KCG Aug21

The Kansas City

GARDENER August 2021 | kcgmag.com

Abelia

shrub for any garden style

editor’s notes

The Kansas City

GARDENER

Goldilocks

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T

here’s a perennial in my garden that goes mostly unnoticed. She’s not tall and showy commanding center stage with fantastic blooms. Nor is she the demanding, high maintenance type. Rather, her habits are uncomplicated and her wants are simple.

Creeping Jenny, as she’s commonly known, lies quietly in the landscape adding color and texture without a fuss.

‘Goldilocks’ (Lysimachia nummularia) is planted beneath the canopy of a crabapple tree, and wanders around and in between hosta also planted there. Positioned on a bit of a slope and landing on a dry stack wall, you might think these plants must fight for space and attention. Not so. These companions have worked out any turf troubles, and this petite groundcover has no trouble holding its own in this bed.

I first discovered Creeping Jenny while searching for a fill-in plant several years ago. On the deck, we had a 7-foot banana plant in a large container that needed a little something to cover the soil and trail over the edge. ‘Goldilocks’ was a perfect choice. The chartreuse-yellow foliage was bright and uplifting, while softening the container edges.

After filling the container, there were a couple of plants leftover,

which we promptly planted under the crabapple tree. No extra attention or care was given. Dig a hole, kick in the plant, and forget about it. Remember, it’s the survival of the fittest in this garden. The season passed and winter approached.

Freezing rain, frost, ice and snow piled high, and this perennial was forgotten. The following spring Creeping Jenny reappeared. Happily, she has continued to not only survive but also thrive in her location. I have been so impressed that I bought more to fill the bed. The lush ‘Goldilocks’ mat has filled the bed and now spills over the wall.

This season Mr. Gardener cut out two sizeable sections from the bedding plant, and replanted both at the edge of the garden near the road. In full sun and tolerates drought. What a wonderful addition to my garden!

This unpretentious perennial survived in the container and the landscape. With no extra care, this versatile plant is good-natured about her conditions. Whether full sun or part shade, wet or dry soil, Creeping Jenny performed well.

Humble and unassuming, she’s self-cleaning, is pet friendly and from what I’ve read, can handle foot traffic. This plant is a musthave.

What works well in your garden? Is there a perennial that is your long-time favorite? Have you been impressed with a new plant lately?

We all like to share our experiences with fellow gardeners across the garden gate. Tell us about your garden. Send us a message and we’ll share it with our readers so that they too might be inspired by your success.

I’ll see you in the garden!

In this issue

August 2021 | kcgmag.com 4 Ask the Experts 6 Kids Ask Dr. Bug 8 September to Remember Tour 9 Events 10 Plants on Your Plate – Zucchini 12 Abelia 14 Rose Report

16 Shades of Sunlight for natives 18 Indoor Gardening 20 Flower Power in your garden 21 Puddle Jumping Tour 22 Garden Calendar 23 Subscribe 23 Hotlines

About the cover: This variety of Abelia ‘Little Richard’ blooms freely throughout the summer, has a dense growth habit at 3’ x 3’ and is heat tolerant. See other varieties of this shrub beginning on page 12.

Photo credit to Krzysztof Ziarnek/WikiCommons.

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August 2021 | kcgmag.com

© 2021, The Scotts Company, LLC. All rights reserved

There’s still time.

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The Kansas City Gardener | August 2021

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Ask the Experts COMPARE TOPSOIL AND GARDEN SOIL? Question: What’s the difference between topsoil and garden soil?

Answer: Great question and you would think it would be a simple answer. These terms can mean different things depending on who is using them and how. Sometimes they are used interchangeably.

Topsoil is the upper layer of soil. It is above the subsoil. The logic is the top layer of soil should be the best soil for growing. Unfortunately, it does not always relate to quality. It depends on where or how it was formed. Topsoil in the KC area is very heavy in clay, whereas topsoil in Florida is primarily sandy. Honestly, all it means is it is the top layer of the soil. People jump to the conclusion it is better than something else. Often topsoil in the KC area is not the best for growing plants, but it is better than the subsoil, which can have a higher clay content and fewer nutrients.

Garden soil honestly means nothing. We would think by the name it can be used in the garden and would be better quality than the topsoil. But we don’t know its composition. The thought is garden soil would have more organic matter breaking down the negative effects of clay while holding more water and having better aeration for growth. In most cases, depending on the quality, it is nothing more than topsoil from somewhere that has organic matter mixed in. But that is not always the case.

Clear as mud? The real question is what is in the soil. Topsoil does not always mean better than what you have. My hunch is garden soil is probably topsoil with organic matter mixed in. When it comes to soil, don’t just look at the name on the bag but what is really inside the bag.

MISCANTHUS MISSING THE CENTER, TIME TO DIVIDE Question: My Morning Light Miscanthus has been in the ground for a few years. This year the new

This liriope is spreading.

Japanese beetles still a problem.

Cherries are hard to grow in KC.

growth came from around the edges, and the center was dead. What caused this, and what should I do?

Answer: Many of the ornamental grasses develop what is called an open center as they age. The older parts die out, leaving the healthy growth at the edge. This is common and a sign it is past time to divide.

Some varieties are more prone to the open center than others. However, all ornamental grasses will do it over time.

Dividing grasses can be hard work. It is often best to divide more often before the clumps become too big, and harder to get it out of the ground. Dividing is done in late winter or early spring. Cut it back as low as possible, pry it out of the ground, and then replant the healthy outer edge, maybe a 6-inch or so clump. Discharge the dead portions.

Avoid too large of a division as you will be dividing sooner than later.

on the purpose.

Spicata is best used as a ground cover. Muscari, especially the variegated form, is often used as a border plant along walks or to edge a garden bed. The trick is to plant the right species for the location.

In your case, it seems the wrong one was planted. Since there is no way to stop it from spreading, removing it may be the best recommendation. Either hand dig and remove or treat with a herbicide.

Control with a herbicide can be difficult due to its waxy leaf. Broadleaf herbicides are not effective as it is more grass-like. Glyphosate might be your best bet, but it could take a couple of applications.

mated and are now just hanging out feeding, or in the case of the females, laying their eggs. So go ahead and crush away! If it makes you feel good, then stomping them out will have no effect on attracting more.

Remember, if you use the Japanese beetle traps, place them as far away a possible from your garden as they draw in more adults to feed – a rookie mistake.

LIRIOPE, TWO VARIETIES WITH DIFFERENT BEHAVIORS Question: A landscaper planted liriope in my bed a few years ago. Now it is spreading everywhere and looks unkempt. Is there a way to keep it from spreading, or should I just get rid of it?

Answer: There are two common species of liriope planted in our area. Liriope spicata tends to spread by rhizomes and can quickly take a garden bed. The other species is Liriope muscari, which tends to be more clump-forming.

Both have their places depending

DENNIS PATTON Horticulture Agent 4

August 2021 | kcgmag.com

JAPANESE BEETLES Question: The Japanese beetles have returned and munched their way through my garden. I have heard if I crush them, I will attract more to my garden. Is it true they should not be crushed? I get great satisfaction to hear them pop when I step on them.

Answer: Japanese beetles are attracted by a pheromone drawing them to mate. The story goes that if you step on them, it releases the pheromone, and the sex-crazed adults will come hoping to do the insect nasty.

Part of the story is true. Japanese beetles are attracted by the pheromone. But once mated, they are no longer are attracted by the scent. The bad news is by the time you get to them, they have already

DESIRED SWEET CHERRIES DIFFICULT TO GROW Question: I enjoy eating sweet cherries when they are available in the stores for a short time. Can I grow sweet cherries in KC? Answer: Sweet cherries are delicious but challenging to grow in KC. They are not as adapted to our ever-changing weather patterns. On the other hand, tart cherries used for pies, cobblers, and jams are some of the easiest fruits to grow.

Sweet cherries would prefer to grow in loamier, slightly acidic soil. Their root systems need excellent drainage and even moisture.

Cold tolerance could be an issue as they do not tolerate the swings in temperature in the fall and spring.

They will grow here but often do not thrive and are short-lived. If you try, keep in mind many varieties are not self-fruitful, which means you will need two varieties.

Recommended self-fruitful varieties by K-State and MU are Stella, Black Gold, and Starkrimson.

Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

The Kansas City Gardener | August 2021

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Kids Ask Dr. Bug

about the curious things found in the garden I found a beetle. Can you tell me what it is so I can feed it? (See images “A”) Zella, 8 This looks like a white-margined burrower bug (a true bug, although it looks similar to a beetle).

This tiny (~1/4 inch) beetle feeds on seeds, such as those of wildflowers and especially nettle and mint. Usually, folks don’t see many of these bugs in a garden, but occasionally there can be hundreds or thousands. This year, I’ve received a few reports of these beetles and found many in my own garden as well. This insect is interesting as most insects are solitary and do not provide care to their offspring once the eggs are laid. This bug is different – once the eggs are laid in the ground, the momma bug stays for a while to protect the eggs and brings food for the new hatchlings for the first few days.

How do ladybugs fly with their hard wings? Russell, 9 The bright red, spotted wings you see when ladybugs are crawling on a plant are hard, outer wings, also known as elytra, that protect the soft transparent wings tucked underneath. It is a fascinating process to see how ladybugs, as well as many other beetles, fold and unfold these much larger wings under their elytra. Sometimes, they even use their abdomen to help tuck their flying wings under the elytra. This link (https://bit.ly/wingfolding, or scan the QR code) shows the intricate folding and unfolding process in slow motion.

These leaves are so pretty! How do they get this way? (See image “B”) Maggie, 9 These leaves are victims of Japanese beetles. These beautiful,

A

A shiny bronze and emerald-green beetles have a voracious appetite for the fleshy parts, but not the veins, of leaves. What is left after beetles feed is a skeletonized leaf which is pretty, but not so good for the plant as plants need the whole leaf to produce food to survive.

Japanese beetles are a new-ish pest in the U.S. They are called invasive insects as they came from far away, cause problems, and don’t have many natural predators. They are well adapted to our area where they thrive and eat all the leaves of many trees and other plants. Fortunately, the adult beetles are only active about six to eight weeks of the year and, if plants are healthy, they can usually grow new leaves.

A good way to control these beetles is to collect them in a container with soapy water. It’s best to do this each morning because the beetles release a pheromone to attract more beetles throughout the day.

Also, a natural predator of Japa-

TAMRA REALL Horticulture Specialist 6

August 2021 | kcgmag.com

B nese beetle, the tiny Tiphia wasp, has made its way to Missouri and will help keep this pest in check.

Don’t worry, this wasp won’t hurt you and is so small, you probably won’t even see it.

How do insects stay cool when it is so hot outside? Chris, 17 Insects are cold-blooded so their body temperature can change based on the temperature outside.

When it is very hot, water becomes very important, and many insects will seek out moisture. Water helps insects regulate their temperature and environment. Insects may seek moisture from plants, soil, and your house. Some insects create environments that regulate the temperature within their colony or nest.

For example, on hot days honey bees will collect water and “spit” it in their hive, while other bees fan their wings to create an air current.

This causes the water to evaporate and reduce the temperature in the

hive. Termites also control the temperature in their nests by keeping it moist and underground, and some species even create vents to allow airflow. Some insects move in with us to live in our air-conditioned homes, although for most insects it is too dry indoors. Some grounddwelling insects just go deeper where the temperature stays cooler and the soil is wet. Some insects are less active during the hottest hours and are more active in the morning and evening when it is cooler. And finally, many insects are not bothered by these hot temperatures as this is their “normal.”

Do you have questions for Dr. Bug? Send them to ReallT@ Missouri.edu or bit.ly/KidsAskDrBug. Please include your name and age. To help me learn what you learn from this column, please consider filling out this survey: bit.ly/KidsAskDrBugSurvey. Thank you!

Dr. Tamra Reall (@MUExtBugN Garden) is the horticulture specialist for MU Extension in Jackson County.

For free, research-based gardening tips, call 816-833-TREE (8733), email mggkc.hotline@gmail.com, or visit www.extension2.missouri.edu.

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MADE IN THE HEARTLAND!

The Water Garden Society of Greater Kansas City Presents

Puddle Jumping Water Garden Tour 2021 28th Annual Tour, Don’t Miss the 3 remaining Saturdays Plan your personal driving Water Garden Tour on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., highlighting locations around the entire metro including Lawrence, KS. A new feature for 2021 is the addition of unique builder-sponsored garden parties from 6 to 10 p.m. with lite refreshments and night lighting for a magical view of Water Gardens.

Tours are on the following Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Rain or Shine Tour # 4 August 7, Southern Johnson County, KS Tour # 5 August 21, Lawrence, KS Tour # 6 September 11, Northern KCMO, Wyandotte County, KS and Leavenworth, KS Tickets are $20 for a season pass for all 6 Water Garden Tours and $5 for individual tours. Children under 14 attend free. Proceeds benefit the building and maintenance of restorative and educational water gardens for schools, nature centers and other non-profits. Treat yourself to a summer of beauty and fun!

Purchase tickets NOW through Eventbrite by visiting kcwatergardens.com/tour.

The Kansas City Gardener | August 2021

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Sponsored by the Marais des Cygnes Extension District Master Gardeners

A SEPTEMBER TO REMEMBER GARDEN TOUR September 10 & 11 “To plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow.” –Audrey Hepburn

A

dventure to Miami County and experience six distinct, eclectic gardens. Harvest loads of ideas and inspiration.

Three gardens are featured here and three were featured in the July Kansas City Gardener edition.

Swan’s Water Gardens Diane and Kevin Swan, Owners Who doesn’t love the sights and sounds of water, nature’s symphony. So mesmerizing and relaxing. If you haven’t yet discovered Swan’s Water Gardens, this is a great opportunity to experience an array of water features both big and small all in one place.

Appreciate the variety of ponds with a multitude of flora—grasses, reeds, water lilies, hyacinths, lotuses, koi, fountains and “pondless” waterfalls and streams.

A water garden is an interactive system created around a body of water, attracting birds and other wildlife. These distinct water gardens are surrounded by garden rooms, both shade and sunny native plant gardens, a strolling pathway, a succulent wall and a lavender field.

You can bring your own lunch here to enjoy on their patio area.

Make sure to check out the quaint village and turtle pond.

name it—to be transformed into treasures. This innovative artist is a self-taught welder, carpenter, sculptor, painter and potter.

The flower beds are planted with multicolored metal flowers and many other creatures with collages on every wall amid “real” live shrubs, perennials, veggies and annuals. Find the six “rabbits.”

Follow the signs and park next door at Captain Cook’s Treasure Chest.

Blue Door: The Artful Garden Donna Cook, Owner Wander through these shaded grounds of trees planted 50 years ago, including pin oaks, catalpa, sycamore, bald cypress, and conifers. Trees are Donna’s favorites.

These whimsical gardens are really more about the quirky art than the flora. Fun! Blue doors (hence its name) dot the property among recycled, upcycled and creative one-of-a-kind artworks. Friends drop off old rusty “junk”—car parts, tires, tools, you

Campbell’s Highlands Stacie and Dave Campbell, Owners Promised land. Behold captivating gardens which continue to evolve, adapting to the hillside terrain through lots of learning, love and hard work. Gardening is both a science and an art along with mother nature’s contributions and surprises. Landscaping can ease mowing and maintenance, manage water drainage issues and enhance diversity and beauty.

Relish the hilltop view and

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August 2021 | kcgmag.com

Swan’s Water Gardens

Campbell’s Highlands spectacular waterfall feature cascading down its natural slope. Enjoy the Music Box roses’ aroma, the pollinator, white, and vegetable gardens, and the Secret Garden with fig trees.

The most recent addition is a train garden in progress, encompassing a patio surrounding a water pond and Dave’s prized trains.

Sign up at this garden for a drawing to receive a free dinner,

Blue Door night and breakfast for two at Casa de Somerset.

Tickets are $15 and will be for sale at each garden (cash or check only) and are good for both days.

Start your tour at any garden.

A map will be available in the September issue of this publication, which comes out in late August.

See www.facebook.com/mdcemg or www. maraisdescygnes.ksu.edu for updates.

Garden Events Growing Together Tues, Aug 3, 4p; at Lansing Community Library, 730 1st Terr, Ste 1, Lansing, KS 66043. Leavenworth County Master Gardeners will present “Growing Together: a Beginning Look at Companion Planting.” The meeting is free and open to the public. For more information contact the Leavenworth County Extension office at 913-364-5700.

Darling Dahlias and Naked Ladies Wed, Aug 4, 7p; at Basehor Community Library, 1400, 158th St, Basehor, KS 66007. Nancy Gibbons, a Leavenworth County Master Gardener, will give a presentation on Dahlias, Naked Ladies and some history of gardens of the South during the Great Depression. The meeting is free and open to the public. For more information contact the Leavenworth County Extension Office at 913-364-5700.

Leavenworth Co Master Gardeners Wed, Aug 11, 11a; at Riverfront Community Center, 123 Esplanade St, Leavenworth, KS 66048. Leavenworth County Master Gardener, Gretchen Manus, and her 4-H students will give a presentation on Growing and using Gourds. This club meeting is free. Visitors are welcome. For more information contact the Leavenworth county extension office at 913-364-5700.

Greater Kansas City Iris Society Plant Sale Sat Aug 21, 10a-3p; at Trailside Center, 99th & Holmes, Kansas City, MO. Bearded iris in a variety of classes will be available for sale: TB, BB, IB, SDB, MTB. Come early for best selection. www.kciris. org KC Cactus and Succulent Society’s ANNUAL SALE is back NEW LOCATION, FOR ONE DAY ONLY. Sat, Aug 7, 10a-3:30p; at Trailside Center,

9901 Holmes Rd, Kansas City, MO. See our website: www.kccactus.com or visit us on Facebook.

Growing Together Tues, Aug 24, 7pm; at Leavenworth Public Library, 417 Spruce St, Leavenworth, KS 66048. Leavenworth County Master Gardeners, Melony Lutz and Linda Forsberg, will present: “Growing Together: A Beginning Look at Companion Planting.” The meeting is free and open to the public. For more information contact the Leavenworth County Extension Office at 913-364-5700. Face masks and social distancing are required. For latest protocol guidelines visit the library’s homepage at https://leavenworthpubliclibrary.org/ updated-hours-may-2021/ WGS Puddle Jumping Water Garden Tour 2021 Three tours remain: Aug 7, Aug 21, and Sep 11. Treat yourself to a summer of beauty and fun. Sponsored by the Water Garden Society of Greater Kansas City.

Purchases tickets through Eventbrite by visiting kcwatergardens.com/tour.

Miami County Garden Tour Sep 10–11, 9a–5p; Enjoy six unique country gardens, rain or shine. Purchase tickets at any garden, $15 (cash or check only) good for both days. Map will be available online, in the September issue of KC Gardener, and on your ticket. Sponsored by K-State Research and Extension Master Gardeners, 913-294-4306. www.maraisdescygnes.ksu.edu, www.facebook.com/ mdcemg.

Promote plant sales, club meetings, classes, and other gardening events for FREE! Send details to: elizabeth@ kcgmag.com. Deadline for publishing in the September issue is August 5.

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The Kansas City Gardener | August 2021

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PLANTS ON YOUR PLATE Zucchini ties to use later. With this method, you will want to drain the liquid that separates prior to use. Another good use for over-mature zucchini is preparing in a relish. The recipe below is a one that I prefer over a standard cucumber relish and is simple for even a novice canner.

If you are new to food preservation, please seek out reliable, research-based resources, like the

National Center for Home Food Preservation at https://nchfp.uga. edu/ or MU Extension’s Food Preservation website https://extension. missouri.edu/programs/food-preservation.

You might also consider enrolling in MU Extension’s self-paced on-line course, which can be found at https://extension.missouri.edu/ food-preservation-2021.

Summer Squash Relish YIELD: About 5 pint jars

Z

ucchini – an often misunderstood and scorned vegetable.

When it is growing in abundance, people often try to give it away to neighbors or even ‘dropping and dashing’ on doorsteps! I too, have shared my overage with friends and family, sometimes to the point of begging them to please take it. My solution to overabundance is to have a wide variety of preparation options to choose from.

Zucchini is a member of the Cucurbitaceae family and is known in Europe as ‘courgette’. It descends from squash plants grown through Central America and into Mexico more than 7000 years ago. Zucchini as we know it today was bred in Milan in the late 19th century and appeared in North America in the early 20th century. It is categorized as a summer squash, with a tender skin and small edible seeds.

Ordinary zucchini can range in color from shades of green to deep golden.

Squash is one of the ‘three sisters’ plants, along with corn and beans, commonly grown in native American cultures. The corn provided a structure for the climbing beans, while the bean vines better rooted the corn to ground so the stalks were not as easily blown

over or washed out. The beans added nitrogen in the soil to fertilize the other plants. The squash vines acted as living mulch to deter weed plants and retain moisture in the soil, while the prickly stems deterred pests from damaging the plants. When the three crops were eaten together, they provided a nutritional balance of carbohydrates, protein, healthy fats, and vitamins.

Zucchini, alone, is a good source of antioxidants Vitamins A and C, as well as potassium, magnesium, and folate. These nutrients help to reduce the risk of heart disease and certain cancers, aid in eye health and healing of skin and gums.

Zucchinis are best when harvested when they are six to eight inches long. They can be eaten raw on a vegetable tray or cooked in a variety of ways. Some of my favorite cooking methods included sautéing or roasting as a side dish, stuffed with a variety of fillings as a main dish, or even baked as a sweet treat like cake or muffins. It is not uncommon for zucchini to ‘hide’ in my garden and suddenly grow to the size of my forearm! When they grow past the ‘young and tender’ stage, I prefer to use these for baking into bread, and I will often shred and freeze in one to two cup quanti-

DENISE SULLIVAN Nutrition Ninja 10

August 2021 | kcgmag.com

INGREDIENTS 4 pounds fresh, firm yellow and/or zucchini summer squash (as purchased) ½ cup diced sweet onion (about 2.4 ounces prepared) 2 cups cider vinegar (5%) 2¼ cups white sugar 2 teaspoons celery seed 2 teaspoons turmeric 4 teaspoons mustard seed PROCEDURE 1. Wash and rinse pint or half-pint canning jars; keep hot until ready to fill. Prepare lids and ring bands according to manufacturer’s directions.

2. Rinse squash well, remove blossom and stem ends and shred in a food processor. Peel onions and remove root and stem ends.

Rinse well and dice, or shred in a food processor.

3. Combine remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Carefully add squash and onions. Return combined ingredients to a boil; boil gently for 5 minutes, stirring often.

4. Pack hot vegetables with liquid into hot jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Remove air bubbles and adjust headspace if needed. Make sure liquid covers the top of the food pieces. Wipe rims of jars with a dampened, clean paper towel. Apply and adjust prepared canning lids.

5. Process in a boiling water canner according to the recommendations for altitude: Style of Pack

Jar Size

0–1,000 ft

1,001–6,000 ft

Above 6,000 ft

Hot

Pints or Half pints

15 mins

20 mins

25 mins

6. Let cool, undisturbed, 12 to 24 hours and check for seals.

Source: National Center for Home Food Preservation

Denise Sullivan (@MUExtJacksonCo) is a Nutrition and Health Education Specialist for MU Extension in Jackson County. For research based nutrition and food safety information and programs, call 816-4825850 or visit https://extension2.missouri.edu/..

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www.missouriorganic.com The Kansas City Gardener | August 2021

11

Abelia

shrub for any garden style

or more hours of direct sun per day.

Some varieties reportedly tolerate more shade, but be prepared for them to be less vivid in color and leggier in habit. As a low maintenance plant, it requires little pruning; too much will cause it to lose

August 2021 | kcgmag.com

tion pops against red stems on a compact plant that reaches a max of 3 feet tall and wide. ‘Kaleidoscope’ is a sport of ‘Little Richard’ and retains many of the same qualities as its parent, including a high tolerance for sun and heat.

well-watered during the hot summer months to help maintain good foliage color.

‘Funshine’ by Proven Winners gives a great season-long show.

New growth emerges in an orange/ copper shade which pops against the bright green mature foliage on a 3’ x 3’ bush. This makes a great substitute for ‘Goldmound’ and ‘Goldflame’ Spirea.

‘Kaleidoscope’ is the most popular Abelia in the industry, sought after by gardeners and landscapers for its stunning foliage and long bloom time. Gold-yellow variega-

‘Little Richard’ blooms very heavily and freely throughout the summer and has a dense growth habit at 3’ x 3’. Very heat tolerant.

‘Radiance’ is a great choice for gardeners looking to add a splash of silvery-white variegation to their landscape. This variety is a midsize at 3’ tall and up to 5’ wide, and has a later bloom time than most others.

‘Sweet Emotion’ is one of the taller varieties available in retail with an average size of 6’ tall and wide. This variety tolerates colder temperatures than most others.

Sweet Emotion its attractive shape. If temperatures are harsh during the winter, dieback to the ground may occur, but most varieties recover well when pruned and even bloom during the same season. These are not heavy feeders, however, in his book Manual of Woody Landscape Plants, Michael Dirr recommends a late winter fertilizer in early March, and another application in June to promote healthy foliage and blooms. Use a general, balanced shrub fertilizer.

Watering too little during the summer heat can stress the plant. Make sure to water deeply during extend-

SEAN HOLLAND Perennials Manager 12

ed periods of high temperatures, and don’t rely on lawn sprinklers to get the job done.

‘Canyon Creek’ has a medium to large habit, maxxing out at 5 feet tall and wide with a free-flowering bloom all summer. Keep this one

Photo courtesy of Proven Winners.

G

ardeners always seem to be on the lookout for a unique plant to put in their landscapes. Perhaps we are drawn to new and exciting varieties, or we may just want to make sure to have something in our gardens that the neighbors don’t have yet!

Frequently considered a southern plant, Abelia are graceful and lowmaintenance shrubs that are making their way into our gardens in the Midwest as new varieties are released from growers nationwide.

Abelia are prized by landscapers and gardeners for their dense, yet graceful structure. Their glossy foliage set against often red or dark stems add texture to landscapes, while the fall color adds a stunning, vibrant look that persists through the early winter months. As a semievergreen, gardeners can expect to see different varieties hold their foliage until the new year, with some varieties retaining foliage late into winter. Don’t be surprised if the foliage drops when temperatures approach lower teens for multiple days at a time. Many growers describe Abelia as a “deer resistant” plant (note that there is no such thing as “deer-proof”).

The number of Abelia varieties hitting the markets makes it a versatile plant for different landscape applications. Smaller varieties lend themselves to be great specimens in butterfly gardens or showy mass plantings, while larger varieties make great focal points. Many gardeners are choosing to plant dwarf Abelia, like ‘Kaleidoscope’ and ‘Funshine’ as a substitute for Spirea, as they have similar habits.

Many growers advertise that they are “great for containers,” but this is not recommended in this zone unless you are prepared to treat it like an annual.

A sun lover, Abelia prefers six

Sean Holland is Perennials Manager at Suburban Lawn & Garden, 135th and Wornall location, in Kansas City, Missouri. You may reach him at seanh@suburbanlg.com.

Photo courtesy of Monrovia.

Kaleidoscope Photo courtesy of Proven Winners.

Photo courtesy of Garden Debut.

Sweet Emotion Funshine Canyon Creek

Above: Funshine; Below: Little Richard

Above: Radiance; Below: Kaleidoscope

The Kansas City Gardener | August 2021

13 Photo courtesy of Greenleaf Nursery Company.

Photo courtesy of Proven Winners.

Photo courtesy of Monrovia.

Photo courtesy of Proven Winners.

Rose Report Photo courtesy of Star Roses and Plants.

A

August 2021 | kcgmag.com

Photo courtesy of Easy Elegance.

Crown Princess of Margareta

ent when you touch your plants and puffs of whiteflies emerge. Use the same directions mentioned above for spider mites. If that doesn’t work, you will need to use an insecticide to get them under control.

The rabbits have been especially hungry for roses this season.

The best defense for the ravenous rabbits is fencing; effective but not very attractive.

All this information on rose eating pests may be disheartening. To lift your spirits, here’s a list of the roses that are performing well despite these adversities.

Remember to Stop and Smell the Roses!

JUDY PENNER Expert Rosarian 14

Super Hero

My Girl

Aloha – Hybrid Tea Climber, Medium Pink Dublin Bay – Large Climber, Medium Red Francis Meilland – Hybrid Tea, Light Pink Fredrick Mistral – Hybrid Tea, Light Pink My Girl – Shrub, Deep Pink

Dick Clark – Grandiflora, Red Blend Strike It Rich – Grandiflora, Yellow Blend

Gruss An Aachen – Floribunda, Light Pink Cinco De Mayo – Floribunda, Russet Super Hero – Floribunda, Medium Red Sir John Betjeman – Shrub (Austin), Medium Pink

Photo courtesy of David Austin Roses.

Strike It Rich

Golden Fairy Tale – Hybrid Tea, Yellow Blend

About Face – Grandiflora, Orange Blend

Rainbow Knockout Photo courtesy of Star Roses and Plants.

Francis Meilland

Photo courtesy of Easy Elegance.

s I am writing this article in mid-July, the Japanese Beetles are feasting on the roses and rose leaves. It seems we have more Japanese Beetles this year than last year. They showed up on the 16th of June, a week later than normal. They typically stay for 4 to 6 weeks, then leave the middle of July or the 1st of August. The faithful Kansas City Rose Society Garden Groomers pick off the beetles twice a week and put them in baggies. I also spray for them twice a month.

Midge, a small fly similar to a mosquito, has been an unwanted visitor to the garden for many years as well. Once Midge finds a garden, a yearly granular application of a grub control insecticide, applied in May to the beds and surrounding lawn, is necessary. A spray program targeting the midge is also needed to control the pest. The symptoms of Midge damage are twofold; one blackens the bud and the other symptom deforms the bud, keeping the rose from blooming. If Midge is not treated, rose foliage will look healthy but the rose will not bloom.

Spider Mites have been especially prevalent this year, making webs on the underside of the leaves and turning the leaves bronze and eventually defoliating the rose. In our area Spider Mites tend to attack at the end of June or the first week in July. If left untreated they can potentially kill a rose. Frequent strong blasts of water to the underside of the leaves can help reduce the population. Also a 1% solution of horticultural oil, sprayed on the underside of the leaves, can give some control. If you have a bad case of mites, a miticide, not an insecticide, will be necessary to control the mites. Keep in mind a second application may be needed 21 days later.

Whiteflies, a pest I haven’t seen in the garden for a long time and never in such large numbers, has really made a home in the garden this year. You know whiteflies are pres-

Photo courtesy of Knockout Roses.

bugs and beauties

Heritage – Shrub (Austin), Light Pink Crown Princess of Margareta – Shrub (Austin), Apricot Blend Morden Blush – Shrub (Austin), Light Pink Prairie Sunrise – Shrub, Apricot Blend Country Dancer – Shrub, Deep Pink Quietness – Shrub, Light Pink Belinda’s Dream – Shrub, Medium Pink Rainbow Knockout – Shrub, Pink Blend Alba Meilland – Shrub, White Home Run – Shrub, Medium Red Lady Elsie May – Shrub, Orange Pink

Judy Penner is Expert Rosarian at Loose Park, Kansas City, Missouri. You may reach her at judyssecretgardens@gmail.com.

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The Kansas City Gardener | August 2021

15

Shades of Sunlight: What Native Perennial or Grass is Best for Your Garden?

Photo by Scott Woodbury.

O

n October 15, 1987 a weather bomb developed off the coast of England. It struck quickly, with little warning and centuries-old groves of oak and ash came tumbling to the ground. Shade gardens turned sunny in a blink of an eye. An arborist colleague, who was sent to Kew Gardens to assist with the debris cleanup, told me that this devastating storm created opportunity, by bringing sunlight to gardens for the first time in centuries.

In a small way, this cyclone reminds me of the micro-burst and straight-line wind events that occur in our region. I’ve seen four of these events in 30 years. Each time, two or three trees standing side by side came down on top of each other in a twisted heap, the result of 80-mileper-hour (or greater) wind gusts. In the Whitmire Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve, massive oaks and walnuts came down, bringing temporary destruction. But they also brought full sunlight to once shady parts of the garden, and an opportunity to grow a wider variety of sunloving native plants.

The Whitmire Garden has many medium to large trees and not enough direct sunlight in many places. The same is true for many urban neighborhoods in Missouri. For many home gardeners, too much shade leads to plant performance problems for perennials and grasses. It’s the main reason why rattlesnake master (Eryngium yuccifolium), prairie blazing star (Liatris pycnostachya), and blue sage (Salvia azurea) flop over in summer. It’s why butterfly milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa), pale purple coneflower (Echinacea pallida), and little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) often rot in winter.

It’s also why wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa) gets powdery mildew and why fringed bluestar (Amsonia ciliata) gets rust. It’s why blue wild indigo (Baptisia australis), slender mountain mint (Pycnanthe-

Wild sweet William, celandine poppy and Virginia bluebells in dense shade. mum tenuifolia), blueflag iris (Iris virginica), and Missouri evening primrose (Oenothera macrocarpa) bloom poorly. Homeowners may want to know which plants do best in full sun—a situation with a minimum of six hours of direct mid-day sunlight.

Other plants that perform best in full sun include the grasses big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii), sideoats grama (Bouteloua curtipendula), and prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolopis). Perennials in this category include fall glade onion (Allium stellatum), shining blue star (Amsonia illustris), white wild indigo (Baptisia alba), purple prairie clover (Dalea purpurea), yellow coneflower (Echinacea paradoxa), rose verbena (Glandularia canadensis), rose mallow (Hibiscus lasiocarpus), copper iris (Iris fulva), rough blazing star (Liatris aspera), prickly pear (Opuntia humifusa), purple

SCOTT WOODBURY Horticulturist 16

August 2021 | kcgmag.com

beardtongue (Penstemon cobaea), long-headed coneflower (Ratibida columnifera), Missouri coneflower (Rudbeckia missouriensis), royal catchfly (Silene regia), and compass plant (Silphium laciniatum).

Light shade (also called part sun) is typically defined as three to five hours of direct mid-day sunlight.

Why mid-day sun? Because when gardens are bathed in sunlight during the hottest part of the day (midday), direct sunlight increases plant and soil temperatures, which slightly dries out the soil. Morning and evening sunlight won’t warm and dry the soil as much. This benefits a certain group of plants listed below.

As you locate plants in the garden, keep in mind that light-shade plants also do well in direct sunlight, but do worse in greater shade. Light-shade conditions are more common than full sun in most home landscapes.

Better plant choices for light

shade include yellow-fruited fox (Carex annectans) and palm (C. muskingumensis) sedges, switchgrass (Panicum virgatum), eastern blue star (Amsonia tabernaemontana), thimbleweed (Anemone virginica), common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), Texas green Eyes (Berlandiera texana), Ohio horsemint (Blephilia ciliata), purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), prairie coreopsis (Coreopsis palmata), rose turtlehead (Chelone obliqua), ox-eye sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides), prairie alumroot (Heuchera richardsonii), eastern blazing star (Liatris scariosa), American aloe (Manfreda virginica), Bradbury beebalm (Monarda bradburiana), foxglove beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis), gray-headed coneflower (Ratibida pinnata), showy (Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii) or orange coneflowers (R. fulgida var. umbrosa), sweet coneflower (Rudbeckia subtomentosa), wild senna (Senna marilandica), prairie dock (Silphium terebinthinaceum), aromatic aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium), showy (Solidago speciosa) and cliff (S. drummondii) goldenrods, curlytop ironweed (Vernonia arkansana), culver’s root (Veronicastrum virginicum) and golden Alexanders (Zizia aurea). These plants perform better in most home landscapes (with light shade) than plants that perform best in full sun. In the case of common milkweed, light shade conditions will slow its spread, allowing it to kindly meander in the garden.

When common milkweed sprouts up where you don’t want it, simply cut stalks off at the base.

Medium shade (also called part shade or high shade) is two hours of direct morning or evening sunlight with dappled or high shade the rest of the day. High shade is a condition that occurs when medium to large canopy trees (30–60

Horticulturist Scott Woodbury is the Curator of the Whitmore Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve in Gray Summit, MO, where he has worked with native plant propagation, design, and education for 28 years, and which is supported by the Missouri Dept. of Conservation. He also is an advisor to the Missouri Prairie Foundation’s Grow Native! program.

ft. tall) are limbed up high on the trunk (about 10–20 ft.), allowing indirect (reflected) sunlight to spill into the garden from the sides.

Dappled sunlight occurs when gaps in the canopy between trees allow some direct sunlight to shine on the ground below. Trees growing farther apart (greater than 50 ft.) have larger gaps and greater direct sunlight on the ground than trees growing closer together (less than 50 ft.). A wider variety of plants can be grown beneath limbed up trees with dappled and high shade.

Plants that thrive in medium shade include Oak (Carex albicans) and Pennsylvania (C. pennsylvanica) sedges, American beakgrain (Diarrhena obovata) grass, American spikenard (Aralia racemosa), goat’s beard (Aruncus dioicus), purple milkweed (Asclepias purpurascens), star coreopsis (Coreopsis pubescens), tall larkspur (Delphinium exaltatum), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), Joe pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum), Indian physic (Gillenia stipulata), littleflower (Heuchera parviflora) and American (H. americana) alumroots, purple rocket (Iodanthus pinnatifidus), downy skullcap (Scutellaria incana), roundleaf groundsel (Packera aurea), yellow wingstem (Verbesina helianthoides), and woodland knotweed (Polygonum virginianum).

Dense shade has very little or no direct sunlight. These areas are directly beneath medium to large canopy trees, between closely spaced trees (50 ft. or less) or on the north side of a building. Plants that perform well in dense shade include globe (Carex grayii) and hop (C. lupulina) sedges, sensitive fern (Onoclea sensibilus), black cohosh (Actaea racemosa), wild columbine (Aquilegia canadensis), wild ginger (Asarum canadensis), wild geranium (Geranium maculatum), Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica), golden groundsel (Packera aurea), wild sweet William (Phlox divaricata), Jacob’s ladder (Polemonium reptans), Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum commutatum), Solomon’s plume (Smilacena racemosa), Indian pink (Spigelia marylandica), zig-zag (Solidago flexicaulis) and rough-leaved (S. rugosa) goldenrods, celandine poppy (Stylophorum diphyllum), woodland spiderwort (Tradescantia ernestiana) and bellwort (Uvularia grandiflora).

Plants may do poorly in medi-

um to dense shade due to tree root competition from medium to large trees. Maple (Acer spp.) and hackberry (Celtis spp.) trees are difficult to grow perennials and grasses under, because they have very shallow, fibrous roots. Oak (Quercus spp.), American linden (Tilia americana), and black gum (Nyssa sylvatica) are easier to garden under

because they have deeper, coarser roots like a jump rope, with large gaps between roots where perennials and grasses can grow.

Author’s note: Many gardeners aren’t concerned with top performance. An old friend, Pat Grace (may she rest in peace) had an aster collection growing beneath the shade of an oak tree. Though they

were slender specimens, they still bloomed, they were carefully studied and greatly enjoyed by Pat and every person she showed them to, myself included. You might ask, if native plants can bring that much joy to people, then how much does top performance really matter? A different answer lies within each of us. Happy gardening!

Take the guesswork out of fertilizing

By Dennis L. Patton, M.S., County Horticulture Agent, K-State Research and Extension/Johnson County

I’m often asked, “Why should I get a soil test?” The first key to lawn and garden success is knowing soil fertility.

A soil test reveals the baseline nutritional values of your soil. A test can determine the type and amounts of fertilizer needed for optimal plant health. A good soil test also determines the pH level of the soil so corrections can be made.

Soil fertility is something that cannot be seen, felt or guessed. It varies from one yard to the next. In many cases the test shows that too many nutrients have been applied and additional chemical elements such as phosphorous and potassium may be harmful.

Phosphorous and potassium levels build up in KC soils. Excess can harm growth, or worse, leach out and pollute streams and lakes. Many garden resources recommend a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 5-10-5. Long term use of these products can lead to chemical buildup. Soil testing takes the guesswork out of fertilizing.

A common misbelief is that our local soils need lime. Lime raises the pH, and most KC soils already have high levels. A simple soil test will

determine soil pH. You’ll then learn the correct treatment options, saving you money.

Extension recommends a soil test every three to five years. All local extension offices provide soil testing services. Soil samples brought or mailed to the Johnson County Extension office are sent to the Soil Testing Laboratory at Kansas State University in Manhattan. I analyze the lab results and write a personalized recommendation.

Your report is usually mailed to you in two to three weeks.

August is an excellent time to test the soil, especially if you are planning on a late summer lawn renovation. Save yourself time and money by getting your soil tested today.

It all starts with a soil test!

If you crave that spring green, fertilize this September.

• September fertilization is critical to your lawn’s health • Applying just the right kind and amount of fertilizer saves you money and protects our water quality

Start your lawn off right!

Johnson County Residents, get one FREE soil test.

Learn more at

johnson.k-state.edu or call 913.715.7000

• JoCo Residents: Get one free soil test and a personalized recommendation for your lawn Funding provided by the Johnson County Stormwater Management Program.

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In p a r t n e r sh i p to ge t h e r The Kansas City Gardener | August 2021

17

Indoor Gardening: Grow What You’ll Eat

T

he most fulfilling part of growing your own food, in my opinion, is having the opportunity to enjoy eating it! It’s the culmination of so much careful planning and tending to your garden all the way from seed to harvest. It’s the payoff for all your hard work.

That’s why I typically respond to the question “what should I grow?” with another question; “what do you like to eat?” I can’t imagine an easier way to become dissuaded from gardening than to spend months preparing and maintaining your crops, only to leave the fruits of your labor to waste.

While that may seem ridiculous, I can’t even count the number of people I have met who grow food that they don’t like to eat. Sometimes it’s because they just aren’t aware of all the varieties they could potentially grow. Sometimes it’s because they read somewhere that a plant was easy to care for and they wanted to have quick success.

Sometimes it’s because they simply loved the idea of growing their own food, read about plants that do well in their region, and then planted the varieties that were listed.

What I encourage everyone to do is take a step back, wait until you’re starting to feel hungry and then write down a list of foods that sound appetizing. This should be your starting point. Don’t make a list of the things you “should” eat or that belong to a special nutrition plan you read about in a book. Find the dishes you crave and then break down the list of ingredients. Identify which of those ingredients are plants. Pick one or two from that list to grow so you can use them in your favorite recipe. Even if you don’t grow every single ingredient, you’ve got to start somewhere.

This is where the allure of indoor gardening takes hold because it’s within your power to create the en-

Basil is a plant ingredient that is easy to grow and can be used in a myriad of recipes. vironment necessary to grow ANYTHING your heart desires.

Let’s be clear. I’m certainly an advocate for healthy eating, and I believe that meals with less ingredients and the fewest possible steps away from their natural source are better for you in the long run. But this isn’t an article about nutrition, it’s about finding success growing your own food. If you want to cultivate nothing but arugula and celery, more power to you. In my case, I’m daydreaming of a carb-lover’s dream, pesto pasta!

I’m still going to need pine nuts, olive oil, pasta, etc., from the grocery store, but there is one plant ingredient I can easily grow myself – basil. What’s more, basil can be used in a myriad of different recipes which means growing it all year-round is even more appealing. For this herb, we’re going to use a Continuous Flow or Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) hydroponic system to ensure we never run out of fresh leaves to harvest. Don’t be overwhelmed by the name. It just means there are some tubes with a water-nutrient solution flowing through them, feeding the plant roots 24/7.

JASON MISPAGEL Indoor Gardener 18

August 2021 | kcgmag.com

Complete kits are available in stores or online, but a basic system can be built from only a few components. You will need a reservoir to hold your water-nutrient solution (a 3-to-5-gallon Rubbermaid bin will do the trick). Fill the reservoir with water and a “grow” nutrient of your choice based on the recommended proportions from the product’s label. This is typically something with higher levels of nitrogen and potassium like General Hydroponics’ FloraNova Grow. It’s best to bring the pH of your nutrient solution to 5.5-6.0 for optimal growth, using pH Up or pH Down as necessary.

Pick up a few feet of 4-inch diameter PVC tubing and drill 2-inch diameter holes every 8 inches on the top. Place a 2-inch net pot in each hole. This is your “channel.”

Turn some PVC piping or other material into a small rectangular stand that holds your channel above the reservoir with one end slightly higher than the other. Place the stand so that when water runs down the channel, it spills back into the reservoir.

Place a small water pump (150+ gallons per hour) in the reservoir

and run flexible plastic tubing from the pump to the high-end of the channel. Plug in the pump. You should now have a continuous flow of nutrient solution from the reservoir to the top of the channel and then carried by gravity down the bottom of the channel, back into the reservoir.

A 100W LED fixture situated 18” above the plants on a timer with a 14-ON, 10-OFF schedule will provide more-than-enough light to begin placing your basil seedlings in the 2” net pots throughout the channel. Seeds can be started in a number of different mediums, but I prefer 1.5” rockwool or Oasis cubes to minimize the mess and ensure a good fit into the net pots. As the basil grows, its roots will expand into the channel and live in the constantly flowing nutrient solution.

Keep temperatures on the warmer side, around 75°F to 85°F and you will be harvesting fresh leaves in just a few weeks. Occasionally, you will need to pinch or cut a flower. If the flavor begins to change or the flowers show up too frequently on certain plants, remove them and insert new seedlings in their place.

Jason Mispagel is the co-owner and operator of Year-Round Garden, a grower’s supply center serving both home and commercial customers since 2016. To contact Jason, call 816-216-6917 or jason@year-roundgarden.com.

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Greater Kansas City Iris Society Plant Sale Saturday, August 21 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Trailside Center 99th & Holmes, KCMO Bearded iris in a variety of classes will be available for sale: TB, BB, IB, SDB, MTB Come early for best selection as last year was a sell out!

Bring this coupon to our sale to receive one FREE Median Iris.

No purchase necessary.

www.kciris.org

MARIA’S FAMOUS BELGIAN MUMS ARE BACK! 9108 W. 57th Merriam, KS 66203 (1 blk E. of Merriam Dr.) Hrs: Mon.–Fri. 7am–5pm • Sat. 8am–12pm

5 huge Mums on sale for $47.99

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It’s time for lawn renovation and aeration

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2013

Need a speaker for your church, civic group or garden club? The Johnson County Extension Speakers’ Bureau have the speakers you are looking for on just about any topic like soil testing, environmentally safe lawn care, or perennial flower gardening.

We can adapt to meet your group’s needs, from a short 20-minute presentation to a longer format, if needed. While there are no fees for a volunteer speaker, a donation to Extension or the chosen volunteer organization is appreciated.

To schedule a speaker for your group, please contact the office. For more information on this service, call 913-715-7000.

d Plants Pets an ts Bouque Native des Nemato ial fic ne ? in Love Using Be ll Fa rflies Do Butte

We carry a large selection of domestic and imported koi from the best suppliers!

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One free, easy call gets your utility lines marked AND helps protect you from injury and expense.

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Scheduling pond cleanings now.

We have the friendliest, knowledgeable staff and serve the entire Kansas City metro!

Pond maintenance and builders inquiries welcome.

816-842-5012 • pondskc.com 1557 Swift Ave., KCMO

Check our website and Facebook for more information.

The Kansas City Gardener | August 2021

19

Flower Power in your Butterfly Garden

Flowers as Gatekeepers Flowers are the reproductive organs of plants and bloom in many forms such as the flat petals of cone flowers, the short tubes of mints, the deep throats of lilies and flat multi-flowered umbels like members of the carrot family. Why wouldn’t a simple white daisy suffice for all plants? The amazing variety of colors, sizes and shapes is the flower’s way of communicating with pollinators, telling them either “come on in” or “go away.”

Encouraging favorite pollinators to be faithful maximizes the flower’s reproductive efficiency because the pollinator must go from Zinnia to Zinnia to Zinnia to perform fertilization. If it visits a Zinnia, then a Marigold, then a Cleome, then all of those flowers’ pollen has been wasted and all are still unfertilized.

Flower Power Ploys The flower’s shape determines whether the pollinator can balance on the flower and reach the nectar.

Color not only attracts pollinators, it can select which pollinators since bees can’t see the color red. A red flower is invisible to them and not a target for pollination. Conversely, hummingbirds are attracted by the color red so red flowers and red plastic feeders will attract them to nectar’s sweet bribe. The flow-

ers’ odor is an attractant, especially for foraging bees. Odor can also be very specific if mimicking the aroma of a particular female bee’s pheromones. Males of the same species will be attracted and will serve as pollinators as they attempt to mate with flowers that look and smell like a female bee.

Inviting Butterflies Color or fragrance are not primary attractants for butterflies, but flower shape and nectary depth determine which flowers will be used. A flower like Echinacea (Cone Flower) or Rudbeckia puts out the welcome mat for butterflies by providing a flat surface for landing and balancing those proportionally huge wings plus for tasting the flower with the tastebuds in their feet. Closely packed small flowers like Lantana and Butterfly Bush can also provide a flat surface. Because butterflies have relatively short tongues, nectaries must be shallow to ensure that the nectar is within reach. Flowers such as Milkweeds, Zinnia, Sunflowers, Tithonia (Mexican Sunflower), and Coreopsis also meet the butterflies’ criteria.

Deep Throat Speaks The deep placement of a lily’s nectar doesn’t deter most pollinators that can simply stroll down the long tube to the nectar pot. However, butterflies can’t fold their wings to make the journey so lilies are telling the short-tongued, big-winged butterflies to “Just leave me alone.” Additionally, many lily-shaped flowers bloom at night when bees and butterflies are asleep. Nocturnal lilies are telling both bees and butterflies that they are not welcome. Instead, they emit an intense perfume in the evening to call in the night flying Hummingbird Moths. Again, the flower chooses its pollinator.

LENORA LARSON Butterfly Maven 20

August 2021 | kcgmag.com

Photos by Lenora Larson.

B

utterflies flit aimlessly from flower to flower. That’s a problem for plants which need a pollinator’s repeat visits to reproduce. Fortunately, plants have many ways to manipulate pollinators into the correct behavior. First, nectar is produced solely for the purpose of attracting pollinators and bribes them to return over and over for another sweet taste. More sophisticated selection strategies can determine which pollinators come to any particular flower.

This Southern Dogface Sulphur will return to zinnias because the flat surface and shallow nectaries are “perfect”.

Giant Swallowtails, like pictured left, favor Tithonia (Mexican Sunflower) for their large size and composite flowers.

This night-blooming Datura can accommodate the Carolina Hummingbird Moth’s 10-inch-long tongue.

A Marais des Cygnes Master Gardener, Lenora is a member of the Idalia Butterfly Society and Kansas Native Plant Society. She gardens in the clay soil and cruel winds of Paola, KS. She may be contacted at lenora.longlips@gmail.com.

Puddle Jumping Water Garden Tour

T

he Puddle Jumping Water Garden Tour continues with two tours in August. Tickets are available at Eventbrite or our website, kcwatergardens.com.

Tour #4 is August 7th and extends from Prairie Village to Louisburg, Kansas. This tour in Southern Johnson County is filled with flowers, exotic Butterfly Koi, meticulously landscaped yards, and an exquisite bronze mermaid overlooking a backyard treasure. Tour goers end the day in Louisburg at Swan’s Water Gardens, highlighting seven different ponds with flowers galore and so much more.

The FREE night party (6 to 10 p.m.) sponsored by Prestige One Landscaping, is set in a luscious flower-filled backyard. Enjoy light refreshments and music while you get all your questions answered by the builder, Roye Dillon.

Tour #5 on August 21st features nine gorgeous sites in historic Lawrence, Kansas. Single day tour tickets are available from our friends at Clinton Parkway Nursery as well as Eventbrite and our website, kcwatergardens.com. Tour large yards with arbors, fountains, majestic waterfalls, bog filtration with plants on steroids, and a 1920’s era in-ground swimming pool. There is something for the whole family in Lawrence.

Plan to stay for the FREE night party, sponsored by Anything Aquatic. Builder Mike Parmley will be happy to share information on bogs and water features.

This is a great opportunity to ask any questions about his designs and style of water gardens.

Enjoy refreshments and music while you stroll, marveling at the beauty of a pond after sunset.

The grand finale of our six tours is September 11th.

Koi Pond and Water Feature Designs

New Installations, Remodels Upgrades, Repairs and Maintenance Services

Bringing glorious living color to your garden since 1977.

Summer is Here!

Follow us on Facebook for all the latest Specials and Deals!

Our 2021 Plant List is available on our our Facebook page. We hope to see you soon.

www.arnoldsgreenhouse.com info@arnoldsgreenhouse.com (620) 964-2463 • 1430 Hwy 58, LeRoy, KS 66857 Open 9a-5p Monday-Saturday, Closed Sundays

A September to Remember

FALL GARDEN TOUR September 10 & 11, 9 am – 5 pm in Miami County, Kansas

Explore 6 intriguing gardens, rain or shine.

Tickets $15. Purchase at any garden (cash or check only). Good for both days.

No strollers or pets please.

Map will be available in the September issue of this magazine, on your ticket, and online: www.maraisdescygnes.ksu.edu www.facebook.com/mdcemg 913-294-4306 Sponsored by

Wendy Hix • 913.481.5416 Tate Foster • 913.406.6804 www.hixandsonaquatics.com

Kansas City Gardener | August 2021 1/4 page ad (4.375 The x 5.874) for August 2021 KCG issue21

GARDEN CALENDAR August list of what to do in the garden.

LAWNS

• Water bluegrass lawns two to three times per week, applying a total of about 1 ½ inches of water for a lush green look.

• Water tall fescue one to two times per week, applying a total of 1 inch of water.

• Water lower maintenance lawns once every 1 to 2 weeks, allowing it to go dormant.

• Mow the lawn as needed based on growth.

• Keep mower blades sharp.

• Apply last application of fertilizer to zoysia by mid-month.

• Control unwanted zoysia or Bermuda in early August.

• Plan for fall renovation projects such as aerating or seeding.

• Take a soil test to determine a fertility program.

FLOWERS

• Apply 1 to 1 ½ inches of water per week to gardens.

• Divide irises and daylilies during their dormant period.

• Make last application of fertilizer to roses by mid-month.

• Control black spot and other rose diseases.

• Fertilize mums, hardy asters, and other fall-blooming perennials.

• Deadhead annuals to encourage late season blooms.

• Cut back and fertilize overgrown annuals to produce new growth.

• Sow hollyhocks, poppies, and larkspur for spring.

• Prepare for fall bulb planting by making orders or researching varieties.

• Take cuttings from geraniums and begonias for wintering indoors.

VEGETABLES AND FRUITS

• Water 1 inch per week.

• Plant a fall garden, beets, carrots, beans, and turnips for autumn harvest.

• Plant transplants of broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage for fall production.

• Harvest crops regularly for season-long production.

• Ease fruit loads on branches by propping with wooden supports.

• Net ripening fruit to protect from hungry birds.

• Fertilize strawberry beds for added flower bud development.

• Turn compost pile and add water when dry.

TREES AND SHRUBS

• Water young trees every 1 to 2 weeks, thoroughly soaking the root system.

• Prune and shape hedges.

• Check mulch layer and replenish if needed.

• Prune broken, dead, or crossing limbs.

• Check young trees and shrubs for girdling wires and ropes.

• Avoid fertilizing so limbs harden off before winter.

• Remove bagworms by handpicking.

HOUSEPLANTS

• Water summered houseplants regularly and fertilize to promote growth.

• Check plants for insects such as scales, aphids, and spider mites.

• Wash plants to remove dust layers.

• Make cuttings and repot plants before summer sun slips away.

MY GARDEN (Use this space to list additional tasks to accomplish in your garden.)

• • • •

Johnson County K-State Research and Extension recommends environmentally-friendly gardening practices. This starts by identifying and monitoring problems. Cultural practices and controls are the best approach for a healthy garden. If needed, use physical, biological or chemical controls. Always consider the least toxic approach first. Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

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August 2021 | kcgmag.com

Hotlines for Gardeners Extension Master Gardeners are ready to answer your gardening questions.

Safe Digging starts with

CASS COUNTY

816-380-8494; Wed, 9am-noon

DOUGLAS COUNTY

785-843-7058; dgcogardenhotline@gmail.com; Mon, Wed, Fri, 1-4pm

GREATER KANSAS CITY MISSOURI AREA

816-833-8733 (TREE); Mon-Fri, 9am-noon; mggkc.hotline@gmail.com

1

Call or Click 3 Working Days Before You Dig.

2

Wait the Required Amount of Time.

3

Confirm Utility Response.

4

Respect the Marks.

5

Dig with Care.

JOHNSON COUNTY, KS

913-715-7050; Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm; garden.help@jocogov.org

JOHNSON COUNTY, MO

660-747-3193; Wed, 9am-noon

LEAVENWORTH COUNTY

913-364-5700; Leave a message. A Master Gardener will contact you.

MIAMI COUNTY & LINN COUNTY 913-294-4306; Thurs, 8am-noon

WYANDOTTE COUNTY

913-299-9300; Mon, Wed, Fri, 9am-4pm

QUESTIONS ABOUT ROSES?

Ask a Rosarian; kcrosehelp@gmail.com; www.kansascityrosesociety.org

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August 2021 | kcgmag.com