The List's Eat & Drink 365

EAT& DRINK 365 edinburgh

A year-round guide to restaurants, diners, bars and cafés across the city

Welcome

Another year, another 365 days to eat and drink in and around Edinburgh. This is the second annual print edition of our handy guide to the food and drink scene of Scotland’s capital, once again filled with our curated TipLists giving you recommendations across different themes, styles of cuisine and areas of the city.

For this new edition, we’ve sifted through our choices, refreshed and updated the lists, compiled new ones, incorporated new openings and discoveries, and improved the layout. We strive to be independent and objective in our selections and assessments, using the experience and on-the-ground knowledge of our locally based Eat & Drink team to reflect the richness the city has to offer. Above all, it’s a guide designed to help you find answers to the practical issues that so often accompany your dining decisions: where can I grab a bite before the show? How about a great curry? What’s going to work for the kids? Is anywhere good open on a Monday or Tuesday night?

We’re again grateful to William Grant & Sons for their support of our approach to covering the scene, not just with Eat & Drink 365 (a Glasgow version was published last autumn) but also our regular food and drink coverage in the monthly List magazine and online. Gathered together, we’re proud to present the best of Edinburgh as a place to live, work, play and visit, eating and drinking as you go. It’s also a celebration of those who offer their creativity, hard work and hospitality to help make dining and drinking in the city so dynamic and exciting. Enjoy the guide, and enjoy where it takes you.

Jo Laidlaw & Donald Reid, Editors

CONTRIBUTORS

Project Editors

Jo Laidlaw & Donald Reid

Copy Editor & Producer

Paul McLean

Design & Layout

Seonaid Rafferty

TipLists Researched & Written By

Johanna Derry Hall, Jo Laidlaw, Paul McLean, Suzy Pope, Donald Reid, Ailsa Sheldon

Advertising

Jayne Atkinson, Lachlan McMaster

Proofreading

Jay Thundercliffe CEO

Sheri Friers

Supporting Partner Published by List Publishing Ltd

2 Roxburgh Place, Edinburgh www.list.co.uk email: eat@list.co.uk Eat & Drink 365 Edinburgh ISSN 2977-9189

© 2026 List Publishing Ltd

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing of List Publishing Ltd. This edition published May 2026 Printed by

Baern

Harajuku Kitchen

ABOUT THE GUIDE

What’s a TipList?

TipLists are our own suggestions of the places worth knowing about in different themes, categories and locations. Each TipList has five to eight recommendations, and some have a few other ideas included at the end in an ‘Also Try . . . ’ section.

How are the TipLists organised?

We’ve split them into three main sections. Enjoy The City has venues handily located close to some of the city’s cultural venues and landmarks, as well as other ways to experience Edinburgh through its food and drink. Explore The City has district-by-district coverage of the main eating and drinking zones around town. Finally, Food For Every Mood offers our top picks across a whole range of individual cuisines and food specialities. We round off with the best pubs, bars and drinking spots plus some great options if you’re heading to the fringes of town and beyond.

How do I navigate the guide?

The Contents on pages 4 and 5 will help you find your way around. If you want to check the districts we’ve used for the Explore The City section, see the Map on pages 10 and 11. If you’re looking for a particular venue, the Index at the back of the guide will help you find it.

What’s the deal with advertisers?

Without sponsors and advertisers the guide wouldn’t exist. We’re grateful for their support and the Neighbourhood Spotlights advertising feature on pages 50 to 55 has some great spots across different areas. That said, all our TipList selections are independently chosen by our team and no advertiser pays for a TipList pick or dictates how we cover them. This independent editorial approach is long-standing and important: we believe it makes our guides credible, reliable and genuinely useful.

Can I get the TipLists online?

You can find all our TipLists on your phone or screen at list.co.uk. Click on Eat & Drink to search individual places and get information including maps and links to venues’ own sites and socials.

Shared plates and sparkling moments with Maison Pommery & Associés. Discover a new way to savour your long summer evenings at Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh.

Friday-Sunday | West Gate Entrance rbge.org.uk/deck-bar

Introducing Eat & Drink 365 Edinburgh

The List’s Eat & Drink editor Donald Reid reviews Edinburgh’s recent culinary journey

Thirty years ago, eating out in Scotland’s capital city wasn’t what it is today. The influence of the ‘Auld Alliance’, Scotland’s centuries-old affiliation with France as a hedge against English domination, was seen as the ticket to culinary respectability. Global cuisines stayed in their lane, attempts at fusion created confusion and ambitious chefs headed south. Edinburgh knew its place.

Strangely, it was in the vestiges of the Auld Alliance that Edinburgh’s dining dynamic began to transform. Scottish-born chefs such as Martin Wishart and then Tom Kitchin served their tutelage under exacting French kitchen regimes. Returning to Edinburgh in the early 2000s, they brought Michelin star standards, followed by Michelin star awards, along with reminders that Scottish ingredients such as shellfish, game, beef and soft fruit, highly thought of overseas, could be better appreciated at home. At the same time, New Nordic cuisine was embracing local ingredients and encouraging less structured approaches to cooking and serving. Somehow, Copenhagen and Oslo felt closer to Edinburgh than Paris or even London.

As the shackles of haute cuisine loosened elsewhere around the globe, Scotland got involved. Chefs started returning not just with experience from London or France but also New York, San Francisco, Sydney, Hong Kong. Just as importantly, the route to success for local chefs didn’t always require time served overseas. Edinburgh had become a dining destination both for those working in the industry and for visitors. Equally surprisingly, locals embraced the idea too.

How else is it evidenced? These days it’s not just by Michelin stars but by the number of enticing venues that don’t aspire to such accolades. By cocktail bars appearing on the global radar. By the creative craft breweries operating out of the city. By the quality of sourdough bread and pastries being baked by numerous artisan bakeries. By seeing old industrial units morphing into food and drink spaces. By the diversity of global cuisines and influences being given energy and innovation through street food trucks and tiny side-street operations in different parts of the city. Above all, by a sense that Edinburgh is a place where ambitious new ventures can succeed, where quality will be noticed and appreciated, where forward-thinking restaurateurs support and encourage each other, and where diners know that good food and good times are on their doorstep. Really, you’d hardly recognise the place.

LEITH SHORE & AROUND WALK

ABBEYHILL & EASTER ROAD

Edinburgh Playhouse

Waverley Station

Queen’s Hall

Areas Of Edinburgh

Portobello Holyrood Park

@Kremabakehouse

Krema .bakehouse

www.kremabakehouse co uk/ info@kremabakehouse co uk

Distinctive Venues

Certain spots in this fair city just scream ‘Edinburgh’, whether that’s because of the views or the vintage vibes. In the city centre, in-the-know commuters head to West Register Street for a pre-train drink. This unassuming alley is home to two of Edinburgh’s most historic pubs, Café Royal and The Guildford Arms. Both are packed with original Victorian details like wood panelling, ornate ceilings and original tile murals; just as importantly, both know how to keep a decent pint. Other traditional bars include Halfway House, a tiny bar that sits midway up Fleshmarket Close’s killer steps (and so provides a handy breather on the way up to Cockburn Street). Or try The Bow Bar, resplendent in its whisky collection and utter refusal to bow to the Potter-themed nonsense that surrounds it.

Head for W Edinburgh hotel for views. Enjoy a sushifusion blowout at Sushisamba (try the afternoon tea for a twist on tradition) or speakeasy-cocktail vibes at rooftop bar Joao’s Place (both come with wraparound balconies). Nor’ Loft, the bar at the top of Market Street Hotel, also lays the city out before you and is particularly striking when you’re wrapped up in a blanket to enjoy the twinkly Christmas lights.

There’s plenty to look at inside The Johnnie Walker Experience, including their world-class Journey Of Flavour immersive tasting experience, but leave enough time to take in the views from 1820 Rooftop Bar with a cocktail too. Cold Town House’s terrace has both stunning castle views and a retractable glass roof for the days when the Scottish weather doesn’t play ball (which is most of the days). And if you want to reward a hike, Café Calton is worth the walk especially if the words ‘sunset’ and ‘spritz’ give you a warm glow.

Creating a quintessentially Scottish dining experience can often tread a fine line between tradition and touristfodder. You’re in safe hands with Howies, who’ve been working on that balance for over 30 years. In their Waterloo Place restaurant, at the foot of Calton Hill, you can enjoy that expertise in one of the city’s most striking Georgian dining rooms. Or how about dinner on a ship? Fingal is a floating hotel on a vessel that used to be owned by the Northern Lighthouse Board. It’s also home to The Lighthouse Restaurant which uses Scottish produce to create beautifully presented dishes in a truly unique venue. Their afternoon tea is also a special treat if you’re after a fancy day out.

From top: Joao’s Place, Café Calton, Cold Town House, The Lighthouse Restaurant

Summerhall & Around: Grab A Bite

THE DOG HOUSE

18–24 Clerk Street, thedoghouseedinburgh.co.uk

Quirky bar (they have their own pub ferrets, Flip and Flop) that’s popular with the student brigade. Vegan chippy pop-up The Happy Fish has been keeping appetites sated in recent times and it’s a cool spot for a pre-show pint or a £5 Spicy Marg.

KAMPONG AH LEE

28 Clerk Street, kampongahlee.co.uk

Kampong Ah Lee is a busy little place where you can grab flavour-packed Malaysian food. The chicken satay is drowning in sauce and spicy bowls of laksa warm the back of the throat. Order a cooling bottle of Tiger beer or BYOB. Fun, fast and casual.

KIM’S

MINI MEALS

5 Buccleuch Street, instagram.com/kimsminimeals

No bookings and no takeaway here; just show up, queue and eat some of the best bibimbap in town, served in sizzling stone bowls and topped with a raw egg. A family-style joint that makes you feel like you’re eating in someone’s living room.

MACAU KITCHEN

93 St Leonard’s Street, macaukitchen.uk

At Scotland’s only Macanese restaurant, explore dishes such as crisp coconut duck or sweet-sourspicy squid. Look out for regular evenings where chef Kei de Freitas is joined by a guest pro in the kitchen.

THE ROYAL DICK

1 Summerhall, theroyaldick.co.uk

In Summerhall’s courtyard, the quirky vet-school curiosities of this pub attract locals, resident workers and show-goers alike. Dick’s Scrannary dish up burgers and pizzas, with drinks from in-house brewer Barney’s Beer and distiller Pickering’s Gin.

TAPAS3

6–8 Howden Street, tapas3.co.uk

Tucked-away tapas bar doing classics like chorizo in red wine or more adventurous dishes like crisp tempura aubergine with sticky sugarcane treacle.

Also try . . . for daytime hunger pangs: sandwiches as big as your head at Alby’s, Med-inspired dishes at Lady & The Bear, or soups, toasties and great coffee at MF Coffee Shop in the Summerhall building

The Royal Dick

BONNIE & WILD

Street Food & Markets

Level 4, St James Quarter, bonnieandwildmarket.com

A dozen top vendors come together in this buzzy space including newest recruit Flùr, focusing on New York-style pizza, and unbelievable burgers from El Perro Negro. There’s a handful of outdoor trucks at the Little King Street exit of the complex too.

EDINBURGH FARMERS’ MARKET

Castle Terrace, every Saturday, 9am–2pm, instagram.com/edfarmersmarket

Delicious local produce, right under the shadow of Edinburgh Castle. Check the Insta feed for the week’s stallholders, but expect the likes of East Coast Organics, Company Bakery and Errington Cheese alongside food vendors like Levantine and Café St Honoré.

EDINBURGH STREET FOOD

Omni Centre, Leith Street, edinburgh-street-food.com

This indoor/outdoor street food hub works for every size of crowd with any kind of dietaries in all sorts of weather. The current line-up of vendors includes popular Razzo Pizza, piled high barbecue from Fred’s Backyard Barbecue and excellent Japanese street food from Harajuku.

LEITH MARKET

Dock Place, every Saturday, 10am–4pm, stockbridgemarket.com

A fine start or end point for a wander along the Water Of Leith. Local produce is available and there’s a vegan focus on the first Saturday of the month, with regular traders like Missy’s Vegan Cupcakes and Och Vegan.

THE PITT

20 West Shore Road, thepitt.co.uk

Sunny weekends are all about The Pitt, with a small but perfectly formed roster of street food traders. They’re working hard to build a community hub, so you’ll also find a sauna, spaces for kids and teens, and a weekly Saturday morning produce market.

STOCKBRIDGE MARKET

Saunders Street, every Sunday, 10am–4pm, stockbridgemarket.com

This buzzy market strikes a great balance of street food, produce and crafty bits. Whether you’re looking to fill your stomach or your larder, it’s always a wholesome afternoon out.

Also try . . . The Neighbourgood Market in Stockbridge from May to July with its band of street food kitchens, or Portobello Food Market, on the last Sunday of the month, with a top roster of traders

Flùr at Bonnie & Wild

PICTURE: CIAN MCKENZIE

Open Monday & Tuesday Night

THE BASEMENT BAR

10a–12a Broughton Street, basement-bar-edinburgh.co.uk

A seven-night-a-week spot to mix and match tacos while pondering the benefits of tequila over mezcal.

CHOP HOUSE

Arch 15, East Market Street, chophousesteak.co.uk

This buzzy restaurant takes pride in dry-ageing the best of Scottish beef. Lunchtime express menus and regular offers mean it’s not just for special occasions.

HOUSE OF GODS COCKTAIL LOUNGE

233 Cowgate, houseofgodshotel.com/bars

Want a decent cocktail on a Monday night? Start here, where the cocktail list is excellent and the vibes too.

PAZ TAQUERIA

64 Thistle Street, instagram.com/paz_tacos

Banging wee place open seven days. Food hits the high spots, with pairs of tacos and antojitos to share.

SKUA

49 St Stephen Street, skua.scot

Michelin-level small sharing plates and a fabulous wine list at this seductively dim basement restaurant.

THE TOLLHOUSE

50 Brandon Terrace, tollhouse.scot

Confident bistro-style food and their prix fixe menu is a real steal, running until 8.30pm on weeknights.

Also try . . . the always busy and always brilliant Little Capo; beat the crowds with an early week booking (page 69). Or if Monday has been more challenging than you’d like, a bowl of zeppole with a snowstorm of pecorino on top might be just the hug you need from Tipo (page 69)

Filmhouse & Around: Grab A Bite

CHAAKOO BOMBAY CAFÉ

117 Lothian Road, chaakoo.co.uk/chaakoo-edinburgh

Grilled Irani kebabs and around 20 tempting curries, or try their pre-theatre and ‘naanwich’ options.

DINE EDINBURGH

1st Floor, 10 Cambridge Street, dineedinburgh.co.uk

You’d be hard pushed to find a handier spot for pre or post-theatre/movie dining. Try the fixed price menu at lunch or pre-show.

FILMHOUSE BAR

88 Lothian Road, filmhouse.org.uk

Absolutely no excuses for arriving after the film’s kicked off at this place. A comfy café and bar, dishing up soups, fish and chips and more. Beef chilli is the star.

KONJ

15–17 Grindlay Street, konjcafe.com

Persian breakfasts with fried eggs, feta and walnuts or try sweet omelette flavoured with saffron. Dinner brings regional specialities and feasts front and centre.

TING THAI

55–57 Lothian Road, tingthai.co.uk

Vibrant Thai flavours shine in spicy coconut curries and umami-rich noodles, served in street food-style boxes.

TOPOLABAMBA

93 Lothian Road, topolabamba.com

Soft tacos, spicy carnitas and other Mexican favourites. The lunch deal offers three dishes plus salt and chilli fries or rice, or try the pre-theatre option.

Also try . . . classic sushi and ramen at Bentoya, fried chicken with craft beer at The Hanging Bat or the titular signature dish at Pho (page 26)

Skua

Konj

Every Sunday from 10am to 4pm, Stockbridge Market comes to life with a vibrant mix of food and craft stalls. Discover a rotating line-up of independent traders, each offering something unique, whether you’re browsing, tasting, or searching for the perfect find.

BONNIE GLOW

bonnieglowscentsofscotland.scot

Bonnie Glow hand-pours veganfriendly candles and wax melts. We take inspiration from authentic Scottish language, traditions, culture and humour. We are the antidote to souvenir shop Scotland!

BARK AND HARE

barkandhare.co.uk

Bark & Hare celebrate our pets with beautifully crafted accessories handmade in Edinburgh and infused with a love of Scotland. Thoughtfully designed to elevate their every-day or that special day.

CANNY MUSHROOMS cannymushrooms.com

Delicious, full-of-flavour mushrooms, perfectly preserved in cans. Try our shiitake, chilli, soy sauce or chestnut mushrooms, garlic, sage, and thyme. Good-togo, straight from the can. Whenever the need for mushrooms strikes!

PULP FRICTION

instagram.com/pulpfriction_ cocktails

Pulp Friction crafts cocktails and fresh juices using natural, seasonal ingredients. Pressing fruits and making syrups and purées inhouse, proudly building fresh and authentic tasting drinks. Available for markets and private events.

PLANET G

planetgfood.com

From MasterChef to your local market, chef Gemma creates seasonal dishes from scratch and delivers restaurant-quality catering for weddings and events wherever needed.

BONNIE FEAST

From the owners of Grassmarket, Leith and Stockbridge MarketsBonnie Feast showcases produce from hand-picked small Scottish businesses. Currently selling Edinburgh Butter, Kedar Milk, Isle of Mull Seaweed chutney.

Edinburgh Playhouse & Around: Grab A Bite

DOWN THE HATCH

13 Antigua Street, downthehatchdiner.com

There’s little chance of leaving hungry with the generous portion sizes at this Canadian diner. Huge bowls of poutine dripping with gravy and cheese curds are served alongside towering burgers and chicken wings. This is not impressyour-date territory: it’s going to get messy.

EDINBURGH STREET FOOD

Omni Centre, Leith Street, edinburgh-street-food.com

Great fun, whether you’re looking for a quick solo feed pre-show or a night with the gang. ESF caters for all: the ten current traders include Haldi’s reimagined Delhi street food, Chix buttermilk fried chicken fun and Razzo’s Neapolitanstyle pizzas. Order by app at the long, shared tables.

KA PAO

St James Quarter, ka-pao.com

Ka Pao’s small plates deliver vibrant South-east Asian flavours. Fried chicken and crisp pork belly are solid contenders for best dish, but hispi cabbage with cashew nut butter and adventurous curries also stake a claim.

LA SAL

22 Union Place, la-sal.co.uk

No-fuss Spanish restaurant for speedy pre-theatre needs. Tuck into tapas (meatballs, cured meats, calamari: you get the picture) and generous paellas (vegetarian, seafood and meat options). Wash it all down with a cheeky jug of sangria.

LITTLE PICARDY

18–22 Greenside Place, littlepicardy.co.uk

Not just close to the Playhouse: Little Picardy is in the building. This stylish spot gives pre-theatre crowds enticing small-plate options (roasted sesame cauliflower, tiger prawn crostini, sweet potato falafel), as well as cheese, charcuterie and vegan grazing boards. A theatre bar that actually works.

SIMPLY GREEK

8 Union Street, simplygreekedinburgh.com

This place isn’t afraid to wear its Greek credentials on its sleeve, with a menu of classics. Build a groaning table for a group or dine solo on a couple of skewers with a generous Greek salad. Extra points for an all-Greek wine list.

Also try . . . burgers and good beers at Jeremiah’s Taproom, Turkish grill favourites at Ada (page 72) or pre/ post-show dining and lubrication at The Alchemist

Edinburgh Street Food

Ka Pao

DR HANNIBAL LECTER

WILL SEE YOU NOW...

The world’s best all-male comedy drag ballet

King’s Theatre & Around: Grab A Drink

BENNETS BAR

8 Leven Street, kilderkingroup.co.uk/bennets

As the King’s emerges from a massive refurb, this pub next door still matches it for historic ambience, with its stained glass, cask ales and solid choice of whiskies.

THE BLACKBIRD

37–39 Leven Street, theblackbirdedinburgh.co.uk

Easy-to-like independent bar with tempting cocktails, a spot of food and a surprisingly sizeable beer garden.

CLOISTERS BAR

26 Brougham Street, cloistersbar.com

One of the city’s proper real-ale locations, with up to ten cask choices, ten on keg and a bunch of drams.

LAURI

105 Lauriston Place, instagram.com/lauri_edinburgh

Local breweries are on tap here alongside new-wave Scottish ciders and natural wines.

A WEE TASTE

36 Leven Street, aweetaste.co.uk

Ideal for a quiet drink before a show. Grazing boards of local cheese and meats sit alongside pinchos-style bites.

THE WILDCAT

11–13 Tarvit Street, thewildcatbar.com

This cocktail bar has speakeasy secrecy even though it’s right beside the King’s. Classic cocktails are served with finesse.

Also try . . . The Belfry (page 84) if you’re a whisky explorer, new arrival Seamus’s where old-man vibes target a youthful audience, and Margot (page 33) for on-trend wines and small plates

Waverley Station & Around: Coffee & Quick Bites

CAPPUCCINO EDINBURGH

25 Jeffrey Street, instagram.com/cappuccinoedinburgh

Open daily from 8am, this coffee shop has lots of nooks and corners. Guest roasts keep it interesting and cakes and pastries very much hit the spot.

FRUITMARKET CAFÉ

45 Market Street, fruitmarket.co.uk/cafe

This stylish gallery café couldn’t be closer to the train station. Breakfast handily runs until noon and lunches go beyond the run of the mill.

THE MILKMAN

7 & 52 Cockburn Street, themilkman.coffee

These guys know their beans and prioritise independent roasters. Open from 8am.

ROOM & RUMOURS COFFEE

25 East Market Street, instagram.com/roomrumourscoffee

They do a mean cinnamon roll here and staff are nearly as lovely as the fluffy doughnuts. Open from 8am.

SNAX CAFÉ

15 West Register Street (also 118 Buccleuch Street), snaxcafe.com

An Edinburgh institution where hangovers go to die. It’s all good but breakfasts are the bomb.

TEMPTING TATTIE

18 Jeffrey Street, instagram.com/tempting_tattie

The last old-style jacket shop in town. Innovative fillings, but true tattie-heads knows cheesy beans is king.

Also try . . . Mimi’s Bakehouse at the City Art Centre for all-day brunch, Loudons for breakfast and lunch, or, if you just want to grab a coffee, Artisan Roast has a wee shed at Little King Street

The Wildcat

Fruitmarket Café

Tram Crawl: Eat & Drink By Tram

There’s plenty of good eating and drinking to be found around Edinburgh’s tram line and it turns out that travelling in a straight line makes for a fun way to explore some new spots. Patina (Edinburgh Park Central) is an airy bakery, working hard to serve the office workers around it as well as the burgeoning communities in the west of the city. From there, it’s mostly suburban until you hit Haymarket: tap off here for casual drinks at Old Pal or explore the craft beers at The Wee Vault (page 80). If it’s lunchtime, don’t ignore Panificio’s unassuming shop front: their huge, fresh focaccia sandwiches are both delicious and good value.

Jump back on the tram and use the many traffic-light pauses on Princes Street to indulge in a spot of peoplewatching, before getting off at St Andrew Square. A short walk brings you to The Stand: if you’re seeing a show, Khao Boi will see you right with south-east Asian street food. Walk down Dublin Street to locals’ local The Magnum for pre-drinks or head to late-night spot Nightcap after.

Staying on until Picardy Place means you’ve got all of Broughton Street ahead of you (see page 40). Stop off at List team favourite The Keller Taproom for a German pint and a pretzel in a whimsical basement bar, or head to Taisteal for high-end dining that combines Scottish produce with ingredients sourced from around the world and a steal of a midweek early set menu.

Any stop on Leith Walk takes you somewhere interesting to eat. Get off at McDonald Road for wee bistro The Walnut, which has earned its place in an ever-changing neighbourhood, or enjoy Miami-style décor and excellent tacos at Bodega. Walk a couple of blocks to La Casa for casual tapas or Origano which is that rare beast: a cosy, comfy pizza joint where you’ll want to linger. There aren’t that many true sports bars in Edinburgh, but the Foot Of The Walk stop brings you to Dukes for wings and every sport imaginable, or keep walking to Nauticus for craft cocktails and good craic. Krema Bakehouse is also close by if you need a sweet treat.

You’re near the end of the line now. Either get off at Ocean Terminal for a slap-up supper at hot new opening Dogstar (page 48), or stay on until Newhaven for a handful of relatively hidden away spots. Dreadnought is close by for a final pint, Porto & Fi is an excellent neighbourhood bistro that specialises in creative breakfasts, and Norah (page 48) is a gorgeous café/restaurant that’s worth the trip for the sausage, egg and chips alone.

BABA

City Centre: Restaurants

130 George Street, baba.restaurant

Great for big groups. There are mezze plates you can’t stop picking at or feasting options from the grill, like seared sea bream dripping with flavour. Dishes are laden with spices from the Levant and can be accompanied with tasty craft cocktails.

CAFÉ ST HONORÉ

34 North West Thistle Street Lane, cafesthonore.com

Squint and you’re in Paris: white tablecloths, dark wood, candles and a strong wine list. Despite this approach, chef Neil Forbes uses only the best Scottish produce on his menus. The à la carte changes daily and the ‘café classics’ menu is always excellent.

KA PAO

St James Quarter, ka-pao.com

Whether perched at the bar or tucked into a booth, Ka Pao feels like somewhere you can stay all night. Experimental small dishes are inspired by the flavours of south-east Asia merging with Scotland’s larder.

NOTO

47a Thistle Street, notoedinburgh.co.uk

Noto’s mission statement is ‘we make delicious food’ and it’s true. The sharing plate combinations are eclectic, global and playful, inspired by chef Stuart Ralston’s time in New York. Dishes include North Sea crab with cultured koji butter.

ROSA’S THAI

43 Frederick Street, rosasthai.com

A relaxed and welcoming new outpost of the popular London chain. Great for groups with plenty of space. Start with a sharing platter, then tuck in to generous bowls of panang curry and sour som tum papaya salad.

THE SPENCE

Gleneagles Townhouse, 39 St Andrew Square, gleneagles.com/townhouse

A truly gorgeous venue, with pink marble columns, an intricate cupola and an art deco-style bar. Prices are on the steep side, but quality ingredients and presentation make it feel like a treat.

Also try . . . one of the more casual venues in the next TipList (page 26), or those on the Royal Mile (page 29) which also fall within the city centre. Other central restaurants are covered elsewhere, including Thai spot Dusit (Curry, page 60), The Spanish Butcher (Sunday Roasts, page 78) and Italian-inspired Contini George Street (page 69)

Noto

Baba

City Centre: Casual Eating

PHO

St James Quarter, phocafe.co.uk

This Vietnamese chain delivers the goods. Signature pho is deeply savoury and warmly generous, while packed summer rolls are fresh and vibrant. Well catered-for dietary requirements, reasonable prices and brisk service make it a great option for a solo lunch or team catch-up.

ROTI KING

8 South St Andrew Street, rotiking.com

Despite being a chain, Roti King brings some funkiness to town. Malaysian and Singaporean street-food staples are served against an industrial backdrop that looks like the set of a dystopian musical. Roti canai (roti dipped in a thick curry sauce) is the highlight, but murtabak (stuffed roti) and beef rendang are also solid choices

THE SCOTTISH CAFÉ & RESTAURANT

National Galleries Of Scotland, The Mound, contini.com/scottish-cafe-and-restaurant

Based in the National Gallery, this big, bright space has a large outdoor terrace overlooking Princes Street Gardens and the Scott Monument. On the same level, you can dander through to ‘The Monarch Of The Glen’ after a lunch of warming Cullen skink, salmon fillet and potato scone or simple-butdelicious fish and chips.

TACO LIBRE

3 Shandwick Place, ordertacolibre.com

Mexican-owned and run, the tacos are hot, fast and authentic at this gloriously kitsch technicolour restaurant. Order the fish baja tacos, guacamole, loaded sweetcorn, sopes with refried beans and plenty of napkins. The Margaritas are outstanding, too. Cash only.

TANI MODI

103 Hanover Street, tanimodi.co.uk

Always keeping up with the latest brunch trends, sticky green matcha sauce can now accompany the ever-popular pillowy pancakes at Tani Modi. If savoury is more your style, full breakfasts are hard to beat and come in big portions with oozy eggs.

URBAN ANGEL

121 Hanover Street, urban-angel.co.uk

Seasonal, local, brunchy-lunchy; it sounds simple but this atmospheric café always adds up to so much more than the sum of its parts. It’s cavernous inside, so don’t be put off by a queue (although competition for outdoor tables is fierce). Try the chorizo skillet.

Also try . . . Edinburgh Street Food (page 15) for plenty of choice and no reservations needed, or Mussel Inn for, you guessed it, mussels and chips. For a quick snack close to Waverley Station, try page 21.

Taco Libre

City Centre: Bars

THE ABBOTSFORD

3–5 Rose Street, theabbotsford.com

One of Edinburgh’s best-preserved Edwardian interiors, with its hefty mahogany island bar. Offering a good spread of ales and lagers on cask and keg from across the UK, it’s a decent escape for a pint in the busiest part of town.

THE BOW BAR

80 West Bow, thebowbar.co.uk

Hip joints come and go, but The Bow Bar endures. You’ll find nothing trend-led here: just a well-kept cellar, a huge array of whiskies and some Jarvis Pickle pies (unless the ‘nae pies left’ sign is showing). It’s a place you’ll want to linger.

THE BURROW

19 Blackfriars Street, theburrowbar.com

A decent Negroni for twelve quid only a stone’s throw from the Royal Mile makes The Burrow worth one drink. The rest of its well-considered cocktail menu, the art deco styling and bluesy soundtrack make it worth a second. Feels like a fantastic secret.

COLD TOWN HOUSE

4 Grassmarket, coldtownhouse.co.uk

Edinburgh Gin Distillery Bar

Perched above Grassmarket, the roof terrace here offers cocktails, icy cold beer, hot pizza and loaded fries, with views of the castle. Incredibly popular when the sun shines (and with a new retractable roof for when it doesn’t), this is one to book ahead.

EDINBURGH GIN DISTILLERY BAR

Arch 16, East Market Street, edinburghgin.com/distillery-bar

A slick, bright bar (with a rooftop in summer) right on the back doorstep of Waverley Station. There’s a strong cocktail list but it’s all about the Martini here: have it made to your own spec or try one of their many serves.

LADY LIBERTINE

25 West Register Street, ladylibertine.co.uk

Pulls off the near-impossible feat of being a place for every occasion without ever being bland or boring. The upstairs bar is perfect for a booth-based lunchtime chat, while downstairs comes alive after dark. The cocktails are banging either way.

Also try . . . Le Bistrot in the French Institute for a cheeky glass of wine, or The Devil’s Advocate (page 29) for 300 whiskies and its outdoor terrace

The Royal Mile & Around

THE

BLACK GRAPE

240 Canongate, theblackgrape.co.uk

Sleek and sophisticated, this wine bar is where Scottish produce like sea trout and wild mushrooms is crafted into a delectable selection of sharing dishes. The wine list is varied and delightfully affordable, and their cocktails are worth talking about too.

CANNONBALL RESTAURANT & BAR

356 Castlehill, contini.com/cannonball

Inside a former schoolhouse at the top of the Royal Mile, big-ticket Scottish produce such as haggis or venison is handled with creative flair and an eye to detail. It all makes for satisfying seasonal dining with well-drilled and friendly staff.

THE DEVIL’S ADVOCATE

9 Advocate’s Close, devilsadvocateedinburgh.co.uk

Down an atmospheric close, the vast whisky collection at this establishment gleams amber and tawny behind a huge steel bar. Food is classic Scottish done well and a covered outdoor terrace has heaters for an al fresco dram, even on a dreich Edinburgh night.

PIGGS

276 Canongate, piggswinebar.co.uk

Piggs offers an excellent selection of wine and traditional tapas dishes to share. Charcuterie boards of serrano ham, black pudding and manchego cheese are piled high and a sausage, eggs and chips dish is sure to fill you up.

SANTU COFFEE BAR

126 Canongate, santucoffee.com

Super-fresh brews in an achingly cool café. Beans are from Brazil, there’s bossa nova on the record player and the coffee machine is sunshine-yellow, adding a touch of exotic colour to the Canongate.

WEDGWOOD THE RESTAURANT

267 Canongate, wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk

A haven of fine but unfussy dining. Chef Paul Wedgwood’s love of foraging can be seen in the seasonal menu of dishes like pigeon pastrami with sweet cicely.

Also try . . . classy seafood at White Horse (page 77), good-value dining at The Outsider (page 72) and drinks with a difference at quirky venues House Of Gods (page 16) and Sköll & Hati

The Devil’s Advocate

Edinburgh University & Around: Places To Eat

The area spreading out from Edinburgh Uni’s Teviot/Potterrow/ George Square campus thrums with life, particularly during Fringe season in August. So whether you’re a ravenous student or a hangry festivalgoer, those rumbling tummies can be silenced. Get coffee and cardamom buns at Söderberg Pavilion at the heart of Quartermile, where the Swedish-themed baker also serves waffles and baked eggs for brunch, then excellent sourdough pizzas at night. At the other end of the imposing Edinburgh Futures Institute, Canopy Kitchen & Courtyard is a spacious all-day dining haven overlooking leafy Meadows Walk.

Close by, Indian stalwart Khushi’s dishes up classics and regional dishes in a smart new home, while Civerinos Slice (page 73) inspired by New York’s slice joints, usually has around 12 different pizzas on the pass, most available by generous slice or pie. At Union Of Genius it’s always soup season, with multiple comforting combos every day, plus daytime sandwiches, bakes, salads and chillis to warm your cockles. Round the corner in Bristo Place, newbie Uncle Tiger dishes up a rotating Asian street food menu that changes focus every six weeks. Close by on Lothian Street, The Gilded Saloon has proved a hit with regular comedy downstairs (from the Gilded Balloon team), cleverly tweaked pub classics upstairs and outdoor seating galore in summer. Next door, Antojitos Cantina (page 74) have set up shop in Paradise Palms, delivering adventurous plant-based Mexican dishes for vegan diners.

Stroll over to Drummond Street for fast-cooked Indian street food at Tuk Tuk Indian Street Food (page 66) or go Nepalese at Solti where highlights include Himalayan specialities like tangy Hamali hot pot. Weave back towards Teviot, passing Lebanese-style mezze dining at Beirut on Nicolson Square, generously filled signature sourdough focaccia at Fettle and a hit of Szechuan heat at big and buzzing San Chuan. Further down Potterrow, Umi does fresh sushi, tempura and beautiful bowls of ramen or pop into Sen on nearby West Nicolson Street for fine Vietnamese cooking, mainly from Nam Dinh province (great vegan/vegetarian menu too).

Café-cum-Indian restaurant 10 To 10 In Delhi on Nicolson Street does perfectly spiced dopiazas and lamb curries and is one of the best value lunch spots in the area, while Soul Vegan (page 74) in West Richmond Street delivers a streetfood slanted vegan Malaysian menu that leans towards the comforting. Just a little further south, Kalpna has been a friendly destination for the city’s vegetarians since 1975 and remains a reliable spot for a well-priced south Indian feast.

From top: Khushi’s, Antojitos Cantina, Uncle Tiger

PICTURE: DANIELLE BAKKES

ARGILE

Southside: Restaurants

21 Argyle Place, argilerestaurant.co.uk

Jack Montgomery has created a bit of a culinary hotspot with his nine-seater chef’s table. A seasonal multi-course menu is the only option but commit to it and you’ll witness the creation of, and then consume, thought-provoking dishes, underpinned by French technique.

LEFTFIELD

12 Barclay Terrace, leftfieldedinburgh.co.uk

The kind of neighbourhood restaurant everyone wants in their ’hood. Perch at the bar or take in calming views from the modest main room. Chef Phil White’s speciality is seafood but you can equally be charmed by plates centred on roast cauliflower or venison.

NÀDAIR

15 Roseneath Street, restaurantnadair.com

A small, calm and minimal restaurant, with a fondness for local and foraged ingredients. Wooden cutlery and tree-slice placemats add an earthy feel: ‘nàdair’ is Gaelic for nature. A five-course set menu in the evening, with shorter lunch menu.

THE RABBIT HOLE

11 Roseneath Street, therabbitholerestaurant.com

Buzzy neighbourhood brasserie with an eclectic clientele of students, family groups and curious visitors. The Frenchinspired menu with seasonal Scottish produce turns out classic steak frîtes and confits along with fresh salads and fish.

TEMPO PERSO

208 Bruntsfield Place, tempoperso.it

Stylish décor and towering ceilings give this popular Italian a smart feel. While the menu doesn’t stray far from the classics, each dish is done well, with rich sauces that have simmered for hours. There’s an extensive wine list to explore too.

THREE BIRDS RESTAURANT

3–5 Viewforth, threebirds.co.uk

Three Birds belies its compact size with a multi-faceted menu. Brunch, a set-priced lunch deal and dinner options are complemented by varied sides, kids’ picks and blackboard specials. Good vegan options and most dishes are gluten-free.

Also try . . . Holy Corner’s Fin & Grape (page 77) for classy fish dishes, Japanese delight Harajuku Kitchen (page 71), Hendersons (page 74) for classic vegetarian and 12-seater Condita (page 65) for top-end dining

Leftfield

The Rabbit Hole

Southside: Casual Eating

If you’re trying to kick a caffeine habit, don’t wander the streets of Edinburgh’s Southside. Cafés and coffee shops are winking at you from almost every corner and the blocks in between. Some keep it short and focused such as Modern Standard Coffee or Artisan Roast in Bruntsfield. Others add in a wider selection of pastries and bites, like Kate’s on Causewayside with its seasonal homemade cakes and scones, clean-lined Argyle Place in Marchmont, or 181 Delicatessen in Bruntsfield which hides a handful of tables at the back behind groaning gourmet shelves.

There’s a wider range of breakfasts, brunches and lunches at the branch of Edinburgh Larder at the top of Morningside Road, as well as at Confelicity on Bruntsfield Place, a chef-run artisan bakery specialising in gluten-free loaves and a full daytime menu catering to gluten intolerances. Various neighbouring spots in Bruntsfield Place bridge the daytime to early evening divide, including a branch of Spanish café-bar Piggs (page 29) and long-standing Café Grande with its classic, lived-in setting, all-round menu and daily 9am–9pm opening.

On the edge of leafy Bruntsfield Links, lovely Margot, younger sister of next-door Leftfield restaurant, is a chilled café by day and sophisticated wine bar serving small plates by night. Also enjoying Meadows views from the foot of Argyle Place is 2026 arrival Starter Culture, where sharing cheese and meat platters with some select wines are the order of a long, lingering evening.

There is more cheese and wine at the foot of Morningside Road. IJ Mellis Cheese Lounge often opens for a few hours into the early evening in a room at the back of the esteemed cheesemonger, while Newington’s Piccalilli on Grange Loan does grazing platters to nibble on with wines, beers and ciders by the glass.

Along with the more formal Southside restaurants on page 32, singular spots to discover in Marchmont include Pomelo on Sciennes Road, a contemporary Chinese diner masquerading as a funky wine bar, serving rich, tingling and filling pan-Asian food at sharing tables. Tucked away on Strathearn Road is Mara’s Picklery, which also squeezes a few tables into its small space. It serves lunchtime sourdough toasties or larger dinner plates featuring their own preserved, fermented and pickled ingredients, plus various homemade sodas and shrubs.

Pomelo

Confelicity

Restaurant & bar

mezze, charcoal grill & cocktails

130 george street follow babaedinburgh

The West End & Around: Places To Eat & Drink

The West End starts at the junction of Princes Street and Lothian Road beneath the lovingly restored Binns Clock, set on the corner of the old department store that’s now the flagship home to Johnnie Walker whisky. Retail and tours are available but the showstopping bar to check out is on the top floor (page 85). Alternatively, head beneath ground to fun-loving cocktail bar Encore across the road, or wine bar Le Di-vin, strikingly set in a converted Polish chapel nearby on Randolph Place.

Start to escape the city centre bustle with a seafood treat at Dulse, or something simpler from the cicchetti menu at The West Room with a glass of wine. Next door, Cairngorm Coffee on the sunny corner of Melville Place is the spot for locally roasted coffee brews and a sweet treat.

Stroll along cobbled William Street for a convivial drink at Teuchters Bar & Bunker, where they also serve some solid pub grub including Cullen skink in a mug. If that’s a bit couthie for your tastes, The Voyage Of Buck and The Green Room across the way do a slightly more cosmopolitan line in drinks and food. A direct route to Haymarket Station from here takes you past The Palmerston, the standout dining destination in this patch (page 72). Old Pal, despite being quite new, lives up to its name with a reliable offer of croque monsieur at lunch, late-afternoon aperitif, tasty dinner plates or a nightcap after dark.

Effect a shimmy onto nearby Morrison Street, which runs from the EICC to Haymarket, and another avenue of eating and drinking options opens up. Milk’s little room of calm is a great spot for coffee, breakfast or bakes, while the brunch at stylish Nishiki also stands out (page 59), with tip-top sahsimi, temaki and noodles served into the evening. Chizuru Tei also offers sushi and, with BYOB, can prove a bit of a bargain. Nok’s, from the folk behind Nok’s Kitchen in Stockbridge, is a surprisingly spacious restaurant with a fun bar adorned in colourful kitsch, serving a pan-Asian menu of stir-fries, pad thai, tempura and specials. Widening the global vibe, Fava Greek Kitchen does an extensive selection of mezze if you want to dip and share, including good veggie options, as well as wraps and great-value gyros.

Finally, for a coffee or well-crafted snack on your way in or out of Haymarket Station, family-run Nomad Café just opposite or the branch of Twelve Triangles just a short way up Dalry Road will see you right.

Dulse

Stockbridge: Places to Eat

CATA

30 North West Circus Place, cataedinburgh.co.uk

The latest venture from longstanding Edinburgh restaurateur Iggy Campos is a cool, contemporary space with a menu focused around Spanish wine, tapas and pintxos. Cheese and charcuterie boards are generous enough for a long evening of picking.

COWAN & SONS

33 Raeburn Place, cowanandsons.com

Breakfast and brunch staples are served with care at this busy spot. Gooey cheese toasties come with the fruity tang of homemade chutneys and there’s no way you’ll leave hungry after the full breakfast. Cinnamon buns are particularly good.

THE PASTRY SECTION

86 Raeburn Place, pastrysection.com

It’s nearly impossible to walk past the window here without salivating at the cakes on display. Cupcakes are excellent but you can’t go wrong with anything topped with the lightest, fluffiest Italian meringue, especially the rich chocolate brownie.

PURSLANE

33a St Stephen Street, purslanerestaurant.co.uk

Savour a five or seven-course tasting menu from the very capable hands of chef and owner Paul Gunning.

The menu changes seasonally but is always an ode to Scottish produce and fine French technique. Lunch is à la carte.

SOTTO

28 Deanhaugh Street, sottoedinburgh.com

The bargain Negronis might encourage you in, but the food is just as worthy at this trendy trattoria, where dishes have been finely tuned until faultless. Space books up fast, but the communal table is kept for walk-ins.

STOCKBRIDGE EATING HOUSE

7 St Stephen Street, stockbridgeeatinghouse.co.uk

With the building still bearing its recognisable Bells Diner signage, Stockbridge Eating House can feel like something of a local secret. Simplicity is the watchword with vast sharing dishes like entire roast chicken or John Dory served at ramshackle communal tables.

Also try . . . one of Stockbridge’s handful of finer dining establishments (page 65). Alternatively, find value for money at basement Venezuelan restaurant Sabor Criollo, Michelin-level small plates at Skua’s dark and dramatic basement space (page 16) or stop by Mootz General Store for a massive sandwich that will fuel you for the entire day

Sotto

Stockbridge: Bars

THE ANTIQUARY

72–78 St Stephen Street, theantiquarybar.co.uk

There are weekly folk-music nights, the food is comforting, real ales and craft pints are on tap, and the maze of rooms give The Antiquary an inviting atmosphere. Great Sunday roast too.

THE CAPTAIN DARLING

16–18 Hamilton Place, thecaptaindarling.com

The good Captain has brought back the prawn cocktail, shepherd’s pie and steak frîtes to our streets, alongside Sunday roasts. There’s also a decent wine list and plenty of seats at the bar.

CRYBABY

4–6 Dean Street, crybabybar.com

This dark, neon-lit spot promises good food, strong drinks and loose morals. Cocktails are king; if that’s not your bag, there’s a handful of draught beers, one of each colour of wine or get fingerlickin’ with about ten chicken wing iterations.

THE LAST WORD

44 St Stephen Street, lastwordsaloon.com Moody subterranean saloon with flickering candlelight

creating a snug vibe. With a fine list of single malts, blends and world whiskies, as well as flights and a strong cocktail showing, it’s perfect for a nightcap.

ST VINCENT BAR

11 St Vincent Street

The Vinnie is old-school Edinburgh pub personified, with its dark-wood interior and button-back banquettes. There’s a wee outdoor patio too. And did we mention they love pups here? Their Dog Wall is covered in framed portraits of four-legged regulars.

THE STOCKBRIDGE TAP

2–6 Raeburn Place, instagram.com/thestockbridgetap

Following a major revamp in spring 2026, The Tap now boasts outdoor seating and a classy blue exterior. Inside, it’s deep burgundy walls, an expanded bar area and a succinct menu (try the steak frîtes baguette with peppercorn sauce) helpfully printed on their coasters.

Also try . . . upstairs-downstairs eccentricity at St Bernard’s Bar, comfort classics and topping up the tan at The Raeburn (page 78) and atmosphere aplenty at cute-as-a-button Kay’s Bar

Canonmills & Inverleith: Places To Eat & Drink

These suburbs are home to the gorgeous green lung of the Royal Botanic Garden and the wildlife corridor of the Water Of Leith. So while you’re getting your nature fix, here’s where to get fed and watered as you wander. Starting from the north Edinburgh thoroughfare of Ferry Road, the Goldenacre corner site of the Herringbone mini-chain (page 62) is a reliable favourite for all-day dining or just a glass of wine. For something more casual, try Pablo Eggs-Go-Bao: quirky name, quirky food and the bao bun/breakfast fusion you probably didn’t know you needed. Next up, enter the Royal Botanic Garden for three different options. The Terrace Café offers killer views alongside quiches, sandwiches and frittatas; the elevated Gateway Café has a salad bar and seasonal dishes using ingredients from the kitchen garden; and summer 2026 sees the arrival of the Garden View Deck & Bar: enjoy sunset drinks, small plates and pizza on the John Hope Gateway’s outdoor area after the gardens close.

Back on Inverleith Row, Krem Karamel is part bookshop, part café, serving brunch classics and excellent home baking, while The Orchard has been dishing up elevated gastropub fare for years, with real ales and craft beers on tap. Crossing the river into

Canonmills, architecturally striking The Tollhouse (page 60) gives tantalising peeks of wildlife and shows a deft hand with seasonal produce. Or pass the Canonmills clock to Italian-run Di Giorgio for hefty sandwiches and handmade pasta dishes. A stroll uphill towards Rodney Street finds the minuscule Singapore Coffee House, where you can dunk buttery roti canai into curry sauce. Facing each other diagonally at the busy Broughton Road crossroads, One Canon and O’Connor’s are both decent neighbourhood pubs for a pint or more. Cosy Hata has porridgy goodness and granola for breakfast, with generous sourdough sandwiches at lunch. Or tuck into filled bagels and lush doughnuts at cool and casual Seventy One Steps

Finally for this patch, loop through Eyre Place to sultry Cardinal (page 65), where Michelin-starred Tomás Gormley puts the fun back into fine dining, while Celestia next door brings modern Indian eating to the neighbourhood. Last stop is the foot of Dundas Street: sup Italian vino at dinky Bacco Wine, enjoy good brews and great atmosphere at old-school Clark’s Bar, check out fine coffee and speciality cakes from southwest France at Project Canelè or, from breakfast to nightcap, relax at One20 Wine Café (page 83).

Cardinal

PICTURE:

Broughton Street: Places To Eat & Drink

BISTRO COCO

32b Broughton Street, bistro-coco.co.uk

Francophile favourites come with a pop of creativity here. The chateaubriand for two has couples fighting over the final, tender bite, and rabbit served three ways on one plate shows skill in the kitchen.

FRENCHIE

14 Broughton Street, barfrenchie.com

Alison and Fabrice Bouteloup quietly took over this spot from Rollo in 2025 and they’ve retained the bites/bowls/plates format. But there’s a fresh energy, with new dishes that embrace Asian influences while others lean into comforting French cooking.

L’ESCARGOT BLEU

56 Broughton Street, lescargotbleu.co.uk

Snails in garlic butter, spicy steak tartare and beef bourguignon that falls apart as soon as the fork touches it mark this out as the epitome of French dining. Chef Fred Berkmiller also integrates produce from his kitchen garden into many dishes.

LUCKY YU

53–55 Broughton Street, luckyyu.co.uk

Lucky Yu has survived the wane in demand for bao by

branching out into Asian fusion small plates. There are still gyoza and buns, but sandos and skewers dripping with umami sticky sauce are a welcome expansion.

THAMEL

7–11 East London Street, thamel.co.uk

Himalayan hot pot here is deliciously tangy, lamb naga packed with spice and garlic naan dripping with butter. What’s not to love? Add elaborate cocktails that smoke with dry ice and you’ve got everything for a night out.

VINETTE

36 Broughton Street, vinette.co.uk

Chef Stuart Ralston’s venture into French cuisine doesn’t disappoint. The atmosphere is date-night perfect and even the simple-looking signature burger is a decadent treat. Menus are seasonal but expect prime cuts of meat alongside foraged mushrooms, rich jus and creamy sauces.

Also try . . . the street’s fine drinking spots, including The Basement Bar’s great selection of tequila and mezcals (page 16), wine bar Pickles Of Broughton Street (page 83) for a glass and grazing board, and The Broughton for a superior classic pub experience

Vinette

Montrose

Abbeyhill & Easter Road: Places To Eat & Drink

ART AND VINTAGE

3 Lyne Street, artandvintage-edinburgh.co.uk

Welcoming space for big breakfast and loaded sandwiches. Dinner nights are BYOB and a lot of fun.

HERRINGBONE ABBEYHILL

Royal Terrace Gardens, London Road, herringbone-abbeyhill.co.uk

Smart space with a nicely varied menu; the huge outdoor terrace is one of the city’s best al fresco spots.

KITCHEN TABLE BY TWELVE TRIANGLES

22–24 Easter Road, twelvetriangles.co.uk

The love of good sourdough and local ingredients come together in a gorgeous neighbourhood café.

LITTLE FITZROY

46 Easter Road, littlefitzroy.coffee

Coffee aficionados know the queue here is worth it. Enjoy vegan sandwiches and assorted pastries too.

MONTROSE

1 Montrose Terrace, montroserestaurant.co

A gorgeous low-intervention wine bar and casual restaurant from the Timberyard team. Order à la carte or try a sharing menu and let the kitchen surprise you.

RED KITE CAFÉ

7–8 Cadzow Place, redkitecafe.com

You can’t order badly on the brunch menu here, but the Turkish eggs with chilli and pickled onions is excellent.

Also try . . . a pint at Old Eastway Tap or The Mash

Tun, tacos and cocktails at The Safari Lounge, Italian focaccia and arancini to take away at Polentoni and Polish comfort food at The Percy

Leith Walk: Places To Eat

Leith Walk is always evolving, and that’s the beauty of it. Fine-dining favourite Eleanore has had a makeover in the past year, stripping back both interiors and menus but keeping reasonable pricing and exceptional quality. Mirin is one of the toughest tables to book on Leith Walk; it’s small in size but serves dishes big in punchy Asian flavours. Their former incarnation as Gulp Ramen is set to reopen soon at 126 Leith Walk.

Chic wine bar Spry (page 83) has a menu that punches well above bar snacks, such as crab and Jerusalem artichoke on sourdough crumpet with buttered kale. Sister business Ante downstairs does a great line in pastries, brunch dishes and excellent coffee. Ella –Taste Of Greece brings a little sunshine to the Walk, with tapas, mezze, grilled dishes and packed gyros wraps. For family-friendly dining, Origano is a winner. Start with a piled-high meat or cheese board, then dive into spinacio pizza topped with oozing egg.

Part plant shop, part brunch spot, Urban Jungle Brunch Room (page 59) is a warm leafy haven: try their eggs Venice with pesto, chilli, goat’s cheese and bacon. Brunswick Book Club has plenty of seats in the sun or a cosy library-inspired interior, serving hearty brunch until 5pm. Or check out handmade dumplings at 5 Dumplings, sharing tapas at La Casa and big bowls of pho at The Bami

Mirin

Leith Shore & Around: Casual Eating

BROWN’S OF LEITH

4–6 Shore, customlane.co/browns-of-leith

Achingly cool space in an old metalworking building, with three great places to eat: Haze for coffee and pastries then tinned fish and natural wines later; Civerinos for New Haven-style thin, crisp pizza; and Shuck Bar by ShrimpWreck for oysters and local seafood.

CAFÉ DOMENICO

30 Sandport Street, cafedomenico.co.uk

Sandwich bar at the front; traditional Italian restaurant at the back. Pick up loaded focaccia to go or pull up a chair for Italian favourites, including chicken saltimbocca and venison ragù with tagliatelle.

COCORICO

96 Jane Street, instagram.com/cocorico_leith

This French café on an industrial estate is easy to miss, but one visit will make you a regular. Portions are generous; try a deep bowl of Cullen skink, a hearty burger or quiche, and leave room for cake if you can.

TAPA

19 Shore Place, tapaedinburgh.co.uk

A spacious tapas bar that has been keeping diners happy with piled plates of patatas bravas, pimientos de padrón and hot gooey croquetas for years. Lunch deals are good value and it’s a fun place to go with a big group.

TOAST

65 Shore, toastleith.co.uk

With sunny window seats and outdoor tables, Toast makes Leith feel almost Mediterranean. Brunch features generous plates of huevos rancheros and shakshuka. Later, explore the wine list with the last of the rays.

WILLIAMS & JOHNSON

1 Customs Wharf, williamsandjohnson.com

Their delicious coffee is available across Edinburgh, but it’s best enjoyed at their contemporary roastery and café. The airy room leads into the vibrant Custom Lane exhibition space or take a sunny table by the river.

Also try . . . Printworks and The Old Spence Café for a good coffee, while for brunch Ardfern (page 78) knocks it out the park. Head to Victor Hugo Deli for pastrami on rye or big hot sandwich pioneers Alby’s for an unforgettable lunch

Leith Shore & Around: Bars

Clockwise, from top left: The King’s Wark, Nobles By Bellfield, Roseleaf, Teuchters Landing

On a sunny day, Leithers make a beeline for Malt & Hops on the Shore, where a cold pint in a plastic cup can be enjoyed with your legs swinging over the river: it’s the simple things. But whatever the weather, Leith is a great place for drinks. The King’s Wark has a long history, spanning smugglers and royalty, and dates back to the 14th century. Today this cosy pub is all about real ales and fresh seafood. Further along the riverside, well-seasoned stalwart The Shore Bar is the spot for a quieter pint and some snacks in a beautiful wood-panelled room. New on Bernard Street is Diggers Leith, an offshoot of the Gorgie original, a small space serving well-priced fresh pints and pies. Nobles has a new lease of life as Nobles By Bellfield (page 72), with many of the local brewery’s beers on tap (all gluten-free) and elevated bar food too. Across the river, Teuchters Landing keeps local beers flowing and has a generous riverside beer garden. Warming mugs of Cullen skink or stovies and a particularly fine whisky range will keep you nice and snug if the weather turns. Roseleaf (page 78) is a cheery all-day spot with a tasty and pun-tastic bar food menu. It’s relaxed and family-friendly but staff will happily brew you up a potent cocktail served in a teapot. Also strong on bar food, The Lioness Of Leith is a top neighbourhood joint whether you’re after a quiet afternoon pint, a slap-up burger meal or late-night Margaritas. Old arcade games and neon art add to the vibe, with candles flickering on stripped-wood tables. One just for grown-ups, Nauticus is unapologetically sophisticated. It’s a dark and sultry space, with great cocktails and a wall of whisky. Drinks are inspired by Leith’s maritime trading history, from spice routes to the whisky boom, with a real commitment to championing Scottish producers. Cocktail lovers will also enjoy Three Marys: with dark floral décor, stained-glass windows and plush velvet seating, it’s a lot lovelier than your average boozer. Better still, the cocktails are cracking, the local drinks selection is strong and there’s frequent live music by jazz bands. Meanwhile, new favourite The Finch, just off Salamander Street, is a real crowd-pleaser and a brilliant addition to the area, serving beers from Leith, a strong wine list and very good cocktails.

Leith Shore & Around: Restaurants

CUTTING CHAII

18–20 Salamander Street, cuttingchaii.co.uk

Tapas-style Indian dishes inspired by the traditional Iranian cafés and food carts of old Bombay. Designed to share, the street chaats are a speciality. Try chickpeas steeped in Darjeeling tea, Koliwada fried fish fillets and crushed samosas with chaat masala, yoghurt and chutneys.

DOGSTAR

17 Portland Place, dogstarleith.com

At Dogstar, expect to encounter local ingredients in many guises across the menu, like a sika deer main and a corresponding Scotch egg snack. The changing shellfish selection is cooked over the coals, including razor clams in sherry cream or Barra scallops with rhubarb and cavolo nero.

DÙTHCHAS

187 Great Junction Street, duthchas-restaurant.co.uk

Dedicated to foraged ingredients and Scottish game, the options here are a wee (three-course) or six-course tasting menu or a precision à la carte lunch. Expect the likes of rabbit with rich cabbage reduction or foraged seaweed with a side of Japanese dashi.

THE LITTLE CHARTROOM

14 Bonnington Road, thelittlechartroom.com

Chef Roberta Hall-McCarron is queen of the micro season, with menus changing as seasonal ingredients appear, even fleetingly. The restaurant is calm and minimal, with floor-length curtains dividing the space. It’s a three or five-course fixed-price menu, with three dazzling options per course.

NAMI

63 Shore, namiedinburgh.com

From the sisters behind Mimi’s Bakehouse, this friendly Asian-inspired restaurant is bringing something fresh and fun to Leith diners. Share dishes of miso grilled fish, shiitake dan dan noodles and very moreish Korean fried chicken. Reasonably priced and family friendly, Nami fills a hungry gap on the Shore.

NORAH

3 Pier Place, norahnewhaven.co.uk

Classy new bakery-slash-café-slash-daytime restaurant along the coast at Newhaven. Discover honest, Irish-inspired food like smoked haddock chowder, dotted with fat mussels, or bitter-leaf salad with pear and walnut topped with a mountain of Boyne Valley Bán goat’s cheese.

Also try . . . Ardfern (page 78), which can be a bar, café or restaurant depending on how you order; Leith’s Michelin-starred fine-diners (page 65) Restaurant Martin Wishart, The Kitchin and Heron; and excellent seafood (page 77) at Barry Fish, Fishers and The Ship On The Shore

Clockwise, from left: Nami, Heron, The Little Chartroom, Norah, Dogstar PICTURE:

Leith Neighbourhood

PORTO & FI

47 Newhaven Main Street | EH6 4NQ portofi.com

A family run café-bistro established in 2008 on the Edinburgh waterfront, ideally situated to capture stunning views over the Firth Of Forth. The atmosphere is bright, friendly and relaxed. Enjoy with friends and family from either our breakfast or main bistro menu.

FACEPLANT

37 Duke Street | EH6 8HH faceplantfoods.com

A firm Leith favourite, this 100% vegan hotspot makes all their own ‘meats’ & ‘cheese’ in-house and crafts the most mouthwatering creations, including specials and breakfasts. A minute away from the Foot Of The Walk tramstop, FacePlant is also on Deliveroo.

ROSELEAF BAR CAF É

23–24 Sandport Place | EH6 6EW roseleaf.co.uk

A must-visit food spot for brunches, lunches, din-dins and munchies. Serving well-travelled punters and locals since 2007. With a great selection of fresh juices, fizzies, coffee, teas and bevvies including their famous ‘Pot-Tails’ (cocktails in teapots).

Spotlights

CARTER COFFEE

4 Fyfe Lane | EH6 5FX cartercoffee.uk

Carter is a new specialty coffee roastery in Leith serving up a flavour-driven rotation of espresso and juicy filter coffee, roasted onsite. Swing by on weekdays to grab a bag of retail and a lifechanging flat white.

VALVONA & CROLLA

19 Elm Row | EH7 4AA valvonacrolla.com

A true Edinburgh institution. Established in 1934, Scotland’s oldest delicatessen is a fourthgeneration, family-run treasure trove of Italian food and wine. Make sure you explore the whole shop: there’s a hidden Caffè Bar in the back!

DUKES BAR

31 Duke Street | EH6 8HH dukesleith.co.uk

Dukes is a warm, friendly bar with an 80s nostalgic vibe in the heart of Duke Street, with live music and sports, 15 taps, frozen slushies, a fully gluten-free menu and the best wings in Scotland. Bring your pals. Bring your kids. Bring your dugs.

Stockbridge

ROYAL BOTANIC GARDEN EDINBURGH

Arboretum Place | EH3 5NZ rbge.org.uk

The Botanics has many options for foodie lovers. Enjoy seasonal specialities freshly made with ingredients from the Kitchen Garden, artisanal pastries with botanical twists, or a glass of bubbles at our summer deck bar.

CIVERINOS

48 Raeburn Place | EH4 1HL civerinos.com

Nestled in one of Edinburgh’s coolest neighbourhoods, Civerinos serves authentic pizza and vibes. Voted the world’s 7th best pizza by Time Out magazine, Civerinos offers its signature dishes, including 20-inch pies, New York-style slices and giant mozzarella sticks.

AVERY

54 St Stephen Street | EH3 5AL averyedi.co.uk

Chef Rodney Wages’ translation of his Michelin-starred restaurant, which recently moved from San Francisco to Edinburgh. Avery brings a unique perspective and technique from California to Scotland while celebrating the bounty of Scottish produce, meat and seafood.

CAFE ANDALUZ

122–124 Raeburn Place | EH4 1HG cafeandaluz.com/edinburghstockbridge

Ideally located in Stockbridge, Cafe Andaluz is perfect for relaxed Spanish dining in one of Edinburgh’s most charming neighbourhoods. Whether exploring markets, cobbled streets or boutiques, drop in for delicious dishes, sangria and a warm atmosphere loved by locals and visitors.

PATISSERIE FLORENTIN

5 North West Circus Place | EH3 6ST patisserieflorentin.com

T: 0131 220 0225

One of Stockbridge’s oldest cafés, Patisserie Florentin, just around the corner from Circus Lane, offers artisan coffee, brunch, home baking and its signature croque monsieur. A timeless favourite: perfect for relaxing, catching up or indulging in something delicious. Booking recommended for weekend brunch.

THE HOWDAH TEA & COFFEE COMPANY

5 Deanhaugh Street | EH4 1LU howdah.co.uk

The Howdah Tea & Coffee Company in Stockbridge is a proudly independent business offering over 100 types of premium coffee beans and loose-leaf teas. Loved by local regulars, we also supply top-quality coffee and teas to businesses across Edinburgh and the Lothians.

WEDGWOOD THE RESTAURANT

267 Canongate | EH6 4NG wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk

Wedgwood has been at the heart of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile for 18 years, championing Scotland’s finest seasonal produce. Led by husband-and-wife team Paul and Lisa Wedgwood, it offers refined yet relaxed dining, tasting menus, foraging experiences and hospitality.

THE GILDED SALOON

47 Lothian Street | EH1 1HB thegildedsaloon.co.uk @thegildedsaloon

A grown-ups pub menu in a traditional yet fun environment. The Gilded Saloon delivers a great selection of local draught beers alongside quality, affordable pub classics. A colab by Paradise Palms, Gilded Balloon and Kelburn Garden Party, sitting above People’s Leisure Club, a fab new event and performance space.

GREENWOODS

61 Frederick Street | EH2 1LH greenwoods.eu/edinburgh

A charming brunch destination in the heart of Edinburgh. Enjoy indulgent classics, seasonal specials, quality coffee and tea, and delicious homemade drinks that will leave you craving more. All served with passion in stylish surroundings.

ENCORE EDINBURGH

2 Hope Street | EH2 4DB encoreedinburgh.com

Encore, Edinburgh’s best kept secret, is where Paris prohibition era elegance meets Vegas extravagance. They serve expertly crafted cocktails, exceptional food, refined small plates and an intimate atmosphere designed for unforgettable evenings in the heart of the city.

PARADISE PALMS

41 Lothian Street | EH1 1HB theparadisepalms.com @edinburghpalms

Paradise Palms has been watering local deities for well over a decade. This much-loved institution continues to quench thirsty spirits and entertain with its eclectic entertainment and interior, but now it boasts an incredible Mexican menu by award-winning Antojitos Cantina.

BLACK GRAPE

240 Canongate, The Royal Mile EH8 8AB | theblackgrape.co.uk

The Black Grape is an awardwinning wine bar and restaurant in the heart of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile. Our vibrant bar is the perfect spot to enjoy a drink while the beautifully appointed restaurant serves a selection of delicious small plates.

Southside

A WEE TASTE

36 Leven Street | EH3 9LJ aweetaste.co.uk

A Wee Taste is a wine and grazing board bar, specialising in cheese, charcuterie and vegan platters, as well as scrumptious sides and tapas dishes. We also run monthly events and offer private hire for birthday, hen and baby shower gatherings.

ARGILE

21 Argyle Place | EH9 1JJ argilerestaurant.co.uk

From the French word for clay, Argile is an independent chef’s table in Marchmont. This intimate dining experience offers a frequently changing seasonal tasting menu which showcases the best of Scottish produce, cooked with a contemporary French leaning.

KATE’S

116 Causewayside | EH9 1PU instagram.com/kates_edinburgh

Kate’s is a local, family-run bakery and coffee shop. Specialising in seasonal, home baking for sit-in or takeaway. Cakes and bakes can be made to order. Victoria sponge, cheese scones, soups and cookies are some of the locals’ favourites. Dog-friendly. Open five years this year!

CAF É GRANDE

182–184 Bruntsfield Place | EH10 4DF cafegrande.cafe

Family owned since 1984 and still going strong. The kitchen takes great pride in making beautiful food for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Beautiful wines, cocktails and coffee complement the food. Support independents, we put our hearts into it.

TEMPO PERSO

208 Bruntsfield Place | EH10 4DE tempoperso.it

Tempo Perso is an Italian neighbourhood restaurant with a true connection to Italy, its own winery and a strong focus on wine. It offers authentic dishes rooted in tradition, served with warmth, simplicity and deep respect for ingredients and culture.

HALDI

38 Mayfield Gardens | EH9 2BY Also in Edinburgh Street Food haldiedinburgh.co.uk

Experience Haldi’s bold Indian flavours. We offer traditional recipes, vibrant spices and fresh ingredients, creating classic Indian dishes with a modern touch. Enjoy flavour-packed small plates, curries and tandoori favourites in our warm, welcoming space, perfect for sharing great food.

Out Of Town

ARCHERFIELD WALLED GARDEN

Archerfield Estate, Dirleton, East Lothian | EH39 5HQ archerfieldwalledgarden.com

Archerfield Walled Garden is a vibrant destination and haven for foodies. The Garden Café serves a seasonal all-day menu featuring lots of homegrown ingredients, while the Food Market offers a delightful range of grab-and-go options which are best enjoyed outdoors on the picturesque estate.

BELHAVEN SMOKEHOUSE

Beltonford, Dunbar | EH42 1ST belhavensmokehouse.co.uk

Belhaven Smokehouse is an award-winning East Lothian artisan producer, dry-curing and smoking premium Scottish salmon, trout, cheese and butter in small batches, delivering exceptional flavour and provenance to food lovers across Scotland and the rest of the UK.

PATINA

3–5 Airborne Place, Edinburgh Park EH12 9GR patinaedinburgh.com

A beautifully designed bakery and café on the edge of a new development in Edinburgh Park. There are stunning views across the Pentlands, with plenty of space to sit, relax or play on the square. Winner of Best Croissant in Edinburgh 2025.

THE WEE RESTAURANT

17 Main Street, North Queensferry KY11 1JG theweerestaurant.co.uk

A family-run restaurant in North Queensferry, nestled near the iconic Forth Bridges, Pilgrim Way and Fife Coastal Path. Established in 2006 by Craig & Vikki who have a real passion for Scottish hospitality and enjoy showcasing local produce.

RISING TIDE CAF E

324 Portobello High Street | EH15 2DA risingtidecafe.co.uk

Welcoming family-run licensed cafe with a relaxed atmosphere. Great food and drink selection featuring local independent producers. Popular for brunch, scones, sweet treats and excellent coffee. Changing art exhibitions, events, private hire space and summer outdoor seating. Dog-friendly.

HERD CAF É

Balgone Estate, Balgone Barns, EH39 5NY balgoneestate.co.uk/herd @herd.balgone

HERD is a farm-to-fork café at Balgone Estate near North Berwick, open Friday to Sunday, 9am to 3pm. They also host supper clubs and private dining for groups, celebrations and corporate events throughout the year.

African Food

KUBA

1 Dundee Street, kubaedinburgh.com

Edinburgh Printmakers’ striking red-brick building is home to galleries, workshops and a spacious café. Kuba’s brunch/lunch menu of colourful, freshly cooked options seem conventional enough but deeper exploration reveals a number of African touches such as Ghanian shakshuka or ful medames stew. Keep an eye on their extra-curricular events including a monthly jollof Sunday roast.

MAROBERT’S

7 Dublin Street, ma-roberts.com

After many years selling Tanzanian spice mixes and sauces, MaRobert’s opened a permanent café on Dublin Street. There are just a handful of tables and high stools inside to enjoy intensely spiced chickpea curries and blackened chicken thighs (and the hope of nyama choma on the daily-changing menu).

MUNA’S ETHIOPIAN CUISINE

8 Gillespie Place, instagram.com/munasethiopiancuisine

A little slice of Ethiopia in the Southside, where meals are based around injera: a sour, yeasty and delicious pancake-like bread which serves as an edible plate to tear, dip and dunk into deeply flavoured wots (spicy stews). Order a combo platter to try as many as you can; eating with your hands recommended.

PHRIENDS FOOD

16 Morrison Street, instagram.com/phriendsfood

It’s not about aesthetics at Phriends; it’s 100% about flavour. If you’ve got cravings that only jollof rice or waakye will satisfy, this is the spot for you. Rich and creamy peanut soup has a chilli kick, softened by a dense ball of fufu, and the menu is a lesson in Ghanaian cuisine.

UWAGBOE’S KITCHEN & GRILL

250–252 Leith Walk, uwagboeskitchen.com

This restaurant hosts a steady stream of hungry people picking up evening takeaways as well as filling up its comfy seating area, proving its popularity with the Nigerian community. App-based table ordering is a tall order for the uninitiated, so ask the friendly staff for help before tucking into spicy soup or smoky jollof rice.

Also try . . . for a quick lunch or takeaway, head to Chapel Street for two options (and an alleged Sharks v Jets-style ancient rivalry). The unassuming Africano Wrap Place is home to one of the city’s best bargains: a fiver will get you a chonky toasted wrap that will keep you going for ages. Two doors down is The Nile Valley Café, a touchstone for generations of Edinburgh uni students who rely on its wraps, salads and BYOB options for a filling feast that doesn’t cost a bomb

Kuba

PICTURE:

Breakfast & Brunch

DISHOOM

3a St Andrew Square, dishoom.com/edinburgh

It’s the bacon and egg between slices of fluffy naan that put Dishoom on Edinburgh’s brunch map. Irani café staples like spicy chicken keema topped with fried eggs are also worth a pilgrimage, though there might be a queue at the door.

GREENWOODS

61 Frederick Street, greenwoods.eu/restaurant/edinburgh

All the way from the Netherlands, this city centre café serves brunch all day long. Pancakes are piled high and soda bread is worth the walk. From full Scottish to kimchi benny, it’s fast, filling and tasty.

THE GRUFF GOAT

19–20 Teviot Place, thegruffgoat.co.uk

Is this the best shakshuka in the city? Maybe. The eggs are runny, it leaves a spicy tingle at the back of your throat and the tomatoes are fresh. Joining the shakshuka on the menu are other brunch classics and a selection of hot and cold mezze.

HUMMUS

366 Morningside Road, facebook.com/hummusedinburgh

An uber-friendly, family-run café, the counter is stacked with all-veggie Lebanese mezze. Squeeze into the tiny space for a selection served on vintage crockery or take away a wrap; better still, make a morning rendezvous with their manakeesh.

NISHIKI

151–155 Morrison Street, nishikiedinburgh.co.uk

Nishiki’s Japanese-style breakfasts are a welcome addition to Edinburgh’s brunch scene. Poached eggs in ceramic pots are doused in soy sauce while thick, fluffy shokupan (milk bread) with miso caramel and matcha soft serve hit every flavour note in one dish.

URBAN JUNGLE BRUNCH ROOM

187–189 Leith Walk, sebsurbanjungle.co.uk

Just being inside this sunny plant shop and café feels good for you. Avocado on toast is the house special, topped with rocket, feta and optional eggs or bacon. Take home a potted leafy friend or browse arty gifts at the local makers’ market every Friday.

Also try . . . bringing a four-legged friend for brunch? Head to S&B in Stockbridge for their sinful croissant/waffle hybrid with KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) on top, or go a little further to the bunting-clad Beach House in Portobello for big brunches with sea views. Roseleaf (page 46) in Leith does a fab cooked breakfast, especially for veggies

Slow-cooked, spice-infused and filling; sometimes all you want is a really good curry. Edinburgh’s curry offerings have got a little more intrepid of late, with regional restaurants going far beyond the expected tikka masala and rogan josh. However, if butter chicken is exactly what you’re craving, there are still plenty of spots that have refined the classics too.

Gautam’s has a couple of sister restaurants (Thamel and Solti) in the city centre, but head to the self-titled branch at Meadowbank for tangy, spice-laden Himalyan-style curries and naan so garlicky it feels medicinal. If you’re in the West End and fancy Nepalese momos or rich Kathmandu curries, The Khukuri has you covered with dining beneath a rainbow of prayer flags.

For Indian cuisine, Mother India’s Café has been around for years on Infirmary Street and is always busy. Paneer dosa is light and crisp, spiced haddock oven baked and tender, and chana dhal beautifully aromatic. Sharing plates make it a great spot for groups. Similarly, Mowgli, housed in a former city centre bank, has oodles of space. Here, the flavour-explosions from yoghurt chaat bombs prove it’s not just Nisha Katona’s trademark fairy-lit aesthetic drawing in the punters. Dishoom (page 59) is another solid choice for groups and it’s popular for brunch; from their full menu, the Britannia biryani and ruby chicken are worth travelling (or waiting) for. Edinburgh’s original curry house, Khushi’s, made a comeback in 2025 with a colourful new venue near the university and lovingly cooked dishes such as monkfish moilee and mutton bhuna.

Wholesome, hearty Punjabi street food can be found at Sabzi on Ferry Road, where the menu changes weekly. Keep your fingers crossed that the rich and delicious dhal makhani is on offer. In Leith, Cutting Chaii (page 48) has vegan and vegetarian offerings in abundance. Jackfruit, okra and paneer are all cooked into inventive and incredibly tasty street food-style curries. On Leith Walk, Cilantro is subtly doing curries right with a tender and compelling chicken tikka masala and addictive saag paneer alongside a wallet-friendly BYOB policy.

For those craving a more coconut-based south-east Asian curry, Nok’s Kitchen in Stockbridge (with branches on Johnston Terrace and Morrison Street) does a fabulously filling Thai massaman. Small but mighty Thai restaurant Dusit on Thistle Street has a namesake curry incorporating rose-pink sirloin steak with a deep red sauce that lingers on the tastebuds. Finally, a shout-out to stylish Vietnamese restaurant, Sen, whose lantern confit duck curry with thick wheels of lotus root carries a lingering spice and sweet aniseed kick in one bowl.

Khushi’s

BREAKFAST LIKE A BOMBAYITE

A few minutes’ amble from Edinburgh Waverly station, much-needed morning replenishment awaits.

Fry-up devotees: tuck into an exclusive Scottish special, Haggis Pau – richly spiced intercontinental fulfilment on buttered buns. Or indulge in Bacon Naan Rolls, stacks of Cinnamon-Jaggery Pancakes, Parsi Omelettes, fresh fruits and grains with plentiful vegan options, too.

Stay awhile, there are dishes and drinks to delight – morning, noon and night.

WALK IN OR BOOK

Walk-ins welcome all day.

Small groups: book any time before 5.45pm.

Groups of 6+: book any time.

Delis & Purveyors Of Good Food

GEORGE MEWES CHEESE

3 Dean Park Street, georgemewescheese.co.uk

Specialising in artisan and farmhouse cheese from Scotland and beyond, the Mewes name is linked to cheeseboards in some of Edinburgh’s finest restaurants.

HERBIE OF EDINBURGH

66 Raeburn Place, herbieofedinburgh.co.uk

Dinky Stockbridge deli jam-packed with jars of kimchi, jams and chutneys. They air-dry their own hams and produce the best chicken liver pâté.

IJ MELLIS

30 Victoria Street, mellischeese.net

Artisan Scottish cheese is a speciality in this cave-like shop. Here, as well as in Stockbridge and Morningside, you can also stock up on fresh bread, wine and more.

LUPE PINTOS DELI

24 Leven Street, lupepintos.com

Handmade corn tortillas, obscure tequilas, hot sauce to blow your face off and homemade guacamole to die for.

VALVONA & CROLLA

19 Elm Row, valvonacrolla.co.uk

Shelves stacked high with olive oils, wine and pasta and almost everything arrives direct from Italy.

WELCH FISHMONGERS

23 Pier Place, welchfishmongers.com

Crab, langoustines and fresh fish fill the ice beds here. Plus, there’s something pleasing about boats bobbing in a cute little harbour just outside the door.

Also try . . . 181 Delicatessen in Bruntsfield (page 33); Eden Seafood for some of the best sashimi in town; and Fruttivendolo on Dalry Road for a cornucopia of imported Italian produce and dry goods

Family-friendly

DUCK & WAFFLE

St James Quarter, duckandwaffle.com/edinburgh Oysters, full breakfasts, and pulled duck atop signature waffles: perfect for families with many tastes to please.

GIO’S

39–41 Slateford Road, giosedinburgh.co.uk

Crayons and pencils plus a dedicated menu for little diners. Homemade pasta elevates Italian classics.

HERRINGBONE

2 South Trinity Road, herringbone-goldenacre.co.uk

A welcoming atmosphere for families. The kids’ menu doesn’t insult wee ones’ tastebuds and they dine for big discounts during term time.

THE SCRAN & SCALLIE

1 Comely Bank Road, scranandscallie.com

It might feel like a grown-up dining room but the under12s menu features smart pub classics too. There’s also a kids’ corner and a colouring-in station.

STACK & STILL

83 Hanover Street, stackandstill.co.uk

Kids love pancakes and the build-your-own stack lets them take charge of their order completely. Little diners are given activity sheets and crayons.

VITTORIA ON THE BRIDGE

19 George IV Bridge, vittoriarestaurant.com/vittoria-on-the-bridge Italian is a sure bet for family-friendly dining and Vittoria’s Old Town venue is particularly welcoming to junior foodies with a three-course kids’ menu.

Also try . . . Down The Hatch (page 18) for burgers, poutine and a family-friendly atmosphere or Di Giorgio for Italian lunches with a little library of kids’ books

Gio’s

Herbie Of Edinburgh

Italian specialist Delicatessen, Wine Shop & Caffè Bar Run by sisters Francesca & Olivia Contini, great-granddaughters of founder Alfonso Crolla. Four generations of the finest Continental Produce.

Monday - Saturday 9am - 6pm 19 Elm Row, Edinburgh, EH7 4AA 0131 556 6066

UK-wide delivery – shop online at valvonacrolla.com

Fine Dining

It’s a strength of the Edinburgh dining scene that you can eat exceptionally well at a wide range of price points, but fine dining is particularly strong. The Michelin Guide awards one star to seven city restaurants, making it the highest concentration in any UK city outside London. In addition, there are plenty more head-turning gourmet experiences. It’s a scene that balances established heavyweights with a new wave of ingredientled kitchens pushing forward new styles and ideas. Scottish produce is central: expect sea herbs from East Lothian, game from the Borders, vegetables from the Lothians and Fife, and pristine seafood from the North Sea and Hebridean creels. While tasting menus still dominate, shorter and more accessible formats are becoming increasingly common.

Restaurant Martin Wishart in Leith has held a Michelin star since 2001, its hushed dining room setting the tone for assured, classically rooted cooking with subtle twists: perhaps poached pigeon with calamari risotto and squid ink. Nearby, The Kitchin offers a slightly more traditional feel, with a focus on the Scottish larder in dishes like pastry-encased Orkney scallops. In the city centre, Number One at The Balmoral Hotel continues to offer skilful, polished cooking that still feels approachable.

For something more contemporary, Timberyard brings a Scandinavian sensibility to Scottish ingredients, with ferments, fire cookery and foraged accents in dishes like Moray Firth squid with dulse and heritage potatoes. Its sibling Montrose in Abbeyhill follows a similar ethos with a gentler bill. In Stockbridge, Avery, which was relocated from San Francisco by chef Rodney Wages, blends Californian and Japanese influences with local produce in bold, precise dishes like razor clam with anchovy and citrus.

Also in Stockbridge, Moss is one of the city’s most intriguing newer openings: a farm-to-table restaurant supplied in part by the chef’s own Angus farm, with a strictly Scottish, hyper-seasonal approach. Expect inventive plates shaped by what’s available that day, from wild meats to delicately handled vegetables.

Leith’s Heron balances lightness and technical flair, with subtle Japanese touches, while The Little Chartroom showcases Roberta Hall-McCarron’s precise, micro-seasonal cooking. At Condita in Newington, just 12 guests a night experience Tyler King’s imaginative tasting menu, revealed through hand-drawn pictograms. Intimacy also defines Eòrna in Stockbridge with its chef and sommelier duo curating the evening around a curved dining bar, while nearby Cardinal offers an even more theatrical setting for tasting and market menus from chef Tomás Gormley.

For a true blowout, Lyla, perched beside Calton Hill, showcases Stuart Ralston at his most refined, with a delicate, seafood-led tasting menu that is as precise as it is visually striking.

From top: The Little Chartroom, Number One, Timberyard

Good For Groups

BREWHEMIA

1a Market Street, brewhemia.co.uk

One of the biggest bars in town, Brewhemia offers private spaces and big tables that work for everything. There’s varied weekend entertainment as standard, flexible menus and packages, and they make it really easy for the organiser too.

FAZENDA

102 George Street, fazenda.co.uk

With Fazenda’s churrasco experience, a single fixed price gets you endless expertly grilled meat alongside unlimited salads and sides. Tableside service means it works well for family get-togethers or book the private dining room (for ten) for special occasions.

KAHANI INDIAN STREET FOOD

10 Antigua Street, kahanirestaurant.co.uk

Kahani specialises in banquet-style dining for larger parties, with a straightforward and crowdpleasing set menu for sharing in a large and airy space. There’s also a short pre-theatre menu available if you’re heading to the Playhouse. A low charge for BYOB keep things affordable.

KEBABISH GRILL & STEAK RESTAURANT

128 Dalry Road, kebabishoriginalgrill.co.uk

With a menu ranging across Pakistani curries to biryanis and more, sharing stacks of grilled meats arrive at the street-level dining area where smaller groups and walk-ins gather. The larger back section of this energetic 100+ seater venue caters to groups.

TUK TUK INDIAN STREET FOOD

1 Leven Street & 16 Drummond Street, tuktukindianstreetfood.com

Low corkage fees on BYOB and well thought-through street food-style eats mean Tuk Tuk is good value for everyone, and particularly great value for groups. Small curry dishes are made for sharing; the pau bhaji will carry you away from a rainy Edinburgh day.

THE VOODOO ROOMS

19a West Register Street, thevoodoorooms.com

You don’t have to be planning a full-on party to make use of The Voodoo Rooms’ flexible spaces. You can book drinks for groups of up to 30 online and dinner for eight. For bigger groups, the helpful team can guide you through the options.

Also try . . . Howies have private dining spaces for up to 90 guests across both their venues, with nicely judged set menus (page 13). Bodega on Leith Walk also does a family-style ‘feed me’ menu for groups of six or more, which includes a Margarita

Kahani Indian Street Food

Ice-cream

ALANDAS

1 Forrest Road, alandas.co.uk

East Lothian success story Alandas ‘sculpts not scoops’ smooth gelato in this elegant Old Town ice-cream bar. Flavours change daily but Piedmont hazelnut is particularly special. The Belgian milk chocolate has also won awards, which goes to show you really can’t order badly.

CICCETTA’S

26 Bruntsfield Avenue, instagram.com/ciccettas

This Bruntsfield newcomer has certainly got tongues wagging as well as licking, thanks to small batches of hand-churned gelato with unusual flavours. Their sundaes steal the show, particularly the campfire smoke which comes loaded with toasted marshmallow and pecans.

JOELATO

31 North West Circus Place and Bonnie & Wild, St James Quarter, joelato.co.uk

This Stockbridge gelateria is perfectly positioned for a wander by the Water Of Leith. The company began in Perthshire and there’s still a strong connection, with rich milk, cream and fresh berries arriving from the county, plus coffee from Aberfeldy’s Glen Lyon.

MARY’S MILK BAR

19 Grassmarket, marysmilkbar.com

You’ll likely spot the queue first at this sweet little ice-cream bar; it’s well worth joining. Mary makes the gelato daily, with a few unusual choices joining the classics: think chocolate with cayenne and cinnamon, or mango and cumin. Every day is different.

OSCAR’S

3 Brighton Place and Portobello Promenade, oscarsgelato.com

Oscar’s delivers perfect scoops from their Porty High Street shop and their truck on the prom. Traditional choices are nicely done: try raspberry ripple, rum and raisin, or straight-up chocolate or vanilla. Sticky faces mandatory.

SOFTCORE

Edinburgh Street Food, Leith Street, softcoreedin.co.uk

Creamy soft-serve ice-cream, made from fresh milk and cream with none of the nonsense. The sundaes are outrageously good: try miso and caramel ice-cream with salted caramel sauce and honeycomb. Sugar rush here we come.

Also try . . . Luca’s is Edinburgh’s ice-cream OG: find them in Musselburgh and Morningside. Moo Pie Gelato does a mean line in gelato, hot chocolate and cookie sandwiches, while Considerit’s ice-cream range is fully vegan

Joelato

Softcore

Italian

CONTINI GEORGE STREET

103 George Street, contini.com/contini-george-street

This is Italian cooking rooted in tradition and comfort but guided by Scotland’s larder, including vegetables from the Contini kitchen garden. Dishes are restrained yet full of flavour, like Shetland mussels steamed with white wine, or homemade ravioli with mortadella, ricotta, courgettes and pistachios.

DIVINO WINE BAR & RESTAURANT

5 Merchant Street, divinoedinburgh.com

Basement wine bar and restaurant serving dishes from across Italy, with an excellent wine list. Expect linguine pasta tossed with chilli, tomato and king prawns, and Puglian burrata with grilled peppers. A bottle-lined private dining room makes it a strong choice for groups.

LITTLE CAPO

18 Howe Street, littlecapo.com

Self-described as ‘Italian-ish’, Little Capo leans into relaxed, neighbourhood charm. Start with zucchini fritte and a white Negroni Sbagliato, then try the cioppino: stew with hake, mussels, orzo and samphire. Cakes are delightful too, rich with almonds and citrus; perfect with an espresso.

LOCANDA DE GUSTI

102 Dalry Road, locandadegusti.com

Rustic southern Italian cooking is the focus, with daily-changing specials showcasing fresh fish and handmade pasta. Family-run warmth comes through in every detail, from sweet Sicilian peppers to deeply flavoured vegetable ragù and a sense of generosity that keeps regulars returning.

RADICIBUS

2 Deanhaugh Street, radicibus.co.uk

A sleek yet intimate basement restaurant that brings a fine-dining edge to Italian cooking, drawing heavily on Scotland’s wild ingredients. Game, foraged mushrooms and seafood feature across menus, supported by a carefully chosen list of artisanal Italian wines.

TIPO

110 Hanover Street, tipoedinburgh.co.uk

Tipo blends the ease of an elegant small-plates spot with confident Italian cooking. Generous and gently rustic, it’s known for dishes like strozzapreti with Calabrian sausage and zeppole (fried dough strips buried under a mountain of pecorino). The set lunch is great value.

Also try . . . elegant Sotto in Stockbridge (page 36), the cosy back room at Café Domenico in Leith (page 45), Patatino at The Hoxton (page 73) or, for plant-based Italian, try Sora Diana (page 74) on Causewayside

Little Capo

Tipo

ROOFTOP DINING AT SUSHISAMBA EDINBURGH

Located on the 10th floor of the five‑star W Edinburgh, SUSHISAMBA Edinburgh brings energy, artistry and flavour to Scotland’s capital. Seamlessly blending Japanese precision, Brazilian spirit and Peruvian soul, the restaurant offers an elevated dining experience in the heart of this luxury hotel on St James Square.

At the core of SUSHISAMBA Edinburgh is an extensive à la carte menu, crafted to encourage both discovery and sharing. Expect impeccably prepared sushi and sashimi alongside bold hot dishes showcasing vibrant Brazilian influences. Classic SUSHISAMBA signatures sit confidently beside unique local dishes made from the finest Scottish ingredients, creating a menu that feels both globally connected and locally grounded. Whether drawn to delicate raw plates, expertly grilled meats or flavour‑forward dishes layered with punchy marinades and textures, guests can expect dishes with flair and precision – it’s much more than sushi!

Designed to share, the Taste of Samba menu offers a paced journey through some of the restaurant’s most iconic dishes. Ideal for first‑time visitors or relaxed group dining, this experience balances lighter sushi selections with richer, heartier courses, capturing the diversity of the menu in a single sitting.

Champagne Afternoon Tea at SUSHISAMBA Edinburgh is a must try, where a British tradition is reimagined

through the lens of the restaurant’s vibrant culinary identity. Savoury bites and inventive sweet creations are paired with chilled Laurent Perrier Champagne and unrivalled skyline views. Available throughout the year, it offers a modern alternative to classic afternoon tea and an ideal reason to visit time and time again when it changes with the season.

In Summer, the appeal is the expansive outside terrace, an elevated outdoor space offering panoramic views from Calton Hill across the historic cityscape to Edinburgh Castle. A day time sun trap, the terrace invites guests to enjoy drinks and small plates in every season, whether soaking up long summer days or taking in crisp winter light from one of Edinburgh’s most striking vantage points.

With its bold cuisine, electric atmosphere and unrivalled views, SUSHISAMBA Edinburgh stands as a dynamic fixture of the city’s dining scene, a destination to return to throughout the year for unforgettable food, cocktails and moments above the skyline.

And before you call it a night, visit W Edinburgh’s speakeasy, Joao’s Place, located on the floor above SUSHISAMBA for a night cap! Continuing the Japanese and Brazilian theme you’ll discover expertly crafted cocktails and the city’s best sunsets.

Japanese & Sushi

HARAJUKU KITCHEN

10 Gillespie Place, harajukukitchen.co.uk

A hybrid of endearing neighbourhood bistro and more-than-sushi Japanese specialist, this is a place to explore new flavours, eat well and feel looked after. Go beyond sushi to try their gyoza, curries and donburi.

KENJI SUSHI

24 Deanhaugh Street, kenjisushi.com

Kenji makes the most of its subterranean surroundings with dark walls, paper lanterns and cute room dividers splitting the tiny space. A big menu hits all the marks, but the sea-fresh sushi is among the best in the city.

KOME IZAKAYA

13a Brougham Street, komeizakaya.co.uk

Casual Japanese bar-dining culture is de rigueur at Kome Izakaya: small bowls of seaweed-infused rice topped with runny egg, mini yakitori skewers in sweet-salty glaze and sandos on soft shokupan. Craft cocktails are as prettily presented as the food and there’s a vast choice of sake for connoisseurs.

SATORU

45 St Patrick Square, satoru-edinburgh.square.site

Japanese cuisine as it should be: a select menu specialising in one delicacy. In Satoru’s case, it’s tempura and udon noodles. Light and crisp battered prawns and vegetables are the stars, topping warm bowls of thick noodles.

YAMATO

11 Lochrin Terrace, yamatoedinburgh.co.uk

A masterclass in relaxed yet serene Japanese fine dining, with top-notch sashimi, nigiri and maki rolls alongside small plates and the chance to sample highgrade tuna, wagyu beef and sake.

YUTORI

83 Morrison Street, yutori-edinburgh.co.uk

Sushi is fresh, ramen is thick and piping hot, and the décor is cool. Standard California-style sushi (dragon rolls, rainbow rolls) appears alongside staples like gyoza, katsu and tempura, but every dish is quality.

Also try . . . budget yet excellent sushi is still available thanks to a BYOB policy at Chizuru Tei (page 35), while classy lightwood and paper elevate Kanpai to fancy dining levels. New kid on the block Nishiki (page 59) hits the mark on décor and dishes in equal measure

Yamato

Kebabs & Shawarma

ADA

9a Antigua Street, adarestaurant.co.uk

A top spot for a sit-down kebab. Spice-heavy iskender kebabs are served on a bed of flavoursome chickpea rice and shish kebabs are delightfully tender.

KABUL KITCHEN

36 Castle Terrace, instagram.com/kabul______kitchen

The entrance of this Afghan restaurant is glitzy. But it’s the food that drops jaws, like flaky lamb cooked for hours and wrapped in flatbread warm from the oven.

LEITH SHAWARMA

154 Leith Walk, instagram.com/leith_shawarma_

At this classic late-night kebab spot, two spits turn and flatbread is hand-cooked on the side of a bread oven.

MANGAL: TASTE OF ANATOLIA

57–59 South Clerk Street, mangaledinburgh.co.uk

Dishes at Mangal are cooked over open flames and sharing platters feel like special occasion dining.

NEIGHBOURWOOD

294 Leith Walk, instagram.com/neighbourwoodsyrian

Flavour-packed chicken shawarma doused in homemade chilli sauce keeps folk coming back here.

VERDO

21 Newington Road, verdobbq.com

Cooked over charcoal embers, shish skewers are top tier, with flavour-packed rice and homemade flatbread.

Also try . . . Baba (page 24) for an elevated take on the kebab. On a big night out, Palmyra Pizza is a rite of passage for a shawarma or falafel wrap

Lunch Deals

CHEZ JULES BISTRO

109 Hanover Street, chezjulesbistro.com

At this lively French bistro, they add a dressed salad and bread basket to the likes of French onion soup and skirt steak, all for well under £15.

NOBLES BY BELLFIELD

44a Constitution Street, bellfieldbrewery.com/pages/nobles

Bellfield Brewery took over this Leith bar in early 2026, delivering delicious food driven by local produce. Their Friday workers’ lunch does a main and half pint for £14.

THE OUTSIDER

15–16 George IV Bridge, theoutsiderrestaurant.com

An ingredient-led menu, a witty and well-priced wine list and cracking castle views. The lunch menu’s outstanding value is the cherry on the cake.

THE PALMERSTON

1 Palmerston Place, thepalmerstonedinburgh.co.uk

The Palmerston has meticulous sourcing and kitchen skills. That you can sample all of this at lunchtime for under £25 for two courses is a bonus.

STOCKBRIDGE EATING HOUSE

7 St Stephen Street, stockbridgeeatinghouse.co.uk

The daily-changing menu is first-rate, the vibe intimate and the set lunch generous and super-affordable.

UNDER THE TABLE

341 Dundas Street, underthetable.uk

A tasting menu at The Table will set you back £110, but their next-door basement bistro offers the same level of finery for a much more accessible prix fixe affair.

Also try . . . Eleanore, for a laid-back prix fixe lunch that’s also available for pre-theatre and Hawksmoor (page 78) for a quality lunchtime steak at a savvy price

Noodles

IKIGAI RAMEN

29–30 South Bridge, ikigairamenuk.co.uk

The speciality is steaming bowls of ramen in slowcooked rich dashi and the tantanmen has a brilliant spicy kick.

MAKI & RAMEN

37 Leith Street, makiramen.com

Spicy noodle fans should try hell ramen while black tonkotsu ramen’s garlic level could ward off vampires.

NEM

58 Elm Row, vietnemuk.com

Of course pho’s on the menu, but more obscure Vietnamese noodle soups like banh da cua with rich crab broth and fat prawns make this spot stand out.

NOODLES HOME

14a Nicolson Street, noodles-home.goto-restaurants.com

The interior is functional but the bowl of hand-ripped noodles abruptly served might be the best of your life.

SICHUAN HOUSE

37–39 George IV Bridge, sichuanhouse-edinburgh.co.uk

Noodle dishes lean heavily towards udon, with intriguing ingredients like golden needle mushrooms, Chilli heat and intense spice are a given.

TING THAI

8–9 Teviot Place, tingthai.co.uk

Their pad thai always hits the right notes: chewy rice noodles and sweet prawns zingy with tamarind and lime. Food all comes in takeaway boxes, letting you know this is a spot for fast, filling food on the hoof.

Also try . . . Pomelo for hand-ripped noodles, Taste Of Home for Peking-style noodle dishes or any branch of the Pho chain for Vietnamese classics

CIVERINOS

Multiple locations, civerinos.com

Pizza

Enjoy a slice or two at Portobello, Stockbridge, Forrest Road, Hunter Square or try New Havenstyle at their latest home in Brown’s Of Leith.

PAESANO PIZZA

77a George Street, paesanopizza.co.uk

Glasgow’s cult Neapolitan pizzeria brings its highenergy charm to Edinburgh, now with bookings alongside walk-ins.

PATATINO

5–21 Grosvenor Street, thehoxton.com/edinburgh/patatino

In The Hoxton hotel, this modern trattoria’s sourdough pizza menu is short but fun: try Highland bresaola with fior di latte and spinach.

PIZZA GEEKS

Multiple locations, pizzageeks.co.uk

Trio of lively pizzerias (Haymarket, Leith, Easter Road) with a playful, sci-fi twist and a social conscience.

RAZZO PIZZA NAPOLETANA

59 Great Junction Street, razzopizza.co.uk

Razzo is the pizza connoisseur’s choice. Delivery drivers buzz in and out but you won’t care. Also at Edinburgh Street Food.

SAN CIRO’S

148 Leith Walk, sanciros.com

Napoli rules at San Ciro’s. Come for the Neapolitan-style pizzas with classic toppings and share hot arancini or crisp calamari while you wait.

Also try . . . tasty Neapolitan-style pizza from Matto Pizza in Newington, Morningside, Shandwick Place or (takeaway only) Meadowbank; Pizza Pilgrims on Rose Street for good pizzas and vibes, and Pala in Leith for delicious hot slices

Pomelo

Paesano Pizza

Plant-based

ANTOJITOS CANTINA

Paradise Palms, 41 Lothian Street, instagram.com/antojitoscantina

The latest residence from the team behind Antojitos at Edinburgh Street Food dishes up tacos, quesadillas and other Mexican classics on a 100% plant-based and nut-free adventure. Credible meat substitutes really work, while taco highlights include soya carnitas with a chilli-citrus ping.

HENDERSONS

7–13 Barclay Place, hendersonsrestaurant.com

Veggie with excellent vegan choices, this family-run spot has changed location and passed through generations while turning out reliable food since 1962. Wildflower-speckled dishes of salt-baked celeriac and foraged mushroom risotto don’t just look the part; they prove natural plant-based trumps faux-meat menus any day.

NÓN VIÊT VEGAN

23a Brougham Place, instagram.com/ nonvietvegan

Each flavour pairing and meat substitute is so well considered you’ll hardly notice this place is fully vegan. Summer rolls are light and refreshing, while warming curries and noodle bowls are flavoursome. For lunch, there’s a great selection of banh mi.

THE SLY FOX

16 Henderson Street, instagram.com/slyfoxfood

A haven for vegans and vegetarians with a genuine community vibe. The spicy goulash with potato pancakes is hearty and comforting, and the refried beans quesadilla with homemade pickles is excellent. Raw cakes are a speciality.

SORA DIANA

19–21 Causewayside, thevegansora.com

Sora Diana is a vegan Italian with clear Roman leanings: carbonara and cacio e pepe are all present and correct alongside pinsa (Rome’s oval version of pizza). It’s a strong choice, especially when you want to relax into your meal.

SOUL VEGAN

46 West Richmond Street, soulvegan.uk

With links to Kampong Ah Lee, this wee vegan Malaysian is picture-perfect, with attentive staff and a street-food slanted menu that leans towards deeply warming, homely dishes. Popular with the city’s student population, prices are reasonable.

Also try . . . David Bann Restaurant for traditional dishes in a comfy setting, FacePlant Foods for hangover-busting mac’n’cheeze and Novapizza Vegan Kitchen for fine vegan pizza

Seafood

BARRY FISH

62 Shore, barryfish.co.uk

Justifiably lauded since its arrival in 2025, Barry Bryson’s calm and stylishly designed space presents an unapologetically fish-forward menu, with house-smoked eel or local crab flan among smaller sharing plates. At dinner, try lobster agnolotti in a smooth bisque-like brown butter sauce with the pleasing zip of pickled fennel.

FIN & GRAPE

19 Colinton Road, finandgrape.com

Unpretentious Southside neighbourhood bistro with carefully crafted fish dishes to share along with a daily market special and some exceptional wines. The bar menu tilts to Mediterranean tinned fish choices along with nibbles and sides.

FISHERS LEITH

1 Shore, fishersrestaurants.co.uk/fishers-leith Fishers balances special occasion surroundings with laid-back service and precision cooking. Whether it’s a whole lemon sole or just one of the ‘Fishers Favourites’ such as mussels and fries at the bar, this is a restaurant for all seasons. There’s a sister restaurant up town too.

THE FISHMARKET NEWHAVEN

23a Pier Place, Newhaven, thefishmarketnewhaven.co.uk

Overlooking the harbour and with Welch Fishmongers next door, this white-and-emeraldtiled diner captures a fresh-from-the-sea essence like nowhere else. Stop in for chowder or grilled langoustines, or join the locals picking up fish and chips to eat outside as the sun sets over the Forth.

THE SHIP ON THE SHORE

24–26 Shore, theshipontheshore.co.uk

The cobbled quay, the salty tavern vibe, the chalkboard specials and the groaning platters: The Ship On The Shore does quintessential old-school seafood dining formidably well. Its wide-ranging menu offers dressed crab, lobster thermidor and whole roast trout as well as sharing seafood platters or paella.

WHITE HORSE OYSTER & SEAFOOD BAR

266 Canongate, whitehorseoysterbar.co.uk

A compelling city centre option that works for cocktails and fresh oysters, a combo meal of small plates or splashing out on a hot shellfish platter. The décor is simple and sleek, with dishes to match: think buttermilk cod, hake ceviche, crab Scotch egg.

Also try . . . the beach barbecue-inspired cooking at Dulse in Leith or the West End (see page 35), excellent fish at Leftfield (see page 32) and the seafood-oriented, ten-course tasting menu at Lyla (see page 65)

Fin & Grape

Sunday Roasts

ARDFERN

10–12 Bonnington Road, ardfern.uk

As you’d expect from a Roberta Hall-McCarron venture, the Sunday roast here is a cut above: glorious thick slices of beef rump cap, Yorkshire pudding stuffed with ox tongue, cubes of hash browns, glistening roasted carrot, hispi cabbage and rainbow chard. A roast for a special occasion.

HAWKSMOOR

23 West Register Street, thehawksmoor.com

The interior is reminiscent of a well-heeled 1920s New York steakhouse but you don’t have to earn like a Wall Street banker to enjoy the roast. Prime cuts of meat in rich gravy, served with classic sides; a great way to sample their dryaged beef without the price tag.

THE RAEBURN

112 Raeburn Place, theraeburn.com

For big groups and those with kids, the roomy dining space here is a strong option. Plenty of gravy coats generous slices of sirloin (cooked to your preference) with huge fluffy Yorkshires, honey-roasted carrots and crunchy roasties. Chicken supreme and nut roast options are also available.

The Spanish Butcher

ROSELEAF

23–24 Sandport Place, roseleaf.co.uk

Purists might be disappointed that the beef comes fully cooked in the middle, but there’s no denying the trimmings are exactly as they should be. Laid-back Sunday feels with chichi teapot cocktails flowing and craft pints.

THE SPANISH BUTCHER

58a North Castle Street, spanishbutcher.com/edinburgh

Not the most obvious spot for a quintessentially British roast, but they serve a banger, helped by Galician beef (high-fat and flavoursome) and an Iberian understanding of flavour (lavish with the salt and hot on the coals).

THE VOYAGE OF BUCK

29–31 William Street, thevoyageofbuckedinburgh.co.uk

Inky blue walls and atmospheric lighting trigger a sigh of relaxation here. A generous slice of tender beef is the right side of pink, with silky gravy, beautifully seasoned potato terrine, fat puffy Yorkshire pudding and quality veg from a kitchen that knows how to treat it.

Also try . . . comedy club/restaurant combo The Gilded Saloon, Stockbridge stalwart The Antiquary and newcomer Le Petit Beefbar on George Street for more smashing roasts

Ardfern

Cocktail Bars

Edinburgh’s cocktail scene is firmly on the global map with the city’s best bars regularly making it into various top 50 and top 100 lists of those in the know. It’s not just hype. Panda & Sons, the original Edinburgh speakeasystyle cocktail bar, has secured a place on many a ‘best’ list since it opened in 2013, thanks to the team’s constant commitment to experimentation. The good news is that it’s just one of many venues you can explore.

Bramble is often credited with being the bar that kickstarted the scene, but Edinburgh’s bartenders aren’t resting on the laurels of reputation. Lucky Liquor, from the same folk as Bramble and Stockbridge’s The Last Word (page 38), has a deliberately tiny back-bar. This encourages a less-is-more attitude to mixology, resulting in some of Scotland’s best (and most consistent) cocktails. Meanwhile, low ceilings, low lighting and late nights are the order of the day at Uno Mas: it’s no surprise some of the city’s bartenders head here at the end of their shifts.

With the bar set high, even the city centre’s hotels have raised their game, with locations such as Joao’s Place in the W Edinburgh and Commons Club in the Old Town’s Virgin Hotel both offering memorable settings and a serious approach to serving top-notch drinks.

Ultimately, the key to a thriving scene is its variety. Want to do a deep dive into the Negroni? Head to either Hey Palu, where co-owner Alex Palumbo brings a taste of the Amalfi Coast to the city centre, or to Bittersweet in Leith, where Italian brothers Fabrizio and Simone keep the drinks on track.

Looking for niche spirits? Folly Spirit Lab near Waverley Station has tasting flights of eau de vie (including their own house-made version from locally scrumped apples) and a sake list to boot. Or how about a bar reminiscent of Paris in the belle époque? At the West End, Encore’s sultry lighting and sumptuous fabrics will see you right. Prefer something simpler yet stylish? The Wildcat (page 21) near Tollcross is the place to head.

Even the Viking theme of Old Town newcomer Sköll & Hati manages to bring a novel twist without being too ridiculous. Because, let’s face it, a great bar is where you’re discovering good drinks and a good time, whatever your vibe.

Clockwise from left: Sköll & Hati, Uno Mas, Panda & Sons, Bittersweet

Taprooms

BELLFIELD BREWERY & TAPROOM

46 Stanley Place, bellfieldbrewery.com

With a large indoor bar plus a shanty town of outdoor wooden booths, this spot is both dog and kid-friendly, hosting pop-up food offerings and serving excellent craft vegan and gluten-free beers brewed on-site.

CAMPERVAN BREWERY TAPROOM

112 Jane Street, campervanbrewery.com/our-taproom

Established in 2017, this brewery in an industrial estate is one of the area’s longest running. Yes, the beer garden is in a car park, but it’s a convivial set-up where dogs and kids are welcome. If you only try one, make it the gluten-free Nitro Porter Extra Black.

MOONWAKE TAPROOM

6a Tower Street, moonwakebeer.com/pages/taproom

This taproom is like stepping into a pop art painting. From the mezzanine, view the bright, graphic walls and mechanics of the brewing process below, or snag a table in the beer garden. Both are nut-free zones, dogfriendly, wheelchair accessible and kid-friendly to 6pm.

NEWBARNS

13 Jane Street, newbarnsbrewery.com Newbarns’ oddly shaped taproom literally funnels you

towards the bar. It’s a quirk that adds to the charm of the place, which has all the trappings of an ideal drinking destination: barrels for standing round, small tables for quiet pints, a billiard table and dartboard.

VESSEL

73 Hanover Street, vesselbars.co.uk

Less a taproom, more an uptown hangout for fans of community-spirited Leith brewery Pilot. The bar has a decent food menu with smart snacks and mains such as grilled sausage with bean ragù. Pilot beers on draught, in cans, and served half and half with a dram.

THE WEE VAULT

7a West Maitland Street, vaultcity.co.uk

This quirky, narrow tasting room and bottle shop is one of the smallest in Edinburgh. A beacon for beer lovers, there are more taps than seats with 24 on at any time. There’s also a fridge full of cans for takeaway.

Also try . . . The Rusty Seagull on Portobello High Street, a city outpost for East Lothian’s Winton Brewing. Further out, beyond the bypass, is Stewart Brewing for quality beer and fresh wood-fired pizza. Back in town, The Keller Taproom on Broughton Street Lane may not have direct brewery affiliation, but it offers a great selection of craft beers on tap

Wine Bars

Pickles Of Broughton Street

GOOD BROTHERS WINE CELLARS

34 Northumberland Street, goodbrothers.co.uk

The team here are super knowledgeable but far from wine bores. And if you want to geek out on vintages, they’re here for it, especially on Thursdays when you can try something special from the cellar at cost price.

ONE20 WINE CAFÉ

120 Dundas Street, one-20.co.uk

One of the few places on Dundas Street where you can sit outside, One20’s selection of Slovenian, Sicilian and Loire Valley whites are perfect on sunny days. There’s also a cicchetti selection, plus Italianfocused lunch and evening menus.

PICKLES

OF BROUGHTON STREET

60 Broughton Street, getpickled.co.uk

Pickles is all about the wine and the cheese, surely the world’s greatest pairing. Dimly lit and atmospheric, boards are piled high with locally sourced cured meats, cheeses and (of course) homemade pickles to accompany a vast wine list.

SMITH & GERTRUDE

26 Hamilton Place & 254 Portobello High Street, smithandgertrude.com

These gorgeous neighbourhood wine bars in Stockbridge and Portobello have a relaxed vibe, with expert staff and interesting wine choices. While you can simply pop in for a glass, the real fun lies in the wine flights with artisanal cheese pairings, a brilliant way to expand your palate.

SPRY

1 Haddington Place, sprywines.co.uk

The focus at Spry is on natural and organic wines by the glass. Pull up a stool at the bar or find a cosy corner; elegant small plates can be built into a fivecourse tasting menu with matching wines.

ZERO ZERO WINES

18 South Clerk Street, zerozerowines.co.uk

Natural wine and funky ferments are the order of the day here. The name is a nod to the amount of intervention, so it’s one for wine adventurers. Try something unusual while snacking on charcuterie, olives and prettily packaged tinned fish.

Also try . . . new kid on the block Leith Wine Kitchen, brilliant neighbourhood spot Little Rascal in Corstorphine or Bacaro42’s Venetian focus in Stockbridge

Whisky Bars

THE

ABBEY WHISKY BAR

65 South Clerk Street, abbeybar.co.uk

With up to 700 whiskies on the back bar, including a selection of their own single-cask bottlings, The Abbey is a fine place for a dram. Or maybe try a flight curated by region, age, decade or distillery, or groupings like blends and grains.

ATHLETIC ARMS

1–3 Angle Park Terrace, athleticarms.co.uk

Better known as Diggers, this Polwarth institution likes its sport, showing everything from darts to dogs. It has a wonderful whisky offering at great prices and when you see folks in hi-vis and suits in the same bar, you know you’ve found a melting pot.

THE BELFRY

1–3 Barclay Place, thebelfryedinburgh.co.uk

A bar for locals as well as whisky enthusiasts, their selection of around 100 bottles may be small but it’s well curated. Featuring one-of-a-kind and independent bottlings, sought out from auction sites, the ethos is to offer good drams that you might not find elsewhere.

THE BLACK CAT

168 Rose Street, facebook.com/theblackcatbaredinburgh

Claiming to be the only independent public house on Rose Street, this modest one-roomed pub’s size belies its heft as a whisky bar. With over 250 bottles on the back bar and monthly highlights, it’s also an energetic spot, with live folk music three nights a week.

CAFÉ ROYAL

19 West Register Street, cafe.royaledinburgh.com

This classic pub (with adjoining oyster bar, famous for its shellfish, stained glass and ceramic tiles) has an excellent whisky list, representing all the regions of Scotland, with a nod to the rest of the world and helpful highlighted dram suggestions for the indecisive.

PORT OF LEITH DISTILLERY BAR

11 Whisky Quay, leithdistillery.com/the-distillery-bar

A smart skyline bar above the UK’s first vertical distillery, its industrial chic is a far cry from the old-man vibes of more traditional whisky bars. The views from the ninth floor are outstanding. So too are the whiskies (flights are available), cocktails and small plates.

Also try . . . Diggers’ newly opened sister pub, Diggers Leith, which continues the Polwarth formula, either of the two Teuchters bars (West End and Leith) or The Last Word in Stockbridge (page 38)

Port Of Leith Distillery Bar

Whisky Experiences

AMBER RESTAURANT & WHISKY BAR

354 Castlehill, scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk

As the whisky bar within the Scotch Whisky Experience, Amber has an understandably formidable range of around 500 whiskies. If that makes choosing hard, the team curates a special selection every month and can create bespoke flights based on flavour or themes like rare or limited editions.

EXPLORERS’ BOTHY BAR

145 Princes Street, johnniewalker.com

The Johnnie Waker Experience offers an engaging intro to the spirit, but if you already know your stuff head to the top-floor Explorers’ Bothy Bar. It has 150 rare bottlings from Diageo’s 28 Scottish distilleries, tutored tastings and whisky cocktail pairings with small plates.

KALEIDOSCOPE

28 Queen Street, smws.com

To drink in one of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society’s bars, you usually need to be a member (or the guest of one). Kaleidoscope is the exception, open to all. Drams are sold under the society’s own coding system for bottlings, with the emphasis on flavour rather than the traditional focus on region, style or age.

SCOTCH

1 Princes Street, roccofortehotels.com

The whisky bar at The Balmoral displays 500 or so bottles in a handcrafted oak cabinet, making an impressive initial statement of intent. With soft chairs and sofas, it’s more gentlemen’s club than traditional bar and uniformed staff will guide you through tasting experiences. Alternatively seek out their monthly whisky events featuring guest distilleries and bottles.

TIPSY MIDGIE

67 St Leonards Hill, tipsymidgie.com

Colin Hinds’ whisky bar near the Pleasance manages to convey all the romance of the water of life without the hokum. With suggested drams, tastings and late-night, tutored whisky flights, this is a bar where they’ll take you by the hand and guide you through the myths to find a whisky you actually like.

Also try . . . Ghillie’s Pantry at 100 Princes Street where the boutique hotel’s whisky ambassador will take you through some of their private collection’s rarest drams. It’s very spendy, but arguably worth it if you’re really into whisky

Overlooking the breathtaking Lunan Bay on Scotland’s Angus coast, Arbikie offers one of the country’s most distinctive distillery experiences. Family-owned and deeply connected to the land it farms, Arbikie is a field to bottle distillery−growing its own crops before crafting innovative, sustainable, award-winning spirits.

Crowned ‘World Sustainable Distillery of the Year 2026’ at the Icons of Whisky Awards, Arbikie continues to push boundaries. With the upcoming release of its inaugural Single Malt Scotch Whisky, visitors can explore its pioneering approach to spirit-making while sampling an exceptional range of Scottish gins, vodkas, climate positive spirits, and whisky.

Experience the very best of Scottish hospitality in the elegant Kirkwood or Stirling Suite, join an immersive distillery tour, or take part in a hands-on cocktail masterclass.

For those wishing to linger a little longer, Arbikie offers luxurious on-site accommodation. Eight striking mirrored ÖÖD houses , each complete with a hot tub or sauna, invite guests to fully immerse themselves in the beautiful surrounding landscape.

Whether for an unforgettable day trip or a truly memorable stay, Arbikie is an experience like no other.

Out Of Town: North Of The Forth

BAERN

Bowhouse, St Monans, baern.co.uk

Baern’s menu sings of the East Neuk’s seasonal larder. Sourcing ingredients from East Neuk Market Garden, Scotland The Bread and Butchery At Bowhouse, all on the same site, daily menus are hyper-local and delicious. The kitchen aims for zero waste, so fermented and pickled ingredients often star.

GIDDY GANNET

10 Station Road, St Monans, instagram.com/giddygannet

A cute seaside café whose savoury scones are a speciality; perhaps a lemon, dill and caper option with cream cheese and hot smoked salmon. Run by two brothers, the carrot cake, made to their mum’s recipe, has a bit of a cult following.

THE KINNEUCHAR INN

9–11 Main Street, Kilconquhar, kinneucharinn.com

Pretty 17th-century hostelry with inherent style and an easy-going vibe. A field-to-fork philosophy is evident in lovingly crafted dishes, with much of the produce from neighbouring Balcaskie Estate. This place has heart and soul stamped right through it.

THE MERCAT

The Cross, Culross, the-mercat.com

A gorgeous café from the team behind The Dundonald guesthouse. Generously filled sourdough baguettes come with house pickles, and earl greysoaked fruit scones are very special, as is sticky ginger and cardamom cake. The little homeware shop and deli on site are hard to resist.

THE SHOREGATE

67 High Street North, Crail, theshoregate.com Choose from the cosy backroom bar or smart seafacing restaurant: either way, you’re in for a treat. It’s fine dining but not stuffy and servings are generous. Try cod with orzo and shellfish broth or lamb rump with gnocchi. The rooms upstairs are gorgeous too.

THE WEE RESTAURANT

Main Street, North Queensferry, theweerestaurant.co.uk

This family-run place has been quietly doing its thing for almost two decades. They know their way around a steak, but seafood is the real joy here. Try the specials or tuck into Shetland mussels with bacon, basil, pine nuts and parmesan.

Also try . . . Loch Leven’s Larder near Kinross, a big farm shop with a great café, Balgove Larder by St Andrews for a café lunch or visit its Steak Barn, and Town House Deli & Bakery in Falkland for excellent sandwiches and cakes

Baern PICTURE:

Out Of Town: South Of The Forth

BOSTOCK BAKERY

Dunbar Road, East Linton, bostockbakery.co.uk

Artisan bakery focusing on sourdough bread and perfect viennoiserie. The hazelnut pain au chocolat is a classic, and there are also takeaway sandwiches, coffees and a little deli; perfect for picnic supplies. Also in North Berwick.

COMPANY BAKERY CAFÉ

6 Station Road, Musselburgh, companybakery.co.uk

Bright, canteen-style space positioned down one side of their sizeable production unit. Watch the team at work, baking for 200-plus wholesale clients and ensuring the café has a ready supply of reliably exquisite pastries as well as crusty loaves.

DRIFT

Sands Drift, Quarrel, North Berwick, driftalong.co.uk

A café in a former shipping container that would attract customers just for the views but offers much more. Perched on a cliff, come for a crayfish and hot-smoked salmon brioche roll with sea salt fries. Now with on-site sauna.

EVE’S COURT

Papple Steading, Haddington, papple.com

This café is at the heart of an ambitious event space, gallery and accommodation complex. The lunch menu punches high: think poached langoustines with pickled kohlrabi and fermented chilli, or barbecued hen of the woods mushrooms with braised Scottish grains and crisp kale.

THE FREE COMPANY

Cockdurno Farmhouse, Balerno, the-free-company.com

This regenerative farm at the edge of the Pentland Hills has two long tables set for à la carte lunches and dinners, with a sharing feast option available too. Menus reflect the week’s harvest, with meat and veg from the farm in tempting dishes.

THE LEDDIE

West Main Street, Aberlady, theleddie.com

The Leddie (previously Ducks Inn) has settled nicely into Aberlady. The menu is traditional but well executed, serving sweet Shetland mussels with white wine and garlic, or roast chicken, bacon and leek pie. Great beer garden too.

Also try . . . the Garden Café At Archerfield Walled Garden for brunch or hearty lunch; East Coast in Musselburgh for takeaway or sit-in fish and chips; The Lobster Shack in North Berwick for fresh shellfish by the harbour; and nearby Alandas Gelato for ice-cream

The Free Company

INDEX OF TIPLISTS

Nobles By Bellfield

The Spanish Butcher

INDEX OF VENUES

3 Birds Restaurant 32

5 Dumplings 43

10 To 10 In Delhi 30

71 Steps 39

One20 Wine Café 39

181 Delicatessen 33, 62

1820 Rooftop Bar 13

The Abbey Whisky Bar 84

Abbeyhill 43

The Abbotsford 27

Ada 18, 72

Africano Wrap Place 56

Alandas Gelato (Forrest Road) 68

Alandas Gelato (North Berwick) 88

Alby’s (Southside) 14

Alby’s (Leith) 45

The Alchemist 18

Amber 85

Ante 43

The Antiquary 38, 78

Antojitos Cantina 30, 74

Archerfield Walled Garden 88

Ardfern 45, 48, 78

Argile 32

Argyle Place 33

Art And Vintage 43

Artisan Roast (Bruntsfield) 33

Artisan Roast (Little King Street) 21

Athletic Arms 84

Avery 65

Baba 24, 72

Bacaro42 83

Bacco Wine 39

Baern 87

Balgove Larder 87

The Balmoral Hotel 65, 85

The Bami 43

Barry Fish 48, 77

The Basement Bar 16, 40

Beach House 59

Beirut 30

The Belfry 21, 84

Bellfield Brewery & Taproom 80

Bennets Bar 21

Bentoya 16

Bistro Coco 40

Le Bistrot 27

Bittersweet 79

The Black Cat 84

The Black Grape 29

The Blackbird 21

Bodega 22, 66

Bonnie & Wild 15

Bostock Bakery 88

The Bow Bar 13, 27

Bowhouse 87

Bramble 79

Brewhemia 66

The Broughton 40

Broughton Street 40

Brown’s Of Leith 45

Brunswick Book Club 43

The Burrow 27

Café Calton 13

Café Domenico 45, 69

Café Grande 33

Café Royal 13, 84

Café St Honoré 24

Cairngorm Coffee 35

Calton Café see Café Calton 13

Campervan Brewery Taproom 80

Cannonball Restaurant & Bar 29

Canonmills 39

Canopy Kitchen & Courtyard 30

Cappucino Edinburgh

The Fishmarket Newhaven 77

5 Dumplings 43

Flùr 15

Folly Spirits Lab 79

Fred’s Backyard Barbecue 15

The Free Company 88

Frenchie 40

Fruttivendolo 62

Fruitmarket Café 21

Garden Café At Archerfield Walled Garden 88

Garden View Deck & Bar 39

Gateway Café 39

Gautam’s 60

George Mewes Cheese 62

Ghillie’s Pantry 85

Giddy Gannet 87

The Gilded Saloon 30, 78

Gio’s 62

Good Brothers Wine Cellars 83

The Green Room 35

Greenwoods 59

The Gruff Goat 59

The Guildford Arms 13

Gulp Ramen 43

Halfway House 13

The Hanging Bat 16

Harajuku (at ESF) 15

Harajuku Kitchen 32, 71

Hata 39

Hawksmoor 72, 78

Haymarket Station 35

Hendersons 32, 74

Herbie Of Edinburgh 62

Heron 48, 65

Herringbone Goldenacre 39, 62

Herrringbone Abbeyhill 43

Hey Palu 79

House Of Gods 16, 29

Howies 13, 66

Hummus 59

IJ Mellis 33, 62

Ikigai Ramen 73

Inverleith 39

Jeremiah’s Taproom 18

Joao’s Place 13, 79

Joelato 68

Johnnie Walker Princes Street 13, 35, 85

Ka Pao 18

Kabul Kitchen 72

Kahani Indian Street Food 66

Kaleidoscope 85

Kalpna 30

Kampong Ah Lee 14 Kanpai 71

Ka Pao 24

Kate’s 33

Kay’s Bar 38

Kebabish Grill & Steak Restaurant 66

The Keller Taproom 22, 40, 80

Kenji Sushi 71

Khao Boi 22

The Khukuri 60

Khushi’s 30, 60

Kim’s Mini Meals 14

King’s Theatre 21

The King’s Wark 46

The Kinneuchar Inn 87

Kitchen Table By Twelve Triangles 43

Twelve Triangles (Kitchen Table) 43

The Kitchin

Kome Izakaya

& The Bear

Word 38, 79, 84

Brunswick Book Club

Nàdair

A fully updated guide from The List’s Eat & Drink team showcasing the best in restaurants, bars, cafés and more across Edinburgh

Discover the best of Edinburgh’s hospitality with our TipLists: curated recommendations for eating and drinking across different themes, styles of food and areas of the city. With inspiring and handy recommendations for over 365 venues, you’ll find options for every mood, every season and every single day of the year.

• Over 50 TipLists from Street Food & Markets to Fine Dining, Breakfast & Brunch to Kebabs & Shawarma

• Packed with reliable insight from a team that follow the scene all year-round

• Independently researched and updated for 2026