an adaptation to the local system. The other key is understanding the capability of the local people, so you do not have false expectations. Not everyone can do business in Bali. If you come from a place where everything works properly and you have to have that, it won’t work for you. I consult on hotel projects in Japan; I have to adapt the way I think and operate when I go there, not insist on my own ways. It is the same everywhere.

Can you describe one absolutely joyous, rewarding experience you have had?

Personally, I’m happy that I always have an option to choose in every part of my life. For people around me, I’m happy to give them help. I promote some young unknown artists to become well appreciated and famous. That is very rewarding for me.

Uphill

Transit Fields Part two of Diana Darling’s stunning new novel…published here for the first time.

THE queen nursed the royal twins entirely by herself. They were voracious and quickly grew plump and smooth. Their parents giggled with fascination over the beauty of the babies.

“Did you ever see such perfect ears?”

“What elegant brows! And such skin – as white as ivory.”

“Look at Ratu Ayu’s hands. They’re like starfish. She’ll certainly be a dancer.”

“That’s Ratu Mas.” Except for the difference of their sex, the twins looked so much alike that even their mother was sometimes confused, so she had the high priest pierce her daughters ears as soon as the children’s first six-month ceremony was completed.

Little circles of fine gold wire shone on the baby’s earlobes.

Ratu Mas stared at his sister, shocked, and put his hands to his own ears. As the babies grew, the queen shrank. The palace physician prescribed honey, arak, and egg yolk; he prepared magical potions of roots, shells, and powdered horn; the king himself secretly consulted a Chinese healer and obtained medicines rolled into pellets of gold dust which he paid for with one of his own rings; but the queen’s condition declined steadily. The palace servants whispered among themselves that the twins were sucking the very life from their mother.

The king looked on, heart-struck, as his wife shriveled before his eyes. He begged her to allow wet-nurses to nourish the children.

“But why? Look how well they’re doing.”

Before the children were a year old, the queen’s hair was white and she could no longer walk without a stick to support her. Still she insisted on nursing the twins herself for the full term of eighteen months. The palace servants wondered among themselves whether the king would soon look for another wife, but the king’s love for the queen took on the character of worship.

Very early one morning, still in the depths of dark, the queen said to her husband, “Just now the air is exactly like it was on the night we were married.”

“I was thinking the same thing.”

“Remember your promise,” she said, and then she quietly died.

The next day – when by late afternoon the door to the royal bedchamber was not yet unbolted – the high priest gave permission for the doors to be opened with a battering ram. Inside, they found the king red-eyed and speechless with the stiffening corpse of the queen in his arms. He was restored to his senses with the ministering of holy water, and for the next week, he wept like a king: his face was still, his voice was even, and the tears slid down his face as ceaselessly

as water from a block of ice abandoned in the sun.

The twins Ratu Mas and Ratu Ayu were raised in the inner-most courtyard of the palace, which they shared with their father and less than a dozen personal attendants. It was a spacious place, open to the sky, with flowering trees and shady pavilions, and the children were so tenderly cared for and so content in each other’s company that for years they did not notice that they were never allowed to venture beyond their high walls.

They were curious, of course – for their life was rich with

the stories and plays and paintings that the king commanded for their amusement and instruction, and in this way they knew about such things as mountains and wild animals and the riotous underworld of the sea – but their curiosity was of an abstract sort. They wondered about the world beyond their courtyard in the same way that they wondered about death: they would like to be able to picture it, but had no immediate thoughts of going there.

Their nurse, a distant relative of the king, had a conventional imagination, and whenever the children asked about what lay beyond their courtyard, she answered in an absent-minded way, in the manner of her own parents, aunts, and nurses, that it was a bottomless pit of fire with serpents who fed on the entrails of small children like themselves.

“Where do they find the children?”

“How many times a day do they eat?”

“Are the children raw or already roasted by the time the serpents get to eat them?”

“Do serpents have salt?”

“What do they do with the children’s jewelry?”

“Ooh, if you keep asking stupid questions the serpents will climb into your bed at night and eat your tongues.” And then, also in the manner of conventional Balinese babysitting, she would try to distract their attention to something outside themselves. “Look, your parrot is hanging upside down, he wants you to tickle his feet. Do you hear? He’s calling you; what’s he saying? He’s saying, ‘Ratu Mas, Ratu Ayu, come over here and let me tell you a story about my country in the sky.’”

When the twins were old enough to do long sums in their heads, to perform complicated court dances and apply each other’s make-up, to sharpen their knives, read scripture, and impersonate their servants for the amusement of their royal father – that is, when they were about eight years old – Ratu Mas whispered into his sister’s hair one night that he was going to have a look over the courtyard walls. The moon was nearly full, and their nurse was fast asleep, as were all the sentries. (The night watchman’s duty is to sleep outside the door of his master, and the sleep of virtuous Balinese is as deep as the ocean.) Ratu Mas and Ratu Ayu sat up quietly and wound up their hair into neat buns at their napes. They crept over their warm nurse and slipped down to the floor.

Very slowly they slid the wooden bolt of the door from its stays, and opened the doors.

The hinges shrieked.

The twins froze.

The nurse snorted and rolled over on her side. The sentries at the doorstep snuggled closer to each other, with a soft clicking sound coming from their faces. The twins tiptoed out into the courtyard and felt the cold light of the moon on their skin. Near the southern wall was a frangipani tree, so old and gnarled and so often pruned that its branches were as tough as wood and only the youngest shoots at the tips were still flesh-like. The twins made for the frangipani tree in unison, like two flies stuck together.

Without a word between them, Ratu Ayu crouched and Ratu Mas climbed up on her shoulders. When Ratu Mas had secured a good position in the tree, he wrapped his legs around the trunk and helped his sister up. Ratu Mas was comforted to smell his sister’s breath up in this wavering world. For a second or two, they took bearings from each other’s limbs; then they scrambled up the tree. Just as they were able to peer over the top of the wall, the branches of the frangipani grew dangerously soft and fragile.

“Let’s go along the wall, and get on the roof,” said Ratu Ayu. “Go ahead.”

They crept along the wall like monkeys, using imaginary

Uphill

tails for balance. Within moments they were on top of their very own roof. As they perched there, facing south, they clung to the roof tiles with their fingers and toes. The dried moss on the tile crunched and tumbled softly down the roof as they settled down for a good look. And then they saw what lay beyond their walls. Beyond their courtyard were more courtyards: roofs and open spaces and trees flowering in the moonlight, like an unending proliferation of pretty paddocks of various sizes. Faraway to the south they saw a line of shimmering pinwheels – coconut palms clattering in the light of the moon.

Ratu Mas and Ratu Ayu conjured the face of their nurse and thought, “What a liar.”

Together they turned carefully about-face to the north.

Below to their right they saw the courtyard of the palace temple, populated with dark pagodas that seemed to watch them with a black gaze. They averted their faces. Instead they looked straight out to the glittering land that stretched beyond them as far as the sky.

Here there were no more courtyards but a great expanse of flooded rice fields like broad silvery stairs that ascended slowly and forever toward a jagged range of mountains on the horizon. The twins were very quiet, and after a while they could hear the sound of water running in the rice fields. They grew quieter still, eavesdropping on the gossip of the frogs and night bugs, and from time to time they squeezed each other’s hands to keep from snorting with laughter at the silly things being discussed. The night breeze dropped and turned, and suddenly a mountain of white light loomed in the northeast, changing everything so that everything the twins could see was organized around the mountain, and even the sky seemed to take its light from mountain’s height and stillness. The sea, curving away to the east, seemed to be lying down in worship.

The children perched on the roof, in their nightclothes and under the moonlight, and looked out at Bali. They grew very still, and after a while the landscape began to crawl and the sky flickered – black and sunny, ripped by rain and dust storms. The children were plunged into trance as the vision raced back through seasons, years, centuries, and finally settled them in a clearing in the midst of a towering forest.

The light slanted down through the trees in long shafts from the west. They found themselves standing side by side on a great flat rock under a canopy of painted cloth. Before them on the ground were spread many mats of offerings – confections of flowers, rice, shells, and the roasted meats of wild animals. In the midst of the offerings sat a priest ringing a small bronze bell. As the sun sank, the light moved forward over the offerings, crawled up the rock and lit the heavy gold bracelets around their ankles. It slid up their brocaded sarongs, warming their thighs and then their bellies and then their bare nipples, igniting their gold collars and then dazzling their eyes with an apricot-colored radiance until all was obliterated in splendor.

Ratu Mas and Ratu Ayu remained rapt in this vision, like

stone figures on the roof, until daybreak. Suddenly they were roused by an uproar coming from the courtyard. Their nurse, her hair still hanging undone, was shouting, “They’re gone!

The children are gone! I’m a dead woman!” People swarmed in and out of the courtyard gate. The Ratus Mas and Ayu enjoyed the excitement for a few moments – until they saw their father hurry into the courtyard clutching only a sarong about his bare torso, his own royal hair still wild around his shoulders.

“Here we are!” they chirped, standing up on the roof and waving their arms. “We’re up here!” The king looked up. His face opened in delight and in an instant shut down in fury.

“Don’t you move!” he roared. The old night watchman was already making his way along the wall like an ancient bug.

The twins were docile in their rescue and allowed themselves to be handed down from the roof, from retainer to retainer, like sacred statues, their faces blasé. Meanwhile their nurse was raving. She knew that the king could order her death as easily as he scratched his head. But the king had eyes only for the children being set before him. The nurse set upon them chattering like a frightened animal. The king brushed her away and looked at his children. As usual,

he experienced the dizziness that people often did when looking at the twins, a disagreeable sensation of seeing double. Vestiges of trance still clung to them, and to the king it looked as if they were imitating each other.

“That was very naughty of you both to frighten your nurse,” he said. “What were you looking for up on the roof before the sun was even up?”

The twins looked at each other and then at each other’s feet.

The king drew himself up.

“We wanted to look out, Father.” This was Ratu Mas. He said this timidly, but he forced himself to meet his father’s gaze.

“Ah. And what did you see?” Again the king felt a flash of vertigo. He thought: they’re like a pair of doves startled from a tree, who flutter into the air in a noisy mix-up and when they settle again you don’t know which is which. Ratu Ayu clasped

her hands together under her chin and spoke eagerly. “Oh Father, it was so bright! First we saw all the roofs and walls of the palace. Then we saw the paintings of the mountains all across the north sky – the real paintings! They were huge!” “ – and the sea, too,” said Ratu Mas. “And hundreds of little fishing boats –” “ – we could even smell the nets,” said Ratu Ayu. “Indeed!” said the king. “And could you see into the nets?

Were they full of fish?”

“Oh, yes,” said Ratu Ayu, hurrying now to help her brother.

“The nets were full of dancing fish in beautiful clothes and bracelets, and the fishermen caught them with their bells and gave them offerings on a big flat rock that was on fire – ” “What a busy night you’ve had,” said the king. “Now you must do two more things. First you must promise never to climb onto the roof again. Do you promise?”

The twins promised.

“Next you must wash your faces. You look like forest people.” The education of the twins also comprised the stories the king told them about the glorious history of the kingdom of Tarik Tamu. He told them about the majestic god their greatgreat-grandfather, a warrior so fierce that armies fainted at the very sight of him – a man who could fly, who could set his enemies on fire by merely pointing at them, who deflected arrows by merely laughing at them; a man so beloved of the goddess of the spring lake that she gave him a magical kris knife (called Sri K*witan) which only the virtuous may behold; a man so beloved of the god of the holy mountain that the king ascended to heaven directly from its summit in a burst of light, leaving nothing behind of his mortal remains except the flowers with which he had been praying.

“And overnight those flowers turned into a fine strong jasmine tree,” said the king. “If you climb to the summit of the mountain, you will find it there still, and it is always in bloom.”

He told them about his own grandfather, a giant of a man who had lived to a great age, who had cleared the land of forests up to the flanks of the holy mountain, and built dams and tunnels and irrigation channels, and transformed the landscape into a wonderland of terraced rice fields; who had created villages and populated them shrewdly with migrations of loyal subjects to work the fields; who had sired thirty-three princes, by wives of various rank from strategic points around the countryside, and divided the kingdom among his sons, instructing them in the art of governance so that all ruled together harmoniously under the king, and the people of Tarik Tamu prospered and grew beautiful and clever in all that they did. So it was today in his own reign, and so it would be in theirs.

“What’s ‘governance’?” said Ratu Mas. “It’s the way we run things, so that the people love and obey us.”

“Do they love Mas and me?” said Ratu Ayu. “When they know you, of course they will,” said the king, wondering why he felt as though he were lying.

Timeless Traditions

In The Company of God On a quiet Sunday afternoon in Ubud, 200 Balinese people learnt to firewalk. A record in Asia, perhaps in the world. But the fire’s not the point of the exercise, according to Pak Kadek Suambara from Taman Hati (Garden of the Heart) Yoga and Meditation Centre. By Jen Davis.

Why did you take 200 people firewalking?

It’s not about the firewalking. It’s about belief in oneself.

We spent the day at Arma with a complete programme of exercises to release fears and bring joy and belief back into these people’s lives. They asked themselves questions: “Where am I? Where do I want to be? What is holding me back? How do I learn to have faith in myself?” Many of these people were stressed and unhappy or had illness such as asthma, rheumatic aches, diabetes, coughs, stomach problems, migraine or insomnia. Before the workshop, they felt helpless to solve their problems. But 80 percent of diseases come from stress; it is their fears internalising instead of coming out. It is important to know how to balance the emotions, to know yourself. Self-realisation includes knowing how to cleanse the source of disease inside. How to find medicine inside to heal. Two hundred Balinese people chose to take charge of their life again. The firewalk was just the evidence that they had re-learnt to believe in themselves.

How young were you when you took the path of studying the spiritual? Why? I learnt about the spiritual from my grandfather, who is also a priest. I am the seventh generation of Bali priests in my family. I learned many stories about how to be a good man from the Ramayana and other great works. When I was seven years old, my grandfather asked me the day and date of my birth. He said if a Balinese person is born on that day, he or she will have a clear mind and like to help others who need help. Like to learn about the spiritual. My grandfather asked if that sounded right to me, and suggested that I should learn more. I learnt about the third Gayatri and the four brothers who care for us from our mother’s womb to our death, and to continue our journey to the next life. I realised that already at a young age I loved to learn those things. I also wanted to help children. I studied to become the Bendesa Adat (keeper of knowledge) in our village. I studied about Balinese traditions and other agama also. I learned a lot about meditation, did lots of practice. I wanted to be lebih sehat, tenang dan damai

(more healthy, calm and peaceful).

At 26 you were the youngest Balinese person ever chosen as a village leader. How much time and work does that involve?

I spend about half my time fulfilling my responsibilities as a village leader. That includes leading them in the ceremonies in three temples and teaching all the village members.

I advise our people when they have a problem, help find the source, work through the human thoughts and find a solution.

You have had a lot of business success. How does that fit with your role as a spiritual leader?

We must aim for material success too. These days, everything is exchanged via money and if I want to help other people, it is so much easier when I have enough money for my needs. And some extra. I encourage people to work hard, but not to take on the stress about it. Do what you can do today, learn from the past, don’t take on more than you can cope with. Don’t stress about what you can’t change and the future. I teach all these things.

In 2000 you had a thriving wood carving business.

Why did you decide to move into something so different – a Yoga and Meditation Centre – when the business was going so well?

I was working very hard in the family wood carving business. I had taken over from my mother; we were very successful. Customers were buying a lot of products. We had 135 wooden carvers working here from 1989 until 2000.

But two days every week I was stressed and had headaches.

We had too many orders, our capacity was not enough, but I just kept trying to fill the orders. Suddenly I realised it had to stop. My ex-girlfriend gave me massages and reminded me about meditation. I found happiness from meditation and I wanted to share it. I felt great. I showed some friends what had happened to me. They felt better, talked to others, started meditating. They felt calm. It expanded. We decided to make a Yoga and Meditation Centre.

Westerners are bringing different styles of meditation and yoga to Bali. Do they work for Balinese people?

Timeless Traditions

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Timeless Traditions

I had already learned traditional meditation from my Balinese teachers. But when I started learning other types of meditation I realised, “Oh, it is the same.” Many healing practices we have are similar to what happens in other countries. Or the intention is the same, but just the way we do it is different. For example, there is the practice of “catharsis” in some Western healing practices – they encourage you to get problems out of your body by shouting. For us, that is the day before Nyepi, we do it in a traditional way. We build and carry the ogoh ogoh, then shout and destroy them. This is a different style or way to get the negativity outside. So yes, Western practices work here and our Balinese ways can help the Westerners. Now at the Centre we are always developing ways to bring west and east together. We have meditation and yoga programmes for Balinese, and many programmes and packages for Westerners too.

Isn’t there a conflict between working at resorts like Four Seasons and Kupu Kupu Barong, and running social programmes for inmates at the Gianyar Prison?

No, there is no conflict. Everyone needs to be happy and that’s my job, to show people how to get rid of stress and be happy. When people come to stay in the exclusive resorts, they come to Bali because they are stressed and want to relax. We work at these resorts every week, making their holiday worthwhile and also showing them some of Bali’s special qualities. The people in the prison need us too. Since we began social programmes at Gianyar, the head of the prison says the prisoners are much happier. He says they come from many places and different religions, but they are cooperating more like a family now. We have programmes at the Centre both for expat residents and tourists. They can do a half-day retreat for releasing stress.

For the locals, we have three different programs – something every day – and they are free, with usually around 60 people joining us, 150 people on Saturday. Everyone needs connection. Everyone is looking for happiness.

You have studied with some very famous teachers, including Anthony Robins (author of Awaken the Giant Within) in Hawaii, and Dr Madan Kataria the Laughter Yoga Guru from India. Where have your greatest lessons come from?

I think my greatest lessons come from doing. I chose to work with meditation, and to help the orphans. So I built an orphan centre, Taman Permata Hati, where we now support 89 orphans. It started because I had a friend who was diabetic and he died leaving behind two sons. Kasihan. I was very sad to see that, but I did not have enough money to support their education, so told a French friend.

She decided to support them. So word spread when other children were orphaned; they knew I could help. I learned to get it right by doing. I became a facilitator. We built the centre two years ago; my family donating the land and the building. The children go to local schools but from 3-5pm every day we send teachers to the orphan centre to give

extra lessons in English, computing, dancing, drawing, yoga, meditation and art. The children are from six to 17 years old. We are very proud of the eldest who is doing a Diploma in Secretarial Studies in her last year of school.

Why do you think that “laughter meditation” and “weeping meditation” are important?

We have to laugh. Humans are meant to laugh and be happy. Sometimes everything around us is serious and people don’t feel like laughing. But it is important. Even before I studied with Dr Kataria we had Laughter Yoga sessions every day here, sometimes with 100 or more local people. I realised many years ago that the Balinese culture has traditional “laughter yoga” – we watch and laugh at puppets, we have dancing with funny voices. And topeng.

These are all traditional outlets for our laughter. I just incorporated it into a meditation session, when the centre opened. We called it Meditasi Tertawa – laughter meditation. Now we have added Dr Kataria’s exercises. It is also important to bring out the sadness, not hold it inside where it can do harm. Weeping Meditation is my name for some exercises that help people let go and cry. We begin with a special type of breathing that sounds like crying.

After some minutes, people cry. Sometimes this is the first time they have cried about it, or perhaps they are just remembering something from long ago. Both are important.

All our work is like a traditional Bali healing that we pack in modern clothes. We use the Om. We use balancing – of left and right of body, of emotions, of left and right of brain.

We do Healing Meditation – Usada Meditasi.

You talk about the importance of “balance”. Is it possible to achieve balance in living a modern life?

Yes it is simple, but you can’t be lazy about it. As everything, it takes practice. The important thing is to meditate regularly, then say to yourself: “Do only as much as I can.

This is my capacity.” Be realistic in what you can take on and balance will come. Joy will come.

Why do you work with other religious groups?

There is only one God. We all want happiness, so why not work together? Beside our traditional Bali praying, there are other ways of praying, so we got together with the Sai Baba, Hari Krishna and Brahma Kunaris groups at Arma.

More than 500 people praying together for Bali Peace.

How can people reduce the effect of stress in their busy lives?

Meditate. Laugh. Let go of their belief that they have to do everything. Live in this moment.

People in the villages say that you are saving marriages and lives. How are you doing that?

Many people are tired and sick from stress. They have heard from others that if you do meditation with Kadek you will be calm, happy, so they come here. One woman came because she was in great distress. Her husband was never home. They had been married for nine years and there were no children and much anger. She learnt to

meditate and let go, relax. She learnt that the only one she can change is herself. So she started to do this. After three weeks, she said she felt such change that her home was a different place. Her husband started staying home; now three months later she is pregnant and they have joy in their home. Other times it is the husband or another family member who comes first. They begin to change. The wife says, “You are happier, different, I want to come too.” In whatever you do in life you need calm. When you are calm you can think well and work well. Beside calm is happy.

What is your “speedy relaxation” programme? How can I join it?

It’s a bit like therapy. We can take you through exercises to make the emotions come more quickly and then you can get back on track. We start with discussion, find out what’s the problem. Once the emotions are balanced and calm, people can find answers and decide their own path. You must not worry about the future. Just do what you can.

Come here to learn, do some techniques to balance the emotions. Keep coming until you can do it by yourself.

What will stop someone from making successful change?

Laziness. Like every new thing, success requires practice.

Some people are too stuck in their old habits. That’s all though. Everyone can do this.

You say the next step is to take the Meditation Centre out into the communities. How will you make that happen?

People from all over Bali are coming to our sessions, from Denpasar, Klungkung, Gianyar, Batubulan, Tabanan. When they ask, first we give a preview. Then if they like, we can go there. They collect people into one place and I go there.

We will do this next month in Gianyar, Klungkung, Denpasar and Tabanan. Our steps are simple; once enough people learn them, they will not need us any more.

What is your motivation for doing all these different things? The prisons, the orphanage, the meditation centre, the outreach programme…?

The peace is free, we have to do this. God has no hands and legs, we are the hands of the God. I say to people: “Find your true self and you will have everything.”

What would be the best job in the world?

I have it! My job is the best job in the world. I work at the God Company. Is it a good job. A very good job with a good salary. The perks are, I have got what I want. Everyone must spread this positive virus, of a healthy, happy and prosperous life, so other people want to work in the God Company. I totally recommend this job and there are always vacancies because we are always expanding!

The Taman Hati – Bali Yoga and Meditation Centre Tel +62 361-974739/sms 081337 290 712 Email: tamanhati2000@yahoo.com

Ravine Retreat

Ravine Retreat

New and gorgeous, Komaneka Bisma rejuvenates and surprises.

I ONCE asked a resident here about how to buy land in Bali. “You need to put out to the universe,” came the reply. The vagaries of foreign land ownership laws notwithstanding, it took me a while to figure out what he was on about. Put out to the universe? Is this some kind of happyhippy trip? Surely it is just a matter of putting out the cash? But no. The fact is you need to be somebody to buy land in Bali.

Not just any old land, mind, and not just any old body. I’m talking here about the kind of land touched by an unseen hand that simply takes your breath away when you gaze upon it. The kind that makes your ego say: I want. And I’m talking about the kind of bodies that know better than to crave what your ego desires.

There’s enough of this land around, of course, and the valleys around Ubud stand silently in the morning mist almost in defiance of any kind of ownership. It’s a godly place up there. Some people who have bought those parcels of earth that shine on the edge of a ravine, say, or overlook the southern shores and the peaks of Mount Agung, maintain that it has a lot to do with luck. Or fate. Or even karma.

Bali has a way of kicking you in the pants if you don't behave yourself. Or bring to bear the correct approach to life. It has a way of getting its own back on you. Those who have lived here long enough will tell you this.

When the owner of the new Komaneka Bisma saw the piece of land on the bend in the Camphuan River, he knew it would be the kind of spot that would carry a luxury hotel with dignity. It’s all there.

The land butts a deep ravine; rice fields terrace magically like pools of mercury; the vegetation is a microcosm of rice, banana, bamboo and acacia. It’s a divine spot. But it wasn’t his.

“It was owned by a family of seven brothers,” he told me. “A pious family of teachers. The old man still went to the river

to collect firewood, and lived quite simply, considering he was actually so wealthy as a landowner. It took me a long time, talking with them, making sure they could trust me, promising not to destroy what was clearly a special place. In the end I swapped some land with them, a much larger plot. I’m still in touch with them, of course,” he says. Of course. How many New Yorkers, say, are still in touch with the hundreds of people who have owned their apartment before them? I would venture not one.

Komaneka Bisma does justice to the land; it’s a two-way street. It’s been built on a scale that fits with the plot. The lobby is a mix of Bali and Japan, built from ironwood and lit by splendid chandeliers. The light is fairy tale soft. From here, standing against the glass edge, you can overlook the whole site – and what a sight it is.

The swimming pool has been built like a slab of jade into the terraces, but it’s not overwhelming. A second pool lower down curves around it in more of a jungle scape.

Koi flit around in a natural spring, and there’s a luxurious calm that descends on the entire space. And all this just five minutes off Jalan Raya Ubud.

The property is an all-suite hotel with 40 plus pool villas currently under construction on the hotel’s flanks. There’s a wedding chapel that’s not finished but looks already like somewhere Someone would want to get married. And there’s a few new touches too – Apple TV for one. In addition, the staff does not feel like hotel staff, it’s as if they are working at a private residence. And in truth, they are. The owner has trained each of them at his home.

All in, Komaneka Bisma is a fabulous addition to Ubud property, and sits easily among the best of them. None of this could have been achieved through, simply, luck.

There’s clearly been something special at play.

Tel: +62 361 976090 www.komaneka.com

Interview

An Unsuitable Exchange We telephoned the writer Vikram Seth – of 'A Suitable Boy' fame – to have a chat and find out what’s in store for us during his visit to the Ubud Readers and Writers’ Festival.

Phone rings…

Hello?

Hello, Vikram? It’s Nigel Simmonds, calling from Bali.

Oh, hello there.

How are you?

Fine thanks. Sorry, you said Nigel Simmonds?

Yes. I’m calling from a magazine in Bali, The Yak. Oh God, yes, I forgot completely. I’m glad you called me. I just came down from Lichfield yesterday.

Right. So I’ll fire away then, if I may?

Pardon?

I said I’ll fire away with some questions then. If it sounds like I’m calling from the Third World, it's because I am!

Fine. Fire away.

Vikram, where are you right now?

I’m in Salisbury.

Your home?

Well, yes. Either here or Delhi.

Right.

Or a suitcase.

Right! What are you working on at the moment?

Nothing very much. I’ve been doing a few commissions, but at the moment there’s nothing that’s actually occupying my days and nights.

That sounds very good.

Well it does, but it used to cause me anxiety.

Did you always want to be a writer?

Not really. I was trained I guess to be an economist. I mean I liked writing poetry, but for years I did a different thing…

Do you think we are born to write, or it is a skill we acquire?

I don't know. I was quite young when I started writing poetry and I sort of stumbled into writing novels.

Who was the most influential person in your life when you were growing up?

My parents, my grandmother, the only grandparent I have ever known. She was my mother’s mother and in fact in a book I wrote, A Suitable Boy, she is the presiding matriarch.

The book is dedicated to her memory.

You mentioned your parents…do you agree with Larkin’s famous poem about your mum and dad?

That they f**k you up…?

Indeed.

I don't quite agree with it. Um, I think in my case I have been pretty lucky. Of course, you can’t live a life of your own until or unless you break away from the expectation of your parents. On the other hand, if you find your parents interesting and pretty good in their own rights, enjoy their company, then…I don't know. (Quoting Larkin) ''They fuck you up your mum and dad, they may not mean to but they do, they fill you with the faults they had, and add some extra, just for you.” Not sure about that. But what about you, Nigel, seeing as you’ve just stuck me with that. Do you agree with it?

I do, but it’s more about Larkin really than anything else, I think. It’s about middle class expectations, as you say. That’s what rings true for me. I mean, you either have parents like that or you don't, simply…

Are you Australian?

No, I’m English.

English? And you’re living in Bali?

Yes. I have lived in Asia for a lot of my life.

I am trying to work out the vowels…

Well, the telephone’s hopeless and I think the quality of the line doesn't help. I also think my vowels have probably been mixed up, you know…

Ya, they’ve been modernized. The kind of English that’s spoken there is Australian, is it?

If you’re Australian it is, yes! But the main language that’s spoken is Indonesian, and you know, Balinese.

Anyway, here’s one for you: what’s the best line of poetry that you’ve ever read?

How about, “Never, never, never, never, never.” That’s from King Lear. And it says she will return no more. Lear is weeping over Cordelia.

I preferred 'Nothing comes of nothing', but anyway.

You wrote the longest novel ever published in English, what’s you opinion of haiku as a writing form?

It’s something I aspire to. The fact is A Suitable Boy isn't really a long novel, there have been longer novels, it’s just the longest novel that’s been published in a single volume.

It’s one of those created records, not a real record. I mean, I write very short poetry as well. In fact, I see myself really as a poet who stumbled into novels, as I said.

Just in terms of the time spent on writing a novel and writing poetry, have you ever spent 10 years on a poem?

No I haven’t. But the fact is it’s rather like that remark by Whistler when he was condemned for asking for a few daubs of paint. He says that it’s not for the fact that I’ve spent half an hour on this, but for the knowledge of a lifetime.

Do you think one needs to be published in order to be considered a writer?

No, there are a number of poems that I have written which I haven’t published…probably enough for another volume.

But life is so busy that one wonders whether it’s about the writing of the thing, or the publishing of the thing…

Let’s talk about money. You command enormous advances, and that’s something for which you’ve been criticized. What do you think or say when people are surprised by the size of your advances?

I gave up what many would say was a steady job as an economist in order to follow my passion. That doesn't mean that because I like to do something I should get paid for it, but I’m only writing a book every five or six years, and writers are only getting 10 percent, remember, whereas the publishers and book sellers get 90 percent.

Why should we read a Vikram Seth novel?

No reason at all. Except if your friends bully you into it. I am surprised anyone has the time! I mean, I don’t have enough time to watch the news on television. Maybe one could be attracted to the story, the character line…I don't know. It’s very difficult for a writer to analyse what makes a book tick, and probably not healthy to do so.

Now then, the Ubud Writers' Festival...you’re coming over for that, of course…

Yes, of course, I look forward to it.

What are we going to learn from you?

I shall find out myself.

Have you been to Bali before?

No, I’ve never been to Indonesia. So I want to go to Jakarta and see Borobudur and so on before I get to Bali.

Have a fantastic journey and we’ll see you in October!

Well, thank you Nigel. Goodbye.

The Ubud Readers & Writers Festival will be held between October 14-19. www.ubudwritersfestival.com

Ubud Views

Issue Seventeen Sept/Oct/November 2008

one really can't beat Ubud for content. The place oozes it. It's not just the cultural attractions, or the breezy mountain style of the restaurants and bars. It's the people, whether they hail from the place or have chosen to make it their home. This issue we showcase some of Ubud's exceptional individuals. First there's Koman Suteja, he of Komaneka fame; later we publish the second extract from Diana Darling's newest novel. We interview artists Kerry and Pranato on the subject of life drawing (and indeed, life), and we ask guru Pak Kadek Suambara just how he managed to take 200 people firewalking. Then we take a look at Ubud's newest luxury hotel and sample the cuisine at Ma Joly. All in it was a pleasure to put together, and a pleasure to meet so many contented people. Ubudians, we salute you!

Photo: Green School

THE BUD INTERVIEW RAVINE REATREAT TIMELESS TRADITIONS UPHILL THE UBUDIAN ART MARKET MOOD FOOD BUD MAP

Ubud Views Vikram Seth Komaneka Bisma Kadek Suambara Transit Fields Koman Suteja Kerry and Pranoto Sunshine State Get Lost. Not.

180 179 177 176 172 167 165 163 161

Cultural Dance Calendar When 1st & 15th of every month

What Gambuh dance (The Ancient Drama of Bali)

Where Pura Desa Batuan

Every Full & New Moon

Kecak Dance

Arma Open Stage, Peliatan

Mondays

Legong Dance Kecak (Fire) Dance Ciwa Ratri Dance Barong & Keris Dance

Ubud Palace Tunjungan Village Pura Dalem Puri Jaba Pura, Desa Kutuh

Tuesdays

Ramayana Ballet Legong Dance by women Spirit of Bali Kecak & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow puppets) Legong Dance Legong

Ubud Palace Puri Saraswati Jaba Pura, Desa Kutuh Jaba Pura, Padang Kertha Kerta Accommodation Puri Kaleran Peliatan The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah

Wednesdays

Legong & Barong Dance Wayang Kulit Kecak & Trance Dance

Ubud Palace Oka Kartini Padang Tegal

Thurdays

Gabor Dance Legong Dance (Children’s gamelan) Barong Dance Kecak Dance Calonarang Dance

Ubud Palace Puri Saraswati Puri Saraswati Puri Agung Peliatan Mawang Village

Fridays

Legong Dance Barong Dance Kecak & Trance Dance Legong

Ubud Palace Peliatan Village Pura Dalem Ubud The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah

Saturdays

Legong Dance Legong Dance Calonarang Dance Legong Dance Wayang Kulit

Ubud Palace Puri Saraswati Mawang Village Pura Dalem Puri Ubud Kerta Accommodation

Sundays

Ubud Palace Legong of Mahabaratha Padang Tegal Kecak & Trance Dance Oka Kartini Wayang Kulit ARMA Legong Dance Female Gamelan and Children’s Dance Peliatan Village

A unique opportunity to witness the spectacular revival of Gambuh – the ancient dance drama of Bali. Performances every 1st and 15th of the month at 7.00 p.m., at Pura Desa Batuan, (11km from Ubud). Entrance fee Rp50.000. Free transport from Ubud Tourist Office at 6.30 p.m.

For reservations telephone 974 528/295 846.

Vol. 17 SEPT/OCT/NOV 08

IDR Rp 48.000 S$9 HK$45 €3.50