County climber summer 2007

Northumbrian Mountaineering Club

Quarterly Magazine - June 2007

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About the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club (NMC) The NMC is a meeting point for climbers, fell walkers and mountaineers of all abilities.

Our activities centre on rock-climbing in the summer and snow and ice climbing in the winter.

Meets are held regularly throughout the year.

The NMC is not, however a commercial organization and does NOT provide instructional courses.

NMC Meets The NMC Members’ handbook (available to all members) and the NMC website list the dates and locations of all meets.

This magazine lists the meets arranged for the next few months.

Non-members: Are always welcome to attend meets.

Note: Winter indoor meets require a minimum of prospective membership (see below) due to venue requirements for third party insurance.

Membership Details Members are Prospective until they fulfill the conditions for Full Membership (see membership form.) Full membership is valid for one year from the end of February. Prospective membership expires at the end of March each year.

Membership gets you: • Copy of the quarterly magazine.

NMC Quarterly Magazine

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BMC Public Liability Insurance for climbing incidents.

Discounted NMC guide books.

Discounted entry at certain indoor climbing walls.

Access to the extensive NMC library

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Join the NMC Download a Membership form from: www.thenmc.org.uk Send the signed and completed membership form with a cheque made out to the NMC for the membership fee (see below) to the Membership Secretary at the address shown on the membership form.

Membership Fees •Full £22 •Prospective £10.00

Quarterly Magazine Contributions to this magazine are always welcome - photos are especially welcome.

Send Contributions to: magazine@thenmc.org.uk

Get this Magazine FASTER If you received this magazine as a paper copy, you may be interested to learn that you can get it a lot faster as a free download from our website.

To arrange for email notification that the latest issue of the magazine is ready for you to download, contact the membership secretary at: secretary@thenmc.org.uk

July 2007

Committee 2007/2008 President – Peter Bennett Vice Pres. – Malcolm Rowe Secretary – Steve Orrell Treasurer – John Mountain Membership – Steve Orrell Access - Bill Renshaw Hut co-ord. – Neil Cranston Hut bookings – Derek Cutts Magazine ed. – Peter Flegg Social Sec – Carolyn Horrocks Librarian – Bryn Roberts Guide books – John Earl General: Steve Nagy, Martin Waugh, Richard Pow, Sam Judson & John Dalrymple.

As an affiliate to the BMC, the NMC endorses the following participation statement: REMEMBER: The BMC recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death.

Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.

Copyright The contents of this magazine are copyright and may not be reproduced without permission of the NMC. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the editor or the NMC.

Photos Unless otherwise stated all photos in this issue were taken by the author of the article.

Cover Shot Ben Gilbert on an F6a+ at Cala Moraig, Costa Blanca, Spain, 8 June 2007 Photo by Jon Dixon page 2 of 22

What’s in this issue?

Editor’s news ................................................ 3 Wednesday evening meets............................ 4 Weekend meets ............................................. 4 Kyloe (my first extreme) .............................. 5 Crag Craft— A Guide for New Members ..... 6 Committee Matters. ...................................... 9 Soft(ish) Grit ............................................... 10 DWS Festival.............................................. 13 Role of climbing clubs in C21st ................. 14 Bowden and Kyloe at Easter....................... 16 Jebel Toubkal circuit................................... 17 Hugh Banner 1933 - 2007........................... 19 Bowderstone May 2007 .............................. 20 A day in the hills. ........................................ 21 Discounts for members ............................... 21

Electronic copy of this magazine This magazine is available as a free download from the NMC website.

The download is a PDF file—in order to view it you will need to have Adobe Reader installed on your computer (download the reader for free from www.adobe.com).

All members who have supplied an email address to the Membership Secretary will be notified via an email that the latest issue of the NMC Magazine is available for download. The notification email will provide a direct link to the magazine download page on the NMC website.

Electronic delivery of the Magazine has the following advantages for both you and the club:

Editor’s news Peter Flegg

This is another varied issue— unfortunately the overseas climbing articles by various members that I promised last issue never materialized but interestingly the article by Amanda in the last issue on the club and training has spawned two different responses in this issue.

Once again it is good to see the input from some of our new and younger members—but thanks also goes to John Dalrymple for sending me a selection of pictures suitable for front cover use in future issues.

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You will have a colour copy of the magazine that you can also print from your computer at home.

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You will receive your copy about a week earlier than those who receive the printed black and white copy (that goes out by snail mail).

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Cut costs by saving money on printing and postage.

Contact the Membership Secretary for further details and also to arrange to be notified when the next issue of the magazine is available for download: secretary@thenmc.org.uk

Next issue The next issue of this magazine is due in late September.

Please send me any articles for inclusion before 10 September 07 preferably with a foto to illustrate them.

I am always looking for good fotos of climbers that can be used on the front cover—so why not send me a couple of your shots?

Incorrect telephone number for Hut Bookings in annual handbook Apologies to William Blyth whose telephone number was mistakenly listed in the current NMC handbook for the Hut Booking Secretary Derek Cutts – the correct number for Derek is 0191 268 8625.

You can also contact Derek by email: derek@cuttsd.fsnet.co.uk

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July 2007

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Wednesday evening meets

Weekend meets

Members meet on Wednesday evenings (weather permitting) for outdoors climbing at the locations shown below. No need to call any one—just turn up. You will need to bring all your own equipment.

The following list shows all weekend climbing meets arranged until the end of July.

Check the NMC website for the crag location details (www.thenmc.org.uk) and also for indoor wall alternatives if weather or forecast is not good. Meet afterwards in the pub shown in italics.

You MUST contact the meet leader in advance, as accommodation may be limited or already fully booked.

Note: A deposit may be required to reserve your place on a weekend trip.

06-08 July 07

St Bees/Lakes Kin Choi 0191 441 2263

04 July 07

Kyloe In, Black Swan

11 July 07

Simonside/Ravenheugh, Turks Head

13-15 July 07

Peak District Jon Trafford 07974 345 551

18 July 07

Kyloe Out, Black Swan

27-29 July 07

25 July 07

Crag Lough, Twice Brewed

North Wales, camping, Bryn Roberts,07921 436 955

1 Aug 07

Back Bowden, Black Swan

03-05 Aug 07

08 Aug 07

Wanneys, Highlander

Deep Water Soloing Fest or other climbing, Dorset Ben Gilbert 07766 652 128

15 Aug 07

Coe, Angler’s Arms

06-19 Aug 07

Alps/High Tatras, TBA

22 Aug 07

Bowden Doors, Black Swan

10-12 Aug 07

29 Aug 07

Peel, Twice Brewed

05 Sept 07

Drakestone, Angler’s Arms

Yorkshire Grit, camping at Malham Peter Bennett 01670 515 263

12 Sept 07

East Woodburn/Wolf, Highlander

30 Aug – 2 Sep 07

North Wales, hut/camping John Mountain 07811 240 766

19 Sept 07

Corby’s, Angler’s Arms

07-09 Sep 07

26 Sept 07

Rothley, Dyke Neuk

03 Oct 07

Shaftoe

Eskdale, camping Carolyn Horrocks 07817 833 420

09-16 Sep 07

Kalymnos, TBA

21-23 Sep 07

Bowderstone Hut - BBQ and Working Meet Neil Cranston 07966 284 433

30 Sep 07

Scugdale, Cleveland, North Yorkshire, New members Steve Orrell 07792 518 934

Revised Date for Club Dinner Following postponement of the club dinner due to the small number of bookings, the revised date is 13th October. The Bowderstone hut is reserved for members that weekend. The dinner will be at the Borrowdale Hotel as usual where the 6 course table d’hote menu is £24.45 per person.

Bookings to Peter Bennett.

01670 515 263 bennettvp@talktalk.net

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Kyloe (my first extreme) Andrew Coverdale

A last minute decision, at 10 o’clock on Sunday morning, to take advantage of the fine weather, saw me posting a request on the NMC website forum, for a climbing partner. Piotr Bamberski contacted me almost immediately (his girlfriend was planning a shopping trip, and he was desperately looking for an excuse to avoid the shops), I arranged to pick him up and within an hour of my post we were on our way to Kyloe—the wonders of modern technology!

We got there to find the weather was fantastic as predicted, and although there were already a few people there, it wasn't too busy. It was Piotr’s first time and my second time at Kyloe but our first time climbing together.

I led Flake Crack (4b S) to start and to give Piotr a chance to try out his new shoes.

Piotr then took the lead for the excellent Deception Crack (4b HS), and made a really good job of it. I followed on with Slab and Wall (4c VS), the sun was shining onto the slab all morning, so it was nice and dry, and time for me to break out my new 'lucky' NMC t-shirt!

After a quick cuppa at the bottom of Wilfred Prickles (5a VS) Piotr decided he would lead it, even after the usual stories of regular falls from the route. He laced it with gear and led it really well—I haven't led it yet, and I don't think I want to! Piotr then led the other classic VS of Kyloe, Tacitation (5a VS), again in fine style doing the overhanging start first time!

With already 5 classic routes under our belt we went back round to the front of the crag to do, I expected, my last climb of the day. I led Saint’s Progress (4b S), an interesting line (double ropes needed.)

We then looked at the 11m 5b E1, Pink Socks on Top, which starts at the same point as Saint’s Progress, we joked about climbing it, but then I suddenly decided I would give it a try—probably due to us NMC Quarterly Magazine

having done loads of good routes, that I was feeling strong and the weather was perfect.

I felt I was on a bit of a roll so I quickly tied on and began climbing…

The route starts off fairly easily, the first bit of gear goes in at a break, about 4m up, then comes the unprotected wall with the only way up via laybacks off a really thin vertical edge, next comes a tricky mantle shelf (bit of a knee-wobbler) onto a ledge.

Once you are in a standing position on the ledge, there is another break at head height, and then an imposing looking blank wall, to the top. I laced the break with gear (six bits!) and finally went for the move up the wall.

I got my feet up, balanced on the right hand, reached full stretch with the left hand for a hold. I touched a tiny hold with my fingers, and should of pulled on it, I didn't, and tried to find something bigger... but of course there wasn't anything bigger and in the meantime my left foot was slipping. I knew what was coming but couldn't do anything about it... first my foot popped off followed by the rest of me. The fall wasn't far, my feet started just above the gear and stopped with my head just below the gear.

Of the six bits of pro, only the last bit ripped.

My first lead fall. I got back on the ledge, checked and replaced the popped gear, took a few deep breathes and went for the wall again. This time when I found the tiny hold, I pulled on it, got my feet higher, grabbed the top of the route and made a final mantle to top out—Yesssssss!

It was a classic day, the type we live for, with everything falling into place—the weather and the atmosphere were perfect, oh, and I led my first E1!

NMC hut at Bowderstone Check out the NMC website for hut availability. Make bookings for the hut with Derek Cutts on 0191 268 8625 or derek@cuttsd.fsnet.co.uk July 2007

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Crag Craft—

A Guide for New Members Richard Pow

With the recent influx of new members to the club, many of which haven’t been climbing that long and whose experience is largely limited to indoor walls, the committee thought it would be useful to provide an article for these folk that passes on what we hope is valuable information and advice. I have covered a range of things relating to improving your climbing and staying safe.

The first thing to say is that there is no better way to learn and to get better than by getting out there and doing it. There is a lot in the old adage that “good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgment” but applied to climbing there are downsides to this in that: •

bad judgement can be fatal (or at least mightily inconvenient/embarrassing) and;

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it puts others at risk (or at least spoils their enjoyment!)

Most of the senior (aka old and wily buggers) in the club learnt their craft many years ago either with mates, who were similarly inexperienced and lacking in gear, or were lucky enough to be taken under the wing of someone with at least a tad more experience and with the patience and time to bring on their progeny. The advantage of the first of the above is that progression was limited to the level of bravery of ones peers and was normally steady (albeit not necessarily uneventful.)

Typically they spent weekend after weekend going out with one rope between three and four bits of gear to local outcrops doing Diff after Diff and eventually Severe after Severe etc, etc. This provided a solid grounding but the disadvantage was NMC Quarterly Magazine

that you learnt each other’s bad habits and there was no pot of rich experience readily available to draw on.

The second of the above routes into climbing provided a source of knowledge and experience but brought with it the risk of inheriting your mentors bad habits. (This is one of the reasons why we are encouraging the use of qualified instructors for those looking for the fast-track to good skills and good habits—contact Richard for a list of qualified local instructors). An important feature, one might say ‘safety net’, of these good old days, however, was that there were virtually no climbing walls and most climbers were skint. This meant that we didn’t have youths with the wallhoned strength and shiny gear to climb themselves into extremis but lacking the experience and skill to get themselves out

On routes with parallel sided cracks camming devices are handy Richard Pow on Gilette, Simonside E2 5C Photo – J Dalrymple

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of it. Strong climbers were time-served experienced climbers. ‘All the gear and no idea’ was a rarity in those halcyon days.

Anyway enough of this looking back through rose tinted spectacles I hear you say—let’s have the pointers.

sessions. And I don’t mean problems just using the volumes on the wall! But sessions where you aim to do as many different routes of different types and on different angles as you can, without rushing and climbing the easiest with just as much poise and precision as the hardest. Not only does If you ask top climbers like Dave Birkett this build stamina but it also builds up a or Steve McClure massive repertoire of what they put their In response to the demand from many new moves to draw on and early progress members for instruction in lead climbing, embeds good style through the grades Richard Pow, with Committee approval, has and route reading. organised the following: down to, one of the key things they will So the first golden Introduction To Lead Climbing say is that they just rule is concentrate on climbed loads. Dave quantity not grade.

One day Course at Bowden Doors or Kyloe did route after route At least in your early (depending on weather) after route with his years arrive at a crag Sunday 8 July 10-00 till 16-00 uncle Bill (or anyone with a plan of doing else he could find)— several routes at a This is suitable for those who want to learn Severe’s, VS’s, reasonable grade for more of the practical skills necessary to climb HVS’s, etc—always you rather than single-pitch trad routes. It will particularly suit different crags, those who have recently started or want to always trying to do start leading outside. (Note: We plan to different rock types, something (too) hard. organise another training day that will be a different angles and Do the volume and go little more advanced and based in the Lakes). never doing a route bouldering and the twice. Steve was the grades will come.

The course will be lead by Alistair Mitchell same—from a young That brings me onto with Richard Pow assisting. age out with his Dad, the second golden We need a minimum of three and lots and lots of rule—go bouldering. maximum of five people for the course to different routes of work best—first come first served.

Bouldering is one different types. This of the best ways of brings two important Cost will be £26 to £43 per person gaining specific benefits: depending on numbers. climbing strength and If you are interested please contact improving technique • Firstly, you Richard Pow ASAP: – particularly if you build up a can go along with massive richardpow@talktalk.net someone that can repertoire of 07831 216 024 point you at moves, gear appropriate problems. placement skill Steve Crowe’s new bouldering guide to the and comfort with exposure that stays County due out soon should be all the with you for life and secondly; inspiration you need. Like many climbers • you lay down a solid foundation of that started climbing more than 20 years climbing fitness and strength, ago, I bouldered without a mat (pad) for particularly finger strength, that many years but I wouldn’t recommend this stands you in good stead and helps and neither would those senior members you to avoid injuries when you move who have had hip replacement operations! onto harder stuff.

So get a decent mat (pad). Also, make sure your boot soles are clean before stepping on Andy Earl draws this into advice and to rock as a) your less likely to fall off b) training schedules as he coaches youngsters you will minimise erosion and c) you won’t in that he will get them to do volume NMC Quarterly Magazine

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muddy up crucial holds thereby pissing off those that follow you.

Remember to do slab and wall problems as well as overhanging stuff. Something that I remember having to learn myself is weight transfer. What I mean by this is learning to transfer your weight from left leg to right leg before you lift left leg and vice versa. This may sound absurdly obvious but is the main reason why beginners scuffle and scrape and don’t climb with the precision and grace of better climbers. So be conscious of it next time you climb or boulder. Something else to practice is spending more time looking down to work out foot placements and to carefully place your feet. I remember Steve McClure saying that the best climbers spend most time looking at their feet.

The third golden rule is to get warm and stay warm. You can’t climb well if your body is rigid with cold and your fingers are numb and you are far more likely to get injured if you try. There is masses of evidence in the sports science literature to support the assertion that any sort of physical performance is improved if you are properly warmed up. In virtually every other sport warm up is a routine and accepted part of the activity. It’s not rocket science. First, do something to raise your pulse and make you feel warm (walk up to the crag with a heavy sack, jog on the spot—anything will do). Secondly, do some really easy climbing around on big holds mixed with brief periods of rest and light stretching, concentrating on the muscles you use in climbing. Thirdly, boulder a bit harder (slightly steeper ground or slightly smaller holds) or do a route that you find straightforward but gives you a slight pump. Now you are ready to climb.

Make sure you sustain the benefit of your warm up by sticking on a hat and/or fleece/duvet between routes or boulder problems.

Remember beanies aren’t Always try to get a good runner soon after leaving the ground (or fashion belay stance on a multi-pitch route) accessories they Martina Mederiova on The Shroud VS 4c, Black Crag are performance Photo Tuze enhancers!! Also, Sport climbing is also a really good way pay particular attention to keeping your of getting stronger and improving hands warm. Not only will you enjoy technique—particularly in terms of climbing more if you are mentally and consolidating the types of moves necessary physically warmed up there is also less to cope with steep terrain like flagging and chance of injury and more rapid muscle dropping a knee. It’s also fun and gives you recovery/reduced muscle soreness. a break from the normally psychologically As you have probably picked up, rock more demanding trad. climbing embraces three main disciplines— bouldering, traditional or adventure NMC Quarterly Magazine

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climbing (trad) and sports climbing (bolt protected). Aid climbing has fallen out of fashion as standards of free climbing have improved but you may find the odd aid move as you tick your way through the classics. I sense most new members are keen to improve their trad climbing and this in particular is what you are looking for help with. I accept that you all might not feel ready to lead yet but if you want to get better at leading trad then you need to spend time doing just that, so the fourth golden rule is lead.

It’s is best to start at a grade that is well within your technical ability so you can stand in reasonable comfort while you focus on gear placements. But a useful exercise before you even leave the ground is to practice placing gear in different kinds of pockets and cracks. I remember tasking my son with getting as many pieces of good gear in a crack at the bottom of First Opportunity at Corbys, offering him 10p for each good one. This motivated his imagination and I ended owing him £1-20!

If you are just starting to lead persuade a good climber who you trust to lead the pitch you want to do then pull the ropes and you lead it on his/her gear. Also don’t forget that you can learn a lot seconding routes if you take the time to look carefully at the gear placements and think about their rope work.

Try to get in the habit of placing only good gear and move up in the confidence that it is good. One well-positioned good runner is infinitely better than three crap ones. If you can, get an experienced climber to second the route and give honest feedback on your gear placements. There is a lot more to say on this topic, like getting your rack well organised so you know where everything is and there is the issue of one rope or two and associated benefits and complications. We hope to cover these things and provide pointers on what gear to buy when you are stating out in a subsequent article.

as strong as the rock that it’s in.

Northumberland sandstone is soft or friable in places and it is often safer to press on than to waste energy placing gear in creaking flakes or snappy flutings.

So there you go: •

concentrate on quantity not grade

•

go bouldering

•

get warm and stay warm

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lead.

Remember that the best climber is the one having most fun.

Enjoy your climbing!

Committee Matters.

Peter Bennett (NMC President) Peter Flegg has asked for a report on the activities of your committee because he thinks that you will be interested and should be kept informed. I have my doubts on the former, but here goes...

One issue that has been discussed, on which it would be useful to get members views, is the method of distribution of this magazine. There is one body of opinion on the committee which is strongly in favour of electronic distribution, because it is easier and less expensive than sending paper copies. Members who do not have internet access will of course continue to receive paper copies. The last issue of the magazine included a request for members to opt in to electronic distribution (repeated in this issue) if they are willing and able to do so. Very few members have done that, and we are not sure if this is due to oversight or indolence, lack of the necessary hardware and software, or whether members really do prefer to receive a paper copy. Let us know what you think.

There has been a fair amount of debate on the access problem at Simonside. It is ironic that the effect of the CROW act has, in that instance, diminished access rights.

Suffice to say that your committee is on the case.

Finally a word on placing gear: Remember that ultimately a runner is only NMC Quarterly Magazine

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Soft(ish) Grit Ben Gilbert

Andrew and myself had the idea of heading down to the Peak District and it seemed that others on this particular weekend had had a similar idea—the plan was to meet up with Derek Cutts (aka Cuttsy or The Cuttsmeister) and his possy and share the hut which they had booked.

Having spent my evenings in the previous week watching and rewatching ‘Hard Grit’, I was already excited.

Next morning rearing to go, the crag was literally about 5 minutes away, so no sooner

Photo – A Coverdale

As Andy and I set off at half five, we were both full of anticipation for our first encounter with Grit.

It’s a rock I had always wanted to climb on ever since I started climbing—many nights watching Johnny Dawes doing his stuff on ‘Gods Own Rock’ had done nothing to quell this.

Our attentions soon turned to Saturday’s destination. I was happy enough going anywhere, it was decided that we would be climbing at Froggatt. I then skimmed the pages of my guide for potential routes and ended up with a combination of suggestions and fun sounding routes to aim for.

James on Chequers Buttress HVS 5b

We arrived in Stoney Middleton at around 9ish. Cuttsy had told us Ed was cooking for us so I made a point of being extra nice to him, lest he spit in my tea. I must take this opportunity to say that Ed is the Naked Chief of the DPC1 , making us tasty food both nights on a hairline budget of £6pp. Cheers Ed! I had never stayed in a hut before, but was impressed by this one—spacious and comfy, a roaring fire and the pub within staggering distance. The rest of the DPC crowd came back from the pub as Amanda and Jon arrived from Newcastle and we settled in and got better acquainted over a can or two.

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Derbyshire Pennine Club

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had I fastened my seat belt, than I had to unfasten it again and I was off running (yes running) up the track towards the crag.

We made Sunset Slab our first base. Big Johnny made a solo of Sunset Slab HVS 4b, giving us a demonstration of slab climbing and the frictional properties of the Grit. I was impressed and started to put my gear on. He pointed Andy and I in the direction of Sunset Crack HS 4c, for our first encounter, Andy lead it and I followed him.

A few smears and slopers later, we both stood at the top, totally ecstatic and ready for some more! Andy made quick work of Turret Crack HS 4b, again with me dragging up the rear. During this time the others were busying themselves with the crag’s other offerings all with similar excitement.

At this point James and Jonny had headed further around to a more exposed July 2007

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area of the crag, where James wanted to lead Chequers Buttress HVS ***. However, after a while on the route the wind picked up and unfortunately forced James to back off before he made the committing move onto its arête. Andy and I had followed them round to have a look, and eager for a lead, I was pointed in the direction if a route called Green Gut HS 4a ***.

As I uncoiled our rope the end of the rope was caught by the wind and whipped me in my eye kicking up a load of grit in there. A few moments later my eye had swollen shut and was running profusely.

After about 45 mins, my eye had stopped burning (!) but was still slightly swollen and shut. With my depth perception as bad as my chat-up lines, I decided to hand the lead over to Andy. Cuttsy made a valiant attempt to persuade me to lead it, but I thought it best to second…again! I made it to the top, despite one eye being shut for most of the route, tears pouring and getting cramp in both hands!

The route was awesome, 14m of brilliant hand jams—we both totally enjoyed it.

which provided entertainment for all and not just members of our group either!

My eye was still a bit tender (and remained painfully sensitive to light for the next few days) but I was ready for my first lead on Grit, and infact my first lead of 2007. Jonny and James suggested Tody’s Wall HVS 5a ***, and I decided to give it a go. It was a few grades harder than previous leads, but I was feeling strong(ish). The route starts off up a small slab which meets an overhang, and in the crease is wedged a large block. The block must be mounted in order to gain the lip of the overhang then onto a short but unprotected slab. The last part of the route follows a beautiful crack up to the top. I set off up the slab and got gear in the cracks above and below the block. This wasn’t my own rack, but an assortment of borrowed cams and nuts, as well as a piece of brand ‘new’ crag-swag (which looks old enough for me to suspect Joe Brown may have used it when he made

Photo – J Reay

We then wandered back round to the rest of the team on Sickle Buttress, where we found Jonny had Ben on the Block of Tody’s Wall HVS 5a led Broken Crack HVS the route’s first ascent). Getting onto the 5a. Jonny succeeded in winding Cuttsy up block was interesting to say the least, sitting in all the right places as he seconded him on on certain parts of my anatomy which I the route (‘Now you’ve got a load of slack didn’t know could stretched that far and in for the crux Cuttsy so don’t fall off!’) an assortment of positions—some of which I’m sure could be found in the Karma Sutra.

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Once on the block, the lip can be gained with a high step, followed by a pull-up and rock-over requiring strains that put my clean underpants in serious jeopardy. A few moans and groans later, I found myself treading delicately up the slab and finally up the perfect crack to the top. A whoop of delight ensued as I topped out on my first HVS lead.

While this spectacle had been going down, Jonny Reay had made the decision to lead the committing Motorcade E1 5a. This route followed the half-pipe shaped wall next to Tody’s Wall, with the route’s only gear placement one third of the way up. I hung over the top, with my toes wrapped around a few blades of grass, to capture his ascent with a number of photos. Keeping cool under pressure, Jonny made an inspiring lead of this route, which involved a lot of smearing and faith in friction. In the meantime, Ed was straddled over the block on Tody’s Wall, after taking a fall off the lip; he re-gathered his strength and made it to the top on his second attempt.

Andy led Heather Wall Severe***—this was a really nice route and gave us both a real taste of Grit stone jamming.

At this point the sun was starting to set, but I still wanted to have a crack at Sunset Slab. James, Johnny and I decided to solo it simultaneously with Andy taking photos from the bottom and Cuttsy from the top.

James went first but as he reached the smeary area at the left end of the traverse, he decided not to go any further, but he couldn't back off as I was waiting at the other end of the traverse and Johnny was further down towards the start of the route!

Luckily a guy belaying at the top of Sunset Crack (about 4 or 5m to the right) kindly lowered a top rope to James. The top rope was diagonal across the slab and my head was sitting at the dodgy end of a potential James pendulum, and Johnny at the dodgy end of me—the whole thing was turning into a potential disaster.

James managed to finish though, without falling, and without being pulled off the NMC Quarterly Magazine

route by the enthusiastic belayer. I was a little too reluctant to put all my weight on the smears, so I also made use of the top rope—as it turned out the smears were bomb-proof. Johnny finished by soloing the same route he had climbed at the start of the day. I must apologise to Cuttsy who was tearing his (last remaining) hair out with stress at the top during this botched solo attempt.

Anyway, once down, we headed for the nearest pub, and then back to the hut for homemade Shepherds Pie. Although I had promised myself that I wouldn’t shower over the weekend, I eventually joined the queue and had a quick splash before heading out to the pub again.

Entering the pub was just like a scene from a Wild West movie, all it need was a piano player who stopped suddenly as we entered. Needless to say, me, Jonny, James, Andy and Cuttsy ignored the glaring locals and stayed for a few pints. I headed to bed and sleep as Cuttsy cracked open a bottle of Whiskey with the rest of the crew.

Next morning I woke feeling like I had been street-fighting a gorilla as opposed to climbing. But after a quick bacon sarnie and a mug of tea, I was ready for more Grit stone action. We set off for Gardoms, but Big Jonny fell over on the walk in, damaged his ankle and had to be driven to hospital by Cuttsy. We found the crag to be a bit green for our tastes, so Andy and myself made our farewells and headed to Burbage. After a bit of route spotting, we battled past the hoards and joined a queue in order to get on a route. I wasn’t too impressed with either Burbage North or South, way too crowded and not very impressive.

We eventually managed only one route before calling it a day. Heading back we both agreed that it had been an awesome weekend—a contender for the best weekend I have ever been on! I absolutely loved it, developed a real Friction Addiction, and am already planning for my next trip down there.

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DWS Festival – 11th & 12th August 2007, Pembroke

6. Rub shoulders with the celebrities who frequent this particular festival 7. A chance for your smelly rock shoes to get washed 8. Impress the hardcore traditionalists with your photo’s (‘I think the solo in this picture goes at around E6ish?’)

9. Become a better swimmer! Make sure you don’t get your landings wrong though, bad landings give a whole new meaning to the phrase ‘sting-ring’ 10. And perhaps most importantly…someone has to give me a lift!!

Ben Gilbert

Ten reasons why YOU should come along to the Deep Water Soloing Festival in Pembroke.

1. It’s the most fun you’ll have at the crag - guaranteed 2. When done correctly, it’s one of the safest forms of climbing 3. You get to do lots of fun stupid stuff like really high jumps from the top 4. Get your groove on with some bikini-clad climber chicks at the legendary Saturday night after party 5. Get to see me really drunk and make a fool of myself at the aforementioned after party (that’s a promise)

Get more details from Ben Gilbert 07766 652 128

Ben - aiming for a salt water enema???

NMC Quarterly Magazine

July 2007

Photo – J Dixon

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Role of climbing clubs in C21st —a personal perspective

Trevor Langhorn

Rather like today, I had to pay for my initial introduction (via school)— the differences being that it was on real Borrowdale crags and we were onto leading on Brown Slabs on day 1! Once you had some experience you could join the local club (Carlisle MC); they did not take beginners NMC Quarterly Magazine

The modern beginner often comes to the NMC having climbed exclusively on walls—a preparation that gives many people unreasonable expectations of the standard of climbs they might manage outside and is divorced from the psychological and mental aspects of decision making in a position of risk that typify climbing on real rock. An easy response would be to turn them away until

Photo – J Dalrymple

So we now have a magazine and an enewsletter—great sources of encouragement and information; thanks to Pete and Steve for their hard work. I read Amanda's article in the first issue of the new magazine with interest; it certainly got me thinking about my own first steps, nearly forty years ago, into this silly game we follow and how this might compare/contrast with the route that many follow today. We now inhabit a world of walls and worries about liability and an apparent lack of willingness to accept personal responsibility.

Amanda poses a number of questions that we, as a club, ought to try to address—here is my contribution for what it is worth.

but would take under 16's who had done enough climbing not to need supervision— that is where the real learning took place; climbing with older/more experienced members was always a learning experience even though the club provided no formal instruction.

Bryn Roberts on Rake’ Crack E1 5b at Great Wanney

July 2007

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they had outside experience—but how/where do they get this experience? In her article Amanda poses the question ‘should the club subsidise training?’ In my view the answer is, unequivocally NO—not out of elitism, or not wanting to know or anything like that. I believe that we should all pay our own way; if you want to learn a new hobby you shouldn't expect a subsidy from anyone.

use the gear correctly to either succeed or fail on it.

The club accepts into membership those over 18’s who have mastered the rudiments of climbing through some form of training—we can and should offer coaching to move people on; we have plenty of people (some with formal qualifications e.g.

SPA) able to pass on skills. There is an element of self interest here—a steady stream of new climbing partners! I do not think responsibility/liability is a major issue, whenever you climb with someone you take some responsibility for them regardless of their experience—negligence is negligence.

Such meets would address the basic issues such as equipment choice, using guidebooks, setting anchors, runner placement, rope management and simple leading skills. Inexperienced newcomers would be required to book in and attend these prior to joining in on the main meets.

These sessions could include use of the hut and getting onto user-friendly lakes rock. A few sessions perfecting skills on some easy routes will build more experience and selfconfidence than following innumerable 4b’s at Bowden. This would also allow the inexperienced to team up and learn together.

If we were to try this approach there are some practicalities to consider: •

How do we communicate to new members what we can and cannot do?

There is the very real danger of the club being over-run by inexperienced newcomers who expect the club members to teach them how to climb. Experience within the club membership is also varied and not all members have the experience to safely teach the inexperienced. It is, in my view, unreasonable for newcomers to expect to be able to turn up without prior arrangement, be looked after and taken up routes. We go on meets to go climbing, not to instruct or sit at the top in the cold for an hour bringing up a seemingly never-ending stream of hopefuls. The transition to outside climbing is challenging and demands from the learner the commitment to learn the technical skills needed to make things safe.

Do we need to spell things out more clearly on the membership form/website? The best we can probably do is offer coaching so that a participant can find a suitable route and NMC Quarterly Magazine

•

How do we know what our new members want from the club?

Perhaps a new member should be coopted onto the committee as their voice?

•

We could identify a series of coaching sessions on meets.

Adopting this approach would be something of a change in the club’s role, in my view it is part of the evolution of a climbing club to ensure that it continues to be relevant to new climbers and will help ensure a continuation of the values of ‘traditional climbing’.

Commitment will be required, from new members to learn skills and from existing experienced members who will need to make some time to pass on their skills and values; both coaches and students will gain a lot from the experience. I would be up for this, who else is?

Note: These are personal views and have not been run past a legal expert to check that the club would be acting lawfully/responsibly!

July 2007

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Bowden and Kyloe at Easter Andrew Coverdale

Good Friday, Bowden Doors The weekend kicked off on Friday morning at the Ridley Arms car park we decided to head to Bowden.

The journey there was under clear skies, and the weather looked promising, but just as we arrived at the crag, a really cold wind picked up and filled the sky with cloud— we were not impressed.

I climbed with Mark and we swiftly notched four climbs, I led Black and Tan (4b S) and The Scoop (4b VS), my first time on those routes—I would recommend them both.

Mark led Flake Crack (4b S) and the aptly named, Grovel Groove (MS). Mark led the route, as everyone does the first time, in absolutely perfect grovelling style!

Steve, meanwhile, was leading with Annie on some of the excellent V Diffs and Severes—it was only Annie’s second time climbing outside. JD and family made a swift exit—probably to do with the fact that he was, optimistically, only wearing shorts and t-shirt, and it was b****y cold!

I soloed Exhibition Crack (4c HS), a good but short climb, then joined Ben and Ian, they persuaded me to lead The Runnel (5a HVS). A good route graded VS in older guides, apparently due to the easy escapes either side of the route. Ben led Scorpion (4c VS)—and there really is a sting in the tail!

The day finished when I backed off Tiger’s Wall after a close call—that route is hard and sparsely protected for a VS! Easter Monday, Kyloe Crag Ben and I got to Kyloe under promising clear blue skies, at precisely 8am.

Ben led Slab and Wall (4c VS) not a huge route but it is probably one of the best examples of slab climbing in the County.

Next I headed to Deception Crack (4b HS) which I had seconded previously and found difficult, but leading it was a different experience—I really enjoyed it, and now rate it as one of my favourite climbs. The fact that you aren't following the rope and the gear up the depths of the crack, means you can climb it a lot more freely on the outside edges, only making occasional reaches into the shadows, to place the gear/hexes! An excellent route.

Ben led Tacitation (5a VS) with ease and I followed with the excellent Wasted Time (5b E1). Back at Deception Buttress I led Deception Wall (4c HS). The first couple of moves are delicate, then the second half of the route is fairly straight forward, on good jugs, a worthwhile route.

Then soon it was time for the big climb of the day... Ben’s first ascent of Wilfred Prickles (5a VS). Ben has persistently talked about leading this route, inspired by others, but also with stories of crap gear behind dodgy, hollow flakes and the 'I know someone who came off that route' stories.

His gear was spot on, and he climbed it without problem—he didn't even notice the 'hard bit'. This simply inspired him to climb something harder and he decided on Deceiver (5b HVS)—he has now joined the 5b club!. That is me and JD—the three of us all did our first 5b leads this week!).

Ben then finished on Gargarin’s Groove (5a HVS).

It was an excellent day, with loads of good climbing and the weather stayed fantastic all day, really hot and sunny; although, as we were walking out, past the Saint’s Wall area, it was still blahn-ahooley!

I started with St Ivel (4c VS) at Saint’s Wall area. Then to avoid the wind we went along to the sheltered end of the crag where NMC Quarterly Magazine

July 2007

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Jebel Toubkal circuit Peter Flegg

It all started ominously cold—we arrived from Newcastle in the south of Spain to discover all rooms within our budget range were booked out. So we slept out in the open on the pier at Tarifa and needed all of our clothes on in our sleeping bags to keep warm and that was at sea level!

Some days later after a brief history tour of Fes we arrived, after 13 hours non-stop travelling, at Imlil at 1700m in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco. Everything (apart from camel rides is possible here) so Lewis looked into crampon hire as we could see plenty of snow on the low altitude peaks visible—the price was an extortionate £3.50 per day!

We set off late at about 10.30am and were soon racing up the hill catching and overtaking a large trekking party.

Lewis (aka marthon man) was keen to push the limit and combine 2 days walk into one even though we weren’t acclimatised.

At about 3400m I ground to a halt having eaten all my chewy and power bars.

I called to Lewis who had been sitting on the ridge for an hour already that I was exhausted and was heading back down unable to summon up the energy required to reach the col at 3500m… unless he came and helped me by carrying my pack for the

Tizi Likemt, 3500m, bivvy spot in the morning

We arrived at the start of the what was described as the second day at 13.30 and stopped to refuel—out of the blue appeared a local guy who told us we were in the wrong place if we were heading to the col at Tizi Likemt.

NMC Quarterly Magazine

Lewis was able with his non-flexible boots to kick steps up the ice in the middle of the slope and moved quickly. Whereas my leather boots slipped all way so I stopped to fit my crampons but soon discovered that I had 2 left-foot crampons, one of which was broken and wouldn’t stay on my boot so I was stuck on the scree.

Photo – L Preston

Next morning Lewis talked them down to £3 per day hire charge but he refrained from making them rich and hoped he could make the Toubkal circuit trek that we planned without needing them. I decided to hire a pair—I tried one on in the café and it fitted my boot OK (remember that for later in the story!)

It was now 14.00 and I was ready to call it a day but we were eventually lead by the local guy over a scree slope ridge on to the real route. We paid our fee (£2.50) and continued on our way with the track getting ever steeper and the scree more slippery.

last vertical 100m. He soon came and helped complaining about the rubbish I was carrying in my pack.

We reached the col at dark—I got the stove working to melt some ice for a drink while Lewis attempted to make a flat space among the rubble where we could sleep.

We managed 2 cups of tea and no food

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We didn’t sleep much and didn’t get up until the sun came up over the ridge at 8.30 next morning.

Then we had a long walk downhill to the next deserted village (a summer pasture area) we stopped here for lunch and had several cups of tea and left feeling totally refreshed. Over another easy col at 3150m in the rain and then a painfully long and steep descent to an occupied village.

set off at a faster pace now. We stopped at lake d’Ifni for lunch—bread supplied by Rashid, we supplied the tea.

Then we started the hard slog up to the col of Tizi Ouanouns at 3600m. Rashid soon became our guide and lead us rapidly up the mountain side—Lewis had to donate a pair of thick socks when Rashid stopped with numb feet—he was wearing leaking welly boots! We reached the col at 6.20pm but there was a gale blowing with spindrift stinging our eyes. Rashid bailed out once we looked down the other side—the

One mother came out bringing her daughter when she heard us passing through— the daughter’s face was covered in blood and she had a very nasty open wound on her head.

Not being doctors the Rashid (right) & friend above Lac d’ Ifni, Tizi Ouanouns on right skyline best we descent was over steep ice and drift snow. could do was to say that she should keep We paid him and he headed back the way the wound clean by washing it regularly. we had come.

We finally arrived at our destination village of Amsousert in the dark and were led to The descent was easy enough with my the Gite where we got a nice room and a newly fixed crampons and we again arrived totally filling meal and breakfast for £5 after dark at the large and crowded Toubkal each. refuge at 3200m.

Luckily as it turned out next morning, using sign language, I got a nail and a pair of pliers so that I could fix my broken crampon. We set off on what was again to be another 2 day stages covered in one. A local guy (Rashid) asked if we wanted a guide—we didn’t but I asked how much he wanted to carry my pack I agreed and so we NMC Quarterly Magazine

Photo – L Preston

before we had all of our clothes on and were squeezed tightly in our sleeping bags.

I dreamed of an easy day and so, next morning, left Lewis to head for the summit (4167m) on his own (well actually with about 50 others.) I simply headed down at my own pace stopping to take photos and for a coffee in a village enroute.

July 2007

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Hugh Banner 1933 - 2007 John Earl

I was on a climbing trip to Spain when I heard of Hugh’s death. I was both shocked and saddened, I knew that he had been ill but had not realised quite how close to the end he was.

Born in Crosby near Liverpool, he went to Bristol University where he studied chemistry and started climbing. First ascents of routes including Central Buttress and Great Central Route in the Avon Gorge followed. Hugh is however best known for his exploits in North Wales, as the first non Rock and Ice member to repeat the Brown and Whillans routes making second and third ascents of many of them, before going on to pioneer his own routes, Gecko Groove and Troach on Cloggy.

surprisingly the car wouldn’t start. This meant a wait in a pub in Belford for Hugh’s wife Maureen, and the RAC man which resulted in me getting home in the early hours of Monday morning. My new wife couldn’t understand how I could possibly get home so late from a local crag when it got dark at 6pm. But this tended to be the way with Hugh’s climbing trips—as Carol was soon to discover.

Hugh’s hard routes on Cloggy tended to be unprotected technical wall climbing but in Northumberland it was the unclimbed cracks that attracted him. I was there when he did the first ascent of Crucifix at Kyloe in the Woods which he climbed with consummate ease whereas those of us who followed did not show the Although from a same panache. previous generation to Hugh was a me, because of his superb crack attitude to life in climber and general and climbing in introduced us to particular, I thought of the subtleties of him as a more finger locks to experienced off-widths. contemporary.

Although he went on to Hugh was already a design and member of the NMC produce an before I met him in excellent range Hugh at Eagle Crag, Buttermere in the mid-70’s about 1970. I think it of nuts and was in a pub in camming Newcastle to discuss the 1971 New Guide devices through his company HB he to Northumberland as Ken MacDonald and bemoaned the invention of such protection I wanted our newly developed Corby’s as this in his opinion had resulted in the end Crag included. of crack climbing as an art form as it no longer necessitated the placing and My first climbing experience with Hugh threading of pebbles on lead. was a trip to Bowden on a foggy day in March 1972 where Hugh somehow left his I was also present when he did Trouser car headlights on. When we returned to the Legs which is powerful low down and car at the end of the day’s cragging not delicate and poorly protected higher up. To NMC Quarterly Magazine

July 2007

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us these routes definitely looked and felt like Extremes but Hugh assured us they were barely HVS and hence the Northumberland sandbag grades were born.

Hugh had a great love of speed whether on two or four wheels. During his time in Northumberland he had a three litre Capri which was very fast in a straight line. When Hugh talked to you he liked to look you in the eye—somewhat worrying when he was driving with back seat passengers. Once in the back of his Capri, going well over the speed limit on a flooded A1, Hugh turned to me as the car was aquaplaning down the dual carriageway and commented on the car’s poor handling characteristics particularly in the wet.

Hugh gathered around him a band of keen ambitious young climbers including Bob Hutchinson, George Micheson, Dave Ladkin, Mick Foggin, Dennis Lee, Ian Cranston and myself. He gave us an insight into what hard climbing was all about and what we were capable of achieving.

During his time in the North East, Bob Hutchinson and I climbed regularly with Hugh, in Northumberland, Yorkshire, Derbyshire, the Lakes and Wales and benefited enormously from his advice and encouragement.

When Hugh first arrived in Northumberland his enthusiasm for climbing was reawakened and he was responsible for a host of new routes most of which were included in the NMC’s 1971 guide to Rock Climbing in Northumberland. I cannot emphasise highly enough the influence he had on the development of Northumberland climbing and its climbers. He also made us realise just how good our rock was and how favourably it compared with other outcrop areas in the country.

Thanks Hugh for all those great routes and happy memories.

NMC Quarterly Magazine

Bowderstone May 2007 Peter Bennett

The meet at the Bowderstone on the 18th to 20th May did not attract many punters, probably due to the poor weather forecast which, as is often the case, proved not to be entirely accurate.

Activities included: Friday pm: Peter and Hedley; walk up to Dock Tarn returning via the Scafell.

Saturday: Peter, Martin, Phil and Andrew; walk up to Raven crag with the intention of doing Corvus; At Raven, in view of the intermittent heavy showers of rain and the difficulty of remaining upright on the walk up due to the gusting wind, the young heads took the not unreasonable decision to bugger off back to Newcastle. The ‘wise old’ heads pushed on, even when the rain changed to hail, and the second pitch of Corvus became a waterfall. It dried out later though, and we were in good company with none other than Sir Christopher on the adjacent route.

Hedley went for a walk up Grains Gill and back via Styhead, but through impatience, failed to keep his appointment with Peter and Martin in the Scafell.

Sunday: Beautiful dry sunny day. Peter and Hedley, the only remaining members of the party, went for a walk from the hut via Rosthwaite, up past Rigghead quarries to High Spy and back via Maiden Moor, Hause Gate, Manesty and Grange. Very touristy, but nonetheless enjoyable for that.

Much activity on the crags in the valley, but not sadly by NMC members.

July 2007

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A day in the hills.

Peter Bennett

Last day of April, 2007. Calder in the Cheviots, bright and cloudless , coolish breeze from the south, vibrant visibilty.

Gorse splashes the hillside a brilliant yellow. Cunyan Crag. The calls of curlews, lapwings, grouse, skylarks, carry on the breeze. A peregrine hovers over Threestoneburn wood searching for unwary prey.

Summit of Hedgehope. Lunch, sheltered from the cool breeze by the cairn. To the south and west, a succession of horizons into the blue infinite. To the north and east, a patchwork of yellow, brown and green reaching to the coast.

Bowderstone hut The NMC has its own hut at the Bowderstone in the Lake District.

Members pay just £4 per night to stay, non-members pay £6 per night.

Hut bookings You can make bookings to stay at the hut with the hut booking secretary: Derek Cutts on 0191 268 8625 Use the club website (www.thenmc.org.uk) to check whether the hut is available on the day(s) you want to visit.

West face of Housey Crags. Ten metres of sound Cheviot granite. Idyllic place for beginners on a day like this.

Hut key If you are visiting the hut make sure that at least one member of your party has a copy of the hut key. Derek Cutts (see above) will provide a copy of the hut key to any member on payment of a £10 deposit.

Langlee Crags, Middleton Crags, Threestoneburn House under a translucent green canopy of shimmering birch leaves, the Dod, Calder. Weary limbs.

Directions to the hut Again, use the club website to find out how to get to the hut and for an explanation of parking arrangements.

Geoffery Winthrop Young put it rather well:

Signing in Don’t forget every body must Sign in the guest book on arrival. This is a safety requirement—in the event of an emergency the fire brigade, could determine whether all guests are safe and sound.

‘There is much comfort in high hills, And a great easing of the heart, We look upon them and our nature fills, With loftier images of their life apart, They set our feet on curves of freedom bent, To snap the circles of our discontent.’

Discounts for NMC members On production of your current year NMC membership card you can obtain the following discounts: • Wildtrak offer 15% discount (Note: other clubs only get 10%.!)

• Wildtrak run a ‘discount week’ every November, NMC members get a 20% discount.

• Wildtrak also offer a one-off 20% discount to new NMC members on purchases over £100, on production of a special voucher obtainable from the NMC Membership Secretary.

NMC Quarterly Magazine

• LD Mountain Centre offer 10% discount.

• Needlesports (Keswick) offer 10% discount.

• Nevisport offer 10% discount.

• Northumbria Mountain Sports (Morpeth) offer 10% discount.

• Outdoor World Ltd (Whitely Bay) offer 12.5% discount.

• Reynolds Outdoor Centre (Sunderland) offer 10% discount.

• Snow and Rock offer 10% discount to BMC members (Note: NMC members qualify for this via the BMC Club Membership.)

July 2007

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NMC Guidebooks NMC members pay a discounted price for any guidebook published by the NMC.

Indoor climbing: •

Sunderland wall offers a £1 discount to NMC members off the standard entry price.

NMC Website The NMC has a very informative website www.thenmc.org.uk The website includes various discussion forums, a photoarchive for members climbing photos, online guides for most Northumberland crags and you can also buy from a large range of climbing books available.

Currently available are the following guides: • Northumberland Climbing Guide Definitive Guide to climbing in Northumberland. £12.50 to members (RRP £18.95) • Northumberland Bouldering Guide £8.00 to members (RRP £11.95) For the above 2 guides add £1.50 P&P if required.

Contact John Earl on 0191 236 5922 • No Nobler County A history of the NMC and climbing in Northumberland.

Now ONLY £2.00 while stocks Last!!!

Hurry

Contact Martin Cooper on 0191 252 5707 • Climbing In North East England A guide to the best climbing in South Tyneside, County Durham, East Pennines and North York Moors £17.95 (incl. P&P) Contact Steve Crowe on 0191 584 3361

Tee shirts and Fleeces Various styles of Tee shirt with printed NMC designs and fleece tops with embroidered logo are available.

Order direct on the website (www.thenmc.org.uk) or contact Steve Orrell on 07792 518 934.

Have you got a good climbing/mountain-scenery photo to use in this space in future issues? Please send any submissions to me at magazine@thenmc.org.uk

Lewis Preston on the summit of Jebel Toubkal, 4167m, Atlas Mountains, Morocco

NMC Quarterly Magazine

July 2007

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