The Sharp End - Oct/Nov 2023 by thesharpendmagazine

THE

MAGAZINE

FOR

Industry outreach The pros of piercing booThs

PIERCING

PROFESSIONALS > oCT/NoV 2023

MIxIng It up Mixed-MeTal curaTion

the bIg debate old school vs new school

Shop all collections at

W W W . T I S H LY O N . C O M

tish_lyon tish_lyon_gold Tish Lyon Jewellery

Welcome to

As I write, the leaves are beginning to turn and tumble after a super busy end to the summer, with multiple industry events happening across the UK and beyond.

Louise Hoffman Founder and Editor-in-chief

Editor-in-chief louise Hoffman editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk Creative Director Craig John @craigjohnart to find out how to advertise in The Sharp End, please email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk Find us the-sharp-end.co.uk The Sharp End Magazine Cover image BVlA @thesharpend_magazine Get social – follow us Printed by Page Bros, Norwich

the editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement they express or advice they give in this publication. the opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the editor or publishers. All content including the presentation thereof in this magazine is the property of the editor and protected by international copyright laws. You may not copy, reproduce, distribute, transmit, modify, create derivative works, or in any other way exploit any part of copyrighted material without prior written permission from the editor. ©2023 Louise Hoffman

Editor’s lEttEr

Until then, wishing you peace, success and lots of sparkle this winter.

i know some of you managed to attend pretty much all of them – an impressive (and tiring) feat! For my part, i had a fantastic first visit to the UKAPP Conference in Manchester, with warm welcomes all round. it was great to meet and hang out with subscribers and advertisers in person – some for the first time! – and to welcome attendees to The Sharp End’s booth on the first day of the conference. the magazines went like hot cakes – in fact, i was completely cleaned out of all the boxes i had brought along! i hope those who picked up a copy or two enjoyed the read, and that everyone who attended the event had a fun and informative time. if you’re wondering what to do next with all the information gathered from the seminars and conversations over those three

days, turn to page 36 for advice from Becky Crossan. If you missed out, or if you’re already looking ahead to the next learning opportunity, turn to page 10 for a preview of the Wee scottish Piercing Expo, and to page 12 for a list of exciting dates for your diary. Before i let you get stuck into all of this issue’s inspo – from mixed-metal curation (page 14) to business rebranding (page 24) and industry archive goodness (page 38) – i just wanted to let you know that The Sharp End will now be taking a little winter break to recharge the batteries... but we’ll be back in February with a first anniversary issue to conjure with!

IMAGE: JAmIE Bolton @A.short.IntErlUdE

The Sh rp end

14_ Inside this issue

24_

30_

38_

14_ Mixing it up

Choose your pieces wisely and you can create a mixed-metal curation with the wow factor this autumn/winter season

06 _ News and views All the latest industry news and updates from the piercing community 12 _ Dates for your diary Don’t miss these exciting industry events taking place in the UK and further afield over the coming months

42 _ Working it After joining forces to work a piercing booth at the Big North Tattoo Show earlier this year, Nathan Hague, Sam Holmes, Rhyannon Smith and Megan Marsh tell us why the experience was so important 48 _ Ask the Piercing Piskie Our resident Agony Faery is here to provide some supernatural insight to answer your burning questions 50 _ End-note inspo Dobromir Georgiev, aka Dobs, reflects on the most pivotal moment of his career so far: stepping into the role of UK Head Piercer at Maria Black in London

CONTENTS

30 _ Talking point The second in our debate series sees one of the UK’s most experienced piercers, Rhianna Jones, and her apprentice-turned-pro Elin Sullivan discuss the old school vs the new school of the industry

38 _ Elusive ephemera pt 2 Paul King’s two-part history of piercing publications concludes with a look at the more recent titles that have graced the industry, beginning with the iconic Piercing World

24 _ Brand builders Three piercers tell us about the evolution of their studio identities, and how rebranding has helped them bring their business visions to reality

36 _ Agents of change Becky Crossan of the UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) has some sage advice for implementing change in your studio post-conference

newS nd viewS

All the latest industry news and updates from the piercing community

NeWS

SolStice celebrationS

Huge congratulations to Charlotte Lucy, who celebrated the first birthday of her Shrewsbury-based studio, Solstice Professional Piercing, on 30 September! “When I opened the doors to Solstice I wasn’t just opening a studio, I was opening a piercing-only studio that offered a luxury service and the first of its kind in Shropshire. My goal was to bring a more personal and luxury experience to body piercing, which is the type of thing you tend to get in big cities. After the closure of one of my favourite studios, my hometown needed something totally new and fresh – and voilà, Solstice was born!” To mark the milestone, Charlotte – a piercer of almost nine years – had her first commercial photoshoot. “I have grown so much as a piercer and a person during this time,” she says. “I am now fully disposable, stock the best of the best brands and have created something I am so proud of. “My plan for the next year is like many others: I want to expand my knowledge, expand my jewellery brands and also keep creating a safe and comfortable place for people to come and get pierced. I do have some exciting things in the works at the moment too, though – my biggest goal is to raise more awareness about living with disabilities and being a piercer, so yeah, watch this space!” @solsticepiercing

Big news fOr yOur industry magazine! Just before going to press with this issue, we heard that The Sharp End has been shortlisted for Launch of the Year in the British Society of Magazine Editors Awards 2023! The winner will be announced at the awards ceremony in November, so keep an eye on our social media channels to find out what happens. We’re up against stiff competition,

but honestly the nomination alone is just the biggest accolade we could have wished for. Not only is it recognition of the hard work and support that goes into this publication, but also a reflection of the professionalism and passion of the piercing industry as a whole – now fully recognised by the world in its own right.

A big thank you goes out to everybody who subscribes, reads, advertises and contributes – you are the lifeblood of The Sharp End.

Over tO yOu

new prOduct spOtlight Check out this barbedwire-style banger! It’s formed of a 1.2 x 10 BCR with a clip-in attachment made of niobium, which can also slide onto a seam ring or hinge ring if preferred. “90s edge at its finest!” says its creator, Stephen Clarke of Apex Hand Crafted Body Jewellery. @apex_piercing

As well as carrying important industry updates, these pages are the place for you, the piercing community, to shout about all of your achievements and developments. So, if for example your studio has held a charity fundraiser, celebrated an anniversary, carried out a refit or rebranding, won an award or hosted an event – please let us know! Likewise, we’d love to hear about any personal achievements, such as graduating apprentices. There’s a blog on our website with top tips for how to submit a winning piece of content, but at the end of the day, it’s the key details that count! Send your submissions to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk or tag us in your announcement on Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or Facebook (The Sharp End Magazine).

meeT the rep

preservative-free sterile saline piercing aftercare.

02. WhIch bRAnd dO YOu RepReSenT? NeilMed Piercing Aftercare UK division, as a lead sales manager.

05. WhAT dO YOu LOve MOST AbOuT WORkIng In ThIS InduSTRY? It’s the community; I have never been in an industry where my customers have so much passion to deliver such a high levelof service and duty of care to their clients.

03. WhAT dOeS YOuR bRAnd OFFeR? The leading natural, vegan and

06. hOW WOuLd YOu deScRIbe YOuR AppROAch TO cuSTOMeR SeRvIce? every day is different! I enjoy visiting studios and trade shows, and spending time on the phone with customers. I deal with any requirements that customers may have in a timely, efficient manner to meet their expectations.

04. WhAT neW deveLOpMenTS ARe cOMIng up? saline wipes, heading to the UK soon!

hOW cAn peOpLe geT In TOuch WITh YOu? Via damien.slade@neilmed. com or 07523 973 849.

News

Q&A

01. InTROduce YOuRSeLF... I’m Damien slade! I’m based in Manchester and have worked in the piercing industry for nearly two years selling piercing aftercare to my wonderful clients.

The (very unscientific) baromeTer of piercing populariTy! What’s hot and what’s not as of the end of the summer? The social media community has spoken...

LObe And cOnch cAMe In jOInT SecOnd pLAce.

nOSTRILS WeRe The cLeAR end-OF-SeASOn WInneR!

n Av e

eYebROW

A bIg FAT nOpe FOR LATeSuMMeR bRIdgeS.

A R d dA IT h RW FO eLI x h uM

FAIR

nOSTRIL

bRIdge

ROO

LO b

STORMY

A big thank you to everyone who took part this time! Keep an eye on our Instagram stories and posts for more polls to get involved with for the next issue of @thesharpend_magazine

EUROPE Enhanced Ordering Experience in the UK

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8/7/23 9:23 AM

News 10

IntroducIng: the Wee ScottISh PIercIng exPo!

In early March 2024 there’s a brand-new industry event coming to Scotland. Organiser Nikki Lloyd-Proctor gives us a sneak preview – including an exclusive line-up announcement...

everything from theory to practice, without overwhelm. As well as hearing from piercing professionals we will have some fun, interactive learning and some of the industry’s most skilled jewellery makers joining us. In addition to our sponsors Buddha Jewelry Organics, we have support from Stiletto Piercing Supplies UK, and vendors including Sacred Symbols, Jodie Metcalf and more. with ‘A bit of banter’ from the Bold and Golden Girls, we’ll have guests including Jess Sellars, Eugenia Delphine and Olly Todd. we are also honoured to have an exclusive live interview with Mac Mccarthy (aka Dr evil)! More guests will be announced soon. There’ll be a generous goodie bag for each attendee and a wellness snack bar on

site both days. Then, on the sunday, we will have an evening buffet, special performances and a lively cèilidh band so everyone can have fun and shake their brains and hips loose after all of that learning. The Expo will take place Sunday 3 March and Monday 4 March 2024 at a venue called The Old Dr Bells Baths in edinburgh. There will also be an exclusive suspension event in collaboration with the expo on Tuesday 5 March. Tickets are £130 for the twoday expo (this does not include the suspension event). email theweescottishpiercingexpo@ gmail.com if you’d like to buy a ticket for the expo – at the time of going to press we had already sold around 30 spaces and are limiting to a maximum capacity of 80 attendees. For more vendor and speaker announcements, along with suspension news, stay tuned to Instagram. @theweescottishpiercingexpo

My heart is bursting. I am excited to introduce The Wee Scottish Piercing Expo – hosted by Bold and Gold Piercing Art, sponsored by Buddha Jewelry Organics, and with support from stiletto Piercing supplies UK. This is a small, intimate industry professional event where as an attendee you can expect to experience

More to coMe Check out the next issue for details on another upcoming event!

Re ding someone else’s copy? get your own FREE subscription at the-sharp-end.co.uk

D tes for your diary

Here are some of the unmissable industry events taking place in the UK and beyond over the coming months...

south seminars 17 february 2024 Novotel, Reading @southseminars the Wee sCottish pierCinG expo (sponsored by Buddha Jewelry Organics with support from Stiletto UK) 3-5 march 2024 The Old Dr Bells Baths, Edinburgh @theweescottishpiercingexpo

fr.a.p.p.e 2024 10-12 May 2024 Bordeaux, France @fr.a.p.p.e_ app annuaL ConferenCe and expo 23-28 June 2024 Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino, Las Vegas, US safepiercing.org

pierCer trade shoW 3.0 17 march 2024 Manchester Central (at the Tattoo Tea Party) @piercertradeshowuk the 12th tattoo tea party 16-17 march 2024 Manchester Central tattooteaparty.com

internationaL inspiration

pierCer trade shoW 3.5 october 2024 (dates announced soon!) Dublin @piercertradeshowuk

Bmxnet 1-4 August 2024 Berlin, Germany bmxnet.org

Gep ConGress 18-22 August 2024 Sao Paulo, Brazil @gepsafepiercing

Let’s fiLL this map up! If you know of a conference, expo or open-door event that should be on this page, or have one of your own to promote, send the details to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk

The mixed-meTal look can be a real head-Turner if you geT ThaT curaTion bang on – especially for a knock-ouT auTumn/ winTer composiTion

IMAGES: BvLa and tisH Lyon

15 JeweLLery sHowcase

Here is some inspiration to get your creative minds wHirring...

Lyo n T i s h Out of this world tishlyon.com

First lobe: Orbit, 14ct yellow gold threadless attachment (TLPIN203) Second lobe: Star, 14ct white gold threadless pin attachment (TLPIN109) Lower helix: Gold Bubble Hinge Ring, 14ct rose gold (TLMR12) Conch: 14ct rose gold threadless jewelled Crescent Moon attachment (TLPIN284) Helix: Cosmonaut, 14ct yellow gold threadless attachment (TLPIN206) Forward helix to flat: Trail Blazer with Star Gem Chain, 14ct yellow gold threadless attachment (TLPIN247) Joining chain: 14ct white gold Hanging Chain Charm with Gems (TLCHAIN15)

Autumnal opulence bvla.com

17 Jewellery showcase

B V L A 1. Two-Tone Captain, yellow gold kite bezel with 1mm white gold cable chain across setting, 7x4mm pyrite kite gem 2. Anaya, yellow gold 3mm round prong with rose, yellow and white gold beads set into graduating round prong accents with 3mm pyrite cabochon 3. Tri-Tone Raine, tri-tone wire wrap surrounding 4mm yellow gold bezel, 4mm pyrite cabochon 4. Tri-Tone Gemma, three graduating chains: yellow gold cable chain, white gold Miranda chain, rose gold box chain 5. Tri-Tone Desiree, tri-tone wire wrap seam ring

SH Jewellery showcase 18

In your Element

“We are very excited about the Element Collection©™! We’ve always been fascinated by the aesthetic of mixed metals and felt this year was the perfect time to present this line of jewellery. These initial designs focus on different colours of gold permanently fused with highly polished titanium. The beaded ‘all metal’ look has a very unique oldeworlde feel to it. “The collection is available in AU 750 and AU 585 rose/ yellow in multiple styles including threaded and threadless ends, navel designs, daith/septum rings and side-set/nipple bars. These particular pieces shown here work wonderfully for so many projects, including ear curations! “Stay tuned for new additions to the line as we expand it to include a variety of precious and semi-precious stones.” www.leroi.com 1. Atria 2. Henna 3. Sünn 4. Valentia 5. Vintage 6. Varia

Le R o i

N E o M E t a l Elegance for every day

“We created a curation that blends both gem and non-gem elements to create a stunning look suitable for everyday wear. The focal point, an 18ct rose gold Maya, is ideal for adorning either a lobe or conch piercing. The fusion of titanium, yellow and rose gold imparts a playful yet elegant appearance.” neometaljewelry.eu 19 JeWellery shoWcase

3. 6. 2.

1. 18cT rose gold Maya WiTh cZs 2. 18cT yelloW gold ForTe WiTh 2MM cZs 3. Ti TriniTy WiTh 2MM cZs 4. Ti Ball, 2.5MM 5. 18cT yelloW gold TriBead clusTer 6. 18cT yelloW gold Four Bead clusTer

Jewellery shOwCase

Making a statement

“These pieces work beautifully together to create an eye-catching curation, perfect for someone who is looking for something bold yet elegant. Our recommended styling of these pieces is for ear curation, with Marquise Beauty on the lobe, Belle on the high lobe, Camellia on the tragus, Path on the helix, Malena on the daith, and Paperclip Chain connecting the lobe to the high lobe.” 3.

norvoch.com

1. Belle, 18CT rOse gOld 2. CaMellia, 14CT rOse gOld 3. Malena, 14CT yellOw gOld 4. Marquise BeauTy, 14CT yellOw gOld 5. PaPer CliP Chain, 18CT whiTe gOld 6. PaTh, 14CT whiTe gOld

N o rvo c h

J e w e l ry B o dy “each of these pieces is designed individually for these parts of the ear. starting from the lobe, they are: raya, charlotte, nyra and mushroom V ring. the tragus piece is called camila and the conch is called Gianna. They are all pictured in 14ct yellow gold, with a tragus piece in rose gold. the stones are a mixture of white and amethyst cZ.” mushroombodyjewelry.com

M u s h r o o M

Placement perfect

Th re e pie rc er s te ll us ab ou t th e ev olu tio n of th eir st ud io ide nt iti es , an d ho w re br an din g ha s he lpe d th em to de liv er th e se rv ice an d bu sin es s et ho s th ey en vis ion ed

25 Studio focus

Bold and Gold Piercing Art, Edinburgh

BeLow: THE BOlD AnD GOlDEn GIrlS Logo toP right: @DESIGnWITHkOOBlE

like the combined studio wasn’t big enough – I had energetically outgrown that corner of the tattoo shop and had a vision for something more intentional; more harmonious. We retired piercings from the first studio and in December 2021 opened our second studio, ‘Bold and Gold Piercing Art’ – Edinburgh’s first luxury piercing-only studio. We have a soft Midnight Teal front with large streetfacing windows and lots of gold leaf! The new studio, where I am currently, is a space I feel truly aligned with – a harmonious place where we, and our clients, can come home to ourselves. I chose relaxing, earthy tones, soft fonts and textures that are still complementary to the first studio (we are a family business after all). Our vibes are quite different, but our ethos is the same, and this is why we chose to keep one website connecting the two very separate businesses. The relocation and studio rebrand have been the success I envisioned. Very recently I also had the opportunity to work with a professional to have the website updated and a logo curated to match up with the energy of the space I have created. I invite you to visit boldandgoldstudios.com to see for

IO F

CUS

Nikki Lloyd-Proctor (she/her) and I’ve been piercing since 2008. In May 2012 I opened what was ‘Twit Twoo Tattoo’ with my husband Alan, which was predominantly a tattoo studio with a wee space for piercing and a small jewellery cabinet. Originally we had a bright yellow shop front with circusstyle font and our logo incorporated a trad owl. It was in May 2018 that we decided to rename the studio to align more with the evolution of the business, with a name that was more balanced for the parts of the industry we both loved. ‘Bold and Gold Art’ was created as a nod to the bold style of tattoos Alan offers, and, in its simplest form, my love of gold. And the art? To our minds, it was just nicer than specifically mentioning either tattoo or piercing in a shared space. The new shop front was black with a beautifully scripted font done by hand in gold leaf – it was the more mature version of what we were becoming. However, after the initial pandemic lockdown I returned to work and felt

STUDIO FOCUS

I’m

yourself. The idea is that without even having visited us yet, you will already feel like you are home. The rebrands leading to this moment have been a great journey, all totally relevant and important to each stage of my own and my vocation’s natural growth and journey. Take up the space you deserve! @boldandgoldpiercingart

cUS

IO F

Hi I’m Marianne, I grew up in the beautiful village of Llanberis in Snowdonia, North Wales. I moved and settled down not too far away, in the small city of Bangor, when I was 17. I currently live with my lovely daughter, Sky. My career as a piercer started back in 2011 and stemmed from the love I’d had for piercings as I grew up. I initially set up Pixies Piercing Studio in August 2012, primarily selling basic titanium jewellery, with the odd bit of gold, but only really when it was requested. Over the years, as I worked on developing my

@goldenerapiercing

STUDIO FOcUS

Golden Era Piercing and Fine Jewellery, Bangor

skills and the progression of the business, I started to fall in love with gold, and it quickly became my dream to be able to stock a full range of high-end options, mainly for my clients, but partly so that I could simply admire the beautiful shiny jewellery! I decided to rebrand the business around two to three years ago, as I wanted to create a brand that I felt projected more of a luxury vibe, and align more with the direction I wanted to take the business in. I also wanted something I could trademark and call my own. So, in April 2023, I took a leap of faith and renamed the studio ‘Golden Era Piercing and Fine Jewellery’. After a couple of years of brainstorming, this was a name that I felt best reflected the current ethos of the business. I now stock reputable jewellery brands such as ISUK, Anatometal, Junipurr and Inari Organics. I also have some stock from Danila Tarcinale and Tish Lyon. Also, I’ve just this year received my very first jewellery order from BVLA, which I’ve been really excited about, as I’ve had an account with them for more than three years! The next step is to finish my website, and in the near future I’d like to be able to offer an apprenticeship to someone who wants to learn how to pierce.

LF Piercings, Salisbury

@lf.piercings

Over tO yOu Have you got a studio rebrand, refit or success story to shout about? Send a photo and short overview to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk

was presenting myself was at the same level. My procedure room, business cards, aftercare information and Instagram posts are all designed with the same style in mind. I’ve tried to go for muted colours in order to enhance the colours of my jewellery, with some botanical features to make everything feel fresh and calming. There is still a very long way to go in terms of building the business, decorating and getting everything where I want it to be, but I encourage everyone: if you haven’t before, take a minute to stop, look back and see where you were six months or a year ago, or even back to when you first started. Growth happens all the time, even if you don’t see it.

IO F

CUS

name is Leah Flack and I have been piercing professionally for three years. When I joined the wonderful team at Old Sarum Tattoo in Salisbury in January 2022, the piercing client base was almost non-existent. The jewellery cabinet had maybe 10 pieces in it – mostly surgical steel ends and some acrylic and silicone plugs – and I was working out of a small cupboard room with just enough space for my bed and tray table. But I always knew the piercer I wanted to be and the standards I want to build and maintain for myself and the studio. The first thing I focused on was providing clean and safe piercings with body-safe jewellery, so I gradually began to switch the studio’s jewellery stock. Starting slowly, I moved from external thread to internal and from mystery metals to verified titanium, and later, with the help and support of my amazing clients, I branched out into selling solid gold and gemstones, as well as only verified implant-grade titanium. I also needed to upgrade my space; after working very long days, sometimes seven days a week, my client base had begun to grow and I needed to accommodate that. I eventually moved into what is now my procedure room with a lot more space, and I am able to provide a more relaxed, comfortable environment for myself and my clients. My branding has come a long way with me on this journey! As my business has grown and the service I provide my clients has changed, I wanted to make sure the way I

STUDIO FOCUS

SCAN QR TO GET YOUR FREE SAMPLE PIERCEMED.CO.UK

tHe

Deb

Debate

old school schoo

31 Debate

new school Talking poinT

RHI: I’ve been piercing for 23 years and I’ve seen massive change in the industry during that time. How long is it you’ve been piercing now, Elin? ELIN: Five years! RHI: Jesus, that’s gone quickly. What kinds of things do you feel are good about coming straight into the game at high end? ELIN: The Statim. The Statim is my favourite. Whenever we have to work without one, and bag everything, part of my soul dies. RHI: That was probably my first 20 years in the game – every single item we had, jewellery-wise, had to be sterilised way beforehand! ELIN: Having a Statim also allows us to stock a lot of high-end jewellery and sell it constantly, rather than having to ask people to come back. RHI: Yeah, because people don’t like to wait anymore. That is one very big plus. I don’t miss bad quality jewellery; I remember back in the day, all the bezel-set gems that you screwed onto everything would go green within two months! <laughs> Obviously it is still out there though, and people do still use

DEB

AT E

THE

ImagEs: Ruby Wolfe

Debate

Welcome back to the ring for another round! This time we visit The Circle London, where one of the UK’s most experienced piercers, Rhianna Jones, and her apprenticeturned-pro Elin Sullivan discuss the old school vs the new school of the industry

it. How do you feel about the change in jewellery? ELIN: There’s a hell of a lot more brands now, and more affordable high-quality jewellery is coming into the market. Lifetime guarantees are also an incredible thing that some brands are now offering, and that really helps high-end studios stand out. RHI: One thing that does kind of irk me nowadays, though, is the tool-free situation. I still use tools. You are more tool-free than me. ELIN: I still use tools though! RHI: But from what I’ve trained you to be, you’ve still gone on to teach yourself more about tool-free, so

that’s great. It’s the elitist side I don’t like – ‘if you’re not tool-free, you’re not a good piercer’ somehow. ELIN: There’s almost a shame that comes with it! There shouldn’t be any shame! RHI: Yeah. I scrub my tools, they are clean. I use them, they are great. Without them I wouldn’t be able to provide as good a service as I do. ELIN: I love some of the disposable tools. I know there are some that you absolutely hate, but I love them. It’s because I can’t be arsed scrubbing tools! <laughs> RHI: I use disposable tools most of the time, but yeah, for some things I just don’t find there’s a good substitute. I’m quite set in my ways but I do try to push myself out of my comfort zone if it’ll help for a better procedure. Either way, the tools I use are always used in the safest way. ELIN: I guess needles have changed – have blades always been available since you started?

LEFT anna mid-session at revenant tattoo, based at the same premises as rogue piercing

built this studio up over seven years from just having plain titanium, starting with brands that aren’t verified now but they got me to where I needed to be. It’s about building your inventory and building trust in your clients. And you guys get to have that straight away and that’s fantastic! ELIN: Even since I started I think we’ve doubled the number of brands we have – maybe even nearly tripled it! RHI: Yeah, that is very true – from the two tiny cabinets I had that were about the size of an A1 piece of paper, now I’ve got two floor-to-ceiling cabinets! Displays have definitely changed a lot too, and that helps to sell the jewellery better. Plus, I think making people aware that they can have good quality, fancy jewellery straight away has made a massive difference to who gets pierced. ELIN: What about your first piercing room? What was it like? I’m imagining a little cupboard... RHI: It was a super tiny room, half the size of what

Debate

piercing, what were you telling people to do? RHI: Oh god. I was working somewhere where we had to tell people to clean with saline and then use tea tree oil! <groans> So obviously I learnt the better way for that! But again it’s all been through trial and error. ELIN: Was downsizing a thing? RHI: No, no! You literally only saw people again if they wanted to change their jewellery! ELIN: How long did you recommend for a ring? RHI: Oh we’d put them in straight away. <laughs> All the things I don’t do now, I’ve done in the past! ELIN: <laughs> Do you look back on it and cringe sometimes? RHI: Oh my god, yeah! All of it! The jewellery I used to use and everything. It may surprise people that I’ve only been using high-end jewellery for seven years. Back in the day I was supplied with externally threaded surgical steel and titanium. Here, I’ve

RHI: I remember when I was back in Exeter I was piercing with cannulas because that was what was provided for me at the studio where I worked. Then one day a colleague said, ‘I’ve done an online training course and there are these blade things, let me show you’, and I thought ok, they seem really brutal, I don’t like those! Then after moving to London later in my career, that’s now the only thing I use – I don’t like cannulas anymore. ELIN: Have you always been a piercer who checks anatomy? Floating navels seem to be more of a thing at the moment, and I’m getting lots of rooks and daiths come in where people have been pierced but didn’t have the anatomy for it. Did you used to see that back in the day? RHI: Thinking about when I started in 2000, people who were already APP members were doing things like that, but as a baby piercer back then, no, you just took the money and stabbed them – they’d come back if they had a problem! But it’s great that customer care has changed massively for clients so they have more faith in the industry, instead of it being more of a backstreet thing that only ‘weird’ people did, not mainstream. I know that’s what we are, but you know, not all of our clients are. <laughs> ELIN: How about aftercare – when you first started

Debate 34

we’ve got now, with a worktop that had – please don’t hate me world – a hand wash sink with the dirty tool ultrasonic next to it... and then the autoclave! Everything was done in the piercing room – there was no dirty room. I look back at that and it makes me want to throw up. At the next place there was a proper dirty room and sterilisation room that were separate, so that’s when it all started to change and I realised that keeping the clean and dirty separate was just good. ELIN: We’re quite lucky here because we’ve got a massive dirty room – it’s bigger than my flat! <laughs> RHI: Is there anything that doesn’t really faze you that you find I don’t like? Things where you’re like ‘yeah that’s fine!’ because you’ve literally had it since day one. ELIN: Well, the thing is, everything you’ve worked really hard for has all just been handed to me. I didn’t have to struggle to learn about hygiene or anatomy – I didn’t have to do all of that experimenting.

You can point at an anatomy now and say ‘don’t do this, do this’ – and you taught me all of that. So I think I’ve had it a lot easier than you had 20-odd years ago. RHI: I guess it’s also helped that we have the internet and social media now – so many more ways to share information. And when I started it was ‘don’t talk to other piercers, they’re competition, they’re the enemy’, but now it’s a massive community and it’s so refreshing. ELIN: Do you think there’s still a lot of experimentation in body piercing? I’ve seen a few things recently like chin piercings and all the rhinos on social media, and the nasallangs... RHI: I think everything gets pushed to its limits, and then we think ‘ah cool, what can we do next?’ I mean, nasallangs have been around ever since I can remember, but things like mantis piercings and high nostrils, they weren’t so popular or known. Septum piercings – when I had my

septum pierced, girls didn’t have septum piercings. That’s why I’ve got it! <laughs> Have you seen any change in the time you’ve been piercing? ELIN: My first piercings, apart from lobes as a kid, were microdermals, and no one else had them (I mean, I do come from the middle of nowhere in Wales!). But now, being in London, I’m seeing them on a weekly basis! They’re very popular at the moment. And bridge piercings – I never saw anyone with those and now we get a good couple of enquiries every week. RHI: I think I had my bridge pierced 22 years ago. It didn’t last! <laughs> One thing I’ve noticed between us is our different clients. Me being older, I generally get older clients who know what they want, aren’t rude, and don’t cancel at the last minute unless something drastic has happened. But you seem to get a lot more people being stroppy with you, and more flaky. ELIN: Yes. We take deposits now because of me. But I’m not going to say much on that! I do have some amazing clients as well though – even ones who come from Brazil regularly! I feel very lucky with our clients. RHI: Yes, I’ve got clients who have followed me for the 20 years I’ve been in London piercing! And now they’re happy to share with you too, which is good!

@rhiannajonespiercing @piercingsbyelin @thecirclelondon

Before we go... Big congrats to Rhi as she celebrates the seventh birthday of her Rhianna Jones Piercing business at the Circle!

at e

tHe

Deb

Debate

RHI: Not always though, eh... <laughs> ELIN: the deposits do help though; we definitely get fewer no-shows. I’m guessing you didn’t do that at your old shops? RHI: No, I’d never taken deposits until the online booking system, but now I wouldn’t not take one, because I’ve noticed since the lockdowns people are way more flaky, which is fine, fair enough, but I still have to earn a living. Social media has helped quite a lot in my career. You’ve had social media from day one, whereas Instagram only started when I was at my last studio. No one knew who you were, unless maybe if you worked in a really reputable studio. How do you find that’s aided you? ELIN: Well, because our shop has about 80k followers, it’s quite easy to piggyback off the shop’s Instagram and posts. but my own personal Instagram hasn’t really taken off as much as you see for other piercers who do the reels

ELIN: I always feel honoured when someone who has booked in with you for years, and who I’ve seen you pierce many times when I was an apprentice, finally lets me pierce them! Speaking of which, we’ve got a booking system now too, so clients can just book themselves in and rearrange their appointments themselves. Have you had that before? RHI: No I haven’t. When you suggested it originally, after lockdown, I was like, ‘I hate it’ – I didn’t even like the bookings being computerised when I first moved into this studio! I was old fashioned – I had paper and pencil and I absolutely loved it, until I came here. the reason I didn’t like the booking system at first was because I wanted to be able to control who could book when – but now I actually really love it because I don’t have to deal with a million emails! <laughs> ELIN: It’s very ‘to the point’ now – they just book in, explain what they want, and it’s done. and then hopefully they show up.

and videos. every now and then I’ll give something a go, but I pump all that time in and reap no real reward for it and I think, what’s the point? RHI: that is something that annoys me about nowadays – having to be seen to be doing something constantly on social media, and it keeps changing and you have to keep chasing it. I don’t have time for that – I’m trying to run a business! ELIN: but some people do incredible social media stuff; some of the videos are so funny – I was watching Jess Sellars’ one the other day and cracking up. RHI: Oh my god, she’s amazing, yep. ELIN: I wish I had the brain that could make stuff like that, but I just don’t. RHI: Me neither, I think we’re quite similar on that front. and I forget to take pictures. I see clients and about five minutes later I’m like, ‘oh, that was really good, why didn’t I take a picture?’ <laughs> ELIN: Yeah, I lie in bed thinking, ‘I wonder how that ear is doing that I never took a photo of’. <laughs>

MME

gents of change

Comment

Becky Crossan, Public Outreach/Vice President for the UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP), has some sage advice for implementing change in your studio post-conference

Whether you’re a first-time conference attendee or a conference veteran, it’s completely normal to feel overwhelmed when you return home from an industry event. You’ve met so many different people and been introduced to so many new ideas, it’s hardly surprising that it all feels like a lot to take in. So don’t take it to heart if you’re struggling a little bit with information overload when you return home. Hopefully these top tips will help you start to implement change in a way that feels a bit less daunting.

Don’t feel you have to try every single new idea that you’ve learned There’s more than one way to peel a banana, and if you’re working safely then you don’t have to change your technique for every piercing if you don’t want to.

About the UKAPP

Take things one step at a time Don’t try to do too much at once! Decide which changes are the most important for you and your studio and then break those down into smaller tasks.

The UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) is a not-for-profit health and safety organisation dedicated to spreading knowledge of safe piercing practices and up-to-date information for industry professionals and the general public.

Try new techniques ethically Don’t experiment on unsuspecting clients. If something is totally new, try it out on inanimate objects first until you’ve built your confidence. Next step is to enlist friends and colleagues, or waive the piercing fee and offer it to regular clients with their fully informed consent.

The organisation has a list of criteria that industry professionals are required to meet in order to become a member of the organisation. This includes environmental criteria, jewellery standards, and health and safety criteria such as being trained in first aid and blood-borne pathogens. The UKAPP also holds an annual educational conference. For more information, visit ukapp.org.uk

Feel free to put some things on the back burner You might like the look of some new techniques that you’ve learned, but feel like you haven’t reached the skill level to try them out. That’s totally ok! Keep your notes safe and try them in future when your confidence and experience grow. Really consider the difference between fact and opinion Some things you’ve learned in classes are scientific facts, but a lot of ideas on piercing techniques etc are the instructor’s opinions. Thinking critically about the information presented is super important in deciding which changes to implement. And finally, if you can’t follow any of the other suggestions, please follow this one: be kind to yourself, because we’re all forever learning!

ElusiVE EphEmEra 01

Body Piercing Archive Founder Paul King continues his search through the archives to celebrate the magazines that have shaped and reflected our piercing communities

_01

ArchivE

Wildcat’s ExPand

organiser of the BMXnet conferences. This was a polished magazine covering not only piercing technique and history but also traditional festivals and ceremonies, heavy body modifications, hook suspensions and piercing performances. You may be able to get your hands _09at a future on back issues BMXnet conference (or have a friend pick some up for you). Finally, whilst not a classic publication with a subscription and regular printing schedule, an honourable mention must go to the sporadically released and limited run Nodal Points, published by Shawn Porter of Sacred Debris. An exceptional source for piercing history, including rare interviews and photographs, you can find available issues here: blurb.com/user/OvBlog Folks ask me all the time: “how do you find this

history?” My answer: “Thirty-plus years of persistent rummaging through stacks of porn in dusty old bookshops.” if you’re up for it, really, any hardcore BDSM publication might have something on piercing. There is a treasure in London called the Bishopsgate institute’s UK Leather and Fetish Archive. They have thousands of adult magazines that are free to browse by appointment as well as without an appointment on special public-viewing days. Find out more at bishopsgate.org.uk For sure i will have missed some titles; this wasn’t meant to be a complete list, but rather a great starting point. You won’t find most of the history contained in these physical magazines online.

This generally mediocre publication only made this list because of the tireless efforts of master piercer Elayne Angel. The first issue came out in June 2002, and Elayne was a contributing author until what is believed to be the last issue (November 2021). While some of her advice columns contain information of historical interest reflecting the knowledge of the time, most of it is still insightful and relevant today. Overall, the majority of the magazine’s space was dedicated to tattooing, but each issue always offered something about piercing and/or heavier body modifications. Some of the last issues, 2017-2021, are available for free viewing online at painmag.com/ magazine

42 Sharp thinking

IT Working

After joining forces to work a piercing booth at the Big North Tattoo Show earlier this year, Sam Holmes, Rhyannon Smith, Megan Marsh and convention pro Nathan Hague tell us why the experience was so important to them and to the wider industry

1. Nathan, tell us how you first got into working piercing booths at tattoo conventions...

SAM: Just after attending the Piercer Trade Show in Manchester, Nathan put a call out on his social media stories asking for piercers to join him. It’s been a career-long bucketlist dream for me to have the experience of working a convention, just for the change of pace and the opportunity to work alongside somebody else, as I’ve been a lone worker for much of my career. I showed my husband and asked if he would IMAGEs: Sam Holmes and Jessica maciel ireland

3. Nathan, do piercing booths tend to attract a lot of interest at these shows? NATHAN: The short answer is ‘yes’! At this particular show we were able to do 45 appointments in our double booth over the two days. These sales were mainly gold, as Newcastle is clearly a city that loves piercings and tattoos. In all honesty, we really only took on less complex appointments and referred a lot

Sharp thinking

2. Sam, Megan and Rhyannon, what led to you guys teaming up with Nathan to run the booth at the Big North Tattoo Show?

mind looking after our toddler while I went to Newcastle, and he was fine with it. Within minutes of seeing the post I had replied, and all of a sudden something on my bucket list was getting ticked off! MEGAN: When Nathan called me at work one day and asked if I’d mind working alongside him, I immediately said ‘yes’ too! And since then we have also done the Big London Tattoo Show together with the rest of the team from his studio, Utopia Body Arts.

NATHAN: The convention scene started for me when I was working at a studio called Sailor Max in Aberdeen. The tattooists there were working events every other week, all over the world, so in 2014 I called the organiser of the Tattoo Tea Party and he said that he was looking for real piercers to work his events going forward. Fast forward to now, and I have worked at 50-plus tattoo events all around the globe.

“At this particular show we were able to do 45 appointments in our double booth over the two days”

to other studios near to where that particular client lived, as there are many challenges to piercing at a convention.

disconnect from your ‘at-home’ business mind and focus on something new. We are still doing our job but it’s a totally different environment, it’s a different way of working and a really good chance to try new things. So, I would say conventions are a good side hustle. I will definitely do more.

RHYANNON: It was amazing! We were all so ready for the day ahead, looking forward to chatting to loads of new people, showing off all of the gorgeous pieces of jewellery Nathan brought with him and hyping each other up once we were finished with a client. It was a really wholesome experience; we are all so different but we were sharing little hints and tips with each other and helping each other out all weekend. MEGAN: The buzz that you get from the community at conventions will always have a very big place in my heart, as I spend a lot of my free time going to as many as I possibly can, talking to other business owners and seeing how they run things, as well as catching up with friends from other parts of the country. In fact, they are my origin story – the way I got into this industry in the first place was through attending my local convention in Oxford at age 18, where I sat down and just started selling jewellery until someone gave me a job! 5. Is it a decent side hustle? NATHAN: I have been very lucky to only work or get invited to really established shows, and those are super busy. But, a side hustle that takes you out of your studio on the busiest days? Probably not too viable to do week-in week-out to be honest. RHYANNON: I do find, though, that it’s a really good way to

6. So, it’s a good boost to your skill-set and experience too? IMAGE: Bart Masiukiewicz aka Pictures in Blood

Sharp thinking

4. And how did the rest of you find the buzz at the booth during the event?

RHYANNON: Working conventions is a really great way to boost your skills, especially if you work by appointment back home. Conventions are fastpaced and a huge change from the ‘norm’, but it’s a really great way to get yourself out there. MEGAN: Yes, I always find it’s worth putting yourself out there at events. They may not be local to your studio, but you can get so much more than just clients from them – they give you the chance to grow your abilities by being out of your comfort zone, learning from each other in a much more physical way, and taking your social media directly to the audience that is interested in what you have to offer. SAM: It was great to watch the others working and the techniques they used in a non-teaching kind of way, as it just flowed – and that is great for my learning. Simple tips and tricks that I had never thought of before, like changing jewellery in high nostrils using a long taper to know exactly where the opening is was a game changer for me. I have spent years faffing with it, and this simple little trick makes so much sense, but I never thought of it before because I had only ever stocked short tapers. It was so much fun to share my skills with

the others too, and to do some piercings that I don’t get the opportunity to do in my studio as there isn’t any call for them.

ShArP ThINKINg

7. Do you find that working these booths is good for outreach? SAM: One of the things I noticed fairly quickly was that a lot of the general public were expecting to get pierced cheaply, whilst simultaneously expecting to pay hundreds for a tattoo! So it was really nice to have all the beautiful APP-approved jewellery to show people exactly why the price is the price. NATHAN: Yes, plus the piercing booth I operate has a Statim and aseptic setup with full disposable tools. SAM: Every person we spoke to came from somewhere different, and we had the resources and knowledge to be able to then direct these clients to reputable studios around the country, meaning that other piercers who are forever-learning will benefit from the publicity too and have new clients that expect to pay for quality service and jewellery. It really is working to boost the industry and teach the public that cheap options shouldn’t be the norm. 8. What was your favourite moment or the best lesson you learned from the experience at the Big North Tattoo Show? NATHAN: My favourite moments are always spent with great piercers in the booth. I got to see how three of the best in the UK pierce and sell jewellery, and how their overall manner is with clients. I then in turn bring these little nuggets back to my studio.

MEGAN: My favourite thing about piercing at conventions with this gorgeous team is that we get to work together. There was a really special moment between me, Sam and Nathan, when we all worked on a curation for a double nostril piercing. Sam chose the jewellery and designed it with the client, Nathan made a custom chain to perfectly fit their anatomy, and I went through with piercing them. SAM: That was my favourite moment too! It really was a cliché of ‘teamwork makes the dream work’. I made new friends who for the weekend were like family and gave me a lot of love and support; people who were total strangers at the beginning of the weekend, but in a matter of a few minutes became ‘my people’. The industry we work in can be cutthroat and full of unhealthy competition and poor business practices, but in moments like these we realise that the industry is evolving and we are all starting to work together to take it from strength to strength. RHYANNON: Agreed. The best lesson I learned was that we are all in this together. It was so refreshing working with Nathan, Megan and Sam. We all do our absolute best yet we do it in a completely different way and that IS ok! We all help each other, we all grow together, we all learn together. I loved it so much, and I can’t thank Nathan enough for the opportunity. @gypsybladespiercing @syhr_piercing @mystic_piercer @nathanhague85

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That’s The Point - UK / Europe

@thatsthepointuk

Ask t he Piercing Piskie Our resident Agony Faery is here to provide some supernatural insight to answer your burning questions...

How do you stay positive when

. business is slow? – Anxious

Piercing Piskie

Ahh this one is close to my heart! A decade into the piercing game and still every year i get the anxious thoughts creeping in when it starts to slow down. First of all i want to acknowledge how truly stressful it can be when things go quiet. if you’re feeling worried about the slow season, that’s totally normal and ok! it may be part of running a business, but it can be a really scary, unsettling and anxietyinducing part. even though i know it’s going to happen every year, i still feel the panic creep in. i think, as self-employed people, our brains go straight to thinking ‘this is my fault, i’m doing something wrong’, but that is simply not true! At this time of year in particular, we are supposed to slow down! This used to be the time we would harvest all the hard work we did in summer, and start to wind down for winter. We don’t do that anymore because we are taught to never stop, and to hustle and grind until we Die. Ya know, fuck capitalism and the patriarchy, but that’s a whole other essay i could write... This shall pass. it really will. That’s something to just keep in the back of your mind – after all,

business is full of ups and downs. i guess the only way to not think about it is to occupy your mind with other tasks. Use it as a time to get stuff done that you usually wouldn’t have time for. Learn a new skill, like anodising or needle bending. You could practise a new technique and offer discounts to clients whilst you’re practising; another way to potentially get more people in! Maybe you could use this time to up your marketing game or get round to redesigning your gift vouchers. Maybe you have a ‘room of doom’ that you’ve been putting off clearing out. Maybe you’ve got a tonne of admin to catch up on! staying busy will help keep those anxious thoughts at bay. The more you think about how little is coming in, the more you’ll stay in that mindset, and the more it will get you down. The universe will never give you more than you can handle. so ask yourself, is this in fact a welldeserved break? is the universe telling you that you neeD to slow down? could you work on yourself in this quiet period? could you establish a new routine in order to look after yourself a bit better? i also just want to make it really clear that we ALL have

quiet times, despite what social media may look like. reach out to your peers! Talk to them. We are all in the same boat, and this year is harder than ever with the cost of living crisis. Don’t be embarrassed, and don’t take it as a sign of failure, because it’s not. You’ll feel so reassured, and maybe you can get some tips on what others do. i think the best advice i can give is to not slip into self blame and feel like you’re failing, because you’re not. challenge those thoughts and look for evidence to back that up. go through all your great reviews and remember you have such a great business! remind yourself that you have lots of great customers who are probably feeling the cost of living pinch too. keep posting; remind your clients why you’re the fuckin’ BesT and they’ll come running back in when they have a few more pennies to spare. And finally, make a note of this quiet time, and when you get your new 2024 diary, write ‘QUIET SEASON, DON’T FUCKING PANIC’ in it to remind yourself for next year!

All my love,and bes, sending positive vi e the Piercing Piski

S iN P

Nd-N

oTE

Go forth nd

I’ve been a piercer since the age of 18, but my career started a lot earlier than that. I was 11 when I got my first piercing and from then on it’s been a constant fixation. My friends and I would gladly guinea-pig for each other so that we could practice piercing among us, which in hindsight probably wasn’t the best idea, but you live and learn. My world was truly flipped on its axis when I discovered BMEzine. I had never seen anything like it! This became my bible – a world of the extraordinary and unique – and to this day I accredit my career to Shannon Larratt. Rest in power! One of the things I’m most proud of is getting the job at Maria Black. It was my ‘I have arrived’ moment! I’ve always suffered from imposter syndrome, feeling like the outsider looking in, but this was the moment when I finally felt ‘seen’ – not only for my passion for the craft but for me as a person. Now here I was, UK Head Piercer for a global luxury brand. It made me feel worthy and blessed. Throughout my whole career and most of my life, people have never thought I would amount to much. I went through a turbulent adolescence – partying, drinking; a full-blown creature of vice – but I always

Because of that I honestly feel like I’m seeing in HD. The way in which I am supported has given me a whole new appreciation for not only piercing but also my clients. I feel confident and empowered to interact with my customers; never in my wildest dreams did I imagine I would be curating the ears of the bougie and fabulous, and yet here I am! I am allowed to be an artist with needles. It also reminded me that I am forever a student; I always want to be at the best of my game and support the community that has given so much to me. It has also opened my eyes to what piercing would evolve into in the future. The main thing I’d like other piercers to take from this is: if you are the smartest person in the room, find another room. The beauty of our industry is that it’s ever evolving and expanding – there are always new and safer ways to do something. Don’t be afraid to admit you don’t know something, and never think that you know everything. There is something beautiful and sacred about our community and I hope that we keep this spirit alive for as long as possible. Peace, love, disposable needles!

END-NoTE INSPo

prosper!

knew I wanted to do piercings. Despite everything, that had always been the constant. For most people, getting a job doesn’t mean that much, but for me this was the culmination of years of work and unrelenting passion. I was ecstatic and terrified at the same time. It was mine to fuck up.

@dobs_piercer

Stepping into the role of UK Head Piercer at Maria Black in London’s internationally renowned Selfridges destination store was the moment that DOBrOmIr GeOrGIev, aka Dobs, became his true self