County climber autumn 2006

Northumbrian Mountaineering Club Newsletter Autumn/Christmas 2006

Editorial By, this has been a hard edition to put together, many thanks to all who have come to my rescue and produced another, I hope, provocative and entertaining read. I have this theory that due to the extended summer and relatively warm autumn everyone has capitalised on the climbing and avoided sitting down at the computer.

The end of the season (is there such a thing these days??) saw us, appropriately on Wolf Crag. As a huge red ball of a summer’s sun rapidly descended a family of owls hunted in the white grass below us.

Appropriate because the Far East Buttress’ climbs are called Red Sky, Shepherd’s Warning, Fading Light and Summer’s End, well named by either Gordon Thompson or Malcolm Lowerson. Considering the crag’s close vicinity to both Newcastle and the road well worth a visit.

As a bit of a sequel to my last editorial, after another late night at work I once again found myself, in desperation, at Kepier Woods. Dappled sunshine glinted on the water as I chalked up and prepared for perfect rock (well rounded choss) and a workout. As I reached up for the first hold there was a bit of a tinkling, I looked down to see what was rattling on my harness, no harness, nor any body parts had dropped off. Reached up, more tinkling, checked myself out, no attached rattley bits, looked around and there on

the other side of the river was a jackdaw (I could swear it was the same one that had cosy’d up to the heron) swinging something in its beak. It turned out to be a small bell, Noddy style. Definitely a sign that I’m in need of some help, all this soloing on your own isn’t good for you, what I need is a winter on the wall with some good solid plastic.

O no not the plastic……………….

Wishing you a great winter whether it be plastic or white stuff. See you there.

This edition has taken so long to compile that I fear it will be nearly Christmas by the time you receive this, so can I wish you all the best and as this is likely to be my last newsletter as editor thank everyone for contributions over the last 4 years. It’s been a real pleasure to give something back to a club that has given me so much.

Cheers Chris chris.davis@uk.bureauveritas.com Cover: Anglesey briefing . Photo: Andy Birtwistle .

My Two Penneth (continued) Malcolm Rowe

This will be my last 2p, as I am nearing the end of my Presidency (which is a pity, as I was just beginning to get the hang of it) There are a few things to mention – Firstly, The Social Scene As usual, it’s all happening this Winter for NMC members – The Burnside Wall is once again ours exclusively on Wednesday evenings, the only complaint I’ve heard is that it gets too crowded, no bad thing really. John Trafford, our Social Secretary, has organized an excellent programme of Socials – check them out. The Ceilidh this year will once again be held at The Bridge Inn sometime in January (provisionally on the 19th so Carolyn tells me) and already demand for tickets is outstripping supply – see Carolyn or any other Committee member for yours, but you’d better be quick!

The Winter Meets The crème de la crème of the Winter Programme, this year they are – Torridon – 30th December to 3rd January: meet leader Martin Cooper (0191 2525707) Martin has booked the Kinlochewe Bunkhouse exclusively for us. New Year at Torridon – bring it on!

The Milehouse, Kincraig – 13th/14th January: meet leader Jon Trafford (0191 2923618) About six miles south of Aviemore, must be the poshest climbing hut in Scotland, ideally located for Meggie and the Northern Corries.

Black Rock Cottage, Glencoe – 3rd/4th February: meet leader Bryn Roberts (01207 270527) Roll out of your bunk and you’re at the foot of the Buchaille.

Ben Nevis (accommodation to be confirmed) 24th/25th February: meet leader Tim Catterall (01207 509430) Zero, Point Five, Tower Ridge etc. all in perfect condition – need I say more!

Muir of Inverey – 31st March/1st April: meet leader Malcolm Rowe (0191 2366648) West of Braemar, beside the Linn of Dee. The Cairngorm Club’s Hut, well situated for Lochnagar and the Southern Cairngorms, but keep an eye on your whiskey if the meet leader’s around.

And now some other stuff – Access If, like me, you’d thought that the CROW Act was everything we’d ever need to guarantee we’d now be able to get to the crags without any bother, then this Summers’ events at Simonside will have come as a bit of a shock. It seems that the Duke (of Northumberland that is), a couple of years ago decided to use up some of the loose change he’d been

carrying around in his back pocket and lashed out and bought Simonside (no, I didn’t know that either) and has now decided to exercise his right under CROW to stop anyone going near the place for up to twenty eight days a year. We then found out, purely by chance, a couple of days before our Wednesday meet in June that the whole area was closed for ‘Estate Management’. A grovelling phone call from yours truly to his head ‘keeper eventually managed to persuade him to allow us onto the crag, however, as the kind hearted gentleman pointed out “But just this once, in future the whole area will be out of bounds at this time of year so you’ll just have to go someplace else” Jesus, come back Bennie Rothman, we need you.

Steve and Karin recently went to Heckley, only to find the whole place has been barbed – wired off, Bill Renshaw, our Access Officer, is looking into this. One piece of good news is that the farmer who owns Queens Crag, as a gesture of goodwill to climbers (yes that’s right, goodwill by a farmer towards climbers!) has created a proper parking area next to the farm. As a token of appreciation for this the BMC have put up an honesty box and are asking climbers to resist the temptation to jemmy it off the wall and instead put a pound or two in it.

Climbing Walls There’s to be a brand new purpose built wall at Middlesbrough and at Newburn there’s to be another two auto – belay points. Also at Newburn, John and Andy Earl are to be asked next time they’re setting

the routes to just have the holds twelve feet apart, instead of the fifteen they are now.

The Hut Anyone who is a fan of the film ‘It’s a Wonderful Life’ starring James Stewart (not one of the latest releases, but it’s bound to be on the telly again this Christmas), will be reassured to know it’s all true, miracles really do happen and in our case it happened at the Bowderstone. I know, because on one magical weekend in April, I saw with my very own eyes, God sent three good fairies down, who then re-slated, pointed up and finished off the whole of the kitchen roof, just like that, amazing – thank you God.

fairies on a roof?

A few folk, ok – everybody, may have heard the rumour that the Climbers’ Club have been trying to take over our hut and yes, like all rumours, it’s perfectly true. The lowdown on what’s been going on – Last July, the CC contacted us to ask for a meeting to discuss the Bowderstone. That meeting took place at the working meet in September, (of course, not many folk knew about this, because not many attended the working meet, did they?) Anyway, they said they wanted to take over the hut, because they didn’t have a hut of their own in the Lakes and they also had loads of cash (£45,000) to spend on doing the place up. In return for us handing our hut over to them, every NMC member would then have the same right of access as their own members (including a key), to all of their huts. Now bearing in mind that the CC has seven other huts throughout Britain, this seemed like an offer worth thinking about. I asked them to put all of this in writing, they did, but they backtracked, saying they’d changed their mind about letting the NMC stay at their other huts, but we’d still be allowed to stay at the Bowderstone, (that is along with their 1,400 members!). I wrote back to them, (makes you wonder how anything ever got done before e-mails), saying no way - we want what was originally offered or no deal, they wrote back saying no deal. End of story.

Youths And Youthesses The NMC now has its very own Youth Policy – After many months of deliberations, during which time the Committee have spent endless hours talking about it

and seeking guidance and advice about it and now, thankfully, it’s all done, thanks mainly to Steve Nagy that is. The result is a very impressive document. So what, you may ask, does the Club now do to welcome young folk under eighteen into our ranks? Easy – nothing. That’s right, we’re not going to have them, no chance, no way. Why? Because, as is also happening to lots of other clubs, the law now makes it impossible, crazy isn’t it? What’s even more mind boggling is the long term effect of all of this child protection legislation on sport in general, I just can’t ever see England winning a penalty shoot out now.

A Personal Message I’d like to finish with a message of thanks to all of those folk who are supporting and encouraging me in my attempt to be the first person to achieve what is undoubtedly the last great challenge left for British Mountaineering – i.e. the completion of all The Munros in strict alphabetical order. For those who have requested an update, things are progressing well, if rather slowly and I am now just starting on the b’s.

Enjoy Christmas and have a good New Year Malcolm

The County’s Forgotten Crag Graeme Read

The DMM Wallnut Zero is placed, composure is momentarily regained, a strained look across at the tiny piece of metal…..Shit! That isn’t sitting right! A brief moment of stress, followed by a deep breath and calm…..I can either play about with the crucial runner, replace it from my current position and waste valuable energy and blow one of the County’s most famous “superlative hard classics” or I can push on into the very sequential 6b climbing that lay above and take the consequences, knowing fine well a fall from the rounded break beyond the crux could result in a very long fall. Longer still if that Wallnut Zero ripped…..Hugh Harris’s article in ‘No Nobler County’ briefly crossed my mind…..Hugh had tested the holy runner and it had held, I hadn’t but I knew from the time I had spent cleaning the route and actually finding and pulling the sloping side pulls that the sequence was do-able, in fact the previous night they had felt quite good, but this time was different, it was a warm muggy evening and I was on lead! Stuff it…..you know you can do it…..right hand up to side pull, right foot pressed against the shallow corner, hard pull, left foot thrown out onto the crappy smear unearthed from the lichen the other night, finger tips into pocket followed by an even worse side pull, a rock-up to the right onto another dubious smear and then….Yes! Right hand into the depression, I held it!

A quick swap of the feet and a further long reach led to the top…..I was elated, Mark Savage – who had

filmed the ascent – greeted me with a firm handshake. I peered over the top and gave the thumbs up to my faithful belayer, Steve Kirkup, who just happens to be my brother in law and who has only been climbing for a year! He declined to follow (I didn’t blame him) so a quick ab to collect the gear brought me safely to the ground.

First Among Equals was now complete. The route had been eating away at me ever since I got into climbing six years ago, and in those early days I dismissed it as ‘will always be beyond me’. I was aware it had had very few ascents and Hugh’s summary of the climb had only added to the aura surrounding it. Another driving force behind climbing the route for me was the fact that on this particular buttress lie three mega classic outcrop climbs side by side which, in my opinion, are the best routes of their respective grades in Northumberland; and here they are, incorporated within fifteen metres of hard, quality sandstone, what more could you want!

As you stand at the foot of the buttress First Among Equals E6 6b lies to the left, the compelling line of Ravensheugh Crack HVS 5a splits the buttress down the middle and is perhaps the best crack climb in the County bar Sandy Crack. To the right of this is yet another personal favourite of mine, Childhoods End E4 6a, which incorporates into its 14 metre length a combination of an awkward bouldery start, a superbly delicate slab while at the same time laybacking a perfectly formed crack followed by a strenuous little

traverse leftwards to do battle with the crux of Ravensheugh Crack – fantastic! To the right of this again is yet another excellent route, Wild West Show HVS 5a which although only given two stars in the guide is also very good and is probably the most amenable of all the climbs on this section of the crag.

It had long been my aim to lead all of these routes, and now that I’d achieved it I was feeling quite good about myself.

Climbing at Ravensheugh for me personally has been, and still is, one of the most rewarding experiences of my climbing career. I never tire of going to the place, even when I’m not climbing with Richard (who can exercise his Forestry Commission benefits by borrowing the barrier key which reduces the approach time to ten minutes!) I don’t have any problem with having to face the long (by Northumberland standards) walk in. In fact there was a week in May when I climbed there five times!

The one thing I can’t get my head around though is that on every single occasion, bar once, that I’ve climbed there, other than the person(s) I’ve actually been climbing with I haven’t seen a single soul at the crag. I find this amazing and I don’t think I’ll be too far out in saying that for every one person who climbs at Ravensheugh fifty will climb at Bowden or Kyloe. Fair enough it may not be a four-season crag but during the many weeks of fine weather we had this summer I still didn’t come across anybody else.

This is a real shame as the routes here are easily as good as, if not better than, those at Bowden or Kyloe.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying the latter two venues are not worth the trouble as they are both excellent venues in their own right, it’s just that while these crags are becoming trashed by countless numbers of people (the evidence of this is clear to me and I have noticed it only over a six year period) I feel that folk are really missing out by not coming to crags like Ravensheugh.

Yes, it is my favourite place to climb therefore I am a little biased, and yes I am prepared to put the work in and clean the routes that I really want to climb, but there is so much variety here for those operating at HVS and above. There is, however, a golden rule which I feel should be adhered to: On sighting anything above E1 here is a character building experience, attempting to on sight anything above E4 is foolhardy – unless a minimum cleaning inspection is carried out – and I guess it would then come down to your own climbing ability and just how much you want to do the route. Pound for pound though the routes here are as good as, if not better than, any other crag in the North East, and the only buttress which houses as many quality routes as those found on the Ravensheugh Crack buttress is possibly the Tube wall at Back Bowden.

I had visited Ravensheugh many times in my early years, mostly with my father on walks and then as part of a circuit which I used to run, long before I started climbing. Even back then I used to enjoy being at the place and exploring amongst the rocks.

The view from the crag is the finest from any crag in the county, and you can almost literally guarantee the place to yourself all the year round.

My first climbing experience there was in 2000 with a lad called Mark Cooper; we had just completed the beginners course at the Berghaus Wall and we were raring to get to grips with the real thing. I remember it was a very hot day in early May and we soloed the V Diff Parallel Cracks on the Little Idi wall as well as attempting the other problems on this little buttress. The crux of Little Idi itself was overcome but a little look down from the break above the flake put off any ideas of topping out so a controlled jump was necessitated, which took some summoning up of courage as we hadn’t yet acquired a mat! This was followed by a nervous fumble up a dirty Severe on to the top of the First Pinnacle, and an even more nervous heart-in-mouth solo down an even dirtier Vdiff to land on the ground again, and as if we hadn’t had enough we finished off with another ropeless foray, this time up the rather exposed Catwalk. This day stands out for me not only as it was my first days cragging at Ravensheugh, but also that it lit the flame for my fascination with the place, a flame that is still burning strong today. Other days that have stuck in my mind (there are that many!) include an evening after work with Rick Barnes when we climbed the classic Trouser Legs and Gates of Eden, had to experience the down-climb solo off the First Pinnacle again (the look on Rick’s face was a picture as I nodded to his question of “so is this the way down?”)

and a heart-in-mouth abseil from some dodgy tat off the Second Pinnacle – evening cragging in Northumberland certainly packs a punch!

Another memorable occasion was when I led Childhoods End; it had been a cool, breezy evening but as the sun began to sink over the distant Cheviots the wind dropped completely and the temperature rose as a result – just as I was about to set off. While making the long reach into the bottomless crack the crucial runner – which has to be placed blind – fell from between my teeth, making the next few moves up onto the slab feel very precarious! Thanks must go to my belayer Chris Davis there, for if it wasn’t for his encouragement I would probably have bottled it. Then there were the days spent cleaning and climbing many of the mega-classics with Richard Pow during the dry summer of 2003. So many fantastic days (oh, and there was the almost wind assisted ascent of Judas Hole earlier this year which felt quite exciting!)

I am now going to attempt to make a selected list of the classic starred routes to the best of my own personal knowledge, ranging from a ‘very easy’ category through to a ‘very hard’ category, and give an indication of what state they are likely to be in and how people will generally find them climbing-wise (based on the theory that the average trad climber leads HVS)

Very Easy The Parallel Cracks – Three routes all at Vdiff, all clean and worth the trip if you operate at this grade Crescent Wall – Steady at MVS, very clean and straightforward The Crescent – An ‘unusual’ Severe, clean Easy Pendulum – VS 4c an excellent route, the bottom slab can be quite slippery unless it is bone dry, the rest of the route is fine and steady away at VS Little Leaner – VS 5a a very good little route with an awkward crux at the top, could be dirty early on in the season but will improve with ascents. Well protected.

Half Minute Crack – Good, solid VS jamming from bottom to top, not very clean but will improve with traffic Moderate Ravensheugh Crack – Half Minute Crack x 2! HVS 5a immaculate jamming and perfect protection, one of the cleanest routes on the crag The Trouser Legs – E1 5b This is borderline hard!

An interesting route with a bit of everything.

Unfortunately doesn’t get enough ascents to stay clean and can feel hard as a result. When clean it is steady at the grade and absolutely superb

Gates of Eden – The third of the classic E2’s of Northumberland. Should be reasonably clean, but take a brush on your harness just in case. This route will probably be elevated into the hard or even very hard category if you are under 5’10 inches tall….Richard, Karin and Rick know what I mean!

Hard Candle in the Wind – A notch up on the previous route at E3 5c, with an awkward boulder problem start. Certainly on-sightable in its current state but take a brush. The upper arête is brilliant!

Honeymoon Crack – If done unaided offers a good, hard crack climb at around E3/4 6b. Unfortunately it can get very sandy and will almost certainly require a brush Very Hard Trial Separation – At E4 6b a series of one boulder problem above another up the west face of the Second Pinnacle. Will definitely need a clean and a prior inspection but well worth the effort (I thinks its actually a tad harder than E4!)

The Plumber – An awesome ‘little’ route, E5 6b providing sustained climbing on small sloping holds with no protection. If you value your limbs then this will need to be inspected and cleaned first. Bob Hutchinson was well ahead of his time

Childhoods End – See earlier description. I don’t think I’d be too far wrong in saying that E4 outcrop climbing doesn’t get any better than this The Judas Hole – Yet another superb, bold climb at E5 6a, offering balancy climbing up an awkward groove to start with followed by a bulging wall on small holds to finish. This route has the added bonus of gear! Will require a brush Plumbline – E4 5c insecure, protectionless climbing up an immaculate arête. The climbing isn’t too hard but concentration is the key (just keep telling yourself that the crossly hold out right near the top WILL NOT snap!) Will need a brush off First Among Equals – E6 6b. The undoubted jewell in the crags crown as far as hard routes go. Awesome climbing up a fading crackline, plenty of gear low down but the sustained 6b crux sequence feels a long way above this, although you probably will be safe.

Clean at the time of writing, but no doubt a prior inspection will be required as this wall becomes very dirty over the winter months.

I hope this article inspires at least a hand full of hardy characters to brave the ‘walk-in’ next summer, experience the quality on offer and take some of the cleaning duties out of my hands!

Oh, and before I forget, has anyone been up to Sandy Crag recently……?

Poems Angus McDonald whilst scrapping a lot of old papers came across the following pieces of verse, he doesn’t know who wrote them or anything about copyright, so in trepidation of the treasurer’s wrath here they are:

Unvisited Lonely places I have not seen Distant glens I have never visited Islands where I have almost been Mountain tops where I have not stood Down the years you have called to me Come we are here for you to see.

Times when the weather drove me back Days when the goal proved too remote Straying away from the proper track Once, when alas, I missed the boat These are the themes that haunt my mind Lonely places I did not find.

White shell beaches where seabirds flute Secret pools where the burn flows deep Soft pine needles beneath my feet Towering crags where the eagles sweep What I have lost that I might have known Wisdom I might have made my own.

Years roll on, I’ve had my share

Time has humbling lessons to teach Miles seem longer than once they were Many goals are beyond my reach Lonely places I may not see Is it too late you call to me.

Behind the Ranges Something Hidden Go and find it Go and look behind the Ranges Something lost behind the Ranges Lost! And waiting for you Go!

Strange Fruit Graham Williams

Have you ever seen that film called ‘Strange Fruit’?

In it the middle aged members of a rock band reform for one last tour trying to recreate the glories of their youth.

I don’t know why I mention this really. This summer a team of six based round the NMC composed myself, Bryn, Lewis, Nick, Reng (Richard Hardwick) and Dave made the long drive south to the Alps. The plan had been this; to head down the central Switzerland area of the Furka and Grimsel passes and to try to do both some of the long slab routes and some of the classic high level rock climbs in the area. Things,

however, rarely go according to plan as these notes from my diary show.

By the time myself Reng and Nick arrived at Innerkirchen the other car had had one day on the crag and already experienced the mixed weather hitting central Switzerland. The following morning was damp, a brighter afternoon gave enough encouragement to drive up the Grimsel pass, where all the teams managed to find routes that where dry enough to attempt and finished them just before the rain started again. My diary takes up the story the next day.

21/8/06 Overnight rain, low cloud and dank in the morning. Went into Merringen in the morning for supermarket shop, and to consult the weather forecast and Sherlock Holmes. Neither gave much encouragement.

After much discussion, with things drying up, drove up the Susten Pass. In many ways a much more attractive valley than the Grimsel Pass.

Climbed at Steinletscher sector Platten with Nick and did a 6 pitch route called Plattenweg. Very pleasant and enjoyable, reminiscent of Ardveriekie Wall, only with bolts. Five abseils got us down, I dropped my belay plate on the last and Nick had to

lower me. Fortunately I found my plate amongst the vegetation.

All went for a quick beer at the Steinletcher Hotel.

The next day saw a repeat performance weather wise. We nearly ended up heading down to Finale but a few calls between the cars once we were in the Italian sunshine saw another change of plan and we went to the Mello Valley. A long walk up to Ginnetti Hut put myself and Reng below our intended objective of the south ridge of the Torelli.

24/8/06

Up at 6.30, not

looking too bad, then spits of rain and cloud blowing in. Lewis and Bryn eventually decided on the ordinary route on the Badile. With the weather looking worse we headed for the slabs on the Punta Enrichetta on the advice of the hut guardian. Despite the rain

Reng off on the slippery first pitch. By the time I got onto the second pitch the sun was out and the rock was dry. A couple more pitches finished the route. Abbed down just as the rain started again and headed back to the hut for a hot chocolate. Spent a bit of time in the hut before heading down, and made radio contact with Bryn and Lewis to confirm they were safely on their descent.

Shortly after that the rain became very heavy for the long descent back to the valley where we were offered a lift in an unfeasibly small car back to the campsite. Much later the other two teams arrived back, both at the same time, very wet and rather stressed. Most eating places in the village closed by the time we got there so we eventually ended up eating at the restaurant by the other campsite with Nick doing his ferrying services.

My vegetarian principals took a firm nose dive the, the choice was between goat and horse, I went for the goat, which was probably a mistake as it was fairy disgusting.

25/8/06 Myself and Reng relatively fit having had not such a long day as the others, who were shattered after long days yesterday. Nick and Dave had got 10

pitches up the Gervasutti route on the Allievi before abbing down the side in the rain. Eventually we got going , went down to the village for bread then got the shuttle bus up to the Mello valley. Very nice, very impressive valley. Walked through the trees to the base of Tunnel vision (5a,5a,3c), but an Italian family of three were sending their teenage son up his first trad lead. It was obviously going to take a long time so we headed rightwards to the Sarcophagus and the route Aucta….(5a,5b,5a). The second pitch gave a classic struggle up a narrowing cleft, I backed off but Reng led the pitch in as fine a style as is possible on that sort of thing. I then led a super twin jamming cracks pitch. Walked down, bus back to the village and walked on to the sports crag to see Nick and Dave, who had settled for a crag with an under 5 minute walk in after their efforts the day before. Nice meal at the café, Bryn and Lewis showed up having done their route. Having already had quite a lot of wine at the end the owner got out his local herb infused spirit, interesting….

The next day we climbed Tunnel Vision, and then on a good forecast went round to the Swiss side of the range and up to the Albigna hut.

28/8/06 Up at 6.00am having not slept much at all. At the foot of the route at the foot of the route (Modern times, 11 pitches up to 5a) for 7.30. Lewis and Bryn arrived shortly after and pushed in to start the route . Cold and a bit greasy on the first pitch which Reng led.

My lead on a

sustained easier but sparsely protected slab pitch.

Reng then led a tricky partly damp pitch. Easier climbing follows with some route finding difficulty, did an alternative pitch before rejoining. Good 11 pitches, got to the top of the route just before 12.

Wanted to follow the others onto the summit of the Punta Albigna walked up scree and moraine to find the start of NW ridge.

Led a 5a bolt protected pitch then things started to go wrong. The weather started to close in from up the glaciated valley with snow flakes in the air. Reng failed to take the right line on the next pitch then I tried to lead a corner with some old pegs that was far too hard for the

correct line.

With the weather worsening we retreated. A complicated descent. Temporarily the weather had cleared up, only to close in again just before we got to the hut.

A cold night with snow followed and after a days walking, and given the poor forecast, we decided to go to Lecco to clip some bolts on the limestone sports crags in the area..

30/8/06 We drove up Lecco to the crag by the cable car station above Barzio (Zucco dell' Angelone). Did a 3 pitch route (in 4 pitches!) on the near part of the crag. First pitch I led very delicate with well spaced bolts. Got down in 2 abbs.

Very good limestone crag.

Walked along the base and found the others. After a late start and a beer after finishing climbing time was getting on, so gave up any intentions of cooking on the campsite and went into Lecco. Just off the water front found a pizza place very good, cheap and busy with local families.

After another day on Lecco limestone we headed back into Switzerland to camp at Flims. Wiliest Lewis and the others went on an architectural

pilgrimage myself and Nick went off in search of one last days cragging. It turned out to be a bit of a tour of the more esoteric Swiss crags.

1/9/06 First port of call was the cable car station at Wangs, we were advised that there would be too much snow (from the recent fall) to climb at the Gneiss crags of Pizol. Toured round, found a grotty short road side crag and decided not to climb there. Went on to a crag above Weite, nice approach by a castle but the crag itself was hidden in trees and damp in places, rather reminiscent of Peak Scar. We did 5 routes and then went and had a coffee in Sargans. We then went and found a crag near the river Rhein at Mals.

Nick led a very good 5a slab route. I then failed on a polished horror show of a 5a pitch, only got as far as the first bolt! Back to the campsite o find the others just starting to cook up.

Afterwards whilst the others turned in myself Bryn and Reng wandered into town for a quick beer and to gather our thoughts on what had been a very successful trip.

The journey back was an epic in itself best summed up in these terse notes.

2/9/06 Left Flims 9.30 am Arrived Calias 10.30pm 3/9/06

Arrived Deby 3.30am. Left Derby 8.30 am. Arrived Newcastle11.30am

Mike’s Christmas Quiz

Answers at the end of the newsletter.

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Stormy Seas 6b at Bowden Doors?

33 1/3 rpm Corby’s Route, finishes in a groove?

Jarrow Scribe E3 at Kyloe Out? Saddam wishes he could hang out in Iraq’s ancient gardens?

German City given a lift in 1948?

Modern Ottoman Empire now maybe set to join the EU? St Ninians resting place near to the Drakestone?

Florida’s most southerly point?

Place with the world’s highest recorded tides?

Rainbowx are composd of 7 colours, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo., name the 7th?

We’ve all had them, but have we done the E3 route at Simonside?

South Yardhope classic will give you the name of a Pink Floyd track?

Name of the sea surrounding Kalymnos?

The hard mineral found in chalk deposits?

Guess at the age of Stonehenge, European capital which was also known as music city?

The world’s smallest independent state?

18. British inventor of the world’s 1st mechanical computer?

19. The name of an eminent roofer will give you Australia’s longest river?

20. Who made the world’s 1st balloon flight?

21. Egyptian Queen seized by Julias?

22. The principle on which sonar works?

23. What is a fish’s top balancing fin called?

24. The worlds 1st earth orbiter was?

25. Koalas are species of?

26. Name the volcano that buried Pompeii?

27. What is the main chemical constituent of the sun?

28. The home of the worlds deepest valley is?

29. Where is the location of the worlds biggest wind farm?

30. The worlds longest production car was?

With thanks to Mike Thomas

Brimham Meet 23rd September Chris Davis

The thing about the Brimham meet was that it wasn’t at Brimham.

Changing meet venues seems to be almost sacrosanct given the extensive chat room correspondence on the website. I had been climbing with me old marra Rick on Wolf Crag a few Wednesday’s before. As we pulled boots off in the gloom after a good session soloing some end of summer classics I posed the question, coming on my meet then? Alright if it’s on the bolts. Well

Brimham is not exactly bolt country and I haven’t had much of a chance to climb with the old boy this year so the venue duly changed to Giggleswick (or maybe Robin Proctor Scar depending on weather).

Saturday the 23rd saw a rendezvous on the A1 near Durham with Cliff, Ben and Andrew joining us. An ominous drizzle started to soak everything in sight as we progressed southwards.

Ripon was soaked, Harrogate was soaked, the A59 was wet, Skipton was grey, then suddenly above Gargrave was a patch of blue sky. Then more and more and suddenly we were back to that scorching summer, well it was hot. So feeling pretty good about the change of venue we arrived at Giggleswick’s bright white limestone with newly bolted lines winking at us. The long walk in of about 30 metres provided line after line of shiny bolts.

Given my last bolt climb was in Kalymnos last year I was a bit nervous about getting on the sharp end but managed a few warm up routes and then started ratching up the grades (or is it retching).

Laura met us at the crag between liaisons with certain gentlemen and teamed up with Cliff, can you believe he’s a Grandad (as it seems are half the club these days, actually not true, good to see the new youths at the wall).

Now, all was going well after 6 routes until we attempted a route called Easy Lovin’ 6C, if anyone’s

done it please let me know. After a bit of a struggle on the bottom section I managed to get onto the top headwall (sounds good on a 15 metre high crag) via an undercut flake. Up the flake, one last bolt to clip and I was up, except I wasn’t. Even with my super-human reach I couldn’t clip the bolt, down to the ledge to rest. It was getting hotter and hotter, rest a bit, listen to the ping from the golf course, up again, different approach this time, wrong hand, down again.

Rest again, not many people on the golf course, must be the Masters. Up again, getting hot, down again, getting hotter, up again, down again. O bugger it let’s go for a pint.

We collected the boys who had a great introduction to the bolts, met Cliff at the car, Laura had left for her next liaison, and headed for a most welcome pint in the first pub in the village savouring a fine Yorkshire evening in the beer garden. The wonders of text informed that John and Amanda had managed to salvage a good day at Brimham which had dried in the afternoon.

Thanks everyone for coming and …… Steve trust me when I say the sun will shine. Bolts next year anyone?

Wanted Old PCs If you’re replacing your old PC in the near future and are probably just going to bin the old one can you do me a favour?

I,m looking to set up a file server network here at home and I can probably put to use PC’s that would otherwise end up in the server farm in the sky.

If I can help you with your garbage disposal just give me a call on 01670 714 782.

Cheors Steve Orrell Ps If you want help setting up your posh new (wireless or otherwise) network, or internet connection, or PC, let me know (its what I do!).

New members meet, Scugdale, 8 October 2006 Pete Flegg and Steve Orrell The NMC’s philosophers have debated it since the club’s inception (in 1645 BC)—that age old problem of ‘When does a new member no longer rank as a new member?’

I’m almost a new member myself because although I’ve been in the club for a fraction over two years this was actually the first time I had ever managed to get out to a new members meet.

But… there is never any debate about who needs to be at a new members meet: it always involves a mix of the ‘old and experienced’—in this case Steve Orrell and Jon Trafford—and the young (and probably even more experienced) and of course the others who fit somewhere in between (Amanda and Alison?)

We couldn’t really complain about the weather, although it was blustery and warmish (cold for those belaying on the top) it was at least dry. Most seemed to have a go at every option—bouldering, solo’ing and leading routes.

Laura being spotted by Jon Dixon Steve took charge of pointing out good boulder problems to those who were interested—although at one stage he dragged me in to help claiming that his accent made him unintelligible to non-Geordies!

Andy Coverdale, Jon Dixon and Laura Donaldson all managed, in fine style, the test-piece wall of Pingers (VS 5a **). Ben Gilbert and Tom both made successful attempts on Tippling wall (HVS 5a **)— Steve also climbed it claiming that someone had to show them how it was done.

Phil Steadman went home with another bruised and swollen ankle after landing awkwardly on the mat— the second time in almost as many months apparently.

Amanda and Alison climbed with Jon Trafford, the so called ‘Route Meister’, who was quite happy to lead others up routes or belay anyone who needed belaying.

Laura on Pingers

I arrived late (and left early) with Guenther, Konstanza and Leonardo (visiting from Germany) two of whom spoke Spanish so that Laura at least could have a conversation with them. None of them had climbed before so I showed them the easy boulder problems at the right-hand end of the crag.

I then taught them how to smear and finally, with Alison belaying, led them up Pup’s Wall and Gravity Wall.

Afterwards it was down to the Black Horse in Swainby for the essential food and beer finale to a fine day.

An Improbably Nice Morning Rob Say

Fri 3rd - brass monkey morning with heavy frost, skies were clear and the sun broke through early.

Looking at Metcheck and BBC a similar start was forecast for the next day. I made a lengthy scan of t'internet for a crag that would suit my purpose.

I only had the morning and expected it to be cold with some wind and ground frost. I had to find a south facing (or SE) quick drying crag with easy access from Hexham. NMC guide didn't show anything*, UKClimbing gave me Padda, Linshiels, Gimmerknowe and Spadeadam but confused me by labelling them W, NE, WNW etc. That turned out to be the bearing from where I was. I already knew Padda was too much of a walk in, Linshiels - MOD,

Gimmer - bouldering, but Spadeadam? - never heard of it... very little info. Climbonline gave me a comprehensive list with aspects - Spadeadam showed up again and the grid reference looked interesting .

A Google or three later and I found the FRCC new routes list - including Spadeadam. You have to drive past it to reach the head of

the track to Padda and it's only just in Cumbria. 14 or so routes up to 10 m high on south facing fell sandstone 10 mins from the road. Jackpot. The FRCC notes indicated recent development (1988+) and some questions over grading but what the heck; Northumberland is my playground and I should be used to that..

So on Saturday morning I got up early, packed the car, picked up my partner and headed west. It was bleak and overcast and not very promising. Turned right at Greenhead and wound our way up through the forest. More wind, only slightly lighter - it would be a pleasant walk if nothing else. We parked and headed over the open ground dropping into the valley to find the crag. On the far side of the burn were some

north facing bits of rock; black, slimy and overgrown - this didn't look good. Finally we turned the corner to see a very nice clean sandstone buttress with plenty of breaks - oooh nice.. and when we reached it the rock was dry.

The grading was 'interesting' in places but we tried stuff and got up it and the new fence provided excellent belay points (principally 9" corner post).

Range was MS through to E3 but we limited ourselves to VS (of which there is a fine selection) - the HVS I fancied had a note saying 'at the top end of the grade' and based on what we'd done already I thought it best to save it.

Spadeadam - fantastic place and in good nick in November.

Who'd have thought it? http://www.frcc.co.uk/rock/guides/spadeadam.htm

and some more detail on the lines: http://thenmc.org.uk/component/option,com_gallery 2/Itemid,54/lang,en/?g2_itemId=5621 (or see this pics above)

Dates for your Diary Wildtrak Discount Week Monday 4th- Friday 8th December NB: NOT available on the Saturday!!

20% discount from retail price (RRP) Take your membership card Offer excludes items in sale Evening Slideshows Date

Venue

Pub Twice Brewed Black Swan Highlander Anglers Arms Turks Head Highlander

6th September 13th September 20th September 27th September 4th October

Crag Lough Kyloe Out Wanneys Coe Crag Drakestone East Woodburn /Wolf Peel Crag Bowden Rothley Corby’s Shaftoe

26th July 2nd August 9th August 16th August 23rd August 30th August

Weekend Meets

Twice Brewed Black Swan Dyke Neuk Anglers Arms Highlander

Date

Venue

Leader

4 – 6 August 12 – 13th August 26 – 28th August 2nd – 3rd September

North Wales Yorks Limestone Bowderstone BBQ Bowderstone Working Meet

23rd September

Brimham Slipstones Scugdale Memebers MTB Meet

John Mountain Peter Bennett tbc S Bevan/W Blyth 0191 2621124 0191 5343608 Chris Davis 01207 520264 Jon Trafford 0191 2923618 Steve Nagy 01665 570141

th

8th October 21st or October

22nd

or New

Evening Talks Date 6

th

December

13th December 24th January

7th February Late Feb/March

Venue Gaz Parry Climbing in Madagascar Christmas Quiz Barry Imeson Ian Parnell From the Cairngorms to the Himalaya , Scottish gulleys to cutting edge new routes in the Himalaya.

Members at Home Mark Savage Climbing in Northumberland

Burnside

Burnside Burnside

Burnside

Winter Meets 2007 Date

Venue

Leader

3

Presidents Walk

Malcolm Rowe

rd

December

30th Dec – 3rd Jan

Torridon

12th – 14th Jan

Cairngorms

2nd – 4th February

Glencoe Blackrock Cottage Fort William

23rd –25th February 10th – 11th March

Muir of Braemar

Inverey

0191 2366648 Martin Cooper 0191 2525707 Jon Trafford 0191 2923618 Bryn Roberts 01207 270527 Tim Catterall 0120 7 509430 Malcolm Rowe 0191 2366648

Winter Meet on 24th and 25th Feb 2007 is now based in Fort William not Inchree.

Hi all, that time is fast approaching, the ice is starting to form and the weather for Feb is ordered. This year sounds like it is going to be a cracking year for ice, Cairngorm ski slopes are already open and Elliots Downfall has already formed!!!!!! Or was that Italy last year, can’t quite remember as I am quite tired as there is the sound of a newly arrived little girl in our house born on Sunday, mother and baby doing fine and all that.

Many congrats Tim and Frances from all of us.

Following some complaints about last years venue we have moved it into Fort William. I have booked a

hostel for 16 people in Fort William so best book soon if you want to guarantee a place. The apre climbing should be quite good as it is right near the centre of town and there is a really good ale pub near by. It is £12.50 a night and full payment secures a place. If nearer the time people find they can’t go they are free to find a replacement themselves or if I have a waiting list it could be offered to them. You can check out the hostel at: http://www.hostelbookers.com/hostels/scotland/for t-william/3374/ Cheques should be made payable to The NMC and sent to me, sharpen your tools and get in contact.

Hope you decide to come.

Cheers Tim.

Winter Instruction for Beginners At the weekend of the Cairngorm meet Tim Hakim (tel. 01434 606825), a qualified mountaineering instructor and club member is offering instruction (at a fee to be agreed) for beginners in general winter mountaineering. Places at the meet are subject to availability and can be booked through the meet leader, to arrange for instruction please contact Tim separately.

NMC (Christmas) Bash Rather hurriedly we’ve pulled together the idea of getting together as members just before Christmas as a sort of NMC Christmas Party.

Rather than go for the trad option it was suggest we go sport! Spanish in fact… well, a lot of folk have been climbing in Spain, Majorca, (shhh, that K [for Kalymnos] place too!) so tapas rather than turkey seems to be on the menu.

The details are as follows: Date - Saturday 16th December Venue - Est Est Est on the quayside in Newcastle Time - 7:00 pm onwards We don’t have to book but it will probably be better if we do, and the sooner the better. Because of the short timescale (and the fact that Carolyn, who normally organises the socials, is having surgery on her leg v. soon and probably uncontactable for a little while) if you’re interested contact me as soon as possible; Steve Orrell, steve@gpsinternet.com, 01670 714 782 All the best to you all!!

Mike’s Christmas Quiz Answers 1.

Rough Passage

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L.P. Bede Babylon, Berlin Turkey Harbottle/Northumberland Key West Bay of Fundy, Canada Violet Dirty Thor’t, Comfortably Numb, Aegean, Flint, 5,000 years, Vienna Vatican City, Babbage Murray Montgolfier Brothers 1783, Cleopatra, Echo Dorsal Yuri Gagarin Marsupial Vesuvius Hydrogen Yarlung Valley, Tibet 17,600 ft Alamont California Bugatti ‘Royale’ 1927 – 22.5 ft.

Further information on: www.thenmc.org.uk