Taste&Flair Nov 2020

ISSUE 134 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

NOVEMBER 2020

Feed your imagination FOOD 路 DRINK 路 INTERIOR DESIGN 路 ART 路 ARCHITECTURE

Hulsta month: Attractive anniversary oers Till end November

Joinwell Mill Street, Qormi +356 2278 2000 info@joinwell.com.mt www.joinwell.com.mt

T&F EDITORIAL Claire Borg’s poppyseed & raspberry micro pancakes.

See feature starting on page 41. Photograph: Claire Borg

Welcome N

ovember is an in-between sort of time – no longer summer, not quite winter, not yet Christmastime. That makes it a good time for cocooning and taking stock of our surroundings, and enjoying some comfort food. In this issue of Taste&Flair, Ryan Vella and Edward Diacono serve up warming dishes, perfect for this time of year. Take your pick from family favourites, Middle-Eastern classics, or fresh ways with familiar flavours. Claire Borg whips up breakfast recipes so colourful and tempting that you won’t want to miss out, no matter how busy or rushed you are at the start of the day. Ramona and Roberta Preca turn their creative talent to food that looks good whether served at a formal dinner or at home in your kitchen. And Amy Mallia’s triple-layer chocolate cake makes any day feel that much better. On the design front, we take a look inside a centuryold townhouse brought up to date and a 1970s flat revamped and personalised for 21st century living. Megan Mallia wraps up this month’s issue with a capsule history of Olea Europaea. We’ll be back on 6th December with the Christmas issue of Taste&Flair.

If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher.

Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*.

The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

“Liquid gold” was one of the three prime foods in the ancient Western world. See page 96.

8

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

Follow Taste&Flair on

T&F CONTENTS

p12

p22

p41

CONTENTS

22

Cosy comfort food

by Ryan Vella and Edward Diacono

36

Teatime treat Amy Mallia’s chocolate layer cake

41

p56

Breakfast for busy days Claire Borg’s tempting recipes

57

Delightful dining Ramona and Roberta Preca’s celebration of cooking

72

Squash and pomegranate A light supper with seasonal produce

74

A taste of the times Andrew Azzopardi on global warming and the wine industry

p76 10

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

76

At home in Gharghur Kco Design transforms a traditional house

84

Pied-à-terre Forward Architects’ contemporary interior

96

Olea Europaea “The Mediterranean ends where the olive ceases to grow”

Look good, feel great

AESTHETIC SERVICES at Remedies Clinic SPECIAL PACKAGE OFFERS FOR THE MONTH OF NOVEMBER YOUTHFUL GLOW PACKAGE: Laser Rejuvenation, Derma-Roller, Skin Booster - only €350

Laser Rejuvenation, Derma-Roller, Botox - only €350

LUXE IT UP PACKAGE: Botox & Skin Boosters - from €150

Laser Rejuvenation, Derma-Roller, Skin Booster, Botox - only €550

Jett Plasma - from €150

VEIN PACKAGE:

Dermal Fillers - from €250

3 Sessions with

PRP - from €250

10% Discount

FREE CONSULTATION WITH OUR AESTHETIC DOCTOR BY APPOINTMENT, CALL ON

CLINIC - B’KARA

2397 6600 Remedies Clinic B’Kara Level 1, St Helena Buildings, Triq Tumas Fenech, B’Kara T: 2397 6600

T&F FRESH

Rice with spinach and poached egg The poached egg on top makes this easy and flavourful rice dish with pine nuts and raisins more special.

Serves 4 240g rice 4 medium eggs 2 cloves garlic 1 small onion 200g spinach 100g streaky bacon 25g pine nuts 25g raisins a dash of extravirgin olive oil

1. Weigh out the rice and then pour it into

a measuring jug and note the volume. Pour double that volume of water into a pan and bring it to a boil. Add the rice, cover the pan, and let it simmer for about 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and put it aside.

2. Heat 2 litres of water in a pan with a dash of vinegar and salt. When it comes to the boil, use a skimmer to make an eddy in the centre of the pan and crack an egg into it.

Cook the egg for 2 to 3 minutes and then carefully remove it using the skimmer. Repeat the process with the other three eggs.

3. Gently fry the onion and garlic in a pan with a dash of extra-virgin olive oil until golden brown. Add the bacon and cook it for a couple of minutes over a medium heat.

Add the spinach, salt and pepper and let the mixture cook for a few more minutes.

4. Add the rice to the frying pan, followed by the pine nuts and raisins and stir. Cook for a few more minutes over a low heat to bind all the flavours together.

5. Serve as 4 individual portions

with a poached egg on top.

12

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

BLU MODE ON

23561000 info.goldensands@rdbmalta.com Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Golden Sands

T&F GIFTS

Delectable

gifts Get a head start on Christmas presents with some stylish ideas for every budget.

u Christmas Toys Memories Santa’s Sleigh-Ride by Villeroy & Boch. These partially hand-painted gems from Christmas Toys Memory are reminiscent of childhood when Father Christmas used to deliver toys. This beautiful festive decoration consists of reindeer pulling Santa’s sleigh while small candles on the animals’ backs create a cosy light. The music box plays “Santa Claus is Coming to Town”.

Discover Christmas through the eyes of a child and visit Joinwell Christmas shop this year.

t If you are looking for the one place on the island where you can find all your festive must-haves, head straight to DICAL HOUSE and feast your eyes on an extensive selection of gifts and hampers. All hampers can ALSO be customised according to your taste and budget to ensure yours is unique across the island. Dical House brings you the finest food products from around the world. With hundreds of gourmet items to choose from, your difficulty will be in what to leave out rather than what to choose. Corporate clients are invited to set a personalised meeting requested via email.

Whatever the case, don’t forget a gift to self.

Dical House is in Triq San Anton Abbati. Easy to find also on google maps. T: 21424600/1.

E: foods@dicalgroup.com. www.dicalhouse.com

p Christmas is around the corner and Dical House is as always well stocked to meet all your gifting requirements. Our large Cellar houses more than 400 labels of wines and an extensive selection of spirits, some of which are quite difficult to find.

Various cool accessories for the perfect cocktails are available too. For packaging, choose from wicker baskets or Signature Dical House gift boxes. Dical House is open all day every day during the festive season and is at Triq San Anton Abbati.

T: 21424600/1. E: foods@dicalgroup.com. www.dicalhouse.com. Delivery of hampers is also possible. Covid-19 measures are in place at Dical House.

16

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

p Côte Noire is a brand of beautiful life-like flowers, infused with luxurious scents of perfume. All scented flowers are intricately hand crafted and each flower arrangement comes with its own spray that mimics the scent of the flower itself, making it not only realistic to the eyes, but to your other senses as well. Côte Noire flowers are all wrapped up and prepared in a gorgeous gift box too.

Shop online: www.greyandadler.com/cotenoire or visit Grey & Adler at their boutique in Naxxar.

GIFTS T&F

p With over 100 years of experience, Lagostina brings you the SFIZIOSA line, a 24-piece set that is a combination of elegance and functionality. The three-layer LAGOSEAL® PLUS encapsulated base (steel - aluminum - steel) is suitable for any hob and promotes perfect heat diffusion, minimising the risk of food sticking. Sfiziosa comes with a 10-year warranty on stainless steel parts against material and manufacturing defects. Visit Oxford House in Triq L-Imdina, Birkirkara to add some Italian flair to your kitchen, for only €399.

Picture Frames. Who doesn’t love picture frames? To us they’re the perfect way to showcase your favorite photos and - why not? - also your favorite quotes. They add dimension and layers to a space.

You don’t need to fill every surface with picture frames, just display your cherished memories. Shop online: www.greyandadler.com/ pictureframes or visit Grey & Adler at their boutique in Naxxar.

Valet Trays.

A perfect catchall tray for any gentlemen’s accessories, trinkets and coins. Made from the finest of leathers, each valet tray is smart enough to be displayed or would make a perfect drawer organiser. Shop online: www.greyandadler.com/ jewellerycases or visit Grey & Adler at their boutique in Naxxar.

p Choose SAVINA Hampers this Christmas. Savina boasts a new selection of hampers with prices ranging from €25 to €275 to suit every occasion, all designed to leave a lasting impression on your lucky friends and loved ones. Make use of Savina’s free packaging and delivery services. Should you require assistance on orders, have any queries on products or would like us to send you a hard copy of our brochure, please do contact us. A member of the Savina Staff will always be ready to assist you. Savina’s direct line: 2156 2236, mobile: 7956 2236, info@savina.com.mt, www.savina.com.mt

p Laurel velvet Armchair by Riviéra Maison. A crossover between a stylish cocktail chair and a comfortable armchair with a floating-effect backrest.

Upholstered in velvet with a characteristic grain that changes colour depending on the light. The legs are made of black rubberwood with luxurious soft golden ends. Coming this November at Joinwell, just in time for the festive season.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

17

T&F PROMOTION

Up your home game this Christmas with Joinwell’s iconic brands Villeroy&Boch and Rivièra Maison’s cool Christmas offerings.

A

ll over the globe, the Christmas season is typically associated with a flurry of activities such as gift buying, planning trips, perfecting the Christmas lunch, and warming up with mulled wine. From ticking off endless lists to preparing multiple outfits for different social occasions, this period usually ends up being jam-packed. This year, however, presents an anomalous type of celebration.

Navigating our way around a global health pandemic is no mean feat, especially when it comes to organising the aforementioned events, and much more. While the virus situation has put a dent in the staging of the usual events held outside the home, such as staff parties, this does not necessarily mean that the Christmas spirit has to be dampened. On the contrary, the home can generate more than enough warmth and comfort to make it a Christmas to remember as much as the year to forget. So why not invest into the one space that can offer us respite after a day’s work and more than a year’s worth of stress?

18

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

Enter Joinwell, a brand not only known for injecting style and class to our homes, but also for embracing family values. The Joinwell team have put in an extra effort this year to create a new concept in the home with colour-themed Christmas decorations, and special pieces that reflect heritage, tradition, and elegance. The shopping experience itself is enhanced and rendered unique thanks to two eclectic brands: the well-known, classic brand Villeroy&Boch, complemented by the burgeoning, vintage-inspired brand Riviera Maison.

At Joinwell, at Qormi or online, you are invited to discover the magical Christmas world of Villeroy&Boch (V&B) in the shape of the Christmas tableware collections. Made from the finest porcelain, which is popular with collectors and aficionados of this elite material, the items from the Annual Edition are painted with ever-changing Christmas motifs and available either as individual pieces or as part of a complete set. This is why V&B pieces are also extremely popular as gifts to loved ones.

PROMOTION T&F

With pieces from Villeroy&Boch, you can set the ideal festive table adorned with Christmas crockery and refined cutlery. Your guests will be inspired and welcomed to the most harmonious atmosphere: a divine marriage of fine and tasteful sophistication. As a host, the elaborate details in the pieces from the collections will imbue you with sparks of imagination, so give free rein to it: opt for a nostalgic, classic, or contemporary touch to your festive table, which can be accomplished through matching pieces, and complemented with Christmas napkins and figurines, as well as with playful tea light holders. Impress and be impressed by our decorative items, such as the étagère, which doubles up as a holder of small treats.

The dining room is not, however, the only place in the home where the Christmas spirit can flourish; the living room is second to none when it comes to adorning the home. First off, we cannot but mention the ubiquitous Christmas tree, and pieces from Villeroy&Boch will guarantee the flawless result of a pictorial tree. Brighten up with classic bauble and hanging ornaments, or surprise with more modern, perhaps unusual Christmas items. In either case, allow yourself and your loved ones to experience the magic.

Apart from the quintessential Christmas tree, the nativity scene also usually takes centre-stage. Create a ‘presepju’ with Villerory&Boch’s porcelain nativity figurines and allow yourself the luxury of spending time gazing at the story that has shaped our childhood dreams.

Rivièra Maison is very popular for its furniture pieces and decorations which are hand made from recyclable material.

This brand is not only highly attractive to a younger audience, but it also offers a number of gifting ideas varying from tables to mirrors, from clocks to frames, and much more. Also, watch out for the mouth-blown glass accessories making them beautiful and unique.

So do come over to our large and spacious showroom to see for yourself the vast choice of beautiful Christmas decorations and gifts and homeware. Or you can visit our online shop: joinwell.com.mt. We provide free delivery to Malta and Gozo as well as a gift-wrapping service. n

Our showroom provides ample parking space and while inside you will find that we are taking all possible precautions to resist the spread of the COVID-19 virus while spreading tonnes of Christmas cheer.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

19

T&F PROMOTION

Malta’s First

20

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

PROMOTION T&F

F

or the first time in Maltese wine-making history, Marsovin has produced a Méthode Traditionelle Brut Rosé sparkling wine. This special edition wine has been named, 101 Brut Rosé, representing the number of years since the winery was first established.

Interestingly this wine has been produced from a blend of Malta’s indigenous grape variety Ġellewża and selected Chardonnay grapes. The winery has built a tradition in optimising the use of the Ġellewża grape variety. 101 Brut Rosé is made using the traditional sparkling rosé wine-making method used in other regions around the Europe such as Champagne, Cava, Franciacorta and Trentino.

The process takes over 15 months, starting off with grapes being pressed with little or no intervention as the grapes split open under their own weight to produce top quality “free run juice”. The free run juice is fermented into a still wine and stored at low temperature in stainless steel vats to retain absolute freshness. After the first fermentation of the grape juice, a process known as the Assemblage takes place. This is the careful blending of the different base wines to form a Cuvée which gives the desired aromas and character of the wine before undergoing secondary fermentation and further ageing in the bottle.

Méthode Traditionnelle Brut Rosé In a process called Tirage, the still wine is transferred to the bottle along with a mix of yeast and sugar to be sealed off with a crown cap. This will trigger a second fermentation in the bottle which will cause naturally induced carbon dioxide.

This fermentation produces yeast sediment called lees, which is left in contact with the wine for at least 12 months to impart complex and rich aromas.

The next step is a process dating back to 1813 called riddling, done to get the sediment of dead yeast cells into the neck of the bottle by gravity, by placing the bottles on easel like stands known as Pupitres. Part of this process involves tilting each and every bottle daily for four weeks until one whole revolution is made.

On completion of riddling, the lees which are now positioned in the neck of the bottle are ready to be extracted by disgorgement. After the lees are removed a mixture called the Liqueur d’Expedition is added to each individual bottle bringing the wine to the desired style and finish which determines 101’s classification as Brut.

Each bottle is then corked and manually labeled with great attention to detail. This vintage 2018 is invitingly refreshing with a fine natural sparkle, and a complex and elegant bouquet with lingering floral and fragrant berry notes.

There is a lot to love about a refreshing glass of this wonderfully crisp Maltese 101 Brut Rosé. Not surprisingly, it can be paired well with practically anything from oysters to dessert. n 101 Brut Rosé is available for sale in all premium wine retail outlets and on www.marsovinwinery.com

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

21

T&F AUTUMN

“November is with us and we retreat to the comfort of our homes giving us more time to cook up wonderful dishes. Lamb is an ingredient that we normally associate with spring, but who cares. I love lamb at any time of the year and I asked Ryan and Edward to come up with 6 lamb dishes that also reflect this particular season.”

Michael Diacono chef patron, Giuseppi’s bar and bistro, Mezzodì, and Rubino

22

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

COSY

AUTUMN T&F

COMFORT FOOD Welcome the cooler autumn weather with warming, comfort food by Ryan Vella, head chef at MezzodĂŹ and Edward Diacono, head chef, Rubino.

Photography: Brian Grech Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

23

T&F AUTUMN

Lamb Kofte with grilled flat breads and chive yoghurt.

A super luxurious “handwich”.

Serves 6 Preparation and cooking time: 2 hours, including proving time Recommended wine: Spanish Rioja Reserva or Lebanese Cabernet Sauvignon FLATBREADS

450g bread flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 15g instant yeast 2 teaspoons sugar 150ml warm milk 30ml vegetable oil 150g plain yoghurt 1 egg, lightly beaten ½ teaspoon salt KOFTE

600g minced lamb 1 medium onion, peeled and grated 4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 handful parsley, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint 1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander 1 tablespoon ras el hanout spice mix 1 teaspoon cumin seeds salt and pepper CHIVE YOGHURT

2 cups plain yoghurt 2 tablespoon chopped fresh chives ½ teaspoon grated lemon zest chili, as much or as little as you wish TO SERVE

1 large onion, peeled and thinly sliced 2 tomatoes, thinly sliced fresh coriander salad greens pomegranate arils

1. Attach the dough hook to

your mixing machine. Sift the flour and baking powder into the bowl and add the yeast.

2. Dissolve the sugar in the warm

milk, then add the mixture to the sifted flour along with the oil, yoghurt and egg. Start mixing slowly, then add the salt. Knead the dough for 10 minutes.

3. Now, using oiled hands, shape the dough into a ball and transfer it to a large bowl. Cover the bowl with a clean cloth and leave the dough to rise for 1 hour.

24

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

4. Knock back the dough (press the dough down gently using the knuckles of your fist) to remove the air bubbles. Turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and knead it gently for a few minutes.

5. Divide the dough into 6 balls. Roll

out each one into a 30cm circle . Heat a large clean frying pan and dry grill the bread for a couple of minutes.

Large bubbles should appear on the dough’s surface. Flip the dough over and grill the other side for a minute or two until it turns golden.

6. Transfer the cooked dough

to a tray and cover it with a cloth while you grill the rest.

7. Now, place the lamb into a mixing bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix them until very well combined. Using damp hands, form the mixture into ovalshaped balls and place them on a tray. Cover the tray and place it in the fridge to rest for 1 hour.

8. Heat a grill and brush it lightly

with the extra-virgin olive oil and cook the kofte for a few minutes on each side. Do not try to turn them too early as the meat will stick. Wait until the underside is properly done and the kofte will be easy to turn without sticking. Keep the kofte warm until they’re ready to serve.

9. Prepare the yogurt by simply

mixing all the ingredients together.

10. To prepare for serving, begin by

laying a flat bread on a board. Spread it with some yoghurt, place the kofte on top, and wrap it up. Repeat with the rest of the flatbreads and kofte.

11. Serve the wrapped kofte on salad greens like rocket, mixed with fresh coriander and sprinkled with pomegranate arils.

AUTUMN T&F

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

25

T&F AUTUMN

26

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

AUTUMN T&F

Arayes

Fragrant lamb-filled pita breads. So very versatile to be served as a snack, a starter or part of a meze selection.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking time: 1 hour (not incl 2 days to make lebneh) Recommended wine: Lebanese Arak, White Bordeaux or Australian Shiraz LEBNEH

4 pots plain, full fat yoghurt ARAYES

4 large pita breads 500g minced lamb 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses 1 tablespoon cumin seeds 1 tablespoon mixed spice 1 tablespoon ground cardamom 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 handful of parsley, chopped salt and pepper olive oil to brush harissa to serve

1. First, make the lebneh. You will need to make this two days ahead of serving. If you do not have any cheesecloth, a paper coffee filter will do the job. Line a conical sieve with a large, clean piece of cheesecloth, leaving some of the cloth overhanging the edge of the sieve. Empty the 4 yoghurt pots into the lined sieve and place it into a large bowl.

2. Fold the overhanging cloth over the yogurt and place the sieve in the fridge. Leave it to drain for 2 days, emptying the bowl occasionally. This will allow the yogurt to thicken.

3. After 2 days simply transfer the thickened yogurt to a bowl and keep it refridgerated until needed.

4. Now, preheat oven to 200°C while you prepare the meat. Place the minced lamb into a bowl. Add the onion, garlic and molasses. Mix well then add the spices, parsley and season with salt and pepper and mix again.

5. Cut the pita bread into quarters (or halves, if they are

small) and fill them with the lamb mixture, flattening the bread pockets until the stuffing is evenly spread.

6. Lightly brush the outside of the pita bread on both sides

with olive oil and transfer them to a large sheet pan and place it in the heated oven. Bake the filled bread for 15 minutes, turning the portions once during cooking time so that they brown evenly all over. Alternatively, cook them on a griddle pan, turning them several times to avoid burning.

7. Serve the arayes fresh from the oven with lebneh and drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and a dollop of harissa for the spice lovers.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

27

T&F AUTUMN

“This is one of Nanna Rita’s family classics.

It’s always a good day when she cooks this.”

Edward Diacono

“Għaġin Grieg bil-Ħaruf” Small pasta with lamb

Serves 6 as a starter or 4 as a main course Preparation and cooking time: 35 minutes Recommended wine: Chianti Classico or Chianti Rùfina YOU WILL NEED

3 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 300g minced lamb 1 medium onion, peeled and diced finely salt and pepper 500g ditalini pasta 500ml chicken stock 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary needles 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint 1 handful fresh parsley, chopped 150g grated Parmesan 30g grated Pecorino Romano 100g cubed butter

28

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

1. Place a large deep pot on the

heat and add the extra-virgin olive oil. Add the minced lamb, stir fry and season. Cook the meat till it is properly browned, then transfer it to a dish leaving some of the dripping in the pot.

3. Add the raw ditalini and stir them well to coat them properly. Now, start adding the warm chicken stock gradually.

Continue cooking as you would a risotto, adding the stock a little at a time and stirring and letting the mixture absorb the liquid before adding any more.

2. Return the pot to the heat and cook the onion for a few minutes till it softens, then return the cooked lamb to the pot and mix the ingredients together.

4. When the pasta is quite al dente stir in the herbs and the cheeses.

Finally, stir in the cubed butter and mix it in until melted and well combined. Serve this at once.

T&F AUTUMN

YOU WILL NEED

8 lamb brains 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 150g self-raising flour 1 pinch salt 100ml soda water Vegetable oil to fry PURÉE

4 large carrots salt 100ml extra-virgin olive oil (or a little less) 4 large plum tomatoes salt and pepper 1 pinch chili 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1. Peel the carrots and chop them roughly.

Bring a pot of salted water to the boil and cook the carrots till they are very soft. Drain them well and let them cool.

2. Transfer the cooled, cooked carrots to a blender and blitz them while slowly adding the extra-virgin olive oil. Add just enough extra-virgin olive oil to get a silky purée. Check and adjust the seasoning.

3. Heat up a griddle pan. Slice the tomatoes in half lengthwise and grill them on both sides till they are well charred. Transfer them to a board and chop them up together with salt, pepper, chili and the parsley.

Transfer the mixture to a bowl and add a dash of extra-virgin olive oil.

4. Bring a pot of water to the boil. Add salt and the white wine vinegar. Gently poach the brains for 5 minutes, then remove them from the water and drain them.

5. Sift the flour into a bowl. Add a pinch

of salt then mix in the soda water using a balloon whisk. Do not overwork the mixture. It should be lightly combined.

6. Heat up a deep pot of vegetable oil

to 180°C. Run the brains through the batter till they are well coated, then drop them carefully into the hot oil. Fry them until they are golden and puffed up.

7. Use a slotted spoon to lift them out of the oil and place them on kitchen paper to drain the excess oil.

8. To serve, plate the warm carrot purée

with a dollop of the tomato relish in the middle. Top this with the brain tempura.

30

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

Lamb brain tempura with charred tomatoes and carrot purée.

This may not be to everyone’s taste, but it is certainly a delicious dish for all lovers of offal.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking time: 1 hour Recommended wine: Burgundy or New Zealand Pinot Noir (Red). Or a Burgundy Chardonnay (White)

AUTUMN T&F

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

31

T&F AUTUMN

32

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

AUTUMN T&F

“INSALATA MIXWIJA”

Lamb tenderloins on hummus, ‘insalata mixwija’ and chimichurri sauce.

This used to be one of our popular dishes when Giuseppi’s was still in Mellieha. Edward made a few changes to update the recipe.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking time: 2 hours Recommended wine: a rich CabernetSauvignon from Chile or California

Charring the vegetables will give them a lovely, smokey flavour. However, this does create some smoke so turn on your cooker extractor first.

1 aubergine 1 marrow 1 large onion, peeled.

4 cloves garlic, peeled 1 green pepper 2 red chili peppers 1 handful parsley, mint and basil salt and pepper extra-virgin olive oil HUMMUS

1 large tin chick peas, drained 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 lemon 1 good tablespoon tahini 50ml extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper LAMB

12 lamb tenderloins (fillets) 1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped juice of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme salt and pepper CHIMICHURRI

1 good handful parsley, finely chopped 1 tablespoon finely chopped coriander 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 small onion or shallot, finely chopped 1 green chilli, finely chopped 5 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar salt and pepper

1. Place the lamb tenderloins

in a bowl and add the rest of the marinating ingredients.

Mix, then cover and leave in the fridge for at least 2 hours.

Remove the bowl from the fridge at least 30 minutes before cooking to bring it to room temperature.

2. Prepare the insalata. Chop the unpeeled aubergine, marrow, onion and green pepper quite roughly into large chunks. Leave the 4 garlic cloves and chili pepper whole.

3. Toss the chopped and whole vegetables in a little olive oil to coat them lightly. Heat a grill then cook the vegetables till they char. You may roast them in the oven on your highest setting but you will not get that smoky charred flavour that only a grill can give.

4. Cool the vegetables slightly on a large chopping board and hand chop using a good, large chef’s knife. As you are chopping, add the herbs and seasoning to blend the flavours together. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and add a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Set the bowl aside.

5. To prepare the hummus,

place all ingredients into a food processor and blend to a paste.

6. For the chimichurri,

combine all the chopped ingredients with the extravirgin olive oil and vinegar in a bowl and season to taste.

7. Heat up your gril,l or a dry non-stick frying pan. Cook the lamb fillets for 3 minutes on each side (till medium done), then them remove from the heat and leave them to rest for a couple of minutes before serving.

8. Plate the lamb on a bed

of warm “insalata mixwija” with a scoop of hummus on the side and a drizzle of chimichurri around the plate.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

33

T&F AUTUMN

TEMPURA BATTER

Lamb cutlet Tempura on Romesco This is a bit fiddly to prepare and the lamb cutlets must be fried at the last minute for best results, but it’s well worth all the effort.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking time: 2 hours Recommended wine: Barolo or Barbaresco

3 eggs 50g grated Parmesan cheese 350g plain flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 pinch of salt 40ml cold sparkling water 12 lamb cutlets ROMESCO SAUCE

5 sweet red peppers, roasted, peeled and deseeded (retain any juices) 50g blanched hazelnuts 2 cloves garlic 1 small onion 2 tomatoes 60ml extra-virgin olive oil some parsley salt and pepper vegetable oil to deep fry TO SERVE

8 anchovy fillets 16 black olives

1. Prepare the romesco sauce

by simply blending all the ingredients together to get a coarse texture. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and keep it in the fridge till needed.

This may be prepared up to 2 days before serving.

2. Prepare the batter by breaking the 3 eggs into a large mixing bowl. Add the grated Parmesan cheese, then sift in the flour and baking powder and add a little salt. Mix the ingredients together gently while pouring in the cold sparkling water. Stir the mixture until it is amalgamated.

3. Pat the lamb cutlets dry using kitchen paper then run them through the batter. Allow the excess batter to drip away and transfer the coated cutlets to the deep fryer in batches.

Cook them for 2-3 minutes till golden and crisp. Place the cooked cutlets on absorbent kitchen paper and keep them warm while you fry the rest.

4. Serve the cutlets on a bed of warm romesco, garnished with the anchovy fillets and black olives.

34

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

T&F TEATIME

CHOCOLATE LAYER CAKE This isn’t as difficult as it looks, if you make it in stages.

You can prepare the buttercream roses a day early and then decorate the iced cake just before serving time.

Baking and decorating: Amy Mallia • Photography: Megan Mallia

CHOCOLATE CAKE

350g butter 350g sugar 6 eggs, lightly beaten 300g self-raising flour 6 tablespoons cocoa powder 1 teaspoon baking powder oil for greasing the cake tins FILLING

100g milk chocolate 100g plain chocolate 200ml double cream (room temperature) CHOCOLATE ICING

225g icing sugar, sifted 1 tablespoon cocoa powder 2-3 tablespoons boiling water BUTTERCREAM ROSES

220g unsalted butter 1 tablespoon milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ teaspoon salt 600g icing sugar, sifted

Buttercream Roses

1

Prepare the buttercream roses ahead and keep them in the fridge in a closed box until needed. To make these, you will need a piping bag, a petal piping tip, and baking paper.

2

Cut the baking paper into squares. You will need one for each flower. This will make them easier to handle.

3

Use an electric mixer to beat the butter until it is creamy and smooth.

Add the milk, vanilla and salt and mix them in.

4

Sift the icing sugar into the creamed butter mixture. This will ensure there are no lumps that could block the piping tip. Keeping your mixer on a low speed, continue mixing until all the sugar is well incorporated and the mixture is smooth.

5

Reserve a tablespoon of butter cream and transfer the rest to a piping bag fitted with a petal tip. Carefully pipe overlapping petals onto a square of baking paper, starting in the middle and working outwards in concentric circles.

6

Transfer the piped flowers to a box in a single layer and leave them in the fridge until needed.

Chocolate layer cake

1

Lightly grease three non-stick cake tins and line the base with baking paper. Put the butter and sugar into a bowl and beat well until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, a little at a time, and beat them into the mixture.

36

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

2

Now, light the oven and set it at 180°C. Sift the flour, cocoa powder, and baking powder into a bowl and stir them lightly with a fork till well mixed.

Fold the dry ingredients into the cake batter.

3

Divide the mixture equally between the cake tins and use a palette to smoothen the top. Bake the cakes in the pre-heated oven until firm (about 2025 minutes), then remove them from the oven and let them cool for a few minutes before turning them out onto a cooling rack.

4

Meanwhile, make the filling by breaking up the chocolate into small pieces and melting them gently in a heat proof bowl over a pan of simmering water. Keep stirring the chocolate to avoid it caramelising. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the chocolate to cool for about five minutes. Stir in the cream and set the bowl aside while the mixture thickens.

TEATIME T&F

5

Check that the cake tops are level (you may need to trim them using a bread knife) and place one of the cakes on a serving plate. Use a palette to spread a thick layer of filling evenly over the surface. Place the second cake on top and use the flat of your hand to lightly press it down. Add a layer of filling and then place the last cake layer on top.

6

Make the chocolate icing by mixing the sifted icing sugar with the cocoa powder and stirring in boiling water a little at a time, until all the sugar is dissolved.

Quickly spread this over the top of the cake and use a palette to spread it out over the top and around the cake sides. Allow the icing to set properly.

7

Just before serving, bring the reserved buttercream out of the fridge and allow it to reach room temperature.

Now, put a dot of buttercream in the middle of the cake and dot the rest around the top – put one dot for each flower, to ‘anchor’ it in place.

8

Take the buttercream roses out of the fridge.

Use a sharp knife to ‘cut’ a flower off the baking paper and transfer it to the cake. Repeat with all the other flowers.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

37

AN EXTRAORDINARY NEW LEVEL OF RELAXATION

Join us from Wednesday to Sunday 10am to 6pm Find out more at athenaeumspa.com Call us on (+356) 2144 0301 Visit us at Corinthia Palace, Attard

PROMOTION T&F

Mastering the Art of Spa Corinthia Palace’s newly rebuilt and reimagined Athenaeum Spa opened its doors in October offering high-end treatments in an atmosphere of luxurious relaxation.

A

thenaeum Spa is the perfect antidote to our daily stresses.

With a pandemic, global warming, and political tension dominating international news, 2020 is one for the books. If there were ever a time to unplug and escape, this is it.

Switch off your phone and step inside – your sanctuary of blissful calm awaits. The new Athenaeum is an oasis of wellbeing like no other in the heart of Malta. Alleviating every guest’s unique wellness and beauty concerns is the goal, so the spa has curated exclusive therapies using the world-renowned skincare brand ESPA. Start your Athenaeum journey with an ESPA Mindful Massage, Inner Calm Massage or Scalp Massage – or throw caution to the wind and let the experts choose for you. Besides

seven treatment rooms, you can also share your experience with a loved one in the couple’s suite. The health benefits of heat are also there for the taking at the sauna, steam room, heated marble beds, and Vitality Pool, which uses air and water massage jets to release tension.

At Athenaeum, serious self-care is the order of the day.

World-class aesthetic physician Dr Raina Rodrigues (née ZarbAdami) has merged her London Harley Street clinic, Aesthetic Virtue, with Athenaeum Spa. Her luxury boutique med-aesthetic clinics and expert staff combine high-quality services with medical standards to offer specialised facial rejuvenation treatments, now exclusively available at Athenaeum.

To tend to your face, you might try a chemical peel and micro-needling, or perhaps injectables, such as botox and dermal fillers. Athenaeum also exclusively offers painless permanent laser hair reduction.

Quality alone time at Athenaeum is heavenly, but the spa is also ideal for couples, friends and family looking to reconnect away from daily distractions. For the quintessential five-star experience, you can also treat yourselves to an overnight stay at Corinthia Palace, an indulgent brunch or afternoon tea at Villa Corinthiaand a Far Eastern dinner at Rickshaw.

A day at Corinthia Palace will recharge your batteries, leaving you refreshed and ready to take on anything life throws at you. It is safe to say that Athenaeum Spa is the perfect refuge. n

For more information on Corinthia Palace or Athenaeum Spa, visit www.corinthia.com/palace, @corinthiapalace on Twitter, @CorinthiaPalaceHotel and @athenaeumspamt on Facebook and @corinthiapalace and @athenaeum.spa on Instagram

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

39

QUICK MEALS T&F

Breakfast for Busy Mornings Start your day with a splash of colour. These tempting breakfast recipes can be prepared in a flash.

Food and photography: Claire Borg Breakfast is the meal we skip on most days, but it really is the most important one. Pleasing the eye and the palate, this selection is mostly vegan, but the recipes can be adapted to use dairy products and protein toppings of your choice.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

41

T&F QUICK MEALS

42

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

QUICK MEALS T&F

Bagels

I sometimes make bagels with raisins, working 200g of raisins into the dough after kneading it. The raisin version’s delicious served with marmalade and toasted pumpkin seeds. I’ve suggested a few toppings, but it’s really a matter of personal choice.

Makes 8

YOU WILL NEED

500g bread flour • 10g yeast 1 teaspoon salt • 1 tablespoon sugar 300ml water COATING

a choice of poppy seeds, sesame seeds, mixed seeds or cinnamon sugar TOPPING IDEAS

• • • • •

scrambled eggs, chives and roe gherkin, ham and lamb’s lettuce vegan mayonnaise, sweetcorn, cherry tomatoes, and grated vegan cheese marmalade and toasted pumpkin seeds cream cheese, capers, fresh herbs, avocado, hot smoked salmon with a pepper crust

1. Mix the flour, salt and sugar

together. Dissolve the yeast in the water, then add it to the flour and mix it until it all comes together into a smooth dough.

2. Turn out the dough onto a clean floured surface and knead it for ten minutes. Place the kneaded dough in a clean bowl, cover it and let it rest until it doubles in size.

3. Knock back the dough and let it rest for 5 minutes, then divide it into 8 equal pieces.

Shape each piece into a ball, then insert a floured finger into the centre and move your finger in a circle to widen the hole.

4. Place the bagels onto a piece of baking paper, cover them and let them rest for ten minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to the boil. Add a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda to the water.

5. Now, lower the bagels, one

at a time, into the boiling water and cook for 20 seconds on each side. Remove the bagels with a slotted spoon and let them drain. Repeat the process until all the bagels are done.

6. Dip the bagels into seeds of

your choice or in cinnamon sugar and bake them in a hot oven set on 220°C for 18-20 minutes.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

43

T&F QUICK MEALS

Fruit and soaked oats plate

Kiwi and spinach parfait

5 tablespoons jumbo rolled oats 1 tablespoon chia seeds a selection of fruits of your choice water

1 kiwi 1 handful of baby spinach leaves 1 tablespoon chia seeds 1 yoghurt of your choice - I used a natural vegan yoghurt diced mixed fruit - I used mango, dragon fruit, red currant and passion fruit 1 tablespoon maple syrup (optional)

YOU WILL NEED

1. Mix the oats and chia seeds together

and place them in a glass.

2. Add just enough water to cover the oats and seeds. Wrap the glass in cling film and leave to rest overnight in the fridge. The chia seeds and oats will absorb the water and soften.

3. In the morning, place the oat and chia seed

mixture on a plate and top with chopped fresh fruit.

YOU WILL NEED

1. Blend together the kiwi and spinach until smooth.

2. To sweeten it, add the maple syrup and stir it in.

3. Mix in the chia seeds and stir well.

4. In a tall glass, layer the green mix with the yoghurt in alternating layers.

5. Finally top up with diced fruit and serve

44

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

Freedom of Wellbeing Rich in whole grains and cereals

No Added Sugars

Lactose and egg free

Rich in fibre

With seeds and superfoods

T&F QUICK MEALS

Poppyseed & raspberry micro pancakes To make these very small pancakes you ideally need a soft squeezy bottle to be able to press equal amounts of batter onto a hot pan. If you do not manage to find raspberry powder, leave out this ingredient and add more raspberries when serving.

YOU WILL NEED

240g plain flour • 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder • a sprinkle of salt ½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda 2 tablespoons poppy seeds • 1 ripe banana 2 tablespoons raspberry powder (freezedried powdered raspberries) 2 tablespoons sunflower oil • 200ml coconut milk 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

TO SERVE

raspberries • walnuts • poppy seeds pomegranate arils • maple syrup yoghurt • passion fruit • raspberry powder

1. Sift the flour, baking powder and

bicarbonate of soda into a large bowl. Add the sugar, raspberry powder, poppy seeds and salt and stir everything together.

2. In another bowl blend the banana, oil, vinegar and milk until smooth. Whisk the two mixtures together until the batter is smooth.

3. Heat a non-stick pan, brush with oil, then wipe off the excess with a piece of kitchen paper.

Press equal amounts of batter – about the size of a 20c coin - onto the pan. Cook the pancakes for 1 minute over a medium heat, then turn them over and cook them for another minute.

4. To serve, plate the pancakes prettily with walnuts, pomegranates and raspberries, then drizzle with maple syrup. On the side, serve a dollop of yoghurt of your choice (I used a plain vegan yoghurt), then sprinkle it with raspberry powder and poppy seeds.

I served half a passionfruit on the side too.

46

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

QUICK MEALS T&F

Sautéed mushrooms on toast YOU WILL NEED

1 slice of bread - I used homebaked sourdough, but a standard Maltese ħobża is fine ½ an avocado 4 mushrooms a sprinkle of garlic granules fresh chives hemp seeds a few spinach leaves some oil salt and pepper

1. Wipe the mushrooms with

kitchen paper and slice them up.

2. Set a frying pan on high heat.

Once the pan warms up, drizzle in some oil and swirl it around to coat the bottom of the pan.

3. Put in the sliced mushrooms and let them cook, stirring occasionally, until they’re done.

4. Next, add the garlic granules and chopped chives, stir them in, and cook the mixture for a few seconds.

5. Toast the bread, then layer

it with mashed avocado, some spinach leaves, the cooked mushrooms, more chives and a sprinkle of hemp seeds.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

47

QUICK MEALS T&F

YOU WILL NEED

5 tablespoons jumbo rolled oats 1 tablespoon chia seeds frozen or fresh raspberries dark chocolate spread or ganache water

1. Mix the oats and chia seeds

together and place them in a glass. Add just enough water to cover the seeds, wrap the glass in cling film and leave it to rest overnight in the fridge.

2. In the morning, layer the oat and chia seed mix with some tablespoonfuls of chocolate spread, then top with raspberries and serve.

Raspberry, chocolate and overnight soaked oats glass ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

49

T&F QUICK MEALS

Vegan cereal pancakes with blueberries

To make these very small pancakes, use a soft squeezy bottle to be able to dispense equal amounts of batter onto a hot pan.

YOU WILL NEED

240 plain flour 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda a sprinkle of salt 1 ripe banana 2 tablespoons sunflower oil 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 200ml coconut milk TO SERVE

maple syrup blueberries

1. Sift the flour, bicarbonate

of soda and baking powder together into a large bowl.

2. Add the sugar and salt and mix the dry ingredients together.

3. In another bowl, blend the banana, oil, vinegar and milk until smooth. Whisk the wet and dry mixtures together until the batter is smooth. Pour the batter into a squeezable bottle.

4. Heat a non-stick pan, brush the base with oil, then wipe off the excess with a piece of kitchen paper.

5. Squeeze equal amounts

of batter – about the size of a 20c coin - into the hot pan. Cook the batter for 1 minute over a medium heat, then turn over the pancakes and cook for another minute.

6. Serve the pancakes

warm with plenty of fresh blueberries and maple syrup.

50

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

T&F QUICK MEALS

I also love to serve this with a dollop of salmon roe or some hot smoked salmon.

YOU WILL NEED

1 bunch of Tuscan kale Thai 7 spice powder vegetable oil sliced bread - I used a seeded rye sourdough, but any bread will do a spread of your choice - cream cheese, vegan mayo, or a soya spread mashed avocado salt

1. Pre-heat the

oven to 180°C.

2. Wash and dry the kale. Remove the stems and roughly cut up the leaves. Place the chopped leaves in a bowl, drizzle them with a little oil, then add some salt and a sprinkle of Thai 7 spice mix. Toss well.

Avocado toast with spiced salted kale chips 52

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

3. Place the kale on a non-stick baking tray brushed with a little oil and bake in the pre-heated oven for 2 minutes. Turn over the leaves and bake for another minute.

You might need to turn the leaves again and let them bake for a further minute, but it very much depends on your oven and the kale itself. The kale’s done when the leaves are dried up and crisp.

4. Toast the sliced bread and coat one side with your preferred spread.

Top up with mashed avocado and sprinkle with flaky kale.

Experience Seed A unique dining experience from start to finish.

For reservations call (+356) 2366 1592 or follow us Hyatt Regency Malta, St Julian’s

T&F PROMOTION

SEED

HYATT REGENCY MALTA

Photography: Brian Grech

When a combination of brilliant chefs and hospitality professionals come together, expect a mouth-watering masterpiece.

I

ntroducing Seed, overlooking the piazza and Santa Rita chapel at the recently opened Hyatt Regency Malta. Seed boasts an exceptionally experienced team, beautiful décor, an incredibly tranquil yet central location and the promises of a unique dining experience from start to finish. Matthew De Bono, the food and beverage manager, is no stranger to fine dining. Matthew has managed some of Malta’s most renowned local restaurants. Why Seed? Matthew explains that Seed is a unique place offering the finest food in a most welcoming atmosphere.

54

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

“We’ve worked tirelessly to ensure that guests have a great experience, from exclusive, complimentary parking with easy access to the restaurant to comfortable yet chic décor. Seed has been designed to host a quick professional business lunch, romantic dinner or an unforgettable get together with family and friends and we really are looking forward to hosting you soon!”

The kitchen at Seed is led by Executive Chef Noel Azzopardi, an award-winning chef in his own right. Noel

PROMOTION T&F

“The menu at Seed is designed around an incredible selection of flavours, fantastically put together to create well-loved favourite dishes that are special in their creation.”

has run some of the most exquisite kitchens on the island.

Chef Noel described the launch menu as fresh, original and refined. “We want guests to immerse themselves in flavours of the food, step away from the fast-paced life we lead and really enjoy a unique meal” Noel will be supported by a great team including Executive Sous Chef, Daniel Vella Mcintyre, a past student of Noel’s and an established local chef.

Daniel explained that the uniqueness of Seed lies in its simplicity, “The menu at Seed is designed around an incredible selection of flavours, fantastically put together to create well-loved favourite dishes that are special in their creation.” Daniel went on to explain that “If I must pick just two of my favourite dishes from the Seed menu these would be the duck baklava and the carbonara agnolotti, because they are simple, delicious and special, and because you’ll only find them at Seed.” n ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

55

T&F ENTERTAINING

56

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

ENTERTAINING T&F

DELIGHTFUL

DINNER Sisters Roberta and Ramona Preca have made a name for themselves cooking in restaurants. They’re back with their fresh take on favourite ingredients and classic recipes, perfect for entertaining or a special night in. All recipes serve two, but can easily be scaled up for larger parties.

Styling: Antoinette Micallef Photography: Mark Sapienza

“IT’S ABOUT TIME”,, a new book by Ramona and Roberta Preca, will be in bookshops soon. Styling and design by Antoinette Micallef and photography by Mark Sapienza. Pre-order your copy by emailing Ramona on ramona_preca@hotmail.com or Roberta on robertapreca@gmail.com

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

57

T&F ENTERTAINING

Parma ham roll with mozzarella, figs and pinenuts Serves 2 to share as a starter

YOU WILL NEED

1 x 125g mozzarella di bufala, thickly sliced 2 dried figs 3 slices Parma ham rucola, seasoned with balsamic vinegar and olive oil 2 tablespoons pine nuts, roasted tomato relish toasted sliced bread

58

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

1. Leave the mozzarella in the

fridge so that it remains firm and easy to handle. Meanwhile, lay out each slice of ham and trim off the excess fat.

2. Now, place the drained

mozzarella on top of the trimmed ham. Add the seasoned rucola, top it with sliced figs and pine nuts, and roll up the ham.

3. Place the filled ham roll onto a sheet of clingfilm and roll it up firmly. Leave the wrapped ham roll in the fridge for at least 30 minutes to firm up.

4. Now, take the ham roll out of the fridge and remove the clingfilm carefully. Trim the ends of the ham roll and serve it whole or divided into three slices, accompanied with toasted bread on top and tomato relish on the side.

T&F ENTERTAINING

60

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

ENTERTAINING T&F

Clam and fennel soup Serves 2 YOU WILL NEED

1 medium-sized potato, cut into cubes 12 clams, scrubbed 20g unsalted butter 20g garlic 20ml extra-virgin olive oil 2 medium onions, chopped 1 fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly sliced 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 medium spring onion, white and light green parts only, chopped 1 large carrot, peeled, trimmed and chopped 50g bacon, chopped or minced ½ cup heavy cream 275ml cider 1 celery stick, chopped 2 half fillets of white fish, cut into cubes 500ml fish stock TO GARNISH

lemon wedges

1. Melt the butter and olive oil in

a medium-sized pot over medium heat. Add the finely-chopped onions, carrots, and bacon and cook for 5 minutes. Next, add the tomato paste and stir.

2. Now, add the fennel bulb, chopped celery stick and cubed potatoes and cook for a further 10 minutes. Pour in the cider and continue cooking until the liquid reduces by half.

3. Put in the clams and let them cook till the shells open, then add the fish cubes and fish stock and stir. Season with salt and pepper and pour in the cream.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

61

T&F ENTERTAINING

62

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

ENTERTAINING T&F

Goat cheese, Beet and Pecan Salad YOU WILL NEED

4 bunches fresh red beetroots, or 10 preserved red baby beetroots 1 sprig of thyme ½ an onion, peeled and finely sliced 80ml extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar 1 tablespoon honey 2 tablespoons pomegranate arils 1 bunch watercress or rucola Mixed salad leaves 150g soft goat’s cheese, crumbled 100g pecan nuts, roasted and chopped

1. If you are using fresh beetroots, preheat the oven

to 180°C. On your worktop, place two 90cm-long pieces of foil on top of each other to form a double layer. Place the fresh beetroots in the centre, sprinkle with thyme leaves and a pinch each of salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper, and drizzle with the vinegar and 1 tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil.

2. Now, bring the edges of the foil together and fold them to form a parcel. Place the foil-wrapped beetroots on a baking tray and roast them in the pre-heated oven for 1 hour or until the beetroots are tender.

3. Remove the cooked beetroots from the oven and let them stand, unwrapped, for 30 minutes to cool down. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel and quarter them and set them aside.

4. Prepare the dressing by whisking the garlic, white wine vinegar, honey and the rest of the olive oil in a bowl until well-combined. Now, stir in the pomegranate arils.

5. Put the mixed salad leaves and watercress in a

bowl and drizzle well with the salad dressing. Tip out the mixed salad onto a serving dish, scatter with the beetroot quarters and top with the goat’s cheese, pecans, and sliced onions, and serve at once.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

63

T&F ENTERTAINING

Pork fillet, dates, apple and chorizo Serves 2 YOU WILL NEED

350g pork tenderloin fillet, sliced 50g chorizo style sausage, or cooked spicy pork sausages, sliced 1 tablespoon olive oil 3 cloves garlic, crushed 3cm leek, chopped 3 medjool dates, pitted and sliced 100ml chicken stock salt and pepper 70ml Port wine 100ml cream

1. Heat the olive oil in a large pan, add the garlic and leeks, and

cook until slightly softened. Add the pork fillet and sausage slices and continue to cook until the pork is brown on both sides.

2. Now, add the chopped dates, stir well to coat all the ingredients, add chicken stock and cook till the liquid reduces. Now, add the Port wine and season to taste.

3. Cover the pot, bring the liquid to the boil and let it simmer with the lid on for 10 minutes. Now, add the cream, stir it in, and let the liquid simmer until the sauce thickens.

4. Serve this with fluffy rice or roasted potatoes.

64

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

FROM MONDAY 2ND NOVEMBER

www.lidl.com.mt

Discover more Deluxe products in our stores.

T&F ENTERTAINING

66

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

ENTERTAINING T&F

YOU WILL NEED

550g galetto chicken 150g salted butter salt and freshly ground black pepper RED WINE JUS

90ml port wine 90ml red wine 1 rosemary sprig 1 bay leaf 1 sprig of thyme 1 tablespoon sugar 350ml beef stock 2 tablespoons butter 2 shallots 10g sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 190°C. Place the chicken in a

roasting pan and season it generously inside and out with around a tablespoon of salt. This will give it a nicely uniform coating which will result in a crisp, salty, full-flavour skin. (When the chicken is cooked, you should still be able to make out the salt baked onto the crisp skin.) Season to taste with pepper.

2. Put two tablespoons of butter in the chicken cavity and dot the rest of the butter around the outside. Bake the chicken, uncovered, for 20-25 minutes in the preheated oven until its internal temperature reaches 190°C (you will need a meat thermometer to measure this).

3. Remove the chicken from the oven, baste it with the melted butter and meat juices, cover it with aluminum foil and allow it to rest for 7 minutes before serving.

4. Meanwhile, bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook until tender but still firm (about 15 minutes) and drain well.

5. In a small saucepan, heat the butter and milk over low

heat until the butter is melted. Using a potato masher or electric beater, slowly blend the milk mixture into the potatoes until they are smooth and creamy. Add the chopped chives and season with salt and pepper to taste.

6. To make the red wine jus, put the olive oil in a

Roasted galetto chicken This is served on a bed of chive-infused, mashed potatoes with red wine jus

large pan over a medium heat and fry the shallots with the herbs until they are golden and caramelised.

Add the sugar and continue cooking for about 10 minutes, or until the liquid reduces by half.

7. Pour in the stock and continue to cook until reduced by half again, then strain, discarding the shallots and herbs. Transfer the sauce to a new pan and bring it to the boil. Remove it from the heat and whisk in the butter. Season to taste.

8. To serve, put the mashed potatoes in the middle

of a large serving dish and flatten slightly. Place the cooked chicken on top and spoon over the red wine jus. Serve immediately on warmed plates.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

67

T&F ENTERTAINING

Banana “tarte tatin” Serves 2

68

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

ENTERTAINING T&F

YOU WILL NEED

Ready-rolled, allbutter puff pastry 160g castor sugar 30g unsalted butter, cut into cubes 2 bananas, peeled and cut into Âź inch slices 1 pinch of salt 1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 scoops vanilla ice cream

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C.

Place two same-sized (10cm) round baking dishes on a rimmed baking sheet.

2. Set a medium pan over a medium-low heat, and add the castor sugar. Let the sugar heat up without stirring. Once it has started to dissolve and turn a deep golden colour, swirl the pan in a circular motion to help the sugar dissolve and prevent it sticking to the pan.

It will take about 5 minutes to completely dissolve.

3. Add the unsalted butter and swirl the pan from side to side until the caramel mix starts to bubble. At this stage, remove the pan from the heat and use a spatula to turn out the caramel into the baking dishes.

4. Arrange the banana slices on top of the caramel in concentric circles to cover the base completely.

Sprinkle with cinnamon.

5. Roll out the pastry and cut

out two circles. Carefully, place each one over the top of a baking dish, making sure the banana slices are properly covered. Place the baking tray in the oven and bake until the pastry is golden and puffed up, and the filling is bubbling.

6. Remove the baking tray from

the oven. Working quickly, place a heat-proof dessert plate over one of the baking dishes and invert it. Repeat with the second baking dish.

Serve immediately, topped with vanilla ice-cream.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

69

T&F PROMOTION

Unique, unmistakable, incomparable

GRANA PADANO PDO

O

nly Grana Padano’s qualities entitle it to the name Grana Padano, which is why the name must always be used in its entirety.

The name Grana Padano has acquired a certain status associated with a highquality product. The significance of the name Grana Padano sets it apart, the two words embodyingits entire history: “Grana” due to its texture, as “grana” means “grainy” in Italian; “Padano” from the production area in the “PianuraPadana”, which is the Po River Valley in northern Italy.

PRODUCTION AND INGREDIENTS Grana Padano DOP has many properties that set it apart from other cheeses. It is produced with just a fewingredients of exceptional quality: milk, salt, rennet, and lysozyme. Grana Padano cheese is made from raw milk from cows mainly fed with fresh fodder, hay or silage. The milk is only sourced from the areas defined in the production specifications.

Interestingly, 24% of all the milk produced in Italy is destined for Grana Padano.

WHAT IS A PDO (DOP, in Italy) The Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) denotes a particulararea, region or country where an agricultural product or a foodstuff originates and is still made. The PDO indicates that the product quality or properties are significantly or exclusively determined by the geographical environment, including natural and human factors, and that it is produced, processed and prepared for the market within the designated geographical area. To receive PDO status, the entire product must be traditionally and entirely manufactured (prepared, processed and produced) within the specific region, and thus acquiring its unique properties.

70

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

NUTRITIOUS AND LACTOSE-FREE Our Grana Padano PDO cheese is truly an ideal food for everyone. Thanks to its high-quality nutritional content, Grana Padano PDO is highly recommended during weaning and adolescence, and for adults, pregnant women, athletes, and the elderly. 100 grammes of Grana Padano have a nutritional value of 398 calories.

Just one portion of Grana Padano supplies the same protein input as milk, but in a concentrated form - 60g of Grana Padano contains the same amount of nutrients found in 1 litre of milk.

Eating Grana Padano regularly will boost your daily intake of minerals,which form a vital part of a balanced diet, such as zinc, copper and phosphorusbut, most importantly, calcium. A 50g portion of Grana Padano contains 580mg of calcium,which is important for the development and maintenance of strong bones.

Grana Padano is also an important source of A and B2 vitamins: the average percentage equals to a third of the RDA fixed by EU. In addition, a 50g portion will supply 75% of the daily amount of B12 vitamin recommended for an adult.

Technically, Grana Padano is a semi-fat cheese, meaning it is made from partially skimmed milk. A 50g portion contains approximately 30% fat. It is mostly “good” unsaturated fat, providing half of the recommendeddaily percentage.

Grana Padano is carbohydrate-free and can be considered virtually lactose-free due to its long ageing period, making it perfectly suited for people who suffer from lactose intolerance.

PROMOTION T&F

Ageing

The great taste of Grana Padano is created through a slow, natural ageing process in specifically designed maturation warehouses where temperatures are kept between 15° and 22°C.

G How can you be sure it is Grana Padano PDO?

rana Padano PDO is instantly recognisable. Each one of its wheels is characterised by its marks of origin, and if those marks are not there, then it is not authentic Grana Padano. These marks act as a unique, personal signature, distinguishing it from any other product. They certify its quality, its origins and its uniqueness as a “traditional cheese”. Even when Grana Padano has been portioned to be sold, the PDO branding will be on the packaging, making it easily recognisable. If the PDO branding is not on the packaging, the cheese inside is not authentic Grana Padano.

• Markers include the Caseine plate, which is placed on the flat surface of the wheel during the moulding process, so that it engraves its mark on the rind. The plate includes the “GRANA PADANO” mark, the ID codes of the wheel, which guarantee its traceability and indicates the place of production.

• The Quadrifoglio, four-leaf clover, is imprinted at the “birth” of the wheel, when the curd solidifies in the mould. This is the mark that certifies the origin of the wheel, including the initials of the province of production and the dairy’s registration number. It also includes the letters DOP, (PDO – Protected Designation of Origin) the mark which shows that the cheese is produced in the area of origin identified by the law, in accordance with the Product Specifications.

• Diamond shaped lozenges are imprinted by the fascera, the wooden mould used to shape the cheese, during the molding process. The rind of the wheel reads “GRANA” and “PADANO”. The diamond shapes are printed around the entire rind, covering the entire edge of the wheel, thus allowing the cheese to be identified as GRANA PADANO even when it is sold in portions.

• The CE mark (ConformitéEuropéenne) is imprinted by the fascera during the moulding process. It certifies the month and year of production, and the factory, which can be an important reference for health purposes.

• Fire-branding certifies that the wheels of cheese meet the requirements requested by the Product Specifications, and fire branding is carried out by the GP Consortium along with the certifying body CSQA. Therefore the “Denominazione di OrigineProtetta”, the equivalent of PDO, is authentic. Without this mark, the cheese can neither be named nor sold as Grana Padano, not even when grated or cut into portions. The “GRANA PADANO” brand was created by the Grana Padano Protection Consortium.

Grana Padano aged from 9 to 16 months Aged between 9 and 16 months, Grana Padano PDO is softer and less grainy than the more mature versions. Pale yellow in color, its taste is mild, milky and delicate. At this age, Grana Padano is a versatile “young” cheese which is ideal for making sauces, perfect as a topping for meats and vegetables, great as an appetiser and a snack, or used as shavings on a fresh salad or beef carpaccio. The lightness of this cheese makes it perfect with fresh, light wines.

Grana Padano aged more than 16 months Tasty but not overpowering, 16-month old Grana Padano has an aroma of hay and dried fruit. Its marked strawcoloured, grainy texture with evidence of calcium lactate crystals and its flaky structure make it an excellent table cheese and ideal for grating. It is perfect for enthusiastic cooks who want that elusive “magic touch”.

Grana Padano PDO Riserva over 20 months Grana Padano “Riserva” is aged over 20 months and has passed an additional quality test carried out by the Consortium’s technicians. It features a distinct grainy texture with a clear flaky structure and a darkstraw-yellow color. Its flavour is intense and persistent. This cheese may even be matured for over 24 months, giving it a richer and fuller taste.

Besides being a special ingredient in a great variety of dishes, Grana Padano “Riserva” also works extremely well when served as part of a luxurious cheeseboard with nuts, fruit and chutneys, and with aged balsamic vinegar.

Its superlative flavour is enhanced by pairing with dessert wines, fortified wines and full-bodied, aged red wines. It is the perfect choice to satisfy true aficionados and make every meal a celebration for the gourmet palate. n

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

71

T&F LIGHT MEALS

Roasted squash with pomegranate molasses Serves 2 • Preparation and cooking: 45 minutes Photo: Corinne Vella

YOU WILL NEED

1 medium-sized squash 2 large cloves of garlic 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses 4 tablespoons of fresh orange juice 1 handful pomegranate arils ½ handful unsalted pistachio nuts 400ml vegetable stock fresh dill fronds olive oil sea salt flakes freshly crushed black pepper

1

Wash the squash and wipe it dry. Top and tail it, cut it in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds. Slice up the squash halves into pieces a half-inch thick, leaving the skin on.

2

Brush a clay deep-sided oven dish with olive oil.

Lay the squash slices in a single layer, drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

3

Roast the squash in a hot oven for 10 minutes. Turn over the slices and roast for a further 10 minutes.

4

Peel and thinly slice the garlic cloves. Prepare the vegetable stock and stir in the pomegranate molasses and orange juice.

72

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

5

Scatter the garlic among the squash slices and pour the liquid into the baking dish. Return the dish to the oven and let it roast for another 15 minutes. When the liquid thickens to a sauce and the squash starts to turn golden around the edges, it’s done.

6

Use a slotted palette to lift the roasted squash onto warmed serving plates. Spoon some of the roasted garlic around the squash and drizzle with the sauce.

7

Serve scattered with dill fronds, pomegranate arils and chopped pistachio nuts and a pinch of sea salt flakes.

T&F WINE

A TASTE OF THE TIMES Climate change is shaking up viticulture. Grapes are ripening earlier, and in regions not previously known for wine-making.

Andrew Azzopardi on what this means for established winemakers.

I

was half-way through finishing a glass of this excitingly refreshing English sparkling wine when it dawned on me how much the wine world has changed in recent years. Who’d have thought that Sussex would be producing a sparkling wine with enough class and elegance to challenge Champagne?

Last year, while I was walking towards the exit of an international wine fair in Germany, I was intrigued by a stand promoting a certain renowned – as I later realised – Chinese wine-producer. The lovely Asian woman explained that the terroir of the wine is so similar to that of Bordeaux and that the final product had a certain Bordeaux-esque style to it. I was sceptical at first. Fine Chinese wine? That didn’t sound right, but I was wrong.

The wine was so smooth, fresh and, I must say, enjoyable, that I initially blamed the experience on having drunk too much at the previous stand. Back at my hotel room I looked up the producers and I was stunned at the incredibly high professional ratings. So, I wasn’t tipsy after all – the wine really was balanced and extremely well made.

It’s not just England and China that are producing particularly interesting wines. Wine-producing areas have changed radically over the years. Only a few years ago, “New World” wines usually came from areas in Australia, Argentina, Chile, South Africa and the USA which fall within the 30-50 degree latitudes in both the northern and southern hemispheres, where the respective climates favour wine making.

Fast forward to today, “New Latitude Wines” have emerged from areas further north and south. Areas in Vietnam, China, Denmark and Norway, which are well outside the traditional wine-making zones, are now producing stunning wines that are turning heads in the wine world. How have these areas suddenly managed to start producing such great wines?

74

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

The improvement in wine-making techniques has definitely given wine producers more tools to experiment further afield. However, climate change is a factor we cannot deny. Around the world, smart wine-producers have been adapting and experimenting for years with new grape varieties and techniques to combat or adapt to climate change.

Heavyweight producers Gaja in Piedmont, like many other clever wine-producers, had set aside an area of their vineyards dedicated to experimenting with different grapes varieties, vineyard management techniques and sustainable solutions to combat the changes in climate they expect to face in the future.

Frédéric Drouhin, president of the well-known Maison Joseph Drouhin winery in Burgundy, states that even though global warming has had a general positive effect in Burgundy, since grapes reach full maturity much more easily than 2030 years ago and harvesting is often three weeks earlier than it used to be, they are however having to combat new diseases such as flavescence dorée, as well as extreme weather conditions such as frost.

Similarly, German wine producers are benefitting from the current situation and have been churning out some of the most incredible quality dry white and red wines. Global warming has benefitted the typically cool-climate growing regions such as Mosel or Rheingau in Germany, or Alsace and the Loire Valley in France with more reliable grape ripening, and consequently better crops.

However, there are producers in areas like Champagne who may be worried that acid levels may be dropping. If the high acidity, so integral to keeping the freshness and elegance of the wine, is in jeopardy, could this potentially be the end of the world’s favourite sparkling wine? Renowned producers Taittinger had invested in an apple orchard in South England four years ago, with the intent of adding an English sparkling wine to their portfolio. That could be a sign of things to come.

WINE T&F

All serious winemakers are aware of the situation and most are consciously changing their ways to more sustainable and environmentallyfriendly methods.

An ocean and a continent away from Europe, in California’s wine-making region of Napa Valley, producers are grappling with a vortex caused by a warming planet. This includes heat waves, droughts, cold snaps, wildfires and other disturbances.

Following years of drought, wildfire in October 2017 spread across Cabernet Sauvignon country destroying housing and vineyards, threatening the surviving grapes that had not been harvested due to the excess smoke. This meant many wineries lost their livelihood or crops for the year, and even those that didn’t were forced to invest in diesel generators and other portable equipment to keep their business running when the general electric providers intentionally shut down electrical power to safeguard their equipment.

Many do not believe that climate change is the only cause of these extreme weather conditions, but a growing number of producers are acknowledging that climate change, at the very least, has intensified existing problems. The environmentally conscious John Williams, from the Frogs Leap winery in Rutherford California, believes that due to the absence of government greenhouse-gas regulations and other mandatory rules, wine-makers are not compelled to change methods that have brought them success to date. He believes that it is up to the individual wineries to feel obliged to pull their own weight. “It’s enlightened self-interest,” he muses.

It is a similar situation in Bordeaux, where, during a recent trip, I spoke to many a winemaker about the issues of climate change. There are no specific climate change government regulations, and no winemaker feels obliged to change their methods either. However, at a minimum, all serious winemakers are aware of the situation and most are consciously changing their ways to more sustainable and environmentally-friendly methods.

The wine itself has changed considerably. I don’t remember Bordeaux wines with an alcohol percentage of more than 13%, but nowadays it’s not uncommon to see alcohol percentages of 14%, 15%, or possibly even more. That is not necessarily a bad thing. The producers are aware that consumers now tend to prefer high-alcohol wines, and this has suited the Bordelais extremely well. Better still, harvesting in Bordeaux has also moved to earlier in the year due to earlier and more consistent grape ripening, resulting in a spectacular sequence of formidable vintages such as 2014, 2015, 2016, 2018 and 2019.

James Sichel, owner of Château Palmer and Château Angludet, explained that the future depends on action now.

“We take sustainable development very seriously. It is not only

the reduction of our own carbon footprint that’s important to us, and which we are constantly analysing, but actually tackling climate change through a number of measures we have implemented”. Be it the rising Gironde tides, the increase in frost or hotter summers, producing the best grapes in Bordeaux in 2020 is extremely different to what it used to be.

This alone is a wake-up call to the wine-industry.

Though the wine industry, being rather traditional, may have been slow to react compared to other industries, it cannot limit or reverse climate change on its own. I think it should be at the forefront of change. The industry is changing but there needs to be an aggressive movement towards fighting for governments’ response by declaring a crisis. Only then will everyone be required to change their behaviour.

Agriculture is responsible for a significant percentage of the planet-warming greenhouse gases produced each year, and wine-growing is among the most visible and influential agricultural enterprises in the world.

Luckily, many premium wines are made using sustainable or organic methods and not only is there a growing demand for sustainable or organic wines, but there is also a growing consensus that these methods actually improve the end product. Organic growers represent about 10% of the total area in Burgundy, which may still sound like a little, but many great producers that have pioneered organic culture believe they are reaping the benefits of their foresight.

Yet, the elephant in the room remains – the global quality of wine has improved. Climate change is only being tackled in the vineyard of which the global effects are neglible, but the end-product positive and refined. So, if the climate keeps moving in this current trajectory, will the present methods and grape varieties adapt to warmer weather, or will they have to change clones and varieties?

Will Burgundy stop producing the beautiful elegant wines from the delicate Pinot Noir grape for other grape varieties?

Will Bordeaux style become more opulent and richer, much like Calfornia? Will the Nebbiolo grape in Piedmont adapt to the warmer weather, or will the vineyards simply move further North? Will the Australian Shiraz or Californian Cabernet lose their freshness, and will Champagne from Champagne become just a memory?

Nobody really knows, and though experiments are being done, only time will tell. What is certain is that unless there is a global will from governments and producers to stop and possibly reverse climate change, the wines of the future will be a whole lot different to what they are today. n

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

75

T&F TRANSFORMATION

THEVILLAGE Photo: Martina Fenech-Adami

76

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

TRANSFORMATION T&F

HOME The look of this house is light and fresh, with all the welcoming warmth of sunshine on a mild autumn day.

Interior design: Kco Design by Martina Fenech-Adami and Gaby Herbert Photography: Ramon Portelli

It’s over a century old and tucked away in the tangle of alleys behind the parish church deep in a village core, but this traditional townhouse is nothing like you might expect.

There’s none of the musty gloom or safe-butdull décor that characterises some houses, where furniture is a mix of the merely functional and practical or polished to a high sheen and never used. The look of this house is light and fresh, with all the welcoming warmth of sunshine on a mild autumn day.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

77

T&F TRANSFORMATION

R

enovating old houses is notoriously problematic.

Planning rules restrict the possibility of major changes, and the density and age of village streets usually means there are problems with rising damp and decaying structures. But here, beyond the standard treatment of oiling the walls to protect against humidity and minor repairs to the ceiling beams, minimal repairs were necessary.

There is a sense of history in the texture of the flagstone floors, where the stones laid out in a brickwork pattern are slightly rough around the edges though they are barely dented by decades of foot traffic. In places, the walls have been left exposed, the irregular size and shape of their stones speaking of their rustic past. Overhead, wooden beams hold up the stone ceilings. The soft tones of the natural material, ranging from ivory to peach, give the interior a warm glow and a cocooning effect.

In places, the walls have been partly covered by smooth gypsum plaster, bringing in a contemporary note. “It’s overwhelming to have the whole room in bare stone,” the designer, Martina Fenech-Adami says. “So we put in block colour on one portion and left the rich Maltese limestone exposed in some places. The composition of the room was carefully considered to ensure a balance of light and texture.”

In the reception area, the plastered area is the palest of blue.

The beams, front door and windows are framed in white.

It is a classic colour combination, reminiscent of the sky in springtime.

78

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

T&F TRANSFORMATION

T

o the left of the space, there’s a high-backed armchair upholstered in mustard-yellow, flanked by a contemporary coat rack and wooden occasional table.

To the right, at the far end of the space, the classic lines of a custom-built library unit fill the wall. A round wooden table sits in the centre, topped with glass candlesticks and a stoneware vase filled with a tumble of flowers and greenery.

Appropriately, a pineapple shaped glass chandelier hangs opposite the front door – an inadvertent nod to the tradition of pineapples signaling welcome.

The designer worked with her client to rethink the internal layout of the building, changing the function and the way the rooms could be used, and finally decorating the interior. “The living area was immediately inside the front door but coming in from the outside directly into a personal space doesn’t feel right,” she says, “so we turned that into a reception area.”

In a compact building, that might seem like a ‘wasted’ space that could be put to a functional use. Yet it has the effect of opening up the house, making it seem bigger – and certainly more inviting.

Photo: Martina Fenech-Adami

80

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

TRANSFORMATION T&F

“So we put in block colour on one portion and left the rich Maltese limestone exposed in some places. The composition of the room was carefully considered to ensure a balance of light and texture."

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

81

T&F TRANSFORMATION

T

he backroom of the house wasn’t being used for any particular purpose. To the side, a door led out onto an internal yard. In the renovation process, the door panels were removed and the yard converted into a dining area with a retractable roof, wooden cladding along the side walls and turf underfoot. “There wasn’t any dining space before,” Martina says, “so we turned the backroom and yard into an indoor-outdoor area.”

The kitchen carcass was in stone. To give it a contemporary feel, new door fronts were fitted with coloured door knobs and detailing, and industrialstyle pendant lamps were installed.

“We played around with ideas to get a balance between rustic and contemporary,” Martina says, “and used brass and glass to bring in light.”

In the kitchen, the longer stone walls have been left mostly bare. The wall around the opening to the yard is plastered and painted in white. Along one wall, just above the worktop, a large, sage green glass panel functions as a splashback and bounces light back into the room. In the yard, the far wall has been left unplastered and painted in white, the irregularity of its lines and surface showing through, a contrast to the smoothness and rigidly straight lines of the wooden slats along the side walls.

A stone staircase leads up to personal zone of the home, housing the double bedroom, wardrobe, and bathroom. Here, too, some walls were left bare, others plastered and painted in the same pale blue as the reception area, providing visual continuity. Just outside the bedroom door, a custom-built spiral iron staircase with wooden treads leads up to the second level. An accretion, already there when the present owner took over the house, has been turned into a living room with a terrace used for entertaining. There’s wooden decking on the floor and new wooden louvres provide privacy and shelter. n

82

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

T&F CONTEMPORARY

AHOME OFONE’S

OWN 84

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

CONTEMPORARY T&F

Project team: Forward Architects Photography: Jeremy Debattista Styling: Enrica Pizzuto from Eclecticist

When a place you want to call home is not quite right for you, you can sell up and move on or call in the experts.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

85

T&F CONTEMPORARY

W

hen it comes to setting up home, it takes more than a checklist – bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, living room, laundry – to find the right one. In a dream world, you walk into a place and find that it fits like the proverbial glove. In the real world, things work out a bit differently.

In its original incarnation, this flat ticked a few of the right boxes on anyone’s list – a good location in a quiet but central area, lots of natural light, warmed by the sun thanks to its south-facing orientation, and proximity to an established garden. But it did not feel right. Its 120 square-metre floor space was boxed off into separate rooms linked by a long corridor. Walls separated the kitchen, dining room and living room. It was a traditional layout, but not the best set up for contemporary living.

86

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

Cinnamon raw oak extra matt WOOD PARQUET DISEGNO | DIS4979S MRIEHEL BYPASS, QORMI 21 499 699 info@rliving.com.mt quick-step.it

T&F CONTEMPORARY

T

he arrangement is not unusual, but increasingly, as lifestyles change and living spaces shrink, the partitioning between the public areas of our homes are steadily disappearing.

The compartmentalised layout of this apartment did not suit the current owner’s way of living, and so Forward Architects were brought in to reshape and personalise its interior architecture and design.

88

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

00356 2792 2222 OLD RAILWAY TRACK, ST VENERA

WWW.BRIDGEPOINTMALTA.COM

T&F CONTEMPORARY

Thanks to its south-facing orientation and windows on three sides, the apartment enjoys plenty of natural light at most times of day.

90

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

CONTEMPORARY T&F

F

orward Architects do not produce a particular, standard look. They work collaboratively with their clients, getting to know them and their lifestyle to tailor their architecture and interiors according to personal needs. It’s this individualised approach that turned an outdated apartment into a wholly personal space.

The “raw material” was promising. Thanks to its southfacing orientation and windows on three sides, the apartment enjoys plenty of natural light at most times of day, and it has the added (and increasingly rare) value of overlooking an established garden with views of the sea in the distance.

Forward’s client wanted to open up the space, bringing the kitchen, dining and living areas together, maximising the social spaces and giving them the best views.

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

91

T&F CONTEMPORARY

F

orward Architects removed the central corridor, absorbing the space into the main living area, moved the home office into one of the bedrooms, and hid the master bedroom and spare bedroom behind flush doors.

Bespoke, built-in furniture screens off the office space from the open-plan kitchen. A bathroom and guest bedroom lead off from the study, their doors disguised within the raw wood of the study walls.

The finishes are natural and uncomplicated: except for the microcement floor in the bathroom, the flooring is in oak parquet throughout the apartment, the paneling is in plywood, walls are finished in white, furnishing and fittings are unfussy. The colour scheme is neutral, the lines are clean, the look is smooth, the overall atmosphere tranquil – just what you would want to come home to at the end of a busy day. n

92

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

DESIGNED BY GRETA DESIGN

Surfacing the most beautiful spaces

Flooring in Ariostea, Table Top and Fireplace in Bronzo Armani Marble

HALMANN VELLA LTD, The Factory, Mosta Road, Lija. LJA 9016. Malta

www.halmannvella.com T: (+356) 21 433 636

E: info@halmannvella.com

T&F TRENDS

u The Boatyard Distillery Winter Solstice Gin is distilled using carefully selected ingredients that sing the warmth of winter while keeping true to the Fermanagh roots. While retaining their juniper forward method, the head distiller Orlaith has used deconstructed Christmas puddings in the distillation to release the natural flavours of candied orange, raisin, clove, nutmeg, ginger and star anise.

French Sauternes dessert wine has been added to the gin to bring a touch of natural sweetness to the final spirit.

This product will be launched this month at Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd. Tel: +356 2156 3231, viniecapricci@abrahams.com.mt, www.viniecapricci.com

p Marsovin’s 100th Anniversary. To commemorate this special occasion, Marsovin has produced a series of large format bottles, all packaged by hand at the winery in 75cl, Magnum, Double Magnum, Jeroboam and Melchior. The wine is a cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Ġellewża Imqadded, a faithful expression of a unique blend developed to portray the very best of the 2017 vintage. u Pascual Greek style yoghurts are made with high quality natural ingredients and have no preservatives. Indulge in the creamy and heavenly goodness of Pascual Creamy Delight Greek-style Yoghurt in three different flavours: plain sweetened (natural), vanilla (gluten-free) and fruits of the forest (glutenfree). Its rich and premium quality taste, perfectly complements your favourite cereals, nuts and fruits. Find Pascual Greek style yoghurts at your preferred supermarket or convenience store.

Follow Pascual on Facebook: www.facebook.com/PascualMalta u Meridiana Wine Estate’s Nexus DOK Malta is a premium red wine made exclusively from hand-picked locally grown Merlot grapes.

Nexus has a clear, deep, purple-red colour; intense, ripe, cherry-plum aromas; and rich, well-structured, fruit flavours with soft tannins and a long finish. For more information about Meridiana’s complete range of wines please visit www.meridiana.com.mt or you may also find us on Facebook. Trade enquiries: S Rausi Trading, Stadium Street, Gzira. www.srausi.com

p S! Con Riso by Riso Scotti is the new delicious rice-based, lactose and milk protein free line perfect for any time of day. Intolerant to lactose, allergic to milk proteins or simply striving for a healthier diet? S! con riso products are the right choice for you without having to give up on flavour. They are also free from palm oil, hydrogenated fats, additives, and artificial colouring. Distributed by Francis Busuttil & Sons (Marketing) Ltd., tel +356 25497 000, www.fbsmarketing.com

94

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

DESIGN T&F

p THE LIGNAGE CONCEPT by PORCELANOSA Discover the design of the upcoming tradition. Lignage takes us back to those classic taps, while adopting a cutting-edge aesthetic that moves us to the design of the future. Its different formats, in single-lever, three-piece built-in set, make these taps adapt to different types of bathroom. Its uniqueness, exquisiteness and premium character lies in its finishes: chrome, gold glitter, brushed gold, brushed titanium and brushed copper. Another of its hallmarks is the handle. With a functional and subtle design, the lever has three finishes: smooth with textures, which transport us to a more retro version of the pieces. The Lignage taps are also available for the shower and the bath, the latter being floor mounted. Available from Satariano, Valley Road, Birkirkara.

p Dekton by Cosentino is a sophisticated blend of the raw materials used to produce the very latest in glass and porcelain as well as the highest quality quartz work surfaces. Dekton is high in UV resistance and highly scratch resistant. It is also resistant to stains, heat, fire, abrasion and ice. Thanks to Dekton’s size and lightness (size up to 320 x 144 cm) the possibilities for new designs in kitchens, bathrooms, façades, walls or high-traffic flooring are endless.

Halmann Vella is the exclusive supplier of Dekton in Malta.

Birdie by FOSCARINI interprets the shape of the classic free-standing lamp with a contemporary twist, translating it into a family of poetic ceiling lamps.

Available with 3, 6 or 9 arms, Birdie can distinguish an entire room with its multiple games of shapes, colours and lights. Foscarini lights are conceived as design objects that transform spaces, bringing in beauty and stirring emotions.

Available at Elektra Ltd.

Freedom to Dream - Ecletto bed by San Giacomo... or rather an eclectic bed with a simple concept yet very flexible design. The headboard is available in veneer finish or upholstered leather with drawers and units in matt lacquer. Available from Satariano, 122, Valley Road, Birkirkara.

p Take a closer look at the Bridgepoint BP66 Parisio Rose Gold Finish series. This vibrant, yet classic colour has been gaining popularity for the past few months. The range incorporates style and sophistication with a traditional feel. A large variety of products can be found in this colour, all from stock. Visit Bridgepoint in Psaila Street, Santa Venera for more information or visit their website and shop online on bridgepointmalta.com

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

95

T&F IN SEASON

THE OLIVE TREE

BY MEGAN MALLIA

I

n the book of Genesis, Noah sends out a dove and waits for its return.

One day, it comes back, carrying a freshly plucked olive leaf in its beak, and Noah knows that the waters of the deluge have receded and dry land isn’t far away. The olive tree, is characterised by its resilience. Its wood is resistant to decay and, as the old trunk dies, a new one usually grows in its place.

In classical Greek mythology, the olive tree came into being during a competition held to pick a protector for a newly built city. The contestants stepped forward: on one side stood Athena, goddess of wisdom, and on the other was Poseidon, god of the sea.

Poseidon struck a rock with his trident, unleashing a spring of saltwater. Where Athena touched the ground with her spear, an olive tree sprouted, promising peace and fruitfulness, a source of sustenance, oil for lamps, and wood for construction. The tree was chosen as the winning gift and Athena proclaimed the victor. The goddess was made the city’s protector, lending it her name, and so Athens came into being.

Scientifically known as Olea europaea, the olive tree is synonymous with the Mediterranean and its fruit and their oil have been a staple in Mediterranean cuisine since ancient

times. The “liquid gold”, as Homer called the oil, was one of the three prime foods in the ancient Western world, the others being grain and grapes. Beyond its gastronomic qualities, however, olive oil has been used in other ways, from lamps to soap, perfume and cosmetics.

The olive tree’s fruit is considered to be the same kind as that of the peach or plum: a drupe, as it has only a single seed at its heart.The tree blooms in late spring when delicate clusters of creamcoloured blossoms appear in the leaves’ axils. The tree is wind-pollinated, and some flowers are actually selfpollinating, meaning that they can more easily bear fruit.

The olive tree has left an indelible mark on Maltese culture. Some localities’ names are a nod to the tree and its oil - just think of Birżebbuġa, żebbuġa, Żebbuġ and Żejtun.. The oldest Maltese cultivar is believed to be the Bidni olive, said to date back to Roman times. Its oil is rich in polyphenols and very low in acidity, good for health and quite pleasing to taste. The olives it produces, which are small and elliptical, are deep violet in colour. A prime example of resilience, the Bidni is very resistant to environmental factors such as wind and drought, and pests such as the olive fruit fly. n

The next issue of

will be out on 6 December with The Malta Independent

96

ISSUE 134 NOVEMBER 2020

“The Mediterranean ends where the olive ceases to grow.”

Georges Duhamel, (1884-1966)

For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt

PAY THIRD PARTIES FROM ANYWHERE New feature now available on your BOV Mobile App.

Talk to us | 2131 2020 | bov.com Issued by Bank of Valletta p.l.c., 58, Triq San Żakkarija, Il-Belt Valletta VLT 1130. Bank of Valletta p.l.c. is a public limited company regulated by the MFSA and is licensed to carry out the business of banking in terms of the Banking Act (Cap. 371 of the Laws of Malta).