42 minute read

Gorbals, Kinning Park Cessnock & Govan

Govan, Ibrox, Kinning Park, Cessnock, Gorbals, Bellahouston

To many Scots The Gorbals is still a byword for the type of deprivation that Glasgow was once famous for. To residents of even just a few decades ago, it would be unrecognisable today with its penthouse apartments, 24-hour gyms and drive-thru coffee shops.

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Government investment of close to £1 billion has transformed the southern Clyde waterfront area into a slick media hub. When the BBC opened its Scottish headquarters on the south bank of the river in 2007, it didn’t take long for big-money companies to line up alongside it. The Quayside today plays host to casinos, cinemas, restaurants and high-rise luxury chain hotels. Behind the shininess of the riverfront, however, these are still working-class parts of town. Immigrant communities from across Europe and the Middle East have settled here, and continue to do so. The shops, cafes, barbers, bars and restaurants reflect that multiculturalism. In many ways, this area of town paints a distinct picture of modern Glasgow. A heartening mix of the city’s industrial past and its ambitious future.

Go outdoors

There aren’t many green spaces in the area. It is, after all, the city’s industrial heartland. A walk or bike ride along the river, however, offers a whistle-stop tour of some of Glasgow’s most iconic buildings and structures, from Glasgow Science Centre and Govan Parish Church to Glasgow University, the Finnieston Crane and the SEC across the water (as well as the squinty bridge across it).

For a spooky summer walk, consider ducking in under the large stone archway of the Gorbals Southern Necropolis (Caledonia Rd). A nod to the area’s grim history, this graveyard (founded in 1840) is the final resting place for over 250,000 Gorbals inhabitants. It is worth seeking out the famous White Lady monument. Just be sure not to walk around her ghostly statue three times or – legend has it – she will turn your body to stone.

Deeper south is Bellahouston Park – a terrific spot for running, cycling and picnics, it even has a dry ski slope and hosts concerts in the summer. Within the park sits the unique House for an Art Lover. Built in the 1990s, based on 1901 notes left behind by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the large white mansion hosts exhibitions, weddings and is in some ways a curiously compromised example of the British Art Nouveau style. If you’re looking for a more authentic Mackintosh fix, stroll past the imposing Scotland Street School (225 Scotland St) for a glimpse at its striking exterior; the sandstone Victorian school building is a wonderful example of Mackintosh’s style.

Food and drink

A fun foodie highlight is Govan’s The Big Feed (249-325 Govan Rd). This weekly street food festival takes place in a large warehouse on Govan Road, where a changing rotation of food trucks from across the country park up and get cooking. With a fully-stocked bar, live music, arcade games and so much good food to try, it’s easy to spend hours here.

The newest addition to the Cessnock area is Kitchen Glasgow (11 North Gower St), a popular bakery serving delicate patisserie favourites, breakfast options, breads and pizzas. While around the corner the city’s best Lebanese food can be found in the heaving plates of mezze at Beirut Star (450 Paisley Rd W). Similarly high quality, low price food can be found near the Glasgow Mosque in the Gorbals in the form of highly rated Afghan food at Namak Mandi (17-23 Bridge St), Middle Eastern cuisine in Palmtree Kitchen (22 Bridge St) and sweets from Turkey in Istanbul Cakes and Baklawas (63 Bridge St).

Photo: Vishnu Prasad

Nearby, Babylon Supermarket (3-5 Commerce St) is a large supermarket well stocked with Middle Eastern and Mediterranean ingredients and even an in-house bakery. Aladdin’s (45 Commerce St) is similarly good for hard-to-find ingredients.

For coffee in Cessnock, check out the sustainable focused The Good Coffee Cartel (12 Cornwall St) cafe and on-site roastery, while in the Gorbals, vegan joint Zilch Bakery & Deli (124 Norfolk St) serve up a frankly astounding range of plant-based food, from NY cheesecake to charcuterie.

This part of town also does a roaring trade in good old-fashioned pubs. Home to two of the city’s very best: The Laurieston (58 Bridge St) and The Old Toll Bar (1 Paisley Rd W). The former is a Glasgow city icon, appearing in pop art prints, photography exhibitions and even a Fratellis music video, and The Old Toll Bar dates back to the 1800s. Refurbished in 2017, the bones of the place remain the same, now with added cocktails and comedy nights.

Things to do

Glasgow Science Centre (50 Pacific Quay) is an immersive educational experience for all the family, with its cheerful interactive exhibits in a futuristic architectural space. If you’re feeling brave, visit Ibrox Stadium (150 Edmiston Dr); one of the oldest football stadiums in Europe (built in 1874), it’s home to Glasgow Rangers. During the off-season in the summer, daily stadium tours are available.

The area is bookended by the exquisite Govan Old Parish Church (866 Govan Rd). Free to the public, the site has been home to a church since the 6th century and houses the famous Norse carved Govan stones, dating back to 870AD.

For a more energetic day, a large section of repurposed warehouses, a short distance from Kinning Park tube station, host a number of active pursuits. Choose from roller rinks (Roller Stop CIC, 139 Middlesex St), crazy golf (Fore Play, 124 Portman St) or pilates studios (The Yoga & Pilates Place, 32 Portman St).

Photo: Fredrika Carlsson

Photo: Stephen O'Donnell

Daytripping

Photo: Phoebe Willison

Daytripping

Cycling near Dumbarton

Once you’ve explored the centre, venture outside Glasgow’s city limits and you’ll find the islands, castles and cities of Scotland within easy reach

Words: Laurie Presswood

If you’re in town long enough, take advantage of Glasgow’s position on the central belt and hit the road to the islands/Highlands/Lowlands or anywhere in between. Since you’re already on the west coast, make your first mission to see some water. Head for the hills just north of Glasgow to visit Loch Lomond (of song fame) and the Trossachs National Park. Although great for camping, cycling and walking, try ferry rides on Lochs Lomond and Katrine for the most exciting view of the landscapes. Just to the west, you can follow the Clyde Sea Loch Trail, which takes you around the beautiful tidal inlets of the Firth of Clyde. The route passes through Helensburgh, where you can visit the Charles Rennie Mackintoshdesigned Hill House mansion, and ends at Dumbarton Castle, an Iron Age stronghold nestled in the dramatic volcanic basalt of Dumbarton Rock. If you have strong seafaring legs, the west coast has a never-ending supply of islands to explore. From Largs you can head out to Cumbrae, which you may hear called Millport after the island’s sole town. Hiring bikes (for one, two, or seven passengers) is a Millport rite of passage, but watch out for cars as you’re passing the ferry terminal! Bute (accessible via Wemyss Bay) plays host to Mount Stuart, a striking neo-gothic mansion built in the late 19th century, while you can catch the ferry to Arran from Ardrossan to enjoy the island that some call “Scotland in miniature” (it’s easy to see why – after all, it does have hills, castles, golf and whisky).

Fancy a swim? Ayrshire’s the place for you – with 84 miles of coastline, there’s a beach for everyone. Troon and Ayr itself are easily accessible by public transport, or head for Dunure Beach to bathe under the ruins of Dunure Castle. Alternatively, if you like swimming but are scared you might bump into a basking shark, the Gourock Outdoor Pool is a heated saltwater lido with breathtaking views across the Firth of Clyde. Get food on Kempock Street afterwards and revel in the beauty of the seaside. Daytripping from Glasgow doesn’t have to include water though (witches breathe a sigh of relief); on the west coast alone you’re spoilt for choice with cultural and historical landmarks. Back in Ayrshire there’s a wealth of museums and monuments dedicated to Scotland’s Bard – in his birthplace of Alloway you can find the Robert Burns Birthplace Museum, Burns Cottage and Burns Monument. The spectacular Culzean Castle sits a little further down the coast, perched on the cliffs, surrounded by its sprawling grounds and deer park. For a middle-aged castle with a modern twist, visit the Kelburn Country Estate, where you’ll find a 16th century castle that has been covered in graffiti by a team of leading Brazilian graffiti artists and local Scottish talent – the result is quite dramatic. If you want to learn more about Scotland’s history, David Livingstone Birthplace in Blantyre attempts a balanced examination of the life of the Scottish explorer. Its Photo: Ross Sneddon exhibits present Livingstone against the backdrop of Victorianera Scotland, and use him as a vehicle through which to educate about Scotland’s industrial past as well as its role in colonialism. Moving further south, New Lanark, one of Scotland’s six UNESCO World Heritage Sites, is an 18th century mill-village of striking proportions. It’s accessible via local coach from Lanark bus station, or direct from Buchanan Street – details for both services can be retrieved by calling Stuart’s Coaches on 01555 773533. In the centre of Scotland lies Stirling, one of Scotland’s ancient capitals. Stirling is just a

half-hour train journey from Glasgow, and is built around what we will, perhaps controversially, name ‘Scotland’s Best Castle’. Take the tour, and be invited to sit on a reconstruction of the King’s throne, or stand on the battlements and look out over miles of historic battlefields as the wind whips through your hair and you pretend to be in an episode of Outlander. Scotland’s modern-day capital, Edinburgh, is within easy striking distance of Glasgow – a mere 50 minutes by train from Queen Street Station. It’s full of historic hills and mounds to climb, and beautiful views to reward you when you do. Investigate the galleries and museums scattered across the centre, or mosey into the various and distinct neighbourhoods to shop and appreciate the architecture (Dean Village is relatively central, and generally less saturated with tourists than spots like the castle). As August approaches, the city will play host to the famed Edinburgh festivals, which will see thousands of visitors return to see shows across the Edinburgh International Festival, Fringe, Art and Book festivals among others. Even if you don’t want to take in a show, a trip through is worth it for the atmosphere alone – food trucks, street performers, and a 5am clubbing licence are just some of the attractions of Edinburgh in August. For a more in-depth guide around the capital, check out The Skinny Guide to

Edinburgh Edinburgh on issuu.com/theskinny, or for a dissection of the city’s festival offerings, pick up a copy of our sister publication Fest (issuu.com/festmag). If you’re willing to travel just a little further (an hour and a half on the train), and would like to investigate one of Scotland’s smaller cities, head for Dundee. Upon walking out of the station you’ll immediately be struck by Scotland’s first design museum – the V&A Dundee sits centrally among such other features of the city’s waterfront as the RRS Discovery, Jannettas Gelateria and the striking Tay Whale sculpture. For a proper expedition into the city, you can grab some fish and chips and head for the top of the Law (fish and chips optional), or head down the Perth Road stopping at every pub, shop and gallery along the way.

Photo: Alex Azabache

Daytripping

Beat of My Drum

For years, the work of electronic music pioneer Janet Beat went unnoticed, but acknowledgments from Glasgow’s Tectonics festival and gender equality charity SWIM are drawing attention to her innovative work

Words: Nadia Younes

2022 marks big anniversaries for some notable names in Scotland’s electronic music scene: the infamous Glasgow venue Sub Club celebrates its 35th birthday, iconic club night Optimo (Espacio) marks its 25th anniversary, and revered record label LuckyMe turns 15. But for its 2022 edition, Glasgow’s Tectonics festival chose to celebrate a lesser-known but equally influential individual in Scottish electronic music.

Janet Beat is widely regarded as a pioneer in electronic music, and not only for her own compositions and musical scores. Born in Streetly, Staffordshire in 1937, Beat was interested in music from a young age. In an interview with Manchester-based composer Caro C for the British Music Collection, Beat said that she wrote her first piano piece at just three years old and bought her first tape machine in her late teens.

She began her musical studies at the Birmingham Conservatoire, where she studied piano and horn, before graduating with a Bachelor’s degree in music from Birmingham University and then completing a Masters in early Italian Opera. In 1972, she relocated to Scotland and began lecturing at the Royal Scottish Academy of Music and Drama, now known as the Royal Conservatoire of Scotland. During this time, Beat was responsible for setting up the school’s electronic music and recording studios, featuring a range of equipment, including ring modulators, low pass filters, and signal generators.

Throughout this time, Beat was also composing her own music, but it wasn’t until August last year – at the age of 83 – that she released her first official album, the aptly-titled Pioneering Knob Twiddler. Released on Trunk Records, both digitally and on vinyl, the album includes seven of Beat’s own compositions made between 1978-1987, using synthesisers, tape machines, and acoustic instruments.

Up until this point, Beat’s compositions – along with her published works, scores, and cassette recordings – had only been available through the British Music Collection’s

Image: courtesy of British Music Collection

Glasgow Clubs

Janet Beat

archive. Like fellow early pioneers in electronic composition, such as Delia Derbyshire and Daphne Oram – the latter of whom was a supporter of Beat – much of her work went unnoticed for many years; perhaps even more so than some of her peers.

But Beat’s legacy has finally started to gain recognition in recent years. In 2019, she became the first recipient of the Scottish Women in Music (SWIM) Lifetime Achievement Award for her work in pushing forward electronic music and composition, with the award now named after her. One of SWIM’s founders, Hilary Brooks, says that Beat was “the obvious choice” for the gender equality charity’s first Lifetime Achievement Award. Brooks first discovered Beat and her work as a student at the Royal Scottish Academy of Music & Drama, where Beat briefly taught her Harmony and Counterpoint, instilling a love of harmony in her. “Janet was a very early supporter of [SWIM],” she says. “She attended lots of meetings and, without hesitation, shared many an anecdote with fellow members about her experiences of being a woman composer in music – good and appalling. She is a survivor and an inspiration.”

Much of Beat’s work – specifically her interest in microtonal music and stereophonic sound – was initially met with resistance, not in any small part due to the fact that she was a woman creating music in a male-dominated field. However, through her willingness to take risks and go against the status quo, her work has been incredibly influential in advancing electronic music, not just in Scotland but across the world. It just goes to show that dancing to the beat of your own drum does, sometimes, pay off.

“She is a survivor and an inspiration”

Hilary Brooks, SWIM

Music Sounds of the City

Live like a local and immerse yourself in Glasgow’s music communities by way of their indie record shops and community radio stations

Interview: Tallah Brash

If you’ve landed in Glasgow because of its UNESCO City of Music status, or you’re just here, well, because, and you happen to be a big ol’ fan of music, then a great way to throw yourself into the local scene is by checking out its independent record shops and

by listening to its community-run radio stations.

Monorail Music (12 Kings Court, King St), housed in cafe, bar and gig venue Mono in the Merchant City, is a good jumping off point; the shop is run by The Pastels’ Stephen McRobbie, with its core staff made up of various local band members and indie record label owners. In complementary fashion, you’ll find glorious vinyl of every genre here, with a strong selection of Scottish artists, past, present and future.

Image: courtesy of Radio Benua Vida

The staff of Some Great Reward (520 Victoria Rd), a record shop and cafe in the city’s Southside, can also be found playing in bands or running club nights, and if you’re looking for a Scottish record to add to your collection they can help with that too. What’s more, online radio station Radio Buena Vida has been broadcasting from the shop’s front window since October 2020.

DJ Superherb (Full Dose Records) at Radio Buena Vida

With a strong focus on the local community, Radio Buena Vida co-founder Suz O’Neill tells us about the shows you can expect to hear on the station: “From the outset we wanted to ensure that the music we play on the station

Image: courtesy of Radio Benua Vida

Music

Aroma on Air at Radio Buena Vida

represents the diversity of music being made, played and listened to across the city, so you will hear a wide range of genres, from amapiano, gqom, post-punk, new wave and techno to hip-hop, dubstep, breaks, bass, jazz, rap, soul, Jersey club and more.

“Shows from rap/production duo Washington and Papi Moses and hip-hop/grime producer/musician duo Praize 4G and Rosái shine a spotlight on Scottish independent artists.” O’Neill continues: “Sound designers Anna Pluto and Kairogen’s shows deliver a series of sonic journeys; DJ Pearl Necklace brings his signature vogue and club, DJ Superherb features leftfield dub releases from his Glasgow label Full Dose, DJ Farnaz hits hard with techno, ISO YSO explores computer game and orchestral scores, and Faye from Some Great Reward has a metal show.”

As is to be expected, a lot of the station’s show hosts also run their own club nights and put on their own gigs in the city. For an out-of-towner, it can be hard to know where’s best to go out, especially if your goal is to ‘live like a local’ while you’re visiting. Based on the station’s programming, we ask O’Neill for some city centre recommendations on where to check out for gigs and clubs. “That’s a tough one to answer,” she says, “there are so many! Bonzai Bonner’s programming at The Berkeley Suite (237 North St), including Optimistic Soul’s Africa Is Now night, and VAJ.Power’s programming at Stereo (22-28 Renfield Ln), including the A Cut Above nights, stand out as being particularly exciting and diverse right now. We’re also excited to see what resident Joe Unknown will do in his new programming role at Nice N Sleazy (421 Sauchiehall St).

In the coming months, Radio Buena Vida will continue broadcasting to passers by in the Govanhill area, however soon it will be from their own cafe and event space across the street from their current home. “We are eternally grateful to Some Great Reward for their generosity in allowing us to broadcast from their window,” O’Neill says. “Thanks to their incredible support we are now moving onto our next adventure.”

Further community radio can be found in Glasgow at Clyde Built Radio, Govan’s Sunny G Community Radio and Subcity Radio, which has been broadcasting in the city since 1995.

For more info on Radio Buena Vida, head to buenavida.co.uk

Image: courtesy of Radio Benua Vida

Optimistic Soul at Radio Buena Vida Glasgow City Guide

Glasgow's Past Walking Back

We speak with CRER about anti-racism, walking through local history, and the importance of understanding Glasgow’s past

Interview: Eilidh Akilade Illustration: Nänni-pää

“If you have that understanding of the past and of how we’ve ended up with institutional racism, you’re more likely to be able to counter institutional racism and fight against it in the present day as well,” explains Nelson Cummins, Communities and Campaigns Officer at CRER (Coalition for Racial Equality and Rights). The anti-racist organisation seeks to promote the rights of Black and minority ethnic communities across Scotland and eliminate racial harrassment and prejudice. Its historical walking tours of Glasgow – organised by Cummins and led by himself and colleague Yasmin Luqman – are key to this work. CRER’s walking tours map Glasgow’s history with colonialism, slavery, and abolition by taking participants around the city – the statue of David Livingstone, the Gallery of Modern Art, and High Street, to name a few stops. They’ve got a history of their own, running for a couple of decades, having been started back when CRER was known as the Glasgow Anti-Racist Alliance. Now the tours run once a week during October (the UK’s Black History Month) and upon request during the rest of the year, usually for education or work groups.

Primarily, the tours “explore the ties between Glasgow and transatlantic slavery, particularly in the wealth that’s come into the city of Glasgow historically,” explains Cummins. “Scottish people were very active partners in the British Empire as well.” Scottish exceptionalism – the misguided notion that Scotland is less racist and was less involved in colonialism and enslavement than other nations in the past – all too often rears its ugly head. CRER’s walking tours are key to giving a fuller picture, one in which Scots aren’t portrayed as the innocent bystanders they never were. The tours also look to the abolition of slavery: the Black abolitionists who came to speak in Glasgow, as well as the abolition movments that existed within the city itself. It’s crucial that Glasgow’s complex history is seen in full.

A lot of Glasgow’s past (usually, the colonial parts) is too often glossed over in our education system. In almost every Scottish history textbook, Glasgow is heralded the ‘second city of the Empire’. The Clyde becomes something of a legend; the tenements home to the masses. However, there’s rarely little acknowledgement of what that title meant then and what it means now. Back then, Glasgow played an active role in the British Empire’s colonialism; now, the city continues to benefit from the wealth brought in by such violence.

Those who participate in the tours, some having lived here their whole lives, say that they learned a lot about Glasgow. “They find it quite

empowering,” Cummins says. “I think it can help to strengthen people’s connections with the city.” Glaswegians ought to know their own history – of how their city came to be, of what really went on here. Anti-racism, in the here and now, demands this greater understanding.

It’s important to note that CRER’s walking tours aren’t the only way to engage with this history, Cummins explains. The information is out there and it’s easily accessible online, in documentaries, in books, and in academic papers. It’s the same material that CRER engages with itself, updating and re-updating the tours as new research comes out.

“In any Black history work and any anti-racist work, the importance of local histories can’t be missed,” Cummins says. CRER’s walking tours are testament to this. In journeying through our collective local history, through Glasgow’s streets, we may better understand our past and our present.

See crer.org.uk for further information on CRER and find out more about the walking tours at blackhistorymonthscotland.org/ whats-on/crer-walking-tours

By Jimmy, aged 7

Glasgow for Kids

It’s not all about the grown ups. The city has plenty of things for the kids to do, see, and eat

Words: Eilidh Akilade Illustrations: Jimmy, aged 7 and Eric, aged 4

Indoors

Something never gets old about climbing into a 20th century bus, plonking yourself down in the drivers’ seat, and pressing all the buttons at once. The Riverside Museum (100 Pointhouse Rd) allows you (and the kids) this unbridled joy. This transport museum is home to numerous historic vehicles and the much-loved old Glasgow street scene. The Zaha Hadid-designed building itself is something of an architectural wonder, and will have the kids asking all the questions you can’t quite answer – such as, how did they get all those bikes up there? Speaking of big questions, the Glasgow Science Centre (50 Pacifi c Quay) does a pretty good job of answering them. Games, illusions, interactive exhibitions – it’s educational, of course, but also really fun, easy to explore, and makes for great photos.

For rainy days (of which there are plenty) the Glasgow Film Theatre (GFT) (12 Rose St) is obviously a must. Specifi cally, at the weekly Take 2 family fi lms, tickets are free for every child under the age of 14 and one accompanying adult. There’s also Take 2 Access, the GFT’s monthly neurodivergentfriendly family fi lm.

Another classic is The Time Capsule (100 Buchanan St, Coatbridge), quite frankly something of a Glaswegian legend for kids. There’s fl umes, riptides, a wave pool, and, not forgetting, a huge tipping bucket that pours over swimmers every now and then. It’s also ideal for a range of ages, with areas for younger kids that are a little less heavy on the waves.

To let loose even further, Flip Out (89A Southcroft Rd) is the trampoline park of the moment. There’s also Ryze (120 Portman St) and Gravity over at Xsite (King’s Inch Rd), so there’s plenty of parks to choose from.

For a slightly chiller vibe, Roller Stop (139 Middlesex St), Glasgow’s only roller skating rink, seems just about the coolest place for any kid to spend a Saturday afternoon. There’s good tunes, disco lights, and elbow and knee pads are always on offer. The rink also has an accessible roller disco with calmer lights, quieter music, and a few less skaters.

Outdoors

If the kids are more interested in skating outdoors, there’s lots of areas in the city’s West End that are especially ideal for this. Skaters – whether roller or board – can usually be found on Kelvin Walkway and just out the front of Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum (Argyle Street). With no cars but plenty of people around, both spots make for a day’s safe skate. Kelvingrove Park itself has its own skatepark, right next to the playpark, so it’s an ideal afternoon for kids of different ages and interests.

Of course, in terms of parks, the kids are spoiled for choice in Glasgow. For all things fossilised tree stumps, Fossil Grove in Victoria Park is the go-to. For all things highland cows, Pollok Country Park is the obvious (and

By Eric, aged 4

probably only) choice. Queen’s Park boasts a nice pond, football pitches, and glasshouses, but in the summer, it’s the Queen’s Park Arena that has all the buzz. With live music and an open air cinema, it feels like a very cool place to be, for children and adults alike.

Keeping things Southside, Rumpus Room (Landside Lane), an arts project and studio working with young people, children and families, is the kind of place you want to get involved with. Their yard is where it’s at: pottery, painting, woodwork, and a pizza oven – the list goes on. With a strong focus on social action, it’s a great space to get kids thinking a bit more about the world around them and have fun while doing so.

Over in the West End, the Anti-Racist Community Library (Millenium Park, Ashley St) has a range of books for children, young people and adults. The stall is held fortnightly on Sundays from 11am to 1pm. It’s a great way to engage kids with anti-racism early on and the outdoor setting makes for a more relaxed library.

Similarly, tucked away in the West End, The Children’s Wood (76 Kelbourne St) is the last wild space in the area. Maintained by the local community, the wood is free to use for just about whatever. There’s great play materials for the kids – tyres, a treehouse, old pots and pans – and some more open grassy areas perfect for community gatherings. It’s truly a space to be cherished.

To eat

For something a little sweet, Mrs Mitchell’s Sweetie Shop (117 Trongate) is ever so nostalgic and has all the strawberry sherbets a kid could dream of. Alternatively, ice cream parlour Minted (262 Byres Rd) has all the classic fl avours, as well as the more over-the-top ones sought after by ten year olds. The staff are lovely, the booths are comfy, and the ice cream doubles up as a perfect hangover cure for adults too.

If you’re wanting lunch and then ice cream, The Brooklyn Cafe (21-23 Minard Rd) is ideal for families. The Shawlands-based cafe has been there for decades, continuously serving up good paninis and some of the city’s best vanilla ice cream. For something a little more fi lling, you can’t go wrong with Paesano Pizza (94 Miller St, 471 Great Western Road). You’ve heard it all before, but it’s popular for a reason. The atmosphere is always lively and the Neapolitan pizzas are served quickly so there’s no long waits for the kids. It simply never misses.

Glasgow Zine Library Do It Yourself

We chat with LD, the director of Glasgow Zine Library, about the radical potential of zine-making, and why Glasgow is the perfect city to do it

Interview: Anahit Behrooz

Tell me about how Glasgow Zine Library got started? We waded into the whole thing relatively slowly: a small zine fair at The Old Hairdressers became a zine fair plus a small programme of events, until we outgrew our venue and moved to the CCA. Over the years, we collected about 300 zines from the fair; after doing a few events where we had our collection on display for people to read, we decided to start a library.

What is it about zines that drew you to them? How do

“Glasgow is a place where things feel possible, and that’s very special”

LD, Glasgow Zine Library

they intersect with the ethos of community and radical practice that the library has built itself around? I found my footing in a small town in Illinois that had DIY cassette labels, zines made in people’s living rooms, and a general drive to put something out into the world regardless of how many people might see it. DIY was the glue that held us together. When I moved to Glasgow, I brought a piece of that town with me.

What drew me to zines as a teen was the non-skilled point of entry. I didn’t need to be able to draw or to have written the great American novel to be able to put something down on paper. For me, that’s the crux of this work: to allow people to try something new in a supportive environment. Zines are a unique medium because they’re very open and accessible; we use that as the foundation of everything that we do, from how people can read our collection to how they can take part in our events.

Is there a particular Scottish radical history in zines that you’re drawing on? What we really drew on when we started the festival and eventually the library was the history of DIY spaces in Glasgow. I’d read Dr Sarah Lowndes’ book Social Sculpture, which details the rise of artist-led, autonomous arts initiatives in the city, and I knew that I wanted to become part of that. The music scene, artist-led spaces, indie publishing and bookshops; all of these paved the way for organisations like ours to jump in and roll up our sleeves.

What advice do you have for people who want to get into zine-making or this kind of radical community-building? I think anyone interested in making zines shouldn’t fear the blank page. Doing the first one of anything can be daunting, but zines are a forgiving medium. If you’re looking for inspiration, there are zine libraries, fests and collections that will show you the breadth of what’s possible. If you need some instruction, there are workshops and online tutorials. In terms of community work, it can be difficult: it’s often bureaucratic, finding-penniesin-the-couch-cushions kind of work. At GZL, we talk a lot about unsexy jobs like liaising garbage pickup with the council. It doesn’t all get to be seeing people’s faces light up as they turn their idea into a physical thing, but every task is vital to keeping things going. We’ve learned a lot by doing, and also by having a team of people with varied experience and a broad range of knowledge. I think more than anything else, you have to love doing it.

What is it about Glasgow that you think lends itself to this kind of radical work? Its location, the amount of artists who settle here, its history, and its position as a huge cultural city outwith London create the perfect conditions for radical work. Glasgow is a place where things feel possible, and that’s very special – it’s a city with a long history of collective action, community work, and a huge drive to create.

Grassroots Arts

Glasgow is a city of activists. Here are some of the other organisations, art spaces, and grassroots initiatives building social and creative communities in the city.

Dardishi Dardishi is an arts project dedicated to cultural work created by Arab and North African women and gender minorities. Co-founded and run by Glasgow-based Samar Ziadat, Dardishi is perhaps best known for its annual festival featuring screenings, workshops, and performance at the CCA, as well as its beautifully curated and produced zines and year-round events programme.

Kinning Park Complex The heart of Glasgow’s activist community is its diverse and colourful Southside, where Kinning Park Complex is located. Having started out as a school, the Complex has been a community centre for several decades, and has been protected from closure by its loyal neighbours and campaigners, who staged an occupation in 1996 to keep it in the hands of the community. Today, the space hosts workshops, local events and a community kitchen.

Govanhill Baths A listed Edwardian public bathhouse housed in Glasgow’s Govanhill neighbourhood, Govanhill Baths was once slated for closure but was saved by occupations from the local community (can you sense a theme emerging?). The bathhouse’s pools and Turkish baths are currently being restored and are set to reopen later this year; for the non-swimmers out there, the bathhouse runs a yearlong programme of community workshops, festivals, and exhibitions.

Outspoken Arts The legacy of Glasgay! Festival, established in 1993 as a direct response to Section 28, Outspoken Arts today works with communities across various protected characteristics, bringing together a programme of creative events in Paisley and beyond. Their new exhibition space The Art Department in Paisley offers everything from printmaking to pottery classes, while their big open-call exhibition The Big Art Show is set to open in Autumn 2022

City Centre CC

Merchant City, Trongate MCT East End EE West End WE North N

Finnieston, Partick FP Southside S

Gorbals, Kinning Park, Cessnock, Govan GKC

Bars

Arta 62 Albion St MCT Babbity Bowster 16-18 Blackfriars St MCT Bananamoon 360 Great Western Rd WE Bar 91 91 Candleriggs MCT Bar Soba 11 Mitchell Ln CC Bier Halle 9 Gordon St CC Bonjour 37-45 Saltmarket MCT Brel 37-42 Ashton Ln WE Broadcast 427 Sauchiehall St CC Chinaski’s 239 North St FP Delmonicas 68 Virginia St MCT DRAM! 232 Woodlands Rd WE Drygate 85 Drygate EE Dukes Bar 41 Old Dumbarton Rd FP Heraghty’s 708 Pollokshaws Rd S Hillhead Bookclub 17 Vinicombe St WE Katie’s Bar 17 John St MCT Koelschip Yard 686 Pollokshaws Rd S Maggie May’s 60 Trongate MCT Max’s Bar & Grill 73 Queen St CC Merchant Square 71 Albion St MCT Minnesota Fats 1053-1055 Cathcart Rd S Mono 12 Kings Ct MCT Nice N Sleazy 421 Sauchiehall St CC Palais 380 Duke St EE Rufus T Firefly 207 Hope St CC Saramago Cafe and Bar, CCA 350 Sauchiehall St CC Star Bar 537-539 Eglinton St S Stereo 22-28 Renfield Ln CC Strathduie Bar 3-5 Blackfriars St MCT Tabac 10 Mitchell Ln CC The 13th Note 50-60 King St MCT The Allison Arms 720 Pollokshaws Rd S The Arlington 130 Woodlands Rd WE The Belle 617 Great Western Rd WE The Botany 795 Maryhill Rd N The BrewHaus (fka Crosslands) 182 Queen Margaret Dr N The Clutha 169 Stockwell St MCT The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram St MCT The Dolphin 157 Dumbarton Rd FP The Doublet 74 Park Rd WE The Flying Duck 42 Renfield St CC The Horseshoe Bar 17-19 Drury Ln CC The Hug and Pint 171 Great Western Rd WE The Laurieston 58 Bridge St GKC The Old Hairdresser’s Renfield Ln CC The Old Toll Bar 1 Paisley Rd W GKC The Pot Still 154 Hope St CC The Scotia 112 Stockwell St MCT The Smiddy 309 Dumbarton Rd FP The Sparklehorse 16 Dowanhill St FP The State Bar 148-184a Holland St CC The Thornwood 724 Dumbarton Rd FP The Three Judges 141 Dumbarton Rd FP The Underground 6A John St MCT The Variety Bar 401 Sauchiehall St CC Tramway 25 Albert Dr S WEST 15 Binnie Pl EE

Bookshops

A1 Toys 31 Parnie St MCT Aye Aye Books, CCA 350 Sauchiehall St CC Burning House Books 446 Cathcart Rd S Caledonia Books 483 Great Western Rd WE Category Is Books 34 Allison St S Good Press 32 St Andrew St EE Mount Florida Books 1069 Cathcart Rd S Outwith Books 14 Albert Dr S Oxfam Bookshop 330 Byres Rd WE Ripe Barras Market, Moncur St EE tell it slant 134 Renfrew St CC The Passenger Press 24 St Andrews St EE Voltaire and Rousseau 12 Otago Ln WE

Cafes & Bakeries

Banh Mi & Tea 340 Dumbarton Rd FP Bee’s Knees Cafe 83 Bowman St S Cafe D’Jaconelli 570 Maryhill Rd N Cafe Gandolfi 64 Albion St MCT Cafe Strange Brew 1082 Pollokshaws Rd S Celino’s 620 Alexandra Pde EE Comet Pieces 150 Queen Margaret Dr N Cottonrake Bakery 497 Great Western Rd WE Dear Green 13-27 E Campbell St EE East Coffee Company 30 Hillfoot St EE Gordon Street Coffee 79 Gordon St CC Grain and Grind 742 Pollokshaws Rd S Kaf 5 Hyndland St FP Kelvin Pocket 72 S Woodside Rd WE Kelvingrove Café 1161 Argyle St FP Kitchen Glasgow 11 North Gowar Street GKC Kothel 536 Great Western Rd WE

Laboratorio Espresso 93 W Nile St CC Mackintosh at the Willow 215-217 Sauchiehall St CC Mayze 394 Argyle St FP Mesa 567 Duke St EE Milk 452 Victoria Rd S North Star Cafe 108 Queen Margaret Dr N Ocho 8 Speirs Wharf N Outlier 38 London Rd EE Papercup 603 Great Western Rd WE Plantyful 3 Osborne St MCT Rawnchy 98 Bellgrove St EE Riverhill Coffee Bar 24 Gordon St CC Saramago Cafe and Bar, CCA 350 Sauchiehall St CC Scherezade 47 Bank St WE Scran 594 Alexandra Pde EE Serenity Now 380 Great Western Rd WE Short Long Black 501 Victoria Rd S Silk Road Deli 34 Minard Rd S Singl-end 263 Renfrew St CC Singl-end 15 John St MCT Sprigg 241 Ingram St MCT Sweet Jane 434 Duke St EE Tantrum Doughnuts 28 Gordon St CC Tapa Coffee & Bakehouse 19-21 Whitehill St EE Tchai-Ovna House of Tea 18 Otago Ln WE Tennent’s Bar 191 Byres Rd WE Tinderbox 189 Byres Rd WE The Brooklyn Cafe 21-23 Minard Rd S Transylvania Coffee Shop 462 Victoria Rd S University Cafe 87 Byres Rd WE Wild Flours East 553 Duke St EE Zennor 354 Duke St EE

Cinemas

Glasgow Film Theatre (GFT) 12 Rose St CC

Clothes Shops

De Courcy’s Arcade 5-21 Cresswell Ln WE Minted 105 Kings Ct MCT Mr Ben 6 Kings Ct MCT Starry Starry Night 19 Dowanside Ln WE The Blankfaces 427 Great Western Rd WE The City Retro Fashion 41 King St MCT West Vintage 95 King St MCT

Food & Drink Shops

Aladdin’s 45 Commerce St GKC Babylon Supermarket 3-5 Commerce St GKC Locavore 449 Dumbarton Rd FP Lupe Pinto’s 313 Great Western Rd WE Roots, Fruits and Flowers 455 Great Western Rd WE SeeWoo 29 Saracen St N

Food On-the-go

Baked 120 Duke St EE Beirut Star 450 Paisley Rd W GKC Brawsome Bagels 292 Dumbarton Rd FP Falafel To Go 116 Sauchiehall St CC Glasgow Sweet Centre 202 Allison St S Hooked 1027 Cathcart Rd S Kurdish Street Food 12-14 Allison St S MacTasso’s Kelvin Way FP Minted 262 Byres Rd WE Mrs Falafel 1 Ashley St WE Mrs Mitchell's Sweetie 117 Trongate MCT Piece 100 Miller St MCT Shahed’s Takeaway 712 Pollokshaws Rd S Shawarma King 113 King St MCT

Galleries & Arts Venues

16 Nicholson St 16 Nicholson St GKC 20 Albert Road 20 Albert Rd S Carnival Arts Yard 124 Craighall Rd N Centre for Contemporary Arts (CCA) 350 Sauchiehall St CC Civic House 26 Civic St N David Dale Gallery & Studios 161 Broad St EE French Street 103-109 French St WE Goethe-Institute 3 Park Circus EE

Hunterian Gallery and Museum University of Glasgow, 82 Hillhead St WE Gallery of Modern Art 111 Queen St CC Glasgow Print Studio 103 Trongate MCT Glasgow School of Art’s Reid Building 164 Renfrew St CC Glasgow Sculpture Studios 2 Dawson Rd N Glasgow Women’s Library 23 Landressy St EE Govan Project Space 249 Govan Rd GKC Grey Wolf Studios 131 Craighall Rd N Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum Argyle St WE Kendall Koppe 36-38 Coburg GKC Kiosk Gallery 25 Prince Edward St S Listen Gallery 204 Hunter St EE Market Gallery 334 Duke St EE Mount Florida Gallery/ Studios 37 Clincart Rd S Project Ability 103 Trongate MCT The Alchemy Experiment 157 Byres Rd WE The Art Laundrette 39 Dalhousie St CC The Briggait 141 Bridgegate MCT The Burrell Collection Pollok Country Park (2060 Pollokshaws Rd) S The Common Guild 5 Florence St GKC

The Glasgow Gallery of Photography 57 Glassford St MCT The Glue Factory 15 Burns St N

The Lighthouse 11 Mitchell Ln CC The Modern Institute 14-20 Osborne St MCT The Old Hairdresser’s Renfield Ln CC The Whisky Bond 2 Dawson Rd N Tramway 25 Albert Dr S Transmission Gallery 28 King St MCT Trongate 103 103 Trongate MCT SaltSpace 270 High St MCT Sharmanka 103 Trongate MCT South Block 60-64 Osborne St MCT Street Level Photography Works 103 Trongate MCT

Homeware & Gift Shops

A1 Toys 31 Parnie St MCT Fireworks Studio Garnet Pots 35a Dalhousie St CC Ruthven Mews 57 Ruthven Ln WE Squid Ink Co 18 St Andrew St EE Submarine 8 Kent St EE Wild Gorse Pottery 684 Pollokshaws Rd S

Markets & Shopping Centres

Argyll Arcade 30 Buchanan St CC Buchanan Galleries 220 Buchanan St CC Merchant Square 71 Albion St MCT

Park Lane Market 974 Pollokshaws Rd S Platform 253 Argyle St CC Princes Square Buchanan St CC St Enoch Centre 55 St Enoch Sq CC The Barras Market 242 Gallowgate EE The Big Feed 249-325 Govan Rd GKC The Big Zero Waste Market The Deep End, 21 Nithsdale St S The Italian Centre 7 John St MCT The Savoy Centre 140 Sauchiehall St CC Zero Waste Market 17 Hillfoot St EE

Record Shops

FOPP 19 Union St CC Love Music 34 Dundas St CC Mixed Up 18 Otago Ln WE Monorail Music 12 Kings Ct MCT Oxfam Music 171 Byres Rd WE Some Great Reward 520 Victoria Rd S

Restaurants

Bar Soba 11 Mitchell Ln CC Basta 561 Dumbarton Rd FP Battlefield Rest 55 Battlefield Rd S Bibimbap 3 W Nile St CC Bread Meats Bread 65 St Vincent St CC Brutti Compadres 3 Virginia Ct MCT Cafe Cossachok 10 King St MCT Celentano’s 28-32 Cathedral Sq EE Celino’s 620 Alexandra Pde EE Celino’s 235 Dumbarton Rd FP Crabshakk 114 Argyle St FP Dumpling Monkey 121 Dumbarton Rd FP Eighty Eight 88 Dumbarton Rd FP El Perro Negro 152 Woodlands Rd WE Errol's Hot Pizza 379 Victoria Rd S Eusebi Deli 152 Park Rd WE Five March 140 Elderslie St FP Ga Ga 566 Dumbarton Rd FP Gloriosa 1321 Argyle St FP Halloumi 697 Pollokshaws Rd S Hanoi Bike Shop 8 Ruthven Ln WE Inn Deep 445 Great Western Rd WE Julie’s Kopitiam 1109 Pollokshaws Rd Ka Pao 26 Vinicombe St WE Kimchi Cult 14 Chancellor St WE Little Hoi An 26 Allison St S Maki & Ramen 21 Bath St CC Max’s Bar & Grill 73 Queen St CC Merchant Square 71 Albion St MCT Mezcal 104 Hope St CC Mono 12 Kings Ct MCT Mother India 28 Westminster Terr FP Nanakusa 441 Sauchiehall St CC New Anand 76 Nithsdale Rd S Niven’s 72 Nithsdale Rd S Non Viet 536 Sauchiehall St CC Osteria 17 John St MCT Paesano 94 Miller St MCT Paesano 471 Great Western Rd WE Panang 71-72 St Vincent St CC Pizza Punks 90 St Vincent St CC Rafa’s 1103 The Hidden Ln FP Ranjit’s Kitchen 607 Pollokshaws Rd S Rockvilla Pizza 6 Possil Rd N Sacred Tum Tacos 522 Victoria Rd S Sarti 121 Bath St CC Sarti 133 Wellington St CC Slice 15 John St MCT Stereo 22-28 Renfield Ln CC Sugo 70 Mitchell St CC Tabac 10 Mitchell Ln CC Te Seba 393 Great Western Rd WE The 13th Note 50-60 King St MCT The Botany 795 Maryhill Rd N

The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram St MCT The Finnieston 1125 Argyle St FP The Flying Duck 142 Renfield St CC The Hug and Pint 171 Great Western Rd WE The Rum Shack 657-659 Pollokshaws Rd S Thundercat 80 Miller St MCT Ting Thai Caravan 19 W Nile St CC Topolobamba 89 St Vincent St CC Ubiquitous Chip 12 Ashton Ln WE

Venues: Comedy Clubs

The Stand Comedy Club 333 Woodlands Rd WE

Venues: Live Music & Nightclubs

Arta 62 Albion St MCT AXM 90 Glassford St MCT Barrowland Ballroom 244 Gallowgate EE Broadcast 427 Sauchiehall St CC City Halls & Old Fruitmarket MCT Glasgow Royal Concert Hall 2 Sauchiehall St CC Gravitas 147 North St FP King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut 272A St Vincent St CC La Cheetah 73 Queen St CC Mono 12 Kings Ct MCT Nice N Sleazy 421 Sauchiehall St CC O2 Academy 121 Eglinton St GKC Òran Mór Top of Byres Rd WE Polo Lounge 84 Wilson St MCT Queen Margaret Union 22 University Gardens WE Room 2 69 Nelson Mandela Pl CC SEC Armadillo Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd FP SEC Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd FP St Luke’s & The Winged Ox 17 Bain St EE Stereo 22 Renfield Ln CC Sub Club 22 Jamaica St CC SWG3 100 Eastvale Pl FP The 13th Note 50-60 King St MCT The Berkeley Suite 237 North St FP The Briggait 141 Bridgegate MCT The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram St MCT The Flying Duck 142 Renfield St CC The Glad Cafe 1006A Pollokshaws Rd S The Glue Factory 15 Burns St N The Hug and Pint 171 Great Western Rd WE The Old Hairdresser’s Renfield Ln CC OVO Hydro Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd FP The Riding Room 58 Virginia St MCT The Whisky Bond 2 Dawson Rd N

Venues: Theatre & Dance

Centre for Contemporary Arts (CCA) 350 Sauchiehall St CC King’s Theatre 297 Bath St CC Sharmanka 103 Trongate MCT The Pavillion Theatre 121 Renfield St CC The Theatre Royal 282 Hope St CC Tramway 25 Albert Dr S Tron Theatre Company 63 Trongate MCT Webster’s Theatre 416 Great Western Rd WE

Visitor Attractions

Celtic Park Parkhead EE Prop Store 24 Craigmont St N Clydeside Distillery 100 Stobcross Rd FP Disc Golf Course Ruchill Park N Firhill Stadium 80 Firhill Rd N Glasgow Science Centre 50 Pacific Quay GKC Gorbals Southern Necropolis Caledonia Rd GKC Govan Old Parish Church 866 Govan Rd GKC Ibrox Stadium 150 Edmiston Dr GKC Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum Argyle St WE Loading Bay Skatepark Borron St N Mackintosh at the Willow 215-217 Sauchiehall St CC Pinkston Watersports 75 N Canal Bank St N Queen’s Cross Church 870 Garscube Rd N Riverside Museum 100 Pointhouse Rd FP Scotland Street School 225 Scotland St GKC The Children’s Wood and North Kelvin Meadow 76 Kelbourne St N The People’s Palace Glasgow Green, Templeton St EE

Photo: Liza Pooor

Art Bingo Art Bingo!

Explore the world-renowned ‘Glasgow Art Scene’ in all its forms with this handy bingo card!

Statue topped with a traffi c cone

David Shrigley’s greatest artwork, Kingsley

Christelle Oyiri and Human Threads at Tramway Alice Dansey Wright’s Artist Studio at Platform, Easterhouse

A Turner Prize winner*

The Glasgow School of Art George Wylie’s Monument to Maternity sculpture

Portrait of Billy Connolly

Exhibitions at Celine, in the front room of a Glasgow tenement

Explore Glasgow Zine Library Visit an artist-led space, eg Transmission, Market Gallery, Pipe Factory Hang out with the ‘art crowd’ at the Laurieston and queer bar and venue Bonjour

* Choose from Susan Phillipsz, Martin Boyce, Douglas Gordon, Martin Creed, Richard Wright, Charlotte Prodger