The Pro Chef Middle East - December Issue, 2013

MIDDLE EAST ISSUE 22 DECEMBER 2013

It’s the heat!

Chefs choose their pans

It’s the meat!

Aussies choose their protein

It’s the sweet!

Diners choose their pastries IN SUPPORT OF

Contents

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22

33

44

UP FRONT

FEATURES

CHEFS

LEISURE

02

EDITORIAL Evidence suggests that almonds may be a new secret ingredient that aids dieting. Who knew?.

12

ROUND TABLE Pastry chefs in the front line in the fight against obesity, food intolerances and diabetes.

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44

TRAVEL Caroline Maher waxes lyrical about the food culture of her home town, Melbourne.

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OUT AND ABOUT We report on the inaugural Dubai World Hospitality Championship, the triple threat of Sweets & Snacks Middle East, The Specialty Food Festival and SEAFEX and then SIAL Middle East. Plus we join the US Dairy Export Council’s cheese seminar for chefs and the International Coffee & Tea Festival. Phew - a busy month!

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MARKET FOCUS In use continually throughout service, just how good are the pans available on the market.

Chefs tell us what they like.

48

THE LAST WORD Table ware that changes your taste perception? How is that even possible?

www.cpimediagroup.com

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PRODUCT FOCUS A trip round a selection of Australian livestock providers.

ADVERTORIAL Chef Prud’homme from Al Bustan Rotana discusses his use of Elle & Vire products for large scale catering.

COUP DE THEATRE Just imagine! You’re stuck in rush hour traffic in the centre of Paris and then Chef Thierry Marx delivers a gourmet meal to your car, courtesy of Badoit!

30

PIMP MY PLATE Hailing from Oman’s Zighy Bay, Chef James Knight-Pacheco gives the Portuguese classic Bacalhau a modern reinvention.

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RECIPE CORNER Looking for inspiration?

36

FACE TO FACE Chef Didier Corlou talks Vietnamese flavours and Laura Allais-Mare explains Slow Food.

December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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UP FRONT / editor’s letter

Going nuts!

We’re all used to hearing about nuts in a negative way in the culinary world - despite the fact that peanuts are legumes, not nuts at all! - that it’s refreshing to hear good news about them.

A study published, in the European Journal of Clinical Nutrition, found that consuming 43g of dry-roasted, lightly salted almonds every day can reduce hunger and improve dietary vitamin E and monounsaturated (that is, ‘good’) fat intake without increasing body weight.

With continued increases in obesity rates and widespread nutrient shortfalls, it becomes increasingly important to identify foods that pose little risk for weight gain while providing health benefits.

So a four week clinical study, led by researchers at Purdue University, investigated the effects of almond consumption on weight and appetite for adult participants at increased risk for type 2 diabetes. They were divided into five groups: a control group that avoided all nuts and seeds, a breakfast meal group and lunch meal group that ate 43g of almonds each with their daily breakfast or lunch and a morning snack group and afternoon snack group that each consumed 43g of almonds between their customary meals. All almond snacks were eaten within approximately two hours after their last meal.

Participants were not given any other dietary instruction other than to follow their usual eating patterns and physical activity.

Despite consuming approximately 250 additional calories per day from almonds, participants did not increase the total number of calories they ate and drank over the course of the day or gain weight over the course of the four week study.

The new study suggests snacking can be a weight-wise strategy, depending upon the foods consumed.

The combined positive effects of daily almond consumption seen in participants on hunger, appetite control and vitamin E and monounsaturated fat intake without any impact on body weight suggests almonds are a smart snack choice that can help support a healthy weight.

PUBLISHER DOMINIC DE SOUSA GROUP COO NADEEM HOOD PUBLISHING DIRECTOR, HOSPITALITY DIVISION DAVE REEDER dave@cpidubai.com M: +971 55 105 3773 GROUP SENIOR EDITOR, HOSPITALITY DIVISION MELANIE MINGAS melanie.mingas@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 56 758 7834 EDITOR DAVE REEDER SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION CHRIS HOWLETT PHOTOGRAPHER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION ANAS CHERUR DIRECTOR OF SALES, HOSPITALITY DIVISION ANKIT SHUKLA ankit.shukla@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 55 257 2807 SENIOR SALES MANAGER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION AJAY SHARMA ajay.sharma@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 50 419 5067 PRODUCTION MANAGER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION VA DEVAPRAKASH WEB DEVELOPER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION LOUIE ALMA DISTRIBUTION MANAGER ROCHELLE ALMEIDA SUBSCRIPTIONS www.cpievents.net/mag/magazine.php PRINTED BY Printwell Printing Press LLC, Dubai, UAE PUBLISHED BY

Head Office, PO Box 13700, Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 440 9100 Fax: +971 4 447 2409 Group Office, Dubai Media City Building 4, Office G08, Dubai, UAE A publication licensed by IMPZ © Copyright 2013 CPI. All rights reserved.

While the publishers have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information in this magazine, they will not be held responsible for any errors therein.

Under the directive of His Highness Sheikh Hamdan Bin Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum Crown Prince of Dubai and Chairman of Dubai Executive Council

Acknowledgement Za’abeel Palace Hospitality extends its deepest thanks and gratitude to:

His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum UAE Vice President, Prime Minister and Ruler of Dubai

His Highness Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum Crown Prince of Dubai and Chairman of the Executive Board

In appreciation and recognition for their Highness’ wise guidance that has had a profound impact on the success of the Dubai World Hospitality Championship as well as promoting the hospitality sector in the United Arab Emirates.

Za’abeel Palace Hospitality would also like to extend its sincere thanks to all the people who contributed to the success of the championship that was held at the Dubai World Trade Centre from 16 - 18 November, 2013.

Organised by

Supported by

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Supporting Partner

Strategic Partner

Government Support Partner

Support Partner

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UP FRONT / out and about

Three-in-one

In just four years, the Speciality Food Festival has grown by 300%, making it the fastest growing event for the fine food and gourmet sector in the region. This year, three gourmet food shows welcomed more than 350 exhibitors from 55 different countries.

Thousands of trade visitors attended the niche food shows - The Speciality Food Festival, SEAFEX and Sweets & Snacks Middle East - at the Dubai World Trade Centre after the trade shows were officially opened by HH Sheikh Majid Bin Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Chairman of the Dubai Culture and Arts Authority.

"The overwhelmingly positive response we have received from both exhibitors and visitors confirms the success of the shows at consistently delivering contracts and customers across the spectrum of the industry,” commented Trixie LohMirmand, Senior VP of DWTC. This year's shows attracted top players in the food services industry both from the region and further afield, with national pavilions from Korea

to Germany using the event as a platform from which to enter a highly-lucrative market. Fine dining restaurants are only one driver of demand in this increasingly mature market, which is underpinned by strong regional economic growth, a diverse range of expatriate residents drawn from all corners of the globe and a growing regional tourism industry.

Fine ingredients and premium food products from quality organic produce to specialist beverages and artisan cheeses were on display from participating countries including Argentina, China, Chile, Egypt, France, Germany, Philippines, South Africa, Spain, Tanzania and Vietnam. Key brands who exhibited include Chef Middle East, Swiss Bakery and Unifrutti.

Mike Walden, Commercial Director at 4 Corners General Trading said: "The show encourages the actual end-user of the products to interact with suppliers and discuss their requirements. We really welcome this as we always try to bring completely new products to the market.”

The Chef's Corner, presented by the Baking and Pastry Guild, remained one of the show's highlights with Dubai's top restaurants sharing fresh ideas and concepts using specially-selected products and ingredients from participating exhibitors.

Following the highly-successful inaugural event, SEAFEX - the region's most influential seafood indystry trade show - opened with a 38% increase in year-on-year exhibitor space. With many of the GCC's markets in the world's top ten in terms of per capita consumption, the show offers unrivalled networking and business development opportunities. Tarun Rao, Commercial Manager of Gulf Seafood believes it to be “the must attend event for the seafood industry in the region”.

“Safe and sustainable seafood requires healthy and productive marine ecosystems, which requires efforts from the wide range of ocean users.”

- Paul Holthus, founding President and CEO, World Ocean Council

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

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UP FRONT / out and about

The world comes to Dubai The inaugural Dubai World Hospitality Championship brought chefs from across the globe to compete, as well as showcasing traditional Emirati food through the involvement of local women’s associations.

The three day World Hospitality Championship (DWHC), organised by Za’abeel Palace Hospitality, was declared a success after more than 8,000 visitors enjoyed the traditional Emirati foods on display, the local products available for sale, the celebrity chef demionstrations and the lavish hsopitality from teams of competing international chefs. Celebrity chefs who took part included Silvena Rowe, Sanjeev Kapoor, Nermine Hanno, Martha Yanci, Suzanne Hussini, Osama, Tarek Ibrahim, Marco Pierre White and Joe Barza, whilst Emirati chefs Bader Al Awadhi, Musabbeh Al Kaabi and Ali Salem were active throughout the event.

HE Ahmed bin Hareb Al Falahi, President of DWHC, said: “Utmost care has been provided to all aspects of the competition, from the facilities offered to participants to the measures taken to ensure stringent levels of health and safety standards. No effort has being spared to make this inaugural event a truly memorable one.”

The Emirati Competition saw Dubai winning the Golden Award in all four categories of the competition, while Sharjah took away the Silver Award in the second place and Ajman the Bronze.

In the International Competition, The Singapore team won the Golden Award, while the US team won the Silver Award in the second place and the Australian team walked away with the Bronze Award.

HE Ahmed bin Hareb Al Falahi, President of DWHC

Traditional cooking on display

Opening the professional competition

World record truffle mosaic

“An event of this magnitude has incredible logistical demand, and the DWHC has surpassed them in the most spectacular way. From setting up kitchens to offering magnificent displays, a lot of money and effort has been spent in organising the event."

- Chef Charles Caroll, Congress Committee Chairman of WORLDCHEFS

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

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out and about / UP FRONT

VISITOR REACTION “A GREAT EVENT SHOWING THE EMIRATI CULTURE AND TRADITION IN A MODERN WAY. I LIKED THE EMIRATI HOMEMADE DISHES.” - JASON MOORE, WORKS IN DUBAI. “I LOVED THE IDEA OF MIXING THE PRESENT WITH THE PAST, THE EVENT REFLECTED THE GREAT UAE CULTURE. I ENJOYED THE EMIRATI HOSPITALITY AND ADMIRED THE FOOD ESPECIALLY THE EMIRATI BREAD.” - NEWMAN RAY. Judges comparing notes “NEXT YEAR I’D LIKE TO SEE LABELS ON THE EMIRATI DISHES IN THE HERITAGE VILLAGE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THE EMIRATI FOOD.” - JESSICA CHRIS. “THE LOCAL FOOD OUTSIDE WAS ALSO DELICIOUS EVEN THOUGH I HAD A DIFFICULT TIME UNDERSTANDING THE ARABIC LADIES.” - GIORGIO BARAMKI, VISITOR FROM ITALY. Plating up for judging

Local products on display

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UP FRONT / out and about

More chef competition More than 600 chefs contested four grand trophies at La Cuisine by SIAL in Abu Dhabi recently. SIAL Middle East is the region's fastest growing professional food business platform and every year it showcases its worldclass chef competition.

Organised by the Emirates Culinary Guild in association with the World Association of Chefs Societies, the premier chefs' competition La Cuisine

by SIAL took place alongside SIAL Middle East at the Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre. The world's most promising chefs competed across 17 different categories to win one of four trophies, including Best Cuisinier, Best Pastry Chef, Best Artist and the Best Arab National Chef.

According to Alen Thong, Co-ordinator at The Emirates Culinary Guild: "La Cuisine by SIAL is a celebration of taste and food presentation in all its delightful forms. This year's edition is particularly exciting with a wide range of culinary demonstrations including impressive edible setpieces, chocolate figurines, pastry showpieces and real-time cooking competitions. The competing chefs will have to demonstrate talent and perfection across the different categories and also at stake for all competitors will be silver and bronze medals and certificates."

Entries at La Cuisine by SIAL were arbitrated by a panel of international judges approved by the

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

World Association of Chefs Societies, all of whom give up their free time to volunteer in encouraging the young chefs of the industry.

Meanwhile Al Ain Fresh, a Division of AGTHIA company and Platinum Sponsor for La Cuisine

by SIAL, hosted a novelty competition - the Al Ain Fresh Mocktail Fusion. Targeted at Middle East mixologists, the competition was designed to honour a drinks professional who can create the most interesting, impressive and balanced amalgam of Al Ain Fresh juices combined with any other two ingredients.

Held in strategic partnership with Abu Dhabi Food Control Authority (ADFCA), SIAL Middle East 2013 also ran a three-day conference, a hosted buyer programme and the prestigious SIAL Innovation Observatory, showcasing 70 of the world's most innovative food and beverage products competing for the prestigious SIAL Innovation Award. US food maker American Delight was chosen as the winner of the prestigious SIAL Middle East Innovation Award, for its canned fishless tuna.

31 food and beverage products were shortlisted to win the award by a jury of independent food professionals, chaired by Xavier Terlet, CEO of the global food industry consultants, XTC World Innovation. Terlet said that the SIAL Middle East Innovation Observatory had a truly global appeal this year, with products coming from 14 countries, including three from the UAE. "It was very difficult for us to select the final winner this year because almost every product provided something new to the consumer," he said. "We chose the Fishless Canned Tuna because it is a 100% natural tuna substitute product made from vegetables and is ideal for vegetarians or for people who don't want to eat tuna for ecological and ethical reasons. I think this product will have big potential."

The shortlisted products at the SIAL Innovation Observatory were selected against specific food attributes that included health aspects, taste, ethics, convenience and appearance, as well as the level of innovation involved in developing the product, including the manufacturing process and ingredients.

www.cpimediagroup.com

UP FRONT / out and about

Cheese 101 Held at the Grand Hyatt in Dubai, the US Cheese Culinary Conference saw both chefs and retail partners gather to learn more about the history, diversity and future of American cheese.

O

rganised by USDEC (US Dairy Export Councl), the 2013 US Cheese Culinary Conference was an opportunity for chefs and other F&B professionals to increase their known of the breadth of the current US cheese industry, from artisan products to mass produced American cheeses.

Key speakers from the US, Mark Todd and John Esser introduced the conference by outlining the

HEADLINE Robust demand has boosted US dairy exports to MENA markets to $431m in 2012. This is 15% higher than 2011 and up 89% over the last five years. In 2012, 31,000mt of cheese, 34,000mt of butter, 42,000mt of non-fat dry milk/skim milk powder and 16,000mt of whey ingredients were shipped from US dairy suppliers to the region.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

evolution of cheesemaking in America from a cottage industry into the largest cheese producer in the world and then discussing how the US became the international leader in cheese production, technological innovation and total dairy exports.

John Esser from Wisconsin, the largest cheese producing state in the US, has spent over 37 years in the US food service industry with almost two decades as an independent consultant, using his restaurant experience as a chef to provide just the right cheese and recipe ideas to his clients. Mark Todd's love for cheese began when he stumbled upon artisan varieties in Sonoma County and he made cheese the major focus of his professional culinary life. Foe the last 20 years, he has worked to promote dairy and to educate the world about US cheese. He is also a founding member of the California Artisan Cheese Guild.

Chefs also had the opportunity to taste a wide varoety of US cheeses from soft and fresh which are one step removed from milk to hard and grading cheeses that are aged, whilst watching

demonstrations of cooking performance and discovering food service applications. They also rceived an overview of what’s hot in the world of US cheese, learning what is driving profitable cheese sales in America's restaurants. A tasting overview of American originals followed lunch, giving chefs the opportunity to taste both classics and groundbreaking artisan cheeses.

With its ample and rising milk production capacity and competitive product portfolio, the US dairy industry is well positioned and eager to fulfill the MENA region's expanding demand for dairy products, today and into the future. Advantageous land and resources along with the adoption of modern and efficient farming practices have enabled US dairy farmers to increase production by 18% since 2003. In 2012, US milk production was three times larger than New Zealand and Australia combined, producing more than 400 varieties of cheeses, including European-style selections such as cheddar and mozzarella, and American Originals like monterey jack, colby and cream cheese.

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out and about / UP FRONT

A festival in a cup The International Coffee & Tea Festival 2013 drew 6,500 visitors and set a fresher precedence for specialty coffee and tea in the region.

The International Coffee & Tea Festival saw both exhibitors and participants commending the strategic importance of the event for the Middle East coffee and tea industry. The show reinforced its position as the only dedicated trade event for the coffee and tea industry in the Arab world by drawing over 6,500 visitors to its fifth edition. The festival has been instrumental to the growth of the industry over the years and provides a platform for professionals and coffee/tea businesses to promote their products and explore new business channels.

The four-day event also resonated well with international exhibitors from across the world who are increasingly viewing the Middle East market as a very promising arena for investment and business prospects. Several of these participating businesses showcased new products and concepts at the show, delighting attendees with their unusual and tasteful beverages. According to Ryan Godinho, UAE's National Co-ordinator for World Coffee Events and Event Director of the International Coffee & Tea Festival: "The overwhelming response from participants and the tremendous footfall at this year's event signifies the growing relevancy of this platform in the region, which was introduced only five years back. We feel the success of the event will also serve as a boost for the industry, further encouraging investor confidence and presenting a more positive industry outlook globally."

"There was not a dull moment at the festival. The number of visitors kept growing throughout the four days. This has resulted in great exposure for our product line. With the wide array of items that we had showcased, our exhibition area was like a

festival within a festival. This platform definitely helped us to have a positive impact on the visitors and performed beyond our expectations," added Khalid Al Mulla, Director, Easternmen & Co. "We are very pleased with the outcome of our participation at the International Coffee & Tea Festival. Synesso was successfully launched within the Middle East region at this show which truly showcased excellence in an industry-relevant format. Our sponsorship at this event proved to be a worthy investment in our eyes, with our espresso machines attracting the attention of

Speaking about its significance for tea businesses, Ranjith Abeykoon, Director-Tea Promotion, Ceylon Tea, said: "With 310 million kilos of tea exported to the Middle East every year, it is very important for us to have a presence at the International Coffee & Tea Festival. Besides, over the last few years, customers here are becoming more discerning and have developed a preference for specialty tea. As we offer some of the choicest teas directly obtained from Sri Lankan tea plantations, we feel that this show is the best platform to showcase our products to the world."

Another highlight of the 2013 edition was the crowning of the champions of the UAE Barista and Latte Art Championships, which form a key component of the Festival.

Kushal Balami, from Coffee Raw won the Barista Champion title and he will now represent the UAE at the World Barista Championships in Italy next year. A close runner-up and a first time participant at the Barista Championships was Armiel Alkuino from La Marquise who delivered an excellent performance. The winning title of the UAE Latte Art Championship 2013 went to Nouman Qureshi from Icons Coffee who consistently created and served outstanding Latte Art designs to the judges during the contest.

"The International Coffee & Tea Festival is a one-stop destination for all facets of coffee, tea and café products, equipment and services in the Middle East. The 2014 edition of the show, which is expected to return on a much enhanced and business-conducive format, is already in planning phase, with the dates of the 2014 show soon to be announced," concluded Godinho.

"With 310 million kilos of tea exported to the Middle East every year, it is very important for us to have a presence at

the International Coffee & Tea Festival.”

- Ranjith Abeykoon, Director-Tea Promotion

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Ceylon Tea. many who seek to advance their coffee services above all else currently available in the market. We have established various business leads through the event and we look forward to being involved once again in the 2014 edition," commented Mark Barnett, Owner & Designer of Synesso espresso coffee machines.

"Tea traders and distributors at the International Coffee & Tea Festival also spoke highly of the event's role in promoting specialty tea businesses and noted that more and more people in the Middle East are now willing to spend money on varied tea blends and products.

December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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FEATURES / round table

Tarek Mouriess Executive Chef, Rotana Fujairah Resort & Spa

Elizabeth Stevenson Executive Pastry Chef, Qbara

Aldriene Nacabenta F&B Administrator, Rotana Fujairah Resort & Spa

Catering for taste Caught in the spotlight of discussions about healthy food, how can pastry chefs sidestep their traditional ingredients of our, sugar, butter, eggs and the rest? We gathered a small selection of interested parties for a round table talk about the issues.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

Round table sponsored by

Organic & Natural Food Products Mob: 00971 50 5676651

round table / FEATURES

T

here is a steady drip feed of news about health issues in the region - the number of children suffering from diabetes, the increasing levels of obesity, the almost commonplace incidence of gluten intolerance or one of a very large handful of other food allergies.

Chefs are in the forefront of the action. On the one side, they are part of an industry that depends on supplying what the public wants in order to stay in business; on the other, they’re more conscious than most about the links between nutrition and health. Add to that the very real dangers of causing diners discomfort or worse if they fail to maintain strict control over food substances that can cause adverse reactions and it’s clear that their job is not an easy one. Least of all for pastry chefs.

Essam Nabhan Executive Chef, Millenium Plaza Hotel

Jihad Shammaa Managing Director, Siha & Afia

How are you reacting to changing demand for different types of food given the back ground trends of rising diabetes and food allergies?

Essam Nabhan: I would dispute that this is a trend.

Diabetes is an issue for so many of our customers and people need to be offered different food choices. So many of them are suffering.

Elizabeth Stevenson: Absolutely, we’re not talking about a trend but a situation that is here to stay.

Nabhan: A lot of it is to do with the culture. A lot of us highlight on our menus what is suitable for diabetes or what is gluten-free, but people often don’t make those choices. I believe like seafood or Italian, this will becojme a major market segment.

Stevenson: Before, I think, there was a stigma attached to food being labelled like that and people perhaps thought it wouldn’t be tasty. Now, virtually everyone seems to have some food intolerance or allergy so my approach today is to make at least 80% of my desserts gluten free. However, we don’t advertise it as such, simply deliver it on the menu so that everyone can eat most of what we offer. We’re going milk free, egg free.

What about food labelling regulations?

Stevenson: Yes, there are ten main intolerances but to avoid foods that raise problems is not that challenging. In fact, it’s quite straightforward.

Tarek Mouriess: For me, the question is: Why not do it? We’re chefs and it’s up to us to make the changes, like we have with organic produce. Maybe we’re guilty of taking the market for granted - even if we think of these things, desserts are always piled high on our buffets. That’s the lifestyle. In the old days, a lot of these issues were purely medical, but now they’re part of a general shift to healthier living.

What are the particular issues of providing dishes to accommodate food intolerance?

Stevenson: Gluten is responsible for weight gain and I know from my reading that it is bad for just about everyone. However, when we talk about coeliac disease, we’ve shifted past sensitivity into a potentially dangerous area. Make a mistake and you have to close down the entire service.

Mouriess: It’s interesting that in China they eat an enormous amount of gluten but they’re not facing the same problems.

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December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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FEATURES / round table

Jihad Shammaa: We should be thinking about healthier dishes not just catering for people with allergies. Use low glycemic products. This isn’t a trend but supplying normal, healthy food. Sourcing is one issue for chefs. As is price.

Mouriess: Take something like organic chicken there’s a big difference in taste between that and the conventional. One issue, however, is that organic foods need immunity which they normally get from the ground. Our soil here is different and anti-biotics are required. But what’s the alternative. Is importing organic food affordable? Can we afford it?

Perhaps the question ought to be: If it affects your health, how can you not afford it?

Shammaa: We have to start somewhere. Everyone is a little afraid to begin because they don’t know enough about the alternatives.

Mouriess: We need to think more globally about healthy living.

Why are desserts in general so unhealthy here in the region?

Mouriess: It’s a cultural thing. Everyone here has a sweet tooth but, in general we are not fruit oriented - we don’t see that as a dessert, but crave cream and syrup! Trying to make healthier desserts is a brilliant concept, but I think it’s challenging. Even if you make a date cake it still needs binding with brown sugar.

Stevenson: When it comes to desserts, I’m not sure you can call that healthy. I pay a lot for the best ingredients, taking into consideration the restrictions we’re talking about. Desserts can be ‘healthy’ if eaten in moderation - not a cake a day!

Mouriess: A cake isn’t dessert. We’ve tried some things - a millefeuille made with brown flour and strawberries - it was unusual but interesting.

Shammaa: Healthier is all about the ingredients.

Most harm comes from processed products and so we need to find alternatives.

Mouriess: We’re talking neutralising here.

Nabhan: Maybe it was easier to be healthy in the old days. Before we had a car, we’d walk five

“It’s a cultural thing.

Everyone here has a sweet tooth but, in general we are not fruit oriented - we don’t see that as a dessert, but crave cream and syrup!

Trying to make healthier desserts is a brilliant concept, but I think it’s challenging.”

- Chef Tarek Mouriess 14

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

Round table sponsored by

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FEATURES / round table

kilometres to a friend’s house.

Stevenson: Back to Tarek’s point, fruit is the second least selling item in the restaurant and is only ordered by Westerners. Even someting like burrata with pomegranate seeds.

Shammaa: That’s a great anti-oxidant, just like cranberries. Again, neutralising.

Mouriess: Let’s be realistic. we live in the UAE and nothing grows in our back yards.

What can be done?

Mouriess: As chefs, it’s our responsibility to do something. I like Liz’ approach, what she has achieved with her menu. How much are we educated?

Shammaa: The means of reaching the end-user are controlled, but I believe the market is imporoving.

Mouriess: We need to impose healthy food on our menus nand we need to educate about health and about sourcing. I think it’s fantastic for chefs to have this opportunity to use the menu.

Stevenson: There’s certainly a very important job of informing our customers about even basic things like ‘this contains nuts’.

Nabhan: I think it’s interesting that the Municipality is taking a real interest in allergies. In case of special orders, now the PIC has to do the order by himself.

We use a kit with an allergy-free pan, special sanitiser and so on. This will become one of the food hygiene and safety requirements.

Mourries: It’s the same in Fujairah.

Nabhan: It’s interesting to me that when I worked in the Burj Al Arab, there were so many allergies - at least five every day. Now? I see very few.

Is there a business differentiator here?

Nabhan: Certainly, this segment has been neglected, just as the vegetarian market was. Will we see specialised restaurants? I’m not sure, although I’m considering special healthy theme nights. But I’m sure we’ll move past just having one corner of the buffet marked as gluten-free.

Mouriess: I like the idea of a healthy night.

Nabhan: The challenge is in the pricing.

Mouriess: A very valid point.

When I was growing up, I don’t remember people having issues about food intolerances.

When were you first aware of such things?

Mouriess: I’d say 1991 was the year I first heard of people with gluten issues.

Nabhan: 1993, but that was milk. Most chefs just don’t understand the roots of these sicknesses.

Shammaa: Most people have no idea what they’re serving their children.

Nabhan: Is healthy tasteless?

Mouriess: No. Look, we’re chefs. Our job is to improvise! You do it with protein - say you have an egg and some broccoli, then you’d simply steam the vegetable and make an egg white omelette and maybe a simple sauce with the egg yolk. We have to think the same way with desserts.

Nabhan: That makes sense.

Mouriess: I educated myself about these issues and started to use different products. We need to understand our customers. It’s that simple.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

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Nicholas Brooke from Jashanmal Group recieving the Award

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Contact us: Tel:04 4174883 I Email: nicholas@jashanmal.ae I www.jashanmalgroup.com

FEATURES / market focus

Without the right pans, all a chef’s professionalism and passion count for little. Unless the equipment measures up to the job, then it’s worse than useless. We gather together a collection of chefs to talk about what they look for in the pans they use every day and on which they stake their reputation.

18

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

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market focus / FEATURES

T

o the amateur, one pan is much like another - one of the reasons why amateurs ďŹ nd cooking harder than they should; but, to the professional, the quality and features of the pans in use every day in the kitchen are critical to success.

We spoke to the following chefs about what they’re looking for when sourcing new pans: t "OUPOFMMP .BODB &YFDVUJWF $IFG %VTJU 5IBOJ %VCBJ t $MBEZT .BHBHOB &YFDVUJWF $IFG 'BJSNPOU #BC BM #BIS t 4UFGBO #PSDIBSEU &YFDVUJWF $IFG .PFWFOQJDL )PUFM +VNFJSBI #FBDI t )BESJFO 7JMMFEJFV &YFDVUJWF $IFG 5PQ $IFG %VCBJ t 1BVM 3ZBO &YFDVUJWF 4PVT $IFG $POSBE %VCBJ What are the key things you’re looking for when choosing professional pans?

Antonello Manca: %VSBCJMJUZ XFJHIU IBOEMF feel and a good material.

Cladys Magagna: The right weight and the ability to hold temperatures.

Stefan Borchardt: 'BTU IFBUJOH B QSPQFS CBTF XIJDI JT IFBU QSPPG BOE XPOhU FYUFOE EVSBCJMJUZ easy cleaning, hollow handles, comfortable handless and handles which don't fall off after using for three times.

Hadrien Villedieu: 4UBJOMFTT TUFFM GPS TBVDFQBOT and Teon for frying pans or cast iron for cocottes.

Paul Ryan: %VSBCJMJUZ B HPPE DPPLJOH TVSGBDF and no transferable materials.

How much say do you have in stocking your pans? Is there pressure on price?

Manca: I have full say on the choice, of course. I always consider value for money and the quality versus price when choosing.

Magagna: I need more pans! There are never enough.

Borchardt: That varies from outlet to outlet of course, but overall 150 in different sizes for different purposes.

Villedieu: I choose and buy my pans. It’s like knives - something very personal for a chef.

Ryan: 100%.

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“My favourite pan is a simple stainless steel. The pan needs to be on the right temperature and nothing will stick on it. I also like a certain cast iron pan when cooking food on the gas stove.�

- Chef Stefan Borchardt Manca: " IFBWJMZ VTFE QBO MBTUT GSPN FJHIU months to a year, but a regularly used sauce pot can last for ďŹ ve years.

Magagna: I would say two years for aluminum, four years for stainless steel and a lifetime for copper.

Borchardt: That also varies. I would currently TBZ GPVS UP TJY ZFBST EFQFOEJOH PO XIBU LJOE PG stove you are using as there is a big difference CFUXFFO HBT PS JOEVDUJPO 'PS FYBNQMF DPBUFE omelette pans are used on induction stoves and don’t last more than two months and after that should be discarded. They are from 6am until 11am constantly hot and eventually the coating will come off.

Villedieu: If you wash and store them properly, they can last for one year or more. The best can last a lifetime.

Ryan: 4JY NPOUIT

Do you have a preferred manufacturer?

Manca: 5IBU EFQFOET PO UIF VTF 'PS "TJBO QPUT I would certainly prefer the imported brands from Thailand and so on. However, for general QVSQPTFT 1BEFSOP EPFT UIF KPC RVJUF XFMM XJUIPVU hurting our budgets!

Magagna: 'BML $VMJOBJS $PQQFS Borchardt: Not at all, as long as the criteria match.

Villedieu: :FT B 'SFODI POF %F #VZFS PS -F $SFVTFU Ryan: 1BEFSOP TPMJE CVU PQFO UP DIBOHF

How much do new varieties of pans or cookware affect your menu development?

Manca: Not much. It’s lucky for us having multi outlet operations as we tend to have enough variety to cater for most cuisine styles and cooking techniques.

Magagna: They have no effect.

Borchardt: They don't affect the menu engineering and development as at the end of the day a pan is a pan and food is food. I tried to work with ceramic pans, which are more FYQFOTJWF UIBO 5FnPO DPBUFE POFT CVU UIF SFTVMU JT OPU CFUUFS BOE UIFZ EPOhU MBTU MPOHFS .Z FYQFSJFODF XBT UIF PQQPTJUF BT UIF DFSBNJD DPBUFE pan was ruined after a day!

Villedieu: I’m not really into new varieties of pans. I just want solid ones.

Ryan: Not much.

What is the typical lifespan of a pan in your kitchen?

Do you have a favourite pan that you return to again and again?

December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

19

FEATURES / market focus

Manca: Yes, always my favourite is the non-stick low proďŹ le 28 cm diameter frying pan.

Magagna: 'BML $VMJOBJS $PQQFS Borchardt: .Z GBWPVSJUF QBO JT B TJNQMF stainless steel. The pan needs to be on the right temperature and nothing will stick on it. I also like a certain cast iron pan when cooking food on the gas stove.

Villedieu: Yes, copper for sure. 100%.

Ryan: " DBTU JSPO TLJMMFU QBO JU T KVTU DMBTT Your view of pans endorsed by celebrity chefs? Do they have any value or is it marketing hype?

Manca: 'PS TVSF DFMFCSJUZ DIFGT TIPVME NFSHF their names to quality products, at least this is what I would like to believe. I think the whole branding process goes hand in hand, with manufacturers gaining more visibility and the chefs spreading their names across the house kitchens.

Magagna: Yes, there is a value.

Borchardt: I think that is more for the household use and that type of marketing does not inuence me at all. I look at the ad, but then I go back to what I am used to.

Villedieu: Yes, they are good for home use but,

20

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

JO NZ PQJOJPO OPU GPS B QSPGFTTJPOBM 'PS TVSF there’s a lot of mareting involved.

Ryan: No value, in my opinion.

What do you use at home?

Manca: $BTU JSPO QBOT OP QMBTUJD IBOEMFT allowed! - and ceramic pans.

Magagna: 'BML $VMJOBJS $PQQFS Borchardt: .Z GBWPVSJUF *| N VTJOH #SBCBOUJB pots and pans at home which I selected to last for a lifetime. They heat up very fast, are very comfortable to handle and they also look great.

Villedieu: The professional equipment I’m used to.

Ryan: 5FGBM BOE -F $SFVTFU Your top tips for pan maintenance?

Manca: 3FHVMBS XBTIJOH BOE GSPN UJNF UP UJNF we place them in a decarboniser to clean the stainless steel from ame markings.

Magagna: Avoid using metal to stir food and never put them in the dishwasher.

Borchardt: If you spend some time and treat your pots and pans carefully, they will last longer BOE ZPV XJMM CF IBQQZ EVSJOH DPPLJOH 'PS B cast iron pan, after use wash it with soap and warm water, dry and then coat with a thin ďŹ lm

PG PJM UP QSFWFOU GSPN HFUUJOH SVTUZ 'PS 5FnPO coasted pans, don't wash them, just wipe with a clean cloth, or rinse them simply with hot water BOE NJME TPBQ "MTP XIFO 5FnPO DPBUFE QBOT are stacked up, put a clean towel in between to prevent them from getting any scratches on the DPBUJOH %POhU FWFS VTF IFBWZ EVUZ EFHSFBTFS PO them and during cooking only plastic spatulas. I bought mine at home two and a half years ago BOE VTF FWFSZ EBZ 'JOBMZ GPS TUBJOMFTT TUFFM QBOT don't use sharp objects during cooking and keep them dry and upside down.

Villedieu: Wash them carefully, don’t scrub them too much with a sponge and also store them properly.

Ryan: 4FBTPO SFHVMBSMZ BOE DMFBO UIFN ZPVSTFMG What’s on the top of your wish list?

Manca: $FSBNJD OPO TUJDL QBOT BSF DFSUBJOMZ TPNF my favourites at the moment, although they may not be suitable for all kitchens.

Magagna: 'BML $VMJOBJS $PQQFS Borchardt: .Z XJTI JT UP IBWF BO JOWJTJCMF DPBUJOH outside of every pan, so they won't get dirty.

"MTP UP IBWF BO JOEJDBUPS JG B IBOEMF HFUT IPU BT in a busy kitchen environment that can lead to injuries.

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Wrapped in Excellence: American Artisan and Specialty Cheeses Specialty cheese making is the fastest growing segment of the American cheese market.

American cheese production began centuries ago with the first European immigrants, and American cheese makers have never lost sight of their heritage.

Many have dedicated their lives to continuing the artisanal legacy of the first settlers.

Today, the United States is the world’s largest cheese producer with an award-winning portfolio.

U.S. cheese makers have perfected the art of cheese making, developing new technology to address the world’s growing need for high performance cheese.

American cheese makers produce over 400 premium cheese varieties, from European-style such as cheddar and mozzarella to American Originals like monterey jack, colby and cream cheese.

American artisan and specialty cheeses: Crafted in the United States, captivating chefs around the world

U.S. cheese makers have pioneered many advances in their craft, and their accomplishments have not gone unnoticed.

Competing side-by-side with their European counterparts, American cheese makers consistently win top accolades at international competitions such as the World Cheese Awards (WCA) and the World Championship Cheese Contest (WCCC).

The United States won 82 medals at the 2012 WCA, including 4 Super Golds in the top 16 cheeses.

U.S. cheese makers also dominated the 2012 WCCC competition, the world’s largest technical cheese competition, earning gold medals in 55 of the total 82 categories judged.

U.S. cheese is already available in your market. Check today with your local importer/distributor or contact USDEC for a list of local suppliers: USDEC Middle East (AMFI) / Beirut, Lebanon / Email: amfime@cyberia.net.lb / Phone: (961-1) 740378, 741223 The U.S. Dairy Export Council (USDEC) is a free resource to help you find additional information on U.S. cheese applications and distribution channels. USDEC is a non-profit, independent membership organization that represents the global trade interests of U.S. dairy producers, proprietary processors and cooperatives, ingredient suppliers and export traders.

FEATURES / product focus

Australian red meat exports to the MENA region are up 23% compared to 2011 and the region retains its position as the number one destination for Australian lamb exports. Melanie Mingas visits some of the country’s biggest feedlots and processing plants to find out why Photography credits: Steve Ryan, Christine Warren, Melanie Mingas

W

hen invited to tour Australia’s largest feedlots and processing plants, one can be forgiven for expecting to return a vegetarian, but one would be wrong.

In part that’s because of the Australian approach to rearing and slaughtering. As the world’s third largest exporter of beef, the off farm value of its beef and cattle industry stands at $11.83bn and involves 57% of all farms with agricultural activity. It’s the definition of big business – Australian beef alone contributes 17% towards the country’s total farm exports and the meat industry employs 200,000 people Australia is one of the world’s most efficient producers of cattle; essential considering that while each Australian sinks their teeth into an average of 32.5kg of beef a year, the country still manages to export 160,973 tonnes (shipped weight) of red meat to the MENA region alone, for retail and food service.

Despite the staggering numbers, the arresting detail about Australia’s meat industry is its compliance with some of the most stringent Halal practices.

Gaining the Halal certification in itself is a huge commitment for processing plants and farms, demanding both financial and quality commitments from their operators.

Some of the protocols include: Written verification from the slaughterer’s Mosque that they are a practicing Muslim; the separate processing and labelling of any animal whose skull is damaged during slaughter, and is therefore not Halal; thorough cleaning of all equipment that comes into contact with non-Halal meat. Testament to the rigour of the process, many plants have chosen not to renew their certifications.

Yet, as with many things, reading the testimonials and statistics doesn’t quite capture the gravity of what’s happening down under.

So here are the highlights of a whistle stop trip around Australia’s best meat production facilities.

22

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

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product focus / FEATURES

Located in southeast Queensland, around two hours’ drive from Brisbane, Kerwee Feedlot, operated by Stockyard, has a capacity of 11,100 head of cattle and is the exclusive supplier of long grain fed Angus Gold and Wagyu beef.

All cattle feed is supplied from on-site grain and pasture land, milled, manufactured and mixed according to an exact science that incorporates atmospheric conditions and nutritional requirements. The feeds, devised by CEO Lachie Hart, typically contain any combination of steam akes of grain – such as barley or oat – molasses, silage and vitamins and minerals.

This year, Stockyard’s crossbred Wagyu F4 won gold in the Australian Wagyu

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Association Branded Beef Competition.

Accreditations: t /BUJPOBM 'FFEMPU "DDSFEJUBUJPO 4DIFNF /'"4 /P

t &VSPQF 6OJPO &6

t &VSPQFBO 6OJPO (SBJO 'FE )JHI 2VBMJUZ #FFG &6 (' )2#

t $FSUJmFE "VTUSBMJBO "OHVT #FFG $""#

t /BUVSBM #FFG 1SPHSBN "VTNFBU

t .FBU 4UBOEBSET "VTUSBMJB .4"

t -JWFTUPDL 1SPEVDUJPO "TTVSBODF -1"

December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

23

FEATURES / product focus

In the farming town of Dubbo, a four hour drive east of Sydney, lies the family run Fletcher International Exports, a leader in the global supply of sheep meats, skins, wool, by products, cotton, grains and pulses.

Combined with a second plant in Albany, west Australia, Fletchers has a processing capacity of 90,000 sheep and lambs per week; 4.5million head per year distributed across 90 countries.

In addition to its animal welfare principles, Fletchers also aims to be as environmentally responsible as possible, both in terms of the rearing and utilisation of animal esh, taking more than 30 cuts from each animal.

Priding itself on maintaining the most hygienic, humane and Hala compliant plant in Australia, Stanbroke Pastoral Company is the largest, privately owned integrated beef business in the world.

The processing plant itself was designed by Dr Temple Grandin (see opposite) to eliminate animal distress and in additional to a full time Halal certiďŹ ed slaughterer, has an onsite vet and full inspection facilities.

A producer of Diamantina Wagyu and Angus, from both traditional and organic farming techniques, Stanbroke utilises genetic sciences from Japan in order to retain the quality of its produce.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

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product focus / FEATURES

Australian meat isn’t just big business for the food service sector. Remember that per capita consumption last year topped 30kg, which is where retailers such as Victor Churchill come in.

Located in a leafy Sudney suburb, the traditional butcher of premium quality meats counts the global culinary elite in its fanclub, alongside the regular local customers who can buy the finest cuts around.

Dr Temple Grandin Australian cattle are farmed and processed under principles developed by Dr Temple Grandin, the American born profession of animal sciences, bestselling author and autism advocate.

Most famous for her research into animal rights, particularly cattle, her research in the area has transformed modern farming.

From installing moving shade into feedlots, to the pathway cattle walk immediately before the slaughtering process, Dr Grandin has researched it all – even going as far as to stun herself to greater understand the slaughtering process.

Australian facilities have taken on her principles of a stress free life – and death – and even enjoyed a personal visit from Dr Grandin last month during the Beefworks conference, held in Queensland.

She said during the visit: “Calm animals produce more meat, and better quality meat. There’s a lot of research that shows cattle that get agitated while handling, are going to have lower weight gain and more dark cutting beef. I think we have to look at everything we do in agriculture and say ‘if we brought wedding guests out from Sydney, what would they think?’ A well run meat works would pass the test!”

Dr Temple Grandin, a renowned animal-sciences professor at Colorado State University, teaches a class in livestock.

Promoting itself as “Brisbane’s worst vegetarian restaurant”, The Norman Hotel prides itself on serving almost every steak under the sun, char grilled to each guest’s individual perfections. Celebrating 124 years in business this year, the restaurant sources from individually selected suppliers to ensure quality.

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Melanie Mingas' trip to Australia was sponsored by Meat & Livestock Australia (MLA), a producer-owned company whose mission is to deliver worldclass services and solutions in partnership with industry and government.

Promoting the quality, safety and nutritional value of Australian red meat both domestically and internationally, on behalf of the meat and livestock industry, MLA manages and operates a portfolio of marketing activities aimed at maintaining and increasing demand for Australian meat and livestock.

MLA in the Middle East North African region works with retailers, foodservice operators, importers, manufacturers and Australian exporters to maintain and increase the demand for halal red meat and livestock to the region.

December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

25

ADVERTORIAL

The base of quality Even the best chefs rely on prepared ingredients to deliver on quality and consistency.

Elle & Vire’s reputation is such that it has solid links with prestigious cooking schools such as Institut Paul Bocuse, Ecole Bellouet Conseil, Ecole Lenotre and Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona amongst others. Cluster Director of Kitchens for Al Bustan and Al Marooj Rotana, Chef Christophe Prud’homme, explains why he is an enthusiastic user.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

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ADVERTORIAL

G

rowing up on the family farm in Normandy, Christophe Prud’homme had every intention of joining the business and studied at business school to prepare himself. However, a chance remark led him to take a basic culinary school course at age 22 and his life took an entirely different course, that began with a shift to Paris to work in a Michelin one-star restaurant and then on to the 2-star Lenotre where he honed his skills for two years.

After that, he moved to London for 12 years, working on and around Park Lane in prestigious hotels such as the Sheraton, Four Seasons and The Dorchester before gaining his first Executive Chef position at The Meridien.

“Once you’re on that track,” he recalls, “doors open and possibilities are there.” That was true once again when he transferred to Dublin before taking his first non-European posting to Sharm Al Shaikh in Egypt.

“I learned such a lot there in my two and a half years and my business background really helped to make me effective, how to manage. We were serving 3,000 meals a day across two properties.”

Next on his career path was Dubai, some six years ago. “I joined the Al Bustan Rotana as Executive Chef and I really enjoy it, it has great atmosphere.”

He now has also taken responsibility for the Al

Murooj Rotana and, in total, has some 150 chefs working for him.

“One of the key things about my job is developing staff, helping them on their career path. That’s a great role to play and I’m lucky that I have my background in business because, as well as the culinary side, I can help them understand the business case, how to manage large operations, how to make the right buying decisions and so on.

The biggest lesson is this: it is not always about the food, but how you sell it.”

He’s passionate about quality and consistency.

“Those are central to any successful operation, as is the delivery of food to please guests.”

ELLE & VIRE DESSERT BASES t Bourbon Vanilla Crème Brûlée t Tiramisu t Panna Cotta t Chocolate cream and tart with Valrhona ® chocolate t Vanilla sauce t Mousse & Parfait

Crème brûlée with Madagascar Bourbon vanilla Ingredients 1 Elle & Vire Crème brûlée dessert base Method 1 Heat dessert base gently until the preparation begins to boil - 85C. 2 Arrange the dishes and leave to stand for 20 minutes at room temperature.

3 Place in the fridge for at least one hour.

4 Sprinkle with brown sugar and caramelise with a blow torch or caramelising iron just before serving.

5 Note: Unusused dessert base should be refrigerated (never frozen) and used within 48 hours.

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KEY BENEFITS FROM ELLE & VIRE DESSERT BASES t Optimum shelf-life from one litre cartons t Long-life with sterilised UHT t No eggs required for cooking t HACCP compliant t Traceable ingredients t Easy use, no extra ingredients required t Easy to portion t Adaptable bases t Consistent results

For example, he runs one of the largest banqueting operations in Dubai, with a wedding party for 500 guests every couple of days on top of normal service in all the hotels’ outlets.

“Food is about taste,” he insists. “If food is to your liking, then it’s a fun experience. People are looking for freshness but often they’re looking for comfort.” That’s why Crème brûlée is an ever popular choice for banquet menus.

“It’s simple but there’s something a bit special about it. In a restaurant, that’s the kind of dessert that you would make from scratch every time but the challenge is how to deliver it in exactly the same way for 1,000 or 2,000 diners? Handmade is impossible, so what is the solution when Crème brûlée is a must on the menu?”

He turns to a Crème brûlée dessert base from Elle & Vire that he has used since his days in Europe.

“It’s a very renowed brand and that’s important.

I may be French but I didn’t automatically choose a French company - no, it was critical that the company providing such a product was wellknown and had the highest standards. It delivers a consistent, quality product at any volume and makes my guests happy.”

Now, the level of demand is such that his two hotels use 480 litres of the dessert base every month!

“When you’re talking about such quantities of plates leaving the kitchen, especially when you’re dealing with an ingredient such as eggs that can be potentially harmful, then paramount is the need to feel safe about what you’re serving. The quality standards of Elle & Vire are such that I’ve never experienced a single problem, so my guests are eating good food safely.”

In fact, although he acknowledges that portion against portion, using a prepared dessert mix carries a slight price premium, he’s more than happy to pay it because of the clear benefits: “Tasty, hygienic, safer, convenient and consistent!”

December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

27

CHEFS / coup de theatre

Badoit Express is back!

French sparkling water brand Badoit once again created a stir on the Fête de la Gastronomie festival, once more hand in hand with leading Chef Thierry Marx. A total surprise, he delivered a gastronomic performance to drivers stuck in traffic on the famous rue de Rivoli.

S

ince 1778, Badoit, a naturally sparkling mineral water and a historic brand in France, has been a firm ally of chefs and gourmets all over the world, as the ideal accompaniment to all meals.

After pulling out all the stops last year by turning the regional RER train in Paris into a gourmet restaurant for the length of an end-of-the-day trip, Badoit raised the stakes even higher this year to offer a brand-new, unique experience to further emphasise the significance of gastronomy in the everyday life of the inhabitants of Ile-de-France -

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

the first ever gourmet traffic jam.

Transforming the rue de Rivoli in Paris into a rue de la Gastronomie was the bold challenge taken up

by Badoit and its ambassador, Thierry Marx, who is Executive Chef of the Mandarin Oriental Paris, just a few hundred yards from the rue de Rivoli.

A true Badoit lover who cooks with the water as well as serving it at table, Marx is also the President of the Fête de la Gastronomie in France.

Owing to clockwork organisation and flawless logistics, some 1,000 courses were served to the drivers who enjoyed the new Badoit Express

experience during rush hour. The first indication of the surprise to come happened at the first traffic light with a long line of waiters all along the carpacked street.

Bottles of Badoit in their hands, they were poised and ready to go all over the street, inviting thedrivers to embark on an exceptional culinary journey...

You can see the whole event here: www. multivu.com/mnr/62420-badoit-express-fetede-la-gastronomie-festival

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coup de theatre / CHEFS

Important numbers

1,000 COURSES SERVED

100

MAÎTRES D'HÔTEL, SPREAD OVER THE RUE DE RIVOLI

700

BOTTLES OF BADOIT HANDED OUT

3

THE DISTANCE IN KILOMETERS THAT THE EVENT ALMOST STRETCHED IN THE HEART OF PARIS.

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December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

29

CHEFS / pimp my plate

Bacalhau com natas

Bacalhau is the Portuguese word for cod, normally referring to dried and salted cod. It is said in Portugal that there are more than 365 ways to cook bacalhau, one for every day of the year. However, some writers put the number at over 1,000. Now, thanks to James Knight-Pacheco from Six Senses Zighy Bay, here’s yet another one.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

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pimp my plate / CHEFS

J

ames Knight-Pacheco is Chef de Cuisine of Sense on the Edge, a fine dining restaurant on the mountain side within the Six Senses Zighy Bay resort in Oman. Although he only joined in March of last year, the restaurant gained wider ecognition when it won the award for Best Restaurant in the 2012 Middle East Hotel Awards.

A long way from his start in Devon but his career to date has some glittering high points: Chef de Partie at Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s followed by Chef de Partie at The Square, runner-up in series two of BBC TV’s The Restaurant followed by Demi Chef de partie at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Chef/ tutor at Ashburton Cookery School and, finally, Head Chef at Assemblage, a London restaurant that combined art and fine dining.

At Sense on the Edge, he serves what he calls “modern European food with Middle Eastern influences - dishes include wagyu beef with carrot and sumac, scallops with almonds and pine nuts with pomegranate, and banana and Zighy date parfait. We have a fantastic organic vegetable garden here, so I work the menu mostly around the ingredients grown at the resort, such as aubergines, beetroot, tomatoes, baby carrots,

“The flavours and textures of my version are quite technical, however with the end result I feel it really brings the dish into the modern style of cooking I like to do.” spinach, lemongrass, ginger, dill, basil and parsley.

But we do have to import around 60% of our produce - our main suppliers are based in Dubai.”

His biggest challenges of working in Oman? “I have had to learn about different types of produce I’d not come across before, such as what to me are unusual fish like barracuda, helwa and sharri.”

Less unfamiliar for him was salt cod. The challenge was how to import a Middle Eastern style to the dish and deliver on his decontructive approach to modern cuisine. “This dish is incredibly classic, some very beautiful classic Mediterranean flavours. The challenge is to have the same components, but to really make the dish come alive with the techniques and presentation that we do here at Sense on the Edge. The flavours and

textures of my version are quite technical, however with the end result I feel it really brings the dish into the modern style of cooking I like to do.”

Salted, dried cod, usually comes from Norway, Iceland or Newfoundland. It used to be very affordable, but with the collapse of the cod stocks and dismantling of the Portuguese cod fleet, it became more expensive, especially near Easter and Christmas time, since it’s a part of many traditional dishes of the holiday season. However, there are still numerous bacalhau recipes, depending on region and tradition. In Portugal, it is said there are more than 365 ways to cook bacalhau, one for every day of the year; others say there are 1,001 ways. Whatever the number, bacalhau is a ubiquitous ingredient in Portuguese cuisine.

Salted cod with cream Serves: 4 Ingredients 4 fillets salt cod (about 450g) 1.35k of potatoes, peeled and cubed 1 onion 5 cloves of garlic, minced 5 tbsp olive oil 1 bay leaf 473 ml heavy whipping cream 1 cup milk 1/2 tsp nutmeg 2 tbsp unsalted butter 2 tbsp corn starch 1/2 tsp salt pepper to taste Method 1 Soaked the salted cod in water for 24 hours, changing water twice, then parboil for five minutes and flake to remove bones and skin. Set aside.

2 Peel the potatoes, wash, cut in small cubes and fry with 3 tbsp of olive oil. Set aside.

3 Slice the onion into thin rings, mince garlic and fry both with 2 tbsp of olive oil and a bay leaf until soft and translucent. Add the cod, sautee a little and then add the potatoes, mixing all together. Turn off the heat and set aside.

4 Preheat oven to 175C. 5 For the Bechamel, in a medium skillet, melt 2 tbsp of butter and slowly add the corn starch mixing well. Add milk, heavy whipping cream and mix well. Add the nutmeg, salt and pepper and cook over low-heat for about

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ten minutes until the sauce has a rich creamy texture. Add 2/3rds of Bechamel to the cod, potatoes and onion mix and pour into a large

baking dish then cover the mix with the rest of sauce and put in oven for 20 minutes. Put under salamander to form a golden crust.

December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

31

CHEFS / pimp my plate

Sense on the Edge Bacalao LEMON GEL

VIOLET POTATO CHIPS

Ingredients

Ingredients

8g agar agar

Violet potatoes, thinly sliced

300ml lemon juice

Maldon salt, to taste

300ml water Method

160g caster sugar

1

Set the deep fryer to 190C. Dry the potatoes

Method

as much as possible, then deep fry until crispy.

1

Mix the sugar and the agar together.

Lightly season with Maldon salt, then place

2

Place the water, lemon and agar mix in a pan. Bring

inside the pass to dry out - set the temp to

to the boil. Once boiling, turn to a medium simmer

60C and leave to crisp for up to two hours.

and whisk constantly for eight minutes - you may have to add an extra dash of water. Strain through a

SPINACH PUREE

fine sieve, place in the fridge until set. Once set, place

Ingredients

into the thermomix and blend to gel, then strain.

500g spinach 50-100ml water salt, to taste

KHOFFER Ingredients

2

Set the water bath to 90C and then place the chilled

0.5g xantham gum

1 khoffer fillet, skinned

potatoes back in the water bath and cook for 90 minutes

thyme seasoning

or until soft. Take out of the bag, straight into the moulis,

Method

Maldon salt, to taste

then through a drum sieve. Finally vac pac and chill.

1

o heat up the mash, first infuse milk, cream, and butter

2

1 small sprig of rosemary

3

Blanch and refresh the spinach three times.

Place the spinach in the Thermomix and

corn oil

and then heat up. Place the mash in the Thermomix

begin to blend on speed 4, slowly adding the

butter

and, with the butterfly whisk on speed 3, slowly add

water. Once the spinach has reached puree

lemon juice

the cream mixture. Whip the mash until nice and light

consistency, add the xantham gum and salt and blend at speed 10 for two minutes.

- pomme mousseline! Finally, place the mash through Method 1

Season the fish lightly, leave it in the chiller

the flour sieve, to ensure that the mash is light.

4

for 30 minutes. This will allow the flesh to

butter, then add the spinach puree and

become hard and makes it easy to cook.

mix well, checking the seasoning.

Check the seasoning. Pass through a fine sieve, keep in the fridge until needed.

When required, re-heat the mash with the

KHOFFER SKIN CRISPS Ingredients

Note: whenever cooking Khoffer, it is essential 2

3

that you cook it in a non-stick pan.

RED ONION PUREE

khoffer skin

Place the pan onto a medium heat, place in the oil

Ingredients

Maldon salt

and allow to heat up. Meanwhile, season the fish

3kg red onion, sliced

olive oil

with thyme seasoning and a small pinch of Maldon

100ml vegetable oil

salt, on both sides. Once the pan and the oil are hot,

100ml sherry vinegar

Method

place the fish in the pan, skin side down. At this stage

50ml Worcestershire sauce

1

do not move the fish or shake the pan. The fish must

salt, to taste

be golden brown on the skin side; you can check this

200g unsalted butter

by gently lifting the fish with a spoon. Once the fish

100g caster sugar

is golden brown, add rosemary and the butter. Att

1g cayenne pepper

this stage, turn the fish over and squeeze some fresh

0.5g xantham gum

2

Place the skin inside a de-hydrator- set the temperature to 52C and leave overnight.

3

o finish, pre-heat the deep fat fryer to the hottest possible setting, once ready, deep fry the de-hydrated skin crisps and, once cooked,

lemon juice over the top, then leave the fish in the pan for 20-30 seconds - this will help to finish off the

Lightly rub the fish skin with olive oil, the lightly season with salt.

1

season lightly and serve straight away.

Heat up a pan, add the oil and, once hot, add the

cooking. To finish, place a drop of fresh lemon juice

onions with a pinch of sugar. Once the onions are

and a grain of Maldon salt on the top of the fish.

soft, turn the heat down to a mild heat and stir

SHALLOT RINGS

occasionally, cooking for two hours. Then all rest

Ingredients

of ingredients and cook for a further hour.

banana shallot

Place the cooked onions in the Thermomix, set the

plain flour

2kg desiree potatoes (sliced)\300ml milk

temperature to 90C, speed 4, cooking time 20 minutes.

sea salt, to taste

200ml double cream

Then blend the puree at speed 10 for two minutes,

cayenne pepper, to taste

spinach puree

check the seasoning then pass through a fine sieve.

CHLOROPHYLL MASH POTATO Ingredients

2

Method

cayenne pepper, to taste 220g butter

OLIVE POWDER

Maldon salt, to taste

Ingredients

1

that you have perfect circled sliced shallots.

black olives, halved and destoned 2

Method 1

Season the flour, place the shallot rings in the

Place the sliced potatoes into a vac pac bag, as flat

Method

seasoned flour, and then shake off the excess

as possible when they are being vacuumed. Once

1

Place the olives on a non-stick tray, leave

flour. Pre-heat the deep fryer to the highest

vacuum packed, place in the water bath at 72C for 90

under the lights until completely dry, then

possible temperature, deep fry the shallots just

minutes to lock in the starch and stop the potato from

finely chop. Keep in an airtight container.

until they are golden brown in colour, season,

becoming sticky. Once time is up chill straight away.

32

Peel the shallot then slice the shallot on the meat slicer as thin as possible, making sure

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

then place in the de-hydrator for two hours.

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recipe corner / CHEFS

Chocolate geometry A crazy, passionate Italian, Chef Gianluca Fusto has been working with Valrhona for a decade, splitting his time between live demonstrations and perfecting his recipes, most recently seen in his book Percosi (Paths), which contains dozens and dozens of techniques, pairings and brilliant ideas.

DULCEY TART HAZELNUT SWEET SHORTCRUST Ingredients 220g butter, 82% fat 175g powdered sugar 60g ground hazelnuts 100g whole eggs 120g cake flour 340g cake flour 5g fleur de sel Method 1 Soften the butter at 25C, add the sugar, ground hazelnuts and eggs in a freestanding mixer with a paddle attachment. Mix with the first quantity of flour. Finish with the remaining flour and the salt.

Set aside in the refrigerator at 4C for a minimum of three hours and then roll out to a thickness of 2.5mm. Line the molds and bake in a preheated oven at 160C with the damper open.

2 Tip: To avoid the tart bases becoming soggy, paint while still hot with cocoa butter melted at 55C. VANILLA DULCEY CREAM Ingredients 250ml fresh full-fat milk

5g powdered gelatin 25ml mineral water 20ml glucose syrup 30g cocoa butter 400g Valrhona Dulcey 32% 500g crème fraîche, 35% fat 3g vanilla bean Method 1 - Soften the gelatin in cold water.

Bring the milk to the boil with the glucose and vanilla and then add the gelatin.

2 Melt the Dulcey chocolate at 45C and add the cocoa butter and vanilla. Gradually pour the hot liquid onto the melted chocolate, mixing vigorously until glossy and elastic, signifying the emulsification process is underway.

1 Blend for two minutes to perfect the texture, taking care not to incorporate any air. The mixture should be kept above 35C, at which temperature the cocoa butter will solidify. Add the cold cream. Blend again, taking care not to incorporate any air.

Cover with food wrap in contact with the surface and leave to set in the refrigerator at 4C for a minimum of six hours.

WHIPPED SALTED PEANUT GANACHE Ingredients 180ml whole milk 180g crème fraîche, 35% fat 60ml glucose syrup 60g invert sugar 70g cocoa butter 190g peanut butter 520g cr√®me fraiche, 35% fat 3g fleur de sel

CARAMEL GLAZE Ingredients 300g caster sugar 400g mineral water 220g dextrose 120g atomised glucose 280ml condensed milk 18g powdered 200 gelatin 120ml mineral water 140g cocoa butter 300g Absolu Cristal neutral glaze

Method 1 - Bring the milk and the cream to the boil in a pan along with the glucose and invert sugar. Melt the cocoa butter at 50C and add the peanut butter and salt.

Gradually pour the milk onto the cocoa butter mixture mixing vigorously until glossy and elastic, signifying the emulsification process is underway.

2 Blend for two minutes to perfect the texture, taking care not to incorporate any air. The mixture should be kept above 35C, at which temperature the cocoa butter will solidify. Add the crème fraîche. Blend again, taking care not to incorporate any air.

Cover with food wrap and leave to set in the refrigerator at 4C for a minimum of six hours.

Method 1 Soften the gelatin in cold water.

1 In a saucepan, caramelise the sugar dry at 185C. Heat the water in the microwave and use to stop the caramel cooking. Add the dextrose and atomised glucose and heat to 102C. Add the condensed milk, Absolu Cristal and the gelatin and bring to the boil. Add the liquid to the melted cocoa butter in several goes until glossy and elastic, signifying the emulsification process is underway. Blend to finish.

2 Leave to rest overnight in the refrigerator. Use the following day at 27.5C, adding water if required.

SALTED CARAMELISED PEANUTS Ingredients 180ml 30% sugar syrup 440g peanuts 2g fleur de sel Method 1 Heat the syrup in a pan to 110C, add the peanuts and heat lightly, adding the salt. Mix. Sift to sort the peanuts to the desired size. Vacuum seal to store.

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Final assembly 1 Reheat the Dulcey cream to 22C and pour into the tart shells. Sprinkle the surface with the Salted caramelised peanuts and crispy pearls.

Leave to set in the refrigerator and freeze if necessary.

2 Pour the Whipped salted peanut ganache into stainless-steel molds and chill immediately. To finish, temper the caramel glaze to 34-35C and glaze the whipped ganache. Carefully arrange on the pastry, using an angled spatula.

Decorate as in the photograph.

December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

33

CHEFS / recipe corner

Black cod in miso It may be a culinary cliche now but Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s black code in miso for his eponymous Nobu restaurants was a game changer. Here’s the master’s own recipe.

Ingredients 8 x Alaskan black cod (22g each) 8 bamboo leaves 2 lemons or local limes 8 hajikami ginger 900ml dashi stock 1.3 kg sugar 400g honey 1.5 kg white miso paste

34

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

Method 1 About two days ahead make the saikyo miso. In a heavy-based non-reactive saucepan, bring the dashi to boil. Using a wooden spoon, stir in the sugar and the honey until it has dissolved, then slowly mix the miso paste, a little at a time. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly so as not to let the mixture

2

3

burn, for ten minutes. Strain the mixture through a sieve to remove any lumps, allow to cool and then chill until quite cold.

Place the fish in a non-reactive container and pour a good splash of the saikyo miso over each fillet and leave to marinate for two days in the refrigerator.

When you want to cook the fish, preheat a hot grill or the

4

oven to 200C. Place the fillet in the grill pan or on a non-stick baking sheet and cook under the grill, or in the preheated oven for 10-12 minutes, turning once if grilling, until cooked through and golden on the outside.

Place on a serving dish and dress the plate with a bamboo leaf, lemon and hajikami with a little extra saikyo miso.

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CHEFS / face to face

Born in Brittany, Master Chef of France Didier Corlou couldn’t wait to see the world. After three years getting experienve in French inns and restaurants, he left for Asia aged 20 and hasn’t looked back, enchanted with the exotic spices and fruits of Africa and Asia.

A

Member of Culinary Academy of France, Chef Didier Corlou is as passionate about the cuisine of Vietnam as he is of his native dishes. With France’s colonial history in Indo-China, he delivers at his signature restaurant in Hanoi, La Verticale, a combination of two cultures and two cuisines. “After the Americans left,” he recalls, “I was the first fine dining chef to move to the country.”

Passionate and charming, even though a photoshoot and gala dinner await his attention

36

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

during his all-too-brief residency in Voi at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, his only slightly out of character moment is a gentle dig at fellow Hanoi-based and TV celebrity chef Bobby Chinn. “It’s California Asia,” he smiles. “All wasabi on top of things while at the start he was copying me.” I suspect he’s joking, after all this is a chef who has moved easily cooking for presidents in Africa, show business stars in Bora Bora, royalty in Malaysia, the king of Cambodia, as well as working across the globe, including though Africa, Polynesia, Indian Ocean,

the Caribbeans and Southeast Asia.

Now his passion is in mixing French ingredients with a Vietnamese sensibility for creating new tastes. Grilled duck foie gras with lemongrass, for example, or spring roll with truffles, crab cannelloni with sea urchin nectar or pork nougat with caramel.

He’s also become a passionate advocate of Vietnamese cuisine and ingredients, having demonstrated in Singapore, France, the USA, Thailand, Mexico, Australia and now Dubai. “I’m

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face to face / CHEFS

THE ART OF PHO

Lobster roll in spice caramel, rhubarb and vanilla Serves 1 Ingredients 1/2 lobster (about 200g with the shell) 200ml liquid caramel 30g butter 1 stick vanilla 1/2 shallot 1 scallop 50g rhubarb 10ml white wine lemon juice 1 lemon 20ml orange juice 3 bay leaves 5ml honey 1 star anise 1 small cinnamon stick 2g wild pepper salt and pepper sugar 50g sweet potato Method 1 For the spice caramel, make a caramel sauce and add some curry powder, five spices and butter. Set aside.

2 Make a beurre blanc, by boiling white wine, chopped shallot and vanilla, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15

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3

4

5

6

minutes before adding butter, salt, pepper and a drop of lime juice. Set aside.

For the rhubarb, skin it and cut into 5cm pieces. In a pot, add orange juice, bay leaves, star anise, cinnamon sticks, a little honey and boil it before simmering for about 15 minutes. Blanch the rhubarb for two minutes and remove from the pot. Set aside.

For the sweet potato mash, boil the lemon with 1l of water, 200g sugar and 20g salt then reduce heat and simmer for 90 minutes. Then chop lemon into small cubes. Boil the sweet potatoes and then transfer to a contaioner, skin and mash. Add potatoes to the pot with the chopped lemon, some fresh seaweed and some drops of spring onion oil. set aside.

For the lobster, blanch it for ten minutes and transfer to cold water with ice. Remove the head and keep aside for decoration later.

Cut lobster in half lengthways and panfried it before tossing in spice caramel.

To plate, arrange the rhubarb in the centre, the sweet potatoes and lobster on top, add sliced scallops on top of lobster and use lobster head for decoration. serve the beurre blanc in a sauce boat on the side, garnished with a vanilla stick.

To have steaming bowl of pho, crouching on a stool a tightly-packed shop, crowded with customers is an art in itself. You orderon arrival, a bowl of rare or well-done beef pho, with or without onion, and of course, no seasoning.

A few minutes later, the pho will be served at your table. The ritual begins: squeeze on some lemon, add chilies and pepper, then mix the soup with chopsticks. Bring the bowl level with your mouth and start to swallow it while drinking the bouillon with a porcelain spoon.

In the past, pho was mostly served in the morning and when Vietnam experienced difficult periods, Hanoians only had the soup on Sundays or when they were sick. It cost 3 cents (xu) a bowl in those days. Nowadays, people have pho any day, at any time of the day, especially in the evening. Although lifestyles and habits have changed, pho remains the hallmark of Vietnamese cuisine, despite the competition of other delicacies, such as banh cuon (steamed rice pancake stuffed with chopped pork).

Pho, the best soup of the world, is the representative of Vietnamese gastronomy. It is equivalent to paella in Spain or the double pancake of Brittany. It is a unique dish, served with white noodles, consommé, sliced meat, fragrant herbs, grilled onion, added with nuoc mam (fish sauce) and perfumed with lemon, chilli, herbs and spices.

Today, it has become the pride of a nation.

Popular and economic, pho can be an enjoyed by almost anyone, of any social range or status.

And, for a bowl of pho, there is only on place to go - Hanoi!

Pho can be cooked with fish, duck, and vegetables. In the countryside, people also make pho with pork, even the pig’s hearts or kidneys. What you make it with is not important, after all, pho will still remain what it was before: the pride of Hanoi’s people.

[Extracted from a booklet written by Chef Corlou in 2003, to mark a series of seminars organised by him and the European Commission to Vietnam to discuss the origins of pho noodle soup.]

December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

37

CHEFS / face to face

here because of the chef,” he explains. “He came to Verticale three years ago to study and learn - I’m happy to come to Voi and spread the word about the cuisine. Dubai is truly a world place and there’s lots of international cuisines - Vietnamese food can be very good here.”

He sees Vietnamese cuisine - or, rather, the cuisine of Indo-China as he prefers to call it - as unique because of the mix of cultures. “It’s not just the influence of the French and the Americans, but the history of the country and a thousand years of three distinct cuisines growing in the country.”

By this, he means the sweet and spicy style of the south based around Saigon, the spicy food of Hanoi and the salty and bitter taste of the north. “We have 54 different minorities, so there’s quite a mix.

“To evolve in a space where the West meets Asia, where the two come together for a cuisine in a perfect balance of tastes and textures.”

Me? I prefer the taste of the north.”

Married to a Vietnamese woman, his whole family is involved in the selection of restaurants he owns, from the upscale Verticle down to the more traditional Madame Hien outlet. “Food is passion,” he insists. “Our four restaurants are a family business and we’re passionate about people.

I love cooking - in fact, I prefer it to talking. My life makes me happy. My family are the driving

force behind my interest in this cuisine and a continuous point of reference, a constant incentive.

My wife gives me advice regarding Vietnamese culture and traditions, ways and customs, intimate knowledge, trifles too. Without her, I probably would not have developed this desire and urge to re-interpret Vietnamese cuisine and we wouldn't have our children, for whom I mix ingredients and techniques to remind them their dual origin.”

5 egg yolks 200g sugar 500g banana 200ml whipping cream Hanoi 5 spices Method 1 Peel the banana and cut into large pieces. Cook with 50g of sugar and 5 spices then crush with a fork, reserving a little for a quenelle. Put the remainder into crème brulee dishes.

2 Mix sugar and egg yolk and whipping cream until foamy. Cook on a low fire until thick then pour the mixture into ten moulds on the top of crushed banana. Then bake in an oven at 90C for about one hour. Take out from the oven and keep in the fridge.

3 Before serving, sprinkle sugar and grill the surface under the salamander.

4 Put the banana quenelle on top of burned cream.

Exotic - around the passion and the mango Serves 10 MANGO Ingredients 3 mango 300g sugar 3 egg 100ml caramel with spices 10g crispy young rice 10g black sesame 1l young rice ice cream Method 1 Make a soup with the mango and some sugar.

2 Poach the egg white with sugar.

3 On a plate, pour the mango soup, put a ball of young rice ice cream, the white egg then the young rice, the caramel and the sesame.

38

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

CURRY ICE CREAM Ingredients 12 egg yolks 1l milk 150g sugar 500ml cream 100g halong curry powder Method 1 Mix egg with the sugar. Boil milk and then pour slowly into the egg mix. Add cream and mix everything at once. Cook on a low heat, as with a crème Anglaise. Cool, add curry powder and turn in the ice cream machine.

BANANA CREAM BRULEE Ingredients

PASSION CAKE Ingredients 600ml passion fruit juice 500ml fresh cream 12 eggs 500g sugar 220g flour 200g butter 400g iiced fruits halong curry ice-cream 2 lemongrass sticks curry power Method 1 Cook butter in a bain marie.

2 Foam fresh cream 3 Beat egg with sugar, flour, butter, passion fruit.

Add foamy cream and 80g of diced fruits. Mix. 4 Pour into ten moulds. Cook in oven for 15-20 minutes at 180-200C. 5 Decorate with lemongrass, curry power and kinh gioi herb.

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CHEFS / face to face

The Slow Food movement aims for a world in which all people can access and enjoy food that is good for them, good for those who grow it and good for the planet. How achievable is that in this region? Laura Allais-Mare thinks the Slow Food Dubai convivium (chapter) can make a difference.

T

he 1980s and the inexorable march of fast food across the planet reached a tipping point: a move to open a branch of McDonald’s at the iconic Spanish Steps in Rome. Carlo Petrini, an ordinary Italian from Bra in Piedmont, was horrified and started a grassroots campaign to block the opening, claiming it was an insult to his country’s great food culture.

Things got worse. Petrini went to a local restaurant to eat the local dish of pepperonata, a dish he’d enjoyed there for years. However, it didn’t taste as it usually did and, enquiring what was different, Petrini discovered that the chef was using peppers imported from Holland instead of local peppers, on grounds of expense.

The two strands came together when Petrini founded Slow Food, a movement dedicated to celebrating the best of local food and to supporting local farmers. As the Slow Food Web site puts it: “We oppose the standardisation of taste and culture and the unrestrained power of food industry multinationals and industrial agriculture.”

At the heart of everything that Slow Food supports and celebrates are three simple rules: t (PPE GPPE JT EFmOFE CZ iB GSFTI BOE nBWPSTPNF seasonal diet that satisfies the senses and is part of the local culture”. t $MFBO GPPE JT EFmOFE CZ iQSPEVDUJPO and consumption that does not harm the environment, animal welfare or human health”.

40

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

SLOW FOOD AT A GLANCE t A network of 100,000 members in over 150 countries - grouped in 1,500 local chapters called convivia - develops activities, projects and events at a local, regional and global level. t There are currently more than 5,000 Slow Food initiatives each year. t Over 10,000 small producers are involved in more than 400 Presidia projects. t Over 1,000 products at risk of extinction are being promoted through the Ark of Taste catalogue. t There are 1,300 food education activities and 350 school gardens in 100 countries. t The Terra Madre network organises activities which involve 2,000 food communities, 1,000 cooks, 500 academics and 1,000 young activists globally.

t 'BJS GPPE JT EFmOFE CZ iBDDFTTJCMF QSJDFT GPS consumers and fair conditions and pay for producers”.

In this way, food becomes tied to other aspects of life, including culture, politics, agriculture and the environment - the very opposite of the fast food ethos. Through educating consumers, they become part of the solution in demanding food that is good, clean and fair.

It’s easy, of course, for critics to suggest that support for Slow Food is a typical middle class trend, but the issues its members are highlighting are desperately important. For example, a recent report by the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation focused on the rapid decline of genetic diversity among livestock and crops - in the last 100 years, around 75% of genetic diversity has been lost with local crop varieties replaced by monoculture. There are about 30,000 edible plant species but 95% of human food energy comes from just 30 crops and 60% of that from rice, wheat, maize, millet and sorghum. And, if that weren’t enough, almost a quarter of domestic breeds are moving towards extinction.

To find out what Slow Food can do to address concerns about sustainability, produce quality and carbon miles amongst other issues, we spoke to Laura Allais-Mare, the founder of the Slow Food Dubai convivium.

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face to face / CHEFS

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December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

41

CHEFS / face to face

Slow Food in Dubai, the city of bling and excess. Isn’t that rather counter-intuitive?

The main reason I thought Slow Food Dubai should be started was that people need to be aware of what’s in their food and that’s as true here as BOZXIFSF .PTU PG PVS GPPE IFSF JT nPXO JO GSPN somewhere else, quite often the countries we come from, so information about food is important.

Related to that, we’re going to return to our native countries or move on to other destinations and it’s quite likely that the Slow Food movement will also be active there. The reality is this: people just don’t appreciate what pesticides and chemicals do to their health, so there’s a huge need for education about health and taste.

Slow Food supports organic farming, right?

I believe organic food tastes better but, as you’ll know, most research doesn’t agree.

The organic movement is growing. Look, Dubai is not Europe but more and more people are turning to organic food - there’s fantastic produce available now from farmers’ markets. I also run a balcony gardening group on Facebook and it’s incredible how different vegetables taste when you grow them yourself and you know how they’ve been grown. Of course, you can’t feed yourself from a balcony but I have my own tomatoes, brinjal, carrots, onions and, naturally, herbs.

How is the Slow Food Dubai convivium going?

Well, we started the process back in February with four supporters and now 50. However, all organisations in Dubai now need licensing and we’ree waiting for that process to be completed before we can become really active and hold meetings and so on. But we’ve got some great TVQQPSUFST TVDI BT UIF (SFFO 4IFJLI $IFG 3VTTFMM *NQJB[[J GSPN (BMFSJFT -BGBZFUUF 4V[BOOF )VTTFJOJ and so on. We think 200 members by the end of next year is a reasonable target and I especially want to see Emirati members.

200 members seems quite modest and a slow growth.

That’s why our symbol is the snail! Slow Food has traditionally grown slowly.

Do you have members from other Emirates?

No, Slow Food doesn’t work quite that way. So conviviums are being created in Abu Dhabi and Ras Al Khaimah and, in time, we can all petition Slow Food International and create Slow Food UAE. That’s the model. However, just because we’re Dubai-based, that doesn’t mean we don’t take a real interest in food both across the UAE and, because of strong historical ties, in Saudi, Oman, Yemen and even Iran. What people don’t realise is that even here in the UAE there are unique indigenous crops and foods - in the mountains of Ras Al Khaimah, for example, they have a unique variety of wheat from which they make bread which you can only buy locally. It’s things like that CSFBE UIBU * XBOU UP UBLF UP UIF 4BMPOF EFM (VTUP

42

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

“What people don’t realise is that even here in the UAE there are unique indigenous crops and foods - in the mountains of Ras Al Khaimah, for example, they have a unique variety of wheat from which they make bread which you can only buy locally.� next October in Turin, which is an international celebration of artisanal, sustainable food. Our farmers should go out into the world and meet other farmers. Despite what people think, we have biodiversity here, we have unique foods here.

Does the movement support local producers, even if they’re not indigenous? I’m thinking of operations like the Italian Dairy in Sharjah.

Yes, of course. It’s funny - people look at that

company and say they’re not making a real Italian product but did you know that 70% of the milk in *UBMZ JT BDUVBMMZ JNQPSUFE GSPN (FSNBOZ Finally, what can Slow Food Dubai do for chefs?

Like anyone, chefs can learn more about the food we all eat. They can also discover more what they can do, especially those with a following because UIFZ DBO CF HSFBU JOnVFODFST

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Signature plates Would you like to be a part of our exciting, on-going series of recipe supplements, produced in association with RAK Porcelain? :H路UH ORRNLQJ IRU WHQ FKHIV HYHU\ PRQWK WR MRLQ XV <RX FKRRVH WKH UHFLSH DQG WKH SODWH :H SKRWRJUDSK \RXU GLVK ,W路V WKDW VLPSOH 3OHDVH FRQWDFW PH LI \RX路G OLNH WR VHH \RXU UHFLSH LQ 6LJQDWXUH 3ODWHV dave@cpidubai.com

LEISURE / travel

These days, you can't get away any more not knowing where Melbourne is. The city â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;south of Sydneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is now a world-renowned city in its own right. In fact, Melbourne presents a cosmopolitan environment within a city that hustles and bustles with the best of them. And, just as importantly, it's a great destination for the travelling chef. Melbourne native Caroline Maher bangs the drum for her home town.

Photographs courtesy: Visions of Victoria and photos.com

44

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

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travel / LEISURE

D

oes this city live up to catering to the needs of travellers worldwide as much as its residents? Absolutely! Is there anything to do in a place with so little obvious history? Absolutely! I may be biased, but my home town is the nation's fashion capital, a sporting centre (Aussie Rules football, Melbourne Cricket Ground, Formula 1, the 2006 Commonwealth Games, amongst other events) and a cultural centre - this place just buzzes!

Not that Melburnians don't indulge themselves too. This is a place to eat and to shop - our other two major loves. Some of the southern hemisphere's largest shopping malls are here, especially in the city's suburbs. Inner city Melbourne has seen a great renaissance in recent years, reinvigorating the streets and mirroring images of the 'Marvelous Melbourne' of the past. Its perfect grid structure lined with Victorian architecture, lush trees and rattling trams makes it easy to navigate and pleasing to the eye. Café culture is a fundamental element of the city and some of the best baristas and brews can be found down eclectic arcades linking the main thoroughfares. You'll also never go thirsty with an equally strong bar culture - not surprising for the city that fathered Foster's.

But what makes Melbourne a great destination for food lovers is the recent resurgence of interest in quality food. Two decades ago you'd be hard pressed to find a dozen great inner city restaurants; now, you'll be spoiled for choice. As an example there's MoVida, a tapas bar hidden down a lane way behind the historical Forum Theatre that's now a firm favourite pre/post show. Placing its inventive twist on Hellenic dining, Greek eatery The Press Club won a Best New Restaurant title.

And a short tram ride downtown you'll find Shannon Bennett's illustrious Vue de Monde and his gastronomic delights that have the diners oohing and aahing at every dish. The restaurant itself has two tables carved from wood taken from the now demolished Ponsford Stand of the Melbourne Cricket Ground and an atmosphere that is warming and endearing. "I just wanted to create something that leaves a little bit of history and at the same time create something contemporary. It adds another dimension to the restaurant and ties in with the restaurant being in Melbourne." The local chef earned his apprenticeship at Melbourne's Grand Hyatt before venturing off to Europe, working for the likes of Michel and Albert Roux and Marco Pierre White before bringing his talent and passion back home. "Great food in Melbourne is not a fad or a fashion,"Bennett says. "There is a tradition of great food here that you don't find in any other Australian city."

Another restaurant opening that left Sydney in awe and finally affirmed the city’s arrival to the culinary world's centre stage was Jamie Oliver's Fifteen Melbourne. As much as the city's first class produce and appreciation of good food made an impact, it was also made partially due to a walk down the seedy suburb of St Kilda. Jamie had apparently never seen so many disadvantaged

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Couple dines alfresco at Campbells Winery, Rutherglen

Smoked trout, Black Spur Inn

Cheese platter at Buxton Ridge Winery

Bushwalking at Razorback

December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

45

LEISURE / travel

Terry Durack has the final word: Sydney has the glamour, seafood and modernity, but Melbourne has the detail, the interior life and the soul. See you there!

Flathead Fish and Chips from Victoria's Coastal Waters.

Photography: Katie Quinn Davies

Cheese from Victoria's High Country Photography: Katie Quinn Davies

Confit of ocean trout with ginger jus Serves 6 Ingredients 1l extra virgin olive oil 6 x 250g ocean trout or salmon fillets 4 tbsp finely sliced ginger 1 tbsp thinly sliced garlic 3 tbsp thinly sliced spring onions, white part only 250ml Chinese cooking wine 600ml chicken stock, reduced to 300ml 2 tbsp oyster sauce 2 tbsp light mushroom soy sauce 1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced 3 tbsp julienned spring onions, green part only Method 1 Fill a heatproof dish about 20x20 cm and at least 10 cm deep with the olive oil and heat to a temperature of 60C over low heat.

Add the trout and leave for ten minutes, or until fish is almost transparent. Remove the trout with a fish slice and place each fillet in the centre of a warm plate.

2 Take 3 tbsp of the olive oil used to cook the trout and put in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the ginger and fry (you need to hear the ginger sizzling) for one minute – the ginger should not become coloured at all. Add sliced garlic and fry for 30 seconds. Add the white spring onions and fry for 30 seconds.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2013

3

Add Chinese wine and reduce its volume over heat by two-thirds. Add the chicken stock, bring to the boil and whisk in the oyster and soy sauces. Add fennel and julienned green spring onion to the sauce and serve immediately, pouring over the trout.

Recipe by Shannon Bennett from 'My French Vue'.

street kids in the seaside suburb, a defining factor when selecting Fifteen's other locations of London, Cornwall and Amsterdam. True as he may have been, St Kilda, 7 kms from the centre of town, has also experienced an upheaval in recent years and turns on its charm in the warmer months.

Melburnians flock to the beachside suburb vying for its attention amongst travellers and backpackers to strut along the esplanade, push through the queues at the famous Acland Street cakes shops and wine and dine in the grungy establishments. Don‚Äôt be fooled however by the exterior of some of the venues, in particular Café di Stasio and Circa at the Prince. The fine dining restaurant is just one part of the Prince complex also featuring a boutique 5-star hotel, the Aurora Spa Retreat, hip Mink nightclub and the Prince of Wales pub below. Circa never fails to impress from the meticulously prepared food down to the comprehensive wine list.

Getting down to the heart and soul of Melbourne, visit the Queen Victoria Market where Vietnamese butcher callers compete with neighbouring Italian stall holders to get their 'deal of the day' sales. One of the few remaining cities in the world with an old school produce market in the heart of the business district, the colours, smells and sounds of the market resonate most days of the week. The market provides locals and tourists with the opportunity to buy the freshest produce and the tackiest souvenirs under one giant shed on top of Melbourne's oldest and now defunct cemetery.

The 130 year old market is home to over 9,000 former residents and you can see a memorial to the people buried at the site on the corner of Queen Street and Therry Street - but only once you've finished stuffing yourselves at the food stalls and in particular hot jam doughnuts!

Also don't miss the summer night market each Wednesday during the southern hemisphere's summer or the year round foodie's tour with a fully qualified market guide introducing you to some of the colourful specialist traders where you can pick up valuable hints in selecting produce while sampling the goods.

If you want to get right into the nitty gritty, take a step closer to the action with a quick train or cab ride to Footscray Market. Located in one of Melbourne's oldest suburbs, Footscray was and primarily still is home to the working class that built the city following the influx of immigrants in the sixties - truly a melting pot within a melting pot.

Melbourne, segregated to a degree with ethnic communities, was first considered to be the multicultural hub of Australia with the city receiving boatloads from Europe and China in the 19th century gold rush and again post World War Two, with many Italians and Greeks in particular.

Melbourne food writer Terry Durack explains, "Melbourne has always been a more democratic city than Sydney in which to dine, with a better middle range of restaurants and better value-for-money - due in part to our post-war Italian migrants and their café society."

A high concentration of ethnic communities living

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travel / LEISURE

DAY TRIPS Once you've conquered the city and its surrounds, a ninety minute drive in most directions will take you to some magnificent locations both humble and grand. The famed Great Ocean Road meanders along the west coast taking in the seaside towns of Anglesea, Lorne, Apollo Bay and Port Campbell where you'll stumble along the iconic Twelve Apostles rock formation just offshore.

Further north, Macedon Spa Country's lush countryside acquires its therapeutic qualities from Hepburn Springs while the high country unravels. Follow the Yarra River and you'll eventually be met by the cellar doors as the Yarra Valley takes in some of the state's most prized wineries. And, if you're after a costal journey, the Mornington Peninsula in the southeast never fails to dazzle.

Whichever direction you chose, you won't be disappointed. Each promises breathtaking views, an abundance of dining and grape grazing opportunities, arts of all kinds to entertain the young and the old and boutique hotels to lay your head at the end of it all.

Melbourne city lights by night in close proximity has meant traditional cooking techniques have been retained with quality at affordable prices maintained.

Because of this, Melbourne's inner suburbs can easily be identified by the strong presence of cultures lining its pockets. Home to the largest Greek speaking population outside of Greece, many decent souvalki shops can be found on any of Melbourne's high streets but in particular the best are Lonsdale Street in the centre.

Italians literally own Lygon Street, Carlton, with our very own mafia controlling who makes the pizza and pasta for the masses. Vietnamese make Richmond's Victoria Street straight out of Saigon while the obligatory Chinatown on Little Bourke Street is home to Melbourne's haute Chinese institution, the Flower Drum. Turks make up the most of Sydney Road, Brunswick and in recent years Ethiopian and Sudanese restaurants have carved out their own turf in the predominantly eastern influenced Footscray.

Tying the many elements amongst all this is one thing, the weather. It's a typical conversation starter as you can quite often expect four seasons in one day! Suits us as we have a hectic event calendar throughout the year and are not easily perturbed by bad weather. If you're thinking of following the masses and departing this glorious region just when things get hot you could cool off down south.

Sydney is a great stopover but Melbourne's got it made.

Terry Durack has the final word: "Sydney has the glamour, seafood and modernity, but Melbourne has the detail, the interior life and the soul."

See you there!

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Marinated feta and olive bread with cider from the Yarra Valley.

Photography: Katie Quinn Davies

Food at Jack Rabbit - Bellarine Peninsula Photography: Roberto Seba

The Dispensary Enoteca - Bendigo

December 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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LEISURE / the last word

Porcelain that changes taste Can the shape of the porcelain we eat from affect how food tastes? The Norwegian porcelain manufacturer Figgjo says it can and has launched three small products to prove it.

T

he idea is that the shape enhances or changes the experience of taste, says product development manager Constance Gaard Kristiansen about the new products Figgjo Sans. One of them meets the sweet and salty point on the tongue, one meets the sour and the last one meets all the points on the tongue at the same time. Figgjo Sans was designed by the Norwegian duo Marte Frøystad and Runa Klock who wondered why there were few alternatives to traditional cutlery and chopsticks.

“We began by asking ourselves if what we eat with and from can affect the experience of food.

Of course, the answer is yes! We wanted to create something you can hold and eat directly from and found our inspiration in the shape and size of the oysters. But what happens when the object meets the mouth?” explains Runa Klock. “We knew that wine glasses are designed to enhance the different flavours in wine by directing it to different parts of the tongue, so we started to experiment and see if we could achieve the same with food.”

The designers tried different varieties together with one of Norway's most renowned chefs, Even

Ramsvik from the restaurant Ylajali, eventually ending up with three different shapes. The narrow one meets the tip of the tongue where the sweet and salty zones are found, and enhances sweet taste. One is more open and balanced and the last one leads the contents to the sides of the tongue, where the sour taste is enhanced.

“In recent years it has been debated whether the tongue map is myth or reality,” says Kristiansen.

“Perhaps Figgjo Sans can give scientists a final answer.”

WHO’S FIGGJO? It’s a trendsetting porcelain manufacturer for the professional kitchen, known for being innovative. It has won a number of design awards in Norway and abroad.

Figgjo products are found in the most prestigious hotels and restaurants, canteens and institutions in Europe, the Middle East and Asia.

Madinat Jumeirah is one client.

“Many design objects come and go in kitchens and restaurants.

Some stay. These are the ones who in addition to being beautiful and functional also manage to enhance the taste experience.”

- Johan Laursen, Head Chef of Fru K at The Thief in Oslo.

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