Taste & Flair February 2020

ISSUE 126 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

FEBRUARY 2020

Feed your Imagination FOOD · WINE · ART · DESIGN · ARCHITECTURE · INTERIORS

25% off all kitchens

Joinwell Mill Street, Qormi +356 2278 2000 info@joinwell.com.mt www.joinwell.com.mt

Italian, German and local custom made kitchens

T&F EDITORIAL

Welcome W

elcome to our first issue of 2020. During the grey January days, we were busy filling our February issue with warmth and colour. Claire Borg took a trip to Porto and collected some wonderful travel photographs and tempting traditional recipes, both old and new. Mandy Mallia cooked up light and easy meals which can easily fit into a busy day, or, altogether, will fill up a slow morning preparing for Sunday lunch. Michael Diacono and Silvia Buriani prepared traditional cucina Bolognesa, evoking memories of family and home with food that comforts the soul. For dessert, we lined up classic recipes that are perfect to celebrate carnival, or for any time you feel like something sweet. They look good as they taste with only half the effort you might expect, making them doubly sweet. On the art front, Seb Tanti Burlo’ talked to Ann Dingli about Other Places, his upcoming exhibition of new paintings, while Francesca Balzan curated Celia Borg Cardona’s retrospective which looks back at her oeuvre of familiar sights seen from an unusual point of view. AP Valletta told us about a recently restored 18th century palazzo brought back to life as a contemporary home, Jonathan Bonnici walked us through the total refit of a contemporary flat, and Megan Mallia spotlights Kintsukuroi, the centuries-old Japanese tradition that captures the idea of beauty in imperfection. We’ll be back in April with another colourful issue of Taste&Flair.

Corinne

FEBRUARY 2020

Roast squash salad with Roquefort and walnuts, by Mandy Mallia.

Photo by Megan Mallia. See feature starting on page 10.

ISSUE 126 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

Feed your Imagination FOOD · WINE · ART · DESIGN · ARCHITECTURE · INTERIORS

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It

All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the prior agreement of the publisher.

Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*.

The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

“…nature brings you back to a place of calm.” – Seb Tanti Burlo’ Photo: Magnus Manske

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T&F CONTENTS

CONTENTS FOOD & DRINK

10

Lunch hour Mandy Mallia’s light and easy meals

24

Porto Claire Borg visits Portugal

ART, ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN

44

60

A taste of Emilia Romagna

By Michael Diacono and Silvia Buriani

58

Retrospective Celia Borg Cardona

62

Wine stories Andrew Azzopardi unravels the myths

Other places Seb Tanti Burlo’s new exhibition

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84

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102

Crunchy sugared almonds A favourite sweet, revisited

Classic sweets Celebrate carnival, or any day

Seeing beauty in light AP Valletta restores a palazzo

The total refit Jonathan Bonnici’s latest makeover

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Beauty in the broken The art of Kintsukuroi

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

LUNCH HOUR Flavourful food needn’t take long to prepare. These tasty recipes are quick and easy to make from a few fresh ingredients and store cupboard staples.

Food by Mandy Mallia.

Styling and photography: Megan Mallia

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

Artichoke, cheese and bacon tart It’s that time of the year when artichokes are in a undance and at their est. This avoursome tart uses fresh artichokes, but it will work just as well with preserved ones i you are pressed or time.

PREPARATION: 45

minutes, if using fresh artichokes COOKING: 45 minutes SERVES 4-6

YOU WILL NEED:

1 round sheet of ready-rolled shortcrust pastry 3 small fresh artichokes, washed, tough outer bracts and choke removed, remaining bracts trimmed down (or use a 250gr jar of artichokes in oil) 1 small bunch of fresh parsley, washed and finely chopped 2 eggs + 1 extra egg yolk, lightly beaten 1 tablespoon of olive oil a few drops of lemon juice 4 slices back bacon 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped salt and pepper, to taste 100g mature cheddar cheese, coarsely grated 284ml double cream

1. Preheat the oven to 190°C. If you are using

fresh artichokes, cut them in half downwards, place the halves cut-side down, and slice thinly across, removing any remaining part of choke as you go along. Boil the sliced artichokes until tender, adding a squeeze of lemon juice to the water first to prevent them discolouring. (If you are using preserved artichokes, simply drain the oil, and rinse and slice the artichokes.)

2. Lightly grease a 23cm tart dish and line it with the shortcrust pastry. Prick the pastry base lightly with a fork. Bake blind (line the top of the pastry with baking paper and place baking beans / dried butter beans on top) for 15 minutes, removing the paper and beans when ready, and putting them aside.

3. Brush the pastry base with a little bit of the beaten egg, reserving the rest of the egg for the filling. Put the tart dish back into the oven and bake, uncovered, for 5 minutes and remove it from the oven. Lower the heat to 175°C. 4. Fry the bacon in the olive oil until lightly golden. When it is cooked, cut it up roughly.

5. Beat the cream, parsley, eggs and garlic

together, seasoning with salt and pepper.

6. Reserving a few slices of artichoke for the

top, place the rest of the slices randomly on the pastry base together with the bacon, and sprinkle the grated cheddar on top. Pour the egg / cream mixture over the ingredients in the tart dish. Decorate with the remaining slices of artichoke, pushing them down lightly into the mixture to avoid them browning too much. Sprinkle with freshly-ground pepper.

7. Bake the tart for 20-25 minutes or until golden and lightly set. Remove it from the oven and allow it to rest for a few minutes before serving.

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

Roast squash salad with Roquefort and walnuts This light yet tasty dish is easy to make, especially if you roast the squash ahead and assemble the salad just before serving it.

Reserve the squash seeds for toasting. Simply spread them on a baking tray in the oven for a few minutes and serve them salted or tossed with chilli a es.

PREPARATION AND COOKING: 60 SERVES 4-6

1. Preheat the oven to 175°C. Wash the

squash well. Cut it in half lengthwise and remove the seeds from each half.

Place the squash cut-side down, and cut it crosswise into slices around ¼” thick.

minutes

YOU WILL NEED

700g squash, peeled and deseeded (save the seeds for toasting) 150g Roquefort, crumbled a handful of walnuts, roughly chopped extra-virgin olive oil salt and freshly ground pepper 200gr baby spinach, washed a few chilli flakes, to garnish

2. Grease two baking trays and spread out the squash slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil.

Bake in the pre-heated oven for 45 minutes or until tender and slightly golden at the edges.

3. To serve warm, place the washed baby spinach leaves on a large serving dish, arrange the slices of roast squash on top and sprinkle with the crumbled Roquefort and chopped walnuts. Garnish with chilli flakes, drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and serve immediately.

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

YOU WILL NEED:

olive oil • 750g pumpkin or s uash, peeled, deseeded and diced reserve the seeds for toasting leeks cleaned, trimmed, and nely sliced 2 large red onions, diced • large garlic cloves 5 large tomatoes, unpeeled and roughly chopped 1 red chilli, deseeded and nely sliced 00g chickpeas, drained canned are ne 1½ fresh ginger, peeled and nely chopped uice of 1 lemon • teaspoon rough sea salt 1 teaspoon freshly crushed black pepper TOPPING

1 small handful baby spinach leaves 100g crumbly, salty cheese, e g feta chilli akes • toasted chickpeas

1. Preheat the oven to 150°C, line a baking

tray with non-stick paper and spread out around 250g of the chickpeas. Toast in the warmed oven for about 10 minutes, shaking the tray once about half way through. Then turn off the heat and leave the oven closed.

2. Meanwhile, heat a deep, large bottomed pan and add a splash of olive oil. Toss in the diced pumpkin (or squash), leeks, diced onion, two thirds of the ginger, sliced red chilli, and garlic and cook until they start to soften without turning brown. If the vegetables start to brown, turn down the heat.

3. Scoop in the chopped tomatoes and drained chickpeas, stir, and continue to cook for a minute or two until all the vegetables are warmed through. Pour in enough boiled water to just cover all the vegetables and stir in a half a teaspoon of salt, and teaspoonful of crushed black pepper. Bring to the boil, then turn down the heat to a simmer. Cover the pot and let it simmer for 30 minutes.

4. Warm up a frying pan over a low heat, add a splash of olive oil and spread it out.

Toss in the remaining ginger and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in the toasted chickpeas and toss them till they’re coated in the ginger flavoured oil. Remove the pan from the heat and set the chickpeas aside.

5. When the vegetables are properly cooked

through, remove them from the heat and blitz till smooth. Add a little warm water if the soup is too thick. Run the soup through a sieve, if you prefer a silky texture.

6. Stir in the lemon juice, ladle the soup into

large bowls or soup plates and serve topped with baby spinach leaves, ginger chickpeas, chilli flakes and crumbled feta cheese.

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Ginger vegetable soup with toasted chickpeas A warm, spicy soup is just what you want on a cold day. This recipe uses squash but can work just as well with any vegetables you happen to have handy.

SERVES 6,

as a starter

PREPARATION AND COOKING: 60

minutes

LIGHT MEALS T&F

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

Grilled aubergines with lemon yogurt and mint There’s no need to mess around with salting and draining the aubergine before grilling it. Serve this warm with crusty bread, as a starter or as part of a spread.

YOU WILL NEED:

2 medium-sized aubergines 150ml Greek yogurt, at room temperature juice of ½ a medium lemon 1 small handful fresh mint leaves olive oil

SERVES 6 PREPARATION AND COOKING: 30

18

minutes

ISSUE 126 FEBRUARY 2020

1. Place a griddle pan

on medium heat. Wash the aubergines, trim off the stems, cut the aubergines crossways into slices ¼” thick.

2. Brush the slices lightly with olive oil and place them, oil side down, on the heated griddle pan and let them cook for about 6 minutes.

Lightly brush the

uncooked side with olive oil, flip the slices over and grill for a further 6 minutes or until softened. Use a spatula to lift the cooked aubergine onto a warmed plate lined with kitchen paper to drain the excess oil.

3. Whip the lemon juice into the yogurt.

Put a layer of grilled aubergine into a

warmed serving dish, dollop with the lemon yogurt and sprinkle with mint leaves, crushing them lightly first to release their flavour.

Add another layer of grilled aubergine and dollop with yogurt and mint. Serve at once with any remaining yogurt on the side.

T&F LIGHT MEALS

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

Savoury zucchini muffins with cheddar and bacon These mu ns eep well in the ridge, so they could e made a day ahead and warmed up ust e ore serving.

MAKES 12

PREPARATION AND COOKING: 55

muffins minutes

YOU WILL NEED

1 medium-sized zucchini, washed, coarsely grated, juices mostly squeezed out 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 1 egg, lightly beaten 120ml milk 120g butter, melted ¼ teaspoon salt 1½ teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda 230g plain flour 75g mature cheddar, grated 25g grated Parmesan cheese 4 slices of streaky bacon or 8 thin slices pancetta, cooked until crisp, then crumbled

1. Preheat the oven to 175°C. 2. Lightly grease a 12-cup muffin tray.

3. Sift the flour into a bowl, add the baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt and mix well. In a separate bowl, mix the milk, egg, butter, garlic and zucchini until blended.

4. Add the flour to the wet mixture a little at a time, stirring well in between to ensure that it is well incorporated. Next, add the crumbled bacon, the grated Parmesan and the grated cheddar and mix well.

5. Put even amounts of the mixture

into each of the muffin moulds and bake for 30-35 minutes or until golden. (A toothpick inserted into the centre should come out clean).

6. Remove tray from the oven

and allow the muffins to cool slightly before removing them from the tray. Serve warm.

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

Artichoke and orange salad with orange thyme Orange thyme has a distinctive taste reminiscent of orange blossom, which complements this salad beautifully. You can find pots o orange thyme in the larger garden centres.

SERVES 6

as part of a spread PREPARATION AND COOKING: 45 minutes YOU WILL NEED:

3 fresh, medium-sized artichokes 2 small oranges a few sprigs of fresh orange thyme 2 handfuls of baby spinach leaves salt and freshly ground pepper to taste extra-virgin olive oil

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1. Wash the orange thyme and lightly pat

it dry. Thoroughly wash the artichokes, trim the stem leaving part of it intact, and snap off the rough outer bracts.

2. Place the artichokes, top down, in a cooking pot and add enough boiling water to cover them. To stop them turning over and floating upwards, place a heatproof mug among them to keep them firmly packed and top them with a heatproof saucer.

3. Cover the pot and let it simmer till the artichokes are cooked (around 25 minutes). Remove the artichokes from the heat, drain well and set aside until cool enough to handle.

4. Remove the leaves by breaking them off gently and set them aside. Remove the choke and slice the artichoke hearts in half, cutting through the stem.

5. Peel the oranges and remove all

the white pith. Use a serrated knife to slice the oranges crosswise. The slices should be about Ÿ� thick.

6. Toss the artichoke hearts and

orange slices in a bowl with some olive oil and the orange thyme leaves.

7. Serve the salad spread on a bed of baby spinach and garnished with sprigs of orange thyme.

T&F CUISINE

FOOD FROM

PORTO Just three hours but worlds away, Porto is a delicious destination for food lovers.

Cooking and photography by Claire Borg

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CUISINE T&F

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T&F CUISINE

I

f you are a foodie, Porto must be on your to-visit list. Just by pronouncing its name, you will instantly realise it’s the hub of Port wine. An outlet of the Douro river, which flows through an important wine-producing part of the country, is in Porto. Good wine, port and fish are abundant here. From freshly caught sardines glistening on the market stalls, to bacalhau (air-dried salted cod), fantastic wines and delicious conventual confectionery, Porto is a hub for gourmands.

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CUISINE T&F

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T&F CUISINE

Clams à bulhão pato Clams with lemon and garlic

YOU WILL NEED:

1kg clams 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 pinch of fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped ½ lemon, cut into 4 pieces 75 ml white wine fresh pepper

1. On a low heat, gently

warm the minced garlic and olive oil in a pan until it releases its aroma.

2. Add the clams and the wine. Squeeze the lemon quarters to release the juice and add the squeezed lemon to the pan.

3. Add the coriander and black pepper. Stir well, cover the pan and let the clams cook till their shells open.

4. Serve the clams warm with crusty bread to soak up the juices.

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CUISINE T&F

QUEIJADAS Queijadas de Sintra are one of the most traditional signature Portuguese pastries, rooted in the origins of conventual baking.

These queijadas are perhaps one of the most typical and unique desserts in Portuguese pastry-making and are found in all pastry shops in Portugal.

Makes 12-14 DOUGH

100g butter 50ml water 1 egg 300g flour FILLING

350g ricotta or cottage cheese 250g sugar 50g butter 6 egg yolks 50g corn flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon cinnamon

1. Prepare the dough by mixing all

the ingredients together. Knead the dough until it is smooth. Cover it with cling film and let it rest in the fridge for at least an hour or overnight.

2. To make the filling, beat the cheese until light and smooth, add the sugar and mix it in. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well until evenly incorporated.

3. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Roll out the dough, cut it up and use it to line the little aluminium moulds.

Pour in the filling until half way up the moulds. Don’t fill them to the top as the mixture will rise in the oven.

4. Bake the quejidas for 15-20 minutes.

Remove them from the oven and allow them to cool completely.

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Francesinha F

rancesinha was created in 1960s Alentejo by Daniel da Silva, an immigrant from France and Belgium, who wanted to adapt the croque-monsieur to Portuguese cuisine. Da Silva’s creation was not appreciated in Alentejo, but when he moved to Porto, he served the Francesinha where it became very popular and is usually enjoyed with a fino (beer).

Each restaurant has its own version of Francesinha. Some say the secret is in their sauce, others say that their secret is the quality of the ingredients. The truth is Francesinha is delicious and easy to make at home. In Porto it is often served with a fried egg on top, sometimes with chips on the side which are then poured around the sandwich to soak up the delicious beer gravy. A pot of gravy is served on the side for extra top ups.

Makes 1 sandwich FOR THE SAUCE

0ml milk • 1 tablespoon corn our 50ml beer • 0g butter 2 tablespoons tomato paste 0ml ort wine • 1 cube beef stock 1 bay leaf • pepper to taste SANDWICH AND FILLING

2 slices of thick white bread 2 slices mortadella • 2 slices of ham 2 slices of cheese such as emmenthal, and some extra cheese to cover the sandwich 1 or 2 cooked sausages, sliced 1 slice of cooked beef, roasted, fried or grilled, about 1 cm thick

1. Dissolve the corn flour into the milk,

making sure there are no lumps.

2. In a small saucepan, melt the butter, add the tomato paste and bay leaf, then add the port, beef and crumbled beef cube. Mix well, making sure the stock cube is dissolved.

3. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 8 minutes.

4. Turn off the heat, remove the bay leaf and add the milk with corn flour while whisking the mixture constantly.

5. Warm the sausage and beef,

layer the first slice of bread with all the ingredients, then top it with the second slice of bread.

6. Place the sandwich in a baking tray,

cover it with more cheese and bake it at 170°C for about 10 minutes, or until the cheese is well melted and the sandwich is heated all the way through.

7. Serve each sandwich in a soup

place, with plenty of gravy poured over and around it. Enjoy it piping hot served with an egg cooked sunny side up, and with chips.

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Pastel de Nata T

he recipe for pastéis de nata dates back more than three centuries to Belém, a civil parish located west of Lisbon.

The pastries were created by the monks in the Jerónimos Monastery, using up the egg yolks which were left over when they used egg whites to starch their clothes. The monks began selling pastéis de nata when they needed an income to support their monastery. Eventually, the monastery closed in 1834 and the recipe was sold. In 1837, the new owners opened Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém. Today, it is still the most popular place around Lisbon to buy pastéis de nata.

These custard tarts, possibly one of the most famous Portuguese baked pastries, are dangerously delicious. One is not enough, and you will know it once you get a taste of them. There is something addictive about the combination of blistered, caramelised custard and crunchy, golden brown puff pastry. I made these with a rough puff pastry, the same one we use for pastizzi. If you can, make your own rough puff pastry, but buying it ready-made is just as fine. I bough the pastel de nata tins from Porto, but you can use a cupcake tin instead.

Makes 12-14 YOU WILL NEED:

rough puff pastry • 210g sugar 100ml water • 1 piece of lemon est 1 small cinnamon stick • 20g corn our 25g plain our • 250ml milk • egg yolks ground cinnamon, for serving

1. Combine the sugar, water, lemon

zest and cinnamon stick in a pan.

Bring it to a boil and let it simmer for 1½ minutes without stirring. Turn off the heat and let the pan cool.

2. Combine the milk, flour and corn

flour in another pan and whisk them until smooth. Set the pan on the heat and cook the mixture while whisking it constantly. When it thickens, remove the pan from the heat and set it aside.

3. Whisk the sugar and milk together in a bowl and then add the egg yolks. Pour the egg mixture into the cooked flour mixture, whisking it all the while until it is smooth.

4. Preheat the oven to 210°C. Cut the puff pastry into small pieces and use it to line the aluminum tins. Pour in the custard mix and bake the pastries for 2030 minutes, or until they are golden and well cooked. Serve these warm as they are or with a sprinkle of ground cinnamon.

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M

outhwatering food, traditional recipes and interesting twists to local dishes, make Porto an amazing place to visit. Cobblestoned streets with pretty houses decorated with beautiful blue patterned tiles make this place even more special. The bridges, the river, the church of Saint Francis, and São Bento Train Station are a few items on Porto’s must-see list. Only three hours away from Malta, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a fantastic destination for a short break.

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Blackeyed Bean Salad T

his is a surprisingly tasty salad I ate with salted cod croquettes. It is a very good match with ried fish and is also delicious with still warm hard-boiled eggs, or thinly sliced crisp green apple or even with grilled tuna steaks. It can be served warm or cold.

YOU WILL NEED:

3 cups of cooked black-eyed beans 1 small onion 1 small bunch of fresh parsley 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper to taste

1. Soak the dried beans overnight and

then boil them until they’re cooked.

Drain the beans and let them cool.

2. Finely dice the onion and place it in a large bowl. Very finely chop the parsley and add it to the bowl. Add the beans, oil, and vinegar and season to taste.

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T&F CUISINE

Brisas do Lis I

n the typical sweetness of the city of Leiria with the romantic name “Breeze from the River Lis” (“Brisa do Lis”) there are all three main ingredients of Portuguese confectionery art: almonds, sugar, and egg yolks. Previously, this cake was called Brisas de Santa Ana, in memory of the no longer existing monastery of St. Anne, where the recipe originated.

Makes 12-14 YOU WILL NEED:

6 egg yolks 2 whole eggs 100g ground almonds 170g sugar 100ml water 1 small cinnamon stick 2 pieces of lemon zest

1. Set the oven to preheat to

180°C. Line small moulds with butter and a coating of sugar and set them aside.

2. Place the sugar, cinnamon, lemon zest and water in a small saucepan and set it to boil over a gentle heat, without stirring, for 3 minutes.

Put the pan aside to cool, discarding the cinnamon stick and lemon zest.

3. Beat the eggs and yolks together, add the ground almonds and mix them in. Pour in the cooled down sugar syrup in a thin steam while whisking the mixture constantly.

4. Spoon the batter into the lined moulds and place them in a roasting tin. Half fill the tin with hot water, and bake the brisas for about 20-25 minutes, or until they have set. Leave them to cool down completely before removing them from their tins.

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Averna The Authentic Italian Amaro Since 1868, Amaro Averna has represented true Sicilian craft with a story rooted in heritage and tradition. Its recipe transmits the avours and aromas o the land it comes from and has become a staple in every Italian home, passed down from generation to generation.

A

verna is an authentic Italian after-dinner liqueur, known as amaro (bitter) originally from Sicily. Its many ingredients give it a richness, full body and smooth taste with a delicate citrus fragrance. Sicily remains at the heart of this traditional Italian amaro and its authentic Mediterranean plants and herbs lend themselves to its velvety, rounded texture and distinct fruity, bitter taste.

As an authentic after dinner amaro, Averna is the perfect way to finish a meal, and is also an ideal sipping liqueur for moment of relaxation with friends. Traditionally enjoyed straight, Averna can also be enjoyed over ice.

The recipe for Averna was first crafted by the Benedectine monks of Abbazia Di Santo Spirito and gifted in 1868 by the monk Frà Girolamo to Salvatore Averna, a textile merchant, as a token of gratitude for his commitment to the local community. He began producing it in his family farmhouse for guests in Xiboli. By the early 1900s, the recipe and business were passed to Salvatore’s son, Francesco Averna, who spread the word at fairs in Italy and abroad.

Today the recipe for Averna has remained a closely guarded secret through four generations of the family.

The only known ingredients are bitter orange, lemon and pomegranate which give Averna a smooth taste and unmistakable aroma. The heart of the Averna production, the infusion of herbs, is carried out in Caltanissetta in central Sicily. The process begins by combining the specially selected herbs, roots and natural spices. Then all ingredients, such as pomegranates, and the essential oils of bitter oranges and lemons are weighed, ground and lastly, mixed and infused with pure alcohol for an intense aromatic blend. Following a lengthy infusion period, the liquid is mixed with water and sugar until it reaches the right alcohol content and is subsequently filtered and blended with more of the same ingredients.

Averna is best enjoyed by following the Averna ritual, designed to enhance the sensory experience, linking Averna’s unique taste and smell to its strong Sicilian roots. Through infusing Averna with traditional Mediterranean herbs, such as fresh mint and lemon peel, the unique aromas of Averna and Sicily can be brought to life and enjoyed to its fullest.

Averna at its best The experience of tasting Averna can be done in a number of ways to savour the flavours at their best: either straight up or with a few cubes of ice, or even adding herbs like sage or mint with lemon peel to complement the flavour and stimulate the senses. The true ritual of sipping Averna, however, is done in its specially-designed glass, the ‘Womb’, a bespoke glass created to bring out its unique and abundant flavours and fragrances. With its soft lines, it enhances the tasting.

The Womb Ritual Pour some Averna into the Womb glass along with ice cubes, fresh mint and lemon peel. Tilt the glass, grasp it in your hand gently and rotate on the table to infuse the ingredients, bringing the unique aromas of Averna to life. Introduce a small amount in your mouth and savour its rich, full-bodied flavours of citrus, hints of liquorice and traditional spices. n Averna is marketed and distributed by Farsons Beverage Imports Co. Ltd. Trade Enquiries: 2381 4400

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T&F REGIONAL CUISINE

F

or this month I have joined forces with Silvia Buriani who has very kindly shared some of her family’s recipes. Originally from Imola (Bologna), Silvia now calls Malta home, but a piece of her heart is still very much in Emilia Romagna. Silvia, who is an architect, moved here with her husband –who happens to be half Maltese, half Bolognese – and lives in house aptly christened ‘Tortellini’. The following are some dishes that evoke great memories of her Nonna, mother and aunts preparing food that comforts the soul.

Styling and photography: BRIAN GRECH Wine recommendation: ANDREW AZZOPARDI Tableware: CAMILLERIPARISMODE

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Nothing tastes as good as recipes handed down through the generations.

Michael Diacono and Silvia Buriani cook up nostalgia with classic food from Silvia’s home town.

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Brodo di ppo Capon broth SERVES 6-8

COOKING TIME: 75

minutes full bodied Tuscan oaked Chardonnay should have the creaminess to complement the hearty dish and the acidity to lift its flavours.

WINE: A

We used this as a base for the first 3 recipes.

YOU WILL NEED

1 capon, jointed 2 large carrots, peeled and cut into chunks 1 large onion, peeled and roughly chopped 3 sticks celery, roughly chopped litres water • salt peppercorns • 2 fresh ay leaves 1 tablespoon tomato paste

1. Place the capon and vegetables into

a large pot and add the water. Bring to the boil then add salt, pepper, and the bay leaves and tomato paste. Lower the heat, and simmer gently for 1 hour.

2. Leave the liquid to cool slightly

before straining it through a sieve.

Reserve the capon to make fritters and set the liquid aside to chill.

3. When the broth is cold, remove any fat that has set on the surface. (This is good to use when roasting potatoes) 4. Reheat the broth and adjust seasoning.

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T t lini in Brodo O

ne of Bologna’s most famous exports, there is nothing like home-made tortellini. Silvia remembers the whole family gathering round a table to help shape these exquisite little wonders.

SERVES

4

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: A

few hours a light red or white wine can work with this hearty soup. I suggest a good quality, dry Lambrusco from Emilglia-Romagna or a Soave Classico, if you prefer having a white wine WINE: Both

PASTA AL UOVO

eggs • 00g our • a pinch of salt STUFFING

50g butter • 200g pork loin, cubed glass dry white wine 200g prosciutto crudo 100g high grade mortadella 2 egg yolks • 100g grated armesan grated nutmeg • salt and pepper TO SERVE

1 litre chicken broth

1. Prepare the pasta dough in the usual manner, then wrap

it in plastic and leave it to rest for 1 hour in the fridge.

2. Melt the butter and fry the pork for a few

minutes until it colours on all sides. Douse with the white wine and let it evaporate. Cook the mixture for 10 minutes and leave it to cool.

3. Place the cooked meat mixture into a food processor and process it till finely chopped but do not allow to form a paste. Blend in the prosciutto and mortadella as well.

4. In a large bowl mix the pork and other meats together, then add the egg yolks, grated cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Mix till well amalgamated.

5. Open the pastry using a pasta machine till it’s

fine and cut it into 2cm squares. Put a little filling on each pasta square, then fold it over to form a triangle. Fold each triangle around your middle finger to join the ends and press firmly to seal.

6. Repeat with the rest of the pasta squares, placing the finishing tortellini on a well-floured tray until needed.

7. Bring the chicken broth to a boil and add the

tortellini. Cook gently for a few minutes till the tortellini rise to the surface. Serve at once.

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T&F REGIONAL CUISINE

Pаs@ li di Zia Lina

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REGIONAL CUISINE T&F

T

his is a kind of pasta in brodo made using a potato ricer to create the long shapes. It’s well worth sourcing a potato ricer just to make this dish.

Pressing the dough through a colander with large holes might do the trick as well.

SERVES

4 to 6

PREPARATION, RESTING AND

140 minutes WINE: This is the perfect opportunity to pair a nutty Crozes-Hermitages Blanc.

COOKING TIME:

YOU WILL NEED

eggs • 0g butter handfuls fresh white breadcrumbs 2 handfuls grated armesan 1 handful our • salt a good grating of nutmeg

1. Mix all the ingredients together

in a large bowl then knead gently to bring together into a dough.

2. Wrap the dough in plastic and leave

it to rest in the fridge for 2 hours.

3. Bring the ready capon broth to a boil in a large pot. Place some of the dough into the potato ricer and press down over the broth letting the spaghetti shapes fall down freely.

4. Cook for just 2 to 4 minutes till the passatelli rise to the surface. Serve at once.

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T&F REGIONAL CUISINE

Zuppa Imp i e A grand name for a simple but delicious heart-warming soup.

SERVES 4

45 minutes A full bodied Californian oaked Chardonnay will complement the buttery richness of the soup.

YOU WILL NEED

5 eggs • 100g our, sifted • 150g grated armesan 50g soft butter • grated nutmeg • salt • teaspoon instant yeast TO SERVE

1 litre chicken broth

1. Preheat oven to 180°C 2. Prepare a soft dough using all the ingredients. Knead the dough gently then roll it out to ½ cm thickness.

3. Place the dough onto a baking tray lined with non-stick paper and bake for about 10 to 14 minutes until golden brown.

4. Bring the chicken stock to a boil. Cut the baked dough into 1cm cubes and add some to the soup.

Cook till they rise to surface. Serve at once.

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T&F REGIONAL CUISINE

LĐ°ag V di Ra B og T

his is the classic sauce from Bologna. The secret of a good ragu’ is long, slow cooking.

SERVES 4

1. Prepare the pasta as in the tagliatelle

recipe but cut it into wide strips. Par boil the pasta in salted water for a few seconds, then refresh it in cold water and keep it aside till needed.

COOKING AND PREPARATION TIME: 180

minutes A ripe and juicy Barbera D’Alba or a richer style Italian rosÊ WINE:

YOU WILL NEED

Green pasta, as in the tagliatelle recipe 50g butter 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 carrot, peeled and diced 1 onion, peeled and diced 1 stick celery, diced 100g pancetta, cut into small cubes 100g prosciutto crudo, finely chopped 100g minced beef 100g minced pork 1 glass dry white wine ½ glass passata di pomodoro 1 litre bechamel sauce 150g grated Parmesan salt and pepper

2. Melt the butter in the extra-virgin olive oil. Add the carrot, onion and celery and stir fry for 10 minutes on low heat. Add the pancetta and cook for a further 10 minutes. Add the prosciutto, mix well and cook for 2 minutes before adding the minced beef and pork. Stir well and cook for 30 minutes, uncovered.

3. Add the wine, stir and leave to evaporate. Season then add the tomato. Mix well, cover, and simmer on very low heat for 2 hours. Check and stir the mixture every so often.

4. Butter a small oven dish. Lay a sheet of pasta in the dish, then some white sauce and then some ragu’. Sprinkle with Parmesan. Continue to layer the pasta, bÊchamel sauce, ragu’ and Parmesan, finishing off the top with bechamel sauce and Parmesan.

5. Bake in a preheated oven at

200°C for 20 to 30 minutes till a golden crust forms on top.

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T&F REGIONAL CUISINE

T t loni di Ric ta di Nonna Dina, con B ro e S via A

happy blend of ricotta, mortadella and Parmesan do not need any heavy sauces to accompany them.

Melted butter and fresh sage do the trick very well.

SERVES 6 PREPARATION, RESTING AND COOKING TIME: 150

minutes aged, white Châteauneuf-duPape Blanc should work wonderfully with the ricotta and butter or you can opt for a floral Fiano d’Avellino which would complement the sage flavours.

WINE: An

YOU WILL NEED

Pasta al uovo – see tortellini recipe FILLING

450g Maltese dense ricotta cheese 300g soft Italian ricotta cheese 100g high grade Mortadella, very finely chopped 1 handful grated Parmesan cheese 1 tablespoon chopped parsley grated nutmeg salt and pepper egg wash to seal

1. Mix all the filling ingredients together.

2. Roll out the pastry using a pasta

machine and cut it into 8cm squares.

Put a spoonful of filling onto each pasta square. Brush the pasta edges lightly with beaten egg and seal to form triangle shapes. Place the filled pasta on a well-floured tray.

3. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil then gently lower the tortelloni into the water. Cook for a few minutes till they float. This should take about 4 minutes.

4. Serve in melted butter infused with a few sage leaves and a sprinkling of grated Parmesan.

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Cliff Zammit Stevens Iago Roberto Jachini Virgili | Desdemona Valentina Mastrangelo Rodrigo Nico Darmanin | Emilia Francesca Sartorato | Elmiro Albert Buttigieg Lucio/Gondolier Alan Sciberras | Doge Stanley Joe Portelli Otello

KorMalta - Malta National Choir Malta Philharmonic Orchestra Marco Mencoboni Director Vivien Hewitt

Conductor

www.teatrumanoel.mt

The opera will be sung in Italian with English and Maltese surtitles

REGIONAL CUISINE T&F

Ta i@ le Sugo di Pr ciutto

T

he predominant pasta shape of Emilia Romagna is tagliatelle, the pasta with which ragu’ al Bolognese should always be served. Serving spaghetti with ragu’ to a Bolognese person is tantamount to sacrilege. The pasta we used in this recipe is paglia e fieno, a mix of normal and spinach-based tagliatelle.

SERVES 4 PREPARATION, RESTING AND COOKING TIME: 120

minutes If you have access to a good quality Sangiovese di Romagna you’re in for a treat. Otherwise 100% Sangiovese varietal such as a Chianti Classico Riserva would work extremely well.

GREEN PASTA

250g our • 2 eggs • salt 0g cooked and very well drained spinach WHITE PASTA

se the same recipe as for tortellini SAUCE

4. Using a pasta machine, roll out the dough then cut using the tagliatelle attachment or cut it by hand with a sharp knife. Roll the pasta into small nests and keep them on a floured tray.

Cut the plain pasta in the same manner.

5. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil.

50g butter • 50g grated armesan tablespoons extra irgin olive oil 1 onion, peeled and nely chopped 200g prosciuto crudo, cut into strips tablespoons tomato polpa salt and pepper

6. Melt the butter together with the extra-virgin olive oil. Add the onion and stir fry for a few minutes till it starts to brown. Then, add the prosciutto and cook for 2 minutes, mixing all the time.

1. Make sure that the spinach is

7. Next, add the tomato polpa. Season

WINE:

drained very well and dry, then blitz in a food processor.

2. Sift flour and salt onto a

work surface. Make a well in the centre and add the lightly beaten eggs and spinach. Work inwards to start bringing it all together, then knead lightly.

3. Cover the dough in plastic wrap and leave it to rest for 1 hour.

and simmer for a further 5 minutes.

The sauce will be quite dry at this point.

8. Boil the tagliatelle for a few minutes.

Fresh pasta cooks very quickly. Using pasta tongs, transfer the tagliatelle from the pasta pot straight into the sauce. Stir and coat well. Add the Parmesan and mix in. Use a bit of the pasta cooking water to loosen the mixture, if needed. Serve at once with freshly grated Parmesan.

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Pieter Claesz - Still life with a Römer and silver bowl

T&F DRINK

WINE MYTHS,

DEBUNKED hampagne isn’t est served in utes, iesling wine isn’t always sweet, and some red wines can e served with fish. ndrew opardi overturns popular wine myths.

I

was invited to one of those awkward dinners over the festive period where I had absolutely no idea what to expect. Will they be serving leftovers from the day before or would they have been preparing for days in advance? Would I be seated next to one of those dull, newly-turned-vegan, obnoxious people who couldn’t hold A conversation without mentioning the fact that they watched ‘The Game-Changers’? But I digress.

My worry stemmed from what bottle of wine I should take with me. I was less concerned about the budget than about what the host would appreciate. Should I play safe with a decent looking Bordeaux or Chablis, or would the host be delighted with a top-notch Cabernet Sauvignon from Margaret River, albeit with a screw cap closure?

I opted for the riskier screw cap option. It turned out to be a good choice. The dinner table conversation quickly turned to whether the wine-closure has anything do with the quality of the wine. More than half the table admitted to believing screw cap meant inferior quality. So I decided to start 2020 by debunking a few wine myths, starting with screw caps

u Screw caps do not denote low-quality wine I do somewhat understand the reasoning behind this particular myth. Maybe it is the romanticism of the cork, or the sensual courting of a sommelier opening an old bottle of wine using careful manoeuvres to keep the cork intact that we absolutely love. Yes, I am a fan of the cork and it’s true that opening a screw cap lacks a certain je ne sais quoi, but, no, I will not say that the screw cap equals low-quality wine.

Screw caps have become mainstream in New World wine-producing regions such as Australia and New Zealand. Some of their very best wine producers are big fans of this type of closure. The screw cap does a better job at locking out oxygen, is cheaper to produce, and reduces the possibility of typical closure-related faults such as cork taint or oxidisation. In short, with screw caps the risks are fewer and you can get better wine for your money.

There is, however, a school of thought that promotes the use of corks because

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they allow tiny bits of oxygen into the bottle allowing the wine to evolve at an expected rate, but that’s another argument altogether. u All Champagne should be kept to age Non-vintage Champagne is usually made to be drunk immediately. I normally suggest drinking this type of Champagne within 3 to 4 years of purchase. This does not mean that those bottles of Moët et Chandon gathering dust at the back of your kitchen cupboard should be thrown away, but, for crying out loud, open them this weekend, whatever the occasion.

Vintage Champagne, on the other hand, will benefit from aging for several years, sometimes even up to 20 years. You can easily tell vintage Champagne from non-vintage Champagne because the date of disgorgement will be indicated on the bottle. If no date is indicated, It’s the perfect excuse to open the bottle for your next celebration, or just because it’s the weekend.

u Sparkling wine should be served in flutes “Would you mind pouring the Champagne into a wine glass please?” is the cue for my wife to roll her eyes and call me a ‘winesnob’. I’m sorry darling, I will stand by my opinion that Champagne just tastes better that way.

Even though it is customary to drink sparkling wines from a flute, Champagne was originally drunk from a coupe – said to have been modelled on Marie-Antoinette’s breasts – to allow the bubbles to escape quickly and thus soften the wine. By the mid 1950s to the 1970s drinking habits changed, and the flute came to fruition to release the bubbles slower and avoid them fizzling out too quickly. Some historians say that the flute was actually invented out of necessity to allow aristocrats to enjoy their Champagne without spilling it over each other during stand-up functions at the theatre.

Unfortunately, both the flute and coupe don’t do much for the actual wine’s aromas. The aromas in a coupe, just like the bubbles, are immediately lost, whereas in a flute the aromas are sadly muted. Many professional sommeliers use a specific Champagne glass that is tulip-shaped with a smaller opening at the top, but when these specific glasses are not available any good wine glass will suffice.

Of course, I still accept the beautiful cut-crystal Champagne flutes my motherin-law so passionately offers me on New Year’s Day, and I do love the festive feel of a flute, but I usually “accidently” pour the Champagne into a wine glass when nobody is looking.

DRINK T&F

u Sulphites cause hangovers I’m already hyperventilating at the thought of anyone saying this. I will be as clear as I possibly can - all wine has sulphites (or sulfites). They are a byproduct of fermentation, and therefore an integral part of the whole process.

Sulphites are what protect and preserve the wine, allowing it to age while remaining drinkable. Without sulphites, you’d be drinking some pretty funky and awful stuff, or throwing it away. Though most winemakers add tiny amounts of sulphites to their wine, it adds up to no more sulphites than you’d find in a can of tuna, or in french fries, soda and dried fruit.

That being said, one percent of the global population are sulphite-sensitive, as are 5% of asthma sufferers. If you happen to be one of those unlucky ones, I would suggest trying out a few organic wines which do not have any added sulphites, although they would still have small amounts of sulphites, and test the outcome, but I’m sceptical. A few

people do have actual sulphite allergies, but they are mostly asthmatics. If you’re asthmatic and allergic to sulphites, you’d almost certainly know about it by now.

Don’t blame sulphites for any headaches or hangovers. Sulphite reactions include a bad asthma attack or hives, but not headaches or hangovers.

Ta n n i n s , h o we ve r, c a n c a u s e headaches. Some people avoid red wine for this reason, but have no issues with white wine. If you tend to get a headache after drinking red wine, opt for the lighter reds or avoiding them completely and drink white wine instead. u Wine always gets better with age Strangely enough, this misconception persists. Most wines do not improve with age, but since wine is such a complex subject wine ageing is not as straightforward as you might think. Different wines age differently. Some age gracefully for 10-15 years, others improve for the first 2-3 years and then plateau. Then there are wines that simply do not improve with age and are best drunk immediately.

Wine is made up of complex phenolics, acids, flavours and aromas which break down and reconnect over time, creating new structure, aromas and flavours. If a strong structure is there, primary fruit flavour will fade into secondary and tertiary flavours. If the right components are present, the wine will evolve into more complex flavours as it ages. However, it is only when there is the perfect balance of alcohol, sugars, proteins and structure that wine will actually improve with age. This is why only a small quantity of perfectly made and often premium wines can improve or last longer in the bottle.

The fact that premium wines increase in value over the years creates the perception that all wine improves with age, when in fact the wines that do increase in value are often super-premium wines with fantastic structure and made for ageing. Over time, these wines become scarcer and harder to

Giorgio Lucchesi - A basket of grapes by an amphor on a wooden table.

Willem Claesz. Heda - Breakfast with a crab Hermitage Museum

u Only white wine pairs with fish and red wine pairs with meat There is definitely some truth in this myth, but it is the over simplification of the reasoning behind it that is mistaken.

The strategies behind wine pairing include matching or contrasting flavours, weights and textures, and to balance the intensity of both the dish and the wine.

Since white wine is generally lighter and fresher, it is often the better choice with light fish dishes, just as the texture and body of a Californian Cabernet are better suited to a flame-grilled rib-eye steak. However, lighter red wine grapes such as Pinot Noirs and Gamays can be better suited to rich fish dishes and darker meats such as salmon and tuna, and, rather than most red wines, I often prefer pairing a creamed chicken dish with a bold chardonnay.

This old adage of white with fish and red with meat has been replaced with the contemporary mantra of “drink what you like, eat what you like, and pair them however you like”.

My personal take on all this is probably somewhere in the middle. I believe that the overly simplistic saying is useful to some extent owing to ease of remembering and an often accurate result. However, the beauty and joy of wine is all about experimenting with different tastes, flavours and textures through different pairings. Had I not adopted this mantra, I’d have missed out on some fabulous surprises along the years.

source, making them more desirable and pushing prices up further. u Riesling is a sweet wine When I first got into the world of wine, one of the first mistakes I made was to assume Riesling is always sweet. At the time I was corrected by my eventual lecturer who said, “Rieslings are often fruity, but not necessarily sweet.”

Traditionally, Rieslings are on the sweeter end of the scale. However, most Riesling producers are now making a variety of top notch dry, lean and mineral Rieslings which are fantastic food-friendly wines. Unfortunately, back in the 1980s and 1990s, the only available Riesling was none other than that sickly, sweet juice with too little acidity that was poured from an elongated blue bottle. The thought still sends shivers down my spine. It wasn’t the fact that the wine was sweet that made it bad, but simply that the wine itself was… well, horrible.

Thankfully, Riesling wine has come a long way and Germany, originally notorious for the sweeter wines, now produces a wide array of Rieslings with varying degrees of sweetness, from lean and bone dry to rich and honeyed styles. Riesling is one of those grapes, like Pinot Gris or Gewürztraminer, that is equally enjoyable in a dry or sweet style. Similarly, France, particularly Alsace, has been producing some beautiful, lean and refreshing Rieslings, as well as late harvest and botrytized sweet wines that pair wonderfully with salty cheeses and fruit-based desserts.

New World areas including Australia a n d N e w Z e a l a n d h av e b e c o m e synonymous with single varietals such as Riesling, boasting floral, fruity and aromatic wine which are wonderful when paired with food. I would probably add that a dry, mineral and fruit-forward Riesling is often my go-to white wine when I expect to have a variety of flavours thrown at my palate. The wine is refreshing, cool and flexible but not necessarily sweet. n

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T&F ART

Celia Borg Cardona A retrospective

C

elia’s latest exhibition is a retrospective entitled, simply “Celia Borg Cardona - A retrospective exhibition”. Curated by Francesca Balzan, it showcases a wide range of Celia’s art in 29 canvases painted over the decades that she has been practising as an artist. The 27th Bank of Valletta Retrospective Art Exhibition, curated by Francesca Balzan, launched earlier this month in the prestigious Gran Salon of the Museum of Archaeology in Valletta, where it will remain open to visitors until 4th March 2020.

Celia Borg Cardona’s art is usually concerned with the unusual viewpoint: groups of people seen from above, casually strolling in the streets or engaged in group activities such as feast processions. When looking at her paintings, you will find yourself taking the proverbial bird’s eye view, peering down from a window ledge at neighbourhood residents sitting outside on their chairs and the village band marching past. More recently, Celia has turned her eye to Maltese streetscapes and buildings, including iconic ones such as Renzo Piano’s parliament building in Valletta while it was still under construction.

Typically, Celia works in large format and her art is very much dependent on the actual process. She revels in the use of oil and acrylic paint and likes to leave as much evidence of her marks on the surface of the canvas as possible.

Her paintings depict their own production as much as their subject matter itself. In this way Celia hopes to connect the viewer with the production process, drawing you inside her artistic world in more ways than one.

Off the Pontoon - Acrylic on canvas, 2018

Celia Borg Cardona: A retrospective exhibition runs from the 1st February 2020 until the 4th March 2020, National Museum of Archaeology, Auberge de Provence,, Republic Street, Valletta. Open Monday - Sunday from 9am till 5pm (last entries at 4.30pm).

The Red Band - Acrylic on canvas, 2016

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ART T&F

exhibition

A pharmacy graduate, Celia Borg Cardona abandoned her profession for her passion. She studied at the Malta School of Art and at Anton Calleja’s studio for several years but resisted exhibiting her work until 2004. Since then, she has never looked back – until now, that is.

Painting photography: harles aul

Watching you Watching - Oil on canvas, 2011

opardi • Celia’s studio portrait: Ben Borg Cardona

Cardona Cassar Shipyard - Oil on canvas, 2005 Artist’s collection

Tugs 1 - Acrylic on paper, 2002

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T&F ART

SEEKING RESPITE IN

OTHER PLACES Ann Dingli meets artist and cartoonist Sebastian Tanti Burlò at home in Siggiewi.

His exhibition, “Other Places”, opens in Valletta on 14th March 2020.

I

We leaf delicately through a series t’s late July and the exchange of thirteen alternative earthly realities – of two sweating beer bottles sketches executed in watercolour paint from my hands to a reliably on old and yellowed, uniformly-sized, belligerent friend’s promises government-issued typewriter paper. an afternoon of competent The paper is thin, nearing translucency, complaining. We’re in Siggiewi, eliciting proclamations of awe from us at the home of artist Sebastian both in the face of its material integrity.

Tanti Burlò – a man I’ve known for beyond Scene after scene reveals quirky scenarios a decade and whose grievances with the of flora, fauna and architecture. The world I’ve often come to align with. We application is delicate, clean, measured. sit in his garden, rustically overgrown and The style is unmistakably Burlò’s, yet born impertinently encasing us within its own from a new place of exploration. I ask him micro-climate. His day has been spent to tell me more about the stories behind keeping out of the way of other people, each scene. “Only if you agree to curate mine has been driving from one errand Other Places their exhibition”. I agree, and six months to another. We both capitulate to the (Because, let’s face it, we’ve later, sitting across from each other in my act of unwinding – an increasingly rare really messed up this one.) flat in London, he lets me in. commodity in the everyday life of any “This [series] is a reaction to the way Maltese resident.

An exhibition of works by artist and we’ve treated nature,” he says. “Nature It’s been a busy year for Burlò, as his political cartoonist Sebastian Tanti has always been my respite from politics. audience knows him, his contribution Burlò. A series of watercolour and ink It’s something I picked up on being to Malta’s political narrative via regular drawings on old government issued surrounded by gardens, where no matter cartoons for the Times of Malta has typewriter paper, recounting a fairytale how bad anything was, no matter the remained consistent. Heavy is the head relationship between Nature and man. situation, you could always go out and all that wears the crown of national criticism, of a sudden your heart is singing. You’re but he has been groomed for this role Opening intermittently from the 14th of happy, because nature brings you back to since childhood. His was an upbringing of March 2020, at 48, Melita Street, Valletta. a place of calm.” undeferential critical thinking, growing up His thirteen scenes channel the nuance amid the influence of his father – political cartoonist Maurice Tanti Burlò, or Nalizpelra, as he was known within those places of calm, exploring the visual permeations of a marriage between nature, man and urban life. “I wanted to create by his audience.

Complaining in this household is not done for sport – it’s a a space where I could play around with the ideas of man’s place livelihood. Nonetheless, it takes an expected toll, and over the in nature,” he says. “[I’ve tried to] create little short stories that years my exchanges with Burlò have taken the form of digital give the opportunity for us to think: what would places be like if snippets of routine artistic reprieves. For a while, he drip-fed somebody designed their home, or a tower, or a dome, in relation me images over WhatsApp of a series of Maltese flowers. Before to their natural surroundings?”

As we talk more, I begin to understand the motivation behind that, it was details of jaunty Mediterranean waves, or portraits of friends in black ink. In between them all, essays and short stories what Burlò has labelled “a fairytale relationship between Nature and man”. The intention veers only slightly from the angry, connected with life in Malta.

We sit and discuss the latter, flip-flopping between politics, uncompromising visual rhetoric he publishes on a weekly basis.

These paintings emerge from the same place of simmering rage, the built environment and gossip. As if like therapeutic clockwork, he mentions a recent series of non-political paintings he’s been from that familiar exercise in unfiltered criticism, from the friend working on, promising them to be nothing like anything he’s who indulges my own complaints about how we have exploited shown before. Before long we ascend into his stylishly cluttered the world around us. The intention is to invite anyone watching studio, where among copious piles of manic politically-charged to consider the possibility of different realities, of other places, and fully understand what we stand to lose. sketches, he leads me to Other Places.

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ART T&F

Other Places 1

Other Places 7

Other Places 11

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T&F SWEETS

CRUNCHY CARAMELISED ALMONDS A

round carnival time, as children, we would always look forward to our father coming home with a bag of perlini. This recipe is a twist on the traditional perlini – and besides the crisp almonds being delicious, it is easy to follow.

Serve crunchy caramelised almonds as a sweet snack or after a meal with strong black co ee. They eep well or around 2 weeks in an airtight container, assuming that you don’t find them as addictive as my family does, in which case they’ll be gone in a day.

Recipe: Mandy Mallia • Photo: Megan Mallia

5 minutes minutes, plus 30 minutes’ baking time PREPARATION TIME:

COOKING TIME: 15

MAKES SEVERAL SERVINGS

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YOU WILL NEED

300gr raw almonds, skin left on 120ml water 215gr granulated sugar ¼ teaspoon food colouring 1 pinch salt (optional)

1. Set a large frying pan on the heat.

Pour in the water, add the sugar and use a wooden spoon to stir it in until it is completely dissolved.

2. Add 2-3 drops of food colouring and stir until well combined. Add a pinch of salt, if using, and stir again.

3. Now, add the almonds, stir them into the mixture until they are well coated, and bring the sugared water to the boil. Let the pan boil steadily until all the excess water evaporates and the sugar starts to crystalise.

4. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 150°C and line a baking tray with non-stick paper.

5. Use a long-handled fork to stir the

nuts into the mixture as it continues to boil and crystalise, ensuring that they are well and evenly coated.

6. Pour the nut mixture onto the

lined baking tray and use the fork to spread them out so that they don’t stick together.

7. Pop the baking tray in the preheated oven and bake for 25-30 minutes, stirring them every 10 minutes so that they bake evenly.

8. Lift the filled baking parchment out of

the baking tray and place it on a wire rack till the almonds cool down completely.

INTENSELY DARK MAKE TIME FOR NERO

PROMOTION T&F

The health benefits of

dark chocolate with Perugina T

hey say that good things come in small packages, and nothing proves it more than dark chocolate. Cacao, dark chocolate’s main ingredient, is a superfood with a seemingly never-ending list of health benefits. To start with, it is higher in antioxidants than most other fruits, making it a powerful weapon against free radicals. This means that eating quality dark chocolate like Perugina Nero helps fight ageing and diseases such as cancer. It is also a great source of iron and zinc, which are essential in maintaining a healthy immune system. And if that were not enough, dark chocolate is a natural prebiotic which feeds the good bacteria in our digestive system that keeps us healthy. Prebiotics also support the immune system and brain health, and they also help with weight management.

This miracle food also improves blood circulation which, in turn, reduces the risk of heart disease and strokes, and protects the skin from sun damage while also hydrating it and increasing its density. The increase in blood flow also has a positive impact on brain function. Studies have shown that cacao has positive effects on cognition, mood and memory. What’s more, it contains phenylethylamine (also known as the ‘love drug’), which makes us feel the same rush that love and attraction bring. And if you fear that the caffeine in your Perugina Nero will interfere with your sleep, rest easy - literally. The magnesium in dark chocolate contributes to better sleep and helps fight stress. In short, a little square of Perugina Nero a day can help keep the doctor away. n

YOU WILL NEED

0g plain our • 100g butter • eggs 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder 1 teaspoon baking powder 150g erugina ero 70 teaspoon salt • 200g sugar 1 sachet of vanilla powder around 10g 50g sour cream or natural yoghurt 100g chopped walnuts optional 50g chopped erugina ero 70 or chocolate chips optional

1. Preheat the oven to 160°C. While

Chocolate Brownies with Perugina Nero 70% Cacao

Decadently indulgent brownies with a crispy top and a dense, fudgy centre

it’s heating, prepare a baking tin: lightly grease the inside with butter, then line it with baking paper.

2. In a bowl, mix together the flour,

cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt.

3. Melt the chocolate using a bainmarie. When it’s creamy, add the butter, mix well and set aside

4. In a larger bowl, place the eggs, sugar and vanilla and mix until thick and fluffy. Add the chocolate mixture and beat until combined.

5. Add the flour mixture

and mix well.

6. Finally add the sour cream

or yoghurt and mix again.

7. You can also add 100g chopped walnuts and 50g chopped chocolate or chocolate chips (optional).

8. Pour the mixture into the baking

tray and bake for 40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out dry.

9. Allow to cool slightly, then

cut into squares and serve.

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hsbc.com.mt

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SWEETS T&F

EASY ASPIE esserts that loo as good as they taste needn’t e ussy or fiddly to make. These classic Italian recipes are perfect for a carnival celebration, or any time you want something sweet. Photography: Haarala Hamilton.

These recipes are from The Silver Spoon Classic, published by Phaidon *ÂŁ39.95 (UK retail price).

Photography: Haarala Hamilton.

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T&F SWEETS

Ce ini di Ar ce con Crema Orange cups with cream

Using the fruit itself to serve this dessert creates a dramatic impression on the table. When you scoop the flesh of the oranges out of their skins, make sure that you don’t leave any of the white pith on the flesh as this will make the mixture taste bitter. Be careful not to cut too deeply into the orange skins or the cups will leak when you fill them with the creamy mixture.

You can omit the orange liqueur if you want to make this a non-alcoholic dessert. For a different flavour, add any other sweet liqueur you have available.

SERVES 4

PREPARATION AND COOKING: 85 minutes, excluding cooling and chilling time YOU WILL NEED:

4 oranges 150-250ml milk 3 egg yolks 130g caster sugar 40g plain flour 2 tablespoons orange liqueur

1. Cut a slice off the tops off the oranges and use

a teaspoon to scoop out the flesh and juice into a bowl. Scrape off any white pith. Set the empty orange “cups” aside while you prepare the filling.

2. Set a strainer over a measuring jug. Put the orange flesh and juice into the strainer and press down with the back of a spoon to extract as much juice as possible.

Add enough milk to top up the juice to 500ml.

3. Beat the egg yolks and sugar together in a bowl until they are pale and fluffy. Next, sift the flour into a bowl and fold it into the beaten eggs.

4. Gradually stir in the orange juice and milk mixture, then pour the mixed liquid into a saucepan and set it over a low heat. Cook the mixture, stirring continually with a wooden spoon, for 20-25 minutes or until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.

5. Remove the pan from the heat and let the mixture

cool (about 20 minutes). Stir in the liqueur and divide the mixture between the 4 orange cups.

6. Cover the filled cups with plastic wrap and let them

chill in the fridge for about 3 hours or until they set.

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SWEETS T&F

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SWEETS T&F

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annoli are a traditional Sicilian dessert dating back to the time of Arab rule. The name “cannoli” derives from “canna” (river cane), which was used to shape the dough into tubes. In Sicily, cannoli vary from village to village: some areas use cow’s mil ricotta in the filling in other areas the dough is enriched with cocoa or co ee. This recipe uses traditional sheep’s milk ricotta Romana. You can use a mi ture o di erent candied ruits or a colour ul e ect. your ricotta is too grainy, pass it through a sieve or blitz it in a blender. When ricotta Romana is not available, use the best quality ricotta you can find. you don’t have alvasia wine to hand, substitute any other sweet wine.

To shape the pastry shells, you will need about 20 metal cannoli tubes. You’ll find these in good kitchenware stores.

MAKES 20-22

cannoli

PREPARATION AND COOKING: 90

minutes, excluding resting and chilling time PASTRY SHELLS

150g plain our plus extra for dusting • 1 tablespoon lard • salt 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar • tablespoons alvasia wine 1 egg white, plus extra for brushing • 1 teaspoon caster sugar FILLING

1kg ricotta omana • 00g icing sugar • 0g chocolate, chopped 50g candied pumpkin, diced • 2 tablespoons white rum DECORATION

vanilla avoured icing sugar 5 shelled pistachio nuts, slivered

1. Begin by preparing the filling. Press the ricotta through a

sieve into a bowl, add the icing sugar and beat with a wooden spoon. Add the candied pumpkin, chocolate, and rum. Mix well.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it chill for 12 hours.

2. Meanwhile, make the dough. Sift the flour with a pinch of salt into bowl. Add the lard, vinegar, wine, egg white, and sugar and mix the ingredients into a dough. Shape the dough into a ball, wrap it in clingfilm and let it rest for 30 minutes.

3. Lightly flour a surface. Cut the dough into 2-3 pieces and roll out each piece. Cut the dough into 20-22 squares or use a round pastry cutter with a fluted edge. Put a cannoli tube diagonally across each piece of pastry, wrap the dough around it and seal the pastry together by brushing it with a very small amount of beaten egg white.

C noli

4. Fill a frying pan three-quarters deep with vegetable oil and heat it. Add the cannoli, seam side down, a few rolls at a time, and cook them for a few minutes until golden brown. Turn them once during cooking time to ensure they are cooked all over. Remove the cooked cannoli with a slotted spoon, then drain them on paper towels. Let them stand until they are cool enough to handle and remove the metal tubes.

5. Fill the cannoli with the ricotta filling just before

serving, decorating the ends with pistachio slivers and dusting the pastry with icing sugar.

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T&F SWEETS

Chiac iere Sweet fritters

C

hiacchiere are among the most popular Italian carnival desserts. Loved throughout taly, these crum ly ritters ta e di erent names from north to south, such as bugie (lies) in Piedmont, crostoli in Veneto, or frappe in Lazio. The recipe varies regionally, both in terms of ingredients and shapes. The fritters can be created as strips or bows, but no matter what their shape, the dough made with eggs, our, and utter or oil will always have some liqueur added, ranging from white wine to Marsala, through to grappa.

There are also variations in how they are cooked: in the oven, giving a lighter result, or fried, as in this, their original recipe.

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SWEETS T&F

SERVES

6

PREPARATION AND COOKING:

60 minutes, excluding resting time YOU WILL NEED:

250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 50g caster sugar • 1 egg • 1 egg yolk 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for frying 175ml white wine • icing sugar, for dusting

1. Sift the flour into a bowl and stir in the sugar. Make a well in the centre, add the egg, egg yolk, olive oil, and the wine. Mix well and let the mixture rest for 30 minutes.

2. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough into a thin sheet and use a fluted pastry wheel to cut it into strips around 10cm long and 4cm wide. Tie each strip into a knot without pulling too tightly.

3. Heat enough oil for shallow frying in a pan. Add the fritters

and fry them until they turn golden brown. Use a slotted spoon to remove the fritters from the oil and let them drain on kitchen paper. Dust the fritters with icing sugar before serving.

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T&F SWEETS

SERVES 8 PREPARATION AND COOKING:

Cro ata di Pere e Cioccolato Pear and chocolate pie

75 minutes, excluding chilling time YOU WILL NEED:

225g butter, plus extra for greasing 550g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 25g unsweetened cocoa powder 120g caster sugar 1 egg 3-4 amaretti biscuits, crumbled 800g pears, peeled and diced Icing sugar, for dusting

1. Grease a shallow 23-

cm cake tin with butter and dust with flour. Mix the butter, flour, cocoa powder, sugar, and egg in a bowl to make a smooth dough. Let the dough rest in a cool place.

2. On a lightly floured surface, roll out a little more than half the dough into a disk and line the cake tin with it. Sprinkle the bottom of the dough with the crumbled amaretti and diced pears.

3. Roll out the remaining dough into a disk and place it over the filled pie.

Press the edges of the dough together to seal them. Cover the cake pan with clingfilm and let it chill in the fridge until firm (about an hour).

4. Preheat the oven to 190°C. Remove the clingfilm and bake the pie for 40-45 minutes.

Remove the pie from the oven and let it cool. Transfer it to a serving dish and dust the top with icing sugar before serving.

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PUT A SPARKLE IN YOUR WEEKEND

Rise and brunch every Saturday and Sunday from 11:30 to 15:00 at the Phoenix. Indulge in the flow of bottomless Prosecco, Bellinis and Mimosas while munching on the newly upgraded menu. Spoil

yourselves as you devour our selection of bakeries, fruits and cold cuts, followed by a juicy carvery, and ending with a crĂŞpe from the live CrĂŞpes Station.

Gather family or friends and join us this weekend.

Book your Sparkling Brunch NOW! The Mall, Floriana - FRN1478, Malta Tel: (+356) 21 225 241 dine@phoeniciamalta.com www.phoeniciamalta.com

T&F SWEETS

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SWEETS T&F

Cro ata al Cioccolato e L poni Chocolate and raspberry tart

Delicious, crumbly pastry filled with silky chocolate mousse and decorated with fresh raspberries, makes the perfect combination of ingredients.

SERVES

6

PREPARATION AND COOKING:

50 minutes, excluding chilling time YOU WILL NEED:

125g dark, bittersweet chocolate 2 eggs, lightly beaten 75ml single cream 225g shortcrust pastry, flavoured with vanilla flour, for dusting 125g raspberries 80g icing sugar

1. Line a 25-cm rectangular tart tin

with non-stick baking paper.

2. Break up the chocolate and melt it gently in a double boiler or in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water. Stir the chocolate occasionally as it melts and remove it from the heat when fully melted. Add the eggs and cream and stir gently until well combined.

3. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the shortcrust pasty and use it to line the bottom and sides of the tart tin. Prick the bottom of the pastry with a fork and place the lined tin in the fridge for 30 minutes.

4. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Pour

the chocolate filling onto the pastry shell and bake it in the preheated oven for 25 minutes. Remove the tin from the oven and let it cool thoroughly.

5. Lay the raspberries evenly over

the top of the chocolate mousse, dust with icing sugar, and transfer the tart to a serving plate.

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T&F SWEETS

Ventaglietti al Limone emon pu pastry coo ies

T

he Italian version of the French palmier, these cookies have been popular throughout Italy for many years and can be found in most bakery and pastry shops. The lemon zest gives them a delicate, zingy taste, but you can make them without the lemon or even substitute it with orange and a heaped teaspoon of cinnamon for a di erent ut e ually delicious result.

MAKES 15-20

cookies

PREPARATION AND COOKING: 35

minutes

YOU WILL NEED:

400g puff pastry dough flour, for dusting icing sugar, for dusting 2 unwaxed lemons

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C

and line a baking tray with non-stick paper. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pastry into a 23-cm-wide rectangle, about 3mm thick.

Brush the surface with water to dampen it slightly.

2. Sprinkle the entire pastry surface with sugar and grate the zest of the lemons evenly over it. Starting from the long side of the rectangle, roll the dough inwards until you reach the centre. Repeat with the other side of the dough so that you end up with two “cylinders” meeting in the middle. Cut the double cylinder into slices 1cm thick.

3. Transfer the dough slices onto the lined baking tray, pressing them down lightly along their centre line so that they fan outwards as they cook.

4. Bake for 10 minutes, then turn them over and bake for another 10 minutes until golden brown. Remove the tray from the oven and let the cookies cool down before transferring them to a serving plate.

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Š 2020 McDonald's Corporation.

Live the trend.

Dance the Salsa.

17.02.20 #TeamSalsa

All pictures shown are for illustration purpose only. Actual products may vary.

T&F PROMOTION

Nobilia

quality kitchens made in Germany

Nobilia has been part of people’s homes for generations, with its roots taking us back to 1945, when two brothers, produced sewing cabinets and occasional furniture in Avenwedde, Germany. Following more than 70 years of company history, in between two manufacturing plants and a third one currently under construction, Nobilia’s production volume rose to 3,300 kitchens per day, solidifying its position as the kitchens’ market leader.

The standard Nobilia builds intelligently engineered kitchens with excellent design that caters for every client expectation. For many people, most particularly the Nobilia clients, Nobilia Kitchens reflect their attitude towards life. Nobilia revolves around quality, starting off from the planning phase, followed by the production and processing phase and an outstanding aftersales customer-service relationship.

Nobilia’s goal is to provide each and every customer with exactly the kitchen they aspire for. Nobilia Kitchens are as unique as the people living in them. Every single kitchen is individually planned and produced with precision. Thanks to a high degree of automation, a consistent high level of quality is guaranteed.

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PROMOTION T&F

Nobilia’s competence knows no boundaries and leaves nothing to chance.

Operating in over 90 countries worldwide, Nobilia adjusts its trade structures to accommodate the requirements of the respective country. The company follows a sophisticated control system for all process steps, putting as many as 21 complete fitted kitchens through the paces of a quality audit every day. Aside from quality, Nobilia prioritises environmental protection and energy efficiency. The company holds PEFC certification that demonstrates the brand’s dedication to an environment that is worth living in, and its responsibility in sourcing timber products from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources.

Kitchens with style No matter the style, Nobilia has your dream kitchen. From the handleless style, country house kitchens, to modern fitted kitchens, Nobilia caters for your taste.

Whether wood, lacquer or glass, a modern kitchen from Nobilia convinces with its self-confident design, extravagant elements and high-quality equipment. The combination of different materials ensures that modern kitchens never appear boring, always taking an evolutionary step into the future.

A feel-good effect is brought to you through Nobilia’s Natural Living kitchens. With modern, top class wood finishes, elegant structures and warm nuances, the Natural Living kitchens are aimed at creating cosy and homely atmospheres.

For a sensational and unique effect, aim for Nobilia’s Design Kitchens. A Design kitchen, confidently draws everyone’s attention through strong colours, bold material combinations and

maximum functionality. Additionally, it impresses through innovative architecture, staging kitchens in a new and innovative way, underlining one’s passion for the outstanding and the extravagant.

More than kitchen Nobilia’s current collection enables a holistic living design for the home under the More Than Kitchen brand. Be it a wall unit, a dining room, living room, utility room or bathroom vanity unit, Nobilia, cuts a remarkable figure outside the kitchen. When designing your new kitchen, you may immediately include the furnishing of the adjacent living areas, from the same material combination of your kitchen, aiming for a trendy, complementary interior design.

As days turn into years, and we outgrow our home storage space, Nobilia’s clever utility room concept steps in. The utility rooms have different functions thanks to practical and ergonomic planning, cleverly arranged in very small footprint. They offer individual laundry care, cleaning and storage solutions, among other options, further to an extensive assortment of practical accessories, allowing for optimal room planning, perfectly tailored to one’s needs.

The trend of an individually planned interior design with a homely feel, continues also in the bathroom, a very personal retreat where Nobilia’s More Than Kitchen offers aesthetic designs that aid wellbeing. Be it a warm wood look, high-quality slate, modern concrete, high-gloss or matt surfaces, the bathroom furniture is inspired by nature and current trends in interior design. n

Nobilia kitchens and other furniture are covered by a 5-year warranty term. For your full Nobilia experience, visit Oxford House of Triq L-Imdina, Central Business District, Birkirkara, open from Monday to Friday 09:00-19:00 and on Saturday 09:00-13:00.

Follow Oxford House on Facebook or visit www.oxfordhouse.com.mt.

March 2020 is Kitchens’ Month at Oxford House; benefit from free Bosch appliances, sink and mixer with every kitchen ordered (T&Cs apply).

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T&F ARCHITECTURE

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ARCHITECTURE T&F

SEEING BEAUTYIN LIGHT

Caravaggio’s last work, “Il Martirio di Sant’Orsola” inspired the design process that transformed a wardamaged 18th century palazzo in Valletta’s Saint Ursula Street into a contemporary private home.

Architects: AP Valletta Design team lead: Rosanne Asciak Structural engineering: Charles Sciberras Services engineers: Scicluna & Associates Project dates: 2012 – 2019 Photography: Luis Rodriguez Lopez

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SEEING BEAUTYIN LIGHT

C

onserved at the Gallerie d’Italia in Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano in Naples, Il Martirio di Sant’Orsola is believed to be Caravaggio’s last work. As is customary in his paintings, Caravaggio moves away from the traditional iconography of Saint Ursula, portraying the moment when Attila, the Hun tyrant, having been rejected by Ursula, stabs her with an arrow. Here, the artist portrays his subject not as a saint who sacrifices her life for the faith, but as an ordinary human being, a woman who refuses to compromise. In the same spirit, the transformation of this 18th century palazzo in St Ursula Street followed its own path, breaking away from canonical architectural schemes whenever necessary.

Martirio di SantOrsola - Caravaggio, Galleria di Palazzo Zavellos, Naples.

Rough and smooth and shifting shafts of light characterise the main staircase.

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ARCHITECTURE T&F

The couryard, once open to the elements, is now roofed over in glass.

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T&F ARCHITECTURE

SEEING BEAUTYIN LIGHT

t Contemporary finishes - poured concrete and glass flooring, high gloss white door panels, white metal railings - give the historic interior a contemporary feel.

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he townhouse was severely damaged during World War II and had lain in a state of disrepair for decades, internally partitioned to accommodate multiple tenancies. The design brief was to restore the grandeur and noble spirit of the property, reinstating the original scale and proportions of the spaces, bringing the house back to life as a contemporary private home. The concept design was a collaborative effort of AP Valletta’s design team together with the client. The design intervention is open and luminous, inserting itself into the building’s ancient fabric while respecting its authentic architectural features.

The courtyard has been transformed into an atrium with part of the original stonework left exposed.

q Part of the roof extension houses a bathroom behind a perforated wall.

T&F ARCHITECTURE

SEEING BEAUTYIN LIGHT

L

ight floods in through the central skylight which roofs over the courtyard, seeping into the surrounding rooms and corridors, moulding the spaces and giving plasticity and texture to the walls. “In a sense, chiaroscuro is the ‘material’ we played with the most throughout the house,” says Rosanne Asciak, the design team lead. “There is a constant play of light and shadow throughout the building, not only through the actual light that seeps into the house, but also through the play of dark and light textures and colours within the internal and external materials, such as the roof deck paving which is alternately light and dark through its texture.”

The glass roof over the courtyard acts as a floor at roof level, extending the terrace space. An internal glass floor allows natural light to flood the interior.

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Surfacing the most beautiful spaces

Fireplace: Private Residence BLUE STONE MARBLE

HALMANN VELLA LTD, The Factory, Mosta Road, Lija. LJA 9016. Malta

www.halmannvella.com T: (+356) 21 433 636

E: info@halmannvella.com

T&F ARCHITECTURE

SEEING BEAUTYIN LIGHT

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oofing over the courtyard in glass with a customised structure, retains one of the courtyard’s principal functions – the building core is illuminated naturally – and emphasises the centripetal building plan typical of its period. The house now has a new layer of light and shade, softening the contrast between indoors and out and between solid and void. The transparency of the skylight creates visual connections with the remodelled roof area, which includes a plunge pool and enjoys an extended floor space thanks to the reinforced glass.

T&F ARCHITECTURE

P

arametric design was part of the design process for various elements of the project. Within the roof extension, solid areas of the faรงade walls provide shade where sunlight is strongest during the day and the glassed-in openings are positioned in areas which are normally shaded, maximising the use of natural light and minimising unwanted heat gain.

The apparently random positioning of the openings creates an interesting visual effect as the natural light moves through daily and seasonal cycles. A secondary spiral staircase was custom-built in steel and concrete linking all levels of the house, its design derived from the perforated wall concept of the roof extension. Daylight filters down through the slit skylight above the spiral staircase while, after dark, internal lighting makes the central support structure glow like a lantern.

u The perforated structure of the spiral stairs mimics the perforated wall design of the rooftop extension, allowing light to filter through.

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q The staircase is custom-built from steel treads set into a central structure built in smooth concrete blocks cast from steel moulds.

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SEEING BEAUTYIN LIGHT

At night, internal lighting shines through the spiral staircase, creating a lantern effect.

Established in Malta since 2008, Lime Building Products is a family run company that provides products and services to the restora on sector. Also, our contrac ng company specialises in altera ons to exis ng period buildings, building extensions and penthouses and addi onal floors to tradi onal buildings.

Lime Building Products provides a Turnkey service supplying project management and various types of fine finishes to walls and floors along with, the supply of M+E, li services, and apertures etc.

Lime Building Products also supplies restora on products purposely made and manufactured in Belgium and Italy for the restora on industry using Hydraulic Lime, Hydrated Lime, Terraco a, Silica Sand, Deffun and many other products. We are currently suppliers for Unilit, Coridecor, Natural Tadelakt, Lime Pu y Paints, Decorlux, Coris l, Merkelback Beeswax and Uula Linseed Oil Coloured Paint and Repla Cavity Wall Membrane System.

Lime Building Products – T: 2142 0100, 7991 3709 | limeproducts@spikenet.net.mt | limeproducts.com.mt

T&F ARCHITECTURE

SEEING BEAUTYIN LIGHT

T

he original main stairway within the courtyard was reclad in marble which was also used on the ground floor.

Materials and craftsmanship play an important part in the home’s interior architecture: high-grade marbles from Halmann Vella Ltd., bespoke cabinetry and joinery by ChillisChilli Ltd., interior wall finishes and internal concrete flooring works by Lime Building Products Ltd and Xuereb Installations Ltd., and steelworks

by Kev’s Iron Works, Steel Structures Ltd. and Servgroup Ltd.

The main staircase has been clad in marble, a smooth contrast to the exposed stonework.

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Zebrino marble covers the wall and the inner side of the door in one of the bathrooms. The customised bathroom sink is carved from solid marble.

Marble works are by Halmann Vella.

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T&F ARCHITECTURE

I

n an interesting artistic take on the trend for open-plan living, the kitchen and dining areas occupy the sala nobile but the functionality of the kitchen is camouflaged. Storage is hidden behind tall cupboard doors in high gloss white.

A large screen in Patagonia marble, cut and installed in bookform, acts as a backdrop to the large marble dining table by Mangiarotti, shielding the food preparation and cooking space from view.

p A marble panel shields the kitchen workspace from view, providing a backdrop to the dining space. The kitchen hob is set into the gallarija overlooking the street.

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q A large marble table by Mangiarotti dominates the kitchen space. The overall room tone is kept neutral with high gloss door and cupboard panels in white and a floor in poured concrete.

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SEEING BEAUTYIN LIGHT

The Flos pendant lamp and Mangiarotti marble table were sourced by the home owner.

PATTERNED CONCRETE, POLISHED CONCRETE, EXPOSED AGGREGATE, DESIGNER PRECAST CONCRETE, INTERNAL AND EXTERNAL CONCRETE FURNITURE, IN SITU TERRAZZO FLOORING AND ARTIFICIAL ROCKSCAPES. Decora ve Concrete Services are celebra ng their 20th year as Malta’s leading decora ve concrete specialist with extensive projects such as Portomaso, Beef Bar, pool deck and swimming pool at Phoenicia Hotel, renova on of Bormla public areas, Ta’ Pinu Sanctuary Pavis in Gozo, Toy Story Disneyland in Paris as well as many other commercial and industrial projects along with numerous domes c works.

Decora ve Concrete Services – T: 2142 0100, 7991 3709 | decora ve@spikenet.net.mt | dcsmalta.com

T&F ARCHITECTURE

W

hen remov ing the cl adding around the main door, the architects discovered that the original stone moulding was badly damaged and parts of it had to be replaced. Innocent (Vince) Centorino, who is extremely knowledgeable in faรงade stereotomy, was able to advise the design team on interpreting the surviving fragments to establish the original proportions of the moulding. Restoring an old building, particularly in Valletta, is filled with such unknown unknowns: design issues and problems emerge as the work progresses.

It takes skill to see the potential for beauty and passion to bring it to light.

Fortunately, this house has found plenty of both and, one suspects, Caravaggio would approve. n

q The roof area has been transformed into a relaxation space with a plunge pool with views over Valletta's Grand Harbour and the surrounding roofscape.

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SEEING BEAUTYIN LIGHT

u The marble-framed marble screen in the kitchen shields the cupboards and worktops from view.

T&F INTERIORS

THE

TOTAL REFIT Gutting out and totally refitting a home is most people’s nightmare. To someone who loves interior design, it is a welcome challenge.

Design: Jonathan Bonnici, One Two One Interiors • Photography: Mark Sapienza

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T&F INTERIORS

An open plan kitchen flows into the living and dining area. Cupboards and countertops are in soothing neutral colours.

W

hen Jonathan Bonnici took on this project, he knew he would have a free hand in turning it around. Apart from the project budget and structural concerns, there were no limits on what he was allowed to do to conjure up a home from an impersonal space.

The apartment’s layout was completely rethought, reorganised and rewired.

That meant lots of the sort of work (and inevitable dust clouds) that would horrify and dishearten anyone with less enthusiasm.

The first things to go were the existing furniture and furnishings, followed soon after by unwanted partition walls. A storeroom at the centre of the apartment was dismantled, its walls removed to open up the space so that it flows into the central living area. Wiring was ripped u Transluscent blinds framed by bespoke curtains, allow natural light to flow into the interior.

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INTERIORS T&F

Parquet flooring throughout the apartment gives the interior a warm feel.

out or rerouted to where it would be needed. Soffits were installed to mask the circuitry of the new air conditioning, lighting design, and intelligent home control system.

The redesign and refit took in all the trimmings: from new ceiling coving and skirting boards to door panels and hardware, the attention to detail is evident throughout the refreshed interior. Storage space was maximised throughout the apartment without compromising its open, airy feel. In the master bedroom, wall-towall and floor-to-ceiling cupboards are tucked away behind mirrored doors. “The first idea was to install a wall-sized mirror,” Jonathan says. “That would simply have made the room feel bigger without adding any extra space.” A walk-in wardrobe area was built into the second bedroom. t Layering curtains and blinds add visual texture. The plain coloured curtains were chosen to match the walls.

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T&F INTERIORS

Custom-made teal-coloured cushions add a dash of colour in one of the bedrooms.

The basic colour palette is soft and neutral, but the overall look is anything but bland, layered and richly textured with a variety of materials, fabrics and patterns picked out to create a calm and welcoming interior.

“Layering and texture are really important in interiors,” Jonathan says. “A colour scheme is a personal choice. We used a neutral palette here, but even if you choose brighter colours, varying textures make all the difference between blandness and sophistication.”

Layering doesn’t mean stirring everything into the mix. The various textures and patterns are carefully chosen to complement each other rather than compete. In the master bedroom, the curtains are in plain-coloured, textured fabric that visually blends with the wall colour, acting as a foil to the eye-catching pattern of the Roman blinds which echo the design motif of the wardrobe doors. The wall paper is textured, rather than patterned, providing visual interest without screaming for attention. In the second bedroom, the wallpaper pattern is busy so the curtains are plain coloured to match the walls.

In the living area, different curtain fabrics were used on the various apertures to avoid a too-much-too-matched feel, and the layering effect continues with contrasting fabric textures in the sheers, blinds and curtains. The pattern of the blue and white vase lamps is picked up in the woven pattern of one of the sets of curtains. “Lamps create atmosphere,” Jonathan says. “I always advise customers to choose light bulbs carefully. It’s better to have more, less powerful lamps on if you want a warm atmosphere.”

All the furniture and soft furnishings are available from One Two One Interiors.

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Bespoke cushions in a variety of patterns and textures create an inviting feel in the living area.

Colour accents "lift" the look of an interior.

The neutral colour palette foregrounds pattern and texture.

All the upholstery and soft furnishings are bespoke.

T&F INTERIORS

The dining space flows through to the living area, anchored half way by the open plan kitchen.

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INTERIORS T&F

REFRESH YOUR HOME F Soft furnishings are a painless way to add texture or ring the changes.

Brightly coloured cushions can “lift” a tired look, and a fresh pair of curtains can change the way a room feels.

F Edit your possessions.

Keep everything you want to, but display them selectively. Put some into storage, if you can’t bear to let them go.

F Position items as a group to create impact e.g. hang paintings together, display a collection of curios in an open bookcase.

F Bring in some indoor plants and buy yourself some flowers.

Green adds life and sophistication and flowers create an elegant look.

They make any space feel more like a home.

F Pick out objects with organic shapes, like animals, plants, or trees. They add life to an interior.

F Don’t be too eclectic.

There needs to be a common thread linking things together visually, whether it’s a colour or design detail.

Jonathan Bonnici

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T&F TRENDS

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1. Marnisi Organic. Marsovin’s MARNISI is the first Maltese wine falling in the premium wine category to be certified and awarded the official seal of “Organic Wine”. The 8.5 ha Marnisi Estate is situated near Marsaxlokk in the South of Malta. The Marnisi blend represents the three grape varieties on this estate and is made from 100% organically grown grapes which include over 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, about 30% Merlot and smaller quantities of Cabernet Franc. Marnisi wine has a deep colour intensity, aromas and flavours of a black fruit character with complex hints of leather, smoke and spice. Twelve months ageing in French oak barrels give it a velvety finish on the palate and excellent ageing potential.

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2. The Phoenix Restaurant is a little piece of history nestled snugly into the grandeur of The Phoenicia, an unusually large room filled with natural light and adorned with rich fabrics, enhanced by patterned walls, colourful carpets and fine chandeliers.

The quality of design is reflected in the culinary feats of the award-winning brigade of chefs. Here you can enjoy the fresh taste of the Mediterranean with the carefully crafted menu using only the finest ingredients.

Open for dinner and weekend brunch, The Phoenix Restaurant eagerly awaits your visit. The Phoenicia Malta. Tel: +356 2122 5241, dine@phoeniciamalta.com, www.phoeniciamalta.com

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3. Jean Claude Boisset Clos de Vogeot Grand Cru. This walled vineyard or “clos” once belonged to the monks of Cîteaux Abbey. This plot is located in the middle of the Clos de Vougeot, on the Vosne-Romanée side.

The soil in the upper part of the clos is a mix of clay and brown gravel soil, and the middle part is also very stony on the surface. In the lower part of the vineyard, the soil gets deeper and becomes increasingly rich in clay, which gives firmer structure to the wines.

Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd. T. +356 2156 3231 viniecapricci@abrahams.com. mt www.viniecapricci.com

4. Grana. Perfectly baked pizza, juicy tender meat and tasty pasta. That’s what Grana is all about. Bring your family, gather your friends and join Grana for delicious dishes specially crafted by experienced chefs. Open for lunch from Monday to Friday 12:30-15:00 and for dinner 18:00-22:30hrs. Grana is also open during the weekend from 12”30 onwards.

Grana, Henry F. Bouverie Street, Il-Gżira GZR 1224 T. 2016 5109 facebook. com/granamalta

5. Meridiana Wine Estate’s Nexus DOK Malta is a premium red wine made exclusively from hand-picked Maltese Merlot grapes. Nexus has a clear, deep, purple-red colour; intense, ripe, cherry-plum aromas; and rich, wellstructured, fruit flavours with soft tannins and a long finish.

For more information about Meridiana’s complete range of wines please visit www. meridiana.com.mt or you may also find us on Facebook.

Trade enquiries: S Rausi Trading, Stadium Street, Gzira. www.srausi.com

DESIGN T&F

q Bridgepoint offers a wide range of in-stock kitchen taps and stainless steel kitchen sinks. The brand currently stocks over 40 different kitchen tap models varying from standard, pull out, catering and dual function taps delivering also pure, filtered drinking water. These ranges come in different finishes such as electroplated black and PVD Satin Gold. Bridgepoint also stocks a range of handmade and pressed sinks. The full range can be viewed at Bridgepoint, Old Railway Track, Santa Venera or can also be purchased online on bridgepointmalta.com

t Spokes by Foscarini expresses a feeling of light weight and motion.

As if crossing a magical and geometrical mesh, the light filters out from the inside, projecting a kaleidoscope of blocks and voids. The shape of the Spokes suspension lamp recalls a lantern or an aviary. Spokes family is available in various shapes, sizes and colours. Available at Elektra Ltd., Qormi.

Walk-In Wardrobes by San Giacomo. The Bellavista walk-in closet creates the atmosphere of a sophisticated and well-organised fashion boutique in the home.

Every outfit and accessory is within reach and on view, in a display made even more functional by pull-out accessories which can be tailor-made to your every whim.

Selection available on display exclusively at Satariano, Valley Road, B’Kara. Tel 2149 2149.

p Silestone worktops for your kitchen. Silestone kitchen worktops have exclusive properties that contribute safety, confidence and hygiene in a space where we spend more time. Silestone has become the skin of thousands of worktops all over the world. The wide range of colours and textures creates a unique environment where you can unleash your creativity. Your kitchen can be a unique space harmoniously integrated with custom-made style thanks to Silestone. See the wide range of colour combinations at Halmann Vella, Mosta Road, Lija. www.halmannvella.com

u Lea is the new Midj soft chair designed by Paolo Vernier and stands out for its sinuous lines and rounded corners. It can be upholstered in different materials to create infinite combinations for residential or contract furnishing, fitting harmoniously in the most refined public spaces and in the most welcoming living environments. The seat and backrest can be upholstered in leather, faux leather or in different fabrics. The back also comes in an optional wooden back.

This stunning configuration of the Lea chair is now available at Joinwell.

p ICONIC DESKS by Poltrona Frau. Poltrona Frau presents the Trust executive office system. Desks, self-supporting walls and storage units designed by Lievore, Altherr and Park for a completely new office concept. Trust is a collection that stems from in-depth research into the evolution of contemporary work. Available on display at Satariano, Valley Road, B’Kara. Tel 2149 2149.

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T&F ART

BEAUTY IN THE BROKEN Megan Mallia on Kintsukuroi, the art of perfect imperfection

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intsukuroi, also known as kintsugi, is a centuries-old Japanese tradition that captures the idea of beauty in imperfection.

When a pottery object is broken, the pieces are joined together again with a tree sap lacquer and the veins of resin dusted with powdered gold or silver. Instead of attempting to mask the fact that the object had been broken, “golden joinery” boldly embraces the breakage as part of the object’s history.

Kintsukuroi transcends the merely material and is best understood as an art form or way of thinking, rather than simply a technique of repair. It possesses a spiritual quality, relating to the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi, which calls for seeing beauty in the imperfect. The aesthetic personifies an object and recognises that the object’s fractures symbolise its transition through life, much like the pain one experiences shapes one’s way of being.

The art of Kintsukuroi teaches us that beauty rests in flaws. If nothing else, you need not feel so terrible when a favourite piece of china breaks. Think of it as the beginning of a transformation. n

The next issue of will be out on 5th April 2020 with The Malta Independent on Sunday.

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For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt

THE ALL NEW MAZDA CX-30 NOW AVAILABLE AT THE GASAN ZAMMIT SHOWROOM IN MRIEHEL

GasanZammit Motors Ltd., Mriehel Bypass, Mriehel BKR3000 Tel: 27788222 email: mazda@gasanzammit.com mazda.com.mt