County climber autumn 2007

Northumbrian Mountaineering Club

Quarterly Magazine September 2007

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About the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club (NMC) The NMC is a meeting point for climbers, fell walkers and mountaineers of all abilities.

Our activities centre on rock-climbing in the summer and snow and ice climbing in the winter.

Meets are held regularly throughout the year.

The NMC is not, however a commercial organization and does NOT provide instructional courses.

NMC Meets The NMC Members’ handbook (available to all members) and the NMC website list the dates and locations of all meets.

This magazine lists the meets arranged for the next few months.

Non-members: Are always welcome to attend meets.

Note: Winter indoor meets require a minimum of prospective membership (see below) due to venue requirements for third party insurance.

Membership Details Members are Prospective until they fulfill the conditions for Full Membership (see membership form.) Full membership is valid for one year from the end of February. Prospective membership expires at the end of March each year.

Membership gets you: • Copy of the quarterly magazine.

NMC Quarterly Magazine

• •

BMC Public Liability Insurance for climbing incidents.

Discounted NMC guide books.

Discounted entry at certain indoor climbing walls.

Access to the extensive NMC library

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Join the NMC Download a Membership form from: www.thenmc.org.uk Send the signed and completed membership form with a cheque made out to the NMC for the membership fee (see below) to the Membership Secretary at the address shown on the membership form.

Membership Fees •Full £22 •Prospective £10.00

Quarterly Magazine Contributions to this magazine are always welcome - photos are especially welcome.

Send Contributions to: magazine@thenmc.org.uk

Get this Magazine FASTER If you received this magazine as a paper copy, you may be interested to learn that you can get it a lot faster and in colour as a free download from our website.

To arrange for email notification that the latest issue of the magazine is ready for you to download, contact the membership secretary at: secretary@thenmc.org.uk

September 2007

Committee 2007/2008 President – Peter Bennett Vice Pres. – Malcolm Rowe Secretary – Steve Orrell Treasurer – John Mountain Membership – Steve Orrell Access - Bill Renshaw Hut co-ord. – Neil Cranston Hut bookings – Derek Cutts Magazine ed. – Peter Flegg Social Sec – Carolyn Horrocks Librarian – Bryn Roberts Guide books – John Earl General: Steve Nagy, Martin Waugh, Richard Pow, Sam Judson & John Dalrymple.

As an affiliate to the BMC, the NMC endorses the following participation statement: The BMC recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death.

Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.

Copyright The contents of this magazine are copyright and may not be reproduced without permission of the NMC. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the editor or the NMC.

Photos Unless otherwise stated all photos in this issue were taken by the author of the article.

Cover Shot Climber on problem 12 (B3 5C) at Shaftoe’s Areteland Photo by John Dalrymple

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What’s in this issue?

NMC annual dinner Weekend meets ........................................ 4 Wednesday evening meets ..................... 5 Skye, May Bank Holiday ‘07 ................... 6 Integrity..................................................... 7 Attack of the Killer Bees? ..................... 9 Glencoe chicken dinner.......................... 10 Beginners information ........................... 11 Over the sea to Hoy .............................. 15 January’s AGM ........................................ 18 Committee Matters................................ 19 Carbon bootprints? ................................ 20 Yorkshire Limestone.............................. 21 Introduction to Lead Climbing ............ 22

It’s time to put on your glad rags and head to Borrowdale for the club’s Annual Dinner, being held on Saturday 13 October 2007 at the Borrowdale Hotel.

The dinner is a major social event in the club’s calendar, and with so many new members let’s make it extra-special this year!

You can expect wonderful food in a great setting. A 6 course table d’hote menu costing £24.45 per person.

The club has now been going back to the same place for at least the last 7 years as it is always so good!

So contact Peter Bennett pronto on

Editor’s news Peter Flegg

At one stage I thought this issue was going to be cheap to print as by early September there had only been 2 articles submitted.

01670 515 263 bennettvp@talktalk.net The club’s hut is reserved for members that weekend. Accommodation is also available at the hotel itself and should be booked directly with them:

A final flurry of last minute incoming articles has meant mad panic work for me in order to meet (well just miss) my own deadline for the issue—but I do at least have one article spare for the next issue.

01768 777 224

Obviously part of the problem has been my tennis elbow—that is, I haven’t been able to get out on Wednesday nights so that I could hassle YOU directly and get you writing!

BUT in future please don’t be shy about writing articles for YOUR club magazine.

If you have been out climbing then you already have something to write about— why not tell the rest of us about your experiences on the rock? ◄

NMC Quarterly Magazine

Wildtrak discount week Monday 12 November to Saturday 17 November 2007 Wildtrak are offering members an amazing 20% off the RRP for most items in their shop.

This is a special annual Wildtrak event available ONLY to NMC members

September 2007

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Weekend meets

for 12 lucky people—this is certainly not a 'hut'! It is an excellent base for winter activities in the N. Cairngorms, the most reliable early season venue for snow and ice. Scope for ski-ing and boarding and feasible to visit some of the spectacular mountainous areas to the north west in a day. Bookings ASAP. Martin Cooper 0191 252 5707

The following list shows all weekend climbing/social meets currently arranged.

You MUST contact the meet leader in advance, as accommodation may be limited or already fully booked.

Note: A deposit may be required to reserve your place on a weekend trip. ◄ Sunday 30 Sep 07

Wainstones, North Yorkshire, Special event for NEW MEMBERS—climb and meet other new members and even some of the old hands.

Steve Orrell 07792 518 934

Saturday 13 Oct 07

Annual dinner, Borrowdale Peter Bennett 01670 515 263 See box on page 3 for more details.

Saturday 20 Oct 07

MTB meet—Steve Nagy 01665 570 141

Fri-Sun 16-18 Nov 07

Kendal Mountain Film Fest See box on page 18 for more details.

Sunday 2 Dec 07

President’s Walk— Destination: somewhere in the Cheviots. Bring some lunch and a flask.

Peter Bennett 01670 515 263

Saturday 15 Dec 07

Christmas gathering—meet for a drink on the quayside before moving on for a meal in a nearby restaurant.

Steve Orrell 01670714 782

Fri-Sun 18-20 Jan 08

Black Rock cottage—located in Glencoe below Buchaille Etive Mor. Convenient for Munro bagging and if lucky for snow and ice routes. Only about 12 places so book early.

Peter Bennett 01670 515 263

Saturday 27 Jan 08

Wainstones, North Yorkshire —rock climbing, just turn up.

Friday 8 Feb 08

Ceilidh—A fun get-together in a pub where you can show off your dancing skills. Carolyn Horrocks 07817 833 420

Fri-Sun 15-17 Feb 08

Karn House, Aviemore—Fell & Rock Hut has been booked

NMC Quarterly Magazine

23 Feb - 1 Mar 08

Costa Blanc—rock climbing in the winter sun, interested??

Contact Steve Orrell NOW we need to book soon to get the cheap airfares 07792 518 934

Fri-Sun 7-9 Mar 08

Kincraig—The Milehouse is ca. 5 miles S. of Aviemore, well placed for the N. Cairngorms or Craig Meggie.

An excellent Hut which we have been booking for Winter Meets for many years now.

Malcolm Rowe, 0191 236 6648

15-24 Mar 08

Rjukan, Norway—Ice climbing trip. From roadside single-pitch to full on multipitch mountain routes. Latest details on the forum: www.thenmc.org/forum/554.ht ml Kin Choi 0191 441 2263

Fri-Sun 28-30 Mar 08

Fort William—14 places booked in the Bank Street Lodge, right in the centre of Fort William—perfect for after climbing socials!!

Cost is a meager £13.50 a night and the kitchen is open any time! (unlike the farce last year.)

In March the Ben should be wall-to-wall ice so sharpen your tools.

I can probably get extra spaces—so don't be boring and wait until the last minute, BOOK NOW! Lots to do whatever the weather, it’s always a riot!

September 2007

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You never know if you talk to me nicely I might even do some winter skills for free for those who want or need it.

Tim Catterall, 07704 614 814

Wednesday evening meets Outdoors There are just a couple more outdoor meets this season. No need to call any one—just turn up with all your own equipment.

The NMC website has crag location details (www.thenmc.org.uk) and also check it for indoor wall alternatives if weather is not good. Meet afterwards in the pub shown in italics. ◄ 26 Sept 07

Rothley, Dyke Neuk

03 Oct 07

Shaftoe

start at 20.30 after the Wednesday evening climbing.

Don't forget we've special dispensation to bring a carry-out (can/bottle) in with us—just as long as we do carry it out afterwards. ◄ 31 Oct 07

Anne Arran—is a former British Climbing Champion and one of Britain’s most talented climbers. Anne's enthusiasm for hard and beautiful climbing is enormous.

14 Nov 07

Nick Bullock famous for his gnarly alpine-style ascents, made in various countries around the world

28 Nov 08

Members slides—bring in a few slides to show of your summer climbing activities.

12 Dec 08

Christmas Quiz by Barry Imerson—your chance to test your climbing and general knowledge skills. Competing in small teams with a prize for the winning team—this is always a fun event.

16 Jan 08

Alastair Lee—prepare for laughter as the climbing film maker, photographer and performer—is back again. His films have won awards in several countries including at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival.

23 Jan 08

AGM—committee members provide feedback on their tasks and future issues, and a new committee is elected. It's your club so come along and have your say!

20 Feb 08

Guest speaker—yet to be arranged.

5 Mar 08

Members’ slides—bring in a few slides to show of your winter climbing activities.

Indoors The nights are closing in and our Wednesday evening indoor meets will start from 3 Oct 07, at the excellent wall at Burnside Community College in Wallsend.

The club has the wall booked exclusively for NMC members and it’s a great venue for us. Bring all your own equipment.

Interested in joining the NMC?—then come along on one these nights and have a chat with Steve Orrell (the membership sec.)

The wall is available from 18.00 to 21.00 after which ‘beeyor is quaffed’ in the Shiremoor House Farm Pub. ◄

Guest speakers etc Our winter series of guest speakers have been arranged this year by Carolyn Horrocks (the social sec.) These are held in the lecture theatre in Burnside School and

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September 2007

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Skye, May Bank Holiday ‘07 Bryn Roberts

The late May weekend has become a popular fixture in the club calendar in recent years, with some very well-attended meets on remote campsites in the far north west of Scotland. Gairloch, Ullapool and Lochinver have all seen a motley NMC crew—tents, tarps, BBQs and all—descend on the coast, and climb sea cliffs, stacks and mountain routes in that wonderful part of the country.

moving together, Alpine style, is the order of the day. We were, however, rewarded with dry rock and soloed technically straightforward, but fairly exposed ground over four major pinnacles to reach the summit, the rope only coming out to abseil off the third pinnacle which otherwise demands a very steep down-climb.

For me, in a year when a bad back has severely curtailed climbing activity, just

And so it was that this year’s venue shifted to the Sligachan campsite on the Isle of Skye, which hadn’t seen an NMC meet for many years. The island is best known amongst climbers for the classic climbs and scrambles on the Bryn on Jamie Jampot (VS) gabbro of the Cuillin hills; in feeling the rough gabbro on my hands, and recent years, however, the brilliant coastal taking in the panoramic view as it unfolded venues around Kilt Rock and Niest Point was a major bonus. have become better known, and further sea cliffs elsewhere on the island provide a low From the summit we looked along the level alternative in wild and beautiful entire Cuillin Ridge and across to Blaven locations, as we were to discover. and Clach Glas, took in the islands of the Inner and Outer Hebrides and, to the east, Was it the distance, the weather prospect the mountains of Knoydart, Torridon and or the ‘alternative’ Lakes meet? but a group beyond. Elsewhere, Nick (the enigmatic depleted in number if not in quality finally one) and Ian (the ‘international man of gathered at the Slig early Saturday evening. mystery’) had climbed on ‘sun-kissed rock’ John, Amanda, Kenny and I having fitted in (to quote Nick) in Coir a’ Ghrunnda, and, an excellent walk in the hills of whilst I’m never quite sure whether to Achnachellach en route. believe Nick, he was smiling a lot so he Sunday brought a keen breeze but fairly must have had a good day. As for Clare and clear skies, so a scramble up Pinnacle Tim, they had abandoned us and their Wild Ridge on Sgurr nan Gillean was planned.

Country ‘palace’ for a backpack up Glen The route gets a climbing grade of Diff and Sligachan to Loch Coruisk to camp out and is classic mountaineering territory—in be in position to do the Dubhs Ridge the some conditions a rope is advisable and next day.

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September 2007

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Monday saw a team head for ‘new’ territory on the coast near Elgol. We wanted to explore the sea cliff of Suidhe Biorach (pronunciation?!!) which is situated half a mile south of the village at the end of the peninsular, southwest facing with fine views out to the island of Rhum. After a photo session on Elgol beach with classic views of the whole Cuillin Ridge across Loch Scavaig, I wandered along the cliff tops to find the team well established and enthusing about the Mediterranean conditions. I abseiled out of the northerly wind, down into a sun trap near sea level, where an easy traverse above an azure sea revealed the full range of possible lines on the cliff.

Integrity Graham Williams

The day had not started well. I had dithered about the best line up through the scree to the base of Sron na Ciche and the effects of a heavy overnight shower were obvious with dark wet streaks running down the face. Tim and Ian shook their heads muttering that it was not as dry as the day before. A team of three was already uncoiling ropes at the start of Cioch West, the route I hoped was our way onto the upper tier. The Direct I had done before and looked wet. Petronella seemed to be the

The obvious corner lines offer the easier climbs, between Severe and VS and these were duly dispatched throughout the afternoon, the highlight for me being the clean VS corner line of Jamie Jampot.

Numerous harder routes in the E1-E3 range are to be found on the walls and arêtes, and await a stronger NMC team! The rock is quartzite sandstone, generally of good quality, and this Reng following up on the second pitch new ‘find’ is a highly best bet but I struggled to follow Nick up recommended alternative to the mountain the wide flake that forms the first pitch. It routes of the Cuillin. Meanwhile, Tim and seemed a thrutch, Í couldn’t see how to Clare had completed their ‘project’ with a layaway off the flake and ended up fine day on the Dubhs Ridge and a boat out grovelling ungracefully to the belay. Reng to Elgol, and Bill Renshaw had also been led the next pitch over a small overhang. spotted and was cursing not bringing his Nick had done Integrity before and climbing gear. Next time, Bill!! scrambled off to find Ian and Tim. It was too good to last… on Tuesday We traversed into Eastern Gully and I Skye weather reverted to type and by thought I had found the correct ledge Wednesday people where starting to head leading out to below Arrow Route but we south. Those who stayed on, however struggled to make features fit before I where rewarded with improved weather and eventually had to swallow my pride and more climbing on the major face of Sron na admit that I had taken a ledge system too Ciche, above Glen Brittle. Graham now low. I led a slabby wet crack system to the takes up the story. ◄ ledge below the Cioch, glad to get moving NMC Quarterly Magazine

September 2007

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again and have that feeling of leading out on rock. We then debated about the correct line of Arrow route. I led out on an obvious diagonal line to the best belay I could arrange. Reng led out to the top, I abandoned the belay to give him enough rope to make the finishing move.

The sun was out by now and the heat was reflecting off the rock and I was feeling hopelessly over dressed. However, there was no one else queuing for Integrity and no excuses. I had been in exactly the same spot almost exactly 20 years before but with other parties lining up to do the route so we had chosen to wander further right and done an easier route to the top. This time the only other party around was a guide taking his clients onto the Cioch. I sorted out the rack and started up the first pitch. I didn’t start well and I dropped a set of wires. I tied myself off to a hex whilst Reng retrieved then.

Pulling onto the main slab over a small overhang was the next hurdle. At that point I was committed, out of sight of Reng and the enormity of what I had taken on seemed oppressive. Above an intimidating crack line splits a steep slab and below is the exposure from the several hundred feet of that rock beneath. It seemed unlikely to me that any route at only Hard Severe could take this line. At first my confidence stuttered. I placed runners and rushed up to place another. The pitch seemed so long but I pressed on.

Imperceptibly my confidence grew. At some point I started to think less about placing runners and started to enjoy the climbing. There are rough dimples on the slab for the feet that I used rather than trying to wedge my feet in the crack. The final part of the pitch follows a shallow corner. I reached the final little overhang about 35m up the pitch and placed a runner.

It looked great. In truth it was no better or worse than those I placed at the start of the pitch but now I was in full flow. I found good hand holds, got a foot up over the overlap and stood up. The rock here was dry and full of grippy friction. A couple NMC Quarterly Magazine

more moves lead to a niche and the belay.

A sling quickly wrapped around a spike formed the first belay point. I looked down the 40m of rock that forms the pitch and then further down to the floor of the corrie and shouted ‘safe’.

I could see the top of Reng’s grey helmet merge over the top of the overhang at the bottom of the pitch. There was a pause before he got himself established onto the slab. I’m glad it gave him pause for thought; there is nothing worse than having your second cruise the bit you found hard.

He arrived grinning at the belay and then made short work of the next pitch taking it direct to the top.

We scrambled up a ramp to the top and sat on a couple of rocks about 10 metres apart. There was no wind and the sun was low in the sky. The Inaccessible Pinnacle, T-D gap and the Isle of Rhum were all starting to take on a red tinge. Eventually we pulled on our trainers and set off to find the start of the Sgumain Stone Chute and the long descent. ◄

Mountaineering research NMC member Barry Imeson (famous for his annual NMC Christmas Climbing quiz) has offered to make his large collection of books and journals accessible to club members carrying out research into mountaineering and its literature.

So before you make the long journey to the Alpine Club in London first give Barry a call who will be able to advise you if he holds any material that might be useful to you in your researches— just give him a ring beforehand, to arrange a suitable time to visit, on 01434 240 405

September 2007

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Attack of the Killer Bees Steve Orrell

The other Wednesday we turned out for the club meet at Bowden Doors. The day was warm and sunny, bit of a blustery breeze from the Nor ‘east, with some occasional chill in it, but not bad. The turnout was good.

PeterB and his band of merry men have had it sussed out since lunch-time, catching some rays in between routes. Everyone else piled up as their time allowed and I think we had the crag to ourselves. Well, there seemed to be no other climbers there but we were definitely not alone!

In several locations there were a lot, some say hundreds, of wasps or bees; the consensus was that they were ‘sand wasps or something’. Around small pockets of burrows in the exposed soil at the foot of the crag were clouds of bees. As bees they turned out to be, doing un-bee like things… like, er… just milling around.

If you’re apiphobic then I’m sorry, as things are going to get a whole lot worse for you because I have to say that these things were really cute and you should have been there just to see them! They paid not one jot of attention to any of the climbers and the only reaction I got when I lay on the ground to photograph them was they moved away—you know, buzzed off!

As is my wont, I found it fascinating and managed to take some photos, but I was still puzzled as to the why’s and wherefore’s and whether they were bees or wasps? Later a post in our forum suggested a species of mining bee, but confusion still reigned.

The folks (read experts) at wildaboutbritain.co.uk gave me an answer and an insight after I posted a question and some pics.

what girls the world over do—playing hard to get.

Colletes succintus has no common name.

It’s a solitary bee that lives in dense aggregations (isn’t that a contradiction?) and it’s entirely dependent upon the pollen of Calluna vulgaris (heather)—which has just started flowering. The male bees were hanging around waiting for the emergence of the females from their burrows... and the girls were, of course, being ‘fashionably late’!!

The presence of this species of bee is not logged in Northumberland and this sighting has been added to the national dataset. (See www.searchnbn.net/) ◄

NMC hut at Bowderstone Check out the NMC website for hut availability. Make bookings for the hut with Derek Cutts on 0191 268 8625 derek@cuttsd.fsnet.co.uk

Apparently they were boy bees, doing what boys the world over do around girls, and in this case, the girl bees were doing

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September 2007

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Glencoe chicken dinner Alison Jones

And so I found myself one Friday evening on my first NMC winter meet in Glencoe with a roast chicken dinner ready to be cooked for the Saturday night.

I was totally unprepared and totally inexperienced, and I have to admit to being nowhere near fit enough—I was used to single-pitch rock climbing where I left my pack at the bottom of the crag and not used to hauling it up a steep hill in snow.

Bryn Roberts suggested Stob Corrie Nam Beth close to Black Rock Cottage and we set off with Steve Nagy and Dave Siddle. I was incredibly slow and soon discovered how easy it was to lose people in the snow, they just became dots and could have been anybody. I even made the mistake of following the wrong people at one point! Eventually we reached the crag.

The actual climbing was amazing. There was more snow than ice and it was often difficult to distinguish between turf and rock. I was so unprepared that Bryn had to give me on-the-spot tuition in using iceaxes! I loved the pitches we completed but unfortunately we didn’t quite make it to the top.

We were running out of daylight so Bryn decided it was time to start the abseil descent. My belay plate has a locking mechanism which annoyingly kept locking and slowed us down. Dave took a fall on the way but luckily he was not injured. It was now getting late—and it was starting to look like my chicken dinner would become a late night supper.

I was painfully slow descending, and I am sure extremely irritating to both Bryn and Dave—although they were both very gracious about it all—Bryn came up with one of his typical classics ‘Come on! I’m thinking of food, the pub and bed in that order.’ We once lost the path, I also fell a few times and then found out how hard it was to get back up while simultaneously keeping the pack on my back. We also lost NMC Quarterly Magazine

time because I had to stop to drink from the bottle I carried in my pack—I should have had a water bladder.

The idea of the roast chicken dinner got progressively postponed. Jon Trafford, Tim Hakim and Adrian Heath eventually came out to rescue us—or more to the point relieve Bryn from the strain of trying to keep me upright and moving. Tim used a special mountain rescue technique which involved walking behind me with a sling around me (just like a child!) which really helped to give me confidence for the last 30 minutes. I would like to thank Bryn, Dave and the 3 rescuers for managing to make me laugh in this dire situation.

We eventually got safely back to the hut at 2am. On the Sunday we went to the Ice Factor in Kinnockleven—thankfully there was no possibility here of a long walk out in the dark! We finally had that roast chicken dinner later on the Sunday. The only other thing that needed to be dealt with was of course the matter of my reputation as a winter mountaineer now being in ruins!

So what makes a 40 year old woman want to go on a winter climbing trip? I guess it was the temptation of taking another step up from the small amount of outdoor rock climbing that I had done.

Foolishly I had no prior idea about the level of fitness required for winter climbing— and believe me you really need to be fit! So now I have a dilemma—I really do like winter climbing, but in the UK this always means a long uphill slog just to get to the start of the climb proper, yet I don’t want to be caught out coming down in the dark like that again!

I will remember this trip for the rest of my life, obviously for being the slow one (and creating an epic) but also because I can honestly say I did it. I hope I will still be talking about this first trip to Glencoe even when I am a very old woman—it has given me a newfound love for Scotland and I hope it will not be my last visit to the very atmospheric Black Rock Cottage. ◄

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Beginners information

•

This section continues the information for newcomers to climbing that we started in the last issue of this magazine.

It might also be instructional to view:

1) Suggested reading Trevor Langhorne writes—There are many good sources of climbing information available both online and in book format: Online Beginners may find it useful to take a look at the following online guides: www.needlesports.com/advice/basic climbing.htm www.wildcountry.co.uk/ Downloads/Catalogues/Ca mBook/

Learning to Rock Climb, 1981, Loughman, pub. Sierra Club, pub.

Chockstone Press, ISBN 0-87156281-2

•

Mountaineering (1965-1970), Blackshaw, pub. Penguin pre-dates ISBN numbers. A good look at how to climb with minimal equipment!

There are numerous other books out there, have a look in your local library— sadly the NMC Library does not appear to have any technical instruction books.

Obviously books cannot substitute for real activity but you can get an idea about

www.wildcountry.co.uk/ HintsandTips/Understandin gCams/ Books Newcomers could do some serious reading and teach themselves basic knots etc by reading classic texts such as: •

The complete Guide to Rope Techniques, 2003, Nigel Shepherd, pub.

Constable. ISBN 184119-323-2

•

Advanced Rock Climbing, 1997, Long & Luebben, pub. Chockstone Press, ISBN 157540-075-8

•

Climbing Anchors, 1993, Long, pub.

Chockstone Press, ISBN 0-934641-374

Jon Trafford on Double Trouble, MVS at Goats Crag Photo by Graham Williams

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what you should be doing from them. This will accelerate progress in the learning-bydoing stage.

Alastair Mitchell suggests— •

Rock Climbing - Essential Skills and Techniques, by Libby Peter.

ISBN number 0954151119

•

The Mountain Skills Training Handbook, by Peter Hill—this is a well regarded book that covers general mountaineering as well as rock climbing. ◄

Training Over the winter there may be more courses on the lines of Richard Pow’s recent ‘Learning to Lead’ courses: Winter Mountaineering/Climbing Skills—over a weekend in Scotland to get the best of the conditions.

Andy Earl trad/bouldering Workshops— done as a series of short sessions over a period of weeks for several sessions.

Nothing is organised yet, it all depends on the interest shown. Cost will depend on how many people actually sign up— the more people the cheaper it will be.

Course content can be determined by the participants, eg general winter skills or ice climbing; bouldering or overall skills.

To stand any chance of getting these courses off the ground I need to know if anyone is interested. So email me NOW on: secretary@thenmc.org.uk

NMC Quarterly Magazine

2) Ethics Richard Pow writes—A few words on ethics. Ground up on-sight is what you should be aiming for with trad climbing.

But as climbers reach the technical limit of their ability, or limit of their bravery in the case of routes with a high risk of a groundfall bringing serious injury, practising a route on a top-rope, brushing dirty holds and possibly pre-placing one or more runners before a ground up lead (headpointing) is increasingly practiced.

Headpointing is, however, usually reserved for hard routes (E3 plus and mostly E6 plus) and even then mainly restricted to routes with really poor gear. It might be frowned upon if used for easy or very safe routes. In the main the preferred tactic with hard safe routes is to wait until you have the ability to make a ground up on-sight attempt.

To keep an ascent truly on-sight get your mate to give the route a brush if it needs one. (This contrasts with sport climbing ethics where lots of practice before a redpoint ascent is commonplace—although never as prized as on-sight).

Just one other important thing to say re ethics and that is that any brushing of Northumberland sandstone must be limited to the use of soft brushes to clean the holds to be used on a route/problem. Anything more than this is unacceptable given the soft nature of the rock and risk of permanent damage to it. ◄

3) Buying climbing gear Suggestions from Peter Flegg, Trevor Langhorne and Alastair Mitchell have been combined in this section about the order of purchase of climbing equipment.

Buying all the equipment required for lead climbing is a costly business—it is therefore best (unless you have wads of unnecessary cash) to start with the basic equipment required for seconding and then later, as you gain experience and want to

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start lead-climbing, progress onto purchasing the equipment needed to lead climb.

what size pack do you need?—experienced climbers will tell you that they have several packs in various sizes for use according to the destination route or crag etc.

Minimum equipment for seconding: Additional equipment for leading:

•

Boots—see note below.

•

Harness—choose one with loops for holding gear.

•

Helmet.

•

Belay device with dedicated screwgate

•

HMS krab designed specifically for use in belaying. Note: the belay device needs to be suitable for the diameter of the rope you are climbing with.

Nut tool/Nut key—to help in removing protection placed by the leader. Carry this on a loop of cord and put your hand through the loop when you use it so you can’t drop it.

•

Slings—2x 1m, for tying in at the belay.

•

Locking krab—2x, for tying in at the

The following list is only required for lead climbing. It is not suggested that you rush out and buy everything in one go, but rather the equipment be purchased bit by bit, over a period of time, and only after you have learnt to use the equipment correctly.

Note—you could of course team up with a friend and purchase alternative bits from the list to help spread the cost.

•

Rope—60m x10mm and 50m x8.5mm

•

Quickdraws/extenders—you’ll need about 8 to10 of these. Get some of the

belay.

ropes are the norm. The 60m rope can also be used doubled so you get 30m which is enough for most routes in the lakes.

short 20cm loop length, of the open loop design, rather than the stiff stitched through variety (these are fine for bolts Note on boots—a first pair of rock shoes but too stiff to act should be as a rope supportive and movement not too tight, REMEMBER buffer—which is shops have a Just because you own a piece of the whole point of habit of trying to equipment doesn’t make you an expert the quickdraw!). sell one or two Also get a couple in it’s use—always take the time to sizes below your of 30cm loops learn the correct, safe use and normal shoe size and some tripledand slipper styles limitations of all the climbing equipment up 60cm slings. that are more you use and/or buy.

Go for the new expensive (ie Learn by reading the instructions lightweight wirehigher profit). provided with the equipment, reading gate krabs if Weak feet relevant books and online guides and possible. muscles need a also by listening to the experienced bit of help at first, • Set of wires/nuts— users you climb with. so get the eg Rocks 1-11, with cripplers when duplicates of Rocks 3Never be afraid to ask another you can take 9. Carry a mixture of experienced climber for advice. advantage of the sizes, about 5 or 6 per additional krab—ie in the performance they inevitable fumble offer! when you drop a bunch of wires you then

•

Chalk bag—optional.

Don’t forget you are also going to need a backpack to carry all this equipment in. But NMC Quarterly Magazine

don’t loose all your large (or all your small) sizes in one go!

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•

•

•

• • •

Set of hexes—start with sizes larger

Set of mid-range cams—sizes 1-3.

than your largest wire eg Rockcentrics 58. Choose tape rather than wire, and carry about 3 hexes per krab.

See warning box below.

•

Small sized cams.

Slings—2x 1.2m and 2x 0.6m with non-

•

Large sized cams. ◄

screwgate crabs. Note: although screwgate crabs are safest for clipping in at the belay, the screw can often get in the way or the krab will move after you have got the rope in and this prevents proper gate closure—a very serious situation!

Warning Camming devices are not recommended for novices as they can give an illusion of safety.

Locking krabs—x3, you’ll need these extra screwgate krabs for setting up anchors.

Prussic loops—for use in abseiling or problem solving.

Nylon tape/old rope—that can be left behind in the event of emergency abseil.

Guidebook holder—to carry the guidebook on a multipitch route.

Cam are an unpredictable and technical tool which are prone to come out of even apparently bomber placements as they rely solely on friction.

Cams are appropriate when you have first learned to use the other gear safely.

Preparing to climb the Souter sea stack Photo by Kin Choi

NMC Quarterly Magazine

September 2007

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Over the sea to Hoy Stephen Porteus

Prologue I wrote this article back in 1998, which is when the ‘action’ took place. It was intended for the NMC publication then, but I was upstaged when Rick Barnes and Chris Davis made their way to Hoy a few months later and published a far superior article.

This article has lain dormant on the computer ever since. Here it is, warts and all.

The Old Man of Hoy I bought a copy of ‘Hard Rock’ as soon as it was published. I have always had a weakness for picture books and the photos were stunning and inspiring. I quickly realised that to tick all of the routes was beyond me though somehow the Scottish routes seemed more attainable. There is no logic behind this, apart from geographical convenience and an overwhelming liking for the often wet and midge infested place.

The first route to be ticked off was South Ridge Direct on Arran, a soft touch for an aspiring crack climber. Dragon and Gob at Carnmore followed on another NMC Whit Meet. Then, in 1976, I enlisted Bob Hutchinson, a much stronger and better climber than me to have a major session; further achievements were sporadic and restricted to NMC Whit weekend meets.

Swastika on the Etive Slabs was climbed in a hung-over state following a late session in the Kingshouse Hotel. Carnivore was climbed with Malcolm Lowerson, the adrenaline rush of the first pitch almost matching that of the high-speed drive in his Astra GTE the previous night. Then things came to a halt for several years.

In the summer of 1998 (much like that of 2007) there were many wet Wednesdays, which were frustrating, as they were my main contact with climbing, and the Club.

However, one evening at Kyloe was perfect and thanks to young Tim, (now less young!) I renewed my acquaintance with Coldstream Corner. Tim had been abandoned by Frances and had to have a lift NMC Quarterly Magazine

to the Black Swan at Belford. On the brief journey we began to talk about sea cliffs, stacks and that sort of thing and the subject blossomed into the Old Man of Hoy. It had always been on the list, of course, and Tim was very enthusiastic. When I got home I switched on the computer, on the pretext of checking the Emails and then drifted onto the World Wide Web to begin research. The P&O site gave ferry timetables and I began to realise that with careful planning it was possible to get to Hoy and back within a weekend.

A mutually convenient weekend was agreed and the logistical planning began.

Tim was working in Edinburgh on a summer vacation job and I collected him from his digs at about 5.30pm, Friday. We headed for the Forth Bridge and almost immediately hit an enormous traffic jam on the By-Pass and the prospects of reaching the Hostel at Thurso before 11.00 seemed remote. Luckily the traffic was light after we passed Perth and we were able to maintain a high, and probably illegal, average speed. Quite what any self respecting member of the Highland Constabulary would have thought, if he'd spied Tim sitting in the back, calmly sorting the racks, at speeds of 100 plus, we'll fortunately never know but we arrived at Thurso at about 11.05 to find that the front door of the Hostel remained unlocked.

We rose at 5.30 as we had to catch the ferry to Orkney Mainland at 6.30. We almost abandoned the trip when we reached the harbour at Scrabste, as the heavy overnight rain had continued and the view across the Pentland Firth to Hoy was bleak and grey. We decided that the best plan was to get on the ferry and get committed and by the time we were sailing past the Old Man the cloud seemed to be lifting. There are probably no other routes in Britain which you view from the ferry on your approach but the Old Man seemed to dominate the view from the boat for most of the trip even though it is completely dwarfed by the awesome cliff of St John's Head, the third highest sea cliff in the British Isles.

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We arrived in Stromness at about 8.00 and had to wait until 9.30 for the connecting ferry to Hoy. When we boarded we noticed two other passengers with sacs and ropes. They could only have one objective. Damn! We told them that we were hoping to catch the 6.30 ferry back from Hoy to Stromness and they magnanimously agreed that we should go first. We caught a taxi from the ferry landing to the tiny crofting community of Rackwick from where it is an easy 45minute walk to the Old Man. We had been walking for no more than ten minutes when it began to rain, with the relentless intensity for which Scotland is famed.

Waterproofs were donned and we plodded on, descending a perilous exposed path to the foot of the Old Man. We cowered in a shallow cave for about 30 minutes trying to convince ourselves that the crux pitch was dry. The arrival of the other team spurred us into action and despite my distaste for wet rock I volunteered to lead the first pitch which was wet, green and greasy.

The next pitch was still damp and Tim decided to avoid an unpleasant greasy corner by climbing a steep, awkward wall to the right.

Fortunately he placed a bomber Friend in a horizontal break which provided an unofficial handhold for me when I came to second it.

Tim set off boldly across the traverse, which leads to the foot of the crux crack.

He moved quickly and efficiently up the pitch and I assumed that it was, as we had hoped, dry. It wasn't and when I came to NMC Quarterly Magazine

second it I was impressed. There was nothing desperate it just seemed to go on and on. The next pitch was easy but wet and occupied by a few Fulmars, one of whom seemed to threaten my manhood as I bridged tentatively past. My sensitivity about this overcame ethical considerations so I removed a bunch of wires from my harness and gave the threatening bird a fairly forceful thwack. It flew away to reveal an almost pretty chick. Guilt overcame me immediately but when Tim later arrived at the stance he assured me that the mother had returned to the nest.

The final pitch was magnificent; Northumberlan d VS in the sky. Perfect jams, good protection and by now the weather was excellent. I arrived at the top exhilarated and while belaying, noticed a friendly Puffin looking cheerfully towards me from about 3 feet away. Tim followed the pitch quickly and stepped up on to the high point of the stack a few feet away to record our ascent in the visitors

September 2007

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book which he found hidden in a small biscuit tin. We lingered for a while on the top then set up the first abseil. We descended uneventfully, passing our companions grappling with the still slimy pleasures of the fourth pitch. The diagonal abseil down the crux pitch was exciting but we soon reached the causeway back to the mainland and our sacks.

We had lost all track of the time, but had still clung on to the vague hope that we could catch the ferry back to Stromness, which would have given the possibility of a route on the way back on Sunday. However upon checking our watches we realised that this was not to be. The last ferry was at 6.30pm and it was now 7.00. We walked back up the steep track and back to Rackwick. We phoned for a taxi to take us back to the East side of Hoy. There is a very pleasant Youth Hostel there and we installed ourselves, showered even, and ate pasta.

It was only 10.00pm so we decided to do what all climbers do on a Saturday night and walked down to the Hoy Inn. This was a splendid place and we didn't ever feel that we were in danger of being hoyed oot even when we eventually left at 2.00am. We drank excellent Orkney Ale, fine Malt and played pool with a delightful local character called Jimmy (True!). He absolutely thrashed us. We expressed some surprise at the flexibility of the Licensing Laws on the island. Jimmy told us that the local policeman had just arrived on the island, didn't want to upset anyone and had a very pretty blonde wife to keep him warm at night!

Next morning we walked the mile or so down to the ferry and crossed over to Stromness. We arrived at about 10.30 and had to wait until 3.30 for the ferry to the mainland. We passed the time wandering through the town and looking around the very interesting little museum.

We arrived back in Scrabster at 5.00 and had a pleasantly quick drive back. After dropping Tim back in Edinburgh, I was NMC Quarterly Magazine

home by 10.50, just a little late to dash to the Feathers Inn for a pint.

Postscript This was one of the most memorable weekends of my climbing career. When I first began to plan it I hardly believed that a weekend was long enough, but it is possible and with better weather and a speedier ascent/descent it would even be possible to return to Stromness for the Saturday night, return to the mainland on the early ferry and do a route on the way back on the Sunday.

However that would mean missing an evening in the Hoy Inn and a game of pool with Jimmy. ◄ Bowderstone hut The NMC has its own hut at the Bowderstone in the Lake District.

Members pay just £4 per night to stay, nonmembers pay £6 per night.

Hut bookings You can make bookings to stay at the hut with the hut booking secretary: Derek Cutts on 0191 268 8625 Use the club website (www.thenmc.org.uk) to check whether the hut is available on the day(s) you want to visit.

Hut key If you are visiting the hut make sure that at least one member of your party has a copy of the hut key. Derek Cutts (see above) will provide a copy of the hut key to any member on payment of a £10 deposit.

Directions to the hut Again, use the club website to find out how to get to the hut and for an explanation of parking arrangements.

Signing in Don’t forget every body must Sign in the guest book on arrival. This is a safety requirement—in the event of an emergency the fire brigade, could determine whether all guests are safe and sound.

September 2007

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January’s AGM Steve Orrell

Our AGM is being held on Wednesday 23 Jan 08. An AGM—often defined as a sort of herbal equivalent of a sleeping tablet—is the place where future changes in direction of the club can be made. So you should come along and have your say. The AGM is also when next year’s committee is elected.

The agenda has not been finalised yet but there's at least one topic up for discussion: John Mountain, our treasurer, mentioned last year that the club will need to review the membership fees at this AGM. It will be debated and put to the vote—and it should involve everyone!

Some general NMC AGM points: •

Anyone can table a motion for discussion—although you can raise most motions even during the meeting, it is considered polite to put your motion in writing to the Secretary in advance of the meeting.

•

Anyone can table a motion for discussion involving a change in the club's rules and finances—but such motions can only be discussed if they are listed on the agenda ie must be given to the secretary several weeks in advance of the meeting.

•

Full members receive a copy of the agenda at least 14 days prior to the meeting.

•

Vacant committee positions are listed on the agenda with a ‘nomination’ from the Committee—a requirement of the club’s rules. Committee positions are still open during the meeting to nominations from the general membership. So if you're interested in getting involved on the committee then find a Proposer and Seconder and pass their written nomination on to the Secretary in advance of the meeting. If more than one person stands for a single committee position then a vote will be held. ◄

NMC Quarterly Magazine

Kendal Mountain Film Fest 16 to 18 Nov 07 Join us for the annual informal NMC gathering at Kendal.

As usual it looks like being another funfilled weekend of films, slide-shows, audio-visuals, photography, books and the unmissable Saturday night party!

In recent years up to about 15 NMC members and friends have gathered for this event, usually also finding time/energy to bag a few local hills.

For beginners, it’s a great opportunity to see what a wild 'n wonderful sport you've got into; and for everyone, it’s a chance to dream, get inspired, meet top climbers from around the world and catch up with old friends.

Bryn Roberts will be making enquires about accommodation—most likely camping 2 miles from town, with good facilities including an inside cooking/eating area.

Check out the festival programme and book tickets on: www.mountainfilm.co.uk For further details about joining the other NMC people going contact Bryn Roberts on 07921 436 955 Bryns.bothy@virgin.net Updates will be announced via the NMC website.

September 2007

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Committee Matters Peter Bennett (NMC President)

The NMC committee has recently agreed the following policy which concerns the participation of under 18’s in club climbing activities.

Participation of Under-18’s in Club Activities 15/08/07 This policy is based on the BMC guidelines dated October 2006 which notes that Child Protection is a rapidly changing subject and that the information given therein may change. The same caveat applies to this policy.

1 General introduction

When considering under-18s it is important to make clear precisely who has the duty of care for each child and when that duty of care is handed from one person to another. A parent accompanying their child usually has the duty of care for their own child. However, a parent may, with agreement, pass that duty to another person, or indeed to another body such as a club.

Once this has been agreed and the child is handed to, or left in the care of, another person the duty of care also passes to that person.

3 NMC Policy Under-18s may join the club and attend meets provided: a) They are accompanied by their parent who is a member of the club,

b) They are accompanied by an adult member of the club who is in loco parentis for the specific child.

In case (b), the parent of the child should have a proper understanding of the activities to be undertaken. A declaration to that effect signed by both the member and the parent should be lodged with the club secretary before the child attends a club meet. In the event that more than one club member is to act in loco parentis for the same child, separate forms should be submitted for each member. ◄

Under 18’s Participation Form This form is now available for download from the NMC website.

2 Loco Parentis1 A parent may give consent to anyone they wish to take their child climbing, hill walking or mountaineering. This is an arrangement between the parent and the person taking the child. The person taking Wikipedia says: Latin for ‘in the place of a parent’, refers to the legal responsibility of a person or organization to take on some of the functions and responsibilities of a parent. It is applied as a broad provision allowing such institutions to act in the best interests of the under 18 as they see fit.

NMC Quarterly Magazine

When taking another person’s child climbing, hill walking or mountaineering it is wise to inform both the parent and child about the nature of the activities to be undertaken and any arrangements so they can decide whether they are happy with these or decline the offer if they are not.

or

It is well understood that individuals involved in providing sport and recreational activities for children have a duty of care.

This means all reasonable steps should be taken to minimise risk of harm or injury.

1

the child will be in loco parentis and this requires them to exercise a duty of care that would be provided by a reasonably prudent parent.

www.thenmc.org.uk/ Select ‘Docs & Files’ from the menu column on the left, then select ‘Other stuff’ and finally click on ‘Participation of Under-18s’.

Or contact the membership secretary on 07792 518 934

September 2007

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Carbon bootprints

about £4.00 per year per member.

Steve Orrell

Apols everyone, a while ago I said that this Quarterly Magazine, the ol’ QM, was going to be download-only (ie PDF) for those of our members with an email address unless you had specifically requested a printed copy. What is it they say about a camel being a horse designed by committee? :-) Anyhoo, my misunderstanding, hopefully no harm done.

Currently the situation is that we will supply a printed copy of the QM UNLESS you specifically request a downloadable PDF. Right now about 6% of members have requested the downloadable copy, and about 1% have requested to stay with the printed format. That leaves about 93% of our members who have not told us what format is required—and by default you get the printed copy.

Environmental Each copy of the QM has about 25 pages, meaning about 100 pages per year per member—in total more than 26 Reams, and we shouldn’t forget the energy and chemicals used in the production process.

And finally a few other benefits You get to see the photos in colour and you also get the QM about two weeks before the printed version plops through your letter box because of the time it takes to print and post, etc... and don’t forget you can still print it out at home if you really want a printed copy.

So, what’s the big issue? Well actually there are two big things—one is obviously the environment, the other is the club’s operating expenses.

Operating expenses At last years AGM our treasurer predicted that the membership fee would soon have to be raised as income generated from the membership was not covering all associated operating costs—currently Guide Book sales are subsidising the club, but soon a new RockFax Guide to the North East (nothing to do with the NMC) will be available—and when it does appear, the sales of our Guide Books are expected to decline.

Hence the committee has been looking at ways to reduce operating expenses where possible. Each single printed copy that arrives on your doorstep costs the club about £1.00—hence electing to have the downloadable copy would save the club NMC Quarterly Magazine

What to do now?

Well so that we don’t have to make wild guesses on your behalf we’d like you to actually opt one way or the other— paper or downloaded copy.

So please drop me a line ASAP and let me know at secretary@thenmc.org.uk ◄

September 2007

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Yorkshire Limestone Peter Bennett

A favourable weather forecast for the weekend tempted a few hardy souls to venture onto unfamiliar limestone territory.

The advance party of Peter, Gary, Malcolm and Pam arrived at the Riverside campsite in Malham on Friday afternoon, in plenty of time to set up base camp. Peter and Gary even had time to attempt a route up on the right wing of the cove, though the frictional properties of the rock compared to sandstone precipitated a hasty retreat for a rethink. Back at the campsite the rest of the team were arriving. Phil. Sam, Caroline, Jon, Amanda, Tuze, and Sarah. There ensued some entertaining and critical banter over tents and the erecting thereof. Phil won the prize for the cheapest tent, £19-97 from Tesco, just pipping Tuze, £19-99 from Aldi (or was it Argus?). Jon and Amanda sported an intimate bijou model, purchased for a forthcoming trekking trip to Corsica.

By comparison, Malcolm and Pam luxuriated in a canvas palace. And so to the pub for the usual crack and scrutiny of guide books.

Saturday dawned cloudy but dry. Jon and Amanda headed for a nearby gritsone crag, Crookwise, where Amanda was intent on honing her leading skills. Phil, Sam, Caroline, Tuze and Sarah opted for bolt clipping at Giggleswick Scar. Gary, Malcolm and Peter set off for Attermire Scar. Pam chilled out in and around Malham. The weather improved through the day and all parties reported satisfactory sorties. The bolt clippers were fortunate to meet a local who pointed them to some recently equipped routes, up to F6b, which are not yet in the guidebook. A good day of modest achievement was enjoyed at Attermire Scar, a pleasant place, seeming more remote that the half hour walk in.

Amanda triumphed in leading on gritstone.

As is traditional, the achievements and failures of the day were re-enacted in technicolour later on in the pub.

throughout the night, though by 8 am it had eased off. A soggy start to Sunday. No wind and little prospect of any improvement. This prompted a rapid decamp by most of the party, and retreat to the café for breakfast, and to plan contingency activities which included Newton Aycliffe wall, a walk up to the cove, and a fruitless trip home via Brimham and Scugdale in the misplaced hope it might be dry there. Malcolm and Pam opted for a leisurely decamp and trip home.

Apparently the weather cleared by the afternoon.

For those planning future trips to the area, in the writers view, the Riverside campsite is an unwelcoming dump! It is festooned with notices of do’s and don’t’s which can be interpreted in summary as, pay up, don’t bother me, and bugger off asap. The facilities are quite inadequate for the number of people on the site on the Saturday night, and in a poor state of cleanliness and repair. The one redeeming feature is proximity to the village, and the Cove. ◄

Steve Crowe, NMC member and author of the forthcoming Bouldering Guide to Northumberland has announced that the guide is nearing completion.

The drafts will be finalised by the end of the year with printing in early 2008.

Last call for photos Steve wants you send him digital shots—preferably delivered on CD if you have lots to send.

Slides and prints are acceptable, and historical bouldering shots would also be good.

Send photos to Steve at:

The rain started soon after we had retired, and continued, at times heavily, NMC Quarterly Magazine

September 2007

30 St Aidan's Terrace New Herrington Houghton le Spring DH4 4 LZ Tel (h) 0191 584 3361 Tel (m) 0781 454 9230

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Introduction to Lead Climbing Steve Orrell

I get to write this up and claim (justified or otherwise) all the kudos, when the reality is that Richard Pow did all the real work ....muahahahaa! Thanks Richard!

I don’t really like to talk about this much, but Sunday July 8th was an unusual day in more ways than one.

As we took the walk-in to Bowden Doors I remarked that the path was sodden, I’ve never known it squelchy under foot on that path. No matter. It was now sunny and warm, well, warm for March at The Doors.

NMC Quarterly Magazine

There was a blustery northerly which chilled as it buffeted down the length of the crag, but it hadn’t rained for a couple of days so that was a blessing.

The day was also unusual because the group now walking in had gone to the crag to metaphorically cheer on a group of our newer members. Those newer members were doing something new for themselves by taking part in something new for the club. We spotted them, said our hellos and dumped our gear down a little further away down the crag, just to keep out of the way.

Everything seems to be ‘way back in the mists of time’ these days and so it is in this instance: way back in the mists of time,

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April to be precise, that the seed of this idea started to germinate. I don’t remember who had sown that first seed, I think it was more a coming together of various conversations.

Some seeds fall on barren earth, this one fell on fertile soil and soon began to sprout (he he, get me, Booker prize here I come!).

member particpants worked like a dream.

On the day Alastair Mitchell was the instructor and Richard was his able assistant. Richard did suggest beforehand that he was going to wear his AbleAssistant’s uniform, complete with fish-net stockings but I don’t recall seeing anything of the sort on the day. However, the day was well nippy, he prolly had them on underneath his trousers. All in the best possible taste!

Quite a few people have commented that, historically, new climbers became aware of the technical aspects of climbing by picking up things as they gained overall The chatter in the pub afterwards was experience. That is a system that has excited and I certainly got the impression worked well for the NMC so far. However, that everyone had currently the a great time: from numbers of ‘The course covered quite a lot of a cold start to a people coming to ground and gave everyone an insight warm glow in the the club as new into many aspects of lead climbing. pub, all in the members and From a personal point of view it course of one day. their relatively allowed me to gain confidence in gear high level of raw Richard has placement and setting up belays. I was climbing ability, already pretty also pleased to have learned how to honed on local much finalised a abseil and use a prusik.’ climbing walls, is second training easy to see. This day, as I write, to Quoted by an attendee at the course. change and the cater for the challenge it people who didn’t make it on the first. As brought was acknowledged at a Committee you read this it will have ran, this time meeting in April this year. probably with two instructors, Alastair Mitchell and Tim Hakim, to cater for the At that time Richard Pow had spotted the numbers interested. And, of course ably enthusiasm in the newer members he’d assisted by..... been speaking to. Richard also knew of the huge benefit of getting the basics correct Nice One Richard! ◄ right from the start, and so the idea of ‘An Introduction to Lead Climbing’ training day take root.

Introduction to Lead Climbing Now, I don’t know if you’ve seen any of the BBC’s “Ultimate Outdoors” series, no not the one with that Welsh bloke bimbling around, but the one with the climbing, kayaking, caving, etc., the one where people are doing things they’re scared of, basically. It seems that they’re all girls and man, have those girls got guts and determination! It was the same on this Sunday, in both respects: all girls and all with guts and all determined!!

There have been two introductory courses run during the last few months.

Currently there are no fixed plans for another course but it is likely that there will be another run sometime in the spring.

If you want to register your interest in joining the next course please contact Richard Pow:

The training day that Richard pulled together was an excellent piece of coordination on his part: liaision between the instructor he’d sourced and our own NMC Quarterly Magazine

September 2007

richardpow@talktalk.net 07831 216 024

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NMC Guidebooks NMC members pay a discounted price for any guidebook published by the NMC.

Indoor climbing: •

Sunderland wall offers a £1 discount to NMC members off the standard entry price.

NMC Website The NMC has a very informative website www.thenmc.org.uk The website includes various discussion forums, a photoarchive for members climbing photos, online guides for most Northumberland crags and you can also buy from a large range of climbing books available.

Currently available are the following guides: • Northumberland Climbing Guide Definitive Guide to climbing in Northumberland. £12.50 to members (RRP £18.95) • Northumberland Bouldering Guide £8.00 to members (RRP £11.95) For the above 2 guides add £1.50 P&P if required.

Contact John Earl on 0191 236 5922 • No Nobler County A history of the NMC and climbing in Northumberland.

Now ONLY £2.00 Hurry while stocks Last!!!

Contact Martin Cooper on 0191 252 5707 • Climbing In North East England A guide to the best climbing in South Tyneside, County Durham, East Pennines and North York Moors £17.95 (incl. P&P) Contact Steve Crowe on 0191 584 3361

T-shirts and Fleeces Various styles of T-shirt with printed NMC designs and fleece tops with embroidered logo are available.

Order direct on the website (www.thenmc.org.uk) or contact Steve Orrell on 07792 518 934.

Have you got a good climbing/mountain-scenery photo to use in this space in future issues? Please send any submissions to me at magazine@thenmc.org.uk

NMC Quarterly Magazine

September 2007

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