WINE & DINE

Somerset Produce

ONE OF THE joys of living in Somerset is that with farming being at the heart of our community we have ready access to some fabulous local produce.

When it comes to tourism, although there are many reasons to come and visit the county, visitors are often just passing through on their way to Devon and Cornwall.

In recent years though we have become much better at promoting all of the wonderful things on offer, particularly when it comes to the abundance of locally produced food and drink.

First held in 2018, I was inspired by this year’s Somerset Food Trail Festival to investigate the offerings of small local producers, pubs, cafés and restaurants in the area, many of which do not usually open their doors to the public on a regular basis. There is a clear focus on local, sustainable suppliers.

Although festivals such as these are a brilliant way to showcase all that is on offer, if we want to ensure that these small businesses survive in tough economic times then we owe it to them to show our support year round.

Barley Sugar Bakehouse Unit 2 Oxen Road, Crewkerne TA18 7HN Saturdays 7am – 1pm

Yes, it is open just one morning a week, and hidden down a narrow lane in this market town, but their freshly baked breads, cakes and pastries are well worth the trip.

Run by husband and wife team Nigel Trebble and Sarah Hunter, like many other food lovers they headed to Somerset after years of working in top London restaurants and wanting to spread their wings.

The bakery is named after the barley used in brewing the copious amounts of beer they knocked back while they were dreaming about setting up their business. Now they have gone from selling their bread from out of the boot of their car at farmer’s markets to opening up the shop at the front of their bakery each week, in addition to being a firm fixture at festivals all over the west country.

In addition to my favourite sour dough bread, seeded, malt, rye and spelt loaves, baguettes and whole meal granaries are on offer. There is always a different ‘loaf of the week’ too.

The Green House Beech Barn, Eaglewood Park, Whitelackington, Ilminster TA19 9DQ 10am- 4pm daily

I have been a fan of owner George’s approach to offering local, sustainable Somerset food for many years. Having moved from the centre of town this gem of a venue is now situated in Dillington Park which offers stunning views and amazing walks in which to enjoy her great homemade food and the opportunity to buy a selection of gifts and sustainable edibles to take away. Private events are catered for and friends often comment on the friendly helpful service. I love the sausage rolls. Dogs welcome too!

The Feed Station Sandy Hole, Merriott TA16 5QR Mon-Fri: 9am-3.30pm Sat-Sun: 9am-4.30pm

Set up by cyclists looking to create a perfect pitstop café, this quirky eatery is located in a beautiful Grade II listed building, and recently won Cycling Café of the Year. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or afternoon tea, or one of their delicious homemade cakes, all locally produced. I always opt for eggs Benedict and freshly squeezed orange juice. Very popular so best to get there early!

The Pigpen Fair View, Over Stratton, South Petherton, Somerset TA13 5LB

This was a new find for me. Whilst they don’t share the space with the Tamworth pigs anymore, they have created a relaxed ‘gathering’ space where they host Friday Feasts with fires, music (guests are invited to bring their own instruments), and delicious home-made supper. They aim to offer locally sourced organic ingredients; woodland reared pork from Dinnington estate farm, ruby red beef from Nick Wakely at Compton Durville and lamb reared on the family farm in Dorset.

They are also keen vegetable growers and use home grown veg. wherever possible.

The thought of warm homemade bread made with Stoates organic flour from Cann Mills near Shaftesbury slathered with organic butter makes my mouth water.

All glasses, crockery and cutlery are provided, with fires and blankets to keep you toasty warm on chilly nights.

In their quest to be eco-friendly they encourage guests to bring their own drinks in tins and glass bottles (and take them home to pop in the recycling).

Doors open at 6.30 pm, food served from 7.00pm and they can cater for most dietary requirements if ordered in advance. Places can be booked by emailing Kath - kath@the pigpen.net or call 07798 500916

Friday Sept. 30th - mark the Equinox and feel the balancing point of the seasons £22.50, Pumpkin night - Friday October 28th £22.50, Winter Solstice Friday December 16th £tbc.

Bathampton Mill, Mill Lane, Bathampton.

Perry's Cider The Cider Mills, Dowlish Wake, Ilminster, TA19 0NY Mon-Fri: 9am-5.30pm Sat 9.30am-4.30pm; includes Pizza in the Orchard, 12-4pm Local producer “The Cookhouse” provides a popup menu on Wed, 11-4pm Sun 10am-1pm

This award-winning craft cider company makes craft ciders as naturally and as simply as possible, using only Somerset apples, small batch techniques, 100% juice and nearly 100 years of know-how all on one site.

A popular place for picnics, their cider farm shop is well worth a visit for locally produced delicacies. Riverside Somerset Unit 1, Rose Mills Industrial Estate, Ilminster TA19 9PS Mon-Sat: 9am-4pm

This café and farm shop, with outdoor seating beside the River Ile, has quickly gained a following of loyal regulars. Their own meat is produced; they specialise in heritage breeds (pork, lamb and wagyu beef) and slow-grown, grass-fed methods with an emphasis on sustainability and quality. Their farmhouse breakfasts are sufficient to set me up for the day!

The Bathampton Mill, Mill Lane, Bathampton, BA2 6TS, Tel. 01225 469758

With so many pubs, restaurants and other small businesses closing their doors for the final time in the last couple of years, it is heartening to hear of the recent investment that has been made for the refurbishment of The Bathampton Mill.

Having been a professional chef, competition judge and quality standards inspector for more years than I care to remember, I was delighted to receive an invitation to a preview of the new menu.

However, as a critic and writer let there be no mistake ... free meals do not necessarily mean a glowing review; it would be more than my reputation for objectivity and integrity is worth!

The Bathampton Mill, part of the long-standing Mitchells & Butlers Group, and part of their Premium Country Pubs brand, aims to deliver great food and drinks and a desire to consistently make the great

British pub experience special for both their staff and guests.

Sited on the edge of Bath, one of the UK’s top visitor destinations, competition is tough. The danger for many establishments is the tendency to rely on passing trade, when in fact it is during the off-season that the loyalty of locals is what keeps a place ticking over.

Added to this is that with rising prices and the struggling economy, people are much more conscious of how they spend their hard-earned money and where they choose to spend it.

Much as I enjoy being on the receiving end of great service and good quality food, what is often overlooked, and can make or break the guest experience, is the hospitality; how I am treated. The odd mishap can be forgiven as long as I, the person paying their wages, feel valued.

Certainly, the splendidly stylish décor with its contemporary new look could not fail to give a very positive and welcoming first impression. The pub has a luxurious country house feel enhanced by interesting eye-catching artwork. Open log fires, for winter months, plush velvet seating and feature lighting add a touch of glamour to this relaxing and inviting space. Clearly this is intended to be a destination pub; not your average local boozer.

The pub has seating for 120, supplemented by a pleasant outdoor area; booking, especially at weekends, is advisable.

Invited to dine there prior to the official launch, the invitation was for myself and a guest, to sample items from their ‘All Day Menu’, which includes the usual suspects, pizza, burgers, steaks and salads, in addition to other more interesting dishes. Seasonal menus, with a range of interesting options from around the world, are supplemented by familiar pub favourites. The Bathampton Mill also prides itself on their rotisserie pork belly, 21 day-aged ribeye steak, and of course the traditional Sunday roast. Their new Dine at Home service is an ideal option for those nights when you don’t feel like cooking. Orders placed via their website automatically receive a 20% discount.

Arriving on a warm sunny evening, everything looked spick and span, and we were greeted by lovely smiley staff, including Rob (part of the training team and manager at another property), manager Kiran, and Max at the bar, who engaged with us enthusiastically to talk about the wide selection of beverages on offer.

I plumped for the Blood Orange and Passion Fruit Collins, from their extensive list of cocktails (sadly no brandy ones on offer though) which at £8.95 seemed reasonable and was quite delicious; sunshine in a glass. It could well become my go-to cocktail in future. Cocktails are just £12 for two from Monday to Thursday.

My companion, unable to decide which of the 30+ wines by the glass to have, was given several to try before making her decision. As she was driving (so that I could drink) she opted for the low calorie, low alcohol rosé. Not quite my cup of tea; I opted for an Italian Gavi, and a Portuguese red from the Douro. It was good to be able to choose something other than the limited mundane range of choices on offer in most pubs.

Our waitress for the evening, Zoe, was attentive without being intrusive and, once again, was keen to engage with us when invited to do so. When questioned about menu items she showed a good level of knowledge and an awareness of allergies.

In addition to quite an extensive ‘All Day Menu’, vegetarians and vegans are not forgotten, with a separate menu offered. There is also a children’s menu, main courses at £5.95, where it was pleasing to see some nod to offering healthy accompaniments in addition to the usual pizza, pasta and chicken. Whilst showing the calorie count for each dish was useful, on a personal level, when dining out, I am not at all sure that I want to be reminded of how much I am consuming!

As the pub is part of a large group, it is understandable that some menu items are bought in rather than being made in house.

All of the food we tried was well presented. We opted for ... (yes, I know, scallops and pork, but our bellies got the better of us!)

PAN-FRIED WILD SCALLOPS with ras el hanout, smoked haddock Florentine bonbons, celeriac purée, apple & fennel tartare 265kcal £11.50. Whilst enjoyable, I felt that the scallops were somewhat overwhelmed by the other ingredients.

PORK BELLY BAO BUN with miso and sweet chili sauce, and kimchi 587kcal £7.25. This was less successful, and a poor rendition of a Chinese staple.

CAESAR SALAD - baby gem lettuce, anchovies, shaved parmesan, ciabatta croutons 627kcal £10.95. This was huge, and although the anchovies were MAPLE-GLAZED SLOWCOOKED PORK BELLY & SCALLOPS with a pulled pork & cider bonbon, roasted celeriac & fresh apple purée, dauphinoise potatoes, Tenderstem® broccoli, Bordelaise* sauce 1410kcal £19.75. Lots of lovely crispy crackling with this, and the generous portion of Dauphinoise potatoes were very well executed. As for the scallops, an unnecessary addition.

HOME-BAKED CHOCOLATE BROWNIE Belgian chocolate sauce, Bourbon vanilla ice cream (v) 661kcal £6.95. This is one of a few homemade puds on offer. I am not normally a brownie fan, but this was superb and highly recommended.

SICILIAN LEMON POSSET Vanilla sablé biscuits (v) 325kcal £6.95. Served unusually in a shallow ramekin, this provided a light finale to what was overall a good dining experience.

I would like to have seen cheese on offer to appease those who do not have a sweet tooth.

There is clear customer focus and flexibility at The Bathampton Mill, and although as the evening progressed there were some minor teething problems, this is to be expected with a brand-new team of staff in place; the overwhelming feeling was one of enthusiasm and positivity, and a good level of knowledge, although the website does need some tidying up.

I certainly plan to return and have earmarked several other dishes worth trying ….

CROXTON MANOR CHEESE SOUFFLÉ - toasted pine nuts, red chicory, sweet pear, cucumber dressing (v) 541kcal £7.50

BUTTERMILK CHICKEN, SOMERSET BRIE & BACON PIE - sautéed green beans & Tenderstem® broccoli, creamed potato, rich chicken gravy 1375kcal £15.75

APPLE & DAMSON CRUMBLE – with Bourbon vanilla ice cream 204kcal or custard 80kcal (v) £6.75.

In an industry which is struggling, The Bathampton Mill is clearly taking a step in the right direction, putting the customer at the heart of its operation.