The Ultimate Guide to Souq Waqif

Doha’s sprawling, spell-binding market is a must-see cultural melting pot

WORDS BY EMMA LEDGER ILLUSTRATION BY MOKSHINI

The history

Sitting in the heart of the city, just off the waterfront, Souq Waqif is built on the site of a century-old market where Bedouin and local people once gathered to trade spices, livestock and other staple goods. This labyrinthine bazaar, whose name translates to ‘standing market’, is Doha’s oldest souq and one of the Qatari capital’s most culturally rich places.

After much of the market was destroyed by a fire in 2003 it was rebuilt to preserve its unique heritage. Today, its cobbled alleys are lined with beautiful shops selling everything from antiques to street food. The mud-daubed buildings, grand wooden doors and bamboo ceilings make a pleasant change of pace from the soaring skyscrapers dominating the rest of Doha’s skyline.

What To Expect

The market runs daily from 10am until 11pm, but treasure hunters should arrive early to make the most of the experience; stalls are piled high with leather goods, foods, fabrics, rugs, furniture, jewellery and intricate artefacts from the entire region.

As Qatar was once at the centre of the pearl industry, you should also expect incredible jewellery – from headpieces and multi-tiered necklaces to more everyday items – to suit any budget. Follow your nose to find Insta-ready spices spilling out of jute sacks. Stock up on Arabic aromats such as saffron, zatar, sumac and dried black lemons to add wow to meals back home. As a bonus, if you find you’ve somehow bought more than you can carry, wheelbarrow-pushing men are on hand to take everything to your car for a few Qatari riyals.

Etiquette Tips

Before you leave for the souq, think about what you’re wearing. It’s respectful to dress modestly, covering your shoulders, knees and elbows. Also, come prepared for a little backand-forth on prices. Souq Waqif is the perfect place to practise your haggling skills – in fact, it’s culturally expected. At a stall you won’t need to pay the first price offered by a seller; instead suggest around 20 per cent off the original price and barter until you come to a deal that suits both of

Doha’s Top Spots

Amiri Diwan | 2-min drive

Pearl Monument | 5-min drive

National Museum of Qatar | 7-min drive

Souq Waqif | 4-min drive

M7 Qatar Museum | 4-min drive

Al Bidda Park | 3-min drive

Umbrella Park | 6-min drive

Museum of Illusions | 10-min drive

Katara Plaza | 15-min drive

Museum of Islamic Arts | 6-min drive

Katara Cultural Village | 13-min drive you. Another thing to bear in mind is that one of the unwritten rules of the Middle East is to use only your right hand for eating and greeting.

A FEW SOUq ESSENTIALS

The Souq Waqif Art Centre showcases and sells traditional Islamic and Middle Eastern artworks. It also runs workshops and art classes; choose to take part or watch artists at work.

Don’t go home without sampling the region’s traditional fragrances. Oud is a wood that is traditionally burnt for relaxation, while the argan oil on sale is of sublime quality. Seek out shops where you can custom-make your own perfume for a unique souvenir or, for a nod to local culture, have an artist apply a henna tattoo.

The souq comes alive in the evening, when twinkling lights and glowing lanterns shine on the hordes gathering to eat, drink, smoke shisha, play backgammon and gossip. To absorb the true Middle Eastern mood, make sure you pay at least one visit at night.

Where To Eat

Dive into the region’s diverse flavours in the souq’s central courtyard, where vendors tempt you with a plethora of gastronomic delights; the samosas and stuffed vine leaves are top-notch.

If street food isn’t your thing, head to Bandar Aden (bandaraden.com) for a masterclass in Yemeni food. Our pick is fahsa – meat stew slow-cooked in clay pots – served with golden, cloud-like bread and salsas, eaten in traditional style sitting on the floor.

Try out Syrian cuisine at Damasca One (damascarestaurant.com), which has a beautiful terrace perfect for people watching. Forgo a main dish. Instead, graze on a selection of the many mezze starters.

For an unforgettable dining experience, it has to be Parisa Souq Waqif. Surrounded by (arguably) Doha’s most decadent decor, feast on Middle Eastern fusion food –think the best kebabs of your life, and a not-to-be-missed walnut-andpomegranate stew.

For more information visit souqwaqif.qa