Taste&Flair October 2019

ISSUE 123 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

Colour, light, and beauty

OCTOBER 2019

Food to share · Inspiring design · Pleasure gardens · Sweet nostalgia

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T&F EDITORIAL

Welcome

T

he shifting of the seasons is a reminder that almost nothing is constant. But even though so much changes, sometimes forever, there’s consolation in knowing some things are here to stay. On days that seem dull, grey and ugly, we look for colour, light and beauty, and when crowds, aggression and noise are overwhelming, nature offers respite.

The scent of a garden after the rain, the comfort of home cooked food prepared with care, the beauty and colour of art and design are at once sweetly nostalgic and inspiring. The taste of a favourite cake, the sight of a much-loved colour, the touch of a fabric, and the sounds of a garden can bring comfort and inspire creativity. When Daphne first began publishing her magazines, those are the strands she brought together, at first in Taste, then in Flair, and then in Taste&Flair. Many things are different now, but some things will not change. The colour, light and beauty of Taste&Flair will remain.

We’ll be back on 3rd November.

OCTOBER 2019

Photo by Amy Mallia

ISSUE 123 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

Colour, light, and beauty

Food to share · Inspiring design · Pleasure gardens · Sweet nostalgia

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation c/o 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It

All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of the publication may be reproduced without the prior agreement of the publisher.

Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*.

The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888

“A garden holds a collection of stories, of laughter beneath the branches.” - Megan Mallia (see p. 56)

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ISSUE 123 OCTOBER 2019

*The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

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T&F CONTENTS

CONTENTS FOOD & DRINK

GARDENS, ART & DESIGN

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56

28 31 44 59 63 76

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ISSUE 123 OCTOBER 2019

Lampuki Michael and Edward Diacono’s new ways with a sustainable fish

Fish facts

365 days of everyday cooking and baking Recipes from Meike Peters’ delicious new book

Autumnal goodness Jamie Vella sees in the new season

Choosing Chardonnay Andrew Azzopardi’s taste guide

Brunch in Helsinki Claire Borg’s Finnish flavours

Proustian moments Livia Tabone’s sweet nostalgia

88 98 112 128

Peace, plants & botanical splendour Megan Mallia visits Malahide Gardens

Baroque history Therese Vella revisits the Cathedral Museum’s past

Holm Hotel Carlo Schembri’s new design

Zgharta House A family home in an olive grove

Gauguin’s Portraits How the French artist revolutionised portraiture

T&F QUICK BAKE

Quiche with spinach, raisins and pine nuts Perfect for brunch and parties, this quick and easy quiche is also ideal for a quiet meal for two.

Serves 2 YOU WILL NEED

1 sheet of short-crust pastry 100g raisins 750g spinach 1 carton of single cream 2 eggs grated Parmesan cheese 1 round of Brie 50g pine nuts salt black pepper nutmeg extra virgin olive oil

1. Soak the raisins in water for half

an hour. In the meantime, boil the spinach in a pan with salted water for 5 minutes. Strain and set aside. Beat the eggs and mix them with the single cream and Parmesan cheese. Season to taste.

2. Grease the quiche mould with extra virgin olive oil and line it completely with the short-crust pastry. Preheat the oven to 180ยบC and then bake the pastry for 15 minutes. Leave the oven on, but take out the pastry, which should have turned golden brown.

3. Arrange the spinach, slices of

Brie, raisins and pine nuts on the pastry. Pour the mixture of cream, eggs and Parmesan on top. Bake the quiche in the oven until it sets and starts to turn golden brown.

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T&F IN SEASON

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ISSUE 123 OCTOBER 2019

IN SEASON T&F

LAMPUKI.

Traditionally, lampuki are served chopped into rounds and fried in batter, or filleted and grilled with a dash of olive oil and lemon. For something a little different, try these recipes by Michael Diacono, chef patron, Rubino, Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro, and Mezzodi’, and Edward Diacono, head chef, Rubino Styling and photography by Brian Grech Props: Rubino and Taste&Flair

The lampuki season in Malta stretches from the end of August through to December, so we’ve chosen recipes from the traditional to the slightly more adventurous. Ed and I really hope you try these and make use of the abundance of this modest but sustainable fish.

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T&F IN SEASON

Lampuki fritters with a chimichurri sauce Chimichurri sauce is a salsa verde which originates in meat-eating Argentina and Uruguay. The hot sharp taste infused with the sweetness of green herbs complements the fritters beautifully.

The sauce ingredients are left raw so use the best you can find.

COOKING TIME

SERVES

25

2

MINUTES

PERSONS

WINE SUGGESTION

1er Cru Chablis

FOR THE CHIMICHURRI SAUCE

FOR THE FRITTERS

1 shallot, finely chopped • olive oil 1 red jalapeno pepper finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons fresh or dried oregano half a cup of red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon of sea salt • parsley half a cup of finely chopped coriander

2 skinless and filleted lampuki 1 Maltese loaf, blended (or 2 cups dried breadcrumbs) 2 eggs • zest of half lemon 1 teaspoon of Parmesan cheese, grated parsley • salt & pepper • butter

To make the Chimichurri sauce 1. Combine the shallots, chilli, garlic, vinegar and salt in medium bowl, and let sit for 10 minutes.

2. Stir in the coriander,

To make the fritters

1. Dice the lampuki into small cubes.

2. Blend the Maltese bread till it’s fine

chopped (or use dried breadcrumbs).

parsley and oregano.

3. In a large bowl, combine the chopped

3. Using a fork, whisk the oil into

lampuki with the eggs, Parmesan cheese, parsley, lemon zest and seasoning.

the other ingredients and season with salt and pepper to taste.

4. Lastly, add the breadcrumbs till

the mixture thickens, and shape it into round medium-sized patties.

5. Heat the butter and olive oil

together in a frying pan (this stops the butter from burning) and slowly bring the pan to a high heat.

6. Once the pan is hot, place the

patties into it and fry them on each side till golden brown. This will take approximately 5 minutes on either side. Serve immediately with Chimichurri sauce on the side.

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IN SEASON T&F

Taste&Flair note Lampuki should be bought when very fresh, and preferably eaten within a couple of days rather than frozen for future use. Though they keep well in the freezer, they are then best used for pies rather than for grilling or frying. You can tell a fresh lampuka by its eyes, which are bright; the body is firm and shiny, the gills are a dark, moist red, and there is a definite sea-scent about it.

ISSUE 123 OCTOBER 2019

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T&F IN SEASON

Lampuki Involtini with Salsa Picante PREPARATION & COOKING

SERVES

25

2

MINUTES

PERSONS

Cru Beaujolais such as Fleurie

FOR THE INVOLTINI

FOR THE SALSA PICANTE

1 large filleted lampuka a handful of blended pistachios salt and pepper a tablespoon of grated Parmesan cheese flour to dust the fish

1 small can tomato polpa • 1 onion 1 tablespoon capers • 1 aubergine a pinch of chilli • 1 garlic clove fresh mint and basil • 1 tablespoon sugar salt and pepper

To make the involtini

To make the salsa picante

1. Place fillets onto your work

1. Heat up some olive oil in a small pot.

top with the skin side down.

Peel and chop the aubergine. Add it to the pot and cook it until it turns golden.

2. Season the fish with salt and pepper.

3. Coat the fillets in a mix of blended

pistachios and Parmesan cheese.

4. Roll the fillets into tight swirl,

dust through flour and pan fry, browning all all over and ensuring that the fillets don’t unravel.

5. Cook for around 5 to 8 minutes.

6. Remove the involtini from the

pan and serve with salsa picante.

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WINE SUGGESTION

ISSUE 123 OCTOBER 2019

2. Add onions, garlic, capers and chilli

and cook down for 2 minutes.

3. Add 1 can of tomato polpa and

season with salt, pepper and sugar.

Let the pot simmer for 10 minutes.

4. Finally, add the fresh herbs

and season to taste.

IN SEASON T&F

ISSUE 123 OCTOBER 2019

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T&F IN SEASON

Polenta-dusted lampuki in a saffron and apple butter The secret of this simple recipe lies in the saffron. Use a super quality and you will be rewarded with a fragrant and beautifully coloured dish.

PREPARATION & COOKING

SERVES

40

4

MINUTES

PERSONS

WINE SUGGESTION

lightly oaked Pouilly FuissĂŠ

YOU WILL NEED

150g unsalted butter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 lampuka of approx.

2 kg, filleted polenta to dust a sprig or 2 of rosemary salt and pepper 1 red apple, sliced thinly salt and pepper 1 glass dry white wine 0.5g Iranian saffron

1. Melt 75g of the butter gently in a large frying pan with the olive oil.

2. Dust the fish lightly

in polenta and transfer to the pan. Add the rosemary and fry gently for 4 minutes. Season.

3. Turn the fillets over

and add the apple. Douse with the white wine and sizzle for 4 minutes.

4. Soak the saffron in

2 tablespoons of warm water for 2 minutes then add to the fish.

5. Mix gently before adding

the remaining cold butter.

Reduce till slightly thickened and serve at once.

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NEW

T&F IN SEASON

Lampuki Tortellini in broth This is a light but tasty starter using freshly made fish stock. When buying your fish, ask your fishmonger for some extra bones and lampuki heads to make up the stock.

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PREPARATION & COOKING

SERVES

75

4

MINUTES

PERSONS

ISSUE 123 OCTOBER 2019

WINE SUGGESTION

Spanish or Italian Rosé

IN SEASON T&F

FOR THE PASTA AL UOVO

300g flour 3 whole eggs 1 pinch of salt olive oil extra flour for dusting the worktop surface FOR THE FILLING

1 skinless and filleted lampuka, finely chopped parsley salt and pepper 1 teaspoon of pecorino cheese 1 egg FOR THE BROTH

uncooked lampuki bones and heads 1 onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 potato, peeled and diced 1 table spoon tomato paste (kunserva) a few leaves of mint basil and parsley salt and pepper chilli (optional)

To make the tortellini 1. Whisk the 3 eggs in a bowl, whisking briskly in between adding each one.

2. In a bowl, add the flour and salt.

Make a little well shape in middle and pour in the whisked eggs.

Mix everything together, adding a drizzle of olive oil as you go along.

3. As the ingredients work together,

To make the broth

1. Put the fish bones and heads into

a medium-sized cooking pot and fill it half way up with water. Bring the pot to a boil and let it simmer for 20 minutes to make fish stock.

2. In a second pot, cook the onions,

carrots and potato together with olive oil and let them soften.

remove the pastry from the bowl and knead with the palm of your hand for another 5 minutes. Leave the dough to rest in the fridge for 10 minutes.

3. Add the garlic and tomato paste

4. Mix the raw chopped lampuki, parsley,

pot, passing it through a sieve first to remove any bones.

pecorino cheese, salt and pepper and an egg together to combine. This is the filling for your tortellini.

5. Take the pastry out of the fridge,

and use a pasta machine to open it out, repeating the process till it gets thin enough for you to just about see your hand through the pastry.

You will need to change the machine settings from thick to thin as you go along. If you do not have a pasta machine, a rolling pin will do.

to the vegetable pot, and cook it down for another 5 minutes.

4. Add the fish stock to the vegetable

5. Add salt and pepper and let the pot

simmer for half an hour on a low heat.

6. Finally, add the finely

chopped fresh herbs.

7. Bring the liquid to a boil and then put

in the tortellini to cook for 2 minutes.

8. Ladle the broth into bowls and

serve with 3 tortellini per portion.

6. Flour your surface, and lay out

the opened pastry. Use the top part of a cup (or a pasta cutter with a diameter of about 8cm if you have one) and cut out 12 circles. This allows for 3 tortellini per serving.

7. Place about a teaspoon of filling onto

the middle of your pasta circle. Brush the outer sides of the pasta with egg wash, and fold the pastry over to make a half circle. Make sure there are no air bubbles.

Bring the corners of the pasta together, enclosing the stuffing in the middle.

Brush the end points with egg wash and press them together to keep them from opening up again while cooking

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T&F IN SEASON

Individual Lampuki Pies These are perfect for days when you want comfort food but it’s still too warm for full-sized lampuki pies. You will need individual Dariol moulds to make these.

PREPARATION & COOKING

SERVES

60

2

MINUTES

PERSONS (1 PIE PER SERVING)

WINE SUGGESTION

Maltese Sauvignon Blanc or unoaked Chardonnay

1. Cut the aubergines into small cubes,

place them into a small pot with oil on a high heat and cook until soft.

2. Add the onions and garlic to

the pot, stir, and then add the tomato paste and stir again.

YOU WILL NEED

1 lampuka, filleted and skinned 1 small cauliflower 1 onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped a handful of walnuts a handful of raisins 2 table spoons tomato paste (kunserva) spinach (fresh or frozen) 1 small aubergine fresh mint, basil, thyme and parsley shop bought puff pastry sheets

3. Break up the cauliflower into

small florets and add them to the mix. Stir lightly.

4. Cook the mixture for 5 minutes,

then season it with salt and pepper.

5. Add the spinach, raisins

and broken walnuts.

6. Cut the raw lampuki into chunks

and add them to the mixture along with the fresh herbs, and mix everything together.

7. Butter your Dariol moulds and

line them with the puff pastry sheet, ensuring that it covers the whole surface area, including the top edge, folding over slightly.

8. Brush the pastry top with

eggwash and cook at 180°C in the oven for 25 minutes.

9. Once the pies are cooked and golden,

bring them out of the oven. Use a knife to help remove the pies out of their moulds carefully and serve at once.

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T&F IN SEASON

Lampuki Tartare in a Kataifi Nest Kataifi can be made by shredding phyllo pastry very finely, but it’s a fiddly process and the pastry needs to be kept from drying out while you shred it.

Ready-made kataifi can be found in some of the larger supermarkets.

COOKING TIME

SERVES

10

2

MINUTES

PERSONS

WINE SUGGESTION

Spanish Albariño

YOU WILL NEED

1. Butter a small, heat-proof bowl and line it with the

1 filleted and skinless lampuka 1 pinch of red peppercorns parsley salt & pepper juice of 1 lemon olive oil butter kataifi pastry

kataifi pastry in a circular direction to shape the nest.

Bake this for 2 minutes till golden, remove the bowl from the oven and set the nest aside to cool.

2. Dice the lampuki, and add the red peppercorns, parsley,

salt, pepper, and lemon juice together in a bowl to season.

3. Carefully place the nest and fill it with the seasoned

lampuki, with a light drizzle of olive oil. ■

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Š 2019 McDonald's Corporation.

All pictures shown are for illustration purpose only. Actual products may vary.

T&F IN SEASON

DORADO, DOLPHIN FISH, MAHI-MAHI

Lampuki are migratory fish, swimming across the Atlantic between the Mediterranean and the Caribbean where they grow up to some 45Kg in size

T

he scientific name of the lampuka most common in the Mediterranean – the one we buy and eat - is Coryphaena hippurus. There’s another kind of lampuka, which fishermen know as lampuka rara, the Coryphaena equisetis. The English name is the dolphin-fish (and Pompano dolphin-fish for the rara), but this is only a technicality.

English-speaking people in general are not at all familiar with this fish, unless they are from the Caribbean region or the Mediterranean, which means that the name ‘dolphin-fish’ causes confusion in any case. The name dorado is sometimes used, but even this can lead to mix-ups in identity, as dorado is occasionally used for other kinds of fish.

In the Caribbean, the fish are called mahi-mahi, mahi being the Hawaiian word for ‘strong’. They are abundant in the warm tropical and sub-tropical waters around the Caribbean islands, Mexico and the Gulf Coast of Florida, where they are caught commercially, because of their size, by hook-and-line.

The Maltese name lampuka comes from the Sicilian alampuca/ alampuja, which in turn comes from the Italian lampuca/lampuga/ lambuca. The word lampuga is also known in Spanish and SerboCroat. Despite its abundance in Mediterranean waters, this fish

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is rare in fish markets in Spain, France, Italy, Greece and North Africa, where there seems to be low culinary demand for it, and hardly ever listed on restaurant menus. This is in direct contrast to the Caribbean and Florida area, where it is the dominant fish for the table, and to Malta and Sicily, where it is very popular.

Lampuki are migratory fish, swimming across the Atlantic between the Caribbean and the Mediterranean, which they enter through the Straits of Gibraltar.

They spawn in warm ocean currents through much of the year, and breed in the Mediterranean probably in June and July. They stay in the Mediterranean for some months, until they reach a certain size, and those which survive fishing and being eaten by larger fish then swim out of the Mediterranean, across the Atlantic, and to the American continent.

That’s why we know lampuki to be fairly average-sized fish – we only see the young ones - but in the Caribbean they are huge, reaching a length of around 120cm, or five feet, and a weight of 45kg. At that great size, they are also clearly golden, which allows us to see why they got the name dorado, which means ‘golden’ – something that isn’t immediately obvious to people in the Mediterranean who see them only as fairly small greyish fish with some blue and green translucence on the sides and back. When lampuki are removed from the water, they change colour, finally fading to a muted yellow-grey after they die.

The distinguishing characteristic between the male and the female is the head: the male head is rounded, protruding well above the body in maturity, while the female head slopes down towards the mouth, though this is more evident when the lampuki are very large. They live for three to four years. n

The Maltese name lampuka comes from the Sicilian alampuca/ alampuja, which in turn comes from the Italian lampuca/ lampuga/ lambuca.

PEOPLE T&F

MEETING

Meike Peters

Meike Peters is a food and travel writer. She lives in Berlin and is a frequent visitor to Malta. Her first book Eat in My Kitchen won a James Beard Award in 2017. Taste&Flair met her just before she launched her latest book, “365, A Year of Everyday Cooking & Baking.”

ISSUE 123 OCTOBER 2019

31

T&F PEOPLE

M

“Good oil is one eeting Meike Peters is like sinking into “Homemade broth is a favourite armchair. It feels like you’ve very convenient. Make it of the best things to have in your always known her. There’s something comforting once in a while and keep it pantry. And about talking about food with someone who so in the freezer for making obviously loves what she does. The conversation soups or risotto. You can salt flakes. Gozo salt flakes are flows quickly and easily, and there’s lots to talk easily make it thicker or really tasty.” about. 365 days’ worth, to be exact. thinner depending on 365 is the title of Meike’s new book: 12 what you’re cooking, or chapters split into weeks with a new recipe for add flavour with another every single day. That bare description doesn’t ingredient, like goose fat. Maple syrup and do it justice. The book’s filled with beautiful elderflower syrup. Dark balsamic and white photography Meike styled and shot, mostly in balsamic vinegars. A vinaigrette made with 3 her kitchen at home in Berlin. The perennial parts oil to 2 parts vinegar, a recipe I got from question “what shall we cook tonight” sparked my mother. Tahini. Capers. Canned legumes like the idea for her latest book. chickpeas and white butter beans. Beans with In two days, she had a recipe list long enough orange, salt and thyme make a very tasty and to fill “a year with everyday cooking and baking”. convenient meal.”

Putting the book together was another matter She’s a fan of what she calls “what do we – an intense effort involving cooking, styling have” cooking, using up whatever ingredients and photographing 8 different dishes daily. “The are available at home. “I love roasted vegetables,” photoshoots were unplanned and feedback was she says. “You come home, see what roots you instant,” Meike says. “Our friends would come have, chop them up and roast them with olive round to share the food so it felt like an endless oil, and it’s done. Leftover herbs can be turned party.” into a pesto. If you keep it covered with oil, it The book reflects the rhythm of daily life – lasts for days and can be used in pasta, salads and simple dining during the week when you’re busy, as toast topping with poached eggs. Anything and longer, lazier recipes for the weekend when macerated with oil makes the ingredients last there’s more time to enjoy being in the kitchen. longer, whether as sauces or dressing. And it The front cover photo is a throwback to Meike’s reduces food waste.” days as an architecture student in Cologne: “I She likes to use ingredients from Malta, like loved quiche because it’s relatively easy to make fennel seeds, and “uses oranges a lot, including but feels special. It’s satisfying comfort food.” zest by the spoonful”, as in her coriander At home in Berlin, cooking cumin meatloaf with dates works as a cure for the Sunday and oranges. There’s more in blues. If you still hate Sunday the book like Maltese ricotta evenings because of memories pie that will sound familiar of schooldays, make dough to anyone who grew up here. and bake pizza. It works as an There are warm salads, and antidote. beach sandwiches, an endless Cooking from scratch stream of colour and tempting needs a well-stocked larder. tastes.

What does Meike keep in her Me i ke ’s a p p ro ac h to kitchen? “Seasonal ingredients cooking is painterly, putting like citrus fruit,” she says. together ingredients in ways “Fresh herbs. Root vegetables. that feel right. In her book, the Beets, for instance, are the colours of the food brighten up winter version of the tomato. as the seasons progress, but Meike Peters has dedicated her You always keep tomatoes in she says it’s instinctive, rather new book to the memory and the summer. In winter, it’s than planned: “I didn’t think work of Taste&Flair’s founder, beetroots. I usually have some about colour composition. It Daphne Caruana Galizia. beets cooked and ready in the just came together the way fridge. All they need are olive it did.” The food is rooted ‘365: A Year of Everyday oil and salt flakes. Good oil is in traditional cooking but is Cooking & Baking’ is published one of the best things to have experimental and unfussy.

by Prestel and will be released in your pantry. And salt flakes.

The beauty of these recipes is on 8th October. The book has Gozo salt flakes are really tasty. that they are not prescriptive, already featured at the top but open to creative use of of The New York Times’ list whatever’s available at home.

Meike’s approach to of the best cookbooks out Think of them as elements, cooking is painterly, this autumn. All recipes in rather than as a set of putting together 365 were cooked, styled, instructions, and you’ll eat ingredients in ways and shot by the author. well every day of the year. that feel right. www.meikepeters.com

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ISSUE 123 OCTOBER 2019

IN SEASON T&F

Season

Roasted squash wedges with feta, cumin oil, and pistachios

IN

Food and photography

by Meike Peters

Taste&Flair note: The cooking times are approximate and do not include preparation.

Squash, feta, and pistachios are a tasty trio, and roasting the vegetable on top of a thick slice of the Greek cheese for half an hour turns it into a quick after-work dinner. Double the recipe and you can stir leftovers into a bowl of warm spaghetti.

Serves 2-3 Cooking 30 minutes

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2. In a large bowl, whisk

YOU WILL NEED

olive oil 1½ teaspoons ground cumin 600g seeded squash, preferably peeled butternut or Hokkaido with skin, cut into 2.5 cm-wedges 1 slice feta (140-g) flaky sea salt coarsely ground pepper 30g salted pistachios, roughly chopped

together 75 ml of olive oil and the cumin. Add the squash and toss to combine.

3. Place the feta in the middle

of a medium baking dish and arrange the squash on top of and around the cheese.

4. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of

olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper then roast for about 30 minutes or until the squash is golden and tender.

5. Sprinkle with the pistachios

and serve warm or cold.

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T&F IN SEASON

Season IN

Cooking 60 minutes Serves 3-6 FOR THE SOUP

olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 large cloves garlic, cut in half 400g seeded and peeled squash, preferably butternut or Hokkaido, cut into very small cubes 200g yellow split peas (no soaking required) 1.5 litres unsalted vegetable broth, hot 2 bay leaves 2 whole cloves 1 small bunch fresh marjoram sprigs, plus 2 tablespoons marjoram leaves for the topping fine sea salt finely ground pepper FOR THE ONIONS

olive oil 2 large red onions, cut in half and thinly sliced 2 tablespoons maple syrup 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar FOR THE WHIPPED GORGONZOLA

60g Gorgonzola 60g mascarpone 75ml heavy cream 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt

1. For the soup, heat a splash of olive oil in a large pot over

medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes or until golden and soft. Add the squash and sauté, stirring constantly, for 1 minute.

2. Add the yellow split peas, hot broth, bay leaves,

cloves, and marjoram sprigs. Bring to a boil, cover, then reduce the heat and simmer for 35 minutes or until the squash and split peas are soft. Remove and discard the bay leaves, cloves, and marjoram sprigs then season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm.

3. For the onions, heat a generous splash of olive oil

in a medium, heavy pan over medium heat and cook the onions, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes.

Add the maple syrup and vinegar and cook for 10 minutes or until golden brown and soft.

4. For the whipped Gorgonzola, whisk together the Gorgonzola,

mascarpone, heavy cream, and salt until smooth.

5. Divide the soup among bowls and top with the onions

and a dollop of the whipped Gorgonzola. Sprinkle with the marjoram leaves and serve immediately.

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Split pea and squash soup with maple onions, gorgonzola, and marjoram Split peas and squash love to mingle in a cosy soup.

It’s a nutty, heart-warming meal, and when you top it off with maple onions, whipped Gorgonzola, and marjoram, it becomes a lavish starter for a dinner party with friends.

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T&F IN SEASON

Roasted squash, shallot, and radicchio salad with Stilton As winter squash season begins, orange, green, and yellow butternut, acorn, and Hokkaido squash take over our kitchen’s windowsill and I need to have a pile of recipes at hand to keep the fresh supply under control. I often chop up a whole squash, roast it in the oven, and use it for quiche, pesto, crespelle, or hearty salads. When you toss the tender flesh with roasted shallots, radicchio, and Stilton, you can enjoy a light lunch or dinner that’s bursting with colour and flavour.

Season IN

Cooking 30 minutes Serves 2-4 FOR THE SALAD

340g seeded squash, preferably peeled butternut or Hokkaido with skin, cut into 2.5 cm-wedges 8 shallots, unpeeled, cut in half lengthwise 75ml olive oil flaky sea salt finely ground pepper 140g radicchio, soft leaves only, torn into pieces 1 large, firm pear, cored and cut into thin wedges 60g Stilton, crumbled 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves FOR THE DRESSING

3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon honey fine sea salt finely ground pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2. For the salad, spread the

squash on one side of a large baking dish and the shallots on the other side. Drizzle with the olive oil and toss to combine, keeping the squash and shallots separate. Season generously with flaky sea salt and pepper and roast for 15 minutes.

3. Flip the squash and shallots

over and continue roasting for 10 to 15 minutes or until golden and tender. Transfer the squash to a plate. Let the shallots cool for a few minutes then peel and add to the squash.

4. For the dressing, whisk

together the olive oil, both vinegars, and the honey and season to taste with fine sea salt and pepper.

5. Divide the radicchio, pear,

squash, and shallots among plates, arranging them in overlapping layers. Sprinkle with the Stilton and thyme, drizzle with the dressing, and serve immediately.

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T&F IN SEASON

Squash and Taleggio quiche with crispy sage There’s a reason why there are so many quiche recipes in this book.

It was one of the first dishes that I learned to bake and eventually master, as I moved out into the world during my university years.

Quiche has been a reliable companion throughout my life and it’s helped me celebrate the ups and overcome the downs. It’s the best comfort food I know, plus it’s adaptable to moods and seasons. At the peak of autumn, squash, Taleggio, and sage are an unbeatable combination.

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2. For the filling, spread the squash

in a large baking dish, drizzle with the olive oil, and toss to combine.

Season to taste with flaky sea salt and pepper and roast for 15 minutes. then flip the squash and continue roasting for 10 to 15 minutes or until golden and tender. Set aside.

3. For the pastry, combine the flour

and fine sea salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment. Add the butter and use a knife to cut it into the flour until there are just small pieces left.

Quickly rub the butter into the flour with your fingers until combined.

Add the egg and mix with the hook until crumbly. Form the dough into a thick disc, wrap it in plastic wrap, and freeze it for 10 minutes.

4. On a work surface, place the dough

between 2 sheets of plastic wrap and use a rolling pin to roll out into a disc large enough to line the bottom and sides of a 30 cm-quiche dish.

5. Fit the dough into the quiche dish,

pushing it into the dish, especially along the edges. Let the dough hang over the rim a little or trim with a knife. Use a fork to prick the dough all over. Bake for 15 minutes or until golden. If the dough bubbles up, push it down with a fork. Take the quiche dish out of the oven and reduce the heat to 180°C. 6. In a medium bowl, whisk

together the eggs, sour cream, heavy cream, and fine sea salt and season to taste with pepper and a generous amount of nutmeg.

7. Arrange the squash in a circle on top

Season IN

Cooking 75-85 minutes • Serves 4-8

of the pre-baked pastry and sprinkle with the cheese. Pour the egg mixture over the squash and bake for 45 to 55 minutes or until golden brown and firm. Take the quiche out of the oven and let it sit at least 10 minutes.

FOR THE FILLING

600g seeded squash, preferably peeled butternut or Hokkaido with skin, cut into 2.5 cm-wedges 1 tablespoon olive oil • flaky sea salt • finely ground pepper • 3 large eggs • 120ml heavy cream 175g sour cream (or crème fraîche) • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt • nutmeg, preferably freshly grated 140g mild, sweet cheese that melts well, such as Taleggio, Fontina, or Robiola, diced 50g unsalted butter • 50 large fresh sage leaves FOR THE PASTRY

260g all-purpose flour • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt • 130g unsalted butter, cold • 1 large egg

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8. In a large saucepan, heat the butter

over medium-high heat, add the sage, and cook, stirring gently, for 20 to 30 seconds or until golden, green, and crispy—mind that the leaves don’t burn. Spread the sage on top of the quiche, sprinkle with a little pepper, and serve warm or cold.

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T&F IN SEASON

Squash-pesto sandwich with dates and chèvre

Season IN

Velvety smooth winter squash is packed with flavour and practically destined to be turned into pesto.

You can use canned pumpkin purée, but homemade always tastes better. Refine it with orange and thyme to add some excitement. I’m sure stirring it into warm spaghetti would be scrumptious, but I prefer to spread this golden pesto on a sandwich and finish it off with juicy dates and aged Sainte-Maure de Touraine chèvre.

Cooking 20-30 minutes Makes 2-3 sandwiches FOR THE PUMPKIN PESTO

340g seeded and peeled squash, preferably butternut or Hokkaido, cut into 2.5 cm-cubes 2 tablespoons pumpkin seeds 2 tablespoons olive oil ¼ to ½ teaspoon freshly grated orange zest 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed orange juice 1½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves fine sea salt parchment paper

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FOR THE SANDWICHES

2 to 3 spelt or rye buns, cut in half 80g aged chèvre, preferably Sainte-Maure de Touraine, thinly sliced 4 large juicy dates, pitted and cut into quarters 1 tablespoon pumpkin seeds 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves coarsely ground pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2. Place the squash in a

medium baking dish and cover the bottom of the dish with a little water. Soak a large piece of parchment paper with water, squeeze it, and then use to cover the squash. Roast for 20 to 30 minutes or until soft then transfer to a food processor or blender.

3. Add the pumpkin seeds,

olive oil, ¼ teaspoon of the orange zest, the orange juice, and thyme and purée until smooth. Season to taste with additional orange zest and salt and transfer to a small bowl.

4. Spread the pumpkin pesto

generously on the bottom half of each bun, top with the chèvre, and sprinkle with the dates, pumpkin seeds, thyme, and pepper. Place a top on each bun and enjoy.

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T&F IN SEASON

Season IN

Cooking 55 minutes Serves 2-4 FOR THE FILLING

560g seeded squash, preferably peeled butternut or Hokkaido with skin, cut into 1.25 cm-cubes olive oil fine sea salt finely ground pepper 30g unsalted butter 40 large fresh sage leaves 4 heaped tablespoons fresh ricotta 100g Parmesan, coarsely grated FOR THE BÉCHAMEL SAUCE

600ml whole milk 1 large bay leaf nutmeg, preferably freshly grated fine sea salt finely ground pepper 30g unsalted butter 30g all-purpose flour FOR THE CRESPELLE

150ml whole milk 2 large eggs 130g all-purpose flour, sifted ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt unsalted butter, to cook the crespelle

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C

and line a medium baking dish with parchment paper.

2. For the filling, spread

the squash in the lined baking dish. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, season to taste with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Roast for 25 minutes or until tender.

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3. For the béchamel sauce,

combine the milk, bay leaf, ¼ teaspoon of nutmeg, ¼ tea-spoon of salt, and a pinch of pepper in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil.

Immediately take the pan off the heat, remove and discard the bay leaf, and set aside.

4. To make the roux for the

béchamel, melt the butter in a separate medium saucepan over medium-high heat and as soon as it’s sizzling hot, whisk in the flour. Slowly pour the hot milk mixture into the roux and whisk until smooth. Simmer on low heat, whisking occasionally, for 2 to 3 minutes or until the texture starts to thicken. Season to taste with nutmeg, salt, and pepper then cover and set aside.

5. For the crespelle, in the

bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whisk together the milk, eggs, flour, and salt until smooth. Let the batter sit for 10 minutes before you cook the crespelle.

6. In a large cast-iron pan

or nonstick skillet, melt 1 teaspoon of butter over medium-high heat. Pour in ¼ of the batter, tilting and turning the pan, so that the batter spreads evenly and very thinly. Cook the crespelle for 30 to 60 seconds per side or until golden then transfer to a large plate. Use the remaining batter to make 3 more crespelle, adjusting

the heat as necessary and adding 1 teaspoon of butter to the pan between crespelle.

7. For the filling, in a small

saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of butter over medium-high heat and cook the sage leaves, stirring gently, for 20 to 30 seconds or until golden, green, and crispy—mind that the leaves don’t burn.

8. Place the 4 crespelle on

a work surface. Divide the squash cubes among the crespelle, spreading them evenly and leaving a thin border around the edges.

Sprinkle each crespelle with 2½ tablespoons of béchamel sauce, 1 heaped tablespoon of ricotta, 5 crispy sage leaves, and 1/5 of the Parmesan. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

9. Roll the crespelle into tight

wraps and arrange them, side by side, in a medium baking dish. Sprinkle the remaining béchamel sauce and Parmesan over the crespelle and bake for 12 minutes or until golden and the sauce is set.

10. To brown the cheese a little, switch on the broiler for the last 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining crispy sage leaves and serve. ■

Squash-ricotta crespelle with sage Roasted squash paired with ricotta, creamy béchamel, Parmesan, and crispy sage makes the most addictive autumn crespelle. It’s a bit more labour-intensive than lasagna — you have to bake the thin crêpes first — but every single bite proves the effort is worth it.

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

Autumnal Goodness Whether cooking for friends or for one, Jamie Vella’s colourful, comforting food makes shorter autumn days seem longer and brighter Styling and photography: Amy Mallia and Megan Mallia

These are some of my favourite recipes.

They’re what I like to cook whenever I have friends over or when I feel like something good after a day at work. I love the taste of garlic so I always use lots in my cooking. If you prefer a milder taste, use less than the amounts I used here.

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

Linguini with pistacchio pesto Everyone seems to be going through a bit of a pistachio craze at the moment. We’re rubbing it into meat, stuffing it into croissants and turning it into milk. In the age of “everything pistachio” this recipe is a favourite of mine whenever a friend is coming over for a light dinner, and it’s never let me down. When I’m in a hurry I usually soak raw pistachios for about an hour in hot water before processing.

However, it’s better to soak them overnight. Adding sautéed cherry tomatoes at the end adds a subtle sweetness which contrasts nicely with the nutty flavour of the pistachios. Linguini pasta works fabulously in this dish.

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Serves 2 as a starter Preparation and cooking: 25 minutes YOU WILL NEED

1 cupful unshelled raw pistachios 1 handful spinach 1 handful fresh basil juice of half a lemon 2 cloves garlic a handful of cherry tomatoes olive oil • salt and pepper 150g linguini

1. Soak the raw pistachios in warm

water, ideally overnight. If you’re pressed for time, soaking them for just an hour before processing is enough.

2. Drain the pistachios, then put them

into a blender with the spinach, basil, garlic, lemon juice and olive oil. Blend it well, adding a little more liquid if the pesto is too lumpy. Store this in the fridge unless you’re using it right away.

3. Now, set a deep pot of water on the boil

“This recipe is a favourite of mine whenever a friend is coming over for a light dinner, and it’s never let me down.”

and add the linguini, pushing the pasta down into the water as it starts to soften.

4. A few minutes before the pasta’s

done, halve the cherry tomatoes and quickly sautée them in a shallow pan brushed with olive oil. Add the pistachio pesto and give it a quick stir.

5. Drain the linguini, toss with the pistachio

pesto and tomatoes, and serve at once.

Concours Mondial Bruxelles The United Nations of Fine Wine 2019

FRESH T&F

Tomato and pomegranate salad The ripeness of Maltese tomatoes combined with the tangy freshness of pomegranate and mint is the perfect light autumn salad for those still reminiscing over simpler summer days. This dish is ideal as part of a meze of other small dishes such as hummus and olives for a gathering with friends, or alternatively served as a salad on its own.

Serves 2 Preparation 20 minutes

1. In a salad bowl combine the

tomatoes, pomegranate, mint, onion and yellow pepper and toss well.

YOU WILL NEED

4 large plum tomatoes, washed and roughly chopped arils of 1 pomegranate a handful of chopped mint 1 red onion, finely chopped 1 yellow pepper, deseeded and chopped extra virgin olive oil balsamic vinegar

2. Drizzle with good quality extra

virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar and season with salt and pepper.

3. Store this in the fridge until

needed and serve slightly chilled.

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

Lemon and garlic asparagus There are vegetables, there’s asparagus.

Need I say more?

Use freshly grown asaparagus, if you can get your hands on some. Otherwise, the kind you find in supermarket vegetable sections will do.

Serves 2 as a starter Preparation and cooking: 20 minutes

YOU WILL NEED

1 bunch fresh asparagus juice of one lemon 4 large cloves of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped half a cup of pine nuts salt and pepper olive oil

1. Personally I don’t like

3. In the same pan,

asparagus to be too firm so I usually boil it for just under 3 minutes before frying.

If you prefer asparagus to be fun and crunchy, go ahead and skip this step.

heat some olive oil over medium heat then add the asparagus, tossing them for around 5 minutes.

2. In a shallow frying pan,

add the pine nuts and toss them for a few minutes until they’ve nicely browned. Tip them into a dish to stop them cooking and set them aside.

“Use freshly grown asaparagus, if you can get your hands on some.”

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4. Add the garlic and stir

for about a minute, then add half the lemon juice.

Season generously with salt and pepper. When some of the liquid has evaporated, add the remaining juice.

5. Stir in the pine nuts

and serve hot garnished with lemon zest.

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

“As the days get shorter and cooler and nothing seems sure, this hearty curry is just what we’d need after a long day at work.”

Green vegetable mint curry If there was ever a time to enjoy a curry, it’s now.

As the days get shorter and cooler and nothing seems sure, this hearty curry is just what we’d need after a long day at work. My spinoff of green curry is shamelessly abundant in ingredients, but bear with me. They all somehow blend fabulously and the result is a satisfying and nourishing bowl of goodness.

Serves 2 Preparation and cooking: 40 minutes YOU WILL NEED

3 spring onions, chopped 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 small aubergine, cubed 1 zucchini, cubed 1 large sweet potato, cubed 1 tablespoon green curry paste 1 tin chickpeas, drained 100ml coconut milk 1 table spoon sriracha hot sauce 1 table spoon dark soy sauce 1 large handful fresh mint, coarsely chopped 200g basmati rice fresh lime wedges fresh chilli peppers, chopped (adjust the amount to taste)

1. Basmati rice takes around

4. Add the drained chickpeas

20-25 minutes to cook. Once all your vegetables and peeled and chopped and you’re ready to start cooking, set your rice on the boil so it’ll be ready once your curry’s done.

and green curry paste, stirring well and breaking up any lumps in the mixture.

2. In a wok or a medium-

sized pan, fry the aubergine until lightly browned and tender. Add the spring onions and garlic, stir and cook for a further 5 minutes.

3. Next, add the diced

zucchini and sweet potato and continue to cook, stirring, for a further 10 mins over medium heat until the vegetables are browned.

5. Add the coconut milk,

turn down the heat to low, cover the pan and let simmer for another 10 mins.

6. 5 minutes before serving

stir in the sriracha sauce, soy sauce and mint.

7. Serve with basmati

rice and garnished with chopped chilli and with lime wedges on the side.

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

This dish is inspired by the Northern Italian Tortelli di Zucca e amaretti. If you don’t have the time to make up your own tortellini, use the filling as a sauce with storebought paccheri. Let’s face it, it’s 2019. How many of us actually have the time to make our own fresh pasta?

Adding crushed amaretti biscuits to the pumpkin purée gives this dish a bit of crunch and a creative edge.

Serves 2-3, depending on portion size Preparation and cooking 45 minutes YOU WILL NEED

250g paccheri 400g pumpkin, peeled, deseeded, and diced 4 cloves of garlic, unskinned 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg a small handful of sage leaves, washed and patted dry 1 tablespoon nutritional yeast salt and pepper 4 small amaretti biscuits (optional)

1. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C.

Place the cubed pumpkin and garlic cloves (with the skin still on) in a roasting tray. Drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and roast for about 10-15 minutes, until the pumpkin has browned slightly and become tender.

2. Remove the roasting tray from

the oven, peel the garlic and put the roasted pumpkin and garlic into a processor together with the nutmeg and olive oil. Blend all the ingredients together until you get a smooth velvety texture. Add the crushed amaretti biscuits, if you’re using them.

3. In a pan, heat some olive oil and lightly fry the sage leaves.

Right before the leaves start to brown, add the pumpkin purée mixture and turn off the heat.

4. Boil the paccheri until al

dente (around 8 minutes), drain the pasta, then mix it with the pumpkin purée and serve it immediately garnished with a sage leaf.

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T&F GARDENS

PEACE, PLANTS AND BOTANICAL SPLENDOUR Gardens are a glorious refuge from the outside world. Each garden reflects the character of any hand that once looked after them and tells its own story.

Text: Megan Mallia Photography: Megan Mallia and Daphne Caruana Galizia

G

ardens are soothing to the soul. The sight of morning dew on a hibiscus flower is refreshing; the scent of jasmine floating on the evening air is comforting.

For thousands of years gardens have been a celebration of harmony and aesthetics in nature – a quiet, peaceful sort of celebration. With their warbling birds and the lapping of fountain water, gardens were planned as calming spaces and as a glorious refuge from the outside world.

Today, gardens are also an escape from the intrusive sounds of cars and commotion. We turn towards the precious few green spaces we still have left not just because we need their oxygen to breathe but because they are a place of peace where the only sound you can hear is nature.

A room with plants has life. A city with gardens has a soul.

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GARDENS T&F

“Somewhere between right and wrong there is a garden, and I will meet you there” - Rumi

A garden holds a collection of stories, of laughter beneath the branches…of care, of hope, of a day spent harvesting olives.

I love visiting gardens when I travel and recently spent a few hours in the grounds of Malahide Castle in Ireland. It was raining when I arrived but the effect was magical: sparkling threads of water beads falling softly to the grassy ground against a backdrop of green and the grey castle stone. I savoured the satisfying crunch the dry oak leaves made underfoot along the path. The smell that lifted off the ground from the light rain shower was sweet with earthy undertones, a scent known as petrichor, a name derived from the Greek word petra for stone and īchōr for the blood of the gods in mythology.

Nearby, gardeners tended to the parterre, digging up the gravel in places, tucking away the growth in others, reshaping the intricate pattern copied from a design in the wood panelling in the castle’s Oak Room. It’s wonderful to know that the gardeners are nurturing a garden designed and planted years ago by the castle’s owner.

Malahide Gardens have a splashing natural pond and a butterfly house, plenty of woodland areas for strolling, and a great number of greenhouses. One of the most beautiful is the Victoria house, approached by a path overhung with canopies of swooping trees, so that your first glimpse

of it is full on front in a frame of branches, a scene both contemporary and timeless.

The beauty of gardens is their enduring nature – they defy time. Penelope Lively writes about this power of gardens in her enchanting book, Life in the Garden. A garden reflects the character of any hand that once looked after them, and in this way, each has its own story. To speak of a garden’s history seems wrong, because history implies that something is past and concluded whereas a garden grows and evolves.

A garden holds a collection of stories, of laughter beneath the branches, of succulents come and gone in exchanges of cuttings with family and friends, of care, of hope, of a day spent harvesting olives. It at once crystallises past times and opens up to let more stories be told; it connects us to what once was and let us look to the future.

My aunt Daphne had written about Malahide Castle in October 2017, in the last issue of Taste&Flair that she would ever publish. She wrote of the castle’s “absolutely wonderful botanical gardens”, which were “spectacular in the sun but particularly mystical in a light drizzle”. I couldn’t agree with her more.

Here’s to the beauty of gardens, and long may they be lovingly tended. n

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Attard & Co. Food ltd. facebook.com/attardcofood

WINE T&F

A Noble GRAPE

Chardonnay is one of those wines, like Champagne, that needs to be paired with the right dish to be fully enjoyed, otherwise the whole experience may be misleading, says Andrew Azzopardi

O

light cuisine, as well as the perception that n one of my first dates with my all Chardonnays are oaked. now wife, Roberta, I remember Chardonnay, one of the six noble and her clearly saying she doesn’t international grapes is so malleable that like Chardonnay. I was allowed to order it is flatteringly easy to enjoy due to its any wine I wanted, as long as it wasn’t complexity, muted scent and relatively Chardonnay. I was still trying to impress low acidity. Vine growers find this grape her back then, so I opted for a refreshing easy and profitable to grow, consequently New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc which planting it in abundance in different made her happy. By the second dinnerclimates and soils. Its origins remain in date, I couldn’t resist the temptation and Burgundy, France, where it is generally I made sure to order a decent bottle of aged in oak and produces exceptionally Chablis Premier Cru. Chablis is in fact elegant and complex wines. The word 100% Chardonnay, but unlike Californian, “Chardonnay” is never written on the Burgundy or Chilean Chardonnay, oak is bottle labels in Burgundy, yet when the hardly ever used in the wine-making or Chardonnay, one of the six New World wine industry introduced aging process. The wines are often linear, noble and international varietal labelling, Chardonnay was the mineral and refreshing and more suited to grapes is so malleable that it is most attractive to wine-drinkers. our Mediterranean style of cooking. flatteringly easy to enjoy due Chardonnay can be made in a wide The risk paid off, she loved the wine to its complexity, muted scent range of styles from a creamy, toasty and and we got married some years later. I and relatively low acidity. opulent style typical of Burgundy, to an was not surprised she enjoyed it, because so many people equate Chardonnay with oaky, full-bodied wines unoaked, mineral and refreshing style more typical of Chablis, an that are difficult to pair with our delicate Mediterranean dishes, area located just north of Burgundy. Chardonnay grapes grown in fact Chardonnay is the most versatile grape around. It is the use on Kimmeridgian soil, in the better regions of Chablis, are known of oak that many are not particularly fond of, and not the grape. for their high content of marine fossils which are the source for Chardonnay is known as the queen of grapes in the the minerality in the better Premier Cru and Grand Cru Chablis. wine-world, but besides the Chablis- style, is strangely still These drier, fresher and zippier styles of wine are not aged in oak underappreciated here in Malta. I believe that this is due to the vats, but are mainly fermented and aged in stainless steel vats difficulty of pairing a full-bodied Chardonnay with our typically which do not impart any flavours to the wine, producing crisper

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T&F WINE

Many people equate Chardonnay with oaky, full-bodied wines that are difficult to pair with our delicate Mediterranean dishes, when in fact Chardonnay is the most versatile grape around.

styles enjoyable with light dishes such as fresh fish and seafood. put the USA on the world map for well-balanced Chardonnay.

Contrary to popular belief, Premier Cru and Grand Cru Chablis, Fortunately for the consumer, this was just the beginning of so although not oak-influenced, have the capacity to age several many fantastic examples of Californian Chardonnay.

As always, flabby, unbalanced and cheaper alternatives are years, evolving into complex, enjoyable and interesting wines.

Further south, below the area of Chablis, in the Eastern French still commonly found at restaurants and supermarkets and I like region of Burgundy, where the terroir consists of chalk, clay and to blame them as the reason many people have misunderstood limestone, Chardonnay is the only white grape variety grown. Chardonnay for so many years. There aren’t many worse wines than badly produced Chardonnay. CostUnlike other regions, winemakers do not saving methods including the addition of blend grapes, producing single-varietal Chardonnay notes oak chips and – dare say it? – oak essence, wines, typical of the terroir of the area. used to create a clumsy perception of The regions of Burgundy produce buttery, Chardonnay is also one of the three toast and oak flavours. Now is probably nutty and age-worthy wines that are often main grapes, besides Pinot Noir the right time to bring my wife back into considered addictive by even the most and Pinot Meunier, used in the the story. She has since tried several discerning of sommeliers. production of Champagne, and is oaked Chardonnays and has grown to These Burgundian super-stars, from the only grape used in the Blanc de love the more premium and well-balanced the Côte de Beaune subregion of Burgundy, Blanc version. The typical toasted Burgundy style, which is great for a include the highly acclaimed and rather brioche flavours we experience in Chardonnay lover like myself, but not so expensive Corton Charlemagne, Bâtardmany Champagnes often derives great for our savings account. Regrettably, Montrachet, Chevalier Montrachet, Puligny from the similarity of the treatment like many things in life, cheaper is not Montrachet, Chassagne Montrachet and of oaked Chardonnays. always better and Chardonnay is one of Meursault. Each shows off similar creamy them. and full-bodied styles, yet different and The “pettilance” or small bubbles I am a firm believer that a full-bodied complex characters typical of the terroir. that occur in Champagne due to Chardonnay is one of those wines, like Though these are probably not the most the traditional production process, Champagne, that needs to be paired “value” wines around, often priced in the elevates the freshness in the wines with the right dish to be fully enjoyed, hundreds and sometimes thousands of and adds an element of elegance otherwise the whole experience may be euros a bottle, they are arguably some of and glamour. Like Chardonnay, I misleading. Characteristically creamy, the most complex and interesting white often find that Champagne is also complex and nutty Chardonnays are a wines produced. often misunderstood in Malta, and fantastic accompaniment to creamier It is true that Burgundy in France is with good reason. Champagne can style dishes such as lobster, scallops and often considered the ultimate producer be light and fruity or full-bodied, poultry cooked in a cream or butter-based of Chardonnay, and in many ways rightly opulent and buttery and the latter sauce but may be too overpowering with so, but several up and coming new world flavours are more difficult to pair delicately poached fish or even clash with areas including Australia, New Zealand, with the right food, such that tomato-based dishes.

USA, Argentina and even South Africa almond cake and typical wedding I recently paired a renowned Italian are producing world-class Chardonnay in sweets with which we often pair our Chardonnay, a well-priced and welcome different styles and budgets. celebratory glass of Champagne, are alternative to the great Burgundies, The USA, in particular Napa Valley, not the ideal accompaniment, often with a lobster risotto and the result was Russian Valley, and Sonoma Valley are rendering the bubbles slightly bitter. nothing short of sublime. The nutty and known to produce an even richer or heavier floral flavours from the full-bodied aged style of Chardonnay than Burgundy, For those with a serious sweet Chardonnay was perfectly matched with and though they had a reputation of tooth, nobly rotten Chardonnay from the creaminess of the risotto. You could over-oaked wines, they have recently New Zealand, Australia and the say rounder Chardonnays are a rather been producing very well balanced and Mâconnais region in France produce selfish wine that require specific food and refreshing examples, still with their delicious, honey-flavoured wines ambience that hold the wine centre stage typically big, opulent and butter y further endorsing the beauty of this to be enjoyable, and are generally not to expressions. The famous 1976 Paris blind wonderful grape. be sipped casually at parties. n tasting was the first time a Napa wine

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BRUNCH T&F

FLAVOURS OF

FINLAND Trying new food is one of the pleasures and joys of travel.

Claire Borg brings home some of the flavours of Finland.

The food styling and photography are hers too.

Autumn in Scandinavia is suffused with the flavour of berries.

Though the days are rapidly becoming shorter, they’re still long enough to keep the berry plants busy producing their fruit.

Lingonberries, cloudberries, chokeberries, cranberries and seabuckthorn berries are very particular and are a refreshing taste to our Mediterranean palate. They’re served alone, or used in savoury salads and as toppings on baked sweets.

Fresh salmon, prepared in all ways possible, is plentiful. My absolute favourite still remains the hot smoked flaky version.

Flavoursome and juicy, it just melts in your mouth. Readily peeled crayfish is another favourite flavour high up on my list. In Finland, it’s in season till the end of October, usually served in a salad or on rye bread.

The baked goods are divine: Karelian pasties, rye bread, sourdough bread and pasties flavoured with cardamom and cinnamon. The variety is fantastic, with names so long I could never remember them in a million years, let alone pronounce them.

In Finland, I’m spoilt for choice at brunchtime. Give me this combination of seasonal produce and a food culture I love, and I’m in heaven.

Many of the ingredients in these recipes are not freshly available in Malta. You can substitute ingredients of your choice, creating something entirely new. I have added a few recipes that can be reproduced or adapted for everyday use with ingredients that are easily found on the market. I hope these recipes inspire you to travel to the wonderful countries further north than many of us choose to go.

Taste&Flair note: To make your own vanilla sugar, put a fresh vanilla pod into a jar filled with sugar 2/3 of the way up, seal it, and leave it aside for a few days, shaking it occasionally to ensure the flavour infuses the sugar properly.

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T&F BRUNCH

Pancakes with blueberry cheese PREPARATION & COOKING TIME

MAKES

40

10

MINUTES

PORTIONS

FOR THE PANCAKES

250g plain flour 2 ½ teaspoons baking-powder 3 tablespoons sugar • 325ml milk 2 eggs • 40g butter, melted FOR THE BLUEBERRY CHEESE

400g quark cheese or soft ricotta 4 tablespoon lemon juice 200g ripe blueberries 4 teaspoons icing sugar FOR THE TOPPING

mixed berries, fresh or frozen (let the fruit reach room temperature) pomegranate arils • sliced plums

1. In a large bowl, sift the flour and

baking powder. Add the sugar, mix it in, then make a well in the centre.

Pour in the melted butter, eggs and milk and whisk the mixture together until it’s well combined.

2. Heat some butter in a pan and

tilt the pan slightly until the butter coats the base. Pour a ladleful of the mixture into the centre of the pan and let it fry for about a minute on each side or until golden all over.

3. Repeat with the rest of the liquid,

stacking the cooked pancakes on a warm plate as you go. Cover them to keep them warm.

4. Make the blueberry cheese by mixing

the lemon, sifted icing sugar and cheese together. Add the blueberries and fold in, crushing a few to release colour and juice.

5. Serve the pancakes topped with

blueberry cheese and a scattering of fresh berries, pomegranate seeds, and sliced plums.

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BRUNCH T&F

Horseradish and Lemon Cream

PREPARATION TIME

This is served with typical Karelian breakfast pasties.

YOU WILL NEED

250g sour cream 2 tablespoons horseradish, freshly grated (or store-bought ready grated) 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon finely chopped dill

5 MINUTES

1. Mix all the ingredients thoroughly

and store in the fridge until needed.

2. Serve this with flaked cooked

salmon, breakfast pasties and halved hard-boiled eggs.

3. Garnish with dill and micro-greens.

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T&F BRUNCH

Salmon and Red Onion Tartare Buy the best quality salmon and handle it carefully as it’s eaten raw.

Use only red onion for this recipe as its taste is very particular.

YOU WILL NEED

200g fresh salmon 1 small red onion 4 tablespoons finely chopped dill 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt black pepper to taste

PREPARATION TIME

1. Peel and finely chop the red

onion and put it into a small bowl.

15 MINUTES MAKES

2-3 PIECES

2. Using a clean cutting board

and knife, dice the raw salmon and toss it with the chopped onion and dill.

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3. Add the half teaspoon of

sugar and half teaspoon of salt.

Season with black pepper. Toss the mixture again and store it in the fridge until needed.

4. To serve, spread rye bread

or sourdough bread with quark (or creamy ricotta mixed with lemon juice), scatter a loose half-handful of alfalfa sprouts over the spread and top with the salmon tartare mix.

BRUNCH T&F

Rahkapulla

Quark filled buns

Rahkapulla are a cross between a doughnut and a Danish pastry.

Rahkapulla are a cross between a doughnut and a Danish pastry.

Made from soft, yeasty dough, they’re sweet with a sour, creamy, lemony filling, and truly delicious and one of my favourite pastries.

They can be enjoyed plain or topped up fresh fruit too. I topped mine with cloudberries, but you can use any other type of berry.

PREPARATION & BAKING TIME

MAKES

60

4

MINUTES, EXCLUDING RISING TIME

PORTIONS

FOR THE DOUGH

25g fresh yeast (or 11g dry yeast) 250 ml milk • 100g butter • 90 g sugar 1 teaspoon ground cardamom seeds ½ teaspoon salt 1 egg (divided in two) 500-550g plain flour FILLING

300-400g quark, drained (or use ricotta mixed with extra lemon juice) 1 egg 50-80g sugar (depending on how sweet you want the filling to be) 1 tablespoon vanilla sugar 2-3 tablespoons lemon juice grated zest of ½ lemon or a handful of raisins (optional) Topping (optional) Cloudberries or berries of your choice

Cloudberries are Finland’s most elusive, sought-after berry, known as Lapland’s gold. The fruit becomes paler the riper it gets: ranging from deepest crimson to peachy orange, with just one precious berry per stalk. Despite being in great demand as a delicacy in Finland and also in Norway and Russia, the cloudberry is not widely cultivated. The fruit is tasty and nutritious, rich in fibre and contains magnesium, zinc, potassium and beta carotene, vitamins A and E and lots of vitamin C. The berries are used in baked goods, made into jam, juiced or enjoyed raw.

1. Melt the butter, add the milk and

stir to combine both ingredients.

2. If you’re using fresh yeast, the mixture

will need to be slightly warmer than your fingertips. Crumble the fresh yeast into a bowl, add a little of the warm milk and butter mixture and stir until the yeast dissolves. Then add the rest of the liquid, and the sugar, salt, cardamom, and half of the egg. Mix well.

3. If you’re using dry yeast, warm the

milk and butter mixture to 42°C, then the sugar, salt, cardamom, and half of the egg and mix well. Add the dry yeast to half the flour and mix it in.

4. Now, add the flour to the liquid a little

at a time (if you’re using dry yeast, start with the yeast-flour mixture) and mix it in, using a wooden spoon. When all the flour is combined, use your hands or a mixer with a dough hook to knead the dough until it’s smooth. It should be slightly sticky. If it’s too dry, it won’t rise well and if you knead it for too long the baked buns will be hard.

5. Set the bowl aside in a warm place to

allow the dough to rise until it’s double in size. Cover it with a clean damp dishcloth to stop it drying out (approximately 35

minutes). When the dough’s risen properly, tip it out onto a floured work surface, sprinkle some more flour over it and punch it down to remove large air bubbles.

6. Knead the dough lightly and divide

it into 12 equal portions. Shape them into balls and then pat them between your hands to form thick discs, and place them on a baking tray lined with nonstick paper. Cover them with a clean dishcloth and let them rise for another 25 minutes. When the buns are almost risen, preheat the oven to 200°C. 7. Meanwhile, make the bun filling. If

you can’t find quark, use a creamy ricotta instead and add lots of lemon juice to give it a tart taste. Combine all the filling ingredients in a bowl and add the raisins and zest, if you’re using them.

8. Now, use a glass to press a “hole” in

each dough disc. Brush the inside of the dough hole with beaten egg and spoon in the filling. Place the baking tray in the pre-heated oven and bake for 10-15 minutes or until the dough turns goldenbrow but the filling is still pale-coloured.

9. Serve topped with cloudberries, if

you’re lucky enough to have some, or with another type of berry of your choice.

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Strawberry Bebe Leivokset Pastries

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME

90

Pretty and dainty, pink and retro, strawberry bebe leivokset pastries catch your eye at any pastry counter. They are also made in different varieties, such as coffee, raspberry and hazelnut. Dating back to the early 1900s, and said to have originated in France, they are now considered a Finnish tradition and part of the repertoire of Finnish baking. The delicate pastries’ very thin buttery pastry shell is filled with a sweet, creamy filling and topped with a gorgeous thin layer of frosting.

FOR THE PASTRY

25g finely ground almonds (unpeeled or peeled) 25g sugar • 50g butter 1 egg yolk or ½ egg white • 60g flour FOR THE FILLING

50-100 ml frozen strawberries (when they’re not in season) 2-3 teaspoons sugar • 25ml cream ½ teaspoon vanilla sugar 50g butter, unsalted FOR THE FROSTING

100ml icing sugar a pinch of vanilla sugar ½-1 tablespoon strawberry juice

1. Mix the sugar and grated almonds

in a small bowl and then rub in the softened butter and egg, using your fingertips. Add the flour and knead the dough lightly until smooth.

Wrap it in plastic and put it in the fridge to cool and harden up.

2. Roll out the dough to 3-4mm

thickness. This is easier if you use plastic sheeting as it prevents the dough from sticking and breaking up. Use a pastry cutter or a glass to cut the dough into rounds.

3. Rub the inside of the tartlet tins with

butter and then sprinkle with flour.

Shake the tin to distribute the flour so that the tins are properly coated.

Alternatively, use a silicon mould which doesn’t need any lining at all. Press a dough disc into each tartlet tin or mould so that it lines the bottom and sides fully.

4. Use a fork to prick the pastry base

then leave the tin in the fridge until the pastry hardens up again. Set the oven to around 160°C and bake the tartlet cases for 8-10 minutes or until they start to turn golden.

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5. Let them cool down slightly in their

tins and when they are firm enough to be removed without breaking, put them on a wire rack and let them cool down completely. Scrape the edges with a sharp knife to level them out.

6. Put the frozen strawberries into a

sieve over a bowl and leave them to thaw. Some juice will drip into the bowl. You’ll use this for the frosting.

Next, push the strawberries through the sieve into a separate bowl to make a purée and mix about 25ml of this with the sugar and cream.

7. Beat the butter and vanilla sugar

until light and fluffy, then add the strawberry cream a spoon at a time, beating well after each spoonful. Add

MINUTES APPROXIMATELY MAKES

20 PORTIONS

more strawberry purée for a stronger flavour. Keep beating the mixture until it turns pale and fluffy.

8. Place the pastry cases on a plate

and use a spoon to fill them with the strawberry butter cream. Smooth down the surface with a palette knife, cover with a plastic sheet, and put the plate in the fridge until the cream is firmly set.

9. Beat the mixture until pale, light

and fluffy. Fill the pastry cases with the butter cream and smooth the surface with a knife or a small spatula or palette knife. Place the pastries on a plate, cover with plastic and place in refrigerator until the butter cream is firm and set. Serve topped with fresh strawberries, when in season.

T&F BRUNCH

Loimulohi salad Loimulohi is a famous Finnish way of enjoying salmon. It’s somewhere between hot smoked salmon and baked salmon. Literally, it means “fired salmon”, as the fillets are pinned to wooden planks and cooked standing vertically around an open fire. The charred surface of the fish is particularly tasty – smoky, but still preserving the juiciness of the fish. Exquisite.

PREPARATION

SERVES

15

1

MINUTES

PERSON

You can substitute the Loimulohi with salmon grilled over a wood-chip barbecue, and use prawns instead of crawfish. The taste of sea buckthorn is tart, so you can substitute it with sharp-tasting orange segments YOU WILL NEED

1 salmon fillet slice a handful of spinach leaves a handful of alfalfa sprouts a handful of crawfish (or prawns) half a handful of peas sea buckthorn (or another tart fruit)

1. Grill the salmon, preferably over

a wood-chip barbecue or, if you don’t have one, use a cooker-top grill pan and set it on a high heat.

2. Peel and grill the crawfish

or prawns. If they’re large, cut them in half.

3. Arrange the spinach leaves on a

plate and add the alfalfa sprouts and scatter the peas over the top.

4. Put the grilled salmon on the

side and scatter the prawns (or crawfish) over the salad greens.

5. Serve the salad garnished with

sea buckthorn if you have some, or with peeled orange segments, and with condiments on the side

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farsonsclassicbrews.com

T&F BRUNCH

Salmon crouton salad Sea-buckthorn berries are edible and extremely nutritious and can be frozen to reduce their astringent quality. They are very pretty, nearly too pretty to believe they are edible. They are harvested in Finland in large quantities but are also native to other countries of Northern Europe. One single berry contains 15 times more vitamin C than an orange.

YOU WILL NEED

2 portions ready-smoked salmon (or Loimulohi, if you can find some) 2 handfuls of mixed micro-greens a handful of pomegranate arils sea buckthorn berries, or another tart-tasting fruit 2 slices of rye bread a little olive oil

PREPARATION

20 MINUTES

1. Cut up the bread into cubes. Warm the oil in a pan and drop

in the bread cubes. Fry until golden on all sides. Scoop out the croutons and put them on a plate lined with kitchen paper.

2. Warm up the smoked salmon and flake it using a fork.

SERVES

3. Put a handful of micro-greens on each plate and

2

scatter the flaked salmon over the top. Toss lightly

PERSONS

4. Now scatter half a handful of pomegranate arils over each

salad, then scatter the freshly drained croutons over the top.

5. Serve garnished with sea buckthorn berries (or another tart

fruit like orange segments) with condiments on the side.

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T&F BRUNCH

Goat cheese and leek quiche

YOU WILL NEED

250g shortcrust pastry (you can use frozen, ready-made pastry) 3 eggs 1 tablespoon Greek yoghurt 4 tablespoons cream 1 small leek, peeled, washed and chopped Âź glass white wine a knob of butter salt and pepper to taste 4 goat cheeselets

PREPARATION AND BAKING TIME

30 MINUTES APPROXIMATELY MAKES

8 SMALL QUICHES

1. In some melted butter, cook

4. Fill each pastry-lined mould

the leek until soft. Add some white wine during cooking for flavour. Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside to cool.

in layers, starting with a little of the cooked leek, then add some goat cheese, and top up with the egg and youghurt mixture.

2. Meanwhile, chop the

5. Place the filled tart moulds

goat cheese and separately beat the eggs, yoghurt, salt and pepper together.

in a cold oven and set it to 150°C and cook till the pastry turns golden and the top of the quiche starts to colour nicely.

3. Roll out the pastry

and cut rounds to line 8 small tart moulds.

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6. Serve warm, straight out of the

oven, with a salad of micro-greens. n

T&F NOSTALGIA

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NOSTALGIA T&F

Proustian Moments

Sometimes it takes just a bite of something sweet to conjure up comforting, long-lost memories. Livia Tabone’s reimagined retrobakes are steeped in nostalgia and deliciously fun to make.

Food styling and photography by Brian Grech

“She sent out for one of those short, plump little cakes called ‘petites madeleines,’ which look as though they had been moulded in the fluted scallop of a pilgrim’s shell. And soon, mechanically, weary after a dull day with the prospect of a depressing morrow, I raised to my lips a spoonful of the tea in which I had soaked a morsel of the cake.

No sooner had the warm liquid, and the crumbs with it, touched my palate, a shudder ran through my whole body, and I stopped, intent upon the extraordinary changes that were taking place. An exquisite pleasure had invaded my senses…”

Marcel Proust, Remembrance of Things Past

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T&F NOSTALGIA

Raspberry Victoria Sponge Layers of fluffy sponge oozing with raspberry jam and freshly whipped cream make up this classic, teatime favourite. Traditionally, Victoria sponge is served with the top layer simply dusted with icing sugar. I topped this with an extra layer of jam and cream. Victoria sponge doesn’t keep well and is best consumed when freshly made. However, you could bake the cakes earlier in the day and then assemble the layers just before serving.

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NOSTALGIA T&F

Baking time 25 minutes FOR THE SPONGE

180g butter, softened at room temperature 180g sugar 3 eggs 180g self-raising flour FOR THE LAYERS

200ml double cream 250g mascarpone 70g sugar 1 jar of raspberry jam

1. Preheat the oven to 170°C and

line three 20cm round cake tins with non-stick baking paper.

2. Using a stand mixer, beat the sugar

and eggs together until pale, then add the soft butter. Keep mixing for a minute longer, then sift in the flour and give it one final quick mix until all the flour is incorporated.

3. Divide the batter equally between

the three tins. Level the surface of each and bake in the preheated oven for 25 minutes or until golden and firm. Remove the tins from the oven, set them aside to cool completely, and then turn the cakes out of their tins.

4. Just before assembling the cake,

put the double cream and sugar into the bowl of an electric whisk and beat them on high speed until stiff peaks form. Next, add the mascarpone and keep beating the mixture until it is well combined and smooth.

5. Place the base cake layer directly

onto your cake stand and apply a very liberal spread of jam followed by a generous amount of cream taking both to the very edge of the sponge. Let the jam and cream lightly dribble over the edge of the cake.

6. Carefully place the middle cake layer

onto the base layer and repeat the jam and cream process. Repeat the same for the final top cake layer, finishing off the last of the cream to top the cake.

7. Serve this immediately, or cover it and

keep it in the fridge until serving time.

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T&F NOSTALGIA

Apple Almond and Plum Crumble Pie There’s something about baked apples and pastry that is so homely and comforting.

Bake this pie just before serving. It’s delicious served warm.

Baking time 50 minutes FOR THE SWEET PASTRY

250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 50g sugar • 125g unsalted butter 1 small egg FOR THE FILLING

TO MAKE THE PASTRY

3 plums • 5 medium-sized apples 70g sugar • 30g plain flour juice of half a lemon • 1 teaspoon cinnamon thick-cut rind from a whole lemon

Grease a 20cm round, fluted pie tin.

1. Into the bowl of your food processor

add the flour, sugar and butter. Use a dough hook to pulse until the mixture looks like rough sand. Add the egg and process again until a dough ball forms.

2. Transfer the dough onto a lightly

floured surface and roll it out evenly with a rolling pin until it’s large enough to drape over the pie tin.

Neatly fit the pastry into the fluted edges of the greased pan, cut off any overhang and patch up any gaps with the extra pastry. Cover with cling film and set aside in the fridge while you continue with the recipe.

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FOR THE CRUMBLE

50g chopped almonds 100g granulated sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 100 plain flour 75g butter, chilled

ISSUE 123 OCTOBER 2019

To make the filling

1. In a large bowl, pour in the lemon juice

and rind, sugar, flour and cinnamon, then mix all the ingredients together with a fork. Peel the apples and cut them into even slices, then toss in the lemon mix.

2. Cut the plums into slices the same

thickness as the apples, leaving the skin on. Tip the plums into the apple mix and toss everything together gently. Set the bowl aside while you create the crumble.

To make the crumble

1. Place all of the ingredients, except

the almonds, into a large bowl and use a pecking motion with your

fingertips to create a rough crumble.

Add the chopped almonds to the bowl and once again use your fingertips to combine the ingredients well. The mixture should remain crumbly.

2. While you assemble the pie, preheat

the oven to 190°C. Using a large spoon, transfer the pie filling into the pastry case and even out the top. Scatter the crumble over the pie filling and spread it out to cover the whole surface, including the edges.

3. Bake the pie for about 50 minutes, until the pastry and crumble are nicely golden and the filling is bubbling. Serve warm.

FRESH NEW MENU AT THE GALLEY RESTAURANT.

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Y

T

Seasonal Seafood, Premium Meats, Pasta Dishes or just a light afternoon snack.

The Galley Bar & Restaurant welcomes you to a light lunch or dine in style on our spectacular terrace on the water’s edge.

Fully stocked bar with a good selection of wines, spirits and cocktails and easy parking.

TA U R A N

THE GALLEY B A R & R E S TAU R A N T

Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Ta’ Xbiex. T: [+356] 7931 8801 E: reservationsthegalleytaxbiex.com W: thegalleytaxbiex.com

T&F NOSTALGIA

Baking time 45 minutes FOR THE CAKE

180g butter, softened • 180g sugar 3 eggs • 140g self-raising flour 40g cocoa • a splash of milk FOR THE TOPPING

1 punnet of cherries 100g mascarpone cheese 1 small carton of fresh cream 60g icing sugar • 1 tablespoon of rum 50g chocolate broken into squares 50g cherry jam FOR THE BOOZEY DRIZZLE

1 heaped tablespoon of cherry jam, sieved to remove the pulp 1 tablespoon of rum

1. Begin by greasing and lining a loaf

cake tin and preheat the oven to 180°C. 2. To make the cake, beat the butter

and sugar with an electric whisk until pale in colour. Next, add the eggs slowly, one at a time, and beat until all the egg is incorporated into the mix.

3. Sift the flour and cocoa into a

medium-sized bowl and gradually fold the flour mixture into the beaten egg mixture. Add a splash of milk to loosen the batter slightly. Transfer the batter into the prepared loaf pan and level out the top. Bake for 45 minutes or until well risen and firm to the touch.

4. While the cake is baking, put both ingredients for the drizzle into a small bowl and stir to create a texture like syrup. Once you remove the cake from the oven, poke holes into the surface using a skewer and pour the drizzle onto the cake.

Leave it to cool completely in the pan before turning out it onto a cake plate.

5. To decorate the cake, whip up the

fresh cream, rum and sugar until stiff peaks form, then add the mascarpone cheese and continue beating until well mixed. Using a small spatula, decorate the surface of the cake with the cream, then carefully place the cherries onto the cream, leaving the stems intact.

Next, use a small spoon to drizzle on the cherry jam all over the top.

6. Finally, just before serving, melt

the dark chocolate in the microwave oven in 30 second intervals and drizzle the molten chocolate over the cherries and cream.

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Boozey Black Forest Cake Blackforest cake takes its name from the dense woods in Southwest Germany. This is a reimagined variation on the classic round layered cake.

I’ve used rum, rather than kirsch, for a different flavour.

The cake can be made a few hours ahead and decorated just before serving. I left the stalks on the cherries for their decorative effect, but you could remove them if you prefer.

NOSTALGIA T&F

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T&F NOSTALGIA

Orange and Vanilla Madeleines The Madeleine inspired the original Proustian moment.

These little cakes are lovely whether eaten alone or dunked in tea.

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NOSTALGIA T&F

Baking time 17 minutes Makes 18 Madeleines YOU WILL NEED

2 eggs 120g sugar 130g plain flour 120g butter, melted and at room temperature 1 teaspoon orange zest vanilla seeds scraped from 1/2 a pod pinch of salt TO DECORATE

icing sugar for dusting zest of 1 orange

1. Prepare the madeleine tin by

brushing the scallop moulds with a little melted butter. Then preheat the oven to 170°C. 2. With a handheld beater,

whisk the sugar and eggs until frothy, then whisk in the rest of the ingredients.

3. Either pipe or spoon the

batter equally into the moulds and bake on the centre shelf for 15-17 minutes until firm in the middle. Keep an eye on the Madeleines to ensure the edges don’t brown too much.

4. Allow the Madeleines to cool

in the tin, then carefully remove them and dust with icing sugar and strands of zest to serve.

5. Keep any leftovers tightly

wrapped in foil paper at room temperature.

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T&F NOSTALGIA

Croissant and Chocolate Bread Pudding Bread and milk, lightly sweetened, is the taste of childhood. This version. made with light-as-air croissants and laced with chocolate, is heavenly Baking time 35 minutes

2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the eggs

YOU WILL NEED

very well using a balloon whisk. Then add the cream, chocolate milk and sugar, and keep whisking until the mixture is frothy.

200ml chocolate milk • 4 eggs 300ml single cream • 50g sugar 6 croissants 100g dark chocolate, roughly chopped into chunks

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Tear up

the croissants and arrange them in a greased 20cm square baking dish.

3. Pour the chocolate custard over

the croissants and set the dish aside for at least 20-30 minutes for the croissants to absorb the liquid.

4. Scatter the chopped chocolate over

the surface and bake for 30-35 minutes or until the custard is set and firm.

5. Allow the pudding to cool slightly, then

use a large spoon to scoop out servings. ■

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+

+ +

=

Made with 100% fresh Maltese milk No artiďŹ cial colours or sweeteners Less than 10g of sugar per 100g

=

No preservatives Source of Calcium FortiďŹ ed with Vitamin D3

T&F HERITAGE

BAROQUE

SPLENDOUR Mdina’s Cathedral Musuem was Malta’s first purpose-built Seminary and, for a time, was home to a small army of boys for an entirely different reason. Therese Vella traces its history.

Photography by Alan Carville

p The coat of arms of the building's founder, Bishop Paul Alpheran de Bussan, in the former refectory. u The high dome and lantern in the Rococo chapel which leads from the piano nobile to the adjacent gallery.

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t The museum rooftop (not normally open to visitors) offers a vista of the neighbouring Cathedral.

S

tepping into the main square of Mdina and chancing upon the vista of the Cathedral of Malta inevitably draws gasps of awe – from first-time visitors and Maltese residents alike – at the grandeur and majesty of its façade. Yet on approaching the Cathedral, another square appears to its right, one that is smaller and more inviting to the visitor.

This square is flanked by the Archbishop’s Palace abutting the south wall of Cathedral and, to the right, one can see another historic building with an unusual entrance and an interesting façade that is remarkable for its graceful baroque proportions and sculptural embellishments. This building was once the first proper Seminary of the diocese of Malta, where aspirants to the priesthood lived and attended to their vocational preparation.

This building fulfilled the purpose for which it was raised, from the mid-eighteenth century until the early years of the twentieth century. Before 1733, the year when its foundation stone was laid, the training of novices had taken place in adapted properties, though the Seminary had no seat to call its own since. The first Seminary, which opened its doors to six novices in 1703, was in Mdina. However, it did not last for long as it kept being moved to different towns until it was transferred to Valletta in 1723.

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q The entrance hall leads directly onto the large central courtyard, following the classic Roman architectural model.

t The new partitioning in the galleries is a legacy of the recent exhibition

by Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti.

During WWII, the Old Seminary was adapted to house the young students of St Edward’s College, whose school in Cottonera was threatened by the bombardment of the Grand Harbour.

Material: Cement Patterned Tiles Flooring. Photo: Espais Roca.

Surfacing the most beautiful spaces Marble | Quartz | Engineered Stone | Granite | Patterned Tiles | Quartzite | Ceramic | Engineered Wood Halmann Vella Ltd, The Factory, Mosta Road, Lija. LJA 9016. Malta T: (+356) 21 433 636 E: info@halmannvella.com

www.halmannvella.com

T&F HERITAGE

I

t was Bishop Paul Alpheran de Bussan, appointed to head the diocese of Malta in 1728, who, in 1734, finally decided that a building dedicated to the preparation of novices was to be established in the Cathedral city of Mdina. Alpheran de Bussan paid for the Seminary building in Mdina himself. He may also have played a part in the design of the façade, or more specifically, the design of the imposing portal with its figures of atlantes flanking the principal doorway.

Atlantes figures – supports sculpted in the form of a man to function as a column or pilaster – took their name from the mythical personage Atlas, the titan who was forced to hold up the sky on his shoulders for eternity. Such architectural sculptures grace the façades of several French baroque buildings in France and a number can be seen on public buildings in Aix-en-Provence, Alpheran de Bussan’s native city. The building was completed within eight years and inaugurated in May, 1742.

The two-storeyed façade of the Old Seminary was decorated by means of high relief architectural sculpture framing the tall windows on both floors. The baroque flourish of curlicues, garlands and conch shells around the windows provide the ornate detail to the rhythmic division of the façade demarcated by cornices and pilasters. The roof is punctuated by finials, in the form of trompe l’oeil sculptures of vessels with tongues of flames bursting forth.

Atlantes figures took their name from the mythical personage Atlas, the titan who was forced to hold up the sky on his shoulders for eternity. q The Rococo piano nobile which leads to the old seminary chapel, will house the museum's unique collection of antique Maltese furniture.

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u The marble flooring in the galleries was restored to its former glory with the help of Halmann Vella.

HERITAGE T&F

TASTE&FLAIR NOTE

Malta’s first autism-friendly museum The Mdina Cathedral Museum recognises that access to cultural heritage is a universal right and is the first to facilitate access specifically for people on the autism spectrum. Museum Access provides information to help prospective visitors plan their visit, and resources to help make their visit easier when they are the premises. The Cathedral Museum is also equipped with a lift and ramps, and all halls at the museum are accessible by wheelchairs, pushchairs and mobility scooters.

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he central bay, with its larger-than-life atlantes holding up the balustraded balcony, draws the viewer’s attention. The elaborately carved balcony doorway is cradled within a curved recess in the wall, while the sculpted coats of arms of Bishop Alpheran de Bussan and Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena lie at the feet of a full-length sculpture of St Paul, the patron saint of the Cathedral of Malta.

The central doorway opens onto an entrance hall which leads directly onto the large central courtyard, following the classic Roman architectural model. The large proportions of the courtyard ensured that all four ground-floor wings were well illuminated and adequately ventilated. The ground floor was dedicated to daily practice, whether as rooms dedicated to teaching and instruction for the seminarians, or the long hall on the north-west wing which functioned as a refectory. The refectory still houses the dark wooden benches where seminarians would be seated as they gathered for communal meals. The kitchen was originally in the adjacent rooms, though little of that remains.

A grand stair-case leads to the upper floor, with wide steps planned to take cohorts of seminarians. The well-illuminated stair-case rises to the right-hand side of the entrance and arrives at a wide landing leading to all four wings of the building. The upper floor, comprising three long halls looking onto the central courtyard, were once occupied by the seminarians’ dormitories.

The fourth wing is occupied by the exquisitely decorated Rococo chapel with a high dome and lantern. Five paintings, including the titular high altar painting of The Annunciation as well as four oval paintings of St Peter, St Paul, St Charles Borromeo and St Frances de Sales were commissioned to Antoine Favray and completed by 1749, with ornately sculpted marble frames. The domed ceiling was also embellished with Rococo cartouches framing symbols of Our Lady surrounded by trompe l’oeil marbling.

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p The museum galleries once served as dormitories for the seminarians. The main gallery now displays paintings from the cathedral, including the Polyptych of St Paul.

q The wide steps of the grand staircase were planned to take cohorts of seminarians. The figure on the balustrade is from Alpheran de Bussan's coat of arms. It was recently restored to its original colours.

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T&F HERITAGE

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s a historic house combining the residence of seminarians as well as halls for their instruction, and situated close to the Cathedral of Malta, the Old Seminary fulfilled its purpose for just over a century. In the nineteenth century, the Seminary moved away from Mdina as the teaching of Theology was transferred to the University of Malta.

During WWII, the Old Seminary was adapted to house the young students of St Edward’s College, whose school in Cottonera was threatened by the bombardment of the Grand Harbour. After the war, the building remained vacant for several years until a fresh awareness of the Cathedral’s artistic and archival heritage led to its conversion into a museum. Between 1964 and 1967, the Baroque building was transformed into today’s Cathedral Museum, housing the ecclesiastical artefacts and religious paintings from the collection of the Mdina Cathedral which were formerly stored in the Cathedral Sacristy. For a time, it also housed the archives of the Cathedral.

Today, the Cathedral Museum also displays an extraordinary range of silverware and furniture, after its collection was augmented by several important bequests from private collections. Alpheran de Bussan’s Old Seminary thus fulfils a new purpose as a historic house. The baroque building is still dedicated to teaching, though in the form of the aesthetic appreciation of religious art as well as the understanding of the role of the Cathedral in the cultural life of the Maltese islands. ■

Therese Vella is an art historian and consultant museologist.

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p Now an exhibition space, the basement was used as a store in the old seminary. A staircase leads directly to the courtyard.

q The paintings in the Rococo chapel were commissioned to Antoine Favray and completed in 1749. The chequered marble floor is the original one laid when the seminary was built.

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Lombard Bank Malta p.l.c. ... always in your interest! www.lombardmalta.com

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T&F DESIGN

HOLM HOTEL The interior of this new hotel in St Julians is as far from corporate stiffness as you can get and filled with splashes of colour.

Interior design: Carlo Schembri and Ilona Debono, Carlo Schembri Design Team Photography: Alan Carville

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DESIGN T&F

“All that we see or seem, is but a dream within a dream” Edgar Allan Poe

Eclectic furniture and fittings in the lounge include a plant wall iby Callus Garden Centre who supplied the hotel’s plants, planters and landscaping services.

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ike a break in the clouds, the idea arrived unexpectedly: design the hotel like a dream and call it Holm Hotel. It’s down an alley lined with little old houses overlooking a valley in St Julians. You’re unlikely to have ever been there unless you were visiting. The design was 14 months in the making, from concept to realisation, and the hotel has now opened its doors to its first guests. The building is discreet and unobtrusive. It doesn’t scream “look at me” like larger buildings do. Yet, when you step inside, it’s full of surprises.

p Black-and-white flooring acts as a foil for the colourful furnishing. u The unusual seating and ceiling lamps and other fixtures and furniture were imported specially for the hotel.

The whole environment is designed for both work and play. Partners of business travellers won’t be bored.

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T&F DESIGN

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here most luxury hotels are large with hundreds of rooms all with a fairly standard look, Holm Hotel has just 26 rooms in 7 different types where no two designs are exactly the same. The interior seems designed for Instagrammable moments. Everywhere you look, there are visual surprises – the vertical lamps hanging from the ceiling in the lobby, the oversized seating in the lounge area, the pink plunge pool on the rooftop, ceiling sconces on the stair walls, a pendant lamp shaped like a bowler hat, blue-and-white china wallpaper. The hotel’s interior is anything but conventional and corporate.

Exploring it is a bit like opening a box of chocolates and not knowing what you’re going to bite into.

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p The brightly lit café is filled with visual surprises everywhere you look.

Kencar designed and supplied the air conditioning and fresh air systems for the whole project. u Organic design accents, like this dancing elephant lamp, give the space a quirky feel.

DESIGN T&F

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ream. We wanted guest to dream,” Carlo Schembri says. “It’s about creating a moment, remarkable moments.

Guests can feel that they are home from home but with the luxury and services of a hotel.” The client profile is someone design conscious who’s visiting for 3-4 days on business or pleasure, alone or accompanied. Room types cater for all possibilities. Some have kitchenettes.

Other just the essentials of bed and bathroom. All are equipped with the facilities you might expect, but with the little extras that make a big difference – like USB multiplugs.

p Bold colours and varied textures in one of the family suites. u The larger rooms include kitchenettes and dining areas. q Ceiling sconces on walls and cloud patterned wallpaper on the underside of the stairs give the place a dream-like feel.

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ll room types are, well, roomy and comfortably sized, with bathrooms large enough to move around in without knocking your towel off the rail. In an interior so filled with visual detail, the standout feature is the use of colour.

Where corporate hotels stay within the safe zone of beige, cream and wenge, with only the occasional flash of colour – on a bed cushion, say – Holm Hotel splashes it around playfully.

The pool and relaxation area in the spa are an unusual luxury uncommon in boutique hotels. The glass partitioning is by Finestral.

t Furniture and fittings were handpicked for each room. The door is by Baldacchino Woodworks who also supplied the bespoke kitchens, wardrobes and all non-fire rated doors.

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N O PATC H E S N O B U M PS

OPTIMUM COV E R AG E

T H E CO LO U R YO U E X P EC T

T&F DESIGN

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here’s a large orange sofa in the lobby, and a turquoise pool in the spa surrounded by softly waved yellow walls. In one bedroom, a blue plant stands next to the powder-blue sofa; in another, Chinese wallpaper is the foil for red and green furnishing; in yet another, a bright yellow stool sits next to a tomato-red sofa on a black-and-white chequered floor. One bathroom is walled in a gorgeous Moorish turquoise, another in chequered red and white.

p Bathrooms are comfortably roomy and no two are alike. u The interior design is as far from corporate stiffness as you can get.

The interior seems designed for Instagrammable moments.

Everywhere you look, there are visual surprises.

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T&F DESIGN

T

he whole environment is designed for both work and play. Partners of business travellers won’t be bored. They can sink into the jacuzzi on their private terrace, or pop down to the spa for a swim in the lap pool, a soak in the salt room or to sweat it out in the sauna and cool off in the ice room. Breakfast’s served in the lobby area, and there’s a 24-hour café there too. And when there’s time to break away from work, the restaurants and nightlife in the St Julians area are just a few minutes’ walk away. n

Exploring it is a bit like opening a box of chocolates and not knowing what you’re going to bite into.

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p The rooms are planned to appeal to desginconscious guests. u Design elements are combined in unexpected ways.

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T&F ARCHITECTURE

ZGHARTA HO

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ARCHITECTURE T&F

USE

In a house designed to flow with its natural terrain, every room has a view of nature.

Architect: Boulos Douaihy platau | platform for architecture and urbanism Photography: Ieva Saudargaite

Patios and inner gardens on the lower level draw light into the bedrooms while offering privacy.

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round Zgharta House there are panoramic views in every direction: groves of gnarled olive trees that characterise the Mediterranean setting, hills sloping gently upwards towards the mountains and, far in the distance, a hint of the city skyline, a faint reminder of the frenetic pace the house leaves behind.

Cows sometimes wander into the olive groves. Occasionally a flock of sheep will stop by to graze on the grass growing outside the boundary walls. It is an idyllic location, undisturbed by the bustle of city life.

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An exterior stair case connects the internal courtyard to the patio and garden roof of the lower level.

The house is designed to follow the natural terrain of its site, taking in the views.

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ARCHITECTURE T&F

T

he house is designed to follow the natural terrain of its site, taking in the views of the surrounding agrarian plain and mountains while protecting the family’s privacy. The indoor area is distributed over a pair of L-shaped horizontal levels set along the incline, one above the other, connected by an interior stair case. From the street level, the house is seen as a series of horizontal silhouettes that fade out into the ground, inscribing the house in its larger geography while shielding it from the nearby road.

The lower level vertically overlaps the upper level, and is set apart by the internal courtyard.

A grassy outdoor courtyard lined with aged olive trees, which draws the landscape into the house, blurring inside and outside spaces.

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T&F ARCHITECTURE

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n the upper levels, glass walls afford open sightlines to the longranging views and flood the living spaces with natural light. This is where the kitchen, dining area, library, and living spaces are set. A walled-in staircase clad in wood connects the upper level living spaces to the lower level housing the bedrooms, bathrooms and technical areas.

The extrusion of the two horizontal levels creates a third space: a grassy outdoor courtyard lined with aged olive trees, which draws the landscape into the house, blurring inside and outside spaces.

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The living space on the upper level flows seamlessly from the sitting area to the dining area and kitchen. The internal courtyard is lined with olive trees, bringing the landscape into the heart of the home.

The home’s southern orientation and massing means it enjoys maximum sun exposure in the cooler winter months.

T&F ARCHITECTURE

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ithin the footprint of the house, the partitions are fully glazed, open to the distant mountain views and to the privacy of the patios and courtyard. The cantilevered roof brings shade and a measure of privacy – in case it’s ever needed – to the glazed living spaces below.

A u-shaped stone wall wraps diagonally around the two floors, creating an intense outer edge, and a series of enclosed patios.

On the upper level, the patio is an openair entrance porch. On the lower level, the patios are a series of inner gardens, drawing natural light into the bedrooms and bathrooms.

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p In the distance, the city skyline is a faint reminder of the frenetic pace Zgharta House leaves behind.

q Glazed walls offer panoramic views and flood the interior with natural light.

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T&F ARCHITECTURE

Zgharta House is set in a Mediterranean olive grove landscape and designed to follow the topography of its site.

T

he house was built with a material palette that includes sandstone cladding for the site’s boundary and u-shaped walls, white concrete for the cantilevered roof and structure, and lowenergy glazing for the inner façades. The home’s southern orientation and massing means it enjoys maximum sun exposure in the cooler winter months, with natural lighting and cross-ventilation all year round, and passive cooling technologies which make air-conditioning unnecessary even during the long Mediterranean summer. ■

The patio on the upper level overlooks groves of aged olive trees.

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T&F DESIGN

Twiggy Floor Lamp by Foscarini.

A fine arched line, a flexible sign which, as if by magic, suspends a large diffuser in mid-air: this is Twiggy, a floor lamp that meets multiple setting and lighting requirements. Available at Elektra Ltd, Qormi.

Handmade lanterns by Mdina Glass look stunning indoors or out and each piece is finished off with a high-grade leather handle for a timeless look. Light them up at night with a candle or fairy lights for a truly striking ambience. See the options in-store or online at www.mdinaglass.com.mt.

For more information, call +356 2141 5786, email onlinesales@mdinaglass.com.mt or find Mdina Glass on facebook.com/mdinaglass

t Next HOME store Bisazza Street Sliema open on Sundays. Looking to revamp your living areas or just need a little home inspiration? Explore the newest homeware trends from bold florals and bright colours to luxe textures and metallic finishes. Pick out your perfect pair of curtains, indulge in new bed linen or bring style to your bathroom with our latest design suggestions.

p Neutra 6.0 unleashed designs. Fine porcelain stoneware becomes a true element of design, walls become enormous paintings where the colour is understood as the main element of expression.

The collection is available in 8 colour schemes recommended both for floor and wall applications. The Neutra 6.0 collection is available from Satariano, Valley Road, Birkirkara. Tel. 2149 2149

q Novamobili wardrobes are functional, modular and fitted with a whole host of accessories. Flush-closing sliding or hinged door wardrobes: a comprehensive system that’s all about flexibility and rationality designed to define and organise the space, with an extensive selection of finishes, handles and internal accessories for customising your look. A large selection of Novamobili wardrobes is available from Satariano, Valley Road, Birkirkara. Tel. 2149 2149

t A wide selection of unique figurines and decorative objects by the renowned Tom’s Company are available at HENRI Luxury Gift Boutique. The idiosyncratic creations make ideal, original gift ideas for him, for her or just for yourself. Visit Henri Luxury Gift Boutique in Mdina (next to Palazzo Falson).

Tel. +356 2010 6307 Facebook facebook/henrimalta

p Make a bold statement and create the perfect evening ambience with distinctive handmade glass table lamps by Mdina Glass. Available in a range of colour patterns, shapes and sizes, these wonderful pieces can be bought with or without the shade. See them in-store or online at www.mdinaglass.com.mt. For more information, call +356 2141 5786, email onlinesales@mdinaglass.com.mt or find Mdina Glass on facebook.com/mdinaglass

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T&F TRENDS

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1. Casa Donoso 2017 Bicentenario Gran Reserva Carmenère, Maule Valley – Chile. This wine boasts a ruby red colour, an aromatic herb nose and flavours of ripe plums and red currants. The Bicentenario Gran Reserva Carmenère is rich in texture with red fruit and green herbs characteristics developing in the mouth, with beautiful velvety tannins.

Serve at 17-18ºC. Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd. Tel. +356 2156 3231 viniecapricci@abrahams.com.mt www.viniecapricci.com

3. Orange, Mango & Cinnamon Infuso by Twinings.

The silky sweet flavour of mangoes is combined with the taste of oranges and a touch of cinnamon for a blend with an indulgently aromatic twist.

With every sip you take, this warm and spicy infusion will take you to a lush green paradise.

The ‘Infuso’ range is an ideal option for those looking for a treat that is both delicious and good for you. Distributed by: Francis Busuttil & Sons Ltd.Tel +356 2549 7000, www.fbsmarketing.com

2. MASI Campofiorin. Masi’s original “Supervenetian” made with the double fermentation method: a red wine made from local Veronese grapes vinified fresh from the harvest and then re-fermented with a small percentage of semi-dried grapes of the same varieties. The wine splendidly encompasses the qualities of the Verona area: the excellence of the zone, the highly individual style of the indigenous Veronese grape varieties, and the originality of the techniques of “appassimento” (semi-drying) and Masi double fermentation.

Combining simplicity and grace with power and majesty. Rich, full-bodied, round and velvety, with an ageing potential of 10 to 15 years. Trade enquiries: Attard & Co. food Ltd, Tel. +356 2123 7555, facebook. com/attardcowines, www.attardcowines.com

4. SNAP UP GRAND VIN DE HAUTEVILLE. Snap up your favourite bottle of Malta’s premium Grand Vin de Hauteville range by Malta’s foremost winemaker, Emmanuel Delicata. The mono-varietal Cabernet Sauvignon and the Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon blend are made from hand-picked grapes from selected family-run vineyards of Malta. The dry white wines purveyed under the same brand name are a judiciously oak-aged Chardonnay and a pure, unwooded Viognier. A sumptuous sweet Moscato dessert wine, too, can be found on well-curated wine lists.www.delicata.com

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5. It’s never too early to plan your Christmas celebrations. Combining delicious food and drink with an exciting and friendly atmosphere, there’s nowhere quite like Ta’ Marija to meet up with work colleagues, family or friends during the festive season. Awarded for over a decade as the Best Maltese Food Restaurant, the stylish surroundings are matched by a quality menu and varied entertainment lineup, including Saturday and Sunday all-inclusive extravaganzas at €30 per person with regular shows and entertainment, and Folklore Dinner Shows every Friday and Wednesday. Ta’ Marija’s festivities line-up promises a perfect place to enjoy a festive feast for good value for money. Visit www.tamarija.com to find out more, or call +356 2143 4444.

6. October Ahoy! at Valletta Waterfront. Join in the maritime-themed month of free activities.

Enjoy quality time with family and friends against a backdrop of historic bastions, fortifications and the sea. Every Saturday evening and Sunday lunchtime will feature live music, treasure hunts, life-size games, meet & greets with favourite characters, bouncy castles and more. Valletta Waterfront will go spooky during the last weekend, as well on the evening of 31st October in time for Halloween. www.vallettawaterfront.com/octoberahoy

TRENDS T&F

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7. Meridiana Wine Estate’s Fenici White (Chardonnay/Vermentino/Viognier), Fenici Red (Merlot/Cabernet/Syrah) and Fenici Rose (Cabernet Sauvignon) are fast becoming a popular choice among wine lovers. All three wines are produced using only grapes grown in Malta, enjoying DOK classification. Their freshness, fruitiness and elegance makes them a perfect choice with salads, pasta, pizza and seafood. The Fenici range offers great quality and excellent value for money. Visit www.meridiana.com.mt for more information on the full range of Meridiana’s wines. Trade Enquiries: S Rausi Trading Ltd, Wine & Spirit Merchants, Stadium Street, Gzira – call +356 7909 3197 or info@srausi.com, www.srausi.com.mt 8. Taste the Continents with our themed Sunday Lunch menus served at Silver Heron restaurant within Urban Valley Resort & Spa. Our Sunday Buffet lunches offer an enriching distinctive variety of antipasti and mezes, soups and pasta, tasty carvery and roasts, hot dishes and accompaniments and cheese and dessert stations, all featuring tastes and flavours from around the globe. A culinary feast of American, Asian, Mediterranean and African cuisines to be discovered and whet your appetite.

Book your table by calling +356 2138 5926 or email info@urbanvalleyresort.com

9. Sacla expands its pesto portfolio with 4 new exciting pestos – ‘Nduja, Rosso e ricotta, Pecorino and walnut ,and Pecorino and almond. These new Sacla pestos are set to become family favourites with Italian food lovers. Trade Enquiries: Attard & Co. Food Ltd. Tel. +356 2123 7555, Facebook.com/attardcofood 10. The Phoenix Restaurant is a little piece of history nestled snugly into the grandeur of The Phoenicia, an unusually large room filled with natural light and adorned with rich fabrics, enhanced by patterned walls, colourful carpets and fine chandeliers. The quality of design is reflected in the culinary feats of the award-winning brigade of chefs. Here you can enjoy the fresh taste of the Mediterranean with the carefully crafted menu using only the finest ingredients. Open for dinner and weekend brunch, The Phoenix Restaurant eagerly awaits your visit. The Phoenicia Malta. Tel: +356 2122 5241, dine@phoeniciamalta.com, www.phoeniciamalta.com

11. Pascual Yogikids Yogurt Banana With Strawberry Flavour. Yogikids is designed for children from one year of age, and special care has been taken in developing a nutritious product. Pascual Yogikids Yoghurt Banana With Strawberry Flavour is a delicious health snack for your growing child, a good source of calcium which promotes the growth and development of bones and teeth. It is also high in vitamin A & D, which help strengthens the immune system. Pascual Products may be chilled or stored at room temperature, making them ideal for snacks and lunch breaks.

12. TukTuk South Indian Kitchen now launches TukTuk Deli. An Indian Deli counter that specialises in food from South Indian and beyond, providing you with a variety of pre-cooked Indian dishes, prepared fresh from scratch by TukTuk’s professional chefs for you to take home or eat on the go. The counter features a selection of street food nibbles, veggie and meat cutlets, classic curries, Kerala kitchen specialities, biryanis, chutneys, street rolls, salads, sweets and so on. Gluten-controlled, lactose-free, vegetarian and vegan options are also available. Open daily, inside PAVI Shopping Complex, Qormi (row 19). For more info email namaste@tuktuk.com.mt or call +356 9914 7123.

Facebook.com/tuktukdeli, Instagram.com/tuktukdeli

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T&F EXHIBITION

Paul Gauguin Vahine no te vi (Woman with a Mango), 1892 The Baltimore Museum of Art The Cone Collection, formed by Dr. Claribel Cone and Miss Etta Cone of Baltimore, Maryland; BMA 1950.213 The Baltimore Museum of Art / Photo: Mitro Hood

GAUGUIN PORTRAITS 7 OCTOBER 2019 – 26 JANUARY 2020

SAINSBURY WING, NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON

Paul Gauguin Contes barbares, 1902 Museum Folkwang Essen (Inv. G 54) © Museum Folkwang Essen / ARTOTHEK

Paul Gauguin was inspired to visit French Polynesia partly because of the exotic novels of Pierre Loti (whose naval training included a stay in Tahiti), his photographs of Borobudur sculptures, and Pacific exhibits he had seen at Paris’s Exposition Universelle in 1889. His own upbringing in Peru allowed him to think of himself as someone who stood outside the European tradition, a ‘savage’, while the European artistic and literary circles in which he moved helped shape his views towards Tahiti and the Marquesas.

Although fully aware of the Western portrait tradition, Gauguin was rarely interested in exploring his sitters’ social standing, personality, or family background, which had been among the main reasons for portraiture in the past. Inspired by his time spent in Brittany and French Polynesia from the mid1880s to the end of his life in 1903, the artist became fascinated by societies that, to him, seemed close to nature. With their folktale heritage and spirituality, these communities appeared to him to be far removed from the industrialisation of Paris.

The first-ever exhibition devoted to the portraits of Paul Gauguin shows how the French artist, famous for his paintings of French Polynesia, revolutionised the portrait. Together with his use of intense colour and his interest in non-Western subject matter, his approach had a far-reaching influence on artists throughout the late 19th and 20th centuries including Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso.

The exhibition is curated by Cornelia Homburg and Christopher Riopelle from an initial concept by Cornelia Homburg. Cornelia Homburg is the guest curator for the National Gallery of Canada, and Christopher Riopelle is the Neil Westreich Curator of Post-1800 Paintings at the National Gallery, London. n

Paul Gauguin Clovis Asleep, 1884 Private collection © Photo courtesy of the owner

The next issue of will be out on 3rd November 2019 with The Malta Independent on Sunday.

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For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt