IHA Spring/Summer 2019

MANAGEMENT

SOCIAL

INNOVATION SOCAP Goes Cold

Straight Talk

Ron Cardillo Explains

from Amy Gibson

Pg. 16

Pg. 22

Welcome!

Hair Club’s New Home

Pg. 30

EXPANSION Success Story JA Alternatives Keeps Growing

Pg. 4

The International Hair Authority

TM

Volume 23 No 80

The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation

Spring/Summer 2019

Hair Art Defends Hair Additions Los Angeles, CA - Hair Art Int’l Inc has won a landmark lawsuit that should bring relief to hair manufacturers and distributors everywhere. Over a year ago, International Designs Corporation (IDC dba: Hotheads and Hairtalk) filed a patent infringement lawsuit against Hair Art’s Topper hair extension product.

As due diligence moved forward, it appeared to Hair Art that IDC’s main objective was to prevent competition in the market by instigating a lengthy and expensive legal battle that might lead small operators to settle out of court. In fact, The Hair Authority has learned that Hair Art was just one of several companies that were sued by IDC, and while some defendants chose to settle and avoid the huge legal costs, Jackie Yu, owner of Hair Art Products decided to confront the issue head on. After a lengthy battle and over a million dollars in legal fees, Hair Art prevailed, and the judge issued a summary judgement dismissing IDC’s claim. As a result of this case, the market is now clear for other professional hair industry vendors to offer this type of topper hair extension without fear of legal implications.

Cooling Caps Wins Award

Paxman, developer of an innovative scalp cooling technology for preventing hair loss in chemotherapy patients, has won the export achievement award at the Medilink UK Healthcare Business Awards. Paxman’s cooling caps are made from high grade silicone material, designed to provide a close fit around the patient’s head. The cap reduces blood flow to the scalp and hair follicles, limiting the amount of chemotherapy drugs hair follicles are exposed to. In clinical trials, more than 60 percent of patients saw their amount of hair loss cut in half, leading to approval by the Food and Drug administration. Since its original FDA clearance in April 2017, PAXMAN has installed around 225 scalp cooling systems in the US with a further 65 systems awaiting delivery and installation.

More Generic Finasteride San Francisco - Keeps’ and ‘Hims’ has a new competitor. San Francisco based ‘Lemonaid’, an online doctor's office and mail order pharmacy, now offers an online hair loss consultation for $25 to get a prescription for generic Propecia. A 90-day supply costs $90 from their partner pharmacy or it can be picked up from any local pharmacy. Clients need to answer a few simple health questions and take photographs of their hair loss from different angles.

Hair Loss Market in China Worth $1.37 Billion - and growing.

Hair loss has become one of the top concerns for young Chinese people, who are losing their hair earlier than before. According to a survey by the China Association of Health Promotion and Education, Chinese men are going bald 20 years earlier than preceding generations because they are struggling to find well-paid jobs amid higher living costs. Another report from Health News and DXY, a leading online healthcare platform, showed hair loss to now be among the nation’s top five health concerns. Market research company, iResearch estimated that China's hair transplant market in 2017 was worth $1.37 billion and growing each year by more than 100 percent.

Selma Blair Criticized for Head Wrap Actress, Selma Blair has been criticized by some member s of the Sikh community who claimed she was being disrespectful to Sikh culture and religion by sharing a photo of herself wearing a head wrap. Selma, who is experiencing hair loss as the result of treatment for multiple sclerosis, posted, “We have one answer to your bad hair days or NO hair days #alopecia @rachelfleit...wraps! (oh, it’s been around for thousands of years).” Not all Instagram reactions were negative, but to set the record straight, Selma added, “Covering one’s head is not appropriating anything but warmth and a wig alternative.”

2 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019

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Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 3

Editorial You’re Not Alone - Sometimes it feels lonely managing a small salon or family business, but you are a vital part of the US economy. More than half of Americans either own or work for one of the 28 million small businesses. According to the latest census data, US small businesses employed 58.9 million people, or 47.5% of the private workforce in 2015. The “2018 Small Business Profile of the United States” report published by the SBA’s Office of Advocacy showed that small businesses created as many as 1.9 million net jobs in 2015 with firms employing fewer than 20 employees experienced the largest gains, adding 1.1 million.

The Times They Are A Changing – As the Hair Authority digitizes its content and moves much of it to the web, we find ourselves spending more and more time talking to researchers and social behavior experts who point out the speed with which shopping in general, and the personal care market in particular, are being influenced by new technologies. The paradox, however, is that the saturation of mobile devices and easy access to the Web has created information overload with exaggerated claims and contradictory statements. Men and women suffering from hair loss are still seeking information they can trust.

• By the year 2020, 80% of the entire buyer’s journey is expected to occur without any human interaction (Forrester) • 615M is the number of devices that use software to block advertisements online (2017 Ad Block Report) • 70% of adults trust recommendations from each other more than statements from brands (Forrester) • 75% of smartphone users check their device within 15 minutes of waking up every morning • 1/3 of Americans say they would rather give up sex than lose their cell phones.

Creating Value – I was very impressed by the following statement, so much so that I immediately wrote it down. I would like to share the source with our readers, but unfortunately, I neglected to save it. “In the Value Era, clients don’t want or trust your sales pitch. The power has shifted. Consumers have more access, control, and choices than ever before, which means that winning patients isn’t about what you do anymore; it’s about how you do it. Today, marketing is about creating value, not selling services.” Wish I had said that!

See Before You Buy – Amazon is making its Augmented-Reality technology available to L’Oréal’s Modiface brand to

allow customers to “try on” different shades of lipstick using their cell phones before they buy. The service is hosted by Amazon Beauty. The hair loss market is not far behind. Although we do not yet offer AR services, Hair Club has developed a special App that allows clients to check their appointments, review their service history, record styling preferences and seek hair care information. And ARTAS has software that allows prospective transplant patients to see what results they can anticipate with available donor hair.

Healthy Aging – South Korea, Japan and Europe lead the way in skin care research and development. They may also have unique and sensitive insights into consumer attitudes and behavior. The following commentary is from Cosmetics Design Europe: It’s no longer about anti-aging, it’s aging healthily. Anti-aging is becoming an outmoded concept when strictly applied to cosmetics. The consumers’ mindset is shifting to now accept aging as a part of life. Instead of fighting against aging by using products with traditional anti-aging claims, they are instead embracing their years and look for cosmetic solutions to support wellness. With increasing knowledge of the factors that contribute to aging, savvy consumers are looking for a means to prevent skin damage to mitigate the accelerated aging process.

This change in thinking coincides with the emerging quest for well-being that has been taking hold in recent years.

Greener than Green – We’ve all seen the removal of harmful chemicals from shampoos and conditioners, and we’ve admired the biodegradable packaging that some forward-looking companies are beginning to introduce. Now Procter & Gamble has decided to take things one step further. Market leader, Olay is preparing to pilot a new packaging initiative to reduce its plastic waste with new refillable pots made from recyclable polypropylene. The brand has designed a refillable pot for its Regenerist Whip moisturizer, which can be replaced inside the jar once it’s emptied. If testing in the US and UK is successful, Olay hopes it will save more than one million lbs. of plastic.

Say Thank You to Hair Art – We don’t all have seven figures to invest in patent litigation, but thankfully someone else does. Hair Art successfully defended the hair addition market against claims that a particular method of adding hair to an extension or hairpiece violated a patent originally filed in Germany and later extended to the US. The details are complex, and we won’t try and explain them here. Suffice it to say that had Hair Art not fought this battle, many hair addition companies would have found themselves paying substantial royalties.

4 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019

Success Story

How One Company Grew to a Regional Powerhouse

Jane Genesi and partner Jim McGowan J.A. Alternatives founder, Jane Genesi, had already acquired both her hairdressers license and apprentice Barbering license by the age of nineteen and was quickly snapped up by a new hair loss startup, Hair Replacement Centers (HRC). While working with HRC, Jane continued to build her personal care skills, training with Helena Rubinstein, Matchabelli and Estee Lauder in make-up and skin care. HRC later morphed into Hair Club for Men (HCM) and Jane became part of the team that helped grow Hair Club into a regional and then national franchise operation. When Hair Club decided to discontinue working with women and focus exclusively on their growing men’s’ hair loss clientele, Jane decided to branch out on her own and use her new skills to offer an expanded range of personal care options to both men and women.

Today, J.A. Alternatives offers Permanent Make up for hair loss as well as eyebrows, eyeliner, lips and camouflage make up and areola reconstruction for breast cancer survivors. The company also uses permanent make up for hair strokes to fill in backs and sides as well as micro dots to simulate shaved heads. This is an alternative for clients who are ready to take off their hair but do not wish to appear bald.

Jim McGowan was a key player in the company’s growth and as its marketing needs increased, Jane invited him to become her business partner. Today, J.A. Alternatives has 90 employees and offers personalized hair and skin service in eight centers serving the US East Coast. The Hair Authority met with Jane and Jim to learn about the company’s rapid expansion.

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 5

JA Alternatives was founded nearly 30 years ago by Jane Genesi. The first location was opened in River Edge NJ. Today the company has 90 employees and offers personalized hair and skin service in eight centers serving the US East Coast. J.A. Alternatives is committed to solving the problem of hair loss for men and women non-surgically and combines a fresh, honest sales approach with cutting edge technology.

Hair Authority: You are starting 2019 on an exciting platform by adding several new studios to your network. What is significant is that this expansion came about not because you were aggressively seeking to acquire new businesses, but because their owners came to you as a result of your reputation and connections in the industry.

“We realized that dealing with the emotional side of acquiring a business is extremely important and has to be addressed early on.”

ness plan to do so. It’s very difficult to sell a hair replacement business because there are risks involved, including the obvious risk, the transfer and possible loss of customers. Many business owners hit retirement age and realize they may not be able to value or monetize their business after all those years of hard work.

Authority: It’s not only a question of money. There’s also a personal history. The business is also part of “Who I am.”

Jane Genesi: You are right. There’s also an emotional side to handing over control of your business. For many small business owners, the company becomes their Cont’d Pg 6 social life as well as their business life. It’s

Jim McGowan: We have been fortunate in joining together with some very impressive companies. We didn’t have a blueprint for these acquisitions and, as you pointed out, they were not part of our original business plan. In fact, each one of these acquisitions was unique and individual. They definitely weren’t a one-size-fits-all. That’s what helps make J.A. Alternatives agile and unique.

Authority: What is happening in the marketplace that makes business owners want to explore new partnership relationships? Ate they looking for operating efficiencies by pooling resources, or do they need specialist skills to cope with a market that has become too complex?

Jim: In the case of our most recent acquisition, there were two main reasons. The owners were looking for partners to alleviate the loneliness and isolation of owning a small business, and they were getting ready to retire.

Authority: Transitioning a hair replacement business from the original owners to a new team is never an easy as it seems.

Jim: Jane and I have watched so many of our friends work extremely hard and grow their businesses over the span of decades. However, after 25, 30, and sometimes 40 years, they’re ready to retire, but realize they haven’t made a busi-

Jane Genesi with Andy Alfieri

6 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 they were concerned about their staff panicking, leaving, and taking clients with them. There are a lot of moving parts that need to be addressed during an acquisition and the transition has to be seamless.

Jim: Large corporations often approach small business acquisitions as a bookkeeping analysis, not a personal journey.

We pride ourselves in our personal approach and our flexibility to work around an owner’s wants and needs. Some owners want to get out of the business right away while others just want to dial back their involvement in the daily chore of running the business but want to continue doing hair. What makes us unique is that we are happy to work with an owner and we’re very flexible.

Jane Genesi Visiting Factory in China

isolating. They feel no other person can care as much about their clients or staff as they do. This is where Jim and I come into play. We think it’s much less isolating when you have a business partner to lean on.

Jim: Since you asked earlier, “Why us?” I just wanted to circle back because that’s an interesting point. We’re a big/small company. We’re kind of in the middle. Sometimes that’s an advantage and sometimes it’s a disadvantage. For instance, our size doesn’t always allow us to make decisions as quickly as we might like, but those same resources give a one-owner company a lot of support and unburden them since we have a multitude of connections and experience that can really benefit them.

Jane: Consider not having to worry about rent, payroll, insurance, client satisfaction, hair orders, or product orders.

Can you imagine if you just had to walk in and do hair?

Many owners dream of being able to do that again, rather than focusing on what the profits are for the year.

Jim: We realized that dealing with the emotional side of acquiring a business is extremely important and has to be addressed early on. It’s important to figure out right at the start what an owner actually wants to achieve. As you pointed out, it’s not just the money. We take the time to understand the owner’s needs and wants, and then try to alleviate any fears.

There’s a lot of fear involved in selling your business as it’s been the owner’s baby for many years. To let that go and to put it in someone else’s hands requires a lot of trust.

Authority: What you’re describing is very different to a typical corporate approach that typically applies a multiple-to-earnings, or the number of clients with long-term service plans to compute the businesses’ value. You have a personal approach that makes it easier for small business owners to connect to.

Jane: If we were dealing with a very large company, our approach might be different. But when you’re dealing with owners who know the first and last names of not only every client, but their wives and their children, it is very personal.

Owners are often surprised that the first things we address are: “How does your family feel about you selling the business?” or “Have you spoken to your staff yet about this?” 99% of the time, they haven’t spoken to their staff about selling because

Jim McGowan at their Factory

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 7 Authority: We hear that often. What you just described supplies the missing bits for so many business owners. They can get marketing materials from their distributor; they can join a group like Transitions and huddle with other people to share common problems. But that doesn’t provide all the other support infrastructure that can free them from back office work and let them get back to what they are passionate about, which is simply doing hair.

Jim G: I’d also like people to know that they have an exit strategy with us. They can be as involved as they want. For example, Stella Neste, who owned, “Then and Now Hair Replacement Company”, called me one day and said, “I’m getting ready to retire. I’m bringing you my clients.” And I said, “Wait a minute, there’s a better way.”

Jane: So, we struck a deal and started servicing her clients.

Then, after a couple of days working together, she said, “You’ve got this under control, Jane. You know what you’re doing. My clients are being taken care of. I’m heading out.” Stella then went ahead, “headed out” and sold us the company.

Authority: You had the flexibility to work with Stella without upsetting her comfort level.

Jane: I think it’s important that we are able to move as quickly or as slowly as needed. It makes things more comfortable when you give people time to decide.

Authority: But this is a two-way relationship. It has to be a good fit for you as well.

Jane: The ideal situation is when we can move a business into one of our existing offices. Then it beCont’d Pg 8

Jane Genesi and Gail Robson of Boca Raton Hair Center

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8 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019

comes much more cost-effective for us and for the owner to simply merge our businesses. The clients feel a little bit more comfortable too when they hear that we’ve merged offices, we’re sharing rent, and we’re sharing expenses.

Jim: The word “Acquisition” always sounds a little cold to us.

An acquisition seems like: “You’re ours now. We bought you.”

Clients don’t want to hear that. They want to know that nothing is going to change.

Authority: Do you create hybrid names when you acquire an established business, or do they adopt your identity?

speaking, studios keep their identity, but become part of the J.A. Alternatives network.

Authority: Everybody wants to associate with a winner.

How do you reassure people that you are the partner who’s going to bring them success?

Jane: Our track record speaks for itself. We offer four case histories that illustrate how we work, and we invite anyone to call any one of these centers to see how they’ve been treated since they associated with us. Just call unsolicited and ask, Did J.A. Alternatives do everything the contract stated? Are you happy with them? Do you like their philosophy? Are they fair?

Are they honest? How do they treat staff? How do they treat clients?” I think that far better than us blowing our own horn.

Jane: If It depends on the size of the company. For now, three or our offices maintain their original names on their websites. For example, with Andy Alfieri, we thought it was important to keep his company name front and center. So, Authority: We’ve talked about the understanding, the ethics, we kept his website up and active. We even answered the and the humanity that you bring to a possible merger. Let’s phones using the Alfieri look forward at an industry name for an extended that is undergoing very raptransition period before id change, where there are switching to J.A. Alter“And, in the non-medical arena, new disciplines, increasing natives. In Boca Raton, automation and new hair we have developed “EHK,” with Florida, we took a different management technologies.

Hollywood legend, Erwin Kupitz. approach. The owner, Gail Does J.A. Alternatives have This is probably the highest-end Robson had such good a vision and the resources name recognition that we product in hair replacement for this future? opted to keep that name today.” and a create a hybrid. So, Jane G: We always have an it all depends on the size of eye on the future. One of the company, but generally the things I brought on this

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 9 year was micro-pigmentation. I had seen a lot of men who were shaving their heads still not want the bald look. They actually wanted the shadow or the inference of stubble. So, I personally took micro-pigmentation courses to study this and we’ve been doing this now with great success. We also work very closely with plastic surgeons and follow new medical procedures and research. And, in the non-medical arena, we have developed “EHK,” with Hollywood legend, Erwin Kupitz. This is probably the highest-end product in hair replacement today. We thought it was important to spend the money to develop this product and we have trained our staff to apply and style it very precisely. What was once an art is now a science with consistently superior results. For extra control, we source buy our own hair and materials and then send them to China.

Jim: We see the women’s market as a big area of growth right now. We’re pushing the envelope and have brought on some coloring and hair cutting experts to work with us. Hair replacement has been notoriously behind the times in those areas. We plan to change that.

Authority: If someone reading this interview is thinking about “heading out” what do they do next?”

Jane: Very simple. Call me directly. If we can help, it would be our pleasure. If not, we may be able to point them to someone who can. The first thing we would do is sign a nondisclosure agreement so that they know that we are serious about looking at their business, that we respect all the years of work that they’ve put in, and, most importantly, we respect their privacy. We have no desire to hurt a business. We’re all in this together!

About JA Alternatives - JA Alternatives was founded nearly 30 years ago by Jane Genesi. The first J.A. Alternatives location was opened in River Edge NJ and today there are a total of 6 locations throughout New York and New Jersey. Through the years Jane Genesi has remained dedicated to bringing the most advanced hair replacement technology and products to her clients.

Jane realized early on the need to distinguish JA Alternatives from other hair replacement studios by developing unique products and services. J.A. Alternatives and Mr. Erwin Kupitz have designed a series of ultra-high-end hair replacements for men and women.

About Erwin H. Kupitz - For over 20 years Erwin has created hair additions for major motion picture companies in Hollywood.

His personal hair replacement clients read like a who’s who list of Hollywood mega stars: Mel Brooks, Keanu Reeves, James Woods, Brendan Fraser, Mark Wahlberg, Tim Allen, Heather Locklear, Placido Domingo, Sir. Anthony Hopkins, Warren Beatty, Billy Zane, Lynn Whitfield, Neve Campbell, Anthony Quinn, Patrick Steward, Beyoncé Knowles, Jon Voight, Nathalie Portman, Wesley Snipes, Diana Ross, Jimmy Smits, Edward Norton, Minnie Driver, Jane Seymour, Ed Harris, Kiefer Sutherland, Antonio Banderas, Brad Pitt, Alicia Silverstone, Rebecca Romjin Stamos, Michael Nader, Rob Schneider, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Diahann Carroll, Matthew McConaughey, Andy Garcia, Gene Hackman, Ron Silver, Freddy Prince Jr., Shirley MacLaine, Sarah M. Geller, Mandy Moore, Angelina Jolie, Michael Caine, John Travolta, Tom Cruise, Stacy Keach, Leonardo Di Caprio, Benjamin Bratt, Jonathan Tucker, Brandy, Vin Diesel, Josh Harnett, Owen Wilson, Val Kilmer, Jack Nicholson, Jim Carey, Neil Sedaka, Hugh Hackman, Ron Silver, Freddy Prince Jr., Shirley MacLaine, Sarah M. Geller, Mandy Moor.

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10 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019

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Role Model The Hair Authority Revisits Lucinda Beaty There is no need to introduce Lucinda. She attends workshops, shows and conferences everywhere. She has travelled to Asia to visit hair factories and to Washington to lobby for insurance reimbursement for hair additions, not to mention pressuring her local senators to extend barber’s rights to female cosmetologists. And she is not just a powerhouse in her chosen profession. Lucinda is also a competitive skier, rides a custom Harley-Davidson and for relaxion goes skydiving and scuba diving. There is not enough space here to chronicle all her contributions to the hair replacement and addition market, so we’re just going to let readers get to meet this remarkable woman in this informal interview.

Hair Authority: Lucinda, you are well-known to our readers because we’ve talked before about the good work you’ve done over the years.

You’ve been involved in helping to craft and influence legislation and you have changed the focus of your business to help women suffering from cancer. What are your priorities today?

like when put on a helmet to ride my motorcycle. Unfortunately, the minute I put on a helmet, voila, there goes my hair. It gets stuck to my head.

Wearing a wig helps with this issue.

Authority: You probably wear a helmet often, not only for the motorcycle, but also for skiing, rollerblading and all the other crazy stuff you’re into…

Lucinda Beaty: I focus my energy on hair loss solutions for people with special needs.

I also give special attention to my staff many of whom have been with me for over a decade. We need caring people and it’s hard to find those people today.

Authority: Many people enter industry because they’ve suffered from hair loss themselves, but you have wonderful, healthy hair. What motivated you?

Lucinda: I have all the toys, but I’m a little more subdued now. I ride my bike less frequently these days because I’m older and I don’t want to get hurt. I used to have no fear in years past, none; but now I’m trying to be more cautious.

Lucinda ‘s Hair Salon

Lucinda: No, I actually suffer from Alopecia Areata. I’ve worn lots of hairpieces and wigs in the past, in fact, the first time you met me I was wearing a wig. However, I don’t have to do so now because my hair today is better than ever due to trichology. It’s growing in nicely. It’s slightly thicker and I have more of it. I still opt to wear hairpieces or wigs at times,

Authority: Playtime aside, how has your business evolved over the years?

Lucinda: I’ve done hair forever. And it sure has been a journey. I started off in the 60’s wanting to learn as much as possible and going to all the shows and workshops with people like Sassoon and the Chadwick’s. By the mid 70’s, I had set up shop with a partner and we had a staff of 12. Then in the 80’s, I moved to Connecticut because I wanted to open up a salon that was less chaotic compared to the usual open salons. I wanted a place that would allow me to have a more

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 13 needed help. So, I did my research and made another mold, this time with recesAuthority: You then began sion and a human/synthetic to offer hair additions and blend. When it came back, I hair replacement services. cut it in to a man’s style and How did that journey begin? he was ecstatic. So, I said to Lucinda: One day somemyself, you know this is realbody from my church who ly rewarding. I’ve just learned suffered from Alopecia something that can really Universalis asked for my help people. I started with assistance. He needed me the Alopecia client and then to make him a wig. I didn’t moved into other men’s and know what I was doing but women’s hair loss situations Lucinda Beaty at NAAF I did my best, made a mold and even children. I made and sent it to American a point of attending all the Hairlines who informed me Alopecia conventions and that it wasn’t designed right because it didn’t have any temthe more I learned the more involved I became. Inevitably, ples or recession. I didn’t know a mold needed recessions as business eventually involves politics and I joined a campaign there was no education about things like this at that time. So, to try and change the law so stylists like me could cut men’s this became a pivotal moment in my career because I knew hair at their beauty salon, which was a big thing. After a lot I wanted to help people, but I didn’t have the knowledge. I of campaigning we were finally successful. could see there was a real need at my church - this poor man Cont’d Pg 14 had been wearing a bad wig for a long time and desperately Authority: Explain the issue about cutting personal relationship with my clients.

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14 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 take for granted.

Lucinda: This isn’t an easy industry. There’s always something we need to change, like getting women insurance coverage for prosthetics due to hair loss from chemotherapy. We had to fight for that. At the time, there were no provisions for chemotherapy patients to get their wigs covered. We had to go to the Connecticut State Capitol and protest and go to court and change the law. We eventually succeeded and now chemo patients who reside in Connecticut can get at least $350 reimbursed and sometimes more, depending on their insurance carrier.

Authority: For the longest time, it was assumed that you needed to keep thinning hair clients apart from the people who were having regular styling and coloring done because they would be embarrassed. How do you handle this?

Lucinda: It depends on the client. We have private rooms for our wigs and chemotherapy patients. We also have an open area. Generally speaking, people are ok being out in the open area if they are just getting their styled or hair colored. However, we find most people with hair loss want privacy.

Spaceous and elegant

men’s hair. It seems strange today that female stylists were not able to work on men.

Lucinda: I’m going to give the exact date the law changed; it was April 24, 1974. Before that, we were only allowed to work with women in the beauty salon. I had a group of clients who were all male ski instructors and I had to do their hair at my house because it was against the law to do their hair in my salon. Needless to say, this was inconvenient for me and for them. Barbers were licensed to shoeshine, shave and color and us hairdressers were only licensed to cut, singe, fringe, permanent wave and color women’s hair! It made no sense. We had to reach out to lawyers and go to institutions like Harvard to get support. The barbers fought us tooth and nail. They didn’t want us cutting men’s hair, but I we had powerful supporters and we were ready to fight to change the law – and we finally did in 1974.

Authority: A lot of managers of hair replacement studios would say their biggest problem is finding and keeping good staff. We started our discussion today with you telling us that two of your technicians have been with you for 14 years.

What’s the secret?

Lucinda: Simple. They like helping people. We’ve created a good environment here and our clients have become our friends. I also believe in building our technician’s skills, so I am happy to invest in their education. They also get paid well, including vacation pay because they deserve it.

Authority: What has your long career in hair replacement,

Authority: Other than protecting the male clientele, what was the logic, behind the barbers’ complaints. What’s different about working on a man’s head?

Lucinda: The barbers said that women shouldn’t cut men’s hair because the men would harass them and make passes. In court, we had to run through various scenarios and explain why this wasn’t an issue. When women have a scissor and a razor in their hands, they care about the hair, not sex. We were forced to prove that women stylists are creative artists who can cut not only women’s, but men’s and children’s hair.

Authority: You had to fight for many of the things we now

Lucinda gives class

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 15 Lucinda: Although the building is quite large, it has a boutique atmosphere with large windows. We have five stations in the salon section, two stations out in the boutique for wigs and hairpieces, and then it also has a private room for the staff to have lunch and an office. We also have a large parking lot which makes it very convenient for staff and clients alike.

Authority: We would imagine that there is a business benefit when the owner is on the premises. You always know what’s going on and the staff had better arrive at work on time….

Lucinda: That is an advantage, plus I have surveillance cameras so I can look and see what’s going on wherever I am.

That’s good for business and for security.

Authority: You are not located in a city center. Where do you draw your clientele from?

Trichology and styling products

taught you about the qualities a technician needs to be successful.

Lucinda: Number one, they have to be honest and have compassion. They also need to have a vision for each client in order to give them the best artistic look that they can.

This job requires more than haircutting. It takes creativity, an artistic ability and a will to continue learning and growing.

Authority: Is the hair replacement industry now at risk because cosmetologists without those human qualities see a new profit opportunity but don’t have the experience to handle it?

Lucinda: No question. In fact, I’ve just had a woman study with me for three months. One day, we had a walk-in asking for a haircut and this woman did it. Well, I caught sight of the client as she was getting cashed out and I had to take her back and re-cut her hair because the student didn’t know a layered Bob from a wedge. I couldn’t believe it. So yes, it’s very difficult to find the right fit in this industry. This woman who had studied with me had all the right qualities on paper, but she simply didn’t have the natural skills. It’s difficult in the hair replacement industry to get somebody with skill, artistic ability, the desire for continued education to be on the cutting edge, while also being loyal and honest. Add to that the fact that they need to be able to work with people who have a special need and provide emotional support. That’s a lot to ask for.

Lucinda: My clients come from all over from New England.

Boston is two and a half hours away, New York is only an hour and a half. Vermont is anywhere from two to three hours away. Even New Hampshire and Rhode Island are less than two hours.

Authority: You are very active in social media. You post frequently on Facebook and you have a TV show as well. How important is this?

Lucinda: It’s become the backbone of the business. The TV show is on a local channel in the Cox Cable network that covers five towns. I bring on different specialists and doctors and we cover a variety of hair topics including chemotherapy, alopecia, and trichology. I have a great production crew and a talented editor. I’ve been broadcasting for over 15 years.

Authority: The industry is contracting at a rapid rate. We see a lot of mergers, acquisitions and joint marketing. Could you ever see your company becoming part of a network or a larger organization?

Lucinda: I am open to it. All that matters to me is making sure my clients get the best care possible. My clients come first. If a partner or associate could provide additional support or add new services, that’s a win-win for everyone.

Authority: You have a close relationship with your clients not only because you’ve been through many of the same experiences, but also because your business and your home are close together. In fact, they couldn’t get much closer, could they?

Lucinda: They’re actually connected. I live and work here, but I keep them separate.

Authority: How big is the studio?

IHA

16 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019

SOCAP Goes Cold!

Ron Cardillo introduces his new cold fusion hair extensions Ron Cardillo: SOCAP, USA was officially introduced in the US back in 2001. We took the original SOCAP name from Europe, trademarked it and made it what it is today.

It all started when we learned about a warm fusion process that was doing really well in Europe using keratin to attach hair extensions.

We immediately saw the Ron Cardillo, CEO potential of bringing this technology across the Atlantic, did some local testing just to be sure, had a number of management meetings and decided to go ahead. We believed this technology could turn the hair attachment market around, and it did. Now we’re looking at the newest generation of attachments… and we think it’s going to be another game changer.

Hair Authority: What makes it so exciting?

Ron: The first thing is it doesn’t use any heat whatsoever.

Although we were the people who once introduced a cold fusion technology using ultrasound waves, that process still required a small amount of heat in order to soften the keratin. But this new technology radiates no heat whatsoever.

There is no machine needed and no heat. The attachment itself consists of two sections of hair that are wedged together with a little of the client’s own hair. Because the technology is patented, I don’t want to go into too much detail, but there are positive and negative charges that are generated at the tips of a special attachment tool. It is shaped a little bit like hitech pliers, but the similarity ends there. When it’s squeezed, the extensions are firmly sealed together under the client’s hair. Done well, an attachment like this can last between two to four months.

Authority: Cold-fusion sounds simple and quick.

Ron: That’s correct. It’s a clean and straightforward process.

It’s like two magnets coming together, or two pieces of

Velcro, but there’s no Velcro, obviously. The result is almost invisible. You can’t even feel it to the touch once the attachment has been made.

Authority: You emphasized that there is no heat; what about chemicals?

Ron: There are absolutely no chemicals. Even the prep products like the pre-cleansing shampoos and the maintenance products are all organic. And when the attachment is removed, the liquid that’s used to undo the process and release the hair is organic also. As you know, I am a trichologist and safety is my top concern, so when I learned about this attachment process, you can understand why I was so excited.

Authority: Does the procedure require special training?

Ron: Yes and no. Although the process is virtually foolproof, we still recommend professional training and we make it accessible to everyone. Even a novice hairdresser or someone who’s not in our business could learn this technique and make perfect attachments every time because everything is built into the system. You can’t make a mistake like misjudging the distance from the scalp or the spacing between each strand.

Authority: Does this foolproof system still give the stylist the flexibility to customize the extensions to satisfy a client’s preferences or create a special look?

Ron: Absolutely. Here’s why. This is the first time a hairdresser can choose whether to use small grafts, mini grafts, or full grafts in the attachment. This is especially useful when you are working with thinning hair. If a person has thinning hair and wants to add volume and length, it can be done quickly and easily because the extensions are already available in their texture. Our keratin tip extensions come in three sizes; our regular keratin tip extension for example, would be “medium” width. Then we have “small” which is ideal for filling in thin hair and “large’ which is great for quickly adding volume to create length or thickness in a client’s hair. There are also three lengths – short, medium and long, plus a choice of straight or wavy texture. We plan to introduce curly as well.

Authority: What about the human hair itself?

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 17

The Hair Authority recently met with Ron Cardillo, president of SOCAP USA., a company that traces its roots back to Italy, but is now a proud family-owned US business located just outside New York. Ron talked about his early years in the hair industry and then shared his vision of a network of dedicated hair extension studios that would match the multitude of nail spas that have proliferated across the country. SOCAP has pioneered a number of new hair addition technologies and Ron Cardillo also told The Authority about a new cold-fusion hair extension technology his company has recently introduced.

they get trained? Do they receive a starter kit?

Ron: Yes, we offer a starter kit which contains all the things needed to get going. It includes 100 extension samples in small, medium and large sizes. In fact, it could actually be used on a client, so a new user could make their money back on their very first appointment. Because we are so generous with the samples, A salon doesn’t need to have a kit for each stylist. One starter kit is quite sufficient for one salon.

Authority: What does your certification program involve?

Ron: People already experienced with extensions can complete the course in half a day. They don’t need to be shown how to do sectioning, extension positioning, etc. even though we do cover that. Our more comprehensive, full-day program is for someone who’s never done extensions before and we go over the techniques of placement, sectioning and cutting so when they get finished, they are knowledgeable and confident. We also offer retraining if it’s necessary and refresher courses that are free. We have a beautiful academy

Ron: You’d never know which is the client’s hair and which is the extension because we are able to buy virgin human hair that will match the client’s own growing hair so perfectly.

We believe we offer some of the best hair out there. I know a lot of people make that claim, but I can tell you we buy the most expensive hair available. It’s beautiful and we offer it in multiple colors and shades, including frosted colors.

Authority: Is your cold-fusion product now available in the US? Ron: We’re introduced it for the first time at a show in New York we will be taking it to Orlando and then to Vegas. My European counterparts are already getting tremendous results with the product and when we sent some of our technicians to demo the procedure in a few local salons, the overall response was overwhelming. We think we have a tiger by the tail here!

Authority: If someone wants to try the product, how do

Cont’d Pg 20

18 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019

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Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 19

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Authority: Everybody seems to offer hair extensions.

Even Paris Hilton had extensions. Every show is inundated with booths displaying hair extensions. What makes yours different?

Ron: The key factor for us is taking away the guesswork; making the process precise, easy and foolproof. Our technique eliminates common errors. Even if they want to make a mistake, they can’t.

Authority: Does the simplicity and absence of heat speed up a slow, painstaking process? Nobody has time to spare these days.

Ron: Absolutely. Another thing I should mention is the comfort of wearing our hair. Once our extensions are attached, if somebody were to touch their hair, they will never know or feel anything. You can’t feel the attachments even if you want to find them. It’s also very difficult to even see them. There are no lumps, no pulling, no rolling, no what I call sausages. Even the flat wrap technology that we developed and used in the past, doesn’t come close to this.

Authority: An important question which we haven’t touched on yet - what is the product called?

Ron: We are calling it “Cold Hair.” SOCAP, USA Cold Hair.

Authority: You started your career in men’s hair replacement. Do you still offer men’s thinning hair solutions?

Ron: Yes, we do. I am very much aware of the psychological implications of hair loss. Something happens to your self-

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Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 21

confidence and personality when your hair starts to fall out and I want to be there with answers. Everyone here shares the same commitment.

Authority: We believe you have your family working with you.

Ron: That’s right. Early in my career, I transitioned from retail to wholesale because it offered me the opportunity to introduce new technologies into the US. At first it was just my better half and me building SOCAP, then one of my daughters who was a school teacher at the time with a master’s degree in special ed., fell in love with the business and decided to join us to manage the staff. Then my other daughter who has a degree in accounting, saw that we were growing and needed help, so she joined us and now handles all the receivables and payable, etc. But it didn’t stop there.

My son who was a police officer with seven-eight years on a SWAT team, decided that he wanted to come in and take over the marketing department. And my son-in-law came aboard to handle the shipping… and today, a couple of our grandkids stop by the office from time to time… so it’s an ongoing family situation!

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Authority: Is it Ron, Jr. that we see in your videos?

Ron: That’s correct. His wife has a beautiful salon and spa so that provides the perfect backdrop. She also does a lot of testing for us. We’re all pulling together to help build this beautiful business. I don’t want it to sound like a commercial, but my passion is to bring the latest and the best to the industry.

Authority: You’ve been an educator and a trendsetter for over twenty years. Any final thoughts about the future of this industry?

Ron: It is my dream and my belief that what happened with the nail business will also happen to hair extensions. Many barbers and beauticians originally saw manicures only as a filler. A necessary service, but not a real money-maker. Then what happened? Somebody saw the light, moved nails into their own space and now you have nail salons all over the country. Today, 95 percent of women go routinely to the manicurists. I firmly believe that hair extensions could be a new personal-care channel with its own facilities just like nail spas. Medicine today is all specialties, so why not something as intimate as hair care? At the moment, we’re still general practitioners, but that’s okay. It’s an industry that’s going to grow and grow, the way I see it.

IHA

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22 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019

HAIR TRUTH BE TOLD Straight Hair Talk - from Amy Gibson

anything you don’t want to know." Some of the information may not be what you had hoped for, while other information will inspire you with new wonderful solutions. The secret is to try to be as calm through this transition as possible so you can keep a good perspective and make intelligent decisions for your personal needs at this tender time. Hair replacement on any level is an investment and you want to learn the most you can so you can feel free to enjoy, care for, and get the most from your investment.

I myself have this challenge. Being a wig wearer, I feel so deeply for the client’s needs, and at the same time must separate my emotions to guide them clearly and directly which can be quite a challenge at times.

Hi everyone! Welcome to Hair Truth Be Told where we can chat about all the hair issues; and there are plenty of them ... I'm excited to be spending time with you here at the amazing resource, the Hair Authority™, that publisher and creator, Chris Webb has spent so much of this life building for all of us.

In thinking about how to approach this new conversation, I want to speak to both the professional vendors and the wig wearers, as both sectors have significant challenges and to attain their desired elegant solutions.

As a wig wearer for 25 years, as well as a designer and retailer for almost 20 years, I can tell you I KNOW the issues on both sides. Neither position is a walk in the park, however, the park can also be uplifting, and resourceful.

I guess the first thing I want to express is that I feel most people in the hair replacement industry have very good intentions and are trying their best to help those coming in with hair loss challenges in addition to those simultaneously going through cancer. This is a very sensitive place to be emotionally for both the hair replacement professional and the client.

Hair loss is certainly scary and can be very confusing, so understandably there will be lots of questions. After all hair loss is not something we learn about in school, and most of the time we are introduced to it only when someone we know is ill and loses their hair, SO when it happens to us… we feel lost.

However…. don’t shoot the messenger.

Wig Wearers When you ask for our advice that insight is usually coming from years of experience. I always say, "Don’t ask me

After all, retailers are people too, with feelings, heart, have a life of their own, families to deal with etc., who have just so much bandwidth as well. And we are not perfect, we are not infallible, nor are the factories we deal with, but we try our best to do what you need.

It’s a two-way street when two people come together to create a solution. So sometimes keeping that in mind can be a huge help for the journey on each side.

Your hair replacement studio is a place for a private discreet safe exchange, however it’s also a place for mutual respect to be shared on both sides.

Just because the client may be uneducated with wigs, does not give the studio the right to be impatient or not give the client their absolute best solution possible, regardless of time.

However, that must be within reason as well.

However, to that note, it’s unacceptable to take your emotions out on your sales person or hair loss expert. Just because you are going through tremendous stress does not give you the right to dump your emotions or frustrations and be rude when they’re just trying to help you.

Nor it is fair to take many hours of your expert’s time to make your decision then think it’s ‘acceptable’ to simply change your mind continuously without paying for the extra time spent on your behalf or assume that you’ve approved your styling, completed our order and then change your mind the next day thinking it’s acceptable for the studio to take this loss. They won’t and nor should they.

On way of avoiding any mistakes and something suggest to my clients, is to bring a good friend to their styling session as a second pair of eyes and someone who has known you and can give you a truthful perspective. Have a few photos with you to make sure you and the stylist /expert on the same page. The ultimate mission is a peaceful beauty transition.

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 23 It also helps to understand that this is a wig. It is a foreign thing on your head, and at first, you may need to work and get comfortable with it. Period. There is no magic pill. it takes a little time and attention.

How long it takes and how difficult it becomes is largely up to you.

It will never be a second scalp - it is always going to be a wig.

However, with that said, this doesn’t mean it has to be heavy or uncomfortable or be an unpleasant experience. A wig can be lightweight, breathable, look like you and something that can empower any individual wearing it.

I feel the biggest challenge that wig wearers have at first, and professionals have with a client, in the beginning, is to get each client to understand that their stylist is doing his/her best to give you something breathable and comfortable that looks like you and makes you feel like YOU again.

For success on this wig journey, there is a process.

1. Grieving; the loss of your hair regardless of the medical condition.

2. Acceptance; of your hair loss. I’m not saying this an easy or quick process. Everyone has their own time table for this. But in accepting this reality will open your heart, thus allowing you the opportunity to create something greater and happier in your life.

3. Changing; your perspective from ‘having to wear a wig’ which consciously and unconsciously creates resistance, to having fun and enjoying this journey a bit more. After all, regardless of the medical condition causing your hair loss, it’s the one place you are in more control of and will give you the opportunity to explore more looks if that’s what you want. The experience can empower anyone if they are open to it. At the very least, it can bring you great peace of mind and a more joyful, calmer heart.

SO, try to go easy on yourself AND the professional helping you. Have a little more patience with yourself to get to the other side of this new journey. You may find an entirely different person you never knew existed.

Until next time,

Thanks for stopping by. If there is something you would like me to explore here or feel you want discussed, feel free to write me at: Amy@CreatedHair.com Blessings, ~

Amy Gibson ~

IHA

TM

THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY

The Hair Authority’s mission is to provide hairmanagement professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their clients and patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide.

EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb

cwebb@hairauthority.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dylan Case dcase@hairauthority.com

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Larry Oskin info@hairauthority.com

LEGAL NOTICE

The views expressed in The International Hair Authority are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The International Hair Authority, its editors or staff. The Authority’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature.

The International Hair Authority makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of the International Hair Authority a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The International Hair Authority accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials.

All articles and letters become the property of the International Hair Authority and may be edited for clarity, presentations and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The International Hair Authority, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, websites and other information materials.

Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The International Hair Authority Media Kit.

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The material published in The International Hair Authority is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.

THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY 39252 Winchester Road #107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563 Email: info@hairauthority.com Tel: 626-709-6397

24 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019

Bad Idea!

Doctors Warn Against Going Out of the Country for Hair Restoration Surgery

By John Vincent

John Vincent

My friends and colleagues, who have made correcting hair loss problems their life’s work are collectively horrified by the feedback from patients who’ve been butchered by un-trained doctors and technicians.

As I pointed out in a recent post, the advent of robotic-assisted machines for hair extraction (and sometimes, implantation) allows doctors to think they can “get in on” the hair restoration business with little training, and that by simply hiring technicians to run these surgical procedures they can provide satisfactory results. This does not mean the machines are faulty.

Rather, it’s the doctor’s belief that he or she does not have to personally perform the surgery and it can be left in the hands of unlicensed technicians. This happens all too often in foreign countries.

Dr. Robert Reese

Dr. Steven Holt

Dr. Paul Rose

Dr. Sharon Keene

Robert H True MD

Dr. Jeffrey Epstein

Dr. David Perez-Meza

Dr. Michael Markou

Ivan Cohen M.D.

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 25

Seems I touched a nerve in my May 9 blog post about the dangers of what the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) describes as “Black Market” for Hair Transplantation Surgery!

• “(I tell prospective shoppers for foreign hair surgery)..your low cost hair transplant could end up being the most expensive decision you’ll ever make after you have to pay an experienced, qualified hair transplant surgeon to correct what a technician did” - Dr. Robert Reese, ABHRS Board-Certified of ISHRS, Minneapolis, MN. • “I support both this project, and all of your dedicated efforts to expand the awareness of the truth as guiding information to those seeking hair loss solutions” - Dr. Steven Holt, Veteran Hair restoration Surgeon in Grand Rapids, Michigan.

• John…thank you for your efforts - Dr. Paul Rose, Past President of ISHRS • “This article is excellent! I think this article should be everywhere! It is never just about the surgical tool or instrument.

Until full automation from AI is possible — which it currently isn’t - it will always be about who is using the tool or instrument. There is a reason for medical licensure, the public should never forget why there are safeguards and medical licensure requirements because many businesses are trying to convince them it is all about saving money rather than for quality of care and safety” - Dr, Sharon Keene, ISHRS Past President and Chair of committee for public education to safeguard against mistaken advertising that promotes doctors credentials but delegates surgery to non-physicians.

• “Your description of what is going on with companies promoting unlicensed technicians doing hair surgery is accurate and alarming. In New York State the Medical Practice regulations allow delegation only to licensed nurse practitioners and physician assistants who are qualified by the kind of program they are trained in and who are supervised by qualified surgeons. I have had extensive direct communication with the medical board about this. Despite this there are many practices in which hair transplants are being performed daily by unlicensed technicians and nurses (neither permitted) in New York State. It is crucial that the public is informed and advised to be very cautious and selective. It is always the wisest decision to select a practice in which the doctor will be the one doing the surgery.” - Robert H True MD, MPH, Fellow ISHRS, Diplomate ABHRS • I support your efforts, John- nice work - Dr. Jeffrey Epstein, Cosmetic Surgeon, Miami, Fl • Unfortunately, the Black Market in hair restoration has been growing very fast worldwide. Health laws in each country are different but It is critical that the patient knows that in medicine, we emphasize Doctor-Patient the relationship.

The practice of hair restoration is no different - Dr. David Perez-Meza, recipient of the ISHRS Platinum Follicle Award and multiple chair of the ISHRS Live Surgery Workshop.

• “I support your effort to help educate consumers!” - Tampa Surgeon and physician trainer of 20+-Years, Dr. Michael Markou

• Good work John. We need to get the message out there to the public - Ivan Cohen M.D., Fairfield, CT.

IHA

26 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019

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28 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019

Trichology Section

David Kingsley, PhD. President World Trichology Society

As hair replacement and restoration moves beyond styling and artistry and new technologies become available , it is becoming increasingly important for professionals to understand the underlying medical, genetic and lifestyle reasons for hairloss. To provide information about the latest research and developments, The Hair Authority has invited David Kingsley, PhD, founder and president of the World Trichology Society to share the latest news and links to important reports and publications. Dr Kingsley first became involved in the world of trichology over 25yrs ago. The Authority/Journal has been publishing for 21yrs, so together we bring half a century of experience to these pages.

Treating scalp hair loss – how difficult can it be?

By Anthony Pearce Modern marketing stratagems seem to be ‘made’ for our society’s hedonistic ‘I want it now’ attitudes – and simplistic hair loss treatments are the perfect example.

We are reassured if we just use this shampoo or apply that lotion or supplement or prescription drug, our concerns will be over and hair density restored. If restoring follicle scalp hair were that simple, every person would have healthy, dense locks of hair – and the hair loss treatment industry would cease to exist.

The reality is that treating scalp hair loss so that the client may at least gain ‘aesthetically pleasing’ results can be quite complex, multi-factorial and an investigative challenge as to cause: Hair – particularly scalp hair in humans is considered a NON-essential skin appendage (in nutrient-metabolic-hormonal terms) - frequently the first tissue to have support for growth withdrawn when body balance is disturbed. Shedding/thinning of scalp hair density is often an initial primary symptom* of internal disturbance, deficiency or emerging disease process.

Body hair in modern humans is now also a lesser priority in terms of thermal regulation than it was for our cave-dwelling ancestors. As such our slow but continuing evolution has de-prioritised hair as a necessity for our survival.

In adult males the most common form of scalp hair thinning is male androgenic alopecia, as much a part of a post-pubertal male’s secondary sex characteristics as his whiskers, increased body hair, deeper voice and musculature. For females scalp hair thinning is almost always an indication of internal disturbance or deficiency.

Optimal hair growth, quality & density is dependent on un-interrupted activity within the hair follicle, and therefore highly sensitive to any internal or external events that might disrupt follicle phasing.

A positive aspect to this is that a reduction in scalp hair density is a ‘signal’ from the body that all may not be well – a wise person listens to the body which they inhabit and best understand.

The body will ONLY commence to re-support follicle hair growth once internal disturbance is stabilised, and nutrient deficiency is corrected to the levels required to support ‘appendage growth’ (hair and nails) – then sustained for 3-4 months to allow for follicle phasing progression.

It then follows that attempting to treat scalp hair loss FIRST or in isolation to assessing and treating the underlying disturbances potentially causing scalp hair thinning will almost always result in a poor outcome because the body’s metabolic capacity determines scalp hair growth - not shampoos or topical lotions or even prescription drug ‘band-aids’.

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 29

Hair Loss is Hair Loss – true or false?

All hair loss is the same’ is a common myth perpetuated for commercial interests or an ignorance by some treatment practitioners as to the nuances of hair follicle regression.

There are in fact many different forms of hair loss ranging from ‘temporary and self-correcting’ through to scalp (appendage) destruction and permanent hair loss; the causes of which are equally numerous and varied.

Iodine) and developing autoimmune conditions.

10. Specific pathology testing to assess above pre-existing or hitherto unrevealed issues will provide the treating practitioner with a clear pathology baseline of internal disturbance being reflected as scalp hair loss density. The two most important nutrients for scalp hair growth are: o

Adequate Vitamin D levels (minimum 100 nmol/L or 80 ng/L) are required to re-set the follicle growth phase (termed: Anagen).

o

Optimised Zinc availability is crucial to the keratinisation process of hair and nails; keratin is the outer layer of the hair shaft structure and key to its integrity.

Identifying ‘WHAT’ condition is established by: 1. Time of onset i.e.: 1–3 months ‘rapid onset’ or 12-18months ‘slow’ thinning-out of scalp hair 2. Is the hair shedding ‘diffusely’ i.e.: across the entire scalp or ‘patchy’ or ‘patterned’?

3. Events preceding the onset of scalp hair loss: illness, surgical procedures involving blood loss, allergic reaction, significant stress or severe shock, ceasing or commencing certain such as contraception/hormonal therapy or anti-convulsant/mood stabilising medication, (rapid) weight loss programs or severe dieting.

4. What other issues is the client reporting: tiredness, scalp sensitivity, sensitivity to cooler weather – felt especially hands, feet or tip of nose; unexplained weight gain and/or mood disturbance.

5. What clinical signs are apparent to the treating practitioner: pale pallor, facial hirsutism in a female, ocular signs (‘shiners’ indicating allergy/atopy; ‘fat pads’ under the eyes suggesting Cortisol insufficiency), irregularities in the fingernails, mapping and cracking or discoloration on the tongue.

6. Pre-existing hormonal-metabolic issues: Insulin Resistance/Diabetes, Sex/Steroid hormone imbalance, Thyroid dysfunction, Adrenal/Chronic Fatigue, genetic cell mutations (termed: SNiP’s) to particular nutrients, disturbances in bio-chemical methylation metabolism pathways, gut dysbiosis or any other chronic health conditions will always reflect in a reduced scalp hair density.

7. Pre-existing congenital or genetic issues: Haematology conditions such as Thalassaemia or Hemochromatosis will adversely influence hair cycle control (HCC).

Thalassaemia suppresses bone marrow function resulting in a continuing low Haemoglobin (Hb).

8. Client ethnicity: different races of people have greater susceptibility to certain conditions than others: Japanese for Alopecia areata or those of Greek/Mediterranean heritage to Thalassaemia.

9. Gender: Post-pubescent females are at greater risk of deficiency in crucial nutrients (iron, Vitamin D,

‘Local milieu’ – the X-factor of scalp hair growth: Hair cycle control aka follicle phasing requires specific and complex local ‘signalling’ for the competent transformation of hair follicle development (Millar:2002; Oro + Higgins: 2003; Schmitt-Ullrich et al: 2004). This is inter-follicular and intra-epithelial signalling at a molecular level requiring various growth factors, receptors and (neuro) trophins to progress the hair growth.

Some medication which contain hair cycle modulating properties can encourage or imitate some changes in the local milieu but (again) will have limited effect if other areas such as nutrient support is compromised.

Correcting any nutrient-metabolic disturbance can take some months to reflect in the hair, so approved topical treatments may also be used as adjunct hair regrowth ‘accelerators’ in a combination therapy approach.

As treating practitioners we can assist the Client with establishing the precise nature of their concern, what might be driving it and how they may correct it – but only the Client can actually allay the problem to their ‘aesthetic satisfaction’ through treatment diligence and patience; there are no shortcuts. *Primary symptoms for NON-androgenic alopecia are: 1. (Scalp) hair thinning or loss; sudden + excessive OR slow and imperceptible.

2. Tiredness or general fatigue – both of the body and mind.

3. Mood disturbance as anxiety, irritability, feeling ‘stressed’ or depressed mood 4. (Sometimes) changes in weight.

Copyright Anthony Pearce 2019. clinic@hairlossclinic.com.au WTS Regional Representative for Australia

IHA

30 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019

Hair Club Has A New Home Cool, Chic and Cutting-Edge

Hair Club has a new home… and it’s state of the art. 120 employees now enjoy a workspace that is modern, sophisticated and very friendly. In fact, employee comfort and efficiency were top of the list when the company planned its move as the Hair Authority found out when we attended the Grand Opening.

To celebrate its new home, Hair Club welcomed Aderans president and board members from Tokyo who flew in for the occasion, together with top executives from sister companies, Bosley, Rene of Paris and International Hair Goods. The mayor of Boca Raton was also on hand to wish Hair Club good fortune in Boca Raton’s newest Class A office building, as was the Consul General from the Japanese Consulate.

The following interview was with Mike Nassar, Hair Club’s president and CEO. a number of times and it became disjointed and more of a patchwork. It wasn’t keeping up with the way we wanted to work. I’ll give you an example. We have about 12 people in the IT department and in the old offices, nobody knew where “I want our staff to want to they were because they were Mike: We were coming up come to work, versus having stuck in a corner somewhere on the renewal of our second behind a wall. Nobody even to come to work. ” ten-year lease on 1515 Federal knew they existed. And even Highway. At first, we had no people within the corporate plan of relocating, we just office didn’t really know each other or communicate with wanted to make sure that if we stayed at 1515 we could each other because it was so hard to navigate the place. It was get a complete makeover of the facility because the layout and design no longer provided the employee experience we more like a maze. So, when we found out that our previous valued. As we grew over the years, the suite has been redone landlord wasn’t open to building out the space or allowing us Hair Authority: Several months ago, we visited Hair Club at its old location. And when we say “old” it doesn’t mean outdated or tired promises. In fact, it was a great building in a great area. So why did the company decide to relocate?

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 31

L to R: Consul General, Aderans President, Mayor of Boca Raton, CEO, Mike Nassar, Senior VP, Rich Narsisi

to build out the space as we saw fit, we started looking to the outside. Colliers, our realty group, went to work and found us a number of locations including one on Yamato road and we were ready to sign the deal on that location until this the Palmetto Park Road space came up. As soon as we saw it, we were ready to move forward because it gave us a blank canvas to set up the space any way we wanted.

Authority: When we met last time, the thing that impressed us so much was the fact that Hair Club, a company that a lot of people regarded as a just another faceless monolith, was in fact a very human company. And that commitment wasn’t just an empty promise or slogan, it was demonstrated by lots of little things that might have gone unnoticed like mousepads with a message that told users they mattered, or the balloons in the call-center to celebrate a great week.

Mike: We have tried to carry those values forward into our new space and take advantage of the design flexibility to add more benefits for everyone.

have pride, not only in their personal workspace, but in their overall surroundings. And must allow people to talk to each other freely; a place where we can all get together and meet in a number of different areas versus one big conference room. If you remember, our old space had that one big marble U-shaped table that was huge and was made for really big meetings with a large number of people. It was intimidating. So, we told the architect, “Give us something that is the opposite of this from a collaborative standpoint, from an employee experience standpoint and from a structural standpoint.” And our architect came back to us with at least ten different designs. They included areas where folks could rest like a serenity room with massage chairs, as well as, two very comfortable lunch rooms. They also proposed something we liked a lot, a “scrum” area right as you get off the elevators where you can have meetings without sitting at a table and feeling stuffy. Knowing that we don’t see clients in our corporate office, we’ve been able to focus 100 percent on the employee experience.

Authority: You have clearly succeeded. We saw a massage room, several relaxation areas and places just to hang out. We could have been in Silicon Valley. What was the brief you gave the interior designer?

Mike: It was very simple. Give us a space that is collaborative and employee friendly.

That allows folks to

Grand Opening VIPs

Authority: The interior design combines this low key, relaxing ambiance with the latest technology. We saw muted colors; gray walls with silver threads running through them that looked very sophisticated, but outside the conference rooms we also noticed what appeared to be highCont’d Pg 32

32 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 the world.

Mike: That’s right. We have partnered with a number of high-level agencies from branding, to social media, to PR, to product design, to IT and most of these agencies aren’t based in Boca Raton. So, there is a constant need for us to be able to scrum or speak face-to-face with people in New York, Massachusetts, Wisconsin, L.A., China, Japan and all over the world. Our video setup allows us to do that. The other thing that you’ll find interesting from a technology standpoint is that, there are only three telephones in our whole office.

There is a front desk telephone, a telephone in my office (because I’m old-fashioned) and my assistant Jimmy has a telephone too. But there are no other phones in the corporate office except on the call-center side. We’ve moved to Skype

Finance & admin area

“We even have started podcasts with two well-known names in the radio industry, Conan O’Brien and Howard Stern. We’re trying to reach people we wouldn’t have reached before. ”

tech LED panels. What were we looking at; and what other advanced technology is built in?

Mike: We want technology to facilitate and streamline operations throughout our workspace. Our meeting rooms, for example, incorporate the highest possible level of technology you can get for video-conferencing or group chats. We can do a video call and share that meeting or presentation on a big screen for everyone in the room to follow. And we don’t just have one of those, we actually have two 100 plus inch projector screens. We also have 20 monitors throughout the facility which not only share data but also allow everyone to arrange quick and easy video conversations.

Authority: This must be a game changer because you have over a hundred locations, not to mention suppliers around

for business on everyone’s PC and every person outside of the call center now has a headset or an earpiece that connects directly to Skype. So, when I want to call somebody, I just choose their name from Skype and dial right into their PC. I am immediately in video contact with them. I can use the instant messaging feature as well. It’s faster and easier than walking over across the office and it allows for quick decisionmaking.

Authority: `This is technology that people would not expect in the hair replacement industry. Is this the future?

Lunch room

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 33 we’re ahead of schedule from that perspective. But a couple of years ago I challenged the team to think bigger and as a result we have just launched an App called The HairFit App for our customers. They can use the App to book or change appointments and make payments. They can also learn more about our hair technologies, our product line and find out where the closest Centers are. We also introduced a new Tablet App. Our client relationship managers in the service centers no longer have to walk around and take notes on paper. They can come in with a tablet which is assigned to each one of them and pretty much answer any questions that might come up or take notes regarding the client

Relaxation room

Mike: Absolutely. I think it’s our job as a company and as an industry to raise the bar and get ahead from a technology standpoint. And I think we’re doing that. You might have said a few years ago that we were ahead of our time because we were placing all our hair orders online to our factories throughout Asia, but we’ve come a long way since then.

Some companies still make carbon copies of orders and fax them or mail them and things like that, Small meeting rooms but today all our orders are typed in at our 120 centers in experience right there on the tablet. a program that spits This information remains on the client’s them out instantly record so if the stylist taking care of that at the factory that’s client today isn’t available tomorrow, we automatically selected know exactly what type of adhesive the as best suited to make clients uses, what color to use, maybe that system type. So, even what kind of coffee they like and what magazines they prefer. We’ve been able to install tablets in every styling room across the company, so over 800 styling rooms now have personalized tablets for each of their stylists. There is another side-benefit too - we recently had a client say they wanted to watch a college football game and we were able to pull it up on the tablet and have them watch the game right there in the styling chair.

Authority: Is there a risk that people will get distracted by these tools and waste time?

Informal meeting area

MN: One of the other things that stands out in this office is the fact that we don’t have a clock in any of the meeting rooms or the break rooms. Somebody asked me, “Why don’t we have clocks, people are going to lose track of time and take long lunches.” And I said, “Exactly. We want people to take the time they need away from their desk. Because, Cont’d Pg 34

34 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 pleases me more at this point than to walk out of my office into marketing or IT or walk over to the accounting and legal side and see four lawyers sitting at a booth having coffee and chatting it up. Or, a bunch of IT guys standing in a corner of their work area, actually talking to each other face to face.

Or, walking into a lunchroom and seeing somebody from marketing talking with someone from legal who probably never spoken to each other before. Those are the attributes I would look for. On a priority list I would place them higher than a business degree.

Authority: How do you take these head office values get those out into the field?

Mike: I think we’ve already taken care of that. Today, there is very little separation between corporate and Connected Worldwide the field. I’ll give you an example of ‘walking the talk.’ nobody should be chained to a desk all day The speeches at our Grand long.” I believe a fresh mind and a vigorous Opening were all filmed. exchange of ideas fosters innovation and We had two video cameras, collaboration. I want our staff to want to a bunch of still photography come to work, versus having to come to cameras and a number of work. people recording on their phones. That was not the Authority: One of the nation’s top press. These were our own business schools recently published a paper employees and they were that examined the skillsets you need to be broadcasting our speeches.

Conference room utility successful in today’s marketplace. It used to and bringing the atmosphere be an MBA or a degree in computer science and everything that was were key to top earnings, but things have changed. It’s now going on to all our centers. All our 1200 employees got to see all about the kind of values you just described; imagination, what was going on real time. human connectivity and leadership qualities. Those are the skills that are most valued and pay the highest.

Authority: Impressive!

Mike: Agreed. Nothing against MBAs, I wish I had one. But Mike: There is no reason for us to be disconnected. I think at the end of the day, the values we need in our company are we’re way ahead of our time from that perspective because people who can be nice to each other. People that can care not only can we share experiences like the Grand Opening, about each other. Folks that can communicate with each or talk one-on-one, we also have an internal social media other. We’re not looking for that person that wants to sit in a setup through Microsoft which lets folk from anywhere cubicle or sit in their office and close the door. We’re looking in the country post on Yammer and ask questions or join for somebody that can special interest groups. communicate and can For example, we’ve got a “The values we need in our company culture committee that has have a conversation. are people who can be nice to each 35 members who come Authority: Conversations from all levels within other. People that can care are an endangered species corporate and field. So, I about each other. Folks that can today... think the divide between communicate with each other.”

Mike: And becoming corporate and our field more so. I know this from offices is non-existent at my kids. I don’t think Hair Club. kids talk anymore. I say that, because I look at my cellphone Authority: We’ve been talking about your corporate and bill and there are hardly any minutes used, but there are business philosophy. Let’s switch now to the consumer. The thousands of texts! That’s not good for us in the long term. market is changing faster than ever. More information, more I think that applies to the business world as well. Nothing

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019 35

Main conference room

choices, more cross marketing opportunities. How are you responding?

Mike: On the front end we’re looking at a company that was founded on the infomercial and later moved to different forms of TV advertising. However, over the last few years we’ve moved to about 50/50 digital versus TV. In this fastchanging media environment, we have to be agile and keep experimenting. We give close attention to things like, branding, public relations and social media. We’ve explored billboards in certain locations and done local or XM radio in a number of markets. We even have started to podcast with two well-known names in the radio industry, Conan O’Brien and Howard Stern. We’re trying to reach people we wouldn’t have reached before. So, that’s one way. The other way is what I mentioned earlier; we’ve made it very simple for Hair Club to have a strong and positive interaction with clients through our App, through customer service lines and through social media. Our customers get close personal attention from their stylists, and if they have a problem there’s always a computer they can go to.

Authority: Is there anything else you would like hair loss professionals to know about Hair Club, where it’s going and what it represents?

Mike: Regardless of whether we think of ourselves as a leader or the largest provider in North America, I’d like the industry to know that I believe we can get all come together to create something bigger. I think there is an opportunity for us to do things together and get there faster? I’m going to butcher the quote but, “If you want to go fast, go by yourself.

If you want to go far, take people with you.” I think this is where the industry is now. The smaller players need the help they can get from bigger players. And as a big player, we can probably learn from them to become more like an independent operator and reach out to folks in local markets.

Authority: What would your message be to a public that knows the old Hair Club? What would be your elevator pitch?

Mike: If you have a scalp, Hair Club is for you. Whether you have hair or not, we can help you. We’re not just a company that deals with male pattern baldness after your hair is gone. We’re a company that can help you whether you have hair loss or not. And we’re ready to help anyone and everyone including all ages.

Our branding effort is going to focus on hair, health and wellness.

IHA

36 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2019

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