4 minute read

Food & Drink

Seafood‘Tis the season for

Emma and John Gilchrist

Struggling to think of something different to serve as an apero or starter during the festive season? Not any more with these fabulous suggestions!

Even though he worked in one of the UK’s best seafood restaurants, Emma and John have tasted some of the finest oysters they have ever eaten since moving to France. Emma tells us, “People often assume oysters are slimy but they aren’t. They taste of the sea and are fresh, vibrant and beautiful. We serve them three at a time, one with a splash of fresh lemon, the second with red wine and shallots, and the final one with a drop of Tabasco. Sometimes we change things up and serve them crispy.” Here is her recipe. Crispy Oysters, Chorizo & Parsley Mayonnaise

(Serves 4) 12 Large fresh oysters, shucked 2 Eggs, beaten 100g Plain flour 100g Breadcrumbs Salt and pepper to taste 200ml Vegetable oil Lemon wedges 75g Pan fried Chorizo, mild or hot 100g Mayonnaise (without Dijon mustard) 1 tbs Parsley, chopped Mix the mayo and parsley with half the chorizo. Drain the shucked oysters in a colander. Add salt and pepper to the breadcrumbs. Dip the oysters in the flour, then the egg and, lastly, the breadcrumbs (coating thoroughly). Set aside to dry for at least 15 mins. Heat the vegetable oil in a frying pan until hot (chip frying hot). Without overcrowding the pan, fry the oysters until golden brown on both sides, turning them over carefully and frying for approximately one or two mins on each side. Remove them from the pan and place on kitchen towel,

sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Place a dollop of chorizo mayo in either an oyster shell or a dessert spoon. Place the oyster on top, sprinkle with crispy chorizo crumbs and serve with lemon wedges. (See page 30 of this issue for tips on shucking.)

Scallops and Linguini with a Fish Cream

(Serves 6) 120g Good quality linguine 400ml Water 150ml Crème Entière 1tsp Fumet de Poisson* 20g Chopped chives 6 Prepared scallops Splash of oil In a large pan whisk the Fumet in cold water to dissolve, and bring to the boil. Add the pasta and cook for five mins. Remove the linguini, retaining the liquid. Refresh the pasta in cold water and place on kitchen roll, pat dry. Add the cream to the water and simmer for five minutes until the liquid thickens slightly. Heat a frying pan until very hot. Add a splash of oil and cook the scallops on one side until caramelised. Add the linguini to the cream. Turn the scallops over and cook the other side. Place equal amounts of linguine in scallop shells or on small plates. Top with a scallop and sprinkle with chives. Squeeze over some lemon juice if you wish. *Fumet de Poisson is a powdered fish stock and is available from any French supermarket.

Poached Oyster version

Staying with the oyster theme, you can substitute the six scallops for six oysters. Follow the above but, instead of frying them, add the linguini to the cream and heat for three mins, then add the oysters and cook for a further 30 seconds. Top with lumpfish caviar and, if you like, a squeeze of lemon.

Bordeaux Blanc and Oysters

If you are enjoying oysters as a canapé then look no further than a glass or two of white fizz from a local vineyard. However, if you are having oysters as a starter, an indulgent white may well be a better marriage. Here are three from around Bordeaux.

Cuvée Clémence Blanc, EntreDeux-Mers is one of the many wines well-crafted from the Cheval Quancard Domaine. A blend of mainly Sauvignon, with a touch of Semillon and a hint of Muscadelle gives a blackcurrant leaf aroma with zippy grapefruit on the palate, and brioche and mild oak flavours. www.chevalquancard.com

The Sichel family, who produce Chateau Angludet in Margaux, craft the stunning Château Argadens in small quantities. A Sauvignon Semillon blend with pineapple and zingy lime freshness and a beautiful mineral and white flower finish. www.sichel.fr

Perfect with Emma’s Cooked Oysters and Chorizo is Château Le Coin. A 100% Sauvignon Gris wine made a stone’s throw from Saint Emilion. It has a rich, spicy palate and is balanced with generous acidity that blends to create a velvety finish. www.lechaiauquai.com

Emma and John Gilchrist have been running their gîte and cookery school, Les Caulins, in Lot-et-Garonne since March 2016. Emma has worked with great chefs in some of the best restaurants around the world and John, a former UK Sommelier of the Year and winner of the Mondavi award for the best wine list in the world, is an enthusiast for the smaller wine producers. www.lescaulins.com