2015 Spring

Business is Booming

Meet Rob Spurrell

Sy’s Corner

Being “The Face”

President, CEO Bosley

Lining Up for The General

Sy Sperling looks ahead

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Page 22

Page 20

Super-model shares all

The National Hair Journal

Volume 19 No 70

The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation

Capillus272™ FDA Clearance Miami, FL. 06/15 - Capillus, LLC has re-

Smartphones - Gateway to Health & Beauty

ceived 510(k) clearance from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for its Capillus272™ OfficePro, an in-office laser hair therapy product proven to prevent hair loss and promote hair regrowth in adults who suffer with androgenic alopecia. A Miami-based medical device manufacturer.

Personal Care From Your Wrist or Pocket Murrieta, CA. 06/15 - According to industry estimates, 500 million smartphone users worldwide will be using their mobile devices to access a personal care or health care application by 2015, and by 2018, 50 percent of the more than 3.4 billion smartphone and tablet users will have downloaded mobile health applications.

These users include health care professionals, consumers, and patients.

Cerritos, CA. 03/15 - No it’s not April 1st.

The founder and president of Professional Hair Labs is not just the king of adhesives, he’s also a member of the DooWop Hall of Fame! On March 14 in the Cerritos Performing Arts Center, Howard and his group, “The Demensions” were formally inducted into the Hall of Fame after singing their hit, Over the Rainbow” which sold over 21/2 million copies in 1960 and skyrocketed to #1 in the charts!

Love Your Curls

Howard Margolin Sings!

Helping curly girls take pride in their hair UK, 06/15 - Just 10% of women with curly hair feel proud of their hair, and just 4 in 10 curly-haired girls believe their hairstyle is beautiful. Inspired to change this perception, Dove Hair has launched the “Love Your Curls” book – a poetic tribute to curly hair. Rob Candelino, Vice President of Unilever Hair Care, said: “At Dove, we have a long history of empowering women and girls through our self-esteem project and the Love Your Curls book is very much a part of that commitment.

Hair Treatment from Stem Cells San Diego, CA. 07/14 - Histogen, a San Diego biotech company, is developing an injectable treatment to promote hair growth from stem cells. Histogen’s Hair Stimulating Complex (HSC) is in clinical development as an injectable treatment for male pattern and female diffuse hair loss. In two Company-sponsored clinical trials, HSC has resulted in statistically significant increases across hair growth parameters, including hair count, density and thickness. In addition, the treatment has shown efficacy in difficult-to-treat patient groups, including women, older subjects and those with temporal recession region hair loss.

TM

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Spring/Summer 2015

Home Again

Energizer Returns to On Rite Ft. Lauderdale, FL - Lance Centofanti

(“The Energizer”) has joined Hair Visions International as Vice President of Sales and Marketing. Lance will be responsible for strategic messaging related to the On Rite, GemTress, UltraTress, and Simplicity brands.

Lance believes the best way to a better future is to help create it.

Beauty Keeps Getting Greener

L’Oreal Commits to Sustainability 05/15 - L’Oreal USA has reduced C02 emis-

sions by 57°/o in the 10 years up to the end of 2014 - a saving of nearly 60,000 metric tons of carbon dioxide. Launched in 2013, its “Sharing Beauty With All” program reflects L’Oreal’s commitment to improve every part of its value chain - from research to operations. The company has pledged that 100% of its products will have an environmental or social benefit by 2020 and intends to use its influence to encourage consumers also to make sustainable choices.

Another Handheld

NutraStim Pro Debuts at Cosmoprof LAS VEGAS, NV. 07/15 - A new FDAcleared hair restoration device, the NutraStim Pro Laser Hair Comb, was announced at this year’s Cosmoprof North America.

Available at half the cost of leading competitors, NutraStim seeks to attract men and women seeking an economical hair loss solution.

An additional differentiating feature of NutraStim is that it is a comb without teeth. NutraStim’s design was based on the concept of a large ‘open treatment chamber’ that directs three rows of laser light to the scalp without the intervention of plastic teeth.

2

The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

Editorial About giving - This week a US marine came home for the last time. He was killed when his helicopter crashed while delivering blankets and medical supplies to earthquake victims in Nepal. He was from my hometown and families with children, kids with skateboards, people on their way home from work lined the streets to pay their respects as his casket passed by. They waited silently for three hours as the sun went down and the temperature dropped. No one moved. And as I stood on the curb with the other families, I got to thinking... we all have a responsibility to give back, to share something of ourselves. Some people like Marine Sgt Seaman give their future. But we can give something too. We may come home at night and our children will always have a father or mother, but we can change lives too. Maybe we can help save a relationship, jump-started a career or simply add to the world smile bank.

Every client who recovers his or her self-esteem is a force for good. We can be part of that. The lump in my throat last Wednesday night reminded me that, in our own individual way, we owe it to the Sgt Seamans to give what we can. Everyone has something to contribute.

Musical chairs - The New Year brought more changes than

usual to an already turbulent hair management market. Michael Ferrara joined HairUWear as VP, Marketing Director, Rob Spurrell moved into the corner office as president of Bosley. Hair Club got a new president too and Michael Leigh announced that he was leaving Follea. Michael is replaced

by Chris Shippam, but repeated phone calls to Follea inquiring about the change of management were not returned, leaving us to speculate what is going on behind those closed doors. Meanwhile, Michael has followed his heart and created a new company to cater specifically to men, women and children suffering from medical hair loss. The company is called “Jolie Chameleon” and its slogan is “Adapt Beautifully.” The Journal met with Michael at the annual NAAF conference (full report next issue) and had an opportunity to meet the management team. We wish them all good fortune. The rumor mill has not been silent either, and we hear people asking if New Image and OnRite are going to merge and even speculation about who will replace Andy Wright when he retires. Gossip aside, and to end this paragraph on a more concrete note, in this issue we feature a special interview with Kat Zahnow who joined Hair Art as their new marketing director earlier this year. Kat was previously with Jon Renau. In this article, Kat outlines her plans for building a premium customer service division, taking advantage of the company’s inventory of European hair. Finally, the Hair Journal takes you to Bosley’s penthouse suite in Beverly Hills where you will meet Rob Spurrell and learn about his plans to advance the world’s largest cosmetic surgery group.

Nanometers on the rampage - The cold laser market is heating up. Our PR in-tray is filling up with announcements from our laser friends as light therapy continues to gain traction in the hair loss market. The most recent announcements come from Capillus, where company president, Carlos Piña has secured FDA clearance for his Capillus272™ designed to fit inside a baseball cap or other soft headgear and the Capillus272 OfficePro, an in-office laser hair therapy product with 272 hood-mounted low level laser diodes on a convenient stand. Capillus is expanding internationally and will be exhibiting at the upcoming International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) Scientific Conference in Boston in September. Dr. Shelley Friedman is medical director.

Whither China? When Hiking acquired New Image and

OnRite, they promised to stand back and let local management continue to make the marketing decisions. But a glance at your newspaper headlines will reveal that China is in an assertive mood these days - politically, geographically and commercially. Which leads us to wonder how much longer the hands-off posture will last. Or could it be that this is already changing in the boardroom and we just don’t see it yet? Beijing has made no secret of its desire to move from a low-cost manufacturing base to a higher margin marketing and intellectual property platform. Should China begin to flex its muscles, we would expect to see more online marketing, more sales direct to the consumer and increased supplier/distributor consolidation. What do you think? We invite you to share your concerns and observations by writing to us at info@NationalHairJournal.com.

Hard copy or digital - You choose - For the last six months,

The Journal has been digitizing sixteen years of past issues.

For now, they are available as PDf’s (images) on your iPad or iPhone, but already this will allow you to read The Journal anywhere; the train, the office, the bathroom... Meanwhile, we are converting all those pages into text files that you will be able to search by keyword, subject or author. As you can imagine, this is a time consuming task, but we hope to have it completed shortly.

Heart warming - My neighbor is a Sergeant-Major is the US

marines. He has been through a lot. Now his wife is undergoing chemotherap and is losing her hair. I mentioned this to one of my friends, a Hair Journal advertiser, and he immediately offered to provide a free wig to help her through this difficult period. And no, they wouldn’t hear of me paying for it. It’s things like this that this industry special. A heartfelt thank-you to this manufacturer - you know who you are!

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

Meet Rober t Spurrell

President and Chief Executive Officer, Bosley

Robert Spurrell joined Bosley nearly 20 years ago in the Marketing Department. He served as Marketing Director and Vice President of Sales and Marketing, before progressively assuming responsibility for the operations aspect of the business. As Director of Business Development and Vice President of Operations, he was instrumental in expanding Bosley into over 70 offices in North America and in recruiting many of the Bosley Medical Group affiliated physicians.

Most recently as Chief Operating Officer, Rob was involved in the acquisition of Hair Club (USA), Inc. by Bosley’s parent company, Aderans Co., Ltd., and oversaw the operations and marketing of the entire Bosley organization. Prior to joining Bosley, Rob received a BA in Economics from the University of California, Santa Barbara, and an MBA from the W.P. Carey School at Arizona State University. With his recent appointment as Chief Executive Officer of Bosley in January 2015, Rob is committed to maintaining Bosley’s reputation and vision in the field of cosmetic surgery.

National Hair Journal: Rob, we have watched you move

steadily up the company to the corner office where we are meeting today. What brought a young business graduate into the hair loss marketplace?

Robert Spurrell: In some ways I would say I was destined to be at Bosley. In one of my English courses back in college, we had to pull random topics out of a hat for a research paper. I pulled out hair loss. I had a full, 19 year-old head of hair, but I found myself writing a term paper about losing your hair. At that time, there weren’t a lot of options out there, there was no Rogaine, it was just Minoxidil. Then, there were all the different lotions and potions. I interviewed some of the bigger companies, read a lot of articles, and began to explore hair transplantation. My studies led me to a company called Bosley located in Los Angeles. They sent me an information package and I was able to speak to them directly before writing my paper. So that’s how I got into this field, not knowing where it was all going to lead me. I got an ‘A’ on my term paper - it’s actually on the wall behind me! [Laughter].

NHJ: Congratulations!

RS: As fate would have it, many years later, in 1996, I was

working in publishing and print advertising and Bosley was looking for someone to run their print campaigns. At that time, the majority of patients found us through magazines or newspapers. Now this was a world I’d worked in and knew well. Better yet, they were looking for somebody here in Los Angeles and I was looking to move to LA to continue a relationship with a girl.

NHJ: So the stars were truly aligned!

RS: During the interview process there was me and one other guy who was much more qualified; He was an MBA from a top school and I was this young guy in my early 20’s with a few years experience in publishing and advertising. Well, as fate would have it, I happened to bring my term paper with me and when they asked, “Do you know anything about the company?” I said, “Yes, I wrote a term paper about it some five years ago.” And they were so blown away that this young kid had written a paper and used Bosley as the focus on hair transplantation that I ended up getting the job over this guy who was probably far more qualified.

NHJ: Serendipity knows no limits.

RS: It worked out for everyone, because the media scene was changing when I came aboard and we got into television. I took over all the media management for television and became Director of Marketing.

NHJ: Your patient support program expanded to include regional consultation centers. What was the thinking behind this?

RS: When I joined the company, there were two people in the Marketing Department here in Beverly Hills. We were highly centralized. But as I analyzed the market, I came up with a satellite consultation office concept. John Ohanesian, the CEO at the time, was enthralled with the idea of opening up offices in all these new markets, so I spent a good two years touring 47 states and opening new Bosley surgical and consultation offices. After setting up the surgical centers, I came back into marketing and became VP of Marketing and took on the role of VP of Operations as well.

NHJ: What were the “operational” challenges?

RS: We were justifiably proud of our surgical techniques, but we wanted to deliver excellence on all levels. So I introduced the “Ritz Carlton Standards of Gold Service.” At a national management meeting, I invited Ritz Carlton to come in and explain to our clinical supervisors and office managers how outstanding service is done outside of Bosley.

We assume we’re the best. We feel we are the best, but we need to look outside ourselves to see how to improve. So we brought Ritz Carlton in to show us how they do their world class service.

NHJ: You were talking earlier about opening new medical centers. How do you maintain those high standards nationwide?

RS: It’s all about people. Our physicians must have the background, in terms of years of experience, certifications, etc. The second element is they must be able to work in a consultative environment. Somebody may have been a great heart surgeon, but it doesn’t mean they can empathize with a patient who’s not facing a life or death situation. This

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is elective, cosmetic surgery, and they must engage with and understand every patient. This isn’t a ‘Yes’ or ‘No’ procedure. This is an agreement between the patient and the doctor in terms of expectations and what the doctor can and cannot accomplish. It’s important for the doctor to be able to explain that to the patient and agree on short and long term expectations. Not all doctors have that. Most don’t.

NHJ: If a physician joins Bosley, and he/she is well qualified, do you take extra steps to make that person a “Bosley doctor?”

RS: Without exception. Our doctors have to become the best hair restoration surgeons clinically possible. Our doctors spend several months living in Los Angeles and training at our headquarters in Beverly Hills. Other organizations may offer three-day courses in hair transplantation, but that’s not the way we do it. You have to live and breathe our procedures and our commitment to quality. That’s the requirement for all physicians that join Bosley. It’s been this way since its inception. Cosmetic surgery is a lot different from general surgery, where it’s a kind of a ‘Yes’ or a ‘No’ situation; you do it or you don’t. With hair restoration, it’s all about meeting expectations and what can or can’t be accomplished. I don’t believe there is a more intensive training process in terms of hair restoration than Bosley has for its doctors.

NHJ: You’ve been talking about surgical excellence, but in a very competitive marketplace, do you also have to compete on price and marketing?

RS: Absolutely. Many hair restoration practitioners are mom and pop setups, with many of them doing it part-time.

We’re seeing more part time hair restoration practitioners and doctors dabbling in hair. While it’s been that way for many years, it’s grown exponentially over the last three to five years. So now you’re now not only competing with practices doing hair full-time, but also with surgeons or even your local internists who may happen to do one hair transplant a month. They may talk the talk and tell a similar consultative story to the patient in terms of the basic science, but they don’t have the surgical experience. Experience is everything when it comes to artistry and technique. There are no shortcuts. It takes a doctor a long time to see enough patients, enough heads, and enough results to know the optimal solution in all situations. Patients may have more choices today, but they are not always the best choices. Just because it’s easier for doctors to get into this field than it used to be, it doesn’t make it better for the patient.

NHJ: Is it frustrating when you offer an outstanding product, delivered by outstanding physicians not to be able to display those outstanding results?

RS: As head of marketing for Bosley, one of my biggest frustrations is that most nights on TV, you’re watching Bosley patients. Some of the biggest names the world has known are Bosley patients, but we are strict about confidentiality.

That’s part of our commitment. We’re beginning to see men become more comfortable about having hair restoration, but you still, typically, don’t see the big names coming out about it. It’s frustrating, because you want them to stand on the rooftops and say, “Hey, I’ve had my hair restored and it’s made my career better” or simply,” I feel great again!” but

The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

most of celebrities and sports stars understandably tend to keep it private, or their management teams say, “Hey, it’s not in our PR plan.” I think it’s wonderful how women are much more open in terms of speaking about what they’ve had done. You constantly see female celebrities speak of self-improvement things they’ve done, but men are still struggling out of the dark ages. The exciting part of the future; however, is that more and more men are coming out about it. Last year we had Joey Fatone from NSYNC, which has sold tens of millions of records, share his news. He was very open about his procedure.

NHJ: And of course, on the world stage, we had Wayne Rooney, the soccer player, who is very proud of his hair transplant.

RS: Wayne Rooney; also, Christopher Knight from The Brady Bunch, a well-loved individual and great actor. Those are great things, not only for Bosley and other practitioners of hair restoration, but it’s a great thing for men and self-esteem in general. Men have become more comfortable with the idea of taking active steps to make themselves look good. In the ‘60s and ‘70s you saw only the upper class male diving into fashion. Now the common man pays attention to what they’re wearing, and is not critiqued by other men. All of a sudden, it became a little more acceptable for guys to talk about fitness tips and esthetic tips in terms of hair styling - conversations that never would have happened a decade ago. So it’s an exciting time.

“No one comes close to the Bosley’s experience in medical hair restoration” NHJ: It’s to Bosley’s credit that not only do you respect the

confidentiality of your patients, but you also don’t say, “We have lots of film stars and sports personalities who we have treated, but we’re not talking about it.” I think you’ve shown a lot of circumspection and a lot of respect for your customers.

RS: We respect confidentiality and we don’t want to encourage gossip or speculation.

NHJ: As more people feel comfortable talking about their procedure, that can only expand the business. Where do you see surgical hair replacement in say two, three years time?

RS: Obviously I see both Bosley and the whole industry growing. As the procedures, the naturalness, and the ease of the service availability become commonplace, the overall marketplace is going to grow exponentially.

NHJ: Public acceptance is clearly going to be a key factor.

RS: Hair restoration surgery going to become much less of a psychological hurdle than it was throughout its growth curves in the ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s. In the past, it was last stop at the end of your pursuit of a hair loss solution. If all other options failed, you ended up at hair transplantation.

Things are different now, especially with the younger patients. They’re looking at it a lot earlier; “I can stay ahead Continued on next page

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

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of this now and I can tell people about it or I can’t. It’s my choice.” It’s not a big deal. These are simple outpatient procedures where you can go back to work the next day.

NHJ: That was going to be our next question. We see Botox parties. We see breast augmentations where the women are going back to work the next morning. Do you see a similar acceleration in hair transplant procedures?

RS: I think so. Maybe not parties, but definitely more conversations. The microscopic techniques we are using today result in faster healing and recovery. Newer technologies like laser therapy can play and important role also. I had a procedure myself and I was at a wedding within a week and there were no questions. I felt great, looked great, and no one had ever questioned if I’d had something done. I trimmed down my hair prior to the procedure and people thought I had a great looking haircut for the wedding!

“You must do it right to remain a leader.”

NHJ: You mentioned light therapy as an adjunct to sur-

gery. What has been the experience of Bosley?

RS: That’s better addressed by our medical director, Dr. Washenik, but we’re definitely advocates of laser therapies as a modality for treating hair loss. We’ve observed this technology over many years and we are proponents for any of the FDA-cleared products.

NHJ: We noted earlier that you have an extensive media and operations background. Is marketing a critical element in maintaining Bosley’s market leadership?

RS: We’ve been the market leader for years, in terms of medical hair restoration. The marketing has definitely been a component of that, in terms of reaching the consumer, whether it’s through traditional print channels, growing into television, and now digital efforts. That’s how you build any practice or any brand. It’s helped grow us, but at the end of the day, we’ve done over 250,000 procedures. If we weren’t doing them with the highest level of excellence, it doesn’t matter how good your marketing or advertising is, word gets around and the results speak for themselves. You must do it right to remain a leader.

NHJ: What is the company slogan?

RS: “The World’s Most Experienced Hair Restoration Expert.”

NHJ: And that’s based on the 250,000 procedures?

RS: No one comes close to the Bosley’s experience in medical hair restoration.

NHJ: It has been said that Bosley represents 15% of hair transplant procedures in the United States.

RS: Roughly.

NHJ: Looking ahead, is there a personal mission that you bring to the company? Something you would like to leave as a legacy?

RS: I’m two decades into this and have helped grow Bosley into the leader it is today. In terms of the next two decades, I’d like to see Bosley continue to further establish its role as the leader in the category, but I’d also like to further estab-

7

lish medical hair restoration as a comfortable option for men and women. You spoke of earlier about Botox parties and skin rejuvenation that are becoming very commonplace.

Take teeth whitening. Everybody does it nowadays. Ten, fifteen years ago, you didn’t know a lot of friends who whitened their teeth. Crest brought white strips to the table and changed the game. So as the techniques become much less invasive, the procedures themselves become commonplace.

Bosley can be a conduit to change the entire industry for everyone and make hair restoration an everyday event and not one that is considered a big deal. It should be there with teeth whitening and dermabrasion - it’s just another option for somebody to feel better about themselves.

NHJ: Is the company open to other anti-aging solutions?

RS: Absolutely. Historically, our focus has been hair, but hair is a part of skin and that’s a big market. We’ve seen time and time again men improve their hair, and go on to improve the face. It’s like hair is the launching pad. Once you get your hair back, it frames your face; you see that canvas changing and that gets you excited about doing other things.

We see thousands of patients that have gone on from hair to having their teeth done and having their skin rejuvenated.

It’s great to put people on that path.

NHJ: You offer a wet goods line and a hair fiber or cosmetic concealer. Could you be tiptoeing into the cosmetic market?

RS: It’s not our current plan. But yes, we absolutely love our Bosley Professional Strength line, as do our patients. And the hair fibers are a great adjunct for our patients - both men and women. We’re constantly exploring, where we can go in terms of esthetics for men and women, particularly on the medical side. We’re a medical practice. That’s our base, and we’ll keep it focused in that direction. We are always looking to expand into new markets. We have 23 surgical markets and this year we’re going to expand into three more; one on the West Coast, one on the East Coast, and one in the South. Over the coming years, we’re going to expand into new markets, whether it’s through organic growth, or through affiliations and/or acquisitions. We want to continue building that platform. We want to be in every market for the consumer. I think a big barrier to entry for potential patients is that we’re not in all 50 states. We are for consultations, but they might have to travel to another state to have a Bosley hair restoration procedure. So, how do we lower that barrier? Well, it’s to be present in those markets and my job is to get us there.

NHJ: Your sister company, Hair Club, is under separate management, but clearly there are cross marketing benefits.

How do they work?

RS: I have an excellent working relationship with Carlos Sariol, CEO of our sister company, Hair Club for Men and Women. We both have a similar vision in terms of the future, which is obviously helping more patients and/or clients with hair loss, whether it’s through medical means or non-medical means. We feel they’re the best in terms of non-surgical options and we feel that Bosley is the best in terms of surgical options. Both groups have the most advanced research into whatever non-surgical or surgical options are out there.

We are also constantly testing new avenues to make sure that whatever we bring to the consumer is tried and true.

Continued on next page

The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

There will always be a percentage of patients Bosley sees continue to satisfy only a small percentage of the people who are simply not surgical hair restoration candidates, so suffering from hair loss. Why is that? And what can we do it’s wonderful to have an option in every state in the country about it? to send them to a non-surgical center.

RS: Hair loss happens to just about everyone at some point NHJ: How do you manage those choices? Do Bosley and in their lifetime. It’s somewhat of a private topic, but becoming more open as time Hair Club ever find themselves in competition? advances.

As the information and entertainment RS: If they’re a surgical media turn digital, people hair restoration candiare researching and learndate, that’s our business, ing more about their hair and that’s what we recloss options than ever beommend to the patient. fore. That will accelerate But if our doctor feels that as the digital world continthey’d be better off going ues to unfold. Entities like the non-medical route, Bosley and Hair Club will we then might refer them play a key role in educatto Hair Club. We made ing the public and creating sure our doctors got to awareness of the differknow the Hair Club cenent solutions that are now ters and the stylists in their available. That will help local markets.

They’ve the entire industry expand. met them and continue People need to see that to have business meetings From left to right - Rob Spurrell, Ashley Hellman, Erica Munoz. there are real options, that arand engagements. Our doctors and counselors are confident when they send somebody en’t a big deal and that are available at a price point they can over to Hair Club that they’re going to get good service. And, afford. The amount of information the average under 40-year of course, the same logic works in reverse. Hair Club meets old consumer takes in today is vast. Getting the word out is with thousands of potential clients and they use their best so important. The International Society of Hair Restoration judgment to decide what’s right for men and women who Surgeons (ISHRS) does a nice job in terms of promoting the come to them for advice. A good portion of those clients hair restoration industry.

NHJ: Is there an equivalent on the non-medical side? actually end up coming over to Bosley.

NHJ: So this is truly a win-win for both companies... and RS: Clearly Hair Club, but the non-medical side has been for Aderans?

RS: It’s a really nice synergy that’s growing every month.

Last month, a record number of Bosley consultations originated from Hair Club. We’re proud to say that because before this, they might have simply hit the end of the road and said, “Well, unfortunately, I’m just going to have to live with hair loss.”

NHJ: The relationship that you describe works well when fragmented for years. It’s had a few big players come and go, the two companies share a common goal, but what about but it remains fragmented and needs to revolutionize itself small, family-owned studios and clinics? If a non-surgical so that consumers of all ages understand, “Hey, it’s not just studio invests a lot of money to generate a lead, but decides medical. It’s non-medical. There’s a solution for me wherthat person would be better served by hair transplant sur- ever I’m at in my hair loss path or timeline of life.” gery, all that marketing and money goes out the window. NHJ: If the “hair fairy” could grant you one wish, what They lose an expensive lead and the doctor cannot recom- would it be? pense them for the referral.

RS: If the “hair fairy” could grant me one wish… an exRS: Yes, we can’t pay for patient referrals. cellent question... [Laughter] it would be opening up conNHJ: So what’s the answer? Is there something you can do sumer awareness. I wish more individuals that have restored for them, or do they simply get a warm feeling because they their hair, whether through surgical or non-surgical means, “did the right thing?” would open up and come out about it. I think it would be RS: It’s illegal for a medical organization to pay for a referral. a game changer. Hair loss has always been a taboo topic, We can’t do that. We’re all in this together, in terms of trying and if I had one wish, it would become less of a taboo topto provide a solution to men and women suffering from hair ic. Hair restoration should be on par with whitening your loss, so Bosley is exploring alternative routes of affiliation, teeth or going to get a hair cut, with the mentality of, “Hey, whether it be non-surgical hair restoration companies or I’m going to go do this. I’m going to get my hair styled. I’m even other doctors that meet our standards. We’ll be looking going to get my hair colored. I’m going to go get my hair at that over the coming years. restored. Yeah, I’m going to ad d some hair with Bosley this NHJ: In spite of the great work and new technologies, we weekend.” That would be great!

“Hair restoration should be on par with whitening your teeth or going to get a hair cut”

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

to the Wilhelmina Agency. Wilhelmina was one of my

Beyond the Lights

An Intimate Interview with Supermodel, Catherine Roberts idols and one of the most beautiful women on the planet; she was the original “Supermodel.” I walked into her agency where the walls were lined with Wilhelmina’s spectacular magazine covers. The receptionist looked at me and went straight back to get Wilhelmina. Wilhelmina took me to her office, told me I reminded her of herself when she started modeling, and signed me on the spot. I’ll never forget her words, “Great. Let’s get you started.” I had my first commercial within two weeks of signing the contract.

NHJ: It’s not supposed to be that easy.

“You learn early on that rejection is a big part of the job and you build thick skin” CR: It was amazing and thrilling wto meet my idol and join

In the unforgiving world of lights and cameras, you don’t get second chances to look flawless. Catherine Roberts, one of the world’s most photographed “Beauty” models, knows this all too well. She has appeared in major publications such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar and her resume includes an impressive list of long running campaigns for L’Oreal and Charles of the Ritz, as well as Max Factor, Revlon, Coty, Clairol, Helena Rubenstein, Saks Fifth Avenue, Almay, Elizabeth Arden and Avon, amongst others. In this interview, Catherine shares her supermodel secrets and gives us an exclusive look into the lifestyle of a model and how you too can achieve timeless beauty.

National Hair Journal: We are privileged this afternoon to

be drinking champagne with Catherine Roberts; a name that you may recognize, because she has been a international fashion model, and the ‘Face’ of leading beauty products around the world. Catherine, what does it take to break into the exclusive world of fashion and beauty?

Catherine Roberts: My mother wanted me to work on my posture, to stand tall and always be proud of my height, so she enrolled me in a modeling course at a local modeling school. That experience as a teen opened the door to a glamorous new world and I felt at home there. I looked at all the teen fashion magazines and began reading Vogue and Bazaar. I loved the makeup, the beauty and fashion and I loved the models. I’m not quite certain where I found the courage, but I thought, “I’d like to do that, I’d like to be a model.” So I set off for New York with no test photographs… absolutely nothing. With just $400 in my wallet I hopped on a plane and checked in to the Barbizon Hotel, which was a hotel for women at that time. My first appointment was at the Ford Model Agency where I was promptly turned down. I was too tall, too brunette (blondes were Eileen Ford’s look) and not skinny enough. My ego was a bit bruised, but I went directly

her agency. I’d walked in with no test photos, nothing. I was fortunate enough to look like Wilhelmina herself so she decided to, “Give this girl a chance.”

NHJ: What was your first modeling assignment?

CR: As a new model, you build your portfolio by doing test photo shoots with as many photographers as the agency can schedule, so those tests are really your “first assignments.” I was thrilled to book my first TV commercial while I was still testing. My first beauty ad was for Almay cosmetics. My face and my bone structure took very well to makeup, so I started working right away, which is unusual. It’s more typical for agencies to send new models to Europe to test and build their portfolios with editorial work. They would then return to the States with a polished portfolio and book advertising.

I was fortunate to book beauty work right away and skipped that early phase. Of course, the down side was that I ended up spending little time in Europe. That probably kept me out of trouble, but also kept me from lots of fun. (smiling) NHJ: You must have been mentally tough because you’re constantly going to casting sessions or auditions and you can’t win every time. You have to get used to people saying, “No, you’re not quite right.” How did you handle that as a young woman?

CR: You learn early on that rejection is a big part of the job and you begin to build a thick skin. You realize that it’s not personal and you are going to get the jobs you are right for.

NHJ: Is it a fun life... or a tough life even for people who make it?

CR: Honestly, it’s a combination of both. Since my work was primarily for cosmetics or beauty as it was called; I was very conscientious. I rarely stayed out late, so my visits to Studio 54 were less frequent than many models. I didn’t drink a lot. I was very careful to get enough sleep, eat healthily and try to live a balanced life. In terms of the work environment, it was super exciting to spend hours with talented, creative, fun people playing dress up, experimenting with

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the newest hair and makeup styles and ultimately being on set with brilliant photographers telling you how wonderful you looked. Pretty good job description!

NHJ: But...

CR: Of course, there were times where the clothes didn’t fit or the hair fell flat or the studio vibe wasn’t as much fun as at other shoots. But all in all, what a fabulous way to make a living!

NHJ: Describe some of the glamorous experiences. I imagine them sending a Rolls Royce to drive you to the yacht for a champagne party after a successful shoot.

CR: [Laughs] Rarely a Rolls; but I certainly took more than one trip to the Hamptons or the newest restaurant in a limousine. I was at Studio 54 the night Halston threw Elizabeth Taylor’s birthday party. As Elizabeth and Halston were wheeled out on a platform carpeted with lush gardenias, her beautiful black & white photographs flashed on giant movies screens all around the room. Now that was a glamorous moment I would never have experienced had I never modeled.

NHJ: I’m sure there are more colorful anecdotes that we will try and tease out of you some other time...

CR: [Laughs] NHJ: You used the word ‘discipline’ earlier, and staying beautiful does require discipline. Although you were gorgeous as a young woman, were you conscious of the fact that this beauty had to be protected?

“It’s never too early to start thinking about the way you want to look at 50” CR: Oh, absolutely. No question about it. It was a full time

commitment to look as good as you could and do whatever was needed to maintain it.

NHJ: What advice would you give a young woman reading this interview?

CR: I would say, be careful about sun exposure. Natural Vitamin D from the sun is necessary, but protect your skin with a natural protectant with as few chemicals as possible. Be conscious about what you put in and on your body. Read labels on your food and eat organic whenever possible. Cut sugar out of your diet. I know that’s a hard one, but I’ve been off refined sugar for almost five years now. I understand refined sugars are in everything, but when you have a choice, move away from the cookie! It makes a big difference in the way you look. Finally, I’m very careful about what I put on my skin since so much is absorbed through the skin. It’s never too early to start thinking about the way you want to look at 50!

NHJ: What about your hair? How did you care for hair that was blow-dried, colored and styled for every assignment?

The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

CR: My sister would say I have the good hair gene [Laughs]

but like my skin, I’ve always taken care of my hair with conditioning treatments and nourishing shampoos. I’m still modeling and on a typical set today everything is hot - hot irons, hot flat irons, hot rollers. Everywhere there’s something that could harm your hair. So I continue to use deep conditioning treatments and I search for products with the healthiest ingredients available; avoiding harsh and toxic chemicals.

And of course finding the right hairdresser who will give the right cut for my type hair is crucial and lucky!

NHJ: After a career learning what works for you, can you share the products you’re using today?

CR: For the past year or so, I have been using products from a company called NeoGenesis and I am extremely happy with the results. I have very sensitive skin, so first I always do my “litmus test.” Do my eyes get red... are my eyes swelling? I’ve had absolutely no reactions from any of the NeoGenesis products, other that they’re making my skin look fabulous. That’s my secret these days.

NHJ: These are new products that work in a totally different way. What’s special about them?

CR: I’m not a scientist, but I understand these products utilize cell regeneration. The creams and serums I apply activate the healing and rejuvenation properties already in my skin. The theory behind the company is to work with your body at the cellular level to help your skin heal and look better. That’s probably not the way that a scientist would put it, but that’s my layman’s explanation. The products I’m using are having a very real and positive effect, so I’m extremely happy with my skin care regimen these days.

NHJ: Let’s go back into your modeling career; tell us about some of the brands you represented.

CR: Well, I was the face of L’Oreal and later, Charles of the Ritz.

NHJ: What does it mean to be, “The Face?”

CR: Sometimes a client will use only one model for a period of time. That model is the visual representation of the company. Her photos appear in double and single page spreads in major publications like Vogue, Harpers Bazaar and Glamour. I was fortunate to represent both L’Oreal and later Charles of the Ritz.

NHJ: So you were recognized wherever you went.

CR: Yes, at times. I remember going in to a drug store when I was visiting my mom in Florida, and my photo was probably on ten different counter cards. Charles of the Ritz, L’Oreal, Coty, Almay. I can’t remember all of the companies, but my mother saved all the cards and I still have them.

NHJ: Did you have to live behind your Jackie Kennedy dark glasses?

CR: No. It wasn’t that extreme. There were times when I would go out and someone would say, “Oh, aren’t you a model?” or, “Haven’t I seen your face before?” but I didn’t have one of those recognizable names. I married and left the Continued on next page

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

business before I became a recognizable name.

NHJ: Who were some of the other companies and photographers?

CR: I modeled for virtually every cosmetic company you could name from that time period; Charles of the Ritz, which was bought out by Revlon; I worked for Avon almost every week, I was in countless Avon catalogues and the list goes on... Coty, L’Oréal, Helena Rubenstein, Aziza, Elizabeth Arden, L’Oreal. I was also fortunate to work with legendary photographers like Richard Avedon and Hiro, even Bert Stern, who is well known for shooting the last photos of Marilyn Monroe.

Sultry Summer Hair Tips It’s time to ditch the winter beanies and show off your lavish locs this summer! But before letting your hair flow, check out these tips for the sexiest and healthiest summer hair.

Don’t Leave Without Protection

NHJ: You’ve been telling us about what you did in the past, Just as you protect your skin from the harmful and ageing

but you forgot to mention that you’re still in demand today.

Clearly the commitment you made to protect and maintain your appearance was a wise investment.

CR: Yes, I’m proud to say I’m still modeling. LA Models, and LA Talent represent me on the West Coast, and I’m on the talent boards of other great agencies around the country and in Europe. I’m working once again in television commercials and enjoying being a part of the audition and callback process. So, yes, I’m working again and in many ways I am more excited to be modeling now than ever before. I feel like I bring much more to the table. There is a strong interest in models “of a certain age” these days, and I am proud to be among them.

NHJ: You have lived a privileged life of glamour. Do you feel the need to give something back?

CR: Yes, I’ve volunteered in several programs that are close to my heart. One of those is “Dress for Success,” a truly worthwhile non-profit organization that provides interview suits, confidence boosts, and career development to low-income women. It’s a privilege to be able to help women, to feel good about themselves and ultimately enrich their life experiences at whatever age and wherever they may currently be in life. I’m grateful that my history and experience allow me to play a small part in their transformations.

NHJ: I could think of no nicer note to finish on. Is there anything else you would like to share?

CR: I was fortunate to have an interesting career and live in New York during an exciting time in the city. Life was a fun, fabulous and glamorous adventure. Now I’m moving into a different stage in my life and I’m excited to recreate myself every day with today’s values, today’s look, and today wisdom. I feel like a new adventure has just begun.

effects of the sun, the same level of caution is needed for your hair. Invest in products with UV protection. High summer temps tend to leave the pores and scalp open, which allows for better product absorption – so make sure your skin and hair are pampered with products that have ingredients that are good for you. Another easy tip is to cover your tresses with a scarf or hat when you know that you’ll be enjoying a day out in the sun.

Show Your Hair Some Love

Swimming, styling and re-styling are all rigorous routines that can severely damage the hair. At least once a week, deep condition your hair to restore the moisture that’s been lost by harsh chemicals.

Protective Styles

Protective styles such as gentle up-dos are very popular and convenient during the summer. These type of styles are also healthy for your hair. Stay away from high and tight styles which can cause severe damage especially during the summer months when hair is more vulnerable to damage.

Chlorine Check

The summertime is filled with beach and pool parties. While these activities are fun and carefree you must be proactive before taking the dive. Saturate your hair with clean water followed by a light conditioner and put on a swim cap. After swimming rinse, wash and condition your hair thoroughly.

Conclude this hair regimen with a gentle scalp massage to exfoliate old cells, increase scalp circulation and help remove any product build-up.

Get Expert Advice

Consult your stylist to determine your hair type. Knowing this will help you to choose the best products for your hair.

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Safety - The Key Ingredient To Success

By Ryan Margolin, Professional Hair Labs

Almost 40 years after Congress passed the Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA), Americans are still being exposed to tens of thousands of chemicals that have never been safety tested by the EPA. These chemicals, more than 80,000 of them, are in the food we eat, the clothes we wear, the homes we live in and the personal care products that are supposed to make us look and feel better. Recently, large corporations within the hair & beauty industry have announced a “Safety Drive”. Johnson & Johnson, who are a shining example of this new focus, have promised to remove harmful substances such as formaldehyde by the end of 2015. This has been warmly accepted within the cosmetics industry.

Organisations such as safecosmetics.org have been calling for this sort of action for years; it seems that cosmetics companies are now listening.

Whilst it is encouraging that market leaders like J&J are now embracing client safety, it is the smaller, more agile companies that so often show the way. Within the hair addition industry, Professional Hair Labs, has been producing safe cosmetics for almost two decades. Located in both Florida, and with a sales and distribution hub in Ireland, Pro Hair Labs produces a 100% safe liquid adhesive/scalp treatment line and has become known as the “World Leader in Cosmetic Bonding.”

On each of their products, you will find a prominent “Safety First” logo, which is there to remind customers of the company’s dedication to safety.

Because of the publicity surrounding the need for safer cosmetics, customers are now learning about the dangers of poorly produced products. This has forced many larger corporations to change the way they do business or risk losing their clientele. Why? The reason is simple; many of these companies were producing products that sold at low cost.

They spent millions of dollars advertising their products to create sales, while spending drastically less on research and quality ingredients. Safety often took second place, meaning that whilst customers were buying products that they believed to be safe and effective, they were in fact exposing themselves to dangerous substances.

Pro Hair Labs has always been aware of the health risks associated with ingredients such as Latex, Hexane, Xylene, Toluene, Formaldehyde, Phthalates & Pesticides. And even though there are still many popular products on the market that continue to use these ingredients in their formulations, Pro Hair Labs has chosen to go in a different direction. For example, Hexane is a solvent that is still used in cosmetic products produced by several large corporations. Similar to Latex, most consumers are not aware of the dangers, but Hexane can cause nerve damage in feet, legs, hands, and arms... and can do so in a relatively short period of time.

While it is comforting to know that larger corporations are now beginning to phase out these harmful materials and consumers are heralding this drive as positive, Professional

The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

Hair Labs has been enacting this philosophy for nearly two decades. In fact, their products have never contained any of these substances. The company takes great pride in this.

But that kind of quality control doesn’t come easily. In fact, it typically takes 12 months of systematic testing before Pro Hair Labs will approve a new product for launch. Here are some of the research hurdles every brand must clear: • Formulation: The first stage of the process involves gathering formulations based on the functionality of the product being developed. They identify their customers’ issues and then create a product that will solve that problem.

• Research: the Company then researches and reviews studies based upon each individual ingredient that will be used to create the product. This research is used to ensure that every ingredient within the formulation is completely safe and is not associated with any health risks.

• Substitution: Then comes the stage where they review substitutes for each ingredient in the formulation. Pro Hair Labs is constantly seeking out ingredients that will will perform better, whilst being completely safe.

• Testing: Samples are then sent to their “tester” studios around the world. Each studio tests their products’ performance.

Detailed feedback is received on multiple aspects of the formulation. The purpose of sending samples to different parts of the world is to ensure they hold up in varying climate conditions as well as testing the effectiveness of the formulation..

• Feedback: Based upon the feedback received, the best-performing ingredients are selected and the final formulation is developed. They then resend this formulation back for one more round of testing. This ensures that the new product meets customer needs, while maintaining the company’s standards.

This level of testing is critical to Pro Hair Lab’s success. The ultra-safe “Ghost Range” has established Pro Hair Labs as a pioneer in the science of full-head bonding. Jim, “The General” Toscano, a hair specialist with over 38 years’ experience commented, “Ghost Bond worked perfectly on about 95% of my clients. I thought it was going to be the best bond that we would ever see, then comes Ghost Bond XL with extra moisture control, and now even my athletes are happy.” Toscano also uses ‘No Sweat’ with Ghost Bond and Ghost Mist finishing spray with Argan Oil, “Just a light mist adds a great shine to the hair.” This peace of mind is invaluable to salon owners like Toscano whose livelihood is at stake if a product fails to perform or causes harm to a client.

Safety is not the only thing that is important to Pro Hair Labs.

For the last eighteen months, the company has been contributing to a greener future by switching to redesigned packaging that is completely biodegradeable within 355 days.

There’s no doubt that their dedication to both the safety of their clients and the health of the planet are a winning combination.

To find out more about Professional Hair Labs incredible product line as well as the Ghost Range, please visit the company’s website at www.prohairlabs.com.

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

NeoGenesis Hair Thickening Serum with S2RM® Forvisiblydenser,healthy-lookinghair TM

Your clients are looking to science and medical research to maintain their health and vitality. Today, how you look is just as important as how you feel. And few things are more upsetting than thinning or fading hair. That’s why NeoGenesis Inc. has entered into an exclusive license agreement with BioRegenerative Sciences©, a world leader in adult stem cell therapeutic development, to bring its revolutionary new hair serum to market.

NeoGenesis Hair Thickening Serum is a new kind of hair enhancement product that is formulated to bring health and beauty to women with thinning or troubled hair:

• • • •

Visibly denser looking hair More body Lustrous, healthy appearance Deeper color

This advanced treatment is formulated using BioRegenerative Science’s core S2RM Technology that utilizes molecules from multiple stem cell types to mimic the natural healing and growth processes of the human body. These molecules are not available from any other source in the commercial marketplace. For the millions of women who struggle with hair loss, NeoGenesis HairThickening Serum represents a non-invasive and effective shift from conventional treatment options to one that uses the body’s own naturally occurring regenerative mechanisms.

NeoGenesis plans to distribute the new hair serum exclusively through hair replacement and restoration professionals so every customer receives the best professional support and guidance.

For more information, please call or email.

NeoGenesis Inc. • 12707 High Bluff Drive, Ste 200 • San Diego, CA 92130-2035 • 858.794.1421 • lnfo@NeoGenesis.com

David York & Associates

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY

Our Firm has been engaged to market a high- performing Apollo Dealership located inWestern Kentucky.

After a long and successful career, my Clients would like to retire in the next few years and have asked us to start the marketing process now so as to provide for an orderly and personal transition period so that the maximum number of current clients will be retained; more than 250 clients have purchased hair systems and other products in the last eighteen months.

My Client’s operation has consistently led its city size group of Apollo dealers and has ranked in the top 10 of all city size groups. Their studio is located in a comfortable, home-like setting, which is situated on the comer of a main street with high traffic counts and a side street (with adequate on-site parking in the back).

The Studio also houses 8 beauticians (paying booth rentals); all 8 have long, stable careers with 11 years in this location.

Please address expressions of interest to David York and Associates 101 East Second Street Owensboro, KY 42303.

Phone 1-270-684-4111, Email dayassoc@bellsouth.net All responses will be answered promptly. After identification and qualification of potential Buyers, pertinent financials and other infonnation will be made available. At an appropriate time, on-site visits can be arranged.

Respectfully, David A. York, CPA, CVA

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The Real Reason 50 Shades Of Gray Is Sexy…

The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

Children With Hair Loss Children face many pressures in today’s world including bullying, peer pressure, and social acceptance. Needless to say, it’s sometimes tough being a kid. So can you imagine if a child has the added pressure of facing a disease where they lose their hair and the pain and embarrassment that they may go through?

Well, we are happy to report that there is a guardian angel for these children, headquartered in South Rockwood, Michigan, which provides human hair replacement, care kits, hats, turbans with attachable hair, and styling services for children with medical hair loss - at no cost. The guardian angel’s name is Children With Hair Loss and we want to share with you the amazing things that they are doing to promote self-confidence and self-esteem to these children and their families.

Granny hair is a growing trend in 2015. Need proof? Just hashtag “#GrannyHair” on popular social media sites and you will see a plethora of pretty women, both young and old, wearing unique gray and silver locks. Popular celebrities like Rihanna, Lady Gaga and Kelly Osborne are also helping to boost sales by wearing this unique hair color.

Gray, a word typically associated with gloom, dreariness, and dullness, is now bringing new life to the hair color world. Clients are flocking to salons to have their stylist transform their hair with this new trend. Research shows that hair colorant sales within the silver shade groups are up 14 percent.

After a lifetime of coloring, highlighting, lowlighting and whatnot, it can be scary for your clients to imagine that they’ll never get to play with their hair color again if they choose the gray path. Well, that’s far from the truth. The influence of social media has paved the way of popularity for gray tresses, especially on Instagram, where models and other beauties snap selfies of themselves sporting the look, which proves that you can have plenty of fun with gray/silver shades and still look amazing.

Cindy Joseph, a model in her 60’s, expressed to the New York Daily News that her modeling career was rejuvenated when she allowed nature to take its course by letting her hair go totally gray, or silver as she likes to call it because she doesn’t like the negative connotation that the word “gray” holds. One thing is for sure; whether you call it grey or silver, it’s natural or boxed, or you’re young or old, lavish gray locks are a fierce, flirty, and fun trend that will turn heads and make your clients stand out in the crowd.

This non profit organization was started by Regina Villemure, after her niece, Sarah, was diagnosed with Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia at the age of three. During the 5 years of Sarah’s chemotherapy treatments, Regina noticed that many other children with cancer didn’t have hair or were wearing very unattractive and outdated synthetic wigs.

Amongst being a mother and grandmother, Regina is also

“It’s sometimes tough being a kid, so can you imagine the added pressure of facing a disease where they lose their hair” a hairstylist, cosmetology instructor, and hair replacement specialist with over 30 years of experience in the industry.

She recognized a dire need to provide children who suffer from hair loss because of medical reasons, with hair replacements. She also knew that human hair pieces are very expensive and most families cannot afford them – their priority is caring for their sick child and not adding another financial burden. Regina’s compassion evolved into a personal mission to “Cover Young Heads to Heal Young Hearts”.

Originally, the mission of CWHL was to provide free hair pieces to children battling cancer, but they quickly realized that there are children who lose their hair due to other medical reasons such as Alopecia, burns, Trichotillomania and other rare diseases and disorders. Because of this reason, they broadened their assistance. But they haven’t changed the practice of providing free services for these children – their belief is to never charge a family at a time when they need the most help. Since it’s opening in 2000, they have helped thousands of children with hair loss at no cost to the children or family and they continue to pride themselves in providing quality hair pieces to those who need it most.

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

Sy’s Corner Hair Managment - The Next Generation So the opportunity has never been greater - and fortunately we have new technologies to answer these needs. Consumers now look to technology to organize and manage their daily lives, so it is not surprising that those same men and women also look to science to fix their health and personal care needs. In Japan, fully fifty percent of cosmetics are science and technology based. And here at home, robot-assisted transplant surgery and low-level laser light therapy are re-writing the hair story.

But now there is a new and powerful technology that gives us a new weapon in the fight against thinning hair. It is stem cell therapy and I am privileged to serve on the advisory board of one of the pioneers in the field, NeoGenesis Inc., a San Diego-based company headed by a research team that started out developing stem cell interventions for the brain and retina and discovered that those same procedures had cosmetic side benefits.

The National Hair Journal recently welcomed me back, but in reality, I never left the hair business. I was always watching and thinking and wondering if there was a better way.

Twenty yeas ago, this was a market dominated by wigs and toupees. The main customers were men in their fifties and sixties.

Men were being sold something that wasn’t good, that they didn’t want, and at a price they couldn’t afford!

It was unsustainable.

Hair Club swept all that under the rug - if you’ll forgive the expression. Hair Club was what today is called a “disruptive” force. In the space of a few years, young men in their twenties and thirties were asking for a ‘strand-by-strand hair system.’ In fact, at one time the average age of a Hair Club customer was 25 years.

A major part of our success was our ability to understand and connect with the customer of the moment. We didn’t talk about covering up bald heads; we talked about “Your new hair.” It was a paradigm shift and it worked.

I was successful because I understood the client - in fact I was the client!

Things are different today, but the challenge and the opportunities are bigger than ever. We are living in a visual world.

People are attracted to images, to videos and to sound bites. It is also a youth culture. No one wants, or dares, to grow old, especially the millions of men and women who are forced to keep working to maintain their lifestyle, but find they now have to compete with kids fresh out of college.

Better yet, the therapy did not require any invasive procedure like surgery and it did not introduce drugs or chemicals like finasteride. It worked with the body’s own, innate healing mechanisms. What the body used to do once when we were younger can now be reactivated using the right combination of stem cells.

So how come every major cosmetic company hasn’t jumped on this bandwagon you might ask. It’s a good question. And the answer is equally simple. Through its association with BioRegenerative Research Laboratories, NeoGenesis has probably the world’s top researchers on its side… and their discoveries are patent protected. They are based in San Diego, the hub of biomedical research in this country. This is where the human genome was sequenced, where the polio vaccine was developed and where your hair loss future resides.

Some more good news. NeoGenesis Hair Serum can (and should) be offered alongside everything else you are doing today. It doesn’t replace your current services, it makes them better. NeoGenesis plans to market their hair serum as a cosmetic / cosmeceutical product. That means you can offer it to your customers without needing a doctor’s prescription or consultation. Remember however, you will only be able to promise “healthier-looking” or “denser-looking” hair. You cannot talk about “growing” hair or anything that crosses the FDA’s red line and makes a medical claim. Those of you who offer laser therapy are already familiar with this situation, but if you are not clear about what you can and cannot say, contact the Hair Society or visit the NeoGenesis website.

In my next article, I will give you tips on how to integrate stem cell therapy into your business and how to use this technology to build new business and re-activate dormant leads. Who knows, maybe there’s even a “Cellular Club” in your future.

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Dimples Rides Again!

After a brief set back due to a mountain biking accident, James Todd of Dimples is back with a vengeance! It’s evident that 15 screws and a plate in his body have not stopped him from embarking on new endeavors for the hair replacement industry that the company believes will benefit both clients and professionals. During a relaxed lunch to celebrate his recovery, The Journal asked James to summarize some of the new products in the pipeline.

Dimples latest project involves a graftable/bondable line of women’s top pieces specifically tailored to be tangle-free. The stock line is customizable with luxury hair that professionals will be able to offer their clients on the spot. Dimples claims there will be no more waiting 8 weeks for a custom unit to be shipped from the factory that may not fit properly or look exactly how the client imagine - this new line is intended to eliminate that inconvenience. Dimples is working closely with industry hair replacement leaders on this innovative grafting/bonding top piece, which will feature their Bronze and Silver hair categories (Remy and European). James told The Journal that the real beauty of this line (which also comes with clips), is that the hair has been tested and treated so that there will be no tangles or knots, while keeping its softness and beauty. The new range will also include larger base sizes with cutaway sections, so stylists can customize right in front of their clients. The popular Dimples ‘Lacey’ top piece, along with the new ‘Lacey XL’ is claimed to contour to the head better than other hair units on the market and is ideal for clients who are new to hair.

Dimples is also offering a limited 2-day semi-private education course on: How To Properly Graft A Top Piece, How Treat And Get The Most Life Out Of Your Hair, How To Succeed In Your Consultations and more. Classes are limited to 6 people and will be held in Los Angeles on July 26/27, September 27/28, and October.

Dimples focuses on natural hair solutions for women in three different hair qualities: Bronze, Silver, and Gold. From Remy Hair to Virgin European Hair wigs and top pieces. The company is located in Los Angeles, U.S.A. and Manchester, England.

The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

THE NATIONAL HAIR JOURNAL

The National Hair Journal was founded in 1977 as a business resource for salon and clinic owners. Its mission is to provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide.

EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com

BUSINESS MANAGER Kelsey Butler kbutler@nationalhairjournal.com

RESEARCH & CONTENT MANAGER Lyvette Johnson ljohnson@nationalhairjournal.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dylan Case dcase@nationalhairjournal.com

EDITORIAL POLICY The National Hair Journal is 100% independent and is not beholden to, or influenced by, any individual investor, manufacturer or other commercial interest. The Journal does not pay for the use of submitted material but it will give credit to contributors. Whenever possible, we encourage writers not to include company or brand names unless they are necessary for a more complete understanding of the article.

The National Hair Journal works hard to ensure that all published material is objective, fair and courteous. It reserves the right to edit material it deems to be overly commercial or that unnecessarily denigrates a competitor. The National Hair Journal has a history of profiling prominent personalities in the hair-management industry.

These interviews are based upon the prominence of the candidate and requests by Journal readers. Interviewees do not pay to be profiled and there is no commercial relationship between interviewees and their advertising.

ADVERTISING To place an advertisement or request a Media Kit, contact Kelsey Butler at kbutler@nationalhairjournal.com or call 626-709-6397.

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LEGAL NOTICE The views expressed in The National Hair Journal are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The National Hair Journal, its editors or staff. The Journal’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The National Hair Journal makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of the National Hair Journal a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The National Hair Journal accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials.

All articles and letters become the property of the National Hair Journal and may be edited for clarity, presentations and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The National Hair Journal, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, websites and other information materials.

Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The National Hair Journal Media Kit. COYPRIGHT The material published in The National Hair Journal is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

400 Clients a Day and Growing!

Jimmy The General explains how Jimmy Toscano, AKA “The General,” is a legend in the hair replacement industry. Like his father before him, Jimmy is a firm disciplinarian. He studies hard, works hard and expects the same from the people who work with him. At a time when many studios are flexible about procedures or even rent chairs, Jimmy insists on a rigid two-year apprenticeship program and operates a quality control video system. If a client is dissatisfied with his or her hair service, the recording of that service appointment is studied to see what went wrong and how to prevent it happening again.

There are no written contracts at Toscano Hair Consultants in Belle Vernon, Pennsylvania, just the unwavering eye of The General himself. If it doesn’t look right, you’re not leaving till it does. It’s no wonder therefore, that there is a line outside his door every morning or that his business keeps adding seven clients a month without advertising or promotion of any kind.

Although he works the kind of hours that would bring most operators to their knees, Jimmy will always find time to help others. We are grateful to Jimmy Toscano for stopping the clock to tell Hair Journal readers what it takes to stay ahead in the fast changing world of hair replacement. In this candid interview, Jimmy explains why it’s important to stay creative, innovative, and trendy in order to thrive... and why it’s time to cease giving clients the grandfather hairpiece!

Jimmy Toscano: The industry has changed a lot. And more

change is coming given the advances in medical science and marketing technologies. As a result, we often hear business owners worrying about the future. But here at Toscano Hair Consultants, we welcome the future and we keep growing.

Maybe it’s because we don’t follow traditional procedures.

What worked in the past isn’t necessarily right for today. For example, we don’t restrict ourselves to hair replacement. We offer regular haircuts and styling alongside hair replacement services. Whether your hair is full, thinning or gone, we have a solution for you. A year and a half ago our price for a regular men’s haircut was set at $12 bucks and we became so busy that we couldn’t handle the business. Because of the demand, we raised our price to $15, which lasted for about three months. The price hike didn’t slow business down. We are now charging $20 and we are busier now than we were

when we charged $12. Another key element is we don’t only cater to appointments; we do walk-ins as well. As I speak to you now, we have 15-20 people waiting in our lobby area and I’m fully staffed, so no one is waiting unnecessarily. We keep two people open for walk-ins at all times. When you operate by appointment only, it’s like you have your doors locked. You will not be successful like that. We start at 9am and go until 9 pm. Business is booming!

NHJ: Your clientele is getting younger. This seems to go against industry trends. How do you explain that?

“Everyone who works for me goes through a 2-year apprenticeship before they can even touch a client’s head for hair replacement” JT: We give our clients modern hairstyles. That’s what people,

especially young people, want. Our clients will wait 2 ½ to 3 hours for a hair cut, which goes against what I was taught.

I was always taught that people would not wait. Well, they will wait if they are getting what they need. It’s also a matter of expertise. Our people are the best at what they do, and it shows. Clients are not going to get that level of expertise and professionalism down the street. They know they can only find these styling skills in our salon. The same is true for hair replacement. They can go anywhere, but they choose to stay here. I get people from other hair replacement centers who ask me to duplicate what they currently have and I tell them, “If I have to duplicate that, I’m going to quit my job!” because most of the styles the show me are just too outdated.

NHJ: What advice would you give other studio managers?

JT: Stay up to date. We have a competitive edge because we are doing modern hairstyles. I’ve visited other salons and they are still doing the same things and the same

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styles from 15 years ago... and they wonder why they are not attracting a younger clientele! The reason they are not getting anyone younger is because the younger generation doesn’t want to look like they have a squirrel on their head.

Nor do they want to brush their hair back or wear it six inches long. We are cutting our hair systems down to less than two inches, or an inch and a half in some cases. We’re not using heavy densities; we recommend medium and light density hair systems. Salon owners and stylists must have a vision of what’s trending now. Unfortunately, a lot of them don’t understand what’s going on nowadays. If they did, the industry would change a lot.

NHJ: Why is the industry not keeping up? Is it because owners don’t bring in young stylists, or is it because they don’t travel to see new fashions?

JT: It’s that and more. Not only do they not bring in young

stylists, they don’t train the people who work for them properly. I have cameras throughout my salon. Everyone who works for me goes through a 2-year apprenticeship before they can even touch a client’s head for hair replacement. We all do the same thing; it’s like I make duplicates of myself.

If we ever have a problem we go back to the cameras to see exactly where the problem happened. I think a lot of my success is because of that. It’s also convenient because clients will go to any one of us, they don’t just request me.

Naturally, they may have a preferred stylist, but anyone coming in for hair replacement can expect the same level of professionalism from anyone of us.

NHJ: How important is it to work on men and women with regular, growing hair as well as people who need a hair replacement?

JT: We are here to help our clients, so we talk to them about the possibilities of wearing hair before they begin to thin.

When their hair starts to thin, we explain all their options and try to guide them towards the best solution at that time. Usually, we start them off with a laser. If their hair loss continues we upgrade them into a hair system. Once they’re in a hair system, the only time that they will see themselves without hair is when they are here in the salon, being serviced by us. We use a special soft bond adhesive that provides a permanent attachment. Clients will never again look in the mirror and see a balding head because

The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

they don’t have one.

NHJ: Can you explain “soft bond?”

JT: It’s a water based adhesive with no chemicals. It’s the most comfortable way you will ever wear hair. It stays in place 100%, doesn’t move around, and you can’t feel the edges. It’s the closest thing you’re going to get to ever having your hair back. Once you put a thin skin on someone with a soft bond adhesive, the chances of it coming off are very slight. When they leave the salon, they can go water skiing if they choose to. The only thing clients need to be careful about is not getting overheated within a 48-hour period after their service visit. So we tell them not to do anything that requires excessive sweating, etc, within the first two days.

After which, they can do whatever they want.

Since we’ve moved to soft bonding, we’ve had to discontinue lace units because the soft bond is a water based adhesive, and when the water penetrates the lace, the system will not stay on. But skin systems are sealed completely and won’t come off. We also steer our clients towards purchasing a “head of hair,” which runs anywhere from $300-$500, instead of selling them “hair programs.” This way, they tell us if and when they need a new head of hair and we work with them. When clients come in to get re-bonded, we’ll clean the unit, examine it with them, and then it’s their decision whether or not they want to put it back on or replace it. Of course, we give our professional opinion, and 90% of the time the clients will do what we recommend.

This collaborative system has worked out much better for me than the programs, especially considering that none of our clients ever sign a contract. I don’t want anyone to ever feel obligated to come to me if they don’t want to. We have 100% client retention. Our clients are loyal because they know we have their best interest at heart.

NHJ: Is it a problem to work on men and women with growing hair alongside people who need a hair replacement?

“Yes, you have to catch prospective clients early when their hair is just beginning to thin” JT: I have two different customers, both in their early 20’s

who recently graduated from college. They are really good friends and they see each other everyday. They even come into my salon together. The kicker is, one of the guys wears a hair replacement unit and the other one doesn’t. The one that wears hair doesn’t want his buddy that doesn’t wear hair to know his secret. But he doesn’t have to worry about the cat getting out of the bag, because his friend will never suspect it because it’s so undetectable.

NHJ: When men first come to you, what is the first thing they tell you?

JT: They’re seeing the first signs of thinning and they don’t like it. Maybe it’s only progressed to the point where we can to start them on hair fibers, but our goal is to earn their trust right away and to make them feel as comfortable as possible. So we might put them on fibers for six months to a year. I’m not a pushy person; I’m not just going to sell them a hairpiece, I’m going to sell them a way of life. So we start Continued on next page

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

them off with fibers and if that doesn’t work for them, then we just graduate them as we see fit. We make sure from the beginning that they never look like they are going bald. I think this long term planning plays an important part in our success.

NHJ: Is your female clientele increasing?

JT: Yes, our female clientele has increased significantly,

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especially with the integration of an all-in-one barber and beauty salon and hair replacement center. The business feeds itself. Our female clients are a great source of referrals.

It’s easier to sell to our women clientele because they talk to each other and give testimonials. The opposite is true for our men clientele; they don’t want to talk to each other about what they are doing.

NHJ: Are there any important new technologies or products that you have recently come across?

JT: We’re constantly working on ways to bond hair onto the scalp. Right now, we are working with a couple of new adhesives that are coming onto the market. Everyone is concerned about how long the hair will stay down, but that’s not what they should be worried about. They should be more concerned about how the hair is going to look. I have people who wear soft bond hair systems, who insisist on coming in once a week for us to clean, re-bond and style their hair system. We charge between $60-$75 and everything is completed within a 45-minute time frame.

Then we have other clients who go months between visits.

It’s never about whether the bond will hold; it’s all about the styling.

NHJ: any final thoughts?

JT: Yes, you have to catch prospective clients early when their hair is just beginning to thin and gain their trust and confidence. And you have to modern and stylish. We’ve taken the time and effort to respond to the changing market by keeping up on the latest trends. I don’t do a lot of marketing because I don’t need to. My clients market everything for me and they appreciate that we remain trendy. If you mention my name within a 100 hundred-mile radius, people know who I am.

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

Driven to Distraction!

Hair Loss Causes Traffic Accidents

A new study by the department of transportation says their agency has become aware of that one of the serious distractions that drivers face is a fixation on their hair (or, perhaps a lack of it)? According to AAA, distracted driving is a deadly behavior. Federal estimates suggest that distraction contributes to 16% of all fatal crashes, leading to around 5,000 deaths every year.

What Is Distracted Driving?

Distracted driving is any activity that could divert a person’s attention away from the primary task of driving. All distractions endanger driver, passenger, and bystander safety.

These types of distractions include:  Texting  Using a cell phone or smartphone  Eating and drinking  Talking to passengers  Grooming  Reading, including maps  Using a navigation system  Watching a video  Adjusting a radio, CD player, or MP3 player One subject was observed checking her hair in the rearview mirror 7 times in the course of 3 minutes! Fortunately, she was parked at a gas pump!

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

Hair Art On the Move

Kat Zahnow is yet another example of women who are making waves in the hair replacement industry. But why would we expect anything else? It was women after all who spearheaded the hair addition market decades in the first place. Remember Kae Martin from First Lady who cofounded of New Image that went on to become one of the largest distributors of hair replacement products? Or Eleanor Napolitano, founder of American Hairlines? And what about Rhonda McCarthty, previously of Hair Club and now pioneering a key division at OnRite/ Hair Visions? Kat is following in some illustrious footsteps and plans to turn her new employer, Hair Art, into another industry leader. In this interview, she explains how she plans to use Hair Art’s unique profile as factory owner/distributor/studio network to set it apart from everyone else in the industry.

National Hair Journal:

Kat, you joined Hair Art from another company that is admired for their customer relations.

Is customer service something you are going to focus on at Hair Art? Kat Zahnow: Absolutely. Before I into jumped into the beauty industry I worked with Marriott for about 9 years.

While there, I gained sales and customer service skills that became a major part of my commitment as my career moved forward. Top-level customer service is something we will definitely establish at Hair Art. We’ve already started onsite staff trainings, focusing on effective verbiage and follow-up procedures.

NHJ: Many hair replacement studios don’t have time to develop the skills you just talked about and are in need of someone to lead them… is that leader Kat? KZ: I hope so. But it goes beyond customer service. Attending trade shows and seeing the pace of innovation has had a profound impact on me. I see a lot of people who remain stuck in the past and continue with practices that are now outdated. We have to change that. One of the biggest things I took back from the shows was the energy and enthusiasm

of young people. Young people are the business owners of tomorrow, and they all seek the same thing - education.

At Hair Art we believe knowledge about advances in the industry is vital, so education is something that we are going to be focusing on. Fortunately, we have experience and feedback from every part of the industry because we own and operate three hair studios ourselves, we own our own factory in Asia and we operate one of the largest distribution centers in North America. That’s something no other hair suppler can match. We offer a 360-degree solution for the hair replacement industry and the wig industry.

NHJ: Women are taking leadership roles in the hair loss market again. Now you have the opportunity to do the same at Hair Art. What does a woman’s insight bring to Hair Art? KZ: The number one focus is going to be customer service and creating a different kind of client experience. When you call Hair Art you will speak to a live, educated sales rep. I also hope my involvement in production will create designs that are more in tune with today’s lifestyles and what women are looking for in a wig and hair addition. Our high level of quality control will also set us apart. We don’t have to worry about a third party executing quality control for us; we have our own factories and our own hair so we’re not relying on anyone else. We can exercise total control.

NHJ: The challenge for hair replacement professionals is to know what products are available and what’s right for them.

So let’s try and simplify things, starting with the Hair Art’s premium hair.

KZ: Everything under the “House of European Hair” brand name is 100% virgin European hair. The hair is held onsite here. We can match any curl pattern and any color. Blonde hair is harder to source and come by, but we do have it available.

“Hair Art stands for artistry in hair replacement.”

NHJ: What about the more affordable Asian and Indian

hair?

KZ: That is what we would call our “classic” hair and it’s

sold under the Hair Art label. There’s also a mid-range called, “Premium Classic”, which is Remy hair imported from India.

We want to meet every request and avoid saying “No.” We want to offer solutions at every price point.

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NHJ: To summarize: Hair Art stands for artistry in hair

replacement. Your premium ‘European’ collection is for people who demand the best. It’s expensive, but if you want the best you’ve got it - and you have more of it than anyone else. Then you have the ‘Classic’ collection, which is for everyday wear and comes in a reliable formulation and design. Then you’re also offering Indian Remy hair, which is categorized as ‘Premium Classic.’ How did we do?

KZ: You nailed it!

NHJ: Let’s go back to those contemporary designs. How do you plan enhance and modernize your collections?

KZ: We want to be in sync with today’s trends and lifestyles.

That means lighter, freer, more informal designs. Our hair is fabulous, but the last thing we want is for it to be sitting on our shelves looking beautiful and not having people out there wearing it. So we’re moving away from some of the older cap constructions that have thicker materials and transition into to newer type of caps that are hand-tied. Our French Tops are very popular. From a quality perspective, the

“We basically have any product that you need as a stylist or hair replacement center.” craftsmanship and ventilation in our factories is impressive.

We also do small repairs right now in our hair replacement centers and we’re going to train some employees to do some production onsite, so clients will have the convenience of coming in and choosing the hair that they want and we will then create the extensions for them right here. It’s a little more time-consuming than sending it to the factory, but it’s a wonderful amenity to personally pick hair to match your own color and texture.

NHJ: Hair factories in Asia typically have several checkpoints on their production line, but the quality control ended at the factory door. But in your case, the quality control continues when it arrives in a studio owned by you. How does that work?

KZ: By the time a hair system or wig is delivered to a client, we’ve already had a number of professionals look at it to make sure it’s exactly what was ordered. The process starts right up front with the order. If a client lives in the area, they can come onsite and choose their own hair from our inventory. Other clients send us a sample of their hair and one of our licensed professionals or Jackie himself will go into the warehouse and handpick the matching hair. This level of quality control is unheard of elsewhere.

NHJ: Tell us about the hair you keep on hand.

KZ: While other companies stay awake at night wondering about future supplies, we can rest easy. We probably have the largest inventory of virgin “European” hair of any distributor

The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

in North America. Our European hair is unprocessed and so soft that in a thin skin we work with a single split knot, not a v-loop that has a tendency to pull loose. We’ve just received some beautiful thin-skin samples. I’m confident that they’re going to be a great seller for us.

NHJ: What is your recommendation for an affordable product for men?

KZ: The House of European Hair brand. For undetectability, I would recommend skin systems. We also have some beautiful lace systems, which still contain virgin hair, but may last a little longer.

NHJ: How does your women’s collection break down?

KZ: Currently we offer just about every cap construction and every cap design, but we’re going to condense the line. We have 20 different styles now, and we are looking to reduce our ‘Standard’ collection down to 6-8 styles.

NHJ: In addition to your classic and premium hair collections, you also sell support tools and styling aids. Tell us about that.

KZ: We are known for our blow dryers, flat irons and other styling tools. Our new razor-cutting tool, Razarte, is popular, especially at trade shows. We also provide beauty schools with mannequins with virgin European hair, which we recommend over Chinese or Indian hair for coloring purposes. We basically have any product that you need as a stylist or hair replacement center.

NHJ: Do you also offer education and professional support?

KZ: Yes, we are fortunate to have friends and industry experts who share their skills and insights. Jimmy Toscano is the person who told me about Jackie and The House of European Hair. I was sold the moment that I toured the warehouse. Gilberto is also personal friend who does a lot of work with us at trade shows. I have a funny story about Gilberto; a salon owner at a beauty show wanted to wear a hair system so he could live with it for a while and get used to it before getting into hair replacement. Before we knew it, Gilberto was making a mold out of tape and a zip-lock bag and customizing a hair system! In no time, about 200 show-goers had gathered around to watch him create this makeshift mold and design. Afterwards, everyone rushed our booth asking for business cards and wanting more information. Needless to say, Gilbert will be part of our education programs.

NHJ: Are there any upcoming events that people should be adding to their calendars?

KZ: We’re putting together a schedule for 2016 and will let The Hair Journal know as soon as it is finalized. We’ll be focusing on the younger clientele and new business owners.

NHJ: What do you want our readers to takeaway from this interview?

KZ: That Hair Art is a 360-degree solution. We want to be seen as a company that offers a quality solution for not only every consumer, but also every business owner.

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The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

Kea Can Dance

By Michael Suba

Do you remember your first business trip? It’s something I have often asked my business friends. My first biz trip is actually rather hard to remember now, it being so long ago. But it was with my father and we were at an Allen Arthur (HA! Remember them?!) meeting in the southern United States.

I remember how exciting it was as a young man to be on a trip for the company. But we all know the arc of this tale. Business trips lose their allure over time. Waiting at a luggage carousel gets boring. That does not mean that these trips are not worthwhile, it’s just that the excitement and the coming of age thing quickly passes and it can become a wasted weekend more often than not.

That never happens when I go on a business trip to Cesare Ragazzi. Cesare Ragazzi. They are the manufacturers of the “CNC”, an advanced hair system. They also produce a popular line of trichological treatments. They are based in Bologna, Italy, and a business trip there is not like any other. For decades I have gone on countless trips and attended conferences looking for better hair and better manufacturers. We have all been there and done that. This time I was organizing a photo/video shoot in Bologna with the people of Cesare Ragazzi. This was going to be special. I had been there eighteen months before and knew that their hospitality was exceptional. I felt like a kid again.

I realized, however, even before I left, that this trip wouldn’t consist of three-hour dinners and fantastic scenery every day. Stefano Ospitali, CEO of Cesare Ragazzi, had told me that he wanted to expand the project. For almost twenty years my salon has had a “Wigs For Kids” program where we take ponytail donations and make them into free wigs for children. One of those children is Kea, and she suffers from Alopecia Totalis and we are making a film about her. Kea has been coming to me for her wigs since she was six years old.

It’s fun seeing clients grow up. She has appeared on numerous television stories highlighting my studio and the work we do, so when I was looking to produce a documentary on alopecia I decided that she would be the perfect model.

We designed a Cesare Ragazzi CNC for Kea last fall and planned to take this vibrant 15 year old and her mother with us to Bologna to film this latest chapter in her hair loss jour-

ney. These hair systems are the only permanent attachment systems with Virgin hair. It’s Spring Break time in the US and Kea is ready to flaunt her new hair. This system will give her the freedom to do all of the normal activities that teenagers her age do, such as dancing and Kea loves to dance. How fun is it to dance and swing your hair without a care in the world?! Kea now has the freedom to do this and the CNC system will be there right along with her, boosting her confidence along the way. It was the most fun I have ever had on a business trip.

Then Stefano came up with a brilliant idea. “Michael,” he said, “You wear the CNC, I wear the CNC, Danielle and Michaela and Kea also wear the CNC. We should have a photo shoot with all of us since we are all here together.” I blanched at the thought of trying to arrange parallel photo-video shoots at such short notice since we would only be in the country for a few days. “Stefano,” I tried to explain, “We will not have time. We are there for six days.

We only can shoot for four, probably only three if we are realistic.

It’s not possible.” He laughed at me. For a moment his chuckle made me think that his office was actually under an active volcano with a helipad. “Michael,” he said soothingly, “You sleep a little more before you come to Bologna. You sleep a little more after you leave Bologna. When you are here you do not need to sleep.”

So that was the plan. And it worked. Who knew?

My son, Tyler, came along. He is almost finished hairstyling school and had a great time with me the last time we went to visit Cesare Ragazzi. Danielle Grillo from New Jersey, and Michaela, a native of Bologna and employee of Cesare Ragazzi, would be modeling the CNC in the shoot. My videographer, James Sidney, came with us from Toronto. Cesare Ragazzi had their own photographer as well. The minivan was packed.

Cesare Ragazzi’s CEO, Stefano Ospitali, and COO Angelo D’Andrea, met us at the airport. The first thing that he did after we got settled into our lovely hotel in the nearby town of Bazzano was take us out to dinner. That set the stage for the week.

Stefano takes as much pride in his hospitality as in the service of his company and I have found that on every occasion both are exemplary.

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Dinner was in a local restaurant off the main square of the town in an old wine cellar. As Stefano is fond of saying, “Life is too short for bad wine.”

The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2015

European Hair, Trichology ... and Truffles

The next morning dawned cold and drizzly. But it was exciting as we were going to the Cesare Ragazzi factory for the tour and then to their retail center in Bologna. And Bologna is where the sidewalks are marble.

Kea wasn’t the only CNC client getting cut in. I was too. But she got all the attention. I know that having a full cap bonded system is not revolutionary. But having a full cap bonded system with pure virgin hair is. This is why the CNC is highly sought after.

Having traveled the world in search of the best for my clients I am used to my hosts doing what they can to make me feel welcome and to make the trip enjoyable. But when you are in the hands of the Cesare Ragazzi it’s different. Their idea of hospitality is so over the top that it makes all other trips fade into obscurity. I understand that the backdrop of a gorgeous Italian Renaissance city with its style and grace (and food) helps. But the fact that you are with those that make beautiful hair systems means that it IS a business trip.

By Chris Webb

December is truffle season in Tuscany. I had already decided to visit the Cesare Ragazzi factory and clinics in Italy in the spring and was waiting for a quiet period at The Journal - a myth I continue to cling to - but when Ragazzi managing director, Loreto told me the truffles were blooming (or whatever truffles do at the bottom of those oak trees) I was more than happy to change my plans.

What was so thrilling about this trip was how excited Kea was to have the hair that she always wanted. She could not stop playing with it. She wants to be a dancer so we surprised her by taking her to a dance school in Bologna. She had a private instruction and had a great time.

Seven days after that phone call, I found myself at 30,000 feet and headed towards Bologna. Upon arrival, I knew I was at the epicenter of Italian design as I passed a silver Lamborghini on display in the airport reception area. The Ferrari factory isn’t far away either!

Cesare Ragazzi (I’m going to call them CR for the rest of this article) graciously picked me up and drove me to my hotel, again a statement of Italian flair with a hip decor... and a sensuous picture displayed above my bed. I was clearly in a different place.

So for a business trip it had everything; wonderful hospitality, great friends and colleagues. fantastic hair, delicious food, and amazing photos and videos to showcase my business. It was also much needed time with my son. The challenge that I have now is to convince him that this is not what to expect from a business trip. If he thinks that this is “normal” then he will be very disappointed when he goes on his next one.

The CR factory is also a different kind of place. Firstly, it is very sophisticated. The production areas display the company logo and are all color coordinated.

Everyone wears color-coordinated uniforms too. Most of the

Over the course of the next days we went bowling, went to sea in a gorgeous 60 foot sailboat, cycled through the downtown, and basically could not find a disappointing meal. The weather was perfect and we really did not get a lot of sleep.

And even bar-hopping combined work and play.

But through it all, no matter how exhausting, it was an awful lot of fun. How could it not be?

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employees have been with the company for several years and are proud of the work they do. They see themselves as part of the tradition of design and flair that has made this region famous. As for hair additions, or CNC® system as they call it, this is a non-invasive, dermatologically-tested, full or partial hair replacement system.

It all starts with two plaster molds that are scanned by computer, digitized and forwarded to a design bay that creates a highly accurate base.

A word about the hair. It is European hair of a remarkable quality that is available in a wide array of colors and textures In this picture, you see hair taken from inventory that is at least 40 inches long; I won’t even try to guess at its value!

The base itself is a unique composition of medical grade silicone and colloidal silver, known for its anti-bacterial properties. The base is formulated to adjust to changes in temperature, so it remains comfortable even in the heat of summer.

It comprises a central area where hair density is greater, and a special perimeter where the hair is gently feathered to achieve a natural hairline. CR uses a proprietary technology to achieve these special hairlines but I was asked not to take any photographs, so I cannot share more information with you. The results however, speak for themselves.

So is this a hair product for everyone? The surprising answer is no. Firstly, this is not a cheap product. Secondly, this is not hair designed for a “service plan.”

The virgin hair and the silicone base are built to last.

CR recommends that clients order two hair systems or wigs together to guarantee a perfect match for the future and as security in case of an accident or unforeseen event.

But if you are a man or woman with advanced thinning and are looking for premium hair inserted into a strong, easy to wear custom base, then this may be for you.

Now for the trichology program and the clinics. Full disclaimer - I was treated to a complimentary hair analysis and therapy and still think about them. So I have to admit upfront that I am biased. Now to the specifics. CR will not recommend a thinning hair solution without a full review of life-

style, medical background and an in depth scalp analysis by a trained trichologist. These data are computer analyzed and shared with the client before any therapy or hair addition is started. My hair therapy session lasted nearly two hours and included scalp massage, infra-red LED light therapy, shampooing, conditioning and application of a hair lotion selected by my trichologist. The shampoo chair by the way, fully reclined and delivered a back massage as my hair was washed and a hot towel applied. The rinse came from special oxygenated water in a transparent cylinder with bubbles rising up through it that looked like something out of star wars!

What’s my takeaway?

These are caring, generous people who wish to bring a trichology-based regimen and unique polymer-based hair collection to North America. Their personal way of doing business is seductive and flattering.

If there were a CR clinic near me, I’d certainly want to go back. But it may not be an easy fit for the US, given the geography and number of studios, so it may make better sense for individual studios to seek out Cesare Ragazzi themselves and do their own due diligence. I did - and I came away with new friends and an admiration for their commitment to a different and important technology.

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Chlorine Clarification Summertime fun equates to lots of pool parties. So before your clients come to you with the devastating aftermath of chlorine damaged hair, be proactive and educate them how to maintain beautiful, bouncy, beach hair with these tips.

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Ever wonder why it’s safe to swim in pools, especially public pools tharine. Chlorine is a chemical disinfectant added to many pools to keep us safe from harmful bacteria and viruses. However, the benefit of this disinfectant doesn’t come without downfalls.

Short and occasional exposure to chlorine will not damage your hair, but it will leave it feeling dry. Frequent and longer exposure to chlorine is another story. Think of it like this – our scalp naturally produces oils which provide the hair with natural shine and flexibility. The role of disinfectants is to remove bacteria, oils, and dirt. So when the hair and chlorine (disinfectant) come in contact with one another for extended periods of time, what do you think will happen? If you guessed the result could be damaged hair, then you are correct.

Let’s dive a little deeper; when hair comes in contact with chlorine, a chemical reaction occurs resulting in chemical changes to the hair component by changing physical properties of the hair. When this occurs, pigments that give hair its color, oils covering hair, and proteins that form hair shafts are all negatively affected.

The good thing is there are ways to prevent chlorine damage. But first it’s important to assess your hair type to determine whether or not you are at a higher risk for chlorine damage. Remember, anyone exposing their hair consistently to chlorine is at risk for hair damage.

However, these situations can heighten the risk: 1. Color Treated Hair – especially if it is chemically highlighted or lightened 2. Chemically Treated Hair – relaxed or permed 3. Thin or Fine Hair 4. Dry Hair 5. Previously Damage Hair If you fit into one or more of the categories above, not to worry, there is hope. Follow these rules to restore your lovely locs.

1. Before you hit the pool wet your hair with clean tap

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water. Because our hair has sponge like qualities, saturating it with clean water first will make the hair less likely to absorb the chlorinated pool water.

Use a swim cap. We all love the sexy wet hair look and let’s be honest; a swim cap would totally kill that affect. But it’s worth the sacrifice. Simply wet your hair and apply a light conditioner before applying the swim cap and you’re good to go. Here’s another tip; find the cutest swimwear ever! All of the attention will be on your one-of-a-kind piece and no one will notice the swim cap.

Immediately after exiting the pool rinse your hair thoroughly. A good clean rinse will start the process of removing the chlorine.

As soon as you have a chance to shampoo your hair, do so. If you are at a pool party or at the beach it may not be convenient to shampoo your hair right away so it’s recommended to rinse your hair immediately which would be easier. However, when convenient, shampoo your hair to remove the bulk of the chlorine and to stop the damage that it may be causing your hair. There are chlorine removing shampoos on the market which are a great choice for regular swimmers.

Clarifying shampoos are also ideal.

We all know what comes after shampooing… conditioning. Conditioning the hair is a step that is just as important because we must replace the moisture and protein that the chlorine stripped away. A leavein protein conditioner will give the best results.

If your hair is already damaged by chlorine begin the process of repairing it immediately. Signs of chlorine damaged hair include dry, brittle, frizzy and bleached out hair. Sounds devastating right?! Revive your hair by using a deep conditioner weekly or bi-weekly to seal in moisture and soothe the frizzy split ends. Coconut oil is another great and natural remedy for chlorine damaged hair.

Consulting with a professional is always a good idea.

Speak to your hairstylist about getting your hair back to health and ask for recommendations on products and procedures that will achieve this.

The most important thing to remember is to practice patience while enduring the process of repairing your hair - it takes time to undo the damage, but it can be done.

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13 Tips for Thriving in a To-Do List-Dominated World .

By Andy Core As hard as I work every day, shouldn’t I have “arrived” by now? It’s a question that nags at you as you slog through each day, bound to the tyranny of your to-do list, one eye constantly on the clock. It seems all you do is work, but you have only mediocre results to show for it. Once, you had big goals and the confidence to achieve them, but now all you feel is tired, stressed, and overburdened. It seems the dreams you once had have disappeared into the quicksand that has become your daily life.

If this scenario describes you, you’re not a loser. Like so many others, you’re an unwitting victim of today’s demanding work culture, not to mention bad habits that are sabotaging your best efforts.

As you go through life, you develop habits and routines that you think will help you succeed. Problem is, many of those patterns probably don’t work for you personally. What’s productive for your coworker may not work well for you, for example. Or a strategy that was effective five years ago may no longer work.

Even your instincts can lead you astray. But you can change habits and patterns that don’t serve you. You can refocus your attention, redirect your thoughts, and generate greater motivation, energy, optimism, and creativity, as well as more rewarding relationships.

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day. Remember, nearly all problems, challenges, and needs are best faced if they are brought down to the scale of “what can be done right now” by taking on “one small piece” of a difficult situation.

Get big things done before 9:00 a.m. (instead of snoozing, procrastinating, and lurking at the water cooler). Ever notice how your morning sets the tone for your whole day? As Sir Isaac Newton famously said, “Objects in motion tend to stay in motion.” So if an object (you) get a groggy, frustrating start, you’ll probably feel sluggish and behind the eight-ball all day long. However, if you start your day with positive and productive ideas, actions, thoughts, and feelings, you’re likely to gain momentum throughout the day.

Here’s an example of what I’m talking about. I know a top salesman named Barry whose daily pattern involves getting up early, exercising, eating breakfast, spending time with family, and accomplishing several meetings or other work activities before 9:00 a.m. By the time his colleagues are settling into the starting blocks, Barry has already blown through several important tasks on his to-do list, and he’s geared to continue that pace for the next several hours.

The point here isn’t how early Barry’s alarm rings—it’s that he makes the most of the first several hours of his day instead of snoozing and procrastinating, as so many of us do. The truth is this: What you do first matters.

To start reclaiming the goals that once inspired and excited you, you’ll have to change the way you approach your day. Instead of a worker whose actions are dictated by supervisors and to-do lists, you’ll need to begin acting like the CEO of your own life. Read on for a few CEO-worthy tactics that will help you start thriving immediately:

DO first, and then KNOW (not the other way around).

Most people believe that the knowledge that something is important should make you want to do it. But in reality, that’s not the case. So, why don’t we do what we know we should do? If we know spending less time on Facebook will make us more productive, why won’t we just commit to spending an hour less on the site each day? If we know setting aside 30 minutes to walk or jog each day will make us healthier, why aren’t we jumping up off the couch right now?

Figure out what’s doable in a day. In Change Your Day, I write about a woman named Janet. She came to me hoping that I could help her find some semblance of balance. She was overworked, overstressed, and overweight. She had no time to exercise or to spend with friends and family. She was constantly on the go and fueled by caffeine, with no chance to recuperate between projects. Not surprisingly, Janet wanted to change her life.

Study after study shows that knowledge alone usually isn’t enough to impact our desires. In fact, the opposite is true.

First, you must do something—like bite the bullet and put on your workout clothes! If you experience positive feelings, attitudes, and results because of your action, you will learn that whatever you just did is good, and you’ll want to do it again, and again, and again. Over time, you’ll develop a new habit, and you’ll become an evolved person.

Initially, Janet was disappointed when I told her that changing her life was just too hard. But I explained that turning your whole life around is too big a goal. You can’t sustain that many major changes at once. Instead, I told Janet, I simply wanted her to change her day. I wanted her to reengineer her routine a little bit at a time, one day at a time, cutting out a small stressor here, and adding in a more productive habit there. Our whole strategy was to make small, doable changes that would, over time, create an unstoppable momentum.

In other words, you must DO in order to KNOW in order to BE different. Remember, nothing in your life gets better until your daily patterns get better.

You must do the same. You must set realistic boundaries. You must create goals that can be accomplished in the space of a

Own up to your junk hours. “Junk hours” are a little like junk food: While they provide short-term pleasure, they contribute to long-term imbalance and exhaustion. For instance, junk hours might include chasing rabbit trails on the Internet, shooting the breeze with colleagues at the water cooler, checking email in order to avoid doing other work, or even attending an unnecessary meeting. In order to maximize each day, you need to own up to your junk Continued on next page

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hours. You need to identify when you’re going through the motions of work, versus when real work is being done. Don’t be ashamed that your junk hours exist, because everybody needs to take breaks and shift gears. Your task now is to exchange your low-value “junk” activities for ones that build greater health and value into your workday.

For instance, I know one woman who, instead of taking an endless string of coffee breaks, sets aside 20 minutes each afternoon to knit. I know another man who decided to spend his lunch hours either with friends or going to the gym, instead of trying to squeeze in more work around bites of a burger. In both instances, these scheduled breaks increased my friends’ energy levels and sense of well-being. They felt less of a need to take low-value breaks and began to experience more productivity.

Instead of adding to your to-do list, build a new pattern.

Maybe you’re thinking, Sure, I’d like to change my day, but the thought of adding a boatload of items to my already outof-control to-do list makes me want to crawl back into bed.

I can’t handle any more tasks and responsibilities! If that sounds familiar, take a deep breath. The changes that build momentum are rooted in decisions, not additional tasks.

To build a productive new pattern into your life, you usually won’t have to add new tasks to your day. Instead, you’ll simply do what you are already doing, or want to do, in a way that becomes habitual. For instance, if you want to wake up an hour earlier so that you can jump-start the day, you simply have to change the time your alarm rings and the time you go to bed. If you want to be more productive at work, you might have to replace aimless procrastination with scheduled breaks. In both cases, you’re changing the way you perform existing tasks, not adding new ones.

Remember, though, it isn’t sufficient to simply trigger the start of a new behavior. You need to make sure that you have a motivating reason to make this change, as well as the confidence and energy to sustain it so that it becomes a pattern.

Start with one thing. Then add another….Then another.

Losing weight is one of the most commonly made New Year’s resolutions. It’s also one of the most commonly abandoned. That’s because people think of losing weight as a singular change. It’s not. To lose weight, a person will need to eat healthier, eat smaller quantities, and become more physically active. That’s three changes. And each of those sub-changes has many smaller components; for instance, eating healthier might involve drinking more water and less soda, eating more fruits and veggies, reducing refined sugars, etc. That’s a lot of changes to keep track of!

The point is, don’t take on more than you can handle.

Break each goal down to its smallest components, and then pick one of them to tackle. Pursue this change until it becomes a habit, then move on to the next one. Start with one thing and don’t add another until you’re ready. Positive motion creates positive emotion.

Make a big-box checklist. It’s a given that you have a todo list. Maybe it’s on paper, on your smartphone, or just in your head…but you have one. It’s also highly likely that your list isn’t as useful as it could be. Too often, you get stuck doing the urgent instead of the important. I have a solution: Make an actual, on-paper checklist each afternoon for the following day or each morning. Put a box by each task—the more important that task is for you to complete that day, the bigger its box should be.

I focus first on my big-box tasks. At the end of the day, if most of them have checkmarks, it’s generally been a good day! Yes, prioritizing my daily list by the size of the boxes on it may sound simplistic, but it has made me feel much more accomplished and satisfied with my day. It also has helped me relax in the evenings because it is easier to remember the big boxes I’ve checked off, thereby making it easier to leave work at work. I’m no longer distracted by each shiny ball that rolls by—I’m able to ignore them and train my focus on what’s really important.

Think about it so you don’t have to think about it. We all have “those” tasks and obligations that eat up a lot of our time, that we find difficult and frustrating, or both. For instance, when you come home at the end of each day, maybe you find yourself standing in the middle of your kitchen with no clue what to cook for dinner. As a hunt-and-peck typist, I was once slowed down and aggravated by the need to produce papers and reports.

Figure out where these areas are for you and commit to learning a new pattern. For me, that meant buying a book and relearning how to type using a two-hand method. In the cooking example above, that might mean getting into the habit of planning meals and shopping for their ingredients each weekend. Yes, learning new patterns can initially be tedious and laborious. But once they’ve taken hold—often in three weeks or less—they’ll speed up your performance, streamline your effort, and lower your stress. By putting in some thought about “problem areas” now, you’ll save yourself from having to think about them later. Eventually, this method changes once-tedious tasks into automatic, “I don’t have to think about it” behaviors.

Infuse meaning into your work. First, let’s get one thing straight: Doing meaningful work does not mean that you will “love” every second of it. “Meaning” can simply be recognition of what you enjoy about your work. With that understanding, though, you’ll be more motivated, productive, and satisfied. I recommend completing the following exercise: · · · ·

Focus on what gives you the greatest joy and meaning at work—be able to define it.

Reflect on how you are making a difference at work and through your work—be able to give examples.

Reflect on the meaning of your work as it relates to your core values.

And then…seek to increase what you enjoy!

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You’ll come to find that the “administrivia,” the mundane and routine chores required of you, and the not-so-exciting aspects of your work become easier to do and get completed more quickly if you have a strong focus on what you do find exciting, rewarding, or fulfilling. Personally, thinking about how I hope to help people with my next speech, presentation, or coaching session helps me to get through the parts of my workday that I don’t enjoy as much, like paperwork, scheduling, and staff issues.

Seek to serve, not shine. To some extent, it’s human nature to look out for Number One. We all want to rack up accomplishments, receive accolades, and garner recognition.

But in many situations, the desire to shine can cause you to get in your own way. Just think of the overeager salesman whose desire to exceed his quota makes him come off as pushy. Instead of convincing you to buy his product, his self-serving attitude just makes you want to cut the meeting short.

Ironically, the key to shining is putting others first. People who channel their efforts toward making others’ lives easier are nearly always respected, included, and considered valuable. When you help others reach their goals and become their best, you’ll usually find that the same things happen to you.

Fill up your energy bank account so you can make withdrawals when you need them. Throughout life, circumstances arise that are beyond our control. You may experience a major illness, lose a loved one, or be forced to relocate. You may have to occasionally work long days and go without sleep. The list goes on. It’s because of these outof-our-hands circumstances that we must all focus on controlling what we can.

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wander into future outcomes.

Thrivers trust in an execution mindset and focus their attention and efforts on the here and now. That’s because nobody can predict when or under what conditions the future is going to unfold. The only thing a person truly can do is to focus on the processes of today—and live them out to the max. That’s not only going to produce personal peace in the present tense, it’s going to be the best possible preparation for whatever the future holds. Enjoy the process and take great joy in the rewards!

Forgive yesterday so you can work on today. Most successful, hardworking people are often hard on themselves to an unproductive level. They are their own worst critics and spend valuable time lingering on mistakes and slip-ups.

Long after the event—whatever it was—is over, they beat themselves up relentlessly instead of spending their time in a more productive state.

Treat yourself with the same compassion and generosity you’d extend to another person who’d messed up or fallen short of a goal. If it helps, follow the twohour rule I learned from one of my past coaches: When you have a bad performance or make a mistake, you have two hours to pout, scream, cry, wallow, or do whatever you think will help you deal with the disappointment. But when 120 minutes have passed, it’s time to start moving forward again.

“Looks like hair wasn’t on your list this morning.”

What I mean is, know your needs and capacities and try not to exceed them on a regular basis. In other words, get enough sleep. Eat nutritiously. Exercise when time permits. That way, when you do find yourself needing to push the limits, you’ll have a healthy margin of energy, motivation, or whatever to draw on. Manage what you can manage as often as possible in order to compensate for what you cannot manage.

Forget the future. (Really!) The future can be an inspiring thing…but it can also be a scary and misleading one.

Awfulizing, what-ifs, and doomsday thinking can plunge you into paralyzing anxiety. And making incorrect assumptions can send you down the wrong path. That’s why, aside from setting goals for yourself, you should try not to let your mind

Remember, nobody is perfect.

We all make mistakes. What sets Thrivers apart is the fact that after a fall, they forgive themselves faster, get back up, and continue the journey forward.

By making small changes in how you approach your day, you can begin to take back your to-do list and accomplish the big goals that will really help you thrive. It’s time to stop allowing your quest for success to leave you feeling tired, stressed, and disillusioned. So, how will your tomorrow look different from your today? What is one small change you can make right now to start rewiring the patterns that define your life?

About the Author: Andy Core is the author of Change Your Day, Not Your Life: A Realistic Guide to Sustained Motivation, More Productivity, and the Art of Working Well. He is an award-winning lecturer, author, television host, and expert in human performance and motivation. Andy has a master’s degree in the science of human performance and has spent the past 23 years mastering what it takes to become energized,motivateand better equipped to thrive in today’s hectic society. He lives in Fayetteville, Arkansas, with his wife, Naomi, and their two children, Bella and Camille.

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