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What Finespun Threads A N T I Q U E

D O L L

C O S T U M E S , 1 8 4 0 - 1 9 2 5

Florence Theriault


© Copyright 2017 Theriault’s Gold Horse Publishing. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by an information retrieval system, without permission, in writing, from the author or the publisher. To order additional copies contact: Florence & George PO Box 2319, Annapolis, MD 21404 Tel. 800-966-3655 Fax 410-571-9605 www.florenceandgeorge.com

This book is based upon an antique doll collection auctioned by Theriault’s of Annapolis, Maryland. Design: Travis Hammond Photography: Gerald Nelson Senior Conservator: Terry Lanford Conservators: Meredith Dupree, Hana Holbrook $59 ISBN: 1-944881-03-0 Printed in Hong Kong


19th century dollmakers always understood

than 300 beautiful antique doll costumes

the value of costume, realizing that while

are presented at this full color catalogued

the doll was the painting, the costume was

auction, ranging from gowns for elegant

the frame, centering the doll, enhancing its

poupĂŠes and other lady dolls, to child doll

beauty. Serious collectors have cherished

dresses, most in very elegant silks and velvets

finding dolls in original costumes, and, more

and others in charming character-style

and more, simply collecting these precious

cottons. Many of the dresses are offered,

and rare costumes for themselves. More

along with matching bonnets, some with

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milliner’s signatures, and parasols. There are costumes for boys, for miniature dolls, for babies, for characters. Collectors will find dozens of doll shoes including signed shoes by Bru and Jumeau. Accessories include parasols,

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jewelry, bonnets, and even a leather suitcase signed Vuitton and a tiny 14 kt. gold lorgnette. Shown here are only a few examples of the superb antique treasures featured within the following pages. x

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1. Early Cotton Print Lady’s Gown with Self-Piping Of brown/cream/sienna patterned cotton, the lady’s gown features a fitted bodice with stitched-down tucks and patterned cotton lining, V-shaped waist, full skirt with cartridge pleats, modified gigot sleeves with fitted upper sleeves banded by ruching at the elbows and forming into voluminous full lower sleeves with fitted cuffs; the gown is accented with self-piping and has hook and loop closure. To fit 26”-28” lady doll. 5 ½” shoulders. 10” waist. Circa 1840. $300/500

2. Black Silk and Velvet Bonnet with Bead and Bird Decoration, Original Label and Box Having a black silk crown encircled by draped black velvet banding and edged with a double row of black beads, accented by an orange feathered bird with spotted black tail features. With black silk inner lining and having original gilt lettered label of “Magnien 273 Rue St. Honore Paris”. The hat is preserved in its original heavy cardstock hat box with original paper label of Magnien on the lid. 5” length. 2 ½” inside head width. Circa 1860. $300/500

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3. Outstanding ModeEnfantine Dress of Patterned Pique with Scalloped Edging Of thickly corded cream pique with colorful interwoven threads, the dress features a fitted bodice with rounded neckline, pagodashaped sleeves, very full skirt with cartridge pleats at the waist, and wide bretelles which form into long fulllength panels. The dress is trimmed with scallops at the neckline, sleeves and bretelles which are edged by handstitched red embroidery, and with zig-zag braid at the yoke and down the entire front panels. Button and hook closure at the back. To fit 16” mode-enfantine lady doll. 4” shoulders. 8” waist. Circa 1860. $600/800

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4. Three Early Doll Purses Including 3 ½” woven beadwork purse with metallic thread drawstrings; looselywoven miser purse with steel beads and steel beaded trim and tassels and silver rings designed to loop over a waist sash; and a 3” mother-ofpearl purse with soft kidskin accordion sides, silk cord handle and silver applique trim. Mid-1800s. $300/500

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5. Early Fashionable Linen Three-Piece Suit for Young Man with Hidden Pockets Of very fine homespun linen, the ensemble includes a long slim jacket with elaborate cut featuring angled darts at the front and set-in narrow pleats at the high-waisted back; hidden inside those back pleats are deep pockets (designed for the casual hands-behind-his-back fashionable pose of the young dandy). The jacket features a brown velvet collar and unusual button placement. Also included are the matching trousers with hidden pockets and stylish very full derriere; and patterned vest with homemade button holes, and attaching buttons for the trousers. To fit 40”-42” slender bodied doll. 9” shoulder width. 24” jacket length. 18” waist. Circa 1820. $800/1200

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6. Lady’s Scottish Plaid Twill Ensemble The two-piece ensemble of tightlywoven twill in a blue/green/brown Scottish plaid features a basque jacket with fitted bodice and extended length hip panels with gore-shaped wide flares at the sides and pagoda sleeves; and a box-pleated skirt. The jacket is edged with narrow black velvet ribbons, and features hook-and-eye closure down the entire back. To fit 18”-19” lady doll, 5” shoulder width, 10” waist. 15” overall length. Circa 1850. $400/600

7. Accessories for Gentleman Doll

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Including an 11” wooden handled umbrella with black fabric cover, onyx grip and silver-plate trim; along with a 2 ½”h. top hat (brushed finish is worn) with base of its original leather-banded hat box. Circa 1875. $300/500

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8. Bronze Silk Lady’s Gown with Embroidered Tablier Of bronze green silk, the gown features a 8 detail rounded collar with lace edging that matches the lace on the long sleeve cuffs, and having skirt with gathered sides and wide inverted pleat at the front. Along with a white tablier with narrow tucks on the yoke that match the deep rounded pockets, and having a border of exquisite embroidery. To fit 19”-21” lady doll. 5” shoulder width. 9” waist. 16” overall length. Circa 1865. $300/500

9. Tiny Leather Sac Du Voyage as Sewing Necessaire The firmsided brown leather sac du voyage has two compartments, the upper compartment with folded sides and 9 open detail hinged top with metal clasp; and the lower boxshaped unit with silver metal clasp and blue paper lining, containing original tiny bone sewing utensils including thimble, needle holder, and awl, and with tiny scissors. Along with a tiny leather bound book gilt lettered “Witty Humorous and Merry Thoughts” published by Frederick Stoves. 1 ¾”l. Circa 1870. $600/800

10. Lady’s Silk Gown with Elaborate Ribbon-Candy Ruching

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Of delicate pale green silk with vertical ribbon bands and interwoven floral designs, the gown features a fitted bodice with intricately constructed design, hook-and-eye closure, fitted sleeves, and full skirt with knife pleats at front and cartridge pleating at the back.


The gown is decorated with a doubletiered lace collar, and bands of ruching resembling ribbon candy which frame the bodice and trim the upper sleeves, cuffs and skirt front. There are a few light spots on the gown. To fit 19”21” lady doll. 5” shoulder width. 8” waist. 16” overall length. Circa 1859. $300/500

11. Bone-Handled Parasol with Bronze Green Silk Cover Having a fancily-carved bone handle and tip, the parasol has original bronze green silk cover and ivory silk fringe trim, with belt loop. 8”l. Circa 1865. $400/600

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12. Lady’s Muslin Gown with Delicate Transfer Print Pattern, with Early Embroidery Sac Of delicately woven muslin having transfer pattern of lavender flowers and vines, the dainty day dress features a shapely cartridgepleated bodice above a set-in waist band, pagoda sleeves with ruffled selfedging, and cartridge pleated skirt. The dress is trimmed with lace along the edge of the daintily-rolled collar and extending down the length of the skirt, and at the edges of sleeves. Included is a plum silk sewing or embroidery sac with braided handles and having floral embroidered side panels. To fit 22”-23” lady doll. 5” shoulder width, 8” waist, 19” overall length. Circa 1840. $500/700

13. Muslin Lady’s Gown with Blue Woven Ribbons and Parisian Boutique Label

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Of very loosely woven homespun muslin and with blue woven silk ribbon trim, the gown features a dart-shaped fitted bodice with overlaid wide collar, pagoda sleeves, and full gathered skirt with three ruffled tiers. Hook and loop closures are at the back, and the entire dress is lined with delicate white cotton. The dress has original stamp from the Paris boutique of Au Calife de


13. Bagdad owned by Herbillon. To fit 11”-12” lady doll. 3” shoulder width. 5” waist. 8” overall length. Circa 1855. $300/500

14. Lady’s White Pique and Broderie Anglaise Dress and Elegant Bonnet The onepiece gown of horizontally-ribbed white pique has 14 bonnet dart-shaped fitted bodice extending into flared sides, and with slight bustle back and demi-train. There is a rounded collar with scalloped cutwork edging, and wide bands of broderie anglaise at the sleeve edges and hem; handmade button holes and pearl buttons form the closure. Included is a white woven bonnet trimmed with blue silk and velvet ribbons and streamers, and a border of berries and leaves, with original muslin lining. To fit 13” lady doll. 3 ½” shoulder width, 8” waist. 10” overall length. Circa 1865. $800/1000

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15. Early Woven Bonnet and Sac A tightly-woven oval bonnet with a wide brim having upturned sides, the brim lavishly decorated with a bounty of silk and velvet flowers, pansies, leaves, and berries. Along with a 4” x 5” woven flat-sided sac with purple velvet trim, leatherette bands, cord handles and decoupage. The hat is 10” x 7” with a 3” head opening. Mid/Late 1800s. $300/500

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16. Lady’s Woven Wool Plaid Ensemble with Elaborate Jacket Of light flannel wool in red/green and cream plaid design, the ensemble features a basque jacket with fitted bodice, 8” hiplength at the front and 12” elongated at the back with elaborately constructed draping. The peplum jacket has coat sleeves and is trimmed with black velvet silk-covered buttons and double bands of black silk ribbon. With a matching skirt having flat front panel, gathered back with extended train, and an all-around matching dust ruffle trimmed with black velvet ribbons. To fit 18” lady doll. 4 ½” shoulder width, 8” waist. 14” front overall length. Circa 1865. $300/500

17. Lady’s Plaid Woolen High-Waist Dress Of a tightly-woven fine wool in an intricate plaid pattern, the dress features a slightly-high waist and fitted bodice which gains some fullness from the gathers at the center waist

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and knife pleats at the back bodice, coat sleeves with very wide upturned cuffs, set-in waist band which forms into long streamers at the back which are trimmed with very narrow silk covered ribbons, and all-around box pleats, The dress is trimmed with self-piping at the neckline and shoulders, and black velvet at the cuffs and streamers, and has black velvet covered buttons and loops. To fit 18”-19” lady doll. 4” shoulder width, 10” waist, 15” overall length. Circa 1860. $300/500

18. Emerald Green Pique Lady’s Gown with Black Soutache Embroidery Of horizontally-ribbed emerald green pique, the gown features a fitted bodice overlaid with wide V-shaped collar,


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pagoda sleeves, and a very full skirt formed of double box pleats. With hook-and-eye closure and trimmed with black soutache embroidery and black velvet ribbon bow. To fit 11”-12” lady doll, 3” shoulders. 5” waist. 9” overall length. Circa 1858. $300/500

19. Lady’s Brown Twill Gown with Demi-Train and Plaid Trim The semi-fitted gown of brown twill has flat front with flared sides,

coat sleeves, and shaped princess style back with one wide inverted box pleat which extends into a demi-train. The dress is trimmed with colorful plaid which forms two vertical bands at the front, wide cuffs and pockets, and edges the hem. There is white cotton knife pleated trim at the sleeve edges and neckline, and the gown is fastened with hidden hooks and loops under the decorative white buttons, For 17”-18” lady doll. 4” shoulder width. 14” overall length. Circa 1865. $300/500

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20. Black Woolen Boy’s Traditional Brittany Vest and Jacket Of fine cashmere black wool, the two-piece ensemble includes a fully-lined boxshaped jacket with elaborately detailed colorful embroidery 20 detail which extends down the front, around the back hem, and at the sleeve edges. Along with a matching vest with silk backing, double breasted brass buttons, three pockets and matching embroidery. 8” shoulder width. 14” overall length. Circa 1880. $300/500

21. Lady’s Gown of White Waffle-Weave Pique with Soutache Trim Of intricately-woven white pique in waffle-weave design, the gown features a dart-shaped fitted bodice with low rounded collar with cutwork edging, fitted waist, and hook and loop closures at the back; with box pleated full skirt, elbow-length sleeves, and decorated with narrow black ribbon stripes and soutache loops. To fit 20”-22” lady doll. 6” shoulder width. 10” waist. 17” overall length. Circa 1850. $200/400 21.

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22. White Pique Gown with Ecru Soutache

23. White Pique Gown with Lantern Sleeves

Of which horizontally-ribbed pique, the gown features a fitted bodice with wide bretelles that extend over the lantern sleeves, wide skirt with inverted box pleats, and having elaborate soutache embroidery in ecru mohair, 22 detail with matching ecru braided trim at the neckline and bretelles. To fit 20” doll. 5” shoulder width. 10” waist. 14” overall length. Circa 1860. $400/600

Of narrowly-ribbed white pique, the gown features a dart-shaped fitted bodice with hook and loop closures at the back, box-pleated full skirt with double box pleats at the sides, lantern-shaped boxpleated pouf sleeves with lining to enhance the shape, 23 detail two part collar and detachable sash with extended lappets at the back. The collar, sash and skirt are lavishly ornaments with embroidery of an unusual mohair thread (some wear to threads). To fit 18”-20” lady doll. 5” shoulder width, 10” waist, 15” overall length. Circa 1859. $300/500

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24. Brown Silk Gown in Mode Enfantine with Extended Attached Fischu Of fine pin-striped brown silk, the intricately-constructed gown has a rounded neckline, fitted bodice with V-shaped center ruched panel, pagoda sleeves with fringed ruffle edging, set-in waist band and very full skirts. A graduated width shawl with ruffled fringe edging (to match the sleeves) is attached to each side shoulder, criss-crosses over the bodice and extends to the back of the gown to form long streamers. There are tiny loops and little buttons at the back. To fit 15” doll. 3” shoulder width. 7” waist. 11” overall. Circa 1860. $800/1100

25. Early Woven Bonnet, Leather Shoes, Purse and White Kid Gloves Of woven straw with flat crown and rolled edges of the wide brims, with black hand-stitched edging and band, and a lavish feather. Along with hand-stitched black leather slippers (one rosette missing), and brown leather purse with gold accents and soft kid-skinned gloves with wrist buttons. 2”l. shoes. 4”h. hat. 1 ½”w. inside head dimension. Circa 1860. $400/600

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26. Brown Silk Dress with Lattice Trim and White Cotton Blouse Of light brown silk with black pencil-stripe design, having unusual trim of black silk ribbons arranged with latticelike design and accented with silver bead buttons, having hook and loop closures at back bodice. Along with a white cotton blouse with two bands of pin tucks and two bands of larger tucks and centered pleates, and twobutton cuffs. For 16” doll. 4” shoulder width. 8” waist. 12” overall length. Circa 1860. $600/800

27. Brown Velvet Jacket with Silk Fringe, and Brown Velvet Bonnet Of soft rich brown silk velvet jacket with fitted back, wide lapels, flared sleeves, edged with black braided trim, and trimmed at jacket hem and sleeve edges with black and ivory silk fringe and gilt metallic thread. Along with padded brown velvet bonnet with black beaded panel at the back, and rolled midnight blue velvet edging around the face. 4 ½” shoulder width. 5”l. Circa 1860. $500/700

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28. Brown Silk Taffeta Gown with Black Alencon Lace in Mode Enfantine Of crisp chocolate-brown silk, the gown features a fitted bodice with hook and loop closures at the back, unusual shaping of neckline, V-shaped front bodice panel with vertical bands of black velvet that are edged by a border of delicate Alencon lace that extends over the shoulders to form streamers at the back, with pagoda-shaped sleeves with black velvet ribbon edging, and box pleated skirt with double boxed pleats at the rear that are trimmed at the hem with further black velvet ribbon and black Alencon lace. To fit 15” doll. 4” shoulder width. 7 ½” waist. 11” overall length. Circa 1860. $600/800

29. Brown Silk Faille Jacket and Brown Velvet Bonnet Of vertically-ribbed brown silk faille jacket with flared sides, the jacket is fitted with coat sleeves, extended collar and two pockets, and edged with brown silk ribbon and silk-covered buttons. Along with brown velvet bonnet with brown silk banding and bows, black muslin lining, and brown gathered inner lining. For 16” doll. 4” shoulders. 7” overall length. Circa 1860. $300/500

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30. Bengaline Silk Gown with Black Velvet Trim Of natural bengaline silk, the square-shaped low-neckline gown has a fitted bodice, unusual pagoda-shaped sleeves with wide slits, hook and loop closures at the back, full skirt with variant width of the box pleats that gives a strong shape to the gown, three tiers of ruffles at the lower half of the skirt. The gown is trimmed with black velvet ribbons that edge the neckline, sleeves, waist, and skirt ruffles, and with black velvet bows at the shoulders and waist. Along with white cotton chemisette with attached sleeves with embroidered cuffs. For 17” lady doll. 5” shoulders. 8” waist. 13” overall length. Circa 1865. $600/800

31. Black Velvet Bonnet and Bone-Handled Silk Parasol Including bone-handled parasol with black silk cover, original matching cover, and pom-pom trim. Along with a black silk velvet bonnet with upturned sides, decorative flowers, berries, silk ribbons, and lined interior. 13”l. parasol. 3” hat width. 6” hat length. 2” inner head width. Circa 1865. $400/600

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32. Blue Silk Plaid Gown with Sous-Sleeves Of crisp blue silk plaid, the gown has rounded neckline, dart-shaped bodice, unusual sleeves with fitted upper arms and full box-pleated lower sleeves, boxpleated lower skirt. The dress is trimmed with self-piping at the neckline, waist and shoulders, and with blue velvet ribbon at the sleeve edges and hem. Along with detachable fine muslin sous-sleeves with lace cuffs. For 15”-16” doll. 4” shoulder width. 8” waist. 11” overall length. Circa 1860. $600/900

33. Three White Cotton Blouses Including muslin blouse with tucks, pouf sleeves, with blue silk ribbon trim; white dotted Swiss blouse with lace trim on neckline and cuffs; and white cotton smock blouse with tucks and embroidered panel on bodice, pagoda sleeves, rounded collar with lace edging. 4” shoulders. Circa 1865. $200/400

34. Blue Silk Gown with Five-Tier Ruffled Skirt Of a dainty blue silk plaid, the gown features a dart-fitted bodice with rounded neckline, pouf sleeves, and having a ruffled fichu which criss-crosses the front bodice and form at the back. With a full skirt decorated with five tiers of 32.

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ruffles. The gown is decorated with bands of blue silk ribbons, and with fischu which attaches at the back waist. For 17” lady doll. 5” shoulders. 8” waist, Circa 1865. $700/900

35. Woven Bonnet with Blue Silk Ribbons Brown woven bonnet with flat crown and graduated width brim, trimmed with blue silk ribbons and bows, and with muslin lining. 5 ½” outside width. 2 ½” inside head diameter. Circa 1870. $200/300

36. Blue Velvet Toque with Lace Streamers, and Blue Kidskin Shoes The firm-sided blue velvet toque with draped sides is decorated with blue silk bows and streamers, has original silk lining, and long black streamers of tulle and Alencon lace. Along with blue kidskin shoes with scalloped edging, bows, and black heels. 2 ½” width. 3”l. shoes. Circa 1865. $400/600 34.

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37. Peach Silk Gown with White Blouse in Mode Enfantine Of delicate peach silk with coral shadowstripe, the gown features a fitted bodice with ruffled straps which continue to edge the bodice top, with set-in waist, flat-front skirt with side and back pleats and with overlay skirt, each having pleated ruffles with scalloped edging. With white cotton blouse having narrow pinstripe bodice detail, rounded dotted Swiss cuffs and collar with lace edging. To fit 15” doll. 4” shoulder width. 9” waist. 12” overall length. Circa 1860. $600/900

38. White Muslin Blouse with Lavender Silk Bows The sheer muslin blouse has vertical tucks and rows of lace which are interwoven with silk lavender ribbons. Along with three detachable lavender silk bows and a matching silk sash with wide bow and streamers, button and loop closure. 4” shoulder width. Circa 1860. $300/500

39. Fancily Woven Bonnet and Pair of Leather Boots Woven straw bonnet with flat rounded crown and wide upturned brim is trimmed with black velvet edging, a wide rose and black silk twill band and bow, and a cluster of dainty rose and cream flowers and leaves; with rose silk lining. And black leather heeled boots with five gold buttons. 5”l. bonnet. 2 ½” inside head diameter of bonnet. 2 ½” boot length. Circa 1870. $500/800

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40. Mauve Taffeta Ensemble with Exceptional Lace and Garland Appliques Of crisp mauve taffeta silk, the two-piece ensemble includes a fitted jacket with rounded collar, peplum, and elbow-length fitted sleeves above lacelined ruffled lower sleeves. Along with a very full skirt with flat front and cartridge pleats at the back waist, with extended train. The costume is decorated with lavish bands of pleated lace-edged muslin with ivory bias trim, and dainty garlands of green silk leaves draped across the front and train of the gown. There are decorative silk bows at the elbows and back. To fit 13” lady. 3 ½” shoulder width. 6” waist. 10” overall length. $900/1200

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41. Lady’s Ivory Silk Gown with Double Capped Sleeves

42. Brown Striped Silk Lady’s Gown

Of ivory silk with interwoven beaded and feather pattern, the slenderbodied gown features an elongated fitted bodice with V-shaped neckline, long narrow sleeves with button cuffs and two layered caps at the shoulders, full gathered skirt with double tiers of gathered ruffles. Self-piping trims the neckline, center bodice, waist and ruffles. To fit 18” doll. 4 ½” shoulder width. 8” waist. 15” overall length. Circa 1850. $300/500

Of fine silk in a very narrow striped pattern of brown and sienna, the two-piece ensemble features a fitted jacket whose constructed back waist band is designed to appear as though the ensemble is one piece. The long-sleeved jacket has turn-up cuffs and is trimmed with brown silk banding at the neckline, jacket front and bottom edge. The skirt is knife pleated. To fit 18” doll. 4” shoulder width. 8” waist. 14” overall length. Circa 1850. $300/500

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43. Brown Velvet Jacket and Velvet Bonnet

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Of very lush brown silk velvet with interwoven threads, the jacket features box-shaped front, dart-shaped back, wide pagoda sleeves, and with cream silk plush edging with soutache trim. Along with brown velvet bonnet with wire-framed brim, silk lining, and brown silk faille bow. 4” shoulder width. 2” inside head width of bonnet. Circa 1865. $400/600

44. Brown Striped Bolero Jacket and Brown Velvet Bonnet Of narrow brown and black horizontal stripes, the bolero-style jacket has wide pagoda sleeves, is fully lined and has black velvet edging and bands and self piping at the neck. Along with a brown velvet wire-framed bonnet with brown silk bow and streamers, black Alencon lace, and floral accent. 4 ½” shoulder width. 2” inside head width. Circa 1865. $500/800 45.

45. Linsey-Woolsey Lady’s Day Dress Of light brown linsey-woolsey with interwoven striped designs, the openfront coat-dress features box-pleats that extend from the bodice to form a graceful and easy flowing gown, with coat sleeves, two side pockets, lace edging at the throat and cuffs, and brown silk ribbon trim and sash. To fit 19”-20” doll. 5” shoulder width. 16” overall. Circa 1865. $300/500

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46. Striped Taffeta Gown with Lantern Sleeves Of crisp taffeta with very narrow cream and green pin stripe fabric having interwoven floral designs, with fitted bodice, square-shaped neckline, very full lantern sleeves with knife pleats at the shoulders and knife-pleated ruffle. Very full skirt with double box pleats, trimmed with emerald green ribbon edging and green silk covered buttons. To fit 13” doll. 3 ½” shoulder width. 7” waist. 9 ½” overall length. Circa 1855. $300/500

47. Tiny 14 Kt. Gold Lorgnette with Enamel Inlays The 14 kt gold lorgnette has enamel floral inlay on both sides of the frame, and black outline, belt loop, and square-shaped glasses which fold at the center for tucking inside the lorgnette when not in use. 1” (shown twice the actual size). Circa 1870. $600/800

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48. Two Lady’s Bonnets with Fancy Decorations Including one of green silk faille with draped fabric and rose silk flowers; the other of woven straw form overlaid with draped crepe fabric and decorated with green lace edging and rose silk flounces. Each 2” inside head diameter. Circa 1865. $300/400

49. Bengaline Mode Enfantaine Gown with Chemisette and Exceptional Sous-Sleeves Of delicately patterned bengaline the gown features a fitted bodice with suspender straps, set-in waist, skirt with wide set-in pleats, trimmed with applique green silk ribbons. Along with a white cotton chemisette with tucks and rounded lace-edged collar, and separate very full sous-sleeves with double-lace edged cuffs and borders of lace on the inside seam. To fit 17” lady doll. 4 1.2” shoulder width. 8” waist. 13” overall length. Circa 1860. $500/800

50. Brown Fur Cap and Muff, with Leather Slippers The brown fur toque cap has silk lining; along with a matching muff with padded silk interior, silk ribbons and brown neck cord. And with a pair of brown kidskin slippers with brown silk edging and bows. 1 ½” slippers. 2 ½” muff. 2” inside head dimension. Circa 1865. $200/300

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51. Muslin Gauze Gown on Aqua Undergown with Extended Train Of very loosely-woven muslin gauze over aqua sateen, the gown features a very full gathered bodice with elbowlength sleeves, flat-front skirt with gathered back that extends into a very long train. The gown is trimmed with aqua silk ribbons and bows over box-pleated muslin ruffles, and applique gilt metal sequins. To fit 15” doll. 3” shoulder width. 8 ½” waist. 12” overall length. Circa 1870. $400/600

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52. Bengaline Silk Gown with Unusual Pagoda Sleeves and Aqua Silk Trim Of textured bengaline in shaded brown, the gown features a full bodice with inverted box pleat, set-in waist above box-pleated skirt, pagoda sleeves. The sleeves and hem are trimmed with wide borders of sewn-down box pleats with aqua silk edging, and there is a detachable sash with silk ribbon-edged streamers. To fit 16”-17” doll. 4 ½” shoulder width. 8” waist. 13” overall length. Circa 1860. $800/1100

53. Bone-Handled Parasol with Rare Lace Overlay Silk Cover 8” (20 cm.) Having carved bone handle with turquoise bead grip, bone tip and belt loop, with original turquoise silk cover (some light spotting) with an overlay of petal-edged magenta embroidered tulle, and with ivory silk fringe. 8”l. Circa 1870. $500/800

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54. Lady’s Green Transfer Pattern Cotton Ensemble Of tiny checkered pattern cotton in green and cream with transfer design of darker green and brown branches, the ensemble includes a fitted basque peplum jacket, pagoda sleeves, hook and loop and hook and button closure at the front, self-piping at neck and shoulders, along with a full gathered skirt, and with a matching cape (not shown). The ensemble is trimmed with narrow black velvet ribbons. To fit 18” lady doll. 4” shoulder width. 8” waist. 14” overall. Circa 1860. $200/400

55. Petite Linsey-Woolsey Gown with Pagoda Sleeves with Couturier Label Of light-brown linsey-woolsey with interwoven brown striping, the gown features dropped shoulders above box-pleated pagoda sleeves, tiny set-in waist, very full skirt, with dark brown silk trim including cording at the neckline and wide bands at the sleeve edges and hem. The gown is labeled Au Calife de Bagdad. To fit 12” doll. 3” shoulder width. 5” waist. 9” overall length. Circa 1850. $300/500

56. Brown Cotton Print Dress Of patterned cotton in tan and brown stripes, the dress features a bodice with pleated waist, dropped shoulders with very full cuffed sleeves, set-in 1” waist band of self-material, and very full cartridgepleated skirt. The neckline, shoulder and bodice seams are enhanced 55.

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with self-piping. There are white buttons and handmade button holes at the back, and the throat has lace edging. To fit 22” doll. 7” shoulder width. 12” waist. Circa 1865. $200/300

57. Brown Linen Dress with Fringe and SousSleeves Of chocolate brown linen patterned with oval cream dots, the dress has a fitted bodice with low square-cut neckline and silk fringe, set-in waist band, very full partridge-pleated skirt, hook-and-eye closure. Along with very full white cotton sous-sleeves with turn-up cuffs. To fit 17” doll. 4 ½” shoulder width. 9” waist. 13” overall length. Circa 1860. $400/600

58. Four Tiny Bonnets in Hat Box with Provenance Including rose silk hat with ruched sides, Alencon lace coiffe with aqua silk ribbons, woven straw bonnet with silk lining and feather, and magenta silk hat with elaborately draped fabrics and long streamers edged with Alencon lace. The four bonnets are preserved in an early card stock hat box with marbled paper lid, and along with an ink script note dated Feb., 24, 1870, from Brighton, England, listing the hats, noting “with respectful thanks” and “most heartily wish you health to wear them out”. 3”l. hat box. 1 ¼” width hats. Circa 1870. $500/800

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59. Ensemble with Black Velvet Jacket, Skirt and Underskirt Comprising a black velvet flared jacket with coat sleeves, black soutache trim and silk lining, along with a silk/linen cream skirt with black narrow stripes and black lace border. Along with a padded black silk under skirt with stitching design and silk lining, and with a white chemisette with broderie Anglaise collar. To fit 16” doll. 4” shoulder width. 12” overall. Circa 1860. $300/500

60. Ensemble with Bengaline Skirt, Blouse and Velvet Cape Comprising a finely-woven bengaline skirt with high waist, trimmed with maroon silk ribbons; white blouse with very narrow tucks on the bodice and the sleeves, lace collar and cuffs. And with a deeply-collared cape of a fine fabric having alternate burgundy velvet and grey silk faille bands, and with silk lining. To fit 16” doll. 4” shoulder width. 12” overall length. Circa 1860. $300/500

59.

61. Woven Bonnet with Velvet Border and Black Kidskin Shoes The wire-framed bonnet with black gauze crown has velvet border and silk band and streamers, decorated with rose silk ribbons and black feathers. And black kidskin slippers with black heels, and burgundy silk edging with rosettes. 3”w. bonnet. 2”l. shoes. Circa 1865. $400/600

60.

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61.


62. Boy’s Velvet Ensemble with Umbrella and Cap

63. Traditional Woolen Costume with Fichu and Apron

Comprising a brown velvet jacket with plaid silk center panels, matching flap-front trousers, white cotton shirt with wide tucks, collar and button cuffs. Along with wooden handled umbrella with carved bone hand grip and black silk cover; and with firm-sided black cap with flat crown and red silk band and streamers. For 13”-14”doll. 3” shoulder width. 7” waist. 10” overall. 9”l. umbrella. Circa 1865. $400/600

Comprising fitted jacket of black wool with plaid center panel outlined with green silk, above a red wool flannel skirt, and with triple-tiered lace-edged ruffled fichu which drapes low over the sleeves, and a matching apron with lace trim. Along with fitted white cap and red woolen hooded cape (not shown). To fit 17” lady doll. 4” shoulder width. 8” waist. 14” overall length. Circa 1875. $400/600

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accented with a brass bumblebee. To fit 16” doll. 5” shoulder width. Circa 1860. $300/500

65. Collection of Accessories for Lady Doll Including black silk fichu with fringed outline, black velvet toque with white berry accents, wireframed coiffe with lace edging and burgundy trim with four steel-cut buttons and soutache trim, black velvet belt and black velvet purse. For 15”-17” lady doll. Circa 1875. $500/700

66. Petite Burgundy Wool Lady’s Ensemble Of rich burgundy wool, the ensemble features a long fitted jacket with shapely torso which is trimmed with burgundy velvet ribbons and lace, pearl buttons over hook-and-eye closure, and a pleated skirt with velvet and lace trim. The jacket and skirt is

64. Red Wool Twill Jacket with Faux Lambswool Trim and Matching Cap Of brilliant red wool twill, the flared jacket with coat sleeves has striped sateen lining and is edged with lush black faux lambswool including cuffs, pockets, and epaulets. Along with matching toque lambswool cap with silk lining,

65.

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66.


67. united by a wide burgundy silk sash which forms into a large bow at the back. To fit 11” lady doll. 2 ½” shoulder width. 5 ½” waist. 9” overall length. Circa 1875. $400/600

67. Blue Wool Hooded Cape and Bone-Handled Parasol Of blue wool, the cape is trimmed with stitched-down pleats accented by black ribbon, and has attached hood with a flounce of double-boxed pleats at the crown and blue silk streamers; the cape has quilted ivory-silk lining. Along with a bone-handled parasol with very fine carving of details and tips, and with blue silk cover. 8”l. parasol. Circa 1875. $400/500

68. Petite Purple Wool Lady’s Ensemble Of royal purple wool, the ensemble features a fitted hip-length jacket with hook and loop closures at the front, coat sleeves with black silk cuffs, lace trim at the cuffs and neckline, black grosgrain banding, purple wool skirt with flat front and full gathered back. For 10” doll. 2 ½” shoulder width. 5 ½” waist. 8” overall length. Circa 1875. $300/500

69. Blue Silk Faille Ensemble with Black Velvet Trim Of royal blue silk faille, the costume features a fitted jacket with black velvet center panel and cuffs, and black velvet ribbon banding down the front and edging the hip lappets at the back. Along with a skirt with flat front, and very full cartridge-pleated back skirt with extended length, trimmed with two bands of black velvet ribbon, and sewn-down box-pleated ruffles edged with black velvet ribbons. To fit 17” doll. 4” shoulder width. 8” waist. 14” overall length. Circa 1875. $800/1100

68.

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71. Intricate Beaded Coronet with Blue Silk Streamers

71.

The wire-framed coronet has a bounteous arrangement of flowers, beads, and tiny berries formed from tiny glass beads. Blue silk streamers cascade from the coronet. 2 ½” diam. Circa 1870. $200/300

70. Apple Green Textured Silk Lady’s Ensemble Of pale apple green textured silk, the ensemble comprises a fitted jacket with green prismatic-glass buttons on the vest-like center panel, two vertical rows of ruffles, coat sleeves, and a trilogy of curved lappets at the back waist with ruffled detail, with narrow green cording at the cuffs. Along with a flat-front flared skirt with ruffled border, and having wide box pleats at the back with a demi-train, three silk bows, and three rows of cording edging the back hem. To fit 17”-18” doll. 4” shoulder width, 8” waist. 15” overall. Circa 1875. $600/900

70 back

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72. Collection of Accessories for Lady Doll Including 9” bone-handled parasol with blue silk cover; straw woven toque trimmed with black velvet, blue silk and tiny berries, with silk lining; and a ten-blade carved bone folding fan with gilt and silver painted accents, cord and pom-pom trim, and with original lithographed box. For 17”-20” lady doll. Circa 1875. $500/800

73. Lady’s Cotton Pinstripe Cotton Gown with Demi-Train and Bustle The slightly high-waisted gown has fitted bodice with self-piping at the neck edge, five pearl button closure with handmade button holes, coat sleeves, and flared flat-front skirt with very full bustle back and train. For 18” doll. 3 ½” shoulder width. 8” waist. 15” overall length. Circa 1870. $300/500

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74.

74. Teal Blue Silk Lady’s Gown Of crisp teal blue silk, the ensemble features a fitted hip-length jacket with square-cut collar, coat sleeves, hook and loop closure, draped lace ruffles extend down the jacket front, and with further lace at the throat and cuffs. Along with matching skirt with elaborately draped and ruched construction, and with full bustle at the back. To fit 17” lady doll. 3 ½” shoulder width. 8” waist. 13” overall length. Circa 1875. $500/800

75. Blue Cotton Chambray Lady’s Dress with Navy Blue Trim Of pale blue cotton chambray, the princess-style gown features a tapered

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75. waist and flared sides, with 16 handmade button holes and pearl buttons extended down the entire front, broderie Anglaise at the collar, navy blue pleated cuffs and hem edging, and a modified bustle at the back. To fit 20” lady-bodied doll. 5” shoulder width. 8 ½” waist. 16” overall length. Circa 1875. $200/400

76. Collection of Doll Jewelry Including a strand of white bead pearls with bead trimmed cross, black onyx brooch on chain with carved intaglio profile of woman, ormolu sunflower with chain, blue enamel faux-watch with bird and floral design, small chain link bracelet, and brooch with blue mosaic floral design. 5” diam. white bead necklace. Circa 1880. $300/500


76.

77.

77. Lace Coiffe with Flowers and Silk Ribbons The cone-shaped coiffe is of padded blue cotton muslin covered with guipure lace, decorated with a gathered flounce of guipure lace accented with white silk flowers and silk peach and aqua silk twill ribbons. 4 ½”h. 2 ½” inside head width. Circa 1875. $300/400

78. Pale Blue Linen Gown with Bishop Sleeve and Ruffled Lace Detail Of very pale blue linen, the gown has flat front with shaped sides, angled button closure with handmade buttonholes on the unusual flap design and with brass buttons, very full bishop sleeves with self-cording at the shoulders which extends down side seams and forms three fulllength cords at the back. There is a shaped pocket, knife pleats, knife pleats at the hem, and

78. a double row of knife pleats at the back hem. Generous lace accents the dress overall. To fit 22” doll. 5” shoulder width. 12” relaxed waist. 18” overall length. Circa 1865. $300/500

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79.

79. Black Wool Twill Jacket and Very Fine Woven Bonnet The black bolero style jacket with slit pagoda sleeves is fully lined and decorated with black soutache embroidery. Along with a brown woven straw bonnet with wide brim having upturned side, black velvet edging and band, trimmed with velvet bow and black feathers, with lining and rose velvet rosettes on the neck ties. 5” shoulders. 1 ½” inside head width. Circa 1860. $500/700

82. Black and Rose Velvet Feathered Bonnet in Original Box (Not Shown)

82.

The flat-topped black velvet bonnet with high sides and upturned brim has rose velvet plush lining, and is trimmed with double bands of rose satin and a lavish boa feather. The hat is contained in its original box. 4”l. 2” inside head width. Circa 1870. $300/500

83.

80, 81.

80. Two Petite Black Hats for Fashionable Ladies

83. Four Accessories for Lady Doll

Comprising wire-framed black velvet toque with black bead and feather trim, and having silk lining. Along with a multi-layered lace bonnet with black silk streamers and silk rose buds. 2” head diameter. Circa 1870. $400/500

Including bone-handled parasol with black silk cover, black kidskin slippers with hand-stitched soles and silver buckles, black lace fichu, and a lavishly-decorated coronet of silk flowers and beads. 8” parasol length. 2 ¼”l. slippers. Circa 1865. $700/900

81. Ten Wooden Miniature Hat Stands

84. Ivory Silk Bonnet and Cream Kidskin Gloves

Each with natural finish, the carved hat stands have ball-shaped crowns. $200/300

The bonnet is covered with ivory silk in an elaborately draped manner, and has clusters of curled flowers, twisted cord edging, and stitcheddown pleated silk inner brim. Along with cream kidskin gloves with

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84. overcast stitching, button wrists, and green kidskin edging. 4”l. bonnet. 2” inside width of bonnet. 4”l. gloves. Circa 1875. $400/600

85. Bone-Handled Pagoda-Shaped Parasol A delicate carved bone handle has pagoda-shaped interior structure, (recovered, somewhat frail) aqua silk cover and Alencon lace edging and finial. 8”l. Circa 1865. $400/600

86.

86. Black Velvet Toque with Alencon Lace Streamers The flat-topped black velvet toque is edged by a narrow brim of Alencon lace under blue draped silk accented under tiny clear beads, and with Alencon streamers interwoven with aqua silk ribbons. Along with a blue silk waist sash with large bow and streamers. 3 ½” inside head width. Circa 1860. $400/500

87. Fancy Bonnet with Embroidered Tulle Rosettes Constructed of ruffled stitcheddown bands of black silk taffeta which are encircled with six rosettes of embroidered tulle interwoven with blue silk ribbons, and accented with black chenille loops and blue 87. silk bow and streamers. Along with a blue silk waist sash and lappets with guipure lace overlay. 5”h. 2 ½” inside head width. Circa 1865. $400/600

88. Tiny Brass Lorgnette with “Love is Blind” Inscription The brass lorgnette with hinged spectacles has belt loop and is inscribed “Love is Blind”. 1” Circa 1875. $300/400

85.

88.

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89. Crisp Ice blue Silk Evening Gown with Demi-Train Of crisp ice blue silk, the two-piece ensemble features a rounded neckline, dartfitted bodice, bishop sleeves, constructed internal bone and lacing grommets at the back, Alencon lace trim. Along with matching skirt with flat-front, cartridge pleating at the back waist, and extended train, with sewn-down fringed pleats around the skirt, fringed hem. For 20”-21” lady doll. 5” shoulder width. 8 ½” waist. 17” overall length. Circa 1870. $600/800

90. Blue Brushed Velvet Jacket with Braided Closure Of lush brushed blue velvet, the box-shaped jacket has coat sleeves, silk lapels and lining, silk-covered buttons and looped braided closures. For 20”-21” lady doll. 5” shoulder width. Circa 1870. $400/500

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91. Brushed Velvet Ivory Hooded Cape with Silk Fringe Of brushed ivory silk velvet the lush cape has an intricatelystructured hood, and is fully-silk lined. Long silk fringe edges the cape which is also trimmed with velvet and silk tassels and cord. For 20”-21” lady doll. 5” shoulder width. Circa 1870. $400/600

92. Striped Silk Three-Piece Bustled Ensemble Of ochre/bronze and black striped silk, the three piece ensemble features a dart-shaped fullylined jacket with self-covered buttons, edged by a border of stitched-down pleats and tulle. Along with goreshaped skirt with wide band of narrow stitched-down pleats at the hem and tulle edging; and a detachable overskirt with wide gathered side flounces, back bustle and further tulle trim. For 20”-21” lady doll. 5” shoulder width. 8” waist. 17” overall length. Circa 1870. $700/900

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93. Black Taffeta Fashion Ensemble with Elaborately-Constructed Skirt Of crisp black taffeta, the two-piece ensemble features a fully-lined dart-shaped jacket with modified pagoda style sleeves, tiny black faceted buttons, and intricate edging around the neckline, hem and sleeves of tulle, white lace, and black Alencon lace. With matching skirt having flat front with attached overskirt, train, and extended lappets, and having elaborate trim to match the jacket. For 20”-21” lady doll. 5” shoulder width. 8” waist. 17” overall length. Circa 1870. $700/900

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94. Woven Straw Bonnet and BrownHandled Parasol Of brown woven straw with black velvet lining on the inside brim, and the exterior decorated with a taffeta ruffle that is enhanced with a coral-edged black silk ribbon bow. Along with a brown metal handled parasol with black silk cover, and black silk protector. 5”h. bonnet. 2” inside head width. 11”l. parasol. Circa 1870. $400/600

96.

95. Undergarments and Stockings for Lady Dolls Including six petticoats with various trim and embroidery, button waist, cartridge pleating (one 95. with matching bustle); along with three shifts, one pair of pantalets, and three pairs of white knit stockings. For 15”-16” lady dolls. 6” waist. Circa 1870. $500/800

96. Tiny Pin-Striped Cotton Dress Of narrow pink/white stripes, the dress features gathers at the center bodice below fitted neckline with lace edging, sleeves with fitted cuffs, set-in waist, very full gathered skirt with cartridge pleats at the back, pearl button and loop closure. To fit 9” doll. 2 ½” shoulders. 5 ½” waist. 7” overall length. Circa 1860. $200/300

97. Lady’s Cotton Ensemble with Extended Length Fitted jacket

97.

Of white fabric with abstract patterned rose design, the ensemble features a jacket with fitted bodice, hidden hook and loop front closures, and of extended length with flared peplum, dropped shoulders with wide pagoda sleeves, self-piping at neck edge, full skirt with cartridge pleating, white banding at sleeve and jacket edge. With original couturier stamp from Au Calife du Baghdad. To fit 12” doll. 3” shoulders, 5” waist. 9” overall length. Circa 1859. $300/500

98. Cotton Print Gown with Pagoda Sleeves from Au Calife du Baghdad Of creamy cotton printed with abstract tiny red and black design, the gown features a box-pleated bodice attached to a waist band with front ruching, below a fitted yoke, pagoda sleeves with box-pleated shoulders, set-in waistband, full skirt with triple tiers of ruffles, lace trim at the rounded neckline and sleeve edges. The label of “Au Caliph du Baghdad” of Monsieur Herbillon is stamped on the dress interior. To fit 12” lady doll. 3” shoulder width. 5 ½” waist. 9” overall length. Circa 1855. $300/500 98.

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99. Velvet and Silk Festival Costume for Child Doll Three-piece ensemble featuring a black velvet vest trimmed with gold edge lappets and with hook-and-eye closure accented by gold silk edging, draped rose velvet neckline border, and a cluster of colorful silk ribbons at the shoulder; white silk blouse with fitted cuffs and tucks; and a unique four-tiered skirt of colorful silk panels. For 34”-36” child doll. 8” shoulder width. 20” waist. 22” overall length. Circa 1885. $400/650

100.

100. Plum Velvet Bonnet with Mauve Satin Banding

99.

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The wire-framed richly-draped velvet bonnet with graduated size brim is richly decorated with draped and folded mauve wide satin ribbons, accented with decorated metallic stars, and fully lined. 9”h. 3” inside head width. Circa 1880. $300/500


101.

101. Taupe Flannel Bonnet with Unusual Embroidery and Milliner’s Paris Label The taupe flannel wool bonnet, designed to rest on the back of the head, is richly draped and embellished with ecru embroidery and accented with steel beading. The wire-framed bonnet (some few moth holes) is edged with burgundy silk, and is fully lined and bears the gilt lettered label of Melanie Paen at 11 Rue St. Honore in Paris. 7”h. 5” inside head width. Circa 1870. $300/500

102. Ivory Silk Two-Piece Ensemble for Child Doll with Mauve Edging The two-piece ensemble of ivory silk with tiny mauve dots features a fitted square-cut bodice, button front, scallop-shaped sleevelets, square-shaped lappets all-around. And a flatfront skirt which gathers at the back and forms into a generous bustle above scalloped-shaped ruffled tiers. The edges of the bodice and skirt are finished with mauve silk. For 32”-34” child doll. 8” shoulders. 22” waist. 20” overall length. Circa 1860. $600/800

102.

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103. Textured White Drop-Waist Dress and Woven Bonnet Of textured white fabric, the dress features tapered sides, button front, double-box pleated lower skirt, draped self-sash at the hips, double jacket tails at the back, coat sleeves with turn-up cuffs. The cuffs, sash and hem are edged with broderie Anglaise. Along with an intricately woven bonnet with silk ribbon frou-frou, and with upturned brim, velvet lining on the under brim. For 18” doll. 4” shoulder width. 10” relaxed waist. 11” overall length. 6”l. bonnet. 2 ½” inside head width. Circa 1880. $600/800

104. Cream Cashmere Dress with Plaid Cashmere Trim 103.

Of cream cashmere, the princess style dress has plaid cashmere lapels and cuffs, ten silk-covered buttons, green silk band at the hem and forming two large shoulder bows; and the back trimmed with alternating knifepleated tiers of green and plaid silk centered by a wide bow. For 17”18” doll. 5” shoulder width. 12” relaxed waist. 11” overall length. Circa 1880. $300/500

104 back

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104.


105.

105. Fancily-Woven Straw Bonnet with Aqua Silk Frou-Frou The rounded cap with upturned sides is constructed with fanshaped straw design, 105 detail trimmed with flounces of tulle, criss-crossed braid and elaborately draped aqua silk ribbons and bows, and has linen lining. 8”l. 6” inside head width. Circa 1865. $300/500

106. Guipure Lace Dress with Drop-Waist and Aqua Silk Ribbons Of loosely-woven ecru guipure lace, the drop-waist dress has short sleevelets, and a wide hip sash above a double row of ruffles. The dress is decorated with aqua silk bows at the shoulders and front and back center of the sash, along with alternating bands of interwoven aqua silk ribbons. For 32”-34” doll. 8” shoulder width. 19” overall. Circa 1880. $400/600

106 detail

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107. Burgundy and Grey Silk Jacket-Dress with Fancily-Decorated Bonnet The jacket-style dress features a burgundy silk jacket front over ruched silk dress front, burgundy silk dress back with gold decorative buttons over hook and loop closure, coat sleeves, burgundy edging at the hem, lace trim at collar and cuffs. Along with woven straw bonnet with upturned brim at the back, with striped silk lining on the inside brim that extends into a draped flounce at the outside crown, and with bi-color feather and burgundy silk bows. For 14” doll. 4” shoulder width, 8” overall length. Circa 1880. $500/800

108. Pair of French Kidskin Shoes, Size 8, by Bru

109. Pair of French Kidskin Shoes, Size 1, by Bru

110. Pair of Cream Kidskin Shoes, Size 1, by Bru

111. Pair of Tan Leather Ankle Boots, Size 2, by Bru

Of black kidskin with twill lining, the shoes have silver button ankle boots and are trimmed with brown silk rosettes, and inscribed “8” and “B” in an oval script on the soles. 2 ½”l. Circa 1880. $300/500

Of black kidskin with brown edging, black button ankle closures, leather bows with silver buckles, and having brown soles inscribed “Bru Jne Paris” and “1”. 1 ¾”l. Circa 1885. $300/500

Of cream kidskin with overcast stitching on edges, silver button ankle closures, and silk bows, with “1” and “B” in oval inscribed on soles. 1 ½”. Circa 1885. $300/500

The tan leather boots have overcast stitching and metaledged grommets, with original lacing and pom-pom trim, inscribed “B” in an oval and “2” on the soles. 2 ¾” Circa 1885. $300/500

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112.

113.

112. Cream Flannel Woolen Drop-Waist Dress and Woven Bonnet Of cream flannel, the drop-waist dress has stitched-down knife pleats that extend down the front, with box pleats below the hips, matching draped hip sash, coat sleeves, embroidered lace trim and rose satin bows at back hips. Hook and loop closure, bodice fully lined, moth holes on the dress. Along with a woven bonnet with graduated width brim that is silk lined on the inside brim, and is decorated with a rose silk cluster on the outside. For 15”-16” doll. 3 ½” shoulder width. 12” relaxed hips. 9” overall length. Circa 1882. $400/600

113. White Cotton Dress of Broderie Anglaise, Undergarments, and Woven Bonnet Of white cotton with embroidered cutwork known as broderie Anglaise, the drop-waist dress features two rows of ruffles below the set-in hips, short sleeves, lace trim at the neckline and sleeve edges. Along with original matching undergarments and socks. Along with a brown woven bonnet with sateen lining, and decorated with brown velvet and red silk faille bands. For 14” doll. 3” shoulder width. 10” relaxed hips. 8” overall length. Circa 1882. $500/700

114. Collection of Doll Jewelry and Accessories Including 5” diam. burgundy bead necklace, pair of pierced earrings

114. with clasp enclosing coral stones, gold chain link purse with chatelaine loop, and faux-watch with enamel back, and ormolu brooch pin. Circa 1880. $300/500

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116. Woven Straw Bonnet with Tulle and Floral Decoration

116.

Of intricately woven straw, the flat-topped bonnet has graduated width brim and is lavishly decorated with burgundy silk moire ribbon, red tulle, and clusters of white lilies of the valley. 9”h. 3” inside head width. Circa 1885. $200/400

117. Woven Straw Bonnet with Striped Velvet Lining and Bows 115. Rose Chambray Cotton Drop-Waist Dress Of rose chambray, the drop-waist dress features coat sleeves with knife pleats at the cuffs, knife pleats below the hips, hook and loop closure at the front, small rounded collar over a wide collar which extends over the shoulders and onto upper back torso. With lace trim on collar, jacket front, hips, hem and cuffs. For 23-25” child doll. 6” shoulder width. 15” relaxed hips. 16” overall length. Circa 1882. $300/500

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Of woven straw with zig-zag edging, the flattop bonnet has graduated width brim and is covered on the inside brim with striped velvet and trailing garlands of flowers that are repeated on the outside and forming into large bows and floral clusters. 7 ½”h. 2 ½” inside head width. Circa 1885. $300/400


117, 117 detail

118. Fine Linen Jacket and Princess-Style Dress with Broderie Anglaise Of finely woven natural linen, the ensemble features a princess-style dress with handmade button holes and wooden buttons, coat sleeves, narrow box pleats at the back below the hips; along with a matching jacket with princess lines which appears as though it was a single unit with the dress. The ensemble features faux pockets, constructed decorative panels at the back, double border of braid trim down the front, and elaborate application of broderie Anglaise edging the jacket front, cuffs, and collar. For 22� child doll. 5� shoulders, 14� overall length. Circa 1880. $700/900

118 detail

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120.

119. Burgundy Wool Dress with Attached Cape The burgundy woolen dress has a fitted bodice with slightly dropwaist, button front with pearl buttons, coat sleeve with triple bands of braided-trim ribbon, box-pleated skirt which is also trimmed by braidedtrim ribbons, with attached hip-length cape with further grosgrain ribbons and a border of guipure lace. For 28”-30” doll. 6” shoulder width. 20”l. overall. Circa 1880. $400/600

120. Burgundy Woolen Bonnet with Lace Crown Of burgundy wool, the wire-framed bonnet is elaborately draped at the back and trimmed with burgundy silk ribbons and bows, with a cluster of ruffled lace at the inside crest trimmed with ecru silk froufrou. 8”l. 4” inside head width. Circa 1880. $200/400

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121. Teal Blue Silk Faille Dress with Burgundy Velvet Trim Of teal blue silk faille, the drop-waist dress has inverted box pleat at the center panel flanked by burgundy velvet lapels, drop-waist above wide box pleats overlaid by draped hip sash which forms into a flounce at the back that is overlaid by burgundy and velvet streamers, and silk moire bows. There is a burgundy velvet collar and cuffs on the coat sleeves. For 27”-29” doll. 7” shoulder width. 19” relaxed waist. 17” overall length. Circa 1884. $400/600

121 back

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122. Collection of Tiny Miniature Costumes for Boys Including suede jacket with gold braid and black velvet trim; purple flannel jacket with shirt and trousers, green flannel jacket with embroidered brown silk vest, and seven other additional costumes or costume parts. For dolls 3”-7”, Circa 1880. $300/500

123. Red Woolen Soldier’s Cap with Gold Braid

124. Brown Pressed Flannel Hat

Red woolen flat-top hat with burgundy velvet sides has a leather brim and is decorated with very rich gold braid trim and edging, brass buttons. 5” inside head diam. Circa 1885. $200/400

The firmly-pressed brown flannel hat has wide brim, and is trimmed with pale green silk band and feathers, and a silk bow on the inside brim. 4”h. 2 ½” inside head width. Circa 1885. $200/300

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125. Lady’s Brown Silk and Serge Ensemble, with Bonnet Of alternating bands of brown silk and textured serge, ensemble features a fitted jacket with brown silk sleeves, decorative glass buttons, lace trim, and matching skirt (some frailty of silk). Along with a woven straw bonnet with purple velvet band and feather trim. For 14” doll. 3” shoulder width. 6” waist. Circa 1875. $300/400

126. Brown Curly Faux Lambswool Cap with Bronze Bow The rounded Cossack style cap is made of brown curly faux lambswool with brown silk faille lining and a large bronze silk bow. 5”h. 5” inside head width. Circa 1880. $300/400

127. Patterned Wool Drop-Waist Dress with Brown Velvet Trim The drop-waist dress is made of a woven patterned wool fabric, with handmade button holes at the front accented with imprinted brass buttons, brown velvet neckline and turned up cuffs of the coat sleeves, and with wide pleats below the brown velvet hip belt. For 22” doll, 6” shoulder width. 14” overall length. Circa 1880. $300/500

121 back

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128. Burgundy Silk Dress with Parasol and Bonnet

129. Ivory Silk/Cashmere CoatDress with Coral Trim

Of Burgundy silk, the two-piece ensemble features a jacket with full center panel, coat sleeves, lace edging at neckline and cuffs, with matching skirt having large box pleat at center and narrower knife pleats all around, burgundy silk bows. Along with a wooden handled lace parasol, and with a woven straw bonnet with burgundy velvet band. For 17” doll. 4” shoulders. 10” waist. 12” overall length. Circa 1875. $400/600

Of ivory silk/cashmere faille, the coatdress has a delicate coral silk edge at the coat opening, hem, and cuffs, pearl buttons, coat neckline overlaid with lace, and coral peach twill shoulder bow. The back of the dress has three coral vertical bands above back hip sash and two tiered rows of pleats. For 18” doll. 4 ⅓” shoulder width. 12” overall length. Circa 1880. $400/600

129 back

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130. French Kidskin Shoes, Size 2, by Bru Of (worn) brown kidskin with button closure ankle straps, leather bows and silver buckles, leather soles impressed “Bru Jne Paris” in oval, and “2”. 2”. Circa 1882. $200/400

131. French Kidskin Shoes by Bru, Size 1 Black kidskin shoes with button closure on the ankle straps, leather bow and silver buckles, leather soles impressed “Bru Jne Paris” and “1”. 1 ¾”. Circa 1882. $200/400

132. Woven Red Straw Bonnet with Velvet Lining Of red woven straw with concave crown, upturned brim with braid edging, and having maroon velvet lining of inside brim, with brass ornament at one side, and burgundy silk bows and braided cord at the other. 6”l. 2 ½” inside head diam. Circa 1880. $200/400

133. Burgundy Velvet and Silk Plaid Dress for Bru Bébé

132.

The intricately-constructed drop-waist dress of plaid silk and burgundy velvet, features such details as silk piping on the burgundy collar, wide bands of embroidered lace collar and center panels, ruching at the center panel, and brass buttons. For 12” doll. 2 ½” shoulder width. 10” hips. 8” overall length, Circa 1880. $700/900

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135. Burgundy Plush Velvet Bonnet with Ivory Silk Lining The soft burgundy plush velvet bonnet has cap back with ruffled brim, burgundy bow and streamers, and is lined with triple tiers of ivory silk ruffles. 5 ½”h. 2 ¼” inside head width. Circa 1880. $300/400

134. Textured Burgundy Waffle-Weave Silk Drop-Waist Dress with Aqua Silk Accents

136. Burgundy Flannel Hat with Velvet, Silk and Feathered Trim

Of waffle-weave burgundy silk, the dress has drop-waist above pleated skirt, center panel of pale green silk flanked by embroidered lace bretelles, pale green cuffs with lace edging and lace ruffles which match the neck ruffles, aqua silk faille sash which forms into a wide bow at the back. For 16”- 17” doll. 4” shoulder width. 12” hip width. 10” overall length, Circa 1882. $300/500

Of burgundy flannel, the rounded cap bonnet has a narrow burgundy velvet-lined brim, velvet band, and a cluster of aqua and burgundy ribbons and striped feathers. 5”h. 2” inside head width, Circa 1875. $200/400

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137.1. Woven “Bourrelet” Cap with Aqua Velour Tassels The loosely-woven solid-sided cap is decorated with green velour zig-zag appliqued and tassel trim, and was designed to be worn by a toddler learning to walk, for protection to the head crown should the child fall. 4”h. 3” inside head width, Circa 1875. $200/300

137. Pale Green Wool Twill Drop-Waist Dress with Velour Cap Pale green wool twill dress with drop-waist, handmade button front with silk covered buttons, wide hip sash above narrow pleats, coat sleeves with turn-up cuffs, rounded collar that shapes into a square dropped collar at the back. The dress (with some moth wear and tears) is decorated with very dainty cream featherstitch and floral embroidery. Along with a green velour richly-draped cap with silk lining and faille bows. For 15”- doll. 3 ½” shoulder width. 9”overall length. Circa 1880. $500/700

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139. Ivory Satin Bonnet with Bavolet and Frou-Frou Of fine ivory silk satin, the bonnet is wire-framed with well-detailed ruching, and inverted box pleating forming a bavolet which is enhanced by narrow pleating at the edging, and with a generous ivory silk bow at the back, and frou-frou ribbons accenting the outer brim. 11”l. 4 ½” inside head width. Circa 1875. $300/500

138. Cream Cashmere Wool Dress with Silk Panel Cream cashmere wool princess-style dress with center panel of generously ruched ivory silk, with shirred detail at the lower sides and about the back, with bishop sleeves, hook and loop closure, scalloped borders of broderie Anglaise flanking the center panel and hem. For 29”-32” doll. 7” shoulder width. 19” overall. Circa 1880. $500/700 138 detail

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140. Cream Kidskin Shoes with Silk Rosettes and Silver Butterflies Of soft cream kidskin with hand-stitched twill edging, has silver buttons on ankle closure, silk rosettes centered by silver butterflies, leather soles inscribed with “P” in circle. 2 ½”l. Circa 1880. $200/400


141. Child’s Ivory Silk Dress with Elaborate Construction, for GrandSized Doll Of ivory silk in variant pattern and satin finish, the princess-style dress has a center panel of richly ruched fabric, edged by ivory silk-brocade bands, and framed by elaborately draped side panels which form under tassel-edged lappets at the center back. With self-covered buttons, coat-shaped sleeves, silk-brocade turn-up cuffs, and fine lace trim including at the neckline, cuffs, hem, and side panels. For 42”-44” doll. 10” shoulders. 24” relaxed waist. 27” overall length. Circa 1880. $500/750

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142. Blue Velvet Dress with Aqua Silk and Guipure Lace Trim The jacket-style dress of vibrant blue velvet features bishop sleeves with pleats at the shoulders, and very long guipure lace edging which is repeated at the center panel and extends around the hips, tucked under the lappets. Blue velvet pleats extend around the entire dress below the hips, and the fully lined dress has hook-and-eye closure. For 32”-34” doll. 9” shoulder width. 22” overall length. Circa 1880. $500/800

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143. Royal Blue Velvet Dress with Lace Trim Of vibrant blue velvet, the jacket-style dress has coat sleeves, aqua neck ribbons, and an aqua silk twill sash and bow at the back hips, a wide band of lace around the hem, and lace-edged cuffs and neck. For 8”-9” doll. 2 ½” shoulder width. 5” overall length. Circa 1885. $200/400

144. Blue Velvet Cap with Tassel and Milliner’s Label Of lush blue velvet, the square-shaped commencement cap has a leather-edged interior band, and is centered on the outside crown by a coiled braid and long tassel. The interior is of padded red silk.

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8” outside dimension. 5” inside head width. With original milliner’s label. Circa 1885. $200/400

145. Ivory Plush Velvet Princess Dress with Teal Velvet Shoulder Bows Very lush silky cream plush velvet forms a princess dress with button front and full short sleeves with slit opening. The dress is edged with teal blue silk and lace and has lush teal velvet bows at the shoulders. For 17”-18” doll. 5” shoulder width. 12” overall length. Circa 1884. $400/500

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147. Aqua Kidskin Shoes with Silk Rosettes by Alart Aqua kidskin shoes with button closure on ankle straps, aqua silk rosettes, leather soles impressed with full figure of a doll and “4 Depose”. 2”. Circa 1885. $200/400

148. Woven Straw Bonnet with Elaborate Decorations Of fancily-woven straw, the flat-topped hat has a wide brim and aqua silk faille band which is decorated with green boa feather, and a cluster of tiny silk flowers. 7” width. 3” inside head width. Circa 1885. $200/300

146. Blue Twill Coat-Dress with Belgian Lace Trim Of aqua blue twill, the coat-dress has button front with handmade button holes and opaline buttons, rounded collar with Belgian lace trim, coat sleeves with turned up cuffs trimmed with same lace, pockets with lace trim, and lace edging around the hem of the dress. For 19”-20” doll. 5” shoulder width. 12” overall length. Circa 1875. $300/500

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149. Aqua Kidskin Jumeau Shoes

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Of soft aqua kidskin the shoes have silver button ankle strap closure, and leather soles incised “E. Jumeau Med d’Or Paris Depose” and (illegible) size number. Circa 1882. $200/300

150. Aqua Kidskin Shoes with Silver Buckles Of pale aqua in soft kidskin, the ankle straps have silver medallion closures, and aqua kidskin bows with silver buckles. Stamped “O”. 1 ½”. Circa 1890. $200/300

151. White Waffle-Weave Princess-Style Dress with Blue Silk Sash

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Of textured white waffle-weave, the princess style dress has coat sleeves, 12 buttons with handmade button holes, the placket edged by Belgian lace, and with narrow collar at the sides that forms into a square collar at the back, pockets with lace edging and pearl buttons, coat sleeves with lace edging, pleating at the back below the hips that is edged by a wide blue sash and bow. For 20” doll. 4 ½” shoulder width. 12” overall length. Circa 1882. $400/600

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153. Tan Leather Bébé Shoes for Bébé Au Bon Marche, Size 5 Of tan leather shoes with cream overcast stitching, ankle straps with metal buckle and button closure, and leather soles impressed “Au Bébé Bon Marche Bochet 63 Rue de Sevres 5”. 2”l. Circa 1890. $200/300

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154. Cream Kidskin Shoes with PomPoms Of cream kidskin with overcast stitching, ankle straps with grommet and lace closure, pom-pom

152. Teal Blue Twill Coat-Dress with Box Pleated Back Of teal blue twill, the coat-dress with flare-shaped sides has faux double-breasted construction, coat sleeves, elaborately-constructed pleats below the back hips, wide collar, faux-double breasted front with five buttons and handmade button holes, fancy buttons, lace ruffle at the throat and cuffs. For 20”21” doll. 5” shoulder width. 14” overall length. Circa 1880. $300/500

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accents, cardstock soles to simulate leather. 3”l. Circa 1890. $200/300

155. Cream Kidskin Ankle Boots Of soft cream kidskin, the ankle boots have aqua overcast stitching along the edges, three pairs of brass-edged grommets, original beige laces and beige pom-pom trims, cardstock soles impressed “5”. 2 ½”. Circa 1890. $100/200

156. Navy Blue Twill Mariner Costume and Woven Bonnet Of navy blue twill, the two-piece ensemble features a blouson jacket with middy collar, V-shaped yoke with braid striping that matches the braid trim on the collar, cuffs of coat sleeves, and around the edge of the matching skirt with inverted box pleats. Along with a bi-color woven hat with widebrim and navy blue richlydraped band. For 27”-28” doll. 7” shoulder width. 18” waist. 18” overall length. Circa 1890. $500/700

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158. soft brown leather soles impressed “E. Jumeau Med d’Or (in box) Paris 5”. 2”. Circa 1880. $300/400

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159. Black Kidskin Shoes for Bébé Jumeau with Gilt Lettering, Size 3 Of black kidskin with brown overcast stitching, ankle straps with black button closure, brown silk bows, brown leather soles with rich gilt lettering “Bébé Jumeau Med d’Or 1878 Paris Depose” and impressed 3. 1 ¾”. Circa 1884. $200/400

157. Aqua Silk Satin Jacket-Dress with Ruched Center Panel Of aqua silk satin, the jacket-dress features extended-length faux-jacket with cord edging that flanks a richly ruched center panel, above wide pleats over muslin pleated dust ruffle, coat sleeves with turn-up cuffs, collar, and lace ruffle at the neckline and cuffs. For 13”-14” doll. 3” shoulder width. 8”l. Circa 1882. $600/900

158. Aqua Kidskin “E.J.” Shoes For Bébé Jumeau, Size 5 Of aqua kidskin with hand-stitched edging, ankle straps with gold button closure, aqua silk rosettes,

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160. Black Kidskin Bébé Shoes with Rosette and Silver Star Decorations Of black kidskin with brown silk hand-stitched edging, ankle straps with black bead buttons, brown silk rosettes with impressed silver stars, brown soles impressed “5 * Paris Depose”. 2”. Circa 1885. $200/400

161. Pale Apple Green Satin Dress with Elaborate Construction Of very lustrous pale green silk satin, the elaboratelyconstructed dress has elaborately constructed drapes and folds, above a row of narrow pleats which match the unusual constructed pleats on the sleeves. The dress has constructed flounces at the back and ivory satin ribbon, and is decorated with embroidered lace. The dress is fully lined and has attached dust ruffle. For 11”-12” doll. 3” shoulder width. 7” overall length. Circa 1882. $600/900

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163. Rose Satin Shoes for Bébé Jumeau, Size 7

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The rose satin shoes with overcast stitching, have rose silk ribbons at the ankle ties, and rose silk bows. The shoes are impressed with outlined of a bee and “Paris Depose 7”. 2 ½”. Circa 1890. $200/300

164. Cream Kidskin Shoes for Bébé Jumeau, Size 7

162. Pastel-Patterned Silk Dress with Lace Bretelles Of dot-patterned silk in pastel colors, the dress has full bodice with rose center panel and sash, wide lace bretelles that extend around the back bodice, very full sleeves, narrow allaround skirt pleats. For 16” doll. 4” shoulder width. 9” waist. 11” overall length. Circa 1888. $300/400

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Of soft creamy kidskin, with hand-stitching around the edges, ankle straps with silver buttons, rose silk twill ribbon bows, with dark leather soles impressed “E. Jumeau Med d’Or (in box) Paris Depose 7”. 2 ¼”. Circa 1880. $300/500


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165. Petite Rose Silk Satin Dress with Matching Bonnet Of rose satin, the dress features a fitted yoke, very full bodice achieved by flounced box pleats, ruching at the waist, boxpleating of sleeve shoulders, wide fitted cuffs, full skirt; the dress is decorated with wide bands of brocade ribbon around the skirt, and lace ruffles at the shoulder. Included is a matching wireframed bonnet having pleated rose silk covering and generouslyfeathered border. Included is the original petticoat and white net socks. For 11”-12” doll. 3” shoulder width. 8” waist. 7 ½”l. overall. Circa 1885. $700/900

165.1. Black Kidskin “E.J.” Shoes for Bébé Jumeau, Size 6

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Of black kidskin with brown overcast stitching, the shoes have ankle straps with black bead button closure, and brown silk rosettes, tan leather soles impressed “E.J. (in circle) Paris 6”. 2 ¼”l. Circa 1884. $200/300

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166. Textured Rose/Cream Dress with Fitted Yoke Of intricately woven fabric in rose and cream pattern, the dress has a fitted yoke above a center gathered bodice, with ruffle at the hemline, and with lace trim at the cuffs and neckline, and coral satin sash that forms into a large bow at the back. For 18”-19” doll. 5” shoulder width. 12” overall length. Circa 1882. $300/500

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167. Woven Straw Bonnet with Wide Brim Of intricately woven bonnet with wide brim, the flat-topped bonnet has cream silk band and is decorated with rose silk petals, moss and vine. 7”h. 3” inside head width. Circa 1890. $200/300

168. Black Kidskin Shoes for Bébé E.J. by Jumeau, Size 12 Of soft black kidskin with brown overcast stitching, ankle straps with black bead buttons, and large brown silk rosettes. With leather soles impressed “E.J. (in circle) Depose 12”. And with original rose knit Jumeau stockings. 4”l. Circa 1885. $300/500

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169. Rose Silk Faille Dress with Matching Bonnet and Rose Silk Parasol Of horizontally-ribbed rose silk faille, the dress features a fitted yoke with horizontal pleats edged by wide lace bretelles, full elbow-length sleeves with 2” wide cuffs, ruching below the yoke falls into full folds. Along with an intricately woven flat-top bonnet with wide 3” brim and a lavish rose satin bow, and with a wooden handled parasol with amber-marble grip, and rose silk cover with lavish embroidered tulle lace trim. For 30” doll. 7” shoulder width. 19” overall length. 16”l. parasol. 10” overall width of bonnet. 4 inside head width. Circa 1890. $1100/1500

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170. Elegant Silk Satin Costume with Couturier Detail and Extended Train Of vibrant lime green silk satin, the bodice features a V-shaped neckline with richlydraped folds at both front and back, and hidden lacing with bone construction at the back, full bishop sleeves of patterned coral silk with lime green sleeve bands. Along with matching fully-lined gore-shaped skirt of coral satin having interwoven floral design and extended train. For 22”-23” doll. 5 ½” shoulder width. 10” waist. 18” overall length. Circa 1890. $400/600

171. Luxurious Ivory Silk Satin Gown with Fan and Matching Bonnet Of luxurious ivory silk satin, the high-waist gown features horizontal pleats on the yoke above loose box pleats that give fullness to the gown, very full bishop sleeves with dark shaping at the shoulder, two bands of boxpleated tulle at the hem and with generous accent of wide silk ribbon and sash, and with little applique rose silk petals and garlands of flowers on the shoulders. Attached to the sash is a wooden-handled silk fan with tinsel decorated crepe paper blades. Along with a matching wire-framed bonnet of draped and flounced tulle, with very wide brim, decorated with a garland of rose petals, and with a wide silk ribbon band and bow to match the dress sash. For 38”-40” doll. 8” shoulder width. 28” overall length. Circa 1885. $1100/1500

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172. Tiny Brown Corduroy Jacket and Hat with Linen Trousers Of brown corduroy the fully-lined faux double-breasted jacket has wide rounded collar with braid trim and tiny brass buttons as accents. Along with matching cap with silk edging. And with linen breeches. For 11” doll. 3” shoulder width. 7” waist. 8” overall length. Circa 1880. $300/400

173. Black Leather Shoes for Bébé Bru, Size 0 Of soft black kidskin leather with hand-stitched detail along the edge and with ankle straps with black bead button closure, the shoes have brown leather soles impressed “Bru Jne Paris” and “0”. $300/500

175. Black/Brown Silk Dress with Gold Velvet and Silk Trim

Of narrow silk black and brown stripes, the dress has fitted bodice with V-shaped gold velvet bodice, with gold velvet bands around the skirt and cuffs, yellow featherstitching at the cuffs, neckline and hem, and dainty gold velvet frou-frou bows. For 17”-18” doll. 4” shoulder width. 11” waist. 12” overall length. Circa 1885. $200/300

174. Three Pairs of Tiny Leather Shoes Including brown leather shoes with tan overcast edging and silver button closure on ankle straps, impressed 23; tan kidskin shoes with cream overcast stitching and tan silk bows; and black leatherette shoes with double pair of grommets and black laces, impressed 2/0. Each 1 ¼”. Circa 1885. $300/500

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176. Petite Hazel Silk Dress with Bertha Collar and Matching Bonnet Of woven silk in a soft hazel color, the dress features stitcheddown bodice pleats under lace yoke overlay with ruffled Bertha collar, very full short sleeves with pleating at the shoulders, cartridge pleated skirt, and with silk sash and featherstitch embroidery. Along with woven hat with silk band and ribbons. For 9” doll. 2 ½” shoulder width. 6” waist. 5” overall length. Circa 1890. $200/400

177. Silk Dress with Ruffled Lace Bonnet Of shadow-print brown silk, the dress features a gathered bodice with cotton lace overlay over fitted yoke, all-around pleated skirt, puffed sleeves. Along with a generously ruffled bonnet with decorative yellow silk cap and ribbons. For 9” doll. 2 ½” shoulder width. 6” waist. 5” overall length. Circa 1890. $200/400

178. White Cotton Dress of Broderie Anglaise Of white cotton with rounded collar and all-around rolled collar of lace and scalloped-edge broderie Anglaise, long sleeves with matching trim, drop-waist with alternating vertical bands of lace and broderie Anglaise, and a very full gathered skirt with cutwork and embroidery. Accented with wide silk sash with decorative bows. For 15” doll. 4” shoulder width. 12” hip width. 10” overall length. Circa 1884. $200/400

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180. Brown Silk Parasol with Prismatic Agate Hand Grip The wooden handled parasol with brown silk cover and carved bone accent cap has a prismatic-carved agate hand grip with brass border. 12”l. Circa 1886. $300/500

181. Elaborate Woven Straw Bonnet with Brown Velvet and Feather Trim The intricately woven high bonnet with side brim and one upturned side is trimmed with brown velvet band and ribbon and decorated with lavish boa feather. 6”h. 8”w. 4” inside head diameter. Circa 1886. $200/400

179. Lush Silk Velvet Drop-Waist Dress in Unusual Fabric Design Made of a very soft lush silk velvet having chocolate brown/tan checkered design on the bodice and sleeves, and chocolate brown and bronze checkered design on the skirt and neckline cording. The fully-lined dress features a drop-waist with flat front, coat sleeves, gently gathered skirt, with brown silk hip sash and decorative bows. For 23”-25” doll. 6” shoulder width. 20” relaxed hips. Circa 1882. $500/700

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182. Brown Velvet Drop-Waist Dress with Fancily-Woven Bonnet Of soft brown silk/velvet, the dropwaist dress has silk center pleated panel edged by twill lapels with lace border, velvet self sash, silk faille bows, coat sleeves. Along with tri-color woven bonnet with upturned brim, silk lining, and with decorative silk band, and fanciful floral decorations. For 18” doll. 4” shoulder width. 11” overall length. 4” inside head width. Circa 1884. $400/600

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183. Collection of Eight Silk and Lace Bonnets The cap-shaped bonnets are constructed of fine batiste with embroidered cutwork, lace borders, and bands of silk frou-frou ribbon, in a variety of styles. 3 ½”-5 ½” inside head widths. Circa 1885. $300/500

184. Best Dress with Shoes, Bonnet and Undergarment for Miniature Doll

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Comprising a fully-lined sateen dress with drop-waist above pleated lower skirt edged by a wide hip sash, along with a muslin chemise dress, muslin slip with ruffled lace neckline, panties with lace and rose silk ribbon, lace bonnet with rose silk rosettes, and pale rose kidskin shoes with silver buckles. For 5”-6” doll. 1 ½” shoulder width. Circa 1885. $300/400


185. White Waffle-Weave Pique Coat-Dress with Attached Cape The richly-woven fabric with waffle design composes a coat-style dress with button front, having pearl buttons and handmade button holes, coat sleeves with defined cuffs, box pleats below the waist at the dress back, and an 8” attached flared cape with wide border of scalloped-edge broderie Anglaise. For 20”-21” doll. 5” shoulder width. 12” overall length. Circa 1880. $300/500

186. White Pique Dress with Soutache Trim Of narrow-ribbed white pique, the dress features a fitted yoke of open-weave handmade lace framed by a pique collar front with soutache trim, and a bodice band with further soutache trim from which falls alternate vertical bands of soutache pique and open-weave lace, which are repeated at the back. The dress has bishop-style sleeves with further soutache and lace detail, and a detachable soutache-

embroidered sash. For 28”-30” doll. 8” shoulder width. 18” overall length. Circa 1880. $400/600

187. Textured White Princess Dress with Cutwork Collar Of texture-woven design, the modified princess-style dress features narrow box pleats that extend down the entire front and back of the dress, centering a flat band at the center front with fabric-covered buttons and handmade button holes, with coat sleeves having turn-up defined cuffs, and van-dyke shaped collar of broderie Anglaise. For 22”-23” doll. 6” shoulder width, 15” overall length. Circa 1880. $400/600

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entire front with the top four having handmade button holes, and the remainder as decorative. Along with a woven blue straw bonnet which is overlaid with embroidered tulle, a wide bronze-green satin bow, and a cluster of fabric lilies of the valley, with ruffled lace on the inner brim. For 12” doll. 3’ shoulder width. 7” overall length. Circa 1880. $400/600

189. Three Pairs of Small French Black Leather Shoes Including 1 ¾” pair with ankle straps, brown overcast stitching, black bead closure, leather floret trim with silver buckles; 1 ½” pair with silver buckle accent, ankle straps with silk ties, marked C.M.; and 1 ½” pair with light brown overcast stitching and silver beads at the ankle straps, marked with impressed bee symbol, and Paris Depose, size 0. Circa 1888. $500/600

190. Three Navy Blue Wool Mariner Caps and Cream Kidskin Ankle Boots 188.

188. Petite Navy Blue Coat-Dress with Fancily-Decorated Bonnet Of richly-textured navy blue serge, the coat-style dress features widely flared sides, dart-shaped back bodice, lapel collar, coat sleeves with turned up cuffs, two pockets with faux-flaps, pearl buttons extend down the

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Including 3” (inside width) fully-lined navy blue woolen mariner cap with black grosgrain band, and original gilt lettering on the inside lining,

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and two 1 ¼” (inside width) mariner caps with red and white binding. Along with a pair of cream kidskin ankle boots, 3”l. with three pairs of lacing grommets and original laces. Circa 1890. $300/500

191. Three Pairs of Black Kidskin Shoes with Silver Buckles Including a 2 ½” pair of high ankle boots with double straps, with brown silk edging, silver button closures on the straps, and decorative silver buckles; 2” pair with ankle strap, button closure, and kidskin florette trim with silver medallion centers; and 2” kidskin shoes (of like design to latter) with impressed “Eden Bébé Brevete Paris” on soles. Circa 1885. $400/600

192. Teal Blue Serge Drop-Waist Dress with Plaid Accents Of rich teal blue serge, the drop-waist dress features all-around sewn-down box pleats above a draped plaid wool sash at the hips. Teal blue lappets and two rows of narrow plaid wool pleats fall below the sash. The dress features constructed coat sleeves trimmed with open weave embroidered lace cuffs and maroon bows; and with matching lace open-weave collar. For 18”-19” doll. 4” shoulder width. 15” relaxed hips. 11” overall length. Circa 1880. $400/600

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194. Woven Bi-Color Bonnet with Silk Flowers and Blue Kidskin Shoes The woven straw bonnet in alternate bands of navy blue and natural has a high crown and wide brim with upturned sides, gathered flounces of plum silk on the under brim, muslin lining, and decorated with a bouquet of pale blue silk flowers. Along with aqua kidskin shoes with button closures on the ankle straps, kidskin flower with silver medallion center. 5”l. hat. 2 ½” inside head dimension. 2”l. shoes. Circa 1890. $300/500

193. Silk and Velvet Best Dress with Ruffled Lace Bertha Collar The dress features a rich navy blue velvet fitted yoke and Juliette sleeves with navy blue/white silk gathered bodice and skirt of tiny checkered pattern, and having blue velvet sash, very wide ruffled Alencon lace. Bertha collar that extends completely around the back, and a teal blue silk attached bow. For 20”21” doll. 4 ½” shoulder width. 13” overall length, Circa 1890. $300/500

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195. Cream Corduroy Dress with Guipure Lace Bodice and Fancy Woven Bonnet

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The drop-waist dress features a muslin bodice and short puffed sleeves overlaid with loosely gathered cream guipure lace, above a cream corduroy pleated skirt with matched lace-edged attached suspenders, and with corduroy detail at the rounded neckline and cuffs. Along with an elaborately-woven bonnet with wide upturned brim, patterned silk cap lining, and rich embellishments of ivory silk draped bands and fabric lilies of the valley. For 20”22” doll. 6” shoulder width. 14” overall length. 8” width hat. 4” inside head width. Circa 1890. $500/800

196. Cream Mohair Coat and Fanciful Bonnet Of lush cream mohair, the fully lined coat features three large pearl buttons at the front with handmade button holes, coat sleeves, and rounded collar. Along with an intricately woven bonnet with narrow silk ribbons and crochet, with wire framing, ruched blue chiffon on inside brim, and an elaborately-draped bow with feathered accents on the outside. For 23”-24” doll. 7” shoulder width. 14” overall length. 7” hat width. 3” 196. inside head width. Force 1890. $300/500

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197. Apple-Green Dress of Luxury Woven Fabric

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Of apple-green cotton fabric with interwoven abstract design and polished sateen stripes, the dress features a fitted yoke of guipure lace over sateen silk, a very full gathered bodice, with pouf sleeves, and a skirt of very narrow all-around pleats. The dress is decorated with aqua green silk sash and shoulder bows. For 27”-28” doll. 7” shoulder width. 18” waist. 19” overall length. Circa 1885. $400/500

198. Peach and Ivory Silk Faille Dress with Streamers

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The dress comprises an ivory silk faille fitted bodice whose fitted sides and back are centered by a draped center panel that is bordered by coral frou-frou ribbons and shoulder bows, full sleeves with fitted cuffs, and peach silk faille skirt with box pleats at the front and cartridge pleating at the back, decorated with coral and ivory silk streamers. For 18”-20” doll. 4” shoulder width. 12” waist. 12” overall length. Circa 1880. $400/600


199. Emerald Green Silk Dress with Green Velvet Bonnet Of vibrant emerald green silk satin, the dress features a box-pleated bodice with gathers at the rounded neckline, set-in waist, full skirt, Juliette sleeves with very full upper sleeves that are edged by ruffled lace, rose silk bow at the waist. Along with wire-brimmed green velvet bonnet with graduated width brim, rose crepe de chine gathers covering the inner brim, and a wide emerald green satin band with generous bow. For 21” doll. 5” shoulder width. 13” waist. 16” overall length. 8” bonnet length. 3” inside head brim. Circa 1890. $600/800

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202. White Cotton Bébé Gown Originally designed for presentation on Bébé Teteur, the high-waist gown with button and drawstring closure features horizontal tucks which extend down the entire front and are edged by broderie Anglaise which is repeated around the hem and the cuffs. For 16” doll. 4” shoulder width. Circa 1885. $200/400

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200. Knit Toddler Ensemble Comprising cream knit sweater with blue border, tunic with suspender straps, pants with detailed leg edging, pair of socks, woven bib with button back, and muslin chemise. For 14” doll. 4” shoulder width. Circa 1890. $200/300

201. Baby Bonnets Including Hand-Stitched Silk Cap Of various sizes and styles including a hand-stitched ivory silk satin cap with outer cap, five-tiered ruffled lace cap, and others. Circa 1885. $300/400

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203.

204. Woven Bourrelet Cap with Blue Velour Trim

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The rounded firm-sided cap with open-weave top is shaped to fit to the crown of a young toddler’s head, offering protection to the soft crown as the child learns to walk; decorated with teal blue cording at the edges and teal blue velour weave. 5” width. 4” inside head width. Circa 1880. $300/400

203. Tiny Woven Bourrelet Cap with Brown Silk Ribbons The firm-sided woven round cap, designed to sit upon a baby’s soft crown as protection, is decorated with brown silk edging and bows. 2 ½” width. 1 ½” inside head width. Circa 1880. $200/400

205. Batiste Dress and Undergarments from Au Nain Bleu Of sheer batiste with double tier of lace ruffles on the fitted bodice, with lace sleevelets and set-in waist band, gathered skirt with three bands of lace. Along with an aqua silk underdress (original cloth label of the Paris store “Au Nain Bleu”), and with original muslin chemise and slip. For 14” doll. 3 ½” shoulder width. 8” overall length. Circa 205. 1910. $300/500

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207. Twenty-One Pairs of Various French Doll Socks Of various sizes, mostly classic Jumeau models, in colors including cream, black, burgundy, brown, and rose. Circa 1880s. $300/500

208. Three Leather Doll Belts and Miniature Crop for Riding Ensemble The belts for dolls with 4”-6” waist, of tan, brown or cordovan leather, and with original ormolu or silver buckle and decorations. Along with a 4” wooden handled crop with leather flappers. Circa 1885. $300/500

209. Miniature Firm Leather Valise from Louis Vuitton of Paris 206.

206. Four Pair of French Shoes for Bébés Jumeau Each of black kidskin with brown overcast stitching and having ankle straps with silver button closure, including 2 ¾” pair with brown silk rosettes impressed “E.J. (in circle) Depose”; 2 ½” pair with brown silk bows impressed “6 Paris Bébé Depose” and with bee symbol; 2” pair with brown silk bows incised “4 Paris Depose” and with bee symbol; and with 1 ¾” pair (worn leather) with brown silk bows incised “2 Bébé Jumeau Depose”. Circa 1880s. $600/900

4” x 3”. Of very firm sides with brown leather cover, darker brown accent detail, overcast stitching, brass buckle, and leather bail handle, the case opens to lined interior, and is impressed “771208 Made in France Louis Vuitton”. Early 1900s. $400/700

209 label

207.

208.

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211. Petite Woven Bonnet with Dramatic Shape and Decoration Of woven straw with rounded crown and having a wide brim which is dramatically upturned and fixed, at one end, with silk burgundy ribbon and medallions, 211. and, at the other end, a lavish red pom-pom with magenta silk bows. The bonnet is fully lined. 4” width. 1 ½” inside head width. Circa 1885. $300/500

210. Woven Straw Bonnet with Lace Overlay

210.

Of elaborately woven straw with flat crown and graduated width brim, the bonnet is decorated with pleated tulle on the inside brim, and with a flounce of draped embroidered tulle on the crown along with ivory silk bows. 6”h. 2” inside head width. Circa 1890. $300/400

212. Fancily Woven Bonnet and Coral Silk Parasol The intricately-woven lined bonnet is decorated with rose silk taffeta ribbon and white silk flowers; along with a wooden handled parasol with coral silk cover enhanced by cream lace insert, and with silver tip and faux-bone curved hand grip. 4” bonnet outside width. 2 ½” inside head width. 11”l. parasol. Circa 1890. $300/600

212.

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213. Rose Silk and Crepe de Chine Dress with Matching Bonnet Of rose silk with crepe de chine overlay, the drop-waist dress features a fitted bodice that is overlaid with extended crepe de chine pleated ruffles with rose silk edging on both front and back, and with ruched center front panel, bishop sleeves with wide bands at the elbows, rose silk sash with bow at the back hips, hook-andeye closure. Along with matching wire-framed bonnet with patterned rose silk cap and crepe de chine large ruffled brim. For 14” doll. 3 ½” shoulder width. 8” hips. 8” overall length. 7”h. of bonnet. 3” inside head width. Circa 1885. $600/800

214. Grand Rose Silk Satin Parasol with Embroidered Tulle Trim The wooden-handled parasol has curved gilt handle with incised carving, and is covered with rose silk satin with a wide band of lavishly embroidered tulle. 22”l. Circa 1890. $500/700 214.

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215. Polished Cotton Pin-Striped Dress with Embroidered Lace Bodice Of luxurious polished cotton fabric, the dress features a fitted bodice overlaid with embroidered woven lace, with self-corded neckline, very fully skirt with cartridge

pleating which extends all around, very full puffed sleeves, coral silk streamer bows at the dress front, center, back and sleeves, and with pearl buttons and handmade button holes. For 25”-27” dolls. 7” shoulder width. 17” overall length. Circa 1890. $400/500

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217. Three Pairs of French Kidskin Shoes

216. Pale Rose Satin Dress with Wide Bertha Collar Of very pale rose satin with shadowpane weave, the dress features a high waist with pleated yoke interspersed with lace, extended ruffled embroidered lace Bertha collar with interwoven rose silk, very full sleeves, box-pleated skirt with lace and silk banding trim, hook-and-eye closure. For 21”-22” doll. 4 ½” shoulder width. 15” overall length. Circa 1890. $300/500

218.

Including 2 ½” rose kidskin with silk buttons on the ankle straps and rose silk rosettes; 2 ½” cream kidskin with rose overlay edging and ankle straps, impressed “7”; and 2 ¼” kidskin shoes with silk rosettes and ankle straps, impressed C.M. and “7”. Circa 1885. $500/700

218. Patterned Silk Coral Dress with Pleated Lace Collar Of coral silk with interwoven patterns, the dress has flat-front bodice under a wide embroidered tulle pleated collar, pouf sleeves, pleated skirt with wide box pleat at the front, silk salmon bow at the waist. For 16”-18” doll. 3 ½” shoulder width. 10” waist. 11” overall length. Circa 1885. $300/400

218.1. Coral-Rose Silk Dress with Rose Lace Trim and Matching Bonnet

217.

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Of coral-rose silk, the high-waisted dress has fitted yoke above a ruched midriff, and is enhanced with wide coral bretelles of embroidered tulle and guipure lace which extend around the entire back, very full sleeves with matching trim, full skirt with cartridge pleating. Along with wire-framed bonnet of (frail) crepe de chine. For 22”-23” doll. 5” shoulders. 13” high-waisted chest. 15”l. 8”h. bonnet. 3” inside head width. Circa 1890. $400/500


218.1.

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220. Rose and Ivory Silk Bonnet with Bavolet An elaborately-constructed bonnet of ivory and rose silk has alternate bands of drape and ruching, with wire-framed flounced silk and ruffled Belgian lace framing the face, buckram lining for shape, ivory silk bavolet with rose silk lining, rose silk bows, streamers. 10” overall length (including bavolet). 5” inside head width. Circa 1880. $200/400

219. Patterned Rose Cotton Gown with Unusual Flared Sleeves Of very delicate rose/white patterned cotton, the gown features a gathered bodice with drawstrings at the neckline and waist, unusual three-part sleeves with lace edging, cartridge-pleated floor-length skirt (designed to be easily shortened). For 20”-22” doll. 5” shoulder width. 10”-14” drawstring waist. Circa 1860. $300/500

220.

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221.

222.

221. Cream Cotton Dress with Waist Smocking Of shadow-striped cream cotton with tiny printed bluets and rose buds, the dress features a very full bodice and hips with detailed smocking at the front and back waist, blouson hips, rounded neckline with lace ruffle and collar, lace-edged short sleeves and hem. For 17”-18” dolls. 5” shoulder width. 12” overall length. Circa 1882. $200/400

222. Petal-Printed Cream Pique Dress with Drop-Waist Of textured cream cotton printed with dainty rose flowers and leaves, the drop-waist dress features a lace-edged collar, short sleevlets with lace edging, and a matching draped sash above lower skirt pleats which are also edged with lace. For 17”-18” doll. 4” shoulder width. 15” hips. 12” overall length. Circa 1880. $200/400

223. Cotton Lace Bonnet with Rose Silk Trim Of woven Belgian lace with cap back lined with padded pink muslin, the wide-brimmed bonnet with bavolet has rose silk bows on inside and outside of brim, and rose silk streamers. 4 ½”h. 2” inside head brim. Circa 1880. $200/300

223.

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224. Tiny Ivory Satin Dress with Coral Streamers

226. Tiny Lace Dress with Rose Satin Lining

Of ivory silk satin, the fully-lined dress features a fitted yoke with allaround self-piping, above full-length box pleats at front and back, with short lace-edged pouf sleeves, pearl button closure and ecru silk rosette and streamers. For 9”-10” doll. 2 ¼” shoulder width. 6” overall length. Circa 1885. $300/400

The dainty cotton lawn dress with fitted yoke edged with lace Bertha ruffle has a high waist, gathered skirt and long sleeves, and is composed with alternating bands of tuck lace, and with rose silk underdress to accentuate the details. For 7” doll. 2” shoulder width, 6” overall length. Circa 1900. $100/200

225. Dainty Miniature Drop-Waist Dress with Bertha Collar

227. Petite Rose Petal Dress with Rose Silk Ribbons

Of loosely woven cream fabric the dress features a fitted yoke above the full blouson-shaped bodice, puffed sleeves, pleated lower skirt, and a very extended Bertha collar with ivory satin center edged by a wide band of ecru lace that is repeated at the sleeves and hem. For 9”-10” doll. 2 ½” shoulder width. 6” overall length. Circa 1900. $200/400

Of a beautifully woven fabric with rose petal designs and silk vertical banding, the dress features a fitted yoke with wide bretelle collar above a full gathered skirt, and with short sleeves (fabric worn on sleeves). The dress is accented with bands of rose silk ribbon. For 12” doll. 3” shoulder width. 7” overall length. Circa 1900. $150/250

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228.

228. Kidskin Shoes for Bébé Jumeau, Size 6 The kidskin shoes (re-tinted in rose color with green overcast stitching) have ankle straps with button closure, green bows, and leather soles with gilt lettering “Bébé Jumeau Med. Or Paris 1878 Depose” and incised “6”. 2 ¾”l. Circa 1885. $200/300

229. Cream/Rose Silk Dress with Wide Bretelles Of delicate cream silk with narrowest checkered design and interwoven dots, the dress features a flat bodice flanked by very wide lace-edged bretelles with feather-stitch detail, square-cut neckline with lace trim at the center, full sleeves with drawstrings, setin waist, gathered skirt. For 22”-24” doll. 6” shoulder width. 16” waist. 17” overall length. Circa 1890. $300/500

229.

230. Five Pairs of Tiny Shoes Including 1 ⅓” black kidskin shoes with light brown overcast stitching, impressed “O”, 1 ¼” black kidskin shoes with leather buckle and ankle straps, impressed 2/0; 1” tan kidskin shoes with silver buckles and ankle straps with two silver buttons; 1” cream kidskin shoes with silver buckles; and ¾” black leatherette shoes with silver buckles, impressed 6/0. Circa 1890. $300/500

230.

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231. Muslin Chemise for Bébé Samaritaine Of tightly-woven muslin, the chemise/dress features a fitted rose yoke with thread embroidery edged by lace at the neckline and bodice, sewn-down tucks interspersed with interwoven rose ribbons, lace edging, Juliette sleeves, with original matching sash. For 21”-22” doll. 5” shoulder width. 13” overall length. Circa 1890. $200/400

232. Dresses and Hats for Tiny Dolls Including two white cotton dresses with elaborate detail of tucks and embroidery, along with four various bonnets with rose or pale blue trim. For 7”-8” dolls. Circa 1890. $200/400

233. Four Pairs of Petite Kidskin Shoes Including 1 ¾” pair of coral kidskin shoes with white kidskin floret decorations decorated by silver medallions, and white pearl button closure on the ankle straps, impressed “000”; 2” 233. pair of pink leather ankle boots with tie straps and leather soles stamped “6”; 1 ¾” cream kidskin shoes with silver buckles; and 1 ½” pair of ankle boots with silver buttons. Circa 1885. $400/600 231.

232.

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234.

234. Rose Silk Faille Charlotte Cap and French Rose Silk Shoes, Size 5 Of coral-rose silk faille, the soft Charlotte cap has a boxpleated all-around ruffle and is accented by a generous corsage of dainty flowers and rose silk ribbons and bows. Along with a pair of rose satin shoes with rose overcast stitching, silk covered button closure and silk rosettes, leather soles, impressed 5. 5” outside width of cap 2” inside head width. 2 ¼”l. shoes. Circa 1890. $300/500

236.

235. White Fur Muff with Rose Silk Bows and Fur Collar Of lush white fur with ermine tips, the fully-lined padded muff has cord handle and rose silk rosette bow; along with matching collar, 4”l. muff. Circa 1890. $200/300

236. Patterned Rose Ensemble with Black Velvet Trim

235.

Of a very fine textured rose sateen, the two-piece ensemble features a fully-lined bodice with long sleeves, and a full skirt. There is black velvet edging at the neckline, center front bodice, waist band and cuffs, and with a ruffle of black velvet at the throat. For 19”-20” doll. 4” shoulder width. 11” waist. 15” overall length. Circa 1890. $300/500

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238. 237.

237. Black Velvet and Silk Faille Dress with Woven Black Straw Bonnet Of alternating bands of black velvet and silk faille, the coat-dress features a fitted yoke above wide loose pleats, with V-shaped collar having braided edging, and with coat sleeves. Along with a black woven bonnet with silk lining and black velvet inside brim, decorated with a border of black beads and black velvet and ivory silk faille bow. For 16” doll. 4” shoulder width. 10” overall length. 6” bonnet length. 1 ½” inside head width. Circa 1884. $500/700

238. Ivory Silk Faille Jacket-Dress with Magenta Silk Center Of ivory silk (very frail) and magenta silk, the dress features a faux-jacket of ivory twill with center panel of ruched silk, the jacket with magenta silk piping which shapes into a rolled collar which is lined with lace, coat sleeves with magenta cuff bands and lace trim, pleated skirt hem with magenta silk edging and three full-length rows of piping that follow the shape of the back. The dress is fully lined and has dust ruffle, and hook-and-eye closure. The dress originally appeared on a 15” Bru bébé, 4” shoulder width. 10” overall length. Circa 1884. $300/500

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239. Lace Coiffe with Mauve Silk Ribbons The dainty lace coiffe with tulle cap lace has a double crown border of ruffled lace which is bordered with mauve silk ribbons, and has adjustable ties at the back of the head, along with silk streamers. 5” inside width. Circa 1880. $100/200

239.


240. Velvet Jacket-Dress with Magenta Silk Accents, and Black Velvet Bonnet Of midnight green velvet, the drop-waist jacket-dress centers a draped and ruched magenta silk center panel, and has shaped lappets with magenta piping and silver button accents, magenta silk collar with lace edging which matches the lace cuffs. The skirt is formed of two pleated tiers, the upper of darkest green velvet and the lower of black velvet, underlain by pleated muslin dust ruffle. Along with a black velvet wire-framed bonnet with wide brim and flat crown, and is decorated with a cluster of silk flowers and bow. For 26”-28” doll. 6” shoulder width. 17” hips. 17” overall length. 8 ½”l. bonnet. 3” inside head width. Circa 1880. $900/1200

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241. Three Pairs of French Bébé Shoes Each is of black kidskin with brown overcast stitching, brown silk bows, and button closure on ankle straps, including 2” pair impressed “Rabery Paris 5”; 2 ¾” signed “Eden Bébé Paris 2”, and another 2 ¾” signed “Eden Bébé Paris 2”. Circa 1890. $500/700

242. Three Pairs of French Bébé Shoes Each of soft black kidskin, including 2 ¼” pair with ankle straps, silver buttons, brown silk rosettes, and silver medallion trim; 2” pair with ankle straps and light brown silk rosettes, impressed with (illegible) monogram; and 1 ¾” with overcast stitching, ankle straps, black bead buttons, and brown silk rosettes, impressed “3”. Circa 1890. $500/800

243. Black Leather Shoes for Early Bébé Jumeau, Size 8 241.

Of soft kidskin, ankle straps with black bead button, hand-stitched detail, brown silk rosettes, leather soles impressed “E. Jumeau Med. d’Or 1878 Paris” and “8”. 2 ½”l. Circa 1880. $300/400

244. Blue Silk Bonnet and Bébé Jumeau Shoes, Size 8 The buckram-lined cap bonnet with firm sides has blue silk cover with elaborately ruched detail at the crown and two side bows, long streamers and lace overlay on the back of the cap. Along with black kidskin shoes with brown overcast stitching and brown silk bows, and leather soles incised “8 Bébé Jumeau Depose”. 3 ½” inside width of bonnet. 2 ¾”l. shoes. Circa 1890. $300/500

242.

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244.

245. Pale Blue Sateen Dress with Ornate Trim, Lace Bonnet and Blue Silk Parasol with Dog Head Handle The fully lined dress of pale blue cotton sateen has very full gathered bodice which is overlaid by an ivory silk Bertha collar with embroidered lace overlay and Alencon lace ruffle, with full sleeves having matching trim, box-pleated skirt with applique lace, and ivory silk sash. Along with an embroidered lace cap with gathered lace ruffle framing the face and forming a bavolet, and with ivory silk twill bows. And with wooden handled-parasol with blue sateen cover (some frailty of silk) and dog head handle. For 22”-23” doll. 5” shoulders. 14” overall. 5” inside head width. 13”l. parasol. Circa 1890. $800/1200


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246. Petite Dimity Dress with “Petit Pois” Accents

246 back

Of very delicate batiste with interwoven “petit pois” dots, the drop-waist dress with button front, has coat sleeves and double tiers of ruffles and lace, and with aqua under-dress. The dress is trimmed with Alencon lace, and aqua hip sash and bows, and aqua silk lining. For 13” doll. 3” shoulder width. 8” overall length. Circa 1880. $300/500

247. Batiste Dress and Undergarments from Au Nain Bleu Of sheer batiste with double tier of lace ruffles on the 247 label fitted bodice, with lace sleevelets and set-in waist band, gathered skirt with three bands of lace. Along with an aqua silk underdress (original cloth label of the Paris store “Au Nain Bleu”), and with original muslin chemise and slip. For 14” doll. 3 ½” shoulder width. 8” overall length. Circa 1910. $300/500

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248.

250.

248. Ivory Silk Bonnet and Aqua Kidskin Shoes for Bébé Jumeau, Size 6 The wire-framed bonnet of ruched ivory has an aqua crepe de chine ruffled edge (very frail). Along with a pair of aqua kidskin shoes with silver buttons on the ankle straps, leather soles incised “6 E. Jumeau Med. Or 1878 Paris”. 2 ½” inside head width. 2”l. shoes. $300/400

249. Jade Green Leather Ankle Boots with Gilt Star Rosette Of soft kidskin in pale jade green color, the scalloped top ankle boots with little heels, have gilt buttons, and are accented with gilt and jade green stars. With impressed mark of ankle boots and “trademark” 2”l. Circa 1885. $200/300

250. Aqua Silk Faille Dress with Ivory Silk Center Panel Of aqua silk faille dress features a V-shaped bodice with ivory satin gathered inset panel flanked by unusual lace detailing which is repeated on the sleeves, and with a border of lace on the hem of the flared skirt. For 22”-23” doll. 5” shoulder width. 14” overall length. Circa 1890. $300/500 249.

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252.

253. Aqua Satin Shoes For Bébé Jumeau with Gilt Lettering, Size 7 Of bronze green silk satin with overcast gold stitching and green silk rosettes, the shoes have leather soles with gilt lettering “Bébé Jumeau Med d’Or 1878 Paris Depose” and impressed “7”. 2 ½” Circa 1885. $300/400

254. Apple Green Satin Edwardian Dress with Lace Cap and Fancy Parasol Of apple green satin dress, the loosely fitted dress of the Edwardian style features elegant

251. Cream Knit and Plush Ensemble with Aqua Silk Trim Of loosely knit cream wool, the high-waisted dress features a paneled skirt with aqua silk interwoven ribbon and shoulder bow. Along with a plush wool coat with long sleeves, curly lambswool collar, and brass button and loop closure; and with matching lambswool fullylined muff with aqua bow, and with lambswool padded muff with cord ties. For 15” doll. 3” shoulder width. 11” overall length. Circa 1890. $500/700

252. Ivory Satin Turban Cap Of fine ivory silk satin, the turban style cap has richly-draped folds and is edged by very narrow accordion-pleats and decorated with an ivory crepe de chine rosette, with full muslin lining. 5”h. 2 ½” inside head width. Circa 1890. $200/300

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253.


draping at the sides, self piping down the front with ten self-covered decorative buttons which are repeated on the points of the lace collar (both front and back), and at the lace sleeve edging. The dress has a sash at the back flanked by silk tassels. Along with an elaborate lace cap with ruffled borders which is decorated by apple green satin streamers and bows; and a wooden handled parasol with faux bone handles, pale green silk pom-poms and green silk cover (some frailty to silk of parasol). For 20”-22” doll. 4” shoulders. 12”l. 4” inside head width. Circa 1910. $700/900

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254.1. Aqua Silk and Crepe de Chine Dress and Matching Bonnet Of aqua silk with elaborately constructed detail including overlay yoke, and Belgian lace Bertha collar, wide draped sash (the dress silk is extremely frail and requiring restoration). Along with a wire-framed aqua silk bonnet cap decorated with ivory woven threading at the back, and elaborately draped aqua crepe de chine encircling the face, with matching streamers and aqua boa feather (bonnet is excellent condition). For 30”-32” doll. 7” shoulder width. Circa 1890. $600/900

254.1 bonnet

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255. Rose Silk And Crepe de Chine Dress and Bonnet for Larger Bébé A coral-rose silk dress with very elaborate detail of bands of lace, grand Bertha collar, sash and elaborate detail. (The dress is all-original albeit the silk overlay is extremely frail and needing restoration). Along with matching original wire brimmed bonnet with rose-tinted weaving, crepe de chine ruffles, and white fabric flowers (bonnet is excellent condition). For 31” doll. 7” shoulders. Circa 1890. $600/900

255 bonnet

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257. Six Various Dresses for Miniature Dolls Including four white cotton dresses with elaborate bodice trim including bretelles and Bertha collar, lace and tucks, rose cotton drop-waist dress, and rose satin dress with lace trim. For 6”-7” size doll. 1 ¾” shoulder width. Circa 1900. $300/500

256.

256. Patterned Rose Sateen High-Waisted Dress with Juliette Sleeves Of a richly-textured rose satin, the dress features a high-waist with very full pleated bodice under fitted yoke and rolled neckline, long Juliette sleeves with gathered overlay sleeves at the shoulders, box-pleated undersleeves and fitted cuffs, very full gathered skirt with dust ruffle at the hem, hook-and-eye closure. For 20” doll. 4” shoulders. 16” overall length. Circa 1890. $300/400

258.

258. Rose Cotton Dress with Dainty Sleeves and Pockets Of delicate rose cotton, the dress features a square-cut neckline, very full bodice and short sleeves, set-in waist band, gathered skirt, two shaped pockets. The dress is enhanced with lace edging, feathered-stitching, and coral silk bows, with button and loop closure and wide coral ties and streamers at the back. For 18” doll. 4” shoulder width. 12” waist. 12” overall length. Circa 1890. $200/400

259. Grey Velvet Bonnet and Cream Kidskin Shoes

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The wire-framed grey bonnet with wide-brim has inside brim lining or draped rose crepe de chine, and linen lining. With rose patterned bows

259.


and long streamers. Along with a pair of cream kidskin shoes with rose sateen lining. 6”h. bonnet. 3” inside head width. 2 ½”l. shoes. Circa 1890. $300/500

260. Grey/Brown Striped Woolen Dress with Burgundy Velvet Accents, and Fancy Bonnet Of grey and brown narrow striped wool, the dress features a set-in burgundy velvet yoke above a gathered bodice with set-in waist, gathered skirt, with Juliette sleeves that are very full at the shoulders, burgundy velvet lower sleeves and sash. The yoke is enhanced with intricatelyembroidered lace. Along with a richly-woven straw bonnet with elaborately-draped dotted tulle flounce that is accented with lilies of the valley and satin ribbons, with burgundy velvet underbrim. For 21”-22” doll. 5” shoulders. 15” waist. 14” overall. 7” overall length. 3” inside head width. Circa 1885. $800/1100

260.

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262. Five Pairs of German Doll Shoes In a variety of styles and colors, including four pairs of saddle shoes of which one is an unusual green/ cream color combination, and a pair of black ankle shoes with lacing and white pom-poms. 2 ¼”-3 ¼”. Circa 1910. $200/300 263.

263. Black Woolen Tailored Jacket with Rich Embroidery Of very fine black wool, the dartshaped jacket has a thick red flannel lining with pink-edged hem, and flared center back, coat sleeves, rounded collar. The jacket is embroidered with blue, red, and green garlands of flowers around the edges, pocket flaps, center back, and cuffs. For 14” doll. 3” shoulder width. Circa 1885. $200/300

261. Traditional Costume with Velvet Vest and Lace-Edged Cap The traditional costume includes a black sateen skirt over attached flannel underskirt and with red apron, white petticoat, black velvet vest with four pairs of metal lacing buttons, white sleeves and grey silk back bow. And with brunette hand-tied braids and original velvet cap with a wide ruffled brim of Alencon lace. For 16” doll. 3” shoulder width. 7” waist. Circa 1900. $300/500

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264.


264. Linen Military Costume for Miniature Doll Of dark taupe linen, the twopiece ensemble features a tunic with rows of decorative buttons, metal epaulets on the collar, braid trim, belt, and with matching pants. With soft metal sword. For 7”-8” doll. 2 ½’ shoulder width. Circa 1890. $200/300

265.

265. Boy’s Blue Velvet Suit with Great Coat and Cap Of rich midnight blue velvet, the ensemble comprises a fully-lined great coat with faux double-breast construction, two rows of eight brass buttons, rolled collar with square-cut back collar which is decorated with brass anchor-centered medallions, and with box-pleats at the back with inverted center pleat. Along with matching knickers with attached top which is velvet at the front and red muslin at the back. With matching sailor cap decorated with brass anchor and crown medallions, and with red and white striped stockings. For 14” doll. 3” shoulder width. 9” overall length coat. Circa 1885. $600/800

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266. Red Cotton Dress with Embroidered Floral Details

267. White Cotton Blouse with Pinafore Dress

Of red cotton, the dress has a smocked bodice, long sleeves, and is decorated with scalloped edge collar, cuffs and hem with embroidered white flowers and cutwork, with attached back dress tie. For 17”-18” doll. 5” shoulder width. 12” overall length. Circa 1890. $200/300

The white cotton blouse features narrow tucks down the bodice, and has a ruffled collar with tiny embroidered details, long sleeves with tucks and ruffled cuffs, pearl buttons and handmade buttonholes. Along with a red cotton pinafore dress. For 16” doll. 4” shoulder width. 11” overall length. Circa 1880. $200/300

268. Cotton Pinafore Dress with White Blouse

269. Patterned Cream Pinafore with Embroidered Collarette

Of red chambray cotton, the pinafore dress features a rounded neckline set-in waist, and box-pleat at the center front with double pockets; the pinafore is decorated with red cotton ruffled collar and sleeve edging with white embroidery, and the ensemble inside is a white cotton blouse with tucks, lace collar and cuffs of long sleeves. For 14” doll. 3 ½” shoulder width. 9” overall length. Circa 1885. $200/400

Of textured cream cotton, the pinafore dress features a square-cut neckline with patterned indigo blue banding above a red cotton ruffled collarette with blue embroidered and scalloped edge, which extends around the entire dress. Over white cotton dress with lace trim. For 18” doll. 5” shoulder width. 11” overall length. Circa 1890. $200/300

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270. White Batiste Drop-Waist Embroidered Dress with Woven Straw Bonnet Of delicate white batiste, the drop-waist dress features a rounded collar, long sleeves with ruffled edges, and a generous ruffle at the hemline, and is lavishly decorated with smocking and colorful red, green, blue and yellow embroidery. Along with woven straw bonnet with wide brim, silk lining, and original paper label “Marie”. For 22”-23” doll. 6” shoulder width. 14” overall. 8” outside brim. 3” inside head width. Circa 1900. $300/500

271. Six Pairs of German Doll Shoes In a variety of styles including cream kidskin, brown leather with overcast stitching, black kidskin with pompom, and two pairs of saddle shoes. 1 ¼”-2 ¼”. Circa 1900. $200/400

271.

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272.

272. Linen Dress with Embroidered Collar Along with Woven Bonnet Of natural linen, the rounded collar dress has a gathered bodice and ¾ sleeves, set-in waist band, gathered skirt, decorated with a ruffed collar and cuffs of white muslin with scalloped red edging and embroidery. Along with a woven bonnet with side brim which is decorated with berries and silk ribbon. For 16” doll. 4” shoulder width. 11” waist. 11” overall. 7” entire width of hat. 2 ½” inside head width. Circa 1890. $300/500

274. Bi-Color Woven Bonnet and Red Kidskin Ankle Boots The bi-color woven straw bonnet with flat top and wide brim is decorated with a textured rose silk band and bows, and lined with rose silk. Along with red kidskin ankle boots with silver buttons and star medallions, and has little heels and impressed symbol of heeled shoes and “trademark” on soles. 5” width of bonnet. 2” inside head width. 2 ¼”l. boots. $300/400

273. Twelve Pairs of Doll Socks Of various styles, sizes, patterns and weaves, including a pair of black knit with interwoven stockings, silk striped stockings of ginger and taupe, knit stockings with letter “B”, brown knit stockings, and more. Circa 1890. $100/200 273.

122

274.


275.

276.

275. Red Cotton Dress with Unusual Embroidery Of red cotton, the dress features a very full bodice with piping at the waist line, gathered skirt, rounded neckline and puffed sleeves with stitched down pleats, button back with handmade button holes, wide ruffled collar with scalloped edging, and bands of embroidery on the collar and hem depicting an embroidery of a young girl with bouquet of flowers. For 24” doll. 6” shoulder width. 19” relaxed waist. 16” overall length. Circa 1890. $300/500

276. Muslin Romper Dress with Patterned Borders, and Woven Straw Bonnet Of patterned muslin cotton with interwoven red stripes, the romper dress features a squarecut neckline with pleated bodice, long sleeves with fitted cuffs, decorated with 1” bands of patterned decorative borders, with attached sash and button-open back. Along with a woven straw bonnet with flat top and wide brim, ivory grosgrain band and bows, and with patterned label on the inside hat “Le Petit Chapeau by Lucien Lelong Paris”. For 22” doll. 6” shoulder width. 15” overall length. 8” hat width. 3” inside head width. Circa 1890. $300/500

275 detail

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278. Pair, Cotton Costumes for Petite Boy and Girl Including a white dotted Swiss dress with fitted bodice and center panel, with gauze apron decorated with black featherstitch; and linen twopiece romper suit with blue polka dots and pleated V-shaped collar. For 10”-11” dolls. 3” shoulder width. Circa 1900. $300/400

279. Striped Pinafore with “Children on Bicycles” Border Design 277. Indigo Blue Cotton Gown with Broderie Anglaise Bonnet Of indigo blue cotton with white polka dots, the floor-length gown features a flat front with rounded neckline and short sleeves, enhanced with Belgian lace collar, and at hem and sleeve edges, with ivory silk sash. Along with a white cotton bonnet with six-ribbed cap and having a wide box-pleated brim beneath an outer brim of narrow box-pleated broderie Anglaise, with satin ribbon bows. For 25” doll. 6” shoulder width. 20” overall. 9” width of bonnet. 4” inside head width. Circa 1880. $300/500

124

279 detail Of crisp cotton in narrow blue and white stripes, the pinafore features a ruffled bodice, coat sleeves, fitted yoke, gathered skirt, and a center panel and skirt border with colorful scenes of children on bicycles or velocipedes. For 17”-18” doll. 4” shoulders. 10” waist. Circa 1890. $300/400


280. Costumes and Dresses for Miniature Dolls Including a textured white dress with Bertha collar and blue cotton under-dress, blue textured silk dress with embroidered lace collar, cuffs and hem, cotton chemise, petticoat, blue and white cotton pinafore, splitdrawer pantalets, panties, and lace cap with blue ribbons. For 6”-7” doll. Circa 1900. $400/500

281. Blue Cotton Chambray Dress with Embroidered Details

282. Blue Cotton Chambray Pinafore Dress and Blouse

Of blue cotton chambray, the dress features all-around box pleats, flared sides, Bertha collar with embroidered scallop edging and white floral embroidery which is repeated on the hem, cuffs, pocket edges, and tips of back sash, white pearl buttons with handmade button holes. For 12” doll. 3” shoulder width. 8” overall length. Circa 1882. $300/500

Of blue cotton chambray, the flared pinafore features a rounded collar and sleevelets with rounded collar and featherstitch embroidery, blue silk bows at the shoulders. Along with white blouse having beautifully detailed collar and sleeves. For 15” doll. 4” shoulder width. Circa 1880. $100/200

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283.

284.

283. Cream Dress with Woven Burgundy Design and Bodice Pleats Of cream color with printed burgundy design of leaves and delicate flowers, featuring a burgundy silk yoke, cuffs and stitched-on sash, with sewn-down box pleated bodice, gathered skirt, hook-and-eye closure at the back, and strong burgundy feather-stitching at the hemline. For 22”-24” doll. 5” shoulder width. 16” waist. 15” overall length. Circa 1885. $300/500

126

284. Boy’s Woolen Great Coat and Grey Knickers The burgundy flannel wool great coat with padded linen lining, has a wide capelet collar with grey cord edging, coat sleeves, button and loop closure, and inverted box pleat at the back. With woolen tailor-made knickers having button fly-front. For 20”-21” doll. 5” shoulder width. 10” waist. Circa 1880. $400/600


285.

285. Red Velvet Bonnet with Silk Ribbons and Milliner Label The red velvet bonnet with graduated width brim, flat crown, red silk ribbons and bows and a burgundy feather has silk lining with original gilt lettering for “A La Provident Modes on Rue du Rivoli.” 5”h. 1 ½” inside head width. Circa 1888. $200/300

286. French Black Leather Shoes, Size 11, and Thick Red Socks Of black kidskin shoes with brown overcast stitching, and very wide ankle straps with tie closure, brown silk rosettes, leather soles impressed “11”. Along with thick red ribbed stockings. 3 ½”l. Circa 1890. $200/300

287. Cream Flannel Wool Drop-Waist Dress with Embroidered Yoke Of cream flannel wool, the drop-waist dress features a fitted yoke with bands of embroidered details which extend to the back and which are edged by featherstitched silk bands; above box-pleated bodice with drop-waist, stitched hip line above narrow pleats with further embroidery at the hemline and at the turn-up cuffs of the coat sleeves. For 24” doll. 5 ½” shoulder width. 15” overall length. Circa 1885. $500/800

286.

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288. Burgundy Serge Dress with Fancy Woven Bonnet Of burgundy serge, the drop-waist dress features pleats below the hips, button-front with eight gold bead buttons and handmade button holes, coat sleeves, silk cuffs, collar, and skirt band, two open pockets with gold bead buttons, and a rich burgundy hip sash. Along with a woven straw bonnet with high crown and upturned brim, the bonnet decorated with a corsage of red silk flowers and a flounce of burgundy velvet which also covers the inside brim. For 18” doll. 3 ½” shoulder width. 12” hips. 11” overall length. 6” bonnet width. 2” inside head width. Circa 1880. $500/700

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down the sides of the sleeves and at the neckline. Along with brown woven bonnet decorated with dainty silk flowers and loosely-woven tulle over aqua silk ribbons. For 16”-17” doll. 4” shoulder width. 11” waist. 11” overall length. 5” overall width of bonnet. 3” inside head width. Circa 1885. $300/500

290. Coral Satin Princess Dress for Miniature Doll Of coral satin, the drop-waist dress has princess style shaped torso, darts below the hips, rounded neckline with short sleeves, lace edging at the neckline, front bodice closure, shoulders, and with attached dust ruffle and aqua textured hip sash. For 6”-7” doll. 1 ½” shoulder width. 4” hips. 4” overall length. Circa 1882. $300/500

291. Burgundy Silk Dress with Lace Bertha Collar and Ornate Woven Bonnet Of rich burgundy silk sateen, the dress features a fitted yoke above a full gathered dress and very full sleeves. The dress is edged with a wide ruffle forming into an all-around Bertha collar which is accented by maroon silk streamers. Along with an elaborately woven bonnet with rounded crown and wide upturned brims, decorated with a generous cluster of berries and leaves, and an ivory satin richly draped bow. For 23” doll. 5” shoulder width. 14” overall length. 8” width of hat. 4” inside head width. Circa 1890. $700/900 289.

289. Cream Cashmere Dress with Fine Detail, and Woven Bonnet Of fine cream cashmere wool, the dress features a fitted yoke with embroidered cutwork overlay above a very full gathered bodice with embroidered center panel, set-in waist with aqua piping, and full gathered skirt with elaborate ruching. The dress has coat sleeves with wide cuffs which have matching overlay to the yoke. There is additional embroidery at the hem,

290.

291.

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292. Three German Blonde Mohair Wigs with Extended Curls Each is of soft blonde mohair with bangs and arranged curls, and each with attached extended curls of great length. Including wig with 5” inside head width, 12” length of curls at the back, suitable for 26”-28” dolls; wig with 4” inside head width, 9” length of curls at the back, suitable for 22”-24” dolls; and strawberry blonde wig with 4” inside head width, 8” length of curls at the back, curly bangs, suitable for 21”-23” dolls. Circa 1900. $700/1000

293. Bright Auburn Mohair Wig for Poulbot Of bright red auburn mohair, originally appearing on a bisque character doll by Poulbot, and is also suitable for other character dolls. 2 ½” diameter. Suitable for 14”-16” doll. Circa 1915. $200/300

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294.

294. Three German Mohair Curly Blonde Wigs Each is of fine curly mohair with elongated ringlet curls. Each about 3” inside head width. Suitable for dolls about 22”-24”. Circa 1900. $500/800

296.

295. Two Blonde Mohair Wigs with Extended Braids

296. Three Small German Mohair Curly Wigs

Each is mohair with center-stitch part and having elongated braids, one with four section braids. 1 ½”-2” inside head width. 7”l. of braids. Circa 1890. $200/400

Each is of soft mohair with delicate curls, including ash blonde with bangs, light brown with curly bangs, and dark brunette with arranged curly bangs. Each 2 ¼”w. about 5”l. for dolls about 14”-16”. Circa 1900. $400/600

295.

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297. White Dotted Swiss Dress with Bertha Collar and Charlotte Bonnet Of white cotton dotted Swiss, the dainty dress features a blouson bodice, fitted yoke edged with Bertha collar in broderie Anglaise, very full sleeves with ruffled edge, fitted relaxed waist, gathered skirt with ruffled hem. Aqua silk bows on the shoulders. With matching dotted Swiss cap having a wide cutwork brim, and aqua silk bow. For 18”-20” doll 4” shoulder width. 12” overall length. Circa 1900. $400/600

298. White Lawn Cotton High-Waisted Dress with Aqua Silk Ribbons, and Undergarments

297.

Of fine white lawn, the highwaisted dress is overlaid with bretelles and lace, ¾ sleeves with lace edging, full skirt with embroidered floral detail, and decorative ribbons in green silk with rosettes. Along with matching chemise and petticoat also trimmed with green ribbons. For 16” doll. 4” shoulders. 10” overall length. Circa 1900. $200/400

299. Velvet/Silk Striped Miniature Dress

298.

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Of luxury fabric of striped blue velvet and ivory silk, the princess style dress has box pleats that extend down the back, flared sleeves, ivory cord braids, coral silk ties. Along with a wire-framed lace bonnet. 5 ½”l. 1” shoulder width Circa 1885. $200/300


301. Aqua Woolen Coat with Original Au Nain Bleu Label Of suede-like pale green wool, the coat features a wide collar edged with a border of 1 ¼” guipure lace, coat sleeves with fitted cuffs, vertical bands of piping down the front and back, with original ivory silk twill lining. With original Au Nain Bleu label from the Parisian store. For 15”16” doll. 3 ½” shoulder width, 10” overall length. Circa 1910. $200/400

300. Green Cashmere Woolen Jacket and Green Silk Parasol Of apple green wool, the jacket features tailored box pleats all-around, coat sleeves with fitted cuffs, triple-layered wide collar which is edged with yellow silk twill, and with self-sash. The jacket is lined with striped silk. Along with apple green silk parasol (light spotting) with double tiered openweave lace edging, wooden handle and mother-of-pearl grip. For 20”- 22” doll. 5” shoulder width. 14” parasol length. Circa 1900. $400/600

301.

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302.

302. Aqua Silk Crepe Dress with Lace Overlay Bodice Of aqua silk crepe, the dress has fitted yoke with guipure lace overlay, above box-pleated bodice that is trimmed with featherstitching, very full pouf sleeves with fitted cuffs, gathered skirt, featherstitching

304. around the hem (some moth wear). For 22”-23” doll. 4 ½” shoulder width. 14” overall length. Circa 1890. $200/400

303. Five Pairs of Doll Shoes and Ankle Boots 2 ¼” brown leather boots (one sole signed C.M.); 1 ¾” cream kidskin ankle boots with pom-poms, impressed 2; 1 ½” tan leather boots with overcast stitching, marked 1 and C.P.; 1 ¾” pair of cream kidskin low ankle boots with aqua edging; and 2” brown leather laced shoes signed 2. Circa 1900. $300/500

304. Aqua Sateen High-Waisted Dress Of aqua sateen, the high-waisted dress has alternating bands of lace and tucks on the yoke, above long pleats including box pleat at the center front and inverted box pleat at the center back, with pouf sleeves over wide pleated oversleeves, and having generous lace trim and green satin sash. For 16” doll. 3 ½” shoulder width. 10” overall length. Circa 1900. $200/400

303.

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307.

305. Ivory Silk Faille Dress with Woven Bonnet Of vertically-ribbed ivory silk faille, the dress features a fitted yoke with featherstitch, gathered bodice, set-in waist, and boxpleated full skirt. The sleeves are of open-weave handmade lace which is repeated in alternate bands on the skirt which is accented with further featherstitch embroidery. Included is a woven hat with down-turned brim, and having ivory satin draped band and floral accents. For 18”-19” doll. 4” shoulder width. 13”l. 6” outside hat diameter. 3” inside head width. Circa 1895. $400/500

306. Woven Poke Bonnet and Leather Heeled Ankle Boots Of intricately-woven straw with modesty panels at the sides and with straw edged silk bavolet at the back neck, the bonnet is lined with silk and has streamers. Along with brown leather shoes with lacing and little heels, silk bows with brass buckles. 3 ½” inside head width. 2 ½” length of shoes. Circa 1875. $300/400

307. Delicate Flannel Dress with Smocked Yoke, Ruffled Silk Bonnet, and Silk Parasol Of very delicate light flannel, of striped aqua and cream, the dress has a very high smocked yoke edged with box pleated silk bands that are repeated at the sleeve edges and hem. Along with a patterned silk twill bonnet cap with elaborate ruffle framing the face, and with an ivory satin parasol with wooden handle and faux bone grip. For 17”-18” doll. 4” shoulder width. 13” overall length. 4” inside width of hat. 13”l. parasol. Circa 1890. $700/900 306.

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308. Natural Linen Dress with Luxurious Broderie Anglaise Trim Of natural linen, the dress features stitched box pleats which extend down the entire front, short wide sleeves of broderie Anglaise, matching collar with scalloped edge, and matching broderie Anglaise sash with lappets at the back waist, broderie Anglaise extends around the entire skirt. For 22”-24” doll. 5” shoulder width. 16” relaxed waist. 16” overall length. Circa 1882. $500/800

309. Four Woven Bonnets with Fancy Decorations Of natural woven straw in various elaborate patterns, the bonnets are decorated in a variety of colors and styles, including ivory silk brocade ribbons, aqua silk fringe and flowers, and rose silk flowers and ribbons, About 2”-3 ½” inside head width. Circa 1890. $300/500

309.1.

308.

309.1. Boy’s Middy Style Costume, Cap, and Shoes Of natural linen-like cotton, the boy’s costume features knee-length trousers with sleeveless bodice top, and matching jacket with brown middy collar edged with white piping. Along with a matching cap, and a pair of cream kidskin shoes with pom-pom trim, and woven socks. For 12”13” doll. 3” shoulder width. Circa 1910. $200/400

310. Four Black Velvet Vests 309.

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Each is black velvet with variations of trim including gold/black braided trim, gold metallic


310. braid edging, and tassel edging. For dolls about 13”-15”. Circa 1890. $100/200

311. Petite Woven Cream Dress with Flounced Collar and Skirt

311.

Of thickly woven threads, the flouncy-styled dress has fitted torso with deep ruffled collar and lower skirt, and with turned-up cuffs of the short sleeves. For 8” doll. 1 ½” shoulder width. 5” overall length. Circa 1910. $200/300

312. Black Silk Dress with Gold Silk Accents Of black silk satin, the dress features a fitted bodice with inset center panel of sewn-down gold silk pleats which narrow at the waist, coat sleeves with shoulder pleats and set-in panels of gold pleats at the cuffs, set-in waist with self-piping and gathered skirt. Gold metal buttons and hand-made button holes at the back. For 18”-20” doll. 4” shoulder width. 12” overall length. Circa 1885. $200/400

312.

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313. Miniature Boy’s Costumes Including Tyrolean Including one-piece Tyrolean costume with white shirt, silk suspenders, black woolen shorts with gold braid, matching sash, and green flannel feathered cap. Along with a romper suit comprising white shirt with brown embroidery and brown flannel pants; and with a red flannel vest and matching blue jacket. For 8” dolls. 1 ¾” shoulder width. Circa 1900. $300/500

314. Fourteen Pairs of Doll Shoes A variety of shoes in kidskin and leatherette in cream, brown, black and red, in styles ranging from heeled ankle boots to saddle shoes to French tan leather shoes impressed “A La Bon Marche”. 1 ¼”-2”. Circa 1890. $300/500 313.

315. Eight Cotton Blouses

314.

138

In various styles and sizes including early examples for poupées or gentlemen dolls, and models with elaborate detail of lace, tucks and embroidery. Circa 1890. $200/400


318.

316. Two Petite Mariner Style Costumes Each has middy-style jacket including white ribbed pique costume with blue cross-stitch trim and matching trousers with bib top; along with sailor dress and jacket with blue collar and bodice trimmed with white braid (some fading on blue). For 11”-12” dolls. 3” shoulder width. 7” overall length. Circa 1900. $300/400

11”-12” doll. 3” shoulder width. 4 ½” overall length. 2 ¼” inside head width. Circa 1910. $200/300

319. Navy Blue Woolen Mariner Cap Labeled Paris Of navy blue serge, the flat-topped wire-framed cap has brim with navy blue grosgrain banding that is labeled “Paris”, and has pale blue muslin lining. 7 ½” diam. 4 ½” inside head width. Circa 1890. $200/300

317. Large Collection of Doll Socks

317.

In various sizes and colors including brown, black, rose, burgundy, cream and blue, of various styles of weaves. Circa 1900. $200/300

318. Navy Blue and Red Serge Mariner Costume and Woven Cap Of navy blue serge, the sleeveless sailor dress top has all-around pleated skirt and center panel, and has pull-over red serge middy top with dartshaped sleeves, blue middy collar. Along with a woven straw flat-top bonnet with navy blue band and streamers, and blue lined underbrim. For

319.

139


321. Three Pairs of Signed French Shoes Including 2 ½” pair of brown leather shoes with ankle straps (one sole missing, one sole with gilt lettering of “Bébé Jumeau”), size 7; 2” black kidskin shoes impressed “E. Jumeau Paris 5” (missing decorative buckles); and 2” black leather shoes with silk laces impressed “5” and with full figure of a doll. Circa 1885. $300/500

322. White Batiste Dress with Bertha Collar and Woven Cap 320. Pale Rose Cotton Drop-Waist Dress Of pale rose cotton chambray, the drop-waist dress has a square-cut neckline, coat sleeves with pleated and lace-trimmed cuffs, sewn-down pleats at the center panel which extend down the entire front of the dress and are framed by wide bands of embroidered lace; with two overlapping rows of narrow pleats at the lower skirt. The sewn-down pleats are repeated at the back centered by pearl buttons and handmade buttonholes, and the dress is further trimmed with ivory grosgrain bows. For 24”-26” doll. 6” shoulder width. 16” overall length. Circa 1880. $300/400

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Of white batiste, the drop-waist dress has a large Bertha collar of tucks and lace, and overlaid with scalloped edge lace upper collar, and elaborate front panel of alternating vertical bands of tucks and lace, with ruffled lower skirt and having pink woven ribbons at the hips and sleeves. Along with a woven cap (some frailty) with pink ribbon streamers. For 18”-19” doll. 5” shoulder width. 12” overall length. Circa 1900. $200/400


323. Ivory Silk Faille Bonnet with Embroidered Lace Ruffle Of ivory silk faille, the padded silk lined cap has a wide frou-frou ruffled brim edged with a wide gathered ruffle of embroidered lace, and with lace over pleated silk bavolet and silk ribbons and streamers. 9” overall length. 5” inside head diameter. Circa 1880. $200/400

324. Four Pairs of Leather Shoes Including brown kidskin shoes with silver buckles; 1 ¾” black kidskin shoes with double ankle straps (buttons missing) and silver buckles; 2” black kidskin shoes with brown silk bows and ankle straps; and 2 ½” tan leather shoes with silk bows and twill edging. Circa 1900. $200/400

325. Sienna Cotton Dress with Broderie Anglaise Yoke Of sienna cotton chambray, the dress features a fitted yoke overlaid all-around with broderie Anglaise, and very full gathered bodice and sleeves, lace trim at the sleeves, set-in waist band, gathered skirt, and with burgundy silk sash, and pearl buttons at the back. For 22”-24”

325. doll. 5” shoulder width. 14” overall length. Circa 1885. $300/400

326. Patterned Brown/ Cream Silk Bonnet Of brown silk faille with white and light brown borders, and having elaborate draping at the back of head and crown, and a decorative cluster of ribbons in same fabric, in burgundy silk and in striped silk ribbon which is repeated at streamers. 7” overall length. 5” inside head diameter. Circa 1885. $200/400

324.

326.

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327.

328. Lady’s Patterned Rose/ Cream Cotton Day Dress The three-piece ensemble, of textured white cotton with rose pattern, comprising a high waist jacket with high ruffled collar, fitted yoke and gathered lower jacket, modified pagoda sleeves, pearl buttons and handmade button holes. Along with a full-length flat-front skirt with double ruffles at the hem, below an overlay skirt with elaborately constructed bustle at the back. The ensemble is accented with rose cotton edging along each ruffled edge and at the neckline and sleeve edges. To fit 14” doll. 3” shoulders. 6 ½” waist. 11” overall length. Circa 1865. $300/500

329.

327. Textured White Cotton Lady’s Gown Of textured white cotton printed with tiny mauve and burgundy flowers, the gown features a rounded neckline, very full bodice, white set-in waist, very full skirt, long sleeves with overlaid upper sleeves. To fit 24” doll. 6” shoulders. 14” waist. 19” overall length. In the 1860 style, of later production. $200/300

328.

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329. Four Pairs of Kid Shoes Including 2” aqua kidskin ankle boots with white pearl buttons, 2 ¼” rose kidskin shoes with silk buckles; 2” black ankle boots; and 2 ¼” brown ankle boots with shoebutton closures. $200/300

330. Seven Pairs of Miniature Doll Shoes Of kidskin in various shades of cream and brown and with various silver buckle trim, 1 ¼”-1 ½”l. Circa 1900. $300/400

331. Print Cotton Gown with Ruching at Bodice Waist Of fine white cotton with tiny purple/ mauve bines, the gown features a rounded neckline with lace trim, pagoda sleeves with double tiers of lace ruffles, very full bodice with ruching

328.

at the waist accented by self-piping, very full skirt with cartridge pleating, hook-and-eye closure. To fit 24” doll. 5 ½” shoulder width. 12” waist. 19” overall length. Circa 1850. $300/500

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332. Nine Various Doll Wigs Of soft mohair in various shades ranging from brunette to blonde, designed for dolls from 6”-12”. Circa 1900. $200/400

333. Five Various Mohair Doll Wigs Of softest mohair with original curls, in shades of color ranging from brunette to light blonde, for use on dolls 16”-24”. Circa 1900. $300/500

334. Large Collection of Antique White-Wear Undergarments Of fine cotton, in various sizes and with variations of decoration and construction, including 10 petticoats, 10 full slips, and 10 pants. Circa 1900. $200/400

335. Large Collection of Antique White-Wear Undergarments Of fine cotton, in various sizes and with variations of decoration and construction, including 10 petticoats, 12 full slips, and “Dolly’s Corset Like Mamma’s”. Circa 1900. $200/300

336. Five Blonde Mohair Wigs For medium-sized dolls, 18”-22”, the wigs are of pale or ash blonde, and feature original soft curls. Circa 1900. $400/600

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What Finespun Threads  

March 12, 2017 at the Hyatt Regency Coconut Resort, Naples, Florida to order the catalog https://www.theriaults.com/catalogs

What Finespun Threads  

March 12, 2017 at the Hyatt Regency Coconut Resort, Naples, Florida to order the catalog https://www.theriaults.com/catalogs