The Stell Part Two

Alec Burns On The Figurehead Bob Smith

The Stell

Whiteheugh

Raven’s Crag

Caller Crag , Corby’s and Edlingham

Greensheen Hill

Parkside Wood

The Maiden Chambers Area

St Cuthbert’s Cave

The Bowden Area

The Wanneys Group

Beanly Moor and Hunterheugh

Blakey’s Bloc

Cockenheugh

Kyloe Out

Rothley

The Ravensheugh Area

Banno Crags

Titlington and the Turban

South Yardhope

Brady’s Crag

Coquet View

Shitlington

Lostworld

Lookwide

Howlerhirst

High Crag

Northumbrian Mountaineering Club Supplement

A series of downloadable PDF guides to new bouldering venues , problems, highballs and routes in Northumberland, including:

NMC Northumbrian Mountaineering Club

The Stell—A Bouldering Guide Part Two

...Northumberland Bouldering

Introduction...

TECHNICAL NOTES

BOULDERING GRADES

The location of each crag is indicated by its Grid Reference.

General

It is true to say that there are only two grades, the problems and routes you can do, and those you can’t. To the keen boulderer however it soon becomes apparent that this can be sub divided into the problems you can do and your mates can’t, and vice versa! Grading boulder problems (and some routes) is an almost impossible task. The table below is a rough comparison of the common systems in use. Visitors to the County will probably find that, until they get used to the style of the problems and the intricacies of climbing on the County’s various Sandstones, the accuracy of the table will be questionable. Grades are an art rather than a science, and while difficulty is central to bouldering , it is easily confused with quality. The pursuit of which is an equally rewarding endeavour.

On occasions the problems are referenced to routes that are not described in the climbing guide, or in the second edition bouldering guide. These are highlighted in blue italics. You may need these guides or to ask a local climber help you locate the problems.

The various grading systems are well understood, and like grades are an ongoing source of debate regarding their respective merits.

Sit Starts

In these PDF guides we have retained the Font grades introduced in the last guidebook and their use is now established and understood.

Maps The County is covered by seven Ordnance Survey Explorer (1:25,000) maps. Sheets 339 (Kelso), 340 (Holy Island), OL16 (The Cheviot Hills), 332 (Alnwick and Amble), OL42 (Kielder Water), 325 (Morpeth) and OL43 (Hadrian’s Wall). The majority of the crags lie on sheets 340 and 332.

Most problems are written up as standing starts off one mat only! Generally sit starts are added at the end of a description where they add either to the difficulty, or quality. Only rarely will a sit start be separately named.

Rules It has long been understood in Northumberland that if a twig is found on a ‘good’ foothold, then the foothold is out of bounds. The same applies to bedding planes , ledges and footholds in contact with the ground. Usually these are out of bounds. The previous guide wisely suggested that if you are wondering if the foothold is in, then it probably is not!

Further Information The NMC website has a variety of resources relating to climbing in the County. If you have this PDF you’ve probably found it already. Otherwise go to: www.thenmc.org.uk

New Problems

FONT

UK TECH

V GRADE

3

4c

VB

4

5a

Highballs The height of many crags in the County demands a highball approach. Mats can reduce the consequences when highballing goes wrong, but there comes a point when they look very small.

Many of these ‘problems’ would have been considered small routes not long back, (though some in this new series are not so small) and occasionally are compounded with bad landings. Falling off them should not be treated casually. While it should be self-evident, those that fall into this category get an (H) symbol indicating the potential Highball, Helicopter and Hospital factor.

Be careful!

V0 4+ 5 5+

Steve Blake Shitlington Wall Shitlington

Bob Smith Greensheen Slopers Traverse Greensheen Hill

Photo: Alec Burns

V1 5c

6a 6a+

V2 6a

V3

6b 6b+ 6c

Descriptions of new problems and routes should be sent to newroutes @thenmc.org.uk. A description, grade, date and name of first ascentionist should be included. A photo with a line marking the route would also help.

5b

V4 6b

V5

6c+ 7a 7a+

V6 6c

V7

7b 7b+

V8

7c

V9

7c+

V10

8a

7a

8a+ 8b 8b

V11 V12

7b

V13 V14

...Northumberland Bouldering

Introduction...

without beating it into submission. We need to have enough humility to understand that the rock’s needs are more important than our egos. Learn to walk away and come back when you’re capable.

SUSTAINABILITY The quality and durability of Sandstone in Northumberland varies significantly both on and between crags. Iron hard rock with a case hardened patina can coexist with a super soft cheesy substance soft enough to be shaped by hand.

Sadly there is much evidence that the tough patina when worn away reveals a soft inner that rapidly erodes. There are many examples, but Vienna at Bowden Doors is probably the most famous example, which in its current deplorable state is a much easier and sad shadow of the original .

3. Be gentle with brushwork, and minimal with your chalk. Climbing indoors, we can brush the holds to our hearts content; outdoors, the effect can be catastrophic.

4.

Poor footwork also impacts, so clean your shoes before you begin an attempt. Modern shoes allow a huge amount of force to be exerted through the feet, eg twisting on smears has a grinding effect that speeds up erosion. Be aware, use good footwork and tread lightly.

5.

Don’t use the problems for training. Running laps may look cool, but do it indoors on plastic, not on the rock.

6.

Take your junk home, don’t light fires, don’t leave gates open. If you must, learn how to shit in the woods. Do not be generally antisocial.

Over the last thirty years the popularity of Rock Climbing and Bouldering has accelerated and there is much similar evidence of our impact on the crags. Routes and problems on Sandstone, especially on fragile and well-used Sandstone, are a finite resource and need careful and sensitive protection if they are to survive.

It is worth repeating that you should not climb on sandstone when there is any evidence of dampness. The rock becomes significantly weaker losing its bonding when damp, and is susceptible to accelerated erosion and breakage. Once a break occurs, or the outer patina is penetrated, then the effects of erosion are exponential.

David Murray On Barnaby Rudge The Good Book Section, The Stell.

Alec Burns collection

Vienna Bowden Doors

Many magnificent routes in Northumberland have escaped significant damage, principally because the habit of top roping hard routes has not been adopted as readily as elsewhere. Bouldering however, is a particularly intensive game which can see a team cycling through repeated attempts on a problem, brushing and ragging between each effort. The impact of this can be seen on relatively recent problems on which holds are already bleaching out., and this is on rock thought of as hard.

We are the stewards of these places. There are many things we can do to minimise our direct impact on them: 1. Everyone should acknowledge and understand the fragility of the medium and learn to walk away if there is any suggestion of dampness and the rock is not in condition.

2. Set yourself a realistic number of attempts at a problem, if you can’t do it, leave it until you can do it

The Stell

...The Stell

OS Map Sheet OL332 : GR 064041 Altitude: 213m

Right of Access Under CROW

Alnwick

Aspect: North West Facing Approach: 15 Minutes LOCATION AND CHARACTER Rothbury

The crag is located on Debdon Moor, approximately 1.5 miles north of Rothbury, a market town north west of Morpeth, and south west of Alnwick. Rothbury and its environs are shown on OS 1:50,000 map sheet 81 and the 1:25,000 sheet OL332 at GR 064041.

A697

A1

The crag is approximately 120m long and faces north west. It catches the afternoon and evening sun in the summer. It is exposed and doesn’t carry much drainage. As such it dries out quickly. This also means that if the wind is blowing from the west then you will feel it.

The crag is on Access Land and climbers have a right of access to the crags. However the moor has signs of being a managed shoot. It is possible that applications for temporary closure could be applied for. These would have to be agreed by Natural England and posted on the Access Land web site. This can be found at www.openaccess.naturalengland.org.uk.

Morpeth

The diagrams opposite should be sufficient to get a newcomer to the crag.

The rock is good quality, blocky fell sandstone, which has probably been quarried in antiquity. The problems range in difficulty from 5+ through to 8b. There are both highballs and problems of a more modest height, and many will test your mantling technique to complete them in good style. Despite having been climbed on since 2008 some problems are showing signs of wear. The large side hold of Stuck In The Middle is already taking a beating. Please tread lightly.

B6341

Steve Blake On The Joker

Rothbury

Approach Parking is available in the Debdon Forest pullout on the west side of the Rothbury/Alnwick road (B6341) Please do not block either the access to the forestry yard, or the main track which provides access for farms on Debdon Moor.

The crag is a 15 minute walk from the parking area. Follow the track west, and once through the gate follow another track north. This passes through a small quarry and then a birchwood. Once clear of the wood, strike north across the moor, passing to the right of the power pole. The crag can’t be seen but will be reached in five minutes, following a variety of quad and sheep tracks cross the moor. Note that it is prone to being boggy, but a wet hike does not necessarily mean the crag will be damp.

1

B6341

P

2

...The Stell

Introduction...

The Left Hand Section

HISTORY The crag was discovered in 2008 by Steve Blake as part of his ongoing forensic exploration of the County’s undiscovered crags. It was a surprising discovery given the crag is marked on the map and can be seen from the Carriage Walk (a popular ramble to the West of Debdon Moor). Its discovery is all the more fortuitous given Steve almost turned back when nothing could be seen on the first approach.

Matterhorn Block

Last & First

Blocky Block

Development by Steve and the ‘Back in the Day’ team followed pretty promptly . Blake snapped up the highball lines on the pinnacle and several shorter problems on the rest of the crag. These lines were either cleaned on the go or with a very long cleaning brush! They are all excellent. Bob Smith, Alec Burns, Ian and David Murray, and John Earl all got in on the act. Bob’s Wandering Minstrel traverse being notable, as is the mantle problem on the Blocky Block. Martin Waugh eventually subdued the steep Doctor’s Orders and Chris Sowden, a Yorkshire visitor, nipped in to claim the steep Sowden’s Roof.

Chris Graham visited and added a characteristically hard and direct start to Stuck in the Middle, while Dan Varian was made aware of the crag after a Mark Savage photo shoot. After a number of visits, Dan’s steely fingers established Great Expectations, (the hardest problem on the crag) . He, or Aido Holt, climbed the slopers and mantle to the left of Stuck’s (very) direct start thus adding a very hard and direct start to the Clown on the pinnacle . There may be others yet to do but they will undoubtedly be very hard and eliminate in their nature.

The Centre The Neb

Wandering Minstrel

Great Expectations

The crag is described from Left to Right. Key features are the Blocky Block, the Matterhorn Block, the Neb, the Great Expectations Block, Moby Dick and the West Wall.

The Right Hand Section West Wall

Great Expectations

Moby Dick

Steve Blake Making use of his span.

Stuck in the Middle.

Bob Smith The Doldrums

2

3

The Stell…

…The M atterhorn

The Wandering Minstrel…

24

...The Stell

25

21

22 21. The Gully Wall Sit Start.

22.

23 16

6b+ SB

Up the innocuous arête.

The Lonely Block. 6b+ BS

Dan Adams On The Bookend

Sit Start. Gain the arête and layaway up this to an awkward finish.

Mark Savage collection

23. Holly Wall. 6b BS Sit Start. Gain the arête and layaway up this to an awkward finish. A variety of foot rules can be applied …..

24.

The Wandering Minstrel.

6C BS

This is something of a ballad. Start with some hard , low level crimping, span the gap to a pocket and some palming action, cross the crack and continue with your hands on the edge. Excellent!

25.

Slapple.

6b+ BS

From an obvious slot pull up to a crimp then the large sloper, making a long reach from this to the top.

26. The Bookend.

6b+ BS

The impending indefinite arête of the Wandering Minstrel. Small fingerholds facilitate a clamp.

Some cunning heel work leads to a difficult finish.

4

26

27

5

The Wandering Minstrel…

...The Stell

The Neb…

...The Stell

29

27

28

26

29

It is the sign of these modern times that an ‘interesting’ eliminate which uses the hands on 26 and hooks feet onto 25 has been established. Photographic evidence suggests it responds well to a technique which would come naturally to a Land Crab!

Aido Holt Holt On Mark Savage Photography

It has not been possible to establish which body parts reach the top first

26. The Bookend

27. The Crack. 4…… Dare you?

28.

The Concave Wall.

6b

SB

Up large crimps to reach the top, palm along this to the left and rock over to finish.

29.

Martin’s Arete. 7b

AH (Martin Waugh generously let Aido ‘have a try1)

The left side of the angled nose. Pull out up the vertical wall.

30.

Unpleasant Medicine. 7a+ MW

The right side of the nose, again pull out up the short wall.

30 An interesting eliminate uses the hands on 26, and feet on 25!...................

Martin Waugh Unpleasant Medicine Mark Savage Photography

6

7

The Stell…

...The Good B ook Bloc

The Good Book Bloc…

...T he Stell

Great Expectations was one of Dan’s Northumbrian obsessions. The challenge it posed was obvious, the fingertip nicks at chest height were noted and fondled on the first visit, but needed a strength and technique beyond that which the initial developers possessed. Of the several local activists perhaps capable, Dan stepped forward and invested the necessary time, effort and frustration to complete the problem.

Currently the problem has been done from the stand, while from the sit Dan has established himself on the wall. From the stand Dan considers it 8a+ . It is by far the hardest problem at the crag. Dan considers this an open project. Get to it!

31 32

33

The Good Book Bloc 31.

Barnaby Rudge. 6b+ DM

Standing on the block, pull onto the wall reach up to the lip and rock out the finish.

32.

Great Expectations.

8a+ DV

Like the original, this will be a weekly serial for most! The hardest problem currently on the crag Sit Start. Tiny ,two-tip crimps lead rightwards to a veritable jug at the junction with Hard Times. Up and over.

33.

Hard Times.

7a

SB

Sit Start (the boulder to the right is out). Up the arête to the finger jug, move left to top out. 6b+ from standing.

Dan Varian Great Expectations Mark Savage Photography

8

9

The Stell…

...The Doldrums

The Doldrums…

...The Stell

35

36

37

The First Tower .

35.

The Wall. 6b

CM

Up the Wall to the overlap and a positive hold. Reach left then up to the top

34

36.

Canny Crack

5+

CM

The leaning crack throughout.

34. Bilberry Wall.

6c

?

The delicate slab past the Bilberries. Both the Bilberries and Heather will probably disappear with time.

10

The Second Tower 37.

No Joke

6c

SB

Easily up the wall, pull over the overhang to an awkward finish. Another quiet night’s work, no spotters and a wobbly top out!

11

The Stell…

...T he Doldrums

The Doldrums…

...The Stell

Bob Smith 38

39

40

The Bowsprit

41

Alec Burns

To the right of the prow is a vertical wall with two problems. Another, on a blunt arête, will be found by following the gully to the right .

The Bow 38.

The Pequod .

6b+ AB

The left side of the obvious prow.

40.

39.

SS From the good hold, small flakes lead to the break. Undercut this up and left to an awkward exit.

The Bowsprit .

6b+ AB

Up the bow making like a figurehead….See the rear cover and above right. Very steep!

41.

Call me Ishmeal. 6b+ SB

Queequeg. 6b

SB

Follow the edge up and right. Pass the bilberries to the second ramp and up this to yet another awkward finish. It gets sneakily up high—watch out!

Ian Murray The Pequod Alec Burns

12

Katie Mundy Call me Ishmael Mark Savage collection

13

The Stell…

...Moby Dick 42.

Downfall 6c

Moby Dick…

...The Stell

SB

Sit Start the blunt arête .

In the early stages of development, Steve Blake stepped through a heather cornice and back flipped into the gully, landing on his feet at the base of the rib.

There are many other mantraps on the top of the crag —beware!

42 45 44

44. Moby Dick Left 6b+ 43. The Wee Block

6a

JE

SB

Moby Dick Right 7a

Sit Start — really you must!

From the back of the recess, traverse the diagonal break. Pull over the overhang and depending on your mood exit left, or right.

45. Ahab

43

6c BS

From the back of the overhang follow the break out left, reach up into a hold in the crack. Span out to an edge and them a hold on the lip. Pull out over the roof to another Stell mantle!

Katie Mundy On Ahab Mark Savage Photography

Steve Blake Moby Dick Alec Burns

14

15

The Stell…

...The Smiling Bloc

The Smiling Bloc…

...The Stell

49 48

46

47 Stu Campbell The Smiling Block left Mark Savage Collection 46. The Smiling Bloc Left. 6c

The Smiling Bloc Right.

6b

48. Easy Groove.

49.

Wipe That Smile.

5.

MW 7a

Micky Stainthorpe SB

Sit Start. From the small flake, pull over the wall to, you guessed it, another Stell mantle!

50.

MW

A morpho sit start. Easier for the short to start, but followed by a big span which leads to a difficult finish!.

47.

50

Ooh–er Wall.

Wipe That Smile Mark Savage Collection

7a+ MW

Similar to, but harder than its neighbour. Using the poor crescent and crimp, pull up to the obvious hold on the lip

AB

Use holds on the arête to reach up to a hold on the left.

16

17

The Stell…

...First & Last

First & Last…

...The Stell

54

55 53

53

51 51 51

52

53 53

Girdle Lover.

6c.

54

MW

The obvious mid height traverse, linking into ‘Wee Cracker’ From the prominent flat hold pull and lean right to the break and arête. Join the Original and continue past its exit with your hands on the top.

52.

Wee Cracker.

6a

54

55

The Problems on the First and Last Block can be intermingled to suit your mood. They are shown in their original state. But play around and mix and match at will—it’s all fun!

51.

55

Bob Smith The Man from the Ministry Bob Smith Collection

SB

Sit Start. The thin crack.

53.

The Arete.

6b

SB

SS follow the arête, it’s difficult not too….

54.

The Original.

6c

SB

The first problem established on the crag. Pull up the arête and span right onto the crescent , continue right and pull over at its end.

Tim Blake

55.

The Original

The Centre.

6b

SB

Steve Blake Collection

18

19

...The Stell

The Stell...

THE FAR SIDE

Chris Sowden The Reach

Opposite the main crag about 250m North are a collection of boulders with a couple of established problems.

Bob Smith

56

First Ascent Details: SB

-

Steve Blake

Old - 6’1’’ 69kg Past his best. Moderately strong.

BS

-

Bob Smith

Older - Small 55kg, in decline, flexible - techy.

DV -

Dan Varian

Young , strong & technical

CG -

Chris Graham

Not quite so young , but still very strong

MW -

Martin Waugh

Old, and Strong but like an aging racehorse very tweaky!

AH -

Aido Holt

Younger and stronger, not tweaky.

AB -

Alec Burns

Old, declined but still fighting gravity

JE

John Earl

The Oldest!

DM -

David Murray

Was the youngest—not any more—Strong.

CS

-

Chris Sowden

Old but probably the lightest by quite a stretch!

CM -

Craig Mahone

20

-

Steve Blake The Clown Mark Savage Photography

21