1999 Summer

I

Medical

Technical Report

A Closer Look at Laser Hair Removal

Report from The Live Workshop

pg.7

pg. 14

News Makers

Product News

Departments

Regulars

Commentary

Meet

Are We Poison ing Our Scalps?

John Paul DeJoira Chairman & CEO John Paul Mitchel l Systems

pg. 8

pg.4

The National Hair ournal Volume 3 No. l 0

THE PROFESSIONAL PUBLICATION OF HAIR REPLACEMENT

& RESTORATION

Greatest Opportunity In Beauty Business Says CEO of John Paul Mitchell Systems. In an interview with The National Hair Journal, John Paul DeJoira described how his company plans to bring new style to the hair addition market. In his judgement, the combination of fashion expertise and marketing muscle found at major cosmetic companies like John Paul

Mitchell Systems will provide the impetus to finally unlock the full potential of the hair replacement industry. "I see it (hair replacement) becoming more fashionable and the industry growing ten or twenty-fold in the next five years," commented Mr. DeJoira.

American Hairlines Acquires Focus

First School Licensed To Teach Hair Replacement Midway Paris Beauty School became the first beauty school to be licensed by New York State to teach a hair replacement course. Paul Elgart, who with his partner, Robert Schoenbrun, have operated the beauty school for more than three decades, said that by obtaining a certificate in hair replacement services, working hairstylists could expand their service into a related field and increase their earnings. The first clas will begin by midsummer. a ording to \lr. Elgan.

Sung Sik Peter Cho Is Sued For Breach of Contract International Hair Good and . ·ew Concepts Hair Goods have filed a legal complaint in the United States District Court, Southern District Of Florida against

American Hairlines, who recently acquired Nufa Manufacturers, have announced their purchase of Californiabased Focus. This is part of a program to expand American Hairline's presence in the western part of the country, says VP,

Robert Mazza, who added that the company plans to add at least two more wholesale operations before the end of the year.

American Hairlines, founded in 1979, is headquartered in New York and has offices in Florida and California.

NHJ Gets Excellence Award

NWHLAMeets Its Members

The ational Hair Journal was awarded the Excellence Award by Carlos Puig, AHLC pre ident. for ··out tanding Dedication And Contribution To The Hair Repla ement Industry:· On hand to re eiYe the troph wa l\1U editor. Chri Webb.

Sung Sik (Peter) Cho and Eternal Hair Corp. They are seeking injunctive relfrf and damages for alleged breach of contract. The complaint states that Cho solicited busine from . ·ew Con ep ustomers after lea,·ing the ompany in ' i olation of a wrinen agreement not to do o. Court d ument indi ate that Cho ha used th names, Sung Sik (Peter) Cho. Sung ik Cho, Peter Jo and Peter Ho.

And Now The Envelope Please!

Ce l e brity Signatures , the company behind the successfu l Raquel Welch collection, won the award for Best New Salon Retail Product Marketing at the 1998 ABBIES Awards

Ceremony. The announcement was made in Acapulco, Mexico during the annual DIALOG Conference hosted by the American Beauty Association last December.

From L to R: Anthony Sciara; Michael Kleinman; Denise Napolitano and holding the trophy is Michael Napolitano.

NHJ INTELLIGENCE UNIT STATISTIC S TO HELP YOU PLAN AHEAD

Low Unemployment and Surging Stock Market keep customers confident.

Consumer spending remains strong as the economy continues to show remarkable strength. The business climate could hardly be better as employment levels remain high, consumer confidence stays buoyant, and inflationary storm clouds fail to materialize. Unlike the Gulf War, events in Kosovo have failed to rock consumers' positive attitudes about the future.

Dec

Jan

Feb

Mar

April

Consumer Confidence Index

126.7

128.9

132.1

133.9

134.9

Personal Income

0.5%

0.6%

0.5%

0.4%

n/a

0.8%

0.3%

0.8%

0.4%

n/a

(% change vs. prior month)

Consumer Spending (% change vs. prior month)

.&.

... ...

After month of behind the cene planning. directors of The ational Women's Hair Lo As ociation officially introduced themselves and their organization at the Four-Manufacturer Trade show in Ft. Lauderdale, FL. President, Miriam Jung told The Journal that women's hair loss was a widespread problem that had not received pecial attention until now.

"We ·re not a women-<lnly organization." add d vi e-pre ident. Linda Arnold.

"However. we expect that women are most likely to be sensiti e to the special needs of other women with hair loss." NWHLA is a not-for-profit organization and is based in Auburn, Alabama.

"Locks of Love" Restructures Peggy Knight, founder of Locks of Love, has resigned from the organization and relocated to California. Jean Mignolet continues as executive director. Madonna Coffman is president. This not-for-profit organization gained national attention when it was featured on ABC's 20/20 news program and attracted support with its promise of taking hair from young donors to provide custom prosthetics for other children in need. Locks of Love became ensnared in controversy within the hair replacement industry, but its new directors are committed to re-focussing the organization on its original charitable purpose.

LJS

EDITION

Summer 1999

AHLC Has First Woman President for New Millennium In an emotional farewell, outgoing Carlos president, Puig, handed over the responsibility of running the American Hair Loss Council (AHLC) to Marsha Scott. On April 24 - 26, the AHLC hosted its 13th Annual Symposium in Houston, Texas. Despite declining membership and manufacturer support, directors and members vowed to keep the organization alive and to modify its structure to better meet an e ol ing hair replacement industry.

R OGAINE ANNOIDCES SECOND A NNUAL ROGAINE HAIR AWARDS

For the second straight year, Rogaine honed in on the hairstyles at Hollywood's annual ceremony and determined who were the Oscar's best-tressed male and female tars in five ategorie . FoUo\\ing are the winner : Be t l\ew Hair tvle (male) Jim Carrey; Best ew Hairstyle (female) Renee Zellweger; Sleekest Hair (male) Brendan Fraser; Sleekest Hair (female) Gwyneth Paltrow; Best Dressed Couple Warren Beatty & Annette Bening; Most Outlandish Hairstyle Whoopi, Whoopi, Whoopi.

Hair Color and Design Magazine Launched A new magazine has been introduced for cosmetologists with a special interest in hair color. The premiere issue of Hair Color & Design was launched by cofounders, Bob Lupinacci and Steve Goetz in April. Its theme was: "Celebrating Creativity to Advance Art." In the editor's own words, the publication is about "Passion, Creativity, Feelings, Hair Color, and Design." It will be published monthly.

2 The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

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International Hairgoods, Inc.@

A Step Above The Rest

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air management is hot news. Business papers, fitness magazines, fashion journals have all sent editors to take a closer look at hair replacement and restoration. For most of them it was a trip into a secret place they had little understanding of. First to get a visa was Fortune magazine. More recently, GQ John Sedgewick wrote a seven-page article entitled, "Real Hope to Prevent Baldness." In it, he talks with geneticist, Angela Christiano about her continuing hair research and the response from some of the nation's top drug companies. In fact, open almost any publication these days and you'll find someone asking about hair. The National Hair Journal is not immune either. We've had inquiries from ABC 20120 and the Chicago Tribune, to name just two of the heavier hitters. Now, all of this is good for an industry that has been left in the shadows for so long. But it does place a heavy burden of responsibility on all of us to make sure that the products and services we offer actually meet the lofty expectations that we have created. Is our advertising truly fair and honest? Do we actually have all the professional skills we like to think we have? Are we really ready for prime time?

In my last editorial, I asked why the men's hair replacement market was losing touch with its customers. I suggested that it could learn a thing or two from the women's market, which ' as partying i way to ucce . A.nd I ,..o dered al · o ·e the banner and lead the men· market

s

"International Hoirgoods, Inc. is dedicated to being your source for hair replacements and related products. And as the president, I personally pledge to support your established business by offering you the best in both synthetic hair and human hair which IS a step above the rest. " - Koichi Hiromo, President

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to fashion and vitality. Would it be one of the cosmetic companies? Someone like L'Oreal, which invests heavily in hair research and advertises their Feria men's line with the inyour-face slogan, "The End Of Boring Color?" Well, it turns out I could have saved myself some time if I had waited until after my interview with John Paul DeJoira, CEO of John Paul Mitchell Systems. Sitting in his elegant offices in Beverly Hills, Jean Paul talked about fashion trends.

About lifestyle. And about keeping or regrowing thinning hair. He made it sound fun and exciting. And it made a lot of sense. The motto of Paul Mitchell's Professional Hair Therapy line is, "Think Ahead." Maybe it's time to do just that. My discussion with Jean Paul DeJoira is on page 4. I think you'll find it refreshing.

Meanwhile, things here at the NHJ never stand still. In fact, they continue to accelerate. Our web site is now built out and you are invited to drop in to ask questions, leave messages or simply browse our articles. Gary West has written a short introduction to nationalhairjournal.com which you will find on page 9. You will also find several new writers in this summer's edition, as well as old friends like Holly Oyler and Tim Paulsen.

Meanwhile, we all wish you a terrific and successful summer.

Ediror in Chief

THIRD CONGRESS ON RESEARCH AGAINST HAIR LOSS AND BALDNESS Date: Monday the 8th of March. 1999.

Location: Palais des Congres. Paris. France.

New Image in Florida then introduced "Hair for Life" ("Cheveux de Contact") to the audience with a demonstration using 6 Writing for the NHJ is models, all wearing the new "contact-hair." not that bad at all! This The name "contact-hair" was introduced time, I was invited to the by the Norgil group to set the product THIRD CONGRESS ON aside from normal hairpieces. Being a RESEARCH AGAINST total lace-piece they compare it with the HAIR LOSS AND BALDcontact lens.

NESS in Paris. And who does not want to Dr. David Seager from Canada was also go to Paris? invited to show his results on hair transGil Mennetrey founder and president of plants and how thick they can be made to the ORGIL group organized the event. look. One of the most important ~orgil-is one of thekading groups .} 4-,_ 'if',, things, according to Dr. Seager, is m ~ranee ~ngaged m the battle /> ~.,i ' .if.__/'(;, th~ use of microscopes in cuttmg the grafts. agamst half loss. !hey have 'Y more than 10.° half-replace- t~ ~A Yours truly also was invited ment centers m tot~!, n:vel~e ~ as a presenter and my topic of them, located mamly m big ~ ~ was "Are we still around in cities, are owned by Norgil. ~ 2050?" This all of course in Th_e othe:s are part of a fra~the light of new drugs coming to ch1se-cham covenng the remamder the market. Will future generations of France. The group also operates a cl in- still go bald or do they have a choice? Also ic in Paris, which anchors the medical side the mix-up between cloning and cell-mulof the business, consisting mainly of hair tiplication was addressed since both terms transplants. During my stay in Paris I came are used, sometimes talking about the to know Gil Mennetrey as a really pas- same thing. sionate man who cares deeply about our The honor of closing the congress was profession. for your chief-editor Mr. Chris Webb. He The media was well represented, at the explained why our profession is so fasciCongress, with journalists and reporters nating. Today, the woman's market is from the leading newspapers and maga- divided into a necessity market and a "fun" zines, as well as television and radio. Dr. market. Will this happen to the men's marPatricia Martin-Lamanthe spoke about ket as well? Your editor thinks so. finasteride which has only recenly been Bonjour depuis Paris, France introduced in Europe. Randy Martin from Hans J.Diks

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3The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

Dior, Chanel, Hermes ... and Camaflex E

arlier this year The National work, but step-by-step, we also Hair Journal visited Monsieur extended our distribution through the Michel Berard in his offices in best wig-shops in each country. the Bastille district of Paris. For read- NHJ: Does Camaflex own any wig ers 'who fell asleep during European shops?

History lessons, this is where the peo- M B: In France we have two wig ple killed in street battles during the shops, and in Belgium we own seven, revolution of 1830 are buried. The but this is a recent French really know how to do revolu- development. It tions, and the big bronze memorial made sense in column, capped by the winged symbol Belgium because of liberty, looked impressive as we department stores came up from the metro and searched were reducing for Boulevard Richard Lenoir. We their numbers as a found Michel Berard seated at his result of mergers, large black desk on the third floor of so we had to the building his company owns. develop a wig Michel is president of Camajlex, one shop network to of the most important hair companies maintain a proper in Europe and we were looking for- distribution system. In France, we ward to talking with him. set up our wig Mr. Michel NHJ: First things first. Can we be our shops a very long usual informal selves and call you time ago, maybe 20 years, just to have Michel in this interview? a presence in this market segment. We MB: Bien sur... Of course! did not want to compete with our cusNHJ: Michel, could you take us back tomers, so we kept it small. In in time to the early days of Camaflex.

Germany, we recently opened three M B: Camaflex was created in 1963 by wig shops as a test market to see if this my aunt, Mme. Marguerite Varcollier. channel of distribution would be a She was a very creative person - an viable method of distribution in that artist, not a businesswoman. That is country. why she was successful! She was the NHJ: You were telling me earlier that first person to sell wigs and hairpieces you have a banking background. What in department stores and to present v ere the adj ustments that you had to them as a "ready-to-\ ear" item. In the make? beginning. everything wa human hair. '1B: I studied law, economic and pol•but when Kanekalon arri ed on the itics, which meant I was ready to do market in 1967-68, Camaflex jumped whatever was interesting! Camaflex into synthetic wigs. We had a fantastic was a growing business at that time success not only in France but also in and needed financing, structure, Germany and Belgium. Our interna- administration. and organization. I tional di tribution began with Belgium brought man of the e kill into the in 1963 and then Germany in 196 -. o group. Thi allowed us to create an as you can see, the compan became effe riYe European di tribution net"European" early in its history. Our work. strength was our department store net- NHJ: Can you give me an idea of the size and the importance of Camaflex in France and in Central Europe?

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ladies' wigs in Europe.

NHJ: Does that make you the biggest ladies' wig supplier in France - or the whole of Europe?

MB: There are other people who are important too, but I think we could be considered a leading company in the ladies wig industry.

Five years ago, we started marketing men's hairpieces when we had the chance to acquire the distributorship of Cyberhair from Aderans.

NHJ: What year did your association with Aderans begin?

MB: Seven years ago, in January, 1992, I sold the Camaflex group to Aderans.

Berard NHJ: So Camaflex is now owned 100 percent by Aderans?

MB: Yes. And, what is interesting, is they "bought" me and all my team.

Aderans was really very clever to understand that they needed to maintain the structure of the company. In each country we had established local management and warehouse system to maintain distribution according to local procedures. This is absolutely necessary if you are going to be succe ful in Europe. l\'"HJ: It would appear to be a standard bu iness practice of Aderans to leave local management intact when they buy a new company?

MB: I think Camaflex is the proof of their willingness to maintain the local management as a platform for continued ucce . ~'HJ: In the United rate . there are now eYeral autonomou Aderan cornpanie . Do ou ha e ··sister Aderans companies in Europe too?

MB: Not yet. The Camaflex group controls all of Europe for Aderans. I am much less familiar with American territories, NHJ: How are you benefiting from being a member of the Aderans family?

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MB: Aderans has a very strong financial structure in Japan. Also, an outstanding manufacturing ability as well as a serious commitment to R&D. Of course, it is sometimes difficult to integrate into a bigger group because you loose some flexibility, but you benefit in other ways - the research and development, the financial background and producti on capacity.

Before Aderans' acqms1t10n of Camaflex, we had many suppliers - but they also supplied everybody else.

Business was not very efficient.

NHJ: What else is different today?

MB: Perhaps we have less flexibility, but when there is an innovation like Cyberhair or the Noriko line, everything is under control because the factory is tightly controlled. Nobody has access to the new technology except the group. That gives us serious advantages that marketing groups that do not control their manufacturers cannot have.

NHJ: There is a big difference between France and the United States with regard to the percentage of synthetic versus human hair. How did this come about?

MB: For the time being, synthetic hair is dominating our market. It's difficult to say why. Perhaps because human hair, as we all know, is very difficult to take care of. But if you have a Cyberhair hairpiece, which I am very familiar with, you can have the same " look" as human hair, without the maintenance problems. It is more resistant and more durable.

So Cyberhair can actually look more natural than the same piece in human hair over a longer time. However, many people have a different opinion on the subject and I know that in the United States the trend is for disposable hairp iece . Thi ma be acceptable in America and ma later become acceptable in France and Europe. At this time, we have not yet experienced acceptance for those pieces, but perhaps that will happen soon.

NHJ: To conclude, I have to congratulate you on your excellent English.

And, for the benefit of readers who are too polite to ask: Yes, since we are in the capital of gastronomy, we are now going to lunch!

4 The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

3

ohn Paul Mitchell Systems is the leading privately owned professional hair care company in the United States with sales in excess of $600 million annually at retail. Famous for keeping pace with changing lifestyles and fashion trends, John Paul Mitchell introduced its Professional Scalp Therapy System in Janua1y 1999. The collection features Paul Mitchell Rogaine Professional Extra Strength For Men, marking the first time that a hair re-growth treatment approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) will be mass distributed for sale in professional salons. This struck The National Hair Journal as a watershed event, so we contacted John Paul DeJoira, chairman and chief executive officer of John Paul Mitchell Systems to find out how this marketing coup had come about. We met in Mr. DeJoira s offices in Beverly Hills. John Paul was fashionably dressed in casual slacks, a cashmere polo shirt and, of course, his signature pony tail. He was clearly enthusiastic about this new venture, as were reminded when we later replayed the tapes of our conversation back in our own offices.

NHJ: Paul Mitchell is known for being on

the leading edge of hair fashion. What brought you to the thinning hair market?

JP: We started considering the men's hair re-growth market as a result of research carried out by Dr. DiSalvo. At my suggestion, he had been working for over ten years on products to stop hair loss as well as products to re-grow hair that had shrunk to a vellus size.

NHJ: In January of this year, you introduced Paul Mitchell Rogaine Professional

MEET JOHN PAUL DeJOIRA Chairman & CEO, John Paul Mitchell Systems

John Paul DeJoira with Editor in Chief Chris Webb in Beverly Hills, CA Extra Strength For Men. Who approached whom?

JP: Pharmacia & Upjohn contacted John Paul Mitchell Systems. They saw a logical synergy between our two products.

Companies in the beauty industry have the clout and the reputation for being innovative. We also have the marketing skills.

Pharmacia felt that if salons could give their clientele a better education about using their product properly, more people would be do something about their hair loss as opposed to just wondering about it.

NHJ: The men's hair replacement market is not associated with the kind of fashion imagery that you are accustomed to. How do you feel about this?

JP: I think Paul Mitchell could definitely provide more of a fa hion image and that

this in turn would encourage more men to think about hair re-growth. If you look at our ads, they are not saying, "You have a bald head. You are losing your hair. Grow something new! " It's not the classic "Before & After." Our ads say, "Think ahead."

NHJ: What does, "Think ahead," mean?

JP: "Think ahead," means take better care of the hair you still have. It also means "How would you like to get back some of the hair you used to have so you could recreate the fashion you really want. Your own style?" We're trying to make hair regrowth more fashionable.

NHJ: Do you think that hair is still as important to men today as it was in the past?

JP: No matter what they say, the majority of men feel that ha ing their hair i very.

"We're trying to make hair re-growth more fa sh ion able".

very important! Of course, there is a segment that doesn't care. That's to be expected. But there is a much larger segment that cares a lot.

NHJ: Just as an aside, we hear that long hair is going to be in fashion for the next twelve months. Are we hearing right?

JP: I see hair, especially men's hair, growing long. I see the trend coming back. I'm one hundred percent for long hair! I think it makes a man look younger, sharper, more sophisticated, and much more fashionable. I have a friend in the oil and gas business that is growing a pony tail. And that's a pretty conservative business to be in!

NHJ: What has been the response to Paul Mitchell Rogaine Professional Strength?

JP: We only introduced the Paul Mitchell Rogaine Professional Products for Men recently. In another month or so, we will launch the women's formula. What makes this entire line unique is the fact that we also have a shampoo and conditioner invented by Dr. DiSalvo that together put the scalp in the best possible environment to halt hair loss and allow re-growth. These two products are totally synergistic with Paul Mitchell Rogaine Extra Strength.

When they are used together, we can actually say that we will re-grow hair or stop hair loss in 84 percent of all men. In fact, if they don't stop their hair loss or re-grow hair after four months, they'll get their money back!

NHJ: Do you have an exclusive license agreement with Pharmacia & Upjohn?

JP: Yes, we are the only company in the professional beauty industry that Pharmacia & Upjohn is dealing with. It's an exclusive distribution agreement.

NHJ: How do the other Paul Mitchell "treatment" products fit in?

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5The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

JP: Our own botanical shampoo and botanical botanical conditioner for scalp therapy will not be sold retail. The complete line for thin and thinning hair will be

sold strictly through professional hair salons for men and women.

NHJ: Most hair replacement and restoration professionals read The National Hair Journal. What is your message to them?

JP: My message to everyone in the industry, whether it's hair replacement,hair weaving, or wigs is simple - the more successful we are, the more successful you will be. That's because we are very high profile and we're going to call attention to men through your salons and tell them, "Hey, it's OK to do something about hair loss."

NHJ: You mentioned you had a women's Rogaine product coming ...

JP: Yes, in America alone there are 20 million women experiencing hair loss. Most of them would like to do something, but it's something that is not really talked about.

With men it's different. There are about 40 million men who are experiencing hair lo and its more out in the open. On e you , make hair re-gro,~nh more fa hionable, more people will feel comfortable getting involved. This will be good for every part of our industry. '.\fHJ: Now that fitness and wholesomen are be oming as important as clas i good loo · . ir chat ·- mi~ be an opportune moment to be laun hing th line of hair maintenance products. Do ou agree?

JP: Without any question. Having more hair makes everybody look younger and more vivacious. And knowing that it's possible to have more hair takes the strain off a lot of men. When they start losing their hair, it's a real bummer. It's the same thing for women even though they don't speak much about it.

NHJ: Has Paul Mitchell considered introducing hair addition products?

JP: I think that our company will stay with topically applied products that stop hair loss and re-grow hair. Perhaps one day we could get into fashionable accessories, I don't know. Anything's possible.

NHJ: Why don't men have fun with their hair the way women do?

JP: Great question! I think men don't have as much fun with their hair as women do because it's considered to be like putting ornaments in your hair. Men see that as more of a feminine thing. If a man walked around with bobby pins in his hair - which some men do by the way - or tied a beautiful red bow in his hair, people would consider it a little strange because it's not "fashionable." But you know, it was also strange twenty years ago when business people, like myself first began to wear a ponytail and have a little band in there. You couldn't really see the band, but it was still a big step at the time.

NHJ: Let's switch to a couple of personal questions. How did you get into the industry, and what are the things you want to contribute to it?

JP: At John Paul Mitchell Systems, our goal is to create success through beauty salons. We want people to think of us as the company that did the most to help salons become successful with good products, good knowledge, and good merchandising. We also want to be known as the company that told the general public that if they've got a problem, they should go see a professional hair stylist.

NHJ: How did you start working with Paul Mitchell?

JP: I'd been working with other companies for a number of years.

Then in 1980, a good partner of mine, Paul Mitchell, who was a hairdresser, and myself, not a hairdresser but a businessman in the hair industry, got together. It was the best relationship. He didn't do business and I didn't do hair, so we never argued!

NHJ: I understand your career didn't start in the beauty industry.

JP: That's right. I was working for Time Magazine as their circulation manager. I was 26 years old at the time and my boss told me if I wanted to get ahead and

become a vice president, I'd either have to go to college for four years or wait until I was at least 35 years old! Clearly, I wasn't going to do the same thing for the next nine years with no hope of promotion. As a circulation manager, I was running a big boiler room full of people trying to get subscnpt10ns. .. I couldn't keep doing that! So I went out looking for a new job and got hired by a company called Redken. They paid me 625 per month and gave me a $125 permonth car allowance, which was less than I was making at Time Magazine. But my new boss told me the future was unlimited in the beauty industry. And he was right.

It was unlimited!

NHJ: What do you see as the opportunities in the thinning hair industry?

JP: The thinning hair industry offers the greatest opportunities in the beauty industry, whether it's manufactured hair, hair extensions, hairpieces, transplants, internal things you take to make hair grow, or topi-

cally applied products like we have at John Paul Mitchell Systems. I see it becoming more fashionable and the industry growing ten or twenty-fold in the next five years.

And it's all because we are making it more fashionable. We are making it okay for somebody to say "Yes, I can do something about my hair!" and not feel weird or odd.

NHJ: What is your message to hair replacement specialists who deal with only with a clientele with thinning hair?

JP: Simple. We can work together to slow down or stop your client's hair loss. And since re-growing hair may take six or seven months, many clients will choose to wear hairpieces during this process. There will be some people who may re-grow very little new hair and they would need to combine the two hair replacement programs on an ongoing basis. It all works together. It makes for a nice harmony.

NHJ: Typically, hair replacement and hair restoration companies advertise heavily for

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their clients and build up mas i\'e databas- John Paul Mitchell Systems or they could es of people with thinning hair. Of these contact their local Paul Mitchell distributor prospects, probably ninety-fi e percent who would be pleased to arrange for the never do anything - - - - - - - - - - - - - - salon and their own about their hair probpeople to get togethlem. How could er.

John Paul Mitchell NHJ: Does the comSystems help them? pany have a website JP: That's what's that they could look beautiful. The head for that information? of those organizaJP: No. We're tions should get with putting a website our local distributor together right now. and set up a gatherIt's been delayed ing of salons that are because our women's products will be comcarrying our hair regrowth and hair-lossing out in the middle stopping product of May and they're line. I suggest they being introduced over all explain what they three months. As have to offer and just soon as that's completed, sometime in refer clients back and forth . Of the ninety-five percent of the summer, we'll be able to finish the full prospects that right now don't do some- website. thing, maybe eighty percent will. That will NHJ: Is there anything that will be done mean more business than this organization differently for the women's line? can ever handle. We could give them the JP: The women's line is exciting because a products because we could make an unlim- lot of women experiencing hair loss have ited amount of products, but I would say chemically treated their hair with color. So that the hair organizations you're speaking we will have a shampoo that is not going to about would have to get more room strip their hair of color. Also a recondibecause they would increase their business tioner that builds more body in their hair eighty to one hundred percent. If salons so that it appears thicker. This way, it will and hair re-growth centers would work seem they have more hair while the rewith one another we could do amazing growth hair is growing in. With men, we things! One plus one equals five or ten see results in about four months, with instead of two. These salons could build women it could take six months. Of their business ten times faster than they course, women will also have a money could do on their own and they would have back guarantee. more business than they know what to do NHJ: Anything else coming up? with.

JP: No. All the questions you have asked NHJ: Do you have professional training me are very thorough and complete. I seminars or materials for hair loss profes- would just like to emphasize the one quesio a! ? ·on and that · how an we work oge er JP: Yes, we have profe ional training and ith all hair re-growth ceme and John materials that these people could attend Paul Mitchell Systems salons. The answer. and acquire. is it's synergistic. If we work together on NHJ: How would they find out about this. this you'll have more business than you JP: They could get a hold of us here at could ever handle!

-

BECOME PART OF YOUR INDUSTRY

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Fax your info now to: 626 440 1130 or E-mail to: avirot@earth link.net

I

7The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

recently read an article in the Wall Street Journal on laser hair removal.

The author, Ms. Marilyn Chase, brings to the forefront some of the important issues facing the laser hair removal industry. Her observations however, need clarification. Not all the factors that contribute to a successful treatment were fully discussed, including the types of lasers used for hair removal, the profile of the person carrying out the procedure, their knowledge of hair growth cycles, and the facility where the procedure is performed.

My reason for writing this article is to reassure people who may have read Ms. Chase's article that hair removal can and is being carried out comfortably and with satisfactory long term results by carefully trained professionals. The key is the training. I am addressing myself mainly to owners and technicians who might be reluctant to undertake laser hair removal out of fear of problems as "scarring, blotches, temporary redness or blistering." I also want to respond to the inference Ms. Chase's inference that practitioners claim the process is "permanent," whereas she feels it could be better described as "long term." We have been practicing laser hair removal in Los

TAKING IT Au OFF ·RESPONSIBLY

by Gus Spiel Angeles for some time and have achieved outstanding, lasting results. Clients who want to remove unwanted hair can achieve excellent results with no side effects or complications. However, they have to become knowledgeable about the procedure and the hair growth process so they can locate and screen practitioners to find a clinic that will provide these reliable results. Unfortunately, many clinics practicing laser hair removal do not have the background knowledge to perform it safely and effectively. That's why I'd also like to set out the information a typical patient would need to select a qualified treatment facility. This will give them a way to separate the people who make the promises from the people who deliver the results.

The first stop in this education process is a basic knowledge of laser technology.

The word laser is an acronym for "Light Amplification by the Stimulated Emission of Radiation." The purpose of a laser is to

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harness the power of light to perform a specific function in medicine or industry.

Lasers are common in every day life. CD players contain lasers, the check-out scanner at the supermarket is actually a laser, and many people have laser printers hooked up to their computers. A laser consists of a chamber, or cavity, with mirrors at both ends and a "lasing material" inside.

This material can be solid (such as the ruby crystal), a liquid (such as an organic dye).

Or a gas (such as carbon dioxide). One of the mirrors of the laser is only partially reflective and allows some of the light to escape. This light is of one wavelength (color), travels in one direction and is very intense. Lasers fall into two categories depending on the way their light is emitted: Continuous Wave (CW) lasers and Pulsed lasers. The output of a CW laser is constant, like the light emitted from a flashlight. Helium-Neon lasers used in supermarket scanners and Argon and Krypton lasers used in laser light shows are examples of CW lasers. Pulsed lasers emit bursts of light rather than a continuous beam. Many of the lasers used in medicine and cosmetic procedures are pulsed lasers.

In medicine, it is important to match the output of a laser to an application. All parameters, including the wavelength, energy, and pulse duration must be combined to produce the desired effect. In all cases, the goal is to create a specific result without causing damage to the normal surrounding tissue. For the removal of hair, in simple terms. light must be introduced into the cells in and surrounding the hair follicle to heat and disable these stru.ctures This requires a pulse of laser light that is long enough to heat the area_ but hort enough o it doe not a e damage to any of the kin tructure urrounding the folli cle.

1 O\ , what do you look for in selecting a facility to perform laser hair removal? The laser is a very powerful medical device that must be used in a medical clinic under the supervision of a physician. In many states unlicensed, untrained people can perform the procedure. This allows the procedure to be performed in health clubs, spa resorts,

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etc. Many of the problems in laser hair removal stem from the people who operate the laser and the facility where the procedure is done. In California, where we are located, the procedure can only be performed in a medical clinic under the practice of a licensed physician. We believe this to be the correct approach and think it should be adopted in all states.

The following is a Customer Checklist, which lists the things a smart client should do before beginning a program of hair removal.

1. Wherever you are, find a physiciansupervised clinic in a medical facility.

Laser hair removal is a process that must be performed by qualified professionals.

The procedure itself is tedious to perform, but very straightforward. In fact, not many physicians actually operate the laser. It is best performed by registered nurses, RN's; not by LVN's or medical assistants. An RN receives the equivalent of a college degree and receives extensive training in all forms of medical procedures. Unfortunately, not many facilities use RN's. Insist on one.

2. Make sure you fill out a thorough medical history questionnaire that will be reviewed by the physician prior to your being approved as a patient. This is extremely important as there are situations which preclude laser hair removal treatments such as patients taking certain medications, pregnant women, and nursing mothers, to name a few.

3. Ask what type of specific laser will be used for your hair removal session. We feel Ruby or Alexandrite lasers provide the best results.

4. Ask the consultant or physician these three key questions. * How many treatments are needed to achieve long lasting results in the area from which you want to remove hair? * How often will you need to come in to receive this treatment? * How man month will it take to coqiplete all of the treatments?

1 'ote that above I used the phrase "long lasting results" and not "permanent" as most practitioners are claiming. The medical industry is strictly regulated on a national level by the Department of Health, the FDA and on a State basis by Medical Boards. What you can say verbally to patients or in advertising claims should be known by all medical facilities. The word "permanent" cannot be used with laser hair

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8The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

Hair Under Troubled Waters Are We Poisoning Our Scalps?

by James Britt

T

he images are forever burned into our minds. Kurdish villagers in festive dress lying dead where only moments before they had worked and played. They were victims of a chemical attack by Saddam Hussein on a dissenting sect of his own people. His weapon of choice?

Mustard gas. It's chief chemical component? Chlorine!

Today, water supplies across the United States are chlorinated. It's the same chemical. In his article, Water Can Undermine Your Health, Dr. N.W. Walker, D.S. writes "Chlorine gas was despicably used during World War One. When the war was over, the use of chlorine gas was diverted to poisoning germs in drinking water The combination of chlorine, when in water and

animal fats, results in atherosclerosis, heart attacks, and death?"

There is mounting evidence that the chlorine, introduced into the nation's water system ostensibly to protect us from pathogenic microorganisms, is itself responsible for an epidemic of Alzheimer's, diabetes, cancer, and heart disease.

As a result, the drumbeat to remove chlorine from our drinking water has now reached a deafening pitch. Concerned citizens are responding by installing filtering systems under their sinks to purify their drinking water, or drinking only bottled spring water. But what about the water we bathe or shower in? Unless you have a filter system in your home or business which purifies the water at its source, the water in which you bathe, shower, and shampoo your hair contains harmful toxins - poison.

Dr. Lance Wallace of the Environmental Protection Agency writes: "Showering is

(continued from TAKING IT ALL OFF) achieve lasting results? Well, for example, removal, just as a physician cannot guaran- for arm hair we now acknowledge that a tee that a cancer can be permanently minimum of 5 treatments is needed to remove unwanted hair and that treatments removed.

The answers you receive to the above should be scheduled every 3 to 4 months. questions, will enable you to determine the This would indicate the total time needed qualifications of the facility you are evalu- to achieve lasting results using 4 months ating. Their answers should be consistent between treatments would be approximately 20 months. In selecting arm hair I have with the following discussion: Number of treatments needed and amount purposely selected an area that is one of of time between treatments. For every area the longest to treat. Hair on the cheeks can of the body a different number of treat- be removed in considerably less time. At ments is needed for lasting results. Here's any given time 50 to 70% of cheek hair is in the A..nagen ge thus wh: " when a laser is necessitating approximately * Hair grows from a "bulb" 3 treatments. or papilla. Only this lower used on a body only With this information you portion of the bulb is alive. have a basic knowledge of The shaft of hair coming area, it only hair growth phases and hair from the bulb is compacted disablesthe removal planning. Clinics keratin cells. that answer these questions * Hair grows in three phashairs in the will demonstrate that they es. * The Anagen phase is the anagen phase " understand the growth cycle of hair sufficiently to pergrowth stage in which the hair and the bulb is active and alive (the form successful laser hair removal. You do bulb is connected to the blood supply with not need to know the specific details for each body part. The clinic's answer to your a hair shaft growing upwards). *The Catagen phase is the dormant stage three questions will tell you all you need to when the bulb is disconnecting or has dis- know to evaluate their expertise. If you are not sure of their answers, ask them to connected from the blood supply. * The Telogen phase is the dormant stage explain the process of hair growth, and where there is no blood connection to the how this information is pertinent to laser hair removal. If the facility can't have this bulb.

When a laser is used on a body area it discussion to your satisfaction, keep your only disables the hairs in the Anagen check book out of sight and remove yourphase. The balance of hair in the Catagen self from the premises as fast as you ca:n.

The other factor relating to safety and and Telogen stages is not active and therefore, not affected by the laser. To provide success of laser hair removal involves the an example, let's assume you would like to physical use of the laser. This is beyond remove unwanted hair from your arms. your ability to foresee. Asking questions The consultant or physician may tell you will not provide you with answers that are you'll need to come back every month for meaningful to you. A Ruby or Alexandrite 3 or 4 months. Wrong answer! There is no laser has many power settings. Your medknowledge of hair growth here. Fact: on ical questionnaire, and skin evaluation the arms approximately 20% of the hair is should indicate to the facility the correct in the Anagen stage at any given time. If setting. A setting too high for you could only 20% of the arm hair can be removed cause temporary redness, blotches or scarin one laser treatment, it will take a mini- mg.

If the facility has passed all of the above mum of 5 treatments to treat 100% of the hair in the Anagen phase. The hair on the tests and it is a medical clinic supervised arms remains in the Anagen stage for by a physician, then an RN or physician approximately 12 to 16 weeks. Therefore, will operate the laser. They will understand your next appointment, if it is to be effec- all the phases of hair growth and you tive in disabling the next hairs to reach the should be safe in assuming they are able to Anagen phase, should be in 3 to 4 months. safely set the power settings. Many facilities will set the level a little lower than It cannot be sooner.

What's the total amount of time needed to their estimates for the first treatment just to

suspected as the primary cause of elevated levels of chloroform in nearly every home because of the chlorine in the water." Then there 's this, from The Nader ReportTroubled Waters On Tap: "A professor of ~~~-~ Water Chemistry at the University of Pittsburgh claims that the exposure to vaporized chemicals in the water supplies through showering, bathing, and inhalations is 100 times greater than through drinking the water."

Are we poisoning our scalps? Many doctors and researchers answer with an unequivocal yes.

Chlorine is proven to attack protein in the body, and as every cosmetologist knows, hair is 97% protein. There is also evidence that chlorine can affect, and possibly delay, the hair growth cycle, extending the telogen, or resting phase of the hair growth cycle and dramatically contributing to premature hair loss. To make matters worse, chlorine also strips essential nutrients and pigment from the

hair and scalp, causing oxidation and breakage. That's why many hair replacement clinics around the country are now providing their clients with showerhead filters, which remove chlorine and other harmful chemicals. Hair replacement wearers are learning that shampooing their systems in chlorine-free water preserves the color and original texture of the hair.

However, it is not enough for clients and patients to take these precautions at home and then visit a salon where their hair is shampooed in chlorinated water. Clinics and hair studios should consider providing chlorine free hair services too.

Professional purification systems and individual filters at each shampoo station are affordable and easy to install. Likewise, quality showerhead filters are available for home use and can be offered to your clients. These are not frivolous luxuries.

They are serious hair care aids that show your concern for your customers' welfare at the same time as creating an attractive new profit center. Let's clean up our act and provide those we serve, with not only services which yield the most esthetically pleasing results, but with services that are safe and environmentally friendly.

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err on the safe side. We have developed a digital meter that we place on the skin in the area where we intend to remove hair. It gives us the "maximum" safe setting for our client's specific skin type, ensuring an effective procedure at the highest "safe" setting.

That's it! If you are a salon manager, clin ic owner or technician, you now know what a smart customer or patient should be asking you. And if you want to prove the efficacy of this technology to yourself before introducing it to your own facility,

you 're ready and armed to go out and have your unwanted hair safely and effectively removed. It works; check it out!

Mr. Gus Spiel, is the CEO of Image' One Professional Group and The National Anti Aging Institute(NAAI). 22 years in hair replacement in Los Angeles. Extensive experience with surgical and non-surgical procedures, cosmetic surgery and antiaging medicine. Prior to entering the hair management field, he was a vice-president at the worlds sixth largest advertising agency in its Madison Ave. headquarters.

0

9The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

ver the next few issues of the National Hair Loss Journal I want to introduce and review a number of important techniques.

I intend to share personal tips and insights that I have gained over twenty-five years in this business and answer questions I receive from the people on the froµt line charged with creating the styles that our clients trust us with. This first article looks at lace fronts.

Lace fronts are perhaps the most undetectable hairline you can work with. They represent an important technical advance with major benefits for you and for your clients. Although they are gaining in popularity, I still encounter stylists who suffer from a lack of information on how to work with them, or how to instruct their clients in home maintenance. To help them, and to remind ourselves how important lace has always been in our industry, here is some background history.

The use of lace materials originated in the film industry many years ago. Even back then, directors and cameramen were able to shoot the stars and models of the day with excellent results. They could create virtually any look they wanted, but they had a hard time keeping that look intact after the filming was over. The challenge was durability.

The hair replacements used on the set were very delicate and, to make matters worse, the adhesives of that era were very difficult to work with.

Something had to be sacrificed for regular wear, and that something was the delicate, lace, front hairline. To achieve the durability necessary for everyday wear, stylists learned to work with hairpieces and wigs that were not dependent on lace. They became adept at styling their client's hair to cover up the base materials. Hair was worn forward to conceal • the leading edge of the hair system, which even with under-ventilation still could not

match the soft density of a natural hairline. temple transition area through proper knot In this way, technicians achieved the desired direction. Extended unvented lace enables goal of producing a more robust hair replace- you to adjust things any way you desire. If ment system, but only at the expense of a the hair is a little shorter than you had hoped, or a widows peak is left out, you have the natural hairstyle.

Technology has now come to our aid how- opportunity to design or alter that area prior to the cut-in. ote also that the color used ever, and clients today can have the best on the hair shaft is easily lifted with of both worlds. It is the result of bleach. This might be necessary breakthroughs in fabric design to avoid ugly dark specks and advances in new hi-tech showing at the scalp, creatfibers. Once again, the ing a "doll head" effect. industry is talking about Working closely with a new hairlines based on ventilator is always a big "lace fronts." Learning plus. Your ventilator will to work properly with quickly begin to underlace is relatively simple, stand what you want as but it is the details that he or she gets to know are important. It's the your design tendencies. Be subtle things that matter sure to work closely with most. Let's begin with the the consultants during the most critical area - designmolding process. Ordering ing the front. My first word of

by Kathryn Ambeny 40% highlight on the first 1/4 inch advice. Start by studying hairof the front edge tends to additionally lines! Look at lots of pictures and at real hairlines. Notice how subtly inconsistent soften the hairline, especially when the client natural hairlines really are. Notice that the has very dark hair, #3 or lower. However, hair has a finer texture along the edge and these decisions can also be implemented that it become progressively less dense than after you receive the new unit - that's the the hair behind it. Notice also the varying~ beauty of understanding all your options.

This is just a start. Lace allows so many recessions, points and hair directions. All of these can be easily imitated using small design possibilities. If you are like most stylamounts of additional venting along the ists, you are going to want to experiment and front, removing some of the hair in the first see what works for you. Along the way, I 1/4 inch of the hairline and lightening the will be happy to help you gain all the techniknots. In some instances, you may want to cal information you desire to help yourself add additional highlights along the front. In and your staff to achieve incredible results. many cases, adding additional single knots Kathryn Amberry has worked in the hair, that are free to "swing" on the bar of the weave will help you to create incredible make-up, music, film, hair replacement, and directional tyling. For example, you could video industries since 1974. She trained with the International Educational Director of create the cm: lick that your client once had Sassoon s in London, England and the or an effect that enhance a current style. International Artistic Director of Sassoon s. uch as bobs back of the face and draping Her goal is to provide information that will back around, e.g. the Hugh Grant look. You make a difference to those who design and can achieve fabulous blending at the difficult the clients they serve.

Lace

Me Up, Glue Me

Down

.---~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-...,

Replica

YOU HAVE MAIL Our new web site, NATIONALHAIRJOURshould be up and running by the time you read this article. Visitors will be able to catch up on past news and interviews as well as tracking important industry news as it happens. From now on, information about people, products and suppliers will only be a couple of mouse clicks away.

The site has two parts; NHJ ON-LINE, which is where you go to read summaries of recent articles, and NHJ INTERACTIVE, which is where you can talk back to us, chat among yourselves, or exchange news with other special interest groups in the industry. Here are a few of the inter-active features: Ask The Expert - A technical forum where your questions will be answered by a leading industry expert.

Stylists Helping Stylists - A bulletin board where you can post tips and suggestions that could help other technicians.

Live Interviews - Where you can meet hair important personalities at live on-line "receptions." Ask the questions you always wanted, or just listen in. Virtual wallflowers welcome!

Job Offers See what's out there. Post your own offers, or find out what you're worth!

Supplier Hot/inks - Check out products you've seen in NHJ or use our hotlinks to go direct to manufacturer's own web sites.

How does it work? Well, if all you want to do is scan NHJ headlines, you can do so at no charge. NHJ ON-LINE is absolutely free! Just call 909-924-5453 to get your free access password. To access the inter-active services however, you will need to become an HJ INTERACTIVE member by giving proof of your professional status and paying a $25 annual fee.

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10 The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

MARDI GRAS MAGIC AT ON RITE CONVENTION NEW ORLEANS A Dixieland band leading over 400 On Rite conference attendees through the streets of New Orleans, a runway fashion show, and a hair replacement demonstration performed amidst falling confetti and stage theatrics were just some of the highlights of OnRite's Conference ' 99.

Dubbed "The Magic of Mardi Gras", the On Rite conference actually took place one week after New Orleans' famed Mardi Gras celebration, much to the relief of conference-goers and On Rite conference planners alike. "We wanted to maintain all of the excite- ' ment of Mardi Gras and bring it to this year's convention, without any of the teeming crowds and other negatives associated with the annual Bourbon Street extravaganza, "according to Andy Wright, On Rite president.

The On Rite conference was so big, and attracted so many people that a conference within a conference was required: Before the actual conference began, a separate conference for On Rite's one hundred-plus current Folligraft licensees was held the day before.

The main show kicked off on Sunday morning, Feb. 28th, with a keynote address entitled "Changing Your Personal Behavior" by noted sales trainer and toast master, Doug Carter. Then on to Jeffrey and Zina Paul's Broadway-inspired hair replacement demo dubbed Metamorphosis, set to music, lights, bursts of confetti, and other stage theatrics. In the afternoon, noted New

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York adman Steven DiManni previewed two new OnRite marketing programs and reported on the phenomenal success of two others, before giving way to an On Riteproduced women's hair replacement fashion show led by noted stylist to the stars, Stephen Abela and women's hair replacement expert, Sheryl McCaleb. The day concluded with the return of Doug Carter, to explain the finer points of what he calls "Trust Based Selling," an approach that's time has come in the hair business, according to Mr. Carter. The enormous potential of the women's market was very much at the confer enc e's forefront, with the presentation

of On Rite's new 14 model GEM women's hair replacements. In addition to the dramatic women's hair replacement presentation, and viewing of the new On Rite GEM replacement products, two new women's marketing programs also debuted. As the day ended, a Dixieland band entered the convention hall and led the over 400 strong contingent out of the hotel and down Bourbon Street.

The final day of the convention saw acclaimed motivational speaker Julio Melara, a consultant to firms like Toyota and Federal Express, ignite the crowd with his fiery exhortations in his presentation, "Do You Have T.I.M.E. for Success? He was followed b a pre entation of Bella Moda, the new Europeaninspired line of On Rite men's hair replacements. Later in the day, two other hair replacements were presented, Versalite and Omnilite, all-lace and all-skin systems created specifically for the latest bonding methods. On Rite also displayed a new bonding agent that professes longer-lasting adhesion and easier clean-up.

Finally, it was time for new product introductions, including Retain(tm), On Rite's very own line of hair loss preventative maintenance products, a new scalp laser, a new patented method for women's attachments called Fast Trax by inventor Kelly Vaughn, and lastly, a new computer system designed especially for the hair industry.

Finally, to bring the entire audience into the know about the most successful marketing program in On Rite's history, the convention ended the way it started, with a demonstration of Folligraft, "the non-invasive hair graft.

The exhausted and overwhelmed conference-goers ended the day with concluding remarks by Mr. Wright. "I am so extremely happy that everyone enjoyed the convention. Quite frankly, I don't know how we 're going to top this next year. B~t I' m sure we'll find a way," Mr. Wright said. He quickly added, "I'm also extremely glad we only do this once a year", before heading off to his room for what promised to be his first full night of sleep in three weeks.

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11The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

First Multi-Manufacturer Hair Seminar The first four-factory symposium took place in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida during the weekend of April 17th - 18th.

Attendees came from sixteen countries, including locations as far away as Australia, Venezuela and Pakistan.

1rJh1e dhu1sltJry t City

New Convepts President, Okyo Sthair poses with Flash Attachment team (center), Rehan Alikhan (far left) and Gilberto.

Conferenee

General Wig President, Alan Smiley & Gerry Holt pose with Revlon models

NHJ on stage. From L to R, Gary West, Kathryn Arnberry,Chris Webb,John Vincent

iarlotte, NC I

THI, Technical Director, Darla Smith introduces Concise Hair

Sazz gets undivided attention in hands-on class

111

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Gerry Holt demonstrates the stunning looks that can be produced in minutes with Revlon Alternative Hair.

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Always popular, Gilberto does his magic

AHLC, 13TH ANNUALSYMPOSIUM PERSONAL COMMENTARY

by Anthony Santangelo

•

Drs.Arnold, Leavitt,Frechet,Knudsen, Gandelman

Drs.Leavitt, Marzolat w/prospective patients

ongress ~h Against id Baldness ·s, Paris, France.

J

• .

April 24th - 26th, the 13th annual American Hair Loss I .~ ' Council Symposium took place in Houston, Texas. It was not ! one of largest symposiums this organization has put together.

In fact it was one of the smallest; this particular symposium Multi-talented Carlos Puig makes music and hands out awards was only able to attract three of the organization's manufacturer-importer members. However, it will probably be regarded the most up lifting meetings I have ever been a part of.. This group among the best ever put together by the AHLC Symposium of professionals rallied together behind their organization with Committee and it's Board of Directors. enthusiasm and support. There was much discussion of how to reThe event kicked off with "Managing the ew illennium...a pre- energize the membership and develop new and progressive members en cation by Carlos alenzuela detailing what the next several years to theAHLC. will mean to the service indusrry. The group then had a choice of I bet you are starting to think that this was all work and no play. finding out what it takes to find and hire the right employee or a Well, let me tell you, you couldh't be further from the truth. The technical presentation by Ms. Marsha Scott and Ms. Jackie Ingersoll AHLC cocktail reception featured a fabulous buffet sponsored by on women's cutting, styling and attachments. Mr. Andrew Merck Corporation, with music provided by a great trio featuring Gateriewictz later explained how to develop a business plan and stick none other then Carlos Puig. to it, while Gilberto Febres and Steve Lutrell demonstrated some of The symposium also featured its first silent auction, with proceeds the latest attachment methods. The afternoon started with Ms. Arlene devoted to the Shriners Burn Hospital in Galveston. I am proud to Alpert explaining what it takes to satisfy today's demanding client. tell you that the AHLC was able to donate over $3000 to this very The technical program consisted of Ms. Carmelita Santangelo worthwhile organization. demonstrating the latest coloring techniques, along with some interI hope to see everyone again next year. Please continue to support esting formulating and application concepts. This was combined the Board and your Association. with Mr. Lutrell 's styling to create the kind of looks that you see in today's fashion magazines. The afternoon was capped by the manufacturers-importers 11 in attendance highlighting their current introductions. Special Effects demonstrated its Wig Wizard Style and Dry, a new and simple way to dry and style 11 hair additions with little or no damage to the hair or base. Next, Jon Fortgang There are two popular strategies to get you there: presented his new thin skin full head 1. Make a lot of mistakes until you get it right. vacuum. Taylormade demonstrated its 2.

Get the help of someone who has already made -AND LEARNED FROM -those mistakes. new Liquid Skin Adhesive Program and Translucent Membrane Graft Technology (TMG), a first of it's kind If you can afford strategy# 1... you may not need my help. If you think you might benefit from program designed to eliminate concerns what we have learned - consider becoming part of the "growing" business of surgical hair over existing grafting adhesives and restoration with: systems. New Image presented a video - no investment required that showed how "temple hair" hair is -affiliation with the leading hair transplant physicians harvested. This was a real eye opener!

American Hairlines explained it's line -access to the best hair transplant marketing materials of machine-made synthetic wigs, hair - patient confidentiality guaranteed extensions, human hair wigs and custom designed hair additions for men and Hairpiece I Frontal Hair Transplant women, On-Rite sent a video presentaDon't let opportunity pass you by. Call me patient tion describing some of their newest now to find out how to reach the most motivated and products, but chose not to attend. qualified customers your business will ever have.

At the Annual Business meeting, the membership re-elected Ms. Marsha Scott and Ms. Jackie Ingersoll to the Board. Also elected was Ms. Peg Allan who will serve out the remaining year of Mr. Carlos Puig's term. The memberFAX: 407·774-9791 ADVANTAGE E·Mail: YBBALD@IX.NETCOM.COM Before andAlter Hair Transplants · Former Hairpiece Wearer ship was also made aware of the state of their Association and given the opportunity address the Board. This was one of

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12 The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

LICENSE TO PEEL!

By Holly Ralston Oyler

T

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he past few years have seen professional skirmishes flare up over who could, would -and should - do chemical peels. We are now faced with new laser peel and treatment equipment and once again people are asking who ought to be using it.

For additional entertainment, we have only to watch the neverending advertising struggle between the medical community (who are also battling among themselves... ) and the beauty industry. Of course, it all leads to the same place - the quest for the bottom line.

In a recent issue of a 64-page women 's magazine that I write for, there were 26 ads for Plastic Surgeons, 30 ads for salons, 10 for weight loss programs and 16 for laser-related treatments of all kinds. There was also a troubling letter to the editor entitled "Power Inside or Outside." The reader said, "Recently, while reading the March edition of Today's Woman magazine, I was troubled with conflicting emotions. On the one hand, I was thrilled that finally a magazine is tailored to the 'working woman,' a title I proudly claim. I found the aiiicles to be informative and helpful. However, I again felt an odd, familiar sinking sensation in the pit of my gut. This was because, as I opened to the first page, my senses were assaulted by an advertisement suggesting that my "gut" needed some work in order to conform to society's playboy mentality. While I understand your need to pay for this otherwise positive magazine, must such ads be found on every econd age {li erally)?"

WOW - pretty powerful i n¡t it. The Publisher's reply? "We rely strictly on income from advertisers to produce the magazine. Only because of their support, are we able to continue to service the 93,000 readers. Our society, for whatever reasons, honors outward success." Thank goodness I wrote my article on Kentucky Derby Foods (need a recipe for Kentucky Bourbon French Toast?)!

So the battle lines have been drawn, professional vs. professional, industry vs. industry. Who really has the license to peel? For the record, each state has different laws regarding who can do which procedures. The medical community is not controlled by any State Board of Cosmetology and the cosmetology community is not controlled by the State Board of Medical Licensing. However, before it is over, you will need a score card and big screen TV to see who comes out on top.

My personal thought is that everyone should learn to work together - there is more than enough business for everyone to handle, but then I am a dreamer at heart.

A few years ago I thought Louisville had

Dolly Does S ilicon Valley Hair loss professionals have long wondered how long it would be before medical researchers came up with a solution to genetically induced hair loss. Their interest peaked with every new advance in anjmal clorung. ow it is likely to rise again with the news of a $26 million patent agreement between The Roslin Institute and Menlo Park based, Geron Corporation. Under the terms of this deal, Dolly, the first animal to be cloned from an adult living cell, will share her secrets with the Califorrua company, allowing Geron's scientists to draw on

the perfect answer. One of the local ho pitals (with a very active Plastic and Aesthetic Unit) put together a Cosmetology Network that brought together Plastic Surgeons and Cosmetology professionals once a month for dinner and a meeting. The surgeons presented presentations to educate the cosmetology members about procedures.

Cosmetology professionals presented presentations showcasing their salons and services. It was a match made in heaven.

Referrals went both ways for months and months. Procedures and services were bartered and traded and wonderful working relationships were developed.

Then the mirror crashed. Insurance companies suddenly set limits on physicians and they scrambled to diversify. What better place to gather information than the Network.

Suddenly, in-house visits occurred and in-depth conversations took place over "outside" dinners about "your business". A few strokes of ego here and there, a drink or two and information was flowing. Within six months, Louisville went from a city full of non-retailing physicians to a city of full-service offices, including spa facilities and take-home product lines. The line had been crossed before the cosmetology professionals had time to blink!

Today, cosmetology professionals are purchasing equipment that leads the public to believe they are providing the same procedures that are offered by Plastic surgeons and Dermatologists. So who does have the license to peel, laser, suction and shape? Aesthetician Margaret Ancira says in a recent article, "The executive director of a state cosmetology board told me they o -ider d h mi J el o lik pra ricing medicine \Yithout a licen e:¡ There are no regulations, no definitions ana nothing is clearly stated. Guidelines are being written as new product lines expand, but until those guidelines are defined and on paper, chemical peeling and lasering by any licensed person is probably legal. That is not something that makes the medical community happy and they feel it is a very gray legal area at best.

This is an issue I would like to explore in depth during the next few months, but 1 will need your help to do so. If you would like to take part researching "Who Has The License To Peel," please contact The National Hair Journal, or me. I will be setting up a focus group to address this issue and will report on its conclusions later in the year in the Journal.

Holly Oyler is Director of the NHJ Medical Imaging Division. She is well known for her work with chemotherapy and alopecia patients and p ublishes regularly in Today s Woman.

Holly is a member of the American Cancer Society, serving on the Board of Directors of the Jefferson County Unit and the Kentucky Breast Cancer Coalition.

the nuclear-transfer cloning techniques used to create Dolly. Dolly was cloned in 1996 and grew from an egg nucleus to become a healthy; living mammal who later gave birth to three lambs of her own. Geron sponsors biotechnology research and has a special interest in transplant therapies bas~d on human stem cells. These are the cells that generate all other living organisms in the body and are expected to herald a new era of medical care based on the development of new body tissue. This would finally allow doctors to cultivate replacement body parts and provide therapies for degenerative diseases such as diabetes, Parkinson's disease and even hair loss!

13 The National Hair Journal Summer 1999 Adver ti sment

On the road with On Rite in Europe A cold rain greeted us when we arrived this gave the first of many demonstrations I In tum, the orwegians demonstrated January morning at Charles DeGaulle saw him lead during the trip. Perming and their mastery of styling, from "punk" styles Airport, making Paris seem more like ew color were prime topics, as well as attach- that are mainly the purview of the young, to York City than the City of Light. But we ment methods and other aspects of the sale more formal looks that are deemed approweren't in Paris for the weather, the sights, and delivery process. There was much dis- priate for businessmen and other corporate or even the food, for that matter. Andy cussion, a lot of give and take, and where types. The orwegians also demonstrated Wright and the On Rite company language failed , gestures and scissors an incredible curiosity in some of the prodentourage were on yet another tour of his became the preferred means of communi- uct innovations Andy is pioneering, specifiEuropean distributors and studios. cation. cally in the area of hair replacement for Our first stop was the On Rite distributor Next, we were off to orway, which women in need. in France, a Mr. Famechon, who has been while only an hour and a half plane ride I was amazed at how much respect and appointed by the French~---------------------------, admiration the dealers and government as the country's distributors throughout only recognized authority on Europe had for Mr. Wright, human hair--the government including those we met on a utilizes him as an advisor to brief side trip to Sweden. the court when such cases (Sweden, by the way, is the most fashion forward of all come before a judge. His On Rite distributorship covers the Scandinavian countries.) the entire country of In turn, Mr. Wright took all France, as well as portions their questions and comof Switzerland and the ments very seriously, answerNetherlands. ing or explaining with great Over a delightful lunch of attention to detail.

Coquille St. Jacques at a Later on, Andy said to me neighborhood bistro, Mr. that, "you know, I'm trying to Famechon regaled us with build something here, and do his personal history and A technical demonstration/seminar with Mr. Famechon it the right way. There's no (center, in suit) takes place in a suburban Parisian studio. need for these people to view of France,s hair replacement industry. Before the trip, Mr. away, seemed to be worlds apart. The make the mistakes we did when we first Wright had told me that the European mar- scenery is entirely different, not at all what started pioneering this business back in the ket is becoming very much like the United I expected (I've seen too many Viking U.S. They can learn from them instead." I States; his distributor's description of the movies), and the Norwegian people differ then asked Andy how many more European markedly from the French in both appear- countries he's involved in and learned "the French industry confirmed this.

Admittedly, the marketing techniques prac- ance and manner. Some of the famous total would come to approximately 20 difticed in Europe are still not quite as sophis- French gaiety and flair for the dramatic ferent countries, if we include the Middle ticated as those in America, as the cost of were absent, but make no mistake, Norway East."

Despite all the fun we had (there were TV commercials is prohibitive. But make is definitely European in outlook and disbanquets almost every night, and the no mistake, the Europeans are rapidly position. The people are well groomed, evolving with the adoption of several very fashionably dressed, and incredibly bos- Scandinavians do have a p~oclivity for toast making), it was clear that this trip was American practices, telemarketing, aggres- pitable. exemplary of On Rite's aggressive approach It was in Norway that I watched Mr. sive lead management, and innovative sales programs, thanks to the influence of Wright lead several more educational sem- to the development of the hair replacement individuals uch as right. A well. inar . a we ll a demon tration . The business in countries outside the U.S. Andy ' orwegian hair technicians and tudio \ right believes that with the advent of the the technical aspects of hair replacement are rapidly approaching American stan- owners, much like the French, were very Internet, and the more widespread use of dards and even surpassing them in some interested in how the American market dif- TV, most of these countries could be equal respects. fers from their own . There were also to their American counterparts in hair We saw this first hand when Mr. many questions about the latest replacement. "Yeah, it's a personal goal of Famechon led us to some of the studios he in American hair fashions ; just as mine to bring them to that level. You know supplies exclusively with On Rite prod- in France, the latest On Rite permanent me, I never do anything half way," Wright ucts. It was there that Mr. Wright, with the attachm ent methods a lso generated admitted. And off we went to yet another educational seminar. help of an American-trained technician, great interest.

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14 The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

The National Hair Journal PROMOTING

COOPERATION BETWEEN T HE ARTISTRY O F HA IR REPLACEMENT A N D THE SCIE N CE OF HA I R R ESTORAT I O N

REPORT FROM THE LIVE WORKSHOP Women Tell Men How! Hair Growth Drugs Although most hair transplant surgeons are men, some of the most important findings in hair loss research and medical treatment have come from female researchers. Many of these medical authorities were in Orlando in April to attend the 5th annual LIVE HAIR TRANSPLANT SURGERY WORKSHOP. Dr. Marty Sowaya, adjunct professor of dermatology at the University of Miami and clinical researcher for major corporations such as Merck & Company, BristolMyers-Squibb and Neutrogena, presented a comprehensive review of hair loss treatments past, present and future. As one of the leading authorities in Finasteride research, Dr Sowaya works closely with the nation's top drug companies to develop clinical evaluations of their new hair therapies. In a detailed presentation, she demonstrated how healthy hair grow in natural groupings. Utilizing cross-section microscopic photography, Dr Sowaya presented striking views of the naturally occurring hair bundles.

In a two-year study into the efficacy of Propecia (Finasteride) for males experiencing hereditary hair loss, Dr. Sowaya helped to profile patients who were most likely to benefit from this therapy. The results of a double-blind study indicated that Propecia provided some results in over 80% of the men who used it. 5% of the men using Propecia demonstrated 'significant' new hair growth, nearly 1/3 reported modest regrowth, and less than 1/3 saw only slight improvement of new hair. Note, women are not advised to use or handle the drug as it can cause birth defects. In summary, this study supports Propecia as a 'stabilizer' of hair loss. In your reporter's opinion, one of this drug's greatest benefits may be its ability to let patients feel they have more control over their hair's destiny. Indeed, interviews with hair transplant doctors confirm that many of them now suggest Propecia to their patients who want to keep their remaining hair while they add more density to problem spots with transplants.

Painful Scalp Syndrome Dr. Maria Hordinsky, a professor of Dermatology at the University of Minnesota and an expert in the field of scalp disorders, presented a detai led overview of the myriad of known skin problems found on the head. For non-medical hair replacement attendees, her presentation was an eye-opener. Dr. Hordinsky reminded hair transplant surgeons to be cautious in their haste to perform surgery on balding areas. She pointed out thatmisdiagnosis of the underlying

F R 0

T

M

T H E

his is the time of year we know as 'meeting overload'.

For some reason, it seems every manufacturer, medical group and national hair organization chooses the spring as the time to hold their event. From the journalist's viewpoint, this provides some challenges. The NHJ wants to be at every event where new ideas are being presented and to report what is happening in the industry. This is not always possible. While our editor- in-chief was in Paris reporting on the international hair industry, I was at home in Florida covering what is traditionally the most educational hands-on meeting in the hair transplant field. The World Hair Society Live Surgery Workshop, hosted by Dr. Matt Leavitt in Orlando. I00 or more of the 'Who's Who' of hair surgery get together each year to share techniques and information - something many of us would like to see brought back into non-medical business. It's truly remarkable how much knowledge is 'laid ori the table' at the WHS meeting by doctors who are often competitors with each other. On display were new instruments to harvest more donor tissue quickly, new instruments to implant grafts and to make recipient sites are varied and revolutionary. New techniques to return bald areas to a natural hair-bearing condition

EDl' TO R

were demonstrated utilizing the latest tools and strategies.

The results were astounding.

In the lecture portion of the meeting, experts in the area of hair growth research, scalp disorders and treatment, gene mapping, hair cloning left little doubt as to the forward thinking mentality of this group. Certainly the success of Propecia in stabilizing baldness might make some surgeons insecure about their future. However, instead of sitting back and 'wringing their hands' over developments that could change their business, these surgeons looked for ways to incorporate the new treatments into their practice and are already making plans for the impact of other developments on their business. In the medical section you'll read some of the highlights of the meeting and about the recent AHLC Symposium in Houston. We've also reported on the current struggles of the not-for-profit kid's wig program, "Locks of Love." Dr. Gary Hitzig gives us an update on the use of Lasers in hair transplant surgery and our Commentary section offers some insight into the psychological challenge that all consultants face with prospective clients/patients.

John Vincent, Editor

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15 The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

...

Excerpts from "The Future of the Hair Transplant Surgery Practice" As presented in a panel discussion at the 5th Annual WHS, Orlando, Fl, March '99 Although the topic of this round table discussion was the past, present and future of the transplant business, the pace of change led most panelists to look more towards the future. Dr. Patrick Frechet from Paris, France, pointed out that as a one-man practitioner, he enjoys special flexibility, such as the luxury of being able to schedule multiple transplant patients in one day. Dr.

From L oR : Drs. Brad Kurgis, Matt L. Leavitt, Mel Mayer, John P. Cole, Russell Knudsen, James Arnold, and Paul Straub

cause of baldness in certain individuals could lead to unexpected results. Some non-medical hair consultants may recall talking with hair transplant candidates who claimed that their hair "hurt" when they combed it or when their scalp was rubbed.

Dr. Hordinsky shed light on this unique disorder that she has labeled, Painful Scalp Syndrome. Her studies point to a nerve condition around the hair follicle that is irritated by something she calls "Substance P." Dr Hordinsky's advice to anyone experiencing these unusual scalp conditions is to contact her or one of her colleagues who specialize in dermatologic research.

Hair Loss In My Genes!

Dr. Angela Christiano, the heralded researcher from Cornell University known ' for her pioneering efforts to track the 'hair loss gene' (see the NHJ, winter 98 report) presented an update on her research to isolate the basic me enger of baldne .

The first person to report on having Dr. Angela Christa no found the gene she calls the "hairless" gene, Dr Christiano is now engaged in new research involving the injection of healthy genes into the follicles of hairless mice. Her theory is that a hair follicle should be able to grow hair if a healthy gene is introduced into it. As hair

loss in many individuals is simply the result of body having an auto immune reaction to its own hair, Dr. Christiano hopes to 'educate' the organ that produces these hair killers not to attack the healthy hair cells, thus allowing hair to grow again.

In response to questions about the impact of her research on established hair replacement procedures, Dr. Christiano says the field is probably safe for the next 10 years or so.

More to Clone Not about to leave the field of hair loss research solely to female scientists, Dr.Jung Chui Kim presented the results of his continuing study into hair cloning. (first reported in the NHJ Winter'98) Unlike the work of Dr. Christiano who is careful to avoid terms like "cloning" and "genetic engineering,'' Dr. Kim is unique in his seemingly one-man cloning crusade to discover if limited donor hair can be divided to render multiple transplantable hairs.

Dr. Kim al ore ealed that he i attempting to ' create ne\ hair by introducing papillary stem cells into the dermis of the skin, hoping to foster new growth, He is using himself as the primary "guinea pig."

Despite a limited budget to fund his research, the Korean M.D. and Ph.D., continues to break new ground and stimulate the interest of transplant surgeons around the world.

Drs. Frecbet,Leavitt, and Arnold

Frechet told the round table that he believed automation of the graft cutting and implanting part of the procedure would become more important. Dr. James Arnold, who practices in the "Silicon Valley" and has designed a number of surgical instruments widely used by hair transplant surgeons, agreed there would be more automation, but pointed out that the final result would remain in the hands of the surgeon. However, he saw computers becoming more important in 'reading' the condition of the donor hair. "Innovation is now at a high point" he added. Dr. Marcelo Gandelman of Brazil, always philosophical about the hair transplant experience, agreed with the importance of the e ne\ technique adding ...In medicine a in lo e there is no ne er and no forever!" Medical techniques, he said, are "transitory." Dr. Martin Unger of Toronto continued this theme, observing "Everything old is new." He encouraged surgeons to have all the tools and knowledge at their disposal to offer the patient the very best that's available. WHS president and workshop chairman, Dr. Matt

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Leavitt, stressed that a good hair transplant is the one that is tailored to the individual.

While the frontal hairline should always be created from one-hair grafts in random patterns, he stated, the balance of the procedure should be designed to best accommodate the patient, not the technique the surgeon is most comfortable doing. He also noted that improved technology was making large transplant sessions more satisfactory for more patients and that this was reducing the number of scalp reductions necessary to achieve 'immediate' results.

Medical News from the 1999 American Hair Loss Council Symposium As part of the medical education portion of the meeting, outgoing board president, Dr. Carlos Puig, and current medical board member, Dr. Gary Hitzig reported on hair cloning research and new and current drugs being used in the treatment of hair loss. Dr. Hitzig's presentation gave a historical perspective of some of the snake oil cures offered for hair loss over the years and elaborated on a research study finding on the use of Minoxidil and Finasteride (reported in this issue in more detail).

Dr. Hitzig also reported his research with a recent product for treating thinning hair that shows promising results. Tricomin hair products, produced by the ProCyte Corporation of Redmond, Washington, contain triamino copper compounds that have shown to produce higher hair counts and thicker hair in men and women. While not approved as a hair loss drug at this point, Dr. Hitzig states he has seen better results from patients using Tricomin products than those using Rogaine. The ProCyte Corporation is known among transplant physicians for its GraftCyte products. (See Summer -NHJ report) GraftCyte is a post-operative wound dressing that has been proven to produce faster results of new growth in transplanted hair and faster skin healing among those who use the product versus traditional post operative care utilizing sterile soaks and scab moistening applications. lllJ

Coming Next Edition Meet Dr. Bosley Get to know industry leader and icon, Dr. L.Lee Bosley.

Often called the "father" of Hair Transplantation.

Anatomy of A Hair Show Darryl Graham takes you behind the scenes of a typical hair show and shares the blood, sweat and tears that goes into producing a professional, smooth running meeting.

"Stress About Less" Results of a nationwide survey funded

by Merck & Co., Inc., that shows mens hair loss causes stress in romantic relationships.

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Attachment Series And in our continuing Attachment Series, NHJ looks at Clip Attachments with the expert guidance of Charlotte Jayne.

16 The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

FOLLICULAR UNIT COUPLING -THE ROLE OF SLOT GRAFTING IN HAIR TRANSPLANTATION

T

.

made in a swirl pattern with the incisions nificantly less density (C02 round 18.1 parallel to the growth pattern of the exist- hairs/cm2 vs. C02 slot 27.1 hairs/cm2).0n ing terminal hairs. By visual examination the angling the incision the Redfield slot incisions grafts can be directed to appear significantly grow sideways or even denser compared to the backward in the anterior Erbium sites (Fig 3). vertex. We typically use This visual difference small linear grafts and may indicate that the follicular units along the densometer is not as part and periphery of the useful in measuring pattern with larger linear Fig.2 Patient before and after vertex recipient site density grafts for central density. pattern transplantation with linear slot which is not as uniform grafts. Note natural growth pattern In March of 1998 at the and flow. as donor density. Slot World Association of Punch sharpness and Hair Restoration Surgeons (WAHRS) live consistency is as vital as the technique the surgical workshop the Redfield Slot Punch surgeon uses to make the slots. It is now was compared to 3 forms of laser hair feasible to transplant up to 5,000 hairs transplantation. The vertex was broken up (Approximately 600 to 700 grafts) in 2-4 into 4 quadrants. In the left posterior region hours with 2-4 technicians.

I .2mm round recipient sites were made Finally, let me emphasize that the transwith the Erbium laser; right posterior plant session must consist of several techregion sites were 1.3mm round holes and niques integrated together to achieve the made by the C02 best patient result and satisfaction. laser; anterior left Small follicular sites were 3.0mm units create the slots made with best hairlines. the C02 laser and Smaller coupled right anterior sites follicular units were 3.2mm slots (small linear made by the grafts m slots) Redfield slot Punch. All grafts can create a more natural part and were prepared lower vertex from two 2.Smm Larger wide donor strips. Fig. 3 Top left Erbium sites, top right C02 laser holes, bot- swirl.

Each quadrant had tom leftC02 slots, and bottom rightHitzig/Redfield slots. CFU's can create significant centhe same number of grafts. As presented in the ISHRS meet- tral density without sacrificing naturalness. ing in Washington, the Redfield Slot inci- This combination is where I see Hair sions healed faster and with less crusting Transplantation in the beginning of 21st than the laser sites. Growth was earlier and century. density and direction of hair were significantly better from the Redfield ite . Dr. Hit::ig a director of AHLC and praclea uremem taken ''ith the d om er rice hair rronsplam suNery at his clinic indicated almost identical density in the on Long Island, Y. He is the inventor of Erbium and Redfield Slot Punch sites the Hitzig Linear Punch, US. Patent #: (Erbium 40.7 hairs/cm2 vs. Redfield 45.3 5,792,163, and has a financial interest in hairs/cm2). The C02 lasers both had sig- The Redfield Slot Punch

he controversy of exclusive and rarely does the patient experifollicular unit grafting vs. ence the frizziness or kinky hair combination mini-micro growth that often occurs after tragrafts is one which will continue ditional round grafts or larger into the next millennium. While slits. Due to the narrowness of the attending the annual International grafts, they can safely be placed Society for Hair Restoration Gary S. Hiztig, M.D. closer together than round mini Surgery (ISHRS) meeting in Washington, grafts. Within the frontal zone we will typD.C. I was impressed by the number of ically create a lcm to 2cm hairline zone of experienced hair transplant surgeons who small 1-3 hair follicular units, progressivefound a combination method the most ly followed by larger linear grafts as we practical and effective. Although there was move anterior and central on the scalp. The no shortage of follicular unit purists, many spacing between 0.5mm x 2.5mm linear of the surgeons expressed frustration with grafts behind the hairline zone is typically follicular unit transplantation only. Patient lmm apart. To fill gaps between slot incidissatisfaction with density, the high cost sions small slits containing single follicular in time and staff, as well as the risk of graft units are used. By staggering the larger linsurvival from dissecear graft into the tion, manipulation anterior of the hairand drying were line zone we are points of concern. able to blend the Faced with the hairs creating a dilemma that most very natural prospective patients appearance with do not have unlimitsignificant density ed time, financial in a single session. resources or donor Healing is quick area, the hair trans- Fig. I Before & after combination transpantation and virtually undeplant surgeon should be able to offer meth- tectable. The use of GraftCyte Moist ods that can achieve a natural cosmetic Dressings and Concentrate Spray in the appearance while remaining affordable to post surgical protocol has helped enhance the average patient (Fig 1). Procedures healing and minimize hair shedding after involving 1,500 to 4,000 grafts with teams transplantation. Hair direction is easier to of 4 to 8 assistants working on a single control with linear slot incisions. Site incipatient for over 8 hours can be unnecessar- sions are made at an angle so the graft lies ily dangerous both to the patient and the flat with the scalp and the hairs exit the ultimate cosmetic result. Such complexity, scalp normally, rather than sticking straight repetition, varying skill levels of staff and up. The incision angle should parallel the handling and manipulation of tissue cannot angle of growth of exi ting urrounding be performed consistently in most environ- hair. similar to the exci ion angle of the ments with a high level of quality. These multi-blade scalpel when removing the types of procedures in most cases cannot donor strips. The vertex swirl pattern is an be performed cost effectively for the doctor area where the Redfield Punch is particuor patient. Patient dissatisfaction with den- larly effective (Fig 2). Slot incisions can be sity versus cost is not always soothed with how natural it looks. The issue of these lengthy procedures may become moot in the U.S. as some states are planning legislation to limit in-office cosmetic procedures to 4 hours and those procedures taking longer will only be allowed to be per--formed in a hospital or licensed ambulatory facility.

Linear slot grafting was developed so that a slightly larger 4 to 10 hair graft could be transplanted without the cosmetic limitations of round grafts or the compression of We at The ww Hair Factory continu e to develop slits. The multi-blade scalpel can excise new and superior products like our Starbi z model. donor strips with a width equal to the length of the slot incision. This makes it We've completely reorg anized our bu siness to easy to dissect narrow (0.5mm) linear hair track your ord er from pl acement to delivery to bearing grafts. These narrow linear grafts eliminate errors and keep you updat ed. contain "Coupled Follicular Units" (CFU's). These CFU's are groups of follicular units in natural distribution. The spacYou will never be "business as usual" to us ing between follicular units is the same as because you are our business! it is in the donor area. With the use of the Redfield Slot Punch* (Redfield Corp., For a limited tim e, w e are offering free videos on Montvale, NJ) a similar size sliver of bald how to (1) accurately order a cu stom unit, (2) pick recipient tissue is removed creating a perfect fit for the linear graft. The receptor the right stock model for your clients, or (3) repair scalp integrity is not altered or comproyour client's unit the right w ay. mised because corresponding tissue replaces the bald tissue removed and the l'our cus,ers will swear they've grown hair again! ultimate growth appearance is natural because the hairs are not compressed or distorted. It also exponentially increases P lease c a ll us at (800) 421-9524. Don't w a it, the speed of the procedure arid significantcal l now! Because quality a lways improves ly lessens the X factor (manipulation, dryyour performance . G et th e unfair adv antages ing, crushing and striping of grafts) therefrom The wvv Hair Factory. by insuring minimal hair loss in the transfer. In our practice we have seen that without graft distortion, the hairs grow softly

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~"--~~~~~~~~~~~

Are they innovative with new products?

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Or, are they just carrying on "business as usual"?

17 The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

HAiR

I

I. AIR

CloNiNG

The Research of Dr. Jung Chu! Kim

A

nyone who has been advised that they have limited donor hair for a hair transplant procedure, and watches the news today wants to know, "If they can clone an entire sheep, why not clone human hair?" As a result of the tireless efforts of a likeable, but littleknown South Korean researcher, the answer may be: In the not-to-distant future!

At the most recent meeting of the World Association of Hair Restoration Surgeons (WAHRS), held in Orlando, Florida, Dr, Jung Chul Kim, an associate professor at the Kyungpook National University in Taegu, Korea, reported his progress in human hair cloning to a distinguished gathering of hair transplant surgeons. Dr. Kim reported his discovery of being able to remove and divide a hair follicle in two, and, after re-implanting both halves in the scalp, observe two complete hairs develop. Although not the answer for those with "Kojak-like" donor hair today dreaming of "Elvis-like" thickness tomorrow, Dr. Kim's research may lead to more significant advances.

Although he is blessed with an abundance of his own hair, Dr. Kim says that his research into hair restoration came about largely by accident. While he was , doing research during a mandatory stint in the Korean Army, Dr. Kim became

interested in what triggers hair to tum gray. Using a spotted pig as a test case, the surgeon transplanted hair follicles from the dark patches to the lighter ones to see if the genetics of the dark hair would prevail. "My experiment failed," he points out, but it sparked my interest in the physiology of hair.

Six or seven years ago, as the physician was studying for his Ph.D. in Immunology at Johns-Hopkins University, a obel-laureate professor suggested that Dr. Kim consider studying the cellular structure of hair. He was later introduced to a Japanese company, which recognized the commercial implications of finding an answer to the follicularlychallenged! Armed with a grant to explore his theories, Dr. Kim went on to prove hair could reproduce in a way never before thought possible.

Most researchers had previously assumed that the bulb, or papilla, of the hair follicle was responsible for generating the complete hair. Dr. Kim discovered that if a hair follicle was transected and re-planted at the proper depth in the skin, the bottom half would eventually grow a complete hair along with a sebaceous (oil) gland. More surprisingly however, the re-implanted top half would also produce a complete hair, including a new bulb and the pigment-producing cells, which produce the color of the hair!

Begging an answer for those with hopes of a copious mane of new hair, Dr. Kim was asked if his research might lead to new hair being grown in the lab for later transplantation. The shy, soft-spoken medical academic said, "Very likely''.

When pressed for a time frame, Dr. Kim predicted "5 years or less!"

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18 The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

I'm delighted to again share a section with you from the MARKETING AND SALES ENCYCLOPEDIA PROGRAM FOR THE HAIR REPLACEMENT INDUSTRY I teach something called the "automatic close." It's something that's used at the conclusion of the consultation with prospects to get them to order right away, and is very powerful. It's very assumptive, and every word that I share has been developed in a sequence to provide great power in influencing your prospects. Note the words I share here very carefully. You should go ahead and learn to say this verbatim.

It's important that you use the powerful words I'm sharing with you at the right time. You use this "automatic close" after you've already given the price. You DO NOT give the price AFTER you do this close. That would immediately dampen the prospect's enthusiasm. So, again, give the price first, then use this "automatic close."

By the way, it would be best to have the prospect sitting in front of a mirror during the concluding part of the consultation, with you standing behind him/her (you should set up your office so that you can do this). Introduce price, then discuss styles with him/her for a couple of minutes in front of the mirror. Then say this: "Let me tell you what happens from here. It takes us about a half an hour to order the hair today. Then it takes us about 8 weeks to get everything prepared. You'll come in at that time for a 2-hour appointment.

When the hair is first applied it will be quite long, hanging over your eyes. But then, right before your eyes we cut and shape and blend the hair to the point where you look in the mirror and are excited again about your appearance. You look

THE AUTOMATIC CLOSE

by Tim Paulsen again the way that you want to look. As you can imagine, this will be a very exciting time for you, won't it?"

As you say these words, you should be using hand gestures too. For example, I have used with great effectiveness the following approach: I show them with my hands (on their head) where the hair is going to hang into their eyes when first applied ... then I gradually use a cutting motion with my fingers (like my fingers are the scissors), and I quickly move the fingers up to the hairline area and put my fingers where the new hairline is going to go (as described in the "finger hairline" article that I wrote about in the last issue of the National Hair Journal).

As you say the LAST SENTENCE, which is "As you can imagine, this will be a very exciting time for you, won't it?!" YOU MUST SMILE AND NOD YOUR HEAD UP AND DOWN. This is a beautiful, powerful technique, because it will almost force the prospect sitting there to smile and nod his/her head up and down too.

By getting them to smile, and to nod their head affirmatively, you have prepared them to say YES to ordering the hair.

(Remember, you should be standing behind him/her as he/she is sitting in front of the mirror, as you say all of this.)

Finish the "automatic close" by asking a "yes or yes" type of question (as opposed to a "yes or no" type of question). A "yes or yes" question is one that has a choice of two "yes" questions. So you'll want to ask questions like "So, let me get this straight...would you prefer a style like

this? (Show a picture), or one like this? (show another picture)?,'' or "Would you prefer an appointment to get the new hair cut in early in the week, or would later be better?" or "Will you be bringing someone with you when you get the additional hair, or will you be coming alone?", or "We take credit cards or personal checks ... which would you prefer using today?" Again, you simply want to ask a "yes or yes" question at the conclusion of the "automatic close." Use an ASSUMPTIVE attitude when you use this close, acting as if you are certain the person is going to go ahead and order the hair at that appointment.

Don't say things like "IF you decide to do this ..." Just assume they are going to do it.

There can't be any doubt in your mind that the prospect is going to go ahead and get involved. This needs to be reflected in your body language, voice and words.

By the way, the assumptive close is a very important part to closing the sale automatically. When you assume someone is going to do something, they will feel compelled to go along with your assumption.

TO REVIEW THE WORDS: After giving the price, you direct their attention away from the money by saying, "Let me tell you what happens from here. It takes us about a half an hour to order the hair today.

Then it takes us about 8 weeks to get everything prepared. You'll come in at that time for a 2-hour appointment. When the hair is first applied it will be quite long, hanging over your eyes. But then, right before your eyes we cut and hape and

blend the hair to th point where you look in the mirror and are excited again about your appearance. You look again the way that you want to look. As you can imagine, this will be a very exciting time for you, won't it?" "Now, let me get straight on the style that you want. Do you prefer this style, or would this other style be better?" THEN PROCEED TO WRITE UP THE ORDER ON THE ORDER SHEET! Don't stop writing up the order.

The momentum will make the order automatic in many, many cases! After writing up the order, simply ask "Now, we take checks, Mastercard, Visa and American Express. How would you like to take care of this today?"

I have sold hundreds and hundreds of clients using this close. It's makes it so easy, so effortless. Of course, it doesn't work 100% of the time, but it'll work A LOT! Use it, and enjoy the many sales it will create for you.

So there you have my powerful "AUTOMATIC CLOSE." Use it in good health!

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19 The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

Tlte National Hair Journal Editor in Chief Christopher R. Webb

CLIENTral<99

Creative Director Avi Roth

Contributing Editors Medical Section John' Vincent

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Europe Hans Diks, The Netherlands Medical Imaging Holly Ralston Oyler Technical& Education Charlotte Jayne Legal Franck E.Yourick

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June 27 - 28 Great Lengths I00% Human Hair Strands Application 2day seminar, Phoenix, AZ Contact: Brett Butcher 800 999-0809 June 25-27 Women's Health Boutique 5th Annual Conference & Trade Show.

Group of retail franchises serving women's special needs such as hair loss during chemotherapy Cypress, TX (outside Houston) Info: Larry Kyle of WHB. Tel: 888-844-6559, Fax: 281373-4450 June 28 1999-Wig Training -Gisela Mayer Wig Collection, Naturally Yours, Western Springs, IL Contact Susan Thomas 800-497-7005.

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August 22 & 23 Cyberhair & Micro Point Link Training - Exclusive Cyberhair(r) Program. IHI Dev't Ctr. - Mpls, MN. Contact Sara at (800) 328-03II ext.241.

September 10-11 Live Hair Transplant Surgery Workshop: Dr. DowStough Contact Carol: 501-623-6100 September 12-13 Woman's Hair Replacement Conclave The Radisson, Bahia Mar Beach Resort Ft. Lauderdale, Fl. 800-327-5588 or 1-954-677-0505 for details on classes September 11-13, 1999 New Image's 1999 Windy City Conference New Image will address the ladies' market and introduce new men's systems. Chicago, IL. Call 800-359-4247 for further information.

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20 The National Hair Journal Summer 1999

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