The Lantern – October 17, 2019 – Buckeye Bites

The student voice of the Ohio State University

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e y e B k c i u t es B thursday, octob er year 139, Iss

17,

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BREAKFAST ON A BUDGET Breakfast sandwiches for every occasion. | P7

DIETARY RESTRICTIONS Local restaurants that accommodate all your dietary needs. | P4

AMAL SAEED | PHOTO EDITOR

Buckeye Bites

2 | The Lantern | Thursday, October 17, 2019

FEATURED LOCATIONS DISTILLERIES & BREWERIES >> P3

MEXICAN >> P7

DIETARY RESTRICTIONS >> P4

COFFEE >> P9

HAPPY HOUR >> P4

CHOCOLATE >> P10

CAFE >> P5

SANDWICHES >> P11

BREAKFAST >> P7

PIZZA >> P12

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Thursday, October 17, 2019 | The Lantern | 3

Breweries and distilleries raise the bar BEKA CAGLE Lantern reporter cagle.30@osu.edu Drinks are no longer the only thing bringing customers to breweries and distilleries.

As the Columbus, Ohio, drink scene has become increasingly competitive in recent years, breweries and distilleries are upping the ante with high-quality eats.

Legislative changes in 2016 allowed distilleries to operate a tasting room and restaurant on the same property they manufacture liquor — a valuable asset that beer-producing breweries have possessed for years. This state law amendment has led to a drastic increase in the popularity of distilleries in Columbus, Chris Davison, head brewer at Wolf’s Ridge Brewing, said. Some breweries have experienced a plateau or decline in sales, brewery managers and owners said.

Davison said it has become increasingly difficult in recent years to maintain the same levels of foot traffic through the taproom and restaurant. Columbus is home to 46 breweries, and more than half of them have opened in the past five years, according to the Columbus Ale Trail website.

He said although he believes the growing number of breweries, distilleries and bars in Columbus is positive for the industry as a whole, it has negatively impacted their sales.

“Clearly [distilleries] are probably affecting some of our business, but hopefully they’re in turn creating more interest and then the people that are interested in them become interested in us,” Davison said.

When Wolf’s Ridge first opened in 2013, it only served “small bites and snacks,” but Davison said once it began serving a full menu, sales increased drastically. The ability to serve food and operate a tasting or taproom is invaluable to any brewery or distillery, he said.

According to Ohio law, breweries are actually under a legal obligation to serve food in their taprooms, but only in recent years have they begun to hold the quality of the food being served to the same standard as their beer, Davison said.

“One of our sales people will talk about one of his old favorite bars that used to have a can of Campbell’s soup above the bar for 50 bucks that was 20 years old, and obviously no one would ever buy that, but that was their workaround for the rule,” Davison said. “New, little bars that had no money famously would have easy Mac for $10, or they’d microwave something for you, but now, laws have gotten stricter.”

Claire Spurlock, marketing manager at Watershed Kitchen & Bar, a popular distillery in Columbus, said the value the restaurant adds to its business is immense. Spurlock said they didn’t originally plan on operating a restaurant when Watershed Distillery opened in 2010, but when they realized they were struggling

BEKA CAGLE | LANTERN REPORTER

to get customers to stick around, they knew changes had to be made.

The changes that were made to Ohio legislation in 2016 were a collective effort between Watershed co-founder, Greg Lehman, and other Ohio distillers, Spurlock said.

Davison said it has become increasingly difficult over the years to open a successful brewery because the competition has gotten so intense.

“Now we’re starting to see breweries close. Competition’s getting really fierce, and along with that we’re seeing the rise of all these non beer spirits or alcoholic beverages taking hold,” Davison said.

“We think that as more people enter the drink scene, whether that’s breweries, distilleries or just great bars and restaurants that open, then that makes more of a diverse landscape and honestly brings the quality up for all of us.”

CLAIRE SPURLOCK Marketing manager at Watershed Kitchen & Bar

Some of the breweries that have closed include Four String Brewing Co. in 2018, RAM Restaurant and Brewery in 2018, Zauber Brewing in 2017 and Neil House Brewery in 2013.

Michael Byrne, brewer and co-owner of Lineage Brewing,

said he views distilleries as allies to breweries and thinks the increase in competition has only made his business better and provided the city with better options to grab food and a drink.

“Spirits are growing faster than beer,” Byrne said. “I think beer is mature, and the growth is going to slow like any other mature business, and we’ll have to find a way to compete with spirits.”

More than half of the customers who come through the doors of Lineage Brewing order both drinks and food, Byrne said. The value of both serving food and operating a taproom is extremely crucial to his brewery because it not only brings in more business, but encourages customers to stay longer and order more, he said.

“For us, [having food] is super important,” Byrne said. “The food is part of our brand and part of who we are.”

Byrne said he believes the casual atmosphere and affordability of beer is something people will always value and something distilleries can’t quite achieve with their generally more upscale ambience.

Collin Castore, co-owner of Seventh Son Brewing Company, said the ability to serve food is an extremely important part of operating a taproom or distillery. Rather than having its own kitchen, Seventh Son hosts a daily rotating food truck from local restaurants, including Hai Poke and Dos Hermanos.

Castore said since Seventh Son opened in Columbus in 2013, the drink scene has become much more saturated.

“What people drink kind of shifts subtly all the time,” Castore said. “Maybe it’ll be a point or two towards wine one year, it’ll be a point or two towards beer, but overall it seems like things remain pretty steady. I think it’s just a time in general when people are paying more attention to every-

thing they eat and drink — especially the alcohol that they drink.”

Both Castore and Davison said their breweries have a strong relationship with Watershed. Seventh Son even teams up with Watershed for an informal monthly series during which both Watershed and Seventh Son each feature the other’s drinks on the last Sunday of each month during their service industry nights.

Castore said he values the relationship Seventh Son and Watershed have and is happy to see the spike in distillery popularity because he believes there is enough

room in Columbus for everyone to produce their own products for a specific audience.

“There’s such a wide variety [of alcohol], and there’s enough different ideas out there that everybody should be fine, and hopefully it raises awareness in general that there’s people doing interesting things in Columbus,” he said.

Spurlock said Watershed partners with breweries as often as possible, and she views the relationship between breweries and distilleries as ‘cohesive and collaborative.’

“We love working with breweries in town. We feel like craft spirits and craft beer share a lot of the same framework and fans, honestly, and environment,” Spurlock said. “People have been rallying around craft beer for even longer in Ohio, it feels like, than craft spirits, but luckily there’s room for both. We never look to the other breweries or even the other distilleries as competitors that we want to beat, you know?

We want to work with them.”

Spurlock said she sees the Columbus drink scene as strong, but as the city’s population grows, there will be even more opportunities for the scene to grow and new businesses to open.

“We are really excited about the drink scene in Columbus, and we would love to be a part of what moves it forward creatively,” Spurlock said. “We think that as more people enter the drink scene, whether that’s breweries, distilleries or just great bars and restaurants that open, then that makes more of a diverse landscape and honestly brings the quality up for all of us.”

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Got dietary restrictions?

A list of accommodating restaurants for every occasion AKAYLA GARDNER | NEWS DIRECTOR

AKAYLA GARDNER News Director gardner.1199@osu.edu Your friends are talking about going out to eat. Immediately, your anxiety sets in, and you’re fumbling through Yelp to find the closest restaurants with options that fit your dietary needs.

I’ve been there. As a former vegan who is lactose intolerant and allergic to gluten and nuts, finding a place to eat isn’t always easy. Fortunately, more restaurants are getting the memo, offering allergen-free menu items and vegan and vegetarian options.

Here are some restaurants in the area that accommodate for every occasion, even for your friends without dietary restrictions.

Bareburger - 463 N. High St. Bareburger is the holy grail of accommodating burger joints.

I first went to Bareburger this

summer in New York, where the restaurant was founded. I was so excited to find the restaurant in Columbus.

The burger spot boasts a menu that is one-third vegetarian and plant-based, according to its website. Bareburger labels its menu for vegan options, nuts, GMOs and gluten-free items.

The fast-casual joint offers an Impossible Burger and a Beyond Burger — plant-based burgers by Impossible Foods and Beyond Meats, respectively — and its own veggie burger recipes to suit every veggie burger fan, as well as a Beyond brand hot dog. You can also build your own burger with several fun and flavorful toppings such as caramelized onions, pickled red onions and alfalfa.

The staff cooks food in separate fryers, pans and grills to ensure there is no cross-contamination, according to its website. Bare-

burger also offers a hard-copy allergy chart so customers can see all the allergens in every food.

The vegan milkshake is heavenly, but a bit pricey at $8. The restaurant is fairly expensive in general for a fast-casual feel, especially if you get a side — such as french fries and onion rings — with your meal. I still believe the food is worth the price every once in a while.

My order: An American burger on a gluten-free bun with no cheese. The stone-ground mustard is an amazing addition, as well. My total was $20.46 with tip.

Blunch - 2973 N. High St. I didn’t develop a gluten allergy until I was in high school. It was hard to stop eating sandwiches and my favorite cereals, but of all the food I had to give up, I miss breakfast the most, which is why Blunch — a breakfast and lunch

place — is near and dear to my heart.

My personal favorite from the menu: gluten-free pancakes. The pancakes are a bit sweet, almost like a pastry, but delicious. They also sell the pancake mix in store, so you can make them at home.

The bright, energetic and highly Instagrammable restaurant labels its menu for vegetarian, gluten-free and dairy-free options.

My order: “Better than Basics” pancakes. My sides are usually fruit or bacon. My total was $12.50.

Melt Bar and Grill - 840 N. High St. I was an instant fan of Melt Bar and Grill. Its speciality is cheesy sandwiches, but it has options for everyone.

The website states, “We want all our customers to enjoy Melt worry-free.”

Melt is a great spot if you’re looking for adventurous flavors and hearty sandwiches, such as the mighty macaroni or Cleveland cheese steak. The restaurant offers separate gluten-free and vegan menus.

You don’t have to miss out on any of Melt’s cheesy goodness if you’re avoiding dairy, because Melt offers both vegan cheddar and mozzarella cheese.

It uses toasted gluten-free sliced bread, which is also vegan, unlike others that contain eggs or milk. When I ordered, the bread was toasted to a crisp, just the way I like it.

It’s a quirky restaurant with holiday decorations year-round, cartoon murals and arcade games lining the lobby. It also has a sports-bar feel, with televisions

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all over the restaurant, so customers can watch the game while eating their food.

My order: The El Diablo burger is a must if you’re a fan of spicy food. The burger is rubbed in hot and spicy dried pepper and topped with fresh jalapeno peppers and pepper-jack cheese, and the sweet chipotle sauce is mouth-watering.

My total was $20.58.

The Guild House - 624 N. High St. The Guild House offers food that is locally sourced and made from scratch, according to its website. Usually, the servers are more than willing to work with dietary restrictions.

The menu features labels for vegan and gluten-free options.

The Guild House is best suited for special occasions, as it is the most high-end on this list, both in appearance and price. The filet dinner entree rings in at $40.

The inside of the restaurant is beautiful — both chic and rustic with wood furnishing, leather chairs and elegant lighting. The food is classic American and farm-fresh, but emphasizes artistry and presentation. The Guild House uses unique and healthy ingredients.

In my experience, the restaurant doesn’t offer large portions when compared with the average American restaurant, and I wasn’t really full after my meal. However, the experience was memorable and the food very Instagram-worthy.

My order: Smoked Chicken Hash for breakfast with no gouda ($15) and orange juice ($5).

Happy Hour Squad Review: Arch City Tavern LILY MASLIA Outreach & Engagement Editor maslia.2@osu.edu ANNA RIPKEN Copy Chief ripken.2@osu.edu The Short North gastropub Arch City Tavern has its fair share of deals ($5 burger Mondays, anyone?), but the local bar and restaurant’s happy hour also grabs serious attention. Half-off draft beer, half-off wine by the glass and half-off pizza could please anyone who enters the dimly lit establishment.

Arch City has never been very busy in personal experience, and in this particular instance, our server was efficient and friendly, with our drinks and food arriving quickly, allowing us to enjoy them right away. The bar’s beer menu, written on a large, decorative chalkboard, made our discounted

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beverage selection effortless, as did the happy hour-specific menu sheet and the full menu booklets.

Anna In true spirit of the happy hour, I opted for a pick off the pizza list.

With four options ranging from a traditional margherita style to more obscure selections with fig and arugula, there is something for everyone.

I ordered the fig and arugula pizza, which came with prosciutto and goat cheese. While I could have done without the figs (I wasn’t really sure of my stance on the fruit until this moment), the pizza was generously topped.

The arugula was fresh and drizzled with lemon juice, allowing me to feel healthy without ordering a salad. The prosciutto was an interesting but delicious element, and I absolutely love goat cheese — that was really the reason I ordered this pizza in the first place.

As for the size of the pizza, you

get eight decently sized slices — enough to feel full at happy hour dinner and for a second dinner later in the night.

My fig and arugula choice was $7, the most expensive of the four options, but definitely worth the extra dollar since it’s already half off.

Lily I came into Arch City knowing what I wanted: the slider sister of the famous Amish Chicken Sandwich. The sliders on the happy hour menu ring in at $6. Once my food was delivered, something wasn’t quite right. I received the Arch City Sliders, not the Amish Chicken Sliders. I soon realized (because Anna informed me) I had panicked and accidentally ordered the Arch City Sliders in my post-fall break haze. Oh, well.

The sliders were not just traditional hamburger sliders. There was also bacon, avocado, onions and an unidentifiable sweet and

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tangy orange sauce that tied the slider together. I wouldn’t have been mad if there was more sauce, though.

The meal came with three sliders and a side of house barbecue chips. While I was a little put off that I wasn’t eating the light and pesto-y Amish Chicken Sliders, I still thoroughly enjoyed the Arch City option, which was a nice treat for someone who rarely eats red meat. I would definitely order again.

Summary With discounted food and drink prices, Arch City’s happy hour is a great place to grab a cheap meal. The restaurant has romantic lighting, even during the day, but the high-top chairs and tables next to the Letters to the Editor To submit a letter to the editor, either mail or email your letter. Please put your name, address, phone number and email address on the letter. If the editor decides to publish it, he or she will contact you to confirm your identity.

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open windows were perfect for an early dinner with a friend.

Arch City Tavern’s happy hour is 3-6 p.m. Monday through Friday. The restaurant is located at 862 N. High St. in the Short North.

ANNA RIPKEN | COPY CHIEF

Corrections The Lantern corrects any significant error brought to the attention of the staff. If you think a correction is needed, please email lanternnewsroom@gmail.com

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Thursday, October 17, 2019 | The Lantern | 5

Heirloom Cafe undergoes ownership change TREVOR SIMPSON Lantern reporter simpson.728@osu.edu When John and Kimberly Skaggs were sought out by the Wexner Center for the Arts to run a new cafe in 2011, ownership of a restaurant hadn’t necessarily been in the couple’s thoughts for the future, Kimberly Skaggs said.

“It wasn’t something that we had actually planned on. It just happened to be that people knew our history and what our skill set was,” Skaggs said. “We’ve always had a lot of experience in the business. We had always talked about, ‘If we had our own place, this is what we would do.’”

The couple has a storied career in restaurant service between them, cooking and managing at various Columbus, Ohio, eateries. After an eight-year run as co-owners of Heirloom Cafe, the Skaggs are deciding to go out on their own terms.

“The reason we did it was because we’ve been there for 8 1/2 years, and I’m tired. It’s really that simple,” Skaggs said. “It’s not what I wanted to do, but you know, life kind of tells you, ‘You physically can’t do things you want to.’”

The Skaggs officially sold Heirloom to Jeremy Fox, owner of Fox’s Food, LLC, Monday, Skaggs, said.

Fox said he’s been in the restaurant and food industry since 2011, when he opened the Short North Bagel Deli. The deli originally opened as a food cart, but increased demand led to the addition of a food truck that stands inside both Ohio Stadium and the

the years and was ready to jump on the opportunity.

“After meeting with [Skaggs] and meeting the staff, everything looked good,” Fox said.

TREVOR SIMPSON | LANTERN REPORTER

Jeremy Fox is the owner of Heirloom Cafe after completing the purchase on Oct. 14.

Schottenstein Center.

Fox said he still owns the Short North Bagel Deli, along with Blocks Bagels Bexley. He said his goal is to have a “restaurant group,” so when he saw Heirloom was up for sale, he did research on how the cafe was run over

“And obviously, the food is topnotch, and the location on campus is perfect.”

Fox said he doesn’t have any plans to make changes to how Heirloom operates, other than adding some bagels to the menu, of course.

“I equate it to Ryan Day taking over for Urban Meyer. It wasn’t a weakness move; it was a strength move,” Fox said. “I’m going to do my best to run it the exact same way.”

Despite the change in ownership, Fox said it’s important to continue the traditions and standards set by the Skaggs.

Heirloom’s goal has remained the same: Source as much of the

food from as close to home as possible, Kimberly Skaggs said.

Up until 2014, Skaggs said they grew herbs outside of the Wexner Center, a testament to their commitment to staying local. She said it was a “big part” of what they did, but they eventually outgrew the spot.

After an unsuccessful trial run at their home, Skaggs said they moved operations back inside the HEIRLOOM CONTINUES ON 9

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Thursday, October 17, 2019 | The Lantern | 7

BUDGETING BREAKFAST

NICHOLAS YOUNGBLOOD Arts&Life Editor youngblood.27@osu.edu

REVIEW

GRIFFIN STROM Sports Editor strom.25@osu.edu

W

hen it comes to eating out, reviews tend to focus on taste. For the average college student, however, the first thought is more often, “What’s cheap?” In an effort to bridge the divide, I teamed up with our trusty sports editor to provide a cost-benefit review for the most important meal of the day: Breakfast. Specifically, we were on a mission to figure out whether it’s worth it to shell out a little more for a higher quality breakfast sandwich. Here is what we found:

DUNKIN’ DONUTS

$

Sausage, Egg and Cheese Sandwich — $4.19

The sandwich came out in less than a minute after I ordered, which was honestly kind of concerning. It was salty, gooey and saggy —definitely the furthest thing from fresh. Still, it didn’t feel like a ripoff, considering it was dirt cheap.

GRIFFIN

$$

The Elevated Egg Sandwich — $10.49

The basics: egg, American cheese and sausage on a croissant. A quick and dirty breakfast that gets the job done.

NICHOLAS

FIRST WATCH

An over-easy egg, bacon, Gruyere cheese, avocado, mayo and lemon-dressed arugula on a brioche bun with a side of seasoned potatoes. Certainly a step up, but is it worth more than double the price of Dunkin’?

NICHOLAS

The egg was as clean as they come — nice and smooth with no gristle — but the yolk was cooked through, and I am a big fan of a runny sandwich. The bacon was nice and crispy. Despite the impressive ingredients list, I can’t say it blew my mind. It was lacking in seasoning.

Certainly better than Dunkin’, but not something I would buy again.

Opting for the low(er) calorie option, I sank my teeth into an egg, ham and cheese english muffin for the same price. No bells and whisGRIFFIN tles here — just a homogenous, thin Partial to the seasonal stylings and fresh stack of breakfast essentials, lackingredients provided at First Watch, my ing a discernible flavor that may first experience with this particular menu give an edge to the McDonald’s item was a pleasure. The welcomed addiEgg McMuffin. Serviceable if for tion of avocado and arugula dressed the nothing else than to quickly safamiliar breakfast formula up for a fancier tiate the stomach and esophagus affair, and the buttery brioche bun created for a low-priced bite on the go. a melt-in-your-mouth bite. I could see the sandwich alone going for $10, therefore the side of potatoes gave the dish an added bang for your buck.

AMAL SAEED | PHOTO EDITOR

GRIFFIN STROM | SPORTS EDITOR

LINDEY’S restaurant & bar

$$$

NICHOLAS

Eggs Lindey’s — $17.00

If you’re just looking for something greasy to fill your stomach, don’t bother trying for a fancy diner. Eggs and cheese on bread is hard to mess up, even at the cheapest price point. Surprisingly, it can be worth spending the big bucks if you’re looking for a memorable breakfast experience.

Two steak filets and poached eggs on English muffins with tasso ham hollandaise, served with a side of spicy rosemary potatoes. Technically an open face sandwich, with all the essential ingredients in a far fancier setting.

NICHOLAS

This thing was absolutely incredible. The steak was juicy and perfectly cooked. The eggs were runny. Hollandaise was creamy and delicious. I would actually order this again, and I wouldn’t even feel guilty about it. Definitely worth the splurge.

GRIFFIN

When you walk into a top-flight restaurant serving $50-plus steaks, receiving a wholly satisfying meal for $17 is more than commendable. Upping the ante from bacon or ham, Lindey’s pairs your breakfast with small cuts of steak cooked to perfection.

Even the spicy potatoes put the First Watch recipe to shame. If not an everyday affordance, this is a delicacy worth an occasional bougie brunch trip.

NICHOLAS YOUNGBLOOD | ARTS&LIFE EDITOR

CONCLUSION

GRIFFIN

For a man who can cook little more than eggs with any dexterity, I take my breakfasts in an array of shapes, sizes and price points.

However, I’d recommend skipping out on Dunkin’ in favor of something home-cooked, unless you’re willing to shell out a bit more for the upscale in ingredients that somewhere like First Watch can provide in order to spruce up your morning or early afternoon.

“Eggs and cheese on bread is hard to mess up, even at the cheapest price point.”

NICHOLAS YOUNGBLOOD Arts & Life Editor

Battle of the Mexican fast casual chains ANNA RIPKEN Copy Chief ripken.2@osu.edu It’s an age-old debate. Is Chipotle Mexican Grill or Qdoba Mexican Eats the superior restaurant when it comes to Mexican fast food? (Sorry, Moe’s Southwest Grill.)

As someone who previously preferred Qdoba, but now will excitedly eat Chipotle at any place and time, I decided to sit down and really think about what makes both of these restaurants worthy of the title. Ultimately, readers will have to decide for themselves, but I am here to get people thinking about what influences their preferences for either establishment.

I compared my typical order from both restaurants: A chicken burrito bowl. That is, a bowl with white rice, black beans, chicken, mild salsa, corn, sour cream, cheese, guacamole and lettuce.

For college students, focusing on the more cost-effective option seems like the way to go. In this instance — the same order for both places — Qdoba wins out at

$7.95 without tax, while Chipotle weighs in at $9 without tax.

I’m sure we all know why: Qdoba does not charge for its guacamole — or its queso, which I find to be better than Chipotle’s.

However, I decided not to include this ingredient in my analysis, as Qdoba’s queso has been around longer, meaning more time to perfect the recipe. Chipotle only introduced the cheesy topping in 2017.

But don’t take it from me. Take it from another fellow Buckeye.

“I like Qdoba because you don’t pay for guac or queso separately, and the portions are bigger,” Alex Roldan, a fifth-year in economics, said. “The seasoning for Chipotle is slightly tastier, but overall, Qdoba is just more bang for your buck.”

I initially gravitated toward Qdoba for similar reasons, and it was more accessible from where I used to live. It always tasted good, so I never felt the need to stray.

Then, I got to know Chipotle.

Its freshness and the fact that it was always busy swayed me. I would turn back to Qdoba every once in a while, only to realize

that the ingredients in my bowl didn’t make me feel as clean or healthy as I felt while eating Chipotle. Today, for that reason, I am a strong Chipotle advocate, but that does not mean I turn my nose up at an occasional Qdoba bowl.

For some, the choice is a little less nuanced.

“I hate Qdoba, so [I obviously] choose Chipotle,” Nadia Musleh, a fifth-year in psychology, said. “I had Qdoba, and I just felt like the flavors didn’t work well together.”

While Qdoba’s quality might be in question, it feels like more food in general, even disregarding the variety of options on the menu.

Maybe it’s the shape of the burrito bowl — a circle compared to Chipotle’s oval. Maybe I’m imagining it, but at first glance, Qdoba seems to offer a larger amount of food in general when it comes to the bowl.

That’s not to say Chipotle is hesitant to throw on the toppings you desire to perfect your burrito bowl. I’m basing this strictly on what I see when I order a bowl from both establishments. Either way, I am left extremely full and perhaps with leftovers depending

REVIEW

CORI WADE | ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR

on the kind of day I’m having.

One student I talked to opted out of the debate of which was better almost entirely.

“I don’t have much of an opinion about Qdoba,” Summer McLain, a graduate student in agricultural communication, education and leadership, said. “I have only eaten their food when it was available for free at functions during my undergrad. I prefer the taste of Chipotle, but [as] a member of the agricultural industry, I hate how they portray the Amer-

ican farmer with their anti-GMO, antibiotic-free propaganda. They use the scare tactic to sell their food, so I don’t eat there.”

When choosing a favorite Mexican chain, it really depends on what people consider the deciding factor. Whether you try your hardest to save money, prefer what generally tastes better, enjoy a larger serving size or opt out of the debate completely, one thing is for certain: Chipotle and Qdoba are here to stay.

8 | The Lantern | Thursday, October 17, 2019

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Thursday, October 17, 2019 | The Lantern | 9

Behind stress cooking Why I love baking, explained

SAM RAUDINS Campus Editor raudins.3@osu.edu

I remember standing in my grandmother’s kitchen in Wooster, Ohio, making orange drop cookies. She was the queen of home cooking, with a specialization in comfort food and bread. This is a childhood favorite that is also a major crowd-pleaser among my friends with a super fluffy consistency and just enough orange flavor to leave you wanting more.

COOKIES: 1 cup unsalted butter 2 cups sugar 2 eggs 1 orange, juice and zest 1 cup milk 4 1/2 cups flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt

ICING: 2 tablespoons salted butter, softened Juice, pulp and zest of one orange Powdered sugar, add to spreading consistency

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Cream butter and sugar together. Add eggs, juice, pulp and zest.

Sift together dry ingredients, and mix with the wet ingredients.

Add milk.

Drop by teaspoon on cookie sheet; they spread out quite a bit.

Bake until lightly brown around the edges.

While the cookies bake, combine icing ingredients. Add powdered sugar to spreading consistency. Ice when cool.

Sharing a meal or baked good with anyone is a deeply personal experience; it’s a form of expression. It’s a skill, and often it forms a connection. For as long as I can remember, that’s exactly the role it played in my life, but its place in my life has evolved as I’ve become older — and now I’m searching for the reasons why.

Some of my earliest memories revolve around my family’s dinner table. I remember the night I learned to twirl spaghetti on a fork, and I can still recall how my hands grew sore in elementary school after piping frosting onto a Christmas tree cake for a competition.

My mom ran a custom cake business out of our kitchen for most of my conscious childhood, creating three-dimensional and completely edible creations for every occasion. My dad was the king of Sunday dinner and cooking without a recipe. With a few culinarily inclined grandparents also in the mix, I should have been cooking and baking since I learned to walk.

Although it didn’t happen immediately, I have come to love the kitchen, but it ironically came at a time when I was living in the dorms at Ohio State with little to no kitchen access. It only grew more intense as I moved into an apartment with about 3 square feet of counter space and one

Stauf’s new heavenly location ASHLEY KIMMEL Assistant Arts&Life Editor kimmel.103@osu.edu From hymns to cold brew, a popular coffee shop is now doing business in an unexpected place.

Stauf’s Coffee Roasters expanded in September to what used to be the Neil Avenue Presbyterian Church, which was built in 1905 in Victorian Village, according to the Columbus Metropolitan Library website.

Though the building is not a church anymore, the interior still features stained glass, high ceilings and individual church pews for seating.

Olivia Hunt, a team manager and third-year in biology, said the interior was designed to feel spacious and comfortable in hopes of attracting more students.

“I feel like this location — I’ve worked the other ones — and I really like this one because you feel more at peace, and that was the intention, was to create more of a study center,” Hunt said.

Hunt said the location still offers pastries but has a more limited menu compared with others, so there can be a stronger focus on the items they do offer, such as espresso drinks.

“We wanted to make this one more of a sit down, feel comfortable and stay awhile type of environment, rather than more of

drawer.

Now, when I’m sad or stressed, I bake. When my friends are having a hard time, my first reaction is to make something for them. I look forward to meal preparation, and I volunteer to make birthday cakes for others. My relationship with food has become a reflex no matter the situation, but an almost unexplainable one — aside from my genetic predisposition.

As a college student with a love of cooking and baking, I set out to discover why I love it so much in the name of science. My search led me to Kate Shumaker, a family and consumer sciences educator at Ohio State who serves Holmes County Ohio by teaching cooking classes.

Shumaker said in terms of stress management, cooking and baking can either be an outlet or source of stress. Preparing food can get someone in the “zone,” where they forget about the rest of the world, but it can also create stress, especially for people who feel they have no kitchen skills, Shumaker said.

Shumaker said the kitchen does not have to be a source of anxiety, though.

“Truthfully, if you can follow directions, you can cook,” Shumaker said.

In terms of getting enjoyment from cooking for others, Shumaker said preparing food for people not only produces a good feeling, but serves as its own language.

She said food conveys love and tradition, and people celebrate

every occasion with food.

“If we have anything happy or sad happening in our life, there’s food. Oftentimes, if there’s not words, there’s food,” Shumaker said.

Despite majoring in journalism, I, too, sometimes find that words aren’t enough, leading me to the kitchen. It can be an act of kindness and love, and we’ve all heard that actions speak louder than words.

Cooking is a skill to build on, and mastery doesn’t happen overnight. Shumaker said once someone feels the gratification of completing a quick and easy recipe, they gradually become more confident in experimenting with flavors and changing recipes.

In my case, this is especially true. At some point, I went from barely being able to produce a hard-boiled egg to trying to master layer cakes. I enjoyed the challenge, and I still do.

I recognize that my kitchen hobby isn’t a reality for most college students — others often say they don’t have the time or skills.

Shumaker said her advice for anyone looking to develop their kitchen skills is to start with the basics and go from there.

In the end, Shumaker and I both agreed that even the simplest of recipes can create a rewarding feeling.

“There’s also something altruistic about preparing food for others and getting a little bit into that selflessness,” Shumaker said.

HEIRLOOM FROM 5

ground turkey with fiesta pinto beans, white cheddar, cilantro, crumbled tortilla chips and romaine lettuce tossed with cumin-lime dressing. The quinoa salad starts with a base of either chicken or baked tofu with arugula, spinach, red quinoa, garbanzo beans, feta, toasted Brazil nuts and a cumin-lime vinaigrette.

Skaggs said owning the cafe has been a joy for her, and she’ll miss the place immensely.

The word “heirloom” has two different meanings, and Skaggs said each is intended to be represented in the spirit of the restaurant.

“For [the younger] generation, ‘heirloom’ means food, but to an older generation, ‘heirloom’ means something that was passed down, like an antique or that kind of thing,” Skaggs said. “It was really important to us to honor what was important to us.”

Now, Skaggs will pass the cafe down to Fox. She said she’ll forever cherish the opportunity she had to own the place.

“When I look back at what was the most important thing to me, having a cafe is the opportunity to get to know people,” Skaggs said.

“Being able to be part of someone’s life at such a pivotal, important part of their life has been such an honor.”

Heirloom Cafe is open from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. on weekdays. Ohio State meal plans are not accepted as a form of payment, though BuckID cash is accepted.

Wexner Center.

“Now, we do mostly herbs and planters out back of the cafe,” she said. “They are things that are not accessible to the public, but you can see it over the ledge.”

Another important facet of Heirloom’s operations is sourcing from smaller, family-run businesses or farms that are ethically and sustainably run, Skaggs said.

“I equate it to Ryan Day taking over for Urban Meyer. It wasn’t a weakness move; it was a strength move.”

JEREMY FOX New owner of Heirloom Cafe

ASHLEY KIMMEL | ASSISTANT ARTS&LIFE EDITOR

a hustle, bustle type of environment,” Hunt said.

The shop’s renovated-church locale is not the only thing that sets this Stauf’s apart from other locations, however.

Devon Olding, general manager and an Ohio State alumnus, said this is the only Stauf’s to use nitro cold brew — a cold-brewed coffee infused with nitrogen to add foam on top of the drink, served without ice.

Though the location does not

have a parking lot, Olding said the side of the building is equipped with bike stations.

In the future, Olding said the business plans to implement dogleash stations as a place for customers to safely leave their pets.

The newest addition of Stauf’s Coffee Roasters is located at 1334 Neil Ave. Stauf’s is open Monday through Friday from 6:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Another requirement, though not an absolute necessity, is to get organic food.

“At every step, we have to decide: Can we find what we need in the volume that we need close?”

Skaggs said. “If not, then we have to switch to something else. But we try to make the best choices that we can.”

The menu features vegan options and locally sourced meats, such as turkey, chicken and pork.

The crowd favorites are the fiesta taco bowl and quinoa salad, Skaggs said.

The fiesta bowl includes spiced

10 | The Lantern | Thursday, October 17, 2019

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Review: Chocolate Cafe hits sweet spot NICHOLAS YOUNGBLOOD Arts&Life Editor youngblood.27@osu.edu

There are plenty of cafes, bakeries, sweet shops and bars around campus, but when I heard I could get all of these options in one spot, I was immediately intrigued. Chocolate Cafe proved you can (almost) have it all.

The cafe is just a short drive west of campus on Northwest Boulevard, and I’m honestly shocked more students haven’t heard of it. My partner and I visited to get a sampling of its broad menu.

The signature offering — outside of its extensive selection of cakes and sweets— is the spiked hot chocolate. It comes in several varieties, spruced up with spirits ranging from vodka to Kahluato bourbon. I opted for the Hot Scotch, which mixes creamy hot chocolate with sweet butterscotch schnapps, topped with whipped cream and chocolate shavings. It was sizable, piping hot and absolutely delicious, not to mention potent. An $8 price tag might seem steep, but I have paid far more for much worse cocktails in my time.

My companion opted for a nonboozy option with the frozen chocolate chai latte. This actually wasn’t a menu item, but the baris-

NICHOLAS YOUNGBLOOD | ARTS&LIFE EDITOR

ta offered to complete the special request, and it turned out great. It was well-mixed — not too overwhelming between the strong flavors of chocolate and chai.

Despite not being the Chocolate Cafe’s advertised focus, the lunch food was surprisingly tasty. Plus, almost all of its sandwiches, soups and salads are under or around the $10 mark. I ordered a brie BLT,

which was absolutely delicious.

There was a generous spread of sweet, creamy cheese across both slices of bread. My partner got the cafe’s new roast beef cheddar melt, which offered a sizable portion of meat and perhaps a bit too much ranch. I also got a halfsize Cajun chicken salad, which was bizarrely more Tex-Mex than anything, with black beans and

salsa. Still, it hit the spot.

And then, of course, there were the confections. Chocolate Cafe has a selection that promises to rot the sweet tooth right out of your mouth. Cakes rising more than a foot tall and everything you could imagine covered in chocolate and sold by the pound filled a display case that made me want to throw away all of my buttoned

pants. The most notable was the Big Boy Buckeye, a sphere of chocolate-covered peanut butter the size of a softball. The staff suggested we try Buckeye pretzels, and they were a perfect mix of salty, savory and sweet.

My final selection of the afternoon was a plain black coffee, an essential test for any cafe. I have to say, this was the one spot where Chocolate Cafe disappointed. It was watery, weak and stale — hard to notice when compounded with sugar and chocolate, but an oddly important detail to overlook.

Still, I would gladly recommend Chocolate Cafe. I certainly plan to go back myself, especially considering it offers all-you-caneat chocolate fondue for $9 on Friday nights, in addition to an assortment of sweet cocktails.

I would love to see the quaint, friendly joint become a new student hot spot.

Chocolate Cafe is located at 1855 Northwest Blvd. and is open from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday, 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Saturday, and 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Sunday.

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4. Sandler or Arkin 8. Toddler’s lesson 12. Flier to Tel Aviv (2 wds.)

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60. Unsuccessful candidate 21. Neither here ____ there 61. Irritate 23. Litter member 63. Omar of “House” 25. Lease 64. Shimmered 27. Serpent’s tooth 65. Visitor to Siam 28. Soprano’s piece 66. Melee 29. Polka ____ 67. Connecting words 30. Shorten pants 68. Treats leather 31. In’s opposite 69. USN officer (abbr.)

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REVIEW The good, the fat, the ugly

Comparing deep cuts from the PJ’s menu NICHOLAS YOUNGBLOOD Arts&Life Editor youngblood.27@osu.edu From Apollo’s Greek Kitchen to Catfish Biff’s Pizza & Subs to the famous Buckeye Donuts, there are plenty of solid options for late-night bites. For Buckeyes who find themselves less concerned with counting calories, there is a dark horse in the herd whose gluttony knows no bounds.

I am, of course, referring to the infamous PJ’s Sandwiches. Football-sized hoagies house several meals’ worth of the lowest-quality bar food imaginable, and the most popular options sport names we cannot print. Who would stack chicken tenders, beer fries, mac ’n’ cheese wedges, mozzarella sticks, buffalo sauce and ranch on a single sandwich and name it after a sexist slur? A staff clearly unconcerned with the laws of God and good taste, that’s who.

Still, there is an undeniable appeal to the place. Like moths to a flame, intoxicated students flock to PJ’s every weekend for a hefty helping of deep-fried, artery-clogging cuisine. While most order from a small list of “safe” options, we here at The Lantern wanted to see what other options were hiding in the dusty corners of the PJ’s “specialty” menu. I was joined by Editor-in-Chief Kaylee Harter, Copy Chief Anna Ripken and Assistant Arts&Life Editor Ashley Kimmel. Here, we have compiled a list of six subs that jumped out to us from Ohio State’s bad boy of the dining scene. I promise at least one was fit for human consumption.

Fat Puma

TOPPINGS Chicken tenders, bacon strips, shredded cheese, mozzarella sticks, potato skins, lettuce, tomato and ranch.

RATINGS Nicholas: Immediately upon unwrapping, this sandwich was dripping. It was drowned in about a gallon of watery ranch. The bacon was vile, as well. Overall, not recommended, although I cannot recommend any PJ’s sandwich in good conscience.

Kaylee: This one pretty much just tasted like ranch. I like ranch, so the fact that it drowned out the taste of the rest of the potentially questionable ingredients was all right with me.

Anna: You can’t go wrong with bacon, right?

Wrong: PJ’s has proved you can. I’m not sure how the restaurant was capable of messing up my favorite breakfast meat.

Ashley: The chicken tenders on this helped my rating, but the ranch threw me off a bit. The mozzarella sticks were a bit cold.

Veggie Fat Cat

TOPPINGS Garden burger, American cheese, fries, lettuce, tomato, onion, mayo and ketchup.

RATINGS Nicholas: With fake meat on what already barely constitutes real food, this sub started at a disadvantage. A second mark against it for being soaked in ketchup, a topping that does not belong on any sandwich in the first place. Bland overall, but bland is honestly a blessing.

Kaylee: If I wanted this many vegetables, I would have ordered a salad, and if I wanted

a salad, I wouldn’t have come to PJ’s. Also there was too much ketchup.

Anna: This sandwich was by far my worst PJ’s experience of the night. I’m not a vegetarian, but I will dabble in vegetarian options, and this vegetable patty has absolutely no business calling itself a “garden burger.”

Ashley: This ended up being a ketchup and lettuce sub, and it was honestly terrible. I also think if you put ketchup on a sandwich, you are either a child or a psychopath. I felt personally attacked by this order.

Fat Din-Din

TOPPINGS Steak, sour cream, nacho cheese, bacon bits, corn nuggets, potato skins and mozzarella sticks.

RATINGS Nicholas: There are not enough quotes in the world to put around the “bacon bits” on this sandwich. At least the steak was probably made of beef. The bacon bits were vibrantly red and looked more like Himalayan rock-salt than pieces of pork belly. With woefully inadequate sour cream, this thing was bone dry and tough to stomach.

Kaylee: This one sounded good to me, but I was sadly disappointed. The corn nuggets were almost a saving grace, but alas, dryness persisted.

Anna: I was excited for the sour cream on here because it seemed like an unexpected ingredient, which made me think, “Hmm, maybe this actually works together.” Let me assure you it did not.

Ashley: The bacon bits looked like a fun time but I promise they were not, and I felt lied to.

Smokin Hottie

TOPPINGS Cayenne cheese steak, jalapeno peppers, jalapeno poppers, beer fries, shredded cheese and buffalo sauce.

RATINGS Nicholas: Repugnant. Vile. Crude. Indecent. Unholy. There are not enough negative adjectives for this abomination. I like spicy food, but it can quickly cross from thrilling to revolting if the quality is low, and the quality here was on the floor and swept under the fridge. My body rejected this sandwich like a bad skin graft. I wish I could have the memory of eating it surgically removed.

Kaylee: I may be in the minority here, but Smokin Hottie was a dark horse. The beer fries were delicious, and the random assortment of spicy foods somehow worked.

This one was a wild ride, but I’d do it again.

Anna: My sensitive mouth can only handle so much spice, and the Smokin Hottie had too much of that. The spicy cheese steak was definitely the worst part too — tasted like dog food.

Ashley: It can be pretty difficult to eat really anything when it is drenched in sauce, especially if the sauce is already spicy. I did like the spice though. I just think the sandwich could use less of it.

Fat Turkey TOPPINGS

Sliced turkey, mashed potatoes, gravy, corn nuggets and shredded cheese.

RATINGS Nicholas: I never expected to say this, but it was actually good. As one of the few PJ’s offerings with a responsible number of toppings that actually relate to one another, it turned out pretty palatable. The gravy gave adequate moisture, the corn offered a touch of sweetness and the cheese bound it all together nicely.

Kaylee: I always say you can’t go wrong with mashed potatoes and gravy, and this one proved my point. The golden nuggets of corn were a treasure and the sandwich’s savory mushiness was the embodiment of comfort food.

Anna: You won’t catch me going home for Thanksgiving anymore. I’ll simply be walking into PJ’s on the last Thursday of the month to enjoy the holiday alone with some fried corn nuggets.

Ashley: I think the gravy stressed me out at first, but I ended up being pleasantly surprised.

I was not the biggest fan of the corn or the excessive amount of mashed potatoes.

Fat Mystery

TOPPINGS “One mystery meat item (chicken, steak, gyro, etc.), four mystery sides (fries, poppers, etc.) and we choose your surprise.”

We think ours was mozzarella sticks, chicken tenders, fries, shredded cheese, buffalo sauce and blue cheese(?)

RATINGS Nicholas: The phrase “we choose your surprise” is incredibly foreboding in this context, but the toppings did actually work together.

Unfortunately, I revile PJ’s buffalo sauce, and there was a ton. I genuinely think it’s watered down Frank’s RedHot sauce. There was a debate about whether the white sauce was ranch or bleu cheese, but either way it didn’t help.

Kaylee: The ingredients on this one probably made the most logical sense — not what I was expecting from the mystery sandwich and honestly a bit disappointing. This sandwich was fine, but lacked some of the excitement of other PJ’s sandwiches.

Anna: A lot could have gone wrong in ordering a mystery sandwich from an even more mysterious place, but I was pleasantly surprised with the staff’s selection for the ingredients. It was one of our calmer orders, and a good one to end the night on.

Ashley: I was tentative about the ranch on top of the sandwich but I made it too far to give up at this point, so I dove in. I really liked the buffalo sauce on this one.

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12 | The Lantern | Thursday, October 17, 2019

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ASHLEY KIMMEL Assistant Arts&Life Editor kimmel.103@osu.edu

E

very student has their favorite campus-area pizza place, but The Lantern is here to inform you of their actual worth with a rigorous scientific study of five popular pizza delivery joints. My colleagues and I set out to quantify and compare the size, weight, price and delivery time from Domino’s Pizza, Papa John’s, Buckeye Pizza, Adriatico’s New York Style Pizza and Hounddog’s 3 Degree Pizza to the Journalism Building Tuesday. Domino’s arrived the soonest, Hounddog’s weighed the most and Adriatico’s was cheapest on Tuesdays and Buckeye Pizza on every other day.

To ensure a fair study, we ordered a 12-inch cheese pizza from each business at roughly 5:35 p.m.

Note: a 12-inch pizza differs in size (small, medium, large, etc.) depending on the business. There are also two Domino’s Pizza locations on campus — one only delivers to North Campus buildings, and the other only delivers to South Campus buildings. Due to our delivery location of the Journalism Building, we could only order from the location that delivers to North Campus.

5

1 2 Adriatico’s New York Style Pizza Address: 1618 Neil Ave. Order: Medium (12-inch) cheese pizza Price: $9.25 (price lower than the original $11.29 due to special on Tuesday) Estimated delivery time: 45 minutes to an hour Actual delivery time: 45 minutes Weight: 1 pound, 3.8 ounces (562 grams) Diameter: 11 1/2 inches Crust thickness: 11 millimeters Body thickness: 10 millimeters

1

4

3

Papa John’s Address: 2108 N. High St.

Hounddog’s 3 Degree Pizza Address: 2657 N. High St. Order: Small (12-inch) cheese pizza Price: $14.49 Estimated delivery time: 45 minutes to an hour Actual delivery time: 32 minutes Weight: 1 pound, 10.8 ounces (759 grams) Diameter: 11 7/8 inches Crust thickness: 22 millimeters Body thickness: 13 millimeters

2

Buckeye Pizza Address: 1584 Summit St. Order: Medium (12-inch) cheese pizza Price: $11 Estimated delivery time: 35 minutes Actual delivery time: 23 minutes Weight: 1 pound, 5.9 ounces (622 grams) Diameter: 11 7/8 inches Crust thickness: 17 millimeters Body thickness: 9 millimeters

3

Domino’s Pizza

Order: Medium (12-inch) original cheese pizza

Address: 2183 N. High St.

Price: $13.83

Order: Medium (12-inch) Hand-tossed cheese pizza

Estimated delivery time: 35 minutes

Price: $14.48

Actual delivery time: 34 minutes

Estimated delivery time: 40-45 minutes Actual delivery time: 17 minutes

Weight: 1 pound, 5.2 ounces (602 grams) Diameter: 11 1/2 inches

Weight: 1 pound, 2.3 ounces (519 grams)

Crust thickness: 20 millimeters

Diameter: 11 3/4 inches

Body thickness: 13 millimeters

Crust thickness: 20 millimeters Body thickness: 9 millimeters

4

5