County climber spring 2007

Northumbrian Mountaineering Club

Quarterly Magazine - March 2007

Winter Tales

Membership Details

Quarterly Magazine Contributions to this magazine are always welcome - photos are especially welcome.

Send Contributions to:

The NMC is not, however a commercial organization and does NOT provide instructional courses.

Members are Prospective until they fulfill the conditions for Full Membership (see membership form.) Full membership is valid for one year from the end of February. Provisional membership expires at the end of March each year.

Membership gets you: • Copy of the quarterly magazine.

• BMC Public Liability Insurance for climbing incidents.

• Discounted guide books.

• Discounted entry at certain indoor climbing walls.

• Access to the extensive NMC library

NMC Meets

Join the NMC

About the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club (NMC) The NMC is a meeting point for climbers, fell walkers and mountaineers of all abilities.

Our activities centre on rock-climbing in the summer and snow and ice climbing in the winter.

Meets are held regularly throughout the year.

The NMC handbook (available to all members) and the NMC website list the dates and locations of all meets.

This magazine lists the meets arranged for the next few months.

Non-members: Are always welcome to attend meets.

Note: Winter indoor meets require a minimum of prospective membership (see below) due to venue requirements for third party insurance.

WARNING! Rock climbing is dangerous. You could be injured or killed if you attempt any of the activities described. There is NO substitute for experience.

NMC Quarterly Magazine

Download a Membership form from: www.thenmc.org.uk Send the signed and completed membership form with a cheque made out to NMC for the membership fee (see below) to the Membership Secretary at the address shown on the membership form.

Membership Fees •Full £22 •Prospective £10.00

Committee -2007/2008 President – Peter Bennett Vice Pres. – Malcolm Rowe Secretary – Steve Orrell Treasurer – John Mountain Membership – Steve Orrell Access - Bill Renshaw Magazine ed – Peter Flegg Guide books – John Earl Librarian – Bryn Roberts Hut co-ord. – Neil Cranson Hut bookings – Derek Cutts Social Sec – Carolyn Horrocks General:- Steve Nagy, Martin Waugh, Richard Pow, Sam Judson & John Dalrymple.

March 2007

magazine@thenmc.org.uk

Get this Magazine FASTER via Email If you received this magazine as a paper copy, you may be interested to learn that you'll get it a lot faster if you have it delivered via email.

To arrange for electronic delivery, contact the membership secretary at: secretary@thenmc.org.uk Note: If you use a limited space free email account (such as Yahoo or Hotmail), you need to keep at least 1.5MB space available in your account at all times or your electronic copy of the magazine may not reach you.

Copyright The contents of this magazine are copyright and may not be reproduced without permission of the NMC. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the editor or the NMC.

Photos Unless otherwise stated all photos in this issue were taken by the author of the article.

Cover Shot Bryn Roberts on the snowshoe descent from Montenvers to Chamonix, January 2007.

Photo by Peter Flegg

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What’s in this issue?

Committee Matters. ...................................... 3 Bowderstone hut update ............................... 3 Editor’s news ................................................ 4 Membership subscriptions DUE................... 4 Wednesday evening meets............................ 5 Weekend meets ............................................. 5 Glencoe, February 2007 ............................... 6 East Woodburn – Feb 2007 .......................... 7 NMC Winter Ceilidh .................................... 9 Winter Skills ............................................... 10 eNewsletter ................................................. 12 Chamonix, December 2006 ........................ 13 A Free Weekend in Borrowdale ................. 14 Cornice Hangers ......................................... 16 NMC Financial Report 2005/6 ................... 18 Bowderstone hut ......................................... 19

Committee Matters.

Peter Flegg has taken on the editing role and will no doubt be twisting your arm in the near future to write a climbing article for use in the magazine. ◄

Bowderstone hut update Peter Bennett (NMC President)

Most members must be aware that there has been a lot of debate over the last year or so regarding the future of the Bowderstone hut, and indeed whether it should have a future within the club. This arose because the hut use by members declined in recent years, and the relatively small team of volunteers who maintain the place became disheartened by the lack of interest and support from the general club membership.

Thanks are due to retiring committee members.

An EGM in 2005, attended by only about 30 members, voted to retain the hut, but the small attendance at the meeting served somewhat to verify the view that the club members were not interested. As Malcolm explained at the AGM, the current situation is that, following an abortive approach from the Climbers Club for some kind of reciprocal arrangement, we are soldiering on with the hut as before.

Additional meets, based at the hut, have been scheduled for this coming season with the intent of reviving use by members.

Sue Bevan has done sterling work for a number years organising activities on the upkeep of Bowderstone hut, carrying on the work of her many predecessors, so that the hut is now in excellent shape. Thanks Sue. Neil Cranston has taken over from Sue, with Bill Blyth carrying on as foreman of the hordes of attendees at the working meets.

So get yourself along there to one of the best locations in the Lake District. Thanks to the efforts of the many members who have been involved in maintaining the hut over the years, it is in great nick (not withstanding the views of the Climbers Club who consider it to be in urgent need of refurbishment !!!), and a super place to stay for climbing, walking or just chilling out.

As social secretary for the last few years, Jon Trafford has organised some excellent speakers and we are indebted to him for that. Caroline Horrocks has taken over that particular mantle, and will be advised and assisted by Ben Gilbert with a view to getting a good balance of speakers.

Chris Davis has retired as editor of the newsletter. Thanks Chris for the splendid job you have done over the last few years.

For those interested, there is an excellent history of the NMC’s association with the Bowderstone Hut from 1964 to 1995 in No Nobler County. The articles by Doug Blackett and Geoff Breen give an insight into the effort put in by countless individuals over that period. Since 1995 the work has been carried on by other equally dedicated people to provide the facility which we now enjoy, if we so wish.

Peter Bennett (NMC President)

You will see from this issue of the Newsletter (now renamed the Quarterly Magazine) that your committee has been busy organising an action packed season for the forthcoming summer. Warm dry weather has been ordered, and you are all doubtless itching to go, so get out there and make the best of it.

NMC Quarterly Magazine

March 2007

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In order to view it you’ll need to have Adobe Reader installed on your computer (download the reader for free from www.adobe.com)

One interesting little nugget from Doug’s article is that initially the National Trust forbade the mixed sleeping set up, and conventions of the time required the provision of a chastity curtain to divide the sexes. And I thought they were the swinging sixties! ◄

By electing to receive your copy electronically you will:

Editor’s news

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Receive your copy about a week earlier than those who receive the printed copy (that goes out by snail mail).

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Have a colour copy of the magazine that you can also print from your computer at home.

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Help your club cut costs by saving money on printing and postage.

Peter Flegg

And it’s hello from me…and goodbye from Chris Davis, my predecessor, who produced a great series of newsletters over the last few years.

I hope I can reach the same standards that Chris has set, but in reality this magazine is what you, the members, make it—that means I need your climbing photos and written contributions.

I will always be happy to get your climbing report even if you are a new member writing about your first ever climb with the club or perhaps writing your first ever article for a magazine like this—don’t worry we all have to start somewhere.

Send your contributions to me at: magazine@thenmc.org.uk Format change You’ll note that the format of the magazine has been changed this issue from A5 to A4. This has been done as future issues will be available as a colour PDF file. You will then have the possibility to print out your own colour version of the magazine at home.

Next Issue The next issue of this magazine is due in late June—there are already a few tales lined up of climbing in other countries written by some of our members from overseas.

Electronic copy of this magazine This magazine will be available in electronic format (PDF) beginning with the next issue in late June.

To arrange for electronic delivery, contact the membership secretary Steve Orrell on: secretary@thenmc.org.uk Note: If you use a limited space free email account address (such as Yahoo or Hotmail), you will need to keep at least 2.5MB space available in your account at all times or your electronic copy of the magazine may not reach you. ◄

To get this issue as a PDF in colour – contact me on magazine@thenmc.org.uk

Membership subscriptions DUE Membership expired at the end of February—if you haven’t paid your subscription then please do it NOW. To renew send a cheque made out to the NMC for £22 and post it with your name and address details to the membership secretary: Steve Orrell, 30 Fern Ave, Hartford Grange, Cramlington, Northumberland NE23 3GL Or contact him on: secretary@thenmc.org.uk ◄

NMC Quarterly Magazine

March 2007

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Wednesday evening meets

Weekend meets

Members meet on Wednesday evenings (weather permitting) for outdoors climbing at the locations shown below. No need to call any one—just turn up. You will need to bring all your own equipment.

The following list shows all weekend climbing meets arranged until the end of July.

Check the NMC website for the crag location details (www.thenmc.org.uk) and also for indoor wall alternatives if weather or forecast is not good. Meet afterwards in the pub shown in italics.

You MUST contact the meet leader in advance, as accommodation may be limited or already fully booked.

Note: A deposit may be required to reserve your place on a weekend trip.

28 March 07

Shaftoe, a great bouldering venue, Highlander

04 April 07

Rothley, the best crack in Northumberland? Dyke Neuk

11 April 07

Corby’s, the easy access crag (1 min walk-in), Anglers arms

30 Mar01 Apr 07

Southern Cairngorms, stay at Muir of Inverey, Braemar Malcolm Rowe 0191 236 6648

27-29 April 07

NMC Hut, Borrowdale, New and old members Steve Orrell 07813 100 886

04-07 May 07

Peak District, grit stone climbing, camping, long weekend Steve Orrell 07813 100 886

18 April 07

Jack Rock, good climbs but don’t forget the insect repellent, Northumberland Arms

25 April 07

Peel, Twice Brewed

18-20 May 07

02 May 07

South Yardhope, Bird in the Bush

NMC hut, Borrowdale Peter Bennett 01670 515 263

25-28 May 07

Ullapool, NW Scotland, long weekend, camping Bryn Roberts 07734 321 456

01-03 June 07

Annual Dinner, Stay NMC Hut, Borrowdale Peter Bennett 01670 515 263

09 May 07

Linshiels, Turks Head

16 May 07

Bowden Doors, the most popular crag in the NE, Black Swan

23 May 07

Simonside, large range of quality climbs, Turks Head

15-17 June 07

Kyloe Out, second most popular crag in the NE, Black Swan

Langdale, camping Steve Orrell 07813 100 886

06-08 July 07

St Bees/Lakes Kin Choi 0191 441 2263

13-15 July 07

Peak District Jon Trafford 07974 345 551

30 May 07 06 June 07

Crag Lough, the longest routes in Northumberland, Twice Brewed

13 June 07

Wanneys, large range of quality climbs, Highlander

20 June 07

Sandy Crag, Turks Head

27 June 07

Bowden Doors, Black Swan

04 July 07

Kyloe In, Black Swan

11 July 07

Simonside/Ravenheugh, Turks Head

18 July 07

Kyloe Out, Black Swan

25 July 07

Crag Lough, Twice Brewed

Annual Dinner The club dinner will be at the Borrowdale Hotel as usual, on Saturday June 2nd. The Bowderstone hut is reserved for club members that weekend.

The cost of the 6 course table d’hote menu at the Borrowdale is £24.45 per person. Come along and fill your boots!

Bookings to Peter Bennett 01670 515 263

NMC Quarterly Magazine

March 2007

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Glencoe, February 2007 Graham Williams

This was Bryn’s meet, only Bryn was ill and couldn’t make it. Ten people did make the meet ensuring a full hut, half of whom were either called Tim or Clare. Is this a record? Anyway Blackrock Cottage is a splendid venue and when I arrived with Adam via an unplanned detour of Edinburgh’s city centre everybody else was settled in. Tim C had already had a day out on the hill and reported good conditions high up. With a good forecast Clare and Tim headed for the Ben, myself, Adam and Mike for Aonach Mor, Tim C, Tim H and young Michael for Stob Corrie nan Lochan, also the venue favoured by Clare and Philippe, whilst Carolyn headed out on her bike for Glen Etive.

There was less snow on Aonach Mor than any other time I’ve been to climb there. At the top some brave snowboarders and skiers were making the best of pisted

hard néve and ice. However the overhead conditions were superb and the snow was rock hard as we down climbed easy gully.

A limited number of routes were in good condition. With Left and Right Twins busy we went for the third(?) of the twins, Forgotten Twin. It was in great condition with a surprisingly icy second pitch.

Mike and Adam at the cornice

Cunning planning left us with not enough time to do a second route but enough time to get down to Fort William to watch the England vs. Scotland rugby game. We left the pub as quietly as possible in order to avoid a diplomatic incident.

Back at the hut we found that Tim’s C and H had had a great day on Dorsal Arete, Michaels’ first winter day out.

Clare and Philippe had an equally good time on Boomerang Gully and Carolyn had a splendid time down Glen Etive.

Last back were Clare and Tim who had done Number Two Gully on the Ben followed by the traverse round over Carn Mor Dearg, a fine effort.

Sunday was cloudy but still with good snow conditions. Munros were ascended and Tim C, Mike and Adam did ‘Turf Worm’ up in Stob Corrie, it’s not in the guide book but I’m sure Tim will give you the details if you fancy a repeat ascent. So another splendid Scottish weekend was over, and for once nobody had an epic. ◄

Forgotten Twin NMC Quarterly Magazine

March 2007

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East Woodburn – Feb 2007 Sam Judson What: First climbing trip of 2007—for some of us Where: East Woodburn—15 miles north of Corbridge When: 3 February 2007 Who: Sam Judson, Jonathan Dixon, Mark Surley Why: Because it’s there!

Links: NMC Guide new routes - tinyurl.com/yryaej

web site) I took the lead, racked up and set off up the very lovely Green Slab (VD).

Not as green as its name suggests, but do mind out for the guano - a wonderful first climb of the year, plenty of gear, easy going but still interesting.

Then we went for your more typical 'Northumbrian' VDiff, Stilton. Only got 1 piece of gear in, which probably wasn't that good anyway - very glad to get to the top.

Some optimistic fool put a post on the NMC forum saying that the weather looked good for Saturday 3rd February. There then followed a now familiar routine of debating a) the merits of believing the Met office weather reports and b) which great Northumbrian venue would be graced by our presence. As the weekend fast approached and the number of participants settled (as did the weather forecast) we took the suggestion of John Dalrymple that East Woodburn might be a good venue to try out. It seemed to have just enough of the easy stuff (VDiff-S) to get us going with the possibility of some harder stuff if we felt adventurous (HS-VS).

A quick buttie later, Mark took the reins and decided to up the stakes and gave Cheese Wedge (S) a go. He had a bit of a 'moment' on the slabby top but apart from the foul language he was fine. I followed him up and can verify that it's a tricky little so and so. Then followed a chat at the top to discuss the merits of using sandstone in the construction industry (used as aggregate, but don't dry it out too much as it won't compress correctly!) after which we carried on. The only noises to be heard were the

Arrangements where made, phone numbers exchanged and a time of 10am at the crag was set; we were ready, the first outdoor trip of 2007 was underway, nothing could stop us now.

We found the crag easily enough, located through 2 gates a couple of 100yards after East Woodburn, the turning now signposted to High Nick Quarry (contrary to what the guidebook claims).

We arrived within minutes of each other, and set off across the field to the crag - a 5 minute walk-in is where its at, practically a roadside crag. The weather was brilliant, a very light breeze and a warm sun kept the temperature up. A quick check of the rock showed it was wonderfully dry.

After a brief look at the guidebook (and already lamenting the fact I forgot to print off the new routes from the NMC NMC Quarterly Magazine

Jon on Buddha Ledge' March 2007

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occasional echo from the quarry nearby and some army helicopters which flew over.

Then I convinced myself that a VS was the order of the day, and with only 2 in the guidebook to choose from went for Patties Route (VS 5a). This turned out to be John Dalrymple's only remaining route in the county (that isn't currently residing under Kielder Water). Except I didn't quite get it right.

Photo – Jon Dixon

The route we did climb doesn't seem to have a name (at least according to the NMC web site) so I think I actually ended up climbing a new route. It takes the corner just to the right of Patties Route up to the break, and then step right and up the crack of Pedestal and Crack (also a new route not in the guidebook).

I don't think it's the same as Pedestal and Crack, but I'm not 100% sure. If it is a new route we're calling it "Hairy Arsed Crack"; you really don't want to hear the conversation that was going on while we climbed the route which inspired the name, suffice it to say various mental images went through various people's heads and they may never recover from the trauma. I reckon its probably a VDiff, and I'm giving it one star as well as it was a very nice route with plenty of gear, nice solid holds but still requiring some thought in parts.

Mark on Cheese Wedge (S)

right into the gully to advance to the next good hold and to place some gear, and then he just kept going. The crux was about 3 metres off the ground, but with very little gear in up to that point it proved to be the stumbling block. I did however manage to second the route, not that I'm trying to gloat.

So after the disappointment of not leading my first VS I took on the challenge of The Arete (HS 4a*). This was a lovely route, took me a good 5 minutes to work out the correct starting position. After that it was pretty much plain sailing, although a bit more effort hanging around placing gear than the previous routes, and the gear kept wanting to go where my fingers were.

Final climb of the day was the 'other' VS, Foxey (VS 4c). Mark gave this one a valiant attempt, but in the end it got the better of him and he ended up stepping NMC Quarterly Magazine

Just so he doesn't feel left out we should point out that Phil turned up just as we were packing up. He sat and had a cup of tea from his flask (and a fig roll no doubt) as we wandered off into the distance. Don't worry Phil, you'll get a climb next time.

So that was it; a wonderful day out was had by all, 6 good climbs where done (or partially done), the possibility of a first ascent, a good laugh and all by the 3rd of February. That's what I call a result!

The photos were taken by Sam Judson (the one of Jon) and Jonathan Dixon (the others) on a Canon 400D. â—„

March 2007

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NMC Winter Ceilidh Carolyn Horrocks

So we found ourselves (it was a difficult navigation exercise for some) at the aptly named Northumbrian Piper. The room wasn't quite as roomy as it looked from the website. But there aren't too many traditional Northumbrian Punk ballards (wasn't plastic Bertrand a famous Belgian?) so I didn't think the low ceiling would cause too many pogo injuries. A few club members did however leave with the imprint of the chandalier on their forehead.

Like most climbing clubs the NMC has more women than men! This could have created difficulties as most of the dances required a set of 8 couples. We were undaunted and a number of lads gladly NMC Quarterly Magazine

The lack of women was not a problem but we were absolutely clueless about the dances. There was at least one couple who had obviously practiced the moves but most were doing the dances ‘on-sight’. No matter, what we lacked in skill was gained in enthusiasm. We were certainly enthusiastic, the ceiling of the downstairs bar looked like it was about to burst. We were expertly choreographed by the

Party pants

Photo - Sam Judson

Well it didn't feel much like winter this year but it was still good to have a social to liven us up after Christmas. At least the poor weather (or good if you don't like snow & ice) meant it wasn't to hard to find a Friday when half the club hadn't decamped for Scotland and, most importantly, The Famous Belgians were available to play. The mission was to find a pub, near a metro, with good beer and a big function room. Finally, there was the job of persuading everyone that country dancing really could be fun despite their traumatic experiences in the school assembly hall.

volunteered to be girls for the evening.

They took to it very quickly and were enjoying it too! There were some disputes about who was leading but this is to be expected between climbing couples.

Famous Belgians who did a brilliant job of calling the dances. We mostly followed the instructions with a few of our own artistic variations thrown in. There was certainly plenty of energetic jumping about in time to their fantastic playing.

We all had a great night so thanks again to Rob Say and his band. We'll do it again next year so does anyone have suggestions for pubs with big (high ceiling) function rooms for next year? ◄

March 2007

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Winter Skills—What is the Club’s

Tim to check exactly what we wanted to get out of the weekend.

Role in Training?

Amanda Welch

On the Cairngorms meet in January Alison and I took the opportunity to do a winter skills training weekend run by Tim Hakim, a club member and instructor. I am aware that the issue of the club offering subsidised training has been an area for debate so I thought it might be useful to add our perspective to the discussion.

On the Saturday we went to Coire an tSneachda and covered step kicking, self arrest with and without an ice axe! What a laugh we had with the ice axe arrests, on our fronts, backs, feet first, head first, you name it we did it. The highlight came when Alison was sliding down head first on her front and her top got stuck on the ice—very cold! Had we had a camera to hand we could have added a whole new perspective to page 3 for this magazine.

Firstly I have to say the course was very The thing that really struck home for us well organised. A preparation meeting on the Wednesday before gave us the chance to check we had the correct gear and that the gear actually fitted.

It turned out Alison’s crampons weren’t fitted correctly to her boots despite having been set by the shop assistant last year. It is best Alison and Amanda on Coire Cas Headwall to find this out in the warmth on that day was the ‘faff’ factor. I had heard of a leisure centre rather than on a day out. people talk about this but I really hadn’t I wasn’t able to make this meeting but the info was backed up with a briefing sheet that covered topics like the weather and avalanche dangers, what to wear and carry, packing a rucksack, choosing crampons and axes, food and drink and a whole host of other top tips and handy hints. Tim also gave us a laminated 1:50000 map of the Northern Corries that included advice on pacing and timing on the back. Importantly the prep meeting gave Alison the chance to ask Tim questions and allay fears and for NMC Quarterly Magazine

grasped the concept until I was experiencing it myself first hand. I had a broken right thumb so my dexterity was reduced anyway but everything was more complicated than expected: sorting out layers of clothes was a hassle in the snow and strong winds with gloves on—I’ve got to learn to get that right before I set off next time!

Gloves featured high as a make or break bit of kit for me, cold ends of fingers or gloves that didn’t fit quite right just made

March 2007

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the faff factor worse. Surprisingly those new gloves we’d got for the trip didn’t always do what they said they would and cold wet hands further reduced dexterity.

We did however have a great time going up, down and sideways on the snow and ice with our crampons and axes. As for eating and drinking—well there were multiple problems like finding the time, too cold and doing it all with gloves on, yes this could be the start of a new faff plan diet!

As the day progressed it also become evident that I had left an essential piece of kit, my new ‘shewee’, at home in the bathroom. Never again will I forget that—it is very breezy for us girls and, I think, so much easier for you blokes. We did

cutting steps and avalanche analysis (the Rutschblock test). We then went up onto the plateau via the Fiacaill a’ Choire Chais before descending the Coire Cas headwall to learn about simple belay techniques (Stomper belay, Boot axe belay and bucket seat with buried axe). The wind was up on Sunday and at times the gusts nearly took us off our feet, which took a bit of getting used too. It was at this time we learnt that we needed to invest in decent walking poles, both Alison’s and mine packed up part way through the day and that didn’t help when we were battling to stay upright.

By the end Alison and I were both pretty exhausted but pleased with ourselves. It felt fantastic to have covered the basics of winter mountaineering, but importantly it

At the top of Fiacaill Coire Cas

consider getting catheterised for the next trip but that may be a bit extreme and Alison’s other suggestion of trying out my ‘shewee’ next time may be taking friendship a little too far.

On to Sunday: we went to the back of Coire Cas to do a revision of ice axe arrests, kicking steps and we also learnt about NMC Quarterly Magazine

had turned out quite different to our expectations. We had known from the start that Tim was taking us out to teach us, hence the pressure was off us and we didn’t need to apologise for what we didn’t know, for holding people up or for spoiling their weekend. I didn’t need to phone the meet leader before and ask if it was really OK for us to go and to give prior warning that we

March 2007

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I see that they offer their full members subsidised training weekends—somehow they have got round the liability concerns.

would be on the meet, aware that it could change how people felt about going. Not to say that we won’t be doing all those things in the future. We are both really thankful to all of you who have taken us out, informally taught us, given your time and support, we couldn’t have continued in the club without your support.

After having taken part in this training weekend I think the debate about whether the club provides instruction to newer members and the liability concerns attached to that warrants further consideration. It’s great that there are lots of new members and the club needs these new members to keep going. The difficulty is that the current set up means when newer members are welcomed on to weekend meets the leader is put in a position of providing informal instruction to enable them to participate.

This in itself can be risky if they don’t really know the individual’s level of experience/inexperience.

The question could be asked ‘Can the good will of those members that do offer their time and support actually cope with the volume of new member’s?’ The days of people building up their experience in/out doors with a relative or friend before joining the club have been surpassed by the accessibility of indoor walls. Many people now come to the club, as we did, having done three sessions at Sunderland Wall, this gave us an appreciation of the basics (ie tying on and belay techniques) but not a full awareness of all the risks involved.

There are understandably different subgroups within the club, some of whom will rarely come in to contact with the needs of the newer, less experienced members which is I guess what clubs are all about, but it may be worth everyone recognising that weekend meet leaders are placed by default in the instructor role whenever new members attend their meet.

I wonder whether it would be possible to have some regular training weekends affiliated to the club? Having looked on the Ladies Scottish Climbing club’s website (who own the Milehouse where we stayed) NMC Quarterly Magazine

Training meets would enable new members to develop their skills, which has to be good from a safety perspective. New members could go on meets feeling confident that at least they have covered the basics and it would alleviate the demands on the meet leader.

I realise that there are already centres that offer such training, but is that what a club set-up is all about? Does the NMC really want to give out the message ‘sorry, go away, find out more, develop your competence and then come back when you know what you are doing?’

I think training is a topic worthy of more discussion within the NMC especially as the club membership appears to be changing. ◄

eNewsletter As you may have noticed what was last issue called the Newsletter is now called the Quarterly Magazine—this is due to the fact that Steve Orrell, who runs the NMC website (www.thenmc.org.uk), needed the Newsletter name for the software that runs the website in order to publish his monthly news update called the eNewsletter.

Steve’s new electronic-only publication will be delivered by email to all NMC members (who have provided an email address.)

The eNewletter will keep you informed about NMC news and any forthcoming events, it will also note updates to the events diary. The eNewsletter will briefly report on club meets from the previous few weeks.

So please get in touch with Steve and provide your email address if you haven’t already received a copy of the first eNewsletter by email:

March 2007

secretary@thenmc.org.uk ◄ page 12 of 22

Peter Flegg

Nobody enjoyed the 4am start driving from Newcastle to reach Leeds airport for a 7am flight to Bergamo.

Meeting up at the airport were Bryn (‘the organizer’), Lewis, Graham, Howard, Clare Morely who drove over from Borrowdale and myself, also friends Kenny, from Inverness, and Reng, from Derby. Jorge, who had lived in Newcastle nine years ago, and his friend Tony drove over from Madrid arriving in Chamonix on the evening of New Years Day just as the snow started.

The first two days were very cold and four of the group sensibly (as the weather turned out) opted to go ice climbing. The others spent large parts of the day searching for snow.

On the first day the four climbers took the short walk into Argentière and climbed the three pitch Moby Dick at La Crémerie in two teams. We had perfect ice conditions but the last pitch proved a bit tricky with a 50m rope restricting movement. Lewis also discovered just before the top that one of the bolts holding his pick in place had fallen out—the bolt was amazingly was discovered on the abseil 1.5 pitches down.

On New Years Eve the same group of four headed to Trient across the border in Switzerland. The walk into Secteur Odeyi was longer and steeper than yesterday’s walk and once again due to being restricted by other climbers our two teams of two followed the same route Label Bleu. The temperature had gone up and there was more water flowing. The lower pitches were easy but the final 5m on the top pitch was just off vertical and I found pretty testing.

NMC Quarterly Magazine

New Years Eve saw us gather in the main square just before midnight with beer and a whiskey bottle (and about 50,000 other revellers). Later that same night, and now back at the hotel, the members of the party who were still standing danced the

Pete at Argentière

Photo – Lewis Preston

Chamonix, December 2006

night away, not getting to bed until 5.30am.

Coming home from the restaurant on New Years day evening the snow started and by next morning it was already about 15cm deep on the valley floor. Everyone opted for skiing and after an aborted attempt to get to the northern end of the valley (chaos on the roads) everyone ended up skiing at Les Houches.

On the third of January Bryn, Graham and myself hired snow-shoes and took the train up to Montenvers. We spent about three hours walking back down to Chamonix (see cover photo), most of the way through virgin, knee-deep snow.

Most of the group spent the last three days skiing until their knees could take no more. This included a trip through the Mont Blanc tunnel to ski in Italy.

Graham and I went out to Argentière again. We found the frozen waterfalls were covered with 10cm of soggy ice/snow so we just bouldered with axes and crampons at the base of the climbs and practiced placing abolokovs. ◄

March 2007

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A Free Weekend in Borrowdale Steve Orrell

How good an offer is that? Well, I’m not sure how many were actually specifically motivated by that thought, none I suspect, but it seemed a good way to grab attention in the first place.

doors out of windows. There was only one ‘big job’ scheduled, the hillside and wall to the back of the kitchen but either way it was only ever going to be work on Saturday and the rest of the time was your own.

Photo - Sam Judson

I can’t speak highly enough of the guys who worked their collective backsides off to the rear of the kitchen. Everyone worked hard but It’s not yet the these guys end of March yet deserve we’ve had two special cracking meets at mention! the hut already this They must year. A few week’s have ago there were shifted at thirteen of us, and it least four was a very definite tonnes of ‘lucky 13’. rubble, and I’ve been guilty put three of voicing the of it back! thought that the Even so Lakes is an easy they had day-trip, so why completed bother staying over. their work Well, this first meet by 4:30 was the perfect p.m. on the example of why; Saturday; because things can if I hadn’t change so quickly sloped off to give an to a absolutely superb different time. This time pub I’ve around there were had gladly at least four hours bought you of constant drizzle each a on Friday night and beer— The workers at work Saturday morning perhaps was crisp, dry and next time! clear - yes D-R-Y. I couldn’t believe it. So The hut is now looking superb and is John Dal took us bushwhacking up Nitting perfect to take advantage of days like this Hawse with discretion getting the better next: part of valour over the choice of potential river-crossing points from the hut; we chose Saturday was clear, crisp and sunny all the bridge at Grange. Call us conventional day. Sunday’s forecast was for a cloudy day if you like, but there it is! but still dry. Well, as it happened Sunday This past weekend was the second meet; work-for-stay (and bacon butty). The first ’07 hut working meet had eighteen energetic bods busying around like heeowdge ants making the metaphorical NMC Quarterly Magazine

couldn’t have been better; warm, sunny and clear skies! William was abandoned to paint the hut floor - well, ok, he needed everyone out of the way to paint the floors - so teams (a) and (b) went off to Shepherd’s.

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If I can steal Sam’s [TR] from the forum:

Last but not least to the Flock In, Rosthwaite for coping so well with our huge order for bacon sarnies! Tips for the

Photo - Sam Judson

‘Those of us fortunate enough to go climbing went to Shepherds, climbing as 2 threes. Kin, Peter and Martina did one of the Brown Slabs routes, Brown Slabs Crack, followed finally by Eve. Piotr lead Brown Slabs Crack without a single knotted rope! (Apparently in Poland you can't use any metal gear, only small loops of rope with knots in are allowed!)

Bennett who did an enormous amount of work on the wall to the back of the kitchen!

To the others who all beavered away all day; Anita Porter, William Blyth, Kin Choi, Lisa Chatfield, Martina Mederiova, Modet Mazur, Naomi Chatfield, Natalia Bungay, Piotr Bamberski, Sam Judson, Sarah Follmann, Terese Mazur, Tuze Kuyucu and Zofia Bungay.

The workers at the lunch break

Myself, Sarah and Tuze did another of the Brown Slab routes, Brown Slabs Crack, followed by the very tough, very scary but thoroughly brilliant Adam. Adam must surely be the uppermost limit of the VS grade (please!)’

next time - they don’t do sausage sarnies (they never have), they don’t do crisps (never have), but they do do awesome home-made burgers in ordinary and gluten free buns. Order mid-morning for collection later to avoid disappointment!

(Hey, Younge Benge, get a look at Piotr’s (pronounced Peter) technique, that’ll get your knees a-knocking!)

Thanks everyone for your commitment and effort, it couldn’t have been a better weekend. ◄

The Roll of Honour, in alphabetical order: Special mention has to go to Albert Ritson, Malcolm Rowe, Paul Sim and Peter NMC Quarterly Magazine

March 2007

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Cornice Hangers Kin Choi

The start of the weekend didn’t bode well. I picked up my two friends at about 7pm and set off north. Almost on leaving Newcastle my car’s electrical supply suddenly cut off. It was a terrifying experience: no lights, I couldn’t signal, the engine was still running though so I managed to pull over safely into a lay-by.

Eventually we were rescued by the RAC—a battery lead had been burn through by a hot pipe—and we were back on the road to Fort William by 10.30pm. We eventually arrived at Inchree at about 5.30am.

We went skiing later that day but it was during the evening that Ben Pryke showed interest in doing a short climb or two on Aonach Mor next day.

So…we got up bright and early in the hope of catching the first Gondola up at 8 am. There was a dusting of wet snow outside the chalet door, and at the ski car park we found a thin blanket covering of snow, but snow flakes the size of cotton wool began to fall—quite a spectacle.

Annie and Ka Ho, my other friends, went off skiing and we arranged to meet about 4pm’ish. Ben and I then traced our own way to the top plateau. The going was quite tough on soft fresh powder in spindrift. We spent a while in the shelter of a ski patrol shed to discuss and fuel up before we headed towards Easy Gully on Coire an Lochain (East Face of Aonach Mor.) For ease of navigation, we just followed the last ski tow to the top, where there is a mountain rescue post (just a little hut.) We stopped, geared up and checked our bearing when suddenly two ‘troublemakers’ turned up. These two were both climbers but just out walking for the day, and they advised us to abseil down from here instead of making the longer descent down Easy Gully. They pointed to an abseil post positioned just above grade II ground in the Twins area. They had abseiled down there two days earlier and left some fresh tat and it was only a couple of pitches long.

NMC Quarterly Magazine

What we should have thought, but didn’t, was ‘Yeah but that was 2 days ago and since last night the snow has been falling heavily.’ It didn’t cross our minds, even after reading the avalanche forecast for Cat. 4.

We found the abseil post in white-out conditions. I went first as Ben had never done an abseil over a cornice before. The top crust of the cornice was quite hard perhaps due to freeze-thaw. After a few metres of slightly overhanging cornice, I was down on the top of a ramp, probably about 60/70 degrees of soft powder on a grade II gully, straight down. I spent ages searching for the anchors the two blokes mentioned—but everything was covered in thick snow. I set up anchors, then Ben came down and we pulled the knotted ropes.

The lip of the cornice was soft and during the abseil the ropes had cut into the snow and the knot soon jammed in the cornice. Now, we were sitting pretty…stuck, but we still had both ends of the two ropes hanging down so we decided to climb back up. Ben went first—he wasn’t very experienced in ice climbing, and he appeared to struggle to surmount the short stretch of cornice. My thoughts were that it can’t be that hard, it was only about 3 or 4m of slightly overhanging snow. But he continued to struggle to find purchase with his axes in the overhanging snow. He tried prussiking but found the knots jammed quite badly due to the cold and wet conditions. He eventually managed to reach the harder crust over the top with his axes and pulled himself over while I was taking a picture of his plight!

I then followed in his footsteps and traversed across to the top of gully just below the overhang. I made several attempts to climb over it, using all the good, bad and ugly skills I’d learnt over the years—but to no avail. Even by digging a metre or so into the overhang, the snow still offered no purchase for the thin-bladed axes and crampons. With hindsight, the best thing would have been a shovel, from the rescue post as Ben was already up on the

March 2007

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non-treated static nylon cords, once wet freeze under tension1.

plateau. With spindrift over my head, body getting tired and time getting on, my brain just didn’t function well. I also tried prussiking but the French prussik didn’t slide well. Next I tried a Bachmann (an autobloc with a karabiner as a handle) but this was not much better and I was still stuck below the cornice.

We had originally set off down over the cornice at about 9.30am. When Ben pulled back up over the lip, it was about 4.30pm.

During the time I was busy prussiking, my two friends rang me on my mobile. As my mobile was in my backpack, I couldn’t answer it but they kept on ringing. At about 6.30pm after a couple of hours of struggling under the cornice, I took a rest at the top of ramp and returned their call. They learnt what was happening and fortunately were with ski slope staff at the time. The staff soon realised the seriousness of the situation, took a note of my location and told me to stay put and not do anything silly and that the rescue people would be there in a couple of hours. He then accompanied my friends to the police station. I think we had probably already done something silly anyway so I just continued what I had been doing—trying to get over the cornice…

I found standing up on the leg loop in the Bachmann very difficult as my rucksack was pulling me backward. Again with hindsight I should have hung the rucksack at the end of the ropes to act as a dead weight below me and also padded the lip of the cornice at the first instance. Ben and I now decided to deploy crevasse rescue techniques—fortunately Ben had practised them before! We first tried tying overhand loops; a bit like rope ladders but the ropes dug deep into the cornice under my weight and I couldn’t grab the loops buried in the snow above me. Frustration gathered momentum as the daylight faded, energy levels sapped and spindrift whizzed down my throat. Next we tried a hoisting system but again the prussik froze—the postmortem shows that prussik loops made of

I was frustrated and knackered. I leant back to relieve some of the strain on my abs from my rucksack and hung there horizontally looking up to the sky. It was now 7.30pm in late January but there was still some light, which turned out to be the moon. I gazed at the moon and felt reassurance and warmth that I would eventually be OK. I knew if the worst came to the worst, I could still dig a snow hole under the overhang. Not nice but I’d survive.

I was hanging there for about two hours.

I was too tired to even shout and thought it better to save my energy than to battle against the roar of the wind. Suddenly, I heard someone shout at me. My mind sharpened again and I could hear the rescuer shouting, ‘Is that you?’ I replied at the top of my voice and they then simply pulled me straight over. I felt like a helpless fish caught on a hook at the end of a fishing line, just flopping over the top.

I had no energy left, not even to stand up. They carried me to a snowplough with several powerful spotlights shining at me (this was probably the first time I held the spotlight big time!) Everyone helped get my rucksack and crampons off and packed my gear up. Inside the vehicle, I had a bite of chocolate, the sugar revived my brain at once and I suddenly felt much more alert and stronger. We thought we’d missed the last gondola but we still managed to get on the ‘extra service’!

I felt embarrassed by our blunder when I told the rescuers that I was a trainee member of another rescue team! The rescue team and police were great and professional. They weren’t judgemental nor did they question our mistake. The rescuer reassured me that these things could happen to even the best climbers. They’d seen it all—the previous day, a mountain guide

1

I’d suggest mechanical devices, such as a Tibloc, are better in those conditions.

NMC Quarterly Magazine

March 2007

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had fallen off a grade VIII and ended up in hospital.

My friends on this trip are all in my other club the Christian Rock & Mountain Club. During our ordeal they prayed for us and prepared food back at the hut—I’m very grateful to them. ◄

NMC Financial Report 2005/6 John Mountain, Treasurer

The following text refers to the two tables which are shown after this report.

Income and Expenditure 1. The Account shows a healthy out-turn for the year.

The hut made a small profit, the guidebooks made over £3.5k (although obviously well down on last year), and the use of Burnside Wall produced a surplus. However: 1.1 Guidebook sales continue to prop up our finances. Over the last 6 years, the removal of the guidebook profit would have resulted in a loss for every year bar 2004-5.

1.2 Subs were down on the previous year, but Expenses rose. The main factors here were BMC costs (which continue to rise ahead of inflation) and Miscellaneous.

For Miscellaneous costs, the main difference between 05/06 and 04/05 is that for the latter, the Accounts only showed a spend of £50 on room hire for committee meetings. In 05/06, it is £200. Some of this difference is because Concordia charge more than The Plough, but I do think that in 04/05 we were not billed for all the usage we had...

1.3 The Socials programme cost slightly more than the previous year. Some Committee members have advised that, NMC Quarterly Magazine

Graham Williams at Argentière

historically, the Subs should cover the Social programme as well as Expenses.

This is logical because otherwise, you are relying on Hut and/or Guidebook profits to fund the Socials programme. Only in one of the last 6 years, has Subs covered the Socials. Average deficit over this period is £424 and for Subs to cover this sort of amount, we would need to increase subs to £24.50. If the current years figures are going to be the norm, we would need to increase Subs to £28.

2. Burnside: Good turn out at the Wall has given us a positive financial out-turn.

This could be seen as a useful subsidy for our Socials programme. We can't assume that such a profit will continue, of course.

3. Away meets: The only 'climbing' meet that lost money in 05/06 was the Milehouse

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meet which lost £20. The remaining loss was the Kendal Film weekend, which lost £99.

Bowderstone hut

4. Corporation Tax: The good news here is that my provision of £2569.70 was excessive. The actual bill was £837.12. The Auditor has suggested that even this payment was more than we should have paid, so I will be looking to claim a rebate to reduce this further, if at all possible.

Signing in Don’t forget every body must Sign in the guest book on arrival. This is a safety requirement—in the event of an emergency the fire brigade, could determine whether all guests are safe and sound.

Balance Sheet 1. Guidebooks: We sold 387 definitive guides and 117 bouldering guides in 05/06.

Note that our stock of guidebooks (over £10,000) represents about 25% of club assets. You will appreciate that the proposed Rockfax guide to the North East could have a very significant impact on the success of our 2004 definitive guidebook and ultimately reduce our assets as well as hitting our Income and Expenditure.

New fees The NMC committee has recently set new fees for staying at the hut. The new overnight fee structure is simpler than the previous method—you pay the same price whatever day of the week you stay:

2. Creditors: This amount is deposits received against Bowderstone hut bookings for 06/07.

Conclusions 1. It is likely that in future, the Club will not be able to rely so heavily on Guidebook Revenues. Quite apart from any impact of competition (eg the proposed Rockfax guide), the world is moving towards on-line guidebooks, and we have already seen details of some of ‘our’ crags being detailed on websites other than our own. If this view is accepted, then it is important that the Club’s financial security is no longer dependant on Guidebook revenues.

2. It is therefore suggested that the costs of the Social programme be brought within funding from Subscriptions. This could be achieved by upping our Subs, reducing our Expenses, or spending less on the Socials programme. Possibly a mix of all three will be needed.

3. I believe that the above issues will need to be thoroughly investigated by the new Committee, and that its proposals are tabled at the next AGM. ◄

NMC Quarterly Magazine

•

Members pay £4 per night.

•

Non-members pay £6 per night.

Hut bookings You can make bookings to stay at the hut with the hut booking secretary: Derek Cutts on 0191 268 8625 Use the club website (www.thenmc.org.uk) to check whether the hut is available on the day(s) you want to visit.

Hut key If you are visiting the hut make sure that at least one member of your party has a copy of the hut key. Derek Cutts (see above) will provide a copy of the hut key to any member on payment of a £10 deposit.

Directions to the hut Again, use the club website to find out how to get to the hut and for an explanation of parking arrangements. ◄

March 2007

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Northumbrian Mountaineering Club - Founded 1945 Income & Expenditure Account for the Year Ended 31 October 2006 2005 /2006 Subscriptions Less Expenses

Dinner

Socials

Hut

2004 District Guide

Bouldering Guide

Climbing Wall

Away Meets

Corporation Tax

2004 /2005

£ 3,325.55 President Secretary Circular Treasurer Handbook BMC Miscellaneous

£ £ 80.01 £ 775.92 £ 24.53 £ 246.61 £ 1,567.00 £ 391.00

Income Expenditure

£ 373.43 £ (366.75)

£

Income Expenditure

£ 70.00 £(1,310.00)

Income Expenditure Depreciation

£(3,085.07) £ 240.48

£ 3,561.00 £ £ 40.15 £ 735.85 £ 18.53 £ 239.00 £ 1,335.00 £ 186.97

£ (2,555.50) £ 1,005.50

£ 495.65 £ (512.43)

£

£(1,240.00)

£ £ (1,155.00)

£ (1,155.00)

£ 5,180.50 £(4,423.93) £ (487.00)

£

269.57

£ 5,089.21 £ (3,559.66) £ (487.00)

Income Expenditure

£ 4,077.72 £ (918.31)

£ 3,159.41

£16,391.17 £ (3,741.23)

£12,649.94

Income Expenditure

£ 768.69 £ (320.79)

£

447.90

£ 976.62 £ (389.33)

£

587.29

Income Expenditure

£ 3,116.85 £(2,303.00)

£

813.85

£ 1,451.10 £ (1,427.00)

£

24.10

Income Expenditure

£ 269.00 £ (388.00)

£ (119.00)

£ 270.00 £ (360.00)

£

(90.00)

rebate payment

£ 15.69 £ (837.12)

£ (821.43)

Add: Interest received Tax provision b/f Misc

6.68

(16.78)

(See Hut Co-ordinator's report) £ 1,042.55

£ 2,757.46

£14,047.60

£ 342.77 £ 2,569.70

£

£ 13.00 £ 5,682.93

(no nobler county)

287.49

£ 76.00 £14,411.09

Less: Depreciation

£ (179.00)

£

Tax Provision c/f

£

£ (2,569.70)

Balance Surplus/(Deficit) to Accumulated Fund

£ 5,503.93

NMC Quarterly Magazine

-

March 2007

(231.98)

£11,609.41

page 20 of 22

Northumbrian Mountaineering Club - Founded 1945 Balance Sheet as at 31 October 2006 2005 /2006 Assets Bowderstone Cottage (incl. Improvements) Less Depreciation Projector, Screen & Table Less Depreciation Computers Less Depreciation Warm-up Board Less Depreciation Scanner Less Depreciation Hut Dehumidifier Less Depreciation MS Office s/w Less Depreciation Digital Projector Less Depreciation

£11,505.57 £ (8,583.57) £ 248.89 £ (246.89) £ 2,269.28 £ (2,267.28) £ 250.49 £ (248.49) £ 64.61 £ (62.61) £ 204.98 £ (202.98) £ 75.00 £ (73.00) £ 536.98 £ (358.00)

Debtors Prepayments Stock of 2004 guide Stock of Bouldering Guide WIP New Bouldering Guide Cash at Bank

Financed by Accumulated Fund Balance at 31/10/2004 Surplus/Deficit for year Liabilities Creditors Key Deposits Taxation Payable

NMC Quarterly Magazine

2004 /2005

£34,801.74 £ 5,503.93

change

£ 11,505.57 £ 2,922.00 £

2.00

£

2.00

£

2.00

£

2.00

£

2.00

£

2.00

£

178.98

£ (8,096.57) £ 3,409.00 £ 248.89 £ (246.89) £ 2.00 £ 2,269.28 £ (2,267.28) £ 2.00 £ 250.49 £ (248.49) £ 2.00 £ 64.61 £ (62.61) £ 2.00 £ 204.98 £ (202.98) £ 2.00 £ 75.00 £ (73.00) £ 2.00 £ 536.98 £ (179.00) £ 357.98

£ £ 45.00 £ 8,839.36 £ 1,617.64 £ 1,000.00 £27,489.19

£ £ 20.00 £ 9,680.27 £ 1,938.43 £ £23,125.76

£42,104.17

£38,543.44

£40,305.67

£ 23,192.33 £ 11,609.41

(£487.00)

(£179.00)

£25.00 (£840.91) (£320.79) £1,000.00 £4,363.43 £ 3,560.73

£34,801.74

£5,503.93

£ 1,036.50 £ 762.00 £ -

£ 450.00 £ 722.00 £ 2,569.70

£586.50 £40.00 (£2,569.70)

£42,104.17

£38,543.44

March 2007

£ 3,560.73

page 21 of 22

Indoor climbing: •

•

Sunderland wall offers a £1 discount to NMC members off the standard entry price.

Burnside school—winter Wednesday evenings from 17.30 till 21.00. The NMC has negotiated exclusive access for NMC members. The cost is currently £4 per member. NMC climbing at Burnside will start again in October 2007.

One-off discount for NEW members Wild Tracks in the city is offering a discount to anyone joining the NMC for the first time.

In future all new members will be provided with proof of status by the membership secretary and when shown at the Wild Tracks shop will give a one-off 20% discount on climbing gear as long as more than £120 total is being spent. The discount will be off the RRP.

NMC Website The NMC has a very informative website www.thenmc.org.uk The website includes various discussion forums, a photoarchive for members climbing photos, online guides for most Northumberland crags and you can also buy from a large range of climbing books available.

NMC Guide books NMC members pay a discounted price for any guidebook published by the NMC. Currently available are the following guides: • Northumberland Bouldering Guide - £800 (RRP £11.95) • Northumberland Climbing Guide - £12.50 (£12.50) Post and packing (if required) is £1.50.

Boots for Sale.

•

Red Chilli UK Size 7.5 £10 • Sportiva UK Size 7 £10 Call/See Peter Bennett 01670 515 263

Have you got a good climbing/mountain-scenery photo to use in this space in future issues?

Please send any submissions to me at magazine@thenmc.org.uk

NMC Quarterly Magazine

March 2007

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