Taste & Flair July 2022

ISSUE 148 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

Feed your imagination FOOD · WINE · TRAVEL · ARCHITECTURE · INTERIORS

JULY 2022

SUMMER

SALE

think quality, get comfort, live luxury.

FREE

BOSCH DISHWASHER when buying your nobilia kitchen.

Offer valid till 13th August. T&Cs apply.

Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara T. 2546 4000 | info@oxfordhouse.com.mt | www.oxfordhouse.com.mt

Skyline is Marcel Wanders studio’ tribute to a charismatic cosmopolitan globetrotter who comes back to Apulia, bringing with him a wealth of experience and inspiration.

The classical overtones and the pleasant roundness of the Chesterfield give way to sharp New-York style architecture.

This is where Via Appia and Park Avenue meet.

NATUZZI ITALIA Valley road, Msida

/

www.natuzzi.com

harmony makers designed by Marcel Wanders studio

T&F EDITORIAL Gabriela Gherghel’s Cheese Gallette - photo by Gabriela Gherghel. See feature on page 36.

Welcome J

uly is when you least want to spend time in the kitchen slaving over the proverbial hot stove. It’s worth the effort simply for the joy and pleasure of a shared meal but if you really can’t take the heat, try some of the simpler recipes prepared for Taste&Flair.

Award-winning chef Edward Diacono and Deo Tabone cooked up a spread of mouthwatering Mediterranean flavours, Gabriela Gherghel prepared traditional dishes at home in Romania and Malta, Mandy Mallia’s Sicilian Cannoli are a sweet treat, Claire Borg went to Sardinia, fell in love with the cuisine, and brought back a handful of recipes with intriguing names, and Andrew Azzopardi picks out overlooked summer wines. In our architecture and interiors section, we take a look at a contemporary interior filled with bespoke and fun elements, an old townhouse reimagined as a holiday home for two young families, and a 17th century stable block converted into a rental residence with views of a garden.

We’ll be taking a much-needed break in August and will be back in September.

If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher.

Tahitian Landscape (1891), part of the Minneapolis Institute of Art collection

“As I wanted to suggest a luxuriant and untamed type of nature, a tropical sun that sets aglow everything around it, I was obliged to give my figures a suitable setting… This is the reason behind all these fabulous colors, this subdued and silent glow” – Paul Gauguin 4

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*.

The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

Follow Taste&Flair on

T&F CONTENTS

p24

10

Sardinian paradise Claire Borg’s take on traditional cuisine

22

Forgotten flavours Andrew Azzopardi on fresh summer wines

p10

24

Summer in a mouthful Edward Diacono’s and Deo Tabone’s mouthwatering Mediterranean flavours

CONTENTS 36

Romania Gabriela Gherghel’s taste of home

48

Sweet souvenir Mandy Mallia’s Sicilian cannoli

50

Walled city living New life for an old townhouse

62

p62

Colour and light A converted 17th century stable block with garden views

72

Convivial living A contemporary interior, perfect for entertaining

p50 6

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

p72

PAY YOUR BILLS WHEREVER YOU ARE

Talk to us | bov.com |

@bovofficial

Issued by Bank of Valletta p.l.c., 58, Triq San Żakkarija, Il-Belt Valletta VLT 1130. Bank of Valletta p.l.c. is a public limited company regulated by the MFSA and is licensed to carry out the business of banking in terms of the Banking Act (Cap. 371 of the Laws of Malta).

T&F PROMOTION

Le Bistro moves

OUTDOORS O

n long, warm, sunny days, we increasingly look for reasons to spend time outdoors. We search for places and spaces where we can bask in a calm and relaxing environment; where we can enjoy a chilled glass of wine or a long, cold drink; sample food that immediately reflects the season, and all the while enjoying the cool evening breeze.

Which is why you need to look for those places which might not be immediately obvious, those that are seemingly, tucked away, albeit, at times, within a five -star hotel. Le Bistro is certainly one of those rare places which ticks all the boxes.

With a menu and cuisine that often borders on a fine dining experience, with an impeccably stellar service, topped by a stunning environment and all the facilities imaginable, Le Bistro at the Radisson Blu Resort St. Julian’s is the place to be.

Le Bistro’s menu was recently updated and re-curated and filled with recipes and ingredients characteristic of warm, Mediterranean summers – a feast for patrons’ taste buds several weeks in the making. The team of chefs have outdone themselves with a selection of unique flavour combinations which are both complementary to and enhance the dining experience.

8

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

Featuring an assortment of fresh fish dishes, a generous selection of cuts of meat, as well as a few staple favourites, the menu also includes various mouthwatering vegetarian options, such as the pickled wild mushrooms, accompanied by an aubergine caviar and radish salad; or the asparagus and pea soup, which is topped with ricotta salata, or even the pistachio risotto.

You might head to Le Bistro for the food and the menu, however, the unique atmosphere is what will win you over. Dining al fresco on a sprawling terrace overlooking the sea is quite unbeatable, and being able to indulge in a tantalising meal while enjoying nature’s colours reflected in the water’s surface is incomparable. The free parking facilities complete the experience, which is as close to the ideal as it comes. n Le Bistro is open Monday - Thursday 18:00 to 22:00 Friday & Saturday 18:00 to 22:30 Sunday 12:00 to 15:00, 18:00 to 22:00 Booking is recommended and can be made online, at lebistromalta.com

PROMOTION T&F

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

9

T&F RECIPES

10

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

RECIPES T&F

Sardinian aradise P Unlike Sicily, Sardinia is an overlooked culinary destination. Claire Borg visited, fell in love with the scenery and cuisine Food and photography: Claire Borg

S

ardinia. It stands just above Sicily, but somehow we tend to overlook it.

It’s there, majestic, vibrant, wild and waiting to be explored. Flying there takes just an hour. The airport is at the water’s edge, with lagoons and flocks of flamingoes standing just beneath you. Cagliari is very close to the airport, so in no time at all you can be in the town centre.

It’s an Italian island, just a little smaller than Sicily, so we tend to compare them.

The good food, the language and the warm hospitality are very much similar. If I had to describe the islands in colours, Sicily would be red and orange, whereas Sardinia would be blue and green. There is one pretty beach after the other, surrounded by vegetation all the way to the water’s edge. There are flamingoes everywhere, little fishing villages to discover and explore. It’s really very pretty.

Although I only had time to visit the southern part of the island, I was more than happy to do so and that means I have yet another reason to go back.

Sardinian food is delicious. I was on the coast, so the food I tried is mostly based on fish. Their pasta has very particular names that might sound strange when you first encounter them. Fregola looks similar to our kusksu pasta (which we serve in a traditional broad bean and gbejna soup), but is toasted. You can find a finer fregola and a slightly larger one, but it’s basically a pasta to be eaten al cucchiaio - by the spoon - with a fish and tomato-based sauce or else a sausage, basil and tomato sauce.

Culurgiones are a filled pasta, with a particular shape, similar to a dumpling, filled with a potato and mint filling, then served on a bed of tomato sauce. The malloreddus (sardinian gnocchetti) are a bit similar to cavatelli or orecchiette.

Sardinians serve them with a sausage ragù or with a pesto and tomato sauce.

Pasta with vongole and bottarga di muggine are delicious. Muggine is grey mullet, or mulett as we know it in Maltese. The bottarga from this fish is the most sought after and delicious. Enjoying it finely grated over pasta with vongole with a very cold glass of white wine while overlooking a sandy beach on the southern part of Sardinia is a feast for all the senses.

The berries of mirto, a common myrtle bush that grows everywhere, make a fantastic tart and a bittersweet liqueur which is aromatic notes of rosemary and juniper. The pane Carasau, double-toasted wafer-thin bread is served drizzled with olive oil, rosemary and sea salt. Enjoy that with one of their aged goat cheeses.

Need I say more? If you want to relax, eat well and be amazed by another destination, just go there. You will fall in love. Sardinia needs to be visited.

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

11

T&F RECIPES

Culurgiones

These typical ravioli-like stuffed pasta are very famous all over Sardinia. They vary depending on the household and region, so there are many versions of this traditional dish. Basically they are filled with a potato and mint filling, but some people add fresh pecorino, others use a more seasoned one, some cooks add garlic or a soffritto, some even substitute mint with nepitella (a variant from the mint family). Closing and sealing culurgiones can be quite fiddly, so if you want to make a simple version of them, just close them like a raviolo. It won’t be authentic, but will still taste delicious.

FOR THE DOUGH

300g flour 00 • 200g fine semolina 270g of water • 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil FOR THE FILLING

1 kg of potatoes 8 100g grated pecorino 2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 25 mint leaves • salt and pepper

1. Cook the potatoes with the

skins on. They will absorb less water and your filling will be lighter and fluffier. Drain them, let them cool slightly, then peel and mash them. Add the remaining ingredients and mix them in well. Set the bowl aside.

2. Prepare the dough while

the filling cools. Mix the flour and semolina together, make a well in the centre and add the salt, water, and oil. Tip the ingredients together and mix them until a dough forms.

Knead it until it is smooth, then cover it and let it rest at room temperature for 30-40 minutes.

3. Roll out the dough until it is very thin, then cut it into discs.

Use a spoon to add filling to the centre of the dough discs and then either close and seal them in the traditional way (look online for a demo video) or simply press the edges together, just like a raviolo.

4. Boil the filled pasta in salted water and serve on a bed of tomato basil sauce, garnished with fresh basil leaves and more grated pecorino on the side.

12

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

Basic tomato and basil sauce

Turn an abundance of sun-ripened summer tomatoes into a tasty sauce. This stores well, so you could prepare it in large batches and freeze it in meal-sized portions YOU WILL NEED

2 kg large plump tomatoes 2 medium onions 1 big handful of fresh basil leaves 10 cloves of garlic olive oil salt and pepper ½ a glass of white wine 1 spoon of butter (optional)

1. Wash and quarter the tomatoes,

peel and slice the onions, and spread them all out in a baking tray.

2. Peel the garlic cloves and add then to the baking tray. Wash the basil leaves and scatter half of them over the tomato mix.

3. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, and roast in a hot oven (set on 200°C) till the tomatoes are blistered and soft. This will take about 30 minutes.

4. Transfer everything to a large pot, add the white wine and the remaining basil and stir everything together. Cover the pot and let it simmer for an hour on low heat 5. Add the knob of butter (optional)

and blend the sauce until it is smooth.

Season to taste. Any leftover sauce can be left to cool down naturally and then stored in the freezer.

RECIPES T&F

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

13

T&F RECIPES

14

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

RECIPES T&F

Malloreddus (gnocchetti Sardi) with Pesto and Roasted cherry tomatoes

For this, I used a homemade basil and almond pesto which I had stored in the freezer. I find freezing pesto in small batches is a great way of preserving freshness and guarantees a good pesto any time I need it. At short notice, a shop bought pesto can do the trick.

Serves 2 YOU WILL NEED

250g pasta • 1 punnet of cherry tomatoes 10 cloves of garlic, peeled • olive oil • salt and pepper 4 tablespoons basil pesto (or a pesto of your liking) basil leaves to garnish and a few pine nuts (optional) grated Pecorino (optional)

1. Wash and halve the tomatoes and place them on a baking tray. Add the whole cloves of garlic, drizzle everything with olive oil, sprinkle with some salt and bake everything in a hot oven on 200°C for 20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, bring a pot of salted water to the boil and

cook the pasta according to the instructions.

3. Mix the pasta with the pesto, then add the roasted cherry tomatoes.

Mix and serve with grated cheese, some basil and pine nuts.

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

15

T&F RECIPES

Spaghetti vongole e bottarga Serves 2

YOU WILL NEED

250g spaghetti 500g fresh vongole 10 cloves of garlic 1 glass of white wine bottarga • olive oil

1. Rinse the vongole and remove any which are open. Place the vongole in a pot,

add the chopped garlic, a good drizzle of olive oil, and the white wine. Cover the pan and let the mixture cook for 4 minutes, or until the seashells open.

2. Drain the cooking juices into a jug and set it aside. Meanwhile, cook

the spaghetti for 3 minutes under the suggested time. Drain the pasta and place it in a large pan. Add the cooking juices from the vongole (do not pour the last bit as there might be some sand at the bottom) and continue to cook the pasta in the juice for another 3 minutes.

3. Add the vongole and mix well. Turn off the heat, add grated

bottarga to your heart’s desire and serve at once.

16

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

RECIPES T&F

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

17

T&F RECIPES

18

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

RECIPES T&F

Fregola with Red Prawns

Fregula pasta is typical of Sardinia and looks like a coarse version of Maltese kusksu pasta or Middle Eastern Moghrabieh. It is made from semolina dough rolled into small pellets that are then lightly toasted in an oven. The pasta I used needed 10 minutes of cooking time. I boiled it for 5 minutes, drained it, then finished cooking it in the sauce.

Serves 2 YOU WILL NEED

250g Fregola pasta • 500ml of tomato and basil sauce Garlic, peeled • olive oil • 8 to 10 prawns fresh herbs (mint, marjoram and basil) some saffron • ½ a glass of white wine

1. Warm a pan and drizzle it with oil. Add the prawns, garlic, herbs

and white wine and cook them quickly. This will take 3 minutes.

2. Remove the prawns and add the tomato sauce and saffron. Cook

the pasta till al dente in the sauce. The pasta will absorb a lot of the fluid, so you might need to reserve some of the cooking water to add as you go along. Just before serving, add the prawns, mix the sauce with the pasta, plate it and serve it immediately.

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

19

T&F PROMOTION

The Edge Restaurant S

ummer is all about feeling good. Whether it’s to go on holiday for a long-deserved break from the day-to-day routine; or to make more time to enjoy the company of close friends; whether it’s diving into the book that’s been sitting on the bedside-table for the longest time; or indulging in a little “dolce far niente” by the sea or by the pool…and it’s decidedly about enjoying all the delicious ingredients and recipes that are staple of this warm, Mediterranean season.

And yet there is a way of ticking almost all of the above simultaneously. Nestled between the sea and the sprawling shoreline of St Julian’s, is Radisson Blu Resort St. Julian’s – an impeccable 5-star hotel that hosts a tempting collection of bars, cafés, and eateries. The Edge, a fabulous Lido during the day, turns into a casual, yet trendy resto-lounge in the evening.

20

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

With great views, a sea breeze, and the temptation of wholesome, good food, at your fingertips, all you need to keep you company is a friend or loved one to share a meal, or a good book you’ve been putting off reading.

The Edge’s team of chefs have curated an impeccable menu for patrons. With all the staple favourites one would expect to find - such as pizza and pasta - there are a few “twists” in the ingredients, introduced to reflect the season.

Try our Garganelli, Calamari and Octopus, Smoked Prawn Carbonara, mouthwatering Buffala Mozzarella and Olive Ravioli, and the tempting Asparagus Risotto. Main courses are just as decadent – to mention a few of the available options: Fresh Grilled Swordfish, Oven Baked Salmon, USDA Beef Sirloin, or Beyond Meat Burger.

PROMOTION T&F

The Edge, a fabulous Lido during the day, turns into a casual, yet trendy resto-lounge in the evening.

For those in the mood to nibble on something small, the menu includes myriad starters and platters to share, such as the Parma Ham and Burrata or Octopus Carpaccio. The menu also features a wonderful selection of drinks, cocktails, and mocktails… the thought of which, while lounging al fresco, with a sea-front view of the sun setting over the bay, is a little more than idyllic.

There are dozens of reasons to visit The Edge this summer - and the added bonus of free parking facilities for all patrons makes things a breeze. n Bookings are recommended by calling The Edge on +356 2137 4894, email: edgelido@rdbmalta.com, or web: rdbmalta.com/theedgelido

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

21

T&F WINE

Overlooked summer wines Faced with a daunting wine list and wondering what to choose?

Andrew Azzopardi picks out forgotten wines that taste fresh and new

T

here are so many restaurants in Malta nowadays, that it’s become a rather dauting affair to choose one for an evening out. I usually spend quite some time shortlisting a number of restaurants depending on what I feel like, only to end up at the same restaurant I’ve been frequenting for years. I guess I fall back into my comfort-zone knowing what to expect, unless the restaurant came highly recommended by a trustworthy friend.

Choosing wine from a wine-list is often a similar affair.

There are so many to choose from that it becomes rather overwhelming, especially for those with limited knowledge.

Unfortunately, people like us are missing out on new experiences for the sake of safety and comfort in knowing that our old, trusty choice usually does the trick.

So just like we take trust in our friend’s opinion of a new restaurant, I wanted to recommend some fresh and new – or simply forgotten – wines that are perfect for the hot summer months.

Champagne I can already hear you dismissing my first suggestion as being too big, bold and expensive, but please hear me out.

Most sparkling wines are a natural palate cleanser, but the carbonation in Champagne is the ultimate palate cleanser.

It revitalises your tongue, lifts any lingering flavours, and washes them away allowing you to enjoy every bite.

Brut Champagne is one of the most food-friendly wines around and yet it is hardly ever drunk during a meal. We insist on drinking champagne before a meal, when the build-up of acid in our stomach has reached breaking point, or after a meal with dessert, when any dry wine, including Brut Champagne will only taste bitter.

Am I really saying that we nearly always drink Champagne at the wrong the time, with the wrong the food? The answer is an astounding yes.

Brut Champagne often has fresh and precise flavours of citrus, pear and brioche which work wonders with steak, fried fish, lobster, seafood, and especially roast or fried chicken. Blancs de Blanc Champagne, made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes, is usually broader in flavour with bigger flavours of toast, butter, cream, vanilla, and a yeasty backdrop. This style works wonders with risottos, oysters and the creamier dishes, whereas Rosé Champagne flavours are 22

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

often likened to strawberries and cream which could work splendidly with richer meats such as duck, cured meats, grilled tuna, pizza, and even hamburgers.

These three styles alone pretty much cover most summer dishes, except dessert, but there are Champagnes that also work well if you have a sweet tooth. Choose Champagnes that are Sec or Demi-Sec if you’re after something slightly sweet to go with popcorn or fruit dishes and Doux if you’re looking for the sweetest Champagne of all to go with the sweetest of dishes such as lemon pie or custard.

Riesling I’m a self-confessed Riesling fan. Back in the 80’s we were under the impression that Riesling was a sickly-sweet wine with no complexity or freshness. If this wasn’t enough to put you off, the Germanic tongue-twisting labels are sure to put you off for good. Yet, many of these wines are incredibly fresh and bright. The Riesling grape can also produce some of the finest examples of age-worthy and complex wines.

Similar to Champagne, most Rieslings come in different levels of sweetness, which even though often written on the bottle, the German language makes harder for us to understand, so it is important to check or ask if the bottle is sweet or dry. Most Rieslings have a little bit of residual sugar, and even though they are not considered sweet, they can show off beautiful fruity flavours of lemon, apple, pear, peach, nectarine and sometimes even pineapple or apricot. Oftentimes, the fruity flavours are accompanied by honeycomb and lemon zest or floral scents such as jasmine.

When aged, linoleum scents and petrol flavours often emerge –the petrol flavours are not considered a fault in older Rieslings.

Besides the beautiful lean, but fresh, fruit flavours of Riesling, the classic Rieslings of Alsace, Germany, and Austria have a searing acidity and incredible minerality that give them a beautiful lift in the mouth that makes Riesling so flexible with different foods. So much so, that on difficult-to-pair foods, some sommeliers tend to choose Riesling for their somewhat neutral flavours and high minerality and acidity.

The sweeter Rieslings such as late harvest or those affected by noble rot (Botryits Cinerea) are spectacular with salty foods such as blue cheeses, foie gras and oysters, and similarly wonderful with honey or fruit desserts.

The classic Rieslings of Alsace, Germany, and Austria have a searing acidity and incredible minerality that give them a beautiful lift in the mouth

WINE T&F

Bordeaux Blanc

The typical Provence rosé is often light in colour and perfect with summer salads, fish, and light dishes.

When we think of Bordeaux wine, we usually think of red. In fact, we immediately think of a powerful, age-worthy red wine oozing blackberry, cherry, and cigar box flavours, but we tend to forget that Bordeaux also produces white wine. Till around 1950, about 50% of all Bordeaux wine was white. Nowadays the figure is closer to 10%, but the quality has exploded.

Usually, from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle, Bordeaux Blanc may be sweet or dry. And both are age-worthy, often aged in some oak and are unbelievably charismatic. The sweet wines of Sauternes exude honeysuckle, vanilla, marmalade, apricot, and peach flavours and can age for many years. Served chilled and in a proper wineglass, these wines are the perfect accompaniment to sweet dishes such as peaches, pies and crème brûlée, or even with saltier examples such as foie gras, stilton cheese, and even oysters.

The dry, lesser-known whites of Bordeaux are no second tier and can stand up to some of the best white wines in the world. It’s of no surprise especially when one considers that Sauvignon Blanc originated from Bordeaux. The cheaper white Bordeaux are usually light and fruity with big flavours of lemon, gooseberry, grass, honeysuckle, and wet stone, thus pairing with typical light summery dishes perfectly.

Most of the best quality examples of dry white wines from Bordeaux are from Pessac-Léognan and are richer and creamier in style due to the predominance of Semillon.

Interesting and complex flavours of pears, ginger, chamomile, lemon butter, and even crème brûlée are brightened with a fresh acidity that allows the flavours to delicately dance on the palate. Most of these wines are not too heavy on the oak and can be paired wonderfully with most fish dishes and even some of the richer salads. On my last trip to Bordeaux, most of my guests were so positively surprised with the quality, flexibility and value of white Bordeaux, they now usually have a bottle or two on standby in their fridge.

Rosé Rosé is one of those wines that screams summer. It can come in different styles and hues, from a soft and light pink to a darker, burnt orange colour. Traditionally known to be fresh and crisp, rosé wines are often meant to be drunk young when the wine is bursting with fresh fruit flavours of peaches,

apricots, oranges, raspberry, and strawberries, though there are exceptions to the rule.

Rosé wine in general has been seeing record sales year on year and is yet still considered second tier due to its oftinability to age and simple fruit-forward style. That said, many internationally-renowned châteaux in France, Italy, and California tend to serve their in-house rosé wines to their friends when popping over, because this is a wine that is easy on the palate, refreshing and juicy on a hot summer evening and we don’t have to drink extremely complex wines all the time.

There are times I would usually prefer a succulent rosé wine at an evening BBQ with friends, over a bold and complex wine.

Some of the best-known rosés hail from Côtes de Provence and are often recognised by their voluptuous bottle shapes.

The typical Provence rosé is often light in colour and perfect with summer salads, fish, and light dishes. The popularity of this style has led many other winemakers to follow this style, and the “Provence style” rosé is found in many different parts of the world.

Darker, orange-coloured rosé wines are not to be dismissed and are many times aged in oak and give a darker fruit character to the wine. These darker rosé wines can handle richer summer dishes such as grilled tuna, duck, and even BBQ steak and sausages without being overly rich or heavy. I still suggest chilling these wines to a cool 10°C to keep them light and fresh on a warm summer evening.

For those who seek more complexity, I can assure that there are some outstanding examples of complex and interesting rosé wines from across the wine-world. There are Provence-style gourmet rosés that, though rather expensive, are extremely food friendly and worth splurging on every once in a while.

The darker style rosés from Italy, Spain, and California are also producing some fantastic examples of complex, oak-aged wines. I specifically remember a “Gran Reserva” rosé from Rioja that was only released ten years after the vintage and was so complex and serious. These more complex styles are meant to be drunk with food and are a perfect accompaniment to many different dishes including charcuterie, sausages, jamón, and cheeses, whereas the lighter and fruitier style are great as an aperitif or even with light dishes. There’s pretty much a rosé for all days of the summer. n Andrew Azzopardi is a wine specialist certified by the Wine and Spirit Education Trust.

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

23

T&F CUISINE

SUMMER 24

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

IN A

CUISINE T&F

Warm summer evenings call for fresh ingredients and well-paired wines. Edward Diacono, multi-award-winning head chef, and Deo Tabone, sous chef, at Michelin Bib Gourmand Rubino prepared a mouth-watering menu of Mediterranean flavours.

Photography: Brian Grech Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi, Vintage82

MOUTHFUL ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

25

T&F CUISINE

Tomato soup Sun-ripened summer tomatoes make a delicious soup. Peel the tomatoes before chopping them up. They’ll blend faster and make a silkier soup.

Serve this hot or at room temperature.

YOU WILL NEED:

6 large żenguli tomatoes 1 large onion 1 tablespoon of butter 1 teaspoon olive oil 2 potatoes salt and pepper

1. Peel and chop the onion,

tomatoes, and potatoes.

2. Melt the butter in a pan and add the olive oil. Add the chopped onion and let it cook until tender.

3. Add the chopped tomatoes and potatoes. Season well and let the mixture simmer for 5 minutes.

4. Add 1-1½ litres of water, depending on how thick you like your soup.

Let it simmer for 30-45 minutes.

5. Using a hand blender, blend the

soup until it is smooth. For a silkier finish, I generally like to pass it through a sieve after blending to ensure a smooth consistency.

26

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

Serves 4

Recommended wine: Chianti classico

CUISINE T&F

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

27

T&F CUISINE

Parmigiana

Serves 4

Recommended wine: A Sangiovesebased wine such as Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Sliced aubergine layered with tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese – a classic Italian dish.

YOU WILL NEED:

4 large aubergines 1 handful of basil leaves 4 cans of polpa cubetti 2 tablespoons sugar sunflower oil 200g parmesan cheese salt and pepper

28

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

1. Line a flat dish

with kitchen paper and set it next to the cooker.

2. Put the polpa cubetti in a deep cooking pot, add the sugar and season well with salt and pepper.

Place the pot on a low heat and let it simmer for around

20 minutes, until the liquid thickens.

3. Meanwhile, slice the aubergines crossways into 1cm-thick rounds. Heat a frying pan, add a generous amount of sunflower oil and quickly fry the slices, letting them

brown slightly on both sides.

Transfer them to the paper-lined dish to remove any extra oil.

4. Preheat the oven to 180°C. 5. Prepare the

Parmiggiana in an oven-proof dish, starting with a layer of tomato sauce.

Top the sauce with aubergine slices, season well, top again with sauce and add basil leaves and parmesan cheese. Repeat the layers till all the aubergines and tomato sauce run out.

6. Bake the

Parmiggiana in the preheated for 25 minutes.

Serve warm.

T&F CUISINE

30

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

FRESH T&F

Prawn Crudo For this simple dish, use the freshest possible ingredients.

The flavours of sun-ripened tomato and lemon are a foil for the taste of the sea.

Serves 4

Recommended wine: A richer style Italian rosé

YOU WILL NEED:

12 red medium-sized prawns 4 large, soft tomatoes juice of 1 lemon olive oil salt and pepper

1. Cut the tomatoes in half and

use your hands to squeeze out all the liquid into a bowl. Run the tomato water through a sieve and mix in a drop of olive oil, salt, pepper, and lemon juice.

2. Rinse the prawns under cold water and carefully peel away all the shell, leaving the heads on. Using a sharp knife, carefully devein them.

3. Arrange the prawns on a flat plate and drizzle them with the tomato, lemon and olive oil mix. Serve immediately.

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

31

T&F CUISINE

Pulpetti Tal-Qarabali Mint, pine nuts, lemon, and sumac, give a particularly Mediterranean taste to these pulpetti drizzled with yogurt dressing.

Serves 4

Recommended wine: A mediumbodied, refreshing Bordeaux Blanc (white) YOU WILL NEED:

3 large marrows 50g grated pecorino cheese 300g sliced bread (stale bread) 1 medium-sized mozzarella ball 200g natural Greek yoghurt 50g pine nuts 1 onion 1 lemon 1 large egg (or 2 small eggs) 1 handful of fresh mint 1 pinch of sumac salt and pepper

32

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

1. Finely chop the

marrows and the peeled onion. In a dry pan, toast the pine nuts, add some olive oil and then add the marrows and onions and cook till tender.

Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside to cool down.

2. Chop the mozzarella into small cubes and add it to the mix along with the fresh mint, salt, pepper, and whole egg.

Mix well.

3. Blend the bread till it reaches breadcrumb consistency and stir it into the rest of the mix

until all the ingredients are well combined.

4. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. Take a small handful of the mixture and roll it into a ball and place it on a lined baking sheet. Repeat with the rest of the mixture, and then bake in the preheated oven for 20 minutes.

6. While the

pulpetti are cooking, prepare the dressing by mixing the yoghurt with salt and pepper, lemon juice, and sumac. Arrange the pulpetti on a plate and serve them warm, drizzled with the dressing.

CUISINE T&F

Baked Duck breast with a Fennel, Orange and mange tout salad Serves 4

Recommended wine: The lighter style Burgundy or New Zealand Pinot noir would work wonderfully with this salad.

YOU WILL NEED:

4 Barbary Duck breasts 3 fennel bulbs 2 oranges 1 packet mange tout olive oil mixed spice salt and pepper

1. Start off by

scoring the fat of the duck.

Season well with salt, pepper, and mixed spice. In a dry pan, seal the duck breast skin side down to ensure you get a crispy skin.

2. Preheat the oven to 180°C and cook the duck breasts for 17 minutes.

3. Roast the

fennel with a bit of olive oil, salt and pepper until it is tender.

Segment the oranges and blanch the mange tout in boiling water so that it remains al dente.

4. Remove the duck from the oven and let it rest for 5 minutes. In the meantime, mix the fennel, orange segments, and mange tout together with olive oil, salt, and pepper.

5. Thinly slice

the duck breast and serve it on top of the salad.

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

33

T&F CUISINE

Serves 4

Mezze Paccheri Siracusana YOU WILL NEED:

500g Mezze Paccheri 1 garlic clove 1 small onion 1 handful of mint 1 handful of basil 1 teaspoon chopped raisins 1 teaspoon toasted pine nuts 6 slices of bread 100g anchovies (oil and all) 150g white wine 1 pinch of chili 1 handful cherry tomatoes 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon rock salt salt and pepper

34

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

onion and garlic, and cut the tomatoes in half.

4. Add the tomatoes, garlic, onions and raisins and cook till tender. Add the white wine and simmer for around 5 minutes.

3. In a dry pan,

5. Cook the pasta

1. Bring a pot of

water to the boil and season it with rock salt.

2. Finely chop the

toast the pine nuts and add the anchovies. Cook until they start to evaporate.

in the salted water for 9-10 minutes until al dente. If the sauce starts to dry out, add some water from the pasta pot.

6. While

the pasta is cooking, blend the bread into breadcrumbs and either toast it in the oven until it is crispy or toast it in a dry pan to create a gremolata to sprinkle on top of the pasta.

Recommended wine: A slightly chilled Beaujolais-cru would pair perfectly. If you prefer a white wine, an Etna Bianco, Carricante would marry well too.

7. Drain the pasta, add it to the sauce and mix it well. Finally, add the fresh herbs, chilli, and seasoning.

8. Serve topped

with gremolata.

WHATEVER YOUR CUISINE, WE’VE GOT YOU COVERED. CHOOSE FROM OUR LARGE SELECTION OF BEAUTIFUL KITCHENWARE

VISIT US AT OUR NEW SHOWROOM 3, TRIQ IL-BACIR IL-GDID, PAOLA / Tel: 2123 3331 / info@ecb.com.mt

T&F TRAVEL & CUISINE

T R A N SY LV Where time flows differently There’s something magical about returning to the place where you grew up and rediscovering the unchanged rhythm of your childhood.

Gabriela Gherghel writes about her recent visit to her family home and her favourite recipes of her mother’s traditional cooking.

Food and photography: Gabriela Gherghel

36

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

TRAVEL & CUISINE T&F

ANIA

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

37

T&F TRAVEL & CUISINE

‘Easter cake’ with sweet cow’s cheese

“Originally a traditional Easter recipe, this cake can be served hot or cold and it is perfect with a fresh vegetable salad at any time of year. To make this, you will need a tart pan. ”

38

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

TRAVEL & CUISINE T&F

FOR THE DOUGH

300g all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon dry yeast 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon oil FOR THE FILLING

500g sweet cow’s cheese 7 eggs

1. Combine the sugar and yeast with

100ml of lukewarm water, stir it a bit and let it sit for 5 minutes.

2. In a large bowl, add the flour and combine it with the yeast mixture. You will need to add more water as you mix in everything, until the consistency of the dough doesn’t allow for easy stirring with a spoon. Once the ingredients are combined, begin to knead the dough by hand or use a stand mixer.

3. When everything is well mixed, the dough should feel sticky. Now add the oil and continue to knead the dough until it isn’t sticky anymore.

4. Cover the dough with a towel and leave it in a warm place.

In 30-50 minutes, it will have risen and will be ready to use.

5. Next, oil the tart pan and

preheat the oven to 180°C.

6. Place a ball of dough the size of

your fist on a flat, clean surface.

Roll out the dough until it is the diameter of your tart pan. Place it in the oiled pan and gently pull out the sides until it extends at least 3cm over the edges of the pan.

7. Crumble the cheese in a bowl. Beat 6 eggs and mix them in with the cheese until the mixture reaches a smooth consistency. Add the cheese to the tart pan and gently pull the dough edges over the cheese filling.

Finally, beat one egg and brush it over the top of your Easter cake.

8. Place the pan in the preheated oven

and cook the cake at 180°C for 35-40 minutes. If the top starts browning too fast, cover the pan with aluminium foil until the last 5-10 minutes, then remove it and let the top brown gently until the cake is done.

“No matter what you eat and how, everything on your plate would have come from the garden and the farm”

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

39

T&F TRAVEL & CUISINE

“This is the village where my mother, Lucreția, grew up and made the most amazing food for us to enjoy.”

W

e often hear that life moves more slowly in the countryside, that people are surrounded by nature and are immersed in its beauty. But I have noticed that time flows differently for every generation. The young people who only just move to the countryside do take things more slowly. But people who have lived there all their life have a very different philosophy.

People in the rural areas haven’t seen the world as much as the young generations and they can only rely on themselves and their work. Life has to move fast when you live in the countryside and you’re responsible for providing for yourself and your family. Working the land, raising animals, preparing for winter, tending to the crops - life has to move fast and everything needs to be planned.

Sure, people appreciate nature like their own life because without it they would not survive. But only Sundays and religious holidays are dedicated to slowing down a bit and looking at the sky or trees, or the flowers you hastily planted around.

Food for working days is simple and designed only to keep you going. You eat from old plates and keep the nice good ones for when you have guests. But no matter what you eat and how, everything on your plate would have come from the garden and the farm, from meat to spring onions to cherries.

This is an irreplaceable pleasure and delight.

Lucreţia, proud of her prosphoron.

A prosphoron is a loaf of unleavened bread used as an offering in Orthodox Christian and Greek Catholic liturgies.

It is usually made out of two separate pieces of dough placed next to each other and baked together to form a single loaf representing the two natures of Christ: human and divine.

I remember growing up in the countryside and in the middle of the summer when we would have to stack the hay on some land far away from home, our lunch would consist of boiled eggs, smoked pork fat, bread, tomatoes, cucumbers and onion. It was hands down the best lunch. When you’re eating in nature, the food tastes even better than it would at home. It might sound strange, but it’s true.

In Agrieșel, a village in Transylvania of around 200 people, most of the population is over 50 years old. The young generation left for better career opportunities and lifestyle abroad or in big cities. The parents and grandparents are old but haven’t given up on their land. They cannot imagine themselves doing anything else or moving away. They strive to work as much as they did when they were young because they cannot fathom the thought of leaving their beloved land to waste.

It is a village in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by forest and with a view of the Țibleș Mountains – a place where time flows differently and where your parents and neighbours cannot wait to see you again when you take a break from following your dreams. This is the village where my mother, Lucreția, grew up and made the most amazing food for us to enjoy. Whenever I go home, she always asks what to cook for me. She loves traditions but is a great conversation partner about the newness in the world. She also tells wonderful stories and loves a good joke.

Today, I’m sharing some of my favourite recipes from her.

I hope you enjoy them.

40

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

T&F TRAVEL & CUISINE

“When you’re eating in nature, the food tastes even better than it would at home.”

42

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

TRAVEL & CUISINE T&F

Savoury cheese pie “The savoury cheese pie is a very popular dish in the countryside. It’s easy to cook and easy to pack for a snack away from home. It is delicious both hot or cold and it goes perfectly with a cup of fresh milk or with fresh cream.”

FOR THE DOUGH

500gr all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon dry yeast 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon oil FOR THE FILLING

300g sheep’s cheese (you can use sheep’s feta cheese or another similar cheese) 1 small bunch of dill 4-5 spring spring onions (only the green tops) vegetable oil for frying

1. To make the dough, follow the same

steps as for the Easter cake recipe.

2. Finely chop the dill and the spring onion tops. Crumble the cheese into the mixture and stir everything together.

3. Place a ball of dough on a flat, clean surface sprinkled with some flour and roll it into a thin circle.

4. Place 2-3 tablespoons of cheese filling in the middle of the dough, bring together all the sides of the circle to the middle and press them together lightly to seal. Roll over the filled dough again to flatten and expand it.

5. Heat a non-stick pan and

add some vegetable oil. Fry the pie for 2-3 minutes on each side until golden in colour.

6. Repeat with the rest of the pies.

Alternatively, you can roll out and fill all the pies in one batch before you start frying them.

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

43

T&F TRAVEL & CUISINE

Chicken soup with semolina dumplings

“This is one of the best comfort foods you’ll find. It is perfect when you’re feeling under the weather and it is a favourite for any guest.”

FOR THE SOUP

1kg chicken (you can use necks, wings, back bone with skin on) 3 carrots 2 parsley roots or parsnip 1 celeriac 2 medium onions pepper salt FOR THE DUMPLINGS

2 eggs 140g semolina 1 pinch of salt

1. Place the chicken in

a 5l pot. Add 3l of cold water and 2 teaspoons of salt and start heating the water at low temperature.

When the water is about to start boiling, remove the excess foam that forms at the top. This will help you achieve a clear soup.

2. After the soup has boiled for about 40 minutes at very low temperature, add the 2 onions (whole), carrots (whole or cut as preferred), parsley root, celeriac, and pepper. Boil the soup for another 30 minutes.

3. When everything has cooked, remove the pot from the heat and remove all the vegetables and meat

44

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

from the soup. For a very clear soup, you can strain it to remove any small pieces of chicken and vegetables.

The carrot and any nice piece of chicken can be then returned to the pot after the dumplings have been added. Meanwhile, let the soup simmer at a low temperature while you make the dumplings.

4. For the semolina dumplings, beat 2 eggs with a fork and slowly add the semolina while constantly mixing. At the end, add a pinch of salt and mix it in. Let everything settle for 10 minutes. The consistency of the mix will change as the semolina will start absorbing the egg.

5. With the soup simmering

on low heat, take a tablespoon and dip it in the pot. You can now start forming your dumplings by using the side of the tablespoon. One dumpling shouldn’t require more than 1/3 of a spoon because they will more than double in size once boiled. Place all dumplings in the soup and let them boil for 7-10 minutes. When the dumplins are ready, they will all rise to the top.

6. You can now put back

the carrot and chicken and that’s it. When serving, add freshly cut parsley.

A UNIQUE DINING EXPERIENCE WITH A ‘FIELD-TO-FORK’ APPROACH USING L O C A L L Y- S O U R C E D INGREDIENTS

21, Church Street, St Paul's Bay, Malta experience@tarragonmalta.com • +356 77711161 www.tarragonmalta.com

T&F TRAVEL & CUISINE

Lettuce soup

“This soup was probably my favourite one while I was growing up. It was often on our tables in spring when the fresh lettuce is the best. It can be served hot or cold.”

FOR THE SOUP

2 lettuce heads (Batavia lettuce is ideal, but any variety would do) 3 small spring onions 2 small green garlic (these can be replaced with 2 cloves of garlic) 2 tablespoons chopped dill 500ml milk 600g yoghurt (the more sour, the better) 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon pepper lemon juice (optional) FOR THE THICKENER

1 tablespoon oil or 150g of bacon or smoked pork fat cut into small slices 1 spring onion (optional) 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 200g yoghurt or fresh cream (or a 50/50mixture of the two)

46

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

1. Wash and chop the lettuce, but

5. Mix in 2 tablespoons of flour and

2. In a medium pot, add the milk, yoghurt, and chopped greens. Add salt and pepper.

6. Add the thickener mixture

not too finely. Chop the spring onion, green garlic and the dill.

3. Mix everything together and place the pot over medium heat. Bring the pot to a boil and let it cook uncovered for 10-15 minutes.

4. In a separate pot or frying pan, add the oil or smoked pork fat. If you use pork fat or bacon, fry it until golden, then remove it from the pan.

continue stirring until golden-brown.

Add the yoghurt and let it simmer for 5 minutes, stirring often.

to the soup and let it boil for another 2 minutes.

7. Serve this hot or cold and sprinkle the fried, smoked pork fat or bacon on top. Add lemon juice if you prefer a more sour taste.

TRAVEL & CUISINE T&F

“The parents and grandparents are old but haven’t given up on their land.

They cannot imagine themselves doing anything else or moving away.”

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

47

T&F DESSERT

SICILIAN CANNOLI Originally a treat made during Carnival, cannoli are now made, and enjoyed, all year round.

Food and photography: Mandy Mallia Makes 16 cannoli shells.

YOU WILL NEED

125g all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened ¾ tablespoon cocoa 2 teaspoons ground coffee 6 tablespoons Marsala 1 ½ tablespoons dry white wine 1 tablespoon sugar 1 egg white, beaten vegetable oil (for frying) salt

1. Put the cocoa powder, coffee,

flour, and sugar in a large mixing bowl and add a pinch of salt.

2. Chop the butter into small pieces and rub it into the dry ingredients. Add the Marsala and white wine and stir until all the ingredients are combined.

48

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

The name cannoli derives from canna, a reference to the freshwater cane that was once used to fashion moulds to make the pastry shells. As with many Sicilian sweets, the recipe for cannoli is rooted in Saracen times, when Arab rule brought sugar and almonds into the culinary landscape. To make the shells, you will need cannoli moulds – hollow metal tubes that are available from good kitchen shops. The shells will remain fresh and crispy for up to a week, if properly stored. The filling can be prepared a day ahead, but the shells should only be filled just before serving or they will lose their characteristic crispness.

3. Knead the mixture into a smooth dough. You will need to do this for around 10 minutes so that the pastry shells will bubble up nicely as they cook.

4. Wrap the dough and let it rest in the fridge for a couple of hours.

Next, roll it out and cut out 16 10cm circles and shape them into ovals.

5. Wrap each piece of dough around

a cannoli mould, making sure the edges overlap. Use a dab of beaten egg white to help seal the edges. The pastry should be slightly loose so that it can cook properly on the inside.

6. Heat the oil to 180°C and deep

fry the shells in batches for a couple of minutes at a time. Use a slotted spoon to lift them out of the oil, then let them drain on absorbent paper. Set them aside to cool down completely and store them in an airtight container until needed.

FOR THE FILLING

750g ricotta 275g granulated sugar a drop of vanilla essence a handful of crushed roasted almonds some icing sugar, for sprinkling

1. Drain the ricotta and place it in a

large mixing bowl. Add the granulated sugar and vanilla essence and mix until well combined. Cover the bowl and let it stand in the fridge for around two hours until the sugar has dissolved.

2. Run the ricotta mixture through a fine mesh sieve, then keep it chilled until needed.

Fill the cannoli shells just before serving. Use a piping bag or teaspoon to fill each shell with the prepared ricotta and dip each end into the crushed, roasted almonds.

3. Stack the cannoli on a serving dish, sprinkle with icing sugar, and serve at once.

Mawitdh e n o i s s a P

check out ge our full ran in-store

from our Assortment

Bon Gelati

Ice Cream Sticks Almond

Big on Quality, Lidl on Price

504g pack

3.

79 1kg = € 7.52

T&F RESTORATION

HOME F R O M HOME

An old townhouse in a walled city gets a new lease of life as an extended family home Architecture: Simon Grech, Elisa Grech, Andrea Zerafa, Mark Vella - MODEL Photography: Alex Attard

50

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

RESTORATION T&F

Following the line of the original stepped roof, the contemporary extension integrates a small plunge pool – a favourite spot for the families’ children. The hardstone was supplied and laid by Halmann Vella, who also supplied the traditional tiles in the bedrooms.

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

51

T&F RESTORATION

T

he townhouse sits on a gentle slope, just up the road from a public garden in one of the Grand Harbour’s walled cities. It seems to greet you as you turn around the corner off the street that runs along the fortified city wall, its green doors on the ground floor framed by a blush of peachy tones.

The house had sat shuttered and unlived in for several decades until it was discovered by two sisters in search of a home from home. Both had grown up in Malta and now live elsewhere with their young families. They wanted a place they could occasionally come back to – a holiday home where family memories could be made and where their children could spend time with their grandparents.

“We want our children to spend time here so that Malta feels like another place they can call home,” one of the sisters says. “We are really lucky to have been able to do that while they are still young.”

At first, they looked at properties in Valletta but eventually settled on restoring and extending a house in a city across the harbour: “Senglea still feels like a Maltese village. It’s different from Valletta and has a strong sense of identity. All the elderly people sit outside on the same bench every day.

Our children can go to the gardens and play there. I love getting the ferry to Valletta and, if we are here for a week, we can potter around the neighbourhood and walk to Birgu.

We really enjoy discovering the three cities. We do not always need to drive somewhere. There are nice cafés and a bakery, and there’s the science museum.

52

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

They proposed extending the house upwards with a contemporary intervention that respects the house’s history and existing context

RESTORATION T&F

The stepped structure of the original roof has been transformed into the floor of a large, open plan kitchen, living, and dining area. The parquet flooring is by Joinwell, ESS supplied the light fittings.

Air conditioning is by Cutrico.

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

53

T&F RESTORATION

“W

e wanted something that had history and character and to which we could give a new lease of life. We saw several properties before we found this one,” she adds.

“It was derelict and needed a lot of work.” “We knew we wanted an old property and to preserve and restore as much of it as possible. This house belonged to several owners and had been in the same family since it was built,” her husband says. “For all of us, it was important to preserve that history and we’ve preserved as much of the house itself as we could.”

Following negotiations and a settled sale, the project could begin. With lots to be done, the new owners were fortunate to have an architect as a friend and family support on hand in Malta. The sisters’ dad understands the building trade and stepped into the role of full-time project manager, and both parents got involved in the painstaking work of stripping away layers of paint from the house’s interior.

Though the double-fronted house was spread over two floors and a basement, it didn’t offer enough space for two families to live there together, so the architects at MODEL set out to investigate how to realise the design brief. They proposed extending the house upwards with a contemporary intervention that respects the house’s history and existing context, leaving the existing fabric of the house practically undisturbed save for the installation of a lift and an additional floor.

“Early mornings and evenings here are really nice”

54

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

Unlimited options on wooden flooring Sustainable Healthy Living: over 90% organic

Joinwell Mill Street, Qormi +356 2278 2000 info@joinwell.com.mt www.joinwell.com.mt

T&F RESTORATION

a concrete design element that references Carlo Scarpa sculpts the outdoor space into an internal yard with builtin seating

56

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

RESTORATION T&F

T

he house was stripped back to its original form, with all later additions removed, while conserving as much as possible of the original building. The iron railings and wooden apertures were retained, stripped and repainted, the derelict closed wooden balcony replaced with a replica, and the flooring retained wherever possible. “The only tiles we replaced were beyond repair,” says one of the sisters. “Simon [Grech]’s expertise was invaluable because he could see what was part of the original structure and what was not. “We wanted a blend of old and new, to include modern elements but in a complementary way,” her husband says.

Straight away, the families decided to invert the layout of the house. The bedrooms and library/cinema room are on the ground and first floors, and the kitchen, living, and dining areas are in the extension. The well-ventilated basement is a shared playroom, with the added curiosity of a glass-topped channel set into the floor through which rainwater that is collected from the roof flows into a well. The common living spaces – kitchen, living room, dining area, and spare bathroom – are accommodated in the rooftop extension.

The inverted arrangement works in multiple ways. While the living area on the top floor is flooded with light, the bedrooms on the lower floors are comfortably lit. One large bedroom on the ground floor is equipped with bunk beds for the two families’ children, and, in each of the main bedrooms, the far end has been sectioned off into a private bathroom.

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

57

T&F RESTORATION

T

he stepped structure of the original roof has been transformed into the floor of a large, open plan kitchen, living, and dining area. “One early proposal was to have an indoor/outdoor kitchen and dining area,” one of the sisters says. “It was amazing design but it just would not work for a big family with children.” So the architects went back to the proverbial drawing board and came up with a different plan.

The split level of the original roof physically separates the kitchen from the living and dining area while leaving them visually connected. Along the dividing line between the two levels, a low, deep storage unit that runs the length of the room doubles up as a safety barrier. The spare bathroom is tucked away behind the kitchen on the lower level, its ‘secret’ door disguised as part of the run of kitchen cupboards.

Beyond the indoor living and dining area, a concrete design element that references Carlo Scarpa sculpts the outdoor space into an internal yard with built-in seating and provides access to the new roof. The concrete was cast using a method that creates a wood vein imprint. An outdoor window to the side of the internal yard can be kept closed for privacy or opened onto a view of the street to create, in the architects’ words, “another level of planned dialogue with its context”.

58

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

LET YOUR STYLE BE YOUR GUIDE

T&F RESTORATION

“We needed to put in the basics so we can stay here, and we’ll add layers over time to give the house a lived-in feel”

T

hanks to the large glass doors that leads from the dining area to the yard, there is a strong visual link between the interior and exterior. In warm weather, the doors can be drawn back, extending the circulation and seating space.

Following the line of the original stepped roof, the roof of the contemporary extension integrates a small plunge pool – a favourite spot for the families’ children. “Early mornings and evenings here are really nice,” one of the parents says. “The kids love to play upstairs on the roof terrace and it’s a good place for entertaining.”

As you move up from the lower level to the rooftop, the style throughout feels harmonious, sympathetic to the original architecture but integrating modern extensions. Overall, the work took 6 years, interrupted by Brexit and the pandemic.

Some things went wrong and had to be redone, and the initial budget was, in one of the owner’s words, thrown out of the window: “It’s been a lot of anguish and work, but a lot of fun. We needed to put in the basics so we can stay here, and we’ll add layers over time to give the house a lived-in feel. We all stayed here together last summer for the first time and it was really joyous. It’s been a labour of love and absolutely worth it.” n

60

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

T&F TRANSFORMATION

COLOUR AND LIGHT A 17th century stable block with garden views redesigned as a rental property Interior Architecture & Furniture Design: Wioletta Kulewska / VK Design Studio Marble, custom architectural terrazzo, ceramic tiles, and hardstone: Halmann Vella Photography: Alex Attard

62

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

TRANSFORMATION T&F

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

63

T&F TRANSFORMATION

R

ental property owners are often advised to decorate an interior in neutral colours. Their neutrality means they do not provoke strong reactions, allowing prospective tenants to freely project their own memories and aspirations onto the interior.

This makes them feel at home and encourages them to move in. Or so the thinking goes.

Yet, when Wioletta Kulewska was asked to design the interior of a 17th century building that the owners wanted to rent out, she was pleasantly surprised that they wanted her to use colour. “I have been a designer in Malta for 12 years,” she says. “It is difficult to use colour in a project as many people prefer neutrals, like greys.”

The building she was asked to design is a stable block annexed to what was originally a country house that was built in the 17th century and is currently undergoing restoration. The stables building is simple and ‘flat’ – roughly one room deep – and is annexed to the main house, but has its own door leading directly onto the street. The property overlooks the main residence’s lush garden and swimming pool. It was this setting that inspired Wioletta Kulewska’s design approach.

The property overlooks the main residence’s lush garden and swimming pool.

64

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

Surfacing the most beautiful spaces

A variety of marble, custom architectural terrazzo, ceramic tiles and hardstone provided and installed by us.

Leading provider of natural stone products and a wide spectrum of related services. Vast selection of marble, granite, travertine, onyx, quartzite, hardstone, composite stone, exposed aggregate, porfido, quartz and ceramic.

Halmann Vella Ltd, Mosta Road, Lija.

T: (+356) 21 433 636 E: info@halmannvella.com

www.halmannvella.com

DESIGNED BY VIOLET KULEWSK A AT VK DESIGN STUDIO

T&F TRANSFORMATION

“I wanted to bring the garden inside”

66

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

TRANSFORMATION T&F

T

he basic structure of the building was already in place when she took on the commission, “so I worked with the existing layout,” she says. That consists of a spacious living room with a large door leading onto the garden, a dining area and kitchen, and three bedrooms and bathrooms on the upper level. She developed the colour palette for the interior, picked out and designed materials for the flooring, designed the stair railing and some of the furniture, had other furniture pieces restored and repainted, and designed the internal doors and apertures. But it all began in the garden. “I wanted to bring the garden inside,” she says. “Visually, there is no division between the interior and the exterior. You can see it from every room.”

Armed with a camera, she sought inspiration among the plants and flowers, taking photographs and collecting samples which she then used as a natural mood board to help her select colours for the interior. Inevitably, green dominates in the garden, but there are also flashes of intense colour like the pink of the bougainvillea.

“I chose a colour palette based on what I saw,” she says.

“There are shades of yellow and pastel green, pink, and beige, and shades of ochre and natural browns.” Some of these colours were worked into the custom-made terrazzo tiles of the flooring on the upper level – ochre, brown, and pale yellow marble chips set into a pastel green base.

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

67

T&F TRANSFORMATION

“T

he base colour of the terrazzo tiling was customised for this project,” Wioletta says. “We chose it because it complements the greenery of the garden, which is visible from every room. The owners agreed with the idea, and understood that the purpose was to bring a sense of the outdoors inside.” House plants dotted around the interior complement the overall effect.

“Many of the furniture pieces are custom-made and other pieces were restored,” Wioletta says. “The dining table, for instance, just needed repainting but the wardrobes are customised for each bedroom and designed to complement each other.”

68

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

Because you give your dreams the love you deserve.

Experience now the drēmər® bed at your nearest Hästens store.

HASTENS.COM

HÄSTENS STORE | Msida Valley Road Msida Malta | hastens@form.com.mt | 21446000

T&F TRANSFORMATION

I

n the small guest bathroom tucked under the stairs, sunflower yellow brightens up the walls, mediating between the rough rawness of the stone underside of the stairs and the cool, smooth white marble floor. Other colours were applied to the property’s interior walls and mouldings and to the internal and external doors and window frames. The indoor flooring on ground level is hardstone to complement the main house. The material flows out into the outdoor area, blurring the division between inside and out.

The overall effect of the design is light and airy with just the right touch of colour. There are no bland neutrals or greys – and that’s not a bad thing. n

The building is a stable block annexed to a country house built in the 17th century

70

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

T&F INTERIOR DESIGN

This contemporary interior, filled with bespoke furniture and fun elements, is perfect for entertaining Design: camilleriparismode project studio Photography: Brian Grech

CONV 72

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

INTERIOR DESIGN T&F

I V IL I A L VING ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

73

T&F INTERIOR DESIGN

74

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

INTERIOR DESIGN T&F

W

hen a young couple wanted to finish off their home, they brought in expert help. The context architecture of their house was there and some of the flooring was already in place. From there on, the design project was open. Enter camilleriparismode projects studio’s designers, who planned and delivered a contemporary interior filled with fun elements, gorgeous fabrics, stylish detailing, and a stunning bespoke staircase.

The staircase, a light structure in metal, timber and glass, rises above the wood-clad concrete base at the ground level. Measured precisely and custommade in Italy, it is perfectly fitted.

That sounds simple, but took careful planning. The individual elements were designed and custom-made in sequence, each measured carefully to

fit. In the end, “it just slid into place,” says Silvia Buriani, co-founder and senior architect at camilleriparismode projects studio.

The stair treads are in a solid wood parquet with an ingenious design. Each section is composed of segments laid out so that the wood vein in each part points in a different direction. As a material for flooring, it is undemanding, fitting around uneven walls without visual disruption. As stair treads, the effect is fascinating. From above, the staircase appears to be a solid mass. Seen at an oblique angle, it is light and open and the parquet treads appear to float, bounded only by the glass and timber railing. “One of the most difficult things to design is a railing,” Silvia says. This one works beautifully – its simple lines

complement the lightness of the structure.

The aesthetic of the bespoke structure flowed from a process of interpreting the home owners’ ideas and way of living into a personalised interior design concept. “We ask lots of questions to get to know what the clients expect and need. For instance, do you like to cook or do you want a showcase kitchen?” Silvia says.

Continuous communication with clients was key to the design process: “Our clients came to us because they know our work and like our style. They knew what they wanted but not how to achieve it and they knew we could help them.” Long conversations with the home owners evolved into a design concept that fits their lifestyle like the proverbial glove.

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

75

T&F INTERIOR DESIGN

W

hile in many homes, the living area is usually cut off from the main flow, here, the fun begins immediately you step through the front door. “The owners wanted something bold, but elegant and interesting and that is not over-designed,” Silvia says.

The result is a living space that can be enjoyed from breakfast to late night drinks, with a fully equipped bespoke bar. The dominant piece of loose furniture is a sofa in dark green velvet that looks as good from the back as it does from the front. “We chose a sofa on feet,” Silvia says. “With a large one, you need an element of lightness. And, anyway, covering parquet is a ‘crime’.”

Both the bar and the complementary TV unit are in grooved wood paneling and topped with Sahara Noir marble, shot through with white veins and the occasional flash of kintsugi-like gold veining. “We wanted the ribbed wood to be the star of the design,” says Miguel Calleja, a member of the design team, “for the marble to be there but to not take over the visual impact.”

To achieve that effect the bar top is chamfered, making it appear thinner and lighter than it really is, and the top of the TV unit is inset so that it is all but invisible when seen from the front. The wood is oak, one of the most versatile to use for carpentry as unlike, say, walnut, its veining doesn’t restrict the way the wood can be cut.

“Simple contemporary furniture needs to have lots of details and careful proportion because otherwise the pieces could look boring,” Silvia says. In contrast to the bar, the TV unit is set on sleek discreet feet and appears to float, its three doors ingeniously disguised so that the front appears uniform. Behind the bar, wallpaper with a metallic accent acts as a foil to a modular library unit that doubles up as a storage and display space for drinks and glassware.

76

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

T&F INTERIOR DESIGN

T

he area around the corner from the kitchen includes a dining area dominated by a round table to soften the awkward angles of the room caused by the irregularly-shaped plot.

A pendant light in an intriguing design hangs overhead. On the dining chair handles, the warmth of walnut wood balances the coldness of the existing architecture.

The area is flooded with natural light from the large doors opening onto the pool area, a feature that is great for design but which could make a place look clinical. Colour, pattern, and soft furnishings have been employed to soften the look - a curtain in sage green linen gathered in soft waves runs the full length of the space, echoing the wall length curtain in the bar-cumliving room.

It all makes for pleasant everyday living and a convivial atmosphere when entertaining. As Silvia says, “Our clients tell us that they really struggle to get people to move from the living room to the kitchen. That’s how we know our design has succeeded.” n

78

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

T&F TRENDS

p A selection of four different rocks from the for corners of the world! Stone Box by Novabell Ceramiche is NEW collection of Porcelain stoneware developed for outdoor use. Available in various sizes to accentuate patterns and colours. Exclusively from Satariano, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara.

p Tolomeo Outdoor by Artemide. The Tolomeo Outdoor is a beautiful outdoor fitting that resembles that old lamppost aesthetic. Tolomeo demonstrates Artemide’s uniqueness: its design skills, technology, and care for people and the environment are all shown through a product that, even after 30 years, can still light up the future with the same impact. The famous lamp comes in floor, hanging, and hook versions, all of which are made of and finished with outdoor-friendly materials. Exclusively available at Elektra Ltd, Mill Street, Qormi. www.elektra.com.mt

p Isis has a brilliant, straw-yellow colour with a pale green rim; a fresh, complex bouquet of grapefruit and other exotic white fruits with gentle floral notes; and a wellstructured, citrus taste with a long, pleasantly acidic aftertaste. This wine pairs well with grilled fish and seafood and white meats such as chicken and rabbit. For information about Meridiana Wine Estate’s full range of wines www.meridiana.com.mt or find us on Facebook. Trade Enquiries: S. Rausi Trading, Stadium Street, Gzira. www.srausi.com

The next issue will be out in September with The Malta Independent on Sunday.

80

ISSUE 148 JULY 2022

For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt

GOOD TASTE GETS NOTICED

LONDONESSENCECO.COM

Purest flavour from distilled botanicals ENJOYED IN THE WORLD’S BEST BARS For trade enquiries contact FBIC on 2381 4400