County climber spring 2014

NMC County Climber

Spring 2014

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About the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club (NMC) The NMC is a meeting point for climbers, fell walkers and mountaineers of all abilities.

Our activities centre on rock-climbing in the summer and snow and ice climbing in the winter, and hill walking in both. Meets are

held regularly throughout the year.

The NMC is not, however, a commercial organization and does NOT provide instructional courses.

NMC Meets The NMC Members’ Handbook (available to all members) and the NMC website list the dates and locations of all meets.

This magazine lists the meets arranged for the next few months.

Non-members: Are always welcome to attend meets.

Note: Winter indoor (wall) meets require a minimum of prospective membership (see below) due to venue requirements for third party insurance.

Membership Details Members are Prospective until they fulfill the conditions for Full Membership (see membership form.) Full membership is valid for one year from the end of February. Prospective membership expires at the end of March each year.

Membership gets you: NMC County Climber

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Copy of the quarterly magazine BMC Public Liability Insurance for climbing incidents Discounted NMC guide books Discounted entry at certain indoor climbing walls Access to the extensive NMC library Access to huts of affiliated clubs

Join the NMC Download a Membership form from: www.thenmc.org.uk Send the signed and completed membership form with a cheque made out to the NMC for the membership fee (see below) to the Membership Secretary at the address shown on the membership form.

Membership Fees •Full £23 •Under 18 or in full-time education £15.00

Magazine articles This is YOUR magazine so please keep it running by writing about your own climbing experiences. Even beginners have something to write about.

Send contributions to: magazine@thenmc.org.uk or the Editor at: john.spencer@ncl.ac.uk

Black & White Photos?

If you received this magazine as a paper copy, then you are missing part of the picture as the download version of the magazine is in colour.

To arrange for email notification that the latest issue of the magazine is ready for you to download, contact the membership secretary at: secretary@thenmc.org.uk

Spring 2014

Photos Unless otherwise stated all photos are taken by the author of the article.

Committee 2014/2015 President – Ian Birtwistle Vice Pres. – John Dalrymple Secretary – Andrew Shanks Treasurer – Eva Diran Membership – Adrian Wilson Magazine Editor – John Spencer Social – Ed Scibberas Librarian – Ed Scibberas Web – Ian Birtwistle Genera -: David Angel, Alastair Boardman, Gareth Crapper, Pete Flegg, Ian Ross.

As an affiliate to the BMC, the NMC endorses the following participation statement: The BMC recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death.

Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.

Copyright The contents of this magazine are copyright and may not be reproduced without permission of the NMC. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor or the NMC.

Cover Shot Nigel Hooker leading pitch 1 of Parto Gemellare (WI3+), Epinel, Val d’Aosta (John Spencer) page 2 of 24

What’s in this issue?

Editorial Winter Skills Weekend (Jenny Wright) The Dog’s Bollocks (John Spencer) From Babu to the Ben via Burnside (Ed Scibberas) One Day Like This A Year Would See Me Right (Paul Quin) Domestic Winter (Jim Rigg) Kiwi Steve Comes To Town (Gail Young) Peak Rock – a Book Review (Dave Hume) Mouth-watering Menu Snow on the Edge (Martin Cooper) Club Business

p4 p5 p6 p9 p15 p16 p17 p19 p19 p21 p21

Wednesday Evening Meets The club meets outdoors every Wednesday night, weather permitting, between April and the end of September. Just turn up (bring your own equipment) and join in! The full list of venues (and the pub in which the thirsty craggers meet afterwards) is published in the Handbook. Note, however, if the weather is bad, it’s important to check the NMC website (or Facebook or Twitter if you’re into those sorts of things) for details about alternative venues.

Weekend Meets        

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(including accommodation where relevant, and meet leader) 19th-20th April (Easter weekend), Northumberland, Ian Birtwistle (07828123143) 2nd-4th May (Bank Holiday weekend), North Wales, Shrewsbury MC Hut, Deiniolen, Alastair Boardman (07768268850) 11th May, North Yorks Moors, joint meet with Cleveland Mountaineering Club, leader tbc 16th-18th May, Great Langdale, new members Spring meet, joint meet with Wanneys Mountaineering Club, Adrian Wilson (07970823483) 22nd June, Yorkshire day meet, Alastair Boardman (07768268850) 25th–27th July, Galloway, Solway View Campsite, John Dalrymple (07591242339 ) 9th August, Peak District day meet, Adrian/Gareth (07970823483) 23rd-25th August, Pembroke, Glebe Farm, Bosherston, Ian Birtwistle (07828123143) 13th–14th September, North Wales, Clogwyn Mountaineering Club Hut, leader to be confirmed

Other Dates for Your Diary     

8th June, Crag clean-up and joint meet with Wanneys, venue to be decided (probably not Crag Lough), John Spencer (07813129065) 11th-13th July, BMC Festival of Walking and Climbing, Wooler (Friday night pub quiz, Saturday climbing Bowden Doors, Saturday night ceilidh, Sunday climbing Kyloe Out) 2nd August, Club Annual Dinner, Battlesteads Pub, Wark, accommodation Demesne Farm Campsite and Bunkhouse 6th-7th September, BMC Crag Lough Clean-up, camping 7th December, President’s Walk, venue to be decided, Ian Birtwistle (07828123143)

Winter Weekend Meets Below are listed the dates of next season’s official Club meets. Meet leaders have yet to be identified.     

23rd–25th January, Cairngorms, Mill Cottage, Feshiebridge 6th-8th February, Cairngorms/Meagaidh, Raeburn Cottage, Laggan 20th–23rd February, Torridon and NW, Ling Hut, Glen Torridon 6th–8th March, Glencoe, Alex McIntyre Hut, North Ballachulish 20th–23rd March, CIC Hut, Ben Nevis

NMC County Climber

Spring 2014

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Editorial John Spencer

What a strange winter it’s been. OK, people whose work takes them into the mountains or those folk climbing the Grade VIIs and IXs and who know the right place to be (and usually live on the doorstep) seem to have enjoyed a reasonable season, judging from postings on UKC Winter Forums and/or Scottishwinter.com. But for the rest of us, the punters, it’s been rather frustrating.

I made 5 forays north after the New Year (trips north being more or less pointless before then) for which I have to show: two routes (both fun, but neither in particularly good nick); three new Munros (93 to go!); and a visit to Ice Factor. Oh and I fell in a river! But the craic was good, the scenery spectacular, and being in the midst of some of those conditions was exhilarating (sort of), so I guess I shouldn’t complain. Most other folk I know have had similar experiences. Two NMC winter meets were cancelled and even Big Al Horsfield, he of last season’s ‘Forty at 40’ apparently managed only one outing.

There’s been much talk about these kinds of conditions – stormy, mild, unpredictable - being the pattern for the future. I was amused, therefore, when browsing through some old climbing magazines (I’m a hoarder) to come across the following extract from the Scotland Area Report by Andy Nisbet in the May 1989 edition of Climber and Hill Walker, penned in late March: ‘Winter has finally NMC County Climber

made an erratic appearance this month, although those prone to blinking may have missed it. The weather has been stormy with dramatic thaws and freezes. The thaws, usually accompanied by heavy rain, have been too deep for sustained conditions but the sudden freezes have brought ice routes which rely on drainage water, into excellent condition very quickly, usually to disappear again just as quickly….So those whose keenness has survived and with a good eye for conditions have done some excellent new routes.’

Twenty five years on, it seems plus Ça change, eh?

Anyway, although most people’s thoughts will have now turned to rock, winter adventuring remains the theme of most of the articles in this Spring issue.

Jenny Wright, Enthusiasm Personified, though not a Club member, joined us on the Feshiebridge meet in January and writes about her very positive experience of the Winter Skills course and ‘what happened next’.

By the end of a decent winter season, you will likely have experienced all or most of the following: wondering whether you’re still on route or indeed on a route at all; encounters with unconsolidated snow, cruddy ice, and crap gear; an unexpected thaw or freeze (or both) mid-route; a near-fall, maybe even an actual one; getting your ropes in a fankle; and topping-out in the dark.

On page 6 I tell the story of an outing (with a canine theme) in which all of these were experienced in one long and epic day.

Spring 2014

Ed Scibberas seems to have had a more productive winter than most, culminating in an ascent of Tower Ridge in Alpine conditions. He also lays claim to having been, for a glorious few minutes, the highest Malteser in the world!

There are a couple of short anecdotes about aspects of ‘the winter experience’, from Paul Quin and Jim Rigg respectively, and a wintry poem from Martin Cooper.

Meanwhile, the only outside speaker we managed to organize over the winter was New Zealander Steve Bate who, in a talk at Burnside in January, described with great candour (emotions and all) his solo ascent of Zodiac on El Capitan - he’s registered blind, by the way. Gail Young, who happens to be the Editor’s dear wife, and a non-climber yet longsuffering climber’s partner, who met Steve and came along to hear his talk, offers her perspective on his feat and asks some questions about the mindset of a person that enables them to overcome fear and do something amazing.

Finally Dave Hume reviews the recently published magnum opus ‘Peak Rock’ which attempts, apparently successfully, to bring to life 130 years of history ’in one of the UK’s main forcing grounds for standards’.

Happy reading! 

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Winter Skills Weekend Jenny Wright

So here goes, my first attempt at translating my experience onto paper. Being in the early stages of my winter climbing career I was, and still am, keen to gain as much experience as I can, so when I was told that the NMC were organising a Winter Skills weekend course to be led by Tim Hakim (MIC), I thought this would be the perfect compliment.

Especially when considering the length of walk-ins to the climbs and generally being exposed to such a changeable environment.

After packing all my kit for the weekend, and feeling a little apprehensive about being warm enough, tending to suffer from cold hands, I was on my merry way to join Adrian and Tim to continue our journey to Feshiebridge.

On first meeting Tim I knew immediately the weekend was going to be valuable, he had so much experience and knowledge to offer. When we arrived at the bunkhouse, which had a reassuring level of snow outside, the fire was soon roaring. Everyone was in good spirits and it was nice meeting people of different ages and with various levels of experience. There was NMC County Climber

little time to stop though; Tim was very vigilant making sure everyone had everything they needed for the following day.

So alarms were set for 6am, luckily I don’t mind an early start. The morning arrived soon enough. After a good breakfast the group left and made tracks up to Aviemore Ski Centre. The darkness began to turn to ligh.t

We had a lot to cover over the next couple of days but in fact we sailed through the syllabus pretty quickly, clearly a very capable group and of course we benefitted from a Tim. We started off simply focussing on treading snowy and more hard-packed snowy terrain and on steep ground, kicking in steps, remaining balanced. The moment many had been waiting for – ice axe arrests came after lunch. They were a lot of fun to practice and we saw some dramatic improvisations. This is not to ignore the seriousness of learning what could be a lifesaving technique. We soon had the ropes out and were taught various belay methods; Spring 2014

each time they were tried and tested to see how bomber they were. Most were pretty solid.

A fair walk-out rounded off the day nicely, the weather was reasonably good, with little wind and patches of clear skies. Tim often offered his knowledge through the day, with a host of helpful tips around ice axe and crampon use, avalanche awareness, various risk indicators and more. I can certainly say that my skill base grew and I subsequently felt that bit more confident. After a well earned beer and some dinner, we had a talk from Tim on avalanches, which was both interesting and unnerving. We looked at how snow-ice can form, the influence of the wind etc, and what this would mean in terms of risk. It brought home the seriousness of mountaineering and the devastating impact on life if one is unfortunate enough to be caught in an avalanche.

For day two, the plan was to put our newly acquired or refreshed skills into practice with a winter climb, exciting times! I was keen to lead for the first time and this was the time to do it. The group headed in the direction of Coire an t-Sneachda. I can recall the wind picking up and visibility being mildly challenged. A bit more Scottish than the previous day! The goggles were soon page 5 of 24

on, along with the rest of the kit, which was made much more of a faff by wearing gloves; this was difficult!

Little did I know just how much pain I was going to be in a few hours later.

We split into groups of three, with Tim supervising one group and Adrian Wilson the other. Adrian was a super coach during my first lead and tolerant of my swearing, as were David and Robin, while I went through the dreaded hot aches - Horrible!

David’s mitts were the perfect cure. I wasn’t the only one suffering, though. I noticed a few others doing squats and windmills at the belay to stay warm. At the end of the climb it felt like a real accomplishment!

Everyone had done so well, for most of the group this was a first. It’s amazing how the memory of the painful hot aches is overridden by the memory of the rest of the climbing experience. This was of course largely influenced by the personalities of the people with whom I was lucky NMC County Climber

enough to share the experience. Since that day I have kept going back to Scotland for more winter

climbing whenévér possible, most recently doing Spectre V,6, and Scabbard Chimney V,6 on Stob Coire nan Lochan. Then in February I had an amazing time ice climbing in Rjukan, Norway, where the weather was just idyllic, but it has to be said that it is no replacement for the true adventure the Scottish elements offer!  Tim Hakim holds a Mountaineering Instructor Certificate and can be contacted at beyond.the.horizon@lineone.n et or 07974413562.

The Dog’s Bollocks John Spencer

“I’m off!” I exclaimed, more out of surprise than anything else since, well, I wasn’t expecting to fall. One of my axe placements in the less-than-ideal turf had ripped as I was stepping up a short Spring 2014

corner, crampons scrabbling on not very much. In slowmotion I barn-doored, eyeballed the ice screw a couple of metres below, let go of the still-placed axe, and launched into space. But then, a second later: “No I’m not” as I realised I hadn’t gone very far and was now dangling from the lanyard attached to the axe still in situ.

I was leading the 2nd pitch of a route called K9 on Lurcher’s Crag in the Northern Cairngorms. It was the weekend of the Feshiebridge Meet (January 10th to 12th), and our first real opportunity to get out onto something steep and white, not having had a dog’s chance (see what I did there?) so far on account of the wild and stormy start to the season. MWIS was reasonably optimistic: no precipitation forecast, a decent chance of cloud-free tops, maybe even some sun, and, most relevant to today’s adventure, freezing levels down to 650 metres. We were three: myself, and Messrs Vaughan and Sillem Senior.

On account of it being the first weekend showing promise, we reasoned that the hordes would be out to play and that Coire an’t’Sneachda would be hotching. None of us had climbed at Lurcher’s but the word on the street, bearing in mind its base is around 750m, was that when it was ‘in’ there was good sport to be had, and that it would also likely be quiet. It seemed like a good prospect.

A pleasant walk in the breaking dawn along the track from the Sugarbowl car park took us on a contouring line round the base of the page 6 of 24

Northern Corries from where, across the valley, we could see a steady stream of cars heading up to the main car park, seemingly vindicating our choice of venue.

We passed through the Chalamain Gap, scene of one of last season’s avalanche tragedies, and turned into the Lairig Ghru. Here the ambience changed, with a stiff breeze blowing and more of a ‘big country’ and serious feel to things.

freezing level was well above 750m. However the belay was good and Mr Sillem and The first ascent was by I followed. My lead next. The Allan and Blair Fyffe in route description said ‘After a pitch trend left across mixed ground.’

Hmm. This would avoid what looked to be the main challenge of the route, a splurge of ice breaching the left end of the roof. The ‘mixed ground’ was not appealing anyway, and neither was the thinlooking continuation groove above the belay, which would have given direct access Our to the ice original this was the target was first route of ‘Window the season Gully’, a after all. So I single star headed right Mr Vaughan leading the first pitch of K9 (roof breached IV/4, the up a snow by ice pillar directly above) highlight of ramp, then which is climbing up behind March 1996, and although back left towards the ice, an ice curtain, cutting a hole there we could make out a protected now by a warthog in it – the eponymous line we struggled to fit the hammered somewhat window – and climbing route description to what we optimistically into a clod of through back onto the route. saw above us. It mentioned a turf. Twenty feet higher a It sounded fun, but when we ‘lower icefall’ leading up to a solid-feeling screw in an finally located the lines on big roof; the latter was icicle provided psychological the craggy hillside it was obvious, not so the icefall. protection to tackle the short clear the screen was not fully Ah, well. turf-choked rock corner. formed. However K9, to its left, looked to be present with Mr Vaughan led off up a So there I was, gently some interesting-looking ice corner comprising a mixed swinging on my lanyards. I high up. Also graded IV,4 it pitch of snow-covered rock, chuckled, part nervous seemed worth a punt, so we generally cruddy ice, and notlaughter, part genuine thrashed our way up a steep very-frozen turf, with little amusement at this unexpected gear to boot. It was clear the turn of events.....but only for NMC County Climber

snow slope to the start of the route.

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a couple of seconds as I was jolted back from slow-motion into real-time. I wasn’t that confident, either in the short stretch (literally) of elasticated fabric or the stillin-situ axe from which I dangled. With “Take it steady, John” booming up from the belay, I swung back onto the route, found the nice hook in a slanting crack I should have found first time round, took a deep breath and thrutched, not very gracefully, hands, knees and everything, up the corner. With a couple of satisfying thwacks, I found good placements with which to pull onto the ice. Phew! It seemed sensible to belay at this point. I kicked a ledge and placed two bomb-proof screws and a thread round an icicle.

Safe now, I brought up the boys, just a little pleased to hear a bit of huffing and puffing when they reached the tricky corner, even the odd exhortation to “Watch the rope”.

Meanwhile, the sun had at last emerged, the sky was blue, and the views down the Lairig Ghru and across to Braeriach were magnificent – a great stance. A party of two had arrived at the base of the route and were making their way up the first pitch. And of course by now our ropes were the inevitable dog’s breakfast.

Mr Vaughan led off up a steep wall of ice leading into a cave/recess beneath the NMC County Climber

roof, from the back of which sprouted an assortment of tat.

Protected by this and a screw, he stepped down and out of the cave and onto an ice bulge. A chandelier of icicles loomed overhead, the ice below it all weird and bubbly from the constant drip and freeze of meltwater. Heading left and upwards, the angle

quite pokey – a new route, we wondered? The freezing level had dropped over the course of the afternoon and by now everything, the belay, the rack and John’s sac hanging from it, the rope and indeed Mr Vaughan himself, were by now covered in a thin coating of clear ice.

We were getting tired, it was cold and we’d had little sustenance since breakfast at 6.30, other than a handful of raisins and nuts and a swig of water, so the chocolate biscuits produced from the depths of Mr S’s rucksack provided a most welcome boost to both blood sugar and morale. I led off up a series of shallow icy grooves, with the occasional awkward step, leading up to a heathery and bouldery slope. The top pitch, described as ‘the upper icefall running down a The ice pillar leading through the roof on corner’ was visible K9, mid-February some 50 metres or (photo by Simon Richardson, reproduced with so up and to our his permission) left, quite a way off eventually eased, although it the natural line. We still looked pretty ‘out there’. scrambled up to its base.

Our intrepid leader made Although climbing it seemed light work of it, obviously in rather contrived, light was control although not so much beginning to fade and cloud that the spoilsport would was descending, it looked pause for a photo. The pair enticing – it had to be done. below us had meanwhile grown tired of waiting – sorry I was pushed forward to guys, climbing as a the sharp end. The threesome is always slow if temperature drop had taken you’re not simul-climbing, its toll, so to speak, and the and we weren’t – and they ice was now rock-hard and were climbing a groove brittle, thus placements system to our right; it looked required a bit more effort (or Spring 2014

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was it just that I was knackered?!), and the ice was more easily shattered, thus the boys below were showered with pieces of ice of various sizes. All in all, a bit tougher than was at first apparent, and, as with the roof pitch, the grade felt more like 5 than 4.

The top. By now darkness had fallen, and cloud was enveloping the summits – we were going to have to navigate our way off.

Customary shaking of hands, grunts of appreciation, sorting of gear and slurping refreshing cup of lukewarm tea followed. Mr Sillem led the party off the hill, compass in hand, our headtorch beams drilling into the darkness. The descent route was very straightforward, a trudge to the ridge then a gentle stroll on more or less the same bearing, to avoid the Chalamain Gap, but on excellent crunchy névé.

We reached the almostempty car park ten hours or so after setting off. A full-on day for sure, with a bit of everything thrown in for good measure. We dropped

by Tesco in Aviemore where Mr S purchased an armful of craft beers. When we got back to the hut, I slumped, dog tired, in front of the fire, popped open the first bottle, and slowly slipped into that wonderful glazed post-fullon-winter’s-day-out state as the rest of the hut bustled, excitedly recounting their adventures.

Postscript None of us had heard of K9 before our visit to Lurcher’s. When we got home, browsing Simon Richardson’s excellent Scottishwinter.com blog, it NMC County Climber

transpired that just a week before our ascent, none other than Andy Nisbet partnered

by Susan Jensen, had been on the route, forging a direct link between the top of the first pitch and the ice pillar through the roof, the line I avoided (it looked a darned sight fatter in their photo).

However, the blog entry (titled ‘A dog’s life’!) also mentioned that on the FA in ‘96 conditions were not very icy, in particular the pillar over the roof was not ‘in, hence the traverse over mixed ground, and the attraction of the top icefall.

K9 also popped up on the blog a few weeks later (one might say that every dog has its day – I’m sorry, I’ll get my coat!), the issue this time being the fact that people were climbing the line thinking it was Window Gully, indeed confusion seemed to reign about the location and descriptions of several of the routes at Lurchers. The next guidebook writer will have some work to do! Whatever, all seemed to agree it was a cracking route. The dog’s bollocks, in fact. 

From Babu to the Ben via Burnside.

Or the story of an unlikely winter climber and an unlikely winter season Ed Scibberas

Driving back from Fort William gives time for a lot of reflections. Mountains mirrored on Loch Lomond on a still night, the glint of a silver Subaru across a Spring 2014

gleaming car showroom as well as the blinding reflected glare of driving sleet in full beam headlights. But returning from the NMC meet in the CIC Hut on Ben Nevis (March 21st-23rs), my thoughts were centred on looking back at the past couple of months that have been this year’s winter climbing season. My unlikely conclusion was that this wee lad from the sunny Mediterranean, who started his apprenticeship bolt clipping at the Maltese klettergarten known as Wied Babu, notched up the greatest number of metres of climbing from all the winter NMC meets in 2014, a heady height of 1275m!

Starting off with that bombshell therefore, the story kicks off at Mill Cottage, Feshiebridge, over the weekend of 11-12 January. A winter skills course was organised for this meet, bringing the hut to full capacity with its six participants, including three climbers from the Wanneys Climbing Club. The Johns, together with Robin Sillem had a cunning plan that Lurcher’s Crag would be in the best condition given the (balmy?) weather, while Simon and James, as well as Tim C and myself went for the more conventional Coire an t'Sneachda. With high morale, Tim and I headed in for our first climbs for the year. I was keen to get some scratches on my ice tools, which looked embarrassingly shiny, having only recently graduated to the newest haute couture that is leashless climbing.

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‘Tremendous Tim’ made a beeline for Aladdin’s Buttress and after a quick assessment of what was free (and a quick “Get orf my land!” or two to climbers eyeing the same route) we trudged up to the base of

Ed on the 2

slightly lower than you were before.”

But what of the intrepid Lurchers? They made it back to hut at around 8pm, with an epic story to tell.

The route of choice, K9 (see

Tim needed to get his snowboarding time in too, John V and Robin elected on a rest day, while Simon and James decided that the forecast high winds would make for an uncomfortable day. That meant the Prof and I were paired up for the Sunday, with Sneachda again being the target. The Winter Skillers were to practice what they’d learnt on some easy ground in the corrie on what was forecast to be a very windy day. This narrowed our choice towards Aladdin’s Buttress once again – Doctor’s Choice was free, so onwards marched Doc John for another 105m of the Cairngorms’ finest, bringing Chapter I to a successful close.

nd

pitch of Doctor’s Choice (John Spencer)

Patey’s Route. One hundred and twenty metres of perfect névé later, we topped out with awesome grins all round. Quick bite of lunch, and The Lamp soon fell to Catterall’s assault, adding another 100m to our tally.

Two good routes, and great conditions made for a stonking day. Back at the hut, the other parties slowly trickled in. James and Simon had bagged Spiral Gully and were looking well chuffed with themselves, while the Winter Skills crowd had been practicing their ice axe NMC County Climber

arrests with Tim Hakim and Adrian Wilson.

John’s article), had bitten back, having turned out to be a rabid, out-of-condition mongrel. Melting ice, cruddy ice, pokey and contrived, were all used yo sum up the route. John Spencer meanwhile was singing Grivel’s praises for their spring leash which had just proved its worth when a turf placement had ripped, the good doctor having been caught in the fall by the leash. This heroic moment was summed up by Robin as, “I heard a commotion, I looked up, and you were Spring 2014

Chapter 2 was withdrawn by the printer from this year’s almanac. The Raeburn Cottage was to host the NMC for the Laggan meet at the beginning of February. All eyes were glued on the weekend weather forecast. In the end, even Tim Catterall’s enthusiasm was restrained when notified that the A82 was shut. The NMC stayed in Newcastle.

The next chapter made it to the final print, albeit a brief affair. The Lagangarbh hut in Glencoe was the venue. This time the forecast did not put a stop to our efforts, and Saturday morning saw myself, Adrian W and Tim C geared up and aiming for Stob Coire nan Lochan for the most sheltered climb we could think of, given the wind and avalanche forecast.

By the time we had driven from the hut to the layby, page 10 of 24

however, the rain had turned to torrential mode. Much oohing and aahing in the car, and the absence of anybody else, plus the fact that Adrian got soaked just fetching his boots from the back of the car meant that a visit to the Ice Factor in Kinlochleven was in order. The issue was that our unbounded enthusiasm had seen us in the layby for 7.15, the Ice Factor not opening till 9. I have since learnt that on a rainy morning there is bother all to be done in Kinlochleven before 9!

Alison decided to stick it out and explore The Lost Valley, while Eva, Richard, Victor and Ali went skiing. Total route length – 0m!

The grand finale was the Ben Nevis meet only two weeks later, and with a less-

A morning was spent under cover, with the rest of the gang gradually trickling in, having had their lie-ins and second breakfasts. In order to earn our day, we decided that a walk back to the hut via the West Highland Way from Kinlochleven was in order, seeing us arrive just in time to watch the final John on the third pitch of Doctor's Choice minutes of the rugby at the Clachaig.

Sunday was more hopeful, than-ideal forecast once with whispers of “Aonach again, hopes were not too Eagach” wistfully heard. high. The CIC hut was However the day dawned booked for the weekend so grey and wet, and over the Adrian, Tim Hakim and two hours spent looking out myself decided to make an of the window, the whole extended sojourn and head spectrum of shades of grey north on Thursday night, was seen, before we decided staying in Fort Bill before that Newcastle was a better heading up to the hut on choice. Lewis, Sue and Friday morning. After a quick NMC County Climber

Spring 2014

lunch we headed out towards Douglas Boulder, and started off on Fawlty Towers (III), with Mr Wilson kindly taking the lead on pitch 1. This proved to be rather thin, both in terms of any consolidated white stuff as well as available gear. Pitch 2 was handed to yours truly, and manifested itself as a 60m swim. Gear was plentiful on this one though. Finally Tim led the final stretch onto Tower Ridge, by which time it was getting slightly dusky and snowier.

We abbed off into the Douglas Gap and descended back to the hut, to find the Johns making the hut homely.

Other hutters trickled in through the evening, Robin turning up around 8, and Lewis and Tim Catterall arriving past midnight amid incessant snow. This proved to undermine everyone’s climbing plans for the next day.

Most parties headed towards Northeast Buttress to find something doable in that area, with Adrian and myself eyeing Slingsby’s Chimney.

The walk up involved wading through the deep overnight snow, then standing saide for the parties retreating from the crags!

There was a general feel that climbers were getting to the crag, attempting a route, then bailing off as it was simply proving to be an exercise in the breaststroke. This indeed proved to be the case as we got closer. At this point, page 11 of 24

futility was the order of the day as we waited for the Johns who were in a similar predicament. CIC Hut Direct

momentarily cleared giving uninterrupted views all the way down to the glen.

Back in the hut, plans

were first off from the Douglas Gap. What that also implied was that we were regaled at the top with an

Tim Hakim, first on the ridge

was agreed upon as the most appropriate route, via Retreat Central Buttress, which was getting quite busy with all the other climbers taking their kit out for a walk.

The Tims turned up about an hour later, having attempted Platform Rib but then bailing before even reaching the first belay. Intel had suggested that Robin had done the same, but Lewis was giving it another go.

Eventually, however, they were back at the hut by 12.30 too! Later on in the afternoon I got a bout of cabin fever, so me and Adrian went on a bit of exploration given that this was both our first outing to Ben Nevis, up towards Coire Leis, where the weather NMC County Climber

were then made for the next day – Tim, myself and Lewis had set our sights on Tower Ridge, while the rest were simply going to play it by ear depending on the weather.

Tower Ridge was something I’d been hoping we’d be able to do this weekend, so was mightily excited. Plus this was my first foray at climbing on the Ben. Ever.

Excited!

unbroken crest of pristine snow! It seemed a shame to break through it, but onwards we went, Tim leading, followed by Lewis and myself moving together. The wind had meanwhile died down, and the sky was clearing – signs of a good day? With a quick look at everyone else, I could see that this was really going to happen.

The morning, however, did not dawn too promising.

In fact we met a group who had just bailed off Tower Ridge before we’d even left the hut! Névértheless, we decided to plod on and have a look for ourselves. Being first up meant we were breaking trail, but that also meant we

Because of the overnight snow and the conditions underfoot, Tim elected to pitch most sections all the way up to the Little Tower, with the groups following us doing same. At the Little Tower, we were outflanked

by Robin Clothier (hut custodian) who was soloing,

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accompanying a pair of climbers. We met them again at the start of the Eastern Traverse which was gained via a magnificent crest. Lewis had been appointed official trip photographer, so we had frequent calls of “Stop!…this

Somewhat apprehensive, I undid a couple of coils between me and Lewis, before faffing about retying them. Mindful of the sheer size of the drop, “Lewis, is this the right knot??” With the rope going taut it was

above you, but still, following was nice!) The arête leading to the gap then literally stopped me in my tracks. Seriously??? That narrow??? Is it too late to swap with Lewis?

Fortunately another photo

One chuffed Malteser. And a frozen Snickers bar too!

will be an amazing photo!” (see Lewis’ collection at:

https://plus.google.com/ph otos/115330964987770141 274/albums/599476014906 2191377?authkey=CPeCzI 2Yq62_hgE ) With every pitch, this was turning into an Alpine jaunt.

The scale of the whole thing had really hit home now, with the enormous exposure on the route making me feel just immensely small (well yes, more than usual).

After Robin’s party cleared the Traverse, it was our turn to follow Tim. NMC County Climber

time to stick axes in the snow and go over the edge.

Knowing this was one of the more difficult sections, morale was greatly boosted when I found myself on stonking névé. Breathe, and smile. 

moment took the edge off things. Actually, since the crampon marks were on both sides of the arête, might an unglamorous bum shuffle perhaps do the trick? Thus was my first Alpine au cheval performed.

We carried on together up to the ridge above Tower Gap, where Tim then set up a boot-axe belay and said that, for this section, we’d go first.

It took me a couple of seconds to realise that it would be me on the sharp end, gulp! (Yes I know, it’s actually safer to be on lead for this bit, with the rope

Then came the gap. Mehh.

Left or right? After much peering, going right looked more straightforward, eventually seeing me hanging off my axe, hooked behind the boulder. But where was the platform? Bugger, still another inch or so to go under my crampons! Nothing to it but to close my eyes and

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slowly prise fingers off, until only one was left and my hand slid sufficiently down.

Steep last upper section, Tim was over the top ramp and over the lip, with the rope

cornices lying unbroken on top, our descent was to be down Coire Leis, via the

Tim Hakim and Lewis Preston. Team leader, and official photographer respectively. I just carried the ropes

Contact! Brilliant! Breathe, and smile again  I hastily attached myself to the slings round the boulder and brought Lewis over. Tim then joined the crowd in the gap, by which time things were getting overly cosy.

With another awkward step, Tim was over the gap, and proceeding steadily up the slope. I knew this to be described in the guide as the “easy ground to the top”. I could feel the top so close (though that could also have been Lewis) now, though, I didn’t dare think of the distance to the corrie floor that implied! With the rope taut, time to move again, and with each step, the axes plunged into perfect névé.

NMC County Climber

disappearing behind him, until Lewis too disappeared from sight. Last couple of ice axe whacks, and suddenly the wall gave way to flatness.

The top. And it was magnificent.

The clarity of the air was absolute, and wherever you looked, the vista was white capped peaks with Fort William below. Cliché, but the word ‘breathtaking’ fitted the bill perfectly. All that was left now was to take the summit photos and savour the moment as much as possible.

With a very high percentage of probability, I can safely say that I was the highest Malteser at that moment in time! With the gullies very heavily loaded, and monster Spring 2014

summit. The plateau was deserted, windless, and sun swept. All that was missing was a frozen Snickers bar, and I was the happiest climber on the mountain.

Time was, however, pressing, with the sun going quite low on the horizon, so we descended on to the CMD arête to follow a trail broken through the cornice, and into the coire below. With a final wistful glance, it was time to get face-to-face with some névé again as we downclimbed, then trudged backnto the hut, arriving at about 6pm. Distance climbed, 800m. Time on hill, 10hr+.

Breathe, and grin inanely 

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Adrian would be waiting for us in the North Face car park, so kit was quickly packed and backpacks hefted for the descent down to the valley. Before leaving, I opened the routes logbook in the hut, and with a sense of immense satisfaction, penned the words “Tower Ridge”.

A long drive brought us back South, getting to Newcastle after 1 am, giving plenty of time to look back and ponder on the last couple of months.

Most climbers have been talking about the generally

uncooperative winter, and this was also reflected on most of the club’s winter meets. I considered myself really lucky to have managed to get as much as I did, so thanks to all who had a hand in this! What has this season taught me? Well I’ve summed it up in Three Ps: Persevere (there will be something in condition…somewhere!), Promiscuate (your climbing partners that is! There will be someone up for something!) and Plod on!

Epilogue Monday morning saw me back in the office, feeling utterly brain dead and NMC County Climber

generally shell shocked by the previous weekend. Over my third coffee of the morning, I stole a glance around at my colleagues, and smiled inwardly. I had been somewhere awesome the day before, where they could only dream of going. It just made

Northern Corries we had high hopes of getting something done.

Wednesday was the most perfect day, with little or no wind and lots of sunshine.

We did alternate leads on Invernookie on Fiacaill

Pete enjoying the crux on Invernookie

me feel alive. That is the climber’s prerogative. 

‘One day like this a year would see me right’ Paul Quin

On the one hand there’s some truth in the song title* but on the other, a great day’s climbing in an otherwise poor winter does leave one wanting more. Not going to the Laggan and Glencoe meets due to appalling weather was really very frustrating so when Pete Smith and I headed for the Spring 2014

Buttress of Coire an’ t’Sneachda, which we both agreed was nearer IV than III due to a lack of white stuff in the important places. A picnic on the top with great views of the surrounding hills and a lovely stroll down to the car park in evening sunshine via the Fiacaill a’ Choire Chais made a splendid end to the day.

Foolishly we thought we were on toa winner when we went up again on Thursday.

What a difference 24 hours makes! Strong winds, even stronger gusts, tons of new powder and spindrift soon had us in retreat after a cold page 15 of 24

Paul topping out

food stop huddled in the boulders. I got blown over coming down but we had great fun meeting people on the way up and speculating how long they would stick it.

Some appeared to have bivvi gear – character building or what?

Two contrasting days which gave us a stark reminder of what Scottish weather can throw at you. .

 (*Footnote: ‘One day like this a year would see me right’ was a single by Elbow, released in 2008).

Domestic Winter Jim Rigg I just had to get out into the hills and test the system.

The domestic winter had been a non-event with two mid-week CIC hut bookings cancelled (once because the hut was virtually buried and once because the forecast was appalling). Then to cap it all, illness set in resulting in a period of almost three weeks NMC County Climber

of inactivity, antibiotics and noticeable weight loss. One’s level of fitness was close to rock bottom! Slowly a recovery of sorts was achieved and all that was required was a decent forecast.The plan was to do a respectable Lakeland walk and live to tell the tale.

The weather forecast for Monday March 24th is ‘fit for purpose’ and after an early start I am to be found affecting final preparations at the top of Dunmail Raise by 09.00 hours. A tricky verglassed path leads up Raise Beck, past Grisedale Tarn and down to Ruthwaite Lodge. From the lodge it gets more secluded - not many people head up into Ruthwaite Cove and I would say even fewer ascend the East ridge of Nethermost Pike. Steep in places with a cosmetic covering of scenic snow that lacks any real substance, the final section provides just the sort of challenge I need. Once on the ‘highway’, easy going leads to Striding Edge. Crampons on, down the steep slope, up Spring 2014

the little pinnacle, crampons off. Steady going along the level section sees me passing several people enjoying a ‘mostest fantabulous’ day.

“The standard of equipment of some people on this ridge beggars belief” opine a couple of experienced looking, polite gentlemen.

“You mean those two up ahead?” The ‘two up ahead’ are a young couple. He is equipped with the cheapest of bendy boots, and a rucksack about the size of my sandwich box. She is attired in a pair of fashion boots with minimal tread. Ice axes?

Walking poles? No chance.

We part company. I’m beginning to think I’m over equipped with my ‘Grivel G14s’, ice axe and full winter clothing. Meanwhile a reality check comes in the form of a lengthy slope of the proverbial iron-hard névé.

Crampons on, descend, crampons off, lunch in the sun at Red Tarn.

I figure I can ascend Swirral Edge without putting on crampons. All goes well page 16 of 24

with the plan until the drop on each side starts to become that little bit steeper. A thought occurs to me: my wife would kill me if she found out I’d fallen off here and it was discovered that my crampons were still in the bag! Crampons on, upward progress now much easier.

Holy moly, here they are

By the time I got to Needle Sports I’d cooled off. I hadn’t seen or heard any rescue helicopters so I reckoned they’d got away with it. My body survived the trial in reasonable order (the first 400mg of ‘vitamin I’* was consumed at the car!) and it was a great day to be out. .

standard deviations from ‘normal’, and delightful company despite or because of this.) Steve had demonstrated his mettle in the now famous rescue of a certain mad professor, who forgot his newly acquired rope skills and was stuck dangling above the choppy waters of Seal Song Geo.

Steve Bate beaming at the top of Zodiac after his solo ascent (photo by Andy Kirkpatrick, taken from Steve’s blog)

struggling down. “Well, I’m glad to see you’re still alive.

Your equipment is a fucking disgrace, and you should not be here.” Bland expressions and a nervous smile see me on my way only to meet, at the top of the edge, the two gents with whom I had spoken earlier. “How did they get down there?” “I have no idea. I ‘lost it’ and swore profusely at them. Now I feel guilty - I should have given them my poles and axe and helped them down.” Such thoughts rumbled through my mind as I walked along the tops and back to the tarn and thence the car.

NMC County Climber

(* Vitamin I = ibuprofen!) .



Kiwi Steve Comes To Town Gail Young

One evening in January, a red-haired Kiwi called Steve arrived at our house. I’d met him before, on Mingulay, and knew he was charming and funny, and apparently no madder than most of the climbers on that trip. (To me, as a non-climber, most of the people on Mingulay that year were near or beyond 2 Spring 2014

However, what Steve was to tell us over tea that evening, and later when giving his talk to NMC, would, in my eyes, elevate him to another level of eccentricity, skill, courage and determination, and certainly left me gobsmacked.

Steve lives in Elgin, Moray, and works at Bike Revolution. In June 2011 he was diagnosed with retinitis pigmentosa, a progressive condition of the retina which results in deteriorating peripheral vision and page 17 of 24

eventually blindness. Steve is now registered blind, with only 10% of normal peripheral vision. After diagnosis came a period of shock and despair; then he decided to respond by setting

A2) in a 31 hour push as a consolation prize. However Kirkpatrick decided to stay in the end, so an ascent of Lurking Fear (C2F, 5.7), with Alwyn Johnson in tow followed as final preparation,

Andy Kirpatrick bigging up Kiwi Steve in his show ‘Inappropriate Climbing’ at the Gala Theatre, Durham th on March 26

himself a big challenge, to climb El Capitán in Yosemite solo while he still could, and raise money for the charity North East Sensory Services.

His preparation and training took over 12 months, and involved practising hauling piles of tyres up a local quarry, extremely tough workouts daily in his specially converted garage, and support from Andy Kirkpatrick in learning the mysteries of long solo climbs.

What focus and determination.

His trip to Yosemite in June 2013 was to be 3 weeks long, Due to unforeseen circumstances it looked like Andy Kirkpatrick might have to return home early, so they climbed Zodiac (1800’, 5.7, NMC County Climber

before Steve’s 6 day ascent of Zodiac. In so doing he became the first visually impaired climber to do this solo.

What made hearing his story even more interesting and affecting for me as a nonclimber and long-time student of the human race was his frankness about his emotions during it all, especially on the Big Day itself. He described walking in to the cliff trying to think of every excuse possible to get out of doing it.

On arriving, he was terrified, panicky and shaking. Then he got out his iPod, started listening to some music and getting his gear out. Suddenly his mind cleared, he relaxed, and knew he was going to do it. Then he got just on with it.

Spring 2014

What was it that flicked a switch in his mind at that moment? How does that work? I guess we have all been there, you climbers especially. I guess distraction and humour can reduce fear.

Then there’s the ‘feel the fear and do it anyway’ approach.

And from my various experiences of ‘interesting routes’ when hill walking with John, and of finding myself faced with horrible precipices and scrambling of a level I would névér choose, there is the ‘Well, you’ve got no choice’ method of managing fear.

But Steve had a choice, and he carried on, and achieved something stupendous. Truly amazing! How did he do that??!!! How could he do that??!!! The mindset that must have been needed is beyond my imagination. Do climbers find themselves asking those questions about other climbers, or about people doing other things? If so, what kind of things? Or is this just a rather more extreme example of the madness that is sort of normal among climbers?

In his blog (www.kiwistevebate.com) Steve himself expresses incredulity at having done it, and isn’t quite sure how it happened! It’s a very special achievement, and whatever helped him do it will be useful in his new venture, training with the British Cycling Development Programme, hopefully leading to riding tandem in the 2016 Paralympic Games.

Go Steve! . 

page 18 of 24

‘Peak Rock’ – a book review

Fawcett? There’s no end to the permutations as each decade’s heroes strut their stuff up the ladder of difficulty and ‘last great problems’.

long after the event, what routes had been done and by whom. Only a few names were known to us, of whom Dave Hume Thanks to Mr. S. Claus of Brown, Whillans and Crew Lapland, this coffee table of a were the most famous. So book arrived at Chateau while in 1969 I was fighting Hume near the end of I lived in Matlock in the my way up HVS routes like December. Promoted as the late 60’s and early 70’s, Catastrophe Grooves at definitive story of cutting within walking distance of Wildcat with a broken ankle, edge climbing in the Peak High Tor, Wildcat, Willersley willing myself up Saul’s District, the book romps its and Black Rocks. We rarely Crack at the Roaches, (then a way through the history of met other climbers, and VS, now Rockfaxed up a the elite and their legacy grade), and freezing my Mouth watering menu of routes. The first few fingers off in the iced-up chapters provide a very crack of Parrot Face in As listed in the translated menu in the readable and well Dovedale, I was unaware Hotel Fuente el Cura in Sax, near Alicante. researched account of that standards were going the early days of rock through the roof not far Starters climbing on the crags of from where I was busy Anchovies of the Cantabrian one (2 filets) Derbyshire and bumbling. (Nothing Foie’s terrina with his contrast Staffordshire, with many changes…..) Peak Rock Handmade croquettes of the grandmother previously unseen is the perfect reference (2 ud) photographs of the key book for this kind of Creaking of foie’s scallop players in action. This thing, and I can now find National squid of Bay to the plate detailed approach out that in that very year ‘Callos con pata’ of beef and snout continues right up to the Tom Proctor was putting present day, illustrated up E4s and E5s before Seasonal Vegetables throughout with a range the grade was even Kettledrum of vegetables, Iberian ham of of contemporary images invented – Our Father acorn, and cheese goat and modern photos of (E4 6b) and Wee Doris Creaking artichokes, ham, foie and Oporto key routes. It’s a lot to (E4 5c) at Stoney sauce take in, but its focus on Middleton, and Green how standards of the Death at E5 6b at The Eggs hardest routes rose in Millstone. At Stanage, E4 El Pecador: potatoes and fried egg and each era keeps the pace 6a was the fashionable sautéed gluttonies rolling, despite some grade of the year, with obvious changes in Simpkins and Gosling Sea writing styles in some producing routes like Hake of ‘thorn’ to the plate chapters.

Calvary, again before Cod poach in syrup It’s a bit like a 130 grading was as precise as year relay race, with the it is today (?) and became Land baton of hardest routes the basis of endless Leg of lamb in his juice of the day passing from debate. 1969 was also the climber to climber – you year that a young Ron Sweets can pick your own Fawcett made his first Tart tatin of the grandmother fantasy 4 x 4 relay team roped climb, (I was to cover the decades briefly climbing harder Puttrell passes to Pigott, than him then?) and on to Proctor and then unlike the close-knit groups within a couple of years was Dawes. Or how about who were competing at the putting up new routes at E3 Harding to Brown to top level, we had little idea of and E4 before he really hit Bancroft to Moffatt? What? what other climbers were up his stride later in the 70’s.

How could I have missed to. The rarity of climbing (OK, he wins).

Kirkus to Whillans to magazines and the absence of The book is probably at its Woodward to McClure? Or an internet meant that only in most comprehensive, at least Herford to Street to Allen to guidebooks did we learn, in terms of coverage, about NMC County Climber

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the 70’s and 80’s on both gritstone and limestone. This was a period that could easily be called a new golden age in the Peak. Sticky rubber, bumhugging lycra and Friends had arrived, so had serious training and bolts – E-grades became a realistic target for the many rather than the few, and climbing magazines, the dole and even some commercial sponsors, all

and nicely illustrated narrative.

It is a tour de force, that’s for sure. You’d be hard pressed to read it in one sitting, but it’s a rich quarry to mine in bite-sized chunks.

Peak Rock is as definitive and readable a history of those who have pushed standards in the Peak as you could wish for, with some rare insights into the mind-set of the

ensured that the achievements of, and opinions about, the activities of top climbers were more widely reported.

Ethics were under scrutiny too, and these chapters in particular shed an informed light on the issues of chipping, hard brushing, stealing routes, pre-practice, yo-yoing, chalk, freeing aid routes and points of aid, and the advent of bolts. The accounts of this period are enlivened by quotes and observations from the protagonists themselves, and make what could have been a turgid procession of route history into a highly readable

dedicated and obsessed, some famous, some unsung. It deals with landmark routes and events, like the ascents of Promontory Traverse, London Wall, Downhill Racer, Linden, Fern Hill, Beau Geste, Master’s Edge, End of the Affair, Parthian Shot, Revelations, Mecca, Hubble, Meshuga, Brad Pitt – a modern entry list for the budding wall-bred climber?

There’s a mention too of our own Andy Earl’s first ground-up ascent of Careless Torque on page 298.

For the more recent years, ascents by Ruth Jenkins, Airlie Anderson, Lisa Rands and Mina Leslie-Wujastyk,

NMC County Climber

Spring 2014

get a mention, as well as photos of Lucinda Whittaker and Hazel Findlay on key routes, reminding us that now there are two genders on planet climbing.

It has its flaws – there’s no proper index, which is frustrating if you want to find anything specific. There are inconsistencies in the writing from chapter to chapter, some have dates, grades and crags to help you navigate, other chapters assume that you’ll know where the routes are or what grade they are. The chronology jumps about a bit here and there in an attempt to focus on say, developments on limestone or bouldering, but it works. It is also pricy, and the first print run of 2000 has almost sold out at the time of writing, so it could become a rarity like Extreme Rock, although we can probably expect a second print soon.

So there you have it. A book about rock climbing through 130 years in one of the UK’s main forcing grounds for standards. Get someone to buy it for you!

The B&W cover and title, stylish as it is, made me think – how about a warm orange cover shot of a County crag for a tasty coffee table “Northumberland Rock”?

We have the history pretty well-documented in No Nobler County and the NMC guidebooks, the illustrations of the early days must still be around, we have many of the key people around to interview, though we might have to hurry up in a few cases, and for up-to-date images there are some fine photographers in the area…..any takers to be joint editors? Or should we stay quiet and hope that people stay away?.  page 20 of 24

Snow on the Edge White changes the world, piles up buried rock Beneath delicate crystal, falling and flocking, Spindrift blowing, lifting and melting, ice Forming, freeze-thawing, harder than stone.

Chiseled teeth scrape, sharp point finds blue, Step up slowly, pole, axe, balance the crest.

Cloud swirls the gust, place points where white sticks, Clamber up, neither snow nor rock will last.

Breathe the cold air, kickstep the final slope, Be amazed at the distance, like a wintery World you knew was there, didn’t dare to hope For, cold clear sunlit beauty of shimmering light.

Zip tight against the cold, stamp warm boots deep, Hurry along the icy ridge, smile widening, Summit of Helvellyn reached again, Mountain of winter dreaming.

Martin Cooper

Ice climbers, Cogne style (John Spencer)

NMC County Climber

Spring 2014

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Club Business I am grateful to Adrian Wilson for this review of Club activities during 2013.

The Club year At the club's AGM on 22nd January this year, I provided a brief resume of club activity over the past membership year which seemed to be well received by those present so I thought I'd put together a summary for the County Climber.

The Laggan winter meet saw most of us heading up to the Northern Corries, as Creag Meagaidh was not in ideal condition. Our Glencoe winter meet was based at the Alex Macintyre hut and saw most parties in Stob Coire nan Lochan on Saturday, with some returning there on Sunday with the rest split between Buachaille Etive Mor and skiing at Glencoe Mountain. The final club winter meet of the season was at the Climbers' Club hut, Riasg in Roybridge. Saturday saw all of us on the relatively sheltered Sgurr an Finisaig as ferocious gales battered everything higher up. Sunday was another team outing, this time to Beinn Udlaih in Glen Orchy which had some reasonable ice routes for us to go at.

The first trad event of the year was the new members' meet in Langdale, based at Raven Crag cottage just behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll hotel. An excellent day was had on Raven Crag on Saturday but heavy rain on Saturday night and Sunday thwarted any climbing NMC County Climber

ambitions. Even the canyoning option was abandoned due to extreme water levels, so a few of us headed to the new bouldering wall, Eden Rock at Carlisle on the way home.

Next was the early May Bank Holiday meet based at Denoilin near Llanberis.

Teams headed to Holyhead Mountain, Tremadog and

Mingulay at the end of May for a week of superlative sea cliff climbing, kayaking, wildlife watching and swimming with seals A club cleanup of Ravensheugh took place in early June with a handful of us bringing some of the classics of the crag back into a slightly cleaner condition.

We returned to the Alex

Lewis making the most of the crap weather during the Lagangarbh meet (Alison Jones)

Gogarth over the extended weekend and due to very heavy Bank Holiday traffic on the return journey there was a spot of sport climbing at Panearth just off the A55.

Several members made the annual pilgrimage to the magical Hebridean island of Spring 2014

Macintyre hut in Ballachulish for the Scottish Rock meet in mid June. Most opted for a very wet, midge-infested adventure on Garbh Bheinn’s Great Ridge, not returning to the hut until after midnight.

Having convinced daughter Natalie to come, I decided page 22 of 24

that Curved Ridge on the Buachaille was a more suitable objective, but everyone had a memorable day in the end. Sunday saw a group outing to Polldubh crags in Glen Nevis which, being overcast, humid and still, was slightly midgy.

Early July was the President's meal at the Bluebell Hotel in Bellingham. Saturday saw three of us head to Queen's Crag, some tricky climbing in a great location with a superb evening thereafter. Sunday saw most of us at Peel Crag for a very fine day's climbing in glorious weather.

Mid-July saw us helping the BMC and other local clubs organise and run the first BMC North East Festival of Walking and Climbing, based at the Bluebell Hotel in Belford, with climbing at Bowden Doors and Kyloe Out. This was an outstanding event which helped interaction between local clubs and activists and had a tremendous social aspect - so good that it's being repeated this year at Wooler.

In early August the Peak Meet based in Stoney Middleton saw action on Stanage, Froggatt and the Roaches despite a gin comparison event kindly sponsored by Dave Hume's partner in climb, Mr Blood.

Later in the same month we visited Galloway sea cliffs with lots of Saturday action at Meikle Ross in fantastic sunshine. Sunday’s weather was not as kind and some headed home or went

mountain biking, but for those that stuck it out another day's cragging was had once things dried out.

Early September was the second year a clean-up of Crag Lough was organised by the Wanneys' Climbing Club with support from the BMC. A few club members helped out with cleaning and gardening to return a number of routes to active duty, some of which had not been climbed for many years. A BBQ and pub social on Saturday night was very welcome and on Sunday we had great weather for a superb day's cragging on the restored routes. There was even a BMC-sponsored film crew on hand to record the efforts and rewards of both days.

Late September saw a group of us staying at the Clogwyn MC's hut with teams visiting Tremadog, the slate quarries above Llanberis and Llanberis Pass in some questionable weather but we got the best out of the weekend. An autumn trip to Brimham Rocks ensured that attendees’ hands were suitably trashed with it being a first visit for most!

The winter season started with an informal invite to the NMC from the Wanneys' CC to their New Year's meet at Feshiebridge which I attended. This was a great social trip and it was good to meet some more of their club members but the climbing conditions were somewhat suboptimal and most teams only got routes done in the Northern Corries on the first

day. Subsequent days followed a pattern of unfounded enthusiasm and commitment drawing a decreasing number of participants into the Corries to get generally pummelled by the weather and not actually climbing given the snow conditions.

Things improved for the first NMC winter meet, again based in Feshiebridge and included a very successful Winter Skills course for 6 of the attendees with the rest in action in the Northern Corries and Lurcher’s Crag.

All of the above meets and events were alongside the regular Wednesday evenings at Hadrian Leisure during the winter and across Northumberland crags during BST. I feel privileged to have been able to attend and participate in so many of these and to see so many other active club members.

Over 70 club members took part to some extent across these events which is well, over half of the total membership which is pretty good going. So I'm looking forward to an equally active and successful 2014 - whilst the winter season may not been that great, BST is almost upon us and time to get out on rock.

Apologies if I've missed any events or important details out, my excuse is that I'm writing this from memory on an aeroplane bound for Morocco for 2 weeks adventurous trad climbing!



 NMC County Climber

Spring 2014

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The website includes various discussion forums, a photoarchive for members’ climbing photos, and online guides for most Northumberland crags.

NMC Guidebooks Indoor climbing: £1 off the standard entry price at:  Sunderland Wall.  Durham Wall.  Newcastle Climbing Centre (‘Byker church’)  Climb Newcastle (‘Byker pool’) - Wednesday. nights only.

Also winter season Wednesday nights at Hadrian Park Leisure Centre, £5 entrance fee, open to NMC members only.

NMC Website The NMC has a very informative website www.thenmc.org.uk

NMC County Climber

NMC members pay a discounted price for any guidebook published by the NMC. Currently available are the following guides:  Northumberland Climbing Guide Definitive Guide to climbing in Northumberland. £12.50 to members (RRP £18.95)  Northumberland Bouldering Guide The 2nd edition, £12.50 to members (RRP £19.95) For the above 2 guides add £2 P&P if required. Contact John Earl on 0191 236 5922

Spring 2014

 No Nobler County A history of the NMC and climbing in Northumberland.

Now ONLY £2.00 Hurry while stocks Last!!!

Contact Martin Cooper on 0191 252 5707

SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT A NEW BATCH OF CLUB T-SHIRTS & HOODIES ARE NOW AVAILABLE TO ORDER T-Shirts (men's and women's) £15 Hoodies £25 Various sizes and colours available Contact Davva to order and/or for more information at: davva23@hotmail.com

Photo: Near the summit of Helvellyn (Martin Cooper)

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