Taste & Flair October 2020

ISSUE 133 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

OCTOBER 2020

Feed your imagination FOOD 路 DRINK 路 INTERIOR DESIGN 路 ART 路 ARCHITECTURE

25% o all kitchens Extended till October Italian, German and local custom made

Joinwell Mill Street, Qormi +356 2278 2000 info@joinwell.com.mt www.joinwell.com.mt

T&F EDITORIAL The Olive Houses by mar plus ask, photographed by PietAlbert Goethals. See feature starting on page 72.

Welcome T

he cooler winds of autumn bring some welcome relief from the heat of high summer and a turning inwards to the comforts of home.

As the days grow shorter and we begin to spend more time indoors than out, the pleasures of home decorating and home cooking come into their own.

Daily meal preparation is made all the brighter when it’s lit by the spark of a new idea – a fresh way of combining ingredients, perhaps, or a new way of presenting a familiar dish – especially at times when it is a necessity rather than a leisurely pursuit. Our cooks happily spend hours in the kitchen, yet most of their recipes can be prepared in under an hour, and we hope you’ll try some of what you’ll find in these pages. If you’re looking around at your home and wondering what you could do to freshen up its look, think about adding some brightly coloured cushions to your living room, some new accessories to the bedroom or bathroom, and a few plants anywhere from your front door to your back window. Little touches can make a big difference. Bring in the new, but don’t throw out the old. What matters is how you bring it all together. For inspiration, take a look at how one young designer renovated an old house, giving it a bright, contemporary feel without stripping it of its character. There’s more in this issue and we hope you will enjoy it.

We’ll be back on 1st November with another gorgeous issue of Taste&Flair.

If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher.

Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*.

The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

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ISSUE 133 OCTOBER 2020

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T&F CONTENTS

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p26

CONTENTS

12

Dorado Michael Diacono reinvents a seasonal favourite

26

Soup for the soul Mandy Mallia’s autumnal flavours

30

Teatime treats Claire Borg’s sweet feast

48

Light as air Amy Mallia’s homemade honeycomb

p72

54

Regeneration At home in historic Cospicua

68

The art of discovery Megan Mallia on enjoying art

72

The Olive Houses A retreat in an ancient olive grove

80

Taste&Flair Notebook Pomegranate season

50

Terra Incognita Andrew Azzopardi maps out Spanish wines

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p30 8

ISSUE 133 OCTOBER 2020

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T&F FRESH

Farfalle with spinach, mushrooms & toasted pine nuts A quick and easy vegetarian pasta dish, perfect for a mid-week meal and unexpected guests, this can also be made gluten-free by using a glutenfree pasta option.

1. Boil the pasta in plenty of

Serves 4

3. Gently fry the garlic in a frying pan with a little extra-virgin olive oil. When it is golden brown, remove it and add the onion.

Gently fry the onion until it starts to caramelise and then add the mushrooms and fry for 3 to 4 minutes. Finally, add the spinach and season with salt and pepper.

YOU WILL NEED

400g farfalle 500g spinach 2 cloves of garlic 1 medium onion 400g mushrooms a dash of extra-virgin olive oil 60g pine nuts 80g grated Parmesan cheese

salted water, following the instructions on the packet.

2. Steam the spinach for a couple

of minutes until it starts to soften.

If you don’t have a steamer, simply boil it for a few minutes.

4. Toast the pine nuts for a few minutes and then add them to the frying pan. Stir well.

5. Mix everything with the farfalle, season with salt and pepper to taste and serve with some grated Parmesan cheese on top.

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ISSUE 133 OCTOBER 2020

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BIODEGRADABLE BOTTLE

T&F IN SEASON

Autumn brings with it an abundance of lampuki.

Traditionally fried or turned into pies, this fish is really very versatile and can be used in so many different ways. A good and friendly fishmonger would be a great help with filleting and skinning.

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IN SEASON T&F

Take the taste of summer into autumn with new ways of serving seasonal fish

DO RA DO Food: Michael Diacono, chef patron, Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro Food taster: George Diacono Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi Styling and photography: Brian Grech

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T&F IN SEASON

LAMPUKI ESCABECHE A great way to prepare lampuki ahead and to serve at room temperature as a light starter.

Serves 4 Cooking time: 30 minutes Recommended wine: Txakoli (Spain) or Australian/New Zealand Pinot Noir YOU WILL NEED

5 tablespoons olive oil • 1 red onion, peeled and sliced 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 2 carrots, peeled and sliced • chilli 1 teaspoon fennel seeds • 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped a handful parsley, roughly chopped 150ml apple cider vinegar 1 kg lampuki fillets, cut into 5cm-lengths • Salt and pepper

1. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan. Add the

onion, garlic and carrots and sweat them for 5 minutes. Next, add chilli and the seeds and mix well.

Then add the tomatoes and parsley, and mix well.

2. Add the vinegar and leave the mixture to bubble for a few minutes before turning off the heat.

Season and leave it to cool to room temperature.

3. Transfer the mixture to a deep dish. Heat some more olive oil in a clean pan. Season the lampuki with salt and fry them, skin side down, for 4 minutes.

4. Place the fish on top of the cooled escabeche and drizzle with olive oil. Cover with cling wrap and leave to marinate overnight. Remove from the fridge 1 hour before serving.

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IN SEASON T&F

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T&F IN SEASON

LAMPUKI BURGERS WITH HOMEMADE KETCHUP This is a child-friendly way to use lampuki. Well, older children would love these too. I know I do.

Serves 8/10 • Preparation and cooking time: 90 minutes • Recommended wine: Dry South African Chenin Blanc HOME MADE KETCHUP

BURGERS

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 red onion, peeled and chopped 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1kg sun-ripened local tomatoes, washed and halved 1 teaspoon freshly milled black pepper ½ teaspoon salt 1 pinch chilli (optional) 2 teaspoons freshly chopped thyme 1 cinnamon stick or 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 fresh bay leaves 60g sugar 150ml red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 red onions, peeled and chopped 8 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1.5kg filleted and skinned lampuki a good handful of parsley, chopped 1 small bunch of basil, chopped 3 eggs 250g fresh breadcrumbs salt and pepper 10 burger buns sliced tomatoes, salad leaves or rocket to serve

1. Heat the extra-virgin olive oil

in a large pot. Add the onion and garlic and stir fry them on gentle heat for 5 minutes to soften.

2. Increase the heat and add the halved tomatoes. Add the pepper, salt, chilli if using, thyme, cinnamon, bay leaves and sugar.

Stir well and cook for 15 to 20 minutes. The tomatoes should break down and release their juices.

3. Continue to cook the mixture until it starts to dry out, then add the vinegar. Boil out for 5 minutes, then turn off the heat and let the pot cool.

4. When the mixture has cooled down, transfer it to a food processor, removing the cinnamon stick and bay leaves first. Blend till smooth then run the mixture through a mouli or a fine sieve.

5. Pour into a clean glass jar and

keep in the fridge. Use within 1 week or freeze for up to 3 months.

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1. Heat the oil in a skillet and stir fry the

chopped onion and garlic for a few minutes to soften, then leave them to cool slightly.

2. Take 1 kg of the fish, place it in a food processor and blend, then transfer it to a large mixing bowl. Cut the other 500g by hand into very small pieces and add them to the bowl. Add the cooled cooked onions and garlic, the chopped parsley and mint, the 3 eggs and the breadcrumbs.

Season well and mix till amalgamated.

3. Using damp hands, shape the mixture into burgers of approximately 100g each and place them onto a lined tray. Let them chill in the fridge for 20 minutes.

4. To serve, heat up the grill and brush it with oil. Grill the burgers for 4 minutes on each side. Serve them on toasted buns with the homemade ketchup, sliced tomatoes and salad leaves.

IN SEASON T&F

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IN SEASON T&F

LAMPUKI AND PEA RISOTTO Delicate and satisfying, the secret of this risotto is a good stock made with the fish bones.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking time: 60 minutes Recommended wine: Lightly oaked Chablis YOU WILL NEED

1 lampuka of 1 kg, filleted, head, spine and tail retained 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 275g arborio rice • 100ml dry white wine salt and pepper • 1 – 1.2lt fish stock 100g garden peas 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons grated pecorino romano

1. First, prepare a good stock. Place

the fish head, tail and spine into a pot and cover them with water.

Season lightly. Add 1 small chopped onion, 1 peeled and chopped carrot, 1 stick celery, 4 fresh bay leaves and a ¼ of a lemon.

2. Bring the mixture to the boil and let it simmer for 20 minutes only.

Strain the liquid through a sieve and discard the fish bones and vegetables. Keep the stock warm.

3. Chop the fish into small 1cm cubes.

4. Heat the 3 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil in a large pot.

Add the chopped onion and sweat it for a few minutes to soften.

Add the rice, stir and season.

5. Fry the rice for 2 minutes then

douse with the white wine and let it evaporate. Start adding the fish stock slowly and cook out adding more as you go along. Keep stirring.

6. The rice should be nearly done after

16-18 minutes. Now, add the chopped fish and peas and mix them in.

7. Remove the pan from the heat then beat in the 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and the grated pecorino and serve. I garnished this with the deep fried skin of the lampuka.

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T&F IN SEASON

LAMPUKI ‘SALT-IN-BOCCA’

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Lampuki being quite a flavourful fish allows for the combination of strong flavours imparted by sage and pancetta.

This dish is very easy to prepare but is cheffy enough to serve to guests at home.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking time: 40 minutes Recommended wine: Italian MĂźllerThurgau from Alto Adige YOU WILL NEED

1kg filleted and skinned lampuki 8 slices pancetta 8 sage leaves salt and pepper seasoned flour 25g butter 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 100ml dry white wine

1. Season the fish and lay the

sage leaves over them. Wrap the pancetta around the fish and secure the portions with toothpicks.

2. Pass the fish portions through seasoned flour until well coated.

3. Heat the butter in a large frying pan together with some extra-virgin olive oil.

4. Fry the fish for 3 minutes on each side. Douse with the white wine and leave the liquid to reduce before serving the fish at once on warmed plates.

T&F IN SEASON

LAMPUKI SCOTCH EGGS

This is a fun way to use lampuki, and it’s super delicious too.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking time: 60 minutes Recommended wine: Traditional method sparkling wine such as Champagne or Cava YOU WILL NEED

4 fresh eggs 800g filleted and skinned lampuki 100g local ricotta cheese 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley ½ tablespoon finely chopped mint 1 tablespoon finely chopped capers grated zest of ½ a lemon 1 egg to bind salt and pepper flour to coat 2 lightly beaten eggs to coat 150g breadcrumbs to coat

1. Boil the 4 eggs for 5 minutes only, then

refresh under cold water at once. Let the eggs cool, then peel them very carefully as the yolk will not be set. Set them aside.

2. Place the fish and ricotta into a food processor and pulse to chop finely but slightly coarse.

Next, transfer the mixture to a bowl.

3. Stir in the chopped herbs and capers. Season with the lemon zest, salt and pepper. Mix in the one egg to help bind the mixture, and stir it in well to combine the ingredients.

4. Dust the peeled eggs in flour and, using damp hands, cover them completely with the fish mix. Transfer the coated eggs to a plate and leave them to rest for an hour in the fridge.

5. Pass the eggs through flour to coat

them well, then through the beaten eggs, and finally coat with breadcrumbs. Set them aside until it’s time to fry them.

6. Heat some oil in a deep pot till 180°C

then carefully fry the eggs for 3 minutes until golden. Drain on kitchen paper and serve at once with tartare sauce.

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IN SEASON T&F

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T&F IN SEASON

DRY MARINATED LAMPUKI A blend of spices rubbed into the fish and left to infuse give a warm and pleasing finish to this recipe. A fresh yoghurt sauce and lime brighten it all up.

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IN SEASON T&F

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking time: 45 minutes, excluding marinating time Recommended wine: Rhône Valley Viognier YOU WILL NEED

1.2kg tranche cuts of lampuki 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon ground cumin juice of 1 lime extra-virgin olive oil to fry 150ml plain yoghurt a little fresh mint, finely chopped ½ teaspoon coriander seeds, lightly toasted lime wedges to serve

1. Mix all the spices together and

use them to rub all over the fish pieces. Place them into a large glass dish, cover with plastic wrap and leave in the fridge for 4 hours.

2. Meanwhile, mix the yoghurt with the chopped mint and toasted coriander seeds. Keep them cool till needed.

3. Preheat the oven to 185°C. Heat

some olive oil in a large pan. Fry the fish for 2 minutes on each side to colour, then transfer them to a baking tray. Finish cooking in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes.

4. Serve with lime wedges and yoghurt dressing on the side..

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T&F QUICK MEALS

SOUP FOR THE SOUL Vegetable soups are a warming and comforting way to use up leftover vegetables. Serve these with warm, fresh, crusty bread.

Food by Mandy Mallia • Photography: Megan Mallia Whether you’ve got a bag of mushrooms crammed into your freezer or fresh mushrooms in your fridge, this hearty soup is a good way of turning them into something tasty. This was made with fresh brown mushrooms, but any other sort can be used. If you don’t have any Marsala wine, try replacing it with dark sherry or port.

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QUICK MEALS T&F

Preparation and cooking 45 minutes Serves 6 YOU WILL NEED

100g of butter • 1 tablespoon of olive oil 750g mushrooms • 6 tablespoons flour 2 medium onions, peeled and finely chopped 4-5 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped 200ml Marsala (or dark sherry or port) 1 litre chicken stock salt and pepper, to taste 1 teaspoon fresh dill, finely chopped 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, finely chopped 1 small carton fresh cream or 1½ small tins of double cream 1 tablespoon of finely chopped fresh chives, to garnish

1. Melt the butter in a heavy-based

pot, add the olive oil and let it heat gently. Add the onion and fry it lightly, stirring, for 2-3 minutes until it softens slightly. Add the garlic to the pot and cook it for around a minute while stirring.

2. If you are using fresh mushrooms, wipe them down with a piece of kitchen paper and rinse them quickly under running water.

Chop off and discard the bottom ends of the stalks and slice the mushrooms vertically and evenly.

3. Add the mushrooms to the pot, stir them in, and let them cook for 4-5 minutes. Add the Marsala (or sherry or port), stir it in and let the pot cook for 2-3 minutes.

4. Add the flour, dill and parsley to the pan and stir the mixture over a low heat until well combined.

5. Now, add the chicken stock to

Mushroom & Marsala

the pot and stir it in. Bring the pot to the boil, then lower the heat and let it simmer, stirring occasionally, for around 10-15 minutes until the soup thickens.

6. Stir in the cream, then season

with salt and pepper to taste and serve in warmed plates or bowls, garnished with chopped chives.

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T&F QUICK MEALS

CARROT, CUMIN & CORIANDER

The soup has a rather thick consistency, which makes it filling enough for a light meal on its own or served with some fresh, crusty bread. It is best made with fresh carrots, but if you’re pressed for time, frozen ones would work just as well. If you don’t have any fresh coriander, use ground or frozen.

1. Melt one

Preparation and cooking 45 minutes • Serves 6

2. Add the potato,

YOU WILL NEED

1 medium onion, peeled and diced • 1 litre chicken stock 1 large potato or 2 medium ones, peeled and diced 1kg carrots, peeled and diced • 1 pinch ground cumin ½ teaspoon cumin seeds, plus a few more to garnish 1 tablespoon fresh coriander, chopped 1 tablespoon finely chopped dill, plus a little more to garnish tablespoon butter, for frying • salt and pepper, to taste

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tablespoon of butter in a large pot. Add the onion and fry it gently for 2-3 minutes until it softens slightly.

the cumin seeds and a sprinkling of ground cumin, and cook, stirring, for a minute or two. Add 1 litre of chicken stock, stir it in and bring the pot to the boil.

3. Add the diced carrots together with 1 teaspoon of chopped, fresh coriander (or use frozen leaves or ground coriander).

4. Bring the pot

to the boil again, then turn down the heat and let it simmer for 20 minutes or so until the carrots soften.

5. Next, remove

the pot from the heat and use a stick blender to roughly purée the soup.

6. Serve the

soup in warmed bowls or plates, garnished with a sprinkling of cumin seeds, or with chopped fresh coriander.

TEATIME T&F

Tiered Cakes Teatime Treats AND

Make teatime more delightful with a fresh take on a tiered cake and an array of scrumptious biscuits. Claire Borg’s bakes are perfect for a lazy weekend afternoon. The photos are hers too.

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T&F TEATIME

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TEATIME T&F

Ombre Cake serves 16

FOR THE FRESH PRUNE/PLUM AND RASPBERRY COMPOTE

500g fresh prunes or red plums 200g fresh or frozen raspberries • 250g sugar FOR THE CAKE

700g plain flour • 7 teaspoons baking powder 700g sugar • 7 eggs • 350ml vegetable oil 350ml milk • 40ml white vinegar a few drops of vanilla essence • red food colouring TO DECORATE

1l whipped cream fresh prune/plum and raspberry compote prunes and raspberries

1. Preheat the oven to 170˚C. 2. For the compote, wash the prunes/plums, remove the stones and chop them up roughly. Place them in a saucepan with the raspberries and sugar.

3. Over a medium heat, stir until the sugar dissolves, then allow to simmer for around 30 minutes.

Let it cool before blending until smooth.

4. To make the cake, sift the baking powder and flour into a large bowl, and then mix in the sugar.

5. In another bowl, pour the vinegar over the milk. Let it

stand for 5 minutes before mixing in the vanilla, eggs and oil. Pour and fold into the dry mix of the previous step.

6. Now this is when the ombre magic comes in. Divide

the mix equally into 6 separate bowls. Line them in a row, and use a good old-fashioned pen and paper to note down what you are doing to each. Add 18 drops of red food colouring to the first bowl, 15 to the second, 12 to the third, 9 to the fourth, 6 to the fifth, and 3 to the last. Stir each mix very well.

7. Bake each layer in the preheated oven for around 15 minutes or until done.

8. Allow to cool completely before assembling.

9. When assembling the cake, the goal is to create a

gradation of colour from darkest to lightest. Spread some compote and whipped cream onto each layer, excluding the lightest, which will be at the top. Create 3 stacks of 2 layers each, chill them for about an hour and then stack them to put together the whole cake.

10. To decorate, cover the cake with cream and

garnish with fresh prunes and raspberries.

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T&F TEATIME

FOR THE SHORTBREAD

450g butter, at room temperature 200g brown sugar 550g plain flour TO DECORATE

1 bar dark chocolate 2 tablespoons dried rose petals

1. As always, preheat

the oven first. In this case, set it to 170ËšC.

2. Mix all the ingredients, and, using a paddle attachment, work until it has a fine, breadcrumblike texture.

3. Turn out the dough onto a clean surface and knead it slightly to bring together. Then cover it with cling film and let it chill for about 30 minutes.

4. Roll out the dough to ž of an inch thick, and cut it into fingers. Place the pieces of dough on a lined or greased, or non-stick, baking tray, and prick each one lightly with a fork.

5. Bake in the preheated

oven for 25-30 minutes.

When the biscuits are ready, let them cool on a rack.

6. To decorate, use dreamy

All Butter Shortbread 34

ISSUE 133 OCTOBER 2020

dark chocolate and dried rose petals for contrast.

Break up the chocolate into small pieces and melt them in a heatproof bowl set over a pot of simmering water. Dip the shortbread fingers into the molten chocolate and sprinkle them with rose petals.

ORGANIC

e closes h T

e to milk ativ

an altern g e tv

w e N

NATURALLY LACTOSE FREE, VEGAN, AND GLUTEN FREE

e

N

ot G lu t e n Fr e

Lactose Free

try them all!

IS A COMPLETE RANGE OF LACTOSE AND MILK PROTEIN FREE PRODUCTS PERFECT FOR ANY TIME OF DAY.

T&F TEATIME

VANILLA AND LEMON SCENTED BISCUITS – TWO WAYS

Carrot-shaped Biscuits

FOR THE BISCUITS

500g plain flour • 250g sugar 300g cold butter, chopped 1 vanilla pod, scraped, seeds only 2 eggs • zest of 1 lemon FOR THE ROYAL ICING

lemon juice • icing sugar orange food colouring

1. Preheat the oven

to 170˚C.

2. Sift the flour, then mix in the sugar. Add the chopped cold butter and rub it in.

3. Beat the eggs, toss in the lemon zest and vanilla, and then add the wet mixture to the crumb mixture. You can spice it up with some orange and a pinch of ground ginger.

4. Bring the dough together, but make sure not to overwork it. Wrap it in cling film and allow it to chill for at least an hour.

5. Roll out the dough to

a good thickness. The thinner it is, the quicker the biscuits will cook. Just note that if you are making more than one batch, the dough should be rolled out to the same thickness.

6. Cut the dough with a

carrot-shaped cutter, and place each piece on a lined or greased baking tray, or a non-stick tray.

Bake until golden, then place on a rack to cool.

7. To make the royal icing, mix the lemon juice with icing sugar, and colour half of it with a dot of orange food colouring. Pipe onto the cooled biscuits and allow the icing to dry well before storing or serving.

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Discover the American Dream From Monday 5th October

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Discover more Mcennedy products in our stores.

T&F TEATIME

VANILLA AND LEMON SCENTED BISCUITS – TWO WAYS

Heart Biscuits You will need heartshaped biscuit cutters in two sizes

Taste&Flair note: Homemade jam will make these extra-special. There’s a delicious recipe for strawberry jam in our July 2020 issue.

FOR THE BISCUITS

500g plain flour • 250g sugar 300g cold butter, chopped 1 vanilla pod, scraped, seeds only 2 eggs • zest of 1 lemon FOR THE FILLING

jam of your choice

1. To begin, preheat

the oven to 170˚C.

2. Sift the flour, mix in the sugar, and then add and rub in the chopped cold butter.

3. Beat the eggs, then

toss in the lemon zest and vanilla. Add this mix to the crumb mixture.

4. Making sure not to overwork it, bring the dough together. Wrap in cling film and allow to chill for at least an hour.

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ISSUE 133 OCTOBER 2020

5. Roll out the dough

to a good thickness. If you are making more than one batch, roll out each batch of dough to the same thickness.

6. Cut the dough using the

larger heart-shaped cutter.

Then, using the smaller one, remove a heart-shaped piece of dough from half the biscuit shapes so that you’re left with heartshaped “frames”. (You can bake the cut out dough shapes into mini-biscuits.)

7. Place each piece of cut dough onto a lined or greased, or non-stick, baking tray. Bake in the pre-heated oven until golden, then place them on a rack to cool down.

8. Once cooled, spread the

whole heart shapes with jam of your choice and top each one with a heartshaped “frame”. If the jam is too chunky, just blend it a little to make it smooth beforehand. Press the two halves lightly together so that the jam fills the centre of the “frame”.

T&F TEATIME

Salted Caramel and Chocolate Cake serves 16

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TEATIME T&F

FOR THE CAKE

475g plain flour • 125g cocoa powder 6 teaspoons baking powder • 600g sugar 6 eggs • 300ml milk • 40g vinegar 300ml vegetable oil 150ml hot strong coffee FOR THE CREAM

1l whipping cream 300g dark chocolate FOR THE SALTED CARAMEL

220g sugar • 125ml water 60g butter • 125g whipping cream a few drops of vanilla essence 1/2 teaspoon sea salt

This cake is baked in 6 separate layers, so make sure you weigh the whole mix and divide it equally into 6 parts. As mentioned below, you can use 3 identical tins and bake the layers in 2 batches.

1. Preheat the oven to 170˚C. 2. Pour the vinegar into the milk.

Let it stand and set aside.

3. Meanwhile, sift the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and sugar into a large bowl. Together, these will make up the dry mix.

4. Coming back to the vinegar and milk, add the eggs and oil and mix well. Pour and fold this wet mix into the dry mix.

5. Brew the coffee. Whilst it’s still hot,

pour it into the mixture and mix.

6. Divide the mix into two bowls.

Set one bowl aside, and divide the mixture of the other bowl into 3 identical baking tins. Bake in the preheated oven until done, which is around 15 minutes.

Allow to cool when ready.

Repeat for the other bowl.

7. In the meantime, melt the chocolate and let it cool. Whip the cream, and then fold it into the chocolate.

Make sure that this chocolate cream has cooled for at least 30 minutes before assembling the cake.

8. To make the salted caramel, place

the water and sugar in a saucepan and cook for around 4 minutes.

Add the butter and stir only until it dissolves, then allow it to boil for 1215 minutes until it turns a deep gold.

9. Remove the caramel from the heat

11. Now for assembly. To make sure that the cream has completely set, create 3 stacks of 2 layers each, chill them for an hour, and then assemble the whole cake afterwards.

10. Once the cake layers, cream

12. With the remaining cream, coat the outside of the cake. To decorate the top, you could use choux buns filled with whipped cream – frozen readymade ones will work in a pinch, too. Finish off with a drizzle of salted caramel and melted chocolate.

and, whilst stirring, slowly pour in the cream. Take special care because the mix is extremely hot. Add the vanilla and salt, and mix. Set aside to cool.

and salted caramel have all cooled completely, it’s finally time to assemble the cake. Spread a thin layer of caramel onto 5 of the layers, leaving the sixth one for the top.

Spoon or pipe the cream onto each layer and spread evenly, but keep some aside for the outside of the cake.

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T&F TEATIME

Coconut cake with passion fruit and mango sauce serves 16

FOR THE PASSION FRUIT AND MANGO SAUCE

1 mango • 3 passion fruits 2 tablespoons sugar FOR THE CAKE

500g plain flour • 6 teaspoons baking powder 600g sugar • 150g desiccated coconut 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger • zest of 1 lime 6 eggs • 300ml milk 320ml vegetable oil a few drops of vanilla essence TO DECORATE

lime wedges • 600ml whipped cream crushed pistachios toasted coconut

1. Preheat the oven to 170˚C. 2. Start by making the sauce. To do this, peel the mango and chop it up roughly.

Place it in a small saucepan with the sugar and cook for about 5 minutes.

3. Place the cooked mango and sugar in a jug and blend. When cool, add the passionfruit and stir. Set the sauce aside to serve with the cake.

4. Now for the actual cake. Sift the flour, baking powder and spices into a large bowl. Add the coconut, sugar and lime zest and mix well.

5. In another bowl, mix the eggs, milk,

vanilla and oil. Pour and fold this wet mix into the dry mix of the previous step.

6. Divide the mix evenly into 3 cake tins

of the same size. Bake in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes or until done.

Leave to cool before assembling.

7. To assemble the cake, scoop two tablespoons of the fruit sauce onto two of the layers. Leave the top layer plain. Then, spread whipped cream onto the two layers, making sure to keep some aside. Level out the cream and stack the layers.

8. Use the remaining whipped cream

to cover the outside of the cake. To decorate, sprinkle pistachios and garnish with lime wedges and toasted coconut.

Serve the fruit sauce on the side.

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TEATIME T&F

Scones makes 12

It’s scone as in “gone” not scone as in “stone”, but these can only be pronounced as delicious. The formal way to eat a scone is to first spoon enough jam and cream for a single scone onto your plate. Then break off a bite-sized piece of scone and, using a knife, top it with a little bit of the jam and cream from your plate.

FOR THE SCONES

95g cold butter, chopped into small pieces 115g sugar 35g baking powder 190g strong flour (bread flour) 310g soft flour (cake flour) 200ml milk 1 egg TO SERVE

clotted cream strawberry jam

1. First, preheat the oven to 220˚C. 2. Place the chopped butter, sugar, sifted baking powder and flours in a mixer with a paddle attachment. Mix until you achieve a crumbly texture.

3. Whisk an egg together with milk, and add to the mixture. Mix this just until the dough comes together.

You don’t want to overwork it.

4. Roll out the dough into a rectangle about an inch thick, then use a round metal cutter to cut out thick discs.

5. Line or grease a baking tray, or

use a non-stick tray, and allow the discs to rest on it for 10-15 minutes.

6. Beat an egg with a drop of milk to

make egg wash. Use this to brush the tops of the dough discs, then bake them in the preheated oven until they puff up slightly and turn golden.

7. Serve your scones warm with clotted cream and strawberry jam.

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Lemon and Almond Cake Serves 16

YOU WILL NEED

300g sugar • 250g flour 100g ground almonds zest of two small lemons juice of 1 lemon 3 teaspoons baking powder 4 tablespoons Greek yoghurt 3 whole eggs • 1 egg yolk 100ml vegetable oil 100ml milk • 180g butter

1. Preheat the oven to 170°C. Rub

the baking mould lightly with butter and sprinkle it with flour.

I used a baking mould with an intricate design. After buttering it, I coated it with fine breadcrumbs instead of flour to make sure the baked cake can be removed whole and without difficulty.

2. Using a whisk attachment, cream the sugar and butter until they are light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating the mixture well between each one. Then add the single yolk and beat the mixture again.

3. Add the lemon zest and juice of the lemon and beat until combined. Next, while beating the mixture, slowly add the oil and then the yoghurt.

4. Sift the baking powder with the flour and fold them into the cake batter, then pour the batter into the prepared cake mould.

5. As my cake mould is deep, I

baked the cake for approximately an hour. If you are using a normal baking tin, it might take less time, so after about 40 minutes, check whether the cake is done.

6. Let the cooked cake stand in

the mould for ten minutes to cool slightly, then turn out onto a wire rack and let it cool completely.

7. To decorate the cake, I mixed icing sugar with lemon juice to make lemon icing and then drizzled this over the cake and sprinkled it with coarse sugar.

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THE HOME OF WORLD-CLASS WINES PROUDLY PRODUCED IN SOUTH AFRICA FOR TRADE ENQUIRIES

GOZITANO AGRICULTURAL VILLAGE MGARR ROAD, XEWKIJA GOZO E: info@abrahams.com.mt T: (356) 2156 3231

T&F SWEETS

Dreamy Honeycomb Light, sweet, and crunchy, honeycomb is easy and fun to make at home Cooking: Amy Mallia • Photography: Megan Mallia

Honeycomb is a fun treat to take over to friends or to family tea parties, or simply just to indulge in at home. We used to love making it when we were younger. Honeycomb puts a smile on everyone’s face. Cover it in luscious dark chocolate, and it will melt everyone’s hearts. You can skip the chocolate, but it really makes it that much more special.

Makes enough to fill a large plate YOU WILL NEED

100g caster sugar 100g golden syrup 1½ teaspoons bicarbonate of soda 150g dark chocolate

1. Before you start, make sure to have a large sheet of baking paper or a lined baking tray set on a heatproof surface so that you can pour out the mixture as soon as it’s ready.

2. Mix the sugar and golden syrup together in a small, deep pan before setting it on the heat.

To stop the syrup sticking to the spoon, lightly oil it first.

3. Now, heat the pan. Within

a few minutes, the sugar will dissolve. Leave the pan on the heat until the mixture is bubbling and caramel-coloured.

4. Working quickly, remove the pan from the heat, add the bicarbonate of soda and whisk it in. As the bicarbonate of soda reacts, the caramel mixture will turn foamy.

5. Pour the foamy mixture out

onto the sheet of baking paper or lined baking tray lined with the paper and allow it to dry and set into a honeycomb. This should take roughly half an hour. Once the honeycomb cools and firms up, hit it with the back of a spoon to shatter it into rough shards.

6. Now, melt the dark chocolate in a

bain-marie. Break up the chocolate into small pieces, place them in a heatproof bowl and set the bowl over a pan of boiling water over a low heat. Stir the chocolate occasionally to make sure it melts evenly and doesn’t caramelise or burn.

7. Once the chocolate has melted, remove the bowl from the heat and allow it to cool slightly. Use two forks to dip and turn the honeycomb shards in the chocolate until they are well coated. Remove each piece of coated honeycomb before dipping in the next one. Place each piece on a clean sheet of baking paper and allow the chocolate to cool down and set properly.

8. Store the coated honeycomb

in an airtight tin or serve it in a colourful dish with coffee or tea.

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T&F WINE

TERRA INCOGNITA Andrew Azzopardi explores the world of Spanish wine

S

panish-American chef, restaurateur and founder of World Central Kitchen (WCK) José Andrés once said “Spain is a fascinating mix of people, culture and food, but if there is one thing all Spaniards share, it’s a love of food and drink”.

I cannot agree with him more. Spain’s passion for food and wine is palpable, from the hip tapas bars in the side-streets of Barcelona to the gastronomic Mercado de San Miguel in Madrid, to the most Michelin-starred place in the world (per capita) – San Sebastian. It’s no wonder. According to MacNeil’s “The Wine Bible, Spain is the most widely vineplanted country in the world and the world’s second largest wine producer, behind Italy, but ahead of France.

Yet, mention Spanish wine and most people will think of Sangria. That’s because Spanish wines are not quite as well known as Italian, French, or Californian wine, even though some of the most prized wines in the world are Spanish. Some of my favourite wines are Spanish, and they come with the added attraction of costing a fraction of the price of renowned wines from Italy and France without compromising on quality.

The world-renowned wine critic Jancis Robinson describes, wine-making in Spain as an “anarchic jumble of districts and regions”, which might explain why Spanish wines are not as widely known as French and Italian wines.

To top it all, historically, many of Spain’s producers rely on local farmers for their grapes instead of growing their own.

Fortunately, several modern producers are reversing that trend, growing their own grapes to ensure the highest quality yield for their wine. And while Spain’s fascination with American oak has often meant that their Gran Reserva wines have too much vanilla overlay, which can put off many drinkers, this practice is also changing. The use of second-hand oak and French oak, which allow for better oak integration, is becoming more widespread.

Spain is such an incredibly diverse country, offering an abundance of wines of different styles and quality from the traditional-method Cava sparkling wine, which is made in the exact same way as Champagne, to rich, powerful red wines from Priorat, bronze-coloured and complex rosé wines, and the fascinating, yet diverse fortified wines from Jerez, better known as Sherry. It is impossible to mention all the wonderful wines the country has to offer, so I’ve limited myself to picking out a few dry wines from some of the more famous and renowned regions. Do keep in mind, though, that there any many more gorgeous Spanish wines just waiting to be discovered.

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Rioja

Rioja is by the far the most popular wine-making region in Spain, referred to as the Spanish “sweetheart”. It is mainly renowned for medium to full-bodied wines made from a high portion of Tempranillo grapes. This dark grape, better known locally as Tinto Fino is commonly blended with Mazuelo, Graciano and the Garnacha Tinto, which itself is enjoying a well-deserved surge in popularity.

Rioja wine is regularly associated with savoury notes, black and red fruit flavours, earthy tobacco components, and vanilla or coconut elements from the frequent aging in wooden oak barrels. Typically, wines from Rioja, besides indicating the region on the bottle, also show the length of aging (see styles of Spanish wines) depicted in Spanish terms on the bottle: Joven, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva.

Even though it is a rather small autonomous village in North-West Spain, Rioja is split into three sub-regions, each with its own style. Rioja Alta, with mostly iron-rich clay mixed with limestone and varying altitudes produces some of the more premium and fascinating wines with amazing structure and refreshing acidity. The smallest sub-region, Rioja Alavesa is better known for producing lighter-bodied wines pertaining to the coolest and wettest climate of the three. Rioja Baja, on the other hand, as its name suggests, is located in the lower eastern sub-region where the warmer and drier climate results in dark, high-alcohol wines, but grape-growers may struggle to achieve the required acidity.

The region also produces some interesting white wines from the Viura grape, known locally as Macabeo, which may be produced as a single varietal or as a blend with Garnacha Blanca, Malvasia and international varieties such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blancs. The Viura grape has also gained some good international recognition and is commonly aged in oak barrels creating deep coloured, aromatic, and often musky and complex white wines.

Ribera del Duero

Rioja’s biggest rival is Ribera del Duero. Though less known outside of Spain and unlike Rioja, Ribera wines are usually produced with single varietal Tempranillo grapes. The region is home to some incredibly complex and age-worthy wines such as the legendary Vega Sicilia, of which their prestigious Unico is sold at an average of €400 a bottle and known to age for 50 years or more.

WINE T&F

As the name implies, this region is situated just off the river Duero and is gifted with a continental and dry climate and altitudes of over 800 metres. Unlike Rioja, Ribera del Duero was formed relatively recently in 1982, owing to the late undertesting of the Tempranillo profile on such soils and difficult microclimates. The wines are often darker, richer, with black fruit character and a higher alcohol content than in Rioja. The high diurnal-temperature variation between daytime and night-time temperatures makes the area more prone to quality differences between one vintage and another.

Priorat

Priorat, located just south of Barcelona, primarily produces extremely powerful wines, but owing to the extreme diversity of the region it is virtually impossible to pigeon-hole their quality and style. Vineyards are planted on slopes with enormously differing aspects and rainfall varies across the region from 450mm to 750mm, so both international varieties such as Caberenet Sauvignon and Syrah, as well as the more traditional grape varieties such as Garnacha and Cariñena, perform well.

Rias Baixas

Rias Baixas is one of the only regions in Spain better known for its whites than its reds - the polar opposite of the arid and dry climate of Priorat. A green, lush region in Galicia, situated in northwest Spain, it is more reminiscent of Ireland than the rest of Spain, and is known for its aromatic superstar grape, Albariño ,with its delightfully refreshing stone fruit flavours, zippy acidity and a touch of salinity. Unlike other regions such as Rioja, Ribera and Priorat, Rasa Baixas winemakers like to showcase their grape on the bottle, making it much easier for consumers to identify.

Great Albariño wines show off beautiful grapefruit and lime flavours with an occasional honey or beeswax backbone, and mouth-watering acidity. Most are meant to be drunk young; however, their high acidity and structure gives them the potential to benefit from several years of aging which makes them very seductive. As the saying goes, wine is often best paired with food of the region. It therefore comes as no surprise that Rias Baixas Albariño and fresh fish are high on my recommendation list. n

Styles of Spanish Styles

Both Rioja and Ribera del Duero fall within four styles of aging wine, which refer to the basic requirements for aging in (American or French) oak barrels and also in the bottle. However, many producers age their wines for much longer, and the price increases accordingly.

JOVEN Joven wines, or young wines do not need to be aged in any wood, whether red, white or rosé. However, they must be bottled and sold within one year of production. Joven wines are often fruity with soft tannins. Winemakers sometimes use the carbonic maceration method to achieve a juicy and easy-drinking wine, which is meant to be drunk in its youth.

CRIANZA Crianza in both Rioja and Ribera del Duero states that wines must be aged 12 months in wood, but whites and rosés from Rioja have no minimum woodaging requirement. In other parts of Spain that use the term Crianza, the red wines must spend a minimum of 6 months in wood, but white and rosé wines also have no minimum wood-aging requirement. All Spanish Crianza red wines must be aged for 24 months before release, while white and rosé wines must be held back for 18 months.

RESERVA Spanish reserva red wines must be aged 12 months in wood, while whites and rosé from Rioja must spend 6 months in wood. All Spanish Reserva red wines must be aged for 36 months before release, while white and rosé wines must be held back for 18 months in total. I find that Reservas often offer the perfect balance between fruit, tannin and complexity without it being overdone.

GRAN RESERVA In Rioja and Ribera del Duero the time in barrel for a Gran Reserva is longer than in the rest of Spain. Gran Reserva in Rioja and Ribera del Duero will need to be barrel-aged for at least two years and then bottle-aged for three years before it can be sold as a Gran Reserva. At a minimum, a red Gran Reserva from La Mancha will be barrel-aged for 1.5 years and bottle-aged for 3.5 years before it is allowed to be sold as a Gran Reserva.

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T&F REGENERATION

LIVING

HISTORY An old house in Cospicua gets a fresh, new look Interior design: Kco Design by Martina Fenech Adami and Gaby Herbert Photography: Ramon Portelli

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I

t’s not often that a closed door makes you smile and you could easily miss this one, tucked away as it is down one of Cospicua’s smaller hilly side streets. But that bright yellow door practically jumps out at you when you’re walking down those old stone stairs in the town’s historic centre. The colour is like a bright ray of sunshine in an otherwise fairly colourless street, flanked either side by large custom-made planters decorated with lemons and paired with a louvred window and compact gallarija in the same cheery hue. It’s the sort of door that makes you wonder what’s going on inside. If what’s upfront looks so inviting, the interior can only be better. And this one lives up to expectations.

THE LOOK IS CONTEMPORARY, BUT ANCHORED IN ITS HISTORICAL CONTEXT.

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GREENERY IS AS IMPORTANT AS THE REST OF THE FURNITURE IN A HOUSE.

T

he house behind that door is the home and, for now, the workplace of Martina, a young designer who is setting up a new practice with her design partner, Gaby, after having worked for architecture and design firms for a few years. It’s hard to believe, but when she first took it on, the building was in a pitiful state, run down and subdivided into tenements with an air of neglect. It is now a warm and welcoming place, filled with natural light and a homely, lived-in feel. The look is contemporary, but anchored in its historical context.

It’s a design approach that is missing in a lot of newer buildings and one that Martina and Gaby want to be central to their work.

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“Bonbon loves exploring this room because he’s not allowed in it!

He’s great to have around though and my partner and I loved working on this room with more time to spare during the lockdown. I picked up a bucket of Sigmacryl from B&G Hardware in Luqa in this shade and set about getting this beautiful blue on the walls. It really brought it all together! ”

Christian Grech

T: 2166 8053 | info@sigmamalta.com | sigmamalta.com |

SigmaMalta

Sigma Coatings is a brand of

T&F REGENERATION

“I

feel like everything was lost when minimalism came in,” Martina says.

“It’s sad because we’ve really steered away from what is the essence of Malta.

We’re an island with a rich cultural past. Think of the old buildings with beautiful detailing, and features like coloured cement tiles.” Gaby trained in ergonomics, so she has an intuitive understanding of why some interiors work and others don’t. “Interiors should be really like you want them to be, even if they’re for rent,” Gaby says. “I’ve lived in short-term rentals and they’re usually not places you’d want to live in permanently. This house is proof that you don’t have to spend the earth to get somewhere that’s really comfortable to live in.”

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00356 2792 2222 OLD RAILWAY TRACK, ST VENERA

WWW.BRIDGEPOINTMALTA.COM

T&F REGENERATION

WHEN I’M DESIGNING, I NEED TO KNOW THE PERSON. THAT HELPS LATER ON WHEN WE NEED TO MAKE DESIGN DECISIONS.

T

he house is a vertically stacked series of rooms connected by the original stone staircase which now winds around a vertical metal spine running from the ground floor to the rooftop. Each floor is designed as an independent studio apartment, but with a consistent design scheme throughout: old cement tile floors which have been cleaned and polished, new tiling that emulates the older style, warm paint colours and textures, custom-built seating that converts into additional sleeping space and doubles up as extra storage, and flashes of yellow that echo the front door.

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“I

had that made,” Martina says of the vertical metal tube that does the job of a stair rail. It’s set with integrated hoops to support plant pots, and trailing plants cascade down its length. It’s one of the design details that take you by surprise, like the Jamaica white bougainvillea on the topmost floor, rooted in an indoor pot and trailed along the inside wall.

Plants are usually plonked into a corner as an afterthought, adding a token bit of green to an interior that is otherwise indifferent to them.

To Martina and Gaby, greenery is as important as the rest of the furniture in a house and “greening” an interior is something they integrate into their design work. “Plants are taken for granted, but should be part of the design process. It’s something we’re trying to focus on. We even do green rooms for our clients,” Martina says.

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W

hen they work on residential design, they sit with their clients to get to know them and their lifestyle before any design work begins. “In that first briefing, I have a lot of questions,” Martina says. “I tell clients I want to get to know you because your house is going to be designed for you. When I’m designing, I need to know the person. That helps later on when we need to make design decisions.” The design process is punctuated by checkpoints: getting to know their client, planning the functional layout, developing the conceptual look and feel. “We won’t just speak to you and give you a design,” Martina says. “It’s more like working together. We try to avoid having problems further down the line.”

There’s no client you can know better than yourself. So how long did it take to do all this? “The first year, I had a few structural amendments done,” Martina says, “and then it took two years. It could have been much faster but the contractors moved at their own pace.” Gaby, had a similar experience her house around the corner. Not all always goes smoothly even for the professionals, it seems, but if you’re in a welcoming home like this one, it’s all worth it in the end. n

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Surfacing the most beautiful spaces

Kitchen top DEKTON SIRIUS

HALMANN VELLA LTD, The Factory, Mosta Road, Lija. LJA 9016. Malta

www.halmannvella.com T: (+356) 21 433 636

E: info@halmannvella.com

T&F CULTURE

p Hokusai’s The Great Wave off Kanagawa is the most recognisable Japanese artwork in the world, but it looks different when ‘read’ from right to left.

THE ART OF

DISCOVERY We are drawn to beauty for a plethora of reasons. Some are universally felt, others are more personal.

By Megan Mallia

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Whenever I looked at Hokusai’s image, the protagonist had always seemed to be the now iconic tumultuous cobalt wave crowned by white horses.

CULTURE T&F

t The most famous pearl in the history of art is worn by the 'Girl with a pearl earring', painted by Johannes Vermeer around 1665.

Pearls, which were fashionable at the time, appear in half of Vermeer's known paintings.

A

rt, in all its forms, is an intrinsic part of human existence. It unleashes creativity, inspires wonder and curiosity, and provides solace in a time of crisis – something that’s been clear to me these past three years. Most often, art is appreciated for its form, colour or composition – a painting, say, hung on a wall because that vase it represents is just lovely to gaze at. Or just think of the Mona Lisa, smiling out coyly from mugs, tea towels and t-shirts in places far away from her current home in Paris’ Louvre Museum.

Every work of art is a living thing whose existence and meaning are nourished by the people who behold it. We might wonder about the story it tells and come away with a dozen interpretations. The story an artwork tells at first sight is just its first level of meaning. The more compelling story is the one hidden beneath the surface, an omnipresence: the person who created the work, and what – or who – drove them to create it.

Sometime in 1997, it was this fascination with the hidden story that made a university student at home in London, gazing up at a poster of Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring, think about the famous artwork differently. “I had always thought she was looking at me, at us,” historical novelist Tracy Chevalier writes retrospectively in the introduction to the 20th anniversary edition of her novel, Girl With A Pearl Earring. “But of course she wasn’t looking at us – she was looking at Vermeer when he painted her. That unreadable gaze – that yearning, guarded look – is at him.”

t Bernini’s life-sized marble sculpture of Apollo and Daphne is housed in Rome’s Galleria Borghese.

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What makes art so fascinating and such a pure wonder is our ability to rediscover a piece.

Our cultural experience accustoms us to seeing things in a particular way, and our art – as well how we read art – reflects that experience. Recently, my maternal grandfather made me realise something I hadn’t noticed about the story that Hokusai’s woodblock print The Great Wave off Kanagawa tells – or more specifically, the way it tells its story.

Whenever I looked at Hokusai’s image, the protagonist had always seemed to be the now iconic tumultuous cobalt wave crowned by white horses.

But when I read the image from right to left, instead of left to right as I had done up till then, the narrative perspective shifted. The protagonists now seem to be the men sheltering in their boats to ride out the oncoming wave, rather than the wave which is about to sweep them out of the frame.

What makes art so fascinating and such a pure wonder is our ability to rediscover a piece and imbue it with personal meaning, so that even a minor representation of a piece carries within it the memory of the original.

A few years ago, I bought a small softcovered notebook from an art gallery gift shop in Rome. On its cover, set against an emerald backdrop, there is a photograph of Bernini’s intricate marble sculpture of Daphne and Apollo.

Y

ou have never really seen a work of art until you have experienced it in person, but until travel returns to normal a virtual visit is a wonderful way to browse through beautiful art without leaving your home.

Wander through virtual art galleries and museums online at artsandculture.google.com.

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p Still life with fruit by Caravaggio c. 1663.

Part of the Denver Art Museum collection.

q The Milkmaid, by Johannes Vermeer, was painted around 1660 and is now part of the Rijksmuseum collection.

CULTURE T&F

Every work of art is a living thing whose existence and meaning are nourished by the people who behold it.

p La Primavera by Botticelli, c. 1480, hangs in the Uffizzi gallery in Florence. q Still life of flowers in a wan-li porcelain vase, resting on a stone ledge with a mouse, observed by a scarlet macaw – painting by Jan Baptist van Forenenburgh, c. 1629

The symbolism of the myth is why Bernini’s interpretation is so appealing to me personally. But there was another reason I picked up that notebook: I had seen the actual sculpture in person, standing so close to it that I could make out the delicate midrib of each bay leaf. And while the marble marvel on my notebook is undeniably beautiful, it isn’t the same as seeing the original work of art.

It is not possible to universally define just what draws us to art like a moth to a lamp. Any piece that touches us, that means something, is a hiatus in hectic times, offering an escape and providing consolation. Discovering why that is, is part of what makes the artwork beautiful. n

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T&F ARCHITECTURE

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ARCHITECTURE T&F

THE

A quiet refuge set amid thousand-yearold olive trees blurs the lines between nature and house

OLIVE HOUSES

Architect mar plus ask Architects in charge: Ask Anker Aistrup, Mar Vicens Fuster, architects and founding partners Photography: Piet-Albert Goethals Project size: 25m2, property 6 hectare

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T&F ARCHITECTURE

We are dedicated to the making of meaningful objects and spaces, both simple and thoughtful. In dialogue with existing conditions, whether natural or built, we see constraints as a starting point for our design, rather than hindrance. We like spaces that are intimate with measured openings to the surroundings, that sculpt the natural light into our spaces, with shades and shadows that change throughout the day, through the use of emotive and sensorial qualities of natural materials.�

- mar plus ask

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ARCHITECTURE T&F

H

igh up in the Tramuntana Mountains of Mallorca with views overlooking the Mediterranean sea, Mar Vicens Fuster and Ask Anker Aistrup have built two small off-grid houses, surrounded in all directions by thousand-year-old olive trees standing on man-made terraces of dry stacked stone. Here, only the wind and the bells of the grazing sheep can be heard.

The incredible scenic mountain area is one of the most beautiful examples of how well wild and human-made nature can intertwine seamlessly. It is a rare example where humans have given more beauty than they have taken away from nature, and the reason the area was brought onto the Unesco World Heritage list.

The houses blend as seamlessly and sensitively as possible into their magical setting. The architects split up the needed footprint into two and repurposed an old stone structure.

This meant that only one new structure was needed. It was built into the existing terraces and is practically invisible as it is half underground, which keeps the house cool in the summer and warmer in winter.

Up on the olive terraces it does not feel like time is counted in minutes, hours or even years - but in millennia. To face something living as old as these olive trees is a humbling experience.

Scattered around the property there are solitary mammoth-sized boulders that rolled down the steep slopes and now lie there as natural monumental sculptures making up a clearing between the trees. It is said that the boulders still wander downwards, but that humans live too short a time to grasp their slow dance, and only the olive trees grow old enough to see it happen.

Despite how uniform the surrounding hillsides may look from the valleys, they are actually a huge patchwork of relatively small plots usually owned by families for generations. Even today many families take great pride in their plot, and invest the hard labour needed to maintain the drystacked stone terraces and the vegetation.

On each plot, you will always find a small stone house that serves to shelter tools.

More importantly, it is a place to make a paella or a stew for lunch, and most likely there’s also a small foldable daybed to take a siesta when the sun is at its harshest. Still to this day this job is regarded as one of the finest occupations on the island. When you see these proud working people on your way up or down the hillside, they greet you with a certain peaceful look and a calm nature.

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T&F ARCHITECTURE

Up on the olive terraces it does not feel like time is counted in minutes, hours or even years - but in millennia.

A

t one end of the new structure a vaulted ceiling dissolves seamlessly into a huge skylight. Below that vaulted ceiling, the house has embraced an existing rock formation.

The shower next to the rock is fed by water from a natural spring behind the house. A specific shade of pink, the complementary shade of the matte and lighter side of an olive leaf, was chosen to cover the walls, floors and ceilings in a uniformity that is reminiscent of man’s first home – the cave.

The original stone structure has been repurposed into an area for cooking and dining - The Purple House, now covered in a specific shade of purple stucco, the complementary colour to the dark side of the olive leaf. When looking out, the complementary colours of the olive trees provide an optical effect – the landscape becomes vivid, more defined and crisp.

The two houses contain only the essential. The pink house includes a bed, a shower and a fireplace. The Purple House is equipped with a bathroom, two gas burners, a sink, a wood-fired oven, table and stools and a fridge powered by solar panels tucked away behind the house. Owned by mar plus ask, The Olive Houses are offered as a silent refuge for architects, artists and writers, all year round. n

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T&F TRENDS

u Meerendal Heritage Block Pinotage. This wine has a very deep, almost opaque purple colour, and spicy red and black fruit aromas supported by strong bramble type characters on initial nose. Prune, plum and ripe dark cherry follow with a backing of rich fruit cake, spice and sweet vanilla. Big, full well-rounded mouth with satin smooth texture that flows across the palate yet distinct but supple tannin undertone. With beautifully integrated oak and layers of flavour, this wine combines great balance with classy elegance – the perfect wine for game fish, all red meats and rich cheeses.

Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd, Gozitano Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road, Xewkija Gozo. T: +356 2156 3231, E: info@abrahams.com.mt

p CATCH YOUR GRAND VIN DE HAUTEVILLE CACHE. The 2018 vintage of aged red wines in Malta’s premium Grand Vin de Hauteville range have gone on sale from Delicata’s online shop, much to the delight of wine aficionados and collectors. The mono-varietal Cabernet Sauvignon and the Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon blend are made from hand-picked grapes from selected family-run vineyards of Malta. The white wines, also available online, are a judiciously oakaged Chardonnay, a pure, unwooded Viognier as well as a sumptuous sweet Moscato dessert wine. Delicata’s Grand Vin de Hauteville range was launched in 1997. The boutique label has since become Malta’s most-awarded wine.

Acquire your cache from www.emmanueldelicata.com/order/

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p Tasty news from Plasmon! Paffs are the snack designed for your baby and suitable for any occasion. The fun shape is perfect for your baby’s hands. Paffs are available in carrot and tomato or pumpkin and carrot. They’re not fried, and are gluten-free, with no added salt, and without dyes and preservatives. Suitable for 12 months+. Distributed by Francis Busuttil & Sons (Marketing) Ltd., tel +356 25497 000, www.fbsmarketing.com

t Meridiana Wine Estate’s Fenici White (Chardonnay/ Vermentino/Viognier), Fenici Red (Merlot/Cabernet/Syrah) and Fenici Rosé (Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah) are fast becoming a popular choice among wine lovers. All three wines are produced using only selected grapes grown in Malta, enjoying DOK classification. Their freshness, fruitiness and elegance makes them a perfect choice with salads, pasta, pizza and seafood.

The Fenici range offers great quality and excellent value for money. The 2019 vintages of the Fenici White and Fenici Rose are now available.

Visit www.meridiana.com.mt for more information on the full range of Meridiana’s wines. Trade Enquiries: S Rausi Trading Ltd, Wine & Spirit Merchants, Stadium Street, Gzira – call +356 79093197 or info@srausi.com, www.srausi.com.mt

p Pascual Milkshakes are available in 3 flavours – vanilla, strawberry and chocolate – and make a perfect daily boost for your children to keep them healthy. A good source of calcium and protein, creamy and also gluten-free, they come in the perfect size and are also long life.

Pascual always gives you the best, so let your children indulge in their favourite flavour.

DESIGN T&F

p Biltmore Sofa by Rivièra Maison.

The Biltmore Sofa 3.5 Seater is an innovative combination of sturdy cow-leather upholstery on the inside and velvet in a similar colour on the outside. The leather cushions have decorative stitching, and the sofa rests on a sleek metal frame. Just in at Joinwell showroom: Biltmore Sofa in charcoal, but also available in various colours on order. Our collection also includes the Biltmore Love Seat, a spacious armchair for two.

u Interested in updating your kitchen with our latest Gold Taps from Bridgepoint? The Gold Kitchen Tap Collection is made from solid brass, and covered in a superior PVD matte gold finish which is super practical for everyday use, easy to keep clean and a finish that is everlasting. It’s a look that is undoubtedly striking, effortlessly chic, ontrend and now easily accessible with all products in stock.

Visit Bridgepointmalta.com to buy online.

p Colour story by Ceramica Cielo! Ceramica Cielo presents Acque di Cielo, the exclusive palette of glossy colours inspired by nature, once again renewing the concept of colour applied to ceramic. Acque di Cielo, like every other project by Ceramica Cielo, is the ideal solution to guarantee a distinctive identity for the bathroom, offering creativity and design without limits. Available in six variants: Oltremare, Smeraldo, Alga, Corallo, Ninfea and Anemone. For more information visit Satariano Showroom, Valley Road, Birkirkara. Tel 2149 2149.

p Dekton by Cosentino is a sophisticated blend of the raw materials used to produce the very latest in glass and porcelain as well as the highest quality quartz work surfaces. Dekton is high in UV resistance and highly scratch resistant. It is also resistant to stains, heat, fire, abrasion and ice. Thanks to Dekton’s size and lightness (size up to 320 x 144 cm) the possibilities for new designs in kitchens, bathrooms, façades, walls or high-traffic flooring are endless.

Halmann Vella is the exclusive supplier of Dekton in Malta.

p Gamadecor by Porcelanosa - emotions™, the contemporary kitchen range for a modern and technically superior kitchen, designed and created to thrill. Its new and carefully planned range of finishes, its surprising solutions, the finest materials, the use of stateof-the-art production machinery and impeccable design are the hallmarks of the exciting new emotions™ kitchen. Special Offers on Gamadecor Kitchens for any orders placed until the end of October. Visit Satariano showroom, Valley Road, Birkirkara Tel 2149 2149

ISSUE 133 OCTOBER 2020

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T&F NOTEBOOK

POMEGRANATES The pomegranate is one of the first five domesticated edible fruit crops, along with figs, dates, grapes and olives.

Pomegranate trees can live up to 200 years, during which time they will grow up to 5 metres tall, bursting into a cloud of coral red flowers in spring and summer.

A single pomegranate tree can bear fruit as it self-pollinates.

Buddha is often depicted holding three fruit: a citron, a peach, and a pomegranate, symbolising abundant happiness, long life, and many sons.

Pomegranates are one of the world’s oldest fruits. The tree probably originated in Persia and spread, by cultivation, throughout the Mediterranean, central Asia and eastwards to China, where it was known as the “Chinese apple”.

In early Christianity, the pomegranate, with its multiple seeds held together by an allcovering casing, was interpreted as a symbol of unity within the one true church. Influenced by the myth of Persephone’s annual return and the rebirth of nature in spring, the pomegranate also came to be associated with the idea of resurrection.

In ancient Greece, the pomegranate tree was believed to have sprung from the blood of Dionysus, the god of wine.

In Greek mythology, the fruit is associated with Persephone, who was forced to return to the underworld for a third of each year as a result of eating the fruit.

Persephone’s return to earth signalled the beginning of spring, and so the fruit came to symbolise rejuvenation and eternal life.

The name pomegranate is derived from Pomum granatus, or seeded apple. In ancient Rome, the fruit was known as malum punicum, punic apple or apple of Carthage, the city in what is now modern-day Tunisia where the tree was cultivated in Roman times. The name eventually evolved into Punica granatum.

In the Koran, pomegranates grow in the Garden of Paradise, and are referred to as “God’s good creations”.

In Pliny’s Natural History, a classical list of perfume ingredients includes pomegranate rind while the juice was used as an astringent to prepare oil for scent.

Pomegranates are widely cultivated and the trees are naturalised in many parts of the world but more than 90% of the world’s pomegranate trees are concentrated in Europe and Asia.

Pomegranate trees are hardy and can withstand high temperatures and warm wind. They grow best in arid conditions, where there is plenty of light and the summers are long, hot, and dry.

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