Andrew Derbidge

Glenfarclas –A family affair

Glenfarclas is a special distillery and holds a special place in many people’s hearts – and particularly the Society’s. So what is it about the distillery that makes Glenfarclas unique? Let’s explore…

First and foremost, Glenfarclas

is a family-owned distillery. That might not seem like much on the surface, but it’s a key feature that drives almost everything about the distillery. By comparison, the vast majority of distilleries are owned by huge multi-nationals or private consortiums. Many distilleries are just one in a portfolio featuring several other whisky distilleries and/or brands, all owned by the controlling company. The two best examples of the current state of play in the Scotch whisky world are Diageo and Pernod Ricard. Diageo owns 28 malt whisky distilleries, a number of grain distilleries, and owns brands like Johnnie Walker, Bells, J&B Rare, etc. Pernod Ricard owns 13 malt distilleries, two grain distilleries, and brands like Chivas Regal and Ballantines. In contrast, Glenfarclas is one of only three distilleries from the 19th century that still remain in family hands.

Glenfarclas was officially founded in 1836 by Robert Hay, being part of Rechlerich Farm. (I say officially, as there is evidence of distilling at the farm from 1791.) The distillery is near Marypark, in the heart of Speyside, with neighbours such as Benrinnes, Cragganmore, Aberlour, and Macallan not too far away. The farm was sold to John Grant in 1865, and both

First and foremost, Glenfarclas is a familyowned distillery. That might not seem like much on the surface, but it’s a key feature that drives almost everything about the distillery.

farm and distillery have subsequently remained with the Grant family ever since. Six generations of Grants (each named either George or John!) have subsequently owned and managed the distillery and today, John’s great great grandson, John L. S. Grant, is the Chairman, and his son, George S. Grant is currently the company’s Sales Director. (As a brief aside, the Grants ran both the farm and the distillery in tandem until as recently as 1987, at which time they decided to cease farming and focus 100% on distilling). One of the key features with being a familyowned distillery is that it brings and affords independence. The Grants can do what they like, when they like, and how they like. It allows them to do things that other distilleries can’t. The Family Casks series, launched back in 2007, is a great example – no other distillery could possibly claim such an inventory of casks in their warehouses, and this has allowed them to bottle single casks from every vintage from 1952 onwards. Furthermore, many aspects of Glenfarclas and its processes/operations remain very traditional. Some of these processes may not be the most efficient methods compared to other options available these days, but the Grants would prefer to spend a few extra pounds and maintain the distillery’s spirit and flavour profile, rather than save money but lose something in their spirit’s flavour and character. A good example of this is the stills, (until recently, the largest on Speyside!) which remain directly fired, these days by gas. This is a rare sight in modern times – most distilleries moved away from direct heating decades ago, in favour of indirect steam coil or steam pan heating. Direct heating – more expensive to run, with naked flame applied to the still – can create a burning or caramelisation of the wash, and is said to impart certain flavour characteristics to the resulting spirit. Of course, the Grants cannot be accused of being old fashioned just for the sake of it. In fact, they’ve been just as innovative and forward thinking as any other distillery, if not more so. Their 105 expression, launched in 1968, was the world’s first commercially available bottling of cask-strength malt whisky. As far back as 1973, they were just the second Scottish distillery to

Of course, the Grants cannot be accused of being old fashioned just for the sake of it... Their 105 expression, launched in 1968, was the world’s first commercially available bottling of caskstrength malt whisky.

create a visitor centre, and they’ve explored and trialled new technology when and where it’s merited. A great example, and a story that always warms my heart, is that they actually trialled steam coil heating back in the 1980’s. One of the stills was converted to be indirectly heated by steam, and its spirit was collected separately from the rest of the “regular” make. Sensory analysis of the resulting spirit from the steam-heated still revealed that the character of the spirit had changed beyond recognition, and it nosed and tasted nothing like regular Glenfarclas. The decision was made then and there to remove the steam coil system and to revert to direct heating. Another hallmark and signature of Glenfarclas is its commitment to sherry cask maturation – again, a decision that doesn’t please the accountants, but is a haven for lovers of sherried whiskies. Sherry casks typically cost ten times as much as bourbon casks, giving you some insight into the expense involved. The large portfolio of expressions in the distillery’s core-range, with age statements at 8, 10, 12, 15, 17, 18, 21, 25, 30, and 40 is arguably the largest and most diverse in the industry, with each expression utilising a different “recipe” of cask-types to create variations in style and intensity. Glenfarclas fills into bourbon casks on order for other companies, but every single drop bottled under their own label comes from a cask that previously held sherry. The different age expressions thus mix and match 1st fill, 2nd fill, 3rd fill, and refill casks; hogsheads and butts; American oak and European oak; and sherry types such as fino, oloroso, and pedro ximenez. It is a long time ago now, but it’s worth recalling that The Scotch Malt Whisky Society and Glenfarclas also share a special relationship. In any article written about the Society, it is almost de rigueur to mention that it had its humble beginnings on the day that Pip Hills made a fateful journey to Glenfarclas, purchased a cask, and brought it home to his flat in Edinburgh where he shared it with his friends.

So when the opportunity to travel opens up again, and should you find yourself in Speyside, a visit to Glenfarclas is well worth an afternoon on your itinerary. Tell them I sent you. Slainte, AD

Andrew Derbidge ~ Director, Cellarmaster & NSW Manager