Memphis Cork It 2012

The Napa Files

Identity Crisis

The Twomey Perspective

Holiday

Gift Ideas

MEMPHIS CHEF’S HOLIDAY

RECIPES

View Magazine Online www.MemphisCorkIt.com

Northern Italian

with a modern twist

Photos by StudioNorwood.com

- Great Atmosphere & Hand Selected Wines -

Monday - Saturday 4pm-til 2285 S. Germantown Rd. Germantown, TN 38138 901.753.4017



From the Publisher

Published by Memphis Cork It P.O. Box 31568, Knoxville, TN 37930 865.531.3941 Publisher Allison Jacob Allison@JMI.me Chief Contributor Chris Thorn Assistant Editor Elizabeth Jones Production Manager Karen Tobias

Dear fellow wine lover, I have been overwhelmed with the excitement over Cork it’s inaugural issue. The support of the wine community has been nothing short of humbling. I am very proud of our growth and the new ideas we are sharing with you in this issue.

Please notice the Napa Valley pages that are based on my first trip to the region; as my mom and I forged an even closer bond by sharing this experience with one other. We spent an exhilarating 7 days following maps and traveling back roads to bring you breathtaking photos and a unique glimpse into what it takes to actually produce wine; where it all starts with the grapes and the vines.

We also want you to make note of the Food and Wine Pairing pages, as we encourage you to seek different combinations of your favorites as well as make it easier for you to try unfamiliar choices.

Read and take the opportunity to attempt new things, even if it’s in your favorite restaurant. Challenge yourself!

We have brought you more local wine cellars, some grand and some modest. As we are welcomed into homes to poke around, sample, and question; we find an endless bounty of everyday people willing to share their passion and personal knowledge about wine; as we learn what motivates them to collect.

I could not have assembled such an amazing amount of information without the tremendous and unwavering help of Sommelier and Chief Contributor, Chris Thorn. He is the driving force and mastermind behind the content and technical aspects of what it takes to bring you accurate, informative, and exciting articles.

Lastly, I would love to hear from you. If you have any comments or suggestions; anything you want us to explore in these pages, please email me. And don’t forget to inform each wine professional you contact through the magazine that you saw them in Cork it! magazine.

Photographer Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia exclusive photographer for this issue ©2011 Jacob Marketing Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or graphic content in any manner without written permission of Jacob Marketing Inc. is strictly prohibited. All articles are property of Jacob Marketing, Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from Jacob Marketing, Inc is strictly prohibited. Photographs used in Cork It are provided and copyrighted by their respective owners and may not be reproduced without the owner’s permission. Jacob Marketing, Inc., dba Cork It, is not responsible for any errors, misprints, misquotes, or omissions. All rights reserved.

Visit Us Online At www.MemphisCorkIt.com Facebook @ Cork It Magazine Memphis

Don’t miss Memphis’ latest collaborative website, www.MemphisCorkIt.com, featuring every local wine event you don’t want to miss. Keep your schedule packed with tastings, dinners, and terrific charitable events around town.

See the magazine online and preview up and coming new advertisers in our area. Stay up-to-date with the latest wine and food related happenings on the blog!

On the cover: The Napa Files Identity Crisis The Twomey Perspective Holiday Gift Ideas Memphis Chef’s Holiday Recipes

4 Cor k It

Contents TAKE A LOOK INSIDE THIS ISSUE

Around Town

Around the Vine

Holidays

Columns

Side Bar

Wine Resources

Memphis Roots

Tasting Notes

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 5

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen

712 West Brookhaven Circle, Memphis TN 38117 (901) 347-3569 www.AndrewMichaelItalianKitchen.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia

2010 R. Talbott Kali Hart Chardonnay with Acorn Squash Salad At Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen we get excited when we find a pairing that seems so natural that it feels like the dish and the wine were made for each other, which is exactly how we feel about the pairing of the 2010 R. Talbott Kali Hart Chardonnay with our Acorn Squash Salad. We sous vide the acorn squash with the skin on to create two textures, a soft inside and firm bite to the skin. The squash is then chilled, allowing the sweetness of the vegetable to come through, complimented by the tropical fruit at the start of the chardonnay. The minerality and oaky flavors typical of Chardonnay blend well with the heat added by the cumin and the pepper from the arugula.

2009 Primarius Pinot Noir, Tortellini with freshly roasted corn, ricotta, and roasted garlic For our corn tortellini, we have chosen the 2009 Primarius Pinot Noir, a fantastic pinot out of Oregon. We stuff our tortellini with freshly roasted corn, ricotta, and roasted garlic, accentuated by the raspberry at the beginning of the Primarius Pinot Noir. The tortellini are served with duck, which we confit. We then roast the bones to make a duck stock, which becomes the base for the sugo. The hint of chocolate at the end of the Primarius stands up to the thick sauce without overpowering the delicate confit duck. Finally, the shredded chanterelles laced throughout the sugo and the earthy, Oregon Pinot Noir with its pepper and spice interweave beautifully.

Allegrini Valpolicella and Duck thigh For our Duck thigh, we had to go old school Italian wine, the Allegrini Valpolicella. We start the dish by braising the duck legs, the juice of which is used to make our sauce. The braised thigh, perfect for the fall, needs a wine with a juicy, lively body, just like the medium body found in the Allegrini. Our farrato, farro cooked in the risotto fashion, is deglazed with red wine and served al dente with glazed root vegetables. We love the smooth Allegrini with the dish. The freshness of the finish on this Valpolicella elevates the flavor of the pan sauce that we use to finish the duck.

6 Cor k It

AROUND TOWN www. MemphisCor kIt.com 7

ďƒœ

AROUND TOWN

Amerigo Farm to Fork Dinner Sept 26, 2011

8 Cor k It

AROUND TOWN



United Franciscan Meritage Blending Seminar: The Art of Blending Franciscan Magnificat Oct 20, 2011

What is Magnificat?

One of the first Meritage wines in 1985 - Magnificat is named for Bach’s piece written for 5 voices.

Dry, full-bodied, rich and complex with dark cherry, blackberry, and plums mixed with black tea and cocoa.

It is a blend of several varietals, and the pinnacle of our small lot program. The result achieves complexity, depth and balance, while reflective of its prime vineyard sources in Napa Valley and the vintage year.

Although the varietal percentages change with the nuances of each harvest, Magnificat always expresses the richness, vibrancy and supple texture of our vineyards.

No two vintages of Magnificat are alike. Each year, Director of Winemaking Janet Myers and her team, select from hundreds of small barrel-aged lots, to artfully craft the best blend possible. Although the varietal percentages change with the nuances of each harvest, Magnificat always expresses the richness, vibrancy and supple texture of our vineyards.

STORY OF MAGNIFICAT: At the time we made our first red Bordeaux blend, the law provided no suitable designation beyond mere “table wine,” a category that did not come close to expressing the quality of these traditionally crafted blends. So Agustin Huneeus then president of Franciscan (1985-1999), joined fellow vintners Joseph Phelps & Robert Mondavi in campaigning to create a new luxury designation and give California’s winemakers the freedom to make the best wines they could. The trio blazed across the country sharing bottles of red blends with labels that read “Wine Waiting for a Name.”

Magnificat Blending Seminar The Art & Experience of Blending: This seminar allowed participants to create their own red wine blend, combining education and entertainment—the best way to learn. Each person received a glass of each varietal that is selected to make the actual Magnificat blend: A blend of the classic five Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot Everyone also received a glass of Magnificat (current vintage): Franciscan Estate’s signature blend. We used the pipette we were given like a straw, extracting a percentage of each of the varietals from the sample glasses to make our own Magnificat blend to equal (100%). An everyday winemaking process used to make the finished product.

Our speaker, Michel Krevenas, walked us through the history of Franciscan Estate, history of Meritage, the winemaking process and a description of Bordeaux varietals and how these varietals make an incredible final wine.

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 9

Working Napa Map.pdf

1

5/26/11

12:47 PM

Places to visit in Napa Valley

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

10 Cor k It

Zoomeleir

AROUND TOWN



Oct 14, 2011

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 11

Arthritis Foundation Bone Bash / Blind Tasting Oct 29, 2011

12 Cor k It

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 13



AROUND TOWN

SRV S Aug 6, 2011

photos courtesy of SRVS

S

helby Residential and Vocational Services (SRVS) hosted its 13th annual fund raising event “Spirit of SRVS” on Saturday, August 6, at the Hilton Hotel in east Memphis. Called “A Taste of the Good Life” this event raises money to benefit SRVS’ Day Center for people with disabilities. This center is expanding its size and hopes to double the number of people it serves daily over the next five years. SRVS is one of the largest comprehensive service providers for people with disabilities serving 850 people in West Tennessee.

This year’s event consisted of a live and silent auction, Eddie Harrison on piano, food from 11 restaurants and spirits from 34 wine and beer houses. The crowd of over 700 people also helped to make this the best event ever. A record $120,000 was raised that night with Harrah’s Tunica winning ‘Best of Show’ and Bhan Thai restaurant winning ‘Best Appetizer”.

Bill Huddleston Remember; Drink well, but drink wise!

14 Cor k It

www.circamemphis.com

1912 Affordable dining in

MIDTOWN

MEMPHIS

243 So. Cooper at Peabody

901.722.2700

www.cafe1912.com Sun: 11:30 - 2:00 (brunch) ~~ 5:00 - 9:00 Mon - Thurs: 5:00 - 9:30 Fri - Sat: 5:00 - 10:30

901.746.9130 6150 Poplar Avenue Memphis, TN 38119

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 15

Whitehall Lane Winery and Vineyards

Winemaker - Dean Sylvester Hospitality & Retail Manager - Doug FitzGibbon Tasting Room - Jennifer Quilici

1563 St. Helena Hwy • St. Helena, CA 94574 • www.WhiteHallLane.com

Whitehall Lane is a family winery, sitting on 125 beautiful acres in St. Helena. We visited on a crisp morning during our trip and were greeted and toured by Jennifer Quilici. Whitehall Lane has quite a prestigious feel about it, without being stuffy. They use a combination of French, American, and Hungarian barrels in their winemaking process. All but the Pinot and Chardonnay grapes are estate grown. The Leonardini family has certainly developed a beautiful collection of varietals for us to drink and share.

WHAT WE TASTED: 2007 Reserve Cabernet Napa

2010 Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley

YUM!! The 2007 vintage is a big, ripe

This wine is bright and aromatic with hints of honeydew

Cabernet Sauvignon. The deep, rich color

and lime and a nuance of oak.

and enticing aromas give way to full-blown

Enjoy this wine with appetizers and light entrees, or as

fruit flavors. Elegance and power balance

a sipping wine.

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa

beautifully in this classic offering; the deep flavors of cassis, blackberry and raspberry

Merlot, Petite Verdot, Malbec

with the chewy, ripe tannins and sweet

The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon displays

toasty oak. The Malbec and Petite Verdot

graceful aromas of cherry, plum and

were added to the blend for complexity

vanilla. It has aromas of black cherry and

and flavor nuances. This is a wine to enjoy

toasty oak. On the palate, the wine is plush

through 2022.

with pleasing flavors of plum, blackberry

This 2007 bottling is the winery’s fifth vintage

and

to be sealed with the revolutionary glass

delicious from enticing aromas to the long,

closure, Vino-Seal™. This elegant alternative

smooth finish. These wonderful fruit flavors

to cork offers an ideal seal that allows the

balance beautifully with the soft structure

wine to retain its purity of flavor and aroma.

and

The wines sealed with this “glass cork”

balanced wine is ready to enjoy now, but

2008 Pinot Noir Carneros

continue to age beautifully.

This Pinot Noir is a joy to drink. It has a smokey nose and tastes even better with supple flavors of plum, black

creamy

oak.

lingering

finish.

Captivating

This

and

beautifully

worthy of aging for 5-7 years.

2007 Merlot Napa

cherry, and creamy oak. On the middle of the palate are ripe cherry, strawberry and toasty oak. Balanced

Blend with 10% Cabernet, 10% Syrah –

and smooth as Pinot should be.

One of my favorites!!

Can be enjoyed with a plethora of foods or as a

Tuscan Merlot, big fruit flavor – the grapes

sipper..

are grown on the property. The aromas

2008 Chardonnay Carneros This wine is well balanced with aromas and flavors of honeysuckle, tropical fruit, citrusy fruit and a hint of oak. It has a very long, flavorful finish that lingers.

Ideal for pasta and seafood dishes.

16 Cor k It

are somewhat exotic, melding spicy with notes of dark cherry and blackberry leaning to ripe plum and toasty oak. It gains pleasing mid-palate structure from the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Syrah adds complexity and balance through to the lengthy finish.

The Bourbon Identity

by Blake Hazlerig, Star Distributors

Bourbon is the true spirit of America. It is often associated with images of the Western Frontier, cowboys and saloons. Such an icon must be protected; federal law mandates the whiskey meet several major requirements to be called bourbon. The spirit must be made of a grain mixture that is at least 51% corn, distilled to no more than 160 proof and aged in new, charred oak barrels with no coloring added. Also, by law bourbon whiskey can be produced anywhere in the United States where it is legal to distill spirits. As the cocktail culture grows nationwide, micro-distilleries are popping up everywhere across the U.S. offering new interpretations of the spirit. Regardless of location, bourbon will always be associated with Kentucky. The Bluegrass State is known for its abundant limestone spring water and fertile soil both perfect for growing exceptional grain, it is a bourbon paradise.

Home to the most renowned bourbon producers, Kentucky distilleries craft over 95% of the world’s supply.

Bourbon whiskey derives its name from the original Bourbon County, which in 1786 covered most of what is now northeastern Kentucky but at that time was still part of Virginia. Steeped deep in this history for over two centuries is The Buffalo Trace Distillery. Named after herds of buffalo that carved out a gateway to the western half of American, the site of Buffalo Trace’s distillery has been producing whiskey for over two centuries. During the prohibition era, the federal government allowed the distillery to continue distillation for medicinal purposes.

In 1984, the distillery was the first to produce and market single barrel bourbon known as Blanton’s. Today the distillery continues to be an innovative market leader in the world of bourbon winning more awards since 1990 than any other North American distillery, earning more than 170 distinctions in national and international competitions including the 2008 “Distillery of the Year” award presented by The San Francisco World Spirits Competition. With brands such as Ancient Age, Old Charter, Eagle Rare, George T. Stagg and namesake Buffalo Trace, the distillery produces a broad range of bourbon unmatched.

Honig Vineyard & Winery

Michael Honig – President

850 Rutherford Road • Rutherford, CA 94573 • www.HonigWine.com

Hostess - Persis M. Johnson

Winemaker - Kristen Belair

Honig = Honey in German. 60 acre, family-owned property. Started in 1964 by Louis Honig, with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. In 1984, Louis’ grandson, Michael, took over the property after his grandfather’s death.

With diligent hard work and plenty of pride, Honig Sauvignon Blanc made its mark! Soon after, the Cabernet Sauvignon was produced in small amounts. Persis Johnson shared the Honig story with us today and shared many knowledgeable ideas on food pairings with Honig wines.

WE TASTED: 2010 Honig Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Rutherford New Release - only available at the winery.

They use only their grapes; French oak/steel.

YUM!! Melon, peach and orange blossom notes are complemented by citrus, grapefruit rind, key lime and a hint of nutmeg. Fruit forward, with a rich mid-palate accented by toasty oak, and a long, crisp, minerally finish.

Smooth..

2008 Honig Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc A rich dessert wine, with aromas and flavors of apricots, orange peel, clove, vanilla caramel, honey and beeswax. The finish is refreshing, with hints of lemon and grapefruit.

Persis loves to drizzle this over ice cream.

Yummy!

2008 Honig Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Uses grapes from all over the valley; American Oak barrels.

2006 Honig Cabernet Sauvignon Campbell Vine

Black cherry and blueberry fruit with hints of exotic spices are perfectly balanced by sweet oak. The palate is full and rich with moderate

100%

Cabernet

Sauvignon

from

the

Campbell family vineyard, on South Whitehall Lane in Rutherford. Black cherry, blueberry, dried herbs, cocoa, spice and a hint of peppermint, with a rich mid-palate, a long finish, and dusty tannins that will soften with bottle age.

Rutherford dust – steak pairing wine.

tannins and a long finish. Enjoyable now or can be cellared through 2016 and beyond.

Wine Bottle Sizes

Split Bottle: 187 ml = fourth of a standard bottle size Half Bottle: 375 ml = half the standard bottle size Standard Bottle: .75 liter Magnum: 1.5 liters = two standard bottles Double Magnum: 3 liters = 4 standard bottles Jeroboam or Rehoboam : 4.5 = 6 standard bottles Methuselah or Imperial: 6 liters = 8 standard bottles Salmanazar: 9 liters = 12 standard bottles or 1 case Balthazar: 12 liters = 16 standard bottles Nebuchadnezzar: 15 liters = 20 standard bottles Melchior: 18 liters = 24 standard bottles or 2 cases Soverign or Goliath: 27 liters = 36 standard bottles or 3 cases

COLUMNS “Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing�

-Ernest Hemingway, Death in the Afternoon Local Experts let loose opinions and facts alike, offering you a multi-faceted view of their world of wine. A window into the minds on the other side of the industry

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 21



COLUMNS

NW

by Billy Huddleston, Southwestern Distributing

SW

>> Unlike California whose wine making history goes back for some 300 years, Washington is basically in its infancy when it comes to wine.

The state started out growing fruits, vegetables and hops. Wine is only about 125 to 150 years old. Major wine production as we know it has only been in full swing since the 1960’s when Charles Nagel started making wines from grapes planted by Dr. Walter Clore; the father of Washington’s premium wine grape business.

Because of this, there are not many 2nd and 3rd generation wine making families native to Washington. Most of the winemakers are transplants from either California or from overseas.

One such wine maker is a man whom I’ve known for over 50 years.

Ron Bunnell, owner of Bunnell Family Cellars and River Aerie Winery, is a local who grew up in the North Memphis area near Kingsbury High School. He studied at UT and Memphis State and was interested in plant ecology; he ended up in California where he became interested in wine. He studied vineyard management, but got sidetracked and earned his degree in winemaking from UC Davis and got an MBA from Sonoma State University. Ron worked for Kendall-Jackson, Beringer and Chateau Souverain in California. He had to come back to Memphis for a while to take care of family business and worked for the Victor Robilio Company for a couple of years.

After leaving Memphis, he left for Washington and eventually went to work for Chateau Ste. Michelle. There he was over the production of red wines. He became interested in Syrah while at Kendall-Jackson and that led him to look at what this grape could do in Washington. He said that Cabernet and Merlot grow extremely well in Washington of a cycle of 8 out of every 10 years, whereas Syrah does very well every year in the high plains of eastern Washington.

With Cabernet and Merlot you have to wait until the grape vines reach 8 or 10 years to produce good fruit. Syrah provides wine producing fruit in 3 or 4 years. After about 5 years he left Ste. Michelle to open his own winery, located just 100 yards from his home overlooking the Yakima River.

Ron believes that the AVAs of Red Mountain, Yakima, Horse Heaven Hills and the Wahluke Slope are going to be the great areas for Syrah and other Rhone varietals (Grenache, Mourvedre, Viognier).

Ron and his wife, Susan, also own a restaurant and bar ( Wine O’clock wine bar) in Prosser, Wash. where they live. They have a tasting room there in the wine bar and as such, this is a must go to when you are in the Washington wine country.

Bunnell Cellars’ wines are made at his home winery in Prosser. His River Aerie wines are made in another location with grapes he purchases from vineyards that he manages. This line is a value oriented line running from $12 to $18, where the Bunnell line usually runs in the high $30 to mid $40 range.

Some wines to try: Bunnell Syrah Wahluke slope Clifton Hill 2007 - big, ripe with structured tannins…black cherries Bunnell Syrah Boussey McPherson2007 - softer with big ripe cherry flavors Bunnell Syrah Horse Heaven Hill Syrah 2007 - full bodied, black with smoke and tar Bunnell VIF 2007 - a blend of 3 grapes, with black pepper and spice Bunnell A’Pic 2008 - a blend of 5 grapes loaded with tar and coffee flavors All these wines will be great for another 10 years.

Remember; Drink well, but drink wise!

22 Cor k It

COLUMNS

L

et’s establish a benchmark for the simultaneous rise and demise of Pinot Noir in America; the year was 2004. By this point, I think it’s fair to assume that most everyone has seen Sideways; Hollywood’s, perhaps unintentional, declaration on the state of wine and wine culture in America. Though that is certainly not the focus of the script, nor is this intended to be a critique of the film, the subplot circumventing California’s emerging wine culture is arguably the most remembered of the film and a loose correlation can be drawn between the public’s response and the trend of production and quality of Pinot Noir.



Identity Crisis

by Andrew Fischer

Yes, it’s true; Merlot deserved a good smack in the face. At the time, Merlot producers were riding the tide of the good days when Merlot was one of the most recognizable grapes in America and producers profited beyond belief. They increased productivity to satiate demand and across the board were churning out volumes of mediocre to sub par flabby Merlot; anyone remember the white Merlot craze? Merlot lost itself and in turn fell from favor.

The minute it was publicly humiliated, the general wine public turned it’s back, eradicated from memory and left this beloved grape plucked from the vine on the vineyard floor to rot. Across the country in California, Oregon, Washington, and elsewhere, growers began ripping out crops to make room for Pinot Noir grapes; the grapes Miles lushed over with animated fanfare; an unspoken gem of the wine world.

The problem was, Pinot Noir was ushered in on a pedestal for the wrong reasons; thought to be everyone’s cash cow. Pinot Noir’s reputation precedes it, perceived as somewhat effeminate with reserved austere, it’s difficult to cultivate properly and is very finicky on and off the vine leaving it tasked only for the most skilled of winemakers. Yet how is it that most every producer these days is able to showcase some version of Pinot Noir in their portfolio? It’s heard all the time, “this is our version, our playful take on Pinot Noir” and that’s fine to some degree as long as the end result still resembles something similar to Pinot Noir; unfortunately the majority of them have fallen suit to the same identity crisis that Merlot had succumb too. Vintners are planting Pinot Noir in places it shouldn’t be planted and have abandoned the craft in favor of producing juice quickly to bottle and get into the market.

The problem is no one can decide what they’re trying to make or mimic, intentionally stretching the definition of Pinot Noir. The end result is this huge sect of wine being passed on as Pinot Noir that has ultimately bastardized the expression of the grape. For the consumers we get to be the guinea pigs.

Wineries have slapped on flashy labels, noted some region or vineyard specific designation, and given us exactly what we’ve asked for. After producing enough of these styles and getting them into the consumer’s hands over the years, we’ve ultimately changed the perception of what Pinot Noir should be into something it’s not. Of course there is great Pinot Noir out there, those that respect the craft and continuously produce great wine true to the varietal year after year. You just have to know where to look and know what you’re looking for.

photo by Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC

This film single-handedly crushed Merlot sales in the United States. Growers sat upon acres of land planted with one of the once noble grapes and ripped them up in favor of planting the next big thing, what people were asking for, Pinot Noir. But why were people asking for Pinot Noir all of a sudden? It’s one of the world’s oldest varietals and has been the trophy of regions like Burgundy, France, but oh yeah, we hadn’t really Americanized it yet, and it took Hollywood to make us aware of the supple delicate nature of Pinot Noir idealized by Paul Giamatti’s character (Miles) in this film. His infatuation arguably brought Pinot Noir to the forefront of American wine drinkers.

Andrew Fischer, General Manager, Amerigo

“The problem is no one can decide what they’re trying to make or mimic, intentionally stretching the definition of Pinot Noir. The end result is this huge sect of wine being passed on as Pinot Noir that has ultimately bastardized the expression of the grape.”

No one knows what the future of Pinot Noir holds and there has been a buzz around Hollywood about reigniting the Sideways franchise with a Sideways 2. It begs the question, what will the writers go after next and consequently what other varietal will be heralded for our consumption and catapulted to treacherous fame?

IDENTITY CRISIS www. MemphisCor kIt.com 23



COLUMNS Wine is a unique yet ever more ubiquitous beverage. From the less than

Join the Club

by Michael Hughes

complex that is poured in glasses at big parties to the bottles brought out to share at dinners it seems that wine has firmly ensconced itself in our daily repertoire. It’s a truly exciting time for the wine scene in Memphis.

But how does one navigate through the sea of wine washing over us from regions all over the world? It may seem a bit intimidating to the average wine drinker. One of the best ways to explore the world of wine (aside from first finding a wine professional you trust and who makes you feel comfortable) is to join a wine club. Now I’m not talking about the kind of wine club that is merely an excuse to sit around, gossip and swill back loads of innocuous Pinot Grigio. While there is always a time and place for that; those types of “wine clubs” are by no means a way of educating yourself or increasing your curiosity. Find a wine club that a local retailer offers and inquire about the type of selections they choose.

Ask about what else members receive such as a discount, special tasting notes or emails. Make sure it’s within your price range. Don’t ask to join the club with conditions such as “I only like reds” or “Don’t give me anything that’s not heavy with tannins”. Open your mind and leave all that other noise behind you. To truly explore wine the “comfort zone” has to be completely done away with. What would be the point of joining a wine club that pushed the same old tired pedestrian wines from the same regions every month? Be open to anything they choose. Keep in mind that you aren’t going to like every selection and that doesn’t mean that particular bottle is bad. It just means that YOU don’t like it.

That is never the point of any given wine club. The point is to sample wines that you yourself would have never selected on your own. This will hopefully showcase that there is a whole wide world of wine out there to choose from and there is no excuse to get stuck in a rut. Put the same old boring California red that you buy every week down, join the club and try something new and exciting. It’s not enough just to be a member of said wine club. Take the opportunity to ask questions. Take advantage of your access to that store’s knowledge, insight and specialties. And please don’t just quit that club just because you don’t like white wines or because you only like Australian Shiraz or for any reason. The wine

photo by Maggie McLendon

racism has got to stop. So you’ve had a few chardonnays that you didn’t care for or you’ve only had Rieslings that were sweet. Those few that you disliked are by no means representative of all the rest. That is the very definition of prejudice and it has no place in wine or in life in general.

A good wine club will introduce its members to styles of wines, grape types or regions that members previously might have only thought of in a negative way. That’s the beauty of it. You can discover some of the best wines when allowing yourself to be open and receptive. For example, Michael Hughes, General Manager Joe’s Wine and Liquor

“One of the best ways to explore

take the much maligned Riesling and Gewurztraminer grapes.

The

collective American viewpoint is that these noble grape types produce wine that is “too sweet” which is a falsehood. All across Alsace, Germany, Austria, Washington and Oregon are many examples of dry styles of wines made with these grapes. But that’s not the point. It’s not an argument

the world of wine is to join a

of sweet vs. dry. It’s about quality and any given wine’s place at the

wine club. ”

types a few times. The response has been overwhelmingly positive. I’m

table. One wine club I know of in particular has showcased both grape not saying that in an “I told you so” sort of a way....well perhaps a little.

More importantly the point is that the only way to truly experience and learn about wine, which ultimately leads to greater enjoyment, is to be completely open. There are few better ways to do so than through a wine club membership. Each month you don’t know what will be showcased.

It could be a red blend from the Vacqueryas region of France’s Rhone Valley or perhaps a Friulano from Italy, maybe a Gruner Veltliner or Pinot Blanc from Oregon. hey may be wineries you’ve never heard of, from regions you never knew about or grapes you don’t even know how to pronounce. Regardless of what those bottles are I hope they will make you that much more curious about wine.

24 Cor k It

•

COLUMNS



They Might Know a Thing or Two

by Mike Sanford, Assistant Manager, Cheers Wines and Spirits

I

was recently out at a downtown restaurant that garnered its reputation on food & wine pairings and got to do something that I love to do. I put my palate in the hands of another. I simply told her what entrée I was in the mood for and the degree of doneness and let her run with the wines for the evening.

She hit it … spot on. I was very happy and tell this brief story to make a point; there is quite an experienced, knowledgeable crew in our community.

In Memphis and the surrounding areas, there are many wine aficionados who work in restaurant and retail businesses that probably earn the same or less than you. However, they have been exposed to many good or great wines and know what “good” is supposed to taste like (and more importantly, what isn’t good). These budget-minded “wine snobs” are an excellent source of information for a few reasons. First, they know great wines and are always on the look-out for “sleeper” wines that are drinking under value. Second, due to experience and opportunity, they are a wonderful source for pairing wines with food.

And third, they are very good at offering alternative choices.

“I mention alternative choices for good reason.

Many patrons find a wine they enjoy and unfortunately only choose that particular wine when there are literally dozens of other choices they will really enjoy. “ After several years in the wine business, I’ll take this point one step further. “I’ve found that the more wine experience a person gains, the more willing they are to ask for other recommendations. Wines available are plentiful and diverse. Asking advice about wines from someone who has education and experiences different than your own indicates a level of intelligence and more importantly a willingness to learn and diversify.”

good friend and an even better customer.

When I first met him at the store, we struck up a conversation about what he enjoyed in his current selections. I was able to take that information and make several suggestions that he, his wife and friends wound up loving.

Today, he has a truly world-class collection of wines and a palate to appreciate them. I tell this story for this simple reason; wherever you shop for or enjoy wines, build a relationship with someone in that store or restaurant who knows your likes and dislikes. That person more than likely tastes upwards of twenty or so wines each week that you’ll probably never see. Their selection of wines for retail stores and restaurants is based on what their regular customers and friends will enjoy.

In my new location at Cheers Wines & Spirits, I look forward to again building great relationships with new friends and customers based on something we all enjoy…WINE!

I recall a few years ago when I met one particular gentleman who turned into a

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 25



COLUMNS

Where to Buy Wine Online The Top Eight Wine Ecommerce Sites for Unique and Interesting Wines

by Jeff Lefevere

Being a wine lover in the state of Tennessee requires more than a little political acumen just to keep up with the machinations in Nashville and evolving state laws. Thankfully, we’re making positive progress in having access to wines not just on the shelf, but also available online.

On June 4, 2009 wine lovers across Tennessee rejoiced when former Governor Phil Bredesen signed Senate Bill 166 into law.

Buying wine directly from a winery and having it shipped to your doorstep suddenly became a possibility. In May of this year, the entire state opened for winery shipping with the signing of Senate Bill 1030 making all counties “wet” for direct-toconsumer winery shipping.

Adjoining the issue of winery direct shipping is online wine retailer shipping which is a bit murkier subject. Online wine retailers generally caveat that all transactions take place in the state where they do business and provide shipping as a customer service, passing the legal responsibility of the receipt of wine onto the purchaser. The shipping companies like UPS and FedEx end up being complicit in the transaction provided the delivery is signed for by an adult 21 years of age or older.

The good news is that in addition to wineries, nearly all wine retailers’ ship to Tennessee.

Depsite all of this newfound availability to buy wine online, sales still remain a very small percentage of overall wine sales for the wine industry, but that’s changing, principally led by fast-growing “Flash” wine sites that offer one or two great wine deals a day (see www.lot18.com). This rising tide in online wine ecommerce is doing a whole lot of good for the future of online wine retailing and a number of proverbial boats will be lifted in the process.

Many of these boats will emerge from niches offering a personalized touch. Big online wine retailers and flash sites notwithstanding, the following is my top eight list of the most compelling niche wine sites (read: neither the biggest nor the cheapest, but driven by a passion for interesting wines with compelling service) to buy from this fall and holiday season, the guys (and gals) likely to benefit from growth in online wine sales.

26 Cor k It

COLUMNS



>> Tastingroom.com What’s to like: Utilizing a proprietary process, Tastingroom.com bottles and sells sample size wine from notable wineries in 50ml bottles, about the serving size of a pour at a winery tasting room. While that alone is novel, the real benefit is consumers have an opportunity to buy mixed sampler packs to try a number of different wines at home, at their leisure. Part of becoming a certified wine nut is the desire to taste wine more so than drink wine, satisfying an inveterate curiosity. This site lets you do exactly that, at extremely reasonable prices.

Where to buy: www.tastingroom.com >> Plonk Wine Merchants What’s to like: Besides the elegantly designed, easy to navigate and information-rich web site, Plonk Wine Merchants is also a carefully curated selection of offbeat and affordable wines (all under $30) from around the world. If you’re an intrepid wine explorer who knows that Garnatxa is Catalan Spanish for Grenache or that Blaufränkisch from Austria can be mighty tasty, then Plonk is for you. It’s a bonus that the customer service is impeccable and owner Etty Lewensztain is a one-woman operation who will include a quick thank-you note complete with a smiley face with your shipment.

Where to buy: www.plonkwinemerchants.com >> Half Wit Wines What’s to like: In my opinion, the most oft-ignored wine size is the half-bottle, also known as a “375” or a “split.” It’s the best format for trying wines that, in full bottle size, may outreach our spending threshold or sense of experimentation. Half Wit Wines fills this segment in the market by offering only half bottles. What the sites lacks in aesthetics and finesse it makes up with a broad selection of over 1200 wines that includes everything from California Cabs to Israeli red blends.

Where to buy: www.halfwitwines.com >> Chambers Street Wines What’s to like: The essence of a careful selection that reflects a point of view, Chambers Street has a sphere influence that far outreaches its lone location in New York City. Champions of small, artisanal wines from around the world, you can be assured that a wine from Chambers Street will speak to you as unique, interesting, mostly natural and NOT available at the local wine warehouse.

It’s a bonus that NYC is a hyper-competitive wine market because Chambers Street prices, despite the small production of their wines on offer, are reasonable. It’s my go-to spot for German Riesling and wines that make my heart sing like a good Barbaresco.

Where to buy: www.chambersstwines.com >> Crushpad Wines What’s to like: Based on a six- year blitz of PR and online advertising, many wine enthusiasts are familiar with Crushpad wines, a California-based company that makes winemaking accessible to the everyman with a few thousand dollars and a dream. Less familiar is the actual output of these passionate wine arrivistes who bring their winemaking efforts to market in true small lot fashion, often a barrel at a time (about 25 cases of wine). Crushpad Commerce is a fantastic resource for buying wines that not only have a story behind them, but, literally, may never be seen again. I’ve had a Crushpad produced Pinot Noir for Thanksgiving that was transcendental and a Syrah that made me a believer in the forsaken varietal. Crushpad Commerce should be on any online wine shoppers’ link list.

Where to buy: www.crushpadwine.com/sell/brands >> Canadian Wine Shoppe What’s to like: the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia is getting the PR lightening, but the Niagara Peninsula is bringing the thunder. There’s a lot to like about Canadian wine that 10 years hence will be reaching broader consumer awareness. You’re well advised to get in early on the quality that is coming from Southern Ontario. There’s a purity of expression in the cool climate New World wine that is mind-bending. The rub is Canadian wines are nigh on impossible to find anywhere but online. Canadian Wine Shoppe solves that problem.

Where to buy: www.canadianwineshop.com >> Accidental Wine Company What’s to like: A bruised label, a bumped foil cap, some smudging on the bottle, a vintage a year or two old, whatever. I don’t care. It’s what’s inside that counts. Not so with regular wine consumers who aren’t as in-tune as you and me. Regular Joe’s routinely forsake the bumped, bruised and less than au courant for the pristine. That’s where Accidental Wine Company comes in.

Think of it as a scratch and dent sale for wine, except the content is still pristine. Accidental purchases wines that, for one reason or another, isn’t easily sellable by wine retailers. Let fickle consumerism be your friend and pick-up a closeout from these good guys.

Where to buy: www.accidentalwine.com >> Wine Monger It was a dogfight for the eight slot, and I seriously considered Marketview Liquor because they’re my go-to for Finger Lakes Riesling while offering seamless service, but Wine Monger wins out because my point is to present online wine shops with something uniquely personal to say. Wine Monger started out as a seller of Austrian wines, but has slowly expanded to Italy and a very small sub-set of California wines. More than anything, like Chambers Street Wines, they represent a point of view—small, artisanal, family-owned wines. Austria is a small wine producing country with varietals that, in the paraphrased and truncated words of William Burroughs, will make you see God. Italy is the largest wine producing country in the world and couched within that is the unique. California is the New World pinnacle with tiny producers waiting for mind share from an appreciative audience. Wine Monger shows you the small guys worth noticing.

Where to buy: www.winemonger.com

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 27



COLUMNS

THE SPANISH Expedition

BY MARNE ANDERSON Victor L Robilio Company

Ebano “Black Cube” Winery

H

ola, Buenas Dias! In the last issue we wrote about the wines

most impressed with the quality and staff. Oh, about the wines. In

of Spain from the perspective of those who have studied,

the Ribera del Duero we visited two of the Alejandro Fernandez

and consumed, Spanish wines. Now, however, we can continue

properties, Pesquera and Condado de Haza, both traditional

that theme from a different perspective. We have just returned

estates. As with most of Spain’s wine regions reds predominate

from a fantastic wine trip stretching from Madrid to Barcelona,

with Tempranillo being the grape of choice. It is difficult to not

concentrating on three of Spain’s main wine regions: Ribera del

compare it to the Sangiovese grape of central Italy. The wines

Duero (DO - Castilla), Rioja (DOC- La Rioja), and Priorat (DOQ –

have a distinctive flavor profile that is an indication of their

Catalunya). It is hard to talk about Spain’s wine industry without

particular terroir and the fact that they are aged predominantly

considering its’ recent development. From the outset it was

in barrels of American Oak. These wines are readily available

apparent to us that Spain’s wine culture was paralleling that

at reasonable prices. In contrast we visited Ebano (ebony),

of Napa Valley in some years past. It should be noted that most

a stark modern black cube building in the middle of a soon-

of the major wineries are less than 30 years old. Until the 1990’s

to-be-planted vineyard. Although the winery itself is new, this

the Spanish wine market was mainly internal to Europe with little

winemaker has been

being exported across the pond. Then the visionaries realized

their existing 43 hectares of vines. The most memorable wine

they truly had a product that could stand up to the best the rest

was the Ebano 6 (available in the U.S. at around $20 a bottle.)

producing excellent Tempranillo from

of the world had to offer.

We then made the very short trip to La Rioja to try examples The Spanish government was instrumental in spreading the word

of some of the best DOC wines in Spain. These wines become

about this industry and many with a dream began to update

a bit heavier and more developed. The grape of choice is still

or build wineries. If you think about the artistic tendencies of

Tempranillo but the climate changes (closer to the Iberian

this country (Dali, Miro, etc.) you will realize they have always

Mountain

been highly visual and modernistic. This is very evident in the

produce richer and more complex wines. We visited Solaguen,

new wineries that have been built, and even the hotels that are

a cooperative owned by 150 people started in 1964. They

being created to handle the wine tourists. It was impossible to

produce Montebuena Rioja, a

travel very far without seeing a fantastic avant garde bodega

retails for $12 a bottle - an incredible value. Then on to Roda, a

or hosteleria. Of course there are still the traditional wineries but

winery started in 1987 by a Catalan couple who had extensive

the number of modern ones was truly staggering, with some

backgrounds in food and wine. The centerpiece of this winery is

wineries opening their own hotels. We stayed at the Hotel de

a unique malolactic fermentation room, the first of its kind in the

Pesquera by Alejandro Fernandez, who owns Tinta Pesquera,

world. The light-filled hall houses 1,000 casks which are kept at

Condado de Haza, Dehesa la Granja, and EI Vinculo and were

68˚F by controlling the floor temperature through radiant heat

28 Cor k It

system)

and

differing

winemaking

techniques

90 point Parker wine which

COLUMNS

ďƒœ

to induce fermentation with no movement of air. Special capsules on the bottles are color-coded to reflect red fruit or black fruit flavors of each particular cask as determined by an on-going tasting process by the winemaker. Modeled after fine Bordeaux, these wines are elegant and balanced. Roda Reserva 2004 retails at about $50 a bottle. A last special treat in La Rioja just outside of Logrono was Bodegas Cerrolaza.

Under the supervision of a very talented young female winemaker named Soraya Martinez they are producing excellent wines at reasonable prices. The knockout was Aticus (named for Atticus Finch), a crianza (aged for 2 years, with at least 6 months in oak) made from vines averaging 25 years old. It retails for around $18 a bottle.

Recommended Links hotelpesquera.com

We then took a break to travel across the most stunning landscape to the town of Lerida (Lleida in Catalan.) From here we explored the Priorat region. Three young Spanish wine geeks decided to try to make wine in the most inhospitable place in the country. Rocky soil, highly mountainous (Montsant Mountain Range) with very little infrastructure to support any industry, the odds were stacked against them. Named for a Carthusian Priory (priorato), the monks had grown their own grapes but these vineyards had been either let go or produced very poor grapes. After much investment there are 9 villages in this small area that now produce DOQ (Catalan for DOC) wines with

valillach.com Recommended Wines Roda, Reserva, Rioja $50 Ebano Vinedos y Bodegas, Ebano 6, Ribera del Deuro $20 Montebuena, Rioja $12 Bodegas Alto de Marques, Aticus, Crianza, Rioja $18

most villages having populations of less than 1000. We visited Vall Llach in a town called Porrera with 482 residents. No modern winery here, just two decrepit buildings, bought 20 years ago, refurbished to press and ferment the wine in the garage area, age in barriques on three different levels in a building across the town square; the wine is pumped through 150 yards of hose that goes through the square and over the river, and into the barriques, done at night to reduce traffic disruption, and bottled and packaged back in the first building. The second winery, Mas Sinen near the town of Poboleda is an example of a true family business run by a couple and their two daughters. Having bought a destroyed house in the middle of nowhere (30 minute drive down a one lane dirt road from the city with power/water provided by their own systems), surrounded by less than five acres of grapes, they rebuilt it as a fully functioning bodega with an underground aging area. With 6 stainless tanks, about 10 large plastic tubs and one press, Salvador and Conxita Burgos work the land, make, and market the wine.

The wines of Priorat are special, aged longer than most Spanish wines they are deeper, richer, more tannic and quite muscular. Designed to age for 10 - 20 years they approach all the richness of a great Bordeaux.

Grapes are predominantly Garnacha and Carinena although some wineries are also blending Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. There are a few whites made from Viognier but these are rare and not produced every year. Priorat wineries are all small and vineyard area is not a major factor: vines per hectare is important. Yields are low. This coupled with the fact that Priorat is the only other wine region besides Rioja to gain the DOQ / DOC qualification means these wines are highly desirable as well as somewhat pricey. For anyone contemplating a wine trip anywhere in Europe you could not do better than to consider Spain. Great economy, fantastic food, wonderful scenery, great wines, and, above all, the nicest and most friendly people on the Continent.

And, lest you think they are only concerned with Spanish wines here, we found a small wine shop in the walled city of Laguardia with a wine selection that would rival any in the world. Truly something for any wine lover’s bucket list. (top RH) Priorat Vineyards, Modern Rioja Winery

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 29

Auberge du Soleil Restaurant 180 Rutherford Hill Road • Rutherford, CA 94573 www.AubergeDuSoleil.com

For many, the name Auberge du Soleil connotes cuisine first, with the inn of the same name a delightful afterthought. Indeed, Auberge du Soleil began as a Napa Valley restaurant created by visionary restaurateur Claude Rouas more than 30 years ago. Since then, Auberge has maintained its legacy as a culinary destination, where innovative menus inspired by the bounty of Napa Valley are paired with wine in ways that delight and inspire longtime devotees.

One of the first great Wine Country establishments, the Restaurant at Auberge du Soleil pays tribute to its legacy with an award-winning menu and wine list. Executive Chef Robert Curry’s inspired cuisine reflects the natural diversity and rich ingredients of California’s Napa Valley and draws from regional produce, accented with Mediterranean flavors. Wine Director Kris Margerum’s wine list, the largest and most extensive in the valley, showcases the very best from neighboring vineyards.

The Restaurant at Auberge du Soleil features rich interiors accented with abstract paintings, exposed beams and warm wood furnishings.

Tables on the famous terrace are some of the best and most sought-after in Napa Valley where one can enjoy panoramic views of the neighboring vineyards and stunning sunsets. The adjacent Bistro & Bar, in a relaxed contemporary style, is an inviting setting in which to sip a cocktail by the fire, dine on lighter fare al fresco or enjoy one of the 40 wines served by the glass.

30 Cor k It

Jim’s Place Grille

3660 S. Houston Levee Road Suite 112, Collierville, TN 38017 (901) 861-5000 www.JimsPlaceGrille.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia

Filet Kabobs with sautéed vegetables and spaghetti squash with Grecian Marinara & Marchesi di Barolo 2004 This is kind of backwards, as we went with this wine selection first, this Barolo is just now coming into its own with hints of smoke, granite, and a little cherry with darker fruit playing very soft in the background.

The elegance that has developed makes a nice pairing with the purity of the meat and accented by the light marinade of cotton seed oil, pale dry sherry, fresh garlic and fresh oregano. The texture and sharpness of the veggies is offset by the subtle power the wine still carries, tannins are present but, barely noticeable. What really tops this off is the Grecian marinara; the tomato acid and smokiness are literally perfect with this wine, a testament to regional foodstuffs.

Grilled Atlantic salmon glazed with soy, rice wine and crushed red pepper over a slaw of Napa cabbage, carrots and almonds & Mer Soleil 2008 With all the flavors present in this dish there is a myriad of options both red and white to pair, however looking at the slightly more exotic nature of the slaw and hints of sweetness in the glaze, we had to go with this Chardonnay. Aromas of citrus and pineapple are immediately appealing and as it enters the mouth the richness is a wonderful compliment to the salmon with the vanilla, lemon curd, and coconut flavors bringing to life the glaze and the hidden almonds, there is a little oak that adds a brand new back note to the entire dish, absolutely wonderful.

901-861-5000

3660 South Houston Levee Road, Suite 112 Collierville, TN 38017

···

www.jimsplacegrille.com management@jimsplacegrille.com You can also find us on facebook- Jim’s Place Grille.

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 31

DATE: 10/17/11

CDBZ1412995

SIZE: 8.25 X 5.43

C-14799

TRADE IRC ITEM NPR - SM

DO NOT PRINT DIELINE RND1

Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2011 Clos du Bois, Geyserville, California

From the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel – 102 years of quality and excellence across 5 generations.

“The 2009 Perrin et Fils Côtes du Rhône Villages ratchets up the intensity level. A blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, it exhibits a deep ruby/purple hue, black cherry, black currant, lavender, pepper and Provençal herb characteristics, medium body, pure fruit, silky tannins and no hard edges.

Enjoy it over the next 2-3 years.

This is exactly what I’m talking about when I say a product must ‘over-deliver’.”

89+ points

Vineyard Brands | Birmingham, AL | www.vineyardbrands.com

32 Cor k It

Jean-Pierre, François, Matthieu, Pierre, Marc and Thomas Perrin

Farmstead Restaurant 738 Main Street • St. Helena, CA

www.longmeadowranch.com/Farmstead-Restaurant

Farmstead Restaurant is situated on the 650-acre property of historic Long Meadow Ranch, nestled high atop the Mayacamas Mountains above the Napa Valley. The ranch produces award-winning wines and handcrafted extra virgin olive oils - as well as grass-fed beef, eggs, and heirloom fruits and vegetables.

Farmstead Restaurant is housed in a former nursery barn and has seating for over 100 guests. They are a casual, culinary hub revolving around a central open kitchen with booth and central seating, community dining, and a full bar.

They showcase the seasonal, ingredient-driven American farmhouse cooking of executive chef Stephen Barber. He features an authentic farmto-table menu highlighting local, sustainable and organic ingredients at their peak freshness, which are sourced from local purveyors.

Stephen emphasizes a wood-burning element for select dishes, including wood roasted grass fed marrow bones with beet and parsley salad; wood grilled Pacific Cod with house made sausage, clams and potatoes; and brick-roasted Petaluma chicken with flageolet beans, greens and lemon. His kitchen is also outfitted with a plancha, a cast-iron grill, ideal for searing Long Meadow Ranch’s healthy, tender, and flavorful grass-fed beef.

The wine program at Farmstead restaurant features Long Meadow Ranch’s elegant and balanced wines, as well as other domestic and international wines selected by Chris Hall to complement the restaurant’s American farmhouse cooking.

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 33

MEMPHIS ROOTS “A bottle of wine begs to be shared; I have never met a miserly wine lover�

-Clifton Fadiman, NY Times 8 Mar 1987 A journey through our local heroes of the vine, a chance to see the people who have made Memphis proud as Oenophiles, a hint of insight into the minds that mold the local wine scene and keep our glasses full.

34 Cor k It

MEMPHIS ROOTS



Mike Drash Interview

Winemaker Mike Drash, a Memphis native

1. What got you into Wine making?

A bit of a long story, but here we go. I graduated from Rhodes College in 1991 with a degree in Anthropology/Sociology and wasn’t sure what I wanted to do. A few months later I moved to Key West, FL and soon found myself working in one of the top restaurants in the Keys. They had a solid wine list and the manager took some liberties to try some better wines on the list. I got hooked and decided I wanted to get into Winemaking. The problem was I had no idea how to go about it.

My last day in Key West I met someone who had just worked a harvest at Deloach Vineyards in Sonoma County. She gave me the phone number of Randy Ullom at DeLoach and I gave him a call.

He told me to come on out and he’d give me a job. So I did and the rest is history…

2. Tell us where you are from?

I was born in Alabama but spent 14+ years in Memphis, so I consider it to be my home. I still have a hard time calling the Tigers The University of Memphis! It will always be Memphis State to me.

3. What influences from your hometown would you consider to be contributing factors to your style of wine making? (what you ate, what you drank, friends, family, restaurants) Soul, I’m a white kid from Memphis who has rhythm and soul. My 5 year old daughter thinks I’m a great dancer, Ha, Ha! Seriously, You can learn winemaking from a book or you can get your hands dirty and feel what the vineyard has inside it. I try to reflect a sense of place with my wines. I take a very minimalist approach to my winemaking.

4. Do you have a little extra passion for Syrah?

Where does it stem from?

I’ve always wanted to make Syrah. The problem was not one of the wineries I worked for made it.

So when I went out on my own, I had all of these ideas on how to make it. It really is a special varietal for me. It can be made like Pinot Noir or Cab. I tend to lean more towards the PN side of things. Whole cluster fermentations, minimal racking, and no filtering.

5. You talk of progressive techniques rooted in classic winemaking, I applaud your forward thinking. However your wines still have a very classic edge to them, where does the progressiveness plug in?

It goes back to taking a minimalist approach to making wine but not afraid of trying something new if needed. I have started going with more Puncheons (double barrel size) in fermentation and aging in my reds. The wines are coming out more seamless and integrated than with smaller barrels.

6. Your resume reads very strong; Jordan, Far Niente, Luna vineyards, etc. What expectations, if any, has this created for Tallulah.

Hopefully, high ones! I have taken a little from each spot and created my own style. I am super excited about my 2009 whites and reds. The vintage was tremendous and I feel they reflect my almost 20 years of learning and making wine.

7. What is your target number for production?

And will you allocate any extra wine for release in this market since it is your hometown….hint hint.

I am currently making about 2,500 cases and don’t have any big expansion plans. If there is a vineyard that I find exciting then I will go for it. I think too many wineries grow just for the sake of growth and can lose the quality that got them recognized in the first place. Memphis will always have first dibs on my wine. I’ve got a lot of family and friends there that like to drink wine!

8. Final Question?...Why are your wines so damn good?

I’ve got an amazing wife, Tracy (a Yankee!), who is among other things an incredible chef. We are constantly trying different foods with various wines which gives me ideas on how to create my own wines. Also, my daughter’s name is on every bottle so it has to be good! Thanks!

Tallulah Winery 1043 Vallejo Street Napa, CA 94559 707-843-1823 tallulahwines.com

Les Trois Voix 2007 Spiced cedar box and a leather tone in the mid frame intermediate fruit in true Rhone fashion the finish grips and holds out Shake Ridge Ranch, Syrah, Amador County 2007 Hedonistic, rich and most powerful, plum, ripe tannins and classic pepper up front. Violet and fig jam take the finish structured but opens with some air Bald Mountain, Syrah, Mt. Veeder 2006 Extremely perfumed, flowers and smoked duck, black olives and dark fruit, very extracted but not in any form of a bad way, blueberry and a firm hint of wood finish strong

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 35



MEMPHIS ROOTS

Q&A Craig Weiss Cellar

Q: Why Wine?

It brings friends and family together. It enhances the dining experience. Plus, my cardiologist, Steve Gubin, told me to drink 2 glasses per day . . . so it’s Doctors Orders.

Q: I understand there are a few unique features to your cellar, tell me about those?

Worx of Wood did a unique job with the racks allowing more view of the bottle. Lee Pruitt did a great job with the design elements . . . over 100 year old reclaimed Terra Cotta floor from France, over 100 year old Italian iron chandelier, over 100 year old barn wood plank ceiling, and accent wall veneered in stone . . . all this really gives the cellar an Old World feel.

Q: How many Bottles do you currently have?

Over 1000, I am almost full and have started stacking 6-packs and cases. There is also a good bit of wine in a summer cellar (on hold for cooler shipping temperatures) that will be arriving later in the month. Need to do more drinking!

Q: Who is your Favorite Producer?

Do I have to pick just one?... Spottswoode, Ovid, Rubicon, Dominus, Continuum… my Top 5 in Napa.

“Old World Ventures” Craig Weiss, a venture capitalist and all around Memphian shares some info and lets us spend some time in his 18th century throw-back style wine room.

36 Cor k It

MEMPHIS ROOTS



Q: Oldest Bottle?

1967 (my birth year) Cockburn’s Vintage Port given to me by my friend for the occasion of my 40th birthday.

Q: Describe your storage?

55 degrees / 70% humidity, WineZone system.

Q: What is your cellar capacity?

1250-1500 range: Not really easy to quantify exactly with my set up; about 1000 individual bottle spaces plus space for cases and I am stacking 6-packs and cases against the stone wall.

Q: What areas do you focus on for collection?

For everyday drinking?

My wife Cathy and I did a Napa trip this summer and learned a lot and visited some great wineries, and thus are currently in to California Cabernets for everyday and collection. I have some Italian and French names that I like, but still have a lot to learn.

Q: Most regarded bottle?

1989 Chateau Margaux 750 mL or 3L 2007 Rubicon.

Q: Best purchase? Worst?

Best— Bond, St. Eden 2007 stole it . . . (not literally) Worst—none so far.

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 37

W

hen we recognize the name of a wine, a grape, or even a producer we should be

more inclined to buy it, right? We think we know what to expect, how it might taste because we have had it before, or our friends are continually talking about it. When the buzz is going around, “Oh my gosh this wine got a 186 point score from so and so”, we believe we have to try it (and in some sense are required to like it). Well, consider the idea that the wine in question is a Cabernet Sauvignon and you have spent your comfort zone drinking Pinot Grigio. Are you still going to like it? Is it ok if you don’t? Why would you? It has no shared characteristics with anything you know you like? (it is ok if you do like it, actually, that’s half the idea of this article). Is it the marketing put forth by the winery, branding of X reviewer, or is it the simple fact that a name floats around your social circle?

Should you continue to buy a specific, focused brand because you know they are supposed to be good? What is the benchmark for that judgment if that’s all you ever drink?

As a wine professional, I will always encourage you to drink what you love no matter my own personal opinion. I will smile gladly at you while the wine is poured and discuss the positive merits of your selection as you enjoy your meal. I write this article with free reign and a premise of anonymity but I am obligated as a wine lover to ask, “Why?” I implore you to open your mind to the world of wine, to the millions of bottles to choose from; wines for every mood, every occasion, every dish…To taste the terroir and talent of every winemaker, young and old, who still possess passion for what they do; to experience wine as it was originally intended: Hedonistic, alluring, intriguing, intellectual, and seductive. Intention should not be pomp, mass production to the point of self-destruction, or astronomical pricing. Please don’t get me wrong there is a market for this and many would argue that the appeal and elegance of the upper echelon would not be possible without these “styles”, chances are, however, if you’re reading this than you are not that market and my encouragement is only to expand your palate. To drink something new; a grape, a place, a producer you have never had (or heard of). Sometimes try something you’re not even sure you are going to like, imagine how much better the next bottle could be, what if you find that perfect bottle? As you are thinking “How dare he!” just realize that when you step outside the box and the branding, however many times it takes, when that absolute perfect bottle comes along, not only will this all make sense…you will thank me, you will thank yourself for trying, and after that, you will never look back .

38 Cor k It

Outside the

Box

Casual Dining | Fine Cuisine

Lunch Chef Joshua Laban Perkins

Chef Joshua Laban Perkins

- The -

Dinner Sunday Brunch

Stellar Cellar Wine &Spirits

HOLIDAY CELEBRATIONS Casual Dining | Fine Cuisine

The Stellar Cellar… broadening your wine horizon!

Lunch

Casual Dining, Fine Cuisine Dinner Lunch - Brunch Dinner - Special Dining Sunday Sunday Brunch

Casual DiningLUNCH | Fine Cuisine OR

DINNER Lunch PARTIES Dinner Rehearsal Dinners - Cocktail Receptions Sunday Brunch

Lunch & Dinner Parties - Chef’s Table in the Kitchen HOLIDAY

CELEBRATIONS

HOLIDAY CELEBRATIONS

CHEF’S TABLE IN THE KITCHEN

LUNCH OR DINNER Located in Laurelwood Shopping Center Located in Laurelwood Shopping Center PARTIES 901.818.9951 901-818-9951 www.TheGroveGrill.com LUNCH OR

9005 Highway 64 Ste. 109 Arlington, TN 38002 (901) 371-8232

www.thegrovegrill.com

DINNER PARTIES

Natalie’s

CHEF’S TABLE IN THE KITCHENLiquor

Warehouse

CHEF’S TABLE IN THE KITCHEN

Located in Laurelwood Shopping Center Located in Laurelwood Shopping Center 901-818-9951 901-818-9951 www.thegrovegrill.com www.thegrovegrill.com

1009 N. Germantown Parkway, Cordova, TN 38018 • 901-751-4232 • www.nataliesliquor.com Hours • 8am - 11pm Monday - Saturday www. MemphisCor kIt.com 39

Elfo’s Restaurant

2285 S. Germantown Rd.,Germantown, TN 38138 901.753.4017 www.elfosrestaurant.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia

Coltibuono, Chianti Classico, Italy 2008 and Black and Blued Halibut Black & Blued Halibut: This dish speaks for itself. It is blackened halibut with our homemade blue cheese dressing baked in the oven and served with haircorve green beans and roasted rosemary potatoes. It is a crowd pleaser paired with Wine: Chianti Classico D.O.C.G. Intense ruby red color with notes of red fruits and spices in the nose. Soft with balanced acidity and aromatic highlights. A clean, enduring finish.

Villa Matilde, Falanghina delle Campania, Campania Italy 2009 and Eggplant Pie Eggplant Pie: We chose this dish because it reminds us of fall in Tuscany; with its light pastry dough, fried eggplants and the sweet aroma of fresh tomatoes and basil. It is served with a mixed green salad, aged balsamic, roasted peanuts & shaved parmesan cheese.

Wine: FALANGHINA villa matilde. Elegant, floral and fruity, with distinct aromas of pineapple, bananas and peach, complemented by genista, roses, delicate notes of sage leaf.

Zenato, Amarone Della Valpolicella 2007 and Veal Chop 16 ounce boned in Veal Chop: Herb encrusted and grilled for 12-14 minutes, served with wild mushroom risotto, grilled asparagus with a veal demi glaze sauce. Is best with an aged Amarone Wine: Amorone Della Valpolicella Zenato. Amarone is rightly considered the king of Verona’s wines, produced from the best grapes of the Valpolicella Classic area carefully selected and dried in trays until January. Showing deep ruby red, it releases intense aromas laden with rich spice and dried fruit; in the mouth it is a wine of superb richness and majestic flavours.

40 Cor k It

MEMPHIS ROOTS



¯ Sommelier, n, french; Trained and knowledgable wine professional who specializes in all aspects of wine services as well as food and wine matching

Aubri Luckey TITLE: Wine Manager EMPLOYER: Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar YEARS EMPLOYED: 5 1/2 years

Fun Fact: The only place you can enjoy wine out of our beautiful wine glasses is Fleming’s & the White House.

Wine dinners / Somm Specials: You can design your own wine flight with any of our 100 wines by the glass.

# OF BOTTLES: 200 including 1/2 bottles # OF WINES BY THE GLASS: 100 FAVORITE PAIRINGS: Cajun BBQ shrimp with a Riesling Favorite thing about selling wine in Memphis: Getting guests to try new varietals

Michael Luckey TITLE: Bar Manager

FAVORITE PAIRINGS: Braised pork shank

EMPLOYER: Interim Restaurant & Bar

with gouda grits, collard greens and smoked paprika jus & Shafer Vineyards Merlot, Napa Valley

YEARS EMPLOYED: 2 years at Interim though I’ve been in the food industry since I was 16. # OF BOTTLES: 90 including 1/2 bottles # OF WINES BY THE GLASS: 45 Best part of the job: Every day is different than the last. I enjoy getting to know my customers on not just a food/wine basis but also on a personal basis. It doesn’t feel like work when you are “conversating” with friends over good food and drink.

Worst pairing mistake: An attempt to pair one wine with Thanksgiving dinner. You almost need a flight for each corner of your plate. What pairs with turkey doesn’t always jive with cranberry sauce.

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 41

ďƒœ

MEMPHIS ROOTS

Q&A

Sumrall Cellar

Q: Describe your storage?

Independent zone on climate control holding steady at 69 degrees, humidity stays about 70 % there is a smaller cooler where I keep daily drinking whites at about 54 Degrees.

Q: What is your cellar capacity?

Currently 450 but I could expand racking to over 2500, it will grow as my collection grows.

Q: Waterfalls, Really?

Sometimes you find creativity in the face of adversity when you want a wine tasting room/cellar and have no basement or 1st floor space in your home to have one. That problem compounds when you have the perfect 2nd floor space with more room than you need. I did my homework to understand temperature and humidity requirements needed for the room and how to insulate and seal properly. Then I struggled to turn that entire math in to something cool.

I loved the aesthetics of having waterfalls in the room and the added fact that they could be used not only to humidify the room but also to remove pollutants/allergens from the air. We added a system that processes the fountain water. The water from a catch basin at the bottom of the fountain circulates in to a filtration system that also uses ultra violet rays to remove bacteria and pollutants from the water. This system mists the water on to the slate walls and maintains the humidity in the room thru a humidistat that senses humidity and in turn regulates the system.

42 Cor k It

MEMPHIS ROOTS



Q: What areas do you focus on for collection?

For everyday drinking?

I collect what I drink, and some older stuff I happen across. I am a big fan of Carmenere and Syrah.

Q: Oldest Bottle?

1979 Caymus Cabernet.

“The Wine Library” A peek inside Gary Sumrall and Laura Taylor’s brand new Vino getaway, as owner of Memphis Maintance and budding collector, Gary felt he needed to craft a cellar into his home, he didn’t exactly tell me it was two stories and waterfalls…

Q: Most regarded bottle?

A Gundlach Bundschu Vintage Reserve, personally signed

by Jeff Bunschu.

Q: Favorite Cigar?

Rocky Potel, Old World Reserve.

Q: Why Wine?

I like it; as I drink it and learn about it, I try to understand it and have developed a thirst for knowledge. The more I got into wine, the more I learned I really didn’t know anything about it….The collecting is just my way of continuing my education.

Q: Unique features?

An attached humidor that is fully cedar lined and capable of storing 2,000+ cigars, along with a “tasting” table for six, on the second tier is a library / drawing space accessible by functional library ladder. I completely designed and built the space myself in about a year. www. MemphisCor kIt.com 43

When it comes to weddings, we’re partial to pink.

MEMPHIS

PINK BRIDAL SHOW Sunday, January 22, 2012 12 pm - 4 pm HILTON MEMPHIS HOTEL

While you’re at the show, don’t forget to pick up the latest issue of THE PINK BRIDE MEMPHIS MAGAZINE

For more information or to buy tickets call 865.531.3941 or visit

www.ThePinkBride.com

44 Cor k It

Joseph Phelps Vineyards 200 Taplin Road • St. Helena, CA 94574 • www.JPVWines.com

Winemaker - Ashley Hepworth Senior Sommelier - Claude Leruitte

Mammoth, 600 acre, sprawling property purchased by Joe Phelps in 1973.

The following year the winery was completed, the first Syrah was made, and Insignia was born! Joseph Phelps has breathtaking views that appear to go on forever. The stately, classic feel of the grounds are synonymous with the reputation they exude. Claude Leruitte, senior Sommelier, was a delight to visit with. He stressed his opinions on the importance of drinking wine properly, at the correct temperature of 60 - 65 deg F; why decanting is necessary for the wine to breathe; and a new fact to me: Tannin = tantric acid. The more tannin, the longer the life.

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon The 2008 Cabernet reveals aromas of plum

TODAY WE TASTED: 2010 Sauvignon Blanc St. Helena-Napa

and blackberry intertwined with graphite, forest floor, dark chocolate and curry notes.

The fruit and spice carry through on the palate adding to the multi-layered texture of this wine. Supple, integrated and age-

The 2010 Sauvignon Blanc is abundant with

worthy tannins create a long, lush finish.

aromas of melon, lemon verbena, toasted marshmallow and citrus zest with a mediumbody and vibrant finish.

2007 Freestone Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast

2004 Napa Syrah Napa Valley The wine exudes layers of sandalwood, Yum! The warm 2004 vintage played a critical

anise, cassis and dried tea leaves. Its

role in creating this lush, concentrated Syrah.

density lingers on the palate and offers

The wine is loaded with white pepper and

flavors of plum, Bing cherries, black tea and

blueberry jam aromas, with some floral notes in

tobacco, while the finish provides the spicy

the background resulting from co-fermenting

and earthy characteristics that are typical

The nose reveals aromas of toasted

with Viognier. Enticing aromas are followed by a

of Freestone wines.

brioche, apricot

2009 Freestone Chardonnay Sonoma County

pits, lemon

oil,

shaved almonds, flower petals and

tannic backbone, and a long, lingering finish.

chamomile

2008 Insignia Napa Valley Cabernet, Petit Verdot, Merlot

infused

with

honey.

There is great concentration, weight and intensity in this Chardonnay with

vibrant, focused

flavors

of

YUM!! The 2008 Insignia boasts aromatic

honeysuckle, quince, orange blossom

layers of dark roasted coffee and graphite.

and a touch of apple skins to tempt

The seductive mouth-feel has excellent

the palate. This wine is full-bodied,

length, intensely ripe black fruit, minerality

has great length and possesses a

and creaminess that tie together seamlessly

tangy, citrus finish with tremendous

on the palate.

precision and mineralogy. www. MemphisCor kIt.com 45



MEMPHIS ROOTS

Q&A Wheeler Cellar Q: Why Wine?

As I started collecting seriously it really became more interesting. Some of my best friends I have met through wine, and I prefer to have 1,000 different tastes to choose from.

“Dr. Bordeaux” Dr. Ben Wheeler took us down into his basement and into a back corner to sneak a peek at his Francophiles dream cabinets

Q: Describe your storage?

55 degrees with passive humidity, but the coolers are in my basement, so it’s fairly consistent year round.

Q: How many Bottles do you currently have?

About 7,000 split into 3 coolers.

Q: What areas do you focus on for collection?

French mostly, white Burgundy and Bordeaux but, there is some red Burgundy and a little from other countries.

46 Cor k It

Q: What is your cellar capacity?

9,000 to 10,000 depending on how packed I want it.

MEMPHIS ROOTS



Q: Favorite wine?

I would have immediately said either a 98 Chateau La Pavillon or 98 Jaboulet La Chapelle from a vintage tasting we did, however later it was apparent that the 1998 Penfold’s Grange was going to take that title.

Q: Do you still buy wine locally?

Always, more often than I care to admit, I still buy from Gary or go over to Busters.

Q: Oldest Bottle?

1955 and 1959 Bordeaux.

Q: Worst purchase?

3 cases of 1989 Chateau Talbot…not that it is a bad wine but, I bought 3 cases because I had forgotten twice that I had already bought a case!

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 47

Chappellet Vineyard & Winery

1581 Sage Canyon Road • St. Helena, CA 94574 • www.Chappellet.com

Winemaker - Phillip Corallo-Titus Director of Hospitality - Candice Pannetier Guest Relations - Sacha Fisher

Since 1967, the Chappellet family has been crafting wines from the Pritchard Hill Estate.

The property sits on the rocky eastern slopes of the Napa Valley. The Chappellets were the first to plant vineyards exclusively on high elevation hillsides and the 2nd winery to be established in the Napa Valley after Prohibition. The rugged terrior of Chappellet vineyards produces wines with great intensity and depth. Set off the beaten path, with little signage due to the property being occupied by the Chappellet family, the trek to get there was certainly worth our while. I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Chappellet himself!

WE TASTED THE FOLLOWING:

2009 Napa Valley Chardonnay Delicate peach, apricot and light honeysuckle aromas meld into luscious notes of butter and vanilla. Ripe tropical fruit flavors of lychee and pineapple coat the palate, ushered by the wine’s supple viscosity. The silky mouthfeel is balanced by crisp minerality, giving way to spicy oak, nutmeg and clove on the finish.

2009 Signature Chardonnay Napa Valley Yum! The nose offers abundant layers of baked apple, quince and lemon custard. These perfectly ripe aromas are supported by enticing notes of sweet oak, hazelnut and brioche. On the palate, the wine is beautifully proportioned, with a round viscous feel and lively balancing

2009 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

acidity.

Apricot, nectarine and tropical fruit

are seamlessly integrated with hints of clove, nutmeg and melted butter.

Black currant, cherry, plum and violet leaping out of the glass before revealing subtler notes of cinnamon, clove, espresso, cocoa and anise. On the palate, the tannins are large, yet velvety, supporting voluptuous layers of blackberry, Bing cherry, cassis and baking spices. Oak-inspired notes of caramelized brown sugar and molasses add additional nuance, while leading to a plush, lingering finish.

2008 Malbec Napa Valley Yum! Bright color and intense flavors. Bright purple red color gives hint to the fresh baked blueberry pie aromas found on the nose. A rich palate is highlighted by black cherry and mocha flavors. The silky tannins highlight a long finish that is intense and fruity.

48 Cor k It

The Victor L. Robilio Company is Proud to Represent the Following Wines

Inspired by the fantastic tale of Atilla Balbôs & an allencompassing passion for life.

Let each glass transport you to a magical place where the wine flows freely, laughter fills the air & you dance until sunrise.

NIPOZZANO RISERVA A History of Excellence

Four time recipient of the prestigious Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines award and six consecutive vintages with scores of 90 points or higher in the Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate.

Founded in 1972 as Santa Barbara County’s First Estate Winery

Crios “All Crios wines are phenomenal values worth buying by the case”

Robert Parker Jr’s The Wine Advocate 2008

”Value Brand of the Year” Wine & Spirits, 2009, 2007 & 2004

“Hot Brand” Award 2008 Impact Magazine, 2009

At Kenwood Vineyards, we are committed to making the best wines and treating the earth with the utmost respect. By following sustainable growing practices, Kenwood Vineyards can continue the tradition of quality winemaking for generations to come. www. MemphisCor kIt.com 49

Silver Oak Cellars

Napa Valley: 915 Oakville Crossroad • Oakville, CA 94562 Alexander Valley: 24625 Chianti Road • Geyserville, CA 95441 www.SilverOak.com

Winemaker - Daniel Baron Tasting Room Manager - Kim Caffrey

What a fantastic story they have and what a footprint they have made...a namesake if you will.

Silver Oak boasts a stunning tasting room where we were surrounded by a plethora of wine, old and new. We couldn’t have asked for a more knowledgeable hostess, Kim Caffrey, and she shared the differences between French and American oak: With French oak logs, we can only harvest about 20% of the wood for staves. Because of the grain and the lignin’s, you have to hand split the wood.

In the American oak log, you get 2x that.

So Silver Oak uses only American Oak and it comes from our own cooper, A & K Cooperage in Missouri. We became managing partners with them about 12 years ago so we get exactly what we want.

Cabernet and the Blend are made in the American Oak. It has been a

WHAT DID I TASTE HERE? 2007 Alexander Cabernet

hallmark for them.

We also learned how the wine ages in the barrels, and what particular elements are pulled from the process. Kim explained.

When we age the wine in barrels, we use a barrel to draw the vanilla and caramel and baking

Smells of rich blackberry and plum.

Very full wine, not too acidic.

spice flavors, and creaminess from the wood. A barrel will hold wine for 4 years before it will become somewhat neutral.

When you toast the barrel, you caramelize the sugar in the wood, and that gives you those

2006 Napa Cabernet

baking spice aromas. So you age the wine in the barrel to give you some of that, but think of aging wine in a barrel like using a tea bag.

The 1st time you use it you get strong flavor, 2nd

Floral nose, violet and truffles.

use of the tea bag you get about half as much

Earthy, fruity taste. Very smooth.

flavor, and the 3rd use of the tea bag you’re not really getting any flavor.

2003 Alexander Cabernet

It’s the same thing with a barrel, so when she

(This wine is Daniel Baron’s current favorite)

explained the Alex Valley is half new and half once used, it’s because the fruit itself has a

Luxurious and smooth. Chocolaty smell.

softer flavor, and the tannins are softer, we want

Somewhat sweet initial taste, a little fruit. Very

an older barrel.

elegant overall.

From the Napa fruit, because the soil is so much more restrictive, they have a lot more volcanic nature, and the tannins are stronger, the fruit matches the new oak better. It’s all about balance.

The other reason you age the wine in the barrel is because it is a porous container. So there is a very slow oxygenation of the wine in the wood.

Another important element to aging is the wine having a good acid balance, it can age a lot longer and more gracefully, and at lower alcohol levels also.

Racking and Topping: Racking is done every 6 months: we syphon the wine off of the sediment – sediment is the spent leaves and yeast and solid protein and particles – into another clean barrel. The leaves are put through a filter, and you get a little bit of wine, and the main reason to do this if for less waste.

Topping is done every 3 months – just top with a little bit more wine.

50 Cor k It

MEMPHIS ROOTS



The Right Place & The Right Time Gus and Phyllis Anderson

>> We live in a city that, unfortunately, does not embrace wine as much as anyone reading this article would like, but those that do embrace the art put heart, soul, and really big investments into it. Memphis boasts as home to a few winemakers, some vineyard owners, and a few key industry executives. However, we have two flagship wineries that are firmly rooted right here in our own backyards (well at least as far as ownership is concerned); Memphians George Chandler, Kent Ritchie, and Tom McCarthy are vested into Eagles Trace Winery and Dr. Michael Dragutsky and his crew are the proud owners of Cornerstone Cellars. Who would have thought?

EAGLES TRACE Eagles Trace is a proud Napa Valley estate, originally the brainchild of renowned winemaker Gus Anderson (Conn Valley Vineyards) and his wife Phyllis. Gus and George had developed a friendship over the previous years, though whether or not the basis for that friendship was discounted, packaging still remains a mystery (Mr. Chandler is retired from International Paper). Over the years when Gus and Phyllis would travel to Memphis, the Chandlers would kindly host them, and from there the Andersons had a chance to meet the Chandlers neighbors; the Ritchie’s and the McCarthy’s. So, in 2003, the story goes, after “retiring” from CVV, Gus got a little bored and decided that he didn’t really want to be out of the game and decided to try his hand at a new venture designed around a winemaking style Gus holds dear to his heart. He focused on small lot wines with the feel of Bordeaux.

He approached our local boys with an opportunity to buy in. With this golden opportunity to take a passion for wine and bring it to the next level, George, Kent, and Tom formed an investment LLC, lovingly named “Hood Investments” after the beginnings of their friendships stemming from their neighborhood connection. The guys are quick to point out they really did not walk into this with delusions of grandeur or fame, but simply with a leap of faith and a belief in Gus’ abilities and talent. “Who wouldn’t want to own a winery?” jokes Kent, while Tom is content with being “a card carrying member”, and George has found his participation has “taken my love of wine to another level”.

The winery itself is an amazing thing boasting one of the only “Dead-end” aging caves in the valley, and producing world-class, seriously world-class, juice from about 26 densely planted acres at the base of Howell Mountain in Conn Valley. Their flagship wine, Latitude 38, is a Bordeaux blend in the style of Pessac and birthed from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc and produced at about 1,000 six-pack cases. This wine has always had its own identity, a true terroir, and has outstanding aging potential. Eagles Trace also offers traditional varietal wines made from Merlot and Cabernet, both with Bordeaux appeal and elegance. In the past few years, they have also included an absolutely amazing small batch (200 cases) Pinot Noir sourced from Valhalla Vineyard, a small 2 acre property in the southern part of Napa. Although Mr. Anderson’s technique has put Eagles Trace on the map, the thanks go to George, Kent, and Tom for bringing this amazing wine to Memphis.

George Chandler

Tom McCarthy

Kent Ritchie



Memphis Roots

CORNERSTONE Cornerstone is celebrating its’ 20th birthday this year and lays claim to being 100 percent owned by Memphians, several Memphians to be exact. At the helm, though, is managing partner Dr. Michael Dragutsky.

Supporting him are the likes of Dr. Ben Wheeler, Dr. Kevin Foley, John Carrier, Dr. Garretson Ellis, Hal Lewis, and Dr. David Sloas, just to name a few.

Cornerstone has an extremely complicated ownership structure, as there are quite a few names involved, but has some very humble beginnings. In 1991, Dr. Sloas was visiting Napa for the harvest and hanging out with Randy Dunn (Dunn Vineyards, Long shadows) and through some very random conversation about how Dunn had committed to buying the entire crop of fruit from a certain vineyard and there would be some excess, would David care to maybe buy some very highly regarded Napa berries? Well, of course! So David phones home and gets in touch with Dr. Dragutsky and together they purchase enough grapes to produce about 300 cases of wine (they knew it would be good), and the first vintage of Cornerstone was born by winemaker and 3rd partner Bruce Scotland’s hand which debuted to some very high reviews and ratings from critics.

Over the next years there would be not only a growing influx of capital from Memphis investors but a kind of “who’s who” of winemakers and consultants starting with Bruce Scotland as winemaker. After an unfortunate parting of ways, Cornerstone brought in Celia Masyczek (Staglin and more recently Scarecrow) to oversee the 1999 and 2000 blending and also to start as winemaker beginning, with the 2001 vintage. “Although she did an absolutely wonderful job, we just weren’t getting the attention we needed to grow,” shares Dr. Dragutsky.

Around the 2004 time frame came the next overhaul, introducing Hal Lewis and John Carrier as partners and later bringing on board Jeff Keene as the 3rd and current winemaker. Keene, being a Peter Francis protégé, had a background in making truly great wines and also understood the growth that the Cornerstone group was looking for. He officially took over winemaking for the 2009 vintages.

2008 saw the addition of social media guru Craig Camp as the overall business manager. With the expansion of the Stepping Stone line of products, the winery has grown to an overall production of more than 12,000 cases. Owners are quick to point out that the original Cornerstone Cabernet and the Howell Mountain labels are not being expanded. In fact, they’re recently working a more niche Bordeaux blend that might just be “The Cornerstone” of their continued growth.

Right here in Memphis we have some winery owners, and even better is that these are not slouch wineries. They are true testaments to passion and purity. Here we have quality producers of wine and great role models for the rest of Memphis and even Napa Valley to follow.

Let’s show them a little support! Oh and Dr. Dragutsky, when you read this, how about maybe expanding into the Rhone? This would make me, personally, very happy!

52 Cor k It

Back: Rhonda Jaslawsky, Mark Jaslawsky, Eric Ormsety, Kevin Foley, Ken Steinberg, Charles Jalenak, Joel Banes. Middle: Mike Dragutsky, Lynn Foley, Deborah Carrier, Jill Steinberg, Monique Jalenak, Amy Monroe. Front: Elvira Ormsety, Beni Dragutsky, John Carrier, Winemaker Jeff Keene

MEMPHIS ROOTS

2005 Eagles Trace Latitude 38

ďƒœ

Dark ruby/purple in color. It presents an aroma of violets, vanilla, spice, and black fruits. The wine makes a beautiful entry to the palate with black berries, black currant, and plums. It has great depth and concentration with lingering flavors of chocolate as a background to compliment the complex ripe tannins and long lingering finish.

2008 Eagles Trace Pinot Noir Valhalla Vineyard Dried meats and smoked kirsch, plum and violet tones soften up the aromatics, framed by a firm acidity and brandied cherries there is a soft touch of sweet oak, a moderate finish as far as complexity but it has length including tobacco and some underbrush with a slight cracked pepper pop at the end

2008 Eagles Trace Merlot Smells of plums and roasted beets along with hints of black spiced tea and cedar tease the nose. Mouthfeel is velvety but solid, must open slightly but doesn’t take long to flesh out, suppler than previous years, very approachable now but will benefit from 4-5 years in bottle

2010 Stepping Stone Riesling Off dry in style, Alsatian in feeling with a solid minerality in the nose with soft fruit hints behind and a touch of lime, there is only the softest of perceived sweetness as the finish ends

2009 Stepping Stone Red Rocks!

As a blend of 90 percent Zinfandel and 10 percent Pinot, this is very interesting, deep dark fruit and blueberry in the nose, but moves into a softer more elegant palate with light cherry and extra flesh in the middle, gripping finish with some dynamic changes

2007 Cornerstone Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Deep royal purple fades to shades of magenta in this thoroughly structured offering. Complex, rich and velvety this wine delivers on all fronts. Ripe black cherries, cassis, a hint of clove and fresh potting soil transition in to a mid palate that presents surprisingly smooth round tannins for a wine this young.

Eagles Trace

Cornerstone Cellars

680 Rossi Road

6505 Washington St.

St. Helena, CA 94574

Yountville, CA 94599

707-963-4412

707-945-0388

www.EaglesTrace.com

www.CornerstoneCellars.com

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 53

1044 So. Yates, Memphis, TN 38119

901-763-3700

erlings@ejensen.com www.ejensen.com

Open daily 5:00

Item# 212 © 2011 14 Hands Winery, Paterson, WA 99345

14 Hands

Discover Washington state’s best kept secret The inspiration for 14 Hands wines recalls a time when wild horses – measuring a scant 14 hands high – once freely roamed the hills of eastern Washington state.

14 Hands celebrates the spirit of these wild horses with big, bold, juicy reds and crisp whites that represent the unbridled freedom 14 hands . com and spirit of the region.

1239 Ridgeway Road, Memphis TN

(901) 761-4000 www.Amerigo.net

www.MemphisCorkIt.com ••• Find us on Facebook @ Memphis Cork It ~ Magazine

54 Cor k It

Circa by John Bragg

6150 Poplar Avenue, Suite 122, Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 746-9130 www.CircaMemphis.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia

Veal rack with prosciutto, basil-mascarpone stuffing. Butternut squash risotto. Michele Chiarlo Barbera d’ Asti Piedmont, Italy 2008 This dark berried fruit filled wine is a natural for the salty rich prosciutto and earthy richness of the butternut squash. The acidity and vibrancy of this Barbera plays on the contrast of zestiness of fruit and richness of food. Barbera is a natural for food given its depth of fruit and powerful structure.

Chevre Goat Cheesecake Maple Cream Fraiche, Blueberry Zinfandel Sauce Robert Emael “Mönchhof” Riesling Mosel Slate Spätlese Mosel, Germany 2010 Riesling Spätlese has become the go to Riesling for cheese and fruit for many years. This Goat Cheese dessert has a slight sweetness and tanginess that compliments the exotic citrus and honeysuckle of the spätlese. As always with fruit and cheese the berry zinfandel sauce adds a refreshing depth of rich blueberry to keep the palate asking for more rich goat cheese exciting the palate with contrast. www. MemphisCor kIt.com 55

5040 Sanderlin Avenue Suite 105 Memphis, Tennessee 38117 Interim Restaurant and Bar

5040 Sanderlin, Suite 105, Memphis TN 38117 (901) 818-0821 www.InterimRestaurant.com

Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia

Grüner Veltliner, Höpler, Burgenland 2009 paired with Pan Seared Scallops

Grüner Veltliner , the most widely grown grape in Austria, sadly is an overlooked white wine. This wine’s versatility with all cuisines, especially ones with fresh local ingredients, is a match made in heaven with Interim’s Executive Chef Jackson Kramer. Jackson was sourcing from local farmers and artisans before it was hip. One of our favorite dishes that incorporates local lima beans and corn is the seared scallops.

There isn’t a vegetable that Grüner Veltliner doesn’t love. The rocky soils of Burgenland attribute to the mineral quality and its forceful white pepper finish without being overbearing. The minerality mixed with hints of sliced apple and a natural high acidity makes the mouth happy to enjoy the tender scallops. This combination with savory potatoes mixed with the salt from the country ham adds dimension and hardiness that good Grüner’s of the world were made for.

Ruah, Desert Wind, Columbia Valley 2009 paired with Duck Breast Ruah, a Bordeaux inspired blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Cabernet Franc from Washington, compliments our fall menu version in many ways. The soft velvety tannins match well with the roasted duck from the family owned Maple Leaf Farms in Leesburg, Indiana. Local swiss chard, sautéed butternut squash, caramelized onions and a liberal amount of duck confit give this dish backbone that doesn’t get lost in the lingering finish of toasted oak the Ruah imparts. This red blend has hints of nutty spice and blueberry imparted from the larger blend of Washington style Cabernet Franc. The wild huckleberry and port reduction lend a smoky and sweet flavor only found when harvested from the sunny slopes of Oregon.

Interim R E STAURANT & BAR

5040 Sanderlin Avenue 5040 Sanderlin Avenue | 901.818.0821 | interimrestaurant.com Suite 105 Memphis, Tennessee 38117

A BRIEF RESPITE IN TIME 5040 Sanderlin Avenue Memphis, TN 38117 901-818-0821 | interimrestaurant.com Lunch

56 Cor k It

Brunch

Dinner

AROUND THE VINE “The wines that one best remembers are not necessarily the finest that one has ever tasted, and the highest quality may fail to delight so much as some far more humble beverage drunk in more favorable surroundings.”

-H. Warner Allen Education, explanation, and excitement; full of interviews, editorials, and technical information, from these things our understanding of how and why we love what we drink is formed…In Vino Veritas

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 57



AROUND THE VINE

Here are some things that carry a very heavy influence on the final wine, either before bottling or after opening. These are words that consumers hear constantly but may not be exactly sure of the impact or true meaning.

Malolactic Fermentation: the process of converting malic acid to lactic acid, generally introducing a fuller, more rounded mouthfeel. Flavors and aromas become reminiscent of butter.

American Oak: Known to create spicier, bold aromas and vanilla flavors, caused by the way the staves are made by a cooper (“barrel maker”). The wider grain means the wood can be sawed instead of split which allows more contact with the “unseasoned” wood, imparting less oak nuisances and wood tannins.

French Oak: The tighter grain of the wood and traditional splitting imparts less aromatic characteristics into the wine, but creates more tannin presence and contributes to a deeper intrinsic complexity, not as seemingly sweet as American oak.

Fortification: (Fortified wine examples: Port, Sherry, or Maderia) The act of using a neutral grape spirit like brandy to halt the fermentation process and retain a fair amount of residual sugar, a side effect being a higher alcohol content from the dose of brandy, and decades of aging potential.

Sediment: In younger wines sediment can be the unfiltered remnants of the stems, skins and protein compounds left from the fermentation process. In older wines, during their development phenolic compounds join together and eventually become large enough to “fall” out of the wine; although the sediment is a by-product of aging and complexity, it has a very bitter and unpleasant effect on the wine.

It is best to separate the juice from the sediment.

Decanting: The actual term refers to the action of removing a wine from its sediment no matter the age, however the same action can serve other purposes; “decanting” can be used to encourage aeration in younger wines (not desired to the same extent in older wines) helping sulfurous or off aromas to dissipate and to “open” slightly tighter youthful reds (or whites). There are some wines that serve no benefit from decanting other than for presentations sake.

58 Cor k It

WINE

101

AROUND THE VINE



Navigating a wine list

by Chris Thorn

E

very wine publication in the world has some sort of “guide for ordering wine”. Well yes, this is another one of those, but I am offering a little more insight into how to make a selection that is conducive to what you really want - not just what you recognize.

All too often customers’ fear about what to order overshadow chance and conversation, and the 5 minutes that it would take to hear a few suggestions or understand how the wine list is laid out, gets lost in that same fear. Here are two sets of “questions” you can use to gain your bearings and a better understanding of what you’re looking at.

This range of Q&A will most likely open a comfortable dialogue between the house expert and you. The ice has been broken, ground rules have been set, and everyone ends up happy in the end (most reputable wine directors will “fix” a recommendation go awry). Please take the 5-8 minutes and explore these conversations.

Ask the waiter“Is there a sommelier, or someone I could talk to about the wine list?”

See if you recognize anything on the list and use that as a reference point. If you don’t see anything you’re familiar with, ask to taste something from the middle of the page (be specific in what you ask for) and use that as a benchmark. Almost all wine lists at an establishment that does not employ a full time wine sales person will be listed in progressive format (actually this is true of most lists). Progressive format is a way in which the wines are arranged in order, moving from top to bottom, from drier, lighter intensity to fuller, higher intensity (both reds and whites).

Ask to taste another wine, if still unsure. Most establishments have no issue with very small samplings (2 is usually a good max. the restaurant is not Baskin Robins after all) but be careful for some more casual, corporate entities have adopted a minimal charge for these “Samples”. From this point your server should be able to answer basic questions, or offer preprogramed responses to simple questions about the body, fruit, and sweetness of the wines or what pairs with certain entrees.

Good luck and happy hunting!

If the answer is yes, then further questions can be more pointed and direct: Pointing to a price “What do you have in this range that fits what I’m looking for…” followed by, “I enjoy types of wines (crisp, dry, oaked, fruity, earthy etc..) but I prefer they are not (sweet, oaked, dry, fruity etc..) or to really get the most from your experience after those questions, inquire as to what the Sommelier or “wine guy/gal” is 1. Most excited about now 2. Feels is the best “bang for the buck” 3. What would they drink with dinner?

If there is no sommelier or anyone with enough knowledge to carry a coherent and informed conversation about wine, not all is lost!

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 59



AROUND THE VINE

Memphis Meets Santa Barbara Wine Experience

by Josh Hammond, Owner Buster’s Liquors & Wines

This summer a group of twenty Memphians, including myself, found ourselves in Santa Barbara taking in the wonderful landscape and learning about one of California’s newest and smallest winegrowing regions known as “Happy Canyon.”

Katie Hudman, Michael Hudman, Andy Ticer, Karie Ticer

“Although the Happy Canyon AVA (American Viticultural Areas) was established only two years ago and encompasses an area about one-tenth the size of Napa Valley, it is already making an impact in the wine world.”

- Wine Spectator, September 2011 The inspiration for the trip came last fall while winemaker Doug Margerum, aka “my brother from another mother”, was in town promoting his wines. Doug not only produces wines under his own label Margerum, but he is the winemaker for Cimarone Winery and Happy Canyon Vineyards as well.

While devouring a “smorgasbord” of local Memphis

Andy Ticer, Felicia Willet, Josh Hammond, Doug

barbecue with the Buster’s wine staff that busy Saturday,

Margerum, Wally Joe, Michael Hudman

Doug tinkered with the prospect of “how do we get Memphians out to Happy Canyon?”

What ensued

was one of the best brainstorming sessions and actionoriented lunches I’ve ever encountered.

Several ribs

and a few phone calls later, Doug and I created a unique three-day wine experience package for six that was auctioned off at The Brooks Museum Grand Auction and purchased by Mike & Maria Douglas in May. “The Memphis Meets Santa Barbara Wine Experience” is a remarkable collaboration of winemaker Doug Margerum, Buster’s Liquors & Wines, The Brooks Museum, and four exceptional Memphis chefs featuring Felicia Mike & Maria Douglas, Carmen & Matt Bond, Jay & Regina Healy

Willett (of Felicia Suzanne’s), Michael Hudman & Andy Ticer (of Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen), and Wally Joe (of Acre); all coming together to entertain while enjoying the beautiful scenery and relaxed atmosphere that is Santa Barbara through wine and food.

60 Cor k It

AROUND THE VINE

The package highlighted by three marquis events featured an

On Saturday afternoon, the finale of festivities was a good ole

introductory wine dinner on Thursday night at the renowned

fashion outdoor BBQ cook-off at Margerum Winery just north of

Wine Cask Restaurant benefitting the International Children’s

Los Olivos that pitted Memphis whole hog vs. Santa Maria tri-

Fund.

The Memphis chefs, who arrived Tuesday to begin

tips. Michael & Andrew “top-cooked” their hog in a box, one of

preparations, presented a fascinating southern styled cuisine

their signature cooking styles with Felicia adding flavor for the

using local foods from both host cities that included Santa

home team with her “BBB southern cooked greens with green

Barbara octopus, sturgeon, and uni along with Delta grits and

tomato chow chow.” As chefs cooked away, Doug entertained

Memphis Caviar. The post dinner Q&A with all seventy attendees

“cellar rats” by scurrying around the winery exploring barrel

and chefs was equally charming as the food presentations.

samples. I found a barrel of Doug’s new Grenache to which

Wine highlights were the 2010 Margerum Rose, 2007 Margerum

I got extremely cozy. Wines of interest include 2010 Margerum

“UBER” Syrah, 2008 Margerum M5, 2008 Happy Canyon Piocho,

“Sybarite” Sauvignon Blanc (Frederic Koeppel named the

and 2008 Happy Canyon Ten Goal.

‘09 his favorite white wine of last year; I feel vindicated), 2008



Margerum Grenache, and 2008 Margerum “Purisma” Syrah.

The following day for lunch, guests sipped wine and relaxingly observed the gallant display of equestrian sportsmanship as

In all, the weekend was filled with gracious hospitality, succulent

horses thundered by during an exhibition polo match hosted by

cuisine, fabulous wine, and laughing friendships that remind

TJ Barrack of Happy Canyon Vineyards. The Barracks’ spacious

me of home.

Piocho Polo Fields are perfectly nestled between rolling hills just

Happy Canyon experiencing this magical place in such fashion

a few miles east of Santa Ynez just as one drives over the San

after proposing to my wife last year at Piocho. And now, having

Marcos pass into the eastern most inland portion of the valley.

enjoyed these moments with family and friends only solidifies

This is where you will find Happy Canyon. A place where limited

the wondrous attraction Santa Barbara and Happy Canyon

hillside and valley floor vineyard sites are situated in the heart of

has on me personally.

It’s hard to believe I would find myself back in

polo country. We enjoyed the 2009 Margerum “Klickitat” Pinot Gris and the aptly named the 2009 Happy Canyon “Chukker”

The word Piocho is an Indian word that means “where two rivers meet and go to heaven.” Well, a special bond or “piocho” of

which made perfect aperitifs.

sorts has now been created between Memphis and Santa That afternoon, the ensemble toured neighboring Grassini

Barbara. And I’m happy to announce that Doug along with

Vineyards and Cimarone Winery while capping off

all the Santa Barbara hosts are saying, “Ya’ll come back now,

Friday

evening with a surprisingly delicious and efficient taco-truck

you hear”.

cocktail party at the estate of Roger and Priscilla Higgins,

Experience is already in the works!

The 2012 Memphis Meets Santa Barbara Wine

owners of Cimarone. Their vista overlooking Happy Canyon is simply one of the most breathtaking panoramas in the valley

And for those wanting to know, the winners of the cook-off were

to watch the sun fade. Wines to note are the 2008 Cimarone

all those in attendance.

“Les Clos Secret” a Bordeaux style wine (my personal favorite), and 2009 Cimarone Cilla’s Blend, a wine just as beautiful and elegant as Priscilla herself.

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 61

Sequoia Grove Winery 8338 St. Helena Hwy • Napa, CA 94558 • www.SequoiaGrove.com

Winemaker - Molly Hill Retail Operations & Sales Manager - Matt McMann

Sitting on 22 acres in Rutherford, Sequoia Grove was established during the gold rush days. The rustic property houses a tasting room in a 150 year old barn nestled on grounds of landscaped sequoia trees.

“Be true to the fruit of the grape,” Matt McMann - basically, do not alter the originality of what the grape juice is meant to become. I love this mindset and practice.

2010 Glorious Gewurztraminer Mendocino - Winery Only YUM!! Sweet, intense aromas of lychee, white peach, mango, rose petals, honeysuckle and jasmine, lead your mouth to flavors of tangerine and melon on the palate.

This wine goes great with spicy ethnic foods.

THEY HAD US TRY THESE:

2007 Merlot Napa Valley

2009 Carneros Chardonnay

Bright red in color with luscious aromas of caramel, toast, and chocolate covered coffee

Light golden yellow in color with heady

beans, which give way to notes of roasted nuts.

aromas of ripe Meyer lemon, custard, and

The palate is round and rich filled with coffee

almonds. Background notes of jasmine and

and bright red raspberry flavors.

orange blossom tease the nose. On the

The flavors in this wine are so rich it would be

palate, the wine is smooth and seamless

a great pre-dinner wine. A great pairing with a

with a hint of richness in the mid-palate and

dark chocolate tart for a decadent dessert.

a lemon curd finish.

Try is with a just picked spring lettuce and

2008 Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah Atlas Peak

fresh herb salad, or with a mature, delicate brie cheese.

2010 Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley Aromas of fresh cut grass, minerals, pink grapefruit, and a hint of citrus blossom and lime juice. The perfectly balanced acidity matches the mid-palate roundness and ends with a touch of light toast flavor.

This is a food friendly wine that goes great with sushi, oysters, salads, and delicate fish dishes.

2008 Rebellious Red Napa Valley

and boysenberry and lesser notes of charred meat and tea leaves. The palate is silky and

“Everyone has a little rebel in them, and we

round with a hint of delicate oak and cigar on

winemaker’s are no exception. This is the

the finish. Excellent with barbequed ribs with a

wine we make to shake things up.” -Mike

spicy rub.

Trujillo, Director of Winemaking This wine is winemaker’s choice. Risky! I like it!!

2006 Rutherford Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Inky red in color with an immediate hit of juicy, red cherries and fresh raspberries with background notes of red plum. Caramelized toast and cinnamon and clove aromas wave in the background. There is a hint of sage, cigar box, and that classic ‘allspice’ note. Well balanced palate with nice acid, round, subtle tannins and a lingering finish.

Pairs well with wild mushroom risotto, seared rib-eye.

62 Cor k It

Red black in color with aromas of black cherry

2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon The nose gives aromas of red cherry and blackberries with sweet vanilla, nutmeg, and cigar. Crushed flower petals, peppercorn. Flavors of blackberry and spice blend into a smoky finish.

AROUND THE VINE



Sustainably Organic Persis Johnson of Honig Vineyard and Winery

>> We are here with Persis Johnson of Honig Vineyard and Winery in Napa Valley to break down what sustainable wine making is all about.

Can you tell us what is involved with organic wine making and sustainable farming?

Many people use the terms organic, biodynamic and sustainable, interchangeably when in fact these “greening” practices are different. The first, organic farming, does not use synthetic pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers during the growing cycle. Organic practices are strictly defined and outlined by the National Organic Program (NOP). Biodynamic farming takes a more holistic approach, following lunar cycles to determine when to best plant, harvest, and bottle the wine and by using other natural farming practices. Biodynamic farming techniques have been credited to Rudolph Steiner, an Austrian Philosopher from the early 20th century. The Wine Institute defines sustainable farming as, “winegrowing and winemaking practices that are sensitive to the environment, responsive to the needs and interests of society-at-large, and are economically feasible to implement and maintain.” Vintners and wine makers may sometimes use overlapping techniques depending on what works best for them.

Certification programs exist for organic, biodynamic and sustainable vineyard and winery practices.

What are the advantages of using these techniques?

The advantages to using these techniques are improving the condition of the land and producing better wines. Also, the California wine industry and Napa Valley’s wine community are still largely family owned.

These families want to pass their wineries and vineyards on to future generations and these techniques are helping to ensure this.

Has Honig always been sustainable?

What are some of the changes that have taken place at Honig?

Yes. Our President, Michael Honig, has been involved with the Napa Green program through the Napa Valley Vintners Association for a number of years. He helped write the Code of Sustainable Practices for the Wine Institute and was instrumental in developing the first sustainable certifications for California wineries. In the Honig vineyard we keep cover crops planted to provide a natural

source of nutrients and microbial organisms for soil health. We limit our water usage in our vineyards and keep bird boxes on the property, (primarily for bluebirds), which help to control pests. Honig, along with other properties, has given up acreage along its western edge to a river restoration project along the Napa River. In terms of what’s done at the winery, Honig has fair employee practices; great employee benefits, and encourages the staff to participate in maintaining a healthy environment for all. We carpool, recycle, use less energy and water and, in general we aim for energy efficiency. Since 2006 we have been 100% Solar.

through the Wine Institute. This makes up 70% of California’s vineyard acreage and 65% of wine production. Recent statistics for participants in Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing (CCSW-Certified) show that there are 30 organizations - a total of 40 wineries and 116 vineyards that have been certified. Or approximately 60,000 wine growing acres, (11.3% of the 526,000 wine growing acres in California.)

From that data that I’ve seen, about 2.5% of California’s wine grape acres are certified organic; and dozens of California wineries practices biodynamic winegrowing. It becomes difficult to track statistics for the greater US and Internationally.

Is it financially feasible for vineyards and wineries to follow the sustainable techniques?

Yes. In many cases it is actually cheaper to implement these practices and ultimately produces better wine. In terms of costs, the initial investment for some of these practices (solar, drip irrigation, lighting fixtures etc.) can be high but over time it pays for itself. Let me provide you with an example. Since 2006 Honig has saved close to $42,000 dollars a year in electric bills and over the next 30 years, and will prevent 7,500,000 pounds of Carbon Dioxide (CO2) from being released into the atmosphere. This alone is worth the one million-dollar investment for the installation of our photovoltaic system. Also, some states give rebates and tax credits when sustainable practices are implemented, further reducing the cost of the initial investment.

What are the biggest problems that you see that these vineyards face?

I would say one of the challenges is articulating to the public why these practices are important to winegrowing. In fact the conservation community at large has been challenged with bridging the gap between what the scientific community knows, and what the public understands.

Ultimately if consumers are uninformed about how these practices improve their overall experience, then they are less likely to purchase organically, sustainably, or biodynamically grown products including wine.

Do the techniques change the taste or alcohol content of the wines?

Absolutely! Healthier vines produce better quality fruit. Better quality fruit produces better quality wines, which ultimately do better on the market. In terms of alcohol content, that has more to do with the preference of the wine maker.

Can the finished product - the wine really be called organic? (because of the sulfites that are added) The short answer is NO. The National Organic program defines organic wine as “ wine made from organically grown grapes without any added sulfites.” The NOP also has a strict certification process to ensure that the final product is properly labeled.

Approximately how many vineyards in the US are organic or use sustainable farming? And how many in other countries?

Here in California, about 1,680 vintners and growers are participating in a Sustainable Wine Growing program

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 63

Ruth’s Chris Steak House

6120 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 761-0055 www.RuthsChris.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia

Blackened Sea Scallops with Cajun Béarnaise paired with Ch. St. Michelle “ Eroica” Riesling Bright mandarin orange and aromatic lime nuances permeate Chateau St. Michelle’s “Eroica” Riesling. A Washington State wine with the Loosen pedigree, Eroica’s bright fruit and delicate acidity complement the roasted pepper and piquant flavor of the sweet and buttery blackened scallops. Sautéed Baby spinach and roasted bell pepper make the scallops a substantial offering, “perfectly paired” with this crisp, fruitforward wine.

Twin Filets with Stuffed Shrimp paired with Penley Estate “Phoenix” Cabernet With a meatier entrée, like our twin filets with crabmeat stuffed shrimp, the most obvious choice is Cabernet Sauvignon. Penley Estate’s “Phoenix” cabernet is saturated with rich blackberry and mulberry fruit, a trademark of ripe, Coonwara Cabernets. The cedar oak and chocolate spice finish of this particular Cab harmonizes temptingly well with the tender medallions, generous stuffed shrimp and a drizzle of savory Cajun béarnaise sauce 64 Cor k It

2011

AROUND THE VINE

A Grape Odyssey…

The Twomey Perspective



by Ben Cane

This is where the art and science of winemaking come together - the taste and experience. This is what everything comes down to - how does it taste? What are the nuances? Is it what you expected? Is it life altering - or merely passable?? It’s all in the opinion of the consumer - Salute!

you decide when it’s ripe and it’s time to pick?

BEN: You can grade each level of ripeness in the fruit.

First, it comes down to how easy the berry comes off the stem, and then how easy it is to pop the fruit in your mouth. Then you look at the seed. If the pulp is still sticking it means the grape is still a little under ripe, the pulp should be fully liquefied and juicy.. But if the seed is quite brown, that is good. That means the tannins are developing.

ALLISON: If the seed was brown and no pulp, then it would be perfect – correct?

ALLISON: It’s truly special to be at Twomey, during first crush, learning what winemaking is about - what goes into it, how and where everything happens. Ben Cane, winemaker (and great pal of mine), answers my questions by discussing the harvest and knowing when to pick the grapes.

BEN: First crush is the start of harvest, when we decide to pick the first grapes. The first pinot noir we received was in fact from our coolest site, but due to low yields and favorable conditions, was the first vineyard to be both flavor and physiologically ripe.

BEN: In a year like this it’s really difficult to get all the parameters right – it tastes ripe – yes - but we always pick them by taste. I always taste the skins. The seed plays some role in the fermentation, but the skin is where the flavor is, where the aromatics are and where the color comes from. Grapes for wine always have seeds in them – they are not seedless in their normal ripe form.

After we pick, the fruit is fed onto the conveyer where the bunches are sorted to remove any imperfect fruit.The fruit then drops onto a shaker table, where the raisins and the green grapes are shaken through tiny slots as they bounce their way along to be de-stemmed. More sorters remove any leaves or substandard fruit to ensure only the best grapes make it into the tank. The de-stemmer then gently removes the stems by small beaters and a vibrating action which ensures the fruit stays whole when it arrives in the tank.

ALLISON: We move on to the lab where we learn about the “scientific” part of winemaking.

BEN: We measure sugar in % by volume called Brix (pronounced Bricks). We aim to pick Pinot between 22 and 24.5 Brix and Sauvignon Blanc between 21.5 and 23.5 Brix to retain freshness and have better balance in the wines. We aim for lower alcohols of between 13-14% in Pinot Noir and 12.5-13.5% alcohol in

We usually take 5 berries, and chew separating the seeds from the pulp and skins. And we pick from different areas of the vine, different bunches in differing positions on the vine. We then chew the skins 15 times, and spit the juice out, not very eloquent – and then one looks at the color. You can start to see that the color is breaking down, and that is what you want to see; the skin cells are breaking down and

ALLISON: How does communication occur in the field between the winemaking/viticulture team even when one is in a different site?

BEN: We undertook a French berry physiology course; we had a French specialist come over and were taught how to taste the berry and be able to speak in the same language in describing differing facets of ripeness (eg skin, seed and pulp ripeness). So if I’m here and a colleague is in Napa Valley, and I want to tell them about what I’m tasting and seeing we can all be on the same page. We are doing this because it helps with the communication between the winemakers and grower liaison officer within the vineyards, to determine condition of fruit and timing of picking.

ALLISON: Talk to us about the grapes and how

beginning to relinquish their color. We look at the ripeness of tannins, the grip and friction it creates in the mouth and whether the aromas and fruit flavors are in the ripeness window we are looking to achieve.

Sauvignon Blanc. Twomey aims to make food friendly wines which express a sense of place, are delicious and indeed yummy, and have that more-ish character. We always want a customer to be reaching for another glass as the wine is so irresistible

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 65



AROUND THE VINE

Oxygen can promote spoilage by allowing unwanted yeast and bacteria to begin fermenting the available sugars before we are ready for the ferment to progress. The use of sulfur helps to scavenge and bind oxygen and prevent the unwanted metabolizing of sugar to create off flavors or aromas. We control this by keeping temperatures low which can inhibit activity of these spoilage organisms. When we are ready to start, some natural fermentation takes place and helps to build the complexity of the wine. The saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast is what is highly desired to conduct fermentation as it creates positive aromas and flavors, and creates the fine wines of the world Now let’s look at Sauvignon Blanc Production.

These grapes were picked early this morning, we tip them straight into the press and squeeze them as whole bunches so as to maximize freshness and minimize oxidation through contact with the skins and seeds. By pressing the SB cold, there is less tannin pick up and by conducting a very soft press, we can remove the juice from the skins as quickly as possible, get it in the tank and protect the aromatics and flavors with a small sulfur dioxide addition.

ALLISON: We move down the winemaking – to the first press!!

line

of

more acidity, lengthening the character, whilst the pressings can give more width in the mid palate, creating texture and richness.

ALLISON: What happens during fermentation?

green. Malic Acid for Sauvignon Blanc gives it the appley flavor; It almost tastes like green apple in the first process of the squeezing of the grapes. Then it is sent to the tank to settle and clarify where the sulfur is added to preserve freshness and fruit characters. This gives a much cleaner appearance to the juice. . Enzymes also help to clarify the juice by breaking down protein compounds, so we can decant or rack off the majority of the solids and have a fairly clear juice to ferment.

Now the juice from the harder pressing actually looks like wine, is yellow in color, looks smoother, and you can’t smell the sulfur anymore, even though it’s still processing. This is the pressings and, after some refining to reduce phenolics and color, can give the blend some great palate weight in the front and mid-palate plus some good flavor characteristics.

With Sauvignon Blanc, the flavor comes from skins, just like Pinot Noir, and thus, the higher pressure cycles can give some excellent characteristics. One wants the press component as part of a blend because it can give so many aromatics and flavor. The aromatics may come from the skins, but doesn’t give the length. The length of palate comes from free run; delivering more fruit,

By pressing at low pressures and allowing the juice to drain out through the slots, we can remove the maximum amount of juice with minimal mixing up of the skins and seeds, giving us the purest and best balanced juice known as the Free Run. This is usually 120-130Gal/ Ton. We then rotate the press to break up the skins and must, and we are able to remove a further 40-50Gal/Ton known as the pressings which can have some very positive flavors but can also have some phenolics or tannins which are undesirable in fresh crisp whites. This portion still forms an important component but requires a little fining to remove the tannins and excess color.

ALLISON: It’s brown and sedimenty looking and I’m about to drink it!

BEN: The phenolics or tannins bind with oxygen and go brown. These later fall out to help form the lees and the wines is clear and bright

66 Cor k It

BEN: Fermentation is the 3rd process. During ferment, especially with white wine, you pick up a lot of esters. Yeast creates esters, and it tastes carbonated, like sparkling wine right now. You can taste banana, pineapple, it looks like orange, pineapple juice. CO2 (carbon dioxide) and alcohol are some of the biproducts of fermentation.

Our fermentation process happens at 55 deg, to retain the fresh fruit characters, which can blow off at higher ferment temperatures.

ALLISON: Talk to us about your barrels.

BEN: Our barrels are from France and cost from $900 - $1200 each and we use them for 4-5 years.

Our barrels are made of oak and we source them from the finest cooperages in France preferring the Allier and Troncais forests and 3 year seasoned wood.

We like to ferment in 3 different vessels. The first are the oak barrels in both 225L (barrique) and 500L (puncheon) versions. The wood allows for development of more secondary characters like cream and brioche and is used for mouthfeel componentry to deliver richness and texture to the palate. The stainless steel tank ferments help to retain the fresh fruit notes and the steely acid skeleton and then we use stainless steel drums, which are the same size as the smaller barrels. These give characters somewhere in between: some fresh fruit but also the rich creaminess from

AROUND THE VINE

the lees contact. The blend of all 3 gives not only great fruit characters but excellent secondary complexing notes as well as texture and richness.

ALLISON: Let’s talk Pinot BEN: We work with over a dozen vineyards in 5 viticultural areas up to 8 hours’ drive apart to create 4 wines in the Twomey stable. I like to keep all the clones separate from each site so I have as many colors to paint with as possible once we come to blending time.

You have only seen the start of the pinot process with our sorting stage. We tip the bins of all the sorted and de-stemmed grapes into the top of the open fermenters (an open tank designed to allow manual pushing down or punching down of the cap of skins that form during fermentation). I like to include usually between 10-30% whole bunches into my pinot ferments to give more complexing characters and some differing tannin structures and mouthfeel. This year due to the longer ripening periods, I don’t feel I will benefit from the inclusion of whole bunches and have thus only included them into 3 of a total of 35 lots of pinot.

carbonic maceration. In the absence of oxygen the yeasts within the berry are able to create very intense fruit characters and I call this the primary stage of our fermentation process. Then skins begin to break down and release their colors into solution and all the goodies are becoming available for the yeast to start doing their important work. On the 7th day we warm up the tanks to between 65-70F and the natural yeasts which exist in each site, begin to ferment.

We employ a combination of gentle pump overs (where we keep the top of the must fresh by splashing juice over it) and punch downs by hand. When the yeasts do their job, the carbon dioxide lifts the skins to the surface of the tank and we gently plunge the skins back into the liquid up to 3 times per day. This ensures we are able to capture all the flavors and aromatics from the skins with the aid of the ferment heat, and by conducting this manually, we can control the structure we are building in the wine. The wine will stay on skins anywhere from 14-21 days.



to include light pressings directly back into the holding tank as I believe you create for of a complete wine in structure and complexity with some essential components coming from lightly pressed skins. We then fill a selection of French oak barrels using between 30-50% new oak with the balance made up of 1-3 year old barrels, all by gravity so as to be gentle as possible with the resulting wine. In here each lot will undergo malolactic fermentation where the harsher malic acid is converted to the softer, creamier lactic acid by a carefully chosen malolactic bacteria. The wines will then sit on their lees for the next 12-15 months until we decide to blend them into our 4 wines and bottle in the December of the following year. We usually lightly filter for clarity and then further age the wines for another 6 months before release in bottle.

At Twomey, we are aiming to make food friendly wines which are reflective of the area they derive from, which develop in the bottle for many years to come, but which are delicious and are accessible upon release. These are finely crafted wines of great character, which are true expressions of place delivering the consumer a fine accompaniment to a wide range of food to enhance the senses. We are very proud to offer great pinot noir from amazing vineyards in the finest growing areas across California, and I hope you feel they are as “yummy” as we do!

We will then drain the wine off to a holding tank and press the must in a press and employ a program with no rotations to emulate a gentle basket press action. I tend

We conduct a 6-7 day cold soak where we hold the must at 45F and keep oxygen out by blanketing with CO2 and argon. This stage allows the whole berries to begin to ferment inside themselves known as

A Grape Odyssey… The Twomey Perspective www. MemphisCor kIt.com 67



AROUND THE VINE

Bordeaux

By Frederic Koeppel

Do you ever pause at the rack of Big Name Bordeaux wines at the liquor store and think, “Someday, when my ship comes in, when the cards fall right, when the Fates smile upon me, I’ll buy a bottle of First Growth Bordeaux that costs $900.”

Right, my friend, and Lady Gaga will sing Tosca at La Scala.

The problem is that Bordeaux, in the world of fine wine and connoisseurship, is a name with which to conjure our collective and idealistic images of rare old bottles, classic vintages stretching back to the late 18th Century, a millennium of mercantile history, wooden cases of wine resting quietly in cool cellars carved from the deep-delved earth; in short, Bordeaux in what great, longlived, swoon-inducing wine is all about.

Such greatness comes at a cost, and through the 1990s and the first decade of the 21st Century, the prices of Bordeaux’s most prestigious wines, the Classified Growths of the Medoc and St.Emilion and the wines of Pomerol (which has no classification system), have risen to dizzying heights where only American CEOs and Asian magnates dare open their wallets without the aid of oxygen tanks.

The wines of those renowned chateaus, however – including Mouton-Rothschild, Lafite-Rothschild, Margaux, Latour, HautBrion, Petrus, Ausone, Cheval-Blanc and others – represent only about five percent of the total production of Bordeaux, which is actually a vast and diverse region that counts 57 appellations within its geographical limits. Bordeaux has more than 8,000 vinegrowers, many of whom sell their grapes or wines to cooperatives and many others that make and market their own wines as their families have done for generations. These wines generally cost about $15 to $25, with a few going up to $30 and some coming in under $15.

68 Cor k It

Are such wines sublime? Do they, at least metaphorically, compel one to kneel as at an altar and thank Bacchus and all his pards for the privilege of having sipped?

No, they do not, but one cannot drink such sublime and expensive wines every day anyway. (I know, in your dreams.) What these wines can provide in good years – and I’m thinking specifically of Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC – is dependability, solid classically-styled and proportioned depth and dimension and, at their best, the true character of their primary constituent grapes, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. (Petit verdot and malbec are employed to a lesser extent.) Come to think of it, such qualities offer plenty of room for thanks, which the Bordelaise do with abundance.

I was in Bordeaux during the last week of September, visiting mainly small, family-run chateaus in Entre-Deux-Mers that produce red and white Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur wines. Though the name means “between two seas,” Entre-Deux-Mers is a wide and typologically varied region that lies between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers; it narrows to a point where those rivers meet to form the broad Gironde estuary, which flows in a northwest direction to the Atlantic. AOC stands for Appellation d’Origine Côntrolée, indicating that a grape-growing and winemaking area conforms to certain statutes laid down by the INAO, the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine, established in 1935 and taxed with regulating (in great detail) some 470 wines and spirits as well as other agricultural products.

Just as it would be unthinkable to have a meal in Bordeaux (or any other winemaking region in France) without wine, so would it be unthinkable to begin lunch or dinner in Bordeaux without a platter of charcuterie to pass around and equally unthinkable not to partake, before dessert, of three or four different types of cheese. The Bordelaise love beef, especially their local variety

AROUND THE VINE

Blonde d’Aquitaine; during my too-brief five days in Entre-DeuxMers, I probably ate beef six or seven times – once cooked over an open fire in a fireplace -- and it was usually superb. All of these products – charcuterie, beef, cheese – seem to testify to why the red wine of Bordeaux was born.

The differences between Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC are matters of degrees. Bordeaux Supérieur red wine is supposed to be made from older vines (though the age is unspecified in the regulations) and aged for 12 months; it must finish with a minimum of 10.5 percent alcohol, as opposed to the minimum of 10 percent for “regular” Bordeaux, though the reality is that almost all the wines produced from both appellations vary from about 11.5 to 13.5 percent. The “Supérieur” designation does not mean that the wine is inherently “better” or “superior” to a wine that carries a plainer “Bordeaux” designation; the implication, however, is that because the rules are slightly more demanding, the possibility exists that a Bordeaux Supérieur wine would display more character and be capable of aging for four or five years.

An appellation can be both a wine and a delimited area.

Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC can be made anywhere within the defined borders of the vast Bordeaux region. A Pauillac wine cannot be made anywhere except in the commune of Pauillac; a chateau in Pauillac could, however, in theory, declassify a harvest – it would have to be a pretty bad harvest -- and turn it into Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Supérieur AOC. This would have to be done before the wine was made; Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC are not dumping grounds for mediocre wine decided after the fact.

Many of the wines I tasted in September in Bordeaux are available in the United States in small quantities, principally in the Northeast and the West Coast. Locally, though, we have



seen lately an influx of Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC wines from several vintages being sold at reasonable prices. They offer the opportunity to serve a wine at dinner of which you can tell your guests,“Oh, it’s an alluring little Bordeaux that I picked up for a song.” Good years for reds are 2005, ’06, ’08 and ’09; for whites, 2009 and ‘10 Here are a few recommendations for locally available red wines, which will be particularly attractive with the hearty braised dishes of Autumn and Winter: *Chateau Vrai Caillou 2009, Bordeaux Supérieur. Firm structure, layers of black and red fruit; walnut shell, briers, leather; dusty tannins and graphite; details of potpourri and bitter chocolate, tobacco leaf and tomato skin; dense and intense, vibrant acidity. Now through 2015 or ’16. About $15-$16. *Chateau de Parenchère 2008, Bordeaux Supérieur. This estate dates back to 1570. Warm and spicy; black currants and plums highlighted by cloves and mocha, cedar and tobacco, lavender and potpourri; galloping tannins spreading dust and leather, velvet and iron. Now through 2015 or ’16. About $16. *Chateau Haut Nadeau 2006, Bordeaux Supérieur. Another warm and spicy red, but with a definite granite-graphite-like edge and depths of dusty, earthy tannins; this has its attractions but even at five years is the most closed of the wines, though try it with a steak to bring out the ripeness and flavors. Now through 2014 to ’17. About $24. *Chateau Senailhac 2005, Bordeaux Supérieur. A nicely mature classic, with spicy black currant and black cherry scents and flavors accented with cedar and tobacco, black olive and thyme; it’s dense and chewy without being heavy, and it packs an acid lash that cuts a swath on the palate. Now through 2014 or ’15. Great for the price, about $19.

Fredric Koeppel is proprietor of the award-winning wine blog, biggerthanyourhead.net.

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 69

Wines & Spirits

Mike Sanford, Lynn Hays, Ryan Poston

366 New Byhalia Rd Collierville, TN 38017 901-853-2211 Mon - Thurs 9am - 9pm Fri - Sat 9am - 11pm

find us on facebook

Visit Memphis Cork It online!

Featuring every local wine event you don’t want to miss. Keep your schedule packed with tastings, dinners and terrific charitable events around town!

See the magazine online and preview up and coming new advertisers in our area.

Stay up-to-date with the latest wine and food related happenings on the blog!

www.MemphisCorkIt.com ••• Find us on Facebook @ Memphis Cork It ~ Magazine

learn. experience. love.

70 Cor k It

Chateau Montelena Winery 1429 Tubbs Lane • Calistoga, CA 94515 • www.Montelena.com

Winemaker - Bo Barrett Retail Sales & Hospitality - Jennifer Ryan Retail Sales & Hospitality - Christine Amey

A stunning, rustic French Chateau, dating back well over 100 years, Chateau Montelena was started by Alfred Tubbs. In 1958, The Frank family (Yort and Jeanie Frank) took over. Under the leadership of Jim Barrett, Chateau Montelena released their first wines in 1972.

Jim’s son, Bo, now leads the winemaking team. Today the winery was bustling with people; always busy, I hear. Several Chateau Montelena tasting room staff helped us navigate through the many wines available for us to try.

Chardonnay Napa 2009

this is what they suggested for us: Riesling, Potter Valley 2010

Classic

Chardonnay

hue

of

pale

golden straw. White peach, orange Bright golden straw color in the glass, shows

blossoms and smells of a slight hint of

layers of floral notes - orange blossom and

toasted almonds. Palate is soft and

honeysuckle, along with ripe orange, lime,

fleshy and loaded with bright citrus

apricot, and white melon fruits. Soft, round and

tones of sweet mandarin and Meyer

fleshy on the palate, there are layers of white

lemon,

peach, apricot, white melon.

tropical notes of guava, pineapple, and

white

nectarine

and

rich

lychee – all complemented by subtle sweet oak. Delicate smoothness to this

Cabernet Sauvignon, Montelena Estate 2007

Chardonnay

Yum! Huge powerful nose, layer of spice, cedar, earth, and tobacco – all over a rich base of ripe black cherry, black currants, cassis, and blueberry jam. The hook is set with the first whiff. Rich, round, juicy and mouth-coating, the palate delivers black cherry and black currant before moving on to brighter red fruits. More subtle

Zinfandel, Montelena Estate 2007

tones of butterscotch, anise. Spicy finish.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2006

This Zinfandel has a very pleasing, bright, clean

This wine offers rich, complex aromas

ruby color. The nose is loaded with interest,

of ripe dark cherry, sweet chocolate,

from tobacco and cedar-spice box to classic

cinnamon, pie spice, and leather, with

Zinfandel briar-berry and bright strawberry on

top notes of rose and forest floor. In

top. With a soft entry, the palate builds to a

the mouth this wine makes a full soft

big, jammy mid-palate rich with barrel spice,

round entry. Loads of fine grain tannin

clean tart blackberry, and velvety tannins

completes the mouthfeel, with berry

throughout. Sweet vanilla notes lead into a

patch, fruit stand flavors dominating.

smooth, ripe berry finish with hints of passion

Nice notes of clove and toasted oak

fruit.

round it out. www. MemphisCor kIt.com 71

1

11/11/11

2:37 PM

©2011 CFY Catering, LLC. Tuna Spoons photo by Studio J. Caprese Bites photo by Jennifer Dickerson. Main photo by Bill McCullough Photography.

cork_ad.pdf

FOOD SO GOOD, NO ONE WILL NOTICE THE TYPO ON SLIDE SIX.

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

CFY Catering, LLC is dedicated to making your event truly memorable.

We specialize in couture catering, allowing us to create a unique dining experience that is reflective of you. We believe food should be entertaining, hors d’oeuvres whimsical, dinners classic, and every event different from the last.

Tuna Spoons

Caprese Bit es

CFY Catering, LLC • 901-213-4514 • cfycatering.com

Follow us:

Don’t over think….just drink!

When it comes to food and wine pairings, most people make it more complicated than necessary.

If you are preparing a meal at home for yourself or enjoying a dinner at a restaurant, avoid getting overwhelmed by the complexity of the dish. Instead, identify certain basic characteristics. There are three keys to every dish that can make it easier to select a wine. You want to look at: the ingredients, the cooking method, and the sauce or sides. By breaking down the meal, you can focus on each component.

Characteristics of the wine you should focus on are: acidity, sweetness, tannin, oak, and alcohol.

• With oak, match the flavors of the wine with cooking techniques like grilling, smoking, and caramelizing. You can also look to accent the oak with nuts and sweet spices or rich and textured sauces.

• The final characteristic to pay attention to is alcohol. The higher the alcohol content the more likely the wine will be full bodied. Make sure the wine’s weight lines up with the dish

• The most important factor in pairing wine with food is acidity.

Acid in a wine can cut rich, fatty and oily dishes. Acidic wines are also “friends” with tart foods.

There are so many options when it comes to food and wine pairings. Just remember that this isn’t exact. When creating a wine dinner for a client at CFY Catering, we often use this exact approach when selecting food and wine for the menu.

• When eating something spicy, a wine with a little sweetness can counter balance the heat.

By Kevin Bush Director of Operations, CFY Catering, LLC.

• As for those tannins, they play nicely with bitter foods or fat laden protein, such as a grilled rib-eye.

72 Cor k It

Sweet Grass

937 South Cooper Street, Memphis TN 38104 (901) 278-0278 www.SweetGrassMemphis.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia

Duck with Butternut squash Flan, Asparagus and a Honey-Thyme reduction; paired with Ferrari Carano Tresor.

As the duck is one of our most requested dishes it seemed natural for this pairing, we prefer the duck with a soft Cabernet based blend from Ferrari Carano, namely their “Tresor�. The initial impact of currant and wild blueberry are a great compliment to the taste of the duck, and the floral, fruit forward nose is only accented by the sweet aromas of the herbs in the sauce. The silked tannin and subtlest use of oak are helpful in seamlessly pulling together the richness of the flan, the uniqueness of the asparagus all while not overpowering the softly sweet honey.

for dinner

Tuna with fried oysters, Carolina mustard BBQ sauce and ham butter paired with the Twomey sauvignon blanc Twomey pairs well with the tuna because its light citrus notes and beautifully balanced acidity cut the richness of both the tuna and the sauces that accompany it.

and stay to party

937 SOUTH COOPER STREET | MEMPHIS, TN 38104 ( 9 0 1 ) 2 7 8 - 0 2 7 8 | W W W. S W E E T G R A S S M E M P H I S . C O M www. MemphisCor kIt.com 73

MEMPHIS RESTAURANT WINE RESOURCE GUIDE

Restaurant

Wine Director/ Sommelier

Number of Number of Selections Selections

by Glass

by Bottle

Price Range $

Corkage Fee

Cuisine Style

Amerigo

1239 Ridgeway Road, Memphis TN (901) 761-4000 www.Amerigo.net

Andrew Fischer

41

25

9 glass 42 bottle

$10

Italian

Andrew Ticer, Michael Hudman

55

31

50 bottle

$10

Fresh perspective on traditional Italian

Rebecca Severs

100

30

38 bottle

$15

Southeastern Italian primarily from Puglia

Glenn Hays

43

18

24-42 bottle

$10

Bistro with a mix of French, Italian, New Orleans/Caribbean

Ed Parramore

47

39

9 glass

none

Italian

Jay Turney

125

30

9-13 glass 40-65 bottle

$15

French Global

Alex Grisanti

57

27

6-11 glass 32-150 bottle

$20

Northern Italian with a modern twist

John Condy

187

46

36-669 bottle

$10

French Continental

Aubri Luckey

100

100+

6.50-24 glass 26-325 bottle

$20

Prime Steakhouse & Seafood

Carlos Sejas

300+

50

10 glass

$18

USDA Prime Steaks, chops, and fresh seafood

Terry Allen

100+

50

28-200 bottle

$10

Southern American and European Cuisines

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen 712 West Brookhaven Circle, Memphis TN (901) 347-3569 www.AndrewMichaelItalianKitchen.com

Bari Ristorante

22 S Cooper, Memphis TN (901) 722-2244 www.BariMemphis.com

Cafe 1912

243 S. Cooper, Memphis, TN (901) 722-2700 www.Cafe1912.com

Carrabba’s Italian Grill

5110 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 685-9900 www.Carrabbas.com

Circa by John Bragg

6150 Poplar Avenue, Mempis, TN (901) 746-9130 www.CircaMemphis.com

Elfo’s Restaurant

2285 S Germantown Rd, Germantown, TN (901) 753-4017 www.ElfosRestaurant.com

Erling Jensen

1044 South Yates Road, Memphis, TN (901) 763-3700 www.EJensen.com

Fleming’s Steakhouse

6245 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 761-6200 www.FlemingsSteakhouse.com/ Memphis

Folks Folly Prime Steakhouse 551 South Mendenhall Road, Memphis TN (901) 762-8200 www.FolksFolly.com

The Grove Grill

4550 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 818-9951 www.TheGroveGrill.com

74 Cor k It

MEMPHIS RESTAURANT WINE RESOURCE GUIDE

Restaurant

Wine Director/ Sommelier

Number of Number of Selections Selections

by Glass

by Bottle

Interim Restaurant and Bar

5040 Sanderlin, Memphis, TN (901) 818-0821 www.InterimRestaurant.com

Price Range $

Corkage Fee

Cuisine Style

$15

New American with emphasis on fresh fish and local produce and products

Michael Luckey

93

40

7.5-16 glass 30-215 bottle

Ronnie Powell

46

28

9 glass

$12

Authentic Greek / Steaks and Seafood

James Taras

60

32

24-125 bottle

$15

American / Greek

Bill Baker

over 100

40

7 glass

$15

Fine Causal / Bistro

Bert Smythe

90

34

37 bottle 8 glass

$10

Contemporary with Southern Influence

Rusty Prudhon

140

20-25

35-50 bottle

$15

American

Beata Sulecka

92

17

24 and up bottle 9 glass

$15

Continental and French

Kevin Johnson

277

40

32-399 bottle 8-29 glass

$15

Classic American Steakhouse

Jeff Goggans

38

26

24-105 bottle 6.50-11.50 glass

$8

Low country

Jim’s Place Restaurant and Bar 518 Perkins Road Extended, Memphis TN (901) 766-2030 www.JimsPlaceMemphis.com

Jim’s Place Grille

3660 S. Houston Levee Road, Collierville, TN (901) 861-5000 www.JimsPlaceGrille.com

Le Chardonnay Wine Bar & Bistro Restaurant

2094 Madison Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 725-1375 www.LaChardonnayRestaurant.com

McEwen’s

120 Monroe Ave, Memphis TN (901) 527-7085 www.McewensOnMonroe.com

Napa Cafe

5101 Sanderlin Ave # 122, Memphis, TN (901) 683-0441 www.NapaCafe.com

Paulette’s

50 Harbor Town Square Memphis, TN (901) 260-3300 www.RiverInnMemphis.com

Ruth’s Chris Steak House 6120 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 761-0055 www.RuthsChris.com

Sweet Grass

937 South Cooper Street, Memphis TN (901) 278-0278 www.SweetGrassMemphis.com

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 75

SIDE BAR “Wine is made to be drunk as women are made to be loved; profit by the freshness of youth or the splendor of maturity: do not await decrepitude.”

-Theophile Malvezin All things wine related but that don’t involve pouring juice into the glass, these make me feel better the next day…

76 Cor k It

SIDE BAR



Time in a bottle

by Elias Fernandez, Winemaker, Shafer Vineyards

For reasons completely lost on me, New Years inspires a lot of talk of

If your News Years resolution is to start cellaring wine, here are a few

self-improvement. Otherwise reasonable people buy complicated

basics you may find helpful.

Scandinavian exercise gear or sign up for language classes they’ll attend once. In the world of wine, the resolution I hear most often has

What happens to wine as it ages? If you periodically check an aging

to do with getting serious about cellaring wines.

Cabernet under a microscope, over a period of years you’d see molecules of phenolics joining together to create ever-larger chains.

If you’re making this promise to yourself, consider something first. You

Phenolics are the chemical group that makes up pigment (color) and

may be someone who genuinely prefers young wines. I read recently

tannins. Eventually these chains get so bulky they settle out of the

that 95 percent of all wine is uncorked in the year it’s released. Most

liquid. At that point you no longer need a microscope. It’s sediment.

Americans like their wines youthful – tannic and big, with fruit flavor that pops.

The wine takes on a lighter color and the mouthfeel grows softer.

Also, the flavor profile changes. A one-note fruit bomb can flood your

But perhaps you’ve tried a few older vintages and discovered you do

palate with complex flavors.

in fact love that transition wine makes from two-dimensional brawny fruit to complex subtleties of leather, dried rose pedal and cigar box.

What wines should you age? Price isn’t a reliable guide for choosing which wines to lay down. The better option is to quiz someone at a

My first taste of a classic, carefully cellared wine was almost life

local, reputable wine shop. They can listen to your preferences and

changing. While attending University of California – Davis, on Friday

steer you toward wineries that have a track record for producing age-

nights a group of friends in the winemaking program got together

worthy wines.

to taste the wines of the world. On one of these evenings, someone brought a bottle of a 1961 Burgundy. I can’t remember the name

Should you purchase a temperature-controlled storage unit? Yes,

on the label, but I still vividly recall a moment of wow. The aromatic

unless you have access to a basement where temperatures are a

complexity, the softness, the beauty of it knocked me out. And for the

consistent 55 - 58 degrees. (Sorry, your hall closet is not a good option

first time, I realized that there was more to winemaking than growing

for long-term aging.)

grapes and getting your fermentation right.

Ultimately, I think the best way to learn about aging wine is to buy a This is the kind of Holy Grail moment that lovers of older wine live for. It’s

case or two of something you love. Drink a bottle every few years to

why we have cellars or pay to store wines under controlled conditions

enjoy how it changes. You can take notes, but believe me, the best

of temperature and humidity.

ones are unforgettable.

•

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 77



SIDE BAR

Newman Farm

Interview with Mark Newman

How long have you been on the farm in Missouri with the Berkshire pigs?

We have done this for approximately 20 years.

Is it a family business?

It is, my wife, Rita, and myself run the farm now. And our kids all grew up on the farm. Three of them are involved directly in agriculture, one is involved indirectly, and one isn’t involved at all.

What and how many animals are on your farm?

The only thing we raise is Berkshire Pork, and we don’t have a large number of animals and we never intend to have a large number.

Why Berkshire Pork? What makes that so special?

We want to produce a product that has a distinctly bold flavor that is different and where the animal has been raised humanely and outdoors. Berkshire is of a darker color, it has a little more red color to it, more like what beef is; it is not necessarily “pork the other white meat”. Berkshire has always been called the lard breed. We use the terminology very freely that “fat is back”. If you have a super lean animal, then you have a product that has lost a tremendous amount of its flavor. In all your species of animals, all protein tastes the same; it’s the fat of the breeds that make the flavor of that product.

Berkshire was basically a lost breed up until the early 1990’s. In the late 90’s into early 2000’s we basically shipped pork to Japan. I always said there had to be a better market – if we could ever get the consumer of America to follow that there was pork that had a bolder flavor, then we could build a cliental in the States. There are many people raising Berkshire’s now, not many that raise them the way we do, but Berkshire pork has become very popular in America.

Why do you raise 100% purebred Berkshire?

Well, the heritage of the breeds of all the pig and the cattle brands are really being lost, and I think that if you’re going to call something Heritage then it needs to be of the original Heritage Breeds. And we have been able to capture and retain some of the old line genetics that went back prior to the 1980’s and the animals being genetically modified. In the commodity market today it’s a totally white pig, and they have been genetically modified somewhat like the corn and soybeans of America have been.

78 Cor k It

Why do you raise your pigs Certified Humane?

We got into this thing way back before the big movement was started.

What we needed to have was a third party verifier that said we did what we said we did. So I went to DC and talked to Adele Douglas, she had started Humane Farm Animal Care (HFAC), probably in very early 2000. It was a food based group and that’s where it needed to be. And it is only science based. So many people get an emotional attitude toward this. So we didn’t need emotion or politics tied up in the certification. And we didn’t need to change anything we were doing to meet their standards. We have been antibiotic free for 15 years. We raise the pig totally 100% outdoors, which is way different than most do, Even with the Heritage Breeds, you have a lot of cross breeding and you have a lot of commodity pork in America that is labeled natural or Heritage - and I personally feel there has to be a standard. I’m not saying we are the standard of the industry, but Heritage is the new word and it’s being used everywhere and used very freely.

How many local Memphis restaurants do you sell to?

Probably around in excess of 40 in some way, shape or form. We are after people who are looking for a more fine dining type of atmosphere, not bbq.

10 years ago when we were going up and down the road trying to get the Midwest to buy pork from a small family farm, it was just a dead end. But in Manhattan, we did a tremendous amount of business, and from there we went to San Francisco and then to the Napa Valley. But back about 5-6 years ago there was a new chef at the Peabody Hotel, Reinaldo Alfonso. He called us and wanted to come up and visit the farm. And he came up and said he wanted to use this product at the Peabody in Memphis. And from there it started the movement. We also do a pretty good mail order supply of customers across the nation on a weekly basis.

And how many farmers markets?

We do the downtown farmers market in Memphis in the summer. And then we participate with about a dozen other producers in doing the market in Tsunami on Cooper Avenue in midtown. We do that one in the winter.

And I wonder why don’t we run them year round, there are a lot of cities in America that have year round markets? Or start in March and go to the first of the year. In the Memphis area the climate is where we could do the farmers markets year round. The customer doesn’t want to buy this product just in the summer, they want it year round.

SIDE BAR

What do consumers need to know about Newman Farm?

I think the consumer has to be more aware, not just about us; the consumer I deal with across the country and across the Mid-South – they are wanting to have more of a connection to the people that are raising their food. The chefs in New York, Mario Batali, and Alice Waters on the West Coast, they know the people that raise their tomatoes, and their lettuce, just as well as they know the people that raise their pork, beef or lamb. So just be aware of where it’s raised, how it’s raised.

The problem with the small farms, like us, it’s very hard to make a profit. In the way that we raise the animal, it takes a couple months longer to get the animal to market, and the breeds we use are not as prolific so the litter size is smaller. But in what we do, it’s all about that satisfaction with the end consumer.

Where do you see the farm to fork movement going in the next 5 or 10 years?

That’s a very good question. We have rolled in on this thing, the farm to fork movement, with slow foods across America. In the future I think there needs to be a new group. I think with the help of the farmers and the help of the chefs, where the farmers donate product and the chefs donate some of their time, and we are able to do 5-7 course dinners for $20 for lots of kids from ages 8-15, get them exposed to not only fine dining and the good food, but they also learn where does a fork go, learn manners, and not just sit in front of a TV and eat. I think Memphis has some young kids that are some really adventuresome eaters.

The two guys that really think outside the box are Andy and Mike at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, and today we have a lot of great ones – Mac Edwards at Elegant Farmer is probably the one in Memphis that does the best job of supporting the idea and knowing where his food comes from. And Felicia Suzanne and many, many others, Ryan Trimm of Sweet Grass. They are all great supporters of farm to fork. And all of them buy our product.

Do you think the farm to fork concept and knowing where your food comes from; is that an important concept for our food supply?

That’s kind of a trick question. The people that are really interested in it today are probably less than 30% of the population. And part of



them buy here and there, more of a seasonal time when there is a farmers market open. We see a lot more young people and families are more interested in where there food comes from.

Anything else you want to add?

I think in the future - it’s about education, about how the animals are raised, how there transported before slaughter, how there slaughtered, and that it’s humane and is done properly. And we’re looking for the quality of the product. But the consumer needs to be aware that there is a lot of misleading advertising about heritage breed and natural product. Pasture to me means pigs out on large acreages, running on green grass. Pasture to most people is a small mud hole in a pen that they’re raising the pigs in.

And with the way we raise the pigs, people need to come to one of our events. We show how, why it is a better quality, the amount of exercise the pigs get, so it pumps more blood through there system so it’s a more tender product and much more color in the product, more resembling beef. We have a big event every spring, but anytime someone would like to come, we are available. We have probably been toured by more of the top chefs in America than anybody else.

We are very passionate about what we do and we want to have a direct relationship not only with the chefs but also a presence where the consumer can see us. We have people here every week.

Located in the Southern Ozarks near Myrtle, Missouri

Newman Farm Mark and Rita Newman pork@newmanfarm.com 417-938-4391

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 79

from the

WAITERS STATION

“America’s Favorite

Server’s share their peeves on customers wine orders

” – Nielsen YTD ending 4/2/11

ste -michelle.com Item #323 ©2011 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Woodinville, WA 98072

Please don’t pretend to know something you do not, and if you ask my opinion you’re going to get the truth…if you want reassurance, ask for that.

- Mars

I don’t mind opening it, but I may have a hard time discussing the positive merits of the $7 bottle of wine you just brought into an expensive Steakhouse…

- Ben

Telling me you know the owners is not getting you any “extra” treatment, and by the way, that lady at the front door whose name you can’t remember… is the owner.

- Downtown

I know a whole lot about what the wine tastes like, how well it will pair with the food and can rattle off some personal stories about drinking with the winemaker; however I have not memorized the alcohol content of every wine…please don’t look disheartened.

- Mike

If you “Detest Chardonnay”… and then order a White Burgundy, you really look silly.

- Eva

80 Cor k It

Bonnie

Blue Farm Jim Tanner Interviewed by Allison Jacob

How long have you owned the farm and made cheese?

We have been on the farm for 12 years, making cheese for 7 years. In between we got the farm ready for the animals.

We spent 2 ½ years building the barn for the goats, then constructing and equipping the dairy building, and last was the cheese studio. We have recently added the cheese aging cave.

What animals and how many do you own?

We have a Jersey cow named Eileen and 75 goats. We have 2 breeds of goats that we milk for the cheese, Nubians and Saanens.

And how many cheeses do you make?

We make 3 raw milk aged cheeses, 1 Feta, 1 marinated Feta, 4 flavored Chèvre cheeses, and 2 plain Chèvre cheeses; all are goat’s milk cheeses.

How many people work with you?

We have 2 full time employees, me and Gayle (Jim’s wife); we work 16-18 hour days, 7 days a week. Dairy is definitely a life style, not a job. Where are we on Christmas Day? And Thanksgiving Day? Right here, the goats need to be milked twice a day, every single day. We do have 6 people that help us part time, at the farm and at the Farmer’s Markets. I am at the Memphis Farmer’s Market every Saturday.

Where did you live before coming to Tennessee?

We lived in Sacramento (California) where Gayle taught cheese making at the Culinary Institute of America before moving to Tennessee.

Which restaurants do you supply with your artisan cheese in the Memphis area?

We are at the Memphis Farmers Market (downtown) every Saturday, and Miss Cordelia’s also sells our cheese for those that don’t want to wait for Saturday.

The following restaurants use our products on their menu: Sweet Grass, Chez Philippe, Felicia Suzanne’s, Restaurant Iris, McEwen’s on Monroe, Interim Restaurant, Amerigo’s, Elegant Farmer, Tsunami, Itta Bena, Equestria, Buon Chibo in Hernando, and Gaylord Opryland Restaurants in Nashville.

Note: Bonnie Blue Farm is a true farmstead producing hand crafted cheese using only the milk from their dairy goats.

Their award winning cheeses are available through their website and found at several farmers markets and used at many fine restaurants in the Tennessee area. Supply is limited but they are making as much as the goats can produce. If you want to experience life on a dairy farm, they have a fully equipped log cabin for visitors to stay overnight and join in the daily farm activities.

Bonnie Blue Farm, Jim and Gayle Tanner Waynesboro, TN 931-722-4628 www.BonnieBlueFarm.com www. MemphisCor kIt.com 81

The Grove Grill

4550 Poplar avenue, Memphis TN 38117 (901) 818-9951 www.TheGroveGrill.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia

Merry Edwards, Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley 2010 paired with sautéed mahi piccata and a lemon caper buerre blanc This wine’s lite floral aroma, layered with ripe melon, peach and subtle mineral highlights with a hint of grapefruit, citrus and pear on the finish is a great match with the flaky Gulf Mahi and crisp lemon-caper butter sauce.

Magnificent Wine Company, Syrah, Columbia Valley 2008 with braised boneless short ribs, crispy polenta and red chili mole With captivating aromas of cedar, spice box, lavender, game, blueberry and pepper, this easy-to-understand Syrah is bold enough to stand up to the rich beef and slightly spiced red chili mole.

Gloria Ferrer, Blanc de Noirs, Carneros NV paired with “mini mason jar” desserts; Fuji Apple Crisp, Pumpkin Cheesecake and Pecan Pie These Three “Mason Jar Minis” are just right to end a great meal with just a little sweetness. Paired with a split bottle of sparkling wine filled with strawberry and black cherry aromas, subtle vanilla highlights, creamy cherry, lemon and cola flavors combine with a lush palate, small lively bubbles and a persistent finish.

82 Cor k It

Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2011 Ruffino Import Company, Rutherford, CA

MMG listens to your ideas to design & complete your dream project for your home or office.

Custom Kitchens, Wine Cellars & more… See our work in the “Wine Library” featured in this issue. Call 901-578-5107 for free consultation. www.memphismaintenance.com Residential or Commercial Services www. MemphisCor kIt.com 83

Darioush

Winemaker / Vineyard Manager - Steve Dewitt

4240 Silverado Trail • Napa, CA 94558 • www.Darioush.com

I think I might be in LOVE! Captivating, exotic property, combining architecture and Persian culture in California. Upon pulling into the drive, one certainly does not feel as though California is still the location. Modern, clean lines, and rich details, allow guests serenity and excitement combined. Lush landscaping, set beside lily pad filled ponds, makes for an incredibly relaxing, wine-filled morning. Darioush is also the place where I officially fell in love with wine AND cheese pairings. We were treated to a private wine and cheese pairing and I recognized what I have been missing! Amazing.

On an interesting side note, Steve Dewitt is both winemaker and vineyard manager because Darioush believes the best winemaking begins in the vineyards. A unique approach, Steve personally manages the Estate’s extensive vineyard development and all aspects of wine production.

THESE ARE THE WINES AND CHEESES:

2007 Darioush Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2009 Darioush Signature Chardonnay Napa Valley

Rich, generous and complex with dark chocolate, blackberry, and espresso. Vivid, lingering flavors of black licorice, cassis and mocha, complimented by a savory finish of lavender, cigar box and toasted hazelnut.

YUM! Vibrant key lime, orange blossom and honeysuckle aromas predominate.

2007 Darioush Signature Merlot Napa Valley

Paired with Cheese: Mt. Tam Mt. Tam, Cowgirl Creamery’s signature cheese,

Upon release, the wine is blessed

is a smooth, creamy, and elegant triple cream.

with an exceptionally graceful and

It is crafted from the tasty organic milk of the

persistent mouthfeel defined by Fuji

Straus Family Dairy. The cheese is form, yet buttery

apple and white peach. It finishes with

with a mellow, earthy flavor reminiscent of white

notes of hazelnut oil, chalk, and creamy

mushrooms. Mt. Tam won the 1st prize at the 2005

vanilla bean.

American Cheese Society Competition.

2007 Duel Napa Valley and Oak Knoll

YUM!! This was my favorite wine of the whole trip.

I bought the remainder of the 2007 production.

YUM!! Fragrant aromas of rich blackberry, cocoa powder and rhubarb complement the

Savory aromas of cinnamon stick, cacao and

robust yet supple core of bittersweet chocolate, French roast coffee and raspberry compote.

smoke box open this expressive mountain Merlot.

Hints of graphite reveal a fine, lingering finish of baking spices, vanilla and sandalwood.

The palate display ripe flavors of black raspberry

Paired with Cheese: Big Woods Blue

and cherry are balanced by hints of toffee and

Big and beefy, Big Wood’s Blue is creamy with an irresistible sharpness that is undeniably blue.

subtle sweet oak. Texturally complex, the earthy

However, blue cheese skeptics should not be afraid because the richness of the sheep’s milk

core balances moderate tannins, with great

perfectly balances the intensity.

depth and concentration of fruit.

Paired with Cheese: Mimolette Extra Vielle This cheese from Normandy is originally based on Dutch Edam and is made with raw cow’s milk. A dye from the plant rocou, lends the deep orange color to the cheese. Mimolette intensifies with age in both color and flavor, developing a caramel taste. The Mimolettes from Jean d’Alos are aged upwards of two years to bring out the best characteristics.

84 Cor k It

Photography & Videography

Ande Demetriou is the exclusive photographer for Cork It magazine

901-213-7890 ande@geminimm.com

Twomey Cellars 3000 Westside Road • Healdsburg, CA 95448 • www.TwomeyCellars.com

Winemaker - Ben Cane

Twomey is a lovely property, set off the beaten path in Healdsburg in the Calistoga, where my dear friend, Ben Cane is the winemaker.

I originally met Ben when he visited Memphis 2 years ago for the Brooks Museum Art of Good Taste Food & Wine Series. I have enjoyed learning much about the winemaking process from Ben Cane. He toured my mother and me through the ENTIRE winemaking process (see article 2011: A Grape Odyssey… The Twomey Perspective, highlighting each element of the process), from start, the pressing of the grapes, to finish, voilà, YUM!

ALTHOUGH I HAVE TASTED MANY OF TWOMEY’S DELICIOUS VARIETALS, TODAY WE TASTED: 2009 Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir Complex

nose

of

fresh

strawberries,

2009 Twomey Pinot Noir Russian River Valley

wild

raspberries, wet slate and fresh spring rose petals.

This wine has ruby color with purple

Ever-expanding explosion of juicy red-berry fruit

highlights and a complex nose of fresh rose

and fresh cut flowers.

petals, lilacs, candied apples, sweet baking

2010 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc

spices and a hint of peppermint. The palate

Evolving nose of wild strawberries, black plums,

has notes of caramel, butterscotch and

fresh rose petals and wild mushrooms with hints

ripe red fruit. Bright natural acidity.

of cinnamon and spearmint. Wine begins with

Light straw-yellow color and a dynamic nose of honeydew melon, citrus blossoms, white jonquil,

2009 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

a fruit sweet attack quickly followed by notes

2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

guava, custard apple and pie crust. It has

of baking spices, blood oranges and berries.

Finishes with notes of bittersweet chocolate

beautiful acid balance, great mouthfeel without

Vibrant blood red rose color and a deep,

heaviness and a long clean finish redolent of

brooding nose of boysenberries, potpourri,

lime zest and mascarpone.

black truffle and violets. Palate is fruit sweet

and black cherry.

and broad and immediately evolves to a silky expression of huckleberry fruit and dried flowers.

2007 Napa Valley Merlot 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

YUM!! Beautiful, suppleness, complexity and

Complex nose of fresh rose petals, lilacs, candied

great expression of berry fruit. A nose of

apples, sweet baking spices and a hint of

fresh ripe black cherry and blackberry, dark

peppermint. Notes of caramel, butterscotch and

chocolate. Roasting coffee, explosive fruit and

ripe red fruit.

violets. A long finish echoing berry fruit and chocolate, grainy.

86 Cor k It

TASTING NOTES “Fill up, Fill up, for wisdom calls when e’er we let the wine rest. Here’s death to prohibitions fools, and every kind of vine pest” -Jamrach Holobom Various styles and offerings tasted blind by our panel of trained and amateur tasters both, all printed wines meet a rigorous quality price ratio requirement to ensure any selection is going to be tasty.

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 87



TASTING NOTES

WINES TO WATCH Angela Moon

Morse Code, Shiraz, Padthaway 2009

Duval LeRoy, Brut NV 35

Alpha Box & Dice, “Tarot”, Grenache, South Australia 2008

Carpineto, “Farnito”, Chardonnay, Toscana 2008

Gen5, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi 200

Pine Ridge, Chenin Blanc / Viognier, California 2010

Bodegas Borsao, “Tres Picos”, Grenacha, Campo de Borja 2009

Hugel, “Gentil”, Blend, Alsace 2009 Sparkman, ”Pearl”, Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia valley 2010

Rusty Prudhon

Sleight of Hand, “The Magician”, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Columbia Gorge

Corvidae Wine Co., “Ravenna”, Riesling, Columbia Valley 2009

2010

Mohua, Pinot Gris, Central Otago 2009

Michele Chiarlo, “Le Orme”, Barbera d’ Asti 2008

Gen5, Chardonnay, Lodi 2010

Siegel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Valley Chile 2010

Corvidae Wine Co., “Wise Guy”, Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley 2010

Sleight of Hand, “The Spellbinder”, Blend, Columbia Valley 2009

Engine Room, Sparkling Red, Australia Carlton cellars, “Seven Devils”, Pinot Noir, Willamette valley 2009

Chris Thorn

Fat Cat, Pinot Noir, California 2009

Sleight of Hand, “Modern Wine Project”, Chardonnay, Columbia Valley 2008

Waterbrook,”Reserve”, Merlot, Columbia Valley 2008

Palacio de Bornes, Verdejo, Rueda 2010

Marietta Cellars, “Old Vine Red Lot 55”, Blend, California NV

Veramonte, “Ritual”, Pinot Noir, Casablanca Valley Chile 2009 Buena Vista, Pinot Noir, Carneros 2008

Jay Turney

Happy Canyon Vineyards, “Chukker”, Blend, Happy Canyon 2009

Chateau Suau, Bordeaux Blanc 2010

Bethel Heights, Pinot Noir, Eola Amity Hills 2009

Woodward Canyon, Chardonnay, Washington 2008

Delas, “Saint-Esprit”, Cotes Du Rhone 2009

Attems, “Cupra Ramato,” Pinot Grigio, Venezia Giulia 2009

Trivento, “Amade Sur”, Malbec, Bonarda, Syrah, Mendoza 2009

Shafer, “Red Shoulder Ranch”, Chardonnay, Carneros 2009

Michael Torino, “Altimus”, Blend, Cafayate Valley 2007

Charles De Fere, “Cuvee Jean-Louis”, Blanc de Blancs, Brut

Sparkman, “Preposterous”, Malbec, Red Mountain 2009

Crios, rose of Malbec, Mendoza 2010 Hahn, Meritage, Central Coast 2009

Michael Hughes

BoxHead, Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia 2008

Domaine de Chantemerle Chablis 2009

Waterbrook, “Melange Noir”, Blend, Columbia Valley 2008

Hopler, Gruner Veltliner, Burgenland Austria 2009 Peter Lehman, “Layers”, Blend, Adelaide 2009

Allison Jacob

Noble Vines, “446”, Chardonnay, Monterey 2010

Gai’a, “14-18h”, Rose of Agorgitiko, Greece 2010

BR Cohen, “Silver Label”, Chardonnay, North Coast 2010

Chateau Graville-Lacoste, Graves 2010

Cliff Creek, “Red Red Wine”, Blend, Oregon 2008

Charles Heidsieck, Brut Reserve, Champagne NV

Buehler, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2008

Cupcake, Prosecco NV

Gnarly Head, “Authentic Red”, Blend, Lodi 2010

Treasure Hunter, “Pieces of Eight”, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley

Stags’ Leap Wine Cellars, “Artemis”, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2007

2008 Cline, “Cashmere”, Syrah, California 2010

Ryan Poston

Villa Antinori, Toscana 2007

Casillero del Diablo, Chardonnay, Chile 2010

Bouchaine, Pinot Noir, Carneros 2007

Buena Vista, Chardonnay, Carneros 2008

Pahlmeyer, “Jayson”, Blend, Napa 2008

Valckenberg, Gewurztraminer, Pfalz 2010 Columbia Crest, “H3”, Pinot Gris, Horse Heaven Hills 2009

FIND THE WINE PRICE RANGE = $15 or less = $16 to $20 88 Cor k It

= $21 to $30 = $31 or more

Gai’a, “14-18h”, Rose of Agorgitiko, Greece 2010 Rose petals, fruit field abundance on nose. Strawberry fields on front palate. Fruit forward middle palate. Hardly tastes like wine! Smooth finish.

Chateau Graville-Lacoste, Graves 2010 Tons of lemon scents and very floral with honeysuckle and orange, tastes like honey cut with lemon juice and flowers

Allison Jacob Publisher, Cork IT

Charles Heidsieck, Brut Reserve, Champagne NV Dry nose, toasted almonds, and ginger apples. Sugarcane, candied lemon and toast as it finishes Cupcake, Prosecco NV Peaches and nectarines with a little buttery feeling, tastes like sweetened creamy lemon and orange juice

Treasure Hunter, “Pieces of Eight”, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 2008 Smells big and earthy with some blackberry. First taste is very fruit forward- strawberry notes, Big rush of fruit in the middle palette. Balanced and ends smooth and subtle.

Cline, “Cashmere”, Syrah, California 2010 Woodsy, earthy smells of bark and soil. Soft acids, cherry and raspberry, long finish but luscious with a slight hint of pepper and flowers Villa Antinori, Toscana 2007 Brandied cherries and alcohol, moves to a drier more acidic taste with dark fruits and plum, a punch of tannin at the very end Bouchaine, Pinot Noir, Carneros 2007 Pomegranate, plum, and cherry fruit flavors with a touch of coffee and toffee. Bright and lingers on palate Pahlmeyer, “Jayson”, Blend, Napa 2008 Black olives, Licorice, and coco powder fill up the nose, very fragrant. Every sip tastes a little different, blueberry and chocolate add to olives and plums, very big wine but super tannic has a touch of beauty to it.



TASTING NOTES

TASTING NOTES

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 89

TASTING NOTES

90 Cor k It

Veramonte, “Ritual”, Pinot Noir, Casablanca Valley Chile 2009 All summer fruit, blueberry, black raspberry, and sweet cherries. Juicy nose but with a hint of pepper. Structured acid and a weighted mid, the fruit softens up a bit in the mouth, there is a faint very subtle hint of oak, almost Rhone like.

Photography by Ande Demetriou

TASTING NOTES



Palacio de Bornes, Verdejo, Rueda 2010 Aromas of melon and honeysuckle with a background note of gooseberry and buffalo grass. Tastes include prickly pear and peppered honey there is some acid and citrus that show up in the middle and a moderate but slightly hot finish.

Chris Thorn

Buena Vista, Pinot Noir, Carneros 2008 Deeply aromatic with cured meats and strawberry / cherry preserves, hints of raspberry and rose petals. A little candied black cherry, and vanilla strawberry cookie start a finish that hangs on echoes in the throat with a touch of spice and amazing balance

Sommelier, Cork IT

Happy Canyon Vineyards, “Chukker”, Blend, Happy Canyon 2009 Notes of dark berries and nutmeg / bakers’ coco, soft floral tones underlie the fruit. The wine is rich in the mouth like a grape or prune juice and offers hints of leather and cola, tannin is softer than the short finish but all around a very good balanced selection.

Bethel Heights, Pinot Noir, Eola Amity Hills 2009 ** Smells of fall baking spices and black pepper, a soft bouquet of raspberry and griotte cherries is underneath. Wine is light in weight and texture with a zealous acidity and black cherry dominating, softens over the course of a glass and adds a plethora of soft fruit tones.

Delas, “Saint-Esprit”, Cotes Du Rhone 2009 Deep dark color and aromas reminiscient of syrah, violet, anise, and herbs surround dark berries and plum. Mouth confirms aromas and adds a soft smokiness in the background there is a very delicate tannin and wonderful full round mouthfeel and the finish holds strong with some added acidity.

Trivento, “Amade Sur”, Malbec, Bonarda, Syrah, Mendoza 2009 Black tea, dark currant, and black licorice, a very dark core with pale rim. Cinnamon coriander and pepper support forward flavors of coffee, leather, and some earthy hints. Middle shows some velvety tannin and faint oak, finish is dynamic, as one flavor fades another layer is there too take its place.

Michael Torino, “Altimus”, Blend, Cafayate Valley 2007 A little heat on the front but has floral scents mostly of violet that peek through smoked currant and fig, a touch of blueberry on the back side. Color is deep from edge to core but has a brilliant red around the rim,. Huge mouthfeel and immediate tannin presence, fruit is soft in the mid but finish comes to life with vanilla, cinnamon toast, tanned leather and some cedar box while hanging on for a good time…Really came to life and soften immensely after 20 minutes, introduced some subtle anise and plum notes in the middle while the first sip became almost not there.

Sparkman, “Preposterous”, Malbec, Red Mountain 2009 Rich fruits and spices of clove and coriander hints, not much on the nose out front, but fades into violet notes toward the back, deep in color and has some elegance in the mouth, lacking a little acidity but for fans of richer, more voluptuous styles this will be a homerun.

Sleight of Hand, “Modern Wine Project”, Chardonnay, Columbia Valley 2008 Aromas are soft but very forward offering some vanilla and loads of tropical fruit, mango, papaya, and underneath spice hints. In the mouth the balance of the wine is lush and tasty with a nice stroke of acid in the middle moving to a cream style finish with lingering fruits, pineapple, mango, and pure citrus rounded by a sugary butter at the very end.

Domaine de Chantemerle Chablis 2009 Aromas of wet rock, chalk, preserved lemon, lime zest, briny. Palate shows as zippy and crisp with lemon peel notes. Savory notes of flint in the mid-palate and briny notes on the finish. It is quite elegant yet has a distinctive presence & personality. Absolutely delicious.

photo by Maggie McLendon

Hopler, Gruner Veltliner, Burgenland Austria 2009 Aromas of lemon-lime, lemon curd, sweet mango.

Palate shows soft & creamy but not heavy. Acidity is bright with a tingly finish. It’s a thirst quenching wine.

The finish does linger with a bit of white pepper & lime.

BR Cohen, “Silver Label”, Chardonnay, North Coast 2010 Aromas of apple tarte tatin, buttercream, marshmallow, lemon zest, Palate is creamy, lush, hints of toasty oak & a pleasant bittersweet note with fennel & burnt sugar. It’s a simple wine yet pleasant.

Michael Hughes

Noble Vines, “446”, Chardonnay, Monterey 2010 Aromas include pineapple, clove, vanilla, mango, General Manager, Joe’s Wine & Liquor and pear. There is a full, rich, creamy & luscious mouthfeel. It exhibits a soft relativity thin mid palate that leads to a bracingly acidic finish. It hints at pepper & overripe pear. The alcohol is evident but not dominate on the finish.

Peter Lehman, “Layers”, Blend, Adelaide 2009 Aromas of baked pear, brown sugar, caramelized fennel, vanilla. It’s obvious that the winery focused on sweetness in their aromatic expression. Palate is a little soft, no acidity to speak of, soft entry into a short finish.

Cliff Creek, “Red Red Wine”, Blend, Oregon 2008 Aromas of poached plums, cherry, quite roasted & port like very discernible & aggressive alcohol on the nose.

Palate is soft with no edge, a small bit of personality, shallow mid-palate with soft finish.

Buehler, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2008 Aromas include creme de cassis, black raspberry, clove, hint of violet & vanilla. It heavily focuses on fruit as opposed to earth or any secondary characteristics. Palate has a bit of pungent red fruit, cinnamon, tart acidity, and licorice. Residual sugar is evident but it isn’t overtly sweet. It has a subtly tannic finish.

Gnarly Head, “Authentic Red”, Blend, Lodi 2010 Aromas include blueberry jam, creme de cassis, cinnamon, blackberry, and clove. slightly hot in the nose but the palate is soft, round, almost no tannin evident at all. The wine is very linear, finish is quite quick



TASTING NOTES

TASTING NOTES

Stags’ Leap Wine Cellars, “Artemis”, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2007 Aromas of blackcurrant, cassis, cherry liqueur, vanilla, hints of coconut & eucalyptus. In the mouth the wine is plush with round body with supple fruit, luscious & bold, gripping tannins.

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 91

TASTING NOTES

92 Cor k It

Chateau Suau, Bordeaux Blanc 2010 Green apple nose, cut grass and citrus abound on then nose as well as the palate. Refreshing acidity accents the fruit flavors nicely.

Woodward Canyon, Chardonnay, Washington 2008 This white wine has a straw yellow golden color with toasty oak notes on the nose to blend with the golden delicious apple and caramel fruit in the mouth. Butterscotch flavors are heavy on the finish that projects heavy wood influence.

Attems, “Cupra Ramato,” Pinot Grigio, Venezia Giulia 2009 This somewhat white wine has a cooper hue with Fuji apple fruit that blends with lemon and honeysuckle on the mid-palate. The medium weight of this wine still brings a refreshing acidity.

Shafer, “Red Shoulder Ranch”, Chardonnay, Carneros 2009 Golden brilliant color with an explosive toasty, yeasty, vanilla poached pear nose, mirrors the palate all the way. A slight creaminess highlighted by a backbone of acidity means the winemaker took great care to balance the fruit and oak. A good white wine to age a few years to see what comes next.

photo by Norman Gilbert

TASTING NOTES



Jay Turney General Manager, Circa by John Bragg

Charles De Fere, “Cuvee Jean-Louis”, Blanc de Blancs, Brut Green to pale yellow sparkler. Straight forward tart, citrus notes on the palate finish with a touch of powdery mouth feel. This sparkler has clean simple fruit with light bubbles to enhance. Aperitif sparkler to wake up the palate.

Crios, rose of Malbec, Mendoza 2010 This is an intense raspberry nose on this full bodied rosé. There is plenty of candied watermelon accents on the palate to blend with the just picked strawberry, cranberry tartness. The full weight and deep berry concentration makes this a food rose.

Hahn, Meritage, Central Coast 2009 This red has a dark intense color with dark blackberry, black plum fruit on the nose. The baking spice character with its dusty finish makes this a challenge with every sip.

BoxHead, Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia 2008 Dark ruby and inky colors makes this wine inviting. Dark plum jam, black currant and the essence of sun baked fruit balances well with the baking spice notes that become more exciting through the dry, dusty finish. Hearty but refined.

Waterbrook, “Melange Noir”, Blend, Columbia Valley 2008 This wine has a purple, ruby color with a touch of lavender and pretty bright berry on the nose with toasty baking spice notes. A light touch of oak gives it a splash of cinnamon, vanilla character without overpowering the pretty fruit.

Angela Moon Wine Provocateur, Kirby Wines

Duval LeRoy, Brut NV A heady sparkler with lots of toasty, layered aromas of brioche, almonds and honey. Full-bodied and rich with lemon curd, grilled pineapple and biscuits. Ends on a bright citrus note.

Carpineto, “Farnito”, Chardonnay, Toscana 2008 Deep golden in color with smoky and spicy aromas of vanilla, clove and nutmeg. Rich in glass -coating viscosity; mouth –filling flavors of buttered toast and Meyer lemon with a steady backbone of structured acidity.

Pine Ridge, Chenin Blanc / Viognier, California 2010 Pale straw color gives way to springtime aromas of freshly mown grass, white flowers and honeysuckle.

Bright and zippy acidity, perfumed with soft pineapple, banana and elder flower.

Hugel, “Gentil”, Blend, Alsace 2009 Exotic European nose of slate, earth and rain-soaked compost. More herbal than fruit driven, with a wisp of dried thyme. Fruit reveals itself subtly through faint suggestions of white grape, peach and gooseberry.

Sparkman, ”Pearl”, Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia valley 2010 Crystal clear with a slight green edge. Refreshing aromas of orange rind, orange blossom and honeysuckle. A sprightly grapefruit essence is grounded by clove and baby aspirin.

Sleight of Hand, “The Magician”, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Columbia Gorge 2010 Beautiful, delicate nose of honeydew melon, ripe peach and juicy pear. Light bodied with citrusedged acidity and a pleasant sweetness.

Michele Chiarlo, “Le Orme”, Barbera d’ Asti 2008 Deep youthful purple. Aggressive nose boasts roasted nuts, gaminess and musk. Brawny acidity gives structure to a jam of blue berries, black berries and bramble fruits.

Siegel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Valley Chile 2010 Opaque purple with a bluish rim. Savory, smoky nose redolent of braised meats. Aromas and flavors of Eucalyptus, mint and violets with a slightly scorched earth edge.

Sleight of Hand, “The Spellbinder”, Blend, Columbia Valley 2009 Deeply colored ink blue/black. Aromas and flavors reminiscent of Memaw’s house: cedar, cinnamon and roses. Essences of smoky campfire, baked plums and raspberries. Long, earthy finish.



TASTING NOTES

TASTING NOTES

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 93

TASTING NOTES

TASTING NOTES



94 Cor k It

Ryan Poston Night Manager Cheers Wines & Spirits

Casillero del Diablo, Chardonnay, Chile 2010 Light golden in color with musty aromas and hints of cedar, thick full body with golden apple and pear, little acid but a solid smooth finish.

Buena Vista, Chardonnay, Carneros 2008 Rich golden color, aromas of grapefruit and a little mango. Medium body with easy long finish with nice toasty oak, very low notes on fruit, butter and oak really comes through Valckenberg, Gewurztraminer, Pfalz 2010 Aromas of white jelly and golden raisin, a very antique gold color, average body with a much fuller mouthfeel, short finish but very pleasant Columbia Crest, “H3”, Pinot Gris, Horse Heaven Hills 2009 Slightly sweet anise aromas on a pale blonde color, bracing minerality, Bartlett pear and jicama with a light body, long velvety finish Morse Code, Shiraz, Padthaway 2009 Rose colored and youthful, slightly darker fruits with good spice almost jammy with some plum Alpha Box & Dice, “Tarot”, Grenache, South Australia 2008 Violet color with dark fruits of black cherry and blackberry, cherry and good acids on palate, as the wine is enjoyed the residual sugar does become more apparent Gen5, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi 200 Aromas of Dark fruit like currant, color is a dark translucent violet, fruit is prominent followed by spice and tannin, long finish but tannic Bodegas Borsao, “Tres Picos”, Grenacha, Campo de Borja 2009 Ruby red with unyielding sweetness of red fruit, palate has leather and some plum, there is a longer finish, wine needs some food with some saltiness to tone it down

Corvidae Wine Co., “Ravenna”, Riesling, Columbia Valley 2009 Pale straw color, a touch of petrol as well as some green apple on the nose. Bright & fresh middle with more mouth coating green apple, a little minerality and a little spice. Has a touch of residual sugar but still finishes a bit dry

Rusty Prudhon General Manager, Napa Cafe

Mohua, Pinot Gris, Central Otago 2009 Medium straw color, candy apple nose.

Nice texture in the mid palette with some flavors of melon and a short dry finish

Gen5, Chardonnay, Lodi 2010 Light golden color, a hint of pear on the nose. Mid palette has a little creaminess. The fruit component is covered with a little too much, minerality throwing the balance off a little, relatively short finish Corvidae Wine Co., “Wise Guy”, Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley 2010 Pale gold color, the tangerine & grapefruit on the nose alone will make your mouth water. The middle absolutely coats your mouth; the wine is tart with lots of fresh acidity and flavors of grapefruit, citrus, and a very slight touch of grassiness. Long bright racy finish Engine Room, Sparkling Red, Australia Very deep red velvety color, the fruit is masked by the oak on the nose. Very mouth filling and a great alternative to a big red wine, the black & blue fruit is unfortunately covered up by a bit too much oak Medium to long finish Carlton cellars, “Seven Devils”, Pinot Noir, Willamette valley 2009 Medium garnet nose, really vibrant nose that I could smell as it sat on the table next to me. The nose shows a little black cherry, some earthiness and a touch of oak. Soft elegant texture, the flavors match the aromas but are even more expressive. This is a great example of a wine with a sense of place. Very long silky finish Fat Cat, Pinot Noir, California 2009 Nice ruby color, the nose has the scent of cherry cough syrup. The mid palette offers a little cherry cola with a hint of damp forest floor. This wine is simple & easy to drink. Probably better with food than without. Decent finish Waterbrook,”Reserve”, Merlot, Columbia Valley 2008 Deep ruby color, hint of toasted oak with some red & black fruit on the nose. The fruit really shines through and the tannins are very well integrated. Medium to full bodied with a plush velvety texture. Medium to long finish with all flavors lasting the whole way through.

Marietta Cellars, “Old Vine Red Lot 55”, Blend, California NV Inky purple/black color, Expected a lot of jammy fruit on the nose judging by the color but it wasn’t there. A little simpler in style than I would have imagined, some baked spices and a slight hint of black & blue fruit. Very short finish, easy drinker.



TASTING NOTES

TASTING NOTES

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 95

Shafer Vineyards 6154 Silverado Trail • Napa, CA 94558 • www.ShaferVineyards.com

Winemaker - Elias Fernandez Public Relations - Andy Demsky

Pioneers of hillside farming, starting in 1972, John Shafer left a 23 year career in the publishing (yippee!) industry, and moved his family to the Napa Valley to pursue a winemaking career. He purchased a 40 acre estate in the Stag’s Leap District and faced the daunting task of replacing overly aged vines, which spanned rocky hillsides. Doug, John’s son, joined the team in 1983. Four years later, Elias Fernandez came aboard as assistant winemaker. Throughout the years, up to present time, the three original team members still operate full-force at Shafer: John as Chairman of the Board; Doug, President; and Elias Fernandez, winemaker.

WE TRIED THESE WINES: 2009 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay Carneros

One Point Five 2007 Hillside® Stags Leap District YUM!! 25th vintage of Hillside Select, aromatic elegance and classic Stags Leap District flavors of black fruit, mocha, black plums, juicy red cherry, black tea, with

The 2009 offers lush, luxurious aromas and flavors of

spice and warm toast. Flavors of blackberry, cassis, black

melon, honeysuckle, apricot, pineapple and flint all

cherry, warm plum pie, dark chocolate, and a touch of

held together with bright acidity, good structure and

vanilla are elegant and mouth filling. Ripe, silken tannins

elegant balance.

result in a pleasing, lengthy finish, smooth texture, and a refined structure which offers the potential for very long

2008 Relentless Syrah Napa Valley

term aging.

Abundant aromas and flavors of juicy purple fruit, smoked meat, spice, smoke, black plums and berry, it hugs the line between extract and elegance. In the

2009 Merlot - Since 83 Napa Valley

mouth it’s full and seamless from first taste through the long finish.

Delicious red fruit with a core of lush black fruit – red cherry, red plum, spice and berry with hints of eucalyptus, earth and smoke.

2007 Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District YUM!! Aromatic elegance and classic Stags Leap District flavors of black fruit, mocha, black plums, cassis, juicy black and red cherry, black tea, with spice and warm toast.

Juicy, mouth filling flavors of dark chocolate, tobacco, and dark spice. Ripe, silken tannins result in a pleasing, lengthy finish, smooth texture, and a refined structure which offers the potential for very long term aging.

96 Cor k It

Tiny Bubbles, Grand Origins:

The Nobility and Mystique of Champagne

BY Jake Smith, Star Distributors

I

t seems silly, doesn’t it? Paying $60 plus tax for a bottle of sparkling wine, just because it’s French and has a name that’s hard to pronounce? This is the point where most people punt, opting for a bottle of usually delicious California bubbly that costs half as much. In a way, it’s a wonderful instance of the populist and egalitarian spirit that has turned the United States into one of the world’s leading consumers of wine. Gone are the old aristocratic notions of wine being a high-class affectation or too intimidating for the average person to understand and appreciate; wine is now truly a drink of the people.

But the revolutionary fervor of wine’s liberation from the ranks of the elite has yet to reach Champagne. Because as frustrating as it is to admit, Champagne is simply a breed apart. The New World has yet to produce a wine that can hold its own against the excellence of true Champagne. Oenophiles and snobs may scoff at this bold declaration, but examining the history and pedigree of France’s most legendary wine region reveals a simple truth: Champagne is without a doubt one of the world’s most beloved and fiercely defended cultural treasures.

In an effort to dispel much of the mystique surrounding Champagne, it is necessary to address a few technical aspects of the wine. Champagne refers to two things: a particular region, or appellation, in France, and the wine that is produced from this appellation. It is for this reason that “Champagne” properly denotes only the real French stuff, although it has entered common usage as a term for any wine with bubbles.

Champagne is made from three varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and the much less famous Pinot Meunier.

Most Champagnes are blends of the juices made from these three varietals, but others are more specific. For example, the term “Blanc de Blancs,” meaning “white from whites,” refers to Champagnes that are made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes. These bubblies are much lighter and brighter in body, with clearer flavors of citrus zest, spring flowers, and pear which shine through. “Blanc de Noirs,” or “white from blacks,” refers to wine that is made from the two Pinots, which are red grapes. These wines may acquire a very light salmon pink color, and their flavors are much weightier and richer, with notes of baked apples, early autumn leaves, and freshly baked bread.

As I mentioned earlier, the history of Champagne is perhaps one of the most dramatic, moving, and inspirational stories of the modern era, its appeal stretching beyond the rather mundane and slow-moving world of wine.

Champagne’s location in the northeast of France made it a hotbed of military action in the great wars of the last century, and many vineyards were ruined by the relentless shelling of both French and German artillery. Winston Churchill, who is honored by the Pol Roger house with a $275 bottle named in his honor, actually urged his men to fight in World War II by reminding them, “Remember, gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne!” In spite of the relentless upheaval which plagued the region in the early 20th century, from wars to economic crises, it is truly remarkable that Champagne as a consistent, recognizable product is still with us today. There is perhaps no product in the average consumer market that has struggled as hard just to survive as true Champagne.

And as any great winemaker will tell you, struggle is what makes truly great wine. You can taste it in the finished product; the effort of vines to find enough moisture, enough shade, enough nutrients to mature into something resilient and powerful. There is no other appellation in the world that has struggled as passionately as Champagne, and there is no wine that has required as much sacrifice to appear in your glass. So the next time you are staring down a bottle of the “real stuff,” consider what a miracle it is that the Veuve Clicquot label has outlasted the most ambitious powers of the world, from Napoleon to Hitler. Consider the fact that $60 plus tax is well worth the price of admission to a story which transcends the boundaries of time, history, and tradition. Consider the bubbles, the marvel of chemistry which marks the great moments of our lives, and the flavors that take us back to the times when we knew that life is truly worth living.

“Too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right.”

-

Mark Twain

www. MemphisCor kIt.com 97

Grab your copy of Cork it! Magazine at one of the following locations!

Amerigo Busters Liquors & Wines Café 1912 Cheers Wines & Spirits Circa Elfo’s Erling Jensen Flemings Steakhouse Great Wines & Spirits Interim James Davis Jims Place Grille Jims Place Restaurant Joseph Lucchesi’s Napa Café Poplar Pike Wines Poplar Wines & Spirits Post 31 Interiors Racquet Club of Memphis Restaurant Iris Ruth’s Chris Sweet Grass The Grove Grill Wine Market

98 Cor k It

HOLIDAYS www. MemphisCor kIt.com 99

Napa Cafe

5101 Sanderlin Ave # 122, Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 683-0441 www.NapaCafe.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia

Bethel Heights Pinot Blanc with caramelized scallops and an almond puree We love wines from Oregon and we love wines from Alsace and The Bethel Heights Pinot Blanc is a great combination of both.

Pinot Blanc is one of our favorite varietals and we think it typically pairs very well with shellfish among other things. The scallops are beautifully caramelized and this dish is served with a rich almond puree. The wine itself is very crisp and has a touch of minerality which is a nice compliment to the scallop itself. The acid really helps balance the richness of the almond puree and the caramelized texture of the scallop works well with the texture of the wine.

Willakenzie Pinot Meunier with white fish, wild mushrooms and beets One of the things we wanted to do with the second dish is show how red wine can be paired with white fish. For us this pairing comes down to what accompanies the dish and the texture of the fish. We chose Willakenzie Pinot Meunier. This is another wine from Oregon and the varietal itself is not typically seen as a still variety bottled on its own. It is most similar in style to Pinot Noir. The wine itself is very silky with great acidity, a little earthiness, a touch of rose petal, and some cherry and blueberry fruit. The texture of the red wine is important in this dish because the sea bass is a lighter more flaky fish so the wine needs to match that element of the dish. The Pinot Meunier is soft & delicate and a perfect match for the texture of the fish. The addition of wild mushrooms and beets to the dish really makes the pairing complete because it brings out the slight earthiness in the wine. The fruit rounds everything out.

Chateau de Valmer with pork cheek, spinach and roasted grapes We felt like the third dish is a fairly classic pairing and one that would work nicely going into the holiday season. The wine we selected was from Chateau de Valmer from the area Vouvray in France.The grape varietal is Chenin Blanc. This wine is round with a touch of tart lemon and honey and finishes off dry. The characteristics of the wine itself are a great match for the pork cheek. There is a bit of minerality in the wine that pairs well with the spinach. The sweetness of the roasted grapes works well with the honey component in the wine as well as the texture.

100 Cor k It

What to bring for the holidays Roses Always a fun wine regardless of the nature of pairing. Many different flavors and styles, from the fruit rich Cabernet and Syrah bases to drier styles from Malbec and Grenache. Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir offer perfumed and slightly more complex options. These are not your “Blushes” or “White Zinfandels”.

Gewurztraminer Offers lighter acid and a peppered characteristic and includes decent fruit, makes this lovely hard to pronounce (ga-verts-tra-me-ner) varietal. My go to for deep fried turkey or stuffing (dressing). Even works as something to sip on while preparing the food!

Champagne You cannot go wrong here, just please buy actual Champagne. Sure, there are a plethora of other amazing sparklers, Cavas, and Cremants but nothing is quite as racy and perfect as tasting the freshness or yeast laden depth in true blue Champagne. Good champagne can be had for under $50 and it’s the laser like acidity you want to cut through rich sauces and sugared vegetables. The bubbles are a beautiful offset to the texture and salt of turkey or ham.

Malbec Stick to Argentina for the best examples, but Washington is pushing a few tasty bottles as well. The rich fruit and rounded mouthfeel Malbec offers has a greater spectrum of pairing than say Pinot and is much more approachable than young Cabernet. It really shines well against gamier birds and meats and Malbec also shows well next to sausage based “dressings”.

Grenache/ Syrah A crowd pleasing in between style, structure comes up from the Syrah to please the big red drinkers, while the solid fruit from the Syrah cut back but Grenache’s acidity and more subtle flavor can add elegance. Best pickings are from Cotes Du Rhone, but California and Washington have great selections as well.

Monastrell A great Spanish incarnation of Mourvedre, it carries a slightly green note which makes it an ideal candidate for crossing over between the roasted lamb and green bean casserole. It does very well against traditional turkey and roasted chicken. Seek out Spanish DOs Jumila and Yecla for shining examples

www.MemphisCor kIt.com 101

Cafe 1912

243 S. Cooper, Memphis TN 38104 (901) 722-2700 www.Cafe1912.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia

Rosé, La Vieille Ferme, Côtes du Ventoux , France 2009 Fried spring roll filled with vegetables and beef on a small spinach salad with mandarin oranges, toasted almonds, and a ginger vinaigrette This crisp rosé offers a nice balance to complement both the beef spring roll and the spinach salad. It has enough body to stand up to the meat, but good fruit on the nose to go well with oranges.

Chenin Blanc, Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2009 Thai style crab cake with a chili-garlic aïoli The nice fruit of this petit chenin blanc compliments the lump crab meat with just enough acidity to cut through the creaminess of the chili aïoli.

Chardonnay, Le Drunk Rooster, Languedoc, France 2009 Mussels with white wine, fresh herbs, and crispy croutons This chardonnay has a nice body to stand up to the rich butter sauce, but being a “French style”, provides good minerality to offset the richness of the broth.

102 Cor k It

HOLIDAYS



Gift

ideas for any time of year

by Gary Burhop

Here are my 5 top choices 5. Rose wines…. We hear many guys say, “I don’t do pink.” So buy a few for your wife or girlfriend and I’ll lay odds you’ll try it and like it. Reality is a dry rose, especially from the Provence region of France, is perfect as an aperitif and with light meals. It is a hot Memphis day godsend.

4. Craft Distilleries…. Federal law has changed, creating a cottage industry of small distillers rather than just ‘moonshiners.’ Whiskey from Colorado and Utah, gin from Little Rock and pumpkin-spiced whiskey from Nashville are on the scene, with many more to come. Liven up a boring liquor cabinet.

3. Vintage Armagnac…. Not inexpensive but a special treat for any cognac, bourbon or scotch drinker in your life. A grape distillate, like cognac, Armagnac hails from its own appellation controlee. It is distilled only once and then barrel aged for extended periods of time. Vintage Armagnac is aromatically complex, seductively spicy, yet alluringly sweet.

2. Wine from an uncommon region or an uncommon wine…. This can fit any budget. Consider a wine from Priorat in Spain made typically from varieties that became the backbone of the Rhone Valley I France – syrah, grenache and mourvedre. Try a wine from Patagonia, the nearly barren, windswept southern tip of Argentina where they are having success with more than malbec. Explore Italy beyond Tuscany by having a wine made from aglianico, an ancient variety still cultivated on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius.

1. Discover the joys of half-bottles of wine, more accurately 375 milliliter bottles…. These can be a relationship saver. No longer will you find your treasured Chateau Lafite a component of beef stew. Each bottle contains approximately 12 ounces of wine – perfect for most recipes and a glass for the chef. Half bottles can also be designated as your partner’s wine. If you are gone, there will be no reticence about opening a full bottle and having two glasses. It is their wine, so you have no fear of that special bottle being opened. If you find yourself wanting red with a lobster dinner, it’s okay. Open the half bottle of Chablis for your partner.

Half bottles can banish guilt when you want another glass but don’t want to open a full bottle.

photo by Maggie McLendon

And, not least, empty half bottles can be the most effective storage solution for leftover wine. Oxygen is the enemy of a partial bottle of wine, especially red. Refill the half bottle with what is left and you will halve the amount of air, slowing oxidation. Fill the bottle full, eliminating most air, stopper it and the wine will keep for days.

“At a certain point, we all conclude that if we can’t drink it or eat it, we don’t need, or want any gift. Fortunately, there are many ideas for gifts for any time of year to be found in a Tennessee wine and spirits store.”

Gary Burhop, Owner Great Wines and Spirits

www.MemphisCor kIt.com 103

Domaine Carneros

by Tattinger

CEO/Founding Winemaker -Eileen Crane Special Events Sales Manager - Stacey Meyer

1240 Duhig Rd • Carneros/Napa, CA • 94559 PO Box 5420 • Napa, CA 94581 • www.DomaineCarneros.com

Completed in 1989, the Domaine Carneros Chateau was inspired by the historic Tattinger owned Chateau de la Marquetterie in Champagne. The chateau is beautifully elegant and sits atop a knoll amongst its vineyards. The exquisite outdoor seating area allows for expansive views of the endless hillside landscape.

Eileen Crane, CEO and founding winemaker, greeted me and shared a bit about her everyday life at Domaine Carneros. It was such a pleasure to meet a down to earth, but powerful, passionate, woman.

WE TASTED THESE THREE: Vintage Brut Cuvee Aromas of freesia and baked pear accent impressions of melon and citrus peel. Notes of toast and vanilla add to the complexity.

Vintage Brut Rose With the most vibrant fruit and floral notes of all our sparkling wines, the Rose is characterized by wild strawberries and hints of peach.

Vermeil Demi-Sec Vermeil (veur-may) is a Demi-Sec or barely sweet sparkling wine with aromas of orange blossom, citrus peel, and baked apples with hints of caramel and vanilla. The long creamy finish is luxurious.

HOLIDAYS

Wine & Cheese: A match made in heaven



Wine: Duval LeRoy, Brut NV A heady sparkler with lots of toasty, layered aromas of brioche, almonds and honey. Full-bodied and rich with lemon curd, grilled pineapple and biscuits. Ends on a bright citrus note.

Cheese: Pair with Camembert

Ask Chris at Lucchesi’s. He will be glad to help you....

Wine: Sparkman, ”Pearl”, Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia valley 2010 Crystal clear with a slight green edge. Refreshing aromas of orange rind, orange blossom and honeysuckle. A sprightly grapefruit essence is grounded by clove and baby aspirin.

Cheese: Pair with Honey Goat Wine: Sleight of Hand, “The Magician”, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Columbia Gorge 2010 Beautiful, delicate nose of honeydew melon, ripe peach and juicy pear. Light bodied with citrus- edged acidity and a pleasant sweetness.

Cheese: Pair with Gruyere Wine: Peter Lehman, “Layers”, Blend, Adelaide 2009 Aromas of baked pear, brown sugar, caramelized fennel, vanilla.

It’s obvious that the winery focused on sweetness in their aromatic expression. Palate is a little soft, no acidity to speak of, soft entry into a short finish.

Cheese: Pair with Gouda Wine: Delas, “Saint-Esprit”, Cotes Du Rhone 2009 Deep dark color and aromas reminiscient of syrah, violet, anise, and herbs surround dark berries and plum. Mouth confirms aromas and adds a soft smokiness in the background there is a very delicate tannin and wonderful full round mouthfeel and the finish holds strong with some added acidity.

Cheese: Pair with Dana Blue Wine: Waterbrook,”Reserve”, Merlot, Columbia Valley 2008 Deep ruby color, hint of toasted oak with some red & black fruit on the nose. The fruit really shines through and the tannins are very well integrated. Medium to full bodied with a plush velvety texture.

Medium to long finish with all flavors lasting the whole way through.

Cheese: Pair with English Cheddar with onion (Pickwick) Wine: Four Graces, Pinot Gris, Willamete Valley 2010 On the nose kiwis and lemon zest greet you. Fuji apples, gooseberries and key limes open up on the palate. There’s an interesting mineralty and acidity balanced by soft floral aromas. The silky finish and fresh, full-bodied mouthfeel are indicative of a great Pinot Gris.

Cheese: Pair with Toscanno Pecarino Wine: Attems, “Cupra Ramato,” Pinot Grigio, Venezia Giulia 2009 This somewhat white wine has a cooper hue with Fuji apple fruit that blends with lemon and honeysuckle on the mid-palate. The medium weight of this wine still brings a refreshing acidity.

Cheese: Pair with Saga Blue Wine: Crios, rose of Malbec, Mendoza 2010 This is an intense raspberry nose on this full bodied rosé. There is plenty of candied watermelon accents on the palate to blend with the just picked strawberry, cranberry tartness. The full weight and deep berry concentration makes this a food rosé.

Cheese: Pair with Reggiano Wine: Gen5, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi 2009 Aromas of dark fruit like currant, color is a dark translucent violet, fruit is prominent followed by spice and tannin, long finish but tannic.

Cheese: Pair with Manchego www.MemphisCor kIt.com 105

MEMPHIS CHEF’S HOLIDAY

RECIPES

FROM SOME OF OUR LOCAL RESTAURANTS

Circa

Chef Jeff Dunham

Chef John Bragg

OYSTER & ARTICHOKE SOUP

Prosciutto Wrapped Chicken with Chevre

I have menued this soup at the Grove Grill since we opened and cooked it at home for Christmas for years.

Ingredients: 3 slices smoked bacon 1/4 cup whole butter 1 cup diced onion 1 ounce diced celery 1 ounce diced leeks 1 can of artichoke bottoms (rinse well) 5 ounce hold back (2 bottoms for garnish) 4 ounces flour 3 cups chicken stock 1 (10 ounce) can fresh oysters 1 cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning Salt & pepper to taste Melt butter in a heavy bottom saucepan at medium-high heat. Slice bacon into 1/4-inch pieces and add to pan. Render bacon, add vegetables holding back on the artichokes. Sauté for 3 to 4 minutes. Add flour and incorporate into vegetables. Add stock and stir well to avoid lumps, turn heat down to medium. Drain oysters, reserve stock and 8 oysters. Add stock and remaining oysters to the soup.

Rough chop the artichoke and add to soup. Bring soup to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Be careful not to allow flour to build up on the bottom of the pan while soup is coming to a simmer, stir with whisk to avoid this, using a hand-held good blender to purée soup. Add heavy cream, Cajun seasoning, salt and pepper. Garnish soup with 1 whole oyster, oyster crackers and a purée of the reserved artichoke bottoms and fresh basil.

Serves 8.

106 Cor k It

Preheat Oven to 375 Ingredients: 1 boneless, skinless chicken breast 2 slices prosciutto 1 oz fresh chevre 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme 1/2 cup sliced mushrooms 1 tablespoon Butter 1/4 cup white wine 1/2 cup heavy cream salt/pepper lemon juice Slice the Chicken Breast lengthwise to create a pocket. Put the goat cheese in the pocket and sprinkle with the thyme. Lay out the slices of prosciutto and place the chicken on top, then fold over to enclose. Lay the sliced Mushrooms on the bottom of a cast iron skillet and put the butter on top Place the chicken on top of the mushrooms and bake for 20 minutes Remove the pan, and set the chicken aside to rest. Put hot pan on burner and add the wine. Reduce by 1/2 and add the cream, Season with Salt/ Pepper and Lemon. Slice chicken and serve with the Mushrooms Sauce Elfo’s Chef Alex Grisanti

DUCK BOLOGNESE This dish always reminds me of our Italian hometown, Lucca. It is a traditional live-off-the-land dish. You can put almost any game meat or vegetable in this dish. You can always continue to add ingredients to this pot for several days. Eating this duck Bolognese is so comforting, it feels like your mother just gave you a hug. I like it paired with a Vietti Barolo

Ingredients: 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 pound mild italian sausage 1 pound duck breast, sliced 1/2 yellow onion, diced 2 carrots, diced 2 celery ribs, diced 1 cup white mushrooms, sliced 2 cups canned whole tomatoes 1 cup white wine 4 cups chicken stock 1/2 cup tomato paste 11/2 cups milk 1 tablespoon fresh sage 1/3 cup parmesan cheese salt & pepper to taste Heat oil in a large pan over medium high heat. Brown sausage and duck breast in the oil, breaking up the sausage with a wooden spoon as it cooks. Remove meat and set aside. Add vegetables (onion through tomatoes) to the pan and cook until softened, approximately 5 minutes. Add white wine and put meat back into the pot. Add chicken stock, tomato paste, milk, sage and Parmesan cheese. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to simmer for several hours. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serve over your favorite pasta.

Serves 4-6

Ruth’s Chris Chef Timujin Rouzier

Ruth’s Sweet Potato Casserole Ingredients Crust mixture: ¾ cup brown sugar ¼ cup flour ¾ cup chopped nuts (pecans preferred) ¼ melted butter Sweet Potato mixture: ¾ cup sugar ¼ tsp salt

MORE RECIPES



THE GROVE GRILL

½ tsp vanilla 2 cups mashed sweet potatoes 1 egg, well beaten ¼ cup butter 1. Combine Crust Mixture in mixing bowl and put to one side 2. 2. Combine Sweet Potato Mixture ingredients in a mixing bowl in the order listed. Combine thoroughly.

3. Pour sweet Potato Mixture into buttered baking dish.

4. Sprinkle Crust Mixture evenly onto surface of sweet Potato Mixture.

5. Bake for 30 minutes at 350 deg. Allow to set for at last 30 minutes before serving.

Napa Cafe Chef Rick Saviori

Baked Snapper with oyster and crab bread pudding, sautéed spinach and chive oil Snapper: snapper 12 - 6oz portions salt pepper 12 thyme sprigs Lightly salt and pepper each side in the fish then place on an oiled baking sheet.

Put a thyme sprig on top of each piece of fish and add a half cup of white wine to the baking sheet. Bake at 350 degrees for about 15-20 minutes depending on thickness.

Spinach: spinach-12 cups fresh spinach salt pepper 2oz butter 4oz olive oil

Sweet Grass Chef Ryan Trimm

Nonnie’s Oyster Dressing

My Nonnie made the best Oyster Dressing every year, and it was always the pinnacle of my Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners. I am happy and proud to share it with you.

Ingredients: 20 slices of bread (crustless), chopped into large pieces 3/4 c butter 1/2 c chopped onion 1/2 c chopped celery 3 T chopped parsley 1/2 t paprika 2 c chicken stock 3 ea eggs (well beaten) 4 pts. oysters and liquor juice of 2 lemons tt salt and pepper

In a large pan add the butter and oil then add the spinach and cook until the leaves start to wilt add salt and pepper to taste.

Oyster Bread Pudding: 8 oz lump crab meat

2-1/2 qts. egg bread

1 cup cream

1 cup milk

5 ea. eggs, whole 2 ea. egg yolks

1 cup green onions, sliced (loosely packed) 1 Tbsp. salt

1/4 tsp. pepper, white

1/8 cup TABASCO® 48 medium oysters, fresh

Add the eggs, cream, and milk to a bowl, cube bread and soak in mixture for 10 minutes. Add all other ingredients and mix well. Place in a baking dish and bake in the over at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes.

Chive oil: 8oz fresh chives ½ cup olive oil Pinch salt and pepper Put all ingredients in a blender and puree.

To plate Cut a nice piece of pudding out and place on center of plate, add spinach on top and then the fish on top of the spinach. Drizzle a little of the chive oil around the plate and enjoy.

Serves 12 Café 1912 Chef Keith Riley

Coconut Pecan Tart Ingredients: 8 eggs 1 cup sugar 24 oz. evaporated milk 4 tsp. vanilla pinch of salt 1 cup (8 oz) melted butter 4 cups toasted coconut 2 cups chopped pecans Beat the eggs. Continue to beat while adding the sugar, milk, vanilla, salt, and butter. Stir in the coconut and pecans.

Pour into two regular pie shells which have been prebaked for about 7 minutes.

Bake at 350 degrees for an additional 15 minutes. Sprinkle with confectioners sugar.

Makes 2 tarts.

Pair with a dessert wine, especially a sweet Riesling.

Chop oysters if large, otherwise leave them whole. Saute Onion and Celery lightly, add parsley. Heat oysters in oyster liquor and lemon juice, add chicken stock, bring to simmer and turn off. Melt butter and pour over bread. Mix all ingredients together in a bowl. Place in greased baking dish and preheat oven to 325. Bake for 40-50 min. at 325, and enjoy.

www.MemphisCor kIt.com 107

photo by Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC

Recently I had a guest request to see the manager regarding the wine list. When I approached him, the guest complained that the restaurant needed to have more “name brand” labels; that he wasn’t familiar with any of the producers nor had he heard of some of the varietals on the list. As I tried to engage him to elaborate on some of his preferences as well as what he might be selecting for dinner, he simply defected to the House pour.

This type of interaction is challenging. As the wine director, you do not want to be defensive whilst protecting the integrity of the selections you’ve procured for the house and it is imperative to remain focused on giving the guest what they’re looking for. But there is also an inherent sense of education that comes along with each selection and you must take care to direct the guest without insulting what they already know about wine. In this particular instance the guest was unwilling to learn and ultimately experience something new that he may love even more than his prided mainstays.

Memphis has long supported a labeldrinking culture. It’s what we knew. If you served Cakebread and Silver Oak you were considered a big deal. And if, as a guest, you ordered these, you were considered to be a connoisseur; “here’s a guy who can pick out and really appreciate a fine wine”. While there is nothing wrong with having favorites and these are certainly great wines, if they are the benchmark of our expectations for wine lists, then somewhere we have all done ourselves a major disservice. I say this with conviction to a city that still reserves Champagne and sparklers only for special occasions, shies away from Rose because it is perceived as “too effeminate” and considers Malbec to be “A walk on the wild side” in the world of wine.

Having a list replete with familiar wines is easily manageable, profitable, and has worked unfailingly for years. It’s a relationship that works all too well; give the guest what

108 Cor k It

It Goes Both Ways By: Andrew Fischer General Manager, Amerigo

they want and make the sale. But what happened to enlightening the guest by offering them something they didn’t know they wanted? Wine is supposed to be an exciting engagement and having the right glass can be an ethereal experience. If you never branch out and allow yourself to discover or be guided to discovery, then how will you broaden your horizons? Where’s the sense of adventure in that?

Arguably until recently, the zeitgeist of Memphis has not seemed ready to evolve toward the thorough and curious relationship to wine that myself and others envision and want to cultivate. The vision of a wine director is critical. The best ones have a thematic guiding principle of personality in the wines they buy. Some specialize within a certain region, or host a selection of wines from all over the world, curated by a certain ethos. One way or another, the selection of wine always represents the personality of the buyer. If there’s no personality, the wines probably aren’t worth buying. Some establishments have wine selections just because they feel obligated to or feel they will miss out on a sale if they don’t cater to the wine drinker. Others simply throw a list of wines together that will move in volume.

A wine list is a form of expression. Most wine directors spend an inordinate amount of time shopping and assembling a list of selections they find most befitting to the concept or the overall ambition of their wine program. It’s equally a fun and exciting job and one that requires a significant amount of time and skill. The marriage of food and wine is always the devoir of the wine director.

A good buyer is always in the market talking with distributors and importers, tasting and searching for the next great region, vintage or wine maker and challenging what is and can be brought to the Memphis market.

What happens when the wine director finds it? It’s always a gamble. As a buyer there is no worse feeling than having to tell an importer after tasting their portfolio that “though the

wines are great, I can’t do anything with them. They simply won’t sell in Memphis”.

This inevitably sparks the conversation about staff training and literature or my personal favorite, “it’s a hand sale”. But, in reality, no amount of any of this is going to put the wine in the consumers hand without the receptiveness of the public. We have a lustful relationship with our Americanized palate, our Pinot Grigio, our fruit bomb reds, the over the top “anything from California will do” and oh, we’re still “not drinking any stinking Merlot”. I acquiesce, there is a time and place for everything but, in general Memphis hasn’t seemed interested in expanding its vocabulary. It starts with us and it starts with you. We all started out ignorant to what was in the bottle, but pride often gets in the way of fleshing out the curiosity. Try a glass of Soave, Rioja, Madeira, Sauterne, Pinotage, Priorat or anything out of the comfort of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and see what the world of wine has to offer.

Long gone are the days when wine shelves were stocked with generic table wines.

Wine education as a whole is growing and the general public is more discerning of what they purchase and their thirst for what else is out there. It’s a marriage that requires reciprocity. So if we, as the buyers and distributorships, make the effort to go in search of new and exciting regions, boutique vineyards, and up and coming wine stars, just to have the opportunity to serve you something different; don’t sit down, peruse the list, and go with what you know. Engage us and we’ll engage you by pouring something beautiful in your glass. It may not be exactly what you came for but it just might be the gateway that leads to a greater adoration of wine.

•

Amerigo

1239 Ridgeway Road, Memphis TN 38119 (901) 761-4000 www.Amerigo.net Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia

Hamilton Russell Chardonnay with Cheese Fritters This is one of our absolute favorite wines right now.

Everything about this wine from the packaging down to the juice itself exhibits meticulous craft and quality. At first we were a bit uneasy pairing these two, but the wine’s Burgundian stylization of biscuity oak, wet mushroom and hazelnut show beautifully against the infusion of the cheddar, horseradish and honey mustard laden cheese fritters. Exceptional wine and fried cheese, need we say more.

Monchhof Mosel Slate Riesling Spatlese with Chicken Acuto This is such a user friendly wine that absolutely over delivers every time we taste it. Rieslings from the Mosel region are very versatile in food pairings, with their altitudinal floral softness and definitive backbone imparted from the minerality of the slate. Here we’ve paired it with wood fire grilled chicken atop a black bean salsa, green beans and finished with a spiced olive oil. The high acidity helps break down the protein and wash clean the olive oil while the balanced sugar and nectarine flavors standup to the spice of the cilantro and cracked pepper.

At eight percent alcohol you can enjoy this bottle and not feel guilty.

Allegrini Palazzo della Torre with Spiced Lamb Ragu Produced in the stylistic approach of Ripasso’s, it’s comprised predominately of Corvina, Rondinella, and Sangiovese. It offers notes of dried cherries, plums, and root beer cola.

We chose this pairing as it compliments the duality of the richness of the sauce - brought out from the braising of the lamb shoulder with tomatoes, Cayenne and Red Pepper - and the cool coated mouth feel of fresh gemilli pasta.

Finishing this dish off with Bonnie Blue Farms Feta cheese subdues the spice of the ragout and excites the nuttiness imparted from the air-dried fruit indicative of the Ripasso style. www.MemphisCor kIt.com 109

Cornerstone Cellars 6505 Washington Street, Ste. 7 • Yountville, CA 94599 www.CornerstoneCellars.com

Winemaker - Jeff Keene Director of Marketing - Amanda DesForges Tasting Room - Laura Weaver

Today, I visited Cornerstone’s tasting room in Yountville. Bright and airy, the home-like feel of this place was nothing less than welcoming. Being that Cornerstone is owned by Memphians, I definitely felt close to home!!

Today We had: 2009 Cornerstone Cellars Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc

2007 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

flavor. The rich, creamy flavor matches with

St. Helena. Lovely aromas, zesty, acidic.

YUM! Flagship wine. Inky color, almost black.

crab and lobster.

Terrific with seafood, preferably shellfish.

Dark fruit, rose; cherry and cassis. Hint of

2010 Stepping Stone Sauvignon Blanc Powerful and intense aromatics and luscious

leather, earthiness. Intense palate: tobacco,

Stepping Stone by Cornerstone 2010 Stepping Stone Riesling Carneros, 100%

2010 Stepping Stone Corallina Syrah Rose Yum! Strawberry, rose petal, metal.

Perfect for serious hot weather culinary

Dry, crisp, delicate style. Soft notes of white flowers, adventures. honey suckle, melon and spice gently sweep over hints of mineral and flint. Firm, dry style matches with Sole, crab and lobster.

2007 Cornerstone Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Pipe tobacco, potting soil, very complex and rich. Black cherries, round finish.

2008 Stepping Stone Cabernet Sauvignon Smoky nose, smooth, concentrated. Multi-layered wine where the dark, rich fruit dominates as the palate expands, but the acid remains lively, juicy and focused with richness. The tannins are long.

110 Cor k It

chocolate, spice. Luxurious and silky finish.

2008 Stepping Stone Cabernet Franc YUM! Pepper nose, black cherry, chocolate.

Acid, chewiness in mid palate.

- Cork it! Resources -

Amerigo Italian Restaurant

CFY Catering

With a casual atmosphere, Amerigo is cozy and upbeat with personalized, polished service and fresh, high quality food and wine. Our wood-fired grill and wood-fired oven cooking set our passion for preparing the finest traditional Italian ingredients with an American and Mediterranean twist.

CFY Catering, LLC is dedicated to making your event truly memorable. We specialize in catering couture, allowing us to create a unique dining experience that is reflective of you. We believe food should be entertaining, hors d’oeuvres whimsical, dinners classic, and every event different from the last.

901.761.4000

901-213-4514

www.amerigo.net

www.cfycatering.com

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen

Cheers Wines & Spirits

Friends since childhood, Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman were always passionate about food. Being raised by large Italian families, the two young men were constantly surrounded by family, friends and incredible meals. Mary Spinosa (originally from Sengola, Italy, Andrew Ticer’s grandmother) and Catherine Chiozza (born in Alesandria, Italy, Michael Hudman’s grandmother) were the first to take them into the kitchen, expertly teaching them the essentials of Italian cooking. The dream of opening their own restaurants one day came about in 1994, eating their grandmothers’ ravioli.

Cheers Wines & Spirits is centrally located in Collierville near the intersection of Poplar Avenue and Byhalia Road.

A neighborhood atmosphere and knowledgeable staff ensure Cheers customers a pleasant shopping experience.

Whatever your style, experience or budget, we can provide recommendations, assist you with new selections, or provide guidance for your special occasion. Cheers Wines & Spirits is dedicated to bringing the best from the vine to our customers. Ask us your questions! We’ll be ready with an interesting suggestion or information to share regarding the wines and spirits that interest you.

901-347-3569 Andrewmichaelitaliankitchen.com

901-853-2211

Buster’s Wine & Liquors

Circa by John Bragg

Buster’s is Tennessee’s premier wine shop boasting the state’s largest volume and selection of wine and spirits with over 10,000 items in stock. Buster’s has been voted the #1 Best Wine Store in Memphis through The Commercial Appeal and The Memphis Flyer’s Readers Poll.

At Buster’s, “We Have Your Spirit.”

Remember the first time you tasted an extraordinary dish, or a unique, exciting new wine? This is Chef John Bragg’s conception of Circa, his restaurant in East Memphis: special culinary moments echoing the excitement and newness of early 20th century dining, transplanted with the Millennial sophistication and global outlook we apply to food and wine today.

901-458-0929

901.746.9130

www.bustersliquors.com

Cafe 1912

Elfo’s Restaurant

Café 1912 is a casual, friendly, sometimes noisy bistro, offering a mix of French, Italian and New Orleans/ Caribbean cuisines at moderate prices.

The open kitchen offers a menu that is wide-ranging: soups, salads, crepes, steak, and seafood. The wines are selected to both complement the food and offer the customer a good wine at a moderate price. Offering numerous wines by the glass allows the customer to explore matching different dishes with different wines.

901.722.2700

www.circamemphis.com

www.cafe1912.com

Elfo’s speaks of a time-honored tradition of excellence begun by Alex’s great-grandfather Rinaldo in 1903.

Rinaldo Grisanti followed by his sons and then their sons have established the Grisanti name and the fine tradition of La Famiglia Grisanti Tuscan Cuisine.

Elfo’s: Defined by our name!

901-753-4017

Elfos.us

www.MemphisCor kIt.com 111

5040 Sanderlin Avenue Suite 105 Memphis, Tennessee 38117 Erling Jensen, The Restaurant

For 14 years Erling’s has been a leader in the world of food and wine, setting a high standard for fine dining in Memphis and the Mid-South. Our approach to cuisine is simple: globally inspired and classically executed. We feature the freshest ingredients to produce meals of the finest quality. As the seasons change, we reinvent our menu creating fresh challenges for us and pleasant surprises for you. This approach is embedded in the French tradition and it reflects our commitment to provide our guests with a healthy and imaginative cuisine.

901.763.3700

www.ejensen.com

Lucchesi’s Ravoli & Pasta Company, Inc Lucchesi’s Ravioli and Pasta Company is a unique shopping experience, with family traditions brought from Florence, Italy to Memphis at the turn of the century over 100 years ago.

Our pasta is fresh and made daily. Homemade restaurant quality Italian meals are ready when you are - drop by and pick up fresh pasta, ravioli, lasagna, sauce, and Italian spinach.

Italy at your door! Call to pick up or order online.

901-766-9922

Lucchesis.com

Gemini Multimedia

Memphis Brooks Museum of Art

No matter what your event, Gemini multimedia will provide unequaled photo and video coverage.

Sessions are available 24 x 7! Gemini Multimedia’s owner, Ande Demetriou, is the exclusive photographer for Cork it! magazine’s second edition.

The Memphis Brooks Museum of Art is one of the largest art museums in the American South. Its permanent collection includes over 9,000 works of art ranging from antiquity to present.

The most successful and highest profile fundraising event for the Brooks is the Memphis Wine + Food Series, a series of wine events and lifestyle auctions taking place each spring.

901-213-7890

901.544.6200

Great Wines and Spirits

Memphis Farmers Market

Great Wines & Spirits is a store in which I want to shop,’ says owner Gary Burhop. Our name says it all - personal service, knowledge we share freely and a tremendous selection of wine and spirits in all price ranges with a high quality to price ratio representing excellent value.

Under the shade of the downtown Central Station Pavilion, the Memphis Farmers Market is open every Saturday, April through October, from 7A to 1P. With more than 80 area farmers and artisans, the market is free to the public and provides access to fresh produce, meats, cheeses, eggs and more, plus handmade crafts and baked goods. With kids’ activities, chef demos and live music, the market is a lively community-gathering place for everyone in the Mid-South.

901-682-1333

www.memphisfarmersmarket.org

www.greatwinesmemphis.com

Interim Bar and Restaurant Interim Bar and Restaurant opened on January 23, 2007.

A highly visual state of the art kitchen is fused with the dining rooms to enhance the relationship between the Chef and his audience of patrons. The constant flow of activity and artistic food presentation are an integral part of the dining experience.

RESTAU R A N T & B A R Your palate will be peaked as the savory aromas from the 5040 Sanderlin Avenue Chef’s |culinary preparations spill out into the dining room.

5040 Sanderlin Avenue | 901.818.0821 interimrestaurant.com Suite 105 Interim’s climate controlled wine room is also a focal point Memphis, Tennessee 38117 behind a glass wall bordering the dining room on one side.

brooksmuseum.org

Memphis Maintenance Group Licensed General contractor. Commercial and residential design and construction of specialty projects.

Interim

901-818-0821

www.InterimRestaurant.com

G·r·i·l·l·e

Jim’s Place Grille opened in Collierville in 2006. However, it has been a family owned and operated restaurant in Memphis since 1921. Jim’s Place Grille offers handcut steaks, fresh seafood and greek influenced dishes.

Aside from the upscale casual atmosphere, it also has a remarkable bar area and a great private dining room for any occasion!

901.861.5000

112 Cor k It

www.memphismaintenance.com

Napa Cafe

Jim’s Place Grille

Jim’s Place

901-578-5107

www.jimsplacegrille.com

Napa Cafe is an independent and locally owned restaurant that specializes in fresh seafood, grass fed beef and game. The wine list shares the spotlight and is constantly evolving. One of the unique aspects of the list are the pages with selected wines. The Well Traveled page contains unique varietals from all over the world, Queen of the Vine highlights female winemakers and proprietors and The Organics feature organic and biodynamic wines. Great service is the key to link it all together. The knowledgeable and accommodating staff enhance the whole experience at Napa Cafe.

901.683.0441

www.napacafe.com

Star Distributors Wholesale Wine and Liquors

Natalie’s Liquor Warehousse

Natalie’s

Liquor Warehouse

Natalie’s has been serving the Cordova area for over 15 years. We have one of the largest selections of fine wines and spirits with thousands of labels all displayed in our 7000 sq ft store. Our friendly staff are always ready to help you with the perfect selection for any occasion!

901-751-4232

Star Distributors is proud to represent the world’s finest producers of wines and spirits. We strive to provide exemplary products, sales, service and support to our customers and suppliers while focusing on methods that drive growth and value through market awareness and brand building experience.

901-363-5555

www.nataliesliquor.com

Newman Farm Heritage Berkshire Pork

Sweet Grass

417-938-4391

901.278.0278

www.newmanfarm.com

www.ruthschris.com

901.818.9951

Southwestern Distributing

JANUARY 21, 2012

Best Shrimp and Grits in town! Casual Dining, Fine Cuisine.

Call it what you like, it’s always on Memphis’ Best Restaurant list. Executive Chef Joshua Perkins use the freshest fish, the choicest meat and locally grown produce to create a menu including Jumbo Lump Crab cakes, Mahogany Roast Duckling, wood grilled steaks, the best oysters the Gulf has to offer, and Chef’s seasonal “Small Plate” menu. Private dining rooms for 12 to 55. Reservations, 818-9951, 4550 Poplar in Laurelwood Shopping Center, Lunch 11:00 - 2:30, Sunday Brunch and Dinner 5:30 seven days a week.

Complement your meal with a selection from our award-winning wine list, featuring over 260 world-class international and domestic labels.

BRITISH INVASION

www.sweetgrassmemphis.com

The Grove Grill

Ruth’s Chris Steak House in Memphis believes their guests deserve the very best. Each steak is hand-selected and broiled to perfection at 1800 degrees to lock in that delicious flavor.

901.761.0055

Sweet Grass is a neighborhood bistro, specializing in low country cuisine. Chef Ryan Trimm tries to use as much local ingredient as possible and the kitchen makes most everything in house. Recently, Sweet Grass added Next Door, a comfortable place to catch the game or grab a drink after work. The menu is composed of creative bar snacks and classic appetizers. Reservations are recommended for Sweet Grass, but Next Door is designed for walk ins only.

Newman Farm Heritage Berkshire Pork is located in the Southern Ozarks near Myrtle, Missouri. We are a small family farm where raising the highest quality Purebred Berkshire Pork and Dorper Lamb outdoors on pasture has been our only business. We encourage everyone to come visit to see why our pork and lamb is not just different - its better! “The Proof is in the Taste!”

Interested in becoming a Pork-A-Holic - watch for the date of out next Fork, Cork, Pork and Lamb event in the spring of 2012.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House

www.StarMemphis.com

www.thegrovegrill.com

The Stellar Cellar Wine & Spirits

We are a beverage wholesaler dedicated to providing excellent service to West Tennessee since 1939. We proudly distribute fine wines, liquors and high gravity ales, and we also have an incredible selection of craft beers from around the globe.

The Stellar Cellar is Memphis’ fastest growing wine store.

With over 2,500 labels in stock, we have the wine for every occasion. Our staff wants to make your wine experience as simple and pleasurable as possible. Enjoy your holiday season and please come visit us soon. After all, wine’s fun here!

901-272-9648

901-371-8232

St. Jude Red Carpet Bash

The Victor Robilio Company

Join us for the 11th annual St. Jude Red Carpet Bash on Saturday, January 21, 2012 at Hollywood Casino Tunica.

This black tie optional “British Invasion” themed event will feature entertainment by DJ Mark Anderson’s Party Train and live and silent auctions. Tickets $100 or Table of 10 $1,000.

901-373-5051

www.stjude.org/redcarpetbash

The

Victor Robilio Company

The Victor L. Robilio Company is a premium wholesale wine and liquor company representing alcohol beverages from around the world. We also sell specialty beers with more than 6% alcohol and a selection of non-alcohol products including Whiskey Willy’s bloody mary mix and D. J. Dotson’s triple sec.

901-362-0933

robilio.com

www.MemphisCor kIt.com 113

____________________________________________ United Liquors Corporation

____________________________________________

Established in 1948, United Liquors Corporation in Memphis, Tennessee has become one of the top distributors of fine wines and spirits in the West Tennessee area. Through the years we have steadily built upon our efforts to maintain an excellent relationship with both our suppliers and customers as we act as the liaison between the two.

____________________________________________ ____________________________________________ ____________________________________________ ____________________________________________

901-794-5540

www.unitedliquorscorp.com

____________________________________________ ____________________________________________

Wine Notes

____________________________________________ ____________________________________________ ____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

____________________________________________

114 Cor k It

11TH ANNUAL

PRESENTS BRITISH INVASION 21 JAN 2012 HOLLYWOOD CASINO TUNICA MUSIC BY DJ MARK ANDERSON’S PARTY TRAIN COCKTAILS + DINNER + LIVE AUCTION + SILENT AUCTION

TICKETS $100

TABLE OF TEN $1,000

WWW.STJUDE.ORG/REDCARPETBASH 901.373.5051 RED CARPET BASH COMMITTEE: Christie Heros McGee Jennifer Adams Jo Ann Moss Paul Boyle Amy & Ben Mrva Sherry Brooks Jessica Davis Neil Olivia Buffington Mary Gattas Parker Isabel & Wei Chen Lee Gattas Proctor Scott Ellis Jenny & Matt Savage Sarah Faquin Meg Schaffler Lindsey & Josh Hammond Michelle Snowden Catherine & Ricky Harris Libbie & David Seuss Whitney Orth Hegedus Sharon Shipley Andrea & Matt Lacher Kathleen Smith McRae Lenahan Alyana Lewis Samantha Smith Stacy & Paul Lucchesi, Jr. Shelly & Michael Thannum Brittany McDonald Melanie & Kerr Tigrett