Issue Nineteen
June/July/August 2008
Cover photo courtesy of Pura Vida (www.puravidafashion.com). Photographer: Fabrizio Martinez. Model: Faustine. Hair & Make-up: Roberto Turriciano. Graphic Concept: I-LAB. Location: Rome.
THE YAK / THE BUD Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Michelle Lamb Consulting Editor: Nigel Simmonds, CV Icomm nigel@icommbali.com Publisher’s PA: Katarina Taslim Project Manager: Accounts Manager: Evi Sri Rejeki Yani Mulyani Graphic Designer: Irawan Zuhri Distribution: Made Marjana, Kadek Arthana, Putu Widi Susanto, Made Sutajaya Publisher: PT Saka Wahana Cipta Licence: 1.265/09-04/PB/V/99 Advertising enquiries: Tel/Fax: (62-361) 737 413, 743 1804, 743 1805 www.theyakmag.com Email: info@theyakmag.com theyak@indosat.net.id Jl. Kayu Jati 9Y (Loloan Restaurant) Petitenget 80361 Bali, Indonesia © PT Saka Wahana Cipta No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the publisher. Opinions expressed within this publication are those of the authors not the publisher. The Yak and The Bud will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors. minYAK, The Yak’s monthly e-newsletter, is distributed every fourth Friday. Inquiries: info@theyakmag.com
contents
24 26 32 38 40 42 48 54 60
86 90 96
IDOL BANTER All Hail The Riffage CULTURE VULTURES Smiling With Surreal NEW IN THE HOOD Around Town
98 100 104
THIS MUCH I KNOW Made Wijaya INTERWHO Stanley Allison QUESTIONS, QUESTIONS Jamie James FEATURE A Vintage Road To Bali OLD GUARD Poncke Princen FEATURE Nitrogen Narcosis
66 70 72 78 84
106 114 116 124 126
ARTSAKE Veronique DWELLING ON A DWELLING Peat’s Place VENTING IN A VILLA Cicada
YAK FASHION Summertime Siblings MEMBERS OF THE CLOTH Sabbatha FASHION FREESTYLE Local Fashion ACCESSORIES Jemme FREE RADICALS Theta Spa Cool
BALI’S BIG SIX Continental Cuisine FORK IN THE ROAD Up The Junction ORAL PLEASURES Private Dining Rooms ORAL PLEASURES Chaine Gang CONSTANT WINING Sangria Sun
SUPERVILLAS Five grand and up CHEAP THRILLS Small and perfectly formed DUOVIEW All Weather Friends
128 134 136 138 140 145 146
OVER THE EDGE Bangkok or Bust COMMUNITY Teak Farming BEING GREEN Greenwashing SOUNDS AROUND Cafe del Jose RAVERS REVIEW Musical Muscle YAK MAP Don’t Get Lost AD INDEX Who’s Who
Theta Spa
Idol Banter
Yak Back... Yakety Yak… SO it’s all go – life in Bali that is. It seems we are on the up and up and times, as the man sang, they are a changin’. The island is rife with head-hunters; but that’s okay as the hunted heads have only changed logos, business cards – hopefully salaries – not islands. We also have an upsurge in returnees, who are thankfully back to stay this time, and yes Glow at Como Shambhala is the place to have brunch and SOS at the Anantara does so much more than Morse code…welcome back John and Ivan – we’ll miss you no more! We have all obviously been upskilling in between our Yogalates and Aqua gym and are about to welcome the next onslaught of what I like to call riffage (as in riff raff ) – business class backpackers…the only way to travel…(I believe the real meaning of riffage has something to do with guitars…) Welcome indeed to this, the latest issue of The Yak, in which we will try to assist you in choosing how to spend your holiday – be that in dollars, euros or renminbi, all are welcome – so let’s get on with the show and lead you straight into what’s New in The Hood with a Surreal look into Culture Vultures. Meet the island’s very own Dame Jiwa-Ya and the aerodynamic Stanley Allison. We snakecharm our way past Jamie James and take a Vintage look at transport, while reading of the rhyme and reason of how some Bali dignitaries arrived at these shores. We hit a futuristic cocktail button with Atomic Power before privately dining our way to Peat’s Place, stopping off at The Yak Awards en route to our Supervilla. Cheap thrills, a Duoview and Artsake then lead us into a touch of Sibling Summer fashion rivalry. Next up? The City of Angels, as it drops us off at our Branch Office where we discuss Greenwashing before having a cozy tête-à-tête with Spain’s very own Jose Padilla in Solar Power…so here’s cheers to us, the residential raffage – we look forward to seeing you throughout the party season and at this year’s Yak Awards. Ah yes, The Yak Awards – where, I hear you cry? Where else but at our beloved watering hole – Ku De Ta. May The Yak be with you…
We will get The Yak into the lap of....
Delta Goodrem...
Credit Crunch Dear Yak, Thanks for sending the mag – it looks great and people here love it too... but pray tell us, why photo credits are sooo small? Does the Art Director hate photographers, or think they are lowlife compared to the writers, who get such large bylines? I haven’t seen pic credits this small anywhere else in the world…and its very upsetting for a photographer! Regards, Robert Rosen, Snaparazzi, Australia But Robert, we assumed your pictures told a thousand words, so… Iconic Dear Yak, A big thank you for giving us such terrific editorial in this edition (Mar/Apr/May). We are proud to be called a New Icon of Bali! Best regards, Sarah, Surfer Girl. You’re welcome (is the cheque in the post?)
and big business – they would never agree, and in many ways they are the problem to our current woes as a planet. This would have to be a grass roots movement, started on the internet! Regards, Joe Clifford, Singapore. Dear Yak, Loved your fashion last issue – intrigued as to how you shot it? Cheers, Divakaran Nair, Bali. With a lot of people, some great equipment and some awesome post production! School Fees Dear Yak, Thanks for the schools article – it makes a tough decision a lot easier in Bali to see the different schools compared like that. But why is it all so expensive? Oh dear, and I’ve got three children! Regards, Concerned, Sanur. Oh, but they’re worth it! We think…
...when she comes to wow us with her innocent eyes at the I’m An Angel Chartiy Event at Ku De Ta on the 26th of July.
Quiet Please! Dear Yak, I enjoyed your New Icons of Bali feature in the March issue, and was pleasantly surprised to see, among the Paul Ropp’s and Ku De Ta’s, that you selected Nyepi. I wonder why don’t we, as you say, push to have this excellent practice of one day’s silence adopted by other countries around the world? Surely, if one starts, others will follow. Forget governments
In The Mix Dear Yak, Love the edit and ads mix, guys. Loads of great info on Bali which keeps me coming back! Nice to see a magazine that doesn’t follow the formula. Regards, Michelle Graham, Hong Kong. And that’s all we want. Thanks for reading.
Culture Vultures
PHOTOGRAPHER Surreal has been coming to Bali since 1994, and now is a resident and part of the team UMUM Productions. He says: ‘‘Bali, as the expression goes, has many different faces: fascinating culture, beautiful vistas, harmony as religious dogma, etc. But after all the years living here, I’ve come to realise that in the end, it is the people who have become my friends, family and even the strangers who keep alive the passion felt for this place in the world. Our hopes, fears and love of a good joke harmonised.’’ SURREAL datang ke Bali pada tahun 1994 dan sekarang menjadi penduduk serta bagian dari team UMUM productions. Dia bilang: ‘‘Bali sebagai suatu ekspresi yang sedang berjalan, memiliki beragam wajah, kebudayaan yang menarik, pemandangan yang indah, harmonis dalam ketaatan beragama, dsb. Tetapi setelah bertahun2 hidup disini, saya menyadari bahwa pada akhirnya dari orang-orang yang kemudian menjadi teman, keluarga bahkan orang yang tidak dikenal secara dekat yang selalu hidupkan hasrat menyala akan tempat ini. Harapan, ketakutan dan senda gurau kami berpadu dengan harmonis.
Culture Vultures
Culture Vultures
Culture Vultures
New In The Hood
Sipping School FINALLY, a wine bar has come to The Yak. Sip is not your conventional wine bar but one of elite and educational proportions. Now drinking wine has been given a tutorial-bent, allowing those of us who follow Bacchus’s discovery to further our experience, adding knowledge to our nasal cavities, taste buds and brain cells, while not having to dig too deep into our pockets, if we so choose. Wines are by the bottle, glass and taste. Running from a hefty Rp32million for a bottle of ’93 Petrus to a very affordable ‘taste’ of Alsacian Chardonnay N.V. Bin 22, Windham at Rp15,000 – with about 100 wines in between – Sip also salutes us with fine French cuisine. Executive chef, Patrick Chauchereau, having honed his craft to Michelin-star standard, brings us a fantastic yet inexpensive menu. The romantic sounding Hérisson de Crevettes and the Smoked Salmon á la Royale (complete with Blinis, shallots, crème fraiche, capers and a shot of ice cold Vodka) are among the Curtain Raisers. The Main Act follows with Jarret de Porc (a steamed and roasted pork shank that we would travel miles for), and the Steak Tartare (by which to judge any self-respecting French venue). There’s also Shepherd’s Pie, home made pasta and fabulous steaks. We are in love already – how could you not love a place with no less than 17 Champagnes on its wine list? Yak Map ref.: H13 Tel. 730810 Matters of State EIGHTEEN luxury suites join The Laguna Resort and Spa’s opulent overnight options as part of a US$7.5 million dollar refurbishment. The two-bedroom Imperial Suite offers almost 500 square metres of regal living space. This secluded two-storey residence with stateroom, private study, private balconies and private spacious pool deck, also hosts a dining room for 10 with full kitchen facilities. The décor is high end with 42” plasma TV’s, Bose sound systems, Kinetic lighting and Wifi internet access. And of course there are the 24 hour butlers…what more could you want? www.luxurycollection.com/bali Tel.: 771327 Oops DEADLINE pressures forced us into a rare and uncharacteristic cock-up on our fashion credits last issue, which resulted in jewelry designer Samantha Black not getting a big enough thank you for her wonderful designs. The credits should have been: Cover: Earings and pendant/brooch by Samantha Black; Page 82: Ring from Samantha, not Moja. Page 81: Ring from Samantha’s collection. Only the armband was designed by Maru. Page 83: Earings, pendant/brooch and cuff by Samantha; Page 84: Earings and ring by Samantha; Page 86: Dragon pendant brooch; Page 87, Armband, anklets, cuff, all by Samantha. Samantha Black’s website, also omitted, is www. solamenteUno.com. Oh look, there’s an ad for her below!
More Than Just a Pretty Space The latest in the collection of award-winning YTL Hotels, Spa Village Resort Tembok, Bali, is a 5-star luxury spa resort set by a northern stretch of black volcanic sand looking out into the unbroken horizon of the Bali Sea. The next step in the evolution of the Spa Village brand, Spa Village Resort Tembok, Bali, ventures beyond the exquisite spa treatments delivered by expert spa therapists and includes classes on Balinese massage techniques by the local 75-year-old Balinese healer from the nearby village of Tembok. www.spavillage.com/tembokbali
Eventful Elite ELITE Events, a member of the Elite Havens Group of companies, continues to go from strength to strength, delivering a number of events already this year that have tweaked people’s imaginations and spurred dinner table conversations around the region. With experienced new staff and a talented creative team, all under the direction of Libby Doherty, there is no end to the possibilities they will harness for your next event. Designing a bespoke wedding with formal sit down dinners for 100 people, building a spaceship from a golf buggy for an aerospace engineering event, creating a jungle complete with gorillas and monkeys, or coordinating a pie-throwing competition – it’s all in a days work for the team at Elite. With access to exceptional venues through Elite Havens, and a proven history dealing with Bali’s best event suppliers, Elite Events is prepared for any event, big or small. Contact the team at www.EliteEventsBali.com or 738 911.
New In The Hood
Happy Scan BIASA Art Gallery, on Seminyak High Street, parades Angki Purbandono who, from June 13th to July 7th, completes his first solo exhibition. His scan-based collages of 3D art seem to challenge any myths about photography and seemingly take an irreverent but fond look at art and the academy. Yak Map ref.: I12 www.biasaart.com
Trashpickers XSProject Foundation use design and education to protect the environment and reduce poverty. This non-profit organisation is helping to care for some of Indonesia’s poorest by buying plastic consumer waste at higher than normal prices. Health, livelihood and education is the aim and collecting trash is the game. Visit www.xsprojectgroup.com and donate or drop into Dijon on Simpang Siur and buy a funky stitched recycled bag (above), be it for the beer or the beach…make an environmental declaration with a social statement. Dijon, Simpang Siur Roundabout Tel: 759636
Annora Amora DESIGNED by the up and coming Surabaya architect Leo Sumiko, from Imago Studio Design, Annora Villas Bali is all about textures. Verdant bamboo walkways and calming water features lead the way to the 13 villas, with or without pool and all with kitchenette and fabulous glass-roofed double bathtubs. The interiors of blacks, greys and creams come in textures of sandstone, lava, pebbles and wood. Wifi’d throughout, Sumiko has cleverly mixed clean-lined contemporary with Indonesian traditional features and the occasional artefact. Ideally located and only a short walk from Gado Gado beach and numerous restaurant and nightspots, villas start at $195++ per night. Yak Map ref.: F12 www.annorabali.com
Asian Estates ASIAN Estates & Investments opens its doors in Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak, with the imminent launches of exclusive properties including Botanical Jungle in Sanur, The Grand Seminyak Oberoi, Chakrawata and Balangan at the Bukit and Ancol Marina in Jakarta. “AEI is so much more than just being different from your average property and investment company,” says AEI Chairman Chris Forbes. “Our sales and marketing team is the most proactive in the marketplace today, sourcing the very best deals on behalf of our clients.” Almost every property on AEI’s portfolio is exclusive to the company, allowing only investment opportunities that the company knows will offer the greatest returns for its clients, be it a lifestyle or investment purchase. GO online at the address below to find out more. Tel: 732578 www.asian-estates.com
Herd Mentality NOT only are the largest herd of rescued Sumatran elephants in the world found at the Elephant Safari Park in Taro, but these gentle jungle giants are now taking visitors into the still of the misty forest of Taro at nightfall in what is Bali’s first twilight trek. Safari Under the Stars is yet another first for adventure tour pioneers, Bali Adventure Tours, who specially designed the night trail to offer a different course than the Elephant Safari Parks’ day-time rides and to make for a complete new enchanted elephant experience. After a magical night ride, guests enjoy a pre-dinner Elephant Talent Show at the Discovery Show Arena with dazzling special effects and light show before being seated to a three-course dinner in the newly designed Pachyderm Palm Grove by the elephants bathing lake. The Elephant Safari Park has recently opened its’ own 27-room Elephant Safari Park Lodge (whose Safari Wellness Spa just got voted 2008 HOT SPA in Conde Nast Traveler) so you can camp the night in luxurious digs as well as be pampered amongst the pachyderms. Herd ‘em up and head up to the night riding hills. Tel.: 721 480 www.elephantsafariparklodge.com
Louise Lycra SOME beautiful, bijoued bikins are making their way around pools in Bali. Imagine double lycra, plunging neckline-d, hand adorned two piece swimsuits that give you a cleavage to knock a drink over…and if you need to run for cover you can even throw one of the shaped, chiffon kaftans, delicately see-through pants or floaty tops over your head to make it to the lunchtable…Louise is just next to Mannekepis on Jl. Raya Seminyak, near Made’s Warung. Yak Map ref.: I10
in the
New In The Hood
Oriental Rugs and carpets FARAH’S Oriental Rugs and Carpets takes delivery of 500 exotic rugs to add to its collection, available at Ruko Segita Emas Simpang Siur (opposite Grahadi Hotel). “Despite the rapid advances of depersonalising technology,” says owner Hussain, carpet connessiuer, “one needs to surround oneself with genuine oriental rugs – they create an aura of peace and tranquility.” Farah’s Carpets offers Bali’s largest collection of handmade rugs, carpets and kilims from iran, Turkey, Pakistan, Kashmir and Afghanistan. Tel: 766901
hood Peerless Poretti PIER Poretti returns to Bali bringing with him his individual style for hand-tinted black and white prints through his fine art gallery, Klick. Pier, who spent time at the Warhol factory in New York, originally came to Bali on a photographic assignment with an Italian rock band. A year later he made the island his home. Pier returns to Bali from a stint in Cambodia, including the archeological site at Angkor.
Put The Boot In SO you just bought a bikini – don’t forget to get the body to go with it. Join Bali Boot Camp…do it - NOW! I said NOW, chubby! Are you dumb as well as fat?! (Etc etc until subject breaks down in tears.) www.bali-bootcamp.comv
Ziva Zest THE latest sleek Seminyak villa project to grace our shores is Ziva, an ultra modern love nest that brings the sunshine in with glass walls that buttress a large pool in a private compound. Lines are minimal and daylight is key; there’s a breakfast pavilion and all mod cons, as well as professional management. There are eight boutique villas available on a renewable 25-year lease with a guaranteed rental return for the first two years. Marketed by Exotiq Real Estate. www.exotiqrealestate.com Tel: 737358 Let’s hear it for the girls…boys…and the under 10’s! MORE Flinstones than the 2005 American crime comedy of the same name, Kiss Kiss Bang Bang’s fresh interior serves up cool summer fashion whether you are one, 10 or over twentyten and something – be you boy or girl! Frocks in silk cottons, Lycra cottons and cotton voiles come in South African prints and understated florals. A collection of swimwear, shoes, belts and bags satiate the ladies, who can then go on to buy seriously sexy men’s swimwear, the latest in men’s shirts and pants for that man of the ‘mo’. Then if kids are a focus of her attention, the choice is almost mind drooling from newborn all the way up to the tweenies… Jl Lasmana 12, next to The Corner Store. Yak Map ref.: G8 Tel.: 8091339
Dance Icon PUTU Rudana puts dance to the fore with his latest promotion of the arts. Entitled Jegog, the exhibition and art activity at Museum Rudana near Ubud features the work of Ida Bagus Indra. “Joged is a form of community dance performance involving all people,” says Rudana, who believes the exhibition unites the various universal aspects of Balinese community and represents an icon for the Indonesian tourism industry. Bud Map ref: M17
MUSEUM RUDANA
Joged
1
This Much I Know
Made Wijaya ...swam ashore to Benoa, Bali, in 1973 as Michael White, a runaway architecture student and part-time hippy. In no time he adopted a Balinese family and a new name and embraced life as a New Balinese. He has had many careers since then – tennis coach, guide, photo-journalist, English teacher at the Dance Academy, landscape designer, publisher – and now runs a design firm specialising in dream homes across the equator. In Bali he is most famous for documenting Balinese life and times in his column “Stranger in Paradise – the Diary of an Expatriate” (since 1979) and for his witty and informative books on architecture and landscape design. This is what he knows... “Just as I was getting used to being a temperamental redhead my hair turned sandy…but Bali allows me to revel in the theatrical possibilities of being an eccentric Type A personality with a bear-like delivery. Adopting the Balinese feudal approach to business management has helped. There is a destructive edge to the creativity bubble…I have learned through trial and error – having never gone through the Dale Carnegie School – that one has to forgive the lesser evils in order to get paid. As an artist at heart I have forced myself to let things simmer and not boil when faced with rejection.
One loses so many friends on the way up (from beach bum to small town celebrity). I used to do all the digging and shaping of plants myself – hundreds of gardens a year – and was called the ‘gay blade’. Now I am too hot to handle and I’m the ‘celebrity landscaper’. (‘I’m still big...it’s the gardens that got small.’) Every day I marvel at the Balinese’ ability to be gracious and not carry a big stick; I marvel at this while hoeing through life like the grim reaper (ha!). I am grateful, however, for my small “p” protestant upbringing in the scout halls and Sunday schools of Bondi, Australia: Lord Baden Powel and
our Lord Jesus taught me about good Samaritan behaviour and about looking in the rear vision mirror on the motorbike of life to avoid loss of limb. Every now and then, on my regular workrelated traverses across the island, a crack opens in the urban sprawl and I see a bit of the old Bali I love so much. And every once in a blue moon a small window opens in the corroboree of Balinese ceremonial activity (their real and only life) and a tourist will pop up, to be treasured and indicted into the Gallery of the Gorgeous. Watching the old Bali (the physical old Bali) disappear over the past three plus decades has been painful for me. Experience has taught me that hotels are not the real world and that hoteliers are not real people (with many wondrous exceptions). It’s sad that the world’s most amazing culture should have to attach itself to the mass tourism bandwagon in order to survive. Experience has also taught me that in matters of fashion we humans have a herding instinct – it’s style that’s unique. Original style and flair is rare. From the Balinese more than anyone I have learned that ‘beauty has
its own rules’. Worshipping at the altar of legless humour as I do I strive to amuse the Balinese on a daily basis and the world at large through my various jottings. Sharing philosophies and opinions is one of life’s great joys. The world of letters is so much more rewarding than the construction industry...but Lo, behold the verdant acres I have made. Life holds no greater misery than seeing a book one has written in the remand bin. Grief is over-rated, like ocean views. Standing at the head of corpses and watching Balinese Brahmins do there stuff is the antidote to a Hollywood-fueled upbringing. ‘Don’t give me grief’ is my favorite expression. ‘Guilt tripping’ should be an Olympic sport. A dirty mind is a joy forever; a clean desk is the sign of a sick mind. Painting slogans on truck mud flaps is next to godliness. The female side of everything is where the sakti lies – the magic, the sparkle, the taksu, the resonance. Why have so many of my male friends turned turkey? What is it about the male ego, balls and selfishness? One needs to strive to be selfless, that’s all.
Interwho
Stanley Allison set up Aerowisata in 1970 and ran some of the very first hotels in Bali. The Yak caught up with him at his home overlooking Mt. Agung. What’s your name? Stanley Joseph Allison. How young are you? I feel young at 77. Where are you from? I am originally from the UK. I was born in Merut, India, on the 27th of February, 1931. My father was Colonel of the Black Watch and my parents were resident there. We left in 1933 and I went on to prep. school at the Dover School for Boys. I was evacuated to Ynyaddu in Wales when the war broke out. My father was a prisoner of war in Germany, and my mother worked as personnel manager at Glascoed Munitions Factory near Newport. When did you first arrive in Indonesia? I arrived in December of 1969 to operate a group of hotels in Medan, the Pardede International Hotels, later taken over by Garuda and KLM. Garuda and KLM asked me to start
up a hotel management and development operation, and to develop hotels in Indonesia. This company was called PT. Aerowisata, formed in 1970. I went on to develop and manage many hotels, including the Sanur Beach Hotel, Nusa Dua Beach Hotel, Senggigi Beach Hotel in Lombok and the Grand Hotel Preanger, Bandung. We also operated airport catering in Bali, Surabaya, Jakarta and Medan, as well as Satriavi Tours and Travel Indonesia, and Garuda Oriental Holiday worldwide. What has changed the most about Indonesia and Bali since you first arrived here? Well, the infrastructure of the island has greatly improved. With my position in Aerowisata I had a company car, thank goodness. To get to Ubud without a car was difficult. In 1970 there were only four hotels in Kuta. Legian did not exist.
What’s a typical day for you? I am retired so I relax and enjoy my life in Bali. I have a good social life and many friends, but a typical day for me might be: wake up about six, have a cup of tea in bed, watch all the bad news on TV, look out of my window and see Gunung Agung, then breakfast and a look around the garden. I usually go to Ubud, perhaps the post office, or walk for an hour, then it’s home for a light lunch followed by a swim in my heated swimming pool. I enjoy reading. I’ve just finished Donald Friend’s Diary. I knew him well and I got a good mention in his book. I usually enjoy a whisky soda around seven before dinner. Tell us about your parents… My father was Colonel of the Black Watch, as I mentioned. He was away from home a lot, in Palestine between 1935 and ’38, keeping the Jews and Arabs apart – just the same as today. After 1945 he was town major of Dusseldorf. In 1950 he returned home to Perth, Scotland, home of the Black Watch. He was Colonel in Chief at Balhousie Castle. So my sister and myself saw little of him until he came back to Perth. By that time we were all grown up. The Germans called the Black Watch the ladies from hell – kilts and all. I suppose I was closer to my mother, but we had a very happy family. Do you have any famous relatives? Sir Andrew and Lady Urquhart, the last Governor General in Nigeria and a few black sheep. My mother always said don’t do a family tree as many of her relations were sheep stealers on the borders of Scotland and England. In those days they hung them if caught. Are you a dog or a cat man? Dog. I have two. A Golden Retriever called Alfie and a Bali dog called Putih, thrown over the wall three years ago. I thought it was a baby pig, now he’s a super dog. What’s the secret to being successful as an expatriate in Indonesia? First remember that you’re a guest working here. Abide by the rules and regulations. Immerse yourself in the local culture. In most cases expatriates are here to give knowledge, experience and guidance to people working with them. What’s key about running a company
with thousands of employees? Ensure that all levels of staff have a good staff relations, staff training programmes, promotion opportunities and good working conditions. You worked in tourism for 30 years – what’s your favourite holiday destination? I love Thailand and I go to Phuket every January as it rains here in Bali. The Phuket sunshine reminds me of this island. I love Thai food, the great beaches and the people. Who is the most striking person you have ever met here? Dr. AAG. Made Tjelantik, a very good doctor, a great person. He eradicated malaria in Lombok and Bali, although I understand malaria is coming back. He also worked with WHO in many developing countries, set up hospitals in Bali and helped with free clinics for the poor. The other person I would cite is Tjok Agung Ubud. When he was alive he took a great interest in the development of Ubud, created the Puri Lukisan with Rudolf Bonnet. I knew both of them. What would you most like to see change about the island? Like many people, I would like to see better planning of infrastructure which would accommodate the people of Bali and maintain the ambiance of the island. What’s the most important lesson you have learned in your life? To enjoy whatever you do. What’s the best advice anyone has ever given you? My father advised me when I was just starting to work to save money. Who do you most admire, living or dead? Sir Winston Churchill. What do you believe happens to us after we die? Well in my case, I think I’ll return to Bali and live here. I want to be cremated on the island, with my ashes spread in my garden. I’ll live in my Banyan tree and see Gunung Agung by day and the full moon by night. What’s the most important thing we should know about Stanley Allison? That I have enjoyed life and have good friends and hope have been able to help others.
Questions, Questions
What name were you given at birth? Henry Grady James, but I was always called Jamie, even as a baby. Where did you grow up? Houston, Texas, on a street that went from being out in the sticks when I was a kid, with armadillos and copperheads creeping around, to inner city by the time I graduated from high school. What was the defining moment in your youth? When I read The Catcher in the Rye – I never knew I could care so much about a made-up person, who only existed in the words of a writer. Or was it seeing Jimi Hendrix play? What do you do for a living? I write. Why do you do it? To put rice on the table. How do you do it? A sentence at a time. When did you realise you were good at it? I’m not sure I’ve entirely reached that point – people tell you you’re good, but what do they know? It’s not that I think I’m a great writer; it’s that most of the writing you see around you is so wretched. How many books have you written? Seven. Which one should we read first? The new one, of course! The Snake Charmer is out from Hyperion in June. It’s the biography of Joe Slowinski, a famous American herpetologist who was the world’s leading expert on the venomous snakes of Asia. In 2001, while he was leading a huge scientific expedition in northern Burma near the Chinese border, in a tragic blunder he was bitten by a krait – the deadliest land snake in Asia. The other scientists kept him alive for 30 hours by mouth-to-mouth respiration, waiting for a helicopter rescue that came too late. His whole life was incredibly interesting. He was a daredevil snake wrangler – sort of like Steve Irwin, except Joe was actually a brilliant scientist. I get into the politics of Big Science, the cutthroat competition for money and power. So it’s a portrait of a fascinating scientist that culminates in a true-life jungle adventure tale. Check out the book’s website: snakecharmerbook.com. What was it like working for The New Yorker? It was the best editorial experience I ever had.
Everyone who worked there was so interesting. The kid who delivered the mail might be a prize-winning poet or an expert on Mayan textiles. It was very democratic – since everyone was a little bit grand in one way or another, anybody who acted grand got the raspberry. Is Tina Brown the best editor in the world? Tina hired me and opened up great opportunities for me, so of course I admire her judgment and editorial wisdom enormously! But she never got terribly interested in the copy unless it was about one of her famous friends. I wrote mostly about art, so once in a while word would come down that we should cover some artist Tina had met at a dinner party. Otherwise she let me do what I wanted – one definition of a great editor. What’s the worst thing about being a writer? The solitude. No one has any idea what you’re up to until the book comes out, and by then you’re sick of thinking about it. Do you read the comments that people make about your work on Amazon? No, I never thought of doing that. What do they say? Who is the best writer living today? I suppose I ought to be consistent and say J.D. Salinger, the author of The Catcher in the Rye. Of course, he’s been silent for 50 years – maybe he’s on to something! But I don’t believe in ranking writers like that. Maybe the best writer living today is David Chase, the guy who created The Sopranos. Should we write if we want to be rich? It’s like anything else – if you make the best pancakes, people will pay whatever you ask. There are lots of writers in L.A. making heaps of money writing hip-hop vampire sequels and jokes for Ellen DeGeneres, but the market for the print media is shrinking faster than the rainforest in Sumatra. What is good writing? It can be so many things. Think how happy you would be if the instruction book for your new camera were written well enough that you could understand it! How did you come to be living in Bali? My partner, Bonita, wanted to come to Bali to open a restaurant, so we moved here from Jakarta in 2004. I love Jakarta in theory – it’s maybe the most soulful city in the world –
but in practice I got sick of sitting in traffic and breathing filthy air. I can do what I do anywhere, as long as they have an airport and the internet. If you weren’t here, where would you be? Maybe L.A., to be near my family? London, if I were rich? Every place is interesting, if you bother to have a look. What’s on your desk right now? I’m working on a column about Kipling for the Wall Street Journal, specifically the Jungle Books. How ‘American’ are you? Well, not as American as I was 10 years ago, but mostly in shallow ways – saying “pissed” to mean drunk instead of angry, that sort of thing. I don’t think you ever lose your national traits. What’s wrong with America today? One of the worst things is always having to be thinking and talking about what’s wrong with America. Where to start? The wickedness of the present government is horrifying, of course, but living outside the country, you begin to realise how dangerous even the “nice Americans” are, their cluelessness about the world and addiction to luxury. None of it would matter much if the country weren’t so obscenely rich. There’s probably more money spent at beauty spas for pets in L.A. than on health services for all the children of Bali. It’s actually more interesting to think about what’s right with America. They work harder than anybody in the world: your average editor or business executive in Manhattan works harder and longer than the navvies slaving away on construction sites here in Bali. And all that American niceness is actually quite nice. Clinton or Obama (or McCain?) I’m sticking with the cracker bitch: I think it would be good for the country to have a woman president. But the day Obama gets the nomination, I will write him a check. It may be too late, but if the country is to be saved from its mad embrace of this bellicose barbarism, there has to be a change in the government. Do you believe in God? I agree with Garrison Keillor: I believe in God, but I have no idea what he wants from me. What is the purpose of life, do you think? Perhaps it is to seek the answer to that question?
Questions, Questions
Bali-based author Jamie James worked at The New Yorker before books beckoned. His seventh is out this June.
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Questions, Questions
Joe Slowinski spent his whole life around deadly snakes. A momentary lapse led to his undoing, according to this excerpt from The Snake Charmer, by Jamie James. No snake kills with more ruthless efficiency than the many-banded krait, which dwells in the jungles of India and Southeast Asia. Drop for drop, its venom is the deadliest of any land serpent’s, apart from a few rare species found only in the outback of Australia. One bite of the krait carries enough concentrated toxin to kill two dozen grown men. American soldiers during the war in Vietnam called it the “two-step snake,” in the belief that its venom is so lethal that if it bites you, you will fall dead after taking just two steps. That’s an exaggeration, but the bite of the many-banded krait is astonishingly potent. The venom is a neurotoxin, which means that it disables the victim’s nervous system—like yanking an electrical plug out of the socket. Death comes when neurotransmission ceases: With no instructions to breathe, the muscles of the diaphragm are stilled, and the victim asphyxiates. Usually the victim of the many-banded krait is another snake; because the species is cannibalistic, it might even be another krait. Yet it never seeks larger prey. The last thing it wants is a brush with a human being; the snake is far more likely to end up dead from the encounter than the person is. But the many-banded krait is built to kill, and if it is threatened, it can only do what it is programmed to do: It bites. Most people go to great lengths to avoid meeting a many-banded krait, but in 2001, biologist Joe Slowinski traveled from San Francisco, where he was a curator of herpetology at the California Academy of Sciences, to Upper Burma, expressly to look for them—and all the other reptiles and amphibians he could find. Joe was one
of the leading experts in the world on the venomous snakes of Asia, and his latest expedition was the most ambitious scientific mission in Burma’s history: He was leading fifteen naturalists and more than a hundred Burmese support staff into wilderness terrain that was scarcely known to science. It might seem logical to deduce from the wide availability and superfine detail of satellite mapping that the wilderness of Earth has now been fully charted, all its secrets exposed. Yet that is far from the case: There are still vast tracts of the planet that remain almost unexplored. Burma, which many people now call Myanmar, the Southeast Asian country west of Thailand, is one of the most poorly studied places in the world. Neglected by British scientists in colonial times, ripped apart by civil war in the postwar period, and brutally plundered by its own corrupt military regime since a coup in 1988, Burma hasn’t had time for science. In his memoir Burma’s Icy Mountains, the British botanist Frank Kingdon-Ward, one of the few foreign explorers to venture there, observed after an expedition in 1937, “North Burma is an excellent example of a country which is surveyed but not explored.” Since Kingdon-Ward’s day, much of the rest of the world has been studied intensively, but Burma remains terra virtually incognita—a potential treasure house for an enterprising biologist. When a former student of Joe Slowinski’s discovered a new species of nonvenomous snake in Louisiana a few months before Joe’s expedition, it was the first new serpent species to be identified in North America in more than half a century. Yet the wildlife of Burma remains so little known that Joe and his
small band of American and Burmese colleagues discovered new species on virtually every expedition and projected that their research would eventually yield more than fifty previously unknown reptiles and amphibians—perhaps as many as one hundred and fifty. Here, in the foothills of the Himalayas, the most remote region he had yet studied, Joe expected to discover many new species. Joe Slowinski and his team—botanists, ichthyologists, and ornithologists, experts on insects and mammals—were foot soldiers in Darwin’s army. Modern biologists, armed with sophisticated technology, are continuing the great intellectual adventure of compiling a comprehensive census of life on Earth, an audacious enterprise launched in the Enlightenment and given its theoretical foundation by Darwin himself, and carrying it forward into the twenty-first century. It was late summer, the stormy end of the monsoon. No sensible person who wanted to come to Putao District, Kachin State, in uppermost Burma, would contemplate going there during the rainy season. But frogs love water, and where there are frogs, there are snakes to eat them. Joe had expected muddy trails, bad food, and squalid campsites; as far as he was concerned, that was all part of the fun. Yet this expedition set a new standard of misery. The rain had poured almost incessantly since they set out from Putao, the small town that served as the administrative capital of this isolated region. The trail was a deep river of fine, clinging clay mud. Malarial mosquitoes and sharp-biting sandflies swirled in tormenting clouds; legions of thirsty leeches lurked in every dank, dark recess.
Most dispiriting of all, the snake collecting had been poor. Yes, rain brings out snakes, but not when it’s as heavy as this. How can you find snakes to catch when the rain sheets down so densely that you can scarcely make out the back of the hiker ten feet ahead of you? On September 9, the expedition reached a village called Rat Baw, by far the most advanced settlement the group had seen since leaving Putao. It even had a street paved with cobblestones and a frame schoolhouse with a tin roof—rare luxuries in a region where most people shared smoky bamboo huts with their livestock. The scientists made their camp in the school, the first dry berth they had had in many days. Their luck finally seemed to be changing: The afternoon they arrived the sun came out—and so did the snakes. Joe and the other herpetologists immediately headed into the forest to search for reptiles. Nobody alive knew more about kraits than Joe Slowinski did. One thing he knew was how tricky they can be to identify, for there are nonvenomous snakes that mimic them with amazing accuracy. Joe had recently discovered one such species and named it himself. Lycodon zawi, a wolf snake, imitates the krait’s alternating black and white bands so closely that it’s difficult to make a definite identification from a few feet away. Another species, Dinodon septentrionalis, is a dead ringer for the krait. The nonvenomous Dinodon mimics the many-banded krait so uncannily well that even an experienced herpetologist might need a magnifying glass to tell them apart. The only way to be sure is to examine the snake’s head,
Questions, Questions
to see whether what is known as the loreal scale is present, just below the eye: a fleck scarcely bigger than a snowflake, a tiny pentagon of horny skin that tells the difference between a harmless, handsomely banded Dinodon and the lethal krait. This classic example of mimicry evolved millions of years ago, when predators avoided snakes that resembled the venomous krait, giving them an edge for survival. Nature didn’t give the Dinodon venom, but it got the next best thing: a resemblance to the deadly many-banded krait, which makes snake-eating predators shy off. More interesting to Joe, however, were the snakes that he and the other herpetologists were still carefully logging as Bungarus multicinctus; the many-banded krait (a name coined in 1861 by Edward Blyth, a British zoologist in Calcutta) probably belonged to other species. In 2001, the consensus was that the scientific name Bungarus multicinctus comprised several different species of krait, which were still waiting to be collected and identified by a skilled herpetologist. Joe Slowinski thought he was just the man for the job. One of the most telling documents of the expedition is a photograph of Joe standing in a patch of sunlight, wrangling a many-banded krait. The ostensible purpose of the photograph was to serve as an archival record of the specimen, but the shot also powerfully conveys Joe’s confident mastery of the situation. The children of the village came out to gawk as the paleskinned visitor, taller and stockier than the malnourished men who lived there, freehandled the dangerous serpent they called ngan taw kyar (“royal tiger snake”) with cool bravado. Their parents hung back, looking over a twig fence, watching in astonishment as the krait twisted and wriggled in the stranger’s expert hands. Joe was a brilliant biologist in his prime, but he took a visceral, almost rapturous delight in handling snakes. This pleasure shines through in the photograph, captured in a glorious interlude of sun: The light gleams on Joe’s mop of tawny hair and goatee, glinting pennybright. At thirty-eight, Joe’s life was riding a dizzying upward arc. Four years earlier, he’d
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been toiling in a dead-end job as a lecturer at a small university in Louisiana; now he was among the most respected and influential herpetologists in America. A few days before Joe left San Francisco for the expedition, the National Science Foundation had awarded him a grant for $2.4 million—the largest public research grant the California Academy of Sciences had received in its 148-year history. By year’s end, he would take over the chairmanship of the herpetology department at the Academy, the premier natural-history museum in the American West. And Joe was in love—unexpectedly and passionately in love—with a beautiful woman he’d recently met in San Francisco. With the toad middle age squatting in the middle of his path, leering, he was thinking of settling down. In Burma, Joe dreamed of Sandy. That evening, the group received bad news. Runners from the next village on the expedition’s route arrived in Rat Baw, reporting that mudslides had closed roads, and floods had washed out bridges on the trail ahead. Joe had planned to press on soon into the Himalayas, even more remote terrain; now it appeared that the journey onward would almost certainly have to be canceled. Yet the next morning Joe rose early and bounded out of his sleeping bag into the gray mist of first light. He found his Burmese assistant already hard at work on the porch, attempting to bring some order to the specimens collected the day before. The snakes were in cloth bags, lined up on the assistant’s worktable. Every now and then, one of the bags would wiggle and thump. Joe asked about a particular specimen, and the assistant handed it to him, saying that he thought it was a Dinodon. Although it was still too dark to see well, Joe absentmindedly thrust his right hand into the sack to extract the specimen and have a look. Immediately, he winced with pain and yanked out his hand. A tiny black-and-white banded snake, less than ten inches long, was dangling limply from his middle finger, its fangs still sunk into his flesh. Joe looked at it in quiet horror. Without the hope of a doubt, he said, “That’s a fucking krait.”
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Vintage
It’s an odyssey many have made, for many different reasons. The first foreigners that washed up on Bali
encountered a king, standing in a chariot, drawn by white bulls. He was followed by an entourage of de-
formed dwarves. Later came the Colonialists, bent on
dominance with the lure of rich spices in their eyes. And finally there came the likes of us: the sybarites,
the escapees, the runaways and the searchers. How did you come to be living in this particular paradise?
Vintage
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Vintage
Retired Music Promoter “IT was a good life, or that’s what I thought then. My first wife was very exciting, I owned Chequers Nightclub in Sydney. On stage were Sammy Davis, Shirley Bassey, Ray Charles, Tina Turner…and many more of the world’s finest artists. I had money-girls-fun. However, I was not really happy! Now 60–plus with my marriage behind me, I have started a new life in Bali. My daughter Janine, her husband Nigel Double and grandson Lachlan are making this life perfect for me. We are all very lucky to be living here. The Balinese are forever smiling and make me feel very welcome. The rest of my family also love it here and will visit often. With any luck, I will spend the rest of my time here, happy in Bali.”
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Vintage Vintage
Ubud Writers’ Festival Organiser “SO what brought me to the shimmering shores of this fabled island, I hear you ask? I fell prey to the seductive charms of Bali in the summer of 1974 when my father decided to take us on an exotic family holiday (that he probably later regretted; to a tropical Asian hideaway that was beginning to capture the hearts of many intrepid Australians. I had never been overseas before and Indonesia was a mystery. That first visit made a lasting impact on my life. Imagine Ubud more than 30 years ago. I felt like Alice in Wonderland, stepping cautiously into a resplendent culture of startling beauty and wild energy. And I was on sensory overload. I tasted food that defied description, watched dance movements that resembled the flutter of gilded butterflies and saw processions that took my breath away. You could say I was spellbound. I returned to Bali 10 years later in 1984 to a land that was still drenched in magic and mystique. Of course, meeting my husband, Ketut, the second day, also played a major part in the attraction. And slowly Bali became my home. The rest, as they say, is history. Or was that simply history in the making?” 53
Vintage
Author, Island of Bali, 1937 “TODAY almost everybody has heard of Bali. To some it means a smart place to go, one of the many ports in a round-the-world cruise; to others it brings mental images of brown girls with beautiful breasts, palm trees, rolling waves, and all the romantic notions that go to make a South Sea Island paradise. In general the popular knowledge of Bali ends there. But only six years ago when I sailed with Rose for the remote island, no-one seemed even to have heard of the place; we had to point it out on the map, a tiny dot in the swarm of islands east of Java. We had seen a splendid album of Bali photographs, and gradually we had developed an irresistible desire to see the island, until one Spring day of 1930 we found ourselves, rather unexpectedly, on board the Cingalese Prince, a freighter bound for the Dutch East Indies. In New York we were told that Malay was the language of the islands and that we must learn it to be understood there. So on the six weeks’ voyage through the Panama Canal, across the Pacific Ocean, and down the China Sea, we took daily lessons in the elementary Malay from a sailor on board, a young Javanese who joined the ship to see the world, but who was disappointed because, he said, all he had seen was the sea around him, for when the boat docked he seldom had a chance to go ashore.”
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Vintage Vintage
Fashion Designer “BANG! I got smashed in my car. I am in Milan, 1972, one month in hospital and few months later some money from the insurance…so let’s go and have a holiday in tropical Asia…While in London, a new destination comes on the map – the mysterious island of Bali. Don’t know where it is...I check on the atlas...and here I am landed in Denpasar airport, November 1973. The airport is quite a different story. I am intoxicated by different smells, frangipani and clove cigarettes…I drive in a taxi to a small hotel in Sanur and I see my first Balinese temple. Wow. Where have I landed, I wonder – on the Flash Gordon planet Mongo? After a few days I move from the sophisticated Sanur to a non-existent Kuta Beach, staying in one of the few losmen available. The beach was pristine – no vendors, no massage, no nothing. Just the waves, white sand...There was no road even, just a small path to reach Legian. Going to Seminyak was an adventure trip through coconut groves and deep jungle. I half expected to be attacked by giant snakes or a hungry tiger...of course all in my imagination. But this is how I felt. I fell in love with all of It. The non-luxury, the non-best, the non-night life... there was that harmony between Man and Nature that we are so seriously determined to compromise. The next big T-shirt will surely read: ‘Save Bali From The Likes Of Us.’ “ 55
Old Guard
Left: Dutch troops arriving in Bali, 1906. Top: And again at the close of WW2. Above: Taking the surrender from the Japanese. Photos courtesy of Leonard Lueras from the book, Sanur.
Dutchman Johan Cornelis Princen deserted his countrymen to fight for an independent Indonesia. Holland still can’t forgive him, writes Adrian Batten. TREACHERY is a hard call. Easy to determine, if it’s done for money. Harder, through conviction. Time was, “my country, right or wrong” did it. You did not bear arms against your fellow countrymen, period. Unless of course it was a civil war or God demanded it. When it comes to causes transcending national or religious zealotry, we are back in murky territory. Much depends on how “pure” the conviction is judged to be, how sullied by ignoble, usually psychological motivations (à la Kim Philby, let’s say). Whatever the cause, noble or base, these remain questions for posterity. What then are the Dutch to make of “Poncke” Princen after 60 years? And why should anyone who isn’t Dutch give a damn? The answer to the second question first, is that it is a rare and wonderful thing when a human being sets truth, fairness and love of humanity over life, country and friends. And, what’s more, dedicates their
life to doing something about it. As for the Dutch, “Poncke” Princen, is unfinished work. Holland enjoys a pretty much deserved reputation as a liberal and tolerant society. But that doesn’t mean there’s not stuff been swept under the carpet and some housekeeping is not in order.... Nederlanders appear to have awarded themselves a high grade for their WW2 experience. Do they deserve it? The Royal family relocated to London and a government in exile continued the war. There was an active Dutch resistance to the Nazis. On the other hand, there was equal, if not greater, collaboration. Over 25,000 Dutch volunteered to fight for the Nazi cause in the Waffen SS, more than any other European country; 10,000 of them were killed in action. The story of Anne Frank notwithstanding, proportionately Holland gave up more of its Jews than any other Western
European country. A similar selective memory appears to be at work with the de-colonialisation of the Dutch East Indies. After 350 years of Dutch rule, no government in the Nederlands could contemplate the economic result of such a loss of empire. Unlike the British in India, the Dutch resolved to fight. The Royal Dutch Army and Army of the Indies (KNIL) being insufficient for the task, the government of the day was forced to conscript young Dutchmen on questionable legal grounds, sending them half way across the world to kill and be killed. All wars involve atrocities. Forcing young men to risk their lives overseas in a fight that is not theirs, in a war of questionable morality, involving the oppression of people of another colour, almost guarantees war crimes. Britons need not feel smug about WW2, in that they were not occupied. Had they been, one can hardly doubt the de-
mographics of collaboration would have been any different from the rest of Europe. And, no colonial power escapes unbesmirched the acquisition, maintenance and dissolution of empire. By the same token, anti-colonial elite’s may have their national heroes, but anyone who believes they did not themselves commit war crimes against both the foreign enemy and their own people, deceive only themselves. Johan Cornelis Princen was already a deserter and Dutch conscript, when in 1946 he was sent to fight the nationalist rebels in the Dutch East Indies. In 1948 he again deserted, this time to fight with the pro-independence guerillas against his countrymen. He was sentenced to death in absentia in 1949, lost his citizenship and the right to return to Holland. His name and memory is still hated by many in the Netherlands. Why should such a man – not just be
Old Guard
rehabilitated, but be held up for admiration? Not only in the country of his birth, but as an object lesson to us all? The simple answer is, that an ordinary man, who with steadfast courage and principle is prepared to stand up against the unjust exercise of power through affection and solidarity with all other “ordinary” people, is not ordinary at all. Such a man is not just bloodyminded, a “bolshie”, he is a rare treasure. We have not seen his like since the late 18th Century, when libertarian Tom Paine managed to piss off British, American and French powers-that-be from Robespierre, to George Washington to King George III himself, all in solidarity with the common man. Johan Princen was born in 1925 in the Hague to free-thinking parents with impeccable anarchist credentials. Given such a blue-chip radical upbringing, it was inevitable that young Princen would want to become a Catholic priest and in 1939 he entered a seminary. In 1940 Germany invaded and occupied the Nederlands. By 1942, 17-year-old Princen had reverted to type, decided against the Church and joined the Resistance. He was arrested by the Germans in 1943, heading overland for Spain. He spent the next two years in Nazi prisons in Holland and Germany before liberation in 1945. It was in a Wermacht camp he earned the lifelong nickname “Poncke” from his habit of reading aloud to fellow inmates from his favourite book Pastor Poncke by Jan Eekhout. On release, Princen worked with the newly-formed Bureau of National Security, hunting down collaborators and war criminals, also keeping an eye on natives of the Dutch East Indies seeking to subvert Dutch rule. In March 1946 Princen was called up for national service in the Royal Dutch Indies Army (KNIL). The KNIL, a volunteer force, was unable to find enough men, so the government proceeded with the callup, promising conscripts would not be used in action. Having experienced Nazi oppression first hand, Princen not only refused to recognise the legality of the call-up but didn’t see why he should be used to oppress people in another country, with whom he had
no quarrel. Deserting, he fled to France but was arrested and jailed early in 1946 while visiting his sick mother. March of that year saw Princen aboard the troopship Sloterdijk bound for the Indies. He was not to see his country again, apart from one fleeting visit, shortly before his death in 2002. On arrival in the Indies, Princen was immediately jailed for his earlier desertion. He returned to duty in early 1948 but was disgusted by the contempt and brutality with which Dutch troops and authorities treated the local population. He was later to explain: “...two years in concetration camps, hearing men being led off to their
Dutch appeared to be winning, capturing Jogjakarta and the other major cities, including the new Republic’s political leaders Hatta and Sukarno. Releasing Princen, the rebels offered him the chance to fight with the TNI, the recently established Indonesian army. Princen was to see action with rebel commanders Kemal Idris and A. H. Nasution in Central and West Java and became a staff officer to the 2nd Brigade Purwakarta Group. It was in August 1949 Princen lost his first wife Odah, shot by Dutch soldiers, while they were redeploying from Central to West Java with the TNI. It was to be expected that an articulate
Clockwise from top left: Princen in confinement; as a lawyer in Jakarta; his biography shot; Dutch soldiers unload.
deaths every day...made me hate cruelty and injustice and want to fight it. I thought the Indonesians were right. They should be able to decide their own future.” That September, during the uneasy truce of 1948 before the Dutch launched their final campaign to break Indonesian resistance, Princen took the irrevocable step of crossing the Line of Demarcation into rebel-held territory, and, via Semarang reached Jogjakarta, the provisional capital of the newly-proclaimed Republic of Indonesia. The Indonesians promptly threw him in jail for the first, but by no means the last, time. With the resumption of hostilities, the
Dutch soldier with impeccable anti-Nazi credentials fighting with the rebels would be used for propaganda purposes by the Indonesians, and that the Dutch would react with fury, arousing a bitter enmity that was to continue to his dying day. “Did you actually shoot at Dutch soldiers? Did you actually kill some of them?”, he was asked in later years. “Yes, I did”, was the direct and honest response. “I can understand why they hate me. But finally, it’s a matter of choice...” By the end of 1949, despite military victories, the Dutch position became untenable, not least because the US threatened financial sanctions and withdrew support
at the UN. Holland reluctantly ceded the East Indies in its entirety to the new republic, with the exception of Dutch-controlled New Guinea. A strong demand for the extradition of Princen was made but President Sukarno wouldn’t hear of it, instead awarding Princen the Guerilla Star, the highest decoration the new nation could make. Princen became a Hero of the Nation, a title that stood him in good stead in the years to come as he fell out, as he so frequently did, with the leaders of his new country. That same year the Dutch tried Princen for treason in absentia and sentenced him to death. In 1950 Princen remarried, converting to Islam. It was, he claimed, a mark of cultural solidarity with his new country. His career as a rebel and a dissident, however, was far from over. His inconvenient passion for fairness and sticking up for the underdog did not change. For five years he worked as a civil servant and explored Indonesia by motorbike. By 1956 he was a Member of Parliament, quickly earning disfavour, asking pointed questions on the allocation of national resources. Princen was very much numbered among the “obstructing parliamentarians” Sukarno cited as a reason for the introduction of “Guided Democracy”. Sukarno had him arrested and jailed in 1957-58 and again, as violent struggles increasingly wracked the nation, from 1962-66. Initially Princen had some hopes of good government from Suharto’s New Order regime, which released him from prison, but it didn’t last long. Throughout the remainder of the 1960s, Princen concerned himself with human rights and labour relations. He set up Indonesia’s Institute for the Defence of Human Rights, providing reliable information to Western newsmen and defending human rights cases in court. He it was, along with other Indonesian journalists, who campaigned on behalf of Pramoedya Toer and published the first reports of the actions of PKI and sympathisers in 1965/66. Speaking out, following the Jakarta riots of 1974, ostensibly against Japanese economic domination, but in reality expressing popular resentment over the growing gap between rich and poor, Prin-
Old Guard
cen was jailed for two years, 1974-76. From that time on, Princen increasingly fought to improve labour relations, establishing the Merdeka Labour Union in 1990. “Labour rights are human rights,” US journalist and friend Max White quoted him as saying. He became a founding member of the Petition of Fifty, a movement for democratic reform, which included conservative military figures who had fallen out with Suharto and which for the first time presented a real challenge to the New Order. It was with East Timor that the calibre of the man is most probably best judged. He was perhaps the first man in Indonesia to speak out publicly against the atrocities going on there, favouring a political settlement at a time when even his Indonesian allies in the labour and human rights movements were uncomfortable going against the nationalist tide. In 1994 Princen testified before the UN Commission on Human Rights, and was frequently consulted by overseas statesmen, media and NGO’s. Following the Santa Cruz massacre in Dili, Princen gave refuge to five Timorese political refugees, refusing to give them up to the army until arrangements for safe conduct to Portugal were made. This was to be the height of the many times he and his family were to be threatened with violent death, torture and jail. Princen’s work as a lawyer never earned him much in the way of material wealth. Unlike other prominent human rights lawyers whose careers benefited from their high profile on the human rights front, Princen remained a figure whose only interest was in defending the rights of the small. Visitors to his succession of poky offices in the early ‘90s remember calling on him to find themselves welcomed by Princen resting in his underwear, and his close friends recall that it was seldom that they were able to leave before parting with a contribution to help pay his driver or his phone bill. From 1998 on, the 73-year old Princen suffered a series of strokes which confined him to a wheelchair. It did not slow him down. Wheel-bound, he continued to appear in court and was prominent in the activities that lead to Suharto’s final departure from power.
He died in February, 2002, from a final stroke aged 76 at his home in East Jakarta and is survived by his wife and four children, two of whom live in Holland. It is typical of the man that he declined to be buried in the Hero’s Cemetery at Kalibata, insisting he be buried alongside ordinary people in the public cemetery at Pondok Kelapa. “Poncke” Princen was nothing if not consistent to the end. The Dutch have never really accepted, let alone apologised, for their conduct in Indonesia over the period 1946-49. In 1969, Jan Hueting, a KNIL conscript, broke the story of the atrocities and crimes committed to the media, provoking an outpouring from other vets suffering similar pangs of conscience. But politicians and the public didn’t want to hear it. The government of the day allowed that rare individual “excesses” may have occurred but it was not “systematic policy”, they said. In 1995, Queen Beatrix visited Indonesia at the time of its 50th Anniversary of Independence, but declined to attend the actual ceremony. She gave the country a Friesian cow to mark the occasion, which must say something... As for “Poncke” Princen, he has never been rehabilitated in the Nederlands. His death sentence “lapsed”. Members of “vet’ organisations threatened to kill him to his dying day. Only after his death did a Dutch cabinet minister, Jan Pronk, pay official, if tepid tribute. “Poncke Princen was no hero, martyr or saint, but first and foremost a human rights activist,” he told Radio Nederlands. More fitting tribute poured in from friends, journalists, fellow activists as well as human rights colleagues like Munir Said Thalib. He was, they said, “mourned by Indonesians, from Tapols to government, even military men”…”he devoted his life to human rights, teaching moderation and tolerance”…“He will be deeply missed.” If Minister Pronk was right about “Poncke” not being a martyr, his young friend Munir most certainly was. The truest and best epitaph for “Poncke” Princen then is this: no one in power, Dutch or Indonesian, could stand him for long. But, many were compelled, in some part, to respect him to his dying day.
Friday Afternoon
One mix master, many molecular
This page: A little dry ice with your Sea Breeze, Madame? Right: Molecular mixologist Grant Collins gets to grips with a pair of goggles, some liquid nitrogen and a very long spoon...
Friday Afternoon
cocktails and a blindfold...Katrina Valkenburg discovers A New Way To Get Hammered.
Friday Afternoon
This page: Booze? Check. Cocktail umbrellas? Check. Syringe...? Babycham will never be the same again. Right: Some kind of Molecular Olive Suspension that we forget the name of (hic).
Friday Afternoon
We all like a handsome barman but how about one that remains unbearably handsome wearing goggles and steel-meshed gloves? Oh, such a lucky girl am I, to be one of three lucky souls to be invited to attend Bar School one Friday afternoon at the ultra chic Ku De Ta. From our privileged position at the bar, we were taunted, teased and tested by the boys from Bar Solutions on all things Molecular – whizzing, grilling, grinding, caramelising, shaking, stirring, throwing, whisking and… But this was no ordinary school. Think Molecular Gastronomy (if you can). And then think Molecular Mixology. Confused? Read on. Molecular gastronomy is a scientific approach to cooking. By studying the physical and chemical processes behind the transformation of ingredients whilst being cooked, chefs can determine such things as why a soufflé rises. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, the term started to be used to describe a new style of cooking in which some chefs began to explore new possibilities in the kitchen by embracing science, research, technological advances in equipment and various natural gums and hydrocolloids produced by the commercial food processing industry, including the world-renown chef Ferran Adrià from El Bulli Restaurant in Spain. Adrià has won the adulation of food critics and cooks by whipping up startling combinations of texture, temperature and taste: bite-size cuttlefish ravioli that explode in a burst of coconut and ginger, soft-boiled quail egg with a crispy caramel crust, a polenta of frozen powdered Parmesan cheese, almond ice cream on a swirl of garlic oil and balsamic vinegar. Inevitably it wasn’t too long before some bright spark decided to apply the same principles to booze. Hence and hey presto, Molecular Mixology. Our barman extraordinaire for our planned afternoon of adventure into untouched waters was to be Grant Collins, Managing Director of Bali, Hong Kong and Sydney-based Bar Solutions…and an absolute master in the creation of out-of-thebox cocktails. He showed us his tricks. First, the basics: three versions of the classic Dry
Martini – stirred, shaken and thrown. Traditionally, a Dry Martini is a delicate combination of the very best gin and dry vermouth. How you make this cocktail comes down to personal preference. In the stirred method, vermouth is poured over ice into the Martini glass, swished around a bit and then thrown away while the gin is poured over ice and stirred clockwise 18 times (don’t ask me why, it’s just the way it
the throw. What was so exciting about this exercise was the distinct difference of flavour from one method to the other. It all comes down to the amount of time the gin is in contact with the ice, and how much of the melted ice ends up in the glass diluting its potential, hence the term ‘Dry’ Martini. For those looking for the driest Martini, go for the stirred method.
is), strained and then added to the glass. And so onto shaken, the most common method employed. Pour the vermouth into the Martini glass, swish around and discard. The gin is then poured into a cocktail shaker full of ice, given a few shakes and then strained into the glass. But here’s the sexy one – thrown. An experienced cocktail maker can make quite a show of this one. Two beakers are employed and the gin is literally thrown a metre or so from one to the other about five times, then strained over ice into the glass. The taller your barman, the longer
Martini drinkers around the globe are very particular about what sort of Martini they are looking for and how it should be made. Should it be Belvedere or Tanqueray or should it be Grey Goose or Absolut Vodka? Most will agree that when it comes to the vermouth it should be Noilly Prat. Some opt for an atomizer to add just the slightest whiff of vermouth to the inside of the glass; others prefer a small pour in the glass before the gin is added. And then there’s the condiment – shall it be a twist of lemon, the pimento-stuffed olive or the tom olive, an olive that resembles an un-
ripe tomato? But wait…there’s more on the not-so-humble Martini. Having been mesmerised by the threeway served Martini, we then moved to lesson number two – a lesson that depicted more about food than drink – the truly deconstructed cocktail. How about a Martini jelly served in a double shot glass and topped with a Vermouth Air? Very delicious indeed, but the one that knocked my socks off was the vodka and tonic. A simple Chinese spoon with a caramelised slice of lime in the middle, a Belvedere vodka jelly and a mixture of bi-carbonate soda, confectioner’s sugar and a secret ingredient (I suspect probably quinine) on top. Put the spoon in your mouth and by Jove, it’s vodka and tonic. Only problem with this one is that it’s extremely deceptive; you think you’re just having one tiny little morsel of alcohol but slowly, slowly, as the jelly digests, you can rapidly feel a wee bit tipsy. Next came a category called Air/ Foams/Jellies/Candy floss/Caviar – what on earth? You probably know about foams, which are sauces that have been turned into froth using a whipped cream canister and sometimes a little lecithin as a stabiliser. They were invented at El Bulli, along with similar ‘airs’ made with an immersion blender. But the caviar? We are not talking Beluga or Sevruga here but tiny spheres made to accompany the cocktail. Caviar in the gastronomic and mixology world is actually spherification, a spectacular cooking technique which enables you to prepare recipes that no one had ever before imagined. It consists of the controlled gelification of a liquid, which, when submerged in a bath, forms spheres. This technique can obtain spheres of different sizes: caviar, eggs, gnocchi, ravioli... You can introduce solid elements into the spheres, which will remain in suspension in the liquid, so that you can achieve two or more flavours in a single preparation. First up was a pretty little pink drink consisting of Campari, Absolut Mandarin, pink grapefruit and cranberry juice with a side of Campari caviar and a twist of lime. But the one shown to us at Ku De Ta that employed nearly all of the techniques list-
Friday Afternoon
“I was blindfolded and an iPod playing Frank Sinatra’s version of Chicago was plugged into my ears.”
Grant and his Extremely Dangerous bottle of liquid nitrogen. It’s cold, you know.
Friday Afternoon
ed was the Clover Club Cocktail. Gin and lemon foam, raspberry puree and raspberry air served in a double shot glass with a stick of clove scented candy floss on the side. Not only did this look like the perfect debutante cocktail but it also tasted Absolutely Fabulous – those girls just didn’t know what they were missing as they downed their Champagne. By now we were ready for nearly anything, but were we ready for our barman to don goggles, put on steel-meshed gloves and bring out the canister of liquid nitrogen? This was exciting beyond belief…but not a practice to be emulated in your own home, methinks. The LN2 Mojito – Bacardi and limejuice were poured into a large punch bowl followed closely behind by the liquid nitrogen. Just as portrayed in the Hammer Horror movies of yesteryear, the brew bubbled and hissed and thick white smoke wafted eerily from the bowl. A mint leaf was treated to the liquid nitrogen separately (it became rock hard, frozen stiff ) and the frozen Mojito was then plopped on the top. Into the mouth, avoiding the lips so the mint didn’t stick and remove vital equipment and voilà, another extraordinary cocktail to write home about. A couple of LN2 ice creams in a cone followed, Bourbon and coke, a Sea Breeze and a Margarita, but as the afternoon wound to a close, I was treated to the pièce de résistance – a complete cocktail sensory experience that blew the proverbial. Firstly, I was a blindfolded and an iPod playing Frank Sinatra’s version of Chicago was plugged into my ears. A Martini was then handed to me and a mist of cigar smoke mingled with petrol fumes was sprayed in my general direction. The effect was immediate and awesome – I felt like I really was in some Chicago dive bar rather than here, in paradise. Thank the Gods that when I was released from this torturous state, I was still sitting at Ku De Ta in glorious Bali. And thank all the Gods for the boys from Bar Solutions who so cunningly caused a casual Friday afternoon to meld into a cataclysmic Saturday. Katrina Valkenburg is a wine communicator and educator. Email katrinav@mac.com
It looks like caviar; they call it caviar...but it’s actualy a cunning little process called spherification. Just something a touch molecular to go with your Pretty Little Pink Drink.
Bali’s Big Six
ing and sugary white orchids bestow the finishing touches. With its roots in Spain, Melia Bali receives plenty of Spanish guests, ranging from holidaymakers to ambassadors. For this reason, check out the gazpacho; pale orange in hue, this delicious cool soup is a true liquid salad; flowing with the fresh taste of vegetables and garlic, suspended in a broth of puréed tomatoes. The paella is another authentic delight. Served steaming hot out of a ‘paellera’, and imparting the rich, tantalising aroma of garlic, lemon, saffron and seafood, it brims with an abundance of colourful ingredients including green beans, red capsicum, mussels in their shells, chunks of red snapper, squid, chicken, prawns and rice.
Club Med
771510
Rachel Greaves goes Continental on her cuisine.
NERO BALI LA SAL Healthy Mediterranean cuisine meets its zenith in the salads and soups of sunny Spain, while the Catalonia region on the Mediterranean coast has a long tradition of rice-dishes and seafood. For a truly authentic taste of Mediterranean Spain, check out La Sal, where you will find terrific tapas, great gazpacho, piping hot paella and satiating sangria. The restaurant is stylish-yet-casual, featuring an open pavilion with tables that spill out into a romantic garden. Here, you can build a meal of tapas or you can treat the tapas like appetisers, enjoying just one or two before committing to a main course. La Sal’s Gonzalo hails from the Mediterranean city of Valencia, birthplace of the paella, which is cooked to perfection by Argentinean Chef Lino. A Popular variation on Lino’s classic preparation includes ‘paella de arroz negro’ – the black pearl, where the rice is stained a deep blue-black with squid ink, and threaded with little pieces of diced squid, cuttlefish and prawn. Tapas dishes include batter-coated sardines, octopus salad, fideua, croquetas, stuffed mussels, prawns, fried squid, and much more, while the dessert menu features the famous Catalan crème brûlée. 738321
Yak map ref: F10
MYKONOS Step through the door of Mykonos and close your eyes for one second. Open them again and you will believe that you have been transported, at the speed of light, from the tropical island of Bali to another little island in the Mediterranean
Sea. This rustic taverna very cleverly captures the beauty and essence of, in fact, two Greek islands with a striking blue and white décor, simple furniture, gingham tablecloths and stunning wall murals. You can smell the aroma of fried garlic and feel the gentle breeze as you imagine yourself sitting beneath the peaceful windmills of Mykonos Island at sunset. Alternatively, you might just be mistaken for believing that you are in Santorini, overlooking the dazzling white churches that cling to the cliffs under a clear blue sky. The menu presents a meze of hot and cold hors d’oeuvres, including melitzanes eggplant dip, the ubiquitous Greek salad, spanakopita spinach pie, and the rice-stuffed vine leaves known as dolmathes. Followed, perhaps, by Mykonos gyros; succulent beef souvlaki; chicken leg in the oven; or lamb medallion prepared in the traditional Greek style with lemon, oregano and garlic. 733253
Yak Map ref: D7
SORRENTO Sorrento, the Mediterranean fine-dining restaurant at Melia Bali Villas & Spa Resort, focuses on Spanish and Italian classics, enhanced with Mediterranean imports – including cold cuts, Serrano hams and Chorizo sausages – together with Bali’s wonderful fresh seafood. Guests have the choice of dining by candlelight in the garden, or within the air-conditioned comfort of the classy interior, which features a dramatic painted ceiling adorned with birds, butterflies and flowers. A carved Palimanan stone frieze, soft light-
One of Kuta’s most beautiful restaurants, Nero Bali’s sexy eclectic interior is a study in progressive textures, from a surge of water features to a monochromic patchwork of floor and wall tiles. Natural stone, timber, cascades of green vines, water hyacinth furnishings, clever lighting and lounge music combine to create a pleasing ambience. Mirrored walls encase the kitchen, multiplying the space and adding to the illusion of boundless size, while the multi-levelled floor comprises a series of romantic alcoves designed to provide privacy. Nero’s tapas menu is a particular delight, presenting authentic flavours within a good selection of savoury dishes that can be enjoyed individually or as a complete feast. The substantial main menu, meanwhile, offers a Mediterranean medley of salads, soups, Italian pasta and pizzas, fish, seafood, poultry and meat – including shish kebabs created from tuna, swordfish, marinated chicken, pork fillet, lamb or Australian tenderloin. Other regional classics include gazpacho, Spanish salad, Greek salad, moussaka, prawns Provencal, and spaghetti con basilico e pomodoro, chased by wicked desserts such as the traditional Greek honey puff known as loukoumades, served with vanilla ice cream. 750756
PANTAREI Panterai presents traditional, homemade Greek cuisine, prepared with feeling, cooked with authenticity and served from the heart. The restaurant is spacious and the décor is striking. Rustic terracotta tiles line the walls and floor, artwork
adorns the walls, colourful spherical lanterns hang from the roof, and an ornamental pond borders an open courtyard complete with water features and palms. Delicious appetisers include avocado stuffed with tarama – an aphrodisiac fish egg mousse; the spinach and feta cheese filo pastry pie known as spanakopita; two different varieties of meatballs; and giant beans baked in tomato sauce, accompanied by pita bread, falafel, hummus, tsatziki cucumber dip and the essential Greek salad. The specialist ingredients, such as the feta, spices, oil and vinegar are imported from Greece, and the most important of these is the olive oil, the base for all Mediterranean recipes. Main dishes feature skewered souvlaki rolls of minced beef; traditional moussaka; and tender lamb taskebab in a red wine and herb sauce with aubergine puree. Six nights a week, one of the Greek owners, Christos Liokouras, and his band, ‘Lio-Koustyx’, will serenade you with lively Greek and Latino music. 732567
Yak Map ref: H13
PJ’S PJ’s is the charming beachside restaurant of Four Seasons at Jimbaran Bay, comprising a trio of open-sided pavilions elevated above the sandy shore. The coastal views are magnificent, the mood is casual and cheery, and the Mediterranean-styled cuisine is superb. Not surprisingly, the main focus is on fresh seafood, in addition to the pizzas for which PJ’s is already so famous. The new lunchtime menu offers an array of appetisers, salads and soups, including crispy calamari, and refreshing tomato gazpacho. Pasta, noodle and rice dishes incorporate prawns, snapper, crabmeat and wagyu beef, while main course specialties include char-grilled lamb and chorizo kebabs, or fish of the day, served grilled or steamed with sautéed seasonal vegetables or a mixed salad. The beachside beer batter fish, accompanied by chunky hand-cut chips, mushy peas, malt vinegar and tartar sauce is probably the best fish ‘n chips in Bali. The new dinner menu additionally features a selection of chilled seafood to share, and a whole section on fresh lobster and prawns, prepared in a variety of different ways. Desserts include the sensational molten chocolate fondant. There is also the thoughtful provision of a special menu for children. 701010
Fork In The Road
The Junction
Photo: The Junction
Yak Map ref: D8
High road Photo: The Junction
All junctions, wherever they be, give one the opportunity to change direction and this particular one, on the corner of Laksmana and Kayu Jati, does just that. A favourite with Seminyak’s lunchtime crew, The Junction come nightfall changes trend from ‘cool and refreshing eatery’ to ‘romantic fine dining restaurant’. With the soiree menu designed by Chris Salans of Mozaic fame, The Junction has raised the bar on what up to now has only existed in high-end hotel dining venues. The trim menu offers six appetisers and six main courses each using top quality ingredients that all seem to have a healthful attitude. Tasmanian salmon tartar, Cucumber dill relish and sesame crisp, low in cholesterol and high in flavour, ditto if you order the Sashimiquality tuna and fresh coconut Ceviche. The grilled prawns are coconut crusted and served with a sweet corn and avocado salad, which perks up the taste buds without widening the waistline. Other GI (Glycaemic Index) friendly choices are the roasted tomato goat’s cheese and basil terrine with ginger gelée and the boneless chicken in Pandan leaf and cucumber coconut salad. With a heightened conscience towards healthful living, dining out need not be a oncea-month indulgence. The Junction has counted its calories, calculated the vitamins and measured their omegas to come up with dishes that keep one coming back night after night, happy in the knowledge that blood sugar levels are perfectly balanced with the Zucchini grilled butter fish medallions, spiced pumpkin purée and mushroom stew, the Tataki peppered tuna, grilled vegetables and an organic red paprika sauce…or the grilled chicken breast Basquaise with bell peppers and young jackfruit. For those whose carbohydrate intakes can take a back seat, try the lamb medallions, which come with a vegetable ratatouille and a creamy potato purée, or the Thai curry and seasonal vegetables with rice. Moving on to the sweeter temptations in life, The Junction passes past a cheese plate with caramelised walnuts and fresh grapes, and serves up a riotous Ginger flan with poached Tamarillo fruit, a hot orange crepe soufflé with caramelised orange sauce or an amazing exotic fruit salad with sorbet. The piece de resistance has to be the Dame Blanche… vanilla ice cream with French hot chocolate. That said, get me to a tennis court. Entrees start at Rp28,000; mains up to Rp100,000; desserts under Rp35,000. Tel: 735610
Warung Ocha
Low road
ON another junction, right in the heart of Seminyak, on the corner of Plawa and Seminyak High Sreet, is Warung Ocha – an institution for the slightly less GI-minded and the more pocket conscious. For the last four years Ocha has been serving up the archipelago’s famous Nasi Campur (Indonesia’s savoury pick and mix with rice dish). With over 23 choices of meat, fish, eggs and vegetables proffered in a mouth-watering display case, one gets to choose exactly what one wants, plus Ibu Ocha’s tressled tables have helped push group eating to the fore. Joining the bars and beaches of Dhyana Pura with the boutiques and interior lifestyle shops of The Yak – in a life-enhancing kind of way – this eatery elbows its way around one of the hood’s busiest corners, giving the diner a fabulous day-to-day or nightlife view of urban Bali. Open from seven in the morning until nigh on midnight, the menu is extensive. Set breakfasts at under Rp29,000 nestle next to an impressive Indonesian fare of nasi, mie or bihun, priced at anything below Rp25.000. Western and Asian dishes go neck and neck on the menu with nothing over Rp33,000. The Ocha favourite is the Grilled Tenderloin that comes either with a mushroom or black pepper sauce with the choix du jour of French fries and salad (37K), or a lovely little curry for 25K. So if it’ s time to sit and watch the world go by, it might be time to sip on a Bintang or San Pellegrino and get into some table sharing. Yak Map ref.: I11
Tel: 736222
Oral Pleasures
Get up close and personal with our photo essay on three of the island’s most intimate and unique private dining rooms.
This page: Bali Catering Company. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Green Spa Cafe; Tugu Hotel; Green Spa; Tugu.
Oral Pleasures
Oral Pleasures
These pages: Bali Catering Company.
Oral Pleasures
Oral Pleasures
This page: Tugu Hotel. Opposite: Green Spa Cafe, Sanur.
Oral Pleasures
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Oral Pleasures
By Katrina Valkenburg
The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is a pre-eminent gastronomic society that tops the scales when it comes to staging astoundingly extravagant culinary dinners. Only the Romans did it better – or perhaps not.
The doors to Gourmet Garage uncharacteristically closed to the public at 2pm on Saturday, 16th February…but it wasn’t for any humdrum reason like stocktaking. The doors were shut so that the up market food store could be transformed by a bevy of hotel staff into a dining room for 72 extremely fortunate gourmands. The aisles were cleared of freezers and move-
able shelving was shunted out of sight to make way for tables and chairs and a multitude of cooking equipment to take centre stage. Entitled ‘Gourmet Grazing’, this was a dinner showcasing foodstuffs from all corners of the globe, expressly for the enjoyment of members of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Brave stewards wearing Antarctic clothing served Beluga Caviar and shots of Grey Goose Vodka in the freezer storeroom; five varieties of North American oysters; shaved Spanish Navidul Jamon Iberico; locally grown yabbies served in their own broth; wild salmon from the cool depths of the Atlantic baked in a course sea salt; grain fed rack of baby Australian lamb; eight-hour slow-roasted rib of Waggu beef; Chambord Flambéed Berries with Hazelnut Financier; Reblochon, Stilton…the list went on and on. Oh – did I forget to mention the
wines? Delamotte Champagne, Henschke, Domaine Laroche, Chateau Gruard-Laros, De Bortoli Noble One and, and, and…so, who are these gourmands and what is the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs? The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an extraordinary gastronomic society launched in Bali in 2001 with the goal of showcasing and supporting the immense talent and creativity of Bali’s chefs – both Indonesian and those drawn here from all corners of the world – and to share the passion for the enriching combination of fine food with equally fine wine and good company. Founded in Paris in 1950, the Chaîne is based on the traditions and practices of the old French Royal Guild of Goose Roasters (these birds were particularly appreciated in that epoch). Its authority gradually expanded to the roasting of all poultry, meat and game. The Guild of Goose Roasters was one of
several guilds founded by Louis IX in Paris in 1248 to thank the craftsmen who had contributed to the building of the Sainte Chapelle, next door to the Cathedral of Nôtre Dame. In 1610 the Guild received its Royal Warrant as The Brotherhood of Roasters and its coat of arms was granted. The brotherhood flourished for over 500 years until the French Revolution, when it was abolished along with all the other guilds in 1793. Reestablished in 1950, the society today has members in more than 100 countries around the world. The society follows the programmes and policies set forth by the international society headquartered in Paris. The Chaîne actively encourages the raising of catering standards and the training of future chefs. Both of which it achieved at Gourmet Garage. Guest chefs from some of the best restaurants and hotels on the is-
Oral Pleasures
Left to right: David Wilson, Heinz von Holzen, Michael Burchett and Yanie Mason.
land, along with their staff, ensured that this was a night to remember for a very long time. And the time and effort by the team at Gourmet Garage and Lotus Distribution was astounding. We are all incredibly lucky to live and play on an island with such an abundance of fertility for growing arguably the best produce in the world, which, when handled by such passionate chefs, becomes sheer culinary heaven. The Yak spoke with a couple of members of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs and asked them a few pertinent questions:
Bill Busch, Gourmet Garage What is your profession and job title? I am the Personal Assistant to the Director Henny Santoso at Gourmet Garage, providing coaching, working with and sharing my experience with the dedicated Lotus Food Service team. Why did you join the Chaîne des Rotisseurs? I have been in the arena of importing and distributing fine foods for F&B operators since the 1970s. The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs venue provides the opportunity to have a dinner with the culinary professionals, and that’s a special treat. How has it developed in Bali since you joined? Over the years, I have been a member in Jakarta and Bali. Bali is fortunate to have a professional committee that maintains the
highest standard and continues to strive for culinary excellence. Why did you decide to host a Chaîne des Rôtisseurs event at Gourmet Garage? David Wilson (GM at The Ritz-Carlton, Bali Resort & Spa) suggested that we use the Gourmet Garage. The venue and ingredients were our contribution. The credit for the success goes to the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Bali Chapter, Mr Heinz Van Holzen, who coordinated the menu for the evening, supported by a cast of executive chefs and F&B Managers from the Bali Culinary Professionals (Markus Krickelberg – F&B Director Westin, Herman Feighl – F&B, Discovery Kartika Plaza; Hans Jurgen Gorsler – Executive Chef, Discovery Kartika Plaza; Stefan Mueller – F&B, Nikko Bali; Juergen Domani – Executive Chef, Nikko Bali; Darren Steven Lauder – Executive Chef, Nusa Dua Beach; Andreas Krampl – Executive Chef, The Ritz-Carlton, Bali Resort & Spa; Ida Bagus Wisnawa – Executive Chef, Bumbu Bali Restaurant and Billy Marinelli – Marinelli Shellfish Co.). Have you Chaîne-d elsewhere in the world? Not yet!
David Wilson David, why did you join the Chaîne? I joined after attending a dinner at The Oberoi a few years ago. As a newcomer to Bali we attended as guests and found a wonderful group of people who were
members. Since then we have always tried to ensure that Chaîne dinners provide an experience that cannot be bought by regular diners. Based on the traditions of the Guild of Les Oyers (the old French royal guild of goose roasters) would you say that the Chaîne is Masonic in nature? Hmmm...never really thought about that, and as I am not a Mason I am not well versed on their practices and rituals! Is there a secret handshake? Or any other kind of shake? No shakes of any kind, although I do remember one dinner where a mini vanilla shake was served with the chocolate desert! What does it take to get kicked out of the Confrérie? I don’t know of anyone who has been “kicked out”. Maybe you could try disrespecting other members, or wearing inappropriate clothing! The Chaîne in Bali is more casual in nature than some of the other countries, partly because Bali encourages a more casual style. We only wear formal dress at the annual dinner; the rest of the dinners are more casual. The concept of “good food and friendship” around the table means that we are fairly easy going. Are there any induction ceremonies? Yes of course. No self-respecting organisation with such a long history would be without a ceremony. To join the Chaîne, you must be recommended by two exist-
ing members. Then you are “knighted” and pledge allegiance to the Chaîne.
Sandra Macarthur What is your profession and job title? Design Consultant. Why did you join the Chaîne? The beautiful Tina Shazell insisted I would love it...and she was so correct. Love the tradition, the glamour of the occasion…looking at these gorgeous women all frocked up. And I do love a man in a dinner suit and the detailed planning that goes with the selection of the food and wines. How lucky we are in Bali to have so many seriously beautiful venues and chefs that can produce for us this amazing experience. Honest opinion on the no-salt, no water, no smoking rule at Chaîne dinners? My opinion? I agree. Do you stick to it? Inside and at the table…yes. They do allow cigars etc at the end of the evening, and a few of us – not mentioning any names – have been looked at with raised eyebrows from the big boys when we try and slip outside, just for a minute. Tell me your experience or opinion of the slightly out-of-the-box Chaîne dinner at Gourmet Garage last March? That was amazing. Again, a perfect example of the detail that goes in. You cannot imagine what it must have been like behind the scenes, but then they pulled off this amaz-
Oral Pleasures
ing night that ebbed and flowed around Gourmet Garage, as if it was normal for all these beautiful people to be sitting in the isles looking at different types of cereals… thinking, shall I go for this or that? Then into the cold room with the biggest container of caviar and shots of vodka. There were all these world-class chefs doing their thing. What can I say? It was a night to remember.
Heinz von Holzen What is your profession and job title? I am a cook by training. I started to cook in 1975. Why did you join the Chaîne? For the interesting and exciting dinners. Great settings, great food and drinks, and foremost, great people. Have you ever slaughtered an animal? Many thousands. We actually own a poultry processing plant where we process about 3,000 chickens daily in a most humane way. Do you think that meat eaters should slaughter at least one animal in their lifetimes? No need to do so. Better leave it to the professionals. The first animal you ever roasted?
I guess a chicken, or possibly some sort of large worm, which we thought where snakes as children! Whenever we trapped one, we roasted it over an open fire.
Michael Burchett Hello. Firstly, what is your profession and job title? I am General Manager, Conrad Bali. And Vice Conseiller Gastronomique de Bali – Chaîne des Rôtisseurs – Bali. Why did you join the Chaîne? I have been a member since 1989 when I was General Manager of Mayfair Regent Chicago. The membership in Chicago was a broad mix of professional and non-professionals, and the focus on unique and exceptional dining experiences was a primary interest, along with the opportunity to socialise with a very interesting group of people. When I moved to Bali in 1992 to open the Four Seasons, the Chaîne was active, and then when I moved to Jakarta in 1994 to open The Regent (now Four Seasons), the Chaîne was re-establishing itself with an active committee, which I was invited to join, headed by Firdaus Siddik, currently Bailli Delegue for Indonesia. During the three years I was in Jakarta we had some exceptional events and estab-
lished the Chaîne as a premier dining organisation. Upon returning to Bali in 2003 to open the Conrad, I became active once again at a committee level, and our F&B Team at The Conrad took on the challenge of hosting several Chaîne events. As a professional member and a host for events, I see the Chaîne as an opportunity to challenge our culinary and service teams, and to establish Conrad as an establishment that focuses attention on quality. Why do think that women are allowed to be members, considering that it is a confrérie (brotherhood)? Membership is open to all; the only qualifying factor is an interest in dining. Happily, Chaîne Bali have many women members; thank goodness, otherwise it would be very boring sitting with a bunch of guys dressed up with no socialising other than discussions about golf and football. Does the Chaîne boast any famous members, or is it a hush-hush society? All our members are ‘infamous’, I mean ‘famous’! There is nothing hush-hush about being a member of the Chaîne. It is an international organisation that also allows members from Bali to enjoy some wonderful international events while travelling. Certainly, overseas there are many
royal and senior government members, along with a number of high profile individuals; one of the benefits of the Chaîne is the camaraderie that exists in our own club, and the links internationally with other clubs.
Yanie Mason Yanie, what is your profession and job title? I’ve been involved in the tourism industry for the last 30 years. My title now is President Director at Bali Adventure Tours. Why did you join the Chaîne? I joined because of Tina Shazell, who explained to me what it’s all about. It seemed a great idea, since I enjoy the fine dining and meeting people with the same interests. Which sort of events do you prefer – casual or black tie and why? To be honest, as we live in Bali, I prefer casual because of the atmosphere as an Island resort. Of course, every now and then it is good to get dressed up for a black tie event. Of all the events you have been to in the last year, which one stands out as a highlight? Gourmet Garage. It was fantastic.
Constant Wining
WHEN my editor suggested I write an article about Sangria I was suddenly lost for words, not something that happens to me very often. ‘Weave some magic’ were his words. Ok, shouldn’t be too difficult I thought – and then I started reminiscing on all the times in my vast lifetime that I’ve indulged in this iconic Spanish punch. Unfortunately, I can’t remember any stories and perhaps therein lies the so-called magic. In the moment, a wondrous ambrosia and in the morning more like ‘what on earth did I do last night and to whom?’ What I can remember is the enjoyment of making Sangria, from the selection and chopping of the fruit to what wine, spirit and spritzer would be the best. A jollier summer concoction is hard to imagine – Sangria is the true party-pleaser. So how did it come about and why has it remained so popular? Sangria has been made for hundreds of years in Spain and possibly came about from a desire to find a way to consume less than fabulous table wine. Sangria is the Spanish word for bleeding and gets its name from its traditional red colour. Basically, seasonal fruit is added to – nowadays – a good quality wine and spirit base, generally brandy, and left to macerate for an hour or two or put in the refrigerator overnight. A spritzer or fruit juice is then added and, hey presto, you’ve got yourself a punch that has no hesitation in delivering…the punch. Any young red wine can be used or, for a bit of a change, white (Sangria Blanco) or sparkling wine. As the dominant ingredient in Sangria is wine, it’s imperative to use a good quality one and, for tradition’s sake, if you can find a Spanish Rioja or Verdejo (white wine related to Verdelho) all the better. In fact, for the best result, all the ingredients should be of the highest quality including the fruit – there’s no joy in a bruised piece of apple or banana hitting the palate. Sangria is often served in one-litre pitchers with a strainer on the lid to strain out ice and fruit, keeping them in the pitcher and out of the glass. However, if no pitcher is at hand there’s nothing like a good old punch bowl, or salad bowl for that matter. As wine can become vinegar rather quickly once exposed to air, and fruit can
get mushy and fall apart unless you keep it chilled, it’s really in your best interest to keep your Sangria in the fridge at all times – and use ice cubes when it’s out on the table. There are now a zillion recipes for Sangria online, using anything from its traditional red wine to white (Sangria Blanco) and sparkling wines. From its humble beginnings, Sangria has had many a new incarnation and the 2008 facelift has got to be experienced to believe. Some of the most talked about bars in the most exotic settings in the world have put their deft touch to this most summery of drops. Including Bali’s very own Ku De Ta, where I was recently invited to imbibe the new-on-the-menu Sangrias – a red and a white. Unfortunately for all of us the recipe for these magic potions remains a tightly guarded secret. However, I can tell you that both varieties are completely divine and truly hit the spot on a hot day or night. There’s definitely Triple Sec and Cognac in the blend with a light soda spritz and gazillions of fresh fruit including a natty apple juice cum peel ice bomb to keep the whole shebang chilled throughout the imbibing
process. Made in a glass jug and brimming with gorgeousness, you’ll just have to get down to Ku De Ta and try for yourself. If, however, you’re unfortunate enough to be reading this outside of Bali, here’s one of my recipes to commiserate. Berry Nice Sangria 1/4 cup orange flavored liqueur (Triple Sec or Grand Marnier) 1/4 cup Cognac 12 strawberries, sliced 1 cup raspberries 1 sliced orange ¾ bottle Spanish red wine 1 stick of cinnamon 1 can Sprite Few twigs of mint Combine liqueurs, fruit, cinnamon and mint in the bottom of a one-litre glass jug and chill for an hour or two. Fill pitcher with wine and add Sprite to taste. Add loads of ice and serve immediately. And all the very best for morning after. Wine On. Katrina Valkenburg is a wine consultant and editor. All correspondence to katrinav@mac.com.
Supervillas
We sought out three villas with no-limits luxury – and we refused to pay anything less than $5,000 a night.
This page and right: Ayana Villa, The Ritz-Carlton Bali, Resort & Spa.
Supervillas
Ayana Villa The Ritz-Carlton Bali, Resort & Spa Price Tag: $8,000 per night. The Ritz-Carlton Bali, Resort & Spa’s latest offering to an already crowded selection of exclusive places to stay in Bali is the Ayana Villa. Positioned to be “in a class of its own”, this spectacular, clifftop three-bedroom villa overlooks Jimbaran Bay (and quite a lot more), and offers absolute sanctuary and serenity from the outside world. But then what else would we expect from a villa that charges the equivalent of a small car for
a single evening’s indulgence? The Ritz isn’t worried about the price. “This villa was designed and developed specifically in response to our guests’ requests for such a facility,” says David Wilson, General Manager. “Celebrities, royalty, heads-of-state and various other guests who require a high level of security, especially appreciate the villa’s unique location amongst the Jimbaran cliffs, overseeing not only spectacular views, but also offering maximum privacy and security.” The luxurious Ayana Villa, named after a ‘place of refuge’ in Sanskrit, occupies 3,000 square metres of landscaped gardens in a quiet corner of the resort, with stunning cliff-top views on the
island. The private driveway leading to the 420-square meter villa brings you to an illuminated, terraced water feature reminiscent of Bali’s famed rice fields, with fountains that gently flow towards the carved Balinese doors leading into the property. With its spacious grounds and stunning sunset views, Ayana also makes a magnificent entertainment area for up to 280 guests. A traditional Indonesian gazebo perched above the cliffs makes an enchanting and intimate wedding location for couples to exchange vows against the magical backdrop of the Indian Ocean. There’s also a separate building that houses a double massage room,
steam shower and private gym, complete with treadmill and free weights. Butlers and personal chefs and a host of other minions are also on call, 24-hours. The plasma TV is a ludicrous (but wonderful) 60 inches, there’s an ironwood bar stocked with Champers, vintage wines (including private reserve labels) Cuban cigars and herbal teas. The wooden, sauna-like shower room can accommodate eight of your friends, the toilets are Tokyo-tech and the dining table is made from a 400-year-old piece of jackfruit wood. In short, this is a mansion. With a capital M for Money. www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Bali The Private Residences Four Seasons @ Jimbaran Bay Price tag: $5,000 per night ++
At the Four Seasons Resort down the road, you can have an ocean-front, fourbedroom private residence for a measly $5,000 a night. Designed by architect Cheong Yew Kuan, these nine elegant, spacious estates offer the Four Seasons’ version of world-class, ultimate luxury. Who takes such a high-end holiday, we wondered? “Mostly low key celebrities,” we were told, “scions of the rich, many different types, actually.” And it’s not just for the one night, either. It’s not unusual for guests to stay at the Estates for two weeks, with all the trimmings.
Each of the Four Seasons estates enjoys utmost privacy (duh), screened from the outside world by a Balinese wall, lush vegetation and mature trees with access from the private driveway to an entrance courtyard. Each has a two-storey thatched roof pavilion with soaring ceilings in the open-air living and dining areas, and a sunken lounge on the first level. Adjacent to the living area is an airconditioned library and den with Bose audio visual. The second-floor, air-conditioned master suite has a canopied bed, oversized indoor soaking tub, separate shower and an outdoor Jacuzzi. Additional bedrooms overlook a large pool
and manicured gardens with their own bathroom and an outdoor shower. Interiors were designed by Indonesia’s renowned Jaya Ibrahim with oversized, comfortable and elegant furnishings in indigenous richly-textured fabrics providing an idyllic ambiance. All the latest technology for satellite television, stereos, communications and lighting have been combined with world-acclaimed service standards to create a picture perfect vacation setting for anyone who seeks for the best – or at least the most expensive – that Bali has to offer. www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay
Como Shambhala Estate At Begawan Giri Uma Bona Residence Price Tag: Undisclosed The view at the Como Shambhala Estate at Begawan Giri, further down the Ayung valley is world heritage in itself. Opt if you wish for the Uma Bona residence, a palatial pad and richly carved, this residence comprises four suites and sleeps 10. The Royal Suite has two master bedrooms, its own dining room, open-air living area and an evening room. Inside it houses an eclectic mix of carpets from Shin Jeng province as well as Russian kilims. The furniture is primarily antique with cabinets from Palembang, in South Sumatra and the regal inspiration leads on to teak chests, bound in brass, Thai water jars from Ayuthuya,
Supervillas
bronzeware from Java and a collection of Ming plates. Javanese chests have been reproduced from the original in the owners’ collection that were in the Kraton in Jogyakarta. The Master bedroom has a canopied four-poster bed, specially designed and made in Java. It sits comfortably alongside a large colonial Dutch cupboard, from long forgotten colonial eras in Surabaya. The loos and basins in the Masters are antique Victorian fittings from Bath in England, complete with high-level cisterns and brass or copper downpipes. The bathroom is over 68 square metres, with a sunken canopied bath, with its own Jacuzzi on the adjacent private deck. From the bathroom, enter the internal private swimming pool. Terracotta Majapahit figures welcome you. The inspiration for the wall carvings came from the Indian temples at Khajuraho, in India. On, and there’s a wood-fired pizza oven, too. www.cse.comoshambhala.bz
Top: The Uma Bona Residence at Como Shambhala. This photo and left: The Private Residences, Four Seasons Resorts @Jimbaran Bay.
Cheap Thrills
By Thomas Jones
Time to get savvy with these inexpensive boutique layover options – all done in the best possible taste, of course. And all within striking distance of Seminyak.
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Cheap Thrills
CASA INDIGO WHEN you see the layered glass sign on the side of the road reading ‘Casa Indigo’, you know there is going to be something special on the inside. The entrance lobby is large, clean and classy and is a great introduction to what lies beyond. There is a small and funky restaurant near the entrance serving breakfast and lunch; cute concrete mushroom-like seating and umbrellas on the ample lawn, an interestingly long 50 by three-metre pool, a poolside bar in polished concrete and designer metal sculptures adorning the walls. Casa Indigo offers 20 rooms including four twins and four interconnecting, making it great for families and a steal at only Rp400,000 a night with breakfast and airport
pick up. There is also a fully self-contained two-bedroom villa with kitchen and pool for $125 a night and a strict ‘no-smoking-inthe-rooms’ policy in place, which is almost unheard of at this end of the spectrum. The design is young and funky, modern and functional and aimed at both foreign tourists and hip young Indonesians, and it is great value for money. A great Petitenget location perfect for all ages, with close proximity to the beach, Oberoi restaurants, Seminyak shopping and more importantly, no traffic jams! Yak Map ref: F3 Tel: 847-5470, Fax: 847-5469 Email: casaindigo@dps.centrin.net.id. www.casaindigobali.com
Cheap Thrills
VILLA CANTHY SWITZERLAND can be a cold and unforgiving place, so when the Swiss owners of Villa Canthy came to Bali they wanted a place where they could spend as much time as possible outdoors enjoying the tropical heat and soaking up the sun. After two years of searching, they finally found the place they were looking for, a sophisticated new stand-alone, two-bedroom, air-conditioned villa in Seminyak, close to all amenities but far enough away to be quiet and secluded. It is very private, bathed in sunshine, and close to the beach with only the sound of the occasional scooter buzzing by to disturb the peace. Villa Canthy can be rented as a one or two-bedroom villa and the prices vary between $200 to $300, depending on the season. Villa Canthy is open plan in a modern Asian style with all the bells and whistles of a classical Bali holiday: teak wood, large swimming pool, stone floors, fountains, lush tropical gardens, outdoor showers and baths. The upstairs bedroom has twin beds, perfect for kids. In the master bedroom downstairs there are huge doors that open up to the outside where you can start your day by jumping straight out of bed and into the pool. This is indoor-outdoor living at its best. Tel: 8078792 Contact Albert directly on alheur@aol.com
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Cheap Thrills
VILLA KARISA VILLA Karisa is fun and relaxed, and evolved from a private house into an exotic bed and breakfast where people can mingle, meet others and generally enjoy themselves in a great social atmosphere of guests and friends. Isabella, the owner, doesn’t do minimalism and Villa Karisa retains the Bali feeling with loads of comfort thrown in. There’s a massive high-ceilinged communal dining, lounge and kitchen area with tables, a TV zone and large and chunky blue-cushioned sofas where guests can meet and chat in a groovy and friendly place that feels so like home that you never have to leave the house. And actually, some never do. At the front is a self-contained twobedroom villa with a private pool and in the very back, a joglo, housing a two-bedroom
suite. In between, just past the living room, there are nine one and two-bedroom suites, all joined by a covered veranda, some with adjoining doors for families, set alongside a large lawn with outdoor tables, a lush garden, frangipani trees and a large communal pool. The kitchen staff have been trained by a French chef and there is even a little joglo selling everything from SPF to condoms. This is no backpacker’s scene, however, just the right kind of crowd of people between the ages of 30-45 who love life and love Bali. Prices range from 50 euro for a one-bedroom stay, 80 euro for a two-bedroom suite and up to 135 euro for the twobedroom villa. Tel: 744-5538 Email: villakarisabali@yahoo.com www.villakarisabali.com 95
Cheap Thrills
OALLAS VILLA JUST out from Seminyak in the peaceful wilds of Umalas is Oallas Villa, a recently renovated six-suite hotel adjoining a slowmoving river and surrounded by trees and the tranquil sounds of birds and insects. Out in the land of rice fields, it is a sanctuary for those who really want to get away from it all but still need to be close to their fix of pleasure. Oallas Villa comprises two doublestorey buildings separated by a large and beautiful communal swimming pool in tile and batu alam stone. Each building houses three self-contained suites, some with basic kitchen facilities and some with the full deal. All have balconies or verandas with garden or river views, perfect for chilling out and taking in the sounds of nature. 96
However, by far the best rooms are the firstfloor river view rooms where the existing tall mango trees have been incorporated into the design and are growing through the floor, bringing shade and a definite touch of the wow factor to your breakfast table. And in another nod to the decadent, the two downstairs, river-facing suites have large black granite bathtubs just crying out for a Champagne soak. Prices range from $115 to $135, inclusive of tax, depending on the proximity to the river. They offer a big discount for stays of over seven nights. It’s definitely worth checking out. Tel: 738-694 Email: oallas@oallasvilla.com www.oallasvilla.com
Duoview
How and where did you two meet? B: We met almost 16 years ago in Brussels. I had been asking her to become my wife for 10 years. She finally accepted, or gave up, I don’t know which one I should say, six years ago. Z: Of course, same place, same time. It was love at first sight. Who wears the trousers? B: I let her believe she wears the trousers… Z: I let him believe he wears the trousers. Who is the creative one in the partnership? Z: We are both creative in a different manner. We complement each other. In interior decoration, I like baroque and opulence. Blaise designs more minimalist furniture with slick designs. He also thinks in terms of comfort and usability. B: Zohra is known to be creative through her work at Shahinaz Collection but also as an interior decorator through several projects. My father had an advertising agency in Belgium. I spent my childhood on studio sets and studied computer graphics. Today, I regularly design furniture collections and my hobby is travel photography. I could never do what Zohra does as an interior decorator but I think I have developed an eye for beautiful things, and I love architecture. In a way, I think we are complimentary. Maybe I am more into volumes and architecture and Zohra is more into details, colours, decoration. I think architecture, furniture design is more masculine, and interior decoration, colour matching is more feminine. Did you know that only men are colourblind? Er, no! We didn’t know that. Can we ask, when were you most proud of each other? Z: When he became my husband. But more seriously, by his undying determination to accomplish his goals. B: I am very proud of my wife for so many reasons. First of all, she is a very hard worker. Talent is useless if you don’t put in the work. I am also proud of her integrity. At least, with Zohra, you always know what she thinks. She could not be a very good diplomat as she refuses to lie, even to be just polite or sociable. But in the end, I have learnt to appreciate this quality. I hate people who always look as if they care so much and actually don’t give a sh…
The most challenging moment of your partnership? Z: When we tried to have the same role on the same project. Now, we have very different roles and we complete each other business wise. B: I use to try to intervene in Zohra’s projects. I guess I did not understand where this was leading to. I was wrong. You cannot tell someone who creates what to do. It took me time to understand that I should not intervene during the process. My interventions were only corrupting her work. The swords are drawn who, what or how do you defuse the situation? Z: (Laughs) I am very touchy and therefore I have more resentment. B: I cannot go to bed before we settle. Right or wrong. The dream you have in common? Z: Ending our days together with our future grand children around us. B: Having a Riad in Morocco. I love the architecture of those old Riad. Riad means garden in Arabic. Those houses are basically built around the garden. What elements in each of your characters balance the other? Z: I limit Blaise in his excess…Blaise, on the other hand, opens my eyes when I am overwhelmed by my emotions. B: I don’t know if our characters balance. They actually make quite a lot of sparks. But I prefer sparks than a dull relationship. Business wise, name some projects that you have done in Bali. Z: Our first project we did together was Villa Balquisse. But in every project I have done in Bali, Blaise has intervened at some stage, even if we did not officially make them together. B: The only real project we did together was The Shaba. The projects Zohra does, I only help her, assist her. I cannot say that we do the project together. When she needs me, I am always there. Of course, she uses regularly my furniture in her projects but I am merely a supplier. Zohra helps me a lot on a daily basis in my business by giving me advice regarding soft furnishing, colour combinations… What is next for you two, business-wise and as a couple? Z: We have so many projects, so many things
we want to do as a couple and as business partners. But the next project is certainly building a new villa for ourselves. B: As a couple, we are going to build a new villa. Something totally different from what we have done before. Repeating yourself is easy but uninteresting. Zohra has already some great ideas. You’re having a 14 pax dinner party and your cook hasn’t turn up who would be able to pull it together? Z: I do all the decoration, set the table and leave the cooking to Blaise. B: I cook. I love cooking. You should always give the best to your guests and the best I can give is my time. I will be 40 in a couple of months, and that makes me realise that time is the most precious thing I have (beside my family and my health, but I cannot give those). There are so many things I want to do, time is running out. If you had to do one thing over again what would it be? Z: My studies…I am a self-taught person. I would have loved to study. B: Before I answer for myself, I think people who studied have trouble thinking outside of the box. A good or a bad thing, selftaught people always think outside of the box. If they are successful, you will find out that they are more creative because they don’t have a ready made answer to their problem. So they need to do some thinking first. Now, my turn, I am happy with my life. I know it sounds stupid to say that. You need to make mistakes when you are young to become wise. Nothing is negative as long as you learn from your mistakes. I learn everyday. For instance, some people are not happy with their wife, so they get a new one. When the grace period is over, it is back to a normal life, which often means it is boring. Since the beginning of a new affair is always nice, they always repeat the beginning. Today I spend the same energy to try to make my wife happy as any other man trying to conquer or seduce a new wife. If their marriage sucks, it is because they don’t try to make their wife happy but once the wife is gone, they spend a lot of energy to get a new one. Basically, I am not a quitter. I just try to improve existing things, either business wise or as a couple.
Duoview
Blaise and Zohra Samoy are the creative partnership behind interior design outfit Haveli, furniture manufacturers Hishem, villas The Shaba, Balquisse and others ‌ Sophie Digby found out what makes them tick.
Artsake
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Artsake
French artist Veronique Aonzo excites with a contemporary and complex visual style. Lou Nietunz caught up with the woman and her work. Did you have an interest in visual arts from an early age? From your family or school? VA: I was a single child. I was always gluing something together. From the leaves in the garden to old toys in the garage or family photos and letters. Maybe I was already influenced by Nick St. Phalle! I still keep gluing today. Did you find it intimidating or inspiring to grow up in such artistically rich parts of the world as Southern France and Italy? Inspiring, of course. On my way to school every day, I would pass the Chapelle Matisse, his house, Picasso’s studio, Renoir’s villa, Armand and Cesar sculptures. My favourite restaurant even now is La Colombe d’Or in St. Paul de Vence. Fantastic. You can’t be indifferent to the special light in southern France. I need to go back there regularly. Did you explore other fields of work before deciding to choose the path of a painter? Who are your strongest influences? I had always been une touché a tout. I tried many paths in life, from taking a lawyer’s degree to being a photography agent…but I suppose that in the end I gave myself freedom from boredom. Life sometimes takes you away from your real inspirations, just to make you understand who you are. Oh dear, I am getting a little dull! How and when did you find yourself first
arriving in Bali? Was it love at first sight? I have to confess, that the ‘love at first sight’, wasn’t for Bali, but for the man I am still living with now. I am sure Bali is part of my love story, but that wasn’t the reason that made me stay. How do you find that life in Bali affects your work and train of thought? Compared to before? I don’t like to give a definition to the word ‘artist’ but if there’s one thing we have in common, it’s the faculty to look at things differently and translate that vision. Of course, the special place that is Bali transforms my work. I want to use the word intensity, but not sure if that has the same significance as in French. Do you generally like to work in solitude or do you connect and discuss with other artists? This answer is going to make my few friends laugh. Without hesitation, I love to work in solitude. How would you say your most recent works differ from previous themes and methods? What is the concept? My technique is still the same, as when I started showing works at Ku De Ta. I suppose this is what makes my style. Calvin Klein once said, “never change what you are good at – repetition is reputation.” I like that. So this is what I do. I am obsessed by some themes like love, peace, religions, female complexities…so I find my way to ex-
press them and…voila! Do you usually work on one canvas at a time, or several? I start a minimum of five canvases at a time because I like to tell stories. What would you say is the most important lesson or discovery you have learned through your work? Somebody said: “We can do no great things, only small things with great love.” And: “ Work without love is slavery.” What are your hopes and aspirations for future exhibitions or works? To contradict what I said before, I am going to work in collaboration with a very talented friend of mine, Elissa Coleman. We are going to do some shows in Perth, with the theme being Art is Fashion. Fashion is Art. Should be fun. Very new for me, because I have to come out of my shell. And maybe something very exciting in LA, but shhh! With all of the exposure through and from multimedia these days, do you find yourself embracing or rejecting the use of digital and electronic media in your work? That’s a technical one, but yes, I do work a lot with the computer. Do you think Bali is moving in the right direction? I don’t think I have the ability to answer that question. Bali is Bali, and I hope will always be Bali. Within Bali, some people are moving in the right direction and some are not. www.artitude69.com
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Dwelling On a Dwelling
Ross Peat turned a Bali rental home into a vision of space and light‌all on 4.5 are. By Sophie Digby.
Dwelling On a Dwelling
Ross, what brought you to Bali? Around 25 years in the corporate world is enough for anyone really and the thought of living on a tropical island didn’t make the decision to move here difficult at all! And Petitenget? When I moved to Petitenget it was just far enough out to be in amongst the rice fields and still close enough to enjoy the nightlife down in Legian and Seminyak, so it just seemed like the best place to be. Now it looks like the nightlife is moving up this direction, but fortunately the house is down a nice quiet one-way gang and thankfully there is no noise from the increasing traffic. Where did you live before here? My life couldn’t have been more opposite if I tried. I lived in a large roof top apartment in the heart of Melbourne with views as far as the eye could see in all directions. It was a wonderful place to live but as soon as you caught that elevator down to street level, leaving your sanctuary behind, you were thrust into the never-ending rat race of the city. I don’t miss it. How big is this place exactly? It’s as big as I want it to be. In reality it is around 4.5 are of land with about 200 square meters of house. Small by today’s standards
but with a surprising feeling of space. Who was in charge of the metamorphosis from Bali buleh rental home to spacious fabulousity? I have to take the blame for this, you know. I just couldn’t relax in the house in its original state and your home really is a reflection of who you are. All I wanted was a few small pleasures in life, not too many. But I must admit I do like hot running water, larger living spaces and air-conditioning for those nights when it just becomes impossible to relax with the humidity. What did you do to it and how much did it cost? Well, this has been a transformation over time, as you never really know what your living needs are until you actually live in a space, so it has taken a while to get to this. I’m very happy with the changes so far. I decided there should be two stages to make this the home I wanted. As I’m sure we all know, it is one of the most difficult experiences to go through in life when your home becomes a building site. I decided to take a break before stage two commenced to simply get over stage one. For the cost, it’s difficult to apply a monetary value, but I can tell you it is well worth it when com-
pared to other places around the world. It’s almost embarrassingly inexpensive. How many toupé palm trees does your garden grow? There are nine of these all standing in a row like guards looking down on the house. There are a few others standing casually around as if to take time out! I set aside part of the garden to be fully structured – which I guess is reminiscent of the corporate life I left behind – and then there is the area of the garden that is free flowing and somewhat disorganised, which is a part of island life that just feels right. Is your bar way over my eye-level on purpose (a tad over one and a half metres)? I never actually thought of this as a bar but rather a room divider. With the small space available and the necessity for a kitchen, the high bar/divider actually works very well, albeit for the taller variety. Not a bad idea. Sophie, maybe I should turn it into a bar! What’s the maximum number of people you’ve had at a cocktail party? I did have a party here recently for a certain birthday that I won’t mention and I do believe there was in excess of 60 people. With all the living space the house has and the area around the pool that is off the main liv-
Dwelling On a Dwelling
Ross Peat.
ing area, there was plenty of space for people to lounge around and not feel crowded. I can even remember one end of the living space transforming itself into a dance floor with plenty of room to enjoy a good tune or two. What side of the bed do you sleep on? It’s not the side of the bed I sleep on that worries me; it’s the side of the bed I get out of. Hopefully it’s the right side and today feels like it was. Your bathroom – what do you like about it, what do you hate? The bathroom is one of my favourite spaces in the house; I wanted to give it a masculine feel by using black and white stone with a touch of whitewashed timber. I think I have achieved this by also keeping it very simple. In the shower there are no visible taps, showerheads or drains, the toilet is separated from the shower by a frameless sheet of glass that reaches from floor to ceiling – it all adds to the feel of an empty but clean space. Total renovation. Is there anything that is still left from the original house? I think there is a column somewhere in a
part of the lounge room that is left over from the original space. I must have missed it! The major ‘tear your hair out’ moment was… Hello! I think the simple act of renovating says it all. Did you have any design/architectural background before you started? Yes, the main part of my business back home was design and to actually have a passion for what you do for a living is a blessing. To be able to do this here in Bali, where your only restriction is your imagination, is the icing on the cake. Your taste in art, antiques and trinkets is… I like to have original art where possible and I have a few pieces from a few of my favourite artists such as Stephen Hall, Geoffrey Ricardo, Jody Candy and a few others. I also have art from places I have visited to remind me of those places and of course some local artists, which I love. I think it is important to enjoy your art for what it is, rather than what it is worth and to re-hang and change these pieces occasionally is es-
sential. I love Japanese antiques and have quite a few pieces of furniture back in Australia. I decided not to bring those here as they are very old and I didn’t want to take any chances with them. I do miss them. Trinkets would be things I have inherited from family, old coach clocks, silverware, art, etc. I actually have an original Napoleon Cavalier Clock that dates back to the time of Napoleon; this would have to be my favourite piece as my Grandmother bought this in London from an antique dealer when she was a young woman in the very early part of the last century. God…am I that old? I can’t be that old. What is your pet hate in Bali design today? I actually don’t have a pet hate. Bali is a designers’ paradise and most of the design work done here is a perception of what a client wants. On occasion, you get the opportunity to present your own vision of what you believe is outstanding design. And what about the wider world? Have you worked on any other projects? I have worked on many projects here in Bali over time; they range from small additions
through to a hotel I designed on the Bukit. I must admit my favourite design work is the larger style villas, where I get to do everything from the design of the building through to the landscaping, lighting and interiors. This way you can produce the entire look you’re after and there is no compromise to your design. Name three properties on Bali that you like... My place, my place and my place. If you had to live anywhere else on Bali where would it be? I would have to say on the ridge area around Munuk where the views across the rice paddies to Java are breathtaking and the air is crisp and clean. Your dream home – what would you build? Anything that would take in the view and provide comfort and privacy, but my personal taste is to contemporise a shape with a Frank Lloyd Wright twist. Thank you Ross, now can I go for a swim? You’re more than welcome honey, be sure to dive in at the deep end though!
Venting In A Villa
Cicada will make your friends love you. And if not, you can always spend the whole day bathing. The responsibility of recommending a place for friends to stay in Bali can be gargantuan. It is even more so when those friends happen to manage international five star and boutique hotels; the accountability thereof can make or break one’s reputation‌suicide or success. Given the choice, success is the only way to go, so Cicada is the only place to stay. Elegant townhouses in seminal Seminyak, exclusively designed by Dean Kempnich (my favourite ecologically-conscious contemporary architect) for people who
look for style, design, elegance and comfort and who are tired of sharing open-air living space with numerous four-footed, rafterliving creatures. Depending on whether it is breakfast for four, or cocktails for 34, Cicada has one bedroom, two-bedroom, Executive Junior Suites and three-bedroom townhouses. Cutting edge one and two storey urban design features, either with plunge pool or pool, but all with tropical palms, verdant gardenettes, spacious indoor-outdoor bathrooms and sun decks.
The interiors boast an intelligent airflow system that maintains a pleasant coolness throughout the open-plan dining, sitting and kitchen area. The kitchen is well planned, with none of the less-than-attractive, modern day apparatus on display, all thoughtfully placed behind closed doors yet with easy access. Dining is for six or eight and the ample sitting area seats a good 10 people comfortably. Yes, at Cicada, entertaining is a definite must, especially considering that an onsite state-of-the-art commercial kitchen is
teeming with butlers ready to provide you with fabulous in-house epicurean delights. And this is what makes this enclave stand out from the growing number of luxury hardscapes that now dot the island – the impeccable service. Polite, efficient, friendly yet relaxed and totally in tune with our needs (they used to be our wishes but we of the new ‘affluenza’ generation need what we desire). Another plus on the must-have inventory is a fabulous bedroom with a bed that is so comfortable, getting up is a challenge in itself – not
to mention a bathroom in which we are torn between the wish to take a bath or a shower and end up taking both and spending almost half a day luxuriating in ablution heaven. Then of course there is the location – a two-minute amble to Petitenget Beach and a number of high-end restaurants or reasonably priced bistros. So, as far as Cicada being a good recommendation, I have not only managed to save my reputation, I think I have raised it to new heights. Yak map ref: C6 wwwcicada-seminyak.com
Yak Fashion
Yak Fashion
summertime, and the livin' is easy, fish are jumpin', and the cotton is high, your daddy's rich, and your mama's good looking, so, hush, little baby, don't you cry...
Yak Fashion
Yak Fashion
Yak Fashion
Yak Fashion
Yak Fashion
Yak Fashion
Photgrapher: Vincent Sung, Visual Sponge Stylist: Marie Weiss Hair & Make-up: Claire Jonson, Manik Salon Shot on location at Karma Kandara, Bali Models: Ally & Aisha, Bali Starz Productions Page 108: Hat, Kerry Grima; Shoes, Lilla Lane; Dress, Kerry Grima; Page 109: Hat, Kerry Grima; Shorts, Body&Soul; Top, Paul Ropp; Page 110: Bikini, Body&Soul; Shirt and Pants, M. Harcourt; Earings, Libido; Bracelet, Nagicia; Bag, Sabbatha; Page 111: Bikini, Body&Soul; Dress, Kerry Grima; Page 112: Dress, M.Harcourt; Jewels by Jemme; Page: 113: Dress, M. Harcourt; Necklace, Nagicia; Armband, Nagicia; Page 114: Dress, Paul Ropp; Earrings, Kmo. www.bodyandsoulclothing.com www.kerrygrima.com www.kmojewel.com www.lillalane.com www.michel-harcourt.com www.nagicia.com www.paulropp.com www.sabbathabali.com www.stockleys.com See Advertisers' Directory, p 146, for more information.
Members of The Cloth
Sabbatha Rahzuardi brings a bespoke flair to the once humble handbag.
Members of the Cloth
What’s your full name and how old are you? My name is Sabbatha Rahzuardi and I am 31 years old. What do you do? I have been designing fashion accessories for four years now. For the last two years I have been focused on my own brand, ‘Sabbatha’. I was born into a Protestant family on a Sunday morning, so my parents gave me this name. The child who was born on Sabbath’s Day. You grew up in an artistic family, tell us about that. I was born in Jakarta and I grew up in a very Indonesian family that taught me to be a good citizen of this country, with its eclectic cultures and arts, and to be proud to be Indonesian. My father is a caricaturist and graduated from the Arts Academy in Yogyakarta, and from him I have this talent to draw and make my own art. I studied economics at La Sorbonne IX Dauphine in Paris, but while I was there I also studied interior design. Kind of an evening course. After two years, I realised it was mad to attempt two different, major disciplines. Too much homework. During the day I was trying to fulfill my economic studies, and in the evening go to this interior design course with loads of drawing. So in the end I completed the economics studies and left the design course behind, although it stayed with me as an important experience, one that is a big factor in my success today as a designer of fashion accessories. Which designers have influenced you the most? I like to see what other designers are doing but honestly I have no particular idol. I admire any artist who can create amazing work. I have a lot of respect for the art of our first president, Mr Sukarno, the painter Affandi and Jean-Michel Baskia. Living in Paris influenced me a great deal. Do you only work with expensive materials, or is there still merit in the plastic
arts? Indonesia is rich in so many things, including natural materials, and I try to highlight and combine these treasures in my designs. Unfortunately they are quite expensive, but I love the reflection from a real gem, or the feel of beautiful leather or a beautiful fabric. My products are often one of a kind – unique pieces of art that last a lifetime. I make designs that appeal to people who love art and beautiful things, so they feel proud to wear or carry them. My first thought when we are talking about plastic is of China. I am not against China, nor against plastic art, but I’d rather highlight my own heritage. What should we wear to best complement your high-end bags? Whatever you like! I don’t say you have to wear certain things to complement my bags or jewelry. But sometimes a bag can replace jewelry, especially if you’re wearing a simple dress and the bag is rich in gems. I like to enjoy my life and love to see that others can also enjoy theirs. I believe self-pride is one of the most important elements in life…an achievement. So I want to offer something that people can be proud of, something that they can naturally create a story around. That’s why I like to design unique pieces. I think it’s nice to feel unique in a good way. Why have handbags become so important (expensive) in fashion? What’s important for me in fashion is that we understand our allure as individuals. Some people might not feel comfortable wearing Sabbatha, for example, but those people who do feel comfortable are the ones who deserve and appreciate the beautiful and unique. Don’t you think so? My bags are expensive, because they are made with first quality leather, they are set with gemstones, not glass or plastic and, last but not least, they last a lifetime. Your designs are bold and beautiful. Would you ever design a ‘minimalist’ bag?
I would say my designs are quite strong in character and in colour combination. The philosophy behind this is first perhaps because I am a man, and I like things strong and dark. I cannot say why it is like this or where is it from. It is something natural that I can only express on my designs. For the time being, I simply cannot create anything minimalist, because it is not in my character to do so. Perhaps in the next five or 10 years, when Sabbatha has evolved a second line, or made a move to the middle-end market, then it’s possible. But not now. Branding is a big part of fashion. Why is it so essential in your line of business, do you think? It is very important now as I think that when we introduce ourselves, we want to be remembered. Same with a brand. When you want to develop an image of your brand on a certain level, then I believe you should know what your position is in the first place. I think for Indonesian fashion, the brand ‘Sabbatha’ has become something of a talking point because it is home grown. Now is the time for me to show everybody who Sabbatha is. I want to make this country proud. What’s next for Sabbatha? I currently have one shop at No. 97 Jl. Raya Seminyak and soon Sabbatha will be available at Duty Free in the International Lounge of Ngurah Rai International Airport. In Jakarta, Sabbatha can be found in d’Designer at Pasaraya. Starting this June, we will open a shop in Grand Indonesia East Mall, Lower Ground floor, competing with the big international labels in fashion. Soon, we will also be available in one of the shopping arcades in Orchard Road, Singapore. So far, I have eight distributors around the world who come to me regularly and purchase in mix quantities to sell in their boutiques. Not bad for a new kid on the block. www.sabbathabali.com
Freestyle Fashion
www.dindarella.com
Freestyle Fashion
www.paulropp.com
Freestyle Fashion
www.sabbathabali.com
Freestyle Fashion
www.bodyandsoulclothing.com
Freestyle Fashion
www.uluwatu.co.id
Freestyle Fashion
Lily Jean Tel: 8475678
Freestyle Fashion
www.lulu-bali.com
Freestyle Fashion
www.puravidafashion.com
Accessories
Look no further than Jemme for jewellery of precious and semi-precious stones set in timeless yet stylishly modern designs. By Patricea Chow-Capodieci STEPPING in to the Jemme jewellery shop, converted from two one-storey shop houses, is akin to stepping into a colonial villa standing back in the 1920s, to a time where romance, beauty and art were freely indulged and encouraged. Light dancing off crystal chandeliers and ornamentation, falling from the inverted V ceiling lined with exposed wooden beams, create bursts of sparkling radiance that bounce off the ivory walls. Breaking the monotony of white on some areas are hand-painted details in muted green, brown and yellow, and embellished with Swarovski crystal. The glitter from the interiors is surpassed only by the shine from the collections of jewellery, presented on glass shelves within custom-designed lemonwash wood display cabinets, finished with subtle art deco and baroque details. The most impressive of the cabinets is fashioned like a bird cage, and stands in the centre of the main room.
Fifteen years of experience in the jewellery business around Europe, Asia and Australia has given the owner of Jemme intimate knowledge of what females expect from jewellery: a little bit of every known gem, and then some, set in earrings, rings, pendants, necklaces, chokers, bracelets and brooches. The selection of precious and semi-precious stones used in Jemme creations encompasses diamond, ruby, emerald, aquamarine, Arizonian turquoise, Tahitian pearl, Baltic amber, cubic zirconium, amethyst, tourmaline, sapphire and quartz. The glitter from these rocks is complemented with 18-carat and 22-carat gold, white gold, platinum and rose gold. If the already dazzling array of jewellery does not make Holly Golightly have breakfast at Jemme instead of Tiffany’s, then she will change her mind when she discovers the cosy loft with baroque-style furnishing. Here, two cabinets are dedicated to exhibiting diamond pieces, as well as pieces
that combine diamonds with other precious stones such as various colour sapphires, onyx, citrine, kunzite emerald, blue topaz and green tourmaline. The choices are alluring, but there is no need for hurry in choosing something that is truly yours. Sink in to a velvet-upholstered sofa or one of the two side chairs flanking a table and comfortably go through the selection; otherwise, don the pieces and admire them through a gold-painted mirror stand or through a dainty vintage handheld mirror. You can deliberate for as long as you require over the diamond pieces in this inviting setting, and are also encouraged to select items from other Jemme collections at your leisure. For the people at Jemme believe that buying jewellery should be an unhurried experience that brings the buyer most satisfaction when sufficient time has been taken in choosing the final trinket. The decision can be tough, when you realise that most of the pieces in the shop
are unique in design and limited in quantity. There is only one 18-carat gold necklace chain with a smoky quartz tear-drop pendant; a white gold filigree ring with diamonds is one of two pieces left, and the design of a 22-carat gold ring is repeated five times but each set with a different stone. Jemme also understands that while ladies derive great satisfaction from acquiring jewellery for personal possession, ladies also experience a thrill from purchasing jewellery for others, especially when the receiver is the treasured husband or loving boyfriend. As such, there is a collection for men, comprising plain silver and stainless steel accessories such as rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, cuff links and money clips. Ladies who want to obtain similar trinkets in plain silver or tezer (silver with a satin finish) can select from the display in an adjacent cabinet. Jl. Raya Petitenget 125 Seminyak Tel: 733508 Yak Map: E3
Free Radicals
Theta is far from your run-of-the-mill spa, writes Thomas Jones.
YOU have never experienced a Bali sunset quite like the one I enjoyed last Friday night at Theta spa. Imagine, if you will, the joy of a one-hour deep tissue massage, followed by a liberal smearing of wild Borneo honey, a scrub down with a mix of sesame seeds and oatmeal...and then being cocooned in fresh banana leaves. And then sitting in a rose-petal-filled milk bath watching the planes come in to land at the airport while sipping a holier-thanholy strawberry juice with a skerrick of vodka. You can try, but unless you have done it – and I highly recommend that you do – I don’t think you can. Theta Spa at the Ramada Bintang Hotel in Bali’s Tuban is not your typical spa, and owner Jimmy Akili is quite happy about that. Theta is part of a new breed of spas that are taking the green tea, Gamelan and tofu element away from the traditional seriousness of spa culture and replacing it with fun. “Theta means soul or spiritual being,” says Jimmy, “and while we want to heal the soul, we are not doctors, we are just here to provide fun for people on holiday. Many people haven’t experienced spas before and don’t know what to expect. We want to dispel the myths, eliminate those New Age expectations and create a comfortable place for them to experience a spa. And we want them to come back.” It is safe to say that Jimmy has achieved his objective. Theta is a place of relaxed enjoyment, where guests are free to enjoy cocktails, Champagne and laughter; where it’s not uncommon to see a gaggle of gossiping girls sipping Margaritas during their cream baths, or weary surfers paddling in after a session on the waves for a relaxing foot massage. Theta’s treatments are designed just 128
for Bali, and they have been created by looking back on Indonesia’s own traditions of Chinese, Indian and Indonesian culture, mixing them with modern holistic elements and, most importantly, making them fun and enjoyable. “Our outlook is casual and fun but our approach is deadly serious,” explains Jimmy. “We use imported essential oils from Australia and mix them with only the best ingredients from Indonesia. I source all the products myself: things like chocolate from East Java, honey from Borneo and salt from Amed in Bali’s northeast.” Names like Honey Love, Chocolate Indulgence, Afternoon Coffee Blend and Marine Morning Invigorator jump out of the treatment menu and attack the curiousity, but the reasons for mixing fun and common sense are obvious. Honey has antiseptic agents and is good for sunburnt or troubled skin and the sesame scrub exfoliates and moisturises with essential nutrients. Chocolate is also rich in antioxidants and nourishes the skin while the almond scrub again exfoliates. Chocolate also releases endorphins and is a natural aphrodisiac, “which is probably why it is a very, very popular choice for couples,” chuckles Jimmy. Chinese wisdom dictates that the kidneys and liver function best in the afternoon, so coffee should only be taken after lunch, and salt is best taken in the morning to clear the body of the night’s grime and prepare the skin for the coming day in the sun. Whatever treatment you choose, they are a great start, interruption or finish to the day, not to mention an experience of pure decadence. www.thetaspa.com Tel: 755726
Free Radicals
Over The Edge
Over The Edge
Bangkok’s booming – and it’s a far cry from the city our writer once knew. By Tony Stanton.
Bangkok’s a far cry from my day’s of making hay. I first arrived there in 1987 bearing a backpack and not enough money. It seemed unwholesomely exotic. I stayed at the Malaysia Hotel where the barman wanted to know – after a few bitter Singha beers – if I wanted “girl for jiggyjiggy”. He was graphically enthusiastic in this matter and I was overly coy. It seemed like that was the way things would go on. As I grew in confidence (I was a mere strip of a lad, after all), so did my curiousity. I stretched my wings to take in the, erm, nightlife around Patpong, then just a screaming tuk-tuk ride from just about anywhere you happened to be. The live sex shows were an oddly unerotic experience – not unlike visiting a morgue to stare at a corpse. Altogether quite embarrassing – and easily upstaged by a visit to Bangkok’s excellent zoo. The rest of it was less prosaic, but at least more exciting. There was the food to be relished, the good times to be had over a bottle of Mekong whiskey with a few Thai acquaintances and fellow travellers; the sheer foreignness of it all; the sense that, walking past a shrine with its attendant worshippers, there was something you were missing about life; and the discovery, after a few more days among the Thai people, that yes, in fact, you were. Bangkok today is a very different place indeed, although the food is still great and the people still friendly. Otherwise, I hardly recognised it. This probably had a lot to do with the fact that I stayed, this time – 25 years after my first visit – at the glorious Four Seasons Hotel, with rooms that my three-year-old daughter declared to be “the prettiest she’s ever seen”. I had to agree with her. In fact the city these days reminded more of Singapore than Thailand – certain parts of town now boast the requisite shopping malls and designer brand name shops, the increasingly disparate fast food chains and all the rest of the metropolitan box of magic tricks. There’s even a Skytrain – you’ve no doubt heard of it. No more sitting around in the back of a cab. Unless you actually take a taxi, in which case you’re still very likely to be sitting around in traffic, wondering why the meter doesn’t seem to be working. Plus ca
change. If you are to get around, I would recommend using the Skytrain. Kick off your skytrain trip at the fabulous Chatuchak weekend market at Mo Chit, the northernmost stop on the Sukhumvit Line. It’s a maze of 15,000 stalls, with plants, pets, food, handicrafts and lots of clothes – many wannabe Thai designers start their careers here. You’ll be lost in no time, but don’t worry; that’s half the fun. Catching the cacophony early is best, from about 9.30am, before temperatures rise. Handicrafts are around sections 22-25, and you’ll find fascinating food stalls, with exotic local fruits and spices, in sections six to eight. It’s a short walk to the Skytrain station from here. Flop into the welcoming blast of air-con and get ready for some superb views – the tracks are about level with a fifth-storey window. Sit on the left-hand side and you won’t miss the Victory Monument, a bombastic obelisk commemorating a victory over the French. As you head south, the cityscape grows more shiny and new, with towering hotels and office blocks and, to the left, Bangkok’s tallest building, and briefly the world’s tallest hotel, the 88-storey Baiyoke Sky Hotel. The Skytrain track creeps higher as it approaches Siam Square, the nation’s shopping showcase, and the swish facades and double-height intersection of the two Skytrain lines are downright futuristic. FIRST STOP: Siam Get off at Siam station and leave by exit four to enter the recently opened Siam Paragon (www. siamparagon.co.th). This mammoth mall is every bit as glitzy as those in Singapore or Hong Kong, with Ferrari and Maserati dealerships tucked in-between French Connection, Levi’s and Miss Sixty. Hungry? Good. Bangkok’s street food is tasty and shouldn’t be missed, but it’s fashionable to eat in shopping centres right now, with the big malls competing to offer cheap gourmet-style market favourites for a few dollars. Tuck in here or at the nearby MBK mall. Now walk west along Thanon Rama I, cross the busy Thanon Phrayathai and turn right into Soi Kasemsan 2. At the end of the lane is the Jim Thompson House. Still
Over The Edge
the city’s most famous farang, he was the charismatic OSS (forerunner of the CIA) station chief here for a spell in the 1940s, and later rejuvenated Thailand’s silk-weaving tradition. It’s sumptuous stuff, and you can see the fabrics – and his collection of Asian antiques – to best advantage on a tour of his six traditional Thai teak houses (www.jimthompsonhouse.org). BACK ON BOARD: National Stadium Reboard the Skytrain here, a couple of minutes’ walk from Jim Thompson’s. You want the Silom Line, heading for Saphan Taksin. The train weaves over the traffic on Thanon Rama I and turns south, past the vast lawns and whitewashed grandstand of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and Bangkok’s most pleasant park, Lumphini. Then you veer right at Thanon Rama IV, where the night is given over to a market packed with designer fakes and the city’s most famous fleshpot, Patpong. THE FINISH: Saphan Taksin The Chao Phraya river sees the end of the elevated line, but just underneath the station is the Express Boat pier. This is a contender for a great public-transport route as well, but
that’s for another day. Hop one stop upriver to the Oriental Hotel, once the grandest non-royal building in Bangkok – possibly outmoded, but never outclassed. Take an outside table by the water’s edge, order a cocktail, and watch the hotel courtesy boats switch on their nocturnal silhouettes of white lights. And when you’re done with The Oriental, check out some of these, our Top 10 bars of Bangkok. Enjoy. 1. Sirocco Sky Bar Of the rooftop bars that crown the city, Sirocco’s perch is truly breathtaking. An outdoor staircase seemingly ascends into the heavens and arrives at an open-air deck divided into an outdoor restaurant on one side and the Sky Bar on the other. The oval-shaped bar juts out over the edge of the building with barely a barrier to separate the imbibers from the street some 800ft below. Tel: + 66 (0) 2 624 9555; The Dome at State Tower, 1055 Silom Road. 2. Cheap Charlie’s It is generous to call Cheap Charlie’s a bar, since it doesn’t have a bathroom or a front door. Despite this, it is easy to see its virtues. First, there’s
the seedy setting amid Sukhumvit’s massage parlours. Then there’s the bar itself: just a shack, a few loaves bigger than a bread box. Seating is in the street on bar stools that must be moved should a car need to pass. And finally Cheap Charlie’s delivers on its name, with cheap beers. No telephone; Soi 11, off of Sukhumvit Road. 3. Phra Nakorn Bar No one needs to tell you that Khao San Road is one of Bangkok’s most enduring parties. But within stumbling distance of the famous street is a favourite chill-out spot for Bangkok university students. The bar occupies a four-storey building hosting music or art shows and is topped with a roof terrace overlooking the gleaming hilltop stupa of Wat Saket. Tel: + 66 (0) 2 222 0282; 58/2 Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, off of Ratchadamnoen Road. 4. Water Bar Head out to the outskirts of town and you’ll find the original Thai cocktail at this creatively named bar – though you’ll no doubt be swimming back. Each table orders a “whiskey set”, which includes a bottle of Thai whiskey, Coke, soda water and ice. The waitress
then fills the glasses to the tables’ preference: most accomplished drinkers request two fingers of whisky, a splash of Coke, the rest soda water. A toast is offered up, ice cubes are liberally added and no one leaves thirsty. Tel: + 66 (0) 2 642 7699; 107/3-4 Rangnam Road. 5. Molly Bar It isn’t your fault if you never migrate far off Khao San Road. A portion of the city’s drinking population has battled traffic to get here, so why leave? Over on nearby Rambutri Road is this convivial spot where patrons settle into lowslung wooden armchairs in the outdoor courtyard and enjoy a post-beach afterglow. On the weekends, the colonial-style building is packed with young Thais who come to liquify their hard-earned baht. Live bands work the crowd into a sweaty singalong. No telephone; Rambutri Road. 6. Telephone Old-fashioned telephones, looking more like furniture than handsets, adorn each table at this gay bar. These nifty table accessories are wired to each other and allow patrons to flirt with one another from the comfort of their bar stools. Should the line go dead, head to
Over The Edge
the outdoor patio and watch the honed bodies, she-men and other night creatures. Tel: + 66 (0) 2 234 3279; 114/11-13 Soi 4 off of Silom Road. 7. Tawandaeng A peculiar combination of cosmopolitan provincialism, this barn-like beer hall mixes a menu of German-style beer and sausages with Asian-style stage shows. The huge space is always packed with locals, mostly the middle-aged of the middle class, and the song-and-dance routines are undiluted Thai. Tel: + 66 (0) 2 678 1114; 462/61 Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Road at the corner of Th Phra Ram III. 8. Santika It is hard to keep up with Bangkok’s beautiful people: by the time a popular club gets translated into English, the Benzs and BMWs have made their getaway. But the kingdom’s political uncertainty has kept the rich and famous parked in front of this sprawling club divided into various chambers dedicated to radio rap, live bands or DJs and a chillout terrace. Tel: + 66 (0) 2 711 5886; 235/11 Soi 63/Ekkamai off of Sukhumvit Road. 9. Raintree Pub The arrival of the
London-style lounge catapulted Bangkok into global party circles, but as the new millennium grinds on, these once chic clubs look more like remedies for homesick Brits. Instead, embrace this foreign land at this Thai “country” bar. Decorated with driftwood and buffalo horns, Raintree hosts bands playing “songs for life” classics, a rock protest movement born during the previous (but not most recent) military coup. Tel: + 66 (0) 2 245 7230; 116/63-64 Soi Rangnam, off Phahon Yothin Road. 10. Mandarin Oriental Hotel Every voyage abroad requires a visit to the resident grand dame. In Bangkok, the stately Oriental Hotel occupies this position, having hosted famous steamship travellers to modern jetsetters. The riverside patio is a gracious date for sunset cocktails and the Bamboo Bar mixes a fine combination of colonial romanticism and tinkling ivories. Tel: + 66 (0) 2 659 9000; Soi 38/Oriental, Charoen Krung Road. www.fourseasonshotels.comw www.intercontinental.com
Previous page: left, the InterContinental Bangkok; right, the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok. This page: left, worship at a city shrine; above (and opening pages, The Grand Palace.
Community
With managed teak plantations, writes Michele Cempaka, money really can grow on trees. There’s a benefit for the rainforests, too.
NO one disputes that our rainforests are in serious danger of becoming extinct; certainly no one in Indonesia. Few know how fast this is happening, however: it’s been reported that on average, a single acre of rainforest land, somewhere in the world, is destroyed every second, leaving a barren area where indigenous life is all but obliterated. Strange then that the answer to this destruction could lie in the very material so sought after by the logging companies: tropical hardwood. The issue is not that loggers value hardwood for its steadfast qualities, or that there’s a market for it. The issue is simply how we manage and use this valuable resource. The answer, say people behind an initiative in Bali to create awareness around sustainable, conscientious business practices, is in the farming of teak wood. Teak farming, which began in Indonesia back in the 1800s when the Dutch first seeded large plantations in Java, has become a thriving industry in Bali, although there are no government-sponsored programmes that offer financial and practical support to investors interested in growing managed teak plantations. Sayu Putri, director of local outfit Bali Teak Farms (BTF), started her business managing teak forests almost as a hobby. “We began in 2004,” she says. “I enjoy planting trees and plants, and someone recommended that I plant teak trees, so I bought 50 seedlings and planted them myself on just three are of land. At the end of 2004 I planted an additional 400 trees that are now doing well. Some of them are already about nine meters tall and 25 centimetres in circumference.” 136
There is money in teak, of course. BTF currently offers investors the opportunity to lease five hectares of freehold land in its North Bali Teak Farm Plantation Project for approximately 100,000 euros. Plant 10,000 trees on the land and – based on the current average price for 25-year-old trees – your forest will reap a return (after management fees have been deducted) of 2.5 million euros. No small change. There are other ways to make coin here, too. “One way to enhance the returns on your investment,” says Sayu Putri, “is to buy the land instead of leasing. This is a kind of back-up for investors if the value of teak falls; potentially they can still make a profit from the sale of their land.” It doesn’t have to be all big bucks and superstar profit, however. BTF says its teak plantations are helping the rainforests, and the more managed teak that is used, the less impact there is on the environment. There are currently many gazebo manufacturers in Bali that continue to use illegal wood like Merbau and Ironwood, neither of which are sustainable – given that it takes 100 years for them to grow to 50cm in diameter. Consumers are faced with the difficult task of procuring teak wood, which is sanctioned by the government rather than illegally cultivated and sold from forests not under government regulations. “It’s difficult to tell whether teak trees are illegal or legal,” says Sayu Putri. “One thing people can look out for is whether the cut trees are very long or short. Sometimes shorter cut trees can indicate that the teak is illegal. If farmers have a certification from the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) then the teak is definitely legal. Bali Teak Farms is currently
working on getting certification with FSC.” BTF also offers people the opportunity to own smaller plots of 100 trees for just 30 Euros per tree. For 3,000 Euros, you can sublease 500 square meters of land (five square metres of land per tree), adding additional trees in 50 tree incremental lots up to 1,000 trees. For orders exceeding 1,000 trees and up to 10,000 trees, BTF offers a reduced rate at Euro 25 per tree. Special terms and conditions are offered for purchases of more than 10,000 trees at the BTF North Bali Sustainable Teak Farms. This tree ownership programme is available to both Indonesian nationals and foreigners, allowing even a modest owner to participate in the potentially high investment returns from large teak tree plantations. In particular, it provides the opportunity for a minor investor to be a “tree owner”. The ownership of the trees is secured under the name of the tree owner, so the owner is assured that his or her plot of land and teak trees will not be used by anyone else. “Subleases to both Indonesians and foreigners are allowed under Indonesian law,” says Sayu Putri. “For all contractual, financial and legal issues, BTF is advised by PT P&A International Consulting, an international consulting firm with offices in Bali (www. paconsultingbali.com). We invite anyone interested in our programme to contact this firm for any clarification regarding the ownership of teak trees and/or other programs offered by BTF. For more peace of mind, people can opt to seek out their own legal advice prior to finalizing any tree ownership agreements or any agreements with BTF,” she says.
BTF’s micro management programme includes identifying and securing optimal land sites from as few as five are, leased generally for 20 years. The company will then prepare the soil for planting, with limited clearing work, using only organic and biodynamic fertilisers. Plantations are managed free of charge for the first year, after which owners are asked to pay a yearly management fee starting at Rp15,000 per tree, up to a maximum of 25 years. BTF also offers special management fees for purchases of more than 1,000 trees. In addition, BTF also plants vanilla, coffee, chilli and cacao under the teak trees to provide maximum bio-diversity in planting. The added financial benefit of doing this is that it only takes three years to harvest these crops. Thus, the farmers can earn an income that will sustain their living while they wait for the teak trees to be ready for harvesting. Teak trees are not felled all at once. There is a thinning process that usually occurs at years 10 and 15 with the main harvest at year 20. During these times, a certain number of trees are cut and sold while waiting for the rest to mature. After a large number of trees have been thinned, then more trees are replanted before the final harvest, which takes place at year 20. This allows for the trees to continuously grow and replenish the soil. The last word goes to Sayu Putri. “Given the potential for investment returns,” she says, “together with the benefits for both the environment and the rainforests, it makes a lot of sense for people to grow teak in sustainable plantations, and more and more people are beginning to see this.” www.baliteakfarms.com
Being Green
The term ‘greenwashing’ emerged in the early 1990s to describe the practice of spending significant money advertising being green rather than actually expending resources on environmentally sound practices. Many industries are using greenwashing techniques to sell themselves these days, and the travel industry is no exception. The travel industry is big, big business. But travelers are increasingly aware of environmental issues and have begun to vote with their credit cards. According to a TravelHorizons survey, over half of global consumers prefer to purchase products and services from a company with a strong environmental reputation. Another survey of package tours indicated that travelers were willing to pay more for their holidays if the money went toward better wages and working conditions, preservation of the environment, the reversal of some negative environmental impacts or directly to a local charity. In the same survey, 78 percent of package holiday responders said that providing social and envi138
ronmental information in tour operators’ brochures was important, and 70 percent stated that the environmental reputation of a holiday company on environmental issues was fairly or very important in affecting their choice. Most visitors to Bali are not aware that the majority of hotels, resorts and villas do not recycle or send garbage to the landfill, have no sewage treatment system and do not control the amount of water and electricity (increasingly finite resources) that are consumed on the property. Environmentally savvy tourists, especially Europeans (who are light years ahead of the rest of the world in environmental sustainability), are starting to grill hoteliers and villa managers about waste management and energy efficiency policies. In the past, it was ecolodges and small properties that lured the responsible traveller. Now there’s a shift to the luxury bracket. So it’s tempting for Bali’s hotels and resorts to jump on the green bandwagon and claim to be eco-friendly. How
can the responsible traveller make an informed choice about where to spend his or her holiday cash? Indonesian-owned Alila Hotels and Resorts is an industry leader in the growing trend toward eco-friendly holiday accommodation. Named by Agoda.com as one of the top 10 Green Hotels in Asia, Alila has regularly received Bali’s internationally recognised Tri Hita Karana Award as well as the first Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award. Both Alila Ubud and Alila Manggis attained Green Globe Certification in 2007. I talked to Amanda Pummer, General Manager of Alila Ubud and the dynamo behind the chain’s green mission, about how travelers can discriminate between genuinely sustainable hotels and those that are greenwashing. “Before you make a booking, ask whether the hotel you’re considering is Green Globe certified. If not, ask if the property has an environmental policy and what it is,” Amanda suggests. Bali has fewer than 100 star-rated hotels, of which about a quarter have applied for
or won Green Globe certification, the world’s highest environmental benchmark. “Ask about their laundry policy. For over a decade, fine hotels have given guests the option of not having their linen changed every day. Most of us don’t change our sheets and towels at home every day; opting for that choice at a hotel or villa saves precious water supplies.” Alila offers the guests a menu of green options when booking. How does the hotel or villa treat the water in the swimming pool? Ask where the garbage goes and how the sewage is treated. If you’re not staying at a starrated hotel, chances are the garbage is going down the nearest riverbank and the sewage is being released into the ground or the sea. Reducing the use of plastic is a major goal of responsible hotels. At Alila, drinking water is provided in recycled glass bottles. “If hotels would stop using plastic bottles for drinking water, that alone would have a huge impact on Bali’s solid waste problems,” Amanda
Being Green
It’s really not up to hotels what they do in terms of responsible environmental practices. It’s up to you. Cat McNicol spells out exactly how responsible travellers can force change among green-shy hotels.
stresses. Amenities are another big issue. Travellers are accustomed to seeing all those little plastic bottles of shampoo, conditioner and lotion in the hotel bathroom. “In fact, over-servicing with amenities is old-fashioned,” says Amanda. “Contemporary best practice is to use re-usable containers, and to offer shower caps, toothbrushes and other non-recycle items on request.” Alila uses refillable ceramic containers for shampoo and conditioner. The chain used to import all its toiletry soap from Thailand. “After the bomb in 2002 we decided to purchase all products locally. It took six months to set up a small cooperative of five women making coconut oil soap in the village of Persai in East Bali. Now 82 people from that village receive some income from the cottage industry. All our hotels use the soap and it’s the best-selling item in our gift shop.” Complain! If you see that your hotel or villa is dumping rubbish over the wall
or releasing effluent into the environment, complain loud and clear. Fill in the feedback form at your hotel…even the most hard-nosed General Manager reads these and takes them seriously. Hotels want their guests to come back year after year. When you find a property that has a sustainable environmental policy in place, be a return guest and let them know why. With a view to conserving electricity, responsible hotels in Bali have ended the era of glacially air-conditioned guest rooms. Until five years ago, the industry standard was to have the rooms chilled to 18 degrees C with the fan on high for the guests’ arrival. Now the Bali Hotel Association has adopted a policy of 23 degrees, with the fan turned down to minimum. If you’re in a hotel that doesn’t observe this policy, suggest that it does. Use a responsible travel agent. Visit www.responsibletravel.com for a listing of environmentally sustainable properties around the world. It’s very difficult to get a listing on this site; if a hotel
is on it, you can be sure it’s doing the right thing. Responsible travellers, responsible hotels. Ideally, change will come from both sides. “The trend to ecologically responsible tourism is consumer-based and consumer driven,”points out Amanda. “If the traveller challenges the hotel to be more sustainable and the hotel Green Globe is the world’s most demanding environmental benchmarking, certification and improvement system for the international travel and tourism industry. The following hotels in Bali are Green Globe certified or are in the process (list provided by the Bali Hotel Association). • Alila Manggis • Alila Ubud • Amandari • Bali Dynasty • Club Med Bali • Conrad Bali Resort & Spa • Discovery Kartika Plaza • Four Season Resort Sayan
challenges the consumer to adapt expectations like clean sheets every day and plastic amenity bottles, impacts on the environment will decline.” So don’t be greenwashed in Bali by the pretty pictures in the advertisements. Start asking questions. If you don’t like the answers, vote with your credit card. • Four Seasons Resort Jimbaran • InterContinental Bali Resort • Kayumanis Private Villa & Spa at Nusa Dua • Melia Bali (First to win Gold Certification in Indonesia) • Melia Benoa • Maya Ubud Resort & Spa • Nikko Bali Resort & Spa • Novotel Coralia Benoa Bali • Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa • Sofitel Seminyak Bali • The Chedi Club Ubud • The Legian Bali • The Westin Resort Nusa Dua • Udayana Eco Lodge
139
Sounds Around
José Padilla is the legend behind Café del Mar, the godfather of chill. Lou Nietunz caught up with him during a recent gig at The Anantara Resort in Seminyak.
JP: You can ask me whatever you want, except, don’t ask me to get naked. Right! So Jose, how many times have been to Bali now? Second time. I was here for a charity gig for the tsunami at Double Six, and I also played at a Karma Resort. What do you like to do for fun while you’re here? Well, the thing is, when I come here, I DJ, so during the day I’m pretty tired. But, you know, I have a walk around, do some shopping. I’m not really one for the beach, the waves I don’t like too much, so I’m going to the pool, you know, watch TV, like everybody. Is there a connection between Ibiza and Bali that you would like to strengthen? It looks like they want me to come back for a few weeks in August. I would like to come back. So I would play on the weekends here, and during the week, go up to the hills for some spiritual stuff, that would be good for me. Are there any plans to open a Café del Mar in Bali? Plants? Plans… Plans. Ah, no, no! I have nothing else to
do with Café del Mar. I do my own stuff. I have two compilation series out now. One is called Bella Musica, there is volume three out now, and the other one is called Café Solo, in its second edition. I also do compilation for my Man Ray parties in Paris, and I’m also working on my third solo album. I do remixes, soundtracks and music for films. Working, working, working. I’m very busy, I cannot retire yet! I have to keep working. What’s the difference between recording a compilation and doing an album? An album, obviously, is a big difference. It’s like your own baby, your own creation, you know, it’s a lot of work. You need to get all your ideas together, be ready and fresh for the studio. It’s a different thing and it takes a long time to do an album. For my own stuff, I begin from scratch. In the beginning you may have your inspiration from other music or influences, but I make my own music. For compilations, I get tracks from different people, and find music from everywhere; I search for pieces and put them together. You know, there’s a beginning, a middle and an end. But with my own albums, there’s two, the first one is Souvenir and the other one is Navigator. For my albums, I did some stuff with Seal in LA, and N’dea Davenport,
from Brand New Heavies. I do collaborations with other artists, but it’s my stuff. Would you like to do any compilation series with any of the nightlife places here in Bali? I’m open to any offers. I mean, that’s my job as a producer. If I like the concept, the spirit and energy behind the project, sure, why not? Before, I used to be a Warner Music artist, and Maverick, Madonna’s label in the States, in Europe, but now I’m free. I can move around more. You know, you’re tied if you’re working with a big company, and I want to do different things. Now I can do anything I want, it belongs to me. See before, when I was with Warner, I couldn’t do any compilations for anybody else. They would have to give me permission to do it. As far as doing something here, you know, Bella Musica is Bella Musica, Café Solo is Café Solo. It would have to be something new. Ku De Ta’s got a compilation, that’s Ku De Ta. But you can’t mix different projects together, it makes the people confused. You have to leave it simple and clear. Do you have a home studio? I used to have one with a friend, but then there were problems and we had to take everything apart, and lost a lot of money
and equipment. But now I’m making my own, with no partners. These days, you can record music anywhere. They have studios everywhere. Like when I’m in Brazil and I want to make a track, I can rent a studio in Bahia. Here in Bali, I can rent a studio here, and do something here. But at the moment, I don’t have time as I’m busy with these other projects. When I built my studio 10 years ago, all the machines were still very big and expensive, but these days you can do something small, and the prices have gone way down. As a DJ, these days, what kind of music do you play? It depends on the place. But these days, if I play a big club like Yello, in Tokyo, I play deep house, quality deep house. If for other smaller places, you know, more sophisticated, put it that way, a spectrum of different music, some bossa nova, some lounge, some soft house, tribal, but it depends on the place and the crowd. When I walk into a place, I look at the crowd, and I get an idea, more or less. Then I try a few records, and if it’s not working, I move in a different direction. I don’t play the same music every time. That’s why I carry so many boxes! Do you want to keep working with vinyl
Sounds Around
forever? The thing is with vinyl, I mean I have CDs too, but all the sunset music, the lounge stuff, the ambient stuff, I got it all on CD. But the vinyl is what I use for all the dance stuff. I mean, vinyl has a warmth to it that you don’t get on CD, and you touch it with your hands. I like to see the physical thing. But now it has become pretty rare. I mean, I was playing in Turkey, for a lounge somewhere, and the presenter introduced me, and was yelling to the crowd that I was going to play with vinyl, like it was something like a big deal! It’s strange! And then I realised that it’s quite rare, because it’s also hard to travel with. Also you lose them. A lot of DJs these days work with CDs and laptops because it’s easy, but I love my vinyl. What can I do? Let me ask you this: Do you see similarities in what you play, and the music of DJ Pippi and the Balearic House movement? Well, Pippi is a very good friend of mine, and we come from the same school. We are both old DJs, so yes, there are similarities in what we play. But Pippi is much more of a club DJ. He has a big, big knowledge of music, so he can play almost anything.
Who was it that first inspired you to move into this world of music and deejaying? Back when I was still young, my mother wanted me to go on and get an office job, and I even studied to do this, you know, numbers. But when I saw what this was like, I hated it and I knew there was no way I was going to do that. So when I was 16, that was when I first saw a disc jockey in action, and I knew that’s what I wanted to do. But back then, DJs weren’t a big thing, were they? Oh yeah, back then we were like strange animals, you know, weird people. I mean, people were like, “You DJ? You mean, that’s a job?” Back then, we didn’t even have mixers. We would have two amplifiers, and just turn from one to the other. That’s why, even now, my mixing technique is not very sophisticated. I still don’t mix with headphones, most of the time. I mean, this is the way I learned, and some people say, “Why don’t you practice?” I say, no, no, no, it works for me, it’s more from the heart, you know? And also, the programming is more important than good mixing. You can have the best mixing, be the most skillful DJ in the world, but after two hours, it all sounds like
one track. You know, I work off the crowd, I am supposed to make the audience stay there and enjoy, and I try to put a smile on their face, that’s my job. You see the thing is, I’m not a commercial DJ, I don’t put myself in a situation where I have to play shit music. I can choose what I want to play now. For some places, sometimes like in St Tropez, I have to play for the wedding of the owner of some trendy club. I have to play some chi-chi tracks like Gypsy Kings and stuff like that, but you know, they pay me a fortune, so what can I do? I play good music, and I try to get the crowd, and educate them a little bit. Always for me, you know, half and half. Things that they will know, and other stuff that they don’t. To play commercial music is very simple, anyone can do that. Where do you get your music? Everywhere! Like if I go to Japan, I spend one day in the record shops in Tokyo. I listen to radio stations, a lot. I exchange a lot of stuff with my colleagues and magazine people. Now I buy a lot of stuff online on BeatPort. But I also can get vinyl from Amazon and other places. Which country would you say has the most vibrant club culture? Which country? Well…for me, I have to say
Japan has many places, like Yello, this underground club, has been there for 53 years. New York doesn’t really have a club culture, but also in Europe, there are many strong music scenes in the big cities. London. And Berlin, also. Where is your favourite place in the world to play? That’s…well…there’s a lot of them. A difficult question. Sometimes I play at home for 10 friends, and, it’s fantastic! You know, it’s a different energy. I like to play in-house with a few friends. You relax, you don’t have that pressure of a professional. But I also played to 30,000 people in Rio, and that was fun. A lot of fun. And I played in Jakarta recently at a festival called Playground, I guess you know it, and I really enjoyed that one too. I also really like to play in Australia. The crowd is really healthy. It’s not too druggy. When it starts getting into Ketamine, it loses, so yeah, the Australian crowd is really groovy, they get up for it. And finally, what advice would you give for any young Indonesian DJs that are just starting out? Just be sure you love what you’re doing, and be patient. You don’t become famous in one day.
Raver’s Reviews
Balance 13 – SOS Album Review By Lou Nietunz London-based DJ-producer trio SOS comprises the mischievous talents of clubland upstarts Desyn Masiello, Demi and Omid 16B. Each well-versed in their own right as DJs, producers and label owners, these longtime friends began their collaboration four years ago as result of their previous imprints, SexOnWax and Deeper Substance, creating SexOnSubstance. Now, for the 13th edition of EQ Recordings’ highly acclaimed Balance series, the SOS boys have put together a triple-threat opus that delves into their attics, basements, record bags, as well as up their sleeves. The first CD begins with the crackle of thunder and cozy guitar solos from Omid’s Seagull, a previously unreleased track from his ’90s band The Reunion. Melancholy and an impending storm stir together on this wistful welcome before whirling into AN-2’s Wide Open. Reminiscent of Tangerine Dream’s Risky Business soundtrack work, organic keys and downtempo soulclaps gently work to massage your mind. From there, the vibe continues on a classic eclectic trip, with sweeping spaced-out strings meandering across the past 20 years. CD 2 shifts a couple of gears, starting where the first left off with an airy driving remix of Lullaby before morphing into the seminal tech-cowboy classic Luna by Dusty Kid and Nima Gorji’s bubbling Whatever. A
Renaissance 3D – Tom Middleton Album Review by Lou Nietunz trove of other deeper gems await, including standouts such as Aeroplane’s revisit to Corporation of One’s The Real Life. The final CD begins softly and organically, as if giving you time to find your sunglasses, before working into the orders of the day. Jazz drums and vibes work into effect on Joash’s Salome, before getting back in deeper with Aeroplane’s Pacific Air Race, Paul Keeley’s A Sort of Homecoming, and DJ Pippi & David Penn’s remix of Do U Feel It. Things turn darker for a bit with works by AFX and Dimitri, before jazzier house vibes prevail at the end of the tunnel with Kid Massive’s Release and Levan’s Miau. Loco Dice’s City Lights serves up a gritty mixture of urban breakbeats and carchase keys, before turning cheeky with Michael Ho’s Kiss the Wasp, and laying on some deepfried sexwax with Kingpin Cartel’s Moogie Nights. A spaced-out synth-bath follows with Bastian’s Game Over, before leaping back 20 years with the Alessi Brothers’ classic, Savin’ the Day. The more soulful vibe continues for the ride home, winding down in style with Stereo Brains’ synthed out Luna and The Detroit Experiment’s horntweaked Think Twice. Omid 16B’s Full of E_mty bids a delicate farewell, as you are left speechless and smiling. www.sosthecollective.com
Ambient pioneer-producer and recordlabel chameleon, Tom Middleton is back on the airwaves in ear and jaw-dropping style. The classically trained cellist-pianist turned electronica guru is currently touring to promote his new release for Renaissance. The triple CD album concept series includes one from the studio, one from home and one from the club. Previous artists on the series include Satoshi Tomiie and Faithless, so Middleton had big shoes to fill, but once again this dance music Jedi has risen to the challenge and set the bar even higher. As far as boogie-factor between the three, the Club album is obviously the first choice of discussion. Comprised largely of his own remixes, Mr Middleton sets the tone in fine form, with Kenny Hawkes’ Gemini with ’80s style Latin cowbells, before the deep bass line swerves into gear. It is quickly clear here that we are in the hands of a genius. Middleton’s understanding of classical music forms and ambient dimensions is such that he can construct large beautiful spaces for his instruments and vocals to play around in. This first track almost seems like an orchestra tuning up, and all the instruments are getting rattled and tested before getting into it. The second track, Lovin’ by Funk d’Void, slowly enters the mix and later in the track Middleton reverts back to the Gemini bassline, as if to say, “don’t forget where we just
came from…”. It is this playful prowess that allows him to dart about between tracks, as he knows which keys will work with each other. The effect is almost dizzying, yet all you can do is enjoy the ride. Remember the Days by Rhythm Plate eases in to the room with fuzzy warm synth pokes and cozy vocals. The mix between this and the following Fade, by Hipp-E, is so deep and smooth that you’re never sure which song you’re on. It’s these long deep mixes between tracks that heighten the depth of space, creating a double-deep effect. Shur-I-kan’s remix of Swap Shop follows with delicate synth rhythms that build up to glorious effect, alternating between staccato and wash techniques before leading into Jimpster’s mix of Mike Acetate’s Jus’ Move. From there, other luminaries such as Ben Watt, James Zabiela and Groove Armada are all remixed by Middleton and friends, giving a who’s who of the nu brew. It is refreshing to hear old dogs with new tricks, as it seems only the truly musically minded can survive for long in the dance music scene. Despite all the new formats, hardwares, softwares and spin-off genres, talent and the discerning ear are what cut through it all and keep us coming back for more. Mr Middleton is truly at home in the land of electronica, and continues to grow. Better, faster, stronger. Go get it!
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The Mansion
JF-F
Komaneka Bisma Esprite Nomade Sama Suka
Komaneka Bisma
Bloomz
Uphill
Diana Darling’s new novel – excerpted here for the first time – is an astounding insight into the history and nature of Bali. The royal children Ratu Mas and Ratu Ayu were born during
to see her mouth at work. There was a porcelain basin filled
down before you fall down. That tree is full of snakes, there’s
the rains of 1883. They emerged like underwater swimmers, the
with rice, several bowls of dark meat salads, and a roast duck.
a tiger up there. Come down right now.” They crept down, and
boy Mas feet first, his arms stretched over his head, clasping the
A bucket filled with water held a shapely bottle of wine, sent
for the rest of the summer they played at being king and con-
hands of his sister.
with the compliments of the Dutch doctor in North Bali, but
sort, slapping each other with garlands of leaves and miming at
Their father, the king of Tarik Tamu, had married late in life.
the king did not read Dutch and he ignored the letter placed
mating, much to the delight of their elders. Soon the children
His queen was a cousin he had loved since childhood and had
beside it. The bottle was mysteriously stoppered, and, after a
were betrothed.
vowed to make his first wife. But the marriage had been post-
few attempts with fingers and teeth, he ignored it and poured
poned for a succession of reasons over two decades of calamity.
two glasses of tea.
Now the lady felt as if they were once again in mid-air. The king led her toward the bed and said, very softly, “Un-
Preparations for the wedding were first interrupted when the
As they sipped, the bride kept her eyes lowered. Suddenly a
dress your husband.” He raised his arms. Now she touched his
bridegroom’s father, the old king, died while dancing. When the
scene flashed before her, a moment some twenty years earlier,
chest and began to unwind the long brocade that wrapped his
year of mourning was over, a cholera epidemic decimated the
when they had been playing together in a fruit tree. They had
torso. His skin was warm and startlingly fine, like her own.
population of the southern coast. The next year brought tidal
He said, “Take off my head cloth and take down my hair.”
waves that stripped the kingdom’s coconut trees, drowned the
Murmuring a polite apology, she put her hands to his head. His
livestock, and left no materials with which to make offerings.
hair was thick and rough, and it sprang free almost to his shoul-
And so it went, year after year: plagues, earthquakes, floods, and
ders. She pulled out the long gold pins that held her own hair in
volcanic eruptions. Nature itself seemed to conspire against the
place, and it fell like a great black snake to the back of her knees.
king’s ever being wed. Meanwhile, the population grew thin
Simultaneously the king and his bride put their fingers to their
and desperate, and they clenched hard to the old religion.
scalps and rubbed furiously, and then burst out laughing.
The love between the betrothed pair, however, grew bright
Now the couple wrapped sarongs over their shoulders and
under the hammering of disappointment. Sequestered since
climbed onto the huge bed. There they sat, cross-legged, timid,
the eve of their first aborted wedding day and handicapped
their hair in disarray, and talked of all that had happened during
by the bride’s illiteracy, the lovers communicated through
their long dolorous betrothal until the crowing of the palace
gifts. The young prince composed songs and taught them to
fighting cocks grew loud, and slivers of light began to appear
a mynah bird that was carried back and forth from his palace
around the edges of the shuttered windows. The king stretched
to hers; the lady embroidered scenes of shocking eroticism in
and lay back, cocooned in his sarong, and looked at his lady.
gold thread.
His eyes were mere slits of glowing black. He said, “Come kiss your brother.”
At last their wedding took place in the early summer of 1882, with no greater mishap than a sudden afternoon shower.
Much later, they spoke again.
The couple – bound in yards of gilt cloth, their oval faces pow-
“My lord,” murmured the queen.
dered and painted, their heads teetering under heavy head-
“My love.” The queen ran her hand along her husband’s arm and
dresses of gilded leather adorned with fresh flowers and sticks
whispered, “What should I call you now, my lord?”
of incense – sat in state during the banquet, while hundreds of festive relatives crowded with their plates of food under the
“What should you call me? ‘My lord’, I think, is correct.” (In Ba-
shelter of the palace pavilions, the guests growing merrier and
linese, this was “Ratu Aji”.) “At least, you must call me that when people are around. That’s how my mother addressed my father.
noisier as the rain poured down harder and whiter.
So did all his wives, as I recall.”
Long after dark, the couple were alone together at last.
seen an irresistible sotong pear at the end of a high branch, and
The wedding chamber was a modest-sized room, entirely shut-
they’d both scrambled for it. She was smaller and quicker, and
“Ratu Aji, will you promise me something?”
tered, dark and glowing with tiny kerosene lamps. The air was
when she clambered up past him, he shouted, “Stop, it won’t
“Anything.”
pungent with the smell of offerings, piled high at the foot of
do!”
“Promise me that you will take no more wives.” “What are you talking about?” Her acquisitive, gray-dusted
the bed – a canopied platform hung in gold-embroidered silks of red and green. The stone floor was slippery with flowers
feet crimped the branch beside his face.
“Ah.” “Promise.” “My dear, it would be so odd.”
and ceremonial sprinklings of wine. Raw rice crunched under
“You may not climb above the head of the king,” he’d said.
foot, and the smoke of incense rose from pinpoints of red light
“What king?” she said. Then she saw something spangled
“No, no. Think of the prince we have just made. We must
hovering around him, like a cloud of music. She saw it swell and
protect him from rivals. What do you want with lesser wives?
The bride felt chilly. Her eyes hurt, her clothes bit her skin,
move toward her, curling around her until it held them both
They’ll only give you lesser sons that will only want to kill him.
and she wished that she were back in her own room snuggled
giggling in the brilliant cloud. The wind tugged at the tree and
I’ll give you all the heirs you need.”
against her old nurse. She looked at the bed and yawned.
revved up the jangling light. The children shrieked with laugh-
“Of course you will.”
ter.
“Ratu Aji, listen to me. Why do you think the gods have
around the room.
The king took his wife’s hand and led her to a table in a corner of the room, where a supper was laid for them. He wanted
Far below someone was calling them. “Hey, hey, come
made us wait so long to marry? Because they’ve been perfect-
Uphill
pair whenever male and female twins were born, in the hope
required people who knew the terrain and could raise crews
that they might be the reincarnation of the ancient mother-
of relatives as laborers. Grand religious ceremonies needed
THE Balinese, whether royal or peasant, know well that preg-
father kings. Modern rulers became jealous, and some decreed
armies of women to make offerings, and armies of their men
nant women suffer food cravings which their husbands are
the birth of male and female twins a royal prerogative; trans-
folk to climb coconut palms for leaves, to slaughter the sacrifi-
duty-bound to satisfy, no matter how weird or inconvenient.
gression by non-royals was punishable with heavy ritual fines
cial animals, and to harvest bamboo for making fresh baskets,
The craving may be for a certain sour fruit or perhaps some fer-
and sometimes the death of one of the twins. Throughout the
platforms, mats, vessels, twine, and the wisps called s’mat with
mented rice concoction, but it must be obtained immediately,
island, cultish practices developed around the birth of male and
which they pinned together palm-leaf festoons to crown their
be it day or night. Palace life was well organized to provide for
female twins. Almost everywhere (except in the palaces), the
towering offerings. Grand rituals also required many musicians
such emergencies – there were hundreds of servants who lived
offending parents and their infants were obliged to undergo
and dancers, and these in turn required gong-smiths and wood-
in perpetual readiness to cater to royal whims – but the king’s
exhaustive purification rites, including banishment to the grave-
carvers, weavers and jewelers and poets. And all these people
pregnancy, as people called it, demanded extraordinary feats of
yard for forty-two days.
needed to be fed (for their labor must appear to be voluntary,
ing the soul of the next king to descend.”
service.
Among royalty, even though the birth of male and female
an act of graciousness, reflecting the graciousness of their king).
The queen would often awake from troubled dreams crying
twins was condoned as appropriately god-like, it was also dan-
In short, a man must be rich to be king; and if you would be
out for things that were not readily available, not even in a king’s
gerous. To claim that one’s children were the reincarnation of
rich, the simplest way was to take over the riches of your rival. To
pantry, such as a double-yoked egg of the mountain pheasant,
Masula-Masuli was to challenge the existing political order; and
do this, you could marry his daughter (or sister or mother) and
or a confection of bananas grown double in a single skin. The
in 1883 when our story opens, the political order in Bali was dan-
then kill him through magic; or you could kill him publicly in
palace magicians were soon confident in predicting twins.
gerously frayed.
battle. In either case, you could not rest, for everywhere and al-
The pregnant queen often said, when there was nothing
ways there would be others to challenge you. So you would be
else to say, “I pray for sons, as many and as quickly as the gods
a pro-active king, a warrior, frightening off challengers by your
may grant, although it doesn’t matter to me if the twins are boys
fierceness, and spending your new wealth on the seduction of
or girls, I only hope that they will be healthy and live long. Of
your new people.
course, if they are girls it would be especially fun -- choosing
By 1883, the kingdom of Tarik Tamu was old enough to have
their jewelry, teaching them to dance, watching them learn the
become sophisticated in its political structure. The king ruled as
things that I know.”
the corporate head of a vast cousinship of princes. Together they
Then the king would say, “Then I also pray that the twins will
had immense holdings of land, and they had consolidated their
be girls. Of course, if they are boys it would be especially provi-
strength and ruled as a confederacy under a commonly chosen
dent. Since kings must know how to fight and think, it would be
king. For several generations, the seat of power had been the
more practical for our princes to be male.”
palace of our king, Gusti Agung Saru, who had acceded to the
But when they were born male and female, the king bolted
throne upon the death of his elder brother but a few years ear-
the door of the birthing chamber, then opened it immediately
lier. But not all his cousins believed that the chaste prince had
and called for his high priest and the prime minister.
been the most natural choice. There were several powerful men in his family who had behaved at his wedding almost like kings
The birth of male-female twins had serious political impli-
At that time, there were perhaps a dozen kingdoms in Bali,
cations. For over a thousand years, the Balinese longed for the
and many furiously ambitious smaller lords; all were spiraling
return of the godly twins Sri Masula-Masuli, who had ruled as
into war. War had become part of the business of being king. It
There was another factor, one that was becoming increas-
king and queen when the kingdom of Tarik Tamu encompassed
was a way of winning villages. A king needed villages because it
ingly difficult to ignore, and that was the encroaching presence
all of Bali, extending even beyond its shores. In that perfect time,
was villagers who worked the land; if they did not, a king would
of the Dutch. For nearly forty years, these death-colored, foul-
gods lived casually on the earth. They mated easily with human
have no rice to dispense as favors, nor even to eat. A king must
smelling, treacherously clever barbarians had had a stronghold
beings and certain types of trees, and they conducted many
persuade villagers to cultivate the rice fields and give him a por-
on the island, on the north coast beyond the mountains. There,
useful miracles, such as the creation of writing and agriculture.
tion of the harvest. So he did not make war against the villages,
after two years of war, they had established themselves in the
When gods ruled the world, government was symphonic. Eve-
but against their lord.
very palace of the local king; and from there, they occasionally
themselves.
ryone knew what to do at every moment of life and death, and
The actual governing of villages entailed very little work.
sent emissaries to the other kingdoms informing them that Bali
they did so happily and well. The land bloomed gorgeously,
The villages had minutely detailed laws of their own which the
was now Dutch. Gusti Agung Saru’s father had dealt with the
and even field rats were respected citizens: as custodians of the
villagers held to be sacred and so enforced themselves. So al-
Dutch in the most amicable way. He entertained them, gave
grain, it was their special role to entertain the rice goddess at
though individual villagers had almost no power on their own,
them slaves, and signed whatever treaties they proffered; and
night. In the fields and in granaries, instead of stealing as they do
the villages as a corporate body had a certain leverage with the
then he ignored them.
now, the rats performed comic opera, singing hilarious songs to
nobility. There were so many lords competing for villages that
“Let them think we’re friends” he said to his sons. “That way
the orchestral accompaniment of frogs.
if one lord did not please them, they could pledge their loyalty
perhaps they’ll leave us alone. What would they do with our
to another.
kingdom anyway? They can’t even talk to the villagers. How would
But the gods eventually grew bored with government, and their reign concluded with Masula-Masuli, whose descendants
Now the main way to please villagers was to give them
were merely royal. Envy took root in the world and sprouted
things: rice fields, irrigation water, and splendid rituals to en-
But the Dutch had tremendous military might. As rumors per-
networks of need and obligation; government was now main-
hance the spiritual prestige of people and king alike. But all
sisted of their cruelty and ingenuity, some of Gusti Agung’s cousins
tained through physical force. People began to yearn for the re-
these things required much collective labor in the first place.
thought it might be splendid to have friends with a limitless supply
turn of heavenly rulers and they recalled Masula-Masuli in their
Manpower was needed to clear forests and build paddy terraces
of guns, horses, ships, cannons, and conscripted foot soldiers from
poetry and statues. Most especially, people recalled the holy
before a king could grant rice fields. Irrigation ditches and dams
other islands in the vast Indonesian archipelago that the Dutch
they get anything done?”
Uphill
“The stability of the kingdom must be preserved at all costs,”
called the Netherlands
said the king, who, in the manner of all absolute rulers, saw the
East Indies. Now, late in the night of the birth of
stability of the realm as identical with that of his reign. “We cannot allow the people to suffer any further upheaval.” The prime minister and the high priest concurred in a rever-
the royal twins, in the chill
before
dawn,
ential murmur.
in front of a smoking brazier, suddenly rocked forward and went into trance. At first, everything proceeded as usual: seizing the body and voice of the priestess, the arriving deity wept and sang nonsense syllables while the attendant priests gently called the deity to identify itself, and the attendant princes smoked cigarettes and chatted
Gusti Agung Saru sat
The king reiterated the problem. “If the cousins could be per-
genially among themselves. After about twenty minutes, the deity
in council with his high
suaded that the twins are indeed the holy pair,” he said, “then the
began to speak more clearly. But instead of declaring its identity
priest and his prime
succession is incontestable and our rule is secure.”
and revealing the ancestral origins of the royal twins, the nether-
“Indeed, my lord,” said the high priest. “No one would dare
minister. They huddled in a small pavilion
challenge them.”
worldly speaker issued a series of laments and warnings. This is all that is recorded:
set in an ornamental
The king pondered. It was customary among the Balinese that
Early grieving, broken rocks, the mountain splits,
pond, secluded by wa-
when a child is born, a trance inquiry is held to determine which
the temple falls into the sea, everything falls upside
ter and the soft clingy
ancestor has been reincarnated. At last he said, “Let them be de-
down. The mountain will choke you and the sea will
clared at the trance inquiry for babies’ birth.”
turn sideways in its tide. The rivers burn. Young blood
air.
The high priest and the prime minister nodded deferentially
The prime minister was a gigantic man, very formal in demeanor, whose official attire was heavy with black velvet, gilded
and waited.
falls in the streets, old blood falls in secret. The fields are surrounded by wire, you will bury your clothes and
leather, and green and red brocade. Slung behind his shoulders
“I’m just wondering how to bring the cousins in,” said the king.
wear leaves. Beware of poison from the sky and from
was a sheathed kris knife whose hilt was carved from rhinoceros
The prime minister clasped his hands deferentially in front of
the sea. Beware of machines on the eastern beach and
his face and said, “Perhaps one of their priests could be the me-
on the southern beach, children. Beware of kin on the
dium at the trance inquiry, my lord.”
northern beach and the western beach, children of
horn and set with rubies, emeralds, diamonds and sapphires. The high priest was a slim brahmin clan in white linen whose
“Yes. That’s exactly what I was thinking; they’d like that. High
hair was tied in a topknot, and he was speaking with the sweetness of a mother soothing her child. “If the twins are the reincarna-
priest, is there someone suitable?”
Bali. Then the deity became incomprehensible again, and de-
tion of Sri Masula-Masuli, my lord, the strength of the dynasty is
“I believe it’s the southern palace who would be most anxious
parted in tears. The council disbanded in little groups murmur-
assured,” he said. “The people are exhausted. They will embrace the
about the twins, my lord. I believe it would be wise to approach
ing among themselves, and the spiritual ancestry of the royal
twins with all their hearts.”
them. And the priest of the southern palace is a fine medium.”
twins remained inconclusive.
“Kindly speak to him, then. You will know how to put the mat-
The king said, “Yes, of course.” He paused a moment and then said, “What do you think, prime minister?” The prime minister struggled to keep his deep voice low. It sounded like the faraway boom of the sea. “I’m concerned about the cousins, my lord. There must be something in it for them,” he
ter.”
they got back to the palace. “I will speak to her. She is the widow of the old priest, my lord,”
he explained with a slight bow. “And assure him the prince all the sacrificial animals and so forth will come from us. It shouldn’t cost him a thing.”
said. The king said, “My thoughts exactly. They must feel included or the babies’ lives are in danger.” “And ours as well,” said the prime minister.
“What happened?” the king asked of the high priest when
On the appointed night, a council of priests and princes met
“I told you, my lord; she’s a very good medium.” “What should we do now? We can’t simply declare them gods. Can we?” “Perhaps the time is not ripe. Perhaps when they come of age. Meanwhile, let them be raised in seclusion. It will be safer
in a forest temple on the outskirts of the town of Tarik Tamu, and af-
for them and for us.”
ter much preliminary ritual, the old priestess, seated cross-legged
IIlustrations: Miguel Covarrubias, Island Of Bali.
Art Market
Gaya in Sayan fuses different aspects of the art world to provide a multi-use space that showcases creativity. Gaya Fusion, one of the island’s leading contemporary art spaces, combines art with life through its galleries, ceramics, restaurant and villas. The Ubud institution was built out of a shared dream of integration – Eastern and Western visions melded together to create growth and expansion. The Bali laboratories of contemporary creative processes that make up the Gaya Fusion are in themselves a work of art, a work in progress. The Gaya concept grew from a friendship between I Nyoman Birit who, with his Italian friend, Stefano Grandi, wanted to create a partnership in art – a project that would bring about a learning experience through their friendship and would be geared towards improving the lives of people in Bali. The result was Gaya Fusion, a gallery in Sayan that is striking in both its architecture and in its mission to bring international artists to Bali, as well as promot-
ing Indonesian artists in other parts of the world. The building itself is reminiscent of a Mayan temple, dreamt up by Birit and Grandi and built in 1999 by Ketut Artana, of architects Arte. It immediately caught the attention of the international community for its white, airy gallery space and alang-alang-covered restaurant, a refuge for artists that reflects in its menu the collaboration at its core. As Nyoman Birit says: “As an art institution wanting to support the artistic community, Gaya goes beyond just providing wall space. We wanted to create a meeting of cultures, of East and West, by making a space for it to happen.” And happen it does, through exhibitions, free art programmes for children and through its cultural outreach programme that brings the expatriate community closer to understanding Balinese culture. The Gaya set up goes further, providing
accommodation with three villas built originally for resident artists (there are four more planned for this year). The villas integrate original artwork with luxurious living – a reflection of the Gaya philosophy that art and life are inseparable. All rental proceeds from the villas are ploughed back into local art and culture projects. Below the villas’ pool is The Spa at Gaya Villas, where you can destress with a Balinese, European, or Aromatherapy massage. Birit says he can see the positive impact of Gaya’s promotion of dialogue and communication between East and West. “Now more Balinese visitors are coming to Gaya,” he says. “It is no longer seen as a place for just the international community to communicate and contribute to contemporary art.” Indeed Gaya has built a track record – established through critics, artists and the media – as one of Indonesia’s leading contemporary art spaces. Successes to date
have included showstoppers like Markus Heinsdorf’s 35-metre bamboo zeppelin, built for a 2002 exhibition, and Dreamland, by the artist Made Wianta, a visual art event which took him all the way to the Venice Biennale in 2005. The recently exhibited Krisna Murti was also a 2005 participant at the Venice event with an exhibition entitled Video Spa, filmed at and developed for an exhibition at the gallery. Current and future events include New Totems for Mother, by Wayan Kun Adnyana, and a solo exhibition, planned for next month (July) by Sujana Suklu. With the support of Gaya Fusion, artists like Krisna Murti, Adnyana and Suklu will continue to grow internationally, with the gallery providing not only a creative exhibition space but support and advice that will help showcase deserving local talent on the international stage. www.gayafusion.com
Mood Food
A humble shack is pioneering a much-needed organic attitude to food, writes Michele Cempaka.
AS I steered my motorbike along a narrow footpath that passed through teeming rice fields, it became increasingly clear that my destination was truly in the middle of nowhere. It took all of my concentration not to end up knee-deep in an irrigation channel. But then, hard work usually pays dividends, and as the rice fields that make up Sari Organik began to level out, my friend and I started to look forward to our lunch at Warung Bodag Maliah. A modest restaurant and shop that opened in 2007, Warung Bodag Maliah is a casual open-sided hut that offers a choice of tables and chairs made from bamboo. It doesn’t matter where you sit – the 360-degree view of stunning rice fields is inescapable. Nila, the owner of Sari Organik, decided to open the warung in 2007 with the help of Oded, her sponsor and visionary behind this project. They both realised that it was quite difficult to earn a living by just selling vegetables, so they came up with the idea of Warung Bodag Maliah as a
means for processing the food from the farm, thus making it more economically feasible. While Sari Organik still doesn’t make a profit, the restaurant has assisted them in covering their costs. “I wanted to create a family restaurant where people can come and relax and really enjoy the view and the peaceful environment,” said Nila, a gracious Indonesian woman who originally came from Kintamani but moved away when she was 14. She had numerous jobs cooking in restaurants in Singapore and Jakarta before returning to Bali in 2001after her father passed away. Warung Bodag Maliah offers some of the best organic dishes that I have ever tasted in Bali, such as an incredible Warm Tofu Feta Salad with Homemade Pita Bread. My friend sampled the Falafel Plate, which came with a variety of roasted vegetables, Tofu Falafel and their own locally grown rice. “Not many people make really healthy food without
chemicals,” said Nila, “so my goal is to make all the spices, vegetables, etc. without chemicals.” The warung also sells other locally grown products such as tofu ricotta, tofu feta, pesto, tomato sauce, homemade jams, and a variety of unique fruit wines, fresh brown bread and more. Sari Organik began operations in 2003 with five are that were given to Nila and Oded by a friend. Since that time they have expanded the farm to 42 are. They now have six farmers growing different varieties of indigenous rice which they process themselves to ensure that it is pure wholegrain rice. The land is currently providing salaries for 20 families. Their mission is to create a chemicalfree farm that farmers can make a viable living from while preserving the environment. In the near future, Oded has an even greater vision of extending the farm so that the entire ridge can produce food for all of Ubud. “We want to create the least amount
Mood Food
of distance between the producer of the food and the customers,” he said. “In other words, I’d like to see the food picked and then delivered to the customer on the same day.” He stresses that in order to achieve this goal they must revitalise the workforce by bringing in younger blood, as well as raising the income and prestige of the profession of farming. In addition, Oded envisions a city garden that
will be designated for localised food production to support the Ubud community and surrounding vicinities. “I would also like to see the Balinese reconnect to the land and to Dewi Sri, the Goddess of rice. It’s important that they understand the detriments of using chemicals and fertilisers on their rice crops,” said Oded. Oded and Nila both admit that it is a continuous learning process, as they share ideas with the community and
experiment with different techniques for planting vegetables and propagating indigenous rice strains in order to prevent them from disappearing. Their dream is that Sari Organik will serve as a model for a family-size farm that can be duplicated by other farmers in Ubud – and throughout Indonesia. Sari Organik Tel: 972087, 7801839. sari-organik@hotmail.com
The Ubudian
Jason Monet is a 70-year-old father of six. He’s recently completed the building of a bamboo house that looks like a spaceship; he’s an affable raconteur and a fascinating host; and he’s dedicated his life to art. It shows in the quality of his work. Let’s start by telling our viewers at home your name... Jesus. You don’t really mean ‘Jesus’, do you? Well, that was the first name I was called. My mother had eight sons and my parents wanted a daughter so when my father saw me come out, the first thing he said was: “Jesus Christ. Not another boy!” True story. So what is your name? Jason William Francis Monet. After Francis of Assisi. Where were you born and how did you grow up? In Chelsea. I was born in Chelsea and brought up there. Until when? I lived there until I was 32 years of age. Are you related to the other famous Monet? No. We only discovered in 1997 that our family originated from Jersey. We always thought we originated from France, but no. Records dating around 1760 show we are from Jersey. Claude Monet’s family came from northern France. Although, being close to Jersey, it is possible one of his ancestors could have come from there. But the French wouldn’t like that. Can you imagine, we have Turner and Monet? So you spent some time thinking you were related to the famous Claude? No. We didn’t think that. We thought there was a possibility because my grandmother said her husband’s cousin was a great painter in France. We thought there was a possibility that my great grandfather could have been his uncle or
brother, but when we made inquiries, the French wouldn’t help at all. The Monet family moved to Le Havre when the Prussians got into Paris…and Le Havre is also not that far from Jersey, so…anyway, when my daughters are asked the question, “Are you related to the famous Monet?” they always say, “Yes! He’s my father!” Do people ever think you’re dining out on his name, just to get along? Oh Christ, yes. I actually had it yesterday because I was doing a painting and someone said, very sarcastically, “Here’s to you, Jason Monet!” Apart from that, coming from Chelsea and going to college with a name like Monet, well it wasn’t funny, really. As an artist, what do you share with your famous (or not) ancestor? Well I guess a love of nature, for sure. The love of light, which is the reason I am in Bali. The light here is fantastic, even compared to Borneo. The light is incredible. What makes it so special? It is the huge contrasts between shade and brightness, exciting just in itself. You could almost paint only in black here. Where did you go to school? I went to the London School of Printing and Graphic Arts. Prior to that, when I was 13, I went to a technical school and did commercial art until I was 16. When I went to college I was the youngest pupil.
The Ubudian
The Ubudian
This page, clockwise from top left: Elliot Gould; Monet; with his parents in Malta; love and kaftans; kiss and tell; Monet with Barbra Streisand; hard at work; Rolf Harris. Right: the Monet style...
The Ubudian
What year was that? 1954. So what was commercial art all about in the ’50s? Posters, record sleeves, book covers…soft drink bottles. All the lettering was by hand in those days. So are you an expert on fonts? I love fonts. I love calligraphy, because each letter has its own character. I once did a menu for a French restaurant in Melbourne and I couldn’t stop writing the word ‘oysters’. A delicious word to write. But I was lousy at the rest of commercial art. And when did you first decide you wanted to be an artist? It happened by chance. I wanted to become a vet. I always loved animals, and as I was lucky enough to be born near the Natural History Museum. I used to go and draw the stuffed animals there. I was seven. It was my brother who talked me into going into commercial art and I am so glad he did. I went to the West Indies and when I came back I was being interviewed at Bush House by the BBC and the interviewer asked me, “How come Augustus John went to the West Indies and couldn’t achieve anything?” And I answered that it was because he couldn’t get away from his English palette. He’d studied Fine Art, you see. He couldn’t get away from the colours. Just like Monet. When he went to London to paint, he was using French colours. He couldn’t achieve anything either. The point is, I didn’t have a palette. I did commercial art, everything was new to me. Just like my wife. She was a ballet dancer, a brilliant dancer who got into the New York City Ballet Prima Donna class. But she was hopeless on the dance floor. Couldn’t loosen up. Define your style as an artist. Very simple. I see something – and I usually have to be in love with what I see – and I paint it as quickly as possible to capture the moment, the feeling. Do we need to be able to draw to be an artist? I once asked a guy, an artist, “Do you paint?” And he said yes. And I said, “What sort of work do you do?” And he said, “Abstract. Because I can’t draw.” Do you see the world in a different way to most people, do you think? No, the reason why Rembrandt was brilliant was because he got very close to the reality of what one sees every day. And he maybe only got 60 percent. People like me are lucky to get 40 percent. For instance, we used to have in England these things called poly photographs. They were for passports. Forty different views of your head. And you got a sheet of them and you’d say to all of your friends, which one really looks like me? And they would all chose the same three or four. Whereas the person who’s in the photograph wouldn’t choose one of them. So, for me, good art is the nearest you can get to the truth. You’ve lived your whole life as a bohemian. When were you most bohemian?
I don’t know how bohemian I am. We used to go three days at a time without eating in London. Because we didn’t have any money. Not once or twice, but quite a few times. If that’s bohemian, I suppose that was it. Do you have any famous friends? Yes. The trouble is that half of them are dead! Francis Bacon. I did six portraits with Noel Coward. I like to think that perhaps I was a slight friend of his. Barbra Streisand. We were like brother and sister. Elliot Gould. And Rolf the bloody Harris. What do you think of fame, or being famous? I was asked that by a New Zealand girl some years ago, sarcastically, and it quite upset me. I turned around and said that if you are famous, people will listen to you. If you are famous, people will spend time looking at your work and
what you’re doing. Having certain principles that I would like to pass on about conservation, yes, fame would help get those ideas across. If there were 60 David Bellamys the world would be a different place. What he achieved is enormous. Or a couple of thousand David Attenboroughs. So fame has its uses. I thank David Bellamy. I lived on this island in Australia and there were these mud flats, and they wanted to build on them, and David stopped it. So I asked him how, and he said they found a worm that didn’t exist anywhere else in the world. And later he said, psst, Jason, it never existed. What’s our philosophy on life? It’s funny, one does often think of an answer for that, but when asked on the short list, it’s er…I suppose my philos-
ophy is the same as the Koran and the Bible teaches, the same principles. Be honest, fair and give…because the joy is in giving. How many lovers have you had in your life? Oh my god. Real lovers? There were three girls I should have married. One was a lovely English girl called Jenny Cooper. The other was Indian, Malay-Indian, a schoolteacher, and the third one was a Japanese girl. How many children do you have? Six, that I know of. How many times have you been married? Twice. Did having children change the way you looked at life as an artist? Certainly it affected my work, because it scares the daylights out of me thinking how I am going to support them! What is the most valuable lesson you could give an artist starting out? Not to accept mediocrity. An artist is a good artist whose standard is very high. For instance, when I work, if I can’t do something that is equally as good as the great masters who I respect, it’s not good work. I always say, Monet was a man, Picasso was a man, and as men you are capable of doing what they were capable of doing. Rodin said, first be a man then be an artist, and I think you have to believe that. Francis Bacon told me once that a teacher had told him not to do more than you were able, but Francis said no, you must excel, excel, excel. Take Monet for instance. A good 75 percent of his work was rubbish because he was always experimenting, always going, but when he did hit it, he was brilliant. When were you happiest? It might sound like a cliché but when each of my children was born, and each grandchild. When were you most sad? When my first wife kidnapped my two sons. Maybe that’s a tale for another time. Let me ask you this. What’s wrong with the world? The world has become so materialistic. Computers are the new bible. How many kids today know how to light a fire? The simplest thing. I am leaving my head to the British Museum as the last person ever to smoke cigarettes who had never touched a computer. What’s right with the world then? Nature has always been beautiful. One is not supposed to paint it anymore, one is supposed to do the inner thing. There is nothing more exciting for me than when the natural colours keep changing. A lot of people have painted in aggravation, but when I wake up and look out, what I see is beauty. I can paint your plastic bottles, I can do that, but for what? Why paint it? Jason Monet, thank you very much. You’re welcome.
Ravine Retreats
Bamboo Chic
Bambu Indah offers rustic luxury in the gardens of a tropical farm, writes Hanna Rodian.
Although John and Cynthia Hardy are no strangers to these pages, very few people on the island know about their latest venture. Before the Hardys sold their successful jewellery and homewares business, they had to look after a constant stream of guests who left them little time and private space for their own family. Their Bambu Indah (Beautiful Bamboo) ‘guesthouses’, designed
for visiting guests and family, were installed on a stunning piece of land overlooking the Sayan Ridge, just next door to the Hardy’s award-winning private house. Consisting of four different-sized Javanese wooden houses or joglos, each one has spectacular views from both bed and terrace and is strategically placed for optimal privacy between gurgling streams, the only purely natural swimming pool on the island and paddy fields planted to the very edge of the ravine. The resort was named because of the Hardy’s passion for using bamboo as a building material after working for many years with Linda Garland, using it in different ways for all his projects. The huge entrance hall and bamboo reception area are still being realised and John tells me that a yoga space, gym, library and who knows what else will be housed there in the future. Guests not used to ‘boulder hopping’
have to hurry to not only to keep their balance but to follow the nimble staff who lead the way to their joglo. The wooden houses have been lovingly restored and designed with uncluttered care. Complete with fourposter beds, beautiful bed linen, large pieces of primitive furniture, walls hung with batiks from John’s large collection and decorative objects from all over Southeast Asia, pampered guests from Manhattan to Manchester do not have to forgo any creature comforts and can expect surprises to delight the senses around every creaky corner. The slatted, wooden floored bathrooms perch on pillars over pebbles and the walls are planks of re-cycled wood, threaded with white canvas for privacy. The showerhead is a snake-like piece of copper piping and the fluffy towels are reminiscent of the best five-star hotels. Even the loo is breathtakingly unusual in its unexpected technical-
ity. One of John’s little knick-knacks, it’s an instrument with lots of directions attached to the seat. Needless to say, this amazing American-style bidet, courtesy of CleanButt. com (kid you not) was not mentioned in the Wallpaper or New York Times articles about the resort. There is little competition and the future of Bambu Indah is guaranteed, because so few resorts on the island dare to offer their guests ‘traditional’ accommodation, recreating the past of Bali and the Indonesian archipelago. There will be no ‘fixed-smile’ dance performances here, this is the real deal, and will hopefully become a place of pilgrimage not only for the well-heeled celebrities in the Hardy’s circle but for those discerning globetrotters who still seek simplicity and cocooning natural materials. www.bambuindah.com
Ubud Views
Cultural Dance Calendar Ed Bud
It’s a privilege this issue to showcase some astounding Ubudians, first with the affable and highly creative Jason Monet, who’s Evxpressionist style is a timeless celebration of classic creativity; and then with Diana Darling, who has been gracious enough to allow us all a sneak peak of her wonderful second novel Transit Fields, an intimate look at how Bali has changed in the context of invasions. This is no small gift – her first novel was snapped up by publishers Houghton Mifflin and her second is likely to follow the same path. We’re also lucky to have a Mood Food review this issue on a fabulous (but little known) organic restaurant in the middle of the sawa, and a review of Gaya Artspace, one of the leaders in Ubud artistist endeavour. Hanna Rodian also takes great pleasure in visiting Bambu Indah, the Hardy’s peaceful and eco-friendly retreat. With so much going on with our climate, it’s hard not to be humbled by these efforts at the green life. Is there any option? Of course not – it’s crunch time, boys and girls, make or break for our future. How sad that Big Business still fails to realise it…
When 1st & 15th of every month
What Gambuh dance (The Ancient Drama of Bali)
Where Pura Desa Batuan
Every Full & New Moon
Kecak Dance
Arma Open Stage, Peliatan
Mondays
Legong Dance Kecak (Fire) Dance Ciwa Ratri Dance Barong & Keris Dance
Ubud Palace Tunjungan Village Pura Dalem Puri Jaba Pura, Desa Kutuh
Tuesdays
Ramayana Ballet Legong Dance by women Spirit of Bali Kecak & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow puppets) Legong Dance Legong
Ubud Palace Puri Saraswati Jaba Pura, Desa Kutuh Jaba Pura, Padang Kertha Kerta Accommodation Puri Kaleran Peliatan The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah
Wednesdays
Legong & Barong Dance Wayang Kulit Kecak & Trance Dance
Ubud Palace Oka Kartini Padang Tegal
Thurdays
Gabor Dance Legong Dance (Children’s gamelan) Barong Dance Kecak Dance Calonarang Dance
Ubud Palace Puri Saraswati Puri Saraswati Puri Agung Peliatan Mawang Village
Fridays
Legong Dance Barong Dance Kecak & Trance Dance Legong
Ubud Palace Peliatan Village Pura Dalem Ubud The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah
Saturdays
Legong Dance Legong Dance Calonarang Dance Legong Dance Wayang Kulit
Ubud Palace Puri Saraswati Mawang Village Pura Dalem Puri Ubud Kerta Accommodation
Sundays
Legong of Mahabaratha Kecak & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit Legong Dance Female Gamelan and Children’s Dance
Ubud Palace Padang Tegal Oka Kartini ARMA Peliatan Village
A unique opportunity to witness the spectacular revival of Gambuh – the ancient dance drama of Bali. Performances every 1st and 15th of the month at 7.00 p.m., at Pura Desa Batuan, (11km from Ubud). Entrance fee Rp50.000. Free transport from Ubud Tourist Office at 6.30 p.m. For reservations telephone 974 528/295 846.
Issue Sixteen June/July/August 2008
THE BUD RAVINE RETREATS UBUDIAN MOOD FOOD ART MARKET UPHILL BUD MAP
Ubud Views Bambu Indah Jason Monet Sari Organic Gaya Transit Fields Get Lost. Not.
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IDR Rp 48.000 S$9 HK$45 €3.50