Issue 245 | 15 – 29 May 2017
LOMBOK GUIDE ( 0812 3734 4894 | www.thelombokguide.com
PUBLISHED BI-WEEKLY IN LOMBOK, FOR LOMBOK
The Beach Club Beach Bungalows
IN THIS ISSUE Getting to Lombok
Page 4 & 8
Best in Lombok Page 10 & 11 Senggigi
Page 12 - 45
What’s Hot/ Local News
Page 34 & 35
Special Feature Page 38 & 39 Land & Property
Page 46 - 50
Page 51 - 53
Page 54 & 55
Kuta & The South Coast
Page 56 - 65
South Lombok Map
Useful Contacts Page 66 North Lombok
Page 67 - 69
Page 70 - 88
Getting to Gilis
Gilis Fast Facts Page 75 Gilis Map
To find out more, pick up a copy of The Lombok Guide from the locations listed on page 33 or visit www.thelombokguide.com and discover the magic of Lombok for yourself… Like thousands of others, you’ll be enchanted!
Fast – safe – comfortable speedboat transfers!
Getting to the Gilis has never been so easy!
Senggigi – Gili Trawangan – Senggigi Senggigi – Gili Air - Senggigi Senggigi – Gili Gede – Senggigi DAILY DEPARTURES Senggigi office: Senggigi Jetty, Senggigi Beach | Ph: +62 812 339 188 281 Gili T: +62 87 864 322 515 | +62 852 3836 3899 Gili Gede: +62 812 3661 0812 | +62 819 0732 5135
ONLINE BOOKINGS & INFO
View from Tanjung Aan by Barbara
Special Feature Page 42 & 43
GETTING TO LOMBOK
It’s easy to get to Lombok from Bali – flight time is only around 30 minutes and fares start from around Rp 350,000 (approx. US $35) one way. Buy tickets direct from the airline counters at the domestic airports, or contact local travel agents in both Bali and Lombok. Lombok International Airport (abbreviated to LIA with the IATA code “LOP”) is the main airport on Lombok. The airport is close to Praya (Central Lombok); approximately 40km south of the city of Mataram, and around 1 ½ hours’ drive from Senggigi, and 25 minutes from Kuta.
Direct flights to Lombok from Bali, Jakarta, Jogja and Surabaya are available from multiple airlines every day and are usually timed to connect with European flights. Lombok is an important connection for travel to the eastern islands, in particular the islands of Sumbawa, Komodo and Flores. Garuda Indonesia / Citilink have direct flights daily between Lombok and Bali, Surabaya, Makassar and Jakarta. Call Centre: 08041 807 807. Sales Office: +62 370 642303 / 649999. Airport: 0370 649100. www.garuda-indonesia.com Lion Air / Wings Air has daily flights between Lombok, Bali, Bima (Sumbawa), Jakarta and Surabaya. Ph: +62 370 6627444 / 642180. www.lionair.co.id
Airport departure tax is included in the price of all tickets.
BALI TO LOMBOK BY AIR In Lombok, all flights depart and arrive at Lombok International Airport. In Bali, flights arrive and depart at the domestic terminal at Ngurah Rai (Denpasar) Airport. Garuda Airlines has direct flights between Lombok and Bali every day. Call Centre: 0 8041 807 807, Sales Office: +62 370 642303 / 649999. www.garuda-indonesia. com
Batik Air flies direct between Lombok and Jakarta, with two flights every day. www.batikair.com
BALI TO LOMBOK BY SEA
Padang Bai Harbour (Bali) provides the sea link between mainland Bali and Lombok. Lembar Harbour (Lombok) is on the southwest coast, approx. 1 hour south of Senggigi, Lombok. Wings Air / Lion Air flies between Bali and Lombok daily. The Arrange your own transport and buy tickets direct from the companies code-share, so you may purchase a Lion Air ticket and harbours, or use a reputable tour company to provide a transfer find yourself on a Wings Air flight! Lombok, Call Centre: +62 80 service. 4177 8899. Bali, ph: +62 361 765132. Public Ferries depart every hour for the sea voyage between www.lionair.co.id Padang Bai Harbour (Bali) and Lembar Harbour (Lombok). The INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS crossing between the islands costs Rp 44,000 per person and Lombok International Airport has full Visa on Arrival (VOA) takes approx. 4 to 5 hours. Lembar Harbour ph: +62 370 681 209. facilities, including 30 day “Visa Free” (no charge) for tourists. Padang Bai Harbour ph: (+62 363) 41849 / 41840 Ph: +62 370 622987. Silk Air (a subsidiary of Singapore Airlines) flies direct between Lombok and Singapore, four times per week (Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Friday). Ph: +62 370 628254 / 628255. www.silkair.com Air Asia operates direct flights between Lombok and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, with many international connections available. Flights operate between Lombok and KL twice daily, seven days per week. www.airasia.com
There are now numerous “fast boat” services operating between Bali and Lombok. Blue Water Express has services between Bali and mainland Lombok, with convenient departures from two different locations on Bali – Serangan (near Benoa Harbour) and Padang Bai Harbour – every day. Fares include air conditioned hotel transfers in Bali. Ph: +62 361 895 1111 / 0813 3841 8988. www.bluewater-express.com
Gili Getaway operates several comfortable fast boats Garuda Airlines flies between Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia and connecting Bali and mainland Lombok every day, with a short stop-over in Jakarta. International Lombok (including Senggigi, connections from around the world are available via Jakarta. Call the Gili Islands and Gili Centre: 08041 807 807. Airport: +62 370 649100. www.garudaGede in the southwest) with indonesia.com daily transfers from Serangan Harbour on Bali. Fares include air DOMESTIC FLIGHTS conditioned hotel transfers to main points in Bali. Ph: +62 819 1673 3051 / +62 813 3707 4147. European connections are easy via Jakarta (the capital city of www.giligetaway.com Java), Bali and other capital cities such as Jogjakarta, Surabaya and Makassar. See the “Getting to the Gilis” section for more details.
Officially, the scheduled departure times are every hour for shuttle buses to Sweta Bus Terminal (near the city of Mataram) and every 1 and 1/2 hours to Senggigi, from 3am until 8pm. However, you may find yourself on a bus that combines both routes, stopping first near Mataram and then continuing on to Senggigi.
LOMBOK INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is a relatively small airport that handles domestic flights between Bali, Jakarta and other Indonesian cities and international flights to and from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Getting to the Airport: Lombok Taxi (Blue Bird) is the most convenient taxi operator and are allowed to drop passengers directly in front of the departure terminal. Note that they cannot pick up passengers from inside the airport grounds. Organising an airport transfer with your hotel is often the easiest option, with the hotel driver meeting you on arrival and transferring you to your hotel in comfort. Check with your hotel – charges are usually only slightly more than a taxi.
a metered taxi independently. Ignore the many touts that will approach you with offers of cheap fares – they are not licensed operators and often quote low prices, which can quickly change once you are in the car. Avoid eye contact and avoid the hassle. If you do need to use an independent driver – if you are a large group or have a lot of luggage or sports equipment, such as surf boards – make sure you negotiate a fixed price before you get in the vehicle.
Directly in front is the parking area where the official airport taxis wait. Kotama and Kotasi are the main operators, using dark blue sedans carrying a maximum of 4 passengers (less if you have a lot of luggage).
The trip terminates opposite the Galleria shops on the main street in Senggigi (just south of Asmara Restaurant). If you need to stop beforehand, let the driver know and he will usually accommodate your request. The trip to Senggigi takes around 90 minutes and costs just Rp 35,000 per person. At the shuttle stop in Senggigi, flag down a metered Blue Bird taxi to take you to your hotel or villa.
For low cost airport transfers, the DAMRI bus is the cheapest way to travel between Senggigi, Mataram and the airport (see below). From the Airport: taxis are available to meet all arriving flights. After collecting your baggage, head out of the arrivals hall and through the terminal to the exit doors.
The helpful drivers tend to stop at other popular points along the route, including dropping off passengers at the roundabout in Gerung (useful if you are heading to Sekotong or Lembar), several points near the city, and outside the old Selaparang Airport on the way to Ampenan (where taxis also await the arrival of the buses).
The public DAMRI bus uses air conditioned Mercedes buses which seat around 40 passengers and are an economical solution to airport transfers to and from Senggigi and the cities.
Around Lombok: Lombok is easy to get around. The roads are in good condition and there is little traffic, apart from in the cities. The island itself is only slightly smaller than Bali at 115km (70 miles) long and 80km (50 miles) wide; it is not practical to drive around Lombok in one day.
The DAMRI counter is located around the corner from the arrivals hall doors, just past the airport taxi counters (opposite the Maxx Coffee outlet).
The DAMRI counter is manned with an information officer who issues tickets These taxis are licensed and insured for the bus service. Prices are clearly and will use the meter to calculate your shown on sign boards at the counter. fare anywhere on the island. DAMRI operate a regular schedule of Approximate taxi fares: to Senggigi departures every day to coincide with Rp 220,000; to Mataram Rp 160,000; airline schedules. to Kuta: Rp 90,000; to Bangsal Three airport shuttle services are Harbour Rp 350,000. available – one to and from central There are official taxi counters directly Senggigi (‘Senggigi – Airport’), another outside the arrivals hall that will between Mandalika Terminal in Sweta allocate you a fixed price taxi to most (‘City – Airport’), and one to and from destinations plus charge an additional Selong in East Lombok (‘Selong – airport fee of Rp 17,500; however, it is Airport’). just as easy to walk outside and catch
Continued on Page 8
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GETTING AROUND Continued from Page 4
Taxis are easily available in Lombok and, unlike in other areas of Asia, all use their meters (argo) to calculate fares, so there is no need to haggle a price. Bluebird taxis (light blue colour) are the largest company in Lombok and you will find them in the cities and around tourist areas such as Senggigi.
Express Taksi (white cars) are also available, mainly in the cities. Taxis can be used to make trips to Kuta or Lembar and Bangsal Harbours and, if you are shopping or making day trips by taxi, ask the driver to wait and leave the meter running. Fares are still very low compared to those in the west. Short trips around Senggigi will cost around Rp 20,000; a taxi from Senggigi to Mataram is around Rp 65,000.
Motorbikes are the most popular form of transport and are generally small, light 125cc bikes with automatic gears. Modern and economical motor scooters, such as a Yamaha Mio, are easy to ride and do not have gears. Expect to pay between Rp 35 – 60,000 per day for motorbike rental, depending on age and type. Both require an international drivers’ licence. Tours are readily available in all the tourist areas, and drivers and guides are licensed by the local Kotasi (tour organisation), who also regulate prices in the industry.
Express Taxi, ph: 0370 647 555 Cars and Motorbikes can be hired in Lombok and driving yourself is easy. Cars drive on the left hand side of the road (as in the UK). Modern, air conditioned cars that comfortably seat 5 people including the driver can be hired for between Rp 350 – 450,000 per day, including basic
used today, although they have been replaced by cars and motorbikes in the cities. The covered wooden carriages are pulled by small local ponies and, in villages and at the local markets in Kebun Roek, they are popular transport, particularly for carting goods. Use cidomo for short trips, such as getting to restaurants and hotels around Senggigi. A short trip should cost around Rp 20,000; negotiate the fare with the driver before climbing in.
There are no cars or motorised transport on the Gili Islands, so cidomo are the main form of transport and the islands’ cidomo have a fixed price schedule of fares, much higher than on Lombok.
Most tour operators are reliable and will have a wealth of local knowledge, which can make touring a more rewarding experience. It is also the most comfortable way to explore the island, as you have time to sit back and observe, rather than negotiating traffic and unfamiliar roads. Bemo (pronounced ‘be moh’) are generally small minibuses used as public transport in towns and cities. They are a cheap way of travelling, but can be uncomfortably crowded.
Phone for a taxi or ask your hotel to phone, or flag one down from the side of the road. Make sure the driver starts the meter when you get in. Lombok Taxi (Blue Bird), ph: 0370 627 000 (or download the ‘My Blue Bird’ App from Google Play, iTunes, or from the Blue Bird Group website)
Popular tours, such as day trips to Sedang Gile waterfall, or to Kuta and the south coast, are structured to take in a full day of sightseeing. Tours range between Rp 350 – 700,000 a day for a driver and an air conditioned vehicle for up to 4 passengers, depending on distances and the number of places visited. * Expect to pay high end prices quoted during peak seasons. Cidomo (pronounced ‘chi doh moh’) are traditional horse drawn carts that were once the main form of transport in Lombok and are still
The small versions used in villages are vans with an open back and seats along each side. Flag down a passing bemo from the side of the road and climb on board; press the button on the ceiling when you want to stop and get off and pay the driver when you disembark. Short hops cost around Rp 5,000. These bemos can also be chartered for your private use; negotiate a fare with the driver for a direct trip to a specific location, without stopping to pick up other passengers. In the cities, larger bright yellow bemos travel the routes from Ampenan to Mataram, Mataram to Cakra, and beyond. You will see them cruising the streets, horns beeping, as they pick up and drop off passengers. If you are travelling between the cities, you will need to change bemo, as each serves only one area. Fares between cities are Rp 5,000.
10 Getting around Lombok is easy by car or motorbike and you can hire these in all the main tourism areas, with an International Drivers License. The roads are generally in good condition and traffic is light. Alternatively, hire a car and driver for exploring or take part in the tours and day trips offered by the many tour agencies on the island.
BEST IN ko-ko-mo Resort on Gili Gede to explore the undeveloped islands of the southwest.
The beaches around Kuta are breathtakingly beautiful. Visit Tanjung Aan for fantastic scenery, Selong Belanak for long stretches of white sand and turquoise waters, or swim in the lovely bay at Mawun. Surfing at Selong Belanak by DC
SURFING Lombok is a world-renown surfing destination amongst surf enthusiasts world-wide. Huge waves and challenging surf lure die-hards to Bangko-Bangko (also known as Desert Point) on the southwestern tip of Lombok. Kuta, on the south coast, is surf-central and has a range of accommodations and facilities especially for surfers. Here you can hire a board, get board repairs and take surf lessons from the professionals. The waves at Gerupuk and Tanjung Aan offer a variety of challenges from beginners to sheer madness! Ekas Bay has two surf breaks: Inside Ekas and Outside Ekas with waves suitable for beginners to experts, depending on the season. At certain times of the year when conditions are right, you’ll find locals surfing the breaks at Senggigi and Mangsit Beach, and off Gili Air and Gili Trawangan. MOUNTAIN CLIMBING Mt Rinjani, Lombok’s famous volcano, soars 3726 m above sea level and is the second highest volcano in Indonesia, attracting a hundred thousand visitors every year.
The huge crater near the top contains a beautiful lake, Danau Segara Anak (Child of the Sea Lake) and a smaller volcanic cone, Gunung Baru Jari, which was formed a couple of hundred years ago and is still active.
DIVING AND SNORKELLING
There are a number of caves, small waterfalls and hot springs located around the volcano. Rinjani, and its surrounding national park, are recognised internationally as an important eco-tourism destination. Two, three and four day treks on the volcano are offered by tour companies and trek organisers in all the main resort areas of Lombok. BEACHES The whole island is surrounded by fantastic unspoilt beaches, most with crystal clear waters and clean white sand fringed by coconut palms. Drive just north of Senggigi to Malimbu or Nipah and enjoy deserted beaches with fine snorkelling and swimming. The southwest coast has particularly fine beaches, especially in Sekotong and the small islands off the coast. Visit the small island of Gili Asahan for rustic accommodation or stay at the luxurious
With so many islands, Lombok offers a myriad of diving and snorkelling opportunities. The best known locations are around the Gili islands – Gili Air, Gili Meno and Gili Trawangan. Snorkelling is easy from the shore and all three islands are well served by professional dive operators who offer certification courses, day and night dives and specialised courses, as well as liveaboard adventures to exotic locations. For the more adventurous, there is superb diving around the islands off the southwest coast, as well challenging dives off the south coast and the small uninhabited islands off the east coast. GOLF
Mt Baru Jari on Mt Rinjani by Simon Mammino
Lombok Golf Kosaido Country Club (sometimes called Kosaido Golf Course or Pantai Sire Golf Course) is the only international 18 hole championship course in Lombok, located on the shores of Sire Beach in Tanjung, North Lombok (close to the Oberoi and Tugu Hotels). It is around 45 minutes drive from Senggigi.
LOMBOK Nestled between the shores of Sire Bay and the slopes of Mount Rinjani, the 18 hole, par 72 course (6295 meters) offers world-class challenges for golfing enthusiasts of all levels in a natural and picturesque environment. TREKKING Much of the island is still covered by natural rain forest and jungles, making Lombok ideal for ecotourism and adventure tours. There are a number of spectacular waterfalls on the island which provide lovely trekking opportunities, whether travelling independently or as part of a tour.
Narmada Water Park by Barbara
HANDICRAFT VILLAGES Lombok is famous for its traditional earthenware pottery made from local clay with distinctive designs, as well as handwoven sarongs and fabrics (ikat). Pringgasela in Central Lombok is a small village which is steeped in tradition and is a major centre for weaving ikat. Visit the small houses and shops here to see the old traditional looms being used to create intricately woven, colourful fabrics. Sukarara is 5 km to the west of Praya, heading south towards Kuta. This is another weaving village where quality ikat and traditional cloth is displayed and sold. Weavers work outside many of the shops, using antiquated “back strap looms” to painstakingly produce works of art. Some of the larger pieces can take several months to weave and collectors from around the world visit these villages to purchase the blankets, sarongs and cloth produced here.
Banyumulek, easily reached on the road south to Lembar Harbour, is an important centre for pottery on Lombok. The small village has many shops selling pottery produced in the area, as well as from the other main pottery-making villages such as Penujak and Masbagik. Lombok pottery, with its distinctive terracotta styles, is famous internationally and is exported throughout the world. HISTORIC SITES & TEMPLES There are a number of interesting temples around the west coast, many of which are Hindu or ancient animist sites of worship. Pura Lingsar is possibly the only place in the world where Hindus and Moslems come together to pray and celebrate. Built around 1714, Pura Lingsar was originally based on the prevailing animist beliefs of the time, and some of the original statues remain today. Perang Topat is an annual festival held at Lingsar and features a ritualised war with rice cakes, which also serve as an offering to the Gods. Taman Narmada (or Narmada Park) in Narmada (around 6 km east of Cakranegara), was created in the late 1800’s as a replica of Gunung Rinjani and its crater lake. The gardens at Narmada are beautifully maintained and surround the pools and lake in this cool hillside setting.
Sendang Gile near Senaru in the north is an easily accessible waterfall in a stunning jungle setting and popular with visitors. For the more adventurous, there is a second beautiful waterfall – Tiu Kelep – located around an hour’s trek way.
Pura Suranadi, a complex of three temples located a few kilometres north of Narmada in Suranadi, is the oldest and holiest of the Balinese temples in Lombok, founded by the 16th-century Javanese priest, Danghyang Nirartha.
Air Jeruk Manis, near Tetebatu, is set in a cool mountain location and reached by a pretty walk through rice fields and forest. The awesome Benang Stokel and Benang Kelambu waterfalls, in Central Lombok, are located within a short trek of each other and make a perfect day trip for those who appreciate truly magical natural surroundings.
Weaving by Barbara Kathleen
Underground streams bubble up into restored baths, used for ritual bathing. Huge sacred eels live in the pools and streams here, and can sometimes be lured out with an offering of boiled eggs (purchased at a nearby stall). To see a sacred eel is considered very lucky!
SENGGIGI West Coast Resort
Just over one hour from Lombok International Airport, Senggigi is the main tourism centre on Lombok and, apart from the Gili islands, the most developed tourism area on Lombok. The town of Senggigi is about 10 km north of Ampenan, and about 30 minutes drive from Teluk Nara and Bangsal – the harbours to the Gili Islands. Nowhere near as large or as busy as its Bali counterparts, Senggigi is a great base for exploring the rest of the island. The pace is laid-back, with activities centred on the beaches and day trips to places of interest, which are all within a few hours drive from the town. At night, Jalan Raya Senggigi (the main street) comes alive. Dine in the many restaurants catering to all tastes and budgets, listen to live music at the bars, or dance the night away at the nightclubs. Senggigi Beach is the large bay that forms the centre of Senggigi, with the main road running parallel to the beach, and large resorts occupying the space between. The Senggigi Beach Hotel, Santosa Villas and Resort, and the Sheraton Senggigi Resort all line the curved bay of Senggigi Beach and offer a full range of resort facilities, equally attractive for singles, couples and families. The beachfront is currently undergoing “revitalisation” by the West Lombok Tourism Department, which threatens to ruin the natural beauty of the beach. It can become very crowded and is best avoided on Sundays and public holidays. However, many more beautiful beaches exist just minutes away to the north. One of the most spectacular sights on the island is the sunset viewed from Senggigi Beach, with the bright orange sun sinking into the sea to the west and Bali’s
Gunung Agung volcano silhouetted on the horizon like a giant pyramid floating in the ocean. Senggigi Reef, off the southern point, has good coral for snorkelling and, in the right conditions, some decent surf breaks. Canoes can be hired from the beach on the weekends and during peak tourism times. Local outrigger boats (prahu) can be chartered from the beachfront for trips along the coast or out to the Gili Islands. The main road in Senggigi is lined with small attractive hotels catering to all budgets, shops, tour agencies, restaurants, bars and nightclubs; many of which have live music in the evenings. There are a couple of supermarkets, numerous ATM’s and moneychangers, a post office and all the normal tourist facilities. Senggigi is a relaxing and attractive place to stay, with a good range of luxury hotels and resorts, as well as mid-range and budget accommodations. Tourism development runs north along the coastal road for about 10 km, with many hotels and restaurants positioned along the beautiful beaches that line the entire west coast. About 2 km north of central Senggigi Kerandangan Valley has a popular beach
Tourism Information nearby and some small boutique hotels, such as Puri Mas Spa Resort and Villa Campi Sorga, situated in a pretty valley. Dream Estate Park comprises private villa accommodation for owners and investors, and has villas available for short and long term rental in a secure, well-managed estate. At the end of the road through Kerandangan Valley is the Taman Wisata Alam – Kerandangan Nature Reserve – with clearly marked hiking paths leading through the rain forest along the river. There is a small Ranger’s hut and visitors centre near the entrance, and picnic areas with basic concrete tables along the paths. The park boasts a small waterfall, pretty river scenery, families of local monkeys, and a variety of tropical plants and birdlife. Further north, Mangsit has developed as an accommodation alternative to Senggigi, with boutique style hotels positioned along the breathtaking beaches of this section of coast. The popular Qunci Villas, Puri Mas Beach Resort, Windy Beach Resort and Holiday Resort Lombok are located in Mangsit. Furthest north are Klui and Lendang Luar, with two hotels – Jeeva Klui and Hotel Bulan Baru – and long stretches of pristine beaches. Mainly deserted white sand beaches, flanked by coconut groves and untouched by hotel development, continue all the way north along the main coastal road. Malimbu and Nipah are two picturesque bays less than half an hour from Senggigi, which are good for snorkelling, swimming and getting away from it all. Teluk Nara and Teluk Kodek are on a large bay that forms a natural harbour, about 25 kms north of Senggigi. All the main dive operators have boats here, which transfer guests to the Gili islands, as an alternative to nearby Bangsal Harbour. Bangsal Harbour, less than 5km further north, is reached by turning left at the crossroads in Pemenang and from there it is easy to catch the public ferries (actually large outrigger boats) out to the Gilis, or to charter boats for island hopping. Whether you are seeking luxury accommodation at a top resort with fine dining and spa facilities, or a budget holiday with days spent exploring – or all the choices in between – Senggigi caters for all tastes and budgets. From Senggigi, it’s easy to explore the attractions of the stunning south coast or to hop on a boat to the famous Gili islands lying just offshore. Swim, snorkel, dive, hike, lie in the sun, have a massage, eat and drink at some of the great restaurants and bars in town; or just take a break and be enchanted by the peace and beauty of Lombok.
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What’s Hot / Local News
18 Now that the government has blocked off the beachfront in Kuta with a long unsightly metal fence obstructing any beach views while construction work takes place, there is nowhere to sit and have a drink while watching the magical Kuta sunsets. The perfect solution is to head around to the Novotel Lombok Resort and find a spot on the beautiful beachfront there!
beaches on the south coast! See advert page 63. Looking for the perfect way to spend a relaxing Sunday? Make your way down to magnificent Aura Lounge & Bar at Selong Selo and laze the day away in style. Perched high on the hills of Jabon above Selong Belanak – just 25 minutes from Lombok International Airport and around 30 minutes west of Kuta – Aura Lounge & Bar is a chic hang-out with stunning views over Selong Belanak Beach.
Novotel encourages everyone to do so… you don’t have to be a guest of the resort to enjoy the Sunset Happy Hours on the beach every day from 5pm - 7pm. Spend a couple of hours sipping delicious cocktails from the Breeze Bar with the “Buy 2, Get 1 Free” offer while gazing out over the magnificent views at one of the most sublime
Aura is especially popular on Sundays with the resident DJ playing relaxing tunes. Spend the day swimming and lounging by the infinity pool. Order up delicious meals and snacks, and enjoy some fabulous cocktails, while gazing out over the mesmerizing views. Sunday DJ Vibes is on every Sunday from 11am – 8pm. See advert on page 61.
If you’re looking for something different from the usual restaurant or bar scene, you’ll find it at The Cowshed in Batu Layar! The popular steak house keeps the events coming with the monthly Pub Quiz on Thursday, 25 May. Held on the last Thursday of every month, the Pub Quiz is a great night out, with teams competing in all sorts of fun-packed activities with quirky surprises each month. If you want to join the action, it’s a good idea to book a table in advance. If you don’t have a team, there’s always room for one more at a table, so don’t be shy! The fun starts from 7.30pm. See page 15. At last! La Chill Bar have installed their new coffee machine and finished barista training for their staff – so now you can enjoy espresso, cappuccino, latte and all your favourites at the popular beachfront hang-out on Batu Bolong Beach! With a delicious range of breakfasts now available every day at La Chill from 8am, the addition of freshlybrewed coffees makes the start of the day complete! See page 16.
RAMADAN... the Fasting Month Begins It’s almost that time of the year again, when Muslims around the world will be participating in their annual fast.
The month of Ramadan – locally known as ‘Bulan Puasa’ – begins on Friday, 26 May this year and many people across Indonesia will be fasting for the following month. What does this mean if you are planning a visit to Lombok during Ramadan? If you are staying at hotels and resorts in the main tourism areas – Senggigi and the west coast, Kuta and the south coast, and on the three Gilis – it’s business as usual and you would hardly notice any difference. You may notice that the mosques are more noisy than usual and that service can get a little slow at times. However, most local people are used to
working around religious holidays. With Lombok’s ethnic diversity of Muslims, Hindus, Christians, Buddhists and more, there is some type of religious holiday or event almost every month! For people employed in the service and tourism industries, it’s normal for guests to be eating, drinking and enjoying their holidays.
taxis are all operating as usual in Lombok during Ramadan.
Bars are open and still serve alcohol during Ramadan, although they may close earlier and have restricted hours for live music out of respect for people who are waking up earlier than usual.
Ramadan starts with the first sighting of the new moon in the ninth month of the If you’re travelling in some of the outer Islamic calendar (which is based on lunar areas and small villages which are not phases; not the Gregorian calendar) and geared for tourism, it may be more difficult lasts for one lunar month (until the next to find warung or cafés open during the new moon), around 25 June this year. day. It might be easier to buy drinks, The new moon will appear early in the snacks and meals to take with you to have morning of 26 May this year and will mark in the car, or to eat in your hotel later. the beginning of Ramadan (although there So as a general rule – and despite what is usually some disagreement every year some people may tell you –hotels are open about the actual sighting of the moon, so for business, restaurants serve meals all some people may start fasting a day after day, and planes, ferries, fast-boats and this date).
Looking for nice presents or home decorations? WE SELL: Salt and Freshwater Pearls, San Marco Jewellery, Lombok Pottery, Hand Painted Modern Wooden Statues and Masks, Unique Lamps, Paintings, Handwoven Ikats, Sarongs and much more! Jl Raya Senggigi (next to Papa Besar Cafe) | P: 0817 5730 012 | E: email@example.com
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Jl Raya (Main Street) Senggigi Ph: 0370 693619 E: firstname.lastname@example.org
Live Music Every Friday ‘Ary Juliyant and Friends’ from 7.30 pm in the garden
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Seafood BBQ Every Friday & Saturday Evening Senggigi Plaza (Opposite Honky Tonks), Senggigi Beach Road
Our restaurant serves Indonesian food and traditional Sasak dishes at attractive prices! Open daily 7am to 10pm. Stop in for freshly made juices, milkshakes, iced tea and coffee or a cold beer. We have dining inside and outside.
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Enjoy authentic Indonesian feasts in our traditional Javanese Pavilions an unforgetable experience in an intimate setting with Personalised Butler Service
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The Ballroom Restaurant Enjoy first class a la carte dining with some of the best seafood platters in town Uninterrupted views across the ocean to Bali Intimate candle light dinners Romantic sunset cocktails Enticing authentic Indonesian cuisine prepared by our internationally experienced Chef.
The Way Exceptional Dining Should Be! Open 7am to 11pm Child policy - Minimum guest age 12yrs
The Ballroom Restaurant is Ranked #1 out of 55 Restaurants in Senggigi by TripAdvisor
Monday Night is Latin Night! Bring your dancing shoes or just enjoy the entertainment during dinner Performances by Lombok’s Top Latin & Salsa Dancers Junior Amateur Champions of Indonesia performing weekly “Dancing with the Stars” in Lombok! Show starts 8pm
Thursday Night is Cultural Night! A great opportunity to enjoy dinner while watching authentic traditional entertainment from Lombok Show opens with the famous Gendang Beleq Big Drums of Lombok, Peresean “Stick Fighting” from Central Lombok, Sasak Wedding Dance and Baris Dance from Bali – Lombok style! Show starts 8pm
JUST 5 MINS FROM SENGGIGI - FREE TRANSFER SERVICE RESERVATIONS CALL: 0370 693 831 / Email: email@example.com
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ANZAC DAY AT LA CHILL The Dawn Service on ANZAC Day has become a special tradition in Senggigi, held every year on 25 April. This year, La Chill Bar hosted the Dawn Service which included an address by Malcolm Sinclair, flag-raising by Nusa Alam students and one minute’s silence in memory of those who lost their lives in the war. The simple commemorative ceremony was followed by a sausage sizzle breakfast, where old and young alike reflected on the meaning of the day. ‘At the going down of the sun and in the morning, We will remember them.’
CAMPURAN CROSSWORD Solve the clues in Bahasa Indonesia, write the answers in English Selesaikan petunjuk dalam Bahasa Indonesia, tulis jawaban dalam Bahasa Inggris
A little kid with his dad at an open-air market is clutching a coin. Suddenly, he starts choking and turning blue in the face. His dad realises the boy has swallowed the coin and starts panicking, shouting for help. A well dressed, attractive, but serious looking woman in a blue business suit is sitting at a coffee bar in the market reading her newspaper and sipping a cup of coffee. At the sound of the commotion, she looks up, puts her coffee cup down on the saucer, neatly folds the newspaper and places it on the counter, gets up from her seat and makes her way, unhurried, across the market. Reaching the boy, the woman carefully takes hold of the boy’s testicles and starts to squeeze, gently at first and then ever more firmly. After a few seconds, the boy convulses violently and coughs up the coin, which the woman deftly catches in her free hand. Releasing the boy, she hands the coin to the father and walks back to her seat in the coffee bar without saying a word. As soon as he is sure that his son has suffered no lasting ill effects, the father rushes over to the woman and starts thanking her, saying, “I’ve never seen anyone do anything like that before. It was fantastic. Are you a doctor?” “No,” the woman replies, “Divorce lawyer.”
“Playboy Pensiun” by Gemma. Taken at Lembar
Across 1. Pegangan 2. Bungkus 6. Bapak tertinggi di Vatikan 9. Lawan kata beli 12. Milik Ida 13. Dari Jauh 15. Berdoa 17. Mangsa 20. Perlu 21. Titik atau bintik
Down 1. Celah 2. Anak nakal 4. Menyesal 5. Teman dekat 7. Perintah 8. Skripsi 9. Cap surat 10. Cuti 15. Permainan kata-kata 16. Alat pembelah kayu 18. Robek 19. Namun
Solution Issue 244 Across: 1. grill. 4. dig. 6. our. 7. again. 8. ant. 9. dime. 11. snow. 14. can. 15. olive. 17. owl. 18. tar. 19. lolly. Down: 1. guard. 2. IRA. 3. long. 4. drain. 5. get. 10. minor. 12. weedy. 13. roll. 14. cat. 16. ill. At a travel agency in Shanghai, I asked the Chinese girl behind the counter if she could escort me on a city tour and asked for her phone number so I could call her to make arrangements. She gave me a big smile, nodded her head and said, “Sex sex sex. Wan free sex for tonight!”
We pay Rp 100,000 for every Funny Foto we publish. Email to firstname.lastname@example.org
“Wow, you Chinese women are really hospitable!” I replied. A guy standing next to me overheard, tapped me on the shoulder and said: “What she really said was: 666 136429”.
discover natureâ€™s greatest gift
Pearl Farm Tours Pearl and Jewellery Showroom Private viewings welcome
Showroom Open Daily
PT Autore Pearl Culture, Teluk Nara, Malaka, Lombok Phone: +62 8133 992 0015 / +62 8133 992 0020 | Email: email@example.com
LOMBOK GUIDE The
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4000 COPIES DISTRIBUTED EVERY TWO WEEKS AT: BLUE BIRD TAXI: Exclusively available in every Blue Bird Taxi in Lombok. AIRPORT: LIA Tourist Information Rack, Lombok Baru Taxi, Kotama Taxi, Golden Bird Travel, Trec, BLT Travel and every counters outside International Lombok Airport. MATARAM: Autore, Lombok Epicentrum Mall (Ace Hardware, Burger King, Bread Talk, Cinema XXI, Excelso, Food Centrum, Front Desk, Hypermart, Informa, J.Co, Joli Sourire, KFC, Maxx Coffee, Mokko Factory, My Kopi-O, Omah Cobek, Paris Castle, Pizza Pazza, Quali, Solaria, The Vinette, XO Suki), Mataram Mall (Delicio Café, McDonalds, Mokko Factory, Oceanic Café), Toko Susana. KUTA: Bombora Bungalows, Discovery Coffee House, El Bazar, KRNK, Kuta Bay Homestay, Kuta Heights, Kuta Indah Hotel, Mimpi Manis Homestay, Novotel, Nuggets Corner, Puri Rinjani, Sekar Kunning / Yellow Flower, The Chili Cafe, Warung Bule. SENGGIGI: Anna’s Giftshop, Aruna Senggigi Hotel, Asmara Restaurant, Café Alberto, Cafe Lombi, Dive Zone, Globe Bar, Island Properties Lombok, Katamaran Resort, Kebun Villas, La Chill Bar, Living Asia, Lombok Property and Villas, Lotus Bayview Restaurant, Orchid Spa, Puri Bunga Cottages, Puri Mas Boutique Hotel, Qunci Villas, Senggigi Jaya Abadi Supermarket, Scuba Froggy, Sheraton, Spice, Square Restaurant, Tempatku, Temptations, The Chandi, The Cowshed, The Office, Verve Beach Club, Ye Jeon Restaurant. GILI T: Blue Marlin Dive, Desa Dunia Beda, Gili Getaway, Kayu Cafe, ko-ko-mo Resort, Le Resto, Oceano Resort, Malibu Beach Club, Manta Dive, Martas Bungalows, Scallywags, The Beach House, The Trawangan. GILI AIR: Scallywags, The Beach Club. SOUTH LOMBOK: ko-ko-mo Gili Gede, Novotel Resort, Sempiak Villas BALI: 707 Beachberm, Air Bali, Asia Collection Tour, Asian Trails Tour, Bale Bali Restaurant, Bali Deli, Bali Medical Clinic, Bakfickan Bar & Rest, Batu Jimbar Resturant, Bebek Bengil Kuta, BIMC, Black Canyon Seminyak Square, Blue Café, Blue Water Express, Bounty Cruises, Bow Restaurant, Bungalow Café, Cafe Bali, Café Canggu, Café Marzano, Cafe Moka, Café Smorgas, Canggu Club, Canggu Station, Captain Cook Rest, Chez Gado-Gado, Club Havana, Cocoon Spa, Corner House Restaurant, Corner Store, Dijon, Eco Beach Rest, Exotissimo Travel Indonesia, Finn’s Beach Club, Firestation Restaurant, Gardenia Cafe & Bar, Gili GIli, Gili Shop Poppies 1, Gloria Jeans Coffee 1, Go Vacation Tour, Golden Kris Tour, Gourmet Cafe, Grain Bar, Grocer & Grind, Gypsy Restaurant, Habitual Queench Feed, Happy Chappy Canggu, Hog Wild Restaurant, Istana Kuta Galeria, Jalapeno Rest Sanur, Jones Lang Lasalle, Junction Bar & Rest, Kantor The Yak, Keraton Hotel, L’Assiette Restaurant, La Laguna Restaurant, Lila Pantai Sanur, Loop Rest, Living Stone Bakery, Mamas Rest, Mamasan Restaurant, Massimo Italian Restaurant, Meno Mojo, Metis Restaurant, Milk & Madu Restaurant, Monsieur Spoon Canggu, Monsieur Spoon Laksmana, Monsieur Spoon Rest, Motel Mexicola, Manikepis Restaurant, Nero Rest, Noemah by Lonny, Nude Nasty Fasion, Ocha Warung, Old Mans Rest & Bar, On On Bar, Pacific World, Pacto Tour, Pantarei Restaurant, PT Dimatique International, Reborn Salon, Red Carpet, Rutica Cucina Italiana, Samudra Bar, Sanur Beach Grove, Serba Antik, Soho Restaurant, SOS, Soul In Bowl, Souq Restaurant, Sprout Restaurant, Starbucks Coffee Kuta, Starbucks Discovery Mall, Stiff Chilli, Strawberry Fields, Taco Casa Restaurant, The Plumbers Arms, Tourist Information, The Savage Kitchen, Trattoria Cucina Italiana, Two Fish Drivers, Vila Lumbung, Warung Bonita, Warung Sulawesi, Y Bar, Zanzibar Restaurant. Special thanks to our contributors: Barbara Kathleen, Dian Cahyadi, Iwan Haryanto, www.balidiscovery.com. Printed by PT. Temprina Media Grafika, Denpasar, Bali
Copyright © 2007 – 2017. We have spent years travelling all over Lombok, documenting, photographing and updating. If you want to write about Lombok, we suggest you do the same! All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, reproduced or transmitted in any form (electronically, print or otherwise) without prior written permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed in The Lombok Guide are those of the author and not necessarily the Publisher. We reserve the right to refuse advertising or articles at the Publisher’s discretion. While all care is taken to avoid copyright infringements, The Lombok Guide will not be held responsible for images or text directly supplied by advertisers and/or contributors. Tired after a day of mischief
KUTA TWO HOUSES WITH SPACE FOR MORE
Situated in the heart of Kuta on major Commercial Road stand two seriously constructed Western buildings, approx. 450 sqm over four levels, giving sea views with beautifully presented gardens on approx. 7.5 are or 750sqm freehold land. Currently used as private accommodation and offices, this site can easily be transformed into a 5 star boutique hotel, restaurant, spa.... The options are limited to your imagination... you decide! Truly needs to be viewed to be appreciated. Just 200 metres walk to the beach.
Listed at below cost to replace today Rp 5.4 billion / USD 395,000 Please contact the owner direct on Phone 081 7667 3983
VILLA ASTI FOR SALE A fantastic villa in the popular tourist area of Mangsit, West Lombok. Located on 5,400m2 surrounded by lush tropical gardens and coconut palms.
The main villa has two spacious bedrooms with ensuites plus a separate villa with ensuite is situated next to the pool and gazebo. The land is flat to sloping, with sea views. Great investment potential to develop property by adding more villas or use as a holiday home/rental. Build: 235m2 | Land: 5,400m2 (54 Are) Power: 11,000 kva | Water: deep bore Gazebo: 5m x 5m | Pool: 12m X 3m View online: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zron7GIb-Mk Enquires above: USD 395,000 (Rp 5.3 billion) Contact â€“ Astik Suliastari Mike921kx250@gmail.com / +64-2108122616
YOUR PRIVATE DRIVER IN LOMBOK LAND FOR SALE Do you need a driver for your private tour in Lombok? Please text me via WhatsApp to this number +62 818 0555 9594 in English/German BrĂ¤uchten Sie einen deutschsprachigen privaten Fahrer auf Lombok?
Great Views out over Kuta Bay
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6,000sqm (60 are) Lobster Bay, Bumbang - southern Lombok Stunning ocean views. Drive-on access Close to surf breaks Rp 35 million per are
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Nyoman Transport Safe and professional English-speaking driver with comfortable air conditioned car (seats 5 - 6). Private airport transfers or airport to Kuta, Mataram, Senggigi, Gilis, etc. Available for private charter and Lombok tours. Competitive rates and friendly service!
HOUSE FOR SALE INVESTMENT – RENTAL INCOME – HOME
Located in secure and elite Graha Permata Kota Complex in Selagalas, next to Harapan Keluarga Hospital. Land size: 105m2. 2 Bedrooms, 1 bathroom, kitchen, laundry, carport, water and electricity. Certificate HGB (Hak Guna Bangun). 10 minutes to Mataram. 20 Minutes to Senggigi
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Lombok’s Boutique Hotel [ The Lonely Planet: “Best Place to Stay in Lombok” ] [ Cosmopolitan: “Lombok’s Hidden Beauty” ] [ Guide du Routard: “Le Reve!” ] Jl. Raya Mangsit, Senggigi, Lombok | Phone: +62 370 693 800 Email: email@example.com | Website: www.quncivillas.com
REMEMBERING LOMBOK’S WAR HISTORY ANZAC Day takes place every year on 25 April. The term ‘ANZAC’ stands for ‘Australian and New Zealand Army Corps’.
Each year, Australians and New Zealanders living in Lombok hold a Dawn Service to remember and honour the men and women who served in wars to defend a way of life; and especially those who gave their lives in the fight. This year, Senggigi expat resident Malcolm Sinclair delivered the Dawn Service address, which was an interesting insight into the role Lombok played in WWII. Not much is written about our island’s history during the war, so it is a privilege to publish Malcolm’s address below.
ANZAC DAY DAWN SERVICE ADDRESS - SENGGIGI 2017 By Malcolm Sinclair We are all aware of the allied campaigns in the Middle East and Europe in WWI & II and the significance of what occurred at ANZAC Cove, Gallipoli.
Following this occupation, securing the Lombok Strait (the sea channel between Bali and Lombok) became a Japanese priority in order to prevent allied access between Australia and Singapore.
However, today I would like to focus a little closer to home and recount some of the remarkable stories from war in the Pacific, particularly the parts that occurred in Lombok and the Lombok Strait.
The Lombok Strait is the only deep water passage from the Indian Ocean to the Java Sea in this part of Indonesia, and was of great strategic importance in the Second World War. Most underwater passages by US, British, Dutch and Australian submarines from the big base at Fremantle were made through it.
The original Lombok port was in Ampenan. Heading south from Senggigi to the ‘5-ways’ intersection in Ampenan, with Bank Danamon on the left, turn right and follow that road to the old port. There was a longish wooden jetty there a couple of hundred metres from the existing Pertamina fuel jetty and storage facilities. There is a photo of the jetty at Mataram Museum. In early May 1942, a series of air strikes destroyed the jetty and the Dutch trading ships and ferries moored there. At 5pm on the 9th of May, Japanese landing craft discharged tanks and personnel carriers with infantry, which subsequently charged through to Mataram. After a brief battle with an outnumbered Dutch force, Mataram was secured and the hence the Japanese took control of Lombok.
The fast and turbulent currents sometimes forced these submarines to surface. The Japanese navy knew this and patrolled the channel. As part of this defense, two gun emplacements were built. One, positioned on the hill on Gili Trawangan, pointed toward Bali; the second was on the far Southwest Lombok coast at Bangko Bangko, where they could pick off sea traffic as it negotiated the treacherous passage. The Japanese conducted naval patrols and regular air cover was maintained between the two positions. As Gili T was originally a penal colony, the Japanese had a readily available slave
Ampenan Port 1940
labour force of about 200 convicts, of which only a handful survived the war. With difficulty you can still find the zigzag access track with machine gun pits at each turn leading to the emplacement on Gili T. Three caves were dug into the limestone and finished with reinforced concrete. The central one had a long tunnel used as a dormitory and storage for supplies and ammunitions. There were two outer gun emplacements. These guns were circa WWI long barrel marine cannons with vertical movement (but no lateral) to guard the relatively narrow Lombok Strait to Bali. One cave appears to have taken a direct hit, while the other still has the gun mount in place. The barrel is rusting away amongst rubble in the grounds of the new mosque under construction on Gili T. The Bangko Bangko guns I referred to earlier were relatively modern field pieces at the time, allowing them to cover the greater distance required. Their remains are still in place but extremely difficult to access. In the late stages of 1945, following a bombing raid on the Bangko Bangko guns, four members of a combined Australian and British Z Force team were dispatched to assess the damage, if any, from the bombing raid and gain intelligence for access by a later demolition team if required. We have local historian and author, Mark Heyward, to thank for uncovering this previously ‘Top Secret’ story known as ‘Operation Starfish’. In the final months of the war, a band of four young men – Australian and British Z-Force commandos – went behind enemy lines to reconnoiter the south of Lombok: Lawrie Black, Alex Hoffie, Malcolm Gillies and James Crofton-Moss. Four went and two returned.
39 Reynold’s boat was ordered to be shipped back to Australia where it was re-fitted and converted to appear like a trawler. It was renamed ‘MV Krait’, after the venomous Asian viper.
An air operation had attempted to destroy the guns at Bangko Bangko. Their mission, codenamed Starfish, was to determine the condition of the guns, to gather intelligence on enemy defences, and if necessary to lay the ground for a demolition team which would follow to destroy the guns. ‘The Starfish’ unit spent six weeks all told on Lombok. They were landed by the US submarine ‘US Rook’ first at Selong Belanak Beach where supplies were buried, and then moved to Pengantap Bay, where they hid supplies and an inflatable dingy and outboard in a cave on an ocean front cliff. After about three weeks, they requested an additional radio, as the backup power pack was rapidly fading. The Command Centre in Darwin arranged a successful night parachute drop of a new radio and additional supplies. The local Sasak people gave assistance to the command of chicken, eggs, vegetables and information on the Japanese. A substantial amount of information was gathered and later reported back to Command in Darwin. Around a month into their posting, the group became separated and James Crofton-Moss was captured. Not long later, as they finished breakfast, the group was surrounded by Japanese, and Malcolm Gillies was wounded and captured.
Commanded by Capt Lyon and crewed by 13 other Z Force members drawn from the Australian Navy and Army, ‘The Krait’ set sail from the training base in Broken Bay, NSW via Thursday Island to the US naval base at Exmouth Gulf. Here it underwent some minor repairs, re-fuelled and, on the 2nd of September 1943, set sail for Singapore via the Lombok Strait.
Hence the minesweeper was extremely vulnerable but, in a stroke of ingenuity to reduce its susceptibility to attack, the crew devised a plan to camouflage it. They went ashore and chopped down sufficient trees to cover the infrastructure and the bulk of the hull. The remainder of the hull was painted to resemble rocks and cliff face. Thus it became a mobile island. Mooring close to the shoreline by day and going as far as possible at night, it eventually made its way to Australia. If we were standing on the beach in mid September 1943, we would have seen a lone Japanese fishing trawler cruising past heading north. This was ‘The Krait’ of ‘Operation Jaywick’ fame.
The remaining two, Black and Hoffie, made it out a few days later, having found their way back to the first camp and south to the coast. They retrieved the dingy and outboard and were eventually picked up by a Catalina Flying Boat. Malcolm Gillies and James Crofton-Moss lie in the Commonwealth War Cemetery in Ambon. Both were captured and beheaded by the Japanese. Three months later, the bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki were dropped.
On the night of 24th September, it moored off a small Indonesian island close to Singapore, and the crew paddled into the harbour in two-man collapsible canoes and placed magnetic limpet mines on the Japanese ships before returning to ‘The Krait’. The Japanese command could not conceive this allied sea attack. The repercussions of the attack became known as ‘10/10’, as on the 10th of October the notorious Kempi Tei Japanese Military Police rounded up 57 Singapore Chinese and Malays that they considered sympathetic to the allies. They were interrogated and interned, and fifteen people were executed. ‘10/10’ is still a Singapore day of mourning. In the meantime, ‘The Krait’ had cruised past Lombok, again making its way safely back to Australia. The planning had been meticulous down to additional Asian packaging that was carried onboard to be dumped overboard with other waste; care was taken that no Australian origin packaging was jettisoned. The tiny ‘MV Krait’ accounted for more Japanese tonnage than any other Australian Navy ship throughout the war.
Following the Battle of the Java Sea in early February 1942, and the loss of the mighty ‘USS Houston’, four Dutch warships remained, including three frigates with a good turn of speed and maneuverability.
Behind ‘The Krait’ lies an extraordinary story. 28 year-old Captain Ivan Lyon, of the ‘Gordon Highlanders’, had escaped Singapore and was a member of SOA Special Operations Australia, when he was approached by a 61year old civilian Bill Reynolds(MBE).
However, regrettably, Capt Ivan Lyon, while later leading another Z Force raid, ‘Operation Rimau’ in October 1944, was captured along with his men. He and most of the Z Force group were executed, some within the last week of the war.
The odd one out was the small minesweeper ‘HNLMS Abraham Crijnssen’ which had a maximum speed of 15kts, and one forward mounted 3-inch gun and 2 x 220-mil cannons.
Reynolds had been a Singapore resident pre-war and had used his personal vessel, a 70ft converted Japanese fishing boat, to evacuate himself and a number of others to India.
As you can see, we are surrounded by acts of ingenuity, valour and heroism from the Pacific War right here in our own backyard, which reflect the true character and nature of ANZAC Day.
w w w. l o t u s - r e s t a u r a n t s . c o m
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LOMBOK’S ICONIC LUMBUNG
Lombok’s unique ‘Lumbung’ architecture, with its distinctive rounded and arched roof, has become one of the most recognisable symbols of the island.
The word Lumbung, in the indigenous Sasak language, generally refers to a ‘rice barn’ – the thatched roofed building where sheaves of harvested rice are stored for future use. Newly harvested and properly dried sheaves of rice will last up to a year in these barns. In the past, each village would have originally had its’ own Lumbung, some of which would be communal, while larger land owners would have their own private rice barns. The main feature of this structure is the four main support posts around which the barn is constructed. They are smooth, round and polished hardwood columns designed to prevent animals – mainly domestic cats, mice, rats, snakes and lizards – from climbing up into the barn above and nesting in and/or eating the rice. Despite this precaution, some acrobatic rodents do manage to get in occasionally! The bottom part of the barn is an open sided area supported by the polished columns, with a wooden or bamboo floored communal sitting area some 50 centimetres off the ground. Lumbung at Sade Village near Kuta
Storing rice sheaves
Above that, about a metre and a half above the ground, is the storage part of the structure sheathed tightly with alang alang grass; a type of sturdy grass used mainly for roofing. The only access to the barn is a small opening in the side entered via a bamboo ladder which is removed after use. The opening is closed with a tight fitting shutter of woven bamboo, ensuring that bats and birds, including domestic fowl, do not make their homes in among the sheaves of rice.
Basic Lumbung accommodation
43 Rice has been grown in this region for over 10,000 years, and no knows when the first rice barn was built, though it is fair to speculate that they must have been around for many hundreds of years â€“ if not a few thousand â€“ in one form or another. Unfortunately these buildings are getting rarer, many falling into disrepair as the years go by. This is due to a number of reasons; one being the cost of repairs or replacing them.
However, the distinctive shape of the Lumbung has become a popular symbol of Lombok and the heritage is being carried on in the construction of tourist accommodation. The high arched ceilings of the upper floor create airy bedrooms, while the covered space underneath is ideal for seating, lounging areas or even a hammock Stylish Lumbung on Gili T
They are also are becoming redundant as more modern methods of processing and storing rice have been introduced. These days, mobile rice de-husking machines travel from village to village in the harvesting season. They leave behind them sacks of polished white rice, which require very little room for storage compared to the bulky sheaves of cut rice stalks. The barn is topped with a steeply arched roof, again of many layers of the long alang alang grass, to ensure it is waterproof and that the heavy tropical rains run straight down the sides of the barn to the ground, giving it little chance to soak through to damage the stored rice.
Some of the rice is now sold directly to third parties and sent straight to the larger, modern industrial storage facilities. It is sad to see these iconic buildings become victims of progress, slowly disappearing.
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THE CITIES The three main cities in Lombok – Ampenan, Mataram and Cakranegara – have expanded over the years and now merge together to create what is, for Lombok, an urban sprawl of shops, administrative centres and residential areas.
A visit to the cities makes an interesting day trip, exploring the numerous small shops selling everything imaginable from everyday items to gold and pearls. There are many pearl shops in Ampenan selling unset pearls and pearl jewellery at attractive prices. These are genuine pearls – some cheap quality from China and the more expensive ones are farmed in Lombok and Sumbawa. If you bargain the price, you can usually get a good deal. There are gold shops in both Ampenan and Cakra with 24 kt gold being sold by the gram at market price. For cheap and interesting food choices, explore the many restaurants, warung and food stalls in the cities. Or just wander around the streets to soak up the atmosphere and discover fascinating insights into Lombok city life!
Also worth visiting is the cultural centre, Taman Budaya on Jl Majapahit. Music and dance performances are presented here regularly. Phone: 622428 for details.
Cakranegara (usually abbreviated to “Cakra”) is Lombok’s main shopping area. It is also home to many Chinese and Balinese, who make up over 50 percent of the city’s population. The streets of the city make an interesting walk with gold shops, sporting goods, clothing and fabric stores selling imported silks, laces and cottons, to name a few. There is a local market at the main intersection in Cakra; turn right at the traffic lights and look for the entrance to the market on the left. Inside is a labyrinth of stalls selling everything from baskets to fresh flowers and local foods. The next large town east of Cakra is Sweta. The Bertais bus terminal is located here for connections to the east of the island and beyond. Near the bus terminal there is a huge local market every day with all kinds of goods on sale, from foodstuffs to clothing, exotic birds, handicrafts and more. Shopping
Ampenan was the original port in Lombok during Dutch colonial times and some of the old architecture is still visible around the town, particularly toward the beach to the west where the remnants of the port are slipping into the sea. The streets become a market at night, filled with warung and kaki lima (food carts) for cheap, tasty food and local flavour. Kebun Roek, just near the traffic lights in Ampenan on the road from the old Selaparang airport, is the site of the local markets. Every day traders set up stalls selling fresh produce from around the island, local snacks and products, live chickens and fresh fish in the afternoon when the fishing boats come in. A stroll through the markets is a pungent and enlightening experience! Mataram, about 3 km to the east of Ampenan, is the administrative centre for Lombok and Sumbawa (NTB Province), with government offices, banks, mosques, schools and colleges, bookstores, the main post office, and Mataram University downtown. In Mataram, the Nusa Tenggara Barat Museum houses historical and cultural artefacts from Lombok and Sumbawa. It’s an interesting place to visit and occasionally hosts special exhibits. Displays include exhibits on geology, history and culture. Address: Jl Panji Tilar. Ph: 632159 for opening times. There is a small admission fee.
supermarket, and other small retailers, as well as cafes and food stores. Nearby Temples and Places of Interest Pura Meru on Jl Selaparang, Cakranegara, was built in 1720 by Balinese Prince Anak Agung Made Karang and is the largest temple on Lombok. Its three meru are for the Hindu trinity – Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. This is an important temple for the Balinese here and its annual Pujawali festival, held over five days during the full moon in September or October, is the biggest Balinese Hindu event on Lombok. The outer courtyard hall has large drums used to announce ceremonies and festivals. In the central courtyard are two buildings with raised offering platforms. The interior enclosure has 33 shrines as well as the three multi-tiered meru.
Lombok Epicentrum Mall on Jl Sriwijaya (see cities map) was opened in October 2015 and is a large, modern shopping centre with four floors of retail outlets. The complex houses a Hypermart supermarket and a Matahari Department Store, as well as a Cinema XXI movie theatre and Timezone entertainment centre. There is a well-stocked Ace Hardware store, an Informa furniture store, and a Guardian pharmacy. Other retailers sell a wide variety of fashion, shoes, electronics, sporting goods, and much more. There are many food outlets and cafes, as well as Bread Talk, J. Co, Starbucks, Excelso, The Coffee Bean, Wendy’s and more. Lombok City Centre on Jl Raya Narmada (the main road east of Sweta) is Lombok’s newest mall and is still in the final stages of construction. However, some stores are already open for business in LCC including Matahari Department Store, Hypermart
The caretaker will meet you and give you a sash to wear in the temple. Please sign the guestbook and give a donation.
Pura Mayura, just across the street from Pura Meru, was built in 1744 as the court temple of the last Balinese kings in Lombok. An open hall or bale kambang (floating pavilion) stands in the middle of a large artificial lake here and an interesting temple is sheltered under huge old trees at the rear of the lake. The gardens and the adjoining Pura Jagatnatha temple complex are a peaceful place to escape the bustle of the city and well worth exploring. Taman Mayura is open every day, from 8am to 8pm; admission is Rp 5000 per person. The gardens are popular on weekends so the best time to visit is during the weekdays.
54 Southwest Lombok... a meandering coastline of pristine white sand beaches and thirteen small islands - the Southwest Gilis - floating in the sparkling turquoise waters just offshore. Unlike the famous ‘Gili Islands’ in northwest Lombok, the Southwest Gilis are largely uninhabited and have yet to be discovered by most travellers... that’s why we call them ‘The Secret Islands’!
The Southwest Secret Islands, Pristine Beaches!
The picturesque Sekotong region starts just south of Lembar Harbour and features stunning beaches and bays set against a backdrop of rolling green hills. The drive down the southwest coast is an enjoyable trip, meandering through villages where life is largely untouched by tourism and where the people are involved in their day-to-day activities of farming, fish cultivation, boating and fishing, brickmaking and other traditional pastimes. Along the roadsides you will see people selling freshly caught fish, laying out hand-made bricks to dry in the sun, working in the fields, and sometimes guiding primitive wooden ploughs harnessed to huge water buffalo, as they prepare the fields for planting. The peaceful village of Taun (or Tawun), is situated on a wide, placid bay in Sekotong. The ocean is sparkling turquoise and the dazzling white sand stretches in a wide sweep around the bay. Just out in the calm bay are the three lovely islands of Gili Nanggu, Gili Tangkong and Gili Sudat (and the tiny island of Gili Kedis) – all easily accessible by local outrigger boats. A small sign in the nearby village will direct you to the local boat hire area, where you can arrange boat trips out to Gili Nanggu and the other islands. Accommodation at Taun has grown over the past few years and there are now a few small hotels and home stays on the bay such as the lovely Silver Fern Beach Retreat, Coral Palms, Villa Yukie and Krisna Bungalows. It’s easy to base yourself on the mainland and take boat trips to explore all the southwest islands from here. Gili Nanggu has accommodation for visitors, with Gili Nanggu Cottages providing simple cottages on the beach and a restaurant, as well as deluxe rooms further back from the beach. The island is small and the beach has soft white sand and a good reef just offshore for snorkelling. There is also simple accommodation at
Nirvana on Gili Sudat (the island closest to Gili Genting sits just off the tip of the the mainland). peninsular and at low tide you can walk across the sandbar and explore this Back on the main road and slightly uninhabited island. Old volcanic rocks and further south is the turn off for Cocotinos stone carved from centuries of tidal flow Boutique Beach Resort, set on the create small caves and alcoves, providing secluded beach at Tanjung Empat. shelter for picnics and interesting nooks With 28 rooms, including beachfront villas and crannies to explore. with private swimming pools, Cocotinos is Further south you will come to the only the only upmarket accommodation on the petrol station along the south coastal road mainland. at Tembowong Village. Nearby is the site Scuba diving courses and dives, operated for catching boats out to Gili Gede. Gili by Odyssea Divers, are available from the Gede is easily reached by boat from the resort, together with snorkelling, boating village of Tembowong and is only minutes and other sea sports. across the water. Fronting the resort is a glorious white sand beach which spans over 300m, part of which is a private cove. Facilities include a 17m beach front swimming pool, a restaurant overlooking the bay, the Laleina Spa on the waterfront, a boat jetty, and diving and boating facilities.
Slightly further south is Sundancer Resort, with its distinctive blue roofs dotted on the hillside overlooking another white sand beach. The hotel development was started many years ago and is still under construction. Travelling a little further south, before the marine culture complex (Balai Budaya Laut), there is a small dirt road leading out onto a white peninsular of sand that juts into beautiful clear waters. Drive to the end for superb views and a close up look at Gili Genting.
The largest of the islands in the area is Gili Gede, appropriately meaning ‘Big Island’. The island lays just offshore and is so large visitors often mistake it for part of the mainland. Gili Gede is one of the few islands in the area that has a choice of accommodation, including the luxurious ko – ko - mo Gili Gede Resort, which opened in February 2016. ko - ko - mo Gili Gede is the sister resort to ko – ko - mo Resort on Gili Trawangan and is a stylish all villa resort, comprising fifteen 1 and 2 bedroom villas with private swimming pools, and one bedroom Villa Kecil (small villas), spread out over spacious grounds on a pristine beachfront. All modern comforts such as air conditioning and ceiling fans, flat screen televisions with satellite channels and DVD, WiFi, fresh (not salt) hot water, plentiful power points for charging devices, and more are provided in each villa. Facilities at the resort include a tennis court, a putting green, a small gym, a resort swimming pool and purpose-built Spa facility and a beachfront restaurant. Guests at the restaurant can enjoy up-market
dining with a menu prepared from fresh locally-sourced seafood, imported Australian meats and in-house breads and bakery items. There is also an outstanding wine and drinks list. ko – ko - mo has a purpose-built jetty at the front of the resort and operate their own fast boat service under the ‘Gili Getaway’ mantle between Bali, Gili T, Senggigi and Gili Gede... making Gili Gede easily accessible, even for a day trip. Other choices for simple accommodation on Gili Gede include Secret Island Resort on the south, Via Vaccare on the northwest and Yut Inn and Madak Belo on the east. Each provides meals and can arrange boat trips, island hopping and snorkelling around the islands. Gili Gede is large enough to provide a range of activities such as hiking to the hills in the centre for fantastic views across the other islands, exploring deserted beaches and hidden coves, and meeting the people living on the island, who are very friendly and, as yet, unspoilt by tourism. To the south of Gili Gede, the islands of Gili Ringgit, Layar and Asahan are lined up like secret treasures in the calm sea. Bounty Cruises, a Bali based company, own a large parcel of land on Gili Ringgit and have constructed a boat mooring and pier on the island. There is good snorkelling on the west side of Gili Ringgit, accessed by boat. Large gardens of hard and soft corals lay just beneath the surface and the reef extends along most of the island’s coast. On the other side of the island is where the pier is located, with a fantastic white sand beach. It is a favourite for guests from other nearby islands who come to the island to swim, snorkel and relax, as the scenery and beach here are so lovely. It’s easy to snorkel offshore, just north of the pier and, although the reef isn’t as large as on the other side of the island, there is still plenty to see. Bright blue starfish drape themselves across patches of coral, and bright yellow and black Moorish Idols dart through the water. Schools of hundreds of small iridescent fish swim past and weirdly shaped squid drift by in the deeper areas. For diving enthusiasts, Dive Zone, who operate out of Desert Point Lodge in Labuhan Poh, is a well-run diving facility and the experts on diving the southwest
There are small home-stays and private accommodations spaced out along the road to BangkoBangko – known as Desert Point and the surfing Mecca for those in the know – located on the far southwest tip of Lombok. islands, having pioneered development of previously unknown dive sites in this area. Dive Zone offer dive trips around Sekotong and the islands, as well as in Belongas Bay, South Lombok and on Gili Air in the northwest. Tourists who take trips with Dive Zone commonly describe the diving around the southwest as some of the best they’ve ever experienced. Many are astounded by the pristine conditions and huge schools of turtles seen near Gili Layar – the island between Gili Ringgit and Gili Asahan. There is accommodation at Layar Beach Bungalows and, although the bungalows are simple, they are comfortable and clean and the location right on the beach is superb. There is also a restaurant here serving delicious fresh juices and tasty meals. Slightly further south, beautiful Gili Asahan attracts visitors with its deserted white sand beaches, clear calm waters and swaying palm trees. Both Gili Asahan Eco Lodge and Pearl Beach Resort offer comfortable accommodation in charming bungalows and each have restaurants, providing good dining options on the island. Leaving Gili Asahan and back on the mainland, continue south on the coastal road until you come to a main intersection.
The wide white sand bay is lined with fisherman’s huts and draws hundreds of surfers every year from as far away as Hawaii and Brazil to challenge the huge waves of Desert Point, just offshore. Although the road deteriorates after Labuhan Poh, it is still passable for most vehicles in the dry season. During the surfing season, from mid-May to September and again in December, the beach is buzzing with surfers, but otherwise it is a remote and peaceful area. Bali is clearly visible, with the island of Nusa Penida only about an hour’s sail away. The drive to the point is dotted with bucolic scenery and tiny villages, making it a worthwhile trip even for non-surfers. There is basic surfer accommodation in the area and plans for development in the near future. Those who wish to explore the underwater world of the Southwest Gilis can join dive adventures with either Dive Zone in Labuhan Poh or Odyssea Divers at Cocotinos The dive sites reflect a good cross-section of what Indonesian diving has to offer. Dive in and be fascinated by turtles, white tip reef sharks, cuttlefish, moray eels and many other varieties of marine life. The reefs are full of colourful corals, which harbour an amazing variety of marine life, including ghost pipe fish, leaf fish, pygmy seahorses and much more.
A signpost to the left leads to the spectacular large bay at Mekaki. The road to the right leads to Labuhan Poh and Pelangan, the site of Bola Bola Paradis.
For non-divers, the islands are a delight for snorkelling – abundant coral reefs lay just below the surface waiting to be explored, filled with thousands of brightly coloured tropical fish, huge sprawling blue starfish and magical turtles gently gliding through the water.
This is a small hotel, situated right on the beachfront, with comfortable and clean rooms at reasonable prices. The hotel also organises snorkelling tours and is a popular choice for those surfing at Bangko-Bangko.
It’s easy to imagine hotels and resorts on all these beaches and islands in the future but for now, the Southwest is unspoilt and the Gilis remain the secret islands… stunningly beautiful, pristine and unique, and visited only by the lucky few.
Kuta by Barbara
KUTA AND THE SUBLIME SOUTH COAST
Lombok boasts some of the most magnificent scenery in Indonesia and the south coast of Lombok easily rates among the best!
South Lombok is a region on the move and it’s easy to see why so many people are investing here. The south coast has views that inspire – and leaves visitors from around the world speechless at the sublime panoramic beauty that unfolds beach after beautiful beach. Tourists are drawn to the stunning beaches of the south coast for the pure white sands and the crystal clear oceans, as well as some of the best surf breaks in Indonesia. Kuta (sometimes spelt Kute) is the main town and tourism centre on the south coast of Lombok, and is the hub for exploring the fantastic southern beaches and the many places of interest in the region. The Lombok International Airport (locally known as BIL) is the only commercial airport on Lombok and is located just 25 minutes’ drive north of Kuta , making access to the south very easy. Located around 60 km south of Mataram, and about one and a half hour’s drive from Senggigi, Kuta makes for a wonderful
day trip from other points in Lombok, or an alternative holiday destination for travellers exploring Lombok. Major roads have been upgraded and the main road to Kuta is very good. The proximity to the airport has sparked an investment boom in the area over the past couple of years and Kuta has blossomed, with many new hotels, restaurants and cafes catering to increased numbers of tourists. The proposed Mandalika Resort development, with its plans for luxury hotels, villas and supporting facilities on over 1000 hectares of prime beach land, will further transform the south coast in coming years.
But for now, the south is uncrowded, pristine and spectacular. The drive down to the south coast is an interesting rural tour through small villages and farming communities. Fields of tobacco, corn and peanuts line the roadsides and farmers till the fields using antiquated ploughs pulled by large water buffalo. Just before arriving in Kuta, the road passes two traditional Sasak villages – Sade and Rambitan. On the east side of the road is Rambitan, a village that caters to tourists and has authentic clusters of thatched Lumbung, or rice barns, and traditional homes made of thatch and bamboo, with hardened cow and buffalo dung floors. Nearby, on the hilltop, is one of the oldest mosques in Lombok, Mesjid Kuno. The small building with a thatched roof is considered holy and many believers make pilgrimages to pray here. Slightly further south is Sade, a hilltop village with more Lumbung and traditional homes. Both villages have been renovated and cater to the tourist market, but are still interesting examples of traditional Sasak architecture and communal living within the compounds, where life continues as it has for centuries. Continued on Page 58
58 Continued from Page 57
Residents, who act as guides for a small fee, encourage walks through either of these villages and are happy to share a glimpse of their lifestyles with visitors. Kuta itself is a small town that is transforming every year. In the past, it offered mainly home-stays and backpacker’s hotels catering to the thousands of surfers from around the world who are drawn to the area every year to surf the left- and right-hand breaks out in the bay.
These days, there is a good variety of accommodation to suit all budgets and tastes, plus many restaurants and tourist facilities. With investment taking off, more options are opening all the time. At present, Kuta boasts just one luxury resort: the Novotel Lombok. The Novotel has a range of accommodation, from comfortable hotel rooms to spacious suites and luxurious villas, some with private swimming pools.
First-timers to Kuta can benefit from an orientation tour operated by Mimpi Manis Homestay in Kuta. The long-established guest house is popular with budget travelers not just for the good value accommodation, but also for the local knowledge the expat British and Balinese couple freely shares with anyone visiting Kuta. Orientation tours are also available to outside guests and usually include a tour of Kuta and its main attractions, as well as visits to nearby Seger Beach and Tanjung Aan. Other tours can be arranged to take in your particular interests, as well as transfers, car and motorbike rental, Rinjani trekking and more. Mimpi Manis also runs “Shore Thing” fishing trips and boat tours at reasonable rates. Visit their website for details: www.mimpimanis.com Otherwise, hire a car or motorbike and you can spend days visiting beautiful, mainly deserted beaches, both to the east and west of Kuta.
Just east of Kuta is Seger Beach (sometimes called Mandalika Beach, after the legendary Princess Mandalika – a beloved character in Sasak Designed to blend in with the environment, folklore who is believed to have sacrificed herself and with a stunning beachfront location, for the good of her the Novotel is a wonderful example of people from the rocks traditional Sasak architecture. overlooking the beach). Kuta attracts thousands of visitors It is here that thousands of every year for the great surf locations at people gather every year Gerupuk, Ekas and the beaches to the to celebrate the colourful east. It’s easy to hire a board and a surf ritual of Bau Nyale, when guide from here to learn surfing or, for masses of sea worms experienced surfers, to access the more spawn in the waters challenging surf breaks in the area. offshore.
There are great views from the beach and even better views if you climb the surrounding hills. There are small stalls selling drinks and snacks to enjoy after taking a swim or a stroll to enjoy the views. The government has built a rather ugly building here to host the annual Bau Nyale Festival but nearby there is a lovely monument in the bay commemorating the Mandalika Legend. Tanjung Aan, around 5kms east of Kuta, is a long picturesque beach with a wide sweep of white sand, perfect aquamarine water and shady trees on the shore. At the far west end is “Warung Turtle”, a charming beach café that sells cold drinks and beer, as well as surprisingly good meals. Guests are welcome to relax on the sun lounges on the beach in front of Warung Turtle and spend the day swimming in the calm waters. Dine on the beachfront or in the shade of the café. The fresh grilled fish and the Chicken in Red Sauce are both highly recommended. The Warung has snorkeling equipment, surfboards and stand-up paddle boards for hire and the local owner, Herman, is a friendly host with a wealth of information to help make the most of your visit.
Kuta and The South Coast
Further west are picturesque Sepi and Blongas bays, and many more scenic beaches along the way; all are mostly deserted.
Continued from Page 58
The road deteriorates rapidly and the going can be rough at times. For exploring this remote area it’s best to use an experienced local guide with a good vehicle.
Mawun Beach by Asriel aryadi www.instagram.com/asrielharyadi
Further east is Gerupuk – well known as a top surf location and situated on a peninsula of land that juts out into the ocean, with stunning views of the sea, and the surrounding islands and bays. There is a good surf school here and no fewer than five surf breaks. The beaches and scenery continue all the way to the east coast, with fantastic places such as Bumbang, Awang Bay, Ekas and Pantai Sorga (Heaven Beach)… the name says it all! At Bumbang, Bumbangku Beach Cottages has simple thatched cottages and comfortable brick deluxe rooms right on a beautiful deserted beach.
activities, such as surfing, snorkelling, kayaking, wind-surfing and more. Heading west from Kuta are another series of beautiful beaches and bays hidden behind headlands and rolling hills, providing peaceful and secluded spots for picnics and swimming. All are within easy day trips of Kuta. Mawun Beach is around 30 minutes’ drive to the west and is an almost circular bay with small green headlands rolling into the ocean from either side. It is a spectacular beach with calm blue waters, perfect for swimming and spending a day lazing on the white sand.
Mawi, around another 7km to the west, There is a good restaurant, serving fresh has good right- and left-hand barrels for fish and seafood caught by local fishermen, surfing when the swell is large enough. and easy access to the best surfing spots At other times, it is a lovely beach with nearby. impressive views of Gili Lawang just Further east, Heaven on the Planet and offshore; look for the three startling Ocean Heaven (collectively known as pinnacles of rock jutting out of the ocean. HOTPlanet) offers accommodation, a Selong Belanak is a long sweeping bay restaurant, swimming pool, a Spa and framed on each end by headlands and Wellness Centre and a host of water surrounded by rolling hills. Sempiak Villas has plush villas perched on the hillside overlooking the bay with breathtaking panoramic views. Laut Biru Bar and Restaurant at Sempiak Villas is a popular place for a stop – and justifies a day trip in itself – serving fresh and delicious snacks and meals throughout the day in a pretty restaurant on the beach. Spend a day exploring the area, with lunch and a swim here as the highlights of your trip.
Steeped in history and legend, surrounded by beaches of almost surreal beauty, the south coast is a fascinating area to visit, whether your interests are historical, cultural or just the opportunity to see and explore some of the most beautiful and pristine coastal scenery in Indonesia.
THE SOUTH LOMBOK COMMUNITY ASSOCIATION The South Lombok Community Association (SLCA) is an association of businesses, investors and residents in South Lombok working with government and local communities to improve conditions in Kuta and surrounding areas on the south coast. The SLCA carries out a number of important services including the improvement of security and safety in the south, rubbish collection and waste management, and environmental projects such as “Clean Up” events in Kuta and at the surrounding beaches. The association is self-funded and all south coast residents and businesses are encouraged to support this community initiative. If you are visiting Kuta, please help SLCA keep up their work – clearly marked donation boxes are placed in a number of local businesses and even a small donation can help towards funding rubbish bins and community projects. To join SLCA, or support their work with a donation, please email email@example.com
Kuta and The South Coast
Kuta and The South Coast
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Kuta and The South Coast
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USEFUL CONTACTS EMERGENCY SERVICES Senggigi Police (POLSEK Senggigi): Jl Raya Senggigi. Phone: 0370 693267 | 632733 Lombok Police (POLDA NTB): Jl Gajah Mada 7, Mataram. Ph: 0370 693110. Emergency No: 110 Fire Brigade: Phone: 0370 672013. Emergency No: 113 State Hospital UGD (Emergency Unit Service): Phone: 0370 622254 Ambulance: Phone: 0370 623489. Emergency No: 118 Emergency Rescue (RSU Mataram) Ph: 0370 620009. HOSPITALS (Rumah Sakit) Rumah Sakit Harapan Keluarga Jl Ahmad Yani 9, Selagalas. Ph: 0370 670000 | 6177000. Emergency (24hrs): 6177009. Mataram Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Mataram) Jl Pejanggik No 6, Mataram Phone: 0370 6660224 | 638464
TAXI Blue Bird Taxi, Ph: 0370 627000 AIRPORT BUS / DAMRI Senggigi / Mataram, Ph: 370 642947 | 0878 6475 5513 | 0813 9862 4975 IMMIGRATION Jl Udayana, Mataram, Ph: 0370 632520 PUBLIC SERVICES ELECTRICITY PLN Mataram. Ph: 0370 643123 PLN Senggigi. Ph: 0370 693535 WATER PDAM Mataram. Ph: 0370 632510 PDAM Senggigi. Ph: 0370 693886 TELKOM (Phone/Internet). Ph: 0370 147 Directory Assistance (Lombok Phone Numbers): Ph. 0370 108 POST OFFICES (Kantor Pos)
New NTB Province Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Propinsi) Jalan Prabu Rangkasari, Dasan Cermen Phone: 0370 7502424
Mataram Jl Sriwijaya. Ph: 0370 632645 Senggigi Jl Raya Senggigi. Ph: 0370 693711
Central Lombok Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Praya) Jl H Lalu Hasyim, Tiwugalih, Praya. Phone: 0370 6635050
AUSTRALIA Phone: 0361 2000100. Emergency: +61 26261 3305. Email: Bali.firstname.lastname@example.org
East Lombok Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Dr R Sudjono) Jl Professor M Yamin No 55, Selong, East Lombok. Phone: 0376 21599 Biomedika Hospital Jl Bung Karno 143, Mataram. Phone: 0370 645137 Risa Sentra Medika Hospital Jl Pejanggik 115, Cakranegara. Phone: 0370 625560 | 632117 DENTISTS (Dr Gigi) Drg. Farida Istiarini, Sp.Ort (Joli Sourire Dental Care) 1st Floor at Lombok Epicentrum Mall. Jl Sriwijaya, Mataram. Ph: 0878 6490 1535 Drg. Yuanita Jl Sriwijaya (opposite Kura-Kura Waterpark). Ph: 0812 3763 156 Drg. Mumu Jl Bung Hatta 14, Mataram. Ph: 0853 3730 7008 VETS (Dr Hewan) / PET CARE Dr Gede (Nobel Petshop) Jl Sriwijaya (Nex t to Town Palace). Ph: 0370 6160300 Dr. I Gede Sudiana (FB: lombokanimalrescue) Jl Sadewa 9, Cakra. Ph: 0878 6585 6260 Dr. Ajus. Ph: 0878 6441 3232 Dr. Yoses Kristianto (DC Petshop) Jl Saleh Sungkar, Ampenan. Ph: 0819 99831337 Dr Dwik. Ph: 0819 99831337 Dr Irfan. Ph: 0817 579 0834 Dr Nurul (Kuta). Ph: 0818 0366 2612
BELGIUM Phone: 0343 740274. Emergency: 021 3162030. Email: Stefaan.email@example.com BRAZIL Phone: 0361 8446530. Emergency: 0821 44440018. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org BRITAIN Phone: 021 23565200. Emergency: 0811 8860053. Email: Consulate.Bali@fco.gov.uk CHILE Phone: 0361 756781. Emergency: 021 29401677. Email: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa. com CHINA Phone: 0361 239001. Emergency: 081239169767. Email: chinaconsul_dps_id@ mfa.gov.cn CZECH REPUBLIC Phone: 0361 286408. Emergency: 0812 3970129. Email: email@example.com DENMARK & NORWAY Phone: 0361-8216979. Emergency: 0361 766638 | 0812 39186023. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
HUNGARY Phone: 0361 287701. Emergency: 0811 389680. Email: email@example.com INDIA Ph. 0361 259502/3. Emergency: 08113976388. E: firstname.lastname@example.org ITALY Phone: 0361 701005. Emergency: 0361 701005. Email: email@example.com JAPAN Phone: 0361 227628. Emergency: 0361 227628. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org MEXICO Phone: 0361 223266. Emergency: 0811 399929. Email: email@example.com NEW ZEALAND Phone: 0361 8446456. Emergency: 0819 99477552. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org NORWAY Phone: 0361 282223. Emergency: 0817 9723658. Email: norwegianconsulatebali@ yahoo.com POLAND Phone: 0361 282474. Emergency: 0811 389449. Email: email@example.com PORTUGAL Phone: 0361 975736. Emergency: 0813 38189313. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org RUSSIA Phone: 0851 00791560. Emergency: 021 5222912. Email: email@example.com SLOVAK REPUBLIC Phone: 0361 9005583. Emergency: 0811810680. Email: konsulslowakbali@yahoo. com SOUTH AFRICA Phone: 0361 751223. Emergency: 0857 39114748. Email: bagus.sudibya@ bagusdiscovery.com SPAIN Phone: 0361 975736. Emergency: 0818 365920. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org SRI LANKA Phone: 0361 726200. Emergency: 08123801063. Email: email@example.com SWEDEN Phone: 0361 282223. Emergency: 0817 9723658. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA Phone: 0361 264149. Emergency: 0811 3850041. Email: email@example.com THAILAND Phone: 0361 249461. Emergency: 021 29328190. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
ESTONIA Phone: 021 70 82 8803. Emergency: 0811 987111. Email: email@example.com
TIMUR LESTE Phone: 0361 4722099. Emergency: 0813 38556373. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
FINLAND & SWEDEN Phone: 0361 282223. Emergency: 0817 9723658. Email: finnishconsulatebali@yahoo. com
TUNISIA Phone: 0361 242659. Emergency: 021 52892328. Email: tunisconsulbali@popodanes. org
FRANCE Phone: 0361 4730834. Emergency: 021 23557600. Email: email@example.com
THE NETHERLANDS Phone: 0361 761502. Emergency: 0818 789444. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
GERMANY Phone: 0361-288535. Emergency: 0812 3913938. Email: email@example.com
USA Ph: 0361 233605. Emergency: 0811 334183. Email: CABali@state.gov
MAGNETIC NORTH LOMBOK
For those looking for a change of pace in sublime natural surroundings, North Lombok is a relaxing and rewarding escape.
Bayan is the home of the unique religion, Wetu Telu, which is only found in Lombok. Wetu Telu combines the original Sasak people’s traditional animistic beliefs with Islam and elements of Hinduism. One of the oldest and most important mosques in Lombok, Masjid Kuno, is in Bayan, near the village of Beleq. Believed to have been built in 1634, the mosque sits on a small hill with pretty views. From Bayan the road leads to Senaru, the gateway to the Rinjani National Park and one of the main bases for trekkers climbing Mt Rinjani.
Segara Anak Lake at Mt Rinjani by Iwan Haryanto
Dominated by the majesty of Mt Rinjani and the surrounding mountain ranges, North Lombok offers stunning landscapes for travellers who like to go “off the beaten path”. The many waterfalls and rivers, jungles and rainforest with towering old-growth trees, and the unique flora and fauna of the region – together with long curves of deserted beaches – make the north coast an ideal destination for those who appreciate true natural beauty. North Lombok is one of the oldest settlements on the island and, with Muslims, Hindus and Buddhists living in the district, many different cultural traditions originate from this historic area.
Travelling north, look for the small signpost to Kerta Gangga Waterfalls, located between Gangga and Kerta Raharja village. There are three beautiful waterfalls and pools set amongst the jungle, and a small bat cave nearby. Local guides are useful for showing the best places (they will find you!) Bayan, further north, is steeped in history and maintains old Sasak traditions. This is a fascinating area to explore, although accommodation is limited.
The large town of Tanjung is the administrative capital for North Lombok and has numerous warung and shops, and one of the few public telephone offices (wartel) on the island. Further up the coast, Godang is a small village near a good beach. A trail leads northeast to Tiu Pupus Waterfall, around 6km away. In rainy season, the spring-fed falls flow into a deep pool at the base.
Nestled on the northern foothills of Lombok’s magnificent volcano, the village of Senaru is surrounded by the natural
Sendang Gile Waterfall, Senaru
beauty of the Rinjani National Park and has glorious views of both the mountains and the valleys below. Senaru is also the perfect base for those wishing to visit the famed waterfalls of Sendang Gile and Tiu Kelep, or to spend time trekking through the jungles and visiting remote traditional villages. Continued on Page 68
MAGNETIC NORTH LOMBOK Continued from Page 67
There is a good selection of accommodation available in the area, ranging from basic backpacker home-stays to nice cottages in scenic settings. By far the nicest place to stay is the newly-opened Rinjani Lodge, with deluxe bungalows and a stunning infinity pool perched on the side of a lovely valley and located around 100m from the main gateway to Sendang Gile Waterfall.
The restaurant serves fantastic food, with a varied menu that ranges from traditional Indonesian favourites to fresh seafood to modern cuisine such as falafel wraps in tortilla served with hummus and tahini... not your usual Senaru fare! The Rinjani National Park is a nature reserve of 41,330 hectares surrounding the
Tiu Kelep Waterfall by Iwan Haryanto
volcano that provides many opportunities for eco-tourism.
Trekking on the volcano is open from the beginning of April until the end of December every year, with a variety of treks available including the challenging climb to the 3726m summit, or 2 and 3 day treks to the spectacular lake cradled in the caldera. The whole area is a picturesque haven, featuring magnificent waterfalls, lush and accessible jungle trekking, traditional villages, and plantations of tobacco and cashew nuts, grown alongside verdant rice terraces. Tropical animals including monkeys, deer and tropical birds live in the surrounding jungle, as well as abundant varieties of tropical plants and flowers.
Stunning mountain and valley views located at the gateway to Mt Rinjani and the waterfalls Stylish bungalows with WiFi, A/C, Cable TV, DVDâ€™s, garden bathrooms, hot water and private terraces Infinity swimming pool, chill-out spaces and restaurant serving fresh western and Indonesian specialties
Perfect for mountain getaways and day trips from Senggigi and the Gilis!
SENARU - BAYAN - NORTH LOMBOK | Ph: +62 819 0738 4944 | E: firstname.lastname@example.org
The Gili Islands Unique tropical escapes!
Three perfect coral islands – Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air – fringed with white sands and swaying palm trees, lay in the sparkling ocean just off the north-west coast of Lombok. Every year the Gilis attract tens of thousands of visitors from around the world for their pristine waters, great diving and snorkelling opportunities, and laid-back charm. The word Gili actually means “small island”, and so these islands have come to be known as “The Gilis” by travellers. The Gilis are Lombok’s most popular islands and are consistently rated as top SEA island destinations by travellers and travel publications.
Although previously popular mainly with backpackers, the Gilis now attract a diverse range of visitors – serious diving enthusiasts, sun-seekers looking for the perfect beach getaway, singles, families, and couples of all ages find something to attract them to the Gilis. There is a good selection of accommodations, restaurants and bars on all three islands, with the biggest range on Gili Trawangan.
While nobody comes to the Gilis for shopping, each island has many small shops selling essentials such as sunscreen, mosquito repellent, toiletries, cold drinks, snacks and more. In addition, there are cheap clothing and t-shirts, sarongs and local handicrafts stalls. Activities include walking, riding bikes, horse riding and kayaking on Gili T, yoga, massage and beauty treatments, glass bottom boat trips and island hopping, liveaboard dive trips and cruises to nearby islands, fishing, sailing, surfing and all kinds of water-based activities. The islands provide ample opportunities for visitors to swim, relax, sunbathe, explore, snorkel or scuba dive with the many internationally accredited dive operators based in Lombok.
Snorkelling is easy in the calm waters directly off the beaches, with plenty of colourful fish to see. At greater depths and at specific dive locations around the three islands, the pristine waters are home to an abundant variety of corals, aquatic life and thousands of species of tropical fish. An impressive array of sea life can be seen, including green and hawksbill turtles, morays, barracuda, reef sharks, occasionally leopard sharks and manta rays, and much more.
Many of the popular dive companies are owned and operated by westerners and PADI and SSI licensed dive operators, with professional standards of safety and environmental awareness, exist on all three islands. Each Gili has developed independently and at different paces, giving each a different “personality” or style, and catering to different types of holidaymakers and travellers.
developed and popular of the three, with the greatest range of facilities and activities; while Gili Air has a relaxed, laid-back style and is popular with couples and families.
This means that travellers have a good choice, depending Gili Meno is the quietest of the three, on their individual tastes and perfect for really getting away from it all. what type of island escape they Choose the island that suits you most, or prefer. it’s easy to combine an island-hopping Gili Trawangan is the most holiday to sample the best of all three! Visibility is very good and commonly in the 15-30 m range; and water temperatures average 23°C (73°F) to 29°C (84°F). Currents around the islands can be quite strong and drift diving is the norm.
GETTING TO THE GILIS
FROM BANGSAL HARBOUR: Catch a taxi or bemo to Bangsal Harbour, the small harbour on the north-west coast, about 30 minutes from Senggigi.
There are now dozens of fast boat services operating between Bali and the Gilis (as well as many that stop at Teluk Nara on the northwest coast of mainland Lombok). Alternatively, you can fly to Lombok and travel across to the Gilis. Fast Boats: With Lombok’s airport now based further away in central Lombok, the fast boat services are a popular option to flying, providing fast and easy transfers between Bali and the Gilis.
The crossing between the islands can be treacherous in bad weather and sometimes transfers must be cancelled for the safety of passengers. Some companies have a good safety record and offer a high standard of customer service, including hotel pick-up and drop off services, insurance, and international safety equipment and procedures. Others can be a risky proposition – practicing overloading of baggage and exceeding the number of passengers a vessel can carry safely. The Lombok Strait – between Bali and Lombok – is one of the deepest bodies of water in the region and, during certain times of the year, waves can reach up to 5 metres. Choose a reliable operator by checking reviews on internet sites and avoid companies that practice “over loading” in busy times. Blue Water Express, operated by Blue Water Safaris, is one of the leading fast boat operators, with up to four boats travelling between Bali and Lombok.
route of other boats. The return trip leaves Gili T at 12.15pm direct to Bali. Fares include air conditioned hotel transfers to main points in Bali. Ph: +62 819 1673 3051 / +62 813 3707 4147. www.giligetaway.com GiliBookings.com is an online booking service offering easy reservations with the leading fast boat operators between Bali and Lombok. Availability checks, schedules and e-ticketing, as well as accommodation options and more, are all available online from their website: www.gilibookings.com By Plane: Fly to Lombok and either stay on the mainland before making a trip out to the Gilis or travel to Senggigi (1 hour 15 minutes) to arrange transport to the Gilis. There are many different options, as described below. Tour companies and dive operators in Senggigi also provide transfers daily. By Helicopter: Air Bali offers a regular helicopter transfer service between Bali and Gili Trawangan. Private charters are also possible (subject to availability). Ph: +62 361 767466 or 766 582. www.airbali.com HOTEL TRANSFERS: Many of the larger hotels on the islands now provide speedboat transfers for guests, as well as pick up services from the airport – enquire when you make your booking.
BWS has services between Bali, Gili T, Gili Air and mainland Lombok, with convenient departures from two different locations on Bali – Serangan (near Benoa Harbour) and Padang Bai Harbour – every day. Fares include air conditioned hotel transfers in Bali. Ph: +62 361 895 1111 / 0813 3841 8988. www.bluewater-express.com Gili Getaway is a comfortable fast boat departing from Serangan Harbour (only 20 mins from Kuta) daily with transfers between Bali, Gili T and Gili Gede (Southwest Lombok). This is the only fast boat that offers direct transfers between Bali and Gili T. Passengers are transferred from Bali to Gili T first, and then the boat transfers onward passengers to Gili Air and Teluk Kodek on Lombok, avoiding the “island hopping”
FROM TELUK NARA AND TELUK KODEK: Teluk Nara is a large peaceful bay on the west coast, about 25 minutes’ drive north of Senggigi.
Public ferries (really just large outrigger boats) depart regularly to all three islands and charters are available, with prices depending on the number of passengers and your bargaining skills. Unfortunately, the area is plagued by touts and scams, so ignore them and head directly to the ticket office on the beachfront. Public ferry and charter boat prices are posted clearly on the wall of the ticket office. Be aware that public boats leave when there are enough passengers to warrant the trip, so you may have to wait for a while. Best times are between 8am and 4pm. If you don’t want to wait, or if the public boat is dangerously overloaded, it doesn’t cost very much to charter a boat, especially if you have a few people in your group. Don’t let anyone carry your bags or, if they offer to carry baggage, negotiate a price first. Ignore people who tell you that there are no return public transfers (there are); or that there is no water, mosquito repellent, etc., on the islands. All the essentials are readily available at shops on all three islands. Bangsal is a pretty area; it’s a shame some of the touts try to ruin it for everyone. If you get stuck at the harbour in the evening, there are some basic home-stays on the road from the beach. Arnel is a nice option with pretty rooms at reasonable prices. The attached Salero Minang restaurant serves delicious Minang meals and the friendly owners can help with everything from vehicle hire to travel information and laundry services.
Most of the dive companies and many businesses on the Gilis have their boats moored in the bay and transfer guests to the islands every day from Teluk Nara.
FROM SENGGIGI: You can charter local outrigger boats from the beachfront in Senggigi (in front of the Art Markets). The trip out to the islands takes around one and a half hours.
It is possible to negotiate private boat trips (including speed boat transfers) out to the islands with local boat owners here, thereby avoiding the hassles of Bangsal.
The journey up the coast in the morning is very scenic, but you may get wet on the way back. Make sure you negotiate a price with the boatman first!
At the northern end of the bay is Teluk Kodek, where Vila Ombak, The Beach House, kokomo and Scallywags have bases for transferring their guests by speedboat to the Gilis. Blue Water Express and Gili Getaway also operate fast boat services between Lombok and Bali from this harbour.
A good alternative is to check out the many dive centres on the main street in Senggigi who offer reasonable rates for transfers, usually including pick up from your hotel. Arranging snorkelling and dive trips inclusive of island transfers is a good way to save time, money and hassles.
The Gili Islands
GILI ISLANDS FAST FACTS
There are numerous fast boat services operating between Bali and the Gilis. In good weather, fast boats can make the crossing in around 80 minutes but in heavy seas the trip can take two hours or more. Make sure you choose a reputable company who care about passenger comfort and safety, rather than “pack them in and profit”. Check weather conditions before going – the Lombok Strait is one of the deepest bodies of water in the world and seas can get very rough, with waves up to 5 metres in bad weather. Refuse to board overloaded boats. It is also possible to fly to Lombok and transfer to the Gilis from the mainland. See “Getting to Lombok” and “Getting to the Gilis” sections for details. Alcohol and the risk of methanol poisoning have been in the spotlight since 2009 and there have been a significant number of deaths from contaminated alcohol in Bali, Lombok and the Gilis. Avoid bars and places that serve arak or other “local spirits”, including cocktails such as “Jungle Juice” and “Arak Attack”. With imported alcohol heavily taxed in Indonesia, “Welcome drinks”, “Two for one” cocktails and cheap shots should all be viewed with suspicion. If it seems too cheap to be the real deal, it probably is. Large hotels and restaurants generally serve imported alcohol; otherwise, stick
to beer and steer clear of places that put profits before your safety. ELECTRICITY on all three Gilis is supplied by generators and blackouts are sometimes a problem. Many places have their own emergency generators but the smaller businesses may rely on candles and lanterns when the power goes out. WATER is a scarce resource on the islands and fresh water is shipped from the mainland daily. A business on Gili T now supplies desalinated water and fresh water showers are becoming common. However, smaller hotels and home-stays may only provide salt water showers. Use bottled water to rinse off. The tap water on all the islands is not suitable for drinking but bottled water is cheap and readily available. INTERNET is available on the Gilis at internet cafés and most larger hotels and restaurants. Connections can be intermittent and speeds are generally slow. ATM MACHINES are available on Gili Trawangan and Gili Air. Credit cards are accepted at most dive shops and larger hotels and restaurants. Money changers are available on all the islands, although the rate is lower than on Lombok. HEALTH SERVICES on the islands are limited. There is a 24-hour Clinic at Hotel Vila Ombak on Gili T, and small local clinics on Gili Meno and Air. Dive shop staff have emergency first aid training and basic medical supplies but for anything serious, get to the mainland as fast as possible. Weather is generally hotter on the islands than mainland Lombok. Make sure you drink plenty of water to stay hydrated and use sun protection, even on cloudy days.
There is no motorised transport on any of the islands. Walk, ride a bicycle or catch a cidomo (local horse cart). None of the islands is very large, so walking is an easy option. Bicycles can be hired for between Rp 25,000 and Rp 50,000 per day, depending on the type and condition of the bike. Some hotels provide bikes free of charge for guests. CIDOMO fares are fixed and rates are displayed in the front of the cart. Generally, short distances will cost around Rp 40,000; a round-the-island tour costs Rp 125,000 on Gili T. Walking or riding a bike is a nicer option. DRESS is casual on the islands and it is normal to see tourists walking around in swimsuits, sarongs and shorts. Remember that the islands’ residents are Muslim and nude or topless sunbathing is frowned upon. Please respect island sensibilities and keep your clothes on! MOSQUITOES can sometimes be a problem, especially during rainy season. DEET repellents are the best protection and local products such as “Autan” and “OFF!” are relatively cheap and readily available in the shops. THE GILI ECO TRUST (GET) is a non-profit organisation based on Gili T that works to protect and conserve the environment. GET activities include reef conservation, resource management, waste management and education programmes, to name a few. The Eco Trust raises funds for its programmes through an Eco-tax of Rp 50,000 collected from divers on the islands. Clean-up days, to collect rubbish from the beach and sea, take place on the first Friday of every month on Gili T. Register at Gili T dive shops and join in the fun! To find out more about Eco-projects and to support GET programmes, visit: www.giliecotrust.com
Luxury Villas on Gili Trawangan
Elegantly furnished villas with private pool Generous living space, dining and kitchen Centrally located to beach, restaurants and bars Last minute discounts available
www.gilivillasindonesia.com +62 (0) 81 237 55 721
Gili Trawangan – affectionately abbreviated to ‘Gili T’ – is the most wellknown and popular of the three Gilis. It is the largest island of the three and the furthest from the mainland, but easily reached in less than two hours from Bali and only 10 minutes by speedboat from Lombok. Tagged “the party island” by The Lonely Planet, Gili T continues to cater to the party crowd but also has a cosmopolitan vibe that becomes more evident every year. Today, Gili T is rated as one of the top destinations in Indonesia and the popular TripAdvisor® website recently rated it as one of the ‘Top 10 Islands in Asia’. Gone are the days when backpackers flocked to the island for Rp 20,000 a night huts on the beach and Rp 5,000 Bintang beers. While Gili T still hosts backpackers and budget travellers, these days they are joined by singles, couples and families from all walks of life and all around the world. The island itself is around 3km long and 2km wide, so walking is easy and you can
cycle around the island in around 1 1/2 hours (but will need to get off and push your bike through sandy sections in the north). This is the only Gili to rise significantly above sea level and the hill in the south is a great lookout from which to enjoy the spectacular sunsets across the ocean to Bali or the brilliant sunrise over Mt Rinjani on mainland Lombok.
simple hotels to suit the budget crowd. At the other end of the scale, boutique hotels and luxurious villas boast all the comforts of 5-star resorts, including designer furnishings, private swimming pools or Jacuzzis, WiFi internet, iPod docks, DVD and satellite TV.
On the far south end of the hill are the remnants of old WWII Japanese gun emplacements and crumbling bunkers, but the hand-dug tunnels have been blocked up. The main development on Gili T is on the east coast, but Gili T’s popularity means growth has extended around the entire island. Accommodation on Gili T ranges from basic home stays to luxury hotels and villas. The old style bungalows have mostly disappeared, to be replaced by
The busiest area, called ‘Sentral’, is on the southeast of the island, close to the jetty where the boats dock. Resorts, restaurants, bars and shops line both sides of the paved ‘road’ that runs along the entire east coast up to the northern corner of the island. Scallywags Resort and The Beach House are both popular options in this area, with comfortable rooms and all mod cons such as air conditioning and swimming pools. The Beach House has a range of rooms, suites, private pool villas and a large 4 bedroom private pool villa, while Scallywags offers tasteful double and twin rooms, some with private plunge pools. Tracks meander from the main coastal road inland, where many of the island’s local people live and where investors have built home-stays, small hotels and private villas that offer a quieter (and often cheaper) alternative to the beachfront choices. Continued on Page 78
villas with private pools and sophisticated facilities in an exclusive setting on the beach.
Continued from Page 77 Amalika Villa is a new and ultra-stylish 2 bedroom villa located in a walled garden with private pool, just back from the beach in Sentral. Modern amenities, personalised services and beautiful designer furnishings provide a luxurious escape close to the action. Gili Villas, just behind the Night Market, has four elegant villas each with private pools. 1 and 2-bedroom villas offer comfortable and modern facilities just off the main strip. The north coast has a quieter vibe and offers peaceful alternatives to the central area. Although the beaches to the north can be a bit ordinary, the views are beautiful and snorkelling from the beach is good; plus the location makes it easy to access the dining and nightlife options only minutes away. Oceano Resort offers comfortable and affordable rooms and bungalows on a nice section of beach. Desa Dunia Beda, slightly further north, features unique restored teak Joglo houses with sumptuous ethnic furnishings, modern facilities and a romantic atmosphere.
The Trawangan Resort combines south coast tranquillity with tasteful rooms, suites and private pool villas just steps from the beach, close to the surfing and only a few minutes to Sentral.
Likewise, the south and west coasts are popular with travellers seeking a place away from the crowds and are now dotted with small hotels, private villas and a couple of larger resorts. Although the beaches aren’t as nice as those on the east, the sunsets across the sea to Bali are magical. Just minutes from Sentral, Pearl of Trawangan boasts a beautiful beachfront and modern, comfortable rooms, suites and villas with lovely furnishings and all modern amenities, including a secluded waterfall swimming pool. Slightly further south, but still on the fringe of the action, ko-ko-mo Resort is a collection of 1, 2 and 3 bedroom boutique
Restaurants rival Bali in quality and there are bars, Internet cafés, movie “theatres” and beachside cafés galore. Dining choices range from the typical Indonesian dishes to Indian, Italian, Mexican and more; simple cafés on the beach to international fine dining restaurants, and everything between. There is a lively bar scene at night and the island has a rotating roster, where different bars have licenses to host a party on one night of the week (hence the “party island” reputation). These parties are a big drawcard for the crowds of younger people who come to the island. For those who prefer quieter entertainment, there are sophisticated dining opportunities, particularly at places such as ko-ko-mo Resort, Scallywags Resort, and the stylish Pearl Beach Lounge next door, and at Wilson’s Retreat and Desa Dunia Beda in the north. Continued on Page 81
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Continued from Page 78 These days, Gili T is a serious tourist destination with a good infrastructure and a wide range of tourist facilities. Many of the larger restaurants, hotels and dive shops accept credit cards and there are ATM’s in front of Gili T Resort (near Sentral), in front of Vila Ombak on the east coast and further north, near Blue Beach, as well as on the west side at Ombak Sunset.
81 Even the shopping scene on Gili T is starting to resemble nearby Bali and new shops are springing up almost monthly. Shops and kiosks selling the usual sarongs and t-shirts now rub shoulders with 69 Slam, Billabong, Innuendo and Blu Glue outlets, as well as stylish little boutiques such as Topaz Shop.
Internet cafés are readily available, as are money-changers, tour operators and a large But it is the beaches and number of fast boat services. the diving that remain the main draw card for Gili T. People flock There is a tennis club and fitness centre at here to sunbathe on white sand beaches Kelapa Villas and a medical centre at Vila Ombak with basic emergency facilities and and swim in clean blue waters, to dive the fabulous reefs and to bask in the hedonistic a doctor on call. pleasures of a tropical paradise. There is a good surf break on the south coast near The Trawangan Resort with a fast right-hander that pumps in the right conditions. Local surfers will happily lead the way and rent you a board.
Free diving, SUP and other water sports are popular activities. Horses can be hired from The Stud on the southeast coast; sea kayaking is available at Karma Kayak on the north coast; yoga, meditation, massages and other health and beauty treatments are available at numerous places around the island.
The best snorkelling on the island starts on the northern end of the east coast, where you can wade to the reef just offshore. The water is calm and there is a drift from north to south, making it easy to lie on the surface and float down the coral outcrops. Although much of the coral is damaged, there is a variety of tropical fish species to enjoy.
Further off shore, the island is famed for its vast gardens of coral and is one of the best dive spots in Lombok, which is why thousands of divers visit Gili T every year. It is also one of the safest and easiest places to learn to scuba dive, with warm water temperatures, calm seas and excellent visibility almost all year round. There is a very good selection of professional western-operated dive shops and a range of dive locations suitable for beginners through to thrill seekers. It’s been a slow evolution over the past 20 years for Gili Trawangan but now a worldclass tourism destination is emerging. While some will no doubt lament the constant development, there’s a whole new scene unfolding on Gili T. That’s not to say that the original charms that attracted travellers in the beginning are gone. The perfect white sand beaches, clear turquoise waters and laid-back island style are still what attract visitors today.
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The views from all points of the island are stunning but the east coast, facing Lombok, is probably the most fantastic – looking back at the big island with its white beaches and green mountains dominated by Indonesia’s second largest volcano, Mt Rinjani. Accommodation on Gili Air ranges from simple back-packer bungalows to luxurious air-conditioned rooms with hot water and swimming pools. Old-style hotels built from wood with thatched roofs sit alongside some of the more modern boutique hotels and villas, such as the up-market Waterfront Hotel with eight contemporary air-conditioned
Gili Air is the island closest to the mainland and can be reached in around 20 minutes by local boat or five minutes by speedboat. Being the closest of the Gilis to the mainland, Gili Air has the largest local population of the three islands; combining the charm of a tropical island with access to the people and culture that make Lombok unique.
Gili Air was originally spelled as “Ayer”, with the word “Air” meaning water; thus Gili Air is the water island. While nowhere near as busy and developed as Gili Trawangan, Gili Air has evolved rapidly over the past few years and is certainly slated for more development in the future.
some swanky new places along the beachfront. As is the case on all the Gilis, there are no cars or motorbikes allowed on the island, thus there is no pollution to spoil the clean air and the peaceful atmosphere. The island’s main appeal is its low-key and unspoilt nature… and that’s why so many people love it. Telephone and internet facilities are available on the island, as are most of the normal tourist amenities. Although there are no banks, there are ATMs on the south coast (near 7Seas) and two machines on the east, near Bel Air Resort. There are three clinics on the east of the island – one to the north (inland from Orong Cottages), Gam Clinic (inland from Biba Beach Village) and Royal Medical (to the south near 7 Seas).
For now, Gili Air is still a laid back island There are also some funky shops selling with funky bars and simple cafés bars made from bamboo rubbing shoulders with home-made jewellery, arts and wooden crafts, as well as three small boutiques with eclectic mixes of island wear, jewellery and accessories.
bungalows and a swimming pool set in nice gardens. Guests can wine and dine at the very good Waterfront Restaurant and Bar housed in a stylish wooden Joglo on the beachfront. Next door, Manta Dive offers comfortable bungalow accommodation, a swimming pool, and professional dive courses and dive trips to all three Gilis. Scallywags – who have another popular resort on Gili Trawangan – operate Scallywags Organic Beach Club on the southern end of the beach. The restaurant has an excellent menu and guest facilities, as well as a friendly atmosphere and excellent swimming directly in front of the restaurant.
Just next to Scallywags, The Beach Club Gili Air offers accommodation for Like all the Gilis, the best couples and families in eight charming swimming beaches are on the bungalows with large air conditioned east coast and most development bedrooms, private terraces and semi-open runs along the beaches here down air bathrooms. to the south. Continued on Page 84
Other activities include kite surfing, glass bottom boat trips, kayaking, stand up paddle boarding and surfing.
Continued from Page 83
There is a good surf break with a barrelling right hander known as “Play Gili” off the south coast that attracts crowds when it is pumping. It breaks over sharp coral, so check with local surfers about conditions and board hire. The calm waters and good visibility make Gili Air an ideal place to learn to dive or to upgrade diving skills. There are a number of popular dive sites that attract divers from the other Gilis, including Air Wall off the west coast, Hans Reef and Frogfish Point off the north coast. The beachfront here is a popular place for lounging on colourful bean bags during the day, or for romantic dining in the evening. The beach bar and restaurant serves delicious meals and snacks, as well as all day breakfasts. There are also free movies for restaurant guests on the beach every night (weather permitting) starting with children’s movies in the evenings, followed by adult feature movies.
Further south, near the harbour, 7Seas International is a professional dive operation, and also offers comfortable and modern air conditioned cottages on the white sand beach. It is one of the few places on the island that offers family accommodation, in
Duplex Family Cottages, only a step away from the pool. Each has two spacious rooms, a big bathroom, a large terrace and small garden, and sea views from the 2nd floor. The existing bedding is suitable for 5 people and up to 3 extra beds can be added on request. There is a good variety of restaurants and beachside cafés on the island, offering everything from traditional Indonesian dishes to up-market international fare. The beach barbecues with freshly caught fish are particularly good. The bar scene can get pretty lively in the evenings and, during high season, the island kicks into high gear with Full Moon parties on the beach. Activities include walking and cycling around the island, sun bathing, and swimming, snorkelling and diving, as well as yoga and meditation, and relaxing massages and body treatments. For exploring, there is a path running parallel to the beach and it takes around 90 minutes to circle the whole island. The interior is criss-crossed with a maze of tracks that can get confusing, but all lead back to the beach.
The water surrounding the island is a clear, translucent aquamarine, made even more pure by the sparkling white sand beneath. Gili Air still boasts living reefs off much of its coast and there is wonderful snorkelling directly from the shore, particularly from the east and northeast beaches. The coral starts within metres of the beach, making it easily accessible to anyone – even novices who have never snorkelled before. Because the island is protected by reefs, there are few waves and the ocean is usually gentle, allowing snorkellers to drift in a dreamy daze amongst this panorama of aquatic shapes and colours. For those who have never had the pleasure of viewing the magical world under the ocean, Gili Air offers a superb opportunity to do so in safety and comfort. For those of us who are already addicted to the silence and beauty of the depths, this is an island where days could melt into weeks, quite happily drifting with the current and immersing oneself in the wonders of the underwater landscape.
Gili Meno is the smallest and probably the least known of the Gili Islands. Located between Gili Air and Gili T, Meno has the lowest population of the three Gilis and the least number of visitors. Meno’s popularity has soared over the past 5 years as travellers discover this ‘quieter Gili’ with its beautiful undeveloped beaches and laid back charm – all within easy reach of the diving and activities that have made the Gilis famous. The island has not developed as quickly as Gili T or Gili Air and suffered a setback when, in the mid-90’s, The Lonely Planet wrote that the salt lake on the island created mosquito problems. This is untrue – mosquitoes are no more prevalent on Gili Meno than anywhere else in Indonesia. Many would say that the bad publicity was a blessing in disguise. Today, Meno is a haven for those seeking a unspoiled island escape.
other facilities. It is easy to make day trips to Gili T and Gili Air via public boats and private boat charter. ATM’s are located near Malia’s Bungalows (east coast), Kontiki Cottages (southeast), and Little Bali Restaurant (north coast). It is possible to walk around the whole island on a small beachside track in around 90 minutes. Those seeking total tranquillity head to the north and west coasts, where more development has been quietly taking place over the past years. The north coast boasts some beautiful quiet beaches and quality accommodation such as the luxurious Mahamaya Boutique Resort, quirky Adeng-Adeng Resort, and the elegant Seri Resort and Yoga Retreat to the northeast. On the east coast, Karma Resorts operates The Reef Resort with comfortable air conditioned bungalows in a prime beachfront location.
Although investors have been steadily buying up land for the past ten years, there is no large scale development on the island as yet. Much of the investment taking place is low-key and – perhaps recognising the pristine nature of the island – development tends to be environmentally sensitive. Like all the Gilis, the best swimming beaches and the most tourist facilities (including the boat harbour) are located along the east coast. Many of the hotels and restaurants are located along the south-eastern coast, with beautiful views over Gili Air and to Mt Rinjani in the east. The water surrounding the island is clear turquoise and the beaches are covered in brilliant white sand, fringed with coconut palms and sea pines. Facilities include simple stalls selling t-shirts, sarongs and handicrafts, as well as shops selling bottled water, snacks and drinks, and basic necessities. There are money changers and internet cafés, tour businesses, boat charter and
Nearby, Meno Mojo Beach Resort has 16 stylish villas, a restaurant and beach club and provides sun lounges, shady bales and comfortable tables overlooking the beach, with a good selection of meals and drinks; grilled and barbecued fresh seafood is the specialty.
element with grace – is perhaps the most special underwater experience of all and a major reason for visiting Gili Meno. There is also good snorkelling off the west coast near the now-defunct Bounty Resort. Swim out to where the old pontoon has sunk and become a home for many fish. Inland from the beaches, the island is quite dry with small places scattered through the coconut groves. In the middle, toward the west coast, is a salt lake from which the local people still harvest salt on a small scale. It can be quite full in rainy season but dries up in the summer. Dotted around the island, casual beachfront cafés and bars serve Indonesian and popular western meals, with fresh fish and wood-fired pizzas being Gili Meno specialties. Some provide low-key entertainment in the evenings, more so in the high seasons, but visitors to Gili Meno largely come for romantic escapes and a chance to rejuvenate on the island’s deserted beaches.
Also on the east coast, Tropical Hideaways, located a short stroll inland (down the lane next to Blue Marlin Dive), is a good mid-range option and has air conditioned rooms with western bathrooms. Apart from these, small hotels and basic bungalows provide accommodation for those seeking a peaceful place in the sun with un-crowded beaches, clean waters and peaceful nights under the star-filled skies. There is no rowdy bar scene or noisy full moon parties here. There is good snorkelling along the northwest coast and it is often possible to see Green, Leatherback and Hawksbill turtles. To swim with these huge creatures – that are so awkward and ungainly on land but move through their natural
Eka Jaya Fast Boat is the only company that provides transfers direct from Bali to and from Gili Meno. From Lombok, public boats operate between Gili Meno and Bangsal Harbour several times daily. Charter boats are available to and from Bangsal Harbour and Teluk Nara – share the cost with others if possible.