KCG 02 Feb21

The Kansas City

GARDENER February 2021 | kcgmag.com

Bromeliads

editor’s notes

The Kansas City

GARDENER Independently owned and operated since 1996 PUBLISHER Michael Cavanaugh EDITOR Elizabeth Cavanaugh CONTRIBUTORS Tracy Flowers Sandy Gibson Nik and Theresa Hiremath Dane Kietzman Dennis Patton Tamra Reall Denise Sullivan Scott Woodbury DISTRIBUTION Publishers Delivery Solutions, Inc. IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO DISTRIBUTE the magazine at your place of business, please contact Mike Cavanaugh at mike@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 NEED MORE MAGAZINES? mike@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 CONTACT US P.O. Box 8725 Prairie Village, KS 66208 913-648-4728 ADVERTISING Mike Cavanaugh at mike@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 EDITORIAL Elizabeth Cavanaugh elizabeth@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728

View from the upper rooms

W

hile making the bed recently, the cluster of birds hanging out in the crabapple tree caught my eye. There they were, a half dozen or more Robins feasting on the seasonal fruit right outside my bedroom window. We live in a split-level home, where all of the bedrooms and bathrooms are upstairs. With plenty of windows to peer out, we are privileged to have a ‘birds eye view.’

I had a similar experience while blowdrying my hair. We have a teeny tiny bathroom with minimal elbow room. We manage, and it is less to clean. For those who might be a bit claustrophobic (Mr. Gardener), the big window makes for adequate breathing space. As I stand in front of the mirror, and with one step towards that window, I can look at the garden below. Among the leafless shrubs like fothergilla and hydrangea, shadowed by the new little maple trees, and the hosta buried beneath in a deep sleep, there is one vibrant green fern. Even at the end of January, after plenty of snow and below-freezing temperatures, there stood lively fern fronds as if it were springtime. Aren’t plants amazing?

What was a finished attic became a bedroom when we moved in, nearing 30 years ago. Oh what a happy day that was when the oldest discovered that was to be her bedroom. Coming from a two-bedroom, one bath bungalow in Florida, with four kids, seemed like a mansion. Envy soon ensued among the lower ranks. Knowing they

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in summer. The other window allows a view of my treasured sycamore tree. The signature bark and knuckled branching come into full view from this elevation.

During these winter days, I can peer out the windows for a glimpse of my garden in slumber. See the quiet nature of the season, and ponder the possibilities.

I’ll see you in the garden!

In this issue

HOW TO SUBSCRIBE See details on page 19.

SUBSCRIPTION Elizabeth Cavanaugh elizabeth@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728

would move up when she moved out was enough to appease their discontent.

Isn’t that classic sibling rivalry?

Anyway, that room now is Mr. Gardener’s office. A transformation for work space includes a nice sectional, plenty of natural light for a variety of houseplants, and the ideal spot to watch birds feeding and bathing. We tease that the only thing missing from this space is a mini fridge. This too is where he can keep an eye on his greenhouse. He invited me, “Hey babe, let’s go look at the lettuce!” It is a warm tropical place where winter is forgotten when crossing the threshold.

Among the plants overwintering, there are trays of lettuce, spinach and micro greens, all for our benefit. Mr. Gardener is quite a son of the soil.

Another one of my favorites is the scene from the “knitting” room.

It is still a spare bedroom, filled with memories of earlier days when little kids played with Barbies and colored in coloring books. Lately I have begun to appreciate the solitude of that room, and the view of the landscape from two large windows. One includes the patio, with firepit, and containers filled with seasonal annuals bright with color

February 2021 | kcgmag.com

4 Ask the Experts 6 Local Resources for New-ish Gardeners 8 House Hunting for birds 9 Kids Ask Dr. Bug 10 Bromeliads

12 Plants on Your Plate – Broccoli 14 Get Landscape Ready for Spring 16 Grow Light Gardening 18 Garden Calendar 19 Subscribe

About the cover: Bromeliads are as diverse as their family. Creative utilization and easy care make them a must-have plant. Learn about several varieties beginning on page 10.

2

February 2021 | kcgmag.com

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The Kansas City Gardener | October 2020

3

Ask the Experts TREE BARK DAMAGE AND CARE Question: My dog treed a squirrel and in the process of pawing at the tree trunk to get to the varmint, he knocked the bark off the tree. The tree is a silver maple.

Will this harm the tree and, if so, what can I do?

Answer: This is not the first time I have received this question.

Bark on a tree is like our skin. Its purpose is to protect the layers underneath. The outer layer of bark is the dead, thick, woody tissue that protects the inner bark. The inner bark is the live tissue, called the cambium, where the xylem and phloem are located. Hopefully, your dog pawed off some of the protective outer bark layers. The concern would be if he dug deep into the tree, causing damage to the inner bark.

In most cases, dogs only knock off some of the outer layers, so really no harm is done. The goal will be to keep your dog from doing additional damage to the live tissue. If you have concerns, you might wrap the trunk loosely with something like chicken wire to prevent the claws from digging into the bark.

TREE CAVITY, DECAY HAS ALREADY BEGUN Question: I noticed my old locust tree has a hole in the trunk where several branches come together. It is about six inches deep.

I dug out a mass of dirt-looking material. What can I do to stop this hole from getting bigger and keep my tree healthy?

Answer: A hole in a tree, or a hole in a tooth, is called a cavity. Tree cavities happen when the protective bark layer is damaged and moisture seeps in. This allows wood-rotting fungi to grow and starts the decay process. Like cavities in our teeth, prevention is the best form of treatment. Keeping the bark layers intact reduces tree cavities.

Once the decay sets in, there are no products to stop the process.

Aging strawberry plants or no bed renovation can challenge fruit yield.

Starting a vegetable garden?

Consider a soil test first.

Nature will take over. As for what to do, your actions are limited. It is often impossible to keep the area dry to slow rotting as water tends to collect in these cavities. Years ago, they recommended filling the cavity with concrete thinking that it would stop the decay. Instead, the research found this trapped moisture and humidity, speeding up rot and decay. Concrete in trees complicated removal as saws and concrete don’t mix. Cavity fills like this are no longer recommended.

Watch the tree for increased rot.

When it affects the safety of the tree and your property, then it is time to remove it. There are some suggestions to clean the wound and fill the cavity with expandable foam.

While it may not stop the process, it could reduce moisture retention and slow the decay. The same issues as a concrete-fill still happen.

The only difference is a saw can cut through the foam.

Answer: Homegrown strawberries taste marvelous. Two issues could affect your strawberries. The first issue is the age of the planting.

Strawberry plantings tend to lose productivity after about 5 years.

Research has shown as the plant’s vigor decreases, disease pressure increases and the yield and quality of fruit decline. It is recommended to start a new patch in a new location.

The second issue is the lack of proper bed renovation. Because strawberries produce new plants from the runners, the area often becomes overgrown and crowded.

This reduces sun penetration as well as too many plants competing for water and nutrients. The result is fewer and smaller berries. After harvest in early June, it is time to renovate the bed. That means removing as many as half or twothirds of the plants. Create rows of plants about a foot wide at most.

Each row should be two or three feet apart. This opens a bare soil area where the new plants run, root and produce next year’s crop.

Renovation results in younger, productive plants and since they get more sunlight, you are rewarded with larger berries. K-State Extension has an excellent fact sheet on strawberry care. Just search strawberries K-State Extension MF598 in your search engine to find this resource.

GROWING STRAWBERRIES A CHALLENGE WITH AGING PLANTS, BED NEGLECT Question: I enjoy growing strawberries, but the last few years the harvest has not been that great.

The patch is in full sun, has pretty good soil, is watered and has a lot of foliage. But few berries develop and if they do, they are small. What can I do to improve the yield?

DENNIS PATTON Horticulture Agent 4

February 2021 | kcgmag.com

FUSSY FRUIT TREE Question: I grew up with an apricot tree. Since moving to the Kansas City area, I see hardly any apricot trees. Can I grow one here?

Answer: Apricots are finicky fruit trees for our area. The tree will grow, but the problem is the onset of the fruit. Apricots have a short winter dormancy period, which means they break bud and flower very early in the season. Once in flower, they have little protection from a late spring freeze and the developing fruit is wiped out.

I grew up in southern Kansas where we had apricot trees. We might get a crop every five years.

This far north, the odds might be even lower. The goal is to find a variety requiring more chilling hours, which blooms later. Look for these varieties: Moorpark, Golcot, Harglow, or Wilson Delicious.

GOOD CASE FOR SOIL TESTING Question: We moved into a 100-year-old home. I want to start a vegetable garden. I have heard lead can be an issue with older homes. Is there a way to check for lead levels before starting a vegetable garden?

Answer: Lead is a potential issue around older homes because of years of coating in lead-based paint. The paint chipped off the home over the years and accumulated in the soil. Lead-based paint was banned in 1978. Lead and other heavy metals can be an issue in soils at manufacturing sites or fossil fuels were stored on farmsteads.

Soils with high lead levels can cause health issues with dust inhalation or vegetable uptake.

Extension on both sides of the state line can test for heavy metals.

The results will provide levels and whether it is safe to garden in this soil or if remediation is required.

There is a small fee for this testing. If you are concerned about the safety of your soil, contact your local County Extension office.

Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

The Kansas City Gardener | February 2021

5

o this is the year that brought many people back to the land.

There are many of us with childhood memories of pulling weeds as the grown-ups picked the ripe tomatoes for canning.

They showed you which plants to weed out with your little hands and where to prune the suckers off the leggy plants. They seemed to know everything about gardening!

Recently, when the world forced us to spend more time at home, we were able to see with the eyes of our parents and grandparents in their own gardens. We slowed down and truly saw what the most important things are in life.

We chose seeds to grow plants to nourish our loved ones. Some of our efforts worked and some didn’t. In the end we all grew more in touch with nature, through horticultural victories, and the wisdom gained through dead plants.

Now it is the winter time. And you have joined the ranks of gardeners staring out the window and dreaming of the possibilities of the new year. Are we starting seeds early in the garage? How early do I want to plant outdoors? What triumphs are we going to repeat?

Which plants get the axe? What do I want to learn about next?

Luckily, there are groups in Kansas City with people who can help you find the answers to these burning questions. I could make a list that is a mile long. Just to get started, here are a few of my favorite garden resources in our area for the new-ish gardeners out there: Volunteer My favorite way to learn something new is to volunteer with an expert. A few years back, I had a really fun morning with Dre Taylor at his farm called Nile Valley Aquaponics (Nilevalleyaquaponics.com). In just one morning I saw gardeners of all ages planting seeds

Photo by KCMO Parks and Recreation.

S

Local Resources for New-ish Gardeners

for the aquaponics system, spreading mulch for outdoor teaching areas, and learning sustainable farming practices with chickens.

Another group that allows you to plunge your hands in the dirt and is a resource to gardeners of all skill levels is Cultivate KC (cultivatekc. org). Site manager, Farmer Dan, is a wealth of knowledge on organic gardening and farming practices.

He is also experimenting with brand new techniques to rid the garden of pests without using harmful pesticides. You can literally get the new scoop straight from the horse’s mouth.

Take a Class The KC Farm School at Gibbs

TRACY FLOWERS Plant Guru 6

February 2021 | kcgmag.com

Road (kcfarmschool.org) certainly has volunteer opportunities, but their classes are what make them unique. Last winter, they turned their winter dormant greenhouse into the perfect spot for hot yoga.

They always have a wide variety of farm-centric workshops to choose from and the teachers come from many different areas of expertise.

The two words that come to mind when I think of the Farm School at Gibbs Road are “community” and “inspire” and if you visit them, I’m sure you will understand what I mean.

If you haven’t had a chance to join the Kansas City Community Garden (kccg.org), do it right now!

With membership you get free

classes, free seed, free fertilizer and lots of other benefits throughout the year. Membership fees are based on income, so there isn’t anyone that would be turned away. This is one of my favorite gardening resources in town. Their classes range from simple garlic planting instruction for brand new gardeners to topics like orchard pruning. I feel like I learn something new every time I go there.

While we enjoy this winter gardening break to reflect, organize and plan, know that you’re not alone out there with mother nature.

Start a list of topics that you are eager to learn. You have lots of support to guide your 2021 season for a bountiful harvest.

Tracy Flowers is the owner of Tracy Flowers LLC, a horticultural consultancy that works with local organizations to promote organic urban farming, gardening, native landscapes and education. Her email addresss is kctracyflowers@gmail.com.

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Full Service Tree Care | Plant Health Care | Pruning | Tree Fertilization | Consultations The Davey Tree Expert Company | Kansas City 913-213-3800 | davey.com The Kansas City Gardener | February 2021

7

House Hunting

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bird houses, where and how to place, start now

know it’s the dead of winter, but now is the time to think about what nesting birds you might want nearby, and even install a bird house now. The logic might seem questionable since the birds won’t be nesting for weeks or months to come, but it does make sense. Many birds begin to scope out possible nesting sites in February and are sitting on eggs by mid-March. Our feathered friends don’t have the advantage of a real estate agent or an MLS (Multiple Listing Service) to aid them to find their homes IN spring, but we can help!

There are many backyard birds for which you can offer nesting options. These include Black Capped Chickadees, House Wrens, Bluebirds, Cardinals, Carolina Wrens, and Downy, Hairy, Red-bellied, Red-headed and Flicker woodpeckers. You can also do the same for Owls, but you’ll have to plan ahead for that next year because they’re

already sitting on eggs now with hatchlings just weeks away. Except for the Cardinal, all of these birds are considered cavity nesters and thus why nesting boxes or bird houses can be viable options. Cardinals are shelf nesters and need a slightly different nesting solution.

Before you begin your house hunting, there are several key considerations in choosing a viable nesting box or bird house. All bird houses should include good ventilation near the top of the box, drainage holes in the bottom of the box, and have an access to clean out nesting materials between broods.

Do not use bird houses which have a perch in front of the opening.

Perches make it easier for predatory birds, snakes and raccoons to eat eggs or hatchlings in the nest.

Other physical characteristics of the bird house are also important for determining the likelihood of attracting the bird you want. Key

NIK HIREMATH Birding Expert 8

February 2021 | kcgmag.com

things to consider are the size of the opening to the nest. For example, if you want to attract bluebirds, the opening should be 1 ½”. By contrast a House Wren and Black-capped Chickadee prefer a 1 1/8” opening.

Additionally, the size of the box in floor space and height are also important. Lastly, a key consideration is the height of the opening from the base of the box. This dimension is important, because it ensures that the fledglings are strong enough to fly by the time they are mature enough to be able to jump up to the opening to take flight.

Where and how you place your bird houses is also important in increasing your chances to attract nesting birds. Bird houses should be placed with the opening facing south or east. This makes it easier to maintain proper temperature for the eggs without a cold north wind blowing in during early spring.

With the exception of wren/chicka-

dee houses, other bird houses need to be affixed to keep them from blowing in the wind. They can be affixed to posts, fences, trees, etc.

Additionally, the height of the bird house from the ground is also important. Many species’ bird houses can be 5 or 6 feet off the ground, but woodpecker houses will need to be higher at about 8 feet or more. One other key consideration for affixed bird houses is using a baffle on a pole or post and/or snake guard on the opening to prevent predation by raccoons and snakes.

If you start now, you too could be a landlord for your backyard nesters. Having nests is another way to expand your joy of the hobby.

Nesting behaviors including nest building, feeding the young, and watching fledglings take their first flight. Perhaps the most exciting and satisfying behavior to look forward to are the first and subsequent fledgling visits to your feeders!

Local birding experts Nik and Theresa Hiremath own and operate Wild Birds Unlimited of Leawood at 11711 Roe Avenue, Leawood, Kansas. Contact them at 913-491-4887.

Kids Ask Dr. Bug about the curious things found in the garden

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ne of the best parts of being a scientist is collaborating with others. This month, my son, Christian, joins me in answering your questions.

Are there different kinds of fleas? Aya, 15 Although there are more than 2,500 known species of fleas, fleas are usually grouped together by a common name based on the animal that species preys on, including cats, dogs, rats, and humans. As it turns out though, fleas aren’t that picky! According to the CDC, in the United States, cat fleas are more common on dogs than dog fleas are! Many fleas can even bite and feed on humans. So, if you find any on your pets, it’s a good idea to reach out to a vet to help your pet. You can also contact your local extension office for research-based pest control information. ~Christian Are white spider sacs and brown spider sacs from different kinds of spiders? Janette, kid-at-heart They may be, but the brown sac could just be an older version of the white sac. The egg sacs of spiders are nearly as diverse as the types of spiders. Sacs come in many shapes (spherical, elliptical, flat), sizes (tiny to as big as the spider), colors (white, brown, yellow, yellow-green), and textures (spiky, smooth, rough, fuzzy).

Depending on the spider species, the egg sacs can contain hundreds to thousands of eggs. And, some spiders lay a single mass of eggs while other spiders may create multiple egg sacs in their lifetimes. Spiders leave their sacs in many locations, too, depending on the species. The sac can be found in a web, attached to a plant or furniture, or in the soil. And

sometimes, such as with wolf spiders, spider moms carry their egg sacs until the spiderlings hatch.

Remember that spiders are usually beneficial predators that help us. As long as they don’t pose a danger to you, let them, and their egg sacs, live. ~Dr. Bug Does a scorpion have an abdomen, like insects? If so, where is it? Daniel, 14 Scorpions have something very similar to an insect’s abdomen, called an Opisthosoma.

Located between the head (the largest segment) and the tail (the chain of longer, thinner segments), the Opisthosoma contains the Scorpion’s heart and lungs. ~Christian How are insects animals?

Amelia, 12 All life on earth is organized into categories so that we can understand how everything relates to one another. The categories, known as taxonomic ranks, start out at the most general and become more specific: Domain, Kingdom, Phylum, Class, Order, Family, Genus, Species. The animal kingdom contains all those species you probably think of when you think of animals – dogs, cats, squirrels, etc. This kingdom also includes insects, spiders, roly polys, and other arthropods. Other kingdoms include plants, fungi, protozoa, bacteria, chromista, and archaea. Here’s another interesting tidbit: fungi are more closely related to animals than plants! ~Dr. Bug Do you have a questions for Dr. Bug? Send them to ReallT@ Missouri.edu. Please include KADB in the subject, and your name and age.

TAMRA REALL Horticulture Specialist

Dr. Tamra Reall (@MUExtBugNGarden) is horticulture specialist for MU Extension, Jackson County. For free, research-based gardening tips call 816-833-TREE (8733).

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9

BROmeliads Yes I said BRO!

I

sn’t that what you say when something is super cool? Are you kidding me BRO, a plant that can live without soil? Yep, that’s exactly what I said! And BROmeliads are those unique plants.

The subject of bromeliads is as broad as the number of plants in the bromeliad family. That being the case, let’s narrow our focus. This article introduces a few of the varieties widely available in the tropicals section of your local nursery or garden center.

Located mostly in tropical or subtropical regions, Bromeliads are epiphytes (like orchids) meaning they cling to trees and rocks.

The most common bromeliads you see are the Guzmania varieties with the large star-shaped blooms, Neoregelias donning diversely colored foliage, and Tillandsias known as air plants.

Bromeliads do not need deep pots or thick potting soils. They thrive in low soil mediums such as orchid mix, a blend of bark, sphagnum moss and other organic amendments. The container only needs to be deep enough to anchor the root system.

Bromeliad plant care is low maintenance and no special tools or fertilizers are needed. As indoor specimens, plants need medium to bright natural light. During the growing season, fertilize once a month with a half strength fertilizer.

Water needs are simple too. Fill the cup at the base of the leaves. All of these have a very hardy nature.

Meaning if you forget to water it, that’s A-O-K! In fact most of them

don’t mind going dry if they are growing in a usual moss soil medium.

Those with leaves that are more green in color oriented from tropical areas, and those with a more silver tinge to the leaf are native to more desert areas.

Therefore with the air plants the one from the desert areas don’t mind a little neglect.

Air plants usually do not come potted in any sort of medium. They are glued or nested onto logs, moss or other non-soil organic items.

You may have seen Tillandsia plants wired or glued onto coconut shells with no soil. These plants collect all the food and moisture they need with their leaves but need a little help from you in the indoor setting.

Of course more of the colorful Guzmania varieties are some of the most attractive to the eye so they make a great pop of color indoors in any sort of lighting. The bloom doesn’t last forever but you can propagate the pups that grow off the sides of the mama plant.

The Neoregelia varieties are also terrific as a tabletop plant, but I think are best utilized outside in a combo pot with other annuals. These varieties love lots of sun and get more colorful in sunny spots. They add a unique touch planted at an angle

SANDY GIBSON Tropicals Expert 10

February 2021 | kcgmag.com

with other blooming summer heat tolerant flowers.

In recent years I have been amazed by the creative uses of Tillandsias. Measuring from a couple of inches to a foot across, they are so durable and ideal for attaching to distinctive pieces of driftwood. or in a cool seashell with moss or rocks to dress it up. They have so many possibilities! One of my favorites are all the rage. Find any type of skull as the planting base, add an air plant to it and hang that on a wall as a

pretty killer decoration. There are so many ways to show off these plants.

With so many different varieties you are bound to find one if not many different kinds that meet your eye.

Pictured on the opposite page is my favorite variety of the air plant, the xerographica. My beautiful specimen is very large and hangs out in my fiddle leaf fig tree in a sunny window. It is a stunner. It’s the largest variety of air plant and does not disappoint!

Guzmania

Sandy Gibson is the tropicals manager at Suburban Lawn & Garden’s Lenexa location. With 15 years of experience in the horticulture industry, she has an affinity for all plants tropical. If you would like more information, you may contact her at sandyg@suburbanlg.com.

Xerographica

Tillandsia

Guzmania

Neoregelia

Tillandsia

Guzmania

Neoregelia The Kansas City Gardener | February 2021

11

PLANTS ON YOUR PLATE Broccoli cooked. Proper cooking can be the difference maker for the palatability of many vegetables, so consider your preparation methods carefully.

For a quick and tasty preparation, try roasted broccoli. Simply toss florets with a tablespoon or two of olive oil and oven roast on a foil

lined baking sheet at 400 degrees for 15 minutes. Top with a sprinkle with parmesan or squeeze of fresh lemon juice after cooking. If you have a little more time and are feeling inspired, the salad below is a beautiful combination of colors, flavors and textures.

Broccoli and Red Pepper Salad MAKES 6 SERVINGS INGREDIENTS ½ cup pecan halves 1 large head broccoli (about 5 cups) 1 large red bell pepper ½ large sweet onion

O

ne of my favorite fresh vegetables to reach for in the midst of winter is broccoli.

Though not a locally grown product – right now at least – broccoli is grown year-round in California.

Broccoli is native to the Mediterranean region, where it has been cultivated since Roman times. The first commercial broccoli crop grown in the U.S. was started in California in the 1920s, but broccoli did not become a significant crop until after World War II. Today, California grows more than 90% of the broccoli in the United States and is the third largest producer in the world.

Broccoli is a member of the Brassicaceae plant family, also known as cruciferous. Other familiar plants in the family include Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and kohlrabi. The word broccoli comes from the Italian plural of broccolo, which means

“the flowering crest of a cabbage.”

Broccoli is an excellent source of a multitude of vitamins and minerals, including vitamins A, C and K, manganese, potassium, and phosphorus. These nutrients are essential for eye, skin and bone health, heart health and cancer prevention. It is also a good source of folic acid, a nutrient important for pregnant women and the developing fetus. Broccoli is also rich in an assortment of phytonutrients, particularly glucosinolates and sulforaphane, which are being researched for their role in cancer treatment and prevention. All that nutrition is wrapped in a low-calorie package, as one cup of raw broccoli contains about 50 calories, and also provides 2.5 grams of fiber and 2.5 grams of protein.

Unfortunately, a downside of cruciferous vegetables is that the sulphur-containing compounds can be bitter, especially when over-

DENISE SULLIVAN Nutrition Ninja 12

February 2021 | kcgmag.com

DRESSING 2 tablespoons vinegar (white wine or cider) 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon sesame oil 1 teaspoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon honey 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ teaspoon ground ginger 1. T oast pecans in heavy skillet over medium heat until lightly browned. Watch carefully, as they can burn quickly. Roughly chop the pecans if desired, set aside.

2. Prepare vegetables. Wash broccoli and separate into florets and trim stems into small matchstick-like strips. Blanch* broccoli by cooking in boiling water for one minute, drain and put into ice water for one minute, drain well. Wash bell pepper and cut into thin strips. Cut onion into thin strips.

3. Combine vegetables in large bowl and stir to combine.

4. Combine dressing ingredients in small jar and shake to combine.

Pour over vegetables and chill for 30 minutes. When ready to serve, top with pecans. *Blanching is a quick cook-quick cool process that tenderizes the broccoli and brightens the color. The process is also used as a preparation to freeze fresh vegetables.

NUTRITION INFORMATION Calories: 93, Total Fat: 5g, Saturated Fat: .6g, Sodium: 76mg, Carbohydrates: 11g, Fiber: 3g, Protein: 3g Recipe adapted from Seasonal and Simple, analyzed by verywellfit.com.

Denise Sullivan (@MUExtJacksonCo) is a Nutrition and Health Education Specialist for MU Extension in Jackson County. For research based nutrition and food safety information and programs, call 816-4825850 or visit https://extension2.missouri.edu/.

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Act Now, Tackle Pre-Emergent Lawn Treatment & Tree Fungal Disease Get your Landscape Ready for Spring

I

n my personal life, I am very fond of analogies and helpful anecdotes. Having worked as an arborist for almost ten years, I have developed and rotated more than my fair share for use in horticulture. One of these is that Mother Nature does not follow the same units of time that humans do.

While looking at the calendar in the terms of four seasons is helpful for us to organize our lives, do not think that the rest of the world

grams is an early season fertilizer and pre-emergent to help control grassy weeds such as crabgrass and foxtail. While fertilizer is critical to a healthy lawn in spring, its timing can be somewhat more flexible.

Conversely, prevention of grassy weeds must be done at the appropriate time or an entire season of having the best lawn on the block may be gone.

Nearly all selective chemical controls of pests – especially plants

pre-emergent treatments on newly emerged grassy weeds, but if the plant is allowed just a couple weeks to mature, the window is gone. By the time many homeowners notice these obnoxious plants the bestlooking lawn will have to wait until next year.

A pre-emergent works by preventing the weed seed from germinating. Although the concentration of chemicals in a pre-emergent is formulated to target the relatively

around us waits until March 21 to begin its springtime activities. We all know that the ideal weather of spring gives way to the summer heat before we are ready, but this time of the year often runs away from us in terms of managing several common issues in our landscapes.

Two of the most common issues I see are grassy weeds and foliar disease. They arise because homeowners were not proactive enough in getting ahead of the problem. By tackling these two issues, you can have a beautiful lawn and landscape this spring.

– rely on manipulating key features of that target pest which distinguishes them from others. This helps the product to work on what it is intended to effect and leave the non-target plant alone. Unfortunately, plants like crabgrass and foxtail are so biologically similar to the types of grass that we use in our lawns that controlling mature plants mid-season is difficult at best. Therefore, a pre-emergent product must be used to prevent these weeds from growing at all.

Foxtail and crabgrass are annual weeds, which means they must grow from seed each spring. By applying a pre-emergent early in the season these plants are brought under control before they can germinate. There is some effect of

small weed seed, it can certainly impact the germination of larger turf grass seed in the same area.

Proper Pre-emergent Lawn Treatment Timing & Formulas A staple of many lawn pro-

DANE KIETZMAN Arborist 14

February 2021 | kcgmag.com

Find & Treat Tree Fungal Disease Early While homeowners typically notice the grassy weeds gone awry mid-way through spring, there is often a flurry of phone calls from concerned tree owners at the tail end of May all the way into July for issues with tree foliage. The cool temperatures and higher precipitation of spring are textbook growing conditions for the development of fungi.

Fungal issues can potentially develop on almost any plant. Many of these diseases are limited in scope and have little long-term impact on the health of the plant, some

are more serious. However, there are several common foliar diseases on many of the more popular landscape plantings in our area. A professional diagnosis is often needed to sort out a plan of action.

Being proactive with these diseases is key.

Fungus Life Cycle When the outward symptoms of fungal damage is apparent late spring into summer, the life cycle of the fungus has already run its course. The fungi that caused the visible damage will have been active on the host plant at a microscopic level for most of spring.

During that time, the fungi keep the host tissue alive as long as it’s needed.

When the fungi finish for the year they die off and with them goes the host tissue.

The control methods for these diseases cannot cure the dead or damaged tissue, rather the disease must be prevented from taking hold the next year.

These treatment regimens typically require treatment of each year’s new foliage at regular intervals from the time the tissue first emerges until the foliage matures and the weather is no longer conducive to fungi.

Knocking off the rust from winter can be a process. While we are still acclimating to the return of nice weather the problems that we face in our lawns and landscapes hit the ground running. Having a plan in place for your outdoor spaces and vegetation now is the key to getting a good start to a successful year of outdoor maintenance and gardening.

March 21 is just around the corner.

Waiting until the official arrival of spring to start planning will put you behind for the new growing season.

Dane Kietzman is an 8-year professional ISA Certified Arborist with Ryan Lawn and Tree, currently serving as Co-Manager for the Plant Healthcare Department out of Overland Park. Kietzman has a bachelor’s degree in Park Management and Conservation from Kansas State University. To contact Dane call 913-381-1505 or e-mail danekeitzman@ryanlawn.com.

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The Kansas City Gardener | February 2021

15

Photos by Hwei-Yiing Johnson.

Alumroot

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Grow Light Gardening

W

hen I was in sixth grade, I started messing around with plants. The professional name for this is horticulture, although my late colleague and friend Cindy Gilberg liked to call it “hortitorture.”

That’s more like what I was doing in sixth grade. I chopped plants to pieces to see what would happen.

It started the winter of 1978, when I came across a gardening book sitting around the house. In it were helpful pictures and descriptions of all sorts of ways to propagate plants.

One method showed how to slash a plant stem with a sharp knife, then pin and bury it in soil to stimulate root growth (simple layering) and hopefully a new plant. What sixth grade boy wouldn’t want to get his hands on a sharp knife?

Another method involved scraping a stem and wrapping the wound with wet peat moss and a plastic bag (air-layering). I also learned how

to take stem cuttings by soaking them in willow water, then sticking them in potting soil to stimulate new roots (softwood cuttings). In one weekend, I tormented every plant in the house.

I can’t remember if I asked for permission or forgiveness.

Either way, my mom didn’t outwardly mind too much, and even helped me create my first indoor grow light garden, where I experimented with these tortured propagules, plus snapdragons that I sprouted from a packet of seed in the basement. It was an eye-opening experience. Over forty years later, my eyes are still wide open.

Bill Schuler, a former horticulture volunteer at Shaw Nature Re-

SCOTT WOODBURY Horticulturist 16

February 2021 | kcgmag.com

serve, also had a grow light garden in his basement in Union, Missouri.

His inflorescent lamp setup was simple like mine (although there are many different systems available now). Bill used standard, four-foot inflorescent lamps with coolwhite bulbs suspended on chains above the plants. Lamps on chains allow you to adjust height as plants grow taller. This is important because plants that grow in adequate light are more compact and fit into small spaces. When light is too distant (two to three feet), plant stems elongate, grow thin, and flop over. So keep lights as close to the plants as possible—about five to eight inches works best. This will

not burn the leaves or dry out the soil, although keep in mind that gardening indoors can be tricky.

Airflow is critical to prevent fungal disease and promote stronger stems. Keep an oscillating fan going non-stop, pointed at the plants. You should also mist leaves often with water from a spray bottle in addition to watering the soil with a watering can. Cheap spray bottles work, but higher quality ones available in garden centers last much longer and have better pump mechanisms. Indoor air in winter is tough on plants, just as it is on skin. That’s why I use bath scrub all winter in the shower and why you should invest in a good spray bottle for your grow light garden.

Bill mostly grew native plants from seed, although he also kept his favorite geraniums and coleus going for years by taking softwood cuttings. He experimented with anything he could get his hands

Horticulturist Scott Woodbury is the Curator of the Whitmore Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve in Gray Summit, MO, where he has worked with native plant propagation, design, and education for 30 years, and which is supported by the Missouri Dept. of Conservation. He also is an advisor to the Missouri Prairie Foundation’s Grow Native! program.

on, including seed collected from his own property, roadsides, Shaw Nature Reserve’s Whitmire Wildflower Garden, and purchased from Missouri wildflower seed nurseries.

He always collected small amounts of seed, with permission. During weekdays, horticulture staff may be found working in the Whitmire Wildflower Garden, who can assist if you would like to ask permission to gather small amounts of seed.

There is a helpful seed propagation guide located at the Shaw Nature Reserve website listed under gardens and gardening. In a nutshell, collected seed must be cleaned and stored dry. I keep small quantities in zipper plastic storage bags, in the fridge or freezer where they will keep for many years.

Pull seed out of the fridge when you are ready to begin. If you sow fresh, dry seeds directly into potting soil, only a few species and a small percentage of seedlings (per species) will germinate. Most will not germinate without pretreatment, but the species that will sprout without treatment include asters and goldenrod (5-15% germination), columbine (15%), goats beard (20%), alum root (20%), yarrow (35%), shining bluestar (15%), American bellflower (15-20%), grasses (20-40%), rose mallow (510%), buttonbush (20-30%), wild hydrangea (15-20%), partridge pea (10%), lance-leaf and star coreopsis (20-25%), plains coreopsis (50%), blazingstars (5-10%), Bradbury beebalm (15%), black-eyed Susan (50%), cardinal flower (5-10%), blue lobelia (20-30%), gumweed (15-30%), American aloe, (1020%), autumn sneezeweed (10%), and sunflowers (5-10%).

To increase these germination rates, pre-treat the seed. For the species that won’t germinate, you must pre-treat the seed. Here’s how it’s done. First add a pinch of seed to a small zipper plastic storage bag with a small handful of moist (not dripping wet) potting soil (we use 50% sand mixed with 50% pure peat moss) and mix well. Peat moss is acidic, and suppresses most (but not all) fungal growth. Place the moistened mix in the refrigerator for at least two months, although three months is better.

This part of the process is called cold-moist stratification. This is where seed is fooled into thinking it spent the winter outdoors. Coldmoist typically happens indoors November through January, but can

happen in spring or summer also.

Once a month, check to make sure the seeds don’t dry out. If drying occurs, add a very light sprinkle of water if necessary (not too much).

Also, mix the contents using your fingers, without opening the plastic bags. This stirs air back into the peat moss mixture, which also helps prevent fungal growth.

While seed is in stratification, set up your grow lamps. A good place to do this is in front of a south window, to take advantage of natural light. If this isn’t possible, set it up in a basement or another available room. You will need a standard electric outlet(s), extension cord(s), grow light kit or cheap inflorescent lamp(s), an oscillating fan and a table to support the plants off the floor. Unfinished basements work well because it’s easy to hang lamps from the exposed rafters and clean up spilled water on concrete floors.

Use a table you don’t mind getting dirty and wet. Find a small watering can with a gentle nozzle, because young seedlings are damaged by vigorous splashing. Use potting or greenhouse soil mixes—rather than topsoil or compost—because they drain well and are porous (soil needs to hold air for healthy root growth). Any containers will work as long as they are at least 2.5-3 inches deep.

Once seedlings are 3-4 weeks old, begin to use liquid fertilizers (Peters brand or similar) weekly (mix one tablespoon per gallon of water). When plants are 2-3 months old, add slow-release fertilizer (Osmocote brand or similar) scratched shallowly into the surface of the potting soil (follow instructions on bag). In April, bring plants outside, protecting them from direct wind for the first week. They will need more frequent watering outdoors, especially when temperatures are warm. Then plant outside in the garden or share with others.

This is the process that worked for me when I was a lad, it worked for Bill Schuler, and will work for you in the absence of a greenhouse.

Now there’s something to think about: a free-standing greenhouse or an add-on to your house. The world of horticulture is full of so many things, I’m sure we should all be as happy as Kings…and Queens.

Happy indoor gardening!

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The Kansas City Gardener | February 2021

17

GARDEN CALENDAR February list of what to do in the garden.

LAWN

• Rake fallen leaves the wind has carried into the yard to prevent suffocation.

• Review lawn service contracts and make changes.

• Tune up and repair lawn mowers before the spring rush.

• Avoid injury to the grass. Keep foot traffic to a minimum when soil is frozen.

TREES AND SHRUBS

• Check for rabbit and vole damage on young trees and shrubs.

• Water fall-planted trees and shrubs.

• Water evergreens if soil is dry and not frozen.

• Apply dormant oil for control of scale and mites.

• Begin spring pruning on warm days.

• Delay pruning spring flowering trees and shrubs until after bloom.

• Force twigs of spring shrubs into blooming indoors, adding a splash of color.

• Remove snow carefully from limbs with broom.

FLOWERS

• Start seeds for transplanting.

• Check fall planted perennials and water if needed.

• Watch for frost heaving of tender perennials and cover.

• Replenish winter mulch around roses and other plants.

• Check bulbs in storage for decay and discard.

• Prepare orders for mail.

• Obtain a soil test and make needed improvements.

VEGETABLES AND FRUITS

• Create garden layouts to assist with planning process.

• Order seeds.

• Obtain a soil test and make needed improvements.

• Start broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage transplants.

• Prune apple, pear and cherry trees.

• Prune peach and nectarines just prior to bloom time.

• Select varieties and order new fruit trees.

• Check for rabbit and rodent damage on fruit trees.

• Apply manure or compost to garden areas and incorporate for soil improvement.

• Prepare garden soil for early planting.

• Avoid working the soil when wet.

• Check stored seeds and discard old supply.

• Prune grapes, raspberries and blackberries.

HOUSEPLANTS

• Rotate plants to produce a balanced plant.

• Withhold fertilization until spring light arrives.

• Check plants for insects, mites and other problems.

• Remove dust from plants by placing in the shower under room temperature water.

• Give a plant to a friend for a winter pick me up.

• Repot root bound plants in a 1-inch larger pot.

• Take cuttings of plants to make new ones for friends.

• Shape plants for spring growth to produce a more balanced and attractive plant.

MY GARDEN (Use this space to list additional tasks to accomplish in your garden.)

• • • •

Johnson County K-State Research and Extension recommends environmentally-friendly gardening practices. This starts by identifying and monitoring problems. Cultural practices and controls are the best approach for a healthy garden. If needed, use physical, biological or chemical controls. Always consider the least toxic approach first. Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

18

February 2021 | kcgmag.com

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“TAKE TIME TO SMELL THE ROSES” WE HAVE AN OPPORTUNITY FOR YOU TO DO THAT WHILE ON THE JOB! Gearing up for 2021 Spring – we have several job openings

Full Features Landscape & Garden Center is a local, family-owned business. If you like to work in a small business culture, work outside as well as in, enjoy having each day be different, and understand Seasonal business, then one of these positions may be for you.

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The Assistant Manager will be working side by side with Retail Manager of our Nursery/Garden Center. Must be able to supervise 5-10 people daily. Must be responsible for setting and achieving monthly goals. Our facility is open full time, 7 days a week, March thru Nov and thus this person will be responsible for opening/closing on some days. 40+ hrs a week. Salary will depend on experience. Need someone by March 15. Starting at $15+/hr.

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ly G ui de to Su A Mon thly cc es Guid e to Suc October 2014 sf ul cess ful Gard Garde ning G ar de enin g to Succe ssful August 2015 ni ng A Mont hly Guide

the Wa te Butterflies and Bee s Love These rlilies Spooky Plants

July

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LANDSCAPE CREWMAN: (2-4) Full Time - Mon-Fri w/occasional Sat/$12/hr • 18+ yrs old; Flexible Hours Required.

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• Must have good driving record and Must be able to get MO DOT physical and Class E License.

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SEND RESUME TO: SHIRLEYF@FULLFEATURES.COM (please specify which position applying for)

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Please enclose your check payable to The Kansas City Gardener and mail with this form to: P.O. Box 8725, Prairie Village, KS 66208 The Kansas City Gardener is published monthly Jan. through Dec.

13518 N HWY 169 | Smithville, MO 64089 | 816-532-4101 | fullfeatures.com The Kansas City Gardener | February 2021

19

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