KCG 08Aug20

The Kansas City

GARD GA RDENER ENER A Monthly Guide to Successful Gardening

August 2020

Ornamental Grasses

Potpourri of Rose Facts Know What’s Below, Call Before You Dig Milkweeds’ Deadly Encounters Chlorosis 101: Drought Stress or Vitamin Deficiency?

editor’s notes

The Kansas City

GARDENER A Monthly Guide to Successful Gardening

Garden journal entry

Independently owned and operated since 1996 Publisher Michael Cavanaugh Editor Elizabeth Cavanaugh Contributors Nik and Theresa Hiremath Dane Kietzman Lenora Larson Dennis Patton Judy Penner Tamra Reall Chelsea Didde Rice Denise Sullivan Distribution Publishers Delivery Solutions, Inc.

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L

ast month, I mentioned not having purchased any new plant material for the landscape.

Well, I barely finished writing that sentence when Mr. Gardener and I were discussing various options for the planting area behind the sitting wall of the patio.

When we first built the patio, my original idea was to create a butterfly garden. The space is mostly sunny and would be filled with plants to attract pollinators.

Unfortunately, this area has been troublesome. I can’t seem to keep anything alive for more than one season. Maybe it’s the soil, or plant selection, or just maybe I can blame the merciless weather. No matter the difficulty, it was time to abandon the dream of winged beauties.

My consolation is admitting the success in the front perennial garden where butterflies perform their summertime dance. Perhaps that is the best outcome.

We turned our attention to plants that we know perform well in our landscape–viburnum and oakleaf hydrangea. There is a wide variety of viburnum, so we took the opportunity to try Burkwood Viburnum ‘Mohawk’. When reading up on this shrub, there are several characteristics of interest.

Right off the bat, Mohawk is attractive to butterflies, hummingbirds, and birds. Eureka! My dream is alive again.

Full sun or part shade, it tolerates a wide range of soil types. It is recommended to plant this viburnum near high traffic areas to enjoy its wonderful fragrance. More plus points.

Compact, upright semi-evergreen, and attractive fall color. Red flower buds open to white snowballs in spring. Then red-to-black berries in summer. All the things I love about viburnum.

The other shrub we planted is ‘Alice’ Oakleaf hydrangea. We are familiar with how handsome this hydrangea is in our landscape currently. The large stately presence and profusion of stunning white blooms is impactful. An added bonus, foliage turns brilliant crimson in fall. It was an easy choice to plant more Alice.

After planting seven of each, it was my job to water–one of my favorite tasks. Since I’m the detail gal, I gladly hand water and deliver a welcome message to each. You talk to your plants, right?

This was when I couldn’t help notice the overpowering nature of another viburnum in the garden.

The ‘Allegheny’ viburnum hedge has grown well beyond its advertised 10 feet. My guess it is higher than 14 feet in some spots. With a ladder and loppers, it was time to get after this overdue chore. Now my neighbor can breathe easier knowing someone maintains that out-of-control hedge.

Lastly, I thank all who sent their recommendations in solving my squirrel quandary. There is nothing better than advice from gardeners with experience. I appreciate you!

I’ll see you in the garden!

In this issue August 2020 • Vol. 24 No. 8 Kids Ask Dr. Bug ...................... 4 Ask the Experts ........................ 6 Potpourri of Rose Facts ............. 8 Call Before You Dig ................. 9 Ornamental Grasses ................ 10 Plants on Your Plate: Peppers .... 12 Now, that’s hot! ....................... 13

6

Chlorosis 101 ......................... 14 Milkweeds’ Deadly Encounters .. 16 Powell Gardens Events ............. 17 Garden Calendar .................... 18 Professional’s Corner ............... 19 Hotlines .................................. 19 Subscribe ................................ 19

about the cover ...

Ornamental grasses like this Northwind Switch Grass provide a much needed change in leaf texture and an opportunity for motion. See more of Chelsea Didde Rice’s favorites beginning on page 10.

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The Kansas City Gardener | June 2016

3

Kids Ask Dr. Bug Are daddy longlegs spiders? Ava, 8 Depending on what part of the world you live in, there are a few critters that are considered daddy long legs: some cellar spiders, harvestmen, crane flies, and even a flower in western Australia are given the common name daddy longlegs. Here in the United States, when someone says daddy longlegs, they are typically talking about harvestmen, also known as harvesters and Opiliones. While harvesters are arachnids and have eight legs like spiders, they are not spiders. In fact, they are more closely related to mites or scorpions than spiders.

Harvesters have a single body part, called a cephalothorax that includes their head, with one pair of eyes.

Spiders also have a cephalothorax with a clearly separate head and three to four pairs of eyes.

Photo by BlueSeaShell.

Home to more than plants, kids ask DR. TAMRA REALL about the curious things found in the garden.

Harvester Harvesters are omnivores, eating small insects, plants and fungi.

Can an ant hurt me? Sophia, 10 There are more than 450 species of ants in the U.S.! Most of these will not hurt you. Ants can bite and some can sting, although most are too small to actually bite a human and the sting is barely felt.

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However, a couple of common species here in Missouri, acrobat ants and pavement ants, that can sting us. Fortunately, we don’t have fire ants or harvester ants in the KC region—their sting is much worse.

What does a bee see? William, 12 Bee eyes are very different from our eyes. First of all, they have two compound eyes which would be like tons of tiny eyes, called receptors, combined in one. Each of those receptors can see brightness and color. Bees have three more simple eyes on the tops of their head called ocelli.

Compound eyes see ultraviolet Scan the code to see a (UV) lightwaves. flower the way a bee may see it!

Bees can’t see the color red, but they can easily see light and dark, edges, and shapes. Bees need to find pollen and nectar from flow-

ers and some flowers help them out by providing “landing guides” that point to the food. And guess what?! These special patterns are only seen in UV! Go to this website, or scan the QR code, to see an example: http://www.naturfotograf.com/UV_GERA_SYL.html We found a murder hornet! Can it hurt me? Ben, 12 The Asian giant hornet, sometimes called the “murder hornet,” has only been found in Washington state and nowhere else in the United States. Importantly, the two hornets found were dead. So, the hornet you found isn’t likely an Asian giant hornet. Please send me a picture (reallt@missouri.edu) and I will identify the insect you found.

Many bees and wasps can sting, but they don’t usually do so unless they feel threatened, such as if you get too close to their nest. One of the best things you can do to overcome the scary hype around this insect is to learn more about our bees and wasps. There are many helpful insects with similar colors, and we need to protect them.

Dr. Tamra Reall (@MUExtBugN Garden) is the new horticulture specialist for MU Extension in Jackson County. For free, researchbased gardening tips, call 816833-TREE (8733), email mggkc. hotline@gmail.com, or visit www. extension2.missouri.edu.

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The Kansas City Gardener | August 2020

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Ask the Experts Gardeners have plenty of questions about soil and plant issues, DENNIS PATTON answers a few of them here.

HOW TO CONTROL SPIDER MITES Question: I have an outbreak of spider mites on several of my plants, from tomatoes to shrubs. I am having a difficult time controlling them. Have any suggestions?

Answer: Spider mites are extremely difficult to control as traditional insecticides are not effective. In fact, applying an insecticide could make the mite population worse as they kill off the mites’ natural predators. Unlike insects with six legs, mites are eight-legged creatures. Miticides targeted to kill mite infestations are not widely available to the homeowner over the counter. Getting the upper hand on mites requires you to be more creative.

Mites feed with sucking mouthparts on the lower side of the leaf.

The result is a chlorotic, bronzish

appearance to the foliage. This makes control more difficult as treatment must hit the mite. The top of the leaf protects the mites when treating. You must get up under the leaf.

Options are limited. The best recommendations maybe a strong spray of water. A forceful stream of water targeted under the leaf every other day or so for a week is probably the best option. Horticulture oils are another option. Personally, I would go the water route as it is easier.

JAPANESE BEETLES HARD TO BEAT Question: I hate Japanese beetles. I treated my lawn, and I still had a massive attack. Why didn’t this help and what can I do for next year?

Answer: Although Japanese beetles start in the grub stage, grub

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August 2020 | kcgmag.com

Fighting Japanese beetles with grub control products only tackles part of the population.

New Guinea impatiens are at their best when grown in containers.

control products have little or no effect on the number of adult beetles in your yard. This is because the adults fly in from miles away.

When applied at the appropriate time, late May through June, grub control products are highly effective in controlling the Japanese beetle larvae in your lawn. That is one of the reasons we see little damage to turf from Japanese beetles. The adults fly great distances to feed and mate, leaving your plants on the menu. Most adults come from so-called waste areas, roadside, pastures, open grassy areas. There is no way to reduce this population, leaving you to battle the adults. The bottom line, if you are applying grub control

for the reason of decreasing the feeding, you are fighting a losing battle.

NEW GUINEA IMPATIENS SO DISAPPOINTING Question: Help, my planting of New Guinea impatiens wilted and died. What did I do wrong?

Answer: It has been a few months (hopefully) since I have stepped on some gardener’s toes.

I guess it is time. My experience with New Guinea impatiens is they are a hassle to grow in our climate.

Before you start emailing photos to me of your beautiful plantings, remember this is my experience.

New Guinea impatiens should only be used in containers. They

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dislike our heavy clay soils and are highly susceptible to root rots.

My hunch is if your plants were in the ground with the May rains and tight clay soil, they died from root rots. Making matters worse is this plant has no drought tolerance.

Skip a little extra water, and they wilt and die. This plant should only be grown in containers with highquality potting soil.

But wait, there is more! Even in containers, this plant does not always thrive. It is a full sun-loving plant but cannot tolerate hot soil conditions. On a sunny day, even with good moisture, they wilt, so you water more and increase the chance of root rots. As you can see, I am not a fan. My best recommendation is skipping this plant.

An alternative with a similar look is Sunpatiens, which tend to be much more tolerant of our weather and soils.

WINTER CARE OF DAHLIAS Question: I have recently found the joy of growing dahlias. They can be a little fussy to grow, but the flowers are rewarding. I read conflicting information about winter care. Do a dig and store them for next year or leave in the ground?

Answer: This is a great question. Dahlias, cannas and gladiolus have long been referred to as a tender bulb. That means under our normal winter conditions, they will be winterkilled. Thus, they need to be dug and stored during the winter months.

But over the last 10 to 20 years, our winters have warmed, resulting in changing from hardiness zone 5 to 6. Oftentimes these bulbs can survive the winter in ground.

Notice I used the term “oftentimes.” Mild winters and in more protected locations allow dahlias

and the other bulbs (tubers) to get thru to spring. My recommendation is to dig and store as we never know whether the soil will freeze hard and deep enough to kill the tubers. If you don’t care about the plants, leave them in the ground and if they die, well, purchase new ones next spring.

BENEFITS OF BARE GROUND Question: Recently, you wrote an article in the Kansas City Star about the importance of mulching the landscape. I was discouraged that your article showed little regard for the importance of bare ground, which is necessary for the survival of many ground-nesting beneficial insects. This encompasses many of the native solitary bees. Please include more environmentally friendly tips in the future.

Answer: I greatly appreciate your feedback. I do realize the importance of pollinators and beneficial insects. You are right; we often only think about insects completing their life cycle on plant materials or above ground. It is estimated the nearly 70% of native bees are ground-dwelling or nesting.

It is vital that we leave patches of undisturbed soil in our gardens where these insects can live and reproduce. Full sun areas are ideal, but spots here and there also help. I have an area of about 10 by 10 that I do not mulch. It is an area I use for storage and seldom visit. I hope that these vital bees have found a home in this area.

Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

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SUMMER 2020 The Kansas City Gardener | August 2020

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Potpourri of Rose Facts JUDY PENNER shares rose facts from 1993 Jackson Perkins article.

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• Rose leaf fossils have been found in Montana and Oregon that prove roses existed 35 to 40 million years ago.

to 500 years old, and according to one legend was planted by Louis I, son of Charlemagne, in the year 815 A.D.

• According to mythology, roses were born of the tears shed by the broken hearted Venus as she wept over the slain Adonis.

• Christopher Columbus’ crew found a rose branch floating in the water while they were becalmed in the Sargasso Sea, an indication they were near land that encouraged them to continue their voyage westward in 1492.

• The rose is believed to be the first flower to have been cultivated, possible because it was the first flower to be doubled, meaning that its number of petals were increased beyond the number of petals of the wild flower form.

• Captain John Smith wrote of finding that the Indians he encountered planted wild roses to beautify their camps.

• There is evidence that a garden rose was cultivated in Greece in the fifth century B.C.

• George Washington and Thomas Jefferson both grew roses in their private gardens.

• The Greek physician, Hippocrates, listed roses among his medicines as a treatment for hydrophobia.

• The largest rose tree in the world is said to be the “Lady Banks” in Tombstone, Arizona. It stands nine feet high, has a trunk 40 inches in diameter, covers an area of 5,380 square feet, and is supported by 68 posts. The original cutting came from Scotland in 1884.

• It is recorded that when the Mayflower landed at Plymouth, “the shore was fragrant like the smell of a rose garden and the happy children gathered strawberries and single wild roses.”

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• The rose was made the official flower of the United States in 1987.

• Napoleon’s empress, Josephine, collected rose varieties from around the world for her garden at Malmaison, near Paris. About 250 varieties were planted.

Remember to Stop and Smell the Roses!

Judy Penner is Expert Rosarian at Loose Park, Kansas City, Mo. You may reach her at judy.penner@ kcmo.org.

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Aug. 11 (8/11) serves as convenient reminder for Kansas & Missouri residents to

ALWAYS CALL 811 BEFORE DIGGING

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ansas 811 & Missouri One Call encourage people to make a free call 2 full working days before digging to know what’s below.

With Aug. 11 almost here, Kansas 811 & Missouri One Call hope this date on the calendar, 8/11, will serve as a natural reminder for residents to call 811 prior to any digging project to have underground utility lines marked. Every hour, more than six damages to buried utilities occur because someone decided to dig without first calling 811.

When calling 811, homeowners and contractors are connected to the local one call center for Kansas or Missouri, which notifies the appropriate utility companies of their intent to dig. Professional locators are then sent to the requested digging site to mark the approximate locations of underground lines with flags, spray paint or both.

Striking a single line can cause injury, repair costs, fines and inconvenient outages. Every digging project, no matter how large

or small, warrants a call to 811.

Installing a mailbox, building a deck, planting a tree and laying a patio are all examples of digging projects that need a call to 811 before starting.

“On Aug. 11 and throughout the year, we remind homeowners and professional contractors alike to call 811 before digging to eliminate the risk of striking an underground utility line,” said Max Pendergrass, Public Relations Coordinator for Kansas 811, “It really is the only way to know which utilities are buried in your area.”

The depth of utility lines can vary for a number of reasons, such as erosion, previous digging projects and uneven surfaces. Utility lines need to be properly marked because even when digging only a few inches, the risk of striking an underground utility line still exists.

Visit www.call811.com, www. kansas811.com in Kansas or www. mo1call.com in Missouri for more information about 811 and safe digging practices.

Koi Pond and Water Feature Designs

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he Greater Kansas City Water Garden Society was forced to cancel the 27th annual public tour due to COVID-19 this spring. We decided to host five Mini-Tours FREE to the public. In June and July, three tours have taken place covering Clay and Platte Counties, Cass County and Shawnee, KS and Wyandotte and Leavenworth Counties–all successful, while practicing social distancing.

We invite the public to attend the two final Mini-Tours of the season. Saturday, August 6th in Jackson County, Missouri and Saturday, August 22nd in Johnson County, Kansas. These Mini-Tours of 6 to 8 homes are from 12 noon until 6 p.m.

Ask gardening questions of the homeowners on everything from hardscaping, decks, flowers, design and types of ponds and pond-less water features.

Come enjoy the beauty of the water gardens and get inspired to enhance your own backyard paradise. While there is no admission, there will be donation boxes at each site to fund our educational and restorative outreach efforts as a non-profit.

For more information on locations of the tours and all things “water garden’” follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram or visit our website www.kcwatergardens.com.

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The Kansas City Gardener | August 2020

9

Ornamental Grasses CHELSEA DIDDE RICE explains how ornamental grasses add vital texture, movement landscape or container design.

I

s your garden missing something but you’re not sure what?

When placed next to plants like a bold hydrangea or vibrant coleus, ornamental grasses provide a much needed change in leaf texture and an opportunity for motion, since their thin, strappy foliage is easily moved by the wind. Having a mix of colors, textures and movement is essential for inspired garden or container designs. In addition, these grasses are a backdrop that can remain in pots or beds throughout the spring, summer and fall while you change the surrounding annuals with the seasons (like pansies, petunias and mums).

Care for Perennial Grasses Generally, grasses are low maintenance and don’t suffer from many diseases or pests. For many varieties, the most work they’ll require is being cut back to about four to six inches above the ground in late winter, before new growth emerges. To make this chore cleaner, try wrapping the dead grass blades upright into a big bundle using a bungee cord, then cut them off at the base. This makes it easy to slip the trimmings into a lawn waste bag or compost pile. If, after several years, you notice that your grass is growing in a doughnut shape with a hole in the middle where no grass grows, it’s time to divide it. Dig up the grass (including a sufficient part of its roots) in early spring and divide it into several sections using a sharp shovel or small saw. Then replant the small sections in multiple areas or share a few with friends and family.

Variety Selection Ornamental grasses (both perennial and annual) come in a wide variety of sizes, colors and shapes. Take a look at a few popular varieties in this article and head over to your local garden center to ask what they have in stock now or plan for next spring.

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August 2020 | kcgmag.com

Perennial Grasses Lirope Grass A short perennial ornamental grass, lirope is a “set it and forget it” plant that thrives with little to no maintenance. You’ll find this tough perennial with either solid green or variegated leaves, and in spring, lilac purple or white flower stalks emerge atop the grassy mounds, providing gentle color. These same flower stalks will transi-

feet wide. Silvery blue seed heads sparkle atop the blades in late summer. In fall, the foliage turns a golden beige color, providing excellent fall and winter interest.

Hakonechloa Grass Shade gardens need grassy texture too! Hakonechloa is one of my favorite grasses because the plant’s shape portrays gentle movement, almost like it’s a green wave or stream cascading

Annual Grasses Purple Fountain Grass A classic choice for containers and in ground planting, purple fountain grass is always impactful. Its burgundy-tinted foliage grows rapidly when the summer heat begins and its fluffy, rose-red seed heads move in the wind. If you’re missing grassy texture in your deck or patio containers, this is a great one to look for when shopping for fall container plants, as some garden centers will carry mature grasses with seed heads.

Graceful Grasses® Vertigo® T his Proven Winners pennisetum is a dark purple plant that grows up to eight feet tall and three feet wide over the course of the summer before producing bottlebrush plumes in fall. Just one of these grasses in a large container or flower bed makes an enormous, eye-catching statement (with very little work on your part).

Karley Rose Fountain Grass tion to shiny, black berries in the fall, which provide winter interest and feed wildlife. It grows best in full to part sun.

Karley Rose Fountain Grass Stunning when planted en masse, Karley Rose is a very popular perennial fountain grass that produces rose colored plumes that contrast against solid green foliage. It grows two to three feet tall and wide and performs best in full sun.

Northwind Switch Grass For an upright grass for nar row areas, check out Northwind (pictured on cover), which is a beautiful bluish green plant that forms a narrow clump about four to five feet tall by just two

through a garden bed. Choose from several different shades of green or go with the ever-interesting variegated variety. Some varieties even turn orange or red in the fall. It spreads slowly by rhizomes but is not invasive and appreciates moist soil. Popular cultivars include All Gold, Aureola and Alboaurea.

Miscanthus Cabaret Grass My favorite grass overall is a miscanthus called “Cabaret.”

This Japanese silver grass has a graceful appearance and heavily variegated leaves measuring over an inch wide, which give it a unique look compared to other thin-leaved grasses similar in height. It grows six to eight feet tall and three to five feet wide.

Cyperus Grass If you’re planting in a wet area or can provide consistent water, consider using cyperus grass, like cyperus Egyptian papyrus. This grass has straight, strong stems topped with umbrella-like leaves that resemble flattened pom poms.

It’s easygoing and grows vigorously as long as it’s given sufficient water and part to full sun.

These eight grasses are just a small sampling of the wide selection you have when it comes to choosing ornamental grasses. So take a walk around your garden and see where you might add some texture and movement with a low maintenance, stunning grass!

When Chelsea Didde Rice isn’t at work as a senior communications specialist, she’s an avid gardener who enjoys teaching people how easy it can be to garden.

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Hakonechloa Grass All Gold The Kansas City Gardener | August 2020

11

Plants on Your Plate – Peppers DENISE SULLIVAN talks about nutritious food and preparing healthy meals, including fresh peppers.

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ed, yellow or green…sweet, spicy or hot…fresh, roasted or pickled. There is so much variety among peppers and their preparation methods; it is no wonder that Peter Piper picked a peck!

While most people commonly think of peppers (genus Capsicum) as vegetables, they are actually fruits, and a member of the botanical family Solanaceae. Spices derived from peppers, such as chili powder and paprika are also in this family. A common name for this botanical group is nightshades, which may not have the best reputation in some circles. Nightshades contain alkaloids, which is dangerous in high concentration as evidenced in other family members like belladonna and tobacco.

This negative association, unfortunately, often flows over to

other nightshade vegetables like potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, as well as peppers, all of which are abundant in many nutrients.

Some sources may associate nightshades with an inflammatory response in the body; however; there is not a significant body of research supporting this theory.

Food sensitivities are very individualistic and people with certain autoimmune disorders may find that nightshade vegetables exacerbate individual symptoms.

For most people there is no reason to avoid nightshades like peppers. They are a rich source of

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Vitamin C, vitamin K, folate and potassium. Green peppers are considered under-ripe and will have a more bitter taste than a red pepper. There are also yellow, orange and purple varieties that have similar nutrient profiles, differing mostly within the phytonutrients they provide based on their color family. Because red bell peppers are also a decent source of iron, it is well absorbed because of the high Vitamin C value.

Another big difference among peppers is the heat factor, which comes from the phytonutrients known as capsaicinoids, which have shown benefits to heart health.

The heat from capsaicinoids often results in people using less salt; therefore helping to lower blood pressure. Capsaicinoids may also improve cholesterol values and blood vessel function.

The heat of a pepper is measured using Scoville units: The scale ranges from zero (as in bell peppers) all the way to 3,000,000

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Denise Sullivan (@MUExtJackson Co) is a Nutrition and Health Education Specialist for MU Extension in Jackson County. For research based nutrition and food safety information and programs, call 816-482-5850 or visit https:// extension2.missouri.edu/.

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(as in the spiciest chile in the world, the Pepper X). The Scoville scale is a good base for knowing how hot your peppers are, but know that the heat can vary according to climate and vegetation. The relatively mild poblano (or ancho) pepper weighs in at about 1,500 (SHU), while the super-hot habañero packs a whopping 250,000 SHUs! Because peppers are mostly water, they will wrinkle and dehydrate as they age, so select firm unwrinkled fruits that feel heavy for their size. Store unwashed bell peppers in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week. Green bell peppers will stay fresh a little longer than yellow or red ones. If you have an abundant crop, peppers can also be frozen or pickled and you can find instructions on the Seasonal and Simple app or the website (seasonalandsimple.info). A recipe for my favorite use for peppers will be posted on KCGMAG.COM.

7130 Troost, Kansas City, Mo. www.soilservice.com Garden Center • 816-444-3403 Nursery • 816-333-3232

Now, that’s hot!

Local birding expert, NIK HIREMATH talks about an alternative solution to dissuade critters from invading feeders.

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uffering through the dog days of summer, the last thing you probably want to hear more about is heat. But we’re going to talk about a different kind of heat, chili pepper heat.

We often have customers who look at some of our products in the store and ask, “who likes to eat the hot pepper food?” The answer, it’s not who likes it, but rather, who doesn’t.

If you have been visited by squirrels, raccoons, deer or opossums and wish they weren’t eating the food you meant for your birds to enjoy, then this article will be of interest to you. For the others who aren’t plagued by these unwanted visitors, you hopefully find the science and general knowledge interesting. Some of you may already be using squirrel proof feeders, baffles, cages and even bringing in your feeders at night to thwart these unwanted visitors. All of them can be highly effective strategies. But now you can consider an additional option of using a variety of bird foods that contain hot pepper. When you use hot pepper products, you won’t have to use cages, baffles, squirrel proof feeders or bring your feeders in at night because the critters learn that your bird food is not tasty to them and they will avoid it.

Two questions are always asked when considering this alternative strategy. First, do the birds not taste the hot pepper and second, doesn’t it hurt them? Science will help us to answer these questions.

A quick primer on taste might be helpful. We have a well-developed sense of taste that is partly from the benefit of having about 10,000 taste buds. Our taste buds contain taste receptors that sense five types of taste: salt, sweet, bitter, sour and savory or Umami. Songbirds, on the other hand, only have about 50 taste buds. So, birds do in fact taste their food. Studies have shown they can distinguish between, sweet, salt, brine, bitter, lipids (fats) and sugar concentrations.

Looking for another option to deter critters like squirrels and raccoons from visiting your bird feeders? Consider a variety of bird foods that contain hot pepper.

While we say that something tastes spicy or hot, we do not actually “taste” the heat from peppers. Rather, the heat from peppers is a perception of pain. Along with taste buds, we also have pain receptors in our tongue that are triggered by a protein in peppers called capsaicin. So, while we will taste the various flavors in our food, we experience the pain from capsaicin in spicy foods. And why we say, “that really burns.”

Our pain receptors for capsaicin and those of squirrels, raccoons, etc., are similar; the pain receptors in birds are different.

These pain receptors are like keyholes and capsaicin is like a key.

In humans, the capsaicin key fits in the keyhole and “unlocks” the sensation of pain. In birds, however, the capsaicin “key” doesn’t fit their pain receptor and thus doesn’t unlock the sensation of pain. So, what “tastes” hot to us, or squirrels, raccoons, etc., does not taste hot to the birds.

In fact, there are some theories that suggest that this could be a coevolution of birds and chilis in some regions of the world.

Namely that since birds do not “taste” the heat from capsaicin, they can eat the chilis and when they fly to other places and leave their droppings, they “plant” chili seeds to grow in new loca-

tions. So, the chili plants continue to propagate, and the birds get a source of food that mammals cannot eat. In fact, there are

many varieties of peppers that are called bird peppers or bird’s eye peppers.

Many people have tried homemade solutions, but they can be challenged by pepper that is not hot enough or dry pepper powder and flakes that don’t adhere to the food or settle to the bottom or get washed off.

With the wide variety of commercially manufactured seeds, seed blends and suets that are available with hot pepper mixed in, it’s quite easy to try this alternative to deterring your unwanted visitors to your backyard feeders.

Nik and Theresa Hiremath own and operate Wild Birds Unlimited of Leawood at 11711 Roe Avenue, Leawood, Kansas. Contact them at 913-491-4887.

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13

Drought Stress or Vitamin Deficiency?

Arborist, DANE KIETZMAN informs gardeners about Chlorosis, knowing the difference and what to do about it.

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ugust marks the transition from summer to fall and the beginning of Kansas City’s beautiful tree transition to fall colored leaves. However, if you start to notice those fall colors coming now, this could be a concern! Early fall coloring, or leaf burn, is often a sign of underlying issues that do not bode well for the long-term health of a tree.

Be on the lookout for yellow foliage on your trees this summer.

While yellowing leaves are frequently the result of drought stress, there may be another culprit–a nutrient deficiency known as chlorosis.

If left untreated, chlorosis can lead to the loss of one of your property’s biggest assets, its trees! Here we explore this all too common problem by examining its symptoms, cause, effect and remedy.

Symptoms of Chlorosis Chlorosis is most readily identified with yellow leaves, but not just any yellow leaves. What distinguishes chlorosis is the vernation of the leaves. That is to say, the interior veins on a chlorotic leaf will retain a darker green color in contrast to the surrounding leaf tissue, while drought-stressed leaves typically turn entirely yellow. As chlorosis progresses leaves will transition from dark green to neon green, and eventually to yellow.

Through this process, the veins of the leaves typically remain noticeably darker.

What Causes Chlorosis in Trees?

The short answer is that most chlorotic trees are trees growing at the very edge of their native range.

Where these trees are native, this

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Although many trees are susceptible to this condition, the most common trees that we see this on are pin oaks, river birch and red maples. issue is rare. The long answer is a bit more technical.

The two most common causes of chlorosis in our area are iron and manganese deficiencies. These elements are micronutrients for trees.

This means that trees do not require a large amount of these micronutrients, but if they do not have what little they need trees can exhibit the symptoms listed above. It has long been known that chlorosis is not directly related to an absence of these nutrients in the soil, rather these nutrients are inaccessible to the tree.

Trees absorb their nutrients when they are dissolved in water and taken up through the root system. Elements become water-soluble at different pH levels. The pH of the soils in our region tend to be very basic–or alkaline. At this extreme of the pH spectrum, both iron and manganese become highly insoluble in water. So, in our area, these micronutrients are not readily taken up by our trees.

Recent studies are also showing that chlorotic trees also have reduced root systems. It is interesting that these two issues coincide, but there doesn’t appear to be solid evidence yet of which one proceeds the other. Did chlorosis cause a

reduced root system or vice-a-versa? The jury is still out.

The Effect of Nutrient Deficiencies Whatever the cause, the effect should be the most concerning to a tree owner. If you can remember back to your high school biology class, it is the color of a tree’s foliage that enables a tree to photosynthesize and produce energy for itself. As this color deteriorates, the tree gradually loses the ability to produce food for itself. As this progresses the tree will slowly begin to decline and can eventually die. Luckily, this process can take several years and its resolution is rather quick and relatively affordable.

Treatment for Chlorosis The straightforward solution is to artificially provide the tree with the deficient nutrient. There are many resources online which will direct homeowners to apply deficient nutrients to the soil around the tree. These may work in regions of the country far removed from our own, but they are ineffective here.

Recall that our soil pH renders these nutrients insoluble. While after the initial application these

nutrients may be absorbable, the soil conditions will almost immediately begin to reduce their availability to the plant.

The nutrient deficiency itself is best resolved with the injection of the nutrient directly into the tree. The only time I recommend attempting to amend the soil profile is for trees that are too young to inject. In this case, you will be utilizing an inefficient treatment, but avoiding the wounds caused by the injection process. This is important for a young tree. Larger trees can sustain and recover relatively easily from the injection process Most trees that become chlorotic from a nutrient deficiency will need to be re-treated again at some point in the future. By helping to re-establish a healthy root system, you can extend the length of time between professional treatments.

A healthy root system will be more suited to capture what nutrients do exist in a water-soluble state in the soil. Practically this can be done by ensuring that these trees remain properly watered through adverse weather conditions such as drought.

In addition to this, I also recommend treating the chlorotic plant with a plant growth regulator–or PGR–at or near the time of treatment. PGRs are products designed to redirect a tree’s energy away from canopy development and into root production. The effects of this application generally last up to three years and can greatly benefit the tree’s overall health. I highly recommend this treatment being done in tandem with the nutrient treatment. Until we know for sure in what order the deficiency in nutrient and roots came about, you may just be masking the symptoms by merely treating the nutrient problem.

In Summary As previously mentioned, the decline of a chlorotic tree can take years–but decline it does. There should be some sense of urgency to administer the treatment. A chlorotic tree will more rapidly decline as symptoms become worse and its internal food production and storage become strained. Either the nutrient injection or PGR technically can be applied anytime the soil is not frozen. However, ideally these treatments should be done while leaves are on the tree for the purpose of properly diagnosing the cause of a tree’s yellowed leaves.

For both treatments it is also highly recommended using a professional tree care company. If you are not familiar with either the treatment process or the products used, it is very easy to apply the wrong dose or even use the wrong products. Either can have negative consequences for the health of the tree.

In addition, many of the products readily available to homeowners are not effective on larger trees. Many of the trees I have treated in my career were follow-up treatments for failed attempts by my clients.

Sometime this week consider a stroll around your property inspecting plant material. With these tips, see if your trees could benefit from these relatively small investments into one of your property’s biggest assets.

Dane Kietzman is a eight-year professional ISA Certified Arborist with Ryan Lawn and Tree, currently serving as Team Lead for the Plant Healthcare Department out of Overland Park. Kietzman has a bachelor’s degree in Park Management and Conservation from Kansas State University with eight years in green industry experience since graduating in 2011.

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Milkweeds’ Deadly Encounters Butterfly maven, LENORA LARSON, answers frequently asked questions about the world of butterflies.

Photos by Lenora Larson.

Milkweed Diners Milkweeds contain cardiac glycosides which are poisonous to birds, mammals and most insects. In our area, the Monarch, and two species of moths, the Milkweed Tussock and the Unexpected Cycnia, are able to dine on milkweeds. There are also two species of true bugs, the Large and the Small Milkweed Bug and the Longhorn Milkweed Beetle as well as the obnoxious golden Oleander Aphids. You will likely see all of these common insects on your Milkweeds, munching away and doing no direct harm to your Monarchs except possibly competing for food. These insects store the toxic molecules in their bodies and become poisonous themselves.

For instance, if you ate a plateful of Monarch caterpillars, you could die of cardiac arrest!

This small moth died when it could not pull free from the Milkweed flower’s “slit of death”.

A Chinese Praying Mantis dining on a Monarch.

Spined Soldier Bug enjoying his Monarch caterpillar smoothie.

The Slit of Death Death comes in many forms.

The milkweed flower is a death trap for small pollinators when they stroll across the flower. The trap is set by the male parts of a Milkweed flower which consists of hoods and horns with sticky sacks of pollen, the pollenia, hidden in the slits between them. Fertilization

depends on a pollinator’s foot slipping into the slit and picking up the sacks when it yanks its foot out.

Hopefully when it flies to another flower the clinging pollinia will be deposited on the female stigma.

That’s fine for a big Bumble Bee or Monarch, which has the strength to yank their foot free. However, small moths, flies, bees and beetles often die because they can’t tug their foot from the slit.

resulting larva lives inside the body of its host and eats it alive, starting with non-essential organs. Most of us who raise butterfly caterpillars have had the shock of a Tachinid Fly or Braconid Wasp emerging from the chrysalis instead of a butterfly! Aphid “mummies” are a common sight on Milkweed plants after the parasitoid wasps have emerged and left the Aphid’s body as an empty papery brown husk.

Have you ever wondered about the name “Spider Milkweed?”

Asclepias viridis is so-called because a crab spider, Misumena vatia, perfectly mimics and frequently hunts from its flower. It is also called the “Goldenrod Spider” because if you remove the pale spotted Milkweed Spider and place it on a Goldenrod flower, within 4 days it will be a brilliant golden color! Large pollinators like Monarchs have nothing to fear, but small bees and flies are on the spider’s menu.

There are no villains or heroes in Mother Nature’s gardens. Even the insects that eat Monarchs are merely trying to feed themselves and/ or their children. None have evil intentions so I leave them in peace. It is your garden and your choice.

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It’s a Bug eat Bug World Some carnivorous insects are immune to the cardiac glycosides so you will see them hunting on Milkweeds, despite the diners’ toxicity. Stealth hunters include the Praying Mantis which ruthlessly rips its victim’s body apart.

Two true bugs, the Wheel Bug and Spined Soldier Bug, inject digestive enzymes into their doomed victims, including Monarch caterpillars. They then slurp out the resulting smoothie, leaving a blackened empty skin. Both the adult and larval Lady Bug (actually a beetle) hunt and eat other insect eggs and small, soft bodied prey like Aphids and Thrips. The larvae of both Lacewings and Syrphid Flies hunt and devour aphids while the adults do double duty as beneficial pollinators.

Then, like a scene from the movie “Alien,” we have the parasitoids, insects who lay their eggs inside the body of another insect that will be the living food for Spined Soldier bug with cat 8-3013 their larvae. The egg of the wasp or fly larva hatches and the

Marais des Cygnes Extension Master Gardener, Idalia Butterfly Society and Kansas Native Plant Society member, Lenora Larson gardens and hosts butterflies in the cruel winds and clay soil of Paola, Kansas. She may be contacted at lenora.longlips@gmail.com.

August Events at Powell Gardens Butterfly Picnic Brunch Saturday, August 1 & Sunday, August 2 | 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Picnic brunches by Michael Foust available for purchase.

Species Spotlight: Perfect Pollinators Friday, August 7 | 10:30-11:30 a.m.

Free with festival admission | Admission is free for members Join a Powell Gardens docent on a hunt for Powell Gardens’ perfect pollinators. This family-friendly event features a short stroll through our gardens and Native Butterfly Habitat in search of winged wonders. Families will play a pollinator game and get up close with hungry caterpillars. This experience is suited for families with children aged five to twelve. Come prepared with sunscreen. Space is limited, so please register online in advance.

SAGES: Water Lilies in Bloom Thursday, August 20 | 10:30 – 11:30 a.m. $35 includes a box lunch | Members receive 10% off Deb Spencer, co-owner of Water’s Edge, a regional resource for all things water gardening, will present an illustrated talk about elements of water gardening and inspire you with simple ideas for water features you can easily incorporate at home in a backyard, patio, or even a tabletop. Following the talk, grab a box lunch and walk to

the Marlese Lowe Gourley Island Garden with Deb to learn about the aquatic plants on display at Powell Gardens. Water’s Edge is a Lawrence, Kansas retail operation whose specialty is supplies for all things water gardening.

designated areas of the Gardens.

Dogs must remain on a leash at all times, owners are responsible to clean up after their pooch and proof of rabies vaccine is required at the gate. Special events for you and your pup on Saturday, August 22.

Play With Plants: Create a Dog-Friendly Garden Saturday, August 22 | 1-4 p.m.

Free with festival admission | Admission is free for members Bring your dog to the Gardens and drop by to learn how to create a dog-friendly garden. Learn which

plants are dog-friendly and which ones dog owners should keep out of their yards.

Rhythm, Blooms, & Barks Saturday, August 22 | 2-5 p.m.

Free with festival admission | Admission is free for members Enjoy the rhythm of live music inspired by the gardens in bloom.

Snacks and libations are available at the Perennial Lounge to enjoy as you sit, stroll, or dance with the music outside. www.powellgardens.org

Maggie is ready for a summertime stroll through Powell Gardens, Saturday and Sunday, Aug. 22 and 23.

Dog Days Saturday, August 22 & Sunday, August 23 | 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.

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It’s a mix of hot pepper and shell-less seeds so it’s also a no-mess way to feed the birds.

Shop our store to learn how Fiery Feast can help keep the critters away from your bird feeders.

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The Kansas City Gardener | August 2020

17

August

garden calendar

n LAWN • Apply about 1 to 1 ½ inches of water per week to Bluegrass to remain spring green.

• Apply about 1 inch of water per week to a tall fescue lawn.

• Apply the last application of fertilizer to zoysia by mid-month.

• Be on the lookout for grubs and apply proper control methods.

• Plan for fall renovation projects such as aerating and seeding.

• Check sharpness of mower blade and repair.

• Mow turf as needed depending on summer growth.

• Treat unwanted zoysia and Bermuda grass.

• Take a soil test to determine fertility program.

n FLOWERS • Apply 1 to 1 ½ inches of water per week to gardens.

• Divide iris and daylilies during dormant period through early August.

• Make last application of fertilizer to roses by mid-month.

• Control black spot and other rose diseases.

• Fertilize mums, hardy asters and other fall-blooming perennials.

• Deadhead annuals to encourage late season blooms.

• Cut back and fertilize annuals to produce new growth and fall blooms.

• Sow hollyhocks, poppies and larkspur for spring blooms.

• Prepare for fall bulb planting by making orders or researching varieties.

• Take cuttings from geraniums and begonias for wintering indoors.

n TREES AND SHRUBS • Water young trees every one to two weeks by deeply soaking the root system.

• Prune and shape hedges.

• Check mulch layer and replenish if needed.

• Prune broken, dead or crossing limbs for healthier plants.

• Check young trees and shrubs for girdling wires and ropes for planting.

• Avoid fertilizing ornamentals now, so they harden off before winter.

• Remove bagworms by handpicking.

n VEGETABLES AND FRUITS • Water about 1 inch per week.

• Plant a fall garden, beets, carrots, beans and turnips for autumn harvest.

• Plant transplants of broccoli, cauliflower or cabbage for fall production.

• Harvest crops regularly for season-long production.

• Ease fruit loads on branches by propping with wooden supports.

• Net ripening fruit to protect from hungry birds.

• Fertilize strawberry bed for flower bud development, improving yields next spring.

• Turn compost pile and add water when dry.

• Keep weeds under control to reduce problems next year.

n HOUSEPLANTS • Water summered houseplants regularly and fertilize to promote growth.

• Check plants for insects such as scales, aphids and spider mites.

• Wash plants to remove dust layer.

• Make cuttings and repot plants before summer sun slips away.

Johnson County K-State Research and Extension recommends environmentally-friendly gardening practices. This starts by identifying and monitoring problems. Cultural practices and controls are the best approach for a healthy garden. If needed, use physical, biological or chemical controls. Always consider the least toxic approach first. Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension.

For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

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ity with Grasses Beauty and Divers een Not Just for HallowCall 811 Orange and Black: Lemon rd of Digth Control BeforeBiYou Daylily: Beau Park eM ty for fy Weeds for Better Identi Decis ThanBu ion Time: ShouSeeded Lawn More a tte Dayrfl onth: Blue In the bird y Ask andExpe Feeding of Newly ld You Remove YourGaAsh rdenTree Conserva rts about weed Proper Carethe with tories control, oozin g sap and more Marvin Snyder

Name: Address:

JOHNSON COUNTY, MO

660-747-3193; Wed, 9am-noon

City, State, Zip:

LEAVENWORTH COUNTY

Phone:

MIAMI COUNTY

E-mail: Where did you pick up The Kansas City Gardener?

913-364-5700; Apr thru Sep, Mon 10am-4pm, Thurs 10am-4pm 913-294-4306; Thurs, 9am-noon

WYANDOTTE COUNTY

913-299-9300; Mon, Wed, Fri, 9am-4pm

QUESTIONS ABOUT ROSES?

GAR RENEDREN GAR DGEANRED ER Beyond The K T ty K an sa Cihe s C it y a n s a s C Th e Ka ns as ity A M on

Ask a Rosarian; kcrosehelp@gmail.com; www.kansascityrosesociety.org

Please enclose your check payable to The Kansas City Gardener and mail with this form to: P.O. Box 8725, Prairie Village, KS 66208 The Kansas City Gardener is published monthly Jan. through Dec.

Professional’s Corner

Bridget Tolle

F

orestry used to be considered a man’s domain but things are changing fast as more and more young women like Bridget Tolle enter the field. Bridget, a mother to three young kids, works as an urban forestry specialist and maintenance worker for the Public Works department in Prairie Village,

urban forestry specialist, City of Prairie Village, Kansas Kansas. She has a B.S. degree in Environmental Science from Columbia College in Columbia, Missouri, and became an ISA certified arborist in 2014.

As an employee of the City of Prairie Village, Bridget spends a lot of time inspecting the health of trees in the city’s parks and right-of-way areas. She’s involved in all aspects of tree care including trimming, planting, removing dead trees, and treating ash trees for Emerald Ash Borer. Snow removal, storm cleanup, trash duties in the parks and helping to set up and tear down for events are part of the job description. Bridget is also the City Liaison for the Prairie Village Tree Board.

When asked about the overall health of trees in Prairie Village, Bridget rates it as pretty good, but the trees are definitely aging. “I am seeing a lot of black oaks and pin oaks dying in the last few years. On a positive note, the new trees we plant in their place will help to replenish our urban forest for our children and their children.” She stresses the importance of planting a diversity of species to avoid having too many die at once if a disease hits.

For homeowners who are looking for what kinds of trees to plant, Bridget advises them to check out Prairie Village’s online right-of-way tree list (https://www.pvkansas.com/governing-body/city-committees/tree-board then click on ‘list of approved trees’) along with the Gould Evans “Great Trees for Kansas City” list found at https://www.gouldevans.com/treelists/ GreatTrees.pdf.

If she had to pick a favorite tree, Bridget would choose a baldcypress. “They have such a special presence with their pyramidal form and delicate leaves. It’s neat how they resemble an evergreen but lose their leaves in the fall.

There are some big majestic baldcypress trees in Tower Grove Park in St. Louis that I loved being around in my youth.”

Now years later, Bridget still likes keeping company with the forest, and is teaching her children the same. “I’ve always enjoyed working outdoors alongside trees, so this is the best job for me. I do love my job but I also live for the weekends when I can soak up my time with the kids. It all can be exhausting at times, but totally worth it.”

The Kansas City Gardener | August 2020

19

Gracious

Ground Cover Aquapots

Plumbago ®

by Proven Winners

®

Designed by Michael Carr, Aquapots come in a variety of sizes and colors and deliver the convenience of a self-watering pot with no risk of over-watering. Available now at our Martin City and Lenexa locations!

®

Sedum

Vinca Minor

Creeping Jenny

...plus many more!

Summer Rose Sale Select Roses up to 25% Off While supplies last.

Sale ends 8/24/2020

Ground Cover

It may be a great solution for that difficult space in your landscape - where you’d like a different option.

Choose a variety that will do well in your sun and moisture conditions. Ground cover can solve problems, but be patient.

There’s an old adage about them: “The first year they sleep.

The second year they creep. The third year they leap.”

Think Green

August is a good time to seed your lawn to thicken up thin spots for a greener lawn this fall using Suburban’s newest, weed-free varieties of seed.

• Bulldog Fescue/Rye Blend • Prairie Pride Fescue • August Suburban Shade Mix 20 2020 | kcgmag.com • Premier Bluegrass

105th & Roe (913) 649-8700

K-7 & Prairie Star Pkwy (913) 897-5100

135th & Wornall (816) 942-2921

#suburbanlg // suburbanlg.com