The Lombok Guide January 2024

Page 1

The

January 2024 | FREE COPY

LOMBOK GUIDE 0822 8000 6920 | www.thelombokguide.com

PUBLISHED MONTHLY IN LOMBOK, FOR LOMBOK

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GETTING TO

LOMBOK Lombok International Airport (abbreviated to LIA with the IATA code “LOP”) is the only operating airport on Lombok. The official name of the airport is Zainuddin Abdul Madjid International Airport, and you will sometimes see “Mataram” or “Praya” on ticketing, but they all refer to Lombok’s airport. The airport is close to Praya (Central Lombok); approximately 40km south of Mataram City, and around 1 hour drive from Senggigi and 25 minutes from Kuta. The airport’s terminal is divided into international and domestic sections, with shared arrival and departure areas, and separate boarding lounges. There is no duty-free shopping at the airport but shops and souvenirs, ATMs, and food outlets are easily available. Airport departure tax is included in the price of all tickets. INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Lombok International Airport has full Visa on Arrival (VOA) facilities, including 30 day “Visa Free” (no charge) for tourists. Ph: (+62) 817 1753 5751. Air Asia operates direct flights between Lombok and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia every day. Flights are onboard A320 Airbus and flight time is approx. 3 hours. Book cheap flights through the AirAsia website. www.airasia.com Super Air Jet (a low-cost airline based in Jakarta) also flies between Lombok and Kuala Lumpur every day. www.superairjet.com Scoot Airlines (a low-cost subsidiary of Singapore Airlines) flies direct between Lombok and Singapore, four times per week (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday). Flights are onboard A320 Airbus and flight time is approx. 3 hours. www.flyscoot.com

Although direct international flights to Lombok are limited at present, international flights to Bali and Jakarta – or to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur – connect Lombok to all major destinations around the world including Europe, the UK, Amsterdam, Thailand and more. BALI TO LOMBOK BY AIR It’s easy to get to Lombok from Bali – flight time is only around 45 minutes. Buy tickets online, or direct from the airline counters at the domestic airports, or contact local travel agents in both Bali and Lombok. In Lombok, all flights depart and arrive at Lombok International Airport. In Bali, flights arrive and depart at the domestic terminal at Ngurah Rai (Denpasar) Airport. Citilink has two direct flights between Lombok and Bali every day with a free 10kg baggage allowance. www.citilink.co.id Wings Air / Lion Air flies between Bali and Lombok up to four times daily. The companies code-share, so you purchase tickets through the Lion Air website for a Wings Air flight. Note: tickets include no luggage allowance; book pre-paid baggage through their website. www.lionair.co.id DOMESTIC FLIGHTS European connections are easy via Jakarta (the capital city of Java), Bali and other capital cities such as Jogjakarta and Surabaya. Direct flights to Lombok from Bali, Jakarta, Jogjakarta and Surabaya are available from multiple airlines every day and are usually timed to connect with European flights. Air Asia operates direct flights between Lombok and Surabaya every day. www.airasia.com Batik Air flies direct between Lombok and Jakarta every day. www.batikair.com Citilink has direct flights between Lombok and Jakarta, and Lombok and Surabaya, three times a week. www.citilink.co.id

Garuda Indonesia has direct flights daily between Lombok and Jakarta. www.garuda-indonesia.com BALI TO LOMBOK BY SEA Padang Bai Harbour (east Bali) provides the sea link between mainland Bali and Lombok. Lembar Harbour (Lombok) is on the southwest coast, approx. 1 hour from both Senggigi and Kuta. Arrange transport and buy tickets direct from the ticket office at the harbours, or use a reputable tour company to provide a transfer service. Public Ferries run 24 hours a day and depart every hour for the sea crossing between Bali and Lombok. The fare is Rp 62,200 per person and the trip takes approx. 4 to 5 hours, depending on sea conditions. It’s a slow but scenic ferry trip and the cheapest way to travel between the islands. It’s also useful if you want to take a motorcycle (approx. Rp 160,000) or small car (approx. Rp 1,127,000). FAST BOATS There are numerous fast boat services operating between Bali and Lombok every day, via the Gili Islands. All fast boats must stop at Bangsal Harbour in North Lombok for port clearance, so it is possible to reach mainland Lombok using any of the fast boat services to the Gilis. See our Gili Guide for more. Gili Getaway operates several comfortable fast boats connecting Bali and mainland Lombok (including Gili Gede in southwest Lombok) from Serangan Harbour on Bali. www.giligetaway.com Eka Jaya offers fast boat connections between Bali (Padang Bai Harbour) and Senggigi (West Lombok). Boats arrive and depart from the Senggigi Jetty, right in the centre of Senggigi Beach. www.ekajayafastboat.com


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4 Dear Readers Greetings and a very Happy New Year from The Lombok Guide! It’s been a busy time in Lombok over the past few weeks. Everyone gets into the spirit with Christmas parties, turkey dinners, and a big islandwide celebration to welcome a new year. As the fireworks die down and 2024 begins, we’re looking to a bright future as more people are travelling again and discovering the many attractions of Lombok. January also means the start of the monsoon or ‘rainy season’ in Indonesia and in Lombok, the jungles and hillsides turn bright green again, the rivers are flowing and the waterfalls are at their most magnificent. But don’t worry – rainy season doesn’t mean that it rains all day, or even that it rains every day. As a general rule, the mornings tend to be bright and sunny, with clouds rolling in for the afternoon, when there might be a thunderstorm or just a brief shower before the skies clear again for a beautiful starry evening. Rainy season is the time for visiting waterfalls, getting the adrenaline pumping with a river rafting trip, visiting the mall and catching a movie, indulging in an afternoon of pampering in a luxurious spa… or just discovering the simple pleasure of swimming in the warm rain! So don’t let the thought of a bit of rain put you off, Lombok is paradise at any time of the year! Whether you are a first-time visitor to Lombok or a seasoned traveller returning for the tenth time, The Lombok Guide is committed to provide you with the information you need – attractions and activities, places to visit and things to see – all brought together in one convenient Guide. The island awaits… welcome to the magic of Lombok!

Contents The Lombok Guide Page 2 Page 4 Page 6 Page 8 & 10 Page 12 & 13 Page 14 Page 16 & 18 Page 20 Page 22 Page 26 Page 28 Page 30 Page 32 & 33 Page 36 Page 38,39,40 Page 42 & 44 Page 48 Page 49 - 55 Page 52 Page 57 - 60 Page 56 Page 61

Getting to Lombok Contents Lombok Map SCAN FOR DIGITAL Getting Around VERSION Best in Lombok Senggigi Map Senggigi & The West Coast Kuta Has a New Shopping Mall Hot in the Bok! Distribution Meninting Bridge Repairs Begin Pasar Classified Rinjani Trekking Season Closed Bau Nyale Festival Next Month The Magnificent Waterfalls of Central Lombok The Cities The Cities Map Kuta & The South Coast Kuta Map The Southwest South Lombok Map Useful Contacts

The Gili Guide Page 2 & 4 Page 6 Page 8 - 15 Page 16 Page 18 & 19

Getting to the Gilis The Gilis Map The Gilis, Lombok's Three Iconic Islands Gili Islands Fast Facts Best in the Gilis


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8

GETTING

AROUND LOMBOK INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is a relatively small airport that handles domestic flights between Bali, Jakarta and other Indonesian cities, and international flights to and from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Getting to the Airport: Lombok Taxi (Blue Bird) is the most convenient taxi operator throughout Lombok and will drop passengers directly in front of the departure terminal. Note: Lombok Taxi (Bluebird) cannot pick up passengers from inside the airport grounds. Otherwise, book an airport transfer through your hotel or a private car and driver service. There is ample parking at the airport and cars can be left overnight. From the Airport: taxis and private cars are available to meet all arriving flights. After collecting your baggage, head out of the exit doors of the terminal and through to the arrival hall. There are official taxi counters inside the arrival hall that will allocate you a fixed

price taxi to most destinations. Prices can be negotiated. Golden Bird Taxi is the premium branch of Blue Bird Taxi and offers regular taxis, limousine and car rental. Look for their desk in the arrival hall or WA 0859 5462 7000. There are also many private drivers waiting to offer rides to anywhere on the island. This is a good option if you are in a group or have a lot of luggage or sports equipment, such as surf boards. Negotiate a fixed price before you get in the vehicle. Organising an airport transfer with your hotel is often the easiest option, with the hotel driver meeting you on arrival and transferring you to your hotel in airconditioned comfort. Check with your hotel – charges are usually only slightly more than a taxi. Approximate taxi fares: Kuta Rp 150k; Selong Belanak Rp 250k; Sekotong Rp 400k; Senggigi Rp 250k; Mataram Rp 150k; Bangsal Harbour Rp 350k; Senaru Rp 500k.

Car rental kiosks are located at the arrival terminal and are open from 7am until 10pm daily. For low-cost airport transfers, the public DAMRI bus is the cheapest way to travel between the airport and Senggigi and Mataram. The air-conditioned buses seat around 40 passengers and operate a regular schedule of departures from 7am to 5pm every day. Buses to Mataram leave every hour and cost Rp 25,000. Buses to Senggigi leave every 90 minutes and cost Rp 35,000. The DAMRI counter is located inside the arrival hall and prices are clearly shown on sign board at the counter. The bus parks just outside the hall on the right. The helpful drivers tend to stop at popular points along the route. If you need to stop at a certain point, let the driver know and he will usually accommodate your request. Continued on Page 10


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Tourism Information Continued from Page 8

Around Lombok: Lombok is easy to get around. The roads are in good condition and there is little traffic, apart from in the cities. The island itself is only slightly smaller than Bali at 115km (70 miles) long and 80km (50 miles) wide; however, it is not practical to drive around Lombok in one day. Taxis are easily available in most areas on Lombok apart from Kuta, Lombok. Unlike in other areas of Asia, all taxis use their meters (argo) to calculate fares, so there is no need to haggle a price. Lombok Taxi (operated by Blue Bird Taxi, light blue colour) is the largest company in Lombok and you will find them in the cities and around tourist areas such as Senggigi. Express Taksi (white cars) are also available, mainly in the cities. Taxis can be used to make trips to Kuta or Lembar and Bangsal Harbours and, if you are shopping or making day trips by taxi, ask the driver to wait and leave the meter running. Fares are still very low compared to those in the west. Short trips around Senggigi will cost around Rp 30,000; a taxi from Senggigi to Mataram is around Rp 80,000. Phone for a taxi or ask your hotel to phone, or flag one down from the side of the road. Make sure the driver starts the meter when you get in. Download the “My Blue Bird” app to book taxis easily. The app is also handy for calculating distances and fares when planning trips and the fare will give you a general idea of the rate you should be negotiating with a private driver. Lombok Taxi (Blue Bird), ph: 0370 627 000 (or download the ‘My Blue Bird’ App from Play Store, App Store or from the Blue Bird Group website). www.bluebirdgroup.com Gojek and Grab also operate in most areas of Lombok (apart from Kuta on the south coast). Download the apps for easy transport options via car or motorbike. Note that taxis can drop off guests in Kuta but cannot pick up from Kuta. If you are staying in Kuta, the best options are to ride a motorbike or hire a car and driver. Cars and Motorbikes can be hired in Lombok and driving yourself is easy. Cars drive on the left-hand side of the road (as in the UK). Car hire can be arranged at the airport and car rental companies in Mataram. However, self-drive car hire isn’t popular in Lombok and most will include a driver. Modern, air-conditioned cars that comfortably seat

4 - 5 people with a driver can be hired for between Rp 600 - 700,000 per day, including petrol and basic insurance. A private car and driver can be arranged in all the tourism areas, either through your hotel or from talking to the drivers that hang around on the streets looking for customers. Negotiate a price and what is included in the rate (petrol, duration of hire, waiting time, entrance fees if you are visiting attractions, etc). It’s easy to arrange transport this way, whether for a short trip to a restaurant or a full day of exploring. Motorbikes are the most popular form of transport and are generally small, light 110 - 125cc motorbikes with automatic transmission. Modern and economical scooters, such as a Honda Vario, are easy to ride. Expect to pay between Rp 60 - 75,000 per day for motorbike rental, depending on age and type. Both require an international drivers’ licence. Do wear a helmet and appropriate shoes when riding a motorbike and don’t decide that Lombok is the place to learn to ride! Apart from the dangers from other riders and a general disregard for road rules, there can be unexpected hazards such as dogs, chickens, cows and children running into the road. Tours are readily available in all the tourist areas, and drivers and guides are licensed by the local Kotasi (tour organisation), who also regulate prices in the industry. Most tour operators are reliable and will have a wealth of local knowledge, which can make touring a more rewarding experience. It is also the most comfortable way to explore the island, as you have time to sit back and observe, rather than negotiating traffic and unfamiliar roads. Popular tours, such as day trips to waterfalls or traditional villages, are structured to take in a full day of sightseeing with stops at other points

of interest along the way. Tours range between Rp 350 -700,000 a day for a driver and an air-conditioned vehicle for up to 4 passengers, depending on distances and the number of places visited. * Prices are approximate. Expect to pay higher prices during peak seasons. Useful Tip: WhatsApp is the most popular messaging service in Indonesia. Download the app to your phone for convenient messaging and phone calls to Lombok businesses wherever there is internet available. Luggage Storage in Bali: If you’re travelling with too much baggage or extra equipment such as surfboards, you can take advantage of a great offer from Bali Wake Park in Benoa, just 5 minutes from the airport. Spend some time trying out their fun range of water sports or simply have a drink and a meal before or after your trip to Lombok and the Park will give you free storage facilities until you return. If you have a late flight, you can spend the afternoon swimming and have a cold beer before you head to the airport. See advert on The Gili Guide Page 17.



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BEST IN

LOMBOK Photo by Asriel Haryadi

While certainly not for the faint of heart during the wet season, each participant is kitted out with a helmet, life-vest and water safety training, and a guide remains with you at all times. Most companies also include a traditional Indonesian lunch too. Dry season has more of a lazy river feel to it and can be a pleasurable way to pass the day. GOLF Sire Beach Golf Club is located on the shores of Sire Beach in northwest Lombok, close to the Oberoi and Tugu hotels. It is less than one hour’s drive from Senggigi or a short speedboat ride from the Gilis. This world-class course was designed by Thomson, Wolveridge and Perrett, who have respected the unique setting and contours of the location. The 18-hole, par 72 championship course (6245 meters) offers world-class challenges for golfing enthusiasts of all levels.

Lombok Rafting

WHITE WATER RAFTING When the wet season arrives, head to the Lingsar area in northwestern Lombok where you can enjoy whitewater rafting (even in the rain). A day of rafting promises to provide exactly the adrenaline boost you’re seeking! A relatively new addition to the Lombok list of things to do, the rapids range from Grade II in the dry season to grade IV in the wet. The best time to visit is during the rainy season when the flow is faster and the surrounding landscapes are lush and green. Rafting expeditions are made up of stretches of relatively calm rafting where you can take in the jungle views and unique insights into village life along the river, with local families going about their day, washing clothes, bathing or farming by the river.

These stretches are broken up by white water and exciting rapids of varying intensity, guaranteed to get your heart racing!

Extraordinary views from different holes overlook Sire Beach and the ocean to the Gili Islands, and magnificent mountain views to the east with Mt Rinjani towering in the distance. Rates include green fees, caddy and cart hire. Golf clubs are also available for hire. Visit: sirebeachgolfclub.com Photo by Neil Cave


13 Perched over the waters of the bay, the AUTORE showroom has views of the dramatic Rinjani mountain range on the mainland, and to the east, over the buoys of the pearl farm to the three Gili Islands floating in the sparkling sea just minutes away. Guests visiting the AUTORE Pearl Farm have the opportunity to discover how the rare and beautiful South Sea pearls are produced in Lombok, with knowledgeable guides explaining the intricate processes of modern cultured pearl farming – from how the oysters are seeded, the growing process, harvesting and grading the pearls, through to the end result – the stunning pearls on display in their showroom. SURFING Lombok is a world-renown surfing heaven amongst surf enthusiasts world-wide and, more than any other island in Indonesia, Lombok offers year-round surf, with peak months between April and October. Even in the wet season, warm waters and uncrowded waves await. Kuta, on the south coast, is surf-central and has a range of accommodations and facilities especially for surfers. Here you can hire a board, get board repairs and take surf lessons from the professionals. To take your surfing experience to the next level, join one of the many surf camps and retreats available year-round. Beginners and intermediate surfers should head to the steady, consistent waves found in the south at Selong Belanak. There are a number of places on the beach that hire boards by the hour and surf coaches patiently instruct beginners on the art of surfing. aves at Gerupuk and Tanjung Aan offer a variety of challenges from beginners to sheer madness! Tanjung Aan has consistent surf all year round, while Gerupuk has five surf breaks and is suitable for all levels. Ekas Bay has two surf breaks: Inside Ekas and Outside Ekas with waves suitable for beginners to experts, depending on the season. West from Kuta, you’ll find surf at Mawi, Are Guling, Tampah and more. Make friends with the locals to find more hidden surfing gems! Huge waves and challenging surf lure die-hards to Bangko-Bangko (also known as Desert Point) on the south-western tip of Lombok. Only for the experienced and brave, Desert Point is regarded as one of the best waves in the world! At certain times of the year when conditions are right, you’ll also find locals

surfing the breaks at Senggigi and Mangsit Beach, and off Gili Air and Gili Trawangan. Lombok is an island that loves to surf! VISIT A PEARL FARM Lombok is famous for its pearls and the island is often referred to as “Pearl Island”, attracting buyers from all over Indonesia and the rest of the world to purchase these beautiful and precious “gems of the sea”. Lombok is fortunate to have one internationally renowned pearl trader based on the island. The AUTORE Group is one of the largest South Sea pearl companies in the world and has pearl farms in Lombok, Sumbawa (the island to the east of Lombok) and West Java, in addition to their main operations in Australia. AUTORE operate a unique visitors’ centre and showroom at their pearl farm located in the calm bay of Teluk Nara on Lombok’s west coast.

The Pearl Farm Tour consistently receives excellent reviews on TripAdvisor and is a fascinating and highly recommended tour for visitors to Lombok. The visitor’s centre is just offshore at Teluk Nara harbour, only 25 minutes north of Senggigi, and can be easily reached by car or taxi from Senggigi, or by boat from any of the Gili Guide. See page 3 for details. *** Getting around Lombok is easy by car or motorbike and you can hire these in all the main tourism areas, with an International Driver’s License. The roads are generally in good condition and traffic is light. Alternatively, hire a car and driver for exploring. Or take part in the tours and day trips by the many tour agencies on the island offering these tours; just do an internet search for the title (e.g. “surfing Lombok”, “dirt bikes Lombok”, “rafting Lombok”, etc.)


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THE WEST COAST Senggigi, with its strategic location, emerges not only as a wonderful holiday destination but as a gateway to the myriad attractions that Lombok offers. Senggigi is the oldest established tourism area on Lombok’s West Coast and is around a one-hour drive northwest of Lombok International Airport. Its central location makes Senggigi an ideal base for exploring the island. The waterfalls, golf courses, Lombok Wildlife Park and other attractions in the north are only an hour or so drive away and Bangsal Harbour (the main harbour for boats to the Gilis) can be reached in less than an hour. The historic attractions of Lingsar and Narmada, and Benang Stokel Waterfall to

the east, are around an hour’s drive from Senggigi, while the cities are less than an hour away. The Senggigi tourism strip stretches for about 10km, starting a few kilometres before central Senggigi and running north along the coastal road, with many hotels and restaurants positioned along the beautiful beaches that line the west coast. A few kilometres south of Senggigi, The Hill (locally called The Bukit), is a residential community perched on the hillside in Batu Layar. The homes and villas here feature architectural designs and have magnificent views over the ocean. Closer to Senggigi, Batu Bolong forms a strip between the historic Batu Bolong Temple and the southern gateway to Senggigi. One of the most spectacular sights on the island is the sunset viewed from Senggigi and along the west coast, which faces toward Bali across the ocean. It is a magical sight watching the bright orange sun sinking into the sea and Bali’s Gunung Agung volcano silhouetted on the horizon like a giant pyramid floating in the ocean.

Pura Batu Bolong (literally meaning “rock with a hole”), was renovated in 2010 and is an interesting Hindu temple on a cliff facing Bali across the Lombok Strait. Built on a large rocky outcrop with a hole at the base, from which the temple takes its name, it is said that virgins were once sacrificed to the sea from the seat-like rock at the outermost point. Colourful Hindu ceremonies are held here every month at the dark and full moons, and at Hindu festival times. Admission and rental of a compulsory sarong and temple sash is by donation. This is a great place to watch the sunset, with fantastic views across the ocean to Gunung Agung on Bali Just before the entrance to Senggigi. directly across the road from Café Alberto is the entrance to the Green Valley residential area. Senggigi Beach is the large bay that forms the centrepiece of Senggigi. The main road runs parallel to the beach and large resorts occupy the space between, with Merumatta Senggigi at the southern end and the Sheraton Senggigi Beach Resort at the northern end of the bay. Continued on Page 18

Senggigi Sunset by Ashley Kelly

Senggigi Bay by Neil Cave

SENGGIGI &

Tourism Information


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Tourism Information

Senggigi Beach by Neil Cave Continued from Page 16

The beach is a wide protected bay with promontories at each end. The beach is lovely for swimming and relaxing but can become crowded on Sundays and public holidays.

About 2 km north of central Senggigi, Kerandangan has a popular beach nearby and a road leading into a residential area situated in a pretty valley.

Roughly in the centre of the bay is the Senggigi Jetty where the fast boat from Bali arrives and departs. Visiting yachts often anchor in the calm waters of the bay.

At the end of the road through Kerandangan Valley is the Taman Wisata Alam – Kerandangan Nature Reserve – with hiking paths leading through the rain forest along the river. There is a Ranger’s hut and basic visitors centre near the entrance. The Park boasts a small waterfall, pretty river scenery, families of local monkeys, and a variety of tropical plants and birdlife.

In the early mornings, enjoy a stroll along the beach looking out to the ocean dotted with the bright, colourful sails of fishing boats, as the local fishermen return with the day’s catch. Senggigi Reef, off the southern point, has good coral for snorkelling during high tide. To the left of the reef, Anjungan is a popular surf spot and, in the right conditions, has some decent surf breaks. When the tides are high, local surfers can be seen catching the waves here every day. Canoes can be hired from the beach on the weekends and during peak tourism times. Local outrigger boats (perahu) can be chartered from the beachfront for trips along the coast or out to the Gili Islands. In the centre of the bay is the Pasar Seni (Art Markets) with small shops selling handicrafts, clothing, sarongs, jewellery and other souvenirs. Lining the beach side of the Markets are small restaurants for dining. Come for a drink at sunset and enjoy delicious meals from the beachfront restaurants with the waves lapping only metres away.

Further north, Mangsit has developed as an accommodation alternative to Senggigi, with some of the best boutique hotels positioned along the breath-taking beaches of this section of coast. There is good snorkelling in front of Puri Mas Beach Resort at high tide and, when the wind is right, surfers take to the waves in front of Qunci Villas. Furthest north is Klui, Lendang Luar and Setangi, with a long stretch of pristine beach at Lendang Luar. Mainly deserted white sand beaches, flanked by coconut groves continue all the

way north along the main coastal road. Malimbu and Nipah are two picturesque bays less than half an hour from Senggigi, which are good for snorkelling, swimming and getting away from it all.

Whether you are seeking a tranquil interlude with luxury accommodation at a top resort with fine dining and spa facilities, or a budget holiday with days spent exploring – or all the choices in between – Senggigi caters for all tastes and budgets. Swim, snorkel, dive, hike, lie in the sun, have a massage, eat and drink at some of the great restaurants and bars in town; or just take a break and be enchanted by the unspoiled beauty of Lombok’s west coast.

Away from the beach, the main road (Jalan Raya Senggigi) is lined with cafés and restaurants, shops, spas, tour agencies, bars and nightclubs; many of which have live music in the evenings. There are convenience stores and supermarkets, numerous ATM’s, banks, money changers, a post office and other tourist facilities.

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20

KUTA HAS A

Local News

NEW SHOPPING MALL

Kuta has a new addition to its local shopping scene with the recent completion of the Oceanside Mandalika. The large white Colonial-style building occupies a prime location on Jalan Pariwisata Pantai Kuta, opposite Kemangi Restaurant.

Accommodation ranges from standard and superior double and twin rooms, to junior suite and executive suite options. All rooms have air conditioning, satellite television, and Wi-Fi, and are in walking distance to the beach and central Kuta shops and restaurants.

The anchor tenant of the property is the Montana @ Oceanside Mandalika hotel – a 3-star hotel with 48 rooms and an onsite restaurant serving breakfast and Indonesian cuisine.

In addition to the hotel, the property is being marketed as an outdoor retail village with space for twenty-two shops and dining outlets, and six outdoor garden cafés. There is also a 350 sqm coworking space available. When we visited, the popular oleh-oleh centre Sasaku has opened an outlet on the far right of the complex. The store has a great range of gifts and souvenirs (oleh-oleh). Inside you’ll find a good selection of t-shirts and shirts for men, as well as children’s clothing and some summer dresses, pants and tops for women. There are also shoes, handbags and hats to complete your beach wardrobe.

Pick up a pretty hand-crafted basket or trinket box to take home as a gift, a traditional sarong, massage oils, or some Lombok coffee. There is also some lovely pearl jewellery, for which Lombok is famous. Now that the shopping village is completed, we’re looking forward to seeing more tenants move in over the coming months to create a lively shopping and café scene for Kuta.


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HOT IN THE

BOK!

Senggigi’s favourite massage and spa salon, Orchid Spa has just opened its second outlet in town. Located opposite BNI Bank on Main Street Senggigi, the new Orchid Spa is only 3 minutes’ walk from the original Orchid Spa in the centre of town. Inside you’ll find a spacious and cool interior, with soft lighting and comfortable chairs for reflexology, manicures and pedicures, together with massage tables, and hair care stations. The interior is accented with lovely artwork, bamboo and of course, orchids. Everything is brand new, clean and peaceful. Both Orchid Spas offer the same great range of massages, reflexology, nails (including gel nails), and other beauty treatments – all at fabulously low prices. Now you have the choice of two great outlets! See advert page xx. I don’t like noodles and I’m not particularly fond of Chinese food. Why is it then that, almost every time we visit Kuta, we head to Jiang Nan? There’s something about the way this quirky little eatery combines flavours and freshness that has me wanting more! The interior is cool and dimly lit, with a rustic décor of wooden tables, thatch and bamboo. It’s always filled with the hum of contented diners enjoying well-crafted food. Try the mouthwatering Pork Wonton drenched in rich Chili Oil or the Spicy Cumin Lamb Noodles with tender slices of lamb stir-fried with cumin and house-made flat noodles. Also highly recommended is the Spicy Prawn and Garlic noodle, with a generous serving of prawns tossed with hand-made noodles, garlic, chili, soy and black vinegar, and cucumber and bean sprouts to add some crunch. You’ll find Jiang Nan on Jl Raya Kuta, between Bush Radio and Blue Marlin Dive. On Wednesday night, all dumplings are just 30k!

There are many changes taking place at Lombok Epicentrum Mall and more to come over the next few months as Lombok’s most popular shopping centre prepares to add a new wing and many more new tenants! One of the newest retailers to open its doors is Sensatia Botanicals. Sensatia Botanicals is an Indonesian beauty care brand offering products made from certified natural ingredients. Made in Bali with ingredients sourced from all over

the world, all Sensatia Botanicals are free of parabens, SLS and silicones, without palm oil, synthetic colors and artificial fragrances. Best of all, the products are not tested on animals. Entering the store, shoppers are greeted with the lovely smell of essential oils from the range of hand-made soaps, body washes, shampoos, skin care and hand creams on offer. One interesting product, just recently launched, is the Fortifying Biotin Lash & Brow Serum. The serum contains three superior ingredients, namely biotin compounds, ginseng extract and sea buckthorn. Also known as vitamin B7, biotin can help strengthen and nourish eyelashes and eyebrows, while ginseng extract helps stimulate hair follicles to become thicker and healthier. In addition, sea buckthorn can keep eyelashes and eyebrows hydrated. Like all Sensatia products, the serum is gentle and free of harmful chemicals, so the product is safe for use by teenagers and those with sensitive skin. You’ll find Sensatia Botanicals on the lower level, near Sociolla – another of our favourite stores!


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28

Local News

MENINTING BRIDGE

REPAIRS BEGIN Repairs have finally started on the Meninting Bridge in West Lombok. The bridge across the Meninting River is part of the main access road between the north of the island and the cities, including the Senggigi tourist area. The lower section of the Meninting Bridge has been closed since 6 December 2021 when heavy rains caused flash floods in the area, submerging houses in more than a metre of water and causing the evacuation of dozens of residents. The bridge almost collapsed after the flooding caused erosion under the

bridge, weakening the foundations and cracking the road. Even the electricity poles positioned on the bridge collapsed, bringing the power lines down. Previously the bridge consisted of two sections: the lower section, a dual carriageway carrying traffic south, and the upper section, a dual carriageway carrying traffic to the north.

To facilitate traffic flow after the closure, the upper bridge was changed from its function as a oneway bridge into a dual carriageway, handling traffic travelling both north and south. The disruption to traffic flow over the past two years has caused many accidents and near-misses, with drivers confused by the direction of travel. A motorcyclist was killed in August when he accidentally entered the lower bridge at night. Meninting Bridge has 60 m span across the river supported by pillars, so that the span of the bridge is divided into two, namely a span of 35 m and 25 m. The bridge uses a post-tensioning system to be able to withstand bending, sliding, and torque. We have been unable to confirm when bridge repairs will finally be completed and the bridge re-opened, despite interviewing supervisors at the site. It is noted that the bridge is mentioned in the NTB 2024 budget, with an allocation of Rp 22.21 billion for repairs.

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32

Special Feature

RINJANI TREKKING SEASON CLOSED

But there are other options…

Segara Anak Lake by Iwan Haryanto

This year’s Rinjani trekking season is over and all trekking routes to Mount Rinjani – including Sembalun, Senaru, Torean and Timbanuh – are now closed. The Mount Rinjani National Park Authority has officially closed Rinjani volcano to trekking, effective from 1 January to 31 March 2024.

high winds can literally blow a person off the ridge. With the past few weeks of rainfall in Lombok, trying to climb the volcano in this weather is extremely dangerous. Heavy rains between now and April will no doubt cause landslides and slipping in unstable areas, making some of the paths hazardous.

During the closure, National Park Authorities will be able to assess what routes are safe and which need work prior to the 2024 trekking season, in addition to carrying out repairs to public facilities along the trekking routes. Some guides will tell trekkers that it is okay to climb during this time. That’s understandable, as they make their living from trekking and the three-month annual closure is tough for them. However, they are risking your life and entering the park illegally, with limited access to help if things go wrong. Save your plans for climbing Rinjani until after April, when the weather is nicer, and you can enjoy this amazing adventure in the way that it is meant to be experienced. The Mt Rinjani trekking season will open again from 1 April 2024.

Bukit Pergasingan by Joe Mahier

The Authority normally closes Lombok’s famous tourist attraction to trekking at the beginning of January every year to protect tourists from the dangers caused by bad weather during the monsoon season. Flash floods are common in the area and landslides make the climb to and from the crater rim dangerous, with the narrow, steep tracks becoming too slippery for climbing. In addition, strong winds make trekking perilous. Falling trees can block paths and

Finally, trekking Rinjani during the monsoon season is a miserable experience. It’s cold on the mountain at the best of times and with constant rain, the trip becomes a hard slog. Many times, the magnificent views are obscured by rain, mist and low clouds. Closing Rinjani each year is important to preserve the national park environment, allowing nature to regenerate from the tens of thousands of people who trek through it every year.

There are many alternatives to climbing Rinjani during the rainy season that will still allow visitors to experience the beauty of the mountains. Consider spending time in Sembalun, high on the eastern slope of the volcano and one of the two main gateways for climbing Rinjani. Surrounded by towering mountains and deep valleys, clear blue skies and lush greenery, the landscape of Sembalun is sublime. Rich volcanic soil and a cool mountain climate have created a fertile environment for farmers here to grow many crops not found in other parts of the island.


33

Special Feature

Sembalun by Barbara

Valleys are laid out in a patchwork of lush greens and golds, with fields of garlic, shallots, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce and strawberries. Nutritious red rice is the staple food grown in the area. Surrounding the valleys are ancient ridges, dramatic peaks and drop offs, and the ever-present Rinjani volcano towering above it all. From Sembalun, climb the nearby hill – Bukit Pergasingan – an epic viewpoint reached via a steep and challenging trail. From the top of the hill, panoramic views stretch out across the valleys and you get a true perspective of the majesty of this area, surrounded by the rugged, deeply grooved slopes and the soaring peaks of the volcanic mountain range and, of course, the queen of them all – Rinjani.

The best times to hike Bukit Pergasingan are before sunrise and sunset, to take in the glorious views. The trek is suitable for most hikers and, although you can do the climb on your own, the start of the trail isn’t easy to find so it’s best to take a local guide who can show you the way and help on some of the steep parts. Some of the local trekking businesses will arrange overnight camping on the hill when weather permits. This is an awesome experience with the clear sky above filled with stars at night and waking to the stunning view of the sunrise over the mountains the next morning. There are many other treks available from Sembalun. Hike through huge bamboo forests and rustic villages, walk amongst

Sembalun by Olly Gasper

verdant green farmlands with local people planting or harvesting their crops, and discover the raw beauty of the rarelyvisited Mangku Sakti Waterfall. Treks are easily organized online and through local tour operators in the village – just do an online search for any of the places of interest mentioned in this article. For those who love adventure travel and getting lost in nature, Sembalun is the perfect alternative to climbing Rinjani. Sembalun by Barbara




36

Local News

theatrical re-enactment of the “Princess Mandalika” legend… an important story in the traditional Sasak history of the island.

BAU NYALE FESTIVAL

NEXT MONTH Lombok’s famous Bau Nyale Festival will take place in February this year.

who eagerly wade into the waters to catch them when they appear.

“Bau Nyale”, literally meaning “to hunt Nyale” in the local Sasak language, is one of Lombok’s most important and popular festivals; a cultural tradition, deeply rooted in local legend, and unique to the island of Lombok.

Bau Nyale takes place close to the full moon, and is celebrated in either February or March each year.

The Nyale are a type of sea worm (Palolo) found in tropical waters in certain parts of the world, including Lombok. Once a year, the Nyale come to certain beaches around Lombok to spawn and for a few days, the seas are filled with wriggling sea worms in a variety of colours. The sea worms are rich in protein and believed to be an aphrodisiac, and are considered a rare delicacy for Sasak people,

Over the years, the appearance of the Nyale has evolved into a major festival on the Lombok calendar of events. The festival is centred around Seger Beach near Kuta on the south coast and features several days of exciting and fascinating cultural events including Peresean (stick fighting) competitions and Gendang Beleq, the big drums of Lombok. There will be markets and other traditional performances, live music, parades and, at the peak of the festival, a fantastic dramatic

The crowning of Princess Mandalika each year is an exciting time for local girls, who are going through the selection process this month to see who will win the honour of representing Lombok’s favourite historical princess this year. Princess Mandalika will be crowned during the festival and has an important role in the parade that takes place every year. The parade also features traditional dance and music, with participants dressed in costumes from the different regions of Lombok. The date of the festival each year is determined at the Sangkep Warige Bau Nyale, which is a traditional meeting of adat (customary) elders, indigenous groups, and community leaders. This is unique to Bau Nyale, when the implementation is not determined by the government but based on traditional methods of determining when the Nyale worms are most likely to appear. Sangkep Warige will be held in early January and the date of the festival will be announced shortly afterwards. If you are in Lombok in February, this is a must-see event!


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38

Special Feature

Benang Stokel is the first of the waterfalls and is easily accessed by a short walk from the paved parking area at the start of this national reserve. There is an admission charge, which includes the services of a guide, at the entrance area. The guides are friendly and knowledgeable, and will help carry your bag and take photos for you. There are also small stalls selling snacks and drinks nearby. If you would like to explore more of the waterfalls in this area, arrange this with a guide at the ticket office. The other falls are not easy to find and you will need assistance on the trek. Benang Stokel features two waterfalls falling more than 30 metres down a steep cliff face covered with ferns and jungle vegetation. Benang means “thread” in Bahasa Indonesia, and describes the thin streams of water that gush down the cliff, like silver threads.

THE MAGNIFICENT WATERFALLS OF

Central Lombok

Benang Setokel Waterfall by Barbara

The waterfall to the left is the higher of the two and is more powerful. The fall on the right side splashes into a small rocky pool at the bottom. Local people have come to these waterfalls for centuries to refresh themselves in the cool and serene atmosphere and to stand under the pounding waters, which they believe have healing properties.

Lombok offers visitors stunningly beautiful natural landscapes and some of the most popular tours for travellers include trekking through the jungles and rainforests to visit the island’s spectacular waterfalls. Two very special waterfalls are located in Central Lombok, around an hour and a half drive from either Senggigi or Kuta. These waterfalls are located in the village of Aik Berik in Central Lombok, about 27 km east of Mataram and less than one hour’s drive from the capital. The village is easily reached by car or motorbike and is set amongst pretty scenery, with green rice fields and verdant fruit orchards. The area boasts five stunning waterfalls, with the two most popular being Benang Stokel and Benang Kelambu – each within trekking distance of each other.

Photo by Didiek Hariadi


39 people. The view of Benang Kelambu at the end is worth every minute of the effort! At the end of the dirt track, a series of rock and cement steps leads down to the base of these magnificent waterfalls. In typical Indonesian style, these are steep and unevenly spaced with treads of varying widths, making the climb back up a good aerobic exercise! As soon as you reach the steps, the view of the falls spraying mist across the green hillside is breathtaking. This sort of jungle scenery is totally natural and simply stunning! Continued on Page 42

Photo by Krisztina Nemeth

Benang Stokel is now opening up as an alternative trekking route for people wishing to climb Lombok’s volcano, Mt Rinjani. Trekking through dense forest, the climb up to the crater rim takes between 6 and 8 hours and offers lots of variety, with the famed Tiara Dewi Anjani Waterfall as one of its highlights, as well as the possibility of seeing herds of deer. The area is also home to the rare black Ebony Leaf monkey, orchids, butterflies, vanilla orchids, cocoa and coffee trees. This route has been used for centuries by hunters and local people, and is perfect for trekkers looking for a completely different angle of approach to climbing Rinjani. After relaxing on one of the berugaq (resting pavilions) and having a splash in the cool water, it is relatively easy to make the trek to

Photo by Krisztina Nemeth

Photo by Krisztina Nemeth

the second set of waterfalls, around 30 to 45 minutes away. This is where it helps to have a guide. A small track leads up the incline through the jungle, twisting through the verdant rainforest of the surrounding hills. Although parts of the trek can be a bit slippery and arduous, the track is safe and can be navigated by most

Benang Kelambu Waterfall by Barbara


40

Benang Kelambu Waterfall by Olly Gasper

Kelambu means “net” in Indonesian and refers to the waterfalls, which spread out across the greenery like finely draped netting. There are five different waterfalls, each falling like veils through the lush ferns and jungle vines that cover the 40 metre high hillside. Large boulders embedded at different levels on the slope break the falls, splashing spray into the air and providing perfect lounging places to rest and let the fresh mists cool your body. At the base of the falls, the water splashes onto rocks and spills down steps into a man-made pool below, where you can swim. It is an idyllic place to relax, climbing the rocks and sitting under the falls to cool off, letting the water splash gently over you, or sitting on the rocks at the base,

gazing up at the sweeping sprays making rainbows above. Bring a picnic lunch to enjoy in the shade and spend a few hours drinking in the serene beauty of this lovely spot. It is possible to get a ride on a scooter to and from the main carpark to the top of the steps at Benang Kelambu. If you’re exhausted by the trek or have mobility issues, this is a good option but you will still need to negotiate the stairs. Wear sneakers or sturdy shoes and dress modestly out of respect for the local people. Shorts and a top are fine for swimming. Both waterfalls can get crowded on weekends and public holidays, as they are popular picnic destinations for local families, but during the week the area is an enchanting place to visit.

Photo by Barbara


41

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QUNCI VILLAS, Jl. Raya Mangsit, Senggigi, Lombok | WA Reservations: +62 821 4732 7446


42

42

THE

CITIES

The three main cities in Lombok – Ampenan, Mataram and Cakranegara – have expanded over the years and now merge together to create what is, for Lombok, an urban sprawl of shops, administrative centres and residential areas. A visit to the cities makes an interesting day trip, exploring the numerous shops selling everything imaginable from everyday items to gold and pearls, and to the Lombok Epicentrum Mall – Lombok’s main shopping mall. There are many pearl shops in Ampenan and the nearby village of Sekarbela that sell unset pearls and pearl jewellery at attractive prices. These are genuine pearls – some cheap quality from China and more expensive ones farmed in Lombok and Sumbawa. If you bargain the price, you can usually get a good deal. There are gold shops in both Ampenan and Cakra. The gold sold in Lombok, as with most Asian cities, is 24 karat gold and is sold by the gram at current market price.

For cheap and interesting food choices, explore the many restaurants, warung (local cafés) and food stalls in the cities. Especially in the late afternoon, stalls set up along the main streets selling fresh fish and seafood grilled over hot coals and coated with spicy sauce, satay skewers with spicy peanut sauce, and many other kinds of local street food. Or just wander around the streets to soak up the atmosphere and discover fascinating insights into Lombok life! Ampenan was the original port in Lombok during Dutch colonial times and some of the old architecture is still visible around the town, particularly toward the beach to the west, where the remnants of the port are slipping into the sea. The streets become a market at night, filled with warung and kaki lima (food carts) for cheap, tasty food and local flavour. Pasar Kebun Roek, just near the traffic lights in Ampenan (near the intersection to Senggigi), is the site of the local markets. Every day traders set up stalls

selling fresh produce from around the island, local snacks and products, live chickens and fresh fish in the afternoon when the fishing boats come in. A stroll through the markets is a pungent and enlightening experience! Mataram, about 3 km to the east of Ampenan, is the administrative centre for Lombok and Sumbawa (NTB Province), with government offices, banks, mosques, schools and colleges, bookstores, the main post office, and Mataram University downtown. In Mataram, the Nusa Tenggara Barat (NTB) Museum houses historical and cultural artefacts from Lombok and Sumbawa. It’s an interesting place to visit and occasionally hosts special exhibits. Displays include exhibits on geology, history and culture. Address: Jl Panji Tilar, Taman Sari. The Museaum is open from 8am to 3pm and there is a small admission fee. Cakranegara (usually abbreviated to “Cakra”) is Lombok’s main shopping area. It is also home to many Chinese and Balinese, who make up over 50 percent of the city’s population. The streets of the city make an interesting walk with gold shops, sporting goods, clothing and fabric stores selling imported silks, laces and cottons, to name a few. There is a local market at the main intersection in Cakra; turn right at the traffic lights and look for the entrance to the market on the left. Inside is a labyrinth of stalls selling everything from woven baskets to fresh flowers and local food. The next large town east of Cakra is Sweta. The Bertais Bus Terminal is located here for connections to the east of the island and beyond. Near the bus terminal there is a huge local market every day with all kinds of goods on sale, from foodstuffs to clothing, exotic birds, handicrafts and more. Continued on Page 44



44

Mayura Park

Continued from Page 42

Shopping Lombok Epicentrum Mall on Jl Sriwijaya (see cities map) is Lombok’s most modern shopping centre with four floors of retail outlets. The large, clean and air-conditioned complex houses a Hypermart Supermarket and a Matahari Department Store, as well as a Cinema XXI Movie Theatre and Timezone Entertainment Centre. There is a well-stocked Ace Hardware store, an Informa furniture store, a Mr DIY discount store, a Sociolla cosmetics shop and several pharmacies. Other retailers sell a wide variety of fashion including brand name stores, shoes, electronics, sporting goods, and much more. Food outlets include Burger King, KFC, J. Co, Starbucks, A&W and Pizza Hut, as well as many local eateries.

“Epicentrum” as it is known, makes a fun day out if you want some retail therapy and to pick up a bargain. It is also great for families, with entertainment and kids’ activities and a good movie theatre, as well as the fast-food options that they might be missing on holiday. Nearby Temples and Places of Interest It’s possible to combine a trip to the cities with a visit to some of the historic sites in the area. Pura Meru on Jl Selaparang, Cakranegara, was built in 1720 by Balinese Prince Anak Agung Made Karang and is the largest temple on Lombok. Its three meru are for the Hindu trinity – Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. This is an important temple for the Balinese here and its annual Pujawali festival, held over five days during the full moon in September or October, is the biggest Balinese Hindu event on Lombok. The outer courtyard hall has large drums used to announce ceremonies and festivals. In the central courtyard are two buildings with raised offering platforms.

The interior enclosure has 33 shrines as well as the three multi-tiered meru. Entry is Rp 20,000 per person, which includes the loan of a temple sash. Pura Mayura, just across the street from Pura Meru, was built in 1744 as the court temple of the last Balinese kings in Lombok. An open hall or bale kambang (floating pavilion) stands in the middle of a large artificial lake here and an interesting temple is sheltered under huge old trees at the rear of the lake. The gardens and the adjoining Pura Jagatnatha temple complex are a peaceful place to escape the bustle of the city and well worth exploring. Do use a guide to get the most out of your visit and understand the interesting history of the park. Taman Mayura is open every day, from 8am to 8pm; entry is Rp 20,000 per person. The gardens are popular on weekends so the best time to visit is during the weekdays.




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Tourism Information

KUTA MANDALIKA &

THE SOUTH COAST

49 In the past, Kuta offered mainly low budget hotels catering to the thousands of surfers from around the world who were drawn to the area every year. These days, there is a variety of accommodation to suit all budgets and tastes – from simple hostels and medium range hotels to wonderful boutique resorts and luxurious villas tucked away on the side streets. At present, Kuta boasts two large resorts: the Novotel Lombok and Pullman Mandalika Lombok Resort. Both are located on the beach just outside of town and offer a range of accommodation from comfortable hotel rooms to spacious suites and villas, some with private swimming pools.

Visitors are drawn to the south for the raw beauty of the southern coastline, stunning beaches and scenery, almost year-round sunshine… as well as some of the best surf breaks in Indonesia! Located around 60 km south of Mataram, Kuta (sometimes spelt Kute) is the main town and tourism centre on the south coast of Lombok, and is the gateway for exploring the fantastic south coast and the many places of interest in the region. The Lombok International Airport (LIA) is the only commercial airport on Lombok and is located just 25 minutes’ drive north of Kuta, making access to the south very easy. The proximity to the airport and the construction of the Mandalika Circuit has sparked an investment boom in the area over the past couple of years

and Kuta has transformed into a vibrant town, with many new hotels, restaurants and cafés catering to increasing numbers of visitors. The Mandalika Circuit – officially called Pertamina Mandalika International Street Circuit – was completed in 2021 and currently hosts World Superbike and MotoGP racing events, drawing thousands to the island during race times. The Mandalika Resort development, with its plans for luxury hotels, villas and supporting facilities spread over 1000 hectares of prime land, will further transform the south coast in coming years. Kuta is an area that is rapidly developing – residential areas are spreading, international schools have opened to serve the growing expatriate community, and shopping, services and supporting infrastructure continues to grow.

As with accommodation options, new restaurants and eateries have sprung up in the area and are arguably among the best in Lombok. These offer a range of choices – Mediterranean, Seafood, Japanese, Mexican, Chinese, vegan and gluten free, home-made cakes and breads – foodies are truly spoilt for choice! Kuta offers a full range of tourist facilities from motorbike hire, car rental and tours, surf lessons, surfboard hire and repair. There is a Fresh Market supermarket and various mini-markets, boutiques and shopping, as well as spas, Continued and on Page 61 a hair dressing salon, ATM facilities, more. Surfing is one of the main reasons to visit Kuta and the town attracts thousands of visitors every year for the great surf locations at Gerupuk, Ekas, Tanjung Aan, Are Guling and more. It’s easy to hire a board and a surf guide from here to learn surfing or, for experienced surfers, to access the more challenging surf breaks in the area. There are surf coaches for hire, as well as surf schools and camps throughout the year. Continued on Page 50


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Continued from Page 49

Apart from surfing and days spent hanging out at fabulous beaches, there are many other attractions to explore. The drive between Kuta and the airport reveals interesting rural villages and farming communities where fields of tobacco, corn and peanuts line the roadsides and farmers till the fields using antiquated ploughs pulled by large water buffalo. Nearby are two traditional Sasak villages – Sade and Rambitan – with authentic clusters of thatched Lumbung, or rice barns, and traditional homes made of thatch and bamboo, with hardened cow and buffalo dung floors.

Both villages have been updated and cater to the tourist market, but there are still interesting examples of traditional Sasak architecture and communal living within the compounds, where life continues as it has for centuries. Residents, who act as guides for a small fee, encourage walks through either of these villages and are happy to share a glimpse of their lifestyles with visitors. Also nearby are pottery villages with nice examples of earthenware pots and home décor, and villages that weave traditional fabrics (tenun ikat) using old backstrap looms and techniques passed down through generations.


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Otherwise, hire a car or motorbike and you can spend days visiting stunningly beautiful beaches, both to the east and west of Kuta. Just east of Kuta is Seger Beach (sometimes called Mandalika Beach, after the legendary Princess Mandalika – a beloved character in Sasak folklore who is believed to have sacrificed herself from the rocks overlooking the beach for the good of her people). It is here that thousands of people gather every year to celebrate the colourful ritual of Bau Nyale, when masses of sea worms spawn in the waters offshore. There are great views from the beach and even better views if you climb the surrounding hills. There are small stalls selling drinks and snacks to enjoy after taking a swim or a stroll to enjoy the views.

swimming in the calm waters and relaxing with a drink or meal.

Tanjung Aan, around 5km east of Kuta, is a long picturesque beach with a wide arc of white sand, perfect aquamarine water and shady trees on the shore.

The water at Tanjung Aan is calm and clear, with a white sandy bottom making it fantastic for swimming. There are also perahu (local outrigger boats) available for hire, offering trips around the bay and to the nearby surf breaks.

There are a number of warung or beach cafés along the beach selling cold drinks and beer, as well as snacks and simple meals. Many have sun lounges on the beach and guests are welcome to spend the day

There is a small hill (Bukit Antara) towards the east end with steps cut into the side. It’s an easy climb to the top for lovely views and you can watch the surfers catching the waves offshore.

Bruga Villas Restaurant and Spa

Located in the heart of beautiful Selong Belanak featuring 8 Deluxe King Rooms, Rooftop Restaurant and Bar, Coffee Shop, and Spa

Happy Hour Daily 5pm to 7pm Jl Selong Belanak - Kuta, Praya Barat, Lombok Tenggah admin@brugavillas.com | www.brugavillaslombok.com | Ph/WA: +62 853 3331 2010

On the far western end of the beach is Bukit Merese – a larger hill and a slightly tougher climb – but worth the effort for the fantastic views from the top. It is popular in the late afternoon, when everyone climbs up to see the spectacular sunsets. Further east of Tanjung Aan is Gerupuk – well known as a top surf location and situated on a peninsula of land that juts out into the ocean. The bay is used for fishing and lobster farming and is filled with local boats, which ferry avid surfers to no fewer than five surf breaks nearby.

Continued on Page 54


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Continued from Page 51

Gerupuk is also evolving and offers a range of accommodation and cafés to cater to the growing tourist trade. The beaches and wonderful scenery continues all the way to the east coast, with fantastic places such as Bumbang, Awang Bay, Ekas and Pantai Surga (Heaven Beach)… the name says it all! In the opposite direction, heading west from Kuta, are another series of beautiful beaches and bays hidden behind headlands and rolling hills, providing peaceful and secluded spots for picnics and swimming. All are within easy day trips of Kuta. Are Guling is popular with surfers, with left and right hand reef breaks as well as a beach break for beginners. There are great views over the bay and to the small island of Gili Nusa off-shore. Are Guling has accommodation, mainly catering to surfers, and a number of local cafés, including a couple of places on the beach. Mawun Beach is around 30 minutes’ drive to the west and is an almost circular bay with small green headlands rolling into the ocean from either side. It is a spectacular beach with calm blue waters, perfect for swimming and spending

Sempiak Seaside Resort at Selong Belanak by Asriel Haryadi

a day lazing on the white sand. There are stalls on the beach selling drinks, snacks and simple meals. Mawi, around another 7km to the west, is for experienced surfers and has good rightand left-hand barrels for surfing when the swell is large enough. For non-surfers, if you can brave the treacherous road, it is a lovely beach surrounded by small hills, with impressive views; look for the three pinnacles of rock jutting out of the ocean. Selong Belanak is a long sweeping bay framed on each end by headlands and surrounded by rolling hills. The beach is lovely for swimming and has good waves for body surfing, as well as being popular for beginners surfing lessons. There are many small stalls selling drinks and snacks, as well as offering surf lessons and surf board hire on the beachfront. Sempiak Seaside Resort has plush villas, some with private pools, perched on the hillside overlooking the bay with breathtaking panoramic views.

Laut Biru Restaurant and Bar at the resort is right on the beachfront with lovely views. It is a popular place for a stop – and justifies a day trip in itself – serving delicious snacks and meals under shady trees on the beach. Selong Belanak is another area undergoing a lot of growth, mainly due to the popularity of the beach and the wonderful landscapes of the area. Here you will find many small hotels and villas, as well as interesting cafés and shops to explore. If you are staying elsewhere, Selong Belanak and the surrounding beaches make a great day trip, with lunch and a swim here as the highlights of your day. Further west are more beaches to explore – Serangan, Torok, Nambung, Pengantap and more – many of them undergoing some type of development as investors recognize the potential of this gorgeous area. Further west stils are the picturesque bays of Sepi and Belongas, and many more scenic beaches along the way; all are mostly deserted. Steeped in history and legend, surrounded by beaches of almost surreal beauty, the south coast is a fascinating area to visit, whether your interests are historical and cultural, in search of the perfect wave, or just the opportunity to see and explore some of the most beautiful and pristine coastal scenery in Indonesia.



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Tourism Information 57

THE SOUTHWEST COAST

Southwest Lombok boasts long meandering coastlines of pristine white sand beaches and sparkling ocean, with rarely a person to be seen. Off the coast, thirteen small islands - the Southwest Gilis - float in the turquoise waters just waiting to be discovered. Unlike the famous ‘Gili Islands’ in northwest Lombok, the Southwest Gilis are largely uninhabited and have yet to be discovered by most travellers... that’s why we call them ‘The Secret Gilis’! The big island of Gili Gede is the gateway to the Southwest and, with a range of accommodation and facilities, it’s a good base for island hopping and exploring the area. The picturesque Southwest region begins from Sekotong, just south of Lembar Harbour, and features stunning beaches and bays set against a backdrop of rolling green hills. The drive down the southwest coast is an enjoyable trip, meandering through villages where life is largely untouched by tourism and where the people are involved in their day-today activities of farming, fish cultivation, fishing, brick-making and other traditional pastimes. Situated on a wide, placid bay in Sekotong is the peaceful village of Taun (or Tawun). The ocean is sparkling turquoise and the dazzling white sand stretches in a wide sweep around the bay. Just out in the bay are the three lovely islands of Gili Nanggu, Gili Tangkong and Gili Sudak (and the tiny island of Gili Kedis) – all easily accessible by local outrigger boats. A small sign in the nearby village will direct you to the local boat hire area, where you can arrange boat trips out to Gili Nanggu and the other islands.

Southwest Lombok by Asriel Haryadi

& SECRET ISLANDS

Accommodation at Taun has grown over the past few years and there are now small hotels, villas and home stays overlooking the bay. It’s easy to base yourself on the mainland and take boat trips to explore all the southwest islands from here. Gili Nanggu has accommodation for visitors, with simple cottages on the beach and a restaurant. The island is small and the beach has soft white sand and a good reef just offshore for snorkelling. Island-hopping tours usually stop at Gili Nanggu, Sudak and Kedis, which all have good snorkelling from the shore. Back on the main road and travelling a little further south, before the marine culture complex (Balai Budaya Laut), there is a small dirt road leading out onto a white peninsular of sand that juts

Sekotong by Barbara

into beautiful clear waters. Drive to the end for superb views and a close up look at Gili Genting. Gili Genting sits just off the tip of the peninsular and at low tide you can walk across the sandbar and explore this uninhabited island. Old volcanic rocks and stone carved from centuries of tidal flow create small caves and alcoves, providing shelter for picnics and interesting nooks and crannies to explore.

Continued on Page 58


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Sunset on Gili Gede by Barbara

Australian meats and in-house breads and bakery items. There is also an outstanding wine and drinks list.

Continued from Page 57

Further south is the village of Tembowong. There are a few cafés and places to eat here. Nearby is parking area and a small jetty – the site for catching boats out to Gili Gede, only a few minutes across the water. Gili Gede: The largest of the islands in the area is Gili Gede, appropriately meaning ‘Big Island’. The island lays just offshore and is so large visitors often mistake it for part of the mainland. Gili Gede is developing as the main hub for the Southwest Gilis, as it is one of the few islands in the area that has a choice of accommodation, making it an ideal base for exploring the other nearby islands. The luxurious ko - ko - mo Gili Gede Resort, which opened in February 2016, is the sister resort to ko - ko - mo Resort on Gili Trawangan. The stylish all villa resort, comprising fifteen 1- and 2-bedroom villas with private swimming pools, and one bedroom Villa Kecil (small villas), is spread out over spacious grounds on a pristine beachfront. All modern comforts such as air conditioning and ceiling fans, flat screen televisions with satellite channels and DVD, Wi-Fi, fresh (not salt) hot water, plentiful power points for charging devices, and more are provided in each villa. Facilities at the resort include a tennis court, a small gym, a resort swimming pool and purpose-built Spa facility and a beachfront restaurant. Guests at the restaurant can enjoy upmarket dining with a menu prepared from fresh locally-sourced seafood, imported

ko - ko - mo has a purpose-built jetty at the front of the resort and operate their own fast boat service – ‘Gili Getaway’ – making Gili Gede easily accessible from Bali. Perched on the hilltop just to the north of ko - ko – mo is Villa Selalu, a private luxury retreat that enjoys outstanding 360º views of the stunning surroundings. The fully serviced 4-bedroom villa boasts unparalleled luxury with all mod cons and ultra-chic furnishings. Guests can enjoy a number of indoor and outdoor living areas, as well as an 18m infinity pool overlooking the ocean surrounded by a spacious deck, BBQ area and lounging pavilion. Villa Selalu has a private beachfront and a boathouse equipped with snorkelling gear, sea kayaks, paddle boards and bikes to make the most of your holiday. Individual rooms are available or rent the villa in entirety for the ultimate island escape! Accommodation options on the island are growing and include some lovely midrange resorts as well as cottages and home stays with simple accommodation for budget travellers.

Marina Del Ray on the south of the island is an Australian-standard yacht marina. The location of the marina is ideal, with a long jetty extending into deep protected waters offering safe anchorage year-round for visiting boats. The marina offers customs, immigration, and port control facilities as well as fuel supplies, moorings, provisioning, and repairs. There is also a Yacht Club, with restaurant and accommodation available. Gili Gede is large enough to provide a range of activities such as hiking to the hills in the centre for fantastic views across the other islands, exploring deserted beaches and hidden coves, and meeting the people living on the island, who are very friendly and, as yet, unspoilt by tourism. To the south of Gili Gede, the islands of Gili Ringgit, Layar and Asahan are lined up like secret treasures in the calm sea. Bounty Cruises, a Bali based company, own a large parcel of land on Gili Ringgit and constructed a boat mooring and pier on the island some years ago. There is good snorkelling on the west side of Gili Ringgit, accessed by boat.

Continued on Page 60


VILLA SELALU Gili Gede, Lombok

Villa Selalu is a private luxury hilltop retreat on beautiful Gili Gede that enjoys 360-degree, uninterrupted views of a truly unique and untouched part of the world. The villa offers four king-size bedrooms each with marble ensuites and can comfortably accommodate up to 12 guests. Whether booking one bedroom as a couple, or two or more bedrooms as a group, enjoy the villa exclusively for your stay. . private jetty .18m infinity pool . private white sand beach . hilltop bbq pavilion . entertainment room . WIFI . commercial kitchen . spacious open plan living . fully air conditioned . tv’s in bedrooms . ceiling fans throughout . hilltop breakfast pavilion . fully catered . dedicated manager and staff. bespoke furnishings & amenities . beach lounges . beach café & bar . bikes . snorkelling gear . kayaks and stand-up paddleboards ENQUIRIES bookings@villaselalu.com | www.villaselalugiligede.com | +61 411 031 607


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Tourism Information Continued from Page 58

Large gardens of hard and soft corals lay just beneath the surface and the reef extends along most of the island’s coast. On the other side of the island is where the pier is located, on a fantastic white sand beach. It’s easy to snorkel offshore, just north of the pier and, although the reef isn’t as large as on the other side of the island, there is still plenty to see, and the scenery and beach are lovely.

Point and the surfing Mecca for those in the know – located on the far southwest tip of Lombok. The wide white sand bay is lined with fisherman’s huts and draws hundreds of surfers every year from as far away as Hawaii and Brazil to challenge the huge waves of Desert Point, just offshore. Although the road deteriorates after Labuhan Poh, it is still passable for

The dive sites of the Southwest reflect a good cross-section of what Indonesian diving has to offer. Dive in and be fascinated by turtles, white tip reef sharks, cuttlefish, moray eels and many other varieties of marine life. The reefs are full of colourful corals, which harbour an amazing variety of marine life, including ghost pipe fish, leaf fish, pygmy seahorses and much more.

Many are astounded by the pristine conditions and huge schools of turtles seen near Gili Layar – the island between Gili Ringgit and Gili Asahan. Bright blue starfish drape themselves across patches of coral, and bright yellow and black Moorish Idols dart through the water. Schools of hundreds of small iridescent fish swim past and weirdly shaped squid drift by in the deeper areas. There is simple accommodation on Gili Layar and a restaurant serving fresh juices, beers and tasty meals. Slightly further south, beautiful Gili Asahan attracts visitors with its deserted white sand beaches, clear calm waters and swaying palm trees. Gili Asahan Eco Lodge and Pearl Beach Resort both offer comfortable accommodation options on the island, and a number of other places offer a range of accommodation to suit all budgets. Leaving Gili Asahan and back on the mainland, continue south on the coastal road until you come to a main intersection. A signpost to the left leads to the spectacular large bay at Mekaki. The road to the right leads to Labuhan Poh and Pelangan. There are small home-stays and private accommodations spaced out along the road to Bangko-Bangko – known as Desert

most vehicles in the dry season. During the surfing season, from mid-May to September and again in December, the beach is buzzing with surfers, but otherwise it is a remote and peaceful area. Bali is clearly visible, with the island of Nusa Penida only about an hour’s sail away.

For non-divers, the islands are a delight for snorkelling – abundant coral reefs lay just below the surface waiting to be explored, filled with thousands of brightly coloured tropical fish, huge sprawling blue starfish and magical turtles gently gliding through the water.

The drive to the point is dotted with bucolic scenery and tiny villages, making it a worthwhile trip even for non-surfers. There is basic surfer accommodation in the area and plans for development in the near future.

It’s easy to imagine hotels and resorts on all these beaches and islands in the future but for now, the Southwest is unspoilt and the Gilis remain the secret islands… stunningly beautiful, pristine and unique, and visited only by the lucky few.

Gili Getaway Fast Boat Service: Gili Getaway operates a convenient fast boat service between Bali and Gili Gede three times a week. Gili Getaway is fast, comfortable and equipped with safety features to ensure guests’ comfort when travelling between the islands, and is the best option for easy and quick access to Gili Gede and the Southwest Gilis. www.giligetaway.com


USEFUL

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CONTACTS EMERGENCY SERVICES Lombok Police (POLRES NTB): Jl Gajah Mada 7, Mataram. Emergency No: 110 Emergency Rescue (RSU Mataram) Ph: 0370 620009 / 0877 7757 7119 HOSPITALS (Rumah Sakit) Siloam Hospitals Mataram Jl Majapahit 10 Mataram | Phone: 0370 600 1100 / 0878 8590 8372. Emergency: 1-500-911 Rumah Sakit Harapan Keluarga Jl Ahmad Yani 9, Selagalas. Ph: 0370 6177000 / 0813 5353 7941. Emergency 0859 3096 5695. Mataram Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Mataram) Jl Bung Karno No 3 Pagutan. Phone: 0370 640774 / 0877 7757 7119 NTB Province Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Propinsi) Jalan Prabu Rangkasari, Dasan Cermen Phone: 0818 988 119 Central Lombok Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Praya) Jl H Lalu Hasyim, Tiwugalih, Praya. Phone: 0877 4343 6738 Mandalika Hospital Jl Kuta-Lombok, Sengkol, Pujut Phone: 0878 1359 4055 Emergency: 0812 3775 6717. East Lombok Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Dr R Sudjono) Jl Professor M Yamin No 55, Selong, East Lombok. Phone: 0817 7523 0033 Biomedika Hospital Jl Bung Karno 143, Mataram. Phone: 0370 645137 Risa Sentra Medika Hospital Jl Pejanggik 115, Cakranegara. Phone: 0370 625560 | 632117 DENTISTS (Dokter Gigi) Drg Farida Istiarini, Sp.Ort (Joli Sourire Dental Care) 1st Floor at Lombok Epicentrum Mall. Jl Sriwijaya, Mataram. Ph: 0878 6490 1535 Drg Yuanita Jl Sriwijaya (opposite Kura-Kura Waterpark), Mataram. Ph: 0812 3763 156 Drg. Mumu Jl Bung Hatta 14, Mataram. Ph: 0853 3730 7008 Drg. Sumi Mandalika Medicare. Jl Raya Kuta. Ph: 0852 5521 8362 VETS (Dokter Hewan) Dr Dani (ZZ Pet Care) Jl. Majapahit No.40, Taman Sari, Ampenan. Ph: 0823 3910 2011 Dr Wahyu (Nobel Petshop) Jl Sriwijaya (next to Town Palace), Mataram. Ph: 0370 6160300

Dr Hanifah (Humerus Vets) Jl Majapahit, Next to KD Pet Shop Ph: 0821 4100 0965 Dr I Gede Sudiana (FB: lombokanimalrescue) Jl Sadewa 9, Cakra. Ph: 0878 6585 6260 Dr Ajus Ph: 0878 6441 3232 Dr Yoses Kristianto (DC Petshop) Jl Saleh Sungkar, Ampenan. Ph: 0819 99831337 Dr Dwi Ph: 0878 6477 0490 Dr Irfan Ph: 0817 579 0834 Dr Nurul (Kuta) Ph: 0818 0366 2612 TAXI Blue Bird Taxi: 0370 627000 / 0859 5462 7000 IMMIGRATION Jl Udayana, Mataram, Ph: 0370 632520 PUBLIC SERVICES ELECTRICITY PLN Mataram. Ph: 0370 643123 PLN Ampenan. Ph: 0370 622793 TELKOM (Phone/Internet) Ph: 147 Directory Assistance (Phone Numbers): Ph: 108 CONSULATES AUSTRALIA Phone: 0361 2000100. Emergency: +61 26261 3305. Email: Bali.congen@dfat.gov.au BELGIUM Phone: 0343 740274. Emergency: 021 3162030. Email: stefaan.vancolen@st-group.com BRAZIL Phone: 0361 8446530. Emergency: 0821 44440018. Email: renato@bythesea.co.id BRITAIN Phone: 021 23565200. Email: john.makin@ fco.gov.uk / ika.larasyati@fco.gov.uk CHILE Phone: 021 3199 7201 / 02 Email: yakarta@consulado.gob.cl CHINA Phone: 0361 239902. Email: chinaconsul_dps_id@mfa.gov.cn DENMARK Phone: 081 1398 0220 / 021 5761487 Email: bali@umgate.dk ESTONIA Emergency: 0811 987111. Email: bharat@consul-estonia.or.id FINLAND, SWEDEN & NORWAY Phone: 0361 282223. Emergency: 0817 9723658. Email: finnishconsulatebali@yahoo.com / sweconsul@yahoo.com / norwegianconsulatebali@yahoo.com FRANCE & TIMOR LESTE Phone: 0361 9345862. Emergency: 021 23557600. Email: consul@dps.centrin.net.id

GERMANY Phone: 0361-288535. Emergency: 0812 3913938. Email: sanur@hk-diplo.de HUNGARY 0361 425924. Emergency: 081 2385 3781 / 082 144 933 506. Email: hubaliconsul@gmail.com INDIA Ph. 0361 259502/3. Emergency: 081353846936. Email: cg.bali@mea.gov.in / cons.bali@ mea.gov.in ITALY Phone: 0361 701005. Emergency: 081 2390 4471. Email: italconsbali@italconsbali.org JAPAN Phone: 0361 227628. Emergency: 0361 227628. Email: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp MEXICO Phone: 0361 223266, 0361 245828. Emergency: 0361 288218. Email: yudhara@astinatravel.com NEW ZEALAND Phone: 0361 8446456. Emergency: 0819 99477552. Email: indy.honcondibali@gmail.com POLAND Phone: 0361 263967 / 081 238 78324. Emergency: 0811 389449. Email: iblolec@pacificworld.com RUSSIA Emergency: 021 5222912 SLOVAK REPUBLIC Phone: 0361 9005583. Emergency: 0811810680. Email: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com SOUTH AFRICA Ph: 0361 751223. Emergency: 081510533842. Email: info@bagus-discovery.com SPAIN Phone: 0853 3838 5008. Emergency: 081 38004 1258. Email: honorary.cspainbali@gmail.com SRI LANKA Phone: 0361 728483. Email: citrabaliide@yahoo.co.id SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA Phone: 0361 264149 / 021 5256 061. Helpline: +41 800 247 365 Email: bali@honrep.ch THAILAND Phone: 081 238 25542. Emergency: 021 2932 8190. Email: rtcdps@yahoo.com TUNISIA Ph: 021 52892328/29. Email: tunisconsulbali@popodanes.org THE NETHERLANDS Phone: 0361 761502. Email: dutchconsulate@kcbtours.com USA Ph: 0361 233605 / 021 5083 1000. Email: CABali@state.gov


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