Issue 144 | 24 June – 8 July 2013
LOMBOK GUIDE ( 0370 6594005 | www.thelombokguide.com
PUBLISHED BI-WEEKLY IN LOMBOK, FOR LOMBOK
TRAWANGAN DIVE FINATHON TRIATHLON
PERESEAN KAPOLDA CUP 2013
GET READY FOR NGAYU-AYU... THE SENGGIGI PRESERVING FESTIVAL THE PAST
Getting to Lombok
Attractions & Actitvities
Special Feature Page 10 Senggigi
What’s Hot / Local News
In Good Taste
Useful Contacts Page 36 Local Scene
Land & Property
Special Feature Page 53-55 The Cities
Kuta & The South Coast
South Coast Map
Gilis Fast Facts Page 78 Getting to the Gilis
JETSTAR PERTH - LOMBOK!
Exciting news as we go to print with this issue – Jetstar Airlines has just announced the first international service between Perth (West Australia) and Lombok. Jetstar plan to start the first ever non-stop flights between Perth and Lombok as early as 24 September 2013, subject to government and regulatory approval. The airline will operate four flights per week on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays. Flight time is around 3 and 1/2 hours.
Special introductory fares starting from a low AUD 119 per person, one way, are available now from their website. West Aussies… if you thought Bali was good, you are going to LOVE Lombok!
To find out more, pick up a copy of The Lombok Guide from the locations listed on page 74 or visit www.thelombokguide.com and discover the magic of Lombok for yourself…
like thousands of others, you’ll be enchanted! ...Life is Good!
+62 (0) 370 614 2352 | firstname.lastname@example.org | www.beachhousegilit.com
Photo by Nanang Wirawan
IN THIS ISSUE
The Beach Club
GETTING TO LOMBOK
It’s easy to get to Lombok from Bali – flight time is only 25 minutes Direct flights from Jakarta to Lombok are available every day and and fares start from around Rp 300,000 (approx. US $33) one way. are usually timed to connect with European flights. Buy tickets direct from the airline counters at the domestic airports, Lombok is easily accessible from Jakarta, Bali, Jogjakarta, or contact local travel agents, in both Bali and Lombok. Surabaya and Makassar and is an important connection for travel to the eastern islands, in particular the islands of Sumbawa, Lombok International Airport (or Bandara Internasional Lombok, Komodo and Flores. commonly abbreviated to BIL, and using the IATA code “LOP”) is the only airport on Lombok. Garuda Indonesia has direct flights between Lombok, Bali, Surabaya, Makassar and Jakarta every day, Call Centre: 0804 1 The airport is close to Praya (Central Lombok); approximately 807 807, Sales Office : +62 370 642303 / 649999. Airport: 0370 40km south of the city of Mataram, and around 1 ½ hours’ drive 649100 www.garuda-indonesia.com from Senggigi, and 25 minutes from Kuta. Airport departure tax is Rp 25,000 for domestic departures and Rp 100,000 for international departures. BALI TO LOMBOK BY AIR In Lombok, all flights depart and arrive at Lombok International Airport. In Bali, flights arrive and depart at Ngurah Rai (Denpasar) Domestic Airport. Garuda Airlines has direct flights between Lombok, Bali and Jakarta every day. Call Centre: 0 804 1 807 807, Sales Office: +62 370-642303, 649999. www.garuda-indonesia.com
Lion Air has daily flights between Lombok, Bali, Jakarta and Surabaya. Ph: +62 370 6627444 / 642180. www.lionair.co.id Merpati Airlines has flights available between Lombok, Bali, Bima, Dili, Bandung, Flores and Kupang. Lombok, ph: +62 370 621111. www.merpati.co.id Trans Nusa Air flies between Lombok, Sumbawa and Bima daily. Lombok, ph: +62 370 624555. www.transnusa.co.id Batavia Air has flights from Lombok to Surabaya and Jakarta (via Surabaya) every day. Lombok, Ph: +62 370 648998. www.bataviaair.co.id
Merpati Airlines flies direct between Bali and Lombok four times a Wings Air (Lion Air) has daily flights from Lombok to Bali and day. Lombok, ph: +62 370 621111, Airport: +62 370 633637 / +62 Surabaya, Ph: +62 370 6627444 / 642180. Bookings via Lion Air. 87864253577. Bali, ph: +62 361 420999. www.merpati.co.id www.lionair.co.id Lion Air flies between Bali and Lombok with three flights daily. BALI TO LOMBOK BY SEA The company share-codes with Wings Air, so you may purchase a Lion Air ticket and find yourself on a Wings Air flight! Lombok, Call Padang Bai Harbour (Bali) provides the sea link between mainland Centre: +62 80 4177 8899. Bali, ph: +62 361 765132. www.lionair. Bali and Lombok. Lembar Harbour (Lombok) is on the southwest co.id coast, approx. 1 hour south of Senggigi, Lombok. Trans Nusa Air operates flights between Bali and Lombok daily. Arrange your own transport and buy tickets direct from the Lombok, ph: +62 370 624555. Bali, ph: +62 361 8477395. harbours, or use a reputable tour company to provide a transfer www.transnusa.co.id service. INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Public Ferries depart every hour for the sea voyage between Padang Bai Harbour (Bali) and Lembar Harbour (Lombok). The Lombok International Airport (IATA: LOP) has full Visa on Arrival (VOA) facilities, with fast and efficient visa processing. Ph: +62 370 crossing between the islands costs Rp 36,000 per person and takes approx. 4 to 5 hours. Lembar Harbour ph: +62 370 681 209. 622987. Padang Bai Harbour ph: (+62 363) 41849 / 41840 Silk Air (a subsidiary of Singapore Airlines) flies direct between FAST BOATS Lombok and Singapore, three times per week. Lombok, ph: +62 370 628254 / 628255. www.silkair.com There are now numerous “fast boat” services operating between Bali and Lombok. Air Asia operates direct flights between Lombok and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia four times per week (Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday). www.airasia.com
Garuda Airlines flies between Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia and Lombok every day, with a short stop-over in Jakarta. All other international connections are available via Jakarta. Call Centre: 080 418 07807. Airport: +62 370 649100. www.garuda-indonesia.com DOMESTIC FLIGHTS European connections are easy via Jakarta (the capital city of Java), Bali and other capital cities such as Jogjakarta, Surabaya and Makassar.
Marina Srikandi operates a direct fast boat service every day between Padang Bai Harbour (Bali) and Senggigi (Lombok), arriving and departing from the jetty on Senggigi Beach.
This is the only direct service between Bali and Lombok (mainland). Lombok Ph: +62 370 693 383, Bali Ph: +62 361 729 818. www.marinasrikandi.com Most other fast boats serve Gili Trawangan, but several also call at Teluk Kodek on mainland Lombok, making fast boats from Lombok to Bali (and vice versa) an option to flying. See the “Getting to the Gilis” section for details.
HOT TASTE, COOL VENUE
The Perfect Place to Wine & Dine in Lombok Senggigi Square Blok B-10, Jl. Raya Senggigi, Lombok, Indonesia Ph: +62 370 6644 888, 693 688 | Fax: +62 370 623 975 email@example.com | www.squarelombok.com
ATTRACTIONS & ACTIVITIES Getting around Lombok is easy by car or motorbike and you can hire these in all the main tourism areas, with an International Drivers License. The roads are generally in good condition and traffic is light. Alternatively, hire a car and driver for exploring or take part in the tours and day trips offered by the many tour agencies on the island.
Climbing Mt Rinjani by Iwan Haryanto
Mawun Beach by Barbara
all three islands are well served by professional dive operators who offer full PADI certification courses, day and night dives to the many sites around the Gilis, as well as specialised courses and live-aboard adventures to exotic locations. For the more adventurous, there is superb diving around the islands off the southwest coast, as well as near Kuta on the south coast and the small uninhabited islands off the east coast.
The whole island is surrounded by fantastic beaches, most of which are covered in clean white sand and fringed by coconut palms. Drive just north of Senggigi to Malimbu or Nipah and enjoy deserted beaches with fine snorkelling and swimming. The southwest coast also has fine beaches, especially around Sekotong and Taun.
Lombok is becoming a world-renown surfing destination amongst surf enthusiasts world-wide. Huge waves and challenging surf lure die-hards to BangkoBangko (also known as Desert Point) on the south-western tip of Lombok.
Visit the small island of Gili Nanggu for rustic accommodation and great snorkelling just off shore or stay at Secret Island Resort on Gili Gede to explore the twelve other undeveloped islands in the southwest. The beaches around Kuta are breathtakingly beautiful. Visit Gerupuk for fantastic scenery, Kuta for long stretches of white sand and turquoise waters, or swim in the peaceful lagoon at Mawun.
Here you can hire a board, get board repairs and take surf lessons from the professionals.
DIVING With so many beaches and small islands, Lombok offers a myriad of diving and snorkelling opportunities. The best known locations are around the Gili islands - Gili Air, Gili Meno and Gili Trawangan. Snorkelling is easy from the shore and
Kuta, on the south coast, is surf-central and has a range of accommodations and services catering specially to surfers.
The waves at Gerupuk and Kuta offer a variety of challenges from beginners to sheer madness! Ekas Bay has two surf breaks: Inside Ekas and Outside Ekas, which are suitable for beginners to experts, depending on different peaks and tides.
TREKKING Much of the island is still covered by natural rain forest and jungles, making Lombok ideal for ecotourism and adventure tours. There are a number of spectacular waterfalls on the island which provide lovely trekking opportunities, whether travelling independently or as part of a tour. Sendang Gile on the slope of Mt Rinjani in the north is an easily accessible waterfall in a stunning jungle setting and popular with visitors. Air Jeruk Manis, near Tetebatu is reached by walking through pretty rice fields and forests. The awesome Benang Stokel and Benang Kelambu waterfalls, in central Lombok, are located within a short trek of each other and make a perfect day trip for those who appreciate truly magical natural surroundings.
k o - k o - mo G I L I T R AWA N G A N R E S O R T
Get there fast, then take it slow...
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Cocktail & Tapas Lounge
Celebrating Cultural Performances Every Tuesday Night, Beach BBQ Thursday, Pasar Malam Friday, Elegant Candlelight Beach Dinner Saturday
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Jl. Raya Mangsit, Senggigi, Lombok | Phone: +62 370 693800, Fax: +62 370 693802 Email: email@example.com | Website: www.quncivillas.com
ATTRACTIONS & ACTIVITIES Aik Kalaq (Hot Spring Water) near Segara Anak Lake at Mt Rinjani by Koes Nadi
animist statues remain today. Perang Topat, is an annual festival held at Lingsar and features a ritualised war with rice cakes, which also serve as an offering to the Gods.
MOUNTAIN CLIMBING Mt Rinjani, Lombok’s famous volcano, soars 3726 m above sea level and is the second highest volcano in Indonesia, attracting thousands of trekkers and climbers annually. The huge crater near the top contains a beautiful lake, Danau Segara Anak (Child of the Sea Lake) and a smaller volcanic cone, Gunung Baru Jari, which was formed a couple of hundred years ago. There are a number of caves, small waterfalls and hot springs located around the volcano. In 2004 Rinjani won the World Legacy Award and the volcano is recognised internationally as an important eco-tourism destination. Two, three and four day treks on the volcano are offered by tour companies and trek organisers in all the main resort areas of Lombok.
HISTORIC SITES & TEMPLES There are a number of interesting temples around the west coast, many of which are Hindu or ancient animist sites of worship. Pura Lingsar is possibly the only place in the world where Hindus and Moslems come together to pray and celebrate. Built around 1714, Pura Lingsar was originally based on the prevailing animist beliefs of the time, and some of the original
Pura Narmada (or Narmada Temple), around 10 km east of Cakranegara in Narmada, was created circa 1805 as a replica of Gunung Rinjani and Segara Anak, the lake within Rinjani’s crater. The gardens at Narmada are beautifully maintained and surround the pools and lake. Pura Suranadi, a complex of three temples located a few kilometres north of Narmada in Suranadi, is the oldest and holiest of the Balinese temples in Lombok, founded by the 16th-century Javanese priest, Danghyang Nirartha. Underground streams bubble up into restored baths, used for ritual bathing. Huge sacred eels live in the pools and streams here, and can sometimes be lured out with an offering of boiled eggs (purchased at a nearby stall). To see a sacred eel is considered very lucky!
HANDICRAFT VILLAGES Lombok is famous for its traditional earthenware pottery made from local clay with distinctive “Lombok primitive” designs. You can also purchase hand-woven sarongs and fabrics (ikat). Pringgasela in central Lombok is a small village which is steeped in tradition and is a
major centre for weaving ikat. Visit the small houses and shops here to purchase traditionally woven, colourful fabrics. Masbagik, close to Pringgasela, is a small pottery village. Wander the streets and see the pottery being made in the small yards behind the simple homes here and purchase the wares for amazingly cheap prices. Sukarara is 5 km to the west of Praya, heading south towards Kuta. This is a weaving village where quality ikat and traditional cloth is displayed and sold. Weavers work outside many of the shops, using antiquated “back strap looms” to painstakingly produce works of art. Some of the larger pieces can take several months to weave, and collectors from around the world visit this village to purchase the blankets, sarongs and cloth produced here. Banyumulek, easily reached on the road south to Lembar Harbour, is an important centre for pottery on Lombok. The small village is packed with shops selling pottery produced in the area, as well as from the other main pottery-making villages such as Penujak and Masbagik. Lombok pottery, with its distinctive terracotta styles, has become famous internationally and is exported throughout the world. Pura Suranadi (Suranadi Temple) by Barbara
FINATHON TRIATHLON FOR WORLD OCEANS DAY
Later in the evening, the crowd was entertained by live music by Ray d’Sky, Jah on Holiday, and S2B – who all generously donated their time to support the event. Raffle tickets were sold to raise funds, with great prizes donated by some of Gili T’s top businesses, and there was a fire show and cocktail flaring display. The main fundraiser was an auction of fabulous prizes including high value items such as a Komodo Livaboard trip provided by Blue Marlin, a Biorock conservation course provided by The Biorock Team, a full PADI Instructor Development Course (IDC) provided by Trawangan Dive, and a PADI staff Instructor Course also donated by the Trawangan Dive Go Pro Team.
To celebrate “World Oceans Day” on 8 June 2013, Trawangan Dive on Gili Trawangan hosted an amazing Finathon / Triathlon in conjunction with Project Aware and the Gili Eco Trust. The Trawangan Dive and Gili Eco Trust ‘Finathon & Triathlon’ was a full day event that involved local people, dive shops and businesses on the island. To kick off the fun, around 65 local children jumped into the pool for some swimming lessons and then tried out snorkelling equipment, supplied by Divemasters and Aqualung.
They then headed to Trawangan Dive for face painting, hand printing, games and lunch before the main Finathon and Triathlon event in the afternoon. 16 teams and 7 individuals from dive shops and Gili T businesses competed in the Triathlon with an 800 metre ocean swim, 7.9km bike ride and 5.6km run around the island. Hundreds of people gathered to cheer them on and place bets on the winning teams. With windy weather and choppy seas, the 800m swim was a gruelling start to the event.
Cycling and then running around the small island was also an exhausting challenge, particularly with the roads crowded with tourists, horse carts and other obstacles. It was a mighty effort from all competitors!
More than $7,500 was raised by the event with funds benefiting Project Aware and Gili Eco Trust.
The winners were the team from Big Bubble Dive (Becs, Max and Anders) with a time of 53:48. Second placed were Manta Dive II team (Silvia, Rich and Laura) who finished in 55:45. Third was the DSM/Scuba Dive team (Jordi, Diego and Peluca), with a final time of 57:16.
Project AWARE is a non-profit organisation that works to support sustainable tourism and protect the ocean environment. Their “Finathon” initiatives involve divers from around the world who are competing in swims, ocean relays, fun runs, triathlons and wacky races to raise funds to end shark finning and protect endangered shark species.
Fastest net time (after discounting a 10 minute handicap) was the Manta Dive team (Shannon, Andy and Freddie) with a net time of 48:43.
For more information, visit the Project AWARE website at: www.projectaware. org and the Gili Eco Trust at: www.giliecotrust.com
West Coast Resort
Just over one hour from Lombok International Airport, Senggigi is the main tourism centre on Lombok and, apart from the Gili islands, the most developed tourism area on Lombok. The town of Senggigi is about 10 km north of Ampenan, and about 30 minutes drive from Teluk Nara and Bangsal – the harbours to the Gili Islands. Nowhere near as large or as busy as its Bali counterparts, Senggigi is a great base for exploring the rest of the island. The pace is laid-back, with activities centred on the beaches and day trips to places of interest, which are all within a few hours drive from the town. At night, Jalan Raya Senggigi (the main street) comes alive. Dine in the many restaurants catering to all tastes and budgets, listen to live music at the bars, or dance the night away at the nightclubs. Senggigi Beach is the large bay that forms the centre of Senggigi, with the main road running parallel to the beach, and large resorts occupying the space between. The Senggigi Beach Hotel, Santosa Villas and Resort, and the Sheraton Senggigi Resort all line the curved bay of Senggigi Beach and offer a full range of resort facilities, equally attractive for singles, couples and families. The beachfront is currently undergoing “revitalisation” by the West Lombok Tourism Department, which threatens to ruin the natural beauty of the beach. It can become very crowded and is best avoided on Sundays and public holidays. However, many more beautiful beaches exist just minutes away to the north. One of the most spectacular sights on the island is the sunset viewed from Senggigi Beach, with the bright orange sun sinking into the sea to the west and Bali’s Gunung Agung volcano silhouetted on the horizon like a giant pyramid floating in the ocean. Senggigi Reef, off the southern point, has good coral for snorkelling and, in the right conditions, some decent surf breaks. Canoes can be hired from the beach on the weekends
and during peak tourism times. Local outrigger boats (prahu) can be chartered from the beachfront for trips along the coast or out to the Gili Islands. The main road in Senggigi is lined with small attractive hotels catering to all budgets, shops, tour agencies, restaurants, bars and nightclubs; many of which have live music in the evenings. There are a couple of supermarkets, numerous ATM’s and moneychangers, a post office and all the normal tourist facilities. Senggigi is a relaxing and attractive place to stay, with a good range of luxury hotels and resorts, as well as mid-range and budget accommodations. Tourism development runs north along the coastal road for about 10 km, with many hotels and restaurants positioned along the beautiful beaches that line the entire west coast. About 2 km north of central Senggigi Kerandangan Valley has a popular beach nearby and some small boutique hotels, such as Puri Mas Spa Resort and Villa Campi Sorga, situated in a pretty valley. Dream Estate Park comprises private villa accommodation for owners and investors, and has villas available for short and long term rental in a secure, well-managed estate. At the end of the road through Kerandangan Valley is the Taman Wisata Alam – Kerandangan Nature Reserve – with clearly marked hiking paths leading through the rain forest along the river. There is a small Ranger’s hut and visitors centre near the entrance, and picnic areas with basic concrete tables along the paths. The park boasts a small waterfall, pretty
river scenery, families of local monkeys, and a variety of tropical plants and birdlife. Further north, Mangsit has developed as an accommodation alternative to Senggigi, with boutique style hotels positioned along the breathtaking beaches of this section of coast. The popular Qunci Villas, Puri Mas Beach Resort, Windy Beach Resort and Holiday Resort Lombok are located in Mangsit. Furthest north are Klui and Lendang Luar, with two hotels – Jeeva Klui and Hotel Bulan Baru – and long stretches of pristine beaches. Mainly deserted white sand beaches, flanked by coconut groves and untouched by hotel development, continue all the way north along the main coastal road. Malimbu and Nipah are two picturesque bays less than half an hour from Senggigi, which are good for snorkelling, swimming and getting away from it all. Teluk Nara and Teluk Kodek are on a large bay that forms a natural harbour, about 25 kms north of Senggigi. All the main dive operators have boats here, which transfer guests to the Gili islands, as an alternative to nearby Bangsal Harbour. Bangsal Harbour, less than 5km further north, is reached by turning left at the crossroads in Pemenang and from there it is easy to catch the public ferries (actually large outrigger boats) out to the Gilis, or to charter boats for island hopping. Whether you are seeking luxury accommodation at a top resort with fine dining and spa facilities, or a budget holiday with days spent exploring – or all the choices in between – Senggigi caters for all tastes and budgets. From Senggigi, it’s easy to explore the attractions of the stunning south coast or to hop on a boat to the famous Gili islands lying just offshore. Swim, snorkel, dive, hike, lie in the sun, have a massage, eat and drink at some of the great restaurants and bars in town; or just take a break and be enchanted by the peace and beauty of Lombok.
The Beach Club Beach Bungalows, Bar & Café
TWO PERFECT BEACH LOCATIONS IN LOMBOK!
er, dvd, front bungalows with AC, hot wat Senggigi - Comfortable beach Senggigi! mming pool. 5 minutes walk from satellite TV, private balcony and swi
Gili Air - Comfortable Bungalows with AC, Fres h Hot Water Showers, Balcony and Day Bed with views of Gili’s fantastic white sandy beaches – perfect for snorkelling – just steps from your room!
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[ Yo u r K e y to an I d yllic Lombok ]
Lombok’s Boutique Hotel [ The Lonely Planet 2013: “Best Place to Stay in Lombok” ] [ Cosmopolitan: “Lombok’s Hidden Beauty” ] [ Guide du Routard: “Le Reve!” ] Jl. Raya Mangsit, Senggigi, Lombok | Phone: +62 370 693 800, Fax: +62 370 693 802 Email: email@example.com | Website: www.quncivillas.com
Puri Bunga Beach Cottages
Luxury and Tranquility Privately positioned on terraced slopes of beautiful flowers, overlooking Senggigi Bay and the Lombok Strait to Bali Standard, Deluxe and Suite Cottages with air conditioning, hot water, television, mini bar, telephone and internet access
Sea view cottages
From US$40* / room! (Incl breakfast)
* tax and service charge and high season surcharges may apply
Enquire about our special offers!
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What’s Hot / Local News
18 The Berugaq Coffee House and Gallery, in the Griya Ellen Complex on the road from Kebun Roek Markets to the old Selaparang Airport, is a great little place to stop in for a coffee and a snack on the way to and from Ampenan and the city. The Berugaq is now open on Sundays and most public holidays, as well as the rest of the week. It’s one of the few places that make authentic “western style” cakes and desserts, as well as serving a fantastic range of brewed coffees, teas, iced beverages and Italian sodas. Pop in and try the new tasty Chicken Quesadilla Jaffle! They also have a hotline, if you’d like to keep up to date with what’s happening at The Berugaq: 0819 0721 0888. As bookings start pouring in for the high season, accommodation on Gili T is filling up fast. Gili Air is becoming an increasingly popular option – especially for families. The clear water and calm beaches offer safe swimming and snorkelling and, over the past couple of years, the choice of accommodation on the island has improved greatly. 7SEAS International joins the growing list of quality accommodation on Gili Air. In addition to its professional dive operation, 7Seas offers comfortable and modern air conditioned cottages right on
outlet for shoppers who don’t have time to go into their main showroom in Mataram and has a selection of their beautiful and unique pearl jewellery to whet your appetite for more! www. nurhikmahpearls.com Polda (the regional police) are organising a special Peresean tournament this month.
the white sand beach, near the harbour. The Duplex Family Cottages offer complete privacy and are only a step away from the pool. Each has two spacious rooms, a big bathroom, a large terrace and small garden, and sea views from the 2nd floor. The existing bedding is suitable for 5 people and up to 3 extra beds can be added on request. Kids can try diving at the Kids Dive Club in the pool or in shallow open water with equipment made for children and under the supervision of professional diving instructors. It is easy, safe and fun… share an unforgettable holiday experience with your kids! For more information, check their website at: http://www.7seas-cottages.com We notice that Nur Hikmah Pearls have just opened a counter at the entrance to Senggigi Plaza, alongside the ATM machines (actually in one of the ATM booths!) This is a small retail
Peresean Kapolda NTB Cup 2013 is an annual event with the strongest and the boldest from around the island competing in Lombok’s traditional form of “Sasak martial arts”. Peresean, or stick fighting, is a popular traditional sport, unique to Lombok. Two muscled competitors pit their strength and wits against each other, using heavy sticks (penjalin) to strike at each other’s bodies and shields (ende) made from toughened cow hide to prevent the other from striking a blow. The sport is highly dangerous, but also extremely entertaining, with competitors strutting in front of each other, attempting to psychologically intimidate their opponents and refusing to show pain. This year’s tournament will take place in the grounds of the old Yellow Monkey Fun Park on the main road (Jalan Raya) in Montong from 22 – 27 June, starting at 2pm every afternoon until finish. Come along and witness some real Lombok action!
GET READY FOR THE SENGGIGI FESTIVAL! The Senggigi Festival is Lombok’s most colourful and spectacular event of the year. Commencing with a grand opening parade through the centre of Senggigi, the event is a brilliant kaleidoscope of colour, music, traditional costumes and cultural performances that showcase the best of Lombok’s culture and arts.
competitions, bartender juggling, a fashion show, a colouring competition for kids, a boat decorating competition, and more. Market stalls will also be set up in the Square selling local arts and traditional handicrafts from around the island. These make great souvenirs and gifts to take home!
The annual Senggigi Festival is scheduled to take place from Monday, 1 July to Thursday, 4 July, 2013. The announcement was made via a large poster erected in front of the Santosa Resort in Senggigi. Unfortunately, the entire text is in Indonesian as the West Lombok Tourism Department (Dinas Pariwisata Lombok Barat) considers unflattering photos of the Bupati to be more important than speaking English for our tourists! Events will be held in Senggigi Square (alongside Square Restaurant) and on the beachfront in Senggigi, as well as at the Pasar Seni (the Art Markets on the main street south of the Sheraton). The official Opening Ceremony will start on Monday, 1 July from 2pm with
Free cultural performances from different regions around Lombok will be held in Senggigi Square every evening from 8 until 11pm, featuring traditional music, dance and drama. Peresean is a popular traditional stickfighting competition, where competitors fight with rattan sticks and ward off blows The street parade is the highlight of the with a shield made from toughened hide Festival each year. Groups from all around (see above). Lombok will join the parade dressed in Competitions will be held daily from costumes from their different regions and 2 - 4July in the Pasar Seni (Art Markets). villages, performing street theatre, dances These usually take place in the afternoon, and playing traditional instruments. but check at the Art Markets for actual Visitors will be entertained during the times. four days of the Festival with free events All performances during the festival are in Senggigi Square and on Senggigi free and tourists are encouraged to attend. Beach each day. These include stage Bring your camera! shows, creative and modern dance, hotel traditional dancing and huge street parade along the main street of Senggigi.
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NEW MENU NEW LOW PRICES!
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Every Sunday: Roasted Chicken Rp 35,000++ Art Market Senggigi, Lombok +62 370 693694
P uri Mas Gallery The Essence of Tradition, Luxury & Style AT PURI MAS BOUTIQUE RESORT
Just 5 minutes north of Senggigi Free pick up and drop off service in Senggigi area Fine Arts and Collectibles From Around the Archipelago
Chakra Healing Crystals Now in Store
Jl. Raya Mangsit Beach, Senggigi, Lombok NTB Indonesia | Tel: 0370 693831 | Fax: 0370 693023 email@example.com | www.purimas-lombok.com | Skype: purimasreservations
Swiss Bakery & Cafeteria • High Quality home roasted Arabica, Robusta and Luwak coffee beans • Coffee Machine Rental and Maintenance • Oven fresh, made to order bread, pastry & cookies • Bread Supplier for Hotels & Restaurants • Aircon * Library * Notebooks • Best Cappucino - No Foam = Money Back!
Oven fresh Baguettes every morning at 9:30am!
TRY THE WORLD’S MOST EXCLUSIVE COFFEE!
STAFF WANTED Visit us at Senggigi Square Blok A/04. Ph: 0370 692085 / 0818365790 | Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
23 OPEN 9am to 10pm 7 Days a Week
Try our home-cooked foods without MSG: fresh garden salad, chicken sandwiches and chicken burgers, spaghetti bolognese, spring rolls, fresh salsa, Indonesian soto and nasi goreng, or our delicious burgers with the meat patty made from fillet steak and based on a Slavic “cevapcici” recipe
While you’re eating delicious food in the Warung, drop into the Deli which sells a range of handy products such as Imported goods, pastas, herbs, cooking oils, lentils, nuts, butter, cheeses, jams and sauces, Lindt chocolates, juices, and fresh vegetables
All from Rp 15,000 to Rp 30,000!
Fresh Salads d r Ga en
Jl Raya Senggigi (Between Rambo Petshop & Papa Besar Cafe) | Phone: 0370 693177
Complete pet supplies in Senggigi! We carry a large selection of quality Dog and Cat Foods Pet Accessories (Collars, leads, cages, bowls, toys, etc) Pet Care Products (Vitamins, shampoos, flea and tick powders, coat conditioners and pet medicines) Hamster and fish foods and more!
Open 7 days a week
Jl Raya Senggigi (next to Deli Senggigi)
Phone: 0370 693177
Cover Yourself in
Jl. Saleh Sungkar, Gg. Sawah, Ampenan, Lombok Ph: +62 370 636150 - Fax: +62 370 637635
THE RED PEPPER INN Clean and comfortable. Located in the middle of the”kampung”near the local Kebon Roek traditional market you immediately have a sense of the real Indonesian life. Ampenan is near Mataram and Cakra and only 7 kilometers away from Senggigi.
Room rates (smoking & non smoking) Standard room with fan – Rp 100 000 Standard room with TV & AC – Rp 130 000
OOK NEDERLANDS SPREKEND AMPENAN BEACH JALAN SALEH SUNGKAR KEBON ROEK MARKET
LOSMEN TJABE MERAH
CV. ANANTA GUNA LESTARI OUR SERVICES: Pest Control | Rodent Control Termite Control | Fumigation Employee Recruitment (Out Sourcing) Cleaning Service (On Call) Gardener | Pool Maintenance
Ciokolata New Boutique Collections Jl. Raya Senggigi (next to Senggigi Jaya Supermarket) email@example.com
Tours and Travel Service Available! Jl. Alpa Raya Blok IV No. 4 BTN Sandik - Lombok Mobile: 0812 3693 5382 / 0818 0363 6609 Phone (0370) 6657069 / Fax: (0370) 621627 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
FOR SALE Gili Air east coast
2 mins walk from beach! House and Bungalow on 31 are (3,100 sqm) land Two-storey Lumbung House: 126 m2 / two bed rooms / two bathrooms / kitchen / fully furnished All wooden Bungalow: 30 m2 / bathroom / fully furnished
TUKANG PIJAT (LAKI-LAKI) Berpengalaman dan Profesional Traditional Massage & Reflexologi Memiliki kendaraan pribadi Sanggup datang ke rumah pribadi minimal 2 kali seminggu
Great for investment / lifestyle / home and business! Please contact: 0819 1599 3782 / 0818 0375 8695 Email: email@example.com
Bagi anda yang berminat silahkan hubungi
0812 3734 4894
SINTA PEST C NTR L Melayani Pengendalian: Nyamuk DB / Malaria / Cikungunya Lalat, Kecoa, Semut Hama Tikus | Rayap Hama Gudang Controlling: Dengue, Malaria & Cikungunya Mosquito Fly, Cockroach, Ants Rats | Termites Spiders and Other Pests & Bugs PT SINTA AGRO MANDIRI (Ijin Dikes No: 03/52.71/PC/VII/11) Jl. TGH Hambali No 8, Mataram, Lombok | Phone: 0370 631176 / 627991
Windy Beach Resort “Next to Nature”
Mangsit, Senggigi, Lombok | Phone: 0370 693191 | Fax: 0370 693193 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org | Web: www.windybeach.com
Tongue-in-cheek answers to your personal and building problems in my hair and all over my clothes! I looked like a fairground! My boyfriend was inconsolable and started ranting and raving over my choice of pink and how it clashed with orange and black. It took 3 days to clean the car and I had to throw away my clothes. What do you think QUESTION: My boyfriend and I have rented a small house in the popular tourist I should do? I’m so upset, Justin. MR FIXER: White is the best colour for area of Green Valley in Senggigi and we the tropical climate, both inside and out. have decided to spruce the place up by It reflects the heat and looks smart and repainting. clean. Don’t worry… your boyfriend was My boyfriend wanted to paint the outside just overcome with emulsion! orange and black but I wanted to paint QUESTION: I am a single 74 year-old the whole thing pink. We argued for days male and have recently arrived on the over the colour scheme and eventually decided to compromise by painting orange sunny holiday island of Lombok, where I have met a younger single Indonesian and black on the outside and pink on the lady. inside. It has been so long since I last had sex, I Once we had decided, we couldn’t wait am beginning to forget who ties up whom. to rush off to the paint shop to buy some You don’t appreciate a lot of stuff in school big tubs of paint and brushes and get until you get older; little things like being started. My boyfriend is quite emotional and another argument ensued about how spanked every day by a middle-aged woman. Stuff you pay good money for in to transport the paint. later life! I said we should put the paint in the boot My new girlfriend is rather shy. She prefers of the car but my boyfriend insisted it to get undressed in the dark. At my age, would be okay on the back seat. On the way back, a speeding motorbike pulled out arousal can be a problem and I just like to in front of us and I had to brake suddenly. watch. Can you recommend any devices that might help? All at once, the tubs of paint came MR FIXER: According to a new survey, flying through the air and hit me and my women say they feel more comfortable boyfriend on the back of our heads and burst the lids off. Paint was everywhere… undressing in front of men than they do
undressing in front of other women. They say that women are too judgmental when, of course, men are just grateful. There are a number of mechanical devices which increase sexual arousal, particularly in women. Chief among these is the Mercedes-Benz 380SL. QUESTION: The first thing I want to do when I get to sunny Lombok is have a tattoo! All my mates back in Oz have one, so I don’t want to be left out. I want one of those tribal art looking things right up my leg so I look like a hardened warrior surfer boy. The girls will love it! Even the sheilas have ‘em these days on their bums and everything. Do you have any suggestions on what I should have? MR FIXER: A Scottish friend of mine had EDINBOROUGH tattooed on his arm once. He said it was the Edinborough tattoo. How we laughed! A real job-stopper is MUM and DAD on either side of your face with CUT HERE ………….. across your neck. Hilarious! Do you realize that in about 40 years, we’ll have thousands of old people running around with stupid tattoos? Never take life too seriously… nobody gets out alive, anyway.
To see previous Mr Fixers click on www.lombollocks.com
Contemporary Furniture Outdoor and Indoor Furniture Highest Quality Synthetic Ratan Jl. Raya Senggigi Duduk Garden No.6 Batu Bolong 83355 Lombok Phone/Fax: 0370 6194 123, HP: 0813 3955 5456| www.gandari.com
w w w. l o t u s - r e s t a u r a n t s . c o m Specialising in delicious and authentic meals... real Italian food from our real Italian chef!
FREE Transport and delivery service in Senggigi area
On the beachfront, Senggigi Art Market Ph: +62 (0) 370 693 758 | Fax: +62 (0) 370 693 375
In Good Taste...
In Good Taste
Welcome to Lombok! As an expat working here in Lombok, I want to share with all our valuable visitors a few of the recipes that you will try around our lovely island, so hopefully you can take more than just a great memory home and show your friends that – apart from beautiful scenery, sexy beaches, amazing weather and friendly people – we have some exquisite food available in our restaurants here and Lombok people do take their food seriously!
Good day everyone and welcome to the beautiful islands of Lombok and the Gilis! Things are amping up over in the Gilis, as Lombok gets ready for its high season. With so many great places to eat on Gili T, it’s been fun so far and I have just employed a new good chef who I’m training and will feature him in the next issue.
1/8 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup oil 1 heaping tablespoon tamarind pulp (soaked in 1/4 cup of warm water for 15 minutes, squeeze the tamarind pulp to remove the juice and discard the pulp)
This issue’s recipe is a dish found everywhere around Indonesia and SE Asia… the famous Chicken Satay.
6-8 dried red chillies (seeded and soaked in warm water) adjust for your heat tolerance!
I remember the first time I ate Chicken Satay in Lombok. My wife had taken me to one of those little stalls you see set up on the side of the road and bought us two serves of chicken satay. It came on a plate – 10 small skewers of meat, covered with satay sauce, and some pieces of steamed rice wrapped in coconut leaves. The satays were really tiny and it was hard to get the dried meat off the stick. As I chewed (and chewed!), I realised everything was in there – skin, bits of gristle and fat, intestines and offal, mixed with small bits of chicken
meat. Of course, the stall owners have to use every bit of the chicken to make money… but the taste was disgusting! The peanut sauce was tasty and helped to get the chicken down… until I looked at the plastic bucket full of sauce sitting on the floor and the cat rubbing up against it! Next to the stall, another woman was squatting by the drain and rubbing the plates with a filthy piece of cloth, getting ready for the next diners… no wonder local people are always getting sick! That was enough for me! I returned the rest of our food and went home to start perfecting my own chicken satay!
GILI T RESORT CHICKEN SATAY by Bryce Adamson, Chef & Manager at Gili T Resort Ingredients: Chicken Skewers: 1 kg Boneless Chicken Breast (skin removed!) Bundle of bamboo satay skewers (available at supermarkets) Satay Peanut Sauce Recipe 1 1/2 cup dry roasted peanuts (unsalted) 1 cup water 1 tablespoon sweet soy sauce (Kecap Manis) 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar (palm sugar preferred)
3 cloves garlic 3 shallots 2 stalks of lemon grass (white parts only) 1 inch galangal (you can use ginger but it’s not as good, may be too overpowering) 1 tablespoon coriander powder (this is optional but gives the sauce a flavour boost) Directions: 1) Soak the skewers in hot water for around 10 minutes to prevent them splintering 2) Cut the chicken into bite sized chunks and thread generous amounts onto the skewers 3) Crush the peanuts coarsely with a mortar and pestle or in food processor and set aside. 4) Chop the spice paste ingredients and blend all until fine. 5) Heat oil and fry the spice paste until aromatic and smells spicy. Add the peanuts, tamarind juice, water, sugar, sweet soy sauce and stir thoroughly. Simmer on low heat while continuing to stir for about 3 minutes, or until the peanut sauce turns smooth. 5) Fry or grill the chicken skewers until cooked and juicy 6) Serve chicken skewers on a bed of steamed rice and cover with the satay sauce. Great served with pickled vegetables (Indonesian acar) on the side. Some people like to marinate the chicken first, but this sauce is so tasty, it doesn’t need any other flavours. These satays make a tasty meal, or are great for a snack and to serve at dinner parties, or when having a few drinks with friends. Of course, you can substitute chicken for beef, calamari, prawns, lamb, etc., or even tofu (tahu) for a vegetarian option. As always, if you don’t have time to make this recipe on your own, or you’re worried about stabbing yourself with the satay sticks, come to the Gili T Resort and we’ll be happy to make it for you!
Lombok chefs who would like to contribute a local recipe and be featured in “In Good Taste”, please email us at: email@example.com
DREAM DIVERS DREAM IT…
DREAM DIVERS have been Lombok diving specialists since 1996. Our SSI Instructor Training Center and PADI Dive Center on Gili Trawangan (also home to the DREAM DIVERS Bungalows, Bar & Restaurant), Gili Air and in Senggigi, on mainland Lombok, offer fun diving for everyone, SSI & PADI diving courses for all age groups and skill levels - from ‘Discover Scuba Diver’ to ‘Dive Instructor’. MORE THAN JUST A DIVE CENTER! Our staff is ready to ensure that you experience a really great holiday. We can arrange snorkel trips, accommodation, domestic flights, transport, sightseeing tours, diving in South Lombok, Komodo or Bali, and much, much more. Let us help you make your stay unforgettable. Nothing is impossible - DREAM IT… DO IT! For our Senggigi based guests we offer daily transport & dive trips over to the Gili Islands, including a pick up from your hotel.
Explore the Reef!
Not much time?
Snorkeling Trips on Gili Air & Gili Trawangan
Discover Scuba Diving in 1 day Become a Scuba Diver in 2 days
HEAD OFFICE SENGGIGI: Ph 0370 692 047 | Fax 0370 693 738 | Gili Trawangan: 0370 6134 496 | Gili Air: 0370 634 547 www.dreamdivers.com | firstname.lastname@example.org
Live Music! Great Food! Good Times! Every Friday â€˜Ary Juliyant and Friendsâ€™ from 7.30 pm in the garden
Jl. Raya (Main Street) Senggigi, Lombok 0370 693619 email@example.com
Many styles and colours! PURI Leisure Furniture Jl. Raya Senggigi Duduk Garden No.6 Batu Bolong (Kampung Duduk) Phone / Fax: +62 (0) 370 6194 123 / 0813 3955 5456 | www.gandari.com
NOW OPEN IN SENGGIGI! MAMAS, NIKMAT, CATER PRODUCTS Sirloin, Tenderloin, Fillet Steaks Cold Cuts and Deli Meats Salami, Ham, Chicken and Turkey Sausages - Breakfast, Pork, Chicken, Beef, Herb and Mixed Dry Pasta and Sauces Gandari Purified Ice Cubes
Open 9am to 10pm every day
Jl Raya Senggigi, next to Sendok Bar & Restaurant | Ph: 0370 693 531
UD. GANDARI ICE SOLUTION
Pure refreshing ice cubes made from UV sterilised and purified spring water. Hygienically packaged for your convenience Supplying hotels, restaurants, bars, cafes & private villas
FREE DELIVERY EVERY DAY Jl Raya Senggigi, Duduk Garden No.6 Batu Bolong
Hotline: Hp: 081 836 8731 | Ph: 0370 619 4273 | Flexi: 0370 668 1958
PLEASANT LITTLE HOUSE OR HOLIDAY HOME IN BATU LAYAR SENGGIGI FOR RENT! Ideal for a couple or a single person. It’s light and bright, and it’s in a nice neighbourhood, 10-15 minutes walk from the beach. Two bedrooms with home office, kitchen, living room, nice bathroom, big yard with shrubs and flowers, and garage for motorbike and car.
Facilities: 2 AC, hot water, internet connection, fully furnished, electricity & water, wired for cable TV.
Price Rp 4,000,000 per month depending on availability Please contact for pictures or inspection:
Juli +62 (0) 81 138 660 47
IN NEED OF HELP? Translations and language courses Visa arrangements and permits House Management and IT Solutions www.lombok-personal-assistant.com Tel. 081221617850 or 08121006776 We are looking for candidates:
- FRONT OFFICE (RECEPTIONIST) - DRIVER (ENGLISH SPEAKING & EXPERIENCED) - HOUSEKEEPING - F&B SERVICE (BARKEEPER & WAITER) - SECURITY - ENGINEERING - ADMINISTRATION STAFF (COMPUTER KNOWLEDGE) Send your CV and apply to: firstname.lastname@example.org
NEW MENU ITEMS NOW AVAILABLE! Come try our Chicken Quesadilla Jaffle and Chicken Nuggets! Text your hp number to the Berugaq Hotline: 0819 072 10888 - we’ll let you know about our food and drink deals, events and more! K U TA L O M B O K - F O R S A L E Beachfront Land 9 are 91 are - full ocean view 2 are and 15 are (on first roundabout) SEKOTONG - FOR SALE 5 hectares - view of three Gilis and full ocean views 4 0 H P YA M A H A E N G I N E Long Leg. Asking Price Rp 10 million
Contact owner 0819 9991 5775 / 0878 6460 0950
Safe and professional English-speaking driver with comfortable air conditioned car (seats 5 - 6). Private airport transfers or airport to Kuta, Mataram, Senggigi, Gilis, etc Available for private charter and Lombok tours. Competitive rates and friendly service!
Phone: 0819 1701 3714 Email: email@example.com
HOUSE FOR RENT Special for foreigner. 700sqm with yard. Fully furnished, garage for 3 cars, 4 bedroom, hot water system, AC. Located in Cakra
0817 578 9207 / 0370 627 766
GOLF PLAYERS WANTED SENGGIGI HACKERS AMATEUR GOLF SOCIETY (SHAGS) Friendly, non-profit golf Games every week – Monthly Cup New members, tourists and casual games Discount rates! ALL WELCOME!
Ph: 0813 398 11140 (Jim) | www.golf-lombok.com
Pasar Classifieds & Discount Vouchers
4 Bedroom Home For Sale
Large two-storey house, approx. 200sqm of living area, with nice views from 2 upstairs balconies. 4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms (one with bathtub). Living room. Hot water system/tank. PDAM. Electricity 2200 Watt. Spacious dine-in kitchen with adjoining laundry corner. Included with the sale: One king size bed, a refrigerator and gas stove. Located in an established BTN in Montong, between Senggigi and Ampenan. About 10 minutes walk to the beach and to Nusa Alam International school. Freehold certificate. Pictures available via email.
THE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF LOMBOK sekolah Nusa alaM
and the Lombok International Language Institute Cambridge A-Level Certificate Courses in English, Biology, Business, Art and Maths IGCSE Courses in Grade 9 and 10. Integrated International and Indonesian Curricula in Grades 7 and 8 lead to SMP and IGCSE Courses Integrated Curricula in Play Group (TK) to Grade 6 Primary (SD) English: Cambridge and IELTS Exam Preparation Courses Bahasa Indonesia Courses for Adults
Price: Rp 369,000,000 (approx. AUD 39,000 / USD 38,000)
For information: (0370) 647514 firstname.lastname@example.org | www.nusaalam.com Semester 1 starts 17th July 2013
For further info please contact : Mobile: 085 33 970 9170 | Email: email@example.com
DISCOUNT VOUCHERS PASAR CLASSIFIEDS AND DISCOUNT VOUCHERS
Bring This Voucher and Pay Only Rp 59,000 For a Cup of Wild Coffee Luwak Plus Free Waffles! Get 10% Discount On All Belgian Waffles!
Present this coupon or quote “Lionfish” for either: Valid 24 June – 8 July 2013
Valid 24 June – 8 July 2013
BOX (9,5cm X 4,9cm) ONLY Rp 50,000 / ISSUE | email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Mataram Mall 2 - 3rd Floor, near parking deck 4a (back entrance south). Ph: 0818 365 790 | www.coffeelombok.com
20% discount on the entry fee Entry fee Rp 200,000 per person includes complimentary boat trip to our ancient snorkelling reef or fun lesson on our Stand-up Paddle Boards. Exquisite scenery, Lombok’s largest relict fossil site, Infinity pool, buy lunch in the restaurant, stroll in the forests or pristine beaches. * Surf craft not allowed for day guests www.sanctuaryinlombok.com | email@example.com Ekas Bay, South-east Lombok
10% Discount on Snorkel Tours 5% Discount on PADI Dive Courses. Please book in advance by phone: (0370) 693 719 or visit our offices at the Holiday Resort * Discount applies to a min 2 people Not in addition to any other promotions or discount offers
SECRET ISLAND RESORT Gili Gede, Southwest Lombok Valid 24 June – 8 July 2013
Valid 24 June – 8 July 2013
LOMBOK’S BEST SANCTUARY
10% Discount on Fun Dives
“3 Day Package Deal” Standard Double Room + 2 breakfast, + free use of double Kayak, Rp 500,000 On presentation of this coupon Phone: 0818 0376 2001 firstname.lastname@example.org | www.secretislandresort.com
General Information (Directory Assistance): (0370) 108 BANK / ATM Bank Central Asia (BCA) Jl. Pejanggik No.67, Mataram, Lombok Phone: 0370 632588, Fax: 0370 622347 ATMs - Jl. Raya Senggigi, Senggigi, W. Lombok - Mataram Mall, Mataram, W. Lombok - MGM Plaza, Jl. AA Gede Ngurah, Mataram - Jl. Airlangga, Mataram, W. Lombok - Jl. Jendral Sudirman, Praya, C. Lombok - Jl. Langko, Mataram, W. Lombok - Jl Raya Senggigi (Senggigi Square) Bank Danamon Indonesia Jl. Pejanggik No.117, Mataram, W. Lombok Phone: 0370 631322, Fax: 0370 633068 ATMs - Jl. Koperasi 1, Mataram, W. Lombok - Jl. Raya Senggigi, Senggigi, W. Lombok - Komplek Ruko B1, Sweta, W. Lombok Bank International Indonesia (BII) Jl. AA Gede Ngurah No.48, Mataram, W. Lombok. Phone: 0370 635027, 633347 ATMs - Jl. Airlangga No.25, Mataram, Lombok - Mataram Mall, Mataram, W. Lombok - Jl. Raya Senggigi, Senggigi, W. Lombok Bank Mandiri Jl. Pejanggik No.20-22, Mataram, W. Lombok. Phone: 0370 631311 ATMs - Jl. Pejanggik No.20, Cakranegara, Lombok - Jl. Taruna Jaya, Mataram, W. Lombok - Mataram Mall, Mataram, W. Lombok - Selaparang Airport, Mataram, W. Lombok - Jl Raya Senggigi (In Front of Santosa) Bank Negara Indonesia (BNI) Jl. Langko No.64, Mataram, W. Lombok Jl. Raya Senggigi, W. Lombok Phone: 0370 631046, Fax: 0370 631005 ATMs - Jl. Langko No.64, Mataram, W. Lombok - Jl. Pejanggik No.68, Mataram, W.Lombok - University of Mataram (UNRAM) - Jl. Sandubaya, Sweta, W. Lombok - Jl. Selaparang No.37, Mataram, W. Lombok - Jl. Raya Senggigi, W. Lombok - Mataram Mall, Mataram, W. Lombok - Jl. Jendral Sudirman 51, Praya, C. Lombok Bank Rakyat Indonesia (BRI) Jl. Pendidikan No.16, Mataram, Lombok Phone: 0370 632246, Fax: 0370 633084 ATMs - Jl. Airlangga, Mataram, W. Lombok - Mataram Mall, Mataram, W. Lombok - Jl. Pahlawan No.92, Selong, E. Lombok MEDICAL / HEALTH CARE Medika Husada Clinic Jl Raya Senggigi. Phone: 0370 6644820 HOSPITALS Rumah Sakit Harapan Keluarga Jl Ahmad Yani 9 Selagalas. Ph: 6177000, 670000. Emergency (24hrs): 6177009. Mataram Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Mataram) Jl. Pejanggik No.6, Mataram, W. Lombok Phone: 0370 623498 / 6604605 New Mataram Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Mataram) Jl. Bung Karno 1 Mataram. Phone: 0370 645045 Central Lombok Public Hospital Jl. Jendral Basuki Rachmad, Praya, Central Lombok. Phone: 0370 654007 East Lombok Public Hospital Jl. Professor M. Yamin No. 55, Selong, East Lombok. Phone: 0376 21680
Biomedika Clinic Jl. Bung Karno 143 Mataram. Phone: 0370 645137 Risa Clinic Jl. Pejanggik 115 Cakranegara. Phone: 0370 625560 / 632117 DENTAL drg. Farida Istiarini, Sp.Ort (Joli Sourire Dental Care) Mataram Mall. Jl. Pejanggik, Cakranegara. Ph: 0370 668 1797 drg. Lina Kulsum Jl. Gunung Dieng No.7, Mataram, Lombok Phone: 0818536236 / 0370 632131 MONEY CHANGERS Multigraha Kelolavalas - Jl. Rasa Senggigi km.10, Senggigi, W. Lombok, Ph; 0370 693693 - Jl. Pejanggik No.1, Mataram, W. Lombok, Ph: 0370 631567 Multigraha Valas Jl. Saleh Sungkar No.1 Ampenan, W. Lombok, Ph: +62 370 624045 PT. Bali Mispintjira Jl. Raya Senggigi km.13, Senggigi, West Lombok, Ph: 0370 692247, 0370 692247 SHOPPING Senggigi Abadi Supermarket Jl. Raya Senggigi, Km.8.5, Senggigi, West Lombok. Phone: 0370 693311 Senggigi Jaya Supermarket Jl. Raya Senggigi, Km.8, Senggigi, West Lombok. Phone: 0370 693530 Alfa Mart Jl Raya Senggigi Indomaret Jl Raya Senggigi Art Market (Pasar Seni) - Jl. Raya Senggigi, Senggigi West Lombok - Gili Trawangan, West Lombok Barata Department Store Jl. Niaga II, Ampenan, West Lombok Phone: 0370 646123 Grand Store Mataram Mall, 3rd floor, Jl. Pejanggik, Cakranegara, W. Lombok. Ph: 0370 629931 Hero Supermarket Mataram Mall, 1st floor, Jl. Pejanggik, Cakranegara, W. Lombok. Ph: 0370 629918 Tiara Department Store Mataram Mall, 1st & 2nd floor, Jl. Pejanggik, Cakranegara, West Lombok Phone: 0370 629902 Kharisma Book Shop Mataram Mall, 2nd floor, Jl. Pejanggik, Cakranegara, West Lombok Phone: 0370 629875 Ruby Supermarket Jl. Pejanggik No.111, Cakranegara, West Lombok. Phone: 0370 631092 Jembatan Baru Supermarket Jl. Pejanggik No.41, Cakranegara, West Lombok. Phone: 0370 636106 MGM Plaza Jl. AA Gede Ngurah No.98, Cakranegara, West Lombok. Phone: 0370 646007 EMERGENCY Senggigi Tourism Police: Jl. Raya Senggigi, Phone. 00370 693267 Lombok Regional Police: Jl. Gajah Mada No. 7 Ampenan. Call this emergency number: 110 Fire Brigade: Phone. 0370 672013. In emergency call 113
Hospital UGD (Emergency Unit Service): Phone: 0370 622254 Ambulance: Phone. 0370 623498. In emergency call 118 TAXIS Blue Bird Taxi, Phone: 0370 627000 Express Group Taxi, Ph: 0370 647555 IMMIGRATION Jl. Udayana, Mataram, Ph: 0370 632520 PUBLIC SERVICES ELECTRICITY PLN Mataram. Ph: 0370 632182 PLN Senggigi. Ph: 0370 693535 WATER PDAM Mataram. Ph: 0370 632510 PDAM Senggigi. Ph: 0370 693886 Telkom (Phone/Internet). Ph: (0370) 147 POST OFFICES Mataram: Jl. Sriwijaya, Phone. 0370 632645 Senggigi: Jl. Raya, Phone. 0370 693711 CONSULATES AUSTRALIA (incl. New Zealand, Canada) Phone: 0361 241118, Fax: 0361 221195, Email: email@example.com BRAZIL Phone: 0361 757775, Fax: 0361 751005. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org BRITAIN Phone: 0361 270601, Fax: 0361 287804, Email: email@example.com CHILE Phone: 0361 756781, Fax: 0361 756783. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org CZECH REPUBLIC Phone: 0361 286465, Fax: 0361 286408. Email: email@example.com DENMARK & NORWAY Phone: 0361 701070, Fax: 0361 701073/4, Email: firstname.lastname@example.org FINLAND & SWEDEN Phone: 0361 288407, Fax: 0361 287242. Email: email@example.com FRANCE Phone: 0361 285485, Fax: 0361 286406, Email: firstname.lastname@example.org GERMANY Phone: 0361 288535, Fax: 0361 288826, Email: email@example.com HUNGARY Phone: 0361 287701, Fax: 0361 287456. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org INDIA Ph. 0361 259502/259503, Fax. 0361259505 E: email@example.com / firstname.lastname@example.org ITALY Phone: 0361 701005. Email: email@example.com JAPAN Phone: 0361 227628, Fax: 0361 265066. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org SPAIN Phone: 0361 975736, Fax: 0361 975726, Email: email@example.com SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA Phone: 0361 751735, Fax: 0361 754457. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org THAILAND Phone: 0361 263310, Fax: 0361 238044 THE NETHERLANDS Phone: 0361 761502, Fax: 0361 752777, Email: email@example.com USA Ph: 0361 233605, Fax: 0361 222426. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
1 HOUR MASSAGE ONLY Rp 60 000
Complete Spa Services at Local Prices! Open every day from 10am to 10pm Phone: 0819 1593 2899
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NGAYU –AYU... Preserving the Past
Photos by Iwan Marindra
The sun has just risen and pure, clear light floods the mountains and valleys surrounding Sembalun Bumbang, a town perched high on the northeast shoulder of Mt Rinjani, 1,065 meters above sea level. The normally quiet town is crowded with thousands of visitors today, as people flock from across Indonesia and throughout Lombok to witness an ancient ritual that has been practiced in this village for hundreds of years. 6 June, 2013 marks the final day of the Ngayu-Ayu celebrations that have been held in the village over the past week, and gives those attending a small glimpse into the rich heritage of the Sasak people. Ngayu-Ayu takes place in Sembalun Bumbung every three years and is held at the beginning of the planting season. It is an ancient nature-based ritual believed to give protection, and to bring prosperity and fertility to the community whose lives depend on agriculture.
Sembalun is one of the earliest places of settlement on Lombok and an area renowned for its cultural traditions, which preserve the history of the Sasak people; paying homage to the roots of Lombok civilisation and pre-Islamic traditions. The name Sembalun itself derives from the root words “Sembah” (meaning sembahyang or “to pray”), and “Hulun” (leader or head), hinting at the area’s role for the community. Records of the ritual of NgayuAyu date back more than 600 years and today the ceremonies are preserved as an important part of Lombok “adat”.
Circling the group who will carry the holy water
Adat is a complex word encompassing tradition, custom and culture. It is distinct from religion and political influence; even today, while Lombok follows the Indonesian law and political
Tari Tandang Mendet (War Dance)
system, adat has its own power in the management of society and the behaviour of the community. Today, the whole community – together with thousands of visitors, photographers and reporters – gathers outside the house of the adat leader in Sembalun Bumbung. There, he greets officials and welcomes the adat elders and members of the Alliance of Indigenous Peoples: the group who will partake in the main rituals.
Continued on Page 54
54 Continued from Page 53
Adat Community in Sembalun Bumbung
He leads the prayers and chants, and then blesses the group, anointing their heads with a mixture of rice and spices meant to ward off evil and protect them during the rituals. Outside, handsome warriors stand guard â€“ dressed in traditional woven cloth and wearing white sapuk (cloth head dresses). The spears and weapons they hold are also part of the history of Lombok; sacred and ancient weapons hundreds of years old.
Musicians play huge drums, called Gendang Beleq, and gamelan instruments that are also more than 600 years old. The weapons and instruments are stored as treasures in Sembalun and are only bought out in public during important ceremonies such as Ngayu-Ayu. Once the blessings and preparations are finalised, the adat group and the warriors lead the crowd through the village to the
Circling the grave site 9 times before the ritual
community field. They carry ceremonial dishes of rice, betul and other offerings, as well as snacks made into the shapes of insects and small animals.
55 The group bearing the offerings and containers of holy water circle the grave nine times to the sound of gamelan music and chanting. The elders take their place inside the fenced area and perform the ritual, placing the offerings and the containers of sacred water on the stones that mark the grave and form an ancient altar. They are praying for a successful planting and growing season, freedom from pests, balance with nature; as well as fertility and prosperity for the whole community. On a deeper level, this is a Pagar Gumi ritual, symbolising the relationship between human beings, between man and God, living beings and the universe.
Perang Topat taking place on the community field
Solemn members carry twelve bamboo containers which hold holy water collected from 12 springs that exist in the jungles around the village and provide irrigation for the abundant crops grown here. This water is considered a sacred symbol of the “water of life” and the containers are carried carefully, shaded by umbrellas. At the public square, another group of warriors stand proudly with spears held high. Amongst the officials are a group of Kings, Queens, Sultans and their wives – representing the traditional royal families from throughout Indonesia, including the Chairman, Ida Cokorda Ngurah Jambe Pemecutan (the King of Denpasar IX) and his entourage. More chants and blessings are held in the centre of the field, as the two groups of warriors line up on either side. Drums beat and gamelan gongs chime as the pemangku (adat leader) signals it is time. From bags, small parcels of ketupat appear – woven bunches of coconut leaves that contain steamed rice. The opposing teams of warriors hurl the small missiles at each other in a mock war, called Perang Topat (similar to the famous Perang Topat that is held at Lingsar Temple every year). The crowd yells approval and rushes to catch some of the fallen ketupat. The pemangku calls
out the numbers that each warrior should throw – 5, 15, 25 – the magical number believed to defeat the devil, derived from an ancient legend in the village. The mock war represents the fight between good and evil, but evil is also symbolised by the more mundane problems of pestilence, floods and drought that may affect the crops that are the backbone of the economy for the village. Once the excitement dies down, the groups proceed to a nearby gravesite behind the field. Makam Berugaq Reban Bande is a fenced grave, believed to be the burial place of a wise man who is revered in the village.
Earlier in the day, black buffalo, cows and chickens have been sacrificed and the buffalo head is buried near the grave, to bring fertility to the land. After the holy part of the proceedings have finished, everyone receives food prepared
from the cooked animals and spends the rest of the day having fun. There are dances in the evening, as well as traditional music and cultural performances. The highlight is a theatrical performance that tells the story of Cupak and Gerantang, two brothers who fight to rescue a princess from an evil giant who has kidnapped her. The legend represents the battle between good and evil and is a lesson in greed, manners and human nature. Spellbound, the audience watches under a sky filled with thousands of stars. Outside, darkness is lit by flaming torches and the throb of the big drums resonates across the valleys. It could be 2013, or some time from a distant and magical past, when man and nature lived in harmony with the Gods...
56 The three main cities in Lombok – Ampenan, Mataram and Cakranegara – have expanded over the years and now merge together to create what is, for Lombok, an urban sprawl of shops, administrative centres and residential areas. A visit to the cities makes an interesting day trip, exploring the numerous small shops selling everything imaginable at low prices. There are numerous pearl shops in Ampenan selling unset pearls and pearl jewellery at cheap prices. These are genuine pearls from the pearl farms on Lombok and Sumbawa and, if you bargain the price, are a good deal. Gold shops are also popular in both Ampenan and Cakra, with 24 kt gold being sold by the gram, regardless of the design. For cheap and interesting food choices, explore the many restaurants, warungs and food stalls in the cities. Or just wander around the streets to soak up the atmosphere and discover fascinating insights into Lombok city life! Ampenan was the original old port in Lombok during Dutch colonial times and some of the old architecture is still visible around the town, particularly toward the beach to the west. This area becomes a market at night, filled with warungs and kaki lima (food carts) for cheap, tasty food and local flavour. With its numerous shops, cheap hotels, dusty roads and plentiful cidomo (horse carts), gold and pearl shops, and its Arab quarter, Ampenan is a colourful town to explore. Kebun Roek, just near the traffic lights in Ampenan on the road from the airport, is the site of the local markets. Every day traders set up stalls selling fresh produce from around the island, local snacks and products, live chickens and fresh fish in the afternoon when the fishing boats
Mataram Mall come in. A stroll through the markets is a pungent and enlightening experience! Mataram, about 3 km to the east of Ampenan, is the administrative centre for Lombok and Sumbawa (NTB Province), with government offices, banks, mosques, schools and colleges, bookstores, the main post office, and Mataram University downtown. In Mataram, the Nusa Tenggara Barat Museum houses historical and cultural artefacts from Lombok and Sumbawa. It’s an interesting place to visit and occasionally hosts special exhibits. Displays include exhibits on geology, history and culture. Address: Jl Panji Tilar. Ph: 632159 for opening times. There is a small admission fee. Also worth visiting is the cultural centre, Taman Budaya on Jl Majapahit. Music and dance performances are presented here regularly. Phone: 622428 for details. Mataram Mall, on the main street in Mataram, has an upstairs food court for cheap local meals. Lombok’s only real mall, there are four floors of shops and stalls selling a vast selection of goods. Particularly good buys are shoes, jeans, and copy brand bags and belts. There is a department store, several electronics stores, and shops selling clothing, CD’s and DVD’s. Hero Supermarket, on the ground floor, is useful for some western goods, food and toiletries. The Chemist next door has imported toiletries, supplements and medicines. McDonalds and KFC have outlets on the ground floor.
Pura Meru (Meru Temple)
Cakranegara (usually abbreviated to “Cakra”) is Lombok’s main shopping area. It is also home to many Chinese and Balinese, who make up over 50 percent of the city’s population. The streets of the city make an interesting tour with gold
shops, sporting goods, clothing stores and very good fabric stores selling imported silks, laces and cottons, to name a few. Many of Lombok’s weaving and basket making industries are located near Cakra; turn left at the central traffic lights and look for the market on the right near the bridge. The baskets in particular are sold in Bali at many times the local price. The next large town east of Cakra, Sweta, has a huge market every day near the Bertais bus terminal, with all kinds of goods on sale, from foodstuffs to clothing, exotic birds, handicrafts and more. Nearby Temples and Places of Interest Pura Meru on Jl Selaparang, Cakranegara, was built in 1720 by Balinese Prince Anak Agung Made Karang and is the largest temple on Lombok. Its three meru are for the Hindu trinity – Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. This is an important temple for the Balinese here and its annual Pujawali festival, held over five days during the full moon in September or October, is the biggest Balinese Hindu event on Lombok. The outer courtyard hall has large drums used to announce ceremonies and festivals. In the central courtyard are two buildings with raised offering platforms. The interior enclosure has 33 shrines as well as the three multi-tiered meru. Pura Mayura, just across the street from Pura Meru, was built in 1744 as the court temple of the last Balinese kings in Lombok. An open hall or bale kambang (floating pavilion) stands in a large artificial lake here and is used as a place for meetings and to relax. Today the palace gardens are a playground for children. The temple sits behind the sedate water gardens and is open daily; admission is by donation.
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Floating in the sparkling turquoise waters just off the southwest coast are thirteen small islands called the Southwest Gilis. Unlike the famous Gili islands in the northwest of Lombok, the Southwest Gilis are largely uninhabited and have yet to be discovered by most travellers... thus we call them “The Secret Islands”. The Sekotong region starts just south of Lembar Harbour and features stunning beaches and bays set against a backdrop of rolling hills. The drive itself is a worthwhile trip, meandering through villages where life is largely untouched by tourism and where the people are involved in their day-today activities of farming, fish cultivation, boating and fishing, brick-making and other traditional pastimes. Along the roadsides you will see people building and repairing boats, laying out hand-made bricks to dry in the sun, working in the fields, and sometimes guiding primitive wooden ploughs harnessed to huge water buffalo, as they prepare the fields for planting.
Secret Islands, Pristine Beaches! Nanggu Cottages providing simple cottages on the beach and a restaurant, as well as deluxe rooms further back from the beach. The island is small and the beach here has soft white sand and a good reef just off the beach for snorkelling. Travelling a little further south, before the marine culture complex (Balai Budaya Laut), there is a small dirt road leading out onto a white peninsular of sand that juts into beautiful clear waters. Drive to the end for superb views and a close up look at Gili Genting. Gili Genting sits just off the tip of the peninsular and at low tide you can walk across the sandbar and explore this uninhabited island. Old volcanic rocks and stone carved from centuries of tidal flow create small caves and alcoves, providing shelter for picnics and interesting nooks and crannies to explore.
Back on the main road and slightly further south is Sundancer Resort, with its distinctive blue roofs dotted on the The peaceful village of Taun (or Tawun), is hillside overlooking another white sand situated on a wide, placid bay in Sekotong. beach. The hotel development is still under construction. The ocean is sparkling turquoise and the dazzling white sand stretches in a wide Across the road from Sundancer, on the sweep around the bay, while the hills beachfront, is Dive Zone – a well-run behind form a perfect backdrop to this diving facility and experts on diving idyllic setting. the southwest islands, having pioneered development of previously unknown dive Just out in the calm bay are the three sites in this area. lovely islands of Gili Nanggu, Gili Tangkong and Gili Sudat – all easily Dive Zone offer dive trips around accessible by local outrigger boats. A small Sekotong and the islands, as well as in three locations in South Lombok – sign in the nearby village will direct you including challenging world-class diving to the local boat hire area, where you can off southeast Lombok. arrange boat trips out to Gili Nanggu and the other small islands offshore. Another few kilometres past Dive Zone is Cocotinos Boutique Beach Resort, set Of the three, only Gili Nanggu has on the secluded beach at Tanjung Empat. accommodation for visitors, with Gili
With 28 rooms, including beachfront villas with private swimming pools, Cocotinos is the only luxury accommodation in the area. Cocotinos in Sekotong is the second venture for the Odyssea Asia group, with their first dive resort already well established in Manado, Sulawesi. Scuba diving courses and dives, operated by Odyssea Divers, are available from the resort, together with snorkelling, boating and other sea sports. Fronting the resort is a glorious white sand beach which spans over 300m, part of which is a private cove. Facilities include a 17m beach front swimming pool, a restaurant overlooking the bay, the Laleina Spa on the waterfront, a boat jetty, and diving and boating facilities. At the next intersection there is a signpost to the right for Labuhan Poh and Pelangan, the site of Bola Bola Paradis. This is a small hotel, situated right on the beachfront with comfortable and clean rooms at reasonable prices. The hotel also organises snorkelling tours and is a popular choice for those surfing at Bangko-Bangko. The largest of these islands is Gili Gede, appropriately meaning “Big Island”. The island lays just offshore and is so large visitors often mistake it for part of the mainland. Gili Gede is easily reached by boat from the village of Tembowong and is only minutes across the water. Gili Gede is one of the few islands in the area that has accommodation, at Secret Island Resort on the south, Via Vaccare on the northwest and Madak Belo on the east. Gili Gede is large enough to provide a range of activities such as hiking to the
65 own a large parcel of land on Gili Ringgit and have constructed a boat mooring and pier on the island. There is good snorkelling on the west side of Gili Ringgit, accessed by boat. Large gardens of hard and soft corals lay just beneath the surface and the reef extends along most of the island’s coast. On the other side of the island is where the pier is located, with a fantastic white sand beach. It is a favourite for guests from Secret Island Resort, and Dive Zone often brings divers to the island to relax in between dives, as the scenery and beach here are so lovely.
hills in the centre for fantastic views across the other islands, exploring deserted beaches and hidden coves and meeting the people living on the island, who are very friendly and, as yet, unspoilt by tourism. Secret Island has comfortable budget accommodation, including a unique bungalow perched on a pier over the reef – the only one in either Lombok or Bali. The Resort offers a host of activities that all the family will enjoy, while also being a place
It’s easy to snorkel offshore, just north of the pier and, although the reef isn’t as large as on the other side of the island, there is still plenty to see. Bright blue starfish drape themselves across patches of coral, and bright yellow and black Moorish Idols dart through the water. Schools of where you can get away from it all. hundreds of small iridescent fish swim past Secret Island can also organise fishing trips and weirdly shaped squid drift by in the and island hopping excursions to the other deeper areas. beautiful islands in the area, most of which We met a boat load of happy tourists on are deserted, about their comfortable 9m Gili Ringgit, out for the day with Dive custom-built boat “Scorpio”. Zone, who described the diving as some of the best they’ve ever experienced. Most To the south of Gili Gede, the islands of couldn’t stop gushing about the huge Gili Ringgit, Layar and Asahan are lined school of turtles they had just seen near up like secret treasures in the calm sea. Gili Layar! Bounty Cruises, a Bali based company, Continued on Page 66
66 Continued from Page 65
All around these Southwest Gilis, abundant coral reefs lay just below the surface waiting to be explored, filled with thousands of brightly coloured tropical fish, huge sprawling blue starfish and magical turtles gently gliding through the water. Slightly south of Gili Gede, beautiful Gili Asahan attracts visitors with deserted white sand beaches, clear calm waters and swaying palm trees. Pearl Beach Resort, the only accommodation on the island, is a lovely boutique hotel with charming and welldesigned bungalows looking out over a breath-taking beach. Of a higher standard than most of the southwest accommodation, each bungalow has a private terrace and western style bathrooms with hot water. There is also a beachfront restaurant serving western and Indonesian meals. The resort is popular with divers and can arrange diving and snorkelling trips, as well as island-hopping tours. Pearl Beach
is perfect for romantic escapes and for those seeking the tranquillity of a private island resort. Leaving Gili Asahan and back on the mainland there are small home-stays and private accommodations spaced out along the road to Bangko-Bangko – known as Desert Point and the surfing Mecca for those in the know – located on the far southwest tip of Lombok. The wide white sand bay is lined with fisherman’s huts and draws hundreds of surfers every year from as far away as Hawaii and Brazil to challenge the huge waves of Desert Point, just offshore. Although the road deteriorates after Labuhan Poh, it is still passable for most vehicles in the dry season. During the surfing season, from mid-May to September and again in December, the beach is buzzing with surfers, but otherwise it is a remote and peaceful area. Bali is clearly visible, with the island of Nusa Penida only about an hour’s sail away.
The drive to the point is dotted with bucolic scenery and tiny villages, making it a worthwhile trip even for non-surfers. There is basic surfer accommodation in the area and plans for development in the near future. Those who wish to explore the underwater world further can join dive adventures with either Dive Zone in Sekotong or Odyssea Divers at Cocotinos The dive sites reflect a good cross-section of what Indonesian diving has to offer. Dive in and be fascinated by turtles, white tip reef sharks, cuttlefish, moray eels and many other varieties of marine life. The reefs are full of bright soft corals and colourful corals, which harbor an amazing variety of rare marine life, including ghost pipe fish, leaf fish, pygmy seahorses and much more. The southwest is slated for tourism development and it’s easy to imagine hotels and resorts on all these beaches and islands in the future, as well as yachts, fishing boats, windsurfers, dive boats and the like. But for now, the Southwest is unspoilt and the Gilis remain the secret islands… stunningly beautiful, pristine and unique; and known only to the lucky few.
Kuta and The South Coast
Kuta by Barbara Cahyadi
KUTA AND THE SUBLIME SOUTH COAST
Indonesia boasts some of the most magnificent scenery in the world and the south coast of Lombok rates as being among the best.
South Lombok has views that inspire artists and photographers and leaves visitors from around the world speechless at the sublime panoramic beauty that unfolds beach after beach, bay after bay, all along the coast.
Nearby, on the hilltop, is one of the oldest mosques in Lombok, Mesjid Kuno. The small building with a thatched roof is considered holy and many believers make pilgrimages to pray here.
The beaches of the south draw crowds to bake on the blindingly white sands, swim in the crystal clear oceans and challenge some of the best surf breaks in Indonesia.
Slightly further south is Sade, an hilltop village with more Lumbungs and traditional homes. Both villages have been renovated and cater to the tourist market, but are still interesting examples of traditional Sasak architecture and communal living within the compounds, where life continues as it has for centuries.
Kuta (sometimes spelt Kute) is the main town and tourism centre on the south coast of Lombok, and is the hub for exploring the fantastic southern beaches and the many points of interest in the region. Located around 60 km south of Mataram and about one and a half hour’s drive from Senggigi, Kuta makes for a wonderful day trip from other points in Lombok, or an alternative holiday destination for travellers exploring Lombok. Since the Lombok International Airport opened in late 2011, many of the major roads have been upgraded and the main road to Kuta is very good. The new airport is located only 25 minutes’ drive north of Kuta and has made access to the south very easy. The proximity to the airport has already sparked an investment boom in the area and major developments are expected over the coming year. For now, the south is uncrowded, pristine and spectacular. The drive down to the south coast is an interesting rural tour of small villages and farming communities. Fields of tobacco, corn and peanuts line the roadsides and farmers till the fields using antiquated ploughs pulled by large water buffalo. Just before arriving in Kuta, the road passes two traditional Sasak villages – Sade and Rambitan. On the east side of the road is Rambitan, a village that caters to tourists and has authentic clusters of thatched Lumbung, or rice barns, and traditional homes made of thatch and bamboo, with hardened cow and buffalo dung floors.
Residents, who act as guides for a small fee, encourage walks through either of these villages and are happy to share a glimpse of their lifestyles with visitors. Kuta itself is a small town with hotels, home-stays and backpacker’s hostels that cater mainly to the thousands of surfers from around the world who are drawn to the area every year to surf the left- and right-hand breaks out in the bay.
Nearby Mandalika Beach is named after the legendary Princess Mandalika, a beloved character in Sasak folklore. It is near here that thousands of people gather every year to celebrate the colourful ritual of Bau Nyale, when masses of sea worms spawn in the waters offshore.
Ashtari, around 2km west of Kuta, stands out from the usual Kuta cafés and is a “must stop” for those touring in the area. Perched on top of the hill with spectacular views over Kuta and the surrounding There is a good variety of accommodation, beaches, Ashtari serves exquisite teas and restaurants and facilities for travellers and juices, and delicious vegetarian meals and – with investment taking off –more options organic gourmet snacks that are truly out of the ordinary. Open Tuesday to Sunday, are opening all the time. There are plans for breakfast and lunch only. for a luxury beachfront resort in central Kuta this year and smaller developments Kuta attracts thousands of visitors are already under construction. every year for the great surf locations At present, Kuta boasts just one luxury at Gerupuk, Tanjung Aan, Ekas, and the resort: the Novotel beaches to the west. It’s easy to hire a Lombok. The board and a surf guide from here to learn Novotel has a range surfing or, for experienced surfers, to of accommodation, access the more challenging surf breaks in from comfortable the area. Hire a car or motorbike and you hotel rooms to can spend days visiting beautiful, mainly spacious suites and deserted beaches, both to the east and west luxurious villas, of Kuta. some with private swimming pools. Around 4 km east of Kuta is Tanjung A’an, with perfect white sand beaches and good Designed to waves for surfers. Slightly further east is blend in with the Gerupuk, well known as a top surf location environment, and and situated on a peninsula of land that juts with a stunning out into the ocean, with stunning views of beachfront location, the sea, and the surrounding islands and the Novotel is a bays. There is a good surf school here and wonderful example no fewer than five surf breaks. of traditional Sasak Continued on Page 71 architecture.
Kuta and The South Coast
Kuta and The South Coast The beaches and scenery continue all the way to the east coast, with fantastic places such as Bumbang, Awang Bay, Ekas and Pantai Sorga (Heaven Beach)… the name says it all!
71 Continued from Page 69
At Bumbang, Bumbangku Beach Cottages has simple thatched cottages and comfortable brick deluxe rooms right on a beautiful deserted beach. There is a good restaurant, serving fresh fish and seafood caught by local fishermen, and easy access to the best surfing spots nearby. Even for non-surfers, Bumbangku is a delightful place to spend a few days, swimming, strolling along the wide calm bay and relaxing in the peaceful natural surroundings. Further east, Heaven on the Planet and Ocean Heaven (collectively known as HOTPlanet) currently has the monopoly on accommodation in the southeast, although there are plans to develop the Tanjung Ringgit area. For now, however, these two exclusive properties provide the chance to really escape from the outside world in sublime surroundings. The resorts feature comfortable accommodation, good restaurants, swimming pool, a Spa and Wellness Centre and a host of water activities, such as surfing, snorkelling, kayaking, wind-surfing and more. Heading west from Kuta are another series of beautiful beaches and bays
hidden behind headlands and rolling hills, providing peaceful and secluded spots for picnics and swimming. All are within easy day trips of Kuta. Mawun Beach is around 30 minutes’ drive to the west and is a picturesque, almost circular bay with small green headlands rolling into the ocean from either side. It is a spectacular beach with calm blue waters, perfect for swimming and spending a day lazing on the white sand. Mawi, around another 7km to the west, has good right- and left-hand barrels for surfing when the swell is large enough. At other times, it is a lovely beach with impressive views of Gili Lawang just offshore; look for the three startling pinnacles of rock jutting out of the ocean. Selong Blanak is a long sweeping bay framed on each end by headlands and surrounded by rolling hills. Sempiak Villas has plush villas perched on the hillside
with breath-taking panoramic views. Laut Biru Café at Sempiak Villas is a popular place for a stop – or justifies a day trip in itself – and serves fresh and delicious snacks and meals throughout the day in a pretty restaurant overlooking the beach. Spend a day exploring the area, with lunch and a swim here as the highlights of your trip. Further west are picturesque Sepi and Blongas bays, and many more scenic beaches along the way; all are mostly deserted. The road deteriorates rapidly and the going can be rough at times. For exploring this remote area it’s best to use an experienced local guide with a good vehicle. Steeped in history and legend, surrounded by beaches of almost surreal beauty, the south coast is a fascinating area to visit, whether your interests are historical, cultural or just the opportunity to see and explore some of the most beautiful and pristine coastal scenery in Indonesia.
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Kuta and The South Coast
A View from Kuta Heights Development
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“KHD... the safe way to buy land and build in Kuta” Until recently only large plots of land were available for sale in Kuta Lombok. With huge demand from westerners, fuelled by the development of the new international airport just an easy 20 minutes’ drive away, KHD are now developing what westerners have been seeking - manageable blocks of land where you can build your dream villa. We have plots with stunning views across Kuta and the bay, or buy in Kuta Green, our lush peaceful valley. Owners can self manage or have your home professionally managed and rented out while you are away.
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South Lombok Map 73
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EVERY TWO WEEKS AT THESE LOCATIONS:
GARUDA INDONESIA AIRLINES: Departure counters in LOMBOK, BALI & JAKARTA. BLUE BIRD TAXI & EXPRESS GROUP TAXI: In their every taxi unit in Lombok & Bali.
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DEADLINE NEXT EDITION 12 NOON 28 JUNE
AIRPORT: Hotel counters outside the airport. BALI: Amo Spa, Arena Sport Bar & Rest, Asia Collection Tour, Asia Prospects, Asian Trails Tour, Balcony Rest, Barb’s Sport Warung, BIMC, Blue Water Express, Bounty Cruises, Caesar Rest & Bar, Cafe Bali, Café Canggu, Café Marzano, Café Smorgas, Canggu Club, D Corner Bar & Rest, Double Dutch, Eco Beach Rest, Exotissimo Travel Indonesia, Gili Shop Poppies 1 & 2, Gili Cat Bali, Gloria Jeans Coffee 1 & 2, Go Vacation Tour, Golden Kris Tour, Grocer & Grind, Havana Club Bar & Rest, Jimmy Sport Bar & Rest, Indo-Ned, Junction Bar & Rest, Khaima Rest & Bar, Made’s Warung Kuta & Seminyak, Maya Coffee & Smothie Bar, Ocha Warung, Pacific World, Pacto Tour, Piduh Rest, Poppies bar & Rest, Red Carpet, Rutica Cucina Italiana, Sate Bali Rest Echo Beach, Sendok Bar & Rest Legian, Sol Beach Rest, SOS, Sticky Fingers Italiana, The Cameng Bar & Rest, The Plumbers Arms, The Porch Cafe, The Wicked Parrot, Trattoria Cucina Italiana, Ultimo Bar & Rest, Vila Lumbung, Warung Bale Bali, Warung Bonita, Warung Eropa, Warung Italia, Warung Kolega, Warung Made Bar & Rest, Warung Max, Warung Sulawesi, White Sands Rest & Bar, Yut’s Place Rest. MATARAM: Citramulia Travel, CV Ananta Guna Lestari, Depo Jaya Bangunan, Ira Property, Losmen Tjabe Merah, Mataram Mall (Delicio Café, Joli Sourire Dental Care, KFC, Lombok Coffee House, McDonalds, Oceanic Café), NTB Museum, Nur Hikmah Pearls, Pisa Kafe, PT Lambang Sejati, Sinta Pest Control, Toko Susana. SOUTH LOMBOK: Bumbangku Cottages, Secret Island Resort. SENGGIGI: Alfa Mart, Anna’s Giftshop, Asmara Restaurant, Blue Marlin Senggigi, Café Alberto, Cafe Lombi, Ciokolata, De Quake, Deli Senggigi, Dream Divers, Dream Estate, Graha Beach Senggigi Hotel, Holiday Resort, Living Asia, Karyana Gallery, Lombok Property & Villas, Lotus Bayview, Marina Srikandi, Marshander Spa & Salon, Meat Mart, Orchid Spa, Papa Besar Cafe, Puri Furniture, Puri Bunga Cottages, Puri Mas Boutique Resort, Qunci Villas, Rambo Petshop, Senggigi Jaya Abadi Supermarket, Sheraton, Square Restaurant, Stars Cafe, Svarga Resort, Temptations, The Beach Club, The Chandi, The Office, Warung Botol, Windy Beach Resort. GILI T: Blue Marlin Dive, Blue Water Cruises, Desa Dunia Beda, Gili T Resort, Gili Getaway, ko-ko-mo Resort, Oceano Resort, Pesona Resort, Hotel Vila Ombak, Manta Dive, Ombak Sunset, Scallywags, The Beach House, The Trawangan. GILI MENO: Blue Marlin Dive, Mahamaya, Tropical Hideaways Resort. GILI AIR: Scallywags, The Beach Club. SUMBAWA: Mini Mart, Newmont Mining Site. Special thanks to our contributors: Barbara Cahyadi, Dian Cahyadi, Didik Hariadi, FOKUS Unram, Iwan Haryanto, Iwan Marindra, Iain Kent, Koes Nadi, Nanang Wirawan, www.lombokphotographer.com, www.balidiscovery.com. Printed by PT. Temprina Media Grafika, Denpasar, Bali Copyright © 2013. All rights reserved. Nothing in The Lombok Guide can be reproduced in whole or part without written permission from the publisher.
The Gili Islands Unique tropical escapes!
Although previously popular mainly with backpackers, the Gilis now attract a diverse range of visitors – serious diving enthusiasts, sun-seekers looking for the perfect beach getaway, singles, families, and couples of all ages find something to attract them to the Gilis.
Three perfect coral islands – Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air – fringed with white sands and swaying palm trees, lay in the sparkling ocean just off the north-west coast of Lombok.
There is a good selection of accommodations, restaurants and bars on all three islands, with the biggest range on Gili Trawangan.
While nobody comes to the Gilis for shopping, each island has many small shops selling essentials such as sunscreen, mosquito repellent, toiletries, cold drinks, snacks and more. In addition, there are cheap clothing and t-shirts, sarongs and local handicrafts stalls. Activities include walking, riding bikes, horse riding and kayaking on Gili T, yoga, massage and beauty treatments, glass bottom boat trips and island hopping, live-aboard dive trips and cruises to nearby islands, fishing, sailing, surfing and all kinds of water-based activities.
Every year the Gilis attract tens of thousands of visitors from around the world for their pristine waters, great diving and snorkelling opportunities, and laidback charm. The word Gili actually means “small island”, and so these islands have come to be known as “The Gilis” by travellers. The Gilis are Lombok’s most popular islands and are consistently rated as top SEA island destinations by travellers and travel publications.
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Photo by Laurens den Oudsten
An impressive array of sea life can be seen, including green and hawksbill turtles, morays, barracuda, reef sharks, occasionally leopard sharks and manta rays, and much more.
GIli Trawangan by Didik Hariadi
The islands provide ample opportunities for visitors to swim, relax, sunbathe, explore, snorkel or scuba dive with the many internationally accredited dive operators based in Lombok. Snorkelling is easy in the calm waters directly off the beaches, with plenty of colourful fish to see. At greater depths and at specific dive locations around the three islands, the pristine waters are home to an abundant variety of corals, aquatic life and thousands of species of tropical fish.
GIli Meno by Barbara Cahyadi
Visibility is very good and commonly in the 15-30 m range; and water temperatures average 23°C (73°F) to 29°C (84°F). Currents around the islands can be quite strong and drift diving is the norm. Many of the popular dive companies are owned and operated by westerners and PADI and SSI licensed dive operators, with professional standards of safety and environmental awareness, exist on all three islands. Each Gili has developed independently and at different paces, giving each a different “personality” or style, and catering to different types of holidaymakers and travellers. This means that travellers have a good choice, depending on their individual tastes and what type of island escape they prefer.
Gili Trawangan is the most developed and popular of the three, with the greatest range of facilities and activities; while Gili Air has a relaxed, laid-back style and is popular with couples and families. Gili Meno is the quietest of the three, perfect for really getting away from it all. Choose the island that suits you most, or it’s easy to combine an island-hopping holiday to sample the best of all three!
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Phone / Fax: +62 370 6123 521 | Mobile: +62 818 0549 4876 | Email: email@example.com
GILI ISLANDS FAST FACTS
Gili Trawangan by Didiek Hariadi
There are numerous fast boat services operating between Bali and the Gilis. In good weather, fast boats can make the crossing in around 80 minutes but in heavy seas the trip can take two hours or more. Make sure you choose a reputable company who care about passenger comfort and safety, rather than “pack them in and profit”. Check weather conditions before going – the Lombok Strait is one of the deepest bodies of water in the world and seas can get very rough, with waves up to 5 metres in bad weather. Refuse to board overloaded boats. It is also possible to fly to Lombok and transfer to the Gilis from the mainland. See “Getting to Lombok” and “Getting to the Gilis” sections for details. Electricity on all three Gilis is supplied by generators and blackouts are sometimes a problem. Many places have their own emergency generators but the smaller businesses may rely on candles and lanterns when the power goes out. Water is a scarce resource on the islands and fresh water is shipped from the mainland daily. A business on Gili T now supplies desalinated water and fresh water showers are becoming common. However, smaller hotels and home-stays may only
provide salt water showers. Use bottled water to rinse off. The tap water on all the islands is not suitable for drinking but bottled water is cheap and readily available. Internet is available on the Gilis at internet cafés and most larger hotels and restaurants. Connections can be intermittent and speeds are generally slow. ATM machines are available on Gili Trawangan and Gili Air. Credit cards are accepted at most dive shops and larger hotels and restaurants. Money changers are available on all the islands, although the rate is lower than on Lombok. Health services on the islands are limited. There is a 24-hour Clinic at Hotel Vila Ombak on Gili T, and small local clinics on Gili Meno and Air. Dive shop staff have emergency first aid training and basic medical supplies but for anything serious, get to the mainland as fast as possible. Weather is generally hotter on the islands than mainland Lombok. Make sure you drink plenty of water to stay hydrated and use sun protection, even on cloudy days. There is no motorised transport on any of the islands. Walk, ride a bicycle or ride in a cidomo (local horse cart). None of
the islands is very large, so walking is an easy option. Bicycles can be hired for between Rp 25,000 and Rp 50,000 per day, depending on the type and condition of the bike. Some hotels provide bikes free of charge for guests. Cidomo fares are now fixed by law and fares are displayed in the front of the cart. Generally, short distances will cost around Rp 40,000; a round-the-island tour costs Rp 125,000 on Gili T. Dress is casual on the islands and it is normal to see tourists walking around in swimsuits, sarongs and shorts. Remember that the islands’ residents are Muslim and nude or topless sunbathing is frowned upon. Please respect island sensibilities and keep clothes on! Mosquitoes can sometimes be a problem, especially during rainy season. DEET repellents are the best protection and local products such as “Autan” and “OFF!” are relatively cheap and readily available in the shops. The Gili Eco Trust (GET) is a non-profit organisation based on Gili T that works to protect and conserve the environment. GET activities include reef conservation, resource management, waste management and education programmes, to name a few. To date, the Eco Trust has installed 63 Bio Rock structures around the islands. The metal frame structures create artificial reefs using low voltage current to promote new coral growth and provide homes for schools of fish and reef creatures. The Eco Trust raises funds for its programmes through an Eco-tax of Rp 50,000 collected from divers on the islands. Clean-up days, to collect rubbish from the beach and sea, take place on the first Friday of every month on Gili T. Register at Gili T dive shops and join in the fun! To find out more about Eco-projects and to support GET programmes, visit: www.giliecotrust.com
LUXURIOUS VILLAS AND SINGLE SUITES Gili Trawangan, Lombok-NTB Indonesia P: 0370 6647066, M: 087864297487, F: 0370 6147741 E: firstname.lastname@example.org W: www.thetrawangan.com
GETTING TO THE GILIS
The Gilis are easily reached from Bali via the numerous fast boat services now operating between Bali and Gili Trawangan. Alternatively, you can fly to Lombok and travel across to the Gilis.
Fast Boats: With Lombok’s airport now based further away in central Lombok, the fast boat services are a popular option, providing fast and easy transfers between Bali to Gili Trawangan. The crossing between the islands can be treacherous in bad weather, so choose a reliable operator and avoid companies that practice “over loading” in busy times. Blue Water Express, operated by Blue Water Safaris, provides transfers between Bali and Gili Trawangan. BWS operates two boats, with 28 and 30 passenger capacities, departing from Serangan (near Benoa Harbour) at 8am and 10am, and from Padang Bai Harbour at 11.15am every day. Return transfer from Gili Trawangan is at 11am. Fares include air conditioned hotel transfers in Bali. Ph: +62 361 895 1111 / 0813 3841 8988. www.bluewater-express.com
FROM TELUK NARA AND TELUK KODEK: Teluk Nara is a large peaceful bay on the west coast, about 25 minutes’ drive north of Senggigi. Most of the dive companies and many businesses on the Gilis have their boats moored in the bay and transfer guests to the islands every day from Teluk Nara. Gili Cat, Blue Water Express and Island Getaway also operate fast boat services between Lombok and Bali from this harbour. It is possible to negotiate private boat trips (including fast speed boats) out to the islands with local boat owners here, thereby avoiding the hassles of Bangsal. At the northern end of the bay is Teluk Kodek, where Vila Ombak, The Beach House, ko ko mo and Scallywags have bases for transferring their guests by speedboat to the Gilis.
Gili Getaway is a comfortable fast boat departing from Benoa Harbour, Bali (only 20 mins from Kuta) daily at 8am. The crossing takes around 2 hours to Gili Trawangan and Teluk Kodek on Lombok. Ph Bali: (0361) 751570 / 726 523; or Bali: 0819 1673 3051; Gili T: 0878 6432 2515. www.island-getaway.com GiliBookings.com is an online booking service offering easy reservations with the leading fast boat operators between Bali and Lombok. Availability checks, schedules and e-ticketing, as well as accommodation options and more, are all available online from their website: www.gilibookings.com By Plane: Fly to Lombok and either stay on the mainland before making a trip out to the Gilis or travel to Senggigi (1 hour 15 minutes) to arrange transport to the Gilis. There are many different options, as described below. Tour companies and dive operators in Senggigi also provide transfers daily. HOTEL TRANSFERS: Many of the larger hotels on the islands now provide speedboat transfers for guests, as well as pick up services from the airport – enquire when you make your booking.
MENTIGI BAY: Also on the west coast, a few kilometres before Teluk Nara, Mentigi Bay is a base for Blue Water Cruises. The company offers relaxing day cruises around the Gilis onboard a beautiful traditional phinisi boat, with plenty of opportunities for swimming and snorkelling. Boats depart daily at 9am. There is a small café at the bay and a variety of fun water sport options available. Blue Water Cruises also operate regular cruises to Komodo Island and other islands to the east, as well as dive and cruise packages. Visit their website for details: www.bluewatercruises.com.
Be aware that public boats leave when there are enough passengers to warrant the trip, so you may have to wait for a while. Best times are between 8am and 4pm. If you don’t want to wait, it doesn’t cost very much to charter a boat, especially if you have a few people in your group. Don’t let anyone carry your bags or, if they offer to carry baggage, negotiate a price first. Ignore people who tell you that there are no return public transfers… there are; or that there is no water, mosquito repellent, etc., on the islands. All the essentials are readily available at shops on all three islands. Bangsal is a pretty area; it’s a shame some of the touts try to ruin it for everyone. If you get stuck at the harbour in the evening, there are some basic home-stays on the road from the beach. Arnel is a nice option with pretty rooms at reasonable prices. The attached Salero Minang restaurant serves delicious Minang meals and the friendly owners can help with everything from vehicle hire to travel information and laundry services. FROM SENGGIGI: You can charter local outrigger boats from the beachfront in Senggigi (in front of the Art Markets). The trip out to the islands takes around one and a half hours. The journey up the coast in the morning is very scenic, but you may get wet on the way back. Make sure you negotiate a price with the boatman first!
FROM BANGSAL HARBOUR: Catch a taxi or bemo to Bangsal Harbour, the small harbour on the north-west coast, about 30 minutes from Senggigi.
A good alternative is to check out the many dive centres on the main street in Senggigi who offer reasonable rates for transfers, usually including pick up from your hotel.
Public ferries (really just large outrigger boats) depart regularly to all three islands and charters are available, with prices depending on the number of passengers and your bargaining skills.
Arranging snorkelling and dive trips inclusive of island transfers is a good way to save time, money and hassles.
Unfortunately, the area is plagued by touts and scams, so ignore them and head directly to the ticket office on the beachfront. Public ferry and charter boat prices are posted clearly on the wall of the ticket office.
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The most well-known and popular of the three Gilis, Gili Trawangan is the largest island and the furthest from the mainland, but easily reached in less than an hour by local boat and only 10 minutes by speedboat from Lombok.
and Bali, together with singles, couples and families from all over the world.
The island itself is around 3km long and 2km wide, so walking is easy and you can cycle around the island in around 1 1/2 hours (but will need to get off and push Previously tagged “the party island” by the your bike through sandy sections on the Lonely Planet, Gili T (as it is affectionately west side). known) has moved on and up. This is the only Gili to rise significantly above sea level and the hill in the south Gone are the days when backpackers is a great lookout from which to enjoy flocked to the island for Rp 20,000 a the spectacular sunsets across the ocean night huts on the beach and Rp 5,000 to Bali; or in the mornings, the brilliant Bintang beers. Today, Gili T has a sleek sunrise over Gunung Rinjani on mainland sophisticated side that becomes more Lombok. evident every year. That’s not to say that the original charms that attracted tourists in the beginning are gone. The perfect white sand beaches, clear turquoise waters and laid-back island style are still there in buckets.
On the far south end of the hill are the remnants of old WWII Japanese gun emplacements and crumbling bunkers, but the hand-dug tunnels have been blocked up.
But the island has cast off its grungy origins and now combines the best of a tropical island paradise with a touch of chic and all the mod cons of a top holiday destination.
The main development on the island is on the east coast, particularly southeast in the area called “Sentral”, where the boats dock. The tracks inland are through coconut groves and pockets of development.
Gili T still hosts backpackers and budget travellers, but these days they are joined by expatriates and trendsetters from Java
Development runs all along the east coast with swish places rubbing shoulders with
the older bars and accommodations. The north coast is quieter and offers peaceful alternatives to the central area. Such is the appeal of the island, the south and west coasts are now dotted with small hotels, home-stays, private villas and a couple of larger resorts. This part of the island is the quietest and, although the beaches aren’t as nice as those on the east, the sunsets looking across to Bali are magical. Accommodation on Gili T ranges from basic home stays to luxury hotels and villas. The old style bungalows with woven bamboo walls and thatched roofs are slowly disappearing, to be replaced by simple cottages with western style bathrooms to suit the budget crowd. At the other end of the scale, boutique hotels and luxurious villas boast all the comforts of 5 star resorts, including designer furnishings, private swimming pools or Jacuzzis, WiFi internet, iPod docks, satellite TV and DVD. Restaurants rival Bali in quality, if not numbers. There are lounges and sophisticated bars, Internet cafés, movie “theatres” and beachside cafés galore. Most restaurants and bars are located along the east coast, although the north coast has some lovely low-key options. Dining choices range from the typical Indonesian nasi goreng to sushi; barbecued seafood on the beach to international fine dining; and everything between. There is a lively bar scene at night and the island has a rotating party roster, where some of the top places have licences to host a party on one night of the week (hence the “party island” reputation). These, and the full moon parties that take place on the beach during high season, are a big draw-card for the crowds of younger people who come to the island.
Photo by Blue Marlin Dive
Continued on Page 85
On the beach at the Jetty... your Gili T holiday begins and ends here! Clean and comfortable twin and double rooms with air conditioning, satellite television, in-room safes, fully stocked mini bar and private bathrooms with fresh hot water. Fresh water swimming pool and separate kiddies pool. Beachfront bar and restaurant with fantastic views serving delicious snacks and meals all day
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85 There is a good surf break on the south coast with a fast right-hander that really pumps in the right conditions. Local surfers will happily lead the way and rent you a board.
Continued from Page 83 For those who prefer quieter entertainment, there are sophisticated dining opportunities, particularly at places such as ko ko mo, Scallywags Resort, and on the beachfront at Hotel Vila Ombak. Cocos has an upbeat café scene during the day and Horizontal is the coolest place to chill out, day or night. The social options are virtually unlimited.
The best snorkelling on the island starts on the northern end of the east coast, where you can wade to the reef just offshore. The water is calm and there is a drift from north to south, making it easy to lie on the surface and float down the coral outcrops. Although much of the coral is damaged, there is still an abundant variety of tropical fish species to enjoy and patches of colourful coral.
These days, Gili T is a serious tourist destination with a good infrastructure and range of tourist facilities. Many of the larger restaurants, hotels and dive shops accept credit cards; there are ATM’s in front of Vila Ombak on the east coast and further north, near Horizontal, as well as on the west side at Ombak Sunset. Internet cafés with Wifi are readily available, as are money-changers, tour operators and a large number of fast boat services. There is a tennis club and fitness centre at Kelapa Villas and a medical centre at Vila Ombak with emergency facilities and a doctor on call.
Horses can be hired from The Stud on the southeast coast; sea kayaking is available at Karma Kayak on the north coast; yoga, meditation, massages and other health and beauty treatments are available at numerous places around the island. There is even shopping at the Pasar Seni (Art Markets) in Sentral and at any number of shops and kiosks all around the island, selling everything from pearls to sarongs to hammocks. Innuendo has some upmarket resort wear and Silver Dragon sells beautiful silver jewellery. But it is the beaches and the diving that remain the main draw card for Gili T. People flock here to sunbathe on white sand beaches and swim in clean blue waters, to dive the fabulous reefs and to bask in the hedonistic pleasures of a tropical paradise.
Cidomo (Horse Cart)
Further off shore, the island is famed for its vast gardens of coral and is one of the best dive spots in Lombok, which is why thousands of divers visit Gili T every year. It is also one of the safest and easiest places to learn to scuba dive, with warm water temperatures, calm seas and excellent visibility almost all year round. There is a very good selection of professional western-operated dive shops and a range of dive locations suitable for beginners through to thrill seekers. It’s been a slow evolution over the past 20 years for Gili Trawangan, but the island’s time has come. While the backpackers will no doubt lament, there’s a whole new scene unfolding on Gili T. A world-class tourism destination is emerging – without the traffic and pollution – set down on an idyllic tropical island.
The Beach House on Gili Trawangan is an innovative and contemporary resort set amidst tropical gardens, facing the sparkling turquoise waters of the Lombok Straits. Accommodation choices include a range of private villas, each with their own freshwater pools. Pool suites sharing a freshwater plunge pool, and 12 bungalows set in tropical gardens. The Beach House provides a range of facilities, including a beachfront freshwater resort pool and bar, and a beachside bar and restaurant serving international cuisine.
Phone: +62 370 6142 352 Fax: +62 370 6148 365 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
The resort has been built using cuttingedge environmentally-friendly technology, including a bio sewage system for waste water, waste management and recycling policies, fresh rain water collection tanks, solar power and low wattage devices, and NASA oxygen treatment technology for the swimming pool. The restaurant earns accolades for top quality cuisine served in the shady dining area or at pretty tables on the beachfront; especially romantic at night with fabulous sunsets and views across the ocean to Gili T and beyond. Stylish and contemporary rooms, attention to detail and personalised service make Mahamaya the top choice for honeymooners and those seeking luxe island escapes. Good mid-range options include Tropical Hideaways and Adeng-Adeng.
Gili Meno is the middle and the smallest of the three Gili Islands, with the lowest population and the least number of visitors. The island has not developed as quickly as Gili T or Gili Air and suffered unpopularity when, in the mid-90’s, The Lonely Planet wrote that the salt lake on the island created mosquito problems. This was untrue – mosquitoes are no more prevalent on Gili Meno than anywhere else – but the damage was done. Many would say that the bad publicity was a blessing in disguise. Today, Meno is probably the prettiest of the three Gilis, with the laid-back and uncomplicated charm of a true castaway tropical island. The water surrounding the island is clear turquoise and the beaches are covered in brilliant white sand, fringed with groves of coconut palms. Although investors are steadily buying up land, especially on the west coast facing Gili T, there is no major development on the island as yet. There are a few upmarket villas, but no large resorts. Fortunately, much of the investment taking place here is low-key and – perhaps recognising the pristine nature of the island – development tends to be along environmentally and ecologically sound concepts. For now, small hotels and basic beachside
bungalows provide accommodation for those seeking a peaceful place in the sun with un-crowded beaches, clean waters and peaceful nights under the star-filled skies. There is no rowdy bar scene and no noisy full moon parties here. Like all the Gilis, the best swimming beaches and most tourist facilities (including boat docking and departure) are along the east coast. Although there are small places dotted all around the island, many of the hotels and restaurants are located along the southeastern coast, with beautiful views over Gili Air and to Mt Rinjani in the east. It is possible to walk around the whole island on a small beachside track in around 90 minutes. Those seeking total tranquillity head to the north and west coasts, where more development has been quietly taking place over the past year. Mahamaya Boutique Resort, on the northwest coast, has the most luxurious accommodation on the island, with two exclusive beachfront villas and seven spacious Pool Suites set around a small swimming pool.
Tropical Hideaways, located a short stroll inland from the best beaches on the east coast, has comfortable and modern air conditioned rooms with western bathrooms. Set in shady gardens, Tropical Hideaways has one of the few swimming pools on the island and a good restaurant and bar, serving delicious and well-priced meals. The food here has gained a very good reputation on the island and the restaurant welcomes outside guests. Adeng-Adeng is another resort being developed along ecological lines on the north coast. Rooms and dining pavilions are set on unique islands surrounded by small canals in a pretty garden shaded by conifers. Accommodation includes air conditioning and lovely open-air bathrooms, while the garden café serves good cocktails and delicious freshly-prepared meals. Continued on Page 89
B o u t i q u e Re s o r t and R e s t a u ra n t
T u r t l e P o i n t G i l i M e n o | L o m b o k Bookings Tel | +62 (0)888 71 55 828 w w w . m a h a m a y a . c o
MAHAMAYA is ultimate paradise Tripadvisor “Number 1 Restaurant” and “Number 1 B&B” in the Gili Islands
Tatler UK: “Meno’s first smart boutique hideaway – a contemporary place with properly stylish rooms”
89 Continued from Page 87
Blue Marlin Dive, on the east coast, and Divine Divers on the northwest coast are the diving specialists for Gili Meno and offer diving courses and dives around all three of the Gilis. There is good snorkelling along the northwest coast, near Mahamaya and Divine Divers, and it is often possible to see Green, Leatherback and Hawksbill turtles. To swim with the turtles – these huge creatures that are so awkward and ungainly on land but move through their natural element with a breath-taking dignity and grace – is perhaps the most special underwater experience of all and a
major reason for visiting Gili Meno. There is also good snorkelling off the west coast near the now-defunct Bounty Resort. Swim out to where the old pontoon has sunk and become a home for many fish. Inland from the beaches, the island is quite dry with small homes scattered through the coconut groves. In the middle, toward the west coast, is a salt lake from which the local people still harvest salt on a small scale. It can be quite full in rainy season but dries up in the summer. Also inland, on the main track from the east coast, Gili Meno Bird Park has
some tropical birds and a few interesting animals. There is accommodation here and a great display of Beatles memorabilia collected by the owner. Casual beachfront cafés and bars serve Indonesian and popular western meals, with fresh fish and wood-fired pizzas being Gili Meno specialties. Some provide low-key entertainment in the evenings, more so in the high seasons, but visitors to Gili Meno largely come for romantic escapes and a chance to rejuvenate in the natural beauty of the island’s deserted beaches... which some argue are the best of all three Gilis.
Get away from it all…
Double Bungalows and Family Rooms A/C or Fan cooled, Hot Water, Comfortable Facilities Garden Restaurant with Tasty and Fresh Local & Western Cuisine Massage | Diving & Snorkelling | Cooking Courses | Sports Activities email@example.com | Tel +62 819 1596 1251 | +62 878 6482 1875 | www.gilimenobungalows.com
Tropical Hideaways Resort Bar & Restaurant Gili Meno Island
Resort Bar & Restaurant
STRESSED OUT......? NEED TO RELAX & CHILL ......? TROPICAL HIDEAWAYS PRIVATE RESORT Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: www.tropicalhideawaysresort.com
91 and it takes around 90 minutes to circle the whole island. The interior is crisscrossed with a maze of tracks that can get confusing, but all lead back to the beach.
There is a good surf break with a barrelling right hander known as “Play Gili” off the south coast that attracts crowds when it is pumping. It breaks over sharp coral, so check with local surfers about conditions and board hire. Diving opportunities abound and there is a good selection of reliable dive operators on the island, including Blue Marlin, Dream Divers, Oceans 5 and Manta Dive.
Gili Air is the island closest to the mainland and can be reached in around 20 minutes by local boat or five minutes by speedboat. Gili Air has the largest local population of the three islands, combining the charm of a tropical island with access to the people and culture that make Lombok unique. At present, Gili Air is a laid back island with a beachfront lined with simple cafés and bars made from bamboo and thatch. Its main appeal is its unspoilt nature, with few of the swanky restaurants and villas that have sprouted up on Gili T… and that’s why so many people love it. However, with some believing that Gili T is becoming over-developed, Gili Air is taking off as an alternative destination. Over the past couple of years, investors have been snapping up land on Gili Air and a number of up-market accommodations and restaurants have sprung up, with more to open in the next year. Most development is on the east coast and towards the south. Scallywags, who have another popular resort on Gili Trawangan, own Scallywags Organic Beach Club on the southern end of the east coast with excellent swimming in front and a friendly atmosphere. The restaurant has taken island dining to a new level with its excellent menu and guest facilities.
upmarket dining in the evening. Existing accommodation on the island is generally simple and until now, has mainly been the domain of the backpacker crowd; although the Gili Air Hotel on the north of the island has a variety of rooms and a swimming pool. Oceans 5, on the south coast, is a well-managed resort with above-average rooms, a good restaurant and swimming pool. Manta Dive has nice air-conditioned bungalows and a swimming pool. Many of the older places offer thatchroofed bungalows with basic amenities, close to white sand beaches and at relatively low prices. There is a good variety of small restaurants and beachside cafés on the island, with many offering traditional Indonesian dishes and basic western fare. The beach barbecues with freshly caught fish are particularly good. The bar scene can get pretty lively in the evenings and, during high season, the island kicks into high gear with Full Moon parties on the beach. Popular places include Chillout Bar and Zipp Bar.
Just to the south of Scallywags, the Australian owners of the successful Senggigi business, The Beach Club, opened The Beach Club Gili Air in mid2012 and offer eight charming bungalows, similar to their Senggigi accommodations, with large air conditioned bedrooms, private terraces and semi-open air bathrooms.
Activities include walking and cycling around the island, sun bathing, and swimming, snorkelling and diving in the crystal clear waters. Yoga and meditation, together with relaxing massages and body treatments, are available at H2O Yoga and Meditation.
The bar and restaurant serves aboveaverage meals and the beachfront here is a great place for lounging during the day, or
For exploring, there is a path running parallel to the beach
The calm waters and good visibility make Gili Air an ideal place to learn to dive or to upgrade diving skills. There are a number of popular dive sites that attract divers from the other Gilis, including Air Wall off the west coast, Hans Reef and Frogfish Point off the north coast. The water surrounding the island is of a colour hard to describe – a clear, translucent turquoise, made even more pure by the sparkling white sand beneath. Gili Air still boasts living reefs off much of its coast and there is wonderful snorkelling directly from the shore, particularly from the east and northeast beaches. The coral starts within metres of the beach, making it easily accessible to anyone – even novices who have never snorkelled before. Because the island is protected by reefs, there are few waves and the ocean is amazingly gentle, allowing snorkellers to drift in a dreamy daze above this panorama of aquatic shapes and colours. As is the case on all the Gilis, there are no cars or motorbikes allowed on the island, thus there is no pollution to spoil the clean air and the peaceful atmosphere. The views from all points of the island are stunning but the east coast, facing Lombok, is probably the most fantastic – looking back at the big island with its white beaches and green mountains dominated by the volcano, Mt Rinjani.
The Gili Islands
Of f l a ci Spe
Two Gili dives on our traditional wooden schooner For a limited time only we’re offering two dives in the waters around the Gili Islands using one of our traditional wooden pinisi. That means you get a great day’s diving, plus you experience the adventure of spending time on an historical sail boat. For more information on this special offer contact us at the numbers below.
Pinisi dive trips to Komodo Marine National Park. Awesome diving! Dragons! Adventure! If you’re in the Gili Islands you’re so close to Komodo Marine National Park. If you don’t go now you probably will never see one of the wonders of the world, the Komodo Dragon. Plus, if you’re a diver, the diving is truly awesome. And you get to explore all the little islands aboard a traditional wooden pinisi. C’mon, don’t miss out. You owe it to yourself. For bookings or more information, please phone us at: 0361 768 476 or 081 236 904 414 email@example.com www.bluewatercruises.com
â€œExotic Charm, Modern Comfortâ€?
Barefoot Luxury in the Gilis
Gili Trawangan, Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia P. +62 370 6141 575 | F. +62 370 6141 585 | M. +62 811 39 06 76 E. firstname.lastname@example.org | www.desaduniabeda.com
Issue 144 ~ Lombok's most comprehensive tourism paper and your guide to the best that the island has to offer!