Cover Feature: The Forthcoming Futurism of Indigenous Fashion

Indigenous fashion is evolving and expanding. But we always find ourselves admiring the history of it by drawing connections between a fashion designer’s culture and how their tribe’s traditional art methods influence their designs. Seldom do we explore what the future of indigenous fashion will become. Once I heard Indigenous Pop X Denver was hosting Indigenous Futurisms Fashion Show sponsored by ACONAV at their event, I contacted my good friend Loren Aragon to ask why it’s essential to consider the future of indigenous fashion and what his take is on it.

BY KELLY HOLMES PHOTOGRAPHY BY VIKI EAGLE MAKEUP & HAIR BY JALEESA GREYBULL

Native American fashion is evolving and expanding. However, in more ways than one, we look into the past of it. We discover how indigenous fashion designers and artisans still practice ancestral traditions such as pottery and parfleche, with many incorporating their tribe’s traditional aesthetics like patterns, symbols, colors, and other art methods into their designs. Seldom is the future of indigenous fashion explored. What will indigenous fashion be in a decade or two? Or in a century? One fashion label who took on the fun and creative challenge of envisioning what indigenous fashion will look like in the future was ACONAV.

ACONAV is a couture fashion brand based out of Phoenix, Arizona, with Acoma Pueblo fashion designer and artist Loren Aragon as its co-creator. ACONAV celebrates the strength and empowerment of women through positive expressions in designs that tie culture to modern style. According to Aragon, the brand’s purpose is to accurately and respectfully represent a part of Native America in fashion. Aragon and his team designed a collection exclusively for the first Indigenous Pop X Denver (IPX) last weekend. This collection was Aragon’s take on what we might expect to be the future of fashion in the Pueblo culture. “I feel there will always be an influence from our culture and we will adapt to the changing world,” explains Aragon. “It’s a simple prediction. I’d call it ‘The Forthcoming’”. The collection draws inspiration from his fascination with sci-fi, aliens, and fantasy spaceage looks. But as always, with culturally-fueled influence from his Acoma Pueblo culture and roots.

I watched Aragon’s “The Forthcoming” showcase debuted on the runway at IPX’s Indigenous Futurisms Fashion Show runway and immediately see what he means. The brand’s signature composition of traditional Acoma Pueblo pottery print and distinctive style of dresses was evident, but there were new pieces that certainly let me know Aragon and his team had pushed the envelope. A jacket featuring full color-hologram shells paired with an airy purple flare skirt captivated the audience. ACONAV intern Iris Jean Smith created a three-piece collection designed with rose gold material and dark blue denim under the mentorship/internship of Aragon for the runway as apart of The Forthcoming collection. And there were a few alluring pairs of ACONAV pants that were included in the collection.

Futurisms Fashion Show at IPX, but he also sponsored it. “The Indigenous Futurisms Fashion Show was a showcase of what designers and artists believe the future of indigenous fashion will be” Aragon explains. But what exactly does the future mean to indigenous people? Aragon answers, “The future can be anything, the discovery of new technology, living in space, adapting to an apocalypse, or living in another world altogether.” The Indigenous Futurisms Fashion Show is a fun and creative challenge to the designers who participate in the showcase, with its mission of challenging the ideas of the viewers, namely the younger generation. “I hope that the designs we showcase become an inspiration to younger generations and aspiring designers. The ultimate statement being that we as native people have survived the hardships of the past, and we are here now and rising to a future where we will still be very much a part of this world or other worlds.”

Three looks from ACONAV’s The Forthcoming collection was featured in this issue’s cover shoot and worn by models Kayah Mangan (Diné) and Michaela Dominguez Iron Shell (Sicangu Lakota) alongside myself. Although the dresses follow ACONAV’s theme, Aragon and his team certainly used fabric traditionally not seen before from the brand. Aragon even paired a shoulder piece and headwear made of black plastic material with a few of the dresses to bring the sci-fi vibe to the looks. The theme of the cover photoshoot featuring Aragon’s dresses was Alien Queens. Jaleesa Greybull (Lakota/Diné), the makeup artist and hairstylist of the shoot, utilized vivid colors such as blue, gray, and orange on the eyes with wingedeyeliner. Each makeup look was complete with bold, thick eyebrows and beautiful lips finished with white painted dots and lines carefully placed throughout the face. This concept was out-of-the-ordinary and fun for the Native Max team, primarily for photographer Viki Eagle (Sicangu Lakota). It was Eagle’s idea to shoot at Babi Yar Park in Denver, CO because of its striking, minimalistic design elements.

ACONAV is an already multi-faceted brand, so I asked Aragon how his newest collection adds more versatility. “This is another means to be able to create. Let the imagination go wild.” All of this was an excellent opportunity for Aragon and his team to test new ideas and work with modern fabrics. “It’s my chance to get a feel for my abilities, to grow and improve. Much of what I learn from all this is then applied to upcoming collections.”