Dundee Larder

Larder Dundee

THE GUIDE TO THE FOOD & DRINK OF THE CITY

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LIVE WELL WITH HEART SPACE DUNDEE

Organic Grocery Store with Juice Bar

“Dedicate d to health a nd wellbeing inside & o ut The Courier

Fresh, daily deliveries from the area’s finest food producers.

Find a great selection of cupboard essentials suitable for all specialist diets including vegan, gluten free and paleo.

DISCOVER US IN DOWNTOWN DUNDEE Heart Space Whole Foods Exchange Street, DD1 3DJ Tel: 01382 669352 www.wholefoods.heartspacedundee.co.uk

Our Juice Bar serves fresh juices made to order, using organic fruit and vegetables and nothing else

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Italian Grill

INTRODUCTION Welcome to the Dundee Larder. It’s a guide to the contemporary food scene in Dundee and an introduction to the people and places that are shaping and defining Dundee’s emergence as a place to discover great food and drink. From indy cafés to stylish diners, go-ahead greengrocers to brilliant bakers, we’ve tried to capture the flavours of the city in stories, images, tips and insights. There are also independently compiled listings of the city’s best cafés, bistros, bars and restaurants too. Check out food.list.co.uk for even more recommendations – and happy eating.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This guide has been developed by The List working in partnership with Dundee – One City, Many Discoveries. The editors would like to thank Jennie Patterson for her determined support for the project, as well as Claire Jessiman for her suggestions.

Editors Donald Reid, Sarah Milne Editorial Assistance Claire Ritchie Design & Production Simon Armin, Jen Devonshire Writing & research Martha Bryce, Emily Dewhurst, Anna Millar, David Pollock, Claire Smith, Stuart Vettese, Lorraine Wilson Additional Research Jacqueline Meldrum, Gemma Millar

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Cover Clark’s Bakery © Dundee – One City, Many Discoveries Map © Crown Copyright and database right 2015.

Photography Craig Stephen, Dylan Drummond, Paul Glennie, Rachel Stott @ Another Studio, Zoe Barrie @ photosbyzoe, Abertay University, Dundee – One City, Many Discoveries

The Dundee Larder is part of The Larder series of food and drink publications thelarder.net

Larder Director Peter Brown Publishers Robin Hodge, Simon Dessain © 2015 The List Ltd ISBN: 978-0-9557513-7-0 Extensive efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this publication, however the publishers can accept no responsibilty for any errors it may contain.

Published by The List Ltd 14 High Street, Edinburgh EH1 1TE, 0131 550 3050 Printed and bound by Stephens & George

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CONTENTS

WHAT’S IN THE DUNDEE LARDER? We’ve packed a lot in to these 48 pages – here are some of the highlights

Dundee’s Food Districts

The Brew Crew

Discover the flavours of different parts of Dundee. From page 8.

Say cheers to the city’s pubs, bars and local ales on page 15.

Daily Grind

Being Scene

Find the cultured cafés and coffee hot spots around the city, page 10.

Meet the new venues energising eating out in Dundee. See page 12.

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CONTENTS

Some Finer Dining Seek out the places setting the standard for Dundee’s dining revival. See page 4.

Where to Buy

Of Cakes and Bakes

The city’s small and specialist food and drink shops. From page 27.

Introducing some of the local bakers on the rise. See page 5.

CONTENTS

Where to Eat Our selection of the city’s best bistros, restaurants and cafés. From page 31.

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Food Features 4 Food Districts 8, 13, 16, 23 City Map 24 Where to Buy 27 Where to Eat 31 Events & Markets 47 Index 48 DUNDEE LARDER 3

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DINING SCENE

INDEPENDENCE CITY

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DISCOVER DUNDEE’S SCOTTISH STARS

n the past couple of years, Dundee has seen a surge of new food and drink openings, from stylish contemporary restaurants to smart cafés and specialist food shops. Unlike many cities in the UK, Dundee’s rise hasn’t seen a deluge of chains arriving: while some have made their way to the city, the real force behind the new food movement has been independent businesses. Even the city’s longerestablished enterprises have picked up on the sense of rejuvenation, introducing dynamic business ideas but still proudly emphasising their owner-run credentials and Dundee heritage.

Local food is very much part of the picture too, with the neighbouring regions of Angus, Perthshire and Fife prime sources of beef, game, fish, vegetables, berries and honey, offering plenty for enterprising chefs to get to work with (see panel). But good quality, imagination and a youthful energy can be found elsewhere too, whether in steakhouses keen to show off their charcoal grills or coffee houses picking up on the latest speciality roaster. The repeating BRIDGEVIEW STATION message is that an exciting era for food (Riverside Drive, DD1 4DB) and drink has arrived in town, and it’s With its winning location the locals who are taking inspiration overlooking the Tay, this from it and embracing it. menu delivers Scotland on a plate.

BRUACH (328 Brook Street, Broughty Ferry, DD5 2AN) Casual food in the bar, with something a little more formal in the upstairs restaurant.

CASTLEHILL (22-26 Exchange Street, DD1 3DL) The standard bearer for progressive, contemporary Scottish dining in the city.

COLLINSONS RESTAURANT (122–124 Brown Street, DD5 1EN) Shellfish, game and more in Broughty Ferry.

THE D’ARCY THOMPSON (21–23 Old Hawkhill, DD1 5EU) A striking interior and some clever cooking with Scottish influences.

THE PLAYWRIGHT (11 Tay Square, DD1 1PB) The pioneer of modern Scottish in the city, with some excellent local sourcing.

Castlehill

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INDY SHOPS

KNEAD TO KNOW Dundee has a rich seam of family bakers with branches across the city and surrounding area. Goodfellow & Steven, established in 1897 in Broughty Ferry, makes a speciality of celebration cakes, while Fisher & Donaldson is a classy craft bakery with headquarters just over the Tay in Fife. Their specialities include fudge doughnuts and little sponge cakes wrapped in a ‘bandage’ of greaseproof paper known as ‘Sair Heids’ (sore heads).

Jonathan Clark, who runs the family business Clark’s Bakery with his father Alan, believes people want local, familyrun businesses to do well in Dundee, and have faith in what they produce. ‘There’s a sense that you’re getting not just experience and familiarity, but also really good, locally sourced food. It’s NT ab about looking at what went before, but equally, A W E PEOPL MILY-RUN w we try hard to always be thinking ahead.’

A

K CLAR THAN JONA RK’S BAKERY

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CLA

The Cheesery

JA J A Br Braithwaite

J BRAITHWAITE (6 Castle JA S Street, DD1 3AF) The city’s o oldest shop, selling loose tea a and freshly ground coffee beans.

FRASER’S FRUIT AND VEG ((300a Perth Road, DD2 1AN) Proper greengrocer selling local fruit and veg alongside o other deli products.

T THE CHEESERY (9 Exchange S Street, DD1 3DJ) Dorothy Hegarty’s cheesemonger has a range of regional and c continental artisan cheeses.

HEART SPACE WHOLE FOODS (29 Exchange St, DD1 3DJ) Specialist in locally sourced produce as well as for organic, vegan and gluten-free diets.

VISOCCHI’S (40 Gray Street, DD5 2BJ) Award-winning icecreams, with a takeaway and café, in Broughty Ferry.

DISCOVER DUNDEE’S INDY SHOPS

,F O LOCAL ESSES TO D E IN E S D BU IN DUN WELL

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FRUIT & VEG

VENDING THE RULES It’s a farm-gate honesty box with a twist. Anna Millar finds out about Scotland’s first tattie vending operation

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rom the family farm near Meigle in East Perthshire, cousins Euan and Peter Grewar have helped Dundee lead the field in exploring new ways for shoppers to connect with the food grown on their doorstep. Scotland’s first modern vending machine selling seasonal fruit and veg has been installed right in the heart of the city within the Overgate shopping centre, and they have two more at farms around Dundee, with plans for more in the pipeline.

‘We We were all about wholesale,’ explains Peter Grewar, ‘but people would still come to the farm asking for potatoes and the like, so we wondered how we could do direct sales wo THE M in an interesting way. That’s when we IS FILL ACHINE ED EV tthought about a spin on the honesty box, E MORN and tried out the vending machines.’

ING W RY I TH POTAT Each machine is filled every morning O ES FREE-R with packs of potatoes, boxes of freeANGE , E AND B rrange eggs and mixed boxes of veg, and OXES GGS OF FRESH Grewar believes people enjoy the roundG VEG the-clock appeal of it, as well as knowing th that everything is fresh and properly local.

■ grew grewar.com

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ALL SOUPED UP A presence on the emerging Perth Road food and drink scene for more than five years, Fraser’s Fruit and Veg has a new success story: soups.

Owner Fraser Reid’s soup bags, each containing the ingredients for a pot of imaginative soup, have proved so popular that the forwardthinking greengrocer has put pen to paper with a book celebrating his 52 favourite recipes. Titled Fraser’s Seasonal Soups, it is published

by Dundee’s own illustrated cookbook specialists Kitchen Press. Reid explains the ethos behind it: ‘I wanted to encourage people to cook with good, fresh produce, with a view that they mightt then go on and use those skills and ingredients to learn to make other things.

The soup was really about showing people what they could do.’ (Anna Millar)

■ frasersfruitandveg.co.uk; kitchenpress.co.uk

CLEMENTINE OF BROUGHTY FERRY Colourful greengrocer and deli run by Jan McTaggart and Carole Sommervile. See page 29.

FRASER’S FRUIT AND VEG Fraser Reid’s lovingly stocked go-to for discerning food lovers, embracing all things local, with a sprinkling of items from further afield. See page 29.

G GREWAR FARM Bringing lo local potatoes and veg to the he heart of the city via a vending m machine in the Overgate Ce Centre.

H HEART SPACE WHOLE FO FOODS The ethos of Ian Al Alexander and Finlay Wilson is to put better health and wellbe being at the centre of their bu business, specialising in fruit an and veg, smoothies and juices.

S e page 28.

See

DISCOVER DUNDEE’S FRUIT & VEG

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FRUIT & VEG

ole Foods Heart Space Wh DUNDEE LARDER 7

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FOOD DISTRICTS

CITY FOOD DISTRICTS Capturing the flavour of the city’s tastier quarters Heart Space Whole Foods

CITY CENTRE

by Claire Smith

Dundee’s good food renaissance starts right in the heart of the city centre. It wasn’t so long ago that you’d have to hunt hard for good food options in the downtown area, but in the last few years it has felt as if each new opening has served to encourage another, pushing standards upwards all the time.

It’s on and around Exchange Street that’s now recognised as the epicentre of Dundee’s good food vibe. Alongside specialist shops The Cheesery and Heart Space Whole Foods are quirky cafés and modern Scottish restaurant Castlehill, where you might find chicken served with marmalade, carrot and charred lettuce.

With its clean, modern interior and appealing outdoor dining space, the Italian Grill brings some glamour to City Square, the urban plaza adjacent to the imposing Caird Hall. Alongside, the welcoming Henry’s Coffee House occupies the left-hand side of City Square and is ideal for a quick lunch.

Further up towards the McManus Galleries and the High School, the arrival of Europe’s first Project Pie on Reform Street brings together canteen-style seating, enthusiastic staff and a chance to construct your own pizza in a smart, popular venue.

As the waterfront project continues to transform the city centre, the Malmaison hotel with its sophisticated brasserie has a prominent position at the end of Whitehall Crescent. The appealing mix of old and new is borne out by its nearby neighbours, which range from the retro Palais Tea Room to the rough and ready friendliness of True Kitchen, the sophistication of The Wine Press wine bar to the exotic thrill of Japanese newcomer Kobee.

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Scotland’s Larder guides to the

Food and Drink of Scotland

Independently selected by our award-winning editorial team with over 2,500 entries covering: • cheese makers, smokeries, fruit growers, brewers, distillers, ice-cream makers and more • butchers, bakers, fishmongers, farm shops and farmers’ markets • restaurants, bistros and cafés Geo-coded so you can select places close to where you are and designed for use on mobiles and other devices.

thelarder.net

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the

Larder

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COFFEE, TEA AND CAKES

CULTURED CAFES A spirited fightback against the indentikit high street can be seen in Dundee’s independent cafés, as Anna Millar reports

Folk Café

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t was a decade ago that Dundee enjoyed its first dash of indy café culture with the arrival of the Parlour Café on West Port. With an emphasis on fresh food, delicious home baking and veggie options, Gillian Veal’s stylish wee venture tapped into the area’s student population and locals’ love of culture, from music to art to good books. It has recently been joined by a sister venue, the Folk Café on Nethergate, a larger space able to host art exhibitions and occasional live music nights.

The Palais Tea Room on Union Street takes its name from the city’s former dance hall. Aware of locals getting tired of national coffee chains, proprietor Paula Schweikert says she ‘liked the idea of going back to the 50s and 60s’, creating some quirky talking points all around the interior. ‘Our aim was to bring a bit of nostalgia back to Dundee and to share our love of all things vintage, music and tearooms.’

In the downtown area the shabby-chic charm of T Ann Cake has its own quirky appeal. Ann Rougvie started baking for farmers’ markets before star ED transferring operations to a new bakeshop and tr IT TAPPHE café, serving up homemade granary bread, c INTO T LOVE scones, tarts, treats and cakes. s S’ LOCALSIC, ART On Perth Road, owner of Espress Oh! U M F O OD Coffee Shop Barry Thomson lives by the ethos C AND GO that th ‘Life’s Too Short for Bad Coffee’. He offers K O BO S a choice of brews each day along with loose leaf ch teas and a eclectic homemade cakes.

■ For det details of venues see listings from page 31

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A HOME FOR THE BIG BAIRN There’s nothing sadder than when the shutters go down on a much-loved local institution. When news arrived that Douglas Hill’s book emporium Big Bairn Books would close, Dundonians gave a collective sigh – only to raise a cheer when fellow independent, Madigan’s Food Emporium, stepped d into the fray to reveal their tearoom and deli would keep the bookshop alive.

Now renamed Madigan’s Tearoom & Bookshop, the café offers up a tasty array of sandwiches, cakes and soups, as wellll as the chance to relax and enjoy the books on offer. Wendy Scullin, who runs the tearoom, says customers are enjoying the extra twist on the original café design: ‘We thought the books would make an interesting addition. We still function as a tearoom, but it’s nice to see people come in to enjoy the books now too.’ (Anna Millar)

■ Madigan’s Tearoom & Bookshop, page 33

Hugh’s Pla ce

EMPIRE STATE COFFEE (36-38 Nethergate, DD1 4ET) Worth seeking out for quality coffee, cooling drinks, snacks and lunches.

FORTE CAFÉ (98 Dura Street, DD4 6TE) Away from the centre and a step back in time for frothy coffee, proper sundaes, and sweets in jars.

HENRY’S COFFEE HOUSE (22-26 Seagate, DD1 2EQ and 4 City Square, DD1 3BA) Popular local coffee options serving breakfast rolls as well as sandwiches and a good range of cakes.

GRACIE’S (175 Brook Street, DD5 1DJ) Bright and airy spot on the coffee shop block in Broughty Ferry.

HUGH’S PLACE (75 Perth Road, DD1 4HY) Small but cleverly formed coffee house offering light lunches and homemade cakes.

DISCOVER DUNDEE’S COFFEE

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COFFEE, TEA AND CAKES

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INTERNATIONAL

SAY AYE TAE AN AMERICAN PIE David Pollock investigates two restaurants that are making fast food better

PROJECT PIE Billing themselves as the UK’s first ‘design, build and eat pizza eatery’, Project Pie is the first British branch of a chain which was started in America by entrepreneur James Markham, who has launched similar concepts in Seattle and California. The idea is to balance fast food with fresh produce, with the pizza dough prepared by in-house chefs every day. It’s served thinly spread on an 11-inch paddle to the customer, who then goes down the line, selecting their own toppings.

‘We offer six different cheeses and eight different meats,’ says store manager Forbes Howie. ‘Everything from prosciutto to spicy fennel pork sausage. Our vegetables include artichokes, roasted Brussel sprouts and fresh rocket or kale, and you can have as much of whatever you want on it for the same price.’ This last aspect has been a particular winner with customers, and the Project’s success in Dundee, it’s hoped by the franchise holders, will bring them further outlets around Scotland before long.

■ 48–54 Reform Street, projectpie.co.uk

MEATHOUSE M P Pitched somewhere between a b and a restaurant, Dundee’s bar M Meathouse has perfectly captured 2 2015’s trend for typically American styles of eating and drinking, while making good use of the quality local produce available. The steaks and burgers use meat from grass-fed cows which has been hung for 21 days, while the alcohol list includes 20 bottled US, UK and international craft beers, a fistful of classic American cocktails and the increasingly popular pickleback, a Stateside invention which sees a shot of bourbon chased by a shot of brine to surprisingly pleasant effect.

■ 2–8 Perth Road, meathouse.co.uk

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FOOD DISTRICTS

WEST END

by Claire Smith

Dundee’s west end should come with a ‘not just for students’ disclaimer.

Although home to large chunks of university campus and the vast majority of the city’s under 30s, the Perth Road isn’t just for grabbing some chips while stumbling out of the student union.

The DCA (Dundee Contemporary Arts) is a landmark in more ways than one, offering a cultural and culinary hub at the gateway to the West End area. Within, Jute Café Bar provides the whole package: after-work drinks, a romantic dinner, quick coffee or bar snacks with friends. At the first hint of sunshine, the entire bar decamps outside to the terrace.

Moving up South Tay Street, The Playwright beside the Rep theatre offers an assured, attractive venue for more upmarket dining, the Mandarin Garden is a wonderful Chinese with revolving tables for sharing food, while Avery & Co brings an upbeat, family-friendly attitude to a range of international dishes. Gathered around the West Port, the Parlour Café is queen bee, but there’s a buzz about venues such as the West House, the D’Arcy Thompson, Jushi and The Tinsmith.

Explore the Perth Road and you’ll find a bit of everything, from pubs and bars to tearooms and cafés, along with city gems such as the Agacan, under the same ownership since the early 1980s and an entertaining mix of artistic flair and traditional Turkish cuisine.

Visiting Perth Road during the day is a leisurely experience, with plenty of small independent shops to wander round. Fraser’s Fruit and Veg offers delicious fresh produce for the home cook, while Hugh’s Place, The Parrot Café and Espress Oh! Coffee House offer contrasting experiences for a cake and coffee stop. Venture all the way out to Taypark House and you’ll be rewarded with not just an attractive café serving great cakes and lunches in a grand historic setting, but also a chance to sample the city’s first dedicated Gin Bar.

D’Arcy Thompson

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BEER & ALES

HOP TO IT Dundee may have to look to Angus for its closest craft brewers, but they’re making their presence felt in the city, as David Pollock discovers

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reated by former lifeboat coxswain Jim Hughan and his business partner Ross Niven in 2012 as a retirement project for the former, MòR Brewing (based in the village of Kellas, just northeast of Dundee) has expanded far beyond its creators’ original aim of setting up a two-barrel plant to supply local pumps. Within a year they’d doubled the size of the operation, tion, and MòR now supplies bars in Dundee, Edinburgh urgh and Glasgow, while pubs in English cities es TH including Nottingham and Bath have also o BREWEY’VE taken orders.

ED A ALE MòR produces five regular ales – TO FO IN TRIBUN T including the pale bitter MòR Tea, MICH LK MUSIC E Vicar?, MòR-ish ale and MòR Please!

IAN AEL M CALL ARRA bitter – along with two rotating seasonal E ‘HERM D lines and their most recent project is an ale LESS’ brewed in tribute to the late folk musiciann Michael Marra. ‘It’s called “Hermless”, ss”, which is taken from the lyric of one of Marra’s arra’s songs,’ explains Hughan’s daughter Cara. ‘His son came to us and asked us to create it, which was a real honour; he was a local celebrity. It’s a citrusy pale ale with a badge and pump clip designed by his son.’

■ morbrewing.co.uk

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A GREAT DRINKS DISCOVERY As an independent charitable museum trust, Dundee Heritage Trust is always looking for innovative funding streams, and in 2014 Operations Director Mark Munsie created an ale under the RRS Discovery ‘Smoked in History’ label. Brewed in collaboration with Alechemy Ales in Livingston and BrewDog Dundee, it was made using wood from the ship removed during a recent restoration.

A dark, porter-style beer with flavours of chocolate, amber and coffee, it’s available at Discovery Point Museum and at BrewDog Dundee. Also available is Discovery Whisky, a 12-year-old single malt in a jute bag stamped with the mark of the 1901 British Antarctic Expedition led by Captain Scott.

■ rrsdiscovery.com

BrewDog

BREWDOG (Panmure Street, DD1 1ED) Striking premises in Dundee’s listed former Chamber of Commerce building, serving 18 beers on tap.

CLARKS ON LINDSAY STREET (80 North Lindsay Street, DD1 1PS) Now a destination bar with its blend of contemporary interior but oldfashioned pub values.

THE CLEP BAR (96-98 Clepington Road, DD3 7SW) Away from the centre, this traditional bar still has much of its historic interior.

DROUTHY’S (142 Perth Road, Dundee, DD1 4JW) Managing to combine stylish and traditional, with a good range of beers on tap and great menu choices.

FISHERMAN’S TAVERN (12-16 Fort Street, DD5 2AD) Quizzes, folk sessions and charity events make this a real community pub for Broughty Ferry.

THE PHOENIX (103 Nethergate, Dundee, DD1 4DH) Venerable and a bit scruffy, a boisterous, busy, charming local.

DISCOVER DUNDEE’S BEST PUBS

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BEER & ALES

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FOOD DISTRICTS

HTY FERRY BROUbyGCla ire Smith Ahh the Ahh, h F Ferry. Thi This seaside id town attracts the h ffullll spectrum of visitors, from families en route to the park and groups of retired ladies who lunch to teenagers desperate to escape their parents. You’ll see them all here.

First stop for many – young and old – is Visocchi’s. Opened in 1954, this delightful Italian café still sees queues out the door on a summer’s day waiting for an ice-cream crafted by Roberto from traditional recipes handed down through the generations of the Caira family.

There’s something comforting too about a fish supper, and Murray’s is the place for those, while The Ship on the seafront serves bar food with a nautical theme. Also by the sea, and great for a date night or catch-up dinner with friends, Sol Y Sombra is a popular tapas restaurant adding a dash of Spanish sunshine to the silvery Tay. Broughty Ferry’s network of pubs provides a friendly welcome to locals and visitors. A-listers have been spotted in the Fisherman’s Tavern in Fort Street when the Open Golf Championship is on at Carnoustie or St Andrews. Just up the road, the Fort, run by the Black family, hosts regular charity pub quizzes and is a late-night venue on weekends with a DJ. Bruach Bar on Brook Street is popular for its food, and has become known as a great brunch spot.

Jessie’s Kitchen is a popular café set in a garden centre with views over the river, while homely comforts can also be found at Willows Coffee Shop, where big hunks of cake accompany coffee (or milkshakes). A block away along Brown Street the contemporary style of Collinsons Restaurant provides a smart setting for modern Scottish dining.

A short hop back across Brook Street is Gracie’s, which started life as a tapas restaurant but now provides gourmet burgers, house salads and hot dogs. The team behind Gracie’s run regular comedy nights – something a bit different for the Ferry.

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FOOD HERITAGE

STICKY HISTORY Food historian Catherine Brown investigates Dundee’s claim to the origins of marmalade and Dundee Cake

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t’s in the Keiller family archive that proof exists of the city’s claim to be the home of both marmalade and Dundee Cake. Keillers not only developed the ‘chip’ method of making Seville orange marmalade but the founder of the dynasty, Janet Keiller, also created the distinctive all-butter sultana cake, flavoured with their own candied orange peel and topped with whole, blanched Spanish almonds.

Such was the family’s legacy of aiming for quality, that for generations its name in the city was synonymous with the best. Janet Keiller was a great example of the fine Scottish culinary tradition of making better out of good when, in the late 1790s, she transformed thick-paste marmalade – cut with a knife – into a spreadable version with the peel cut into ‘chips’.

Under her roof, in the fashionable Seagate area of the town, she launched the family into large-scale production of artisan products from the confectionery, preserving and cake-baking trades. Two generations on, her grandson Alex would become the key figure in the latter half of the 1800s, when the firm ranked in the trade above Cadbury and Rowntree.

By then, Keillers Dundee marmalade and cake had become standard on breakfast tables and cake-stands in every corner of the UK, the British Empire and beyond. While Keillers led the way, others followed. Many kept true to the original. But some had other ideas.

To the cake some added spices or ‘black jack’, a burnt caramel colouring used to fool eaters into thinking spices had been added.

Glacé cherries, currants, raisins, butter substitutes and most noticeably, sprinkling flaked almonds on top, are among other desecrations.

For some of today’s Dundee bakers the original cake seemed in danger of extinction. Now they are claiming it back for the city and have applied for an EU Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) – see page 21. To celebrate Dundee’s claim to its world-famous cake heritage, let’s hope they succeed.

■ Dundee native Catherine Brown has written many books on Scottish food, most recently ‘Making Better out of Good: Scotland’s National Food and Drink’ published by The Saltire Society, foodinscotland.co.uk

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ROUND THE WORLD

LOOKING EAST

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hinese and Indian restaurants and takeaways may be longestablished staples of most British cities, the majority of them providing equally long-established and familiar styles. Over the decades, Dundee has enjoyed an array of less-conventional and intriguing cuisines from the Far East, sub-continent and elsewhere.

It’s no different today, with the range of international cuisines available in the city broadening to reflect the increasingly confident dining scene.

JAPANESE FOOD

Recent times have seen a stepping up of Japanese food related activity in Dundee after years of doing without, after a Facebook campaign to bring the first restaurant in such a style to the city. First on the scene was Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design graduate Usman Malik’s Oshibori in early 2014, which is located in the basement of Indian restaurant Ashiana, and which serves a variety of typical dishes like ramen, donburi and teriyaki, as well as a wide range of sushi styles using fresh Scottish ingredients.

Not long after came Jushi, a small Westport bar created by local entrepreneur Sasha Amjadi, which – as the name may suggest if you puzzle it out for a bit – offers the distinctive but popular combination of sushi and freshly-made juices. Now the latest addition is Kobee, a bright, modern venue with a bustling open kitchen and an interesting USP. Using two head chefs, it’s both a contemporary Japanese teppanyaki and sushi joint and a more traditional Scottish restaurant serving steak, pizza, pasta and seafood.

Boutique gin and vodka, craft beer and exotic wines are also on the menu.

■ Kobee, 42 Dock Street, kobee.co.uk ■ Oshibori, 162 Nethergate, oshiborirestaurants.co.uk ■ Jushi, 40 Westport, jushi.co.uk 18 DUNDEE LARDER

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ROUND THE WORLD

RISHI’S

■ 11 Hawkhill, rishisdundee.co.uk

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Sol Y Sombra

AGACAN (113 Perth Road, DD1 4JB) A Dundee favourite with a winning formula of simple Turkish dishes at great prices.

CAFÉ SICILIA (123 Perth Road, DD1 4JD) Small, quirky café serving a range of Sicilian dishes.

DIL’SE (99-101 Perth Road, DD1 4JA) Verging on Indian fine dining with various regional offerings.

GULISTAN HOUSE INDIAN RESTAURANT (Queen Street, Broughty Ferry, DD5 2HN) Balti specialities, thali selections and a few unusual specials.

MALABAR (304 Perth Road, DD2 1AU) South Indian cooking with handground spices including good veggie options.

THE MANCHURIAN (15a Gellatly Street, DD1 3DY) Dim sum and adventurous Chinese dishes.

SOL Y SOMBRA (27 Gray Street, DD5 2BH) Broughty Ferry newcomer bringing great Spanish tapas to the city.

DISCOVER THE WORLD IN DUNDEE

Increasingly, the fashion in Indian dining has been not for the typically thickn sauced curries like chicken h tikka masala, which British diners know and love, but y for a more exciting culinary trail into South Indian cooking. Rishi’s offers the best of both worlds, with a range of curries which encompass familiar chicken korma and lamb madras options along with a wide range of idli and dosa dishes.

Both use a combination of rice and lentil flour to create a doughy, cake-like texture, with idli typically dumpling-shaped and served with curried sauce, while dosa are flattened into pancakes and filled with, say, potato masala or dipped in chutney. It’s a style of food that’s catching on fast, but at the moment Rishi’s are the first to break it to the diners of Dundee.

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INNOVATION

FOOD FUTURES Dundee’s reputation as a centre for research extends into the realm of food and drink. Donald Reid found out more

T

he way we eat today, and just as importantly the way food is distributed, marketed and sold, sets an increasingly high value on understanding food in specific ways, from its detailed nutritional profile to its sectored consumer appeal. It’s an area that has seen over 150 small to medium sized businesses in Scotland approach Food Innovation @ Abertay (FIA), Abertay University’s food technology and innovation vation centre – for assistance with new product uct development, product reformulation andd REC consumer research.

HAS S ENT WOR The Division of Food and Life USIN EEN ABE K Sciences at Abertay is already the TECH G EYE-TRA RTAY NOL CKIN largest recruiter of undergraduate DEVE OGY TO H G students in food-related studies in ELP LOP A VODK N the country, and their developing KE A LAB EW EL (Knowledge Exchange) programme allows students to gain practical al experience working with food and drink ink businesses while the companies benefit from contact with researchers, equipment and facilities facilities.

In recent work, FIA have been developing sweet potato crisps with Glasgow-based Hectares, supporting the development of a new range of healthier sausages for Kippen’s Extraordinary Sausage Company, addressing the challenges of drying seaweed with Fife-based Mara Seaweed, using eye-tracking technology to test consumer reaction to labelling for a new vodka brand, and helping Dundee Cake apply for PGI status (see opposite).

■ foodinnovation.abertay.ac.uk

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INNOVATION

JAM, JUTE AND . . . GIN

P

At Peel Farm near the village of Linrathen hen ng

by Kirriemuir, an old stone bothy among the farm buildings has seen service in recent years as a farm shop, brewery and jam workshop. It was during this latter incarnation that an elderly customer suggested infusing gin with the leftover fruits. It was the start of the Gin Bothy, which now produces a Scottish gin infused with raspberry and mulling spices. Raspberry with rhubarb and blueberry lines are set to ir follow, and they’re quickly shifting their business from their fellow farm shops to behind the bar in several Dundee and Edinburgh establishments. Meanwhile, a former jute mill in Dundee is being transformed into a distillery by former Formula 1 marketing expert and graduate of Abertay University’s MProf in Food & Drink Innovation, Andrew Mackenzie. Focussing first on a cocktail gin, Verdant Spirits looks to shift from student dissertation project to Dundee’s landmark distilled spirit.

■ ginbothy.co.uk; @VerdantCocktail

CLAIMING THE CAKE Food Innovation @ Abertay have been at the heart of a project to uncover the true origins of Dundee Cake and to confirm a recipe for it that paid respect to the unique local heritage of the cake but also met with the practical demands of bakers and retailers for medium to large scale production and a longer shelf life. Bringing together food historian Catherine Brown, food stylists and local bakers including Martin Goodfellow of Goodfellow & Steven, they put together a case for Dundee Cake to be awarded European PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status. The agreed recipe includes orange peel (thus making a key link to the city’s marmalade heritage — see p.17) but not cherries, spices or flaked almonds — a topping of whole blanched almonds is a crucial part of confirming any Dundee Cake as t real McCoy. the

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LIVE MUSIC VENUES

IF MUSIC BE THE FOOD OF LOVE . . .

Dundee’s audacious live music scene is also home to some quality food, as David Pollock discovers

W

ith a switched-on, arty student population, Dundee is a city possessed of many venues which understand that food, drink and live music are all part of a great pub experience.

Perhaps foremost among these is Duke’s Corner, which comes from the stable of highly regarded Dundee and Edinburgh bar operators Fuller Thomson. Serving a commendable range of craft beers alongside char-grilled meat, burgers and hot dogs, they also host regular local live music and DJ nights.

Also under the Fuller Thomson banner is Drouthy’s, which offers low-key live music in a bar area and a subterranean private hire bar playing old-school vinyl and its own science and design inspired cocktail list. The same company’s Jute Café Bar is the more reserved in-house bar and restaurant at Dundee Contemporary Arts (DCA), albeit one which turns more pre-clubby with live DJs at the weekend.

Also check out George Orwell for midweek music, Laings for DJs at the weekend and a great beer garden, while Clarks on Lindsay Street hosts regular music alongside a menu of burgers and pub classics, and hipster art school local Art Bar does pizzas duringg the dayy and live p music and DJs at night.

DISCOVER DUNDEE’S MUSIC

Jute Café Bar

THE BANK BAR (7-9 Union Street, DD1 4BN) Cosy bar with a nook for live music.

CLARKS (80 North Lindsay Street, DD1 1PS) Covers bands, jazz, and folk nights.

DUKE’S CORNER (13 Brown Street, DD1 5EG) Burger and craft beer specialists, with eclectic music each weekend.

FISHERMAN’S TAVERN (12-16 Fort Street, DD5 2AD) Famous folk sessions in Broughty Ferry.

THE FORT (48–60 Fort Street, DD5 2AB) Music is an important part of The Fort’s offering, as is its varied menu.

THE WEST HOUSE (2 West Port, DD1 5EP) Specialist DJ nights plus pizzas in particular.

Clarks

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FOOD DISTRICTS Kitschnbake

BOUT DUNDEE AROUND &by A Claire Smith

r

The Tay bridges are striking features of Dundee’s cityscape, and the view is a compelling reason to eat at Bridgeview Station, set in the former Magdalen Green railway station a little to the west of the city centre. Crossing the Tay over to Fife, the View in Wormit is perched on the banks of the estuary, its small sun deck a great spot for lunch or dinner while enjoying the panoramas across the river back towards Dundee.

Just down the road, Kitschnbake in Newport started as a cakes-from-home business and has grown into a retro café serving a ‘scone of the day’ and cakes made with organic, fairtrade and locally sourced ingredients.

From here, there’s plenty to find deeper into Fife, from farm shops and new whisky distilleries to apple orchards and berry farms. Dundee’s neighbouring regions Angus and Perthshire, as well as Fife, are the epicentre for berry-growing in the UK, particularly around the town of Blairgowrie, and best encountered in roadside stalls and farm shops during summer.

Plenty other local food and drink makes its way onto Dundee menus.

The Aberdeen Angus breed of cattle was founded from the black Angus cattle of Keillor Farm near Dundee, while game including venison, grouse and pheasant are sourced from the Angus glens or the estates of Highland Perthshire. The country’s most prominent supplier of wild venison, Highland Game, has its main processing operation and headquarters in Dundee.

Food and drink-oriented exploring into Angus might also mean encounters with the famous smokies (traditional wood-smoked haddock) of Arbroath, the jams and marmalades that were once associated with Dundee city but are now found more commonly out of the city, local honey operations that have a close relationship with the berry crops the bees help polinate each year, Scotland’s best-known asparagus growers at Glamis, and large fields of potatoes in the Strathmore area. In keeping with the spirit of innovation and enterprise that’s common in these parts, the same fields of tatties are now being utilised in a couple of start-up vodka distilling operations.

■ For more on Angus, Perthshire and Fife see food.list.co.uk/guides

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Henry’s Coffee House (City Square) Italian Grill Madigan’s Tearoom and Bookstore Jack & Jones The Wine Press T Ann Cake Castlehill Restaurant Rancho Pancho Bellini Italian Restaurant The Auld Tram Henry’s Coffee House (Seagate) Kobee The Manchurian Metro Porters Bar and Restaurant

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WHERE TO BUY 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

Goodfellow & Steven (Union Street) Scott Brothers (Nethergate) Fisher & Donaldson (Whitehall Street) Clark’s Bakery (Crichton Street) JA Braithwaite Gazeley’s Deli (Castle Street) The Cheesery Heart Space Whole Foods Matthews Foods Goodfellow & Steven (Albert Street) Continental Food Stores Scott Brothers (Strathmartine Road) Fisher & Donaldson (High Street) DUNDEE LARDER 25

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WHERE TO BUY Agacan Kebab House The Parrot Café Piccolo Hugh’s Place Tartan Coffee House Drouthy’s

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Aitken Wine Warehouse Clark’s Bakery (Annfield Row) West End Butchers Fraser’s Fruit and Veg Fisher & Donaldson (Perth Road) Goodfellow & Steven (Perth Road)

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Jessie’s Kitchen Gulistan House Gracie’s Willows Coffee Shop Collinson’s The Fort Hotel Fisherman’s Tavern The Ship Inn

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WHERE TO BUY Murray’s Sol Y Sombra Visocchi’s Café The Old Anchor Inn Chambrier Bruach Bar Tayberry Restaurant The Glass Pavilion

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Scott Brothers (Brook Street) Clementine Aitken Wines Iced Gems Goodfellow & Steven (Gray Street) Gazeley’s Deli

26 DUNDEE LARDER

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WHERE TO BUY

WHERE TO BUY Listings are grouped into four geographical areas, and within each area entries are sorted alphabetically. Further information on all entries, including opening hours and individual locator maps, can be found at food.list.co.uk, along with details of other food and drink shops across Dundee and beyond.

CITY CENTRE JA Braithwaite Ltd ■ 6 Castle Street, DD1 3AF 01382 322693

Dundee’s oldest shop has been selling fine teas and coffees since 1868, moving to its Castle Street premises in 1932, but taking the original Victorian interior to be rebuilt. The aroma inside is heady and the people in this still family-run shop are as knowledgeable about the world’s teas and coffees as you’re likely to find.

The Cheesery ■ 9 Exchange Street, DD1 3DJ 01382 202160, thecheesery.co.uk

Based just off the High Street, this friendly cheesemonger sells a terrific range of British and European cheeses.

There’s a strong emphasis on supporting Scottish farmhouse cheesemakers with a selection that changes regularly. Deli produce to complement the cheeses includes olives, relishes and a selection of oatcakes and

FOOD & DRINK LISTINGS ONLINE AND ON YOUR PHONE AT FOOD.LIST.CO.UK

ndee-larder-listings.indd 27

biscuits. Gift baskets can be bought for the cheese fans in your life and the shop can even create striking cheese wedding cakes.

Clark’s Bakery ■ 3 Crichton Street, DD1 3AP 01382 221457

Clark’s has a city-centre presence though it is better known locally for its 24-hour bakery at Annfield Row that’s been running since 1950. Alongside traditional bakery classics, Clark’s serves up a range of pies, burgers, chips and hot dogs. The Helicopter – a girth-testing burger, lorne sausage, bacon, fried egg and chips served in a roll – is a Dundee legend.

Fisher & Donaldson ■ 12 Whitehall Street, DD2 4AF, 01382 223488, fisheranddonaldson.com

This fifth-generation baker has outlets across Dundee and Fife, with its main production bakery in Cupar. They produce a large range of traditional Scottish baking combined with French patisserie classics and chocolates. Although most famous for their fudge doughnuts, Dundee classics like sair heids (so called because of their resemblance to a bandaged head) and yum yums are well DUNDEE LARDER 27

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WHERE TO BUY

worth trying. In Dundee they have branches in the city centre (where there’s also a bustling café), Broughty Ferry, and just off the Coupar Angus road on High Street.

Gazeley’s Deli ■ 10–12 Castle Street, DD1 3AF 01382 225541, gazeleysdelicatessen.co.uk

This delicatessen and fishmonger started life in 1973 but was taken over by the manager in 2013. The popular range of fresh fish alongside the deli counter has remained, along with local pies and bridies. The butchery counter offers black pudding, bacon and sausages, while curries, sandwiches, breakfast rolls and other hot foods are also available to take away.

Goodfellow & Steven ■ 24 Union Street, DD1 4BE 01382 223983, goodfellowscakes.co.uk

One of the country’s longest-established bakeries, Goodfellow & Steven has expanded from its original site in Broughty Ferry to shops throughout Scotland, with four in Dundee. From its bags of bridge rolls to elegantly packaged sweets such as the famous chocolate violets, Goodfellow serves customers of all ages. The Broughty Ferry shop also has a tearoom.

Heart Space Whole Foods ■ 29 Exchange Street, DD1 3DJ 01382 669352, wholefoods. heartspacedundee.co.uk

This shop has healthy ambitions

for the people of Dundee, with its own juice counter using fresh organic fruit and veg and plenty of other produce for customers to prepare real food from scratch.

They source locally from farms like Bellfield Organic Nursery, Brewsters free-range eggs and meat producers with top-notch welfare practices, and they also stock bread from Barnett’s Bakery in Fife.

Matthew’s Foods ■ 15 Gellatly Street, DD1 3DY 01382 226628, matthewsfoods.co.uk

This Chinese supermarket provides a wide range of produce sourced from China, Hong Kong, the Philippines, Japan and Thailand. With very reasonable prices, the supermarket is open to the public as well as providing wholesale goods for the catering industry. It’s a great place to pick up many food items not stocked in regular supermarkets.

Scott Brothers ■ 32 Nethergate, DD1 4ET 01382 201342, scottbros.co.uk

This family butcher was started in 1935 by the grandfather of the current owners. Careful local sourcing includes beef from Brechin, pork from Carnoustie, and lamb from Angus and Perthshire. There’s also a good range of venison and poultry. Their sausages and pies are understandably popular and there’s also a large range of delicatessen products.

In addition to this shop in the city centre there are two further branches locally as well as an online shop offering delivery.

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WHERE TO BUY

WEST END

Goodfellow & Steven

Aitken Wine Warehouse

■ 173 Perth Road, DD2 1AT 01382 566278, goodfellowscakes.co.uk

■ Unit 7, Annfield Row, DD1 5JH 01382 641111, aitkenwines.com

See main entry on p.28.

The warehouse branch of this local wine and spirit specialist sells a wide range of Old and New World wines and boutique spirits. The staff are well informed and good at giving tips if you want to try something unusual. Particular strengths are the rum and gin selections, and a range of excellent Spanish wines from lesser-known bodegas.

The Thursday evening wine tastings are always good value, showcasing wines by region.

Clark’s Bakery ■ Annfield Row, DD1 5JH 01382 641048

See main entry on p.27.

Fisher & Donaldson ■ 300 Perth Road, DD2 1AN 01382 643649

See main entry on p.27.

Fraser’s Fruit and Veg ■ 300a Perth Road, DD2 1AN 01382 669613, frasersfruitandveg.co.uk

This greengrocer and deli specialises in produce from local farmers where possible and there are knowledgeable staff to guide you through the array of fruit and vegetables. Deli produce includes an ever-changing range of beers, cheese, meats and even sushi. The shop is famed for its takeaway soups and soup bags, providing an all-you-need kit to prepare your own at home.

ndee-larder-listings.indd 29

West End Butchers ■ 195–197 Perth Road, DD2 1AT 01382 667718

This friendly traditional butcher shop sells raw and cooked meats as well as their own sausages and burgers. If you’re looking for something unusual they will do their best to source it for you, and the very agreeable staff will always advise on how to cook particular cuts of meat.

Their steak and mince pies are particularly good, and there’s frozen produce for sale as well.

BROUGHTY FERRY Aitken Wines ■ 100 Gray Street, DD5 2DN 01382 775522, aitkenwines.com

A shop just off the main shopping thoroughfare of Brook Street with a strong selection of wines and spirits. Linked to the Wine Warehouse on Annfield Row (see above).

Clementine of Broughty Ferry ■ 103 Gray Street, DD5 2DN 01382 738939, clementineofbroughtyferry.com

This lively and beautifully presented greengrocer’s shop stocks both locally grown produce and goods from further afield. The shop also sells DUNDEE LARDER 29

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WHERE TO BUY

local honey, fine cheeses and a good range of practical deli ingredients. Special mention must go to their Soup in a Bag and Meal in a Bag: a recipe and all the ingredients needed to make a batch of soup or a meal for four people, in a bag.

Gazeley’s Deli

veg samosas are light, crumbly and bursting with chilli and coriander.

Fisher & Donaldson ■ 83 High Street, DD2 3AT, 01382 611103

See main entry on p.27.

■ 282–286 Brook Street, DD5 2AN 01382 731493, gazeleysdelicatessen.co.uk

Goodfellow & Steven

See main entry on p.28.

See main entry on p.28.

Goodfellow & Steven

Scott Brothers

■ 83 Gray Street, DD5 2BP 01382 477214, goodfellowscakes.co.uk

■ 206 Strathmartine Road, DD3 8DE, 01382 819417, scottbros.co.uk

See main entry on p.28.

See main entry on p.28.

■ 193 Albert Street, DD4 6PX 01382 458750

Scott Brothers ■ 221 Brook Street, DD5 2AG, 01382 480125, scottbros.co.uk

See main entry on p.28.

AROUND & ABOUT DUNDEE Continental Food Stores ■ 146 Hilltown, DD3 7BJ 01382 228130

A hidden treasure halfway up Hilltown, Continental Stores sells everything from spring chicken and mutton to Asian veg, herbs, Indian sweets and spices. In early summer, look for boxes of Alphonso mangos that bring the flavour of Pakistan to the grey streets of Dundee.

Their fresh, homemade lamb or 30 DUNDEE LARDER

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WHERE TO EAT

WHERE TO EAT Listings are grouped into four geographical areas, and within each area entries are sorted alphabetically. Further information on all entries, including opening hours and individual locator maps, can be found at food.list.co.uk, along with details of many other places to eat across Dundee and beyond.

CITY CENTRE The Auld Tram ■ on the tram lines between High Street & Commercial Street facebook.com/auldtram

A charming, green-liveried former Dundee tram parked right in the heart of the city serving takeaway sandwiches, pies and hot snacks, mostly prepared by sister restaurant Bridgeview Station.

Bellini Italian Restaurant ■ 36 Commercial Street, DD1 3EJ 01382 205444, bellinidundee.co.uk

A family-run restaurant offering a large menu of well prepared Italian dishes – with meat sourced from local butcher Scott Brothers. Highlights include capesante mari e monti: grilled king scallops with bacon, mashed potatoes, cherry tomato and homemade pesto.

BrewDog Dundee ■ The Chamber Building, Panmure Street, DD1 1ED 01382 221738, brewdog.com

Opened in 2014 in the striking Royal Exchange Building, BrewDog celebrates Scottish craft beer in its inimitable, devil-

ndee-larder-listings.indd 31

may-care way. Food is simple and satisfying from a limited menu which changes with the season. Bookings can be made for groups to taste and discuss different beers over platters from the nearby Cheesery.

Castlehill Restaurant ■ 22 Exchange Street, DD1 3DL 01382 220008, castlehillrestaurant.co.uk

It’s no exaggeration to say that Castlehill has revolutionised eating out in Dundee, bringing fine dining to the new foodie hub in Exchange Street. With the awards rolling in for Paul McMillan’s contemporary Scottish venue, tables have been scarcer than Oor Wullie’s hair products. Summer 2015 saw the recruitment of head chef Graham Campbell, who brings experience of Michelin-star level cooking from Balachullish House near Fort William.

Ciao Sorrento ■ 19 Union St, DD1 4BN 01382 221760, ciaosorrentodundee.co.uk

The menu in this intimate venue offers a wide range of Italian favourites and offers great sharing opportunity for groups.

Specialising in pasta and pizza, they also serve a range of steaks, chicken, veal and fish dishes.

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WHERE TO EAT

Clarks on Lindsay Street ■ 80 North Lindsay Street, DD1 1PS, 01382 224925, clarksonlindsaystreet.com

Warm wooden interiors provide a welcoming tone to this contemporary bar, which offers everything from coffee to cask ales and cocktails. The kitchen serves food five days a week, offering a selection of pub classics, burgers and salads alongside sharing platters and wraps, as well as a children’s menu. The atmosphere is often lively with regular live music and sport shown on big screens

Folk Café ■ 118 Nethergate, DD1 4HE 01382 203588, fb.com/folkcafedundee

Opened in 2014, Folk Café is the big sister of local favourite The Parlour. The food majors in big, fresh flavours: most notable are the tasty frittatas and tarts, plus the ever-changing salad plates – perhaps a gleaming lentil salad vibrant with thick garlic dressing, or a light bowlful of beetroot and quinoa.

Excellent brunch dishes include eggs benedict with a twist and morning glory muffins.

Henry’s Coffee House ■ 4 City Square, DD1 3BA, 01382 200225 ■ 22-26 Seagate, DD1 2EQ, 01382 200225 henryscoffeehouse.co.uk

The two branches of this independent coffee shop make a pleasant alternative to the corporate chains, and brew up some great quality coffee. Cosy in the winter and with outdoor

seating for summer sunshine, the City Square outlet is popular year-round, while the Seagate branch is a great place for people-watching through the floor-to-ceiling windows.

Italian Grill ■ 6–7 City Square, DD1 3BA 01382 690600, italiangrill.net

This contemporary, slick Italian restaurant is a great venue for families, where kids can choose their own pizza toppings and enjoy a three course menu.

There’s a private dining area for to 18 people, while in summer you can enjoy one of over 50 gins from behind the bar while enjoying views over City Square from the outdoor seating area.

Jack and Jones ■ 24 Castle Street, DD1 3AF 01382 200265/201686, jandjdundee.com

Serving lunch, dinner and takeaway food, Jack and Jones is a popular venue for fashionable Tex-Mex cooking, serving staples like fajitas, enchiladas, burritos and chimichangas. The burgers are also popular, while the chef’s speciality sirloin steak asada and the Brazilian prawn bobo, cooked with tomatoes, onions and coconut milk offer something a bit different.

Kobee ■ 42 Dock Street, DD1 3DR 01382 221811, kobee.co.uk

Opened in March 2015, Kobee promises a night of entertainment with its teppenyaki style of cooking.

The chef prepares all of the food using intricate knife skills and

32 DUNDEE LARDER

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WHERE TO EAT

lucky diners may catch some tasters along the way. There’s a selection of unusual wines, spirits and beer too.

TABLE T ABLE T Talk alk

Madigan’s Tearoom and Bookstore ■ 25 Castle Street, DD1 3AA 01382 699202, madigans.weebly.com

This quirky little tearoom piled high with old books for sale brings a slice of the boho to Dundee city centre. Offering excellent soups, sandwiches, sharing platters and good value afternoon teas, the owner sources locally, with coffee in particular coming just a few metres from JA Braithwaite.

The books and café options make it a family friendly spot.

Malmaison Dundee ■ 44 Whitehall Crescent, DD1 4AY 0844 693 0661, malmaison.com

The brasserie at Malmaison has a sumptuous feel with the lighting low, the furnishings luxurious and some lovely views over the Tay. The menu has an international feel to it, with brasserie classics like steak-frites rubbing shoulders with an Asian-inspired tuna mignon. The Josper grill adds a smoky barbecue flavour to fish and steak dishes, and the Sunday lunch menu brings a brunch vibe to proceedings.

The Manchurian ■ 15 Gellatly Street, DD1 3DY 01382 228822, manchuriandundee.com

Its location above Matthew’s Chinese supermarket is a good

ndee-larder-listings.indd 33

MARY JANE DUNCAN ON SCOTT BROTHERS BUTCHERS We are a small eatery in Newport on Tay, and very aware of the importance of using high quality products supplied by local, likeminded companies. For this reason we chose to use Scott Brothers butchers right from the beginning.

Their products are well priced, fresh and they deliver straight to our door.

The drivers are always friendly, cheery chaps while the staff manning the phones are brilliant at helping with all our random enquiries. The unanimous decision over our favourite Scott Brothers product is their Carnoustie back bacon.

We are all a little too fond of some Carnoustie back bacon on a fresh, buttered white roll with lashings of tomato ketchup. Best bacon roll ever!

■ Mary Jane Duncan is the owner of Kitschnbake, Newport-on-Tay (see page 46)

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start on the authenticity front, and the Manchurian continues to deliver once you’re inside.

Dim sum are served until 4.30pm every day, ranging from light steamed char siu buns to the more exotic delights of chilli oil pigs’ ears. The traditional menu covers pot dishes or ‘roasts’ such as gui fei chicken – marinated in herbs and spices and served on the bone.

Metro ■ Apex City Quay Hotel, 1 West Victoria Dock Road, DD1 3JP 01382 202404, apexhotels.co.uk

Metro offers more atmosphere and style than the usual hotel restaurant. Looking out over the historic dock area, it’s airy and modern without being sterile. The menu offers plenty of choice and has a fine-dining side as well as its standard bistro offering of burgers, pasta and salads. Although it’s part of a chain of hotels, it also provides a welcome nod to its location with a fine Dundee marmalade tart.

The Palais Tea Room ■ 11 Union Street, DD1 4BN 07514 412759

Joining Dundee’s flourishing tearoom community, The Palais takes its inspiration from the city’s most famous dancehall.

It’s retro-tastic, with the servers also dressed in period costume.

The food is fresh and plentiful, and anyone coming off wartime rations would have loved the cake slices being served here.

It’s cosy and friendly and everything a proper traditional tearoom should be.

Porters Bar and Restaurant ■ City Quay, DD1 3JA 01382 225139, portersbar-restaurant.com

Opened in early 2015, Porters promises tapas-style dining and sharing platters. Cocktail pitchers are on offer and, with a premium selection of beers, wines and spirits, it’s a fun venue to enjoy a casual light bite and drinks with friends. It’s located a five-minute walk from the city centre, in the up and coming City Quay area.

Project Pie ■ 48–54 Reform Street, DD1 1RT 01382 220909, projectpie.co.uk

Chosen as the first European location for Project Pie, a US artisan pizza chain, the Reform Street location is ideal for office workers after a quick hot lunch.

It’s also bespoke: the base is flattened upon ordering, the choice of a red sauce or olive oil white base is made, then it’s time to move along and choose your toppings. Kale salads are available, as are desserts. The traditional soda fountain with free refills makes up for the fact that it’s unlicensed.

Rancho Pancho ■ 16 Commercial Street, DD1 3EJ 01382 229518, ranchopancho.com

Rancho Pancho has been a Dundee favourite for more than a decade. It provides exactly what’s required of a casual Mexcan joint – nothing too sophisticated or fancy, just properly delicious, belt-busting food in a relaxed atmosphere.

They serve good cocktails too,

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so it’s a good shout for a casual night out with friends.

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Rockpool ■ 5 Whitehall Street, DD1 4AA 01382 203223, rockpooluk.com

A thoroughly modern fish and chip café with a beachhouse vibe and an emphasis on fresh ingredients and fresh cooking.

Fish and chips to sit in or takeaway are augmented with a fairly exhaustive list of pizzas, burgers, grills and curries.

Popular with groups, family parties and celebrations.

T Ann Cake ■ 27 Exchange Street, DD1 3DJ 01382 203950, t-ann-cake. blogspot.co.uk

A quirky and individual little café located in the heart of Dundee city centre, favoured by students and families alike.

Tables are decorated with mismatched vintage crockery and the clinking of teacups reverberates round the room.

The homemade soup provides a satisfying, speedy lunch and there’s always a selection of home-baked cakes sitting temptingly on the counter.

Torino ■ 13 Whitehall Street, DD1 4AA 01382 200252, torinorestaurants.co.uk

A contemporary Italian restaurant with smart photos, decor and even an iconic Fiat 500 car in the window. It’s all themed on the Piedmontese city of Torino (Turin), and more specifically the maroon-shirted football team that shares its name. Family friendly pizza,

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ADAM NEWTH ON HEATHER HONEY We pride ourselves on getting our ingredients from Scotland not just to support the country, but because Scotland’s produce is amazing. It really rules when it comes to its global rivals. As a chef, it’s a joy.

You have all this lovely stuff sitting on your bench first thing in the morning to play with. In Scotland, it’s about keeping in with the seasons, and whether it’s from six or sixty miles away, my job is to take the best ingredients and go on to make something beautiful to taste.

At the moment one of my favourite ingredients is from pretty close to home. It’s the heather honey from Heather Hills Farm in Blairgowrie that we’re using in our poached rhubarb and custard dessert. I just love the sort of medicinal characteristic it has to it. It’s seriously thick, cloudy and sticky, and has that quality that say a Manuka honey has. It really finishes off the dish.

■ Adam Newth is chef proprietor of The Tayberry Restaurant (see page 44)

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pasta and classic Italian dishes are all in place, incorporating meat and fish from Perthshire suppliers.

The Trades House ■ 40 Nethergate, Dundee DD1 4ET 01382 229494, tradeshousedundee.co.uk

The Trades House is a traditional pub frequented by locals for after-work drinks as well as the city’s sports fans, who take advantage of the numerous big screens. Divided into a series of sections, groups of up to 40 can book out one of the snugs for no charge. The pub serves a variety of pub fare through the day, with reasonably priced panini, sandwiches and baked potatoes making a filling lunch.

True Kitchen & Bar ■ 2 Whitehall Crescent, DD1 4AU 01382 225023, truepizzaco.com

The second offering from the team behind Gracie’s in Broughty Ferry, True Kitchen offers diners regular and house special pizzas, including a selection of gluten-free options, plus a number of non-pizza mains and sharing boards.

Located on the edge of the new Waterfront development, with the Jam Jar cocktail bar right alongside, this venue is one to watch.

The Wine Press ■ 16 Shore Terrace, DD1 3DN 01382 204444, aitkenwines.com

Another 2015 opening enhancing the food and drink credentials of the Exchange Street/Waterfront axis, this tasteful, unflashy wine bar set up

by local wine merchants Aitken Wines serves 30 different wines by the glass along with food platters, wee pie dishes, nibbles and cheese and charcuterie boards. Special Enomatic dispensers keep opened bottles in good condition and serve wine in taster or full glass sizes.

WEST END Agacan Kebab House ■ 113 Perth Road, DD1 4JB 01382 644227

One of Dundee’s hidden treasures, the Agacan has been serving up Turkish food in bohemian surroundings for over 30 years. While vegetarian options are available (including a soft yet gutsy version of the classic imam bayildi, or stuffed aubergine) this is really a haven for carnivores. The Iskender, for example, features chargrilled chunks of chicken pillic, impeccably seasoned sis kofte and a generous portion of doner, all covered in garlic yoghurt, chilli sauce and melted butter.

Avery & Co ■ 34 South Tay Street, DD1 1PD 01382 201533, averyandco.co.uk

Established in 2014, this independent eatery serves fresh food cooked from scratch throughout the day. Along with house-made steak burger and fish tacos, the menu caters for gluten-free diets, has special nutritious and delicious kids’ options, and uses meat from local butchers. The drinks menu offers a selection of Scottish craft beers, while for cocktail fans, the Dundee Marmalade

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Mojito offers something a wee bit different.

Beiderbeckes Bistro ■ 167 Brook Street, DD1 5BJ 01382 229440, beiderbeckesbistro.co.uk

Named in honour of jazz legend Bix Beiderbecke, this informal restaurant offers an extensive menu of pasta, pizza and a good range of burgers. It’s the fusion American-Scottish flavours that really stand out though, with dishes like house speciality stir-fries, prawn gumbo and a vegetarian Cleveland medley alongside Caledonian pie which mixes steak, haggis and a Glayva sauce.

The D’Arcy Thompson ■ 21–23 Old Hawkhill, DD1 5EU 01382 322694, thedarcythompson.co.uk

The pared-back interior gives this restaurant a stylish, semiindustrial feel with brasseriestyle wooden chairs and stripped floorboards adding some warmth. The vibe here is relaxed with a well-stocked bar and classics like steak and chips on the menu alongside quirky dishes like a prosecco jelly with rose petals. On Sundays, a chef’s choice of roast is served afternoon and evening.

Don Michele ■ 177–179 Perth Road, DD2 1AS 01382 660600, donmichele.co.uk

An old-school family-run Italian trattoria, Don Michele undersells itself from the street, but inside, it’s a charmer. The menu is straightforward: good pizzas on a semolina-flecked

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base, pastas and risottos, and a few meat and fish standards.

Highlights include a very tasty pork saltimbocca, and the misto di pesce showcases local fish cooked with care. There’s a good wine list at a range of price points, and it’s hard to resist a grappa with your coffee.

Drouthy’s ■ 142 Perth Road, DD1 4JY 01382 202187, drouthysdundee.co.uk

Serving breakfasts of the traditional fry-up and hot roll type from 10am, Drouthy’s carries on serving unpretentious but innovative pub food throughout the day. There’s a range of over 10 gourmet burgers, served in a brioche bun with homemade pickles, sweet potato fries and a good variety of salads and sides. You can also select from a range of nibbles to put together a sharing board for a tapas-style approach.

Duke’s Corner ■ 13 Brown Street, DD1 5EG 01382 205052, dukescorner. co.uk

Eating at Duke’s Corner is all about the charcoal grill, with an emphasis on the American barbecue tradition – pulled pork, ribs, smoky beans – all made with locally sourced produce. Char-grilled steaks, wings and corn dogs also feature but it’s the burgers for which Duke’s Corner is best known.

This is hearty food designed to accompany the impressive beer menu, although salads and cocktails are also available, and there’s a beer garden with a warming firepit out the back.

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Encore Bar & Brasserie ■ Dundee Rep Theatre, Tay Square, DD1 1PB, 01382 206699, encoredundee.co.uk

The lovely, relaxed atmosphere within Dundee’s Rep Theatre makes Encore an ideal spot for couples or groups of friends, with good quality food made with produce sourced from local suppliers. The reasonably priced menu is varied, with gluten-free options and plenty for vegetarians. As might be expected in such a location, there’s a good pre-theatre menu.

Espress Oh! Coffee House ■ 302–304 Perth Road, DD2 1AU espressoh.co.uk

Relaxed and buzzy, this place does excellent coffee roasts and a good list of teas. Their cakes are all homemade and rather fabulous – there’s an update of Black Forest gateau replete with chocolate dipped cherries, for example. Lunch offers gourmet sandwiches on homebaked sourdough: an upscale grilled cheese with three types of cheese and garlic butter, or maybe a classic Reuben with black pastrami and dill pickles.

Hugh’s Place ■ 75 Perth Road, DD1 4HY 01382 228306, hughsplace.co.uk

Small but beautifully formed, Hugh’s Place has become a popular West End meeting place. Good quality coffee and cakes by local bakers are the main event here, but light lunches and healthy choices are also on offer. The chilli –

both meat and vegetarian – is always good. Unlike the vintage tweeness of many cafés, the decor is deliberately a bit rough around the edges, but it all adds to its unpretentious appeal.

Jushi ■ 40 Westport, DD1 5ER 01382 205830, jushi.co.uk

Bringing together juice, smoothies, and sushi, Jushi offers a healthy lunchtime option to the busy Westport area. Its opening filled a sushishaped void in Dundee and although it’s now been joined by others it has maintained its quality. You can save time by ordering online, and while the fact that everything is made to order means not all menu items are always available, it’s a compromise worth making for this kind of freshness.

Jute Café Bar ■ Dundee Contemporary Arts, 152 Nethergate, DD1 4DY 01382 909246, fullerthomson.com

As the DCA changed the face of arts in Dundee, so the Jute Café Bar changed the culinary landscape. It manages to transform through the day, from a casual breakfast venue to a lunchtime favourite for business or pleasure, to an evening rendezvous for a sophisticated dinner. The menu has always been inventive, but there are additional twists on traditional breakfast dishes – chorizo, black pudding and chive omelette, anyone? The outdoor space lends itself to lazy afternoons with a sharing platter.

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Malabar ■ 304 Perth Road, DD2 1AU 01382 646888, malabardundee.com

Valuing authenticity over the typical never-ending Indian menu, Malabar specialises in the food of South India, with spices imported and ground by hand before blending. Those hankering for their favourite dish might find it, even if it originates from the north, but what Malabar offers is a chance for the curry connoisseur to expand their palates and try some more unusual starters and side dishes. Vegetarians are well-catered for with some exotic Indian vegetable dishes.

Mandarin Garden ■ 40–44 South Tay Street, DD1 1PF, 01382 227733, mandaringarden-dundee.co.uk

This well-established specialist in Peking and Cantonese dishes offers a vast menu, friendly service and a good atmosphere, with the ambient sound of fellow diners enjoying their food. The tables are designed for sharing and a whole duck will easily feed four hungry people, perhaps with a few side dishes. Set menus for two to four people are reasonably priced and the portion sizes are generous.

Meat House Bar & Grill ■ 2–8 Perth Road, DD1 4LN 01382 690040, meathouse. co.uk

If you can’t find it, follow your nose: the aroma of char-grilled meat is the calling card of the Meat House. Although it

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GILLIAN VEAL ON LOCAL WILD GARLIC I first came across Dundee’s wild garlic about eight years ago, when a young customer of The Parlour asked me if I would like to buy some from him. He had picked, washed and packaged up the vibrant green leaves. I bought a few leaves and it’s such a great ingredient that we have been using it every year since.

We simply use it in place of garlic bulbs whenever possible and we treat it as a herb in our salads and savoury dishes. My personal favourite way to use the leaves is to finely chop it into a chedder omelette or blend it into a pesto and pour over grilled goat’s cheese. The flowers are edible and look so delicate and pretty in a salad or for a simple garnish. You can source it from local suppliers from mid-March through to July, but I find so many people bring it to me I never need to.

■ Gillian Veal is the owner of The Parlour Café (see page 40) and Folk Café (page 32)

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makes much of its Josper grill, the hottest indoor barbecue available, there are options for those who prefer their meat of the feathered, finned or shelled variety. The bar has gained a reputation for its cocktails, and fans of a free meal (or a T-shirt) can take part in a few ‘Man vs Food’ type challenges.

Oshibori ■ 162 Nethergate, DD1 4EA 01382 690370, oshiborirestaurants.co.uk

Dundee’s first Japanese restaurant opened in 2014 and has quickly attracted a dedicated following thanks to its good-value bento lunch deals and well-prepared sushi.

Udon noodle dishes make for excellent slurping and gyoza are a great starter to share with friends. A visit to the complimentary sushi tree is a must – and there are sake cocktails on offer to complete the experience.

The Parlour Café ■ 58 West Port, DD1 5ER 01382 203588, theparlourcafe.co.uk

Gillian Veal’s well-conceived and taste-driven café is one of the spots around town at the forefront of Dundee’s culinary awakening, offering inventive takes on standard menu items and giving vegetarians more than just a cursory nod.

Lunchtime favourites such as sandwiches, salads, soups and tarts are seasonal and fresh, with takeaway available and a spot of indulgence in the array of cakes beckoning from under their cloches.

The Parrot Café ■ 91 Perth Road, DD1 4HZ 01382 206277

The Parrot Café has been a Dundee institution for so long that it has come back into fashion. A traditional tearoom that often doubles as an art gallery, it’s a popular location for West End ladies who lunch or simply pop in for a scone while shopping. With an unpretentious atmosphere and friendly staff it is just as suitable for families, and even gentlemen – they need to lunch too.

The Phoenix ■ 103 Nethergate, DD1 4DH 01382 200014

Even from the outside, it’s clear that this is a venue with character. Primarily a pub, it is famed locally for its hearty grub, including whopping burgers and a chilli that can bring a flush to the cheeks on a cold winter’s day. Owner Alan Bannerman has made sure that his waiting and bar staff are friendly and knowledgeable and there’s a good rotating stock of craft beers to accompany the food.

Piccolo ■ 210 Perth Road, DD1 4JY 01382 201419, piccolodundee.co.uk

Piccolo’s menu focuses on Italian cuisine, good wines and delicious desserts. The welcome is warm, the venue intimate and dishes are put together with a great deal of care and attention.

The homemade pâté is worth ordering, as is the gnocchi. It’s a lovely spot for special occasions and booking is recommended at weekends.

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The Playwright ■ 11 Tay Square, DD1 1PB 01382 223113, theplaywright.co.uk

The Playwright has quietly managed to retain an important place in Dundee’s flourishing fine dining community. Well placed next to Dundee Rep on Tay Square, it has a loyal pre-theatre following. The decor sets the mood – the walls are lined with superb portraits of thespians – for some fine predinner cocktails before moving through to the dining room for some sophisticated cooking and imaginative desserts.

Rishi’s Indian Aroma ■ 11 Hawkhill, DD1 5DL 01382 791041, rishisdundee.co.uk

This newest outpost of the Rishi’s restaurant empire is worth a wander up the Hawkhill.

The extensive menu covers dishes from all over India, but the biggest thrills are provided by the South Indian specials.

Tiffin dishes like papery masala dosa over a foot long, light and spongy idli and vadai like little curried doughnuts are all excellent. Pongal – a bland cloud of rice and moong dal liberally punctured with whole peppercorns and curry leaves lest you dose off – is a pleasure.

The Speedwell Bar ■ 165–167 Perth Road, DD2 1AS 01382 667783, speedwell-bar.co.uk

The Speedwell Bar is this Dundee institution’s Sunday name. To all who know and love it, it’s Mennies, named for the landlady, Mrs Mennie, who ran it for around 50 years and had the personality to match

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its incredible interior. Dark mahogany and etched-glass screens are the backdrop to a bar serving a wide selection of beers and more than 100 single malts.

There are crisps and nuts on offer but no food as such.

Tartan Coffeehouse ■ 53a Perth Road, DD1 4HY 01382 322338

The Tartan Coffee House was the first of its kind on the Perth Road and retains a loyal following. Slightly bohemian but still with something to attract lunching ladies, it hasn’t strayed too far from what it does best: decent sandwiches with side salads and crisps, and soups with a hunk of bread on the side. There are always some unusual cake choices and a wide range of teas too.

Taypark House Café ■ 484 Perth Road, Dundee DD2 1LR, 01382 643777, tayparkhouse.co.uk

With beautiful views of the grounds of Taypark House and beyond, this café is a lovely place for breakfast, brunch or lunch. With stunning cakes and other sweet treats to choose from, Taypark House is a relaxing venue for a cuppa with friends and freshly made food.

There’s also now an outdoor gin bar featuring a huge number of Scottish gins.

The Tinsmith ■ 11–13 Old Hawkhill, DD1 5EU 01382 204198, thetinsmith.co.uk

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University of Dundee campus, the Tinsmith has managed to combine a contemporary edge with the lively atmosphere of a sports bar. The food is nononsense with a menu offering pies (well, we are in Dundee), burgers, fish and fajitas – and the hand-cut chips are pretty special. It also has a beer garden, and a full breakfast menu.

Tonic ■ 141 Nethergate, DD1 4DP 01382 226103, tonic-live.co.uk

Although nestled in the heart of the university area, Tonic still attracts a mixed crowd – from the after-work drinks on a Friday brigade, to couples enjoying a bite to eat before hitting the town. A huge range of burgers attracts the city’s biggest carnivores and adventurous diners are actively encouraged to sample the ‘Not Cow’ selection.

The West House ■ 2 West Port, DD1 5EP 01382 525205, bar. thewesthouse.co.uk

After many years this corner site has been transformed into a bar and restaurant that has found favour with local diners.

Open and airy, the decor is eclectic using contemporary elements combined with some pieces from Dundee’s industrial heritage. A simple menu of pizzas, pastas, and salads hits the spot, with sharing plates on offer for a lazy afternoon with something dry and bubbly.

For morning meetings, the breakfast menu is available until 11.30am.

BROUGHTY FERRY Bruach Bar ■ 328 Brook Street, DD5 2AN 01382 739878, bruach-bar.com

This laid-back spot is particularly popular for brunch with its bacon and maple syrup pancakes garnering quite a following. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the Bruach Bar offers a menu that includes burgers, salads, fish and steaks.

There’s a tapas-style approach at lunchtime, with options including pulled pork sausage rolls and haggis bonbons.

Chambrier ■ 327A Brook Street, DD5 2DS 01382 690500, chambrier.co.uk

Lined with rough wood, simple in its approach but creative and alternative in its offering, this wee crêperie and coffee shop is turning heads and gathering fans in Broughty Ferry. Savoury and sweet crêpes are the mainstay, with occasional evening opening and events including storytelling and origami sessions.

Collinsons Restaurant ■ 122–124 Brown Street, DD5 1EN 01382 776000, collinsonsrestaurant.com

Chef Stephen Collinson opened this sleek restaurant in 2012 and it has been attracting plaudits for its refined cookery ever since.

Set within a modern building, the interior continues the clean, contemporary feel and service is slick. The menu bursts with shellfish, game and other

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Scottish ingredients including smokies, local cheeses served with Aberfeldy oatcakes and mussels from the west coast.

The Fisherman’s Tavern ■ 10–16 Fort Street, DD5 2AD 01382 775941, fishermanstavernbroughtyferry.co.uk

The Fish, as it’s known locally, is a Broughty Ferry institution.

Cosy in winter and with a beer garden in summer, it offers those who like hearty Scottish food and real ales a place to relax and feel part of history. There is a dedicated area for eating, but food is also served in the main bar area. Family friendly in the extreme, children are welcome to stay until 9pm.

The Fort Hotel ■ 58 Fort Street, DD5 2AB 01382 737999, fort-hotel.com

A multi-purpose hotel, bar and restaurant, the Fort is all about evening entertainment, with a bespoke whisky collection and a list of Italian and French wine in its lounge bar, DJs in the club room at the weekend and a large beer garden. The in-house Borgotaro restaurant serves up pizzas and pasta dishes, as well as steaks, sea bass and veal cooked with an Italian touch.

The Glass Pavilion ■ The Esplanade, DD5 2EP 01382 732738

This striking glass building is a landmark in Broughty Ferry, known for its great views over the beach to the Tay and Tentsmuir beyond. Open for breakfast, lunch, snacks and dinner, the traditional menu

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includes steak pie, fish and chips, macaroni cheese, soups and ice-creams. It’s a popular stop for walkers, with a special menu for dogs and a sheltered kennel. For families there’s a play area to keep the wee ones entertained.

Gracie’s of Broughty Ferry ■ 175 Brook Street, DD5 1DJ 01382 730811

Named after the owner’s young daughter, Gracie’s is a coffee spot in the morning, casual eatery at lunch and host to the occasional comedy night in the evening. A former café, the new owners are turning the venue into an informal bistro, with gourmet burgers, house salads and sandwiches on offer. Open later on a Saturday evening for dinner, it’s a great place to start a night out with friends.

Gulistan House Indian Restaurant ■ Queen Street, DD5 2HN 01382 738844

Not just a local favourite, Gulistan House has also become a bit of a destination restaurant for Indian food aficionados since opening back in 1979. The menu is extensive without being bewildering and offers some lesser-known Pakistani and Afghani dishes.

Iced Gems ■ 98 Gray Street, DD5 2DN 01382 730169

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looking for a break from the house, as well as ladies who lunch. Homely and welcoming, they also make sure that sweettoothed vegans aren’t left out.

Jessie’s Kitchen ■ Turriff’s Garden Centre & Farm Shop, 3 Albert Road, DD5 1AY 01382 778488

A favourite with Broughty Ferry residents and visitors, Jessie’s provides a cosy and welcoming venue with a toy corner to keep youngsters amused. Posh sandwiches perk up lunchtimes, the scones are freshly baked daily and the cake selection offers something to tempt all ages. The views from the front over the Tay are spectacular.

Murray’s ■ 23 Gray Street, DD5 2BH 01382 738117

Located a stone’s throw from the Tay, offering the opportunity to eat out on the harbour wall, Murray’s regularly finds itself in the running when locals come to debate the best chippie in Dundee. The fish is locally sourced, and there’s a café where you can enjoy a supper the old-fashioned way, with bread, butter and a cup of tea.

The Old Anchor Inn ■ 48 Gray Street, DD5 2BJ 01382 737899

In an area where there are many traditional pubs offering bar meals, the Old Anchor Inn can’t afford to be complacent and so prides itself on the freshness of its food. Not one for a romantic meal, perhaps, but a comfortable and friendly spot.

The Ship Inn ■ 121 Fisher Street, DD5 2BR 01382 779176, theshipinnbroughtyferry.co.uk

Right on the waterfront, this free house’s nautical theme includes a restaurant based on RRS Discovery’s ward room. Caskconditioned ales sit alongside a wide range of draught beers and lagers. The small restaurant has a decent pub menu, and the bar serves snacks.

Sol Y Sombra Tapas Bar ■ 27 Gray Street, DD5 2BH 01382 776941

At this popular tapas restaurant there’s no menu: instead waiters ask for dietary requirements and preferences before bringing a selection of dishes to your table, describing them in Spanish and English. A seemingly endless stream of dishes arrive throughout the evening, making this a memorable experience as well as a very filling meal out.

Tayberry Restaurant ■ 594 Brook Street, DD5 2EA tayberryrestaurant.com

Chef Adam Newth made his name with the meteoric rise of Castlehill Restaurant in Dundee’s city centre, picking up various awards including Young Scottish Chef of the Year. In 2015 he set up his own place in a small venue where Brook Street meets the Esplanade, with ambitions to make his name further with modern Scottish cooking.

Visocchi’s Café ■ 40 Gray Street, DD5 2BJ 01382 779297, vcaffe.it

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Visocchi’s is a Broughty Ferry institution, where generations of locals have gone for an ice-cream on a sunny (or not so sunny) day. It’s a place that caters to the young and old and also offers pizza delivery at the weekend. The tortellini and ravioli make a delicious alternative to pizza, and the sundae menu is a real treat.

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Willows Coffee Shop ■ 146–148 Brook Street, DD5 1DT 01382 732525

This café and cake shop prides itself on the homemade nature of most of its menu, particularly a daily-changing range of cakes (including gluten-free options) and soups. Also on offer are sandwiches, toasties, paninis and baked potatoes, while their milkshakes are a favourite with kids and grown-ups alike.

AROUND & ABOUT DUNDEE Amore Mio ■ 69–71 High Street, Monifieth DD5 4AA, 01382 530044, amoremiorestaurant.co.uk

Serving a slice of Italian authenticity in the heart of affluent Monifieth, Amore Mio offers all the usual variations on pasta and pizza dishes with a little more flair than many others, as well as fresh fish options and steaks. With striking surroundings, it’s equally suited to a romantic dinner as it is to family gatherings.

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JAN MCTAGGART AND CAROLE SOMMERVILLE ON THE JOY OF SEASONAL FRUITS Summer berries are the best thing about living where we are. One of the farmers who comes in was saying it’s all going full circle and that people really want to know what they’re putting in their body and where it has come from. The lovely thing about local summer berries is that the same sun you feel on your back is what helped make them grow.

We have a short season for berry growing, but when it comes it feels like Christmas because they taste so good. We get our berries from East Scryne Farm in Carnoustie and a wee artisan place in Fife called Pittormie Farm. Gorge on them when they’ve just been been picked, or if you get a few over-ripe ones, you can always make a jam to preserve that amazing taste.

■ Jan McTaggart and Carole Sommerville own Clementine of Broughty Ferry (page 29)

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WHERE TO EAT

Bridgeview Station

Kitschnbake

■ Riverside Drive, DD2 1UQ, 01382 660066, bridgeviewstation.com

■ 16–18 Boat Road, Newport-onTay DD6 8EZ, 01382 542704, blog.kitschnbake.co.uk

An architectural treat as much as a culinary one, Bridgeview is set in the painstakingly refurbished Magdalen Green railway station, a Victorian building with excellent views of the Tay. The menu is modest but well-formed, featuring items such as Scrabster gurnard, Ayrshire lamb rump and Angus rump steak garni.

A bright and light-filled space on the banks of the Tay, Kitschnbake is all about plenty. Glorious cakes (three storeys high and quite often decorated with biscuits, flakes, or a pile of soft fruit) steal the show. Scones the size of small pillows come in flavours from plain to peanut butter and back again.

Ganges ■ 11 Park Avenue, Carnoustie DD7 7JA, 01241 853336, gangescarnoustie.co.uk

A popular and plush stop, Ganges offers a broad range of Indian cooking of the sort that will be familiar to a British audience, with chef’s specials including Lahori salmon cooked with aubergine, and the curious-sounding fusion dish mazedar – chicken or lamb tikka cooked with Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice and cream.

They also have a wide range of tandoori and biryani, and a strong list of vegetarian sides.

Invergowrie Inn ■ 130 Main Street, Invergowrie DD2 5BE 01382 562686

The Invergowrie Inn offers something to the whole community, being child-friendly but also offering a special senior citizens’ menu. As well as standard favourites, there are menu items such as black pudding and beetroot fritters. By keeping the menu fairly tight, it manages to cover all bases well.

Maze ■ DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel, Kingsway West, DD2 5JT 01382 641122, doubletree3.hilton.com

Maze occupies a conservatory room with views over an Italian garden and offers a selection of predominantly meat and fish dishes with a Scottish twist.

Highlights include a fillet of sea bream in a bean and chorizo cassoulet and a blade of braised beef with apple puree and roasted beetroot.

The View Restaurant ■ Naughton Road, Wormit, Newport On Tay DD6 8NE 01382 542287, view-restaurant.co.uk

The View is a sophisticated venue, offering well-cooked Scottish produce on a menu that changes throughout the day, from morning coffee and pastries, through to lunch, light bar snacks and a full evening menu. True to its name, an outside section looks across to Dundee and the changing face of the waterfront.

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MARKETS & EVENTS

FARMERS’ MARKETS Dundee Farmers’ Market ■ City Square, third Saturday of every month, 9am–4pm, dundeecity.gov.uk

This monthly market provide a shop front for many small-scale food and drink producers based in the surrounding countryside, and normally includes a wide range of produce, from pork and buffalo to chutneys, chilli, wine and beer, organic vegetables, fresh eggs, home baking and beef.

Angus Farmers’ Markets ■ Montrose, High Street, first Saturday of every month ■ Forfar, The Mart, John Street, second Saturday of every month angusfarmersmarket.co.uk

Fife Farmers’ Markets ■ St Andrews, Argyle St Car Park, first Saturday of every month ■ Dunfermline, Glen Gates, Bridge St, second Saturday of every month ■ Cupar, Crossgate, third Saturday of every month ■ Kirkcaldy, Town Square, last Saturday of every month fifefarmersmarket.co.uk

FOOD & DRINK EVENTS MAY Ron Bonar Beer Festival ■ fishermanstavernbroughtyferry.co.uk

Late May ale festival hosted

by The Fisherman’s Tavern in Broughty Ferry, raising funds for the RNLI.

Kingdom of Fife Real Ale and Cider Festival ■ facebook.com/ kingdomoffifefestival

Sampling over 30 real ales from around the country, as well as wine, cider and perry.

JUNE Crail Food Festival ■ crailfoodfest.co.uk

Features some top Scottish musicians, a producers’ market, cookery demonstrations and fun activities around the harbour.

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AUGUST Alba Real Ale Festival ■ albarealalefestival.org

Held at the Royal Tay Yacht Club in Dundee, with 40 Scottish microbreweries represented and lots of live entertainment.

Arbroath Sea Fest ■ arbroathseafest.co.uk

Focussed around the harbour, with smokies prominent among the many food stalls.

EARLY SEPTEMBER Dundee Flower and Food Festival ■ dundeeflowerandfoodfestival.com

The most important annual food, crafts and gardening event in Tayside. Many local producers are present, with the National Vegetable Championships taking place and food demos in the Food Discovery Marquee.

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INDEX Abertay University 20 Agacan 13, 19, 36 Aitken Wine Warehouse 29 Alba Real Ale Festival 47 Amore Mio 45 Angus farmers’ markets 47 Arbroath Sea Fest 47 Art Bar 22 Auld Tram, The 31 Avery & Co. 13, 36 Bank Bar, The 22 Beiderbeckes Bistro 37 Bellini Italian Restaurant 31 Bridgeview Station 4, 23, 46 Braithwaite, JA 5, 27 BrewDog Dundee 15, 31 Bruach Bar 4, 16, 42 Café Sicilia 19 Castlehill Restaurant 4, 8, 31 Chambrier 42 Cheesery, The 5, 8, 27 Ciao Sorrento 31 Clark’s Bakery 5, 27 Clarks on Lindsay Street 15, 22, 32 Clementine of Broughty Ferry 7, 29, 45 Clep Bar, The 15 Collinsons Restaurant 4, 16, 42 Continental Food Stores 30 Crail Food Festival 47 D’Arcy Thompson, The 4, 13, 36 DCA 13, 22 Dil’se 19 Discovery, RRS 15 Don Michele 37 Drouthy’s 15, 22, 37 Duke’s Corner 22, 37 Dundee Cake 17, 21 Dundee farmers’ market 47 Dundee Flower and Food Festival 47 Dundee orange marmalade 17 Empire State Coffee 11 Encore Bar & Brasserie 38 Espress Oh! Coffee Shop 10, 13, 38 Fife farmers’ markets 47 Fisher & Donaldson 5, 27 Fisherman’s Tavern 15, 16, 22, 43, 47 Folk Café 10, 32 Forbes of Kingennie Country Resort 45 Fort, The 16, 22, 43 Forte Café 11 Fraser’s Fruit and Veg 5, 7, 13, 29 Ganges 46 Gazeley’s Deli 28 George Orwell 22 Gin Bothy 21 Glass Pavilion, The 43 Goodfellow & Stevenson 5, 28 Gracie’s of Broughty Ferry 11, 16, 43 Grewar Farm Vending 6 Gulistan House Indian Restaurant 19, 43 Heart Space Whole Foods 5, 7, 8, 28 Henry’s Coffee House 8, 11, 32

Highland Game 23 Hugh’s Place 11, 13, 38 Iced Gems 43 Italian Grill 8, 32 Invergowrie Inn 46 Jack and Jones 32 Jessie’s Kitchen 44 Jushi 13, 18, 38 Jute Café Bar 13, 22, 38 Keillers 17 Kingdom of Fife Real Ale and Cider Festival 47 Kitchen Press 7 Kitschnbake 23, 33, 46 Kobee 8, 18, 32 Laings 22 Madigan’s Tearoom & Bookshop 11, 33 Malabar 19, 39 Malmaison Dundee 8, 33 Manchurian, The 19, 33 Mandarin Garden 13, 39 Matthew’s Foods 28 Maze 46 Meat House 12, 39 Metro 34 MòR Brewing 14 Murray’s 16, 44 Old Anchor Inn 44 Oshibori 18, 40 Palais Tea Room 8, 10, 34 Parlour Café 10, 13, 39, 40 Parrot Café, The 13, 40 Phoenix, The 15, 40 Piccolo 40 Playwright, The 4, 13, 41 Porters Bar and Restaurant 34 Project Pie 8, 12, 34 Rancho Pancho 34 Rishi’s 19, 41 Rockpool 35 Ron Bonar Beer Festival 47 RRS Discovery 15 Scott Brothers 28, 33 Ship Inn, The 44 Sol Y Sombra 16, 19, 44 Speedwell Bar, The 41 T Ann Cake 10, 35 Tartan Coffeehouse 41 Tayberry Restaurant 35, 44 Taypark House 13, 41 Tinsmith, The 13, 41 Tonic 42 Torino 35 Trades House, The 35 True Kitchen & Bar 8, 36 Verdant Spirits 21 View Restaurant, The 23, 46 Visocchi’s 5, 16, 44 West End Butchers 29 West House 13, 22, 42 Willows Coffee Shop 16, 45 Wine Press, The 36

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Larder Dundee

THE GUIDE TO THE FOOD & DRINK OF THE CITY

Dundee’s food and drink scene is transforming at a dynamic pace. Contemporary restaurants and enterprising bistros sit alongside cool coffee houses, tasteful cafés, craft beer bars and good food shops.

In turn, the city’s longer-established food and drink businesses have been inspired to assert their part in the flourishing new identity, helping to bridge Dundee’s rich heritage with its exciting future.

The Dundee Larder helps you discover the city’s revitalised food and drink landscape, delving into the stories, places and personalities which are shaping and defining it.

This informative, practical and inspirational guide to the food and drink of Dundee includes: ■ Features on the people, venues and themes at the heart of the city’s food renaissance ■ Reviews and round-ups of the best places to eat out ■ Chefs and local personalities revealing their favourite local food connections ■ Insights into the best of Dundee’s different food districts ■ Detailed listings of the best local food shops and events Part of The Larder series of guides

thelarder.net

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