KCG Nov20

The Kansas City

GARDENER November 2020 | kcgmag.com

Midwest Prairie Primer superstar natives for your garden

editor’s notes

The Kansas City

GARDENER Independently owned and operated since 1996 PUBLISHER Michael Cavanaugh EDITOR Elizabeth Cavanaugh CONTRIBUTORS Alan Branhagen Nik and Theresa Hiremath Dennis Patton Judy Penner Tamra Reall Chelsea Didde Rice Phil Roudebush Denise Sullivan Ken Wallace Scott Woodbury DISTRIBUTION Publishers Delivery Solutions, Inc. IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO DISTRIBUTE the magazine at your place of business, please contact Mike Cavanaugh at mike@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 NEED MORE MAGAZINES? mike@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 CONTACT US P.O. Box 8725 Prairie Village, KS 66208 913-648-4728 ADVERTISING Mike Cavanaugh at mike@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 EDITORIAL Elizabeth Cavanaugh elizabeth@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 HOW TO SUBSCRIBE See details on page 23.

SUBSCRIPTION Elizabeth Cavanaugh elizabeth@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 WEBSITE kcgmag.com

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The garden and me

n need of some “me time,” I went to the garden, mostly to quiet the noise in my head. Sometimes it gets crowded in there. And if the crowd is allowed to linger for too long, it gets harder to disperse. Entering the garden, I had no need for a plan. Simply being in the garden is enough, and this time of year, there is plenty to do. That’s what I appreciate about the garden, just show up you’ll discover what to do.

My first thought was to tidy up.

I’ve grown out of my obsession for a manicured landscape. No need to gather leaves and bag them up.

I’m in favor of leaving the generous leafy blanket to protect the garden through winter. However, I do like the appearance of purpose. Yes, let the oak, crabapple, sycamore and maple leaves collect in the garden.

The street and driveway, on the other hand, ought to be cleared of debris.

While in clean-up mode, I’m also making an assessment of the garden. In doing so, I found the Russian sage was partially up and out of the soil. I’m not sure how or why that happens. And I’m a bit embarrassed that I didn’t notice sooner. It has been in the ground for a year, and has shown minimal growth. No matter the reason though (probably the freeze-andthaw phenomenon), I got down on my hands and knees to rectify the situation. I was astonished to find that the soil was hard as a rock, a

clay rock! Even though I had watered the day before. What’s more interesting is that I we amended the soil prior to planting.

While this ignored little plant was receiving long overdue care, I was vocally apologizing for my neglect. “No wonder you’ve not grown so much, you poor thing.”

Yes, plant ladies really talk to their plants.

It seems the majority of my garden time of late has been to dance with the garden hose, and this day was no exception. Our rainfall deficit has required my full attention in watering the garden. Especially because the ‘Mohawk’ viburnum and ‘Alice’ oakleaf hydrangea were planted several months ago, and need extra support while getting established.

Of course, our landscape is full of evergreens and we know all too well their need for moisture heading into the winter months.

The containers on the front porch are empty now. The hostas that filled them have been strategically replanted in the hosta bed, adding to Mr. Gardener’s obsession, I mean collection. {grin} I’ve been slightly resistant to decorate with pumpkins and mums this autumn. Part of that is due to squirrels and their need to devour what they see as food. Another part admittedly can be attributed to my melancholy attitude. When the kids were young, we all looked forward

to the annual trip to the pumpkin patch. And now it seems I haven’t the enthusiasm for fall decór without them. I also know I can decorate and while doing so, fondly remember those days. Honestly, it’s easier to blame the squirrels.

Soon enough I will execute an idea for a holiday container, something more evergreen and less appealing to the squirrels. I’ll let you know how it goes.

In the meantime, as this unusual year winds down, I’m evermore grateful for my garden. Without the space that I consider a sanctuary, without a place to rest my mind, without the refuge for my soul, I would not be the human I am today.

For that I am thankful.

I’ll see you in the garden!

In this issue

November 2020 | kcgmag.com 4 Ask the Experts 7 Beautyberry 8 Save the Songbirds 11 UP CLOSE 12 Midwest Prairie Primer 14 Mitigating Winter Desiccation 17 Plants on Your Plate

18 Kids Ask Dr. Bug 19 Pets and Plants 20 Random Winter Leaves 21 Rose Report 22 Garden Calendar 23 Events 23 Subscribe

About the cover: White Oak (photo by Alan Branhagen) celebrates fall in this rich purplish-red color.

Learn more about this native and others recommended by Alan beginning on page 12.

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November 2020 | kcgmag.com

© 2020, The Scotts Company, LLC. All rights reserved

Fall in love with your garden, all over again.

It’s time to revisit the garden with fall plantings. Don’t forget to nourish with Osmocote® Smart-Release® Plant Food.. It will feed your plants essential nutrients consistently and continuously throughout the autumn season.

When perfection matters, why trust anything else?

The Kansas City Gardener | October 2020

3

Ask the Experts BIG HEDGE, LITTLE BUDGET Question: I would like to plant a long hedge of butterfly bush in my landscape. The problem is my budget cannot support the cost of this many plants. Is there any simple way to multiply the plants I have?

Answer: Gardening can be a budget buster. There are two options, but they may not be the best solution for a quick hedge. The first choice is to dig and divide the planting you have. Butterfly bush is a multi-stem shrub. Each shoot or stem can be split off to start a new plant. Your second choice is to take cuttings from your plant in early June. Cutting is a customary method of propagating. Each cutting should be about six inches long. Remove the lower third of the foliage, dip into a rooting hormone, and place in a high humidity area (like inside a plastic bag) for a month or so. The cuttings should root and develop into a new plant.

Either way, the plants will be small and take time to establish. Hope these ideas help you get your desired hedge.

GYPSUM MYTH BUSTING Question: A friend told me I need to improve my soil by adding gypsum. I have read mixed reviews. What is your take on gypsum for helping to loosen up my heavy clay soil?

Answer: The use of gypsum to improve garden soil has been floating around since I started in Extension back at the dawn of time. The use of gypsum is a garden myth that needs to die. Gypsum, or calcium sulfate, has little or no effect on the structure of heavy clay soil. It works best in clay soils with a sodium content. Outside of helping to remove the sodium from the soil, it does little else. It has no effect on pH or the nutrient holding capacity of the soil. If it did influence the tilth of the soil, it would be short term at best. From all the non-biased research I have seen, there is

Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) are lovely when planted en masse.

Covered PVC piping offers frost protection to extend the harvest.

no quick and easy fix to our heavy clay soil expect working in copious amounts of good old organic matter.

Answer: Disturbing the soil to plant grass seed also stirs up weed seeds. Several weeds, such as dandelion, henbit and chickweed, are a common side effect of overseeding.

Weeds also love our fall rains and cooler temperatures.

Mid-November is an ideal time to stop these weeds in their tracks before erupting into spring flowers.

For established lawns, go ahead and spray them to control. It is a bit more complicated for newly seeded grass. Most broadleaf herbicides require the new grass to be mown at least 2 to 3 times prior to application. The best answer I can give you is to read the label. By the time spring arrives, the new seed has established enough that treatment can be made without harming the turf.

SPINACH PLANTED NOW LIKELY TOO LATE Question: If I planted spinach now, would it survive the winter for an early spring harvest?

Answer: Hmm, that is a tall order. I don’t think this late in the season it would germinate and have a chance to establish before winter.

I have heard of gardeners planting a fall crop, back in September and extending the season by using a floating row cover or low tunnel to extend the harvest into winter.

A floating row cover is a spun poly product. A low tunnel is made from PVC piping curved to form hoops over the bed then covered with the row cover. The material helps trap the warmth of the sun’s energy in the soil. Gardeners using these techniques have been able to harvest cool-season greens for a month or more after the traditional harvest period comes to an end.

HOW TO RID NEW WEEDS IN NEWLY SEEDED LAWN Question: I have started to notice a few weeds popping up in my newly seeded lawn. At what point can I spray them with herbicide?

DENNIS PATTON Horticulture Agent 4

November 2020 | kcgmag.com

CONFUSED ABOUT EAB, MY ASH TREE STILL LIVES Question: I thought you said my ash tree would die from Emerald Ash Borer (EAB). I have seen ash trees all over the area die, but mine still looks pretty good and I have not treated it. Will my tree survive? Could you be wrong about EAB killing trees?

Answer: Here is my question for you. Do you have a green or white ash? Green ash trees have a

yellow fall color and they are the ones at death’s door. Green ash in my neighborhood untreated are all pretty much dead and need to be removed.

I have noticed the white ash, those with purple fall color, are still hanging in there. For some reason, white ash isn’t the first choice on the buffet line for EAB. I noticed early in the season that the white ash trees in my neighborhood are starting to show early signs of EAB. The canopy is thinning and selected limbs appear to be dying.

My hunch is you have a white ash and you have been lucky up to this point. Reports from areas with EAB longer than our area report that ALL ash species are susceptible.

But there could be a random tree or two that does make it through the EAB infestation. Nevertheless, my take is your tree will eventually meet its demise as well.

GROWING APPLE TREES EASY, PRODUCING QUALITY FRUIT A CHALLENGE Question: While walking in my neighborhood, I noticed apple trees appearing to produce quite a few apples. It made me want to plant a tree. Are apples easy to grow?

Answer: This is a loaded question. Apple trees are relatively easy to grow but producing quality fruit is another question. Apple trees require full sun and well-drained soil, much like a flowering crabapple.

The trees seem to grow just fine.

The issue is fruit production.

Left alone, they will set an excellent crop of apples, but the quality is questionable. Apples are prone to insects such as codling moths. Cut into a ripe apple and you might find blackened areas less than appetizing. If you are expecting a pest-free apple, that might be a little harder to achieve without the use of pesticides. But if you are willing to cut around a few blemishes and worm feeding, then an apple tree could be in your future.

Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

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Beautyberry A Vibrant Fall Choice

Callicarpa dichotoma

Callicarpa americana

I

f a plant is bold enough to bear the name “beautyberry,” you better believe it’ll deliver on the promise. And beautyberry does!

This deciduous shrub leafs out in the spring like many other unassuming plants, but its annual show begins in late summer, when other plants are fading and starting to look tattered and tired. Generous clusters of fruit mature into vibrant purple berries that boldly contrast against the typical warmer colors of fall. The berries persist into early winter, where they are enjoyed by birds and other wildlife preparing for the cold months ahead.

I first saw this plant when visiting the United States Botanic Garden in Washington, D.C. during a work trip several years ago. Re-

member those work trips we used to take, going to conferences with hundreds of other people? Anyway, I had a few hours between presentations and the garden was right down the street. It was late October and the first frost had already hit, leaving me with a somewhat limited selection to enjoy at the garden. Among the fire engine red winterberry holly thriving near a small stream, I found the amethyst colored, shiny purple clusters of berries. They demanded attention when contrasted with the fading, straw-colored grass and leaves surrounding the plant. I made a note of its name, shown on a small sign, and looked it up online later.

I’ve since learned that the Callicarpa americana (American

CHELSEA DIDDE RICE Gardening Enthusiast

beautyberry) variety is native to the southeastern United States, including southern Missouri. American beautyberry is a quick growing perennial shrub, reaching five to eight feet tall and almost as wide. It has drooping branches filled with oval shaped leaves and tiny late spring flowers arranged in clusters on the stems between the leaves. These flowers transform into tiny purple or white berries in early fall.

Callicarpa dichotoma, a more compact variety than the American beautyberry, is originally from China and typically grows only three to four feet tall and wide. It is hardy in USDA hardiness zones 5-8 because it has been cultivated to have greater cold tolerance. Both americana and dichotoma varieties

are stunning in the landscape, but since the dichotoma variety has a more neat, compact shape, it’s the variety most often sold as an ornamental shrub at garden centers.

If you’re working with an already established landscape, this is the variety I’d choose.

If you’re interested in adding a beautyberry (or several) to your landscape, care and placement are important. Beautyberry shrubs thrive in either full sun or partial shade. They grow naturally on the edges of wooded areas where the amount and intensity of sunlight can vary. More sunlight will result in higher berry production, but also increase its need for water. Beautyberry is resistant to most disease and pests, which makes it a perfect low maintenance shrub.

If you hope to see the plant in person, you can view some nice examples in Kansas City in front of the Anita B. Gorman Conservation Discovery Center at 4750 Troost Avenue.

I encourage you to think outside of the boxwood and yew when it comes to shrubs, and add a unique plant like beautyberry to your landscape! It will provide deep green color, subtle flowers and vibrant berries that feed the wildlife in your yard.

When Chelsea isn’t at work as a senior communications specialist, she is an avid gardener who enjoys teaching people how easy it can be to garden. You may reach her at chelseadidde@gmail.com.

The Kansas City Gardener | November 2020

7

Save the Songbirds Certify your backyard!

L

ast year in this column I shared the alarming news that one in four birds have disappeared in the past 50 years. If you recall, I shared seven things we can do to possibly stem the tide and maybe even reverse the trend. As a reminder, those actions were: make windows safer to prevent strikes, keep cats indoors, reduce grassy areas in lawns and replace with native plants, avoid pesticides, drink bird friendly coffee to protect breeding grounds in central and south America, reduce and recycle plastics, and watch the birds to provide data for science projects.

I’m hopeful that article was a call to action, and you were able to make strides in implementing at least some of these seven actions.

Now we are making the next call to action for what you can do in your own homes to save the songbirds.

I’m pleased to share that the Wild Birds Unlimited franchise is the Champion Sponsor of the National Wildlife Federation’s “Certified Backyard Habitat” program.

While the program name refers to a backyard, the elements of the certified habitat program can be done in any environment, including apartments and city dwellings.

Unless you do not have access to any outdoor space, everyone can do some part of what it takes to create a wildlife friendly habitat.

There are five elements of the Certified Backyard Habitat.

The first element is providing food. It is recommended to plant native plants whenever possible to provide food. The science for native plants is very compelling as they provide a foundational base of food such as seeds, berries and nectar as well as a host for insects.

Attracting insects is critically important for birds as 96% of our backyard birds rely primarily on insects for their diet. In addition to

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SIMPLE ACTIONS TO H E L P B I R D S Make windows safer Keep cats indoors Reduce lawn, plant natives

Avoid pesticides

Drink shadegrown coffee Protect our planet from plastic

Wood Thrush by Andrew Spencer/Macaulay Library

Learn more at 3billionbirds.org/7-simple-actions planted food sources, you can provide seeds, nuts, suet and nectar as supplemental food in feeders.

The second element, providing a source of fresh water, is one of the easiest to accomplish. Birds need access to clean water for drinking and bathing. A reliable source of fresh water is especially important in winter because birds maintain their core body temperature by fluffing their feathers, and they use water along with their preening oils to clean their feathers to enable proper insulation. Almost any type of shallow water container will work, but choose one that can be

NIK HIREMATH Birding Expert 8

November 2020 | kcgmag.com

Watch birds, share what you see

kept clean easily, and remember to replace the water every two to three days. Also, in the winter, a heated bird bath or placing a heater in an existing birdbath is a great way to ensure the birds have access to water.

Thirdly, provide some type of cover in the form of a variety of plants, bushes, and trees. These provide cover in inclement weather, as well as a place for your birds to socialize and to escape predators.

Fourth, provide a place to raise young. Provide bird houses with essential features such as ventilation, drainage holes, the proper thick-

ness of materials used, the correct portal opening size, and easy access to clean the bird house between broods and at the end of nesting season. If you can, also leave up dead trees in your yard. These snags will provide woodpeckers a place to hollow out a cavity for themselves, and it will then be reused by other cavity nesting birds in the future. Dead trees also provide a great breeding ground for insects, which in turn are an excellent food source for young and old birds nesting in the tree.

The fifth and last element of a certified backyard is the use of sustainable practices for maintaining your landscape and water features.

This effort is primarily directed at eliminating the use of herbicides and pesticides which poison the food web. Instead, rely on native plants which have built-in resistance to pests. Native birds will eat many of the insects gardeners don’t like, reducing the need for pesticides. Manual weeding can also reduce the need for herbicides.

The Certified Backyard Habitat can be applied for easily on-line and requires only a few minutes of your time. There is a nominal charge of $20 for the certification which is used by the National Wildlife Federation to further their efforts to save wildlife and their habitat.

They will also send you a certified wildlife habitat placard which can be place in your yard.

I hope you will join the cause to save the songbirds and do whatever you can of the five elements to create a wildlife friendly habitat. You can always come see us for your questions as well as resources to certify your habitat. You can also access our in store resource center dedicated to saving the songbirds and even pick up a free window decal to show your commitment to the cause.

Local birding experts Nik and Theresa Hiremath own and operate Wild Birds Unlimited of Leawood at 11711 Roe Avenue, Leawood, Kansas. Contact them at 913-491-4887.

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November 2020 | kcgmag.com

Up Close

with Kevin Keilig

COLONIAL GARDENS Manager of Greenhouse and Perennial Departments

THERE ARE GREEN INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS DEDICATED TO THEIR CRAFT, MADE OBVIOUS BY THEIR CAREER CHOICE. WE ARE CURIOUS ABOUT THE INFLUENCES TOWARD THEIR CAREER, AS WELL AS OTHER INTERESTING ASPECTS OF THEIR LIFE. Job Description: Head grower of annuals, combination baskets and containers, buyer of all production plants and materials for growing greenhouse plants. Maintain greenhouse structures.

Head buyer of all finished plants for greenhouse.

Manage quality of plants and inventory for sales maximization. Manage 20+ employees and oversee operations in both departments. Always looking for the next step to the future of my departments to keep raising the bar in the industry of retail garden centers.

Education/Experience: I have a Bachelor of Science in Horticulture and a Minor in Business from Northwest Missouri State University in Maryville, Mo. Graduated in Fall 1991. Of course, the largest percentage of my experience in the retail garden center industry is from learning on the job. I’ve been with Colonial Gardens for a little over three years. Previously, I worked for Heartland Nursery for nearly 37 years. Come spring 2021, it will be 40 years in the industry.

What/who inspired you to work in the green industry: My grandparents were all farmers. My parents were both raised on the farm in central Nebraska, so farming is in my blood. I remember telling my grandpas that I am maintaining the farming heritage of our family–I just farm in pots! When I was growing up, my family had two big gardens totaling nearly a ¼ acre. I loved helping Dad in the garden from an early age. I started mowing yards when I was 9 years old, until my grass allergies got so bad I couldn’t breathe well.

My mom suggested on the way to church that maybe I should apply at Blue Ridge Gardens. It was a small garden center on Blue Ridge Blvd.,

only a few miles from home. So, I applied. The owner, Pete Mistretta, wrote my name and phone number on a sack and said he would call me if he needed me. A few weeks went by and he did not call, so my mom and dad suggested we check in again after church. This time Pete said, “Can you start now?” I went home and changed my clothes and started to work, not knowing at the time it would end up as my lifelong career. I am grateful for the beginning. I was barely 14 years old at the time. On weekdays, I would ride the school bus home, then change into work clothes, then ride the metro bus to work. Needless to say, I was surrounded by people and circumstances that set me on this career path.

Favorite trees, perennials, natives, etc.: I like all plants, but I favor annuals/vegetables first, and perennials second. I love to grow plants from seedlings or seeds to beautiful blooming containers and baskets, or perennials till they reach their full glory. I have a tendency to be impatient, and I want to see results faster than it takes to grow a bush or a tree.

What is your favorite outdoor activity? I love archery, so my favorite time of year is fall into early winter when I can hunt white tail deer, specifically bucks with huge antlers! I also like to fish and play golf. Although lately have not had much time for those activities. I generally like to be outside, not much of an inside person, especially when it is cold. I love the cold, nasty weather, especially when it is hunting season!

colonialgardenskc.com

How has COVID-19 affected your job? Between my departments and the store as a whole, sales have nearly doubled for 2020, compared to 2019.

There have been staffing issues, some related to COVID-19, some not, other normal challenges, like vacations or emergencies. It’s been an extremely challenging and stressful year. With weekly meetings, ideas, plans, adjustments, and updates, we managed well throughout the spring into summer, thanks to a lot of employees giving 110% effort! This is one thing I always keep in mind, without my employees/teammates, I cannot do what I do, and Colonial Gardens can’t be what it can be. I must have them. Throughout this year, we all have come closer together, but not less than six feet {grin} as much as possible, and now we can handle anything! COVID-19 has also brought changes such as curb-side pick up orders. It’s likely we will continue to offer this service. Overall, it has been a tough year, but there have been advances and good ideas to come from it too. Now we just need to keep getting better!

What I do that is gratifying: Colonial Gardens is not a typical garden center. It is a garden center with a purpose and vision. Our purpose is not only to carry quality plants and products that customers need, but also to educate them about plants, soil, the environment, sustainability vs current methods of living, gardening or farming.

Colonial Gardens is seeking to make every home a bit brighter, prettier and healthier. It is rewarding to watch plants that I grow put a smile on someone’s face, knowing the positive impact it will make in their life.

A word of thanks: I am thankful for all the people in my life, beyond the key ones I have mentioned, that helped me along the way to become what I have become, and utilize my God given talents to the fullest.

The Kansas City Gardener | November 2020

11

Midwest Prairie Primer Branhagen names superstar natives for your garden.

D

o you want a garden that makes a real difference?

Choose plants native to the Kansas City region. The rewards will benefit you, your yard, and the environment – from reducing maintenance tasks to attracting earthfriendly pollinators such as native birds, butterflies, and bees. There is plenty of time left in the fall season to plant, so let’s review a few plants for consideration in your landscape.

White Oak Quercus alba (cover photo) becomes a grand shade tree readily reaching 75 feet in height and often broader than tall. Longlived, it provides more sustenance to wildlife and beneficial insects than almost any tree; important now that we evaluate trees by the ecosystem services they provide.

The tree has ornamental appeal at all seasons with often pink fresh leaves in spring, deeply roundlobed leaves all summer, rich purplish-red fall color and a rugged outline for the winter landscape too.

Eastern Redcedar Juniperus virginiana is the only native evergreen tree to the Kansas City region and was actually quite rare at settlement. The tree takes the wild mood swings of the climate without a scratch, providing a super windbreak for us and cover for wildlife on the coldest winter nights. Trees are either male or female, male trees with orangeish cones that form in fall and female trees with blue, berry-like cones that adorn the tree from fall through winter. The cones are relished by wildlife especially many songbirds. Trees are very long lived and at maturity can be very rugged in outline with stunning light, striped bark.

Eastern Redbud Cercis canadensis is a small tree with more character than the most talented actor: no two are alike with mature trees becoming beautiful living sculptures to behold. The raspberry sherbet spring flowers are a breath of freshness in springtime and visited by many a pollinator.

The heart-shaped leaves make one smile all summer until they drop after turning a greenish to saturated yellow. The flowers and young pea pods are also edible, papery mature pods can adorn the tree through winter.

Virginia Creeper Parthenocissus quinquefolia is a climbing vine that can change any blank wall into a cloak of liveliness: It can cling to almost any surface, cooling it down and providing habitat for a plethora of creatures. The vine is audibly abuzz when in flower with all its pollinating visitors and sets itself ablaze early in fall with red fall color that draws attention to its ripe berries eagerly gobbled up by migrating birds.

Leadplant Amorpha fruticosa is a small shrub that will thrive in that sunny dry spot (hell strip) where you thought nothing else will grow.

It would be a common commodity if it were not for it taking a few years to establish – it grows an amazing root system before putting on top growth. The leaves are fine textured and silvery and studded with orange stamened, indigo flowers in midsummer. It blooms on new wood so can be rejuvenated by cutting to the ground and still able to flower.

Butterfly Milkweed Asclepias tuberosa is a perennial wildflower that thrives in full sun and whose vivacious orange flowers welcome summer’s vibrant colors as well as

ALAN BRANHAGEN Natives Expert 12

November 2020 | kcgmag.com

a menagerie of butterflies and other pollinators. As with all milkweeds, the plant is also host to the Monarch butterfly and produces erect seed pods that burst with cottontopped seeds that are carried away with autumn’s breezes. A superior plant for a hot, dry spot in full sun.

Prairie Dropseed Sporobolus heterolepis is a perennial grass that has brought the taste of our prairies into most landscapes. This clumping grass behaves even though it creates a somewhat wild looking tuft of foliage that is crowned by uniquely scented inflorescences in late summer into fall. The fragrance might be an acquired taste just like the prairie garden look, but will create a fond memory of autumn in your garden.

Pennsylvania Sedge Carex pensylvanica is a no mow groundcover that spreads into a turf-like planting rarely reaching much over 9-inches tall. Great for sun or shade, it is an ideal groundcover under most oaks and hickories in well-drained soil and a much better companion to the trees than typical turf. Its springtime flowers look like mini golden torches and the later seeds are relished by birds. If you want the turf look but want something more sustainable, here’s your answer.

Virginia Bluebells Mertensia virginica is perennial wildflower for shade; blooming with stunning pale to almost aqua blue flowers in spring (and on occasion pink or white!), it is an ephemeral that quickly disappears by midsummer. The flowers are great for pollinators from day-flying moths and butterflies to bumblebees and it makes a great companion with other shade-loving perennials like ferns that will fill its space in summer and fall.

The Midwest Native Plant Primer is the perfect tool to get started.

Native plant expert and Powell Gardens alum Alan Branhagen makes adding these superstar plants easier than ever before, with proven advice that every home gardener can follow. His detailed entries, totaling in 225 plant profiles, provide the best plant choices for Kansas growing, while detailing how gardeners can maximize their garden’s potential. With chapters covering design suggestions, growing tips, and the benefits of choosing native plants, it’s everything the Kansas City gardener needs to know to create a beautiful and beneficial garden. Available wherever books are sold.

Alan Branhagen is director of operations at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum and the former director of horticulture at Powell Gardens, Kansas City’s botanical garden. Alan is a naturalist and plantsman with a background in garden design and management; he specializes in botany, butterflies, and birds.

Virginia Bluebells

Leadplant

Prairie Dropseed

Photos by Alan Branhagen.

Eastern Redbud

Butterfly Milkweed

Eastern Redcedar

Pennsylvania Sedge

Virginia Creeper The Kansas City Gardener | November 2020

13

Mitigating the Damage of Winter Desiccation

M

ost gardeners that have grown up in the Midwest are familiar with experiencing four seasons. By instinct, we know that summer can foster harsh conditions that apply extra pressure on some plant material. But are we aware that winter’s cold, dry conditions can cause the same concern as the blistering heat of summer? Let us explore the impact of winter desiccation and how we might mitigate the damage that can ensue.

Turning our attention to the world of plants and applying the definition, if something is desiccated, it means it is void of moisture. Winter brings about the perfect conditions to inflict desiccation damage onto plant material. Evergreen plants are the most vulnerable, but some trees can also suffer winter injury as well.

Winter Injury – Desiccation How does the loss of moisture in the winter cause injury to plants?

We’ve all seen our share of winter injury when we first enter our landscapes in the early spring. Here is what occurs during the winter months that causes the bulk of the injury and desiccation to the plant material.

Winter winds are a particular nemesis during the cold months.

Even though it is winter, evergreen foliage is still losing water through transpiration. During windy days, the plant is losing water at a significant rate. However, if the ground should be frozen or is significantly dry, the plant roots may not be able to supply the moisture level that the foliage requires, resulting in scorched foliage.

Another way outdoor plants are deprived of water is when the water in stems and branches freezes and then is unavailable to the transpiring foliage. The damage will be more significant on the outer foli-

age, which is more exposed to the winds’ drying effect. If the damage occurs on a pine, the needles will turn brown, and eventually, they will drop.

Experts indicate that assessing the extent of winter injury damage and recovery opportunity should occur in mid-May. By mid-May, growth should be occurring and it should be evident whether or not buds and candles will be developing. Noted also is an examination of the buds themselves. If they are brown inside, then they are squandered, and recovery will not occur.

Lastly, we still cannot call victory even if a plant suffering winter injury shows preliminary early spring recovery signs. The plant could be utilizing stored energy reserves initially showing signs of recovery, only to collapse later that spring or summer when the food reserves are depleted. Once the plant suffers winter injury, little can be done other than to protect the plant from further stress by being vigilant to proper watering and protec-

KEN WALLACE Arborist 14

November 2020 | kcgmag.com

tion from disease and insect pests.

Anti-Desiccants to the Rescue!

Typically, most gardeners tend to downplay winter desiccation.

When we identify its presence, we anticipate that the plant will overcome the symptoms, put out new growth, and friends, family, and whoever will happen upon the plant will be delighted with its spring beauty. The truth is, plant desiccation is an injury, and an injury to a plant often has repercussions to the overall health of the plant. Winter injury of stressed or weakened plants are highly susceptible to and are targets for infestation of fungal contamination.

Overall, plant health cannot be stressed enough as a healthy plant provides a substantial barrier to infection. To manage the disease pressure, consider the following list of recommendations that may mitigate winter injury: • Make sure landscape plants receive ample amounts of moisture throughout the win-

ter season.

• Prevent winter damage by using physical barriers.

• Use an anti-desiccant or antitranspirant to prevent winter damage.

Periodic watering of vulnerable plant material will bode well for helping to mitigate winter injury. The primary takeaway is that winter is not benign to plant material, especially to evergreen plants.

Adequate moisture throughout the winter months is critical for the health of the plant. Often winter rains are inadequate, and the moisture content of each snowfall can vary. That’s why we highly advise providing at least an inch of water weekly to vulnerable plant material during the winter months. That would entail utilizing hoses, buckets, watering cans, etc., when temperatures rise to above freezing.

In the realm of physical barriers, burlap is a typical application and acts as a wind break from the wind’s drying conditions. The best and easiest remedy to protect plants from winter desiccation is applying an anti-desiccant or antitranspirant. The products help to reduce a plant’s transpiration and thus protects the foliage from desiccation. This application effectively reduces plants’ water loss, coating the leaves with a thin film or membrane, providing a waterimpermeable barrier that reduces the water loss from transpiration.

Hopefully, we have raised the awareness of the nemesis winter weather can bring to the health of the landscape and the injury it can inflict upon our plant material. The best defense is to be aware of the need for winter moisture and be prepared to protect your landscape plants so they can escape winter without injury and head into the spring sporting the very best of plant health!

Ken Wallace is a certified arborist and four-year professional at Ryan Lawn and Tree. He currently oversees and implements RYAN’s Emerald Ash Borer management program.

Plant Profile:

Echinacea Sombrero® Baja Burgundy 2020 AAS Herbaceous Perennial Winner Sombrero® Baja Burgundy will add a bold accent to sunny gardens with its vibrant, deep violet-red blossoms. The beautiful flower color is without equal among coneflowers and is perfect for cut flowers. After being trialed over three tough winters, the AAS Judges noted this standout’s hardiness, sturdy branching, and floriferous blooming habit.

Birds and pollinators flock to this deer-resistant beauty making it a dual-purpose plant. Gardeners will enjoy prolific blooms from mid-summer until the first frost.

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Fertilize indoor plants with Sure Bloom® to keep them green & healthy all winter long!

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The Kansas City Gardener | November 2020

15

Plant Profile:

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PLANTS ON YOUR PLATE Sweet Potatoes toes, and the term has been used interchangeably ever since. Today the U.S. Department of Agriculture requires labels with the term ‘yam’ to be accompanied by the term ‘sweet potato.’ Unless you specifically search for yams, which are typically found in international markets, you are probably eating sweet potatoes!

When it comes to Thanksgiving dinner, sweet potatoes are a common element of the traditional holiday meal. I must admit though, I wasn’t a fan until I was well into adulthood, primarily because how they were presented to me as a

S

child. Though I typically enjoy sweet things, a squishy vegetable doused in brown sugar and marshmallows wasn’t at the top of my list of favorites. Then, while at a conference in North Carolina (producer of about half of the sweet potatoes in the United States) I had my first baked sweet potato. This was the defining moment when I totally changed my mind about this nutrient powerhouse of a vegetable! If you ‘think’ you don’t like sweet potatoes, consider the recipe below as a compromise on your holiday table. You might just change your mind too!

Twice Baked Stuffed Sweet Potatoes

weet potatoes or yams… which one lands on your holiday menu? Wait…aren’t they the same thing? Though the names are often used interchangeably, the plants are most definitely different. Yams, a member of the lily family, are monocots, and are native to Africa and Asia. Sweet potatoes, a member of the morning glory family, are dicots and are native to Central and South America.

It also bears mentioning that sweet potatoes are not related to Irish potatoes either, which belong to the nightshade family.

Yams grow as a vine, which produces an underground tuber with a tough, hairy/scaly skin and flesh that ranges from white to bright yellow to purple or pink. Yams can range from the size of a normal potato to weighing over 100 pounds!

Yams are also much starchier and drier than most varieties of sweet potatoes. Sweet potatoes produce a root that has a smooth, thin skin with flesh that ranges in color from white to orange, red, purple, or brown. Sweet potatoes tend to be more ‘normal’ in size, though I have seen friends brag on 10

pound-ers at harvest!

Sweet potato varieties are classified as either ‘firm’ or ‘soft’. Firm sweet potatoes remain firm when cooked and are dry and crumbly, much like a standard baking potato.

Soft varieties become more soft, moist, and sweet upon cooking.

Freshly harvested sweet potatoes are often referred to as “green” potatoes and are best to go through a curing process to allow the starches to break down into sugar. Curing happens by holding them for about 10 days at 80-85 degrees F with 85-90 percent humidity with good air circulation, or at lower temperatures of 65-75 degrees F for two to three weeks. Both firm and soft varieties are a rich source of Vitamin A, potassium, magnesium and fiber, all of which are beneficial for heart health and blood pressure management.

So, why the naming dilemma?

According to the Library of Congress and the Louisiana State University Ag Center, the confusion came with the introduction of soft varieties. Southern growers would call the softer potatoes ‘yams’ to differentiate from the firm pota-

DENISE SULLIVAN Nutrition Ninja

MAKES 8 SERVINGS INGREDIENTS 4 large sweet potatoes, scrubbed ¼ cup fresh orange juice 3 teaspoons butter or margarine, melted 1 tablespoon brown sugar ¼ teaspoon nutmeg ¼ teaspoon cinnamon 2 tablespoons chopped pecans Before cooking, thoroughly wash hands and work surfaces. Gather all ingredients.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. With a fork, prick holes in sweet potatoes and bake for 45-60 minutes or until tender. Remove from oven and cool slightly for better handling. Once cooled, slice each potato in half. Scoop out most of the potato, leaving approximately 1/4 inch around the skin. Place potato pulp in mixing bowl with orange juice, brown sugar, 2 teaspoons butter/margarine, nutmeg and cinnamon. Whip until smooth. Place potato skins into a 13-inchby-9-inch baking pan and fill with whipped potato mixture. Set aside. In nonstick frying pan, add remaining 1 teaspoon margarine and pecans, sauté until toasted. Sprinkle potatoes evenly with pecans. Bake an additional 15 to 20 minutes until thoroughly heated.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING Calories: 86, Total Fat: 2.7g, Saturated Fat: .4g, Sodium: 33mg, Carbohydrates: 14.5g, Fiber: 10.2g, Protein: 1.4g, Vitamin A: 11,090 IU Recipe from LSU Ag Center.

Denise Sullivan (@MUExtJacksonCo) is a Nutrition and Health Education Specialist for MU Extension in Jackson County. For research based nutrition and food safety information and programs, call 816-4825850 or visit https://extension2.missouri.edu/.tasty side dish for a late-summer picnic.

The Kansas City Gardener | November 2020

17

Kids Ask Dr. Bug

Photo by Franco Patrizia.

about the curious things found in the garden

The hair on a bee is correctly called setae.

Dragonfly wings move independently of one another and can beat 20-45 times per second.

Why do bugs eat the plants in my garden? Ellen, 8 Insects need to eat, and many eat things such as other insects or spiders. However, as you say, some insects eat the same things we do, such as the plants in your garden.

This year I grew squash and had to compete with squash bugs. They are great at hiding, but I knew they were there because I found their eggs on the underside of the plants’ leaves. These bugs fed on the leaves, stems, and sometimes the fruit, and eventually killed the plants. I also found a tobacco hornworm eating my tomato plants, but because the adult moth will grow into a pollinator, and I had plenty of tomatoes, I didn’t mind sharing my crop. It can be frustrating when insects eat the same foods we want. Sometimes we need to manage pests so we have enough food

to eat, and sometimes we can grow enough to share.

How many wings does a dragonfly have? Aya, 15 Most insects have four wings, and dragonflies are no exception.

Their hind wings are slightly wider than their forewings. Their wings move independently of one another and can beat 20-45 times per second. Dragonflies are exceptional flyers and fantastic predators who capture their prey in the air. They can spin 180 degrees while flying. They can hover, fly backward, straight up or straight down. They are known for their aerial acrobatics! Scan the QR code or use this link (https:// youtu.be/cJ-

TAMRA REALL Horticulture Specialist 18

November 2020 | kcgmag.com

JowVxiaRU) to learn more about how dragonflies fly and how they are inspiring new technology.

How do dragonflies stay focused on one thing with so many eyes? Aiden, 14 Insects have two different kinds of eyes. Ocelli are simple eyes on the top of the head that allow an insect to see light and dark. Ommatidia are the individual lenses that make up insects’ compound eyes and they work together to produce a single image. More ommatidia mean a clearer image.

In addition to three ocelli, dragonflies have around 30,000 ommatidia. In comparison, house flies have 3,000 ommatidia. Dragonflies can see 360 degrees so good luck sneaking up on them! Dragonflies see color, too, even better than we do! Because they only

A squash bug hides in the garden. capture prey on the wing, sight is very important. These large eyes help them to capture 90-95 percent of the insects they hunt while flying at speeds of 20-35 miles per hour.

If bees have hair, why aren’t they mammals? Soren, 14 Mammal species have hair and produce milk. The hair-like structures on bees, and other insects, are more correctly called setae. Setae are hollow and do many different things for insects, such as help insects feel things around them, taste, smell, sense the temperature, and even walk on water. The setae on bees are special – it is branched or feathery so that pollen grains stick to the hairs. This makes it possible for the bees to collect pollen to feed their colony and pollinate flowers in the process.

Dr. Tamra Reall (@MUExtBugN Garden) is the horticulture specialist for MU Extension in Jackson County.

For free, research-based gardening tips, call 816-833-TREE (8733), email mggkc.hotline@gmail.com, or visit www.extension2.missouri.edu.

The tradition continues as FNBO, Westlake Ace Hardware, and Sarin Energy Solutions present the

21st Annual Luminary Walk

Kick-off the holiday season with a family walk through the lights at the Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens.

D

uring the three weekends following Thanksgiving, take a stroll along the lit pathways to see intricate Gnome and Fairy Villages, serene winter woods by candlelight, and the colorful Children’s Garden. Enjoy musical performances in four different locations and a horse-drawn wagon ride through the forest, while the quiet woods are lit with candles lining the walkways. The gardens are bright with color. Trees, buildings, and bridges are all part of the show, with thousands of lights aglow.

For a quieter “Date Night” experience, a Candlelight Stroll will be held Thursday, December 3rd.

The Luminary Walk is the major fundraiser for the Friends of the Arboretum (FOTA). All proceeds benefit the Arboretum.

Pets & Plants Dracaena

By Phil Roudebush, DVM, DACVIM

D

racaena species, especially red-marginated dracaena (D. marginata), are attractive, stiff-leaved, evergreen plants with sword-like leaves. There are over a hundred different species with most native to Africa and southern Asia.

Many species of Dracaena are grown as low-maintenance houseplants due to their tolerance of lower light, a wide range of indoor temperatures and sparse watering.

Other common names include corn plant, cornstalk plant, ribbon plant, Spanish dagger and (Madagascar) dragon tree.

These plants can be potentially poisonous to both dogs and cats, although cats seem to prefer chewing on the leaves. In a recent review of poisonous events involving dogs and cats in the United States, ingestion of plant material from dracaena specimens was the second most common plant poisoning in cats.

The toxic chemicals in the leaves are called saponins and they

cause direct irritation of tissues they contact.

Clinical signs in both cats and dogs include vomiting, occasionally with blood, appetite loss, abdominal pain, excessive drooling, weakness and dilated pupils (cats only). These signs can begin within thirty minutes of eating the plant.

Treatment includes purging plant material from the body, rinsing the mouth vigorously with water and symptomatic or supportive care.

Prognosis is good beyond the obvious gastrointestinal discomfort.

Enjoy these distinctive houseplants but be especially careful if there are cats in the household.

Phil Roudebush is a retired veterinarian and specialist in small animal internal medicine.

He was an Extension Master Gardener in Shawnee County, Kansas before moving to western North Carolina five years ago, where he is an Extension Master Gardener in Buncombe County. He can be reached at philroudebush@gmail.com.

For the Safety of All • All tickets are date and time-specific.

• The number of tickets sold for entry within half-hour timeframes is limited, allowing for social distancing between families.

• Expanded operating hours - 4:30 to 10:00 p.m. (1½ hours longer than previous years).

• To keep Santa safe, he will not be with us this year.

• The visitor center will not be open for refreshments.

• To operate with fewer volunteers, trains in the train garden will not be running, and portions of the candlelit path will be switched to electric lights.

To protect all guests, as well as our volunteers, masks are required.

Schedule 4:30 – 10:00 each night (Last admittance is 9:00.)

Friday, November 27, 2020 Saturday, November 28, 2020 Friday, December 4, 2020 Saturday, December 5, 2020 Friday, December 11, 2020 Saturday, December 12, 2020 $14.00 per person; free for age 5 and under $2.00 discount for members of Friends of the Arboretum when purchased online with promo code.

Free Parking No Pets Ticket purchase, refund and exchange policy, and cancellation due to weather details are found at https://artsandrec-op.org/arboretum/ luminary-walk/. Also found here is further information on the Candlelight Stroll on Thursday, December 3rd.

Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens 8909 W. 179th St. Overland Park KS 66013 The Kansas City Gardener | November 2020

19

Photos by Scott Woodbury.

Black gum tree

I

Random Winter Leaves

n fall and early winter, wet, fallen sycamore leaves produce a fragrance similar to bay rum or bay leaves. Since it isn’t bottled and available at my local drugstore, I head for a river bottom in search of the leaves and their lovely smell.

It is more noticeable when the leaf litter is damp or wet. It’s a subtle odor, though unmistakable when you discover it. Like a fresh humid-air-smell from the Gulf Coast, blown northward on a warm spring breeze in Missouri. Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis) grows incredibly fast (2 to 3 feet per year) and are long-lived. They can uptake huge amounts of water from saturated soils in poorly drained areas of your property. They also have very showy bright white and tancamo bark when mature.

Kentucky coffee tree (Gymnocladus dioicus) is full of contradictions. It was once awarded “Best Tree for Solar Benefit” by the American Society of Landscape Architects because its leaves cast

the greatest amount of shade in summer, and its stems cast the least amount of shade in winter. The result comes in home energy cost savings, because when a tree (or trees) are planted on the south and/ or west side of the house (within 15 feet), the building gets shaded and cooled from summer sun and bathed in warm winter rays. Its stems are oddly coarse in texture, having half the stems and branches of a maple tree, hence more sunlight passes through its canopy in winter. On the other hand, its leaves are massive and bipinnately compound, which means that its leaflets (which are many and tiny) are arranged on a series of twigs (called petioles) that branch two times into an intricate arrangement. The overall lacey, leaf structure can measure two-feet wide and long. Fall color is bright yellow and the leaflets are so tiny

SCOTT WOODBURY Horticulturist 20

November 2020 | kcgmag.com

that they somewhat disappear in the landscape, though the massive 15inch petioles need to be raked up.

Thornless honey-locust (Gleditsia triocanthos f. inermis) has similar tiny leaflets that disappear in planting beds.

I often hear that oaks are a poor choice near parking areas and houses because the acorns are too big and messy. But chinquapin oak acorns are tiny—smaller than a dime—and its leaves are the smallest of all the oaks in the northern Ozarks. Its fine textured leaves and small acorns are easy to sweep up on paving and they virtually disappear in planting beds while providing litter (if left in beds as mulch) for over-wintering butterflies and moths. Also, chinquapin oak (Quercus muhlenbergii) grows quickly and tolerates high pH (low acidity) soil that occurs near concrete and limestone gravel (sidewalks, driveways, and foundations).

Black gum (Nyssa sylvatica) has the best burgundy, yellow, and orange fall color. Its small leaves also sift into planting areas without the need for raking and therefore support wildlife. It produces many purple berries that cedar waxwings gorge on from October through early December. They start feeding at the top and methodically work their way down, calling cee-cee-cee as they pick the tree clean.

Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua) gets confused with black gum. It also has fantastic redorange fall color, but has five-lobed leaves and is shunned by gardeners who dread the messy gum balls. I had to rake up gum balls before my own wedding reception to keep people from turning their ankles. There is a fruitless cultivar of sweetgum called ‘Rotundiloba’ that has rounded leaf lobes and burgundy fall color. It is slow-growing, upright, and fits into small garden spaces better than the straight species.

Horticulturist Scott Woodbury is the Curator of the Whitmore Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve in Gray Summit, MO, where he has worked with native plant propagation, design, and education for 28 years, and which is supported by the Missouri Dept. of Conservation. He also is an advisor to the Missouri Prairie Foundation’s Grow Native! program.

Rose Report winterizing roses

F

Kentucky coffee tree

Sweetgum ‘Rotundiloba’ When I was younger, I cut a big black walnut tree down thinking it was dead though it was very much alive. You see, black walnuts (Juglans nigra) lose their leaves early.

In dry years, leaves start coming down in late August and trees are leafless by September. It must have been a dry year. To be honest, I didn’t feel entirely bad since my friend convinced me it was dead, it was on his property, and he split and burned the wood in his wood stove that winter. That said, I learned my lesson. Red buckeye (Aesculus pavia) and Ohio buckeye (Aesculus glabra) lose their leaves in late summer or early fall and so can serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea) and rusty blackhaw viburnum (Viburnum rufidulum).

Young witchazels (Hamamelus veralis and H. virginica) at times have a quality that some may find unattractive. The dried winter leaves stick to the stems through its bloom period (November through February), hiding the winter flowers. This normally happens on young trees (less than 5 to 7 years old) but sometimes lasts for over a decade. Due to genetic diversity, some seedlings are more prone to this condition than others. This also occurs on oak seedlings during a period of juvenile vigor, when plants are growing rapidly. Most oaks out-

grow this before they turn ten, but not all. However, the persistent dried leaves on witchazel and young oaks do provide a privacy screen, which is an attractive quality.

Speaking of leaf challenges, arrowwood viburnum (Viburnum dentatum) leaves smell like old gym socks when it rains. Unless you like this odor, plant them as far away from your nose as possible.

They have nice burgundy and/or pinkish fall color, dense stems that birds prefer to nest in, and clusters of purple berries that birds devour.

When you pry money out of your pocket to purchase this plant, remind yourself how important plant diversity is for attracting wildlife and consider the benefits of keeping fallen leaves in garden beds.

Many butterfly, moth, and bee species overwinter in or beneath fallen leaf litter and will die if you rake and remove the leaves. Consider raking fifty percent fewer leaves this year in your garden beds and planting smaller-leaved native tree species that blend in where leaves float down into planting beds.

There are so many different ways to garden beautifully while promoting wildlife. It will take all of them to turn around the current wildlife decline occurring in our neighborhoods. Garden with purpose; make a difference today!

or many years I have been teaching a class on winterizing roses, and I am always happy to see the enthusiasm that gardeners have for learning how to care for their roses in winter.

Many new gardeners diligently take notes ensuring their roses success and many of the seasoned gardeners listen and watch for new or updated information.

The most asked question is, “when do I prune my roses back and when do I mulch them for the winter?” I actually start winterizing in mid-October by defoliating two to three feet high on the rose bush, this slows down the rose.

Don’t worry if you didn’t defoliate the rose in mid-October. You can do this step when you prune your roses later in November, as it will still be helpful for your rose and will make cleanup in the spring much easier.

I recommend pruning your roses in mid-November cutting the roses down to 24”-30”. This keeps your roses from whipping in the wind, which causes physical damage to the roots and canes. I also rake and pick up all the leaves and rose clippings from the bed. Next I spray a contact fungicide on the soil and the rose canes to keep overwintering black spot spores under control. If you do not use fungicides in your garden you can still get good results by removing all leaves and cuttings from your beds.

Mulching roses should be started mid-November or around Thanksgiving. Delaying mulching until this time will ensure you keep the cold in the soil. You may wonder why I want the soil cold.

The answer is to protect the rose from the alternate freezing and thawing during a normal winter and from desiccation (loss of moisture from canes and roots).

For the last two years I have been using compost to mulch my roses and I mound this up around 6-8 inches at the base of the rose.

Other mulches such as wood mulch or leaves are suitable for mulching roses as well. If you decide to mulch with leaves I would recommend using some type of fence (chicken wire or cardboard boxes) around your roses to keep the leaves from blowing away.

During the winter, make sure to keep an eye on how much precipitation the garden receives.

Water your roses if we have a dry winter, since dry conditions can be very detrimental to a rose’s winter survival.

Climbing roses in our area should be tied to a structure so they do not whip in the wind but do not cut them back, as some varieties will bloom on second year wood. You can put straw and burlap around the canes on your climbing roses for extra protection, but I have found most years this is not necessary.

Miniature roses do not need as much protection as larger roses, so if you rake several inches of leaves into the rose or use a small mound of compost for protection, that will suffice.

Old roses usually don’t need winter protection at all and you don’t have to prune them.

Tree roses will need to be brought in the garage and watered throughout the winter until next spring.

If you would like to take my class on winterizing roses this year, you can go anytime to YouTube and look up Judy Penner. I have a video on winterizing roses and if you would like to be notified on future videos just like and subscribe to my channel.

Remember to Stop and Smell the Roses!

JUDY PENNER Expert Rosarian

Judy Penner is Expert Rosarian at Loose Park, Kansas City, Missouri.

You may reach her at judyssecret gardens@gmail.com.

The Kansas City Gardener | November 2020

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GARDEN CALENDAR November list of what to do in the garden.

LAWN

• Rake fallen leaves from the lawn to prevent winter suffocation.

• Fertilize bluegrass and tall fescue with a high nitrogen fertilizer to promote root development and early spring green-up.

• Provide turf with ample moisture as it goes into winter.

• Control dandelions, henbit and chickweed with a broadleaf herbicide.

• Mow as needed into the fall at 3 inches.

• Drain gas or add a stabilizer to lawn mower engine for winter storage.

• Get a jump on spring by repairing equipment this fall.

TREES AND SHRUBS

VEGETABLES AND FRUITS

• Sort apples in storage, remove spoiled fruit.

• Clean and remove fallen fruit from around trees to reduce insects and disease next year.

• Mulch strawberries after several hard freezes.

• Remove all debris from the garden.

• Take a soil test and make needed adjustments this fall.

• Till garden soil and add organic matter.

• Review garden notes about successes and failures in the garden.

• Start planning for next year.

FLOWERS

• Water newly planted trees and shrubs.

• Provide ample moisture to evergreens, whether young or old, during winter.

• Protect young plants from rabbit damage by wrapping or making a wire screen.

• Plant new trees and shrubs.

• Rake leaves.

• Check mulch layers and replace.

• Prune dead or hazardous limbs.

• Do not prune spring flowering trees and shrubs until after bloom.

• Clean up rose beds to help reduce disease next season.

• Mulch hybrid tea roses for winter.

• Remove frost killed annuals.

• Till annual flower beds and add organic matter to improve soil tilth.

• Continue to plant spring flowering bulbs.

• Dig and store tender bulbs, cannas, gladiolus and others in a cool, dry area.

• Cut back tall hybrid tea rose canes to 24 inches to prevent winter breakage.

• Mulch perennials after several hard freezes.

HOUSEPLANTS

• Check plants for insects such as aphids and spider mites.

• Keep plants away from heat vents and cold drafts.

• Locate plants away from windows about one foot to protect from the winter cold.

• Reduce or stop fertilizing until spring.

• Water as needed and avoid letting roots stand in water.

• Rinse to remove dust from leaves.

• Continue dark treatment of poinsettias for holiday re-blooming.

• Plant and water amaryllis bulbs for Christmas bloom.

MISCELLANEOUS

• Clean and oil garden tools, sprayers and other equipment for winter storage.

• Drain garden hoses and sprinklers and store indoors for increased life.

• Use fall leaves to start a compost pile.

• Turn compost pile to hasten breakdown.

• Start a garden wish list for the holidays.

MY GARDEN (Use this space to list additional tasks to accomplish in your garden.)

• • • •

Johnson County K-State Research and Extension recommends environmentally-friendly gardening practices. This starts by identifying and monitoring problems. Cultural practices and controls are the best approach for a healthy garden. If needed, use physical, biological or chemical controls. Always consider the least toxic approach first. Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

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November 2020 | kcgmag.com

Garden Events Maximizing Garden Space and Extending the Season Sat, Nov 7, 10a-noon; at Johnson County Community College, 12345 College Blvd, Overland Park, KS. Want more out of your existing vegetable garden, or are you a beginner planning to start a vegetable garden next year? Attend this course to learn how to increase your harvests using techniques such as succession planting and seasonal planting. This course is all about making the most of the space you have whether it be container gardening, raised bed gardening or a backyard plot. Tips will be provided to help you plan now for your future seed and plant purchases. The goal is for you to walk away with a planting schedule that will help you get the most out of your veggie garden next year. Fee: $29. To enroll go to https://ce.jccc.edu or call 913-469-2323.

Festival of Lights: Enchantment November 13, 2020–January 3, 2021 Thursday–Sunday | 4–10 p.m.

Festival of Lights will be closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day. Additional days (December 21-23 and December 28-30) have been added to accommodate seasonal holidays.

Festival of Lights: Enchantment, illuminated by Evergy, returns to Powell Gardens for its fourth year. Festival goers will walk a mile-long path spread out over 25 acres through the Gardens featuring a variety of immersive light displays. (The path is ADA compliant, and shorter options are available. Tram rides from the Missouri Barn to the Visitor Center will be available 5-10 p.m.)

More than 20 miles of holiday lights comprise installations that highlight the natural forms of Powell Gardens’ tree collection, show off the exceptional architecture and landscape design of the Gardens, and transport visitors to enchanted wonderlands, with plenty of Instagram and holiday card-worthy photo stops along the way. Don’t miss the brand new Enchanted Tiki Bar and Santa’s Workshop!

Lyric Opera of Kansas City Soundscapes November 21 | 6 p.m., 7 p.m., and 8 p.m.

Included with festival admission | Members receive free admission Artists from the Lyric Opera of Kansas City will present a concert from as part of Soundscapes in the City, a series of short, outdoor concerts featuring hits from opera and musical theatre.

Work & Learn: Holiday Container Design November 21 | 1–4 p.m. $55 | Members receive 10% off Join David Breedlove, Powell Gardens’ seasonal display specialist, to gather ideas to spruce up your pots and add winter interest to your seasonal displays using fresh greenery, other natural materials, ribbons, and more. Each participant will create a fiber pot container that can be displayed indoors or out and enjoy a complementary festive adult beverage while they work. Space is limited. Register by November 14th.

Still True Today!

“In these hectic high-speed days of political speeches, world unrest and jet propulsion, don’t you get a lot of satisfaction out of your garden? After a trying day at work and with my blood pressure up several points because of material shortages, high prices, or other present day complications, the quickest and surest way for me to find relaxation and forget my troubles is to put on old clothes and get out in the garden.

There I find a calm assurance that the world is still O.K. – in the feel of the soil and the beauty of the flowers. In every sprouting seed and each unfolding bud there is a promise of something new – something better; a better day – a better world.”

When George E. Lenington, one of the founders of the Mo-Kan Daylily Society, was President of the national Hemerocallis Society in 1948-1949, he wrote this in an open letter to members. How relevant and meaningful his words are even 72 years later!

Daylily ‘Going Places’; Lenington-G.; 1981

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More events are posted on our website, KCGMAG.com, click on “Events.” Promote club meetings, classes, and other gardening events for FREE! Send details to: elizabeth@kcgmag.com. Deadline for publishing in the December issue is November 5.

Please enclose your check payable to The Kansas City Gardener and mail with this form to: P.O. Box 8725, Prairie Village, KS 66208 The Kansas City Gardener is published monthly Jan. through Dec.

The Kansas City Gardener | November 2020

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November 2020 | kcgmag.com