Retail Beauty 68 Winter 2021

68 WINTER 2021

Product

Picks MYER BUYERS

BEAUTY MUST-HAVES

Interview Paul Zahra, CEO

of the Australian Retailers Association

Model behaviour 5 MINS WITH CELESTE BARBER

Trends

Why skincare is the epicentre of personalisation

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EDITOR’S LETTER

There is nothing permanent except change

You may have noticed from the front cover we have some exciting news to announce. We have officially rebranded from esprit to Retail Beauty. So, why the name change?

Well, we’re moving with the times, and getting to the point of what we’re all about – retail beauty.

Every quarterly issue will still contain the same, meaty content and be dedicated to profiles of local and international industry heavyweights, what’s trending now, marketing moves, issues affecting the industry, analysis and insights, staff training and strategies, brand profiles and the latest industry news, peer conversations and launches.

However, part of our strategy is to embrace the opportunities presented by digital diversification. As traditional bricks and mortar stores adapt to the changing landscape, so too are we.

Today, Retail Beauty is much more than a magazine - we have a revamped website, a weekly e-newsletter, video content, a podcast, data analytics, social media channels and much more.

We aim to remain the most trusted source of information for those in the retail beauty industry but understand our

audience is consuming its content in a variety of ways. In a world full of digital and social noise, we are keeping things simple by changing our name to better reflect what we’re about – Retail Beauty.

We have some fantastic features in this issue, including a chat with the hilarious Celeste Barber, who is the latest MCo Beauty brand ambassador, tips and tricks on how beauty advisors can deepen their relationships with regular customers, a look at the current trends shaping personalisation in beauty, the Myer beauty buyers’ top product picks, an extensive influencer section and much more.

We have also expanded our fragrance part of the magazine, with an interview with internationally renowned perfumer Aurélien Guichard and the latest figures and insights direct from Fragrances of the World.

Moving forward, we hope to see more and more of our readers in person and catch up face-to-face now that restrictions have eased and the calendar is filling up with conferences, expos and events.

If you’re going to either the Australian Pharmacy Professional Conference & Trade Exhibition (APP) in Queensland or Naturally Good Expo in Sydney, look out

for myself and publisher Nicci Herrera roaming the floors, and make sure you stop and say hi.

If we don’t manage to see you in person, stay in touch by following our updates on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn. And don’t forget to sign up to our free weekly newsletter or subscribe to our quarterly print magazine, both which can be done via our website.

Thank you for your continued support - we hope you are as thrilled with our new look and name as much as we are.

OUR NEW SOCIAL HANDLES: retail_beauty_ retail_beauty_ RetailBeautyMagazine retail-beauty

MEET RETAIL BEAUTY’S NEW NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER, VERENA TAYLOR

Verena Taylor has over 25 years global sales and marketing experience with a variety of leading media organisations. The mother-of-one has a passion for living a healthy balanced lifestyle with 16 marathons under her belt. Originally from Adelaide, she forged her career with radio, moving to London for 10 years and now calls Sydney’s northern beaches home.

Contact her via email vtaylor@intermedia.com.au or phone on +61 (0) 406 818 066.

A NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHER, NICCI HERRERA

I’m very excited to be heading up the team as we evolve with the industry. The retail beauty industry is no longer just ‘hair, skin and nails’. The categories are expanding. It’s hard to believe brands like Weleda have been fighting for shelf space for 100 years, whereas today, the natural, cruelty-free beauty category is a must in all areas of retail beauty. I’m looking forward to continuing my passion, which is to help brands evolve in the retail market and focus on the next generation of leaders. Having a career in retail beauty is a career choice, not just a gap job.

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VEGAN FRIENDLY1

issue

68

Contents Subscribe to Retail Beauty online newsletter for insights, competitions, sales tips and more. www.RETAILBEAUTY.com.au

As a serum specialist, BOOST LAB is passionate about supercharging the effectiveness of skin routines, problem solving and its customers’ confidence. The company was founded on the ‘boost attitude’ – bringing next level expertise, energy, support, and sense of community to boosting results. The company researches, tests, formulates, innovates and supports its customers using only ‘clean science’. Clean science is a positive, ‘do no harm’ ethos that guarantees no nasties, no toxins, no cruelty, no mega-profits – just hyper-targeted, clinical quality products, at accessible prices, for stronger peace of mind.

RETAILBEAUTYMAGAZINE

@RETAIL_BEAUTY_

Previous issues 4

Editor’s Letter

6

Contents

8

Contributors

10 Cover Story – BOOST LAB

Contact details RETAIL BEAUTY Founder, Commercial & Creative Consultant Andrea Ferrari M: +61 (0)410 067 966 E: aferrari@intermedia.com.au Publisher and Commercial Director Nicci Herrera M: +61 (0)426 826 977 E: nherrera@intermedia.com.au Editor Michelle Ruzzene M: +61 (0)402 277 286 E: mruzzene@intermedia.com.au National Advertising Manager Verena Taylor M: +61 (0)406 818 066 E: vtaylor@intermedia.com.au Art Director Leanne Hogbin E: leanne@intermedia.com.au Mailing Address RETAIL BEAUTY P.O. Box 55, Glebe, NSW 2037 Australia Subscription Rates $132.00 per annum (Aus) $167.70 per annum (NZ) $205.20 per annum (Int) All rates are inclusive and AUS$.

Articles that appear in Retail Beauty may not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The opinions expressed in Retail Beauty are not necessarily those of the publishers.

Published by Percolate Media Pty Ltd – a division of Intermedia Group 41 Bridge Rd, Glebe NSW 2037 P: 02 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 4419 ACN: 629 613 583

14

rend – How Personalisation is T Fast-Tracking Beauty Product Development and Sales

18 I nterview – Paul Zahra, Chief Executive Officer, Australian Retailers Association 20 Industry News 34 T alking Point – Trends in New Products – Skincare Dominates 2021 First Half Releases 40 Pharmacy News

62 F ragrance Interview – Aurélien Guichard, Creative Perfumer and Co-Founder, Matiere Premiere 66 M ind Over Mouth Matters – Andrea Ferrari 68 C an’t be too Choosy – Olivia Ferrari 72 A ussie Made – Leigh Dole, Blow Bar Co 74 Buyers Lists – Myer 76 M y Journey – Anita Kaurinovic, PR & Influencer Marketing Manager – Luxury & Consumer Divisions, Coty 78 P R – What is Brand Activation and Why Do You Need It?

44 B eauty Shoot – Latest Skincare Launches

80 Online Shopping News

48 5 Minutes with… MCo Beauty Brand Ambassador Celeste Barber

88 Let’s Talk Shade – Michael Brown

50 Out and About 57 Beauty Shoot – Fragrances

86 Beauty Shoot – Winter Lipsticks

90 A Candle Delight – Icy Ling 92 Brand News

58 F ragrance Trends – Clayton Iloahia

95 B eauty & the Best – How to Deepen Customer Relationships

60 Fragrance News – Ainslie Walker

98 Have You Met… Rae Morris

Environmental statement: The Intermedia Group takes its Corporate and Social Responsibilities seriously and is committed to reducing its impact on the environment. We continuously strive to improve our environmental performance and to initiate additional CSR based projects and activities. As part of our company policy we ensure that the products and services used in the manufacture of this magazine are sourced from environmentally responsible suppliers. This magazine has been printed on paper produced from sustainably sourced wood and pulp fibre and is accredited under PEFC chain of custody. PEFC certified wood and paper products come from environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of forests. The wrapping used in the delivery process of this magazine is 100% biodegradable.

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Contributors

Founder

Commercial & Creative Consultant ANDREA FERRARI

One of her proudest professional moments was winning Beauty Directory’s first-ever Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism in 2011 peer-voted recognition. Andrea founded Retail Beauty, formerly known as esprit Magazine Australia, in 2004 coming from a heritage of founding the original Esprit in the UK in 1987. Armed with a diploma in Fashion Journalism from the London College of Fashion, Andrea completed her journalism training on the job at IPC Business Press on the leading weekly trade magazine, Hairdressers Journal. In the late 70s, London’s print and fashion industries were both hotbeds of creativity and Andrea cut her teeth as a writer and interviewer in the company of accomplished mentors.

Becoming editor of Beauty Counter, the UK pharmacy trade journal, she learned the power of the pharmacy assistant in the customer-to-purchase relationship. In 1987 Andrea fulfilled a gap in the UK market for a trade magazine for the retail beauty industry. Emigrating to Australia in 2003, she created esprit for the Australian market.

Associate Editor

Business Features

ELISABETH KING Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the bestselling book Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. As the grooming editor of Men’s Style she won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010.

AINSLIE WALKER Ainslie has worked with brands such as Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, The Refinery and Gentlemen’s Tonic in the UK. In April 2014, she was recognised in Australia for her contribution to Fragrance Journalism, receiving a Jasmine Award for Best Blog 2014.

Ainslie is available for spa, fragrance and retail consultancy, product development and fragrance journalism. www.ainsliewalker.com.

EMILY BENCIC As deputy editor of Appliance Retailer and editor of Retailbiz within the Intermedia Group, Emily has more than five years of experience writing about the local and global retail industry, as well as the appliance and technology sectors, covering the latest news from big brand retailers.

ICY LING Ni Hao (which means ‘Hello’ in Chinese). My name is Icy Ling, known as icybutterfly. Some people think I am an Australian Chinese influencer. Actually, I work for an East Coast, well recognised - high fashion, lifestyle and beauty magazine (to local Chinese), called ‘Indulgence’.

After working in retail, evolving to become a blogger and freelance editor, I have now become a senior fashion and beauty editor, also leading the magazine’s digital team – busy, but I am truly grateful for being able to work for my passion.

ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments.

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OLIVIA FERRARI Olivia is an English-born medium, masseuse and yoga teacher, based in Sydney’s inner west. Olivia has a customised approach to each individual client’s mind and body wellness derived from learnings she has gained from her studies and experience in Cambodia, India, Byron Bay and Sydney.

MICHAEL BROWN Growing up as a dancer , Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘art’ of makeup artistry. His career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney where he became a national makeup artist and trainer. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene. Michael is now not only a celebrity makeup artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as Marc Jacobs Beauty Ambassador.

BRANDEE MEIER Brandee began her photography career straight out of high school and has been shooting beauty products and fashion flatlays fore more than 20 years. Brandee has worked for a variety of brands on their advertising and product shoots including editorial work with Napoleon Perdis and Jane Iredale, is an expert at portraits and model shots, and has dabbled in numerous stepby-step make–up application shoots. Brandee shoots all of the beauty product pages for Retail Beauty, as well as Retail Beauty’s sister publications including Instyle and Professional Beauty. www.brandeemeier.com.au

NATURAL IS THE TOP 2021 LASH + BROW TREND If you’re like us you’ll be loving the current trend to more natural-looking lashes and brows.

Gone are the super structured block brows and highly-saturated lashes.

In their place are defined natural brows and lashes that enhance beauty without stealing the show.

Lash & Brow Dye Kit On your brows use a shade close to your natural colour, and apply with the spoolie (in the kit).

This will deposit colour onto the brow hairs with just a slight skin colouration.

On your lashes use Natural Black to add definition and extra shine.

Instant Brow Build a little extra colour coverage plus create that fluffy, natural brow look, by lightly applying in an upward and outward motion.

06.0009 - 08.2021

The gel-base will help create an instant ‘brow lamination’ look for the day.

1000HOUR Ambassador Tegan Martin wears 1000HOUR Lash & Brow Dye (Dark Brown), and 1000HOUR Instant Brows (Medium Brown).

IOOOhour.com.au A CHEMCORP INTERNATIONAL BRAND

POWER PACKED BOOST LAB Delivers Better, Brighter and Re-Charged Skin for Everyday Prices

by Elisabeth King Up until recently the most reasonably priced skincare formulas came from mass brands owned by major multinationals such as L’Oréal, Unilever and Procter & Gamble. If ingredients were named, they were usually patented blends with proprietary names. Today, more consumers understand and know about resultsdriven active ingredients and keep a sharp lookout for them when purchasing skincare products at all price levels.

Craig Schweighoffer, Founder of BOOST LAB, credits The Ordinary, the marquee brand of Canadian skincare company Deciem, with creating an entirely new skincare segment, which not only offers derm grade ingredients at everyday price points but also upped the transparency ante for the category overall.

“They did a great job and built a cult brand when others thought the high quality at reasonable prices concept would be hard to implement,” he notes.

Known as “the beauty world’s most exciting disrupter”, Deciem received the ultimate thumbs-up for its pioneering groundwork when Estée Lauder acquired a majority stake in the seven-year-old company in March this year for US$1 billion - the multinational’s largest ever outlay. The global market for serums is

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expected to rise from US$2.17 billion to US$4.61 billion by 2030 and that’s why we founded BOOST LAB, adds Schweighoffer.

FIVE STAR QUALITY AT A THREE STAR PRICE/TARGETING THE 7 MAJOR SKINCARE CONCERNS

We describe the BOOST LAB range as five-star quality at three-star prices, he says. Following a highly successful career developing major skincare and lifestyle brands such as Skin Physics, Ecoya and Trilogy, Schweighoffer has again underlined his trendspotting reputation with a range of single focus serums at great price points. “The major point-of-difference for BOOST LAB

was to create gold standard, clean beauty serums that address the seven major skincare concerns,” he says.

They are made in New Zealand, which has one of the highest reputations in the world for effective, science-based skincare and is a leading player in the natural beauty market, says Schweighoffer. “We engaged the best formulators and all of the products are dermatologically tested for use on sensitive skin. They are also free from nasties to fit with our do-no-harm philosophy. All of the serums are priced at $29.95, which is a very affordable price for clinical quality serums that help consumers to achieve clear, healthy and beautiful skin.”

The BOOST LAB range launched via its own online flagship store last October.

The targeted lineup includes AHA Glow Resurfacing Serum, 2-D Hyaluronic Hydro Boost Serum, Vitamin C Brightening Serum, Vitamin B3 Blemish Rescue Serum, Multi-Peptide Anti-Aging Serum, Retinol Night Renewal Serum and Bio-Active

MULTI-GENERATIONAL CUSTOMER BASE/ATTRACTING A WIDER AUDIENCE

We closely identified our customer base and we like to call them “Practical Beauties”, says Schweighoffer. “BOOST LAB’s core consumers are mainstream/beauty conscious women aged from 18 to 64. They believe that quality is more important than price and don’t believe in paying luxury prices when they don’t have to. Results are the most important measure of success for them and they have a significant preference for clean beauty products that incorporate natural ingredients.”

All of Boost Lab’s serums contain active ingredients that are thoroughly understood by women of all ages such as Vitamin C (a brightening antioxidant), retinol (a wrinkle reducer) and hyaluronic acid (a major hydrator). An on-trend message that played well on social media. “Consumers no longer want to settle for one-size-fits-all and BOOST LAB helps them to personalise their skincare routines,” says Schweighoffer. “We have also received major third-party endorsements such as a 4.5-star rating on beautyheaven, Australia’s leading beauty review site.”

The buzz for BOOST LAB intensified the fact that quality skincare is no longer defined by price points, distribution channels, retailers and e-commerce platforms as consumers search for authentic, functional and sensibly priced skincare products.

In February, BOOST LAB announced a partnership with Adore Beauty, one of Australia’s leading beauty e-tailers, to reach a wider audience. Adore Beauty are very happy with the launch numbers so far, says Schweighoffer. According to Danielle Chee, Senior Category Manager, Skincare & Wellness for Adore Beauty: “We are pleased to have BOOST LAB join our esteemed family of brands to service our growing database of discerning beauty consumers. In recent years, a spotlight has been shone on Australian beauty brands for the unique way in which they uphold the quality formula.”

STRONG APPEAL FOR PHARMACIES/ GROUNDBREAKING SKIN ADVISOR APP

With its scientific, clinical-looking packaging, BOOST LAB has strong appeal for pharmacies. “We are currently ranged by SuperPharmacy and iCare Pharmacy and

are in discussions with several other leading pharmacy banners,” says Schweighoffer.

“In addition to Adore Beauty, we are also available from Activeskin, Lookfantastic and RY.com.au, Australia’s largest haircare and skincare online store.”

BOOST LAB also dovetails well with pharmacies and online retailers because of its targeted self-select approach. In March, the brand launched its Skin Advisor AI platform.

“Skin Advisor is an AI facial analysis and recommendation app,” adds Schweighoffer.

“It offers free, personalised skincare advice in only a few minutes. Users answer a few questions such as age and where they live and they are invited to take a selfie. Selfies are optional but are recommended because they analyse a consumer’s skin condition using algorithms, 100 different metrics and 30,000 images of demographically representative people. The app was 12 months in development and allows consumers to shop from home because of a better understanding of their skin. But we are also looking to expand the platform in-store to assist our bricks-and-mortar retailers.”

There has been a great uptake due to Skin Advisor, says Schweighoffer.

“On average, consumers stay four times longer on our website and there’s a 2.5 times higher conversion rate. There’s also been a 30 per cent increase in shoppers adding to their carts.”

INTERNATIONAL EXPANSION/ SKINIMALISM ON-TREND

With A-beauty, as Australian beauty brands have been dubbed, riding high, international markets are a strong focus for Boost Lab. “We launched a flagship store on Alibaba’s Tmall in March and are also available on JD.com, the number two Chinese online giant,” says Schweighoffer. “We are also looking at Southeast Asia for future expansion.”

Schweighoffer has also dubbed the BOOST LAB lineup as serums for the people.

A comment that also clicks with the latest US skincare report from SkinStore, the leading retailer of premium skincare. The number one product of 2021 in the US is Vitamin C serum, with close to 1.5 million searches and serums in general cleared the 3 million search milestone - up 49 per cent from 2020.

COVER STORY

Eye Reset Serum. “Consumers can use them with their favourite moisturisers and cleansers or combine two or three for the best results,” says Schweighoffer. “An amazing anti-ageing routine is to combine the Multi-Peptide Anti-Aging Serum, Retinol Night Renewal Serum and the BioActive Eye Reset Serum, for example.”

Glowing skin also remains a popular desire and The Ordinary generated more than 7 million searches - up 71 per cent on 2020.

The Skinimalism trend has also surged in major markets such as the US, the UK and Australia since the beginning of the Covid-19 pandemic, says the NPD Group.

More consumers are adopting a back-to-basics skincare approach - cleanser, serum and moisturiser - which has led to an overall decline in overall prestige skincare sales as people have become more reluctant to spend, says Emma Fishwick, account manager for NPD. “At the same time, consumers focus on sustainability also means that Skinimalism has become very topical. Beauty buyers seem to be purchasing less products, and the products they are opting for are more targeted.”

One of Schweighoffer’s main aims is to build the sort of fervent fandom enjoyed

by The Ordinary and his vision is to create Australia’s first successful global beauty brand. A strategy based on Boost Lab’s ability to tick the seven of the major boxes of today’s skincare market - clean, proven active ingredients, Skinimalism, personalisation, natural, results-driven and affordable.

“We have some exciting developments in the pipeline for the third quarter, including a skin balancing serum and a serum for dry, irritated skin,” he adds. An expansion that will cement Boost Lab’s mission of changing the way women think about and buy skincare.

FAST FACTS:

CRAIG SCHWEIGHOFFER •W ith a formidable reputation as an entrepreneur and branding and rebranding expert, Schweighoffer entered the personal care and lifestyle space as the Founder & CEO of Ecoya/Trilogy from 2006 to 2012.

• From September 2014 to March 2020, he was the Founder/CEO of Biophysics, the brand owner of Australian cosmeceutical brand, Skin Physics, and Rapid Loss, Australia’s leading meal replacement shake and snack brand.

• I n May 2020, he founded Boost Lab, a groundbreaking new range of single focus skin treatment serums.

For further information - go to www.boostlabco.com

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |11

CommBank helps unlock opportunities for businesses An insights tool from CommBank is helping businesses learn more about their customers to improve overall customer experiences.

Graham Greenhalgh’s father was a butcher, as was his grandfather and great-grandfather. It stands to reason that Greenhalgh knows a bit about the meat retail business.

For more than 30 years, Greenhalgh has worked in customerfacing businesses, one of which ranked among Australia’s biggest wholesale exporters of meat.

But like all good business operators, Greenhalgh knows there’s always more to learn.

About 18 months ago, his family took over the Australian Meat Emporium, just before bushfires and a global pandemic sent many Australian businesses into a spin.

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The group serves about 4000 customers a week and boasts the biggest walk-in cool room in Sydney at 1,000sqm which holds in excess of $500,000 worth of meat inventory. They are a high-quality, low-cost operator, actively looking to scale and open more outlets.

Being a food retailer, the Australian Meat Emporium was not subject to lockdown and the pandemic in fact led to a surge in customers, a lift in profit and an opportunity to assess what was and wasn’t working well in the business.

In the space of two weeks, turnover quadrupled. The group had a five-year strategy to build customer numbers but within those two weeks they hit 50 percent above that five-year target.

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...CommBank’s Daily IQ tool (available with a CommBank Business Transaction Account or a CommBank EFTPOS terminal settling into a CommBank settlement account) gives him the data he needs to deliver better value to the consumer and improve their experience.

That figure may have been an anomaly created by the pandemic but it’s been an opportunity for the group to focus on customer retention.

Speaking from the company farm nestled on the western slopes of the Kosciusko range where he runs 3000 cattle on about 8000 acres, Greenhalgh, whose job title is Managing Director, says his fundamental interest is the consumer – what makes them tick, why do they purchase meat, what do they want to buy and what are the emerging trends.

He’s always on the lookout for ways to learn more about customers and says CommBank’s Daily IQ tool (available with a CommBank Business Transaction Account or a CommBank EFTPOS terminal settling into a CommBank settlement account) gives him the data he needs to deliver better value to the consumer and improve their experience.

“We don’t have money to throw away. So to be able to get those insights for free is of massive value to us,” Greenhalgh says.

The group uses the demographics tool to pull data on age and gender which they can use to target product and improve customer

service. The data is used to inform push advertising to the group’s target demographic. The research is reinforced by talking to customers in store about what they like and don’t like.

Each week the group runs a report focusing on demographic data and once a month they do a “heat map” to learn more about where their customers are coming from.

That then informs localised advertising and ensures the advertising budget is being used for maximum effect.

Greenhalgh says he also used Daily IQ to help with the group’s online strategy. He can better understand the location of sales activity so he can then ensure he has adequate delivery systems in place.

“It’s a terrific vehicle for us. And the beauty is, it’s painless. To be able to get insights that help you deliver something that doesn’t annoy anybody but makes the consumer experience better and cheaper, that’s what everyone in business is trying to do,” he says.

“We only pull certain information, but I’m sure it’s got more horsepower than that.”

Tailored business tips at your fingertips.

That’s a business app-vantage.

Available with CommBank EFTPOS. Business tips are prepared by CommBank. To find out more about your customer and business performance data and insights, visit commbank.com.au/DailyIQ Daily IQ has been prepared as a tool for general information purpose only and should not be relied upon as advice. Available to CommBiz and NetBank customers with a CommBank EFTPOS terminal settling into a CommBank settlement account. Commonwealth Bank of Australia ABN 48 123 123 124 AFSL 234945.

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |13

PRO17615_CBBUS_Tech Q3_PRESS_HP_135x185_v03ih.indd 1

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- HOW PERSONALISATION IS FAST-TRACKING BEAUTY PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT AND SALES

by Elisabeth King Personalisation in the modern cosmetics industry is nothing new.

The concept has been around since the 1950s and 60s through on-counter tools like the Elizabeth Arden foundation shade finder and Clinique’s iconic “computer” linked to its famous 3-step product system. But the buzz has accelerated over the past few years, fuelled by more sophisticated diagnostic tools, new technologies, apps and data mining. Companies of all sizes from startups to the biggest beauty players in the world have been offering some sort of personalisation from semi-bespoke serums to detailed questionnaires to assist in product selection.

The words customisation and personalisation are often used interchangeably, but there is a distinct difference. Personalisation relies on technology and customer data and is easier to achieve than customisation, where brands have to make clear changes to achieve a truly individual product, which is more of a prestige or luxury concept. Personalisation is a fast-track to powering products, not an endgame, by offering consumers a better experience and helping them to choose the products most suitable for them.

TREND REPORT

Best Practice TAILORMADE FOR SKINCARE / DATA GATHERING

Although it is also a trend in haircare, fragrance and makeup, skincare is the epicentre of personalisation. The Covid-19 pandemic has cemented this key position. For many brands, the benefits of personalised skincare centre on product recommendations based on personal data from skin type through age and ingredients, building customer loyalty and collecting consumer data for marketing and product development purposes.

Dedicated brand websites have also turbo-charged the personalisation trend through online information gathering. Olay’s Skin Advisor, which debuted in 2017, and Clinique’s online quiz are just two examples of strategies that are helping consumers to make the right product choices while gaining raw data and insights.

L’Oréal-owned Kiehl’s took the old-style approach when it launched its Apothecary Preparations in 2016. Relying on a dermatology-inspired “Skin Atlas”, customers are guided by instore BAs to assess their skincare concerns and build a personalised product around the brand’s Skin Strengthening Concentrate,

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |15

featuring a 35 per cent concentration of squalane, with retinol, proretinol, brightening, pore-minimising and other complexes.

Also under the L’Oréal umbrella, SkinCeuticals recently debuted its Custom D.O.S.E service in Australia. Billed as a state-of-theart offering developed in partnership with L’Oréal’s Technology Incubator, more than 250 unique skin types were researched to provide dozens of solutions to deal with wrinkles, fine lines and discolouration through more than 2000 algorithms. The process begins with a one-on-one consultation with a therapist to discuss concerns and appropriate ingredients. A production quality compounder operating at 1200 rotations per minute blends the recommended ingredients to deliver a single personalised serum to address individual needs. The customer’s name is then put on the label with an expiry date.

Clinique continued its long tradition of personalisation with the launch of Clinique ID in 2019. Customers are invited to pick their preferred hydration base from Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion, Oil Control Gel, Hydrating Gel and BB Gel. The next step is to choose from one of a series of cartridges containing active ingredients that target irritation, pores and uneven texture, uneven skin tone and fatigue and lines and wrinkles. The end product is a serum and moisturiser in one.

INDIE IMPETUS / CONSUMER-DRIVEN

The rise of indie beauty brands has also stimulated the personalisation trend. Large scale cosmetic contract manufacturers have teamed with many indie brands worldwide with the aim of growing their business. Many have reduced their minimum order quantities and re-evaluated target markets to allow small and large brands to take advantage of a larger range of SKUs and more personalised options.

In addition to personalising their product regimens, many brands have added booster products that can be mixed into existing serums and mosturisers. Dermalogica, Paula’s Choice, Clarins and Givenchy are just a few of the names that have followed this route. Even Aldi, the discount supermarket, recently released the Lacura You range of boosters priced at $7.99 - Brightening, Correcting, Firming, Hydrating and Wrinkle Reduction - to be blended with two versions of The Base moisturiser - day and night.

The Covid-19 pandemic has led to another pivot in the personalisation concept, switching the emphasis from expert-led to consumer-driven. Consumers have become used to taking selfies, uploading details and relying on digital software to help personalise their beauty routines. Another strong force in personalisation is de-cluttering skincare routines and a swing to multi-purpose products as illustrated by the Korean-inspired ‘skipcare’ and clean beauty trends.

According to Lia Neophytou, consumer analyst at GlobalData, a minimalistic approach to beauty, skincare and haircare has emerged as a way for consumers to identify only the most essential products for their individual needs and avoid the use of excess products.

“In fact, 81 per cent of global consumers consider living a less complicated lifestyle important in creating a feeling of well-being or wellness. Beauty brands will focus on developing highly personal solutions boasting multiple benefits.”

The future will see consumers expecting more retailers to link offline and online for more personalised experiences and other developments that once belonged in the realm of sci-fi.

16| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

BAS STILL IN DEMAND / THE RISE OF MASS PERSONALISATION

But this simplistic trend co-exists with multi-step skincare. Many consumers still believe that using several products each with a specific function provide more efficacious results compared to using one multi-use product. A trend called ingredient-stacking.

This doesn’t mean that personalisation is DIY all the way, notes The Benchmarking Company (TBC), one of the world’s leading beauty and personal care research companies. According to one of its recent US surveys, 61 per cent of respondents revealed the DIY approach to skincare was “OK but not great”. A huge 77 per cent said they remain interested in buying a skincare product from their favourite brands through in-store or online recommendations, which takes the hassle and experimentation out of guessing at home. When shopping at bricks-and-mortar stores, 43 per cent revealed they asked for recommendations from BAs and assistants and over 52 per cent have completed an online skincare questionnaire.

Price remains a key consideration in personalisation, according to the TBC survey. More than 67 per cent of respondents were interested in creating products and regimens that meet their budgets. In addition to Aldi, other mass brand makers are dipping their toes in the personalisation brand, notably Beiersdorf, the owner of Nivea.

The German multinational also owns La Prairie and Eucerin and is launching a direct-to-consumer, vegan brand called O.W.N, an acronym for Only What’s Needed, starting with selected countries in Europe later this year. Built around an algorithm assessing more than 300,000 formula combinations, consumers also fill out a

TREND REPORT

Pond’s, the Unilever-owned heritage brand, has recently launched its Skin Advisor service with Shopee, the leading e-commerce online shopping platform in Southeast Asia, in four major markets - Indonesia, the Philippines, Thailand and Vietnam - as part of its Smarter Skincare for You campaign.

The future will see consumers expecting more retailers to link offline and online for more personalised experiences and other developments that once belonged in the realm of sci-fi. In March, German brand trinamiX, a global leader in infrared sensing technologies, partnered with US-based Viavi Solutions, a pioneer in light management solutions, to bring infrared (NIR) spectroscopy to smartphones.

New generation smartphones will enable consumers to quickly and easily scan their skin on a molecular level to receive instantaneous suggestions on optimal skincare products for immediate use. It should get a good reception. Switching back to the TBC survey, only one per cent of women said they have no interest in buying personalised beauty products.

questionnaire to obtain a personalised skincare routine centred on facial cleansing plus day and night care. Labels are personalised as well with the customer’s name.

THE IMPACT OF NEW TECHNOLOGIES

Technologies such as AI, AR and data analysis are also turbocharging the personalisation trend. A good recent example is L’Oréal Perso, an AI powered device that helps to create personalised skincare, foundation and lip colour on demand. At the 2021 Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas, the world’s largest consumer electronics event, L’Oréal debuted its personalised lipstick range - YSL Beauty Rouge Sur Mesure - which allows consumers to create their favourite lipstick shade.

Estee Lauder and Procter & Gamble are other major players using AI to personalise products from leading brands such as M.A.C, Clinique, L’Oréal Paris and Neutrogena. Rimmel London’s Get the Look 3D simulation app allows consumers to take a selfie of a makeup look and try it on themselves. Also in the race are Lancôme’s Teint Particulier which personalises foundation shades, Sephora’s Virtual Artist and the Opte Wand from P&G. In the UK, Boots have recently teamed with Chicago-based beauty tech firm Revieve to promote its iconic No7 skincare range. The pharmacy chain’s customers can access a digital beauty adviser and a selfdiagnostic platform to build a tailored skincare routine.

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |17

Uplift Advantage PAUL ZAHRA TALKS ARA RE-BRAND, POWERFUL PARTNERSHIPS AND NEW ERA FOR PROFESSIONAL HAIR AND BEAUTY

by Elisabeth King Paul Zahra’s energy, enthusiasm and expertise are renowned throughout the retail industry. The former CEO and Managing Director of David Jones began his career on the shop floor of Target more than 25 years ago and his achievements span advisory roles to some of the world’s and Australia’s leading retailers, a strong commitment to diversity and inclusion and senior leadership roles and board memberships. He took on the role of CEO of the Australian Retailers Association (ARA) in April last year and began a strategic re-brand to give the 118 year old organisation a more contemporary and relevant edge in the fast-changing retail landscape.

They wanted someone with a high profile and it was a great opportunity to make a real difference, says Zahra. “The ARA is Australia’s largest retail association, representing a $350 billion sector which employs 1.2 million Australians - one in 10 workers. We are a not-for-profit organisation, so every dollar is re-invested in initiatives to support our membership. Our thousandsstrong network includes SMBs and major retailers such as David Jones and Myer and has grown strongly since the re-branding.”

STRATEGIC PARTNERS THE WAY FORWARD/ GLOBAL BENCHMARKING

One of my first tasks was to change the narrative and perception in the media, he says. “The ARA’s remit extends far beyond penalty rates to industrial relations, media advisory and we are also a registered training organisation. We entered an exclusive partnership with Fabric/TBWA, 18| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

the specialist fashion and lifestyle creative agency, last December. The two-year agreement will focus on developing a new brand identity and design system for the ARA, the joint development of creative campaigns to promote Australian retail and leadership and creative insight forums to help retailers grow their brand positioning and strengthen their marketing efforts. The Covid-19 pandemic has accelerated a decade’s worth of change

and innovation and the ARA must assume a leadership role.”

The ARA has also created an ecosystem of other powerful strategic partners, including American Express and Deloitte.

Late last year, the association inked a partnership with Afterpay, Australia’s leading buy-now-pay-later company.

Major benefits include unique and tailored research insights, the amplification of retail as a core connector with generations, with

ARA HAIR AND BEAUTY - PEAK INDUSTRY BODY

Other trends springboarded by the Covid-19 pandemic are here to stay, says Zahra. “I believe the emphasis on increased hygiene and contactless shopping will be permanent. As far as beauty retail is concerned, single use testers are on track to become the new normal. AI and AR are also very much to the fore in beauty and are invaluable tools in face-to-face selling.”

Zahra started his career in the men’s department of Target before moving into health and beauty. From 1999 to

2003, he was the General Manager Merchandise, Cosmetics for David Jones and was instrumental in negotiating and launching several luxury brands exclusive to the department store, including Giorgio Armani Beauty, Jo Malone, Sisley and Ella Baché. I love the beauty industry, he reveals.

“There’s nothing like the transformative power of a lipstick and how dreams can come true with a simple purchase.”

The Hair & Beauty Industry Association (HBIA) merged with the ARA in February and Zahra plans to grow the 93 year old organisation as the re-badged ARA Hair and Beauty, the peak industry body for hairdressing, beauty and barbering. “The HBIA was best known for the Australian Hairdressing Championships and the Student and Education Awards to support upcoming industry talent,” says Zahra.

“They were paused by Covid-19 but are very much back on the agenda for 2022.”

Zahra’s zeal for the sector is much needed.

There was a decrease in employment levels for hairdressers from 77,700 in 2019 to 60,500 in 2020. Hairdressers make up 58 per cent of the related hairdressing and beauty services industry workforce with beauty therapists accounting for 25 per cent. Employment levels for hairdressers are predicted to recover by 2024, with projections of an increase to 79,600, says Zahra. “After a significant increase in employment levels for beauty therapists in 2018 and 2019, numbers declined from 41,800 in 2019 to 20,600 in 2020. Strong growth for beauty therapists is expected, however, with employment levels projected to rise 20 per cent to 50,700 by 2024.”

STRONG INDUSTRY ADVOCACY/ WORKING CLOSELY WITH GOVERNMENT AND BUSINESS

There’s a lot of work to do, says Zahra.

“Currently there is an industry shortage

INTERVIEW

a focus on the growing importance of Millennials and Gen Z, and training and mentoring programs on financial literacy and digital transformation for SMBs. “As a leader in retail payments and also one of Australia’s most innovative retail brands, Afterpay offers powerful insights, global benchmarking capabilities and important resources that will help us equip our retailers for the transformative years ahead,” notes Zahra.

We have also strengthened our membership offerings with a partnership with well-known legal firm, Hitch Advisory, he says. “The partnership ensures that the ARA has access to best-in-class legal advice, notably in areas such as mergers and acquisitions, leasing, consumer law and general commercial law. As part of the agreement, Hitch Advisory will offer ARA members a free initial consultation, as well as additional materials education and support.”

In March, Salesforce, the global leader in Customer Relationship Management (CRM), also teamed with the ARA to unlock new trends in technology and innovation to spur on-going growth in the retail industry. There has been a massive shift in consumer behaviour over the past year and we have also partnered with the Queensland University of Technology (QUT) to give membership a deep understanding of tech developments and innovation in retail, notes Zahra.

“QUT Professor Gary Mortimer has been appointed Chair of the ARA’s new Consumer Research Advisory Committee.”

Mastercard, a leader in global payments, also became a strategic ARA partner in mid-March. ARA members will have access to Mastercards SpendingPulse data, which examines retail spending habits in Australia across a wide range of categories. “In the post-Covid world, Mastercard will provide unique perspectives in terms of payment trends, new technologies and the shift to digital and cyber security to future-proof the retail industry,” he says.

across Australia for qualified and quality hairdressers and beauty therapists. Low apprentice completion rates in the industry are a growing concern. Young people are not seeing the creative industries as a lucrative career pathway. One that supports them if they want to travel, live overseas or open their own business. We need a more supportive transition from school leavers to commencing an apprenticeship.”

The barbering industry also has shortages of qualified and skilled barbers.

But the good news is that all salons are growing, and since Covid-19 clients have realised the value of going to a hairdresser/ barber for their well-being and to look great, says Zahra.

ARA Hair and Beauty is committed to strong advocacy initiatives, he notes. “We have been advocating to get our industry upskilled and qualified and to make the creative/personal services sector a more accessible pathway for students when leaving schools. Government need to uplift the profile of creative industries as a career full of opportunity and review the VET (Vocational Education and Training) sector to meet the needs of creative students. When government talk about supporting tradies, this has a significant gender bias and hairdressing and beauty therapy need to be included as a career to break through gender biases and provide gender equity government policy.”

With such a busy first year under his belt, Zahra’s goals don’t stop there. “Covid-19 showed that retail is such an integral and important part of the community. The ARA is at the forefront of encouraging people to return to state capital CBDs and is working closely with government and businesses. We’ve also got to create the right environment for tourists and international students to return.”

FAST FACTS – PAUL ZAHRA •Z ahra’s first experience of department stores was as Store Manager of the iconic Georges in Melbourne, then owned by David Jones.

• In 1996, he came Business Manager - Merchandise Services at Officeworks.

•F rom 1998 to 2014, he rose from General Manager - Merchandise Services to CEO and Managing Director of David Jones.

•F rom 2015 to 2020, he was a Global Retail Advisor to leading companies and brands.

• I n April 2020, he was appointed to the position of CEO of the Australian Retailers Association.

• He is also renowned for his work in promoting diversity and inclusion and was the Chair of the PwC Diversity and Inclusion Advisory Board from 2016 to 2019. He was also a judge in The Australian Financial Review 100 Women of Influence Awards 2018 and The Australian LGBTI Awards 2018/19.

For further information on the ARA - go to www.retail.org.au

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |19

INDUSTRY NEWS

Rebel Wilson pitch perfect ambassador for Olly Vitamins Rebel Wilson, the Australian star of Bridesmaids, Pitch Perfect and Jojo Rabbit, garnered global headlines in 2020 as she embarked on a year of health. Over the past 12 months, the 40-year-old actress has lost 32 kilos and her now svelte figure is the centre of attention in the new ad campaign for Olly, the US vitamins and supplements brand. Wilson has been appointed the 2021 celebrity ambassador for Olly and has long been a fan of such core products as – The Perfect Women’s Multi, Goodbye Stress, Active Immunity Berry Brave and Restful Sleep. Unilever acquired Olly in April 2019.

The San Francisco-based company with its functional foods, gummy supplements and beauty-from-within products slotted into two of the multinational’s major divisions – beauty and personal care and foods and refreshments. Founded in 2014 by entrepreneur Eric Ryan, Olly products are now stocked in 25,000 locations in the US, including major retailers such as Target and the CVS drugstore chain. Available online in Australia, the brand also launched in selected Asian markets in the first half of 2020, including Singapore. Unilever has tackled the supplements market before with varying degrees of success. In 2000, the personal care giant bought SlimFast, the meal replacement brand and on-sold it to the venture capital firm, Kainos Capital, in 2014. In Europe, it launched the Dextro Energy brand, a range of drinks and bars. Olly is a different kettle of fish, though, and is a proven performer in the fast-growing health and well-being space, which has been accelerated by the Covid-19 pandemic. Unlike other new entrants in the well-established vitamins and supplements category, the company is firmly focused on bricks-and-mortar rather than online sales.

The Olly, Set, Go campaign with Rebel Wilson is aimed at Millennial consumers and can be accessed across TV, online video, digital and audio.

20| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

Endota Spa extends presence in China Founded in 2000 by CEO Melanie Gleeson, Endota Spa is the largest day spa network in Australia with 100 locations. A leader in naturally-based and organic skincare products and wellness, Endota Spa’s skincare ranges include the anti-ageing New Age lineup, Organics, which is COSMOS-certified, and Organics Nurture, a dedicated offering for mothers and babies. The company took aim at the Chinese market in 2018 by setting up an account on WeChat, the world’s largest standalone mobile app with one billion users. Endota also reached out to Chinese consumers through Weibo, one of the biggest social media platforms in China with 445 million users, and Xiaohongshu ( Little Red Book), the social media and e-commerce platform with more than 300 million users – 70 per cent of whom are aged under 30. With increasing interest in self-care, clean beauty and naturally-based skincare among Chinese consumers, Endota Spa is launching a flagship store on Alibaba’s Tmall Global. The China Skinny Skincare Tracker reveals that eco-friendly packaging and products rank highly in major Chinese cities, including Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, Hangzhou and Chongqing.

The Chinese beauty market has bounced back strongly since the first half of 2020. China became France’s largest beauty export market for the first time last year, gaining more than 20.7 per cent over the past 12 months. According to Euromonitor International, the skincare category in China is predicted to grow 9.8 per cent CAGR by 2024.

Two-thirds of Australians believe life will be back to normal within a year

Aussies are internationally renowned for their grit and can-do attitude. According to the latest consumer sentiment survey from Kantar Australia, the world’s leading data, insights and consulting company, Australians are much more positive about the future than they were at the beginning of the Covid-19 pandemic.

Concern about the health crisis has dropped from 64 percent a year ago to 47 per cent and 40 per cent of respondents said they have not been impacted at all.

While only 33 per cent felt that Covid-19 concerns are still impacting their daily life.

Australians are more confident about their finances, in spite of the end of government stimulus programs, notes Kantar. Over onethird (36%) feel more certain that Covid-19 will have no effect on their household income. Nearly half of respondents - 49 per cent - believe that the economy is on track to recovery and that job prospects

will not suffer in the long term. As far as the retail industry is concerned, 50 per cent of respondents revealed they would be more focused on sales and 64 per cent are paying more attention to price than they did before the pandemic. Discounts and promotions are very important to 45 per cent of respondents. Australian-made is a strong motivation with more than 60 per cent saying they now pay more attention to product origin and close to 77 per cent revealed they prefer to shop close to home.

The beauty industry has strongly stepped up to the plate, especially over the past few years, to safeguard supply chains, reduce the amount of plastic packaging, increase sustainabilty efforts and expand giving back programs.

According to Kantar, Australians are looking to brands to make significant changes in these areas.

• Over 50 per cent of survey respondents say it is important to them that brands have plans to protect supply chains.

• A significant 30 per cent give preference to brands detailing how they are helping communities and addressing social needs.

• Sustainable and durable products are qualities favoured by 40 per cent of respondents.

• Over one third - 37 per cent - are looking to brands to reduce their use of plastic in products and packaging.

INDUSTRY NEWS

Kris Jenner to debut namesake beauty brand

Back in October when she announced that Keeping Up with the Kardashians, the longest-running reality TV show, was ringing down the curtain, Kris Jenner acted coy about speculation that she was working on her own skincare launch.

US fashion bible WWD recently quoted an insider with links to the family as saying – “It’s a great idea if you want to sell very expensive products for mature skin, who would be better?” The 65-year-old momager of the Kardashian clan has warmed to the project and filed several trademarks, including “Kris Jenner Skincare”, “Kris Jenner Beauty” and “Kris Jenner Skin”. TMZ, the online tabloid newspaper, also reports that Jenner has her eye on fragrances and nail products, too.

There’s no one better to launch a new brand, either. The Kardashian matriarch is widely credited with being the brains and driving force behind the collaborations and brands of her daughters – Kim, Kylie, Kendall, Khloe and Kourtney. Jenner helped to broker US$800 million deals with Coty for shares in Kylie and Kim’s brands and the multinational officially made her the CEO of Kylie Cosmetics. The Kardashian/Jenner portfolio now extends to eight brands – KKW Beauty, KKW Fragrance and Skims Shapewear from Kim Kardashian-West; Kylie Cosmetics, Kylie Skin and Kendall + Kylie from Kylie and Kendall; Good American, a clothing line from Khloe and Poosh, a lifestyle e-commerce website, from Kourtney. Jenner took her first step into the beauty business with a collaboration with Kylie in 2018.

Called the Kris Collection, it featured a range of lip products. There’s no guessing how the new Kris Jenner brands will be promoted.

Social media has been the major springboard behind all of the brands and businesses of her daughters and the momager is bound to follow suit as the fastest way to get her message across.

22| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

Private equity company buys Conair Conair, the leading US developer and marketer of personal care electrical appliances, has inked a deal with American Securities, the US private equity firm with US$23 billion in assets under management. Founded in 1959, Conair’s leading brands include the Conair stable of cosmetic mirrors and massagers, VS Sassoon hair appliances for women, VS Sassoon for men grooming, Scunci hair accessories and BaByliss Paris hair removal products. The Conair Australia subsidiary was established in 1995 and is one of the leaders in the small electrical hair care industry in Australia and New Zealand. Australian stockists of Conair brands include Myer, David Jones, Harvey Norman, Shaver Shop, The Good Guys and Bing Lee. Some members of the Rizzuto family, the founders of Conair, will retain a minority shareholding in the company. Ron Diamond, the current president of Conair, will also take up the position of CEO. “The partnership with American Securities will allow us to continue our evolution with a focus on new product development and an acceleration of our M&A activities while continuing to bring efficiencies to our operations,” he adds. Helen Chiang, a Managing Director of American Securities noted: “The company’s scale, best-in-class product offering, supply chain capabilities, and strong management team creates a sustainable competitive advantage and makes Conair a strong fit for our investment strategy.”

Gillette launches sustainable shaving brand Billions of disposable razors and razor cartridges are thrown out around the world every year. The plastics, metal alloy blades and more are very difficult to re-cycle. Gillette, the global leader in the shaving category, has teamed with TerraCycle, the global waste management company, in Australia and other countries.

But the responsibility is very much on consumers to do the right thing. Both sexes are advised to collect a few months worth of razors and blades in a sturdy box, download a shipping label from TerraCycle and send the box for free through Australia Post. TerraCycle then separates all the component materials and re-purposes them. Procter & Gamble (P&G), the parent company of Gillette, has gone one step further to reaching its goal to make Gillette’s packaging 100 per cent re-cyclable by 2030 with the launch of the Planet Kind shaving and skincare range. To roll out initially in the US through Target stores and a dedicated website – planetkindbygillette.com – the new lineup is a collaboration with Plastic Bank, a Canada-based social enterprise that enables commercial strategies to be implemented for profit for social and environmental outcomes. Plastic Bank employs people in highly populated, developing countries such as Indonesia,

Brazil, the Philippines and Egypt to collect plastic in exchange for goods and services such as internet access and school tuition.

For every Planet Kind product purchased, Gillette will make a contribution to keep 10 plastic bottles out of the ocean, with the goal of keeping 10 million bottles out of the world’s seas over the course of each year. The handle of the brand’s razor is made of 60 per cent recycled plastic. The shave cream jar from infinitely recyclable aluminium and the moisturiser and face wash bottles from 85 per cent recycled plastic. Prices range from US$7.99 to US$9.99 and the facial care products are free from parabens, alcohol, SLS sulfate and dyes. Planet Kind makes it easier to incorporate eco-friendly choices into a shaving and skincare routine, said John Claughton, VP of North America Grooming for P&G. “We know consumers are looking for sustainable products that are kind to skin and don’t want to compromise on performance. Our Planet Kind products are designed with this in mind and are backed by a brand people already know and trust.”

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INDUSTRY NEWS

Beauty and personal care brands win big at Shop! ANZ 2020 Retail Awards

Revlon Australia was the pick of the crop at the Shop! ANZ 2020 Retail Awards, celebrating ingenuity in the Australian and New Zealand retail marketing sector.

Competing with major brand names across industries such as Swarovski and Johnnie Walker, Revlon won the top award of the event – the Tom Harris Retail Marketing Best in Show Award – for its POP This for Revlon Australia campaign, featuring the Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick Carousel and Virtual Mirror – a 2-in-1 display incorporating digital lip colour testing. The Revlon Super Lustrous promotion also took out major honours in other hotly contested categories, including Best Design and Innovation, Health & Beauty, Permanent Display and Digital Instore, Mobile, Social and Online. Other gold and silver award winners in beauty and personal care were: Myer Giftorium, Gillette Skinguard Mega Displays, the Oral-B Anti-Sweep Push Permanent Unit, Nude by Nature Little Wonders and Satin Liquid Lips, Australis Big W Cosmetics and the Priceline Feminine Shave Care Category Solution. Carla Bridge, General Manager Shop! ANZ, applauded the standard and quality of this year’s awards. “Australia and New Zealand retail marketers appear to have used the challenges of the past 12 months as fuel to work harder and smarter, producing the best work we’ve seen for years. This year’s winners combined ingenuity, design flair and solid insights to win the hearts, minds and wallets of shoppers in what has arguably been the toughest environment in living memory.”

Jurlique owner takes aim at Chinese travel retail The global travel retail sector has nose-dived during the coronavirus crisis. But Hainan Island, the so-called Hawaii of China, has enjoyed booming sales because of the enormous upsurge in Chinese domestic tourism. Pola Orbis, the Japanese parent company of Jurlique and H2O+ Skincare and maker of its own high-end skincare and makeup ranges, has announced it will leverage further growth in China through travel retail. With the Hainan Offshore Duty-Free Policy, our group expects significant growth from the travel retail business on Hainan Island in the future, says Yoshikazu Yokote, director and CEO, Pola Orbis Travel Retail. “We think it is a great opportunity for us to expand our business aggressively and open new stores on Hainan Island, taking advantage of our growing brand presence in China.” The flagship prestige brand POLA is leading the charge. But Jurlique is also strengthening its position in China and has already acheived significant growth in Hainan Island, so we have high expectations for the future, adds Yokote. “Brands such as Three and Itrim are also growing in popularity despite being available only through cross-border e-commerce, so we have ample opportunities.” Pola Orbis also has its eye on the re-opening of international travel around the world, where Chinese tourists are the number one market. Once flights to leading destinations resume, Chinese tourists will support the expansion of the global travel retail cosmetics market, especially in Asia, notes Yokote.

Beiersdorf looks to future with personalisation Like people, companies win some and lose some. Beiersdorf, the maker of Nivea, Eucerin and La Prairie, suffered an 8.2 per cent drop in global sales for the full year 2020 to 7.3 billion euros (AUD$11.22 billion).

On the plus side, the German multinational enjoyed double-digit sales growth in North America, Latin America and Asia. La Prairie was the hardest hit as the Covid-19 pandemic hammered the travel retail sector. The luxury skincare brand’s sales slumped 23.9 per cent during 2020. But its recent launch on Alibaba’s Tmall has strengthened the brand’s presence in China and Beiersdorf expects the downward trajectory to level off this year.

Nivea’s revenues dipped 6 per cent over the period. Yet the brand’s strong overall position globally and gaining market share 24| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

in more than 50 per cent of the countries it operates in softened the pandemic impact. Looking forward, Beiersdorf will invest 60 million euros (AUD$92.28 million) in a technology centre near its Hamburg HQ over the next three years. Key projects will include the use of more natural ingredients, developing formulas to target the skin’s microbiome, sustainable packaging and materials and research on new actives. Beiersdorf also recently announced the launch of O.W.N, a personalised skincare brand focused on cleansing, day and night skincare. An acronym of Only When Needed, the brand will roll out first in Europe later this year. Consumers will be offered a scientifically-evaluated questionnaire and AI built around a proprietary algorithm selects the best ingredients for individual needs from 380,000 formula combinations.

Beautycounter, the US clean beauty brand, debuted in 2013 with a mission to lead the way in ingredient innovation and transparency. The company’s renowned The Never List was compiled to call out more than 1800 questionable or potentially harmful ingredients as part of its Blueprint for Clean Strategy. Clean beauty products enjoyed an 11 per cent uplift in sales worldwide over the past year, by contrast to a 1.4 per cent decline in the general cosmetic market, reports the NPD Group. The Carlyle Group, the world’s second largest private equity firm with US$246 billion in assets, has acquired a majority stake in Beautycounter. The terms of the deal were not disclosed, but Beautycounter was valued at US$1 billion. Beautycounter is mainly a direct-to-consumer brand with 65,000 direct salespeople and is also available online and through its own bricks-and-mortar boutiques. Last year, its products entered Sephora as part of the beauty chain’s clean beauty initiative. CNBC, the global leader in business media and financial market coverage, also named Beautycounter in its 2020 Disruptor 50 list. The company increased sales to US$500 million last year. Founder and CEO, Gregg Renfrew, says the Carlyle investment will help to raise the awareness and scale of the brand. Jay Sammons, Head of Global Consumer, Media and Retail for The Carlyle Group, says the private equity giant views Beautycounter as a pioneer in the clean beauty industry. “We see an opportunity to support a talented, founder-led team in amplifying the brand’s mission to change beauty forever.”

Makeup legend Rae Morris seeks US$10m in series A funding The words legend, industry icon and world-class are scattered around like confetti these days. But when it comes to Rae Morris, the best-selling author and one of the most influential makeup artists in the world, all the labels fit the bill. Her CV says it all. Morris has clinched the title of Australian Makeup Artist of the Year four times and was the longest-serving Makeup Director for L’Oreal Paris for 10 years from 2003 to 2013.

She has written six best-selling books, including Makeup: The Ultimate Guide, which sold half a million copies worldwide. Morris has also worked with some of the world’s leading photographers and prestige glossies, including Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

As true beauty fans know, the Rae Morris Magnetic Brush range, the first magnetic makeup brush range in the world, are the ultimate beauty tools for a perfect finish. A year ago, Morris partnered with Lempriere Wells, the boutique capital advisory and investment firm, specialising in high-growth skincare, fashion and wellness brands, to expand her business reach. Founded in 2012, the Rae Morris brand generates the majority of its sales in the US, followed by Australia, Asia and the UK. The company recently received a minority stake investment from a Singapore-based funds management firm. A deal which valued the business at seven times its revenues. Rae Morris products are sold through Mecca in Australia and Beautylish and Net-A-Porter in the US and the recent investment is just a taste of things to come. Aided by Lempriere Wells, the brand is hoping to raise up to US$10 million in Series A funding later this year. The capital injection will be used to launch a full colour makeup range, increase distribution and grow the education side of the business. A beauty studio in Sydney is also on the drawing board. The company has already received interest from undisclosed partners, adds Jim Cornish, managing director and co-founder of Rae Morris.”

INDUSTRY NEWS

Private equity firm acquires majority stake in Beautycounter

L’Oréal to launch Valentino makeup line There used to be a saying in beauty retail that designer cosmetics caused 80 per cent of the headaches and earned only 20 per cent of the profits. For years, only Chanel, Dior and Yves Saint Laurent really bucked the trend. The rise of the Chinese beauty market has upended the old order, especially where lipsticks are concerned. When Gucci launched its makeup range in 2019, the luxury brand sold one million tubes in the first month of launch. Giorgio Armani has also enjoyed strong sales in lipsticks and foundation. L’Oréal took over the license for Valentino from Puig in January 2019. The Spanish multinational had exclusively made fragrances for the fashion house. The move to L’Oréal placed cosmetics firmly in the spotlight from the get-go and the license was re-branded as Valentino Beauty. L’Oréal debuted its first Valentino fragrances - Born in Roma for men and women - in late 2019. Voce Viva, a new juice fronted by Lady Gaga, was released in the run-up to Christmas 2020. Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director of Valentino, was appointed in 2016 and has electrified the 61-year-old couture house from its fashions to its fragrances and now cosmetics. Unlike other luxury brands, including Hermes, Valentino will launch an extensive range of 40 foundation shades, 50 lipstick colours and eye products. A monthlong pop-up boutique will open in Selfridges in London on May 31st and Valentino cosmetics will be available to pre-order in the US from June 1st.

The global rollout will begin in August, including a major launch on Alibaba’s Tmall platform. According to Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino makeup is “open to all genders, ages and cultures”.

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |25

INDUSTRY NEWS

Access Corporate Group looks to global expansion

Livia Wang, dubbed the retail or daigou queen, founded the Access Corporate Group in 2017. An Auckland outpost opened last year and the rapidly-expanding company also has offices in Sydney, Melbourne and Hangzhou in China. Wang received maximum publicity in 2019, when she and business partner, Henry Lee, acquired the storied Napoleon Perdis makeup brand through Kuba Investments.

Access has built a formidable reputation as a company that develops, incubates and brings premium brands to market and expands them to international markets, notably China.

Today, the company services more than 10 million customers worldwide. A few months ago, Access launched the VTN app, an acronym derived from the Latin words – Veritas, Tempus, Naturae ( truth, time, nature). The company has followed up with an e-commerce website – www.vtnstore. com – in Australia and New Zealand. More than 100 SKUs from 11 premium beauty, wellness and lifestyle brands are available, including Napoleon Perdis, Vida Glow, Minenssey, Invisible Zinc, Lovekins, Bean Body, Bee+, Capilano Beeotic, eimele and Amilera. During Alibaba’s 2020 Singles’ Day shopping festival, Access sold a total GMV of AUD$210 million through the VTN app alone. The ANZ launch of the VTN website is part of a global expansion program and dedicated websites in the US and Europe are set to debut in the near future. We are so thrilled to launch VTN’s website in the ANZ region, said Livia Wang, Chief Brand Officer of Access Corporate Group. “With a physical Sydney CBD store to come, we will continue to strengthen VTN’s presence both online and offline. In 2021, expansion to the North America and Europe markets is set to capture a wider audience globally, while also adding to an already impressive catalogue of brands to our ever-growing portfolio.”

Estée Lauder targets mass market again with US$1 billion Deciem deal Estée Lauder first dipped its toe in the mass market in 1997 when it acquired Jane Cosmetics, the original dedicated teen colour brand in the US. At the time, Lauder had high hopes of gaining a foothold in the multi-billion dollar mass makeup market and using Jane Cosmetics as a pathway into China and India.

During Lauder’s seven year ownership, Jane Cosmetics reached annual sales of US$50 million and was available in thousands of Walmart and Target stores in the US. But under-investment and a flood of competitors saw sales dive 50 per cent and the brand was on-sold in 2004. Estée Lauder is having another tilt at the mass market through a US$1 billion deal to acquire a majority stake in Deciem, the Canadian functional skincare player founded in 2013, whose portfolio of seven brands includes The Ordinary, NIOD and The Chemistry Brand. The multinational bought a 29 per cent stake in Deciem in 2017 and will increase its holding to 76 per cent during the first stage of the acquisition to be finalised at the end of June. The lofty price tag – Lauder’s highest-ever outlay – is based on Deciem’s total enterprise value of US$2.2 billion. Over the next three years, Lauder will acquire full ownership for a sum yet to be announced. Deciem’s hero brand, The Ordinary, is available through Myer, Priceline, 26| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

Adore Beauty, RY.com.au and other leading retailers in Australia and e-commerce, select speciality and freestanding stores in the US, the UK and Canada. Deciem’s global sales reached US$460 million in the 12 months to the end of January this year. What’s different from the Jane Cosmetics venture is that price sensitivity has moved to the fore during the Covid-19 pandemic, e-commerce and direct-to-consumer sales have boomed and The Ordinary, in particular, has been a key player in promoting ingredient transparency and education.

Skincare has also become more important for The Estée Lauder Companies, accounting for 58 per cent of overall sales in Q4 as makeup sales slumped. We have built a truly special long-term partnership with Deciem over the past four years, notes Fabrizio Freda, president and CEO of The Estée Lauder Companies.

“Deciem is an exceptional company with its vertically-integrated model and portfolio of authentic brands with highly-effective musthave products and a uniquely transparent and engaging communication style.”

Shiseido confirms theory that radiant skin is more attractive

Boosting radiance is one of the most sought-after benefits in skincare.

Most people already know that bright, unblemished skin is key to making a good first impression, but it’s always satisfying when science proves a generations-old belief. Shiseido teamed with the National Institute of Information and Communications Technology (NICT) in Japan to prove that radiance is the Holy Grail of complexion perfection. Defining radiance as “a face with gloss both of specular reflection and diffuse reflection”, the study found that a radiant complexion is more attractive than a matte or oily one.

Female participants aged from 30 to the late 40s were shown a photo of one woman and asked to rate their impressions according to 10 evaluation criteria, including attractiveness, likeability, healthiness and tiredness. The study also confirmed that radiant skin creates a younger look by an average of three years. Interestingly, a mattified complexion was rated below oily skin, so it’s best to steer clear of toopowdery a look. Shiseido will use the study results to develop skincare and makeup that helps to create more radiant skin in its quest to provide consumers with products that “have a high emotional value”. Why the study now? Because more people worldwide are worried that their skin doesn’t look in peak condition in selfies and on Zoom linkups.

INDUSTRY NEWS

Estée Lauder closes Rodin Olio Lusso brand

The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) had a mini-spending spree in 2014, acquiring niche fragrance player Le Labo and luxury skincare brand Rodin Olio Lusso in quick succession. The multinational entered the mass market in March with its US$1 billion majority stake in Deciem, the parent company of cult bestseller The Ordinary. But some of the smaller brands in its prestige portfolio are being viewed as surplus to requirements as the prestige beauty market has plummeted in double digits in key countries such as the US, the UK, Canada, France and Germany. Lauder announced the closure of Becca, the Australianfounded makeup brand, last year.

Now it’s the turn of Rodin Olio Lusso, which closed its e-commerce business on April 19th. Founded by US model and stylist, Linda Rodin, the brand was noted for its Luxury Face Oil, mainly sold in Australia through Mecca. The 17 year old company also offered makeup and fragrance and it’s not quite the end of the road. In October, Rodin will release a capsule collection under the Jo Malone label and some of its product formulations may be taken up by the best-selling fragrance brand. At the time of the Rodin Olio Lusso buyout, Lauder had high hopes of its potential as a high-growth global skincare brand.

Linda Rodin continued to oversee the brand’s manufacturing for the first few years but left in 2018.

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Biossance parent company buys Costa Brazil Amyris, the parent company of Biossance, the plant-based squalane cult skincare brand, unveiled a new initiative late last year dubbed the Clean Beauty Collaborative. The first brand to release products under the banner was the Pipette baby and mother care range – a first for Amyris – through Rose Inc, the brand and website of supermodel Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. Rose Inc is also poised to develop and launch another clean beauty range with Amyris in the third quarter of this year. Amyris has been a trendsetter in the sustainable beauty arena, working with the Institute for OneWorld Health, the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation and Sanofi, the fifth largest pharmaceutical company in the world, to develop naturally-based ingredients and molecules. The biotech leader has inked a buyout deal with Costa Brazil, a New York-based clean luxury beauty and wellness brand, that takes its cue from the biodiversity of the Amazon rainforest. Co-founded by Brazilian native, Francisco Costa, and Michele Levy, all of Costa Brazil’s ingredients are sustainably sourced. Amyris plans to apply its scientific knowhow and fermentation technology to develop and expand the production of Costa Brazil’s portfolio, including signature products such as Oleo Para a Face ( Kaya Anti-Ageing Face Oil), available through Mecca and Net-a-Porter in Australia. Francisco Costa will remain Chief Creative Officer and Amyris will continue to aid the local communities who live in the areas where the brand’s ingredients are sourced. John Melo, President and CEO of Amyris says: “We are very excited to be adding to our portfolio a truly differentiated offering. We welcome Francisco, whose successful track record at Calvin Klein and launch of Costa Brazil, together with our own creative talents, will help us accelerate the transition of the beauty industry to a sciencebased business that delivers sustainability without compromise to performance.”

C-Beauty’s Yatsen buys majority stake in cult Eve Lom brand Last November, Yatsen, the Chinese parent company of the Little Ondine and Perfect Diary brands, pulled off two major coups. The fouryear-old business raised a very bullish US$617 million through an IPO (initial public offering) on the New York Stock Exchange. A success that came hard on the heels of the acquisition of Galenic, the luxury skincare brand from Pierre Fabre, the maker of Eau Thermale Avène skincare and Klorane haircare. With a current market capitalisation of US$11 billion, Yatsen’s Perfect Diary was the top-selling Chinese beauty brand during Alibaba’s 2020 Singles’ Day shopping festival. In the calendar year 2020, the group serviced 23.5 million direct-to consumer customers. Shortly after the New York IPO, Yatsen announced that some of the funds raised would be used to make strategic acquisitions. The company has wasted little time implementing its intentions and has acquired a majority stake in Eve Lom, the British cult prestige skincare brand. Eve Lom hit the radar of global beauty lovers in 1985 with its world-beating, first-tomarket balm cleanser. Stocked by leading beauty retailers such as Mecca in Australia, Space NK in the UK and Sephora, the brand has since extended into day and night moisturisers, masks, serums, essences and more. Manzanita Capital, which also owns Space NK, bought Eve Lom close to 20 years ago, expanding it from a niche brand to a global player. The private equity firm will retain a minority interest in the brand to help springboard its presence in Asia.

According to Jinfeng Huang, founder and CEO of Yatsen, we are delighted to welcome the globally beloved Eve Lom brand into our portfolio. “Eve Lom is one of the best-performing skincare brands, famed for its professional brand heritage and unique formulas that combine luxury with high performance results.” Eve Lom is available through Mecca and select marketplaces and e-tailers in Australia.

The global shaving market has long been a two-horse race between Procter & Gamble’s Gillette and Edgewell’s Schick. The rise of online startups such as Dollar Shave Club and Harry’s Inc led to a corporate acquisition frenzy. Unilever bought Dollar Shave Club for US$1 billion in 2016, but P&G and Edgewell have faced tougher scrutiny in their quest to retain dominance in the global shave market. The US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) took action against Edgewell’s US$1.37 billion attempted buyout of Harry’s Inc in February last year. P&G’s takeover of Billie, the women’s

shaving startup, was also blocked by the FTC in January. Following the collapse of the Edgewell deal, Harry’s Inc has raised US$155 million in a Series E funding round, backed by Bain Capital, one of the world’s leading multi-asset investment firms, and Macquarie Capital, the Australian multinational investment bank. With a market capitalisation of US$1.7 billion, the company will invest in new products across its core brand and Flamingo, its women’s razor and body brand founded in 2018.

Harry’s also entered pet care last March at the beginning of the Covid-19 pandemic

INDUSTRY NEWS

Harry’s Inc raises US$155 million to add more brands

with the Cat Person brand. A new haircare brand called Headquarters debuted in January. Further funds will be allocated to acquiring new brands in the fast-moving direct-to-consumer market and the company will also focus on international expansion.

Westfield living centres clock up 450 million visits in 2020

L’Oréal heiress named world’s richest woman

As many countries around the world suffered strict lockdowns for extended periods, daily life in most of Australia continued pretty much as normal as possible. Shopping malls started life as meeting and social centres, in addition to their retail business. This original guiding principle remains in force reveals Westfield iQ research.

During 2020, Westfield Living Centres clocked up 450 million customer visits – an average of 46 million per month. “Customers spent more than $22 billion with our retail partners and enjoyed more than one-and-a-half hours of their time on each visit,” said Phil McAveety, Scentre Group Chief Customer and Business Development Manager.

About 20 million people live within close proximity to a Westfield centre nationwide. Key beauty retailers include Mecca, Chanel, Jurlique, Sephora, The Body Shop, Endota Spa, L’Occitane, David Jones, Myer and many more. According to the latest research, 90 per cent of customers feel safe visiting their local Westfield shopping complex. Over the next year, 65 per cent say they plan to purchase a “Big Ticket” item, including technology, furniture and whitegoods. The latest NielsenIQ Unlocking Consumption Global Survey of 16 leading countries, including Australia, revealed that the impact of the Covid-19 pandemic has affected Australians less than their global counterparts. Almost half – 46 per cent – of global respondents in the survey said they felt their spending would be constrained over the next three to six months. By contrast to 33 per cent of Australian respondents. Nielsen added that only 22 per cent of Australian respondents felt insecure about their income prospects in the first half of the year. Australia is one of the leading promotionally-driven markets in the world and this emphasis will continue, notes the researcher. Almost half – 49 per cent – of Aussie respondents said they would prefer to buy products on promotion regardless of brand. More than 48 per cent said they would choose the lowest-priced products regardless of brand and 45 per cent would opt for private label/ store brands.

Liliane Bettencourt, the only child of Eugene Schueller, the founder of L’Oréal, snagged the title of world’s richest woman several times. She was still the top female billionaire in the world and the richest woman in France when she died in 2017 Francoise Bettencourt Meyers with a net worth of US$44.9 billion. She, too, had only one child - Francoise Bettencourt Meyers - who has again been named the richest woman in the world in 2020 by BCG, the world’s second largest consulting firm. Her ranking also underlines how the world’s biggest beauty company continues to expand. The 67year old’s net worth far exceeds that of her late mother’s at US$73.4 billion. Bettencourt Meyers is a L’Oréal board member and is also the president of the family’s philanthropic foundation. Other female plutocrats who made the top 10 list in descending order are: 2) Julia Flescher Koch (US$61.1 billion) of Koch Industries, the US petrol and chemical giant 3) Alice Walton (US$57.6 billion) of Walmart, the world’s largest retailer 4) MacKenzie Scott (US$53.5 billion), ex-wife of Amazon founder Jeff Bezos 5) Jacqueline Mars (US$41.1 billion) of Mars Inc, the US confectionery titan 6) Yang Huiyan (US$28.6 billion), the Chinese real estate developer and richest woman in Asia 7) Gina Rinehart (US$27.6 Billion), the mining mogul and richest person in Australia 8) Abigail Johnson (US$25.3 billion), CEO of Fidelity Investments, one of the largest asset managers in the world 9) Iris Fontbona (US$23.6 billion), the Chilean mining and beverage magnate 10) Suzanne Klatten (US$22.9 billion), the BMW auto heiress and businesswoman L’Oréal has also just announced it will use 95 per cent sustainable ingredients across all of its brands by 2030. The multinational will harness Green Sciences to meet its target. The goal is ambitious as only 34 per cent of ingredients in L’Oréal’s stable of products are of natural or natural origin. But 80 per cent of the multinational’s are biodegradable and 59 per cent are renewable.

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |29

INDUSTRY NEWS In-store shopping for beauty high on consumers agenda, says Klarna Swedish shop-now-pay-later giant, Klarna, handled US$35 billion in global sales in 2019 and launched in Australia in January 2020. The company is now the largest fintech startup in Europe and just released a cross-generational report on the beauty preferences of Baby Boomer, Gen Z and Millennial shoppers. A key takeaway centred on post-pandemic behaviours.

Following the mass rollout of Covid-19 vaccines, Gen Zers said they were more likely to return to bricks-and-mortar stores, followed by Millennials, Gen Xers and Boomers. The study also highlighted the fact that 67 per cent of respondents preferred to buy beauty products in-store by contrast to online prior to the Covid-19 pandemic.Skincare is the favourite beauty

category across generations, especially amongst younger consumers. Forty one per cent of Gen Zers and 40 per cent of Millennials revealed that skincare was the beauty category where they spent the most money. By contrast to 31 per cent of both Gen Xers and Boomers. Buy-Now-PayLater services are instrumental in increasing e-commerce sales, notes the report. More than half of respondents said that flexible payment options are the biggest factor in improving the online experience. An interesting insight for brands confirmed that Gen Z and Millennial shoppers are acquiring most of their beauty information from YouTube, Instagram and TikTok. While older consumers prefer to discover beauty tips on the dedicated mobile

apps of the brands themselves. Japanese giant Shiseido also believes that human interaction remains essential to increasing beauty sales. However, the company says that AI and AR tech tools greatly enhance the in-store experience. Angelica Munson, global chief digital officer for Shiseido, notes that the integration of beauty tech is the future and will enhance the role of instore beauty advisors.

“Sometimes there’s a little apprehension and we see AI and AR as taking jobs away or changing the way we work”, she adds.

“But ultimately, what we see is that human touch and that service, that spirit can never be replaced. These are tools and enablers that augment that human touch within the digital channel and also in-store.”

Naturally Good Expo Scheduled for May 30-31 One of Australia’s most popular health and well-being products trade shows - the Naturally Good Expo - skipped a year in 2020 because of Covid-19 restrictions. The popular event, now in its seventh iteration, is back this year and will be held at the International Convention Centre in Sydney from May 30th to 31st. The coronavirus crisis put an even greater emphasis on health and natural beauty and the 2021 expo reflects this stronger focus with 310 exhibitors and 12 key presentations. Major partners include Australian Organic, the peak

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national body for the organic industry, and Australian Made. The Beauty and Living Zone will highlight the sector’ s position as one of the fastest-growing areas in the natural arena. Marquee brands in the natural cosmetics and personal care space include Weleda and G&M Cosmetics, the $20 million-a-year company that celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. Naturally Good’s team-up with Australian Made is showcased in an Aussie-only pavilion, including personal care and lifestyle exhibitors such as Like No Udder Soaps, We The Wild organic fertilisers and plant sprays and Froth N Flames eco-friendly soaps, bath salts and candles. More than 30 stands will showcase their wares from vitamins to herbal remedies in the Natural Health Zone, led by Oborne Health Supplies, Regul8, the digestive tune-up brand, and Glimlife vitamins and minerals. Long-standing exhibitors like Global by Nature, the leading distributor of natural health and beauty brands, and Bio Living, Australia’s most recognised health and wellness distributor, are back and the keenly anticipated Pitch Fest, which encourages emerging brands, will be held from the show floor for the first time. Lyn Ormiston, Commercial and Digital Innovation Manager for Naturally Good, confirms that Australians are more aware of the need to prioritise health and well-being and the demand for clean and natural health and beauty products is stronger than ever. For more information and details about the event - go to www.naturallygood.com.au

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Look Good Feel Better’s Dream Ball helps raise over $400,000 for the charity each year.

Without the help of the Dream Ball Prize Committee who source the incredible prizes available on the night, this amount of money could never be raised.

If you would like to join the committee or if you have prizes to donate, we would love to hear from you!

To get involved or to find out more, email fundraising@lgfb.org.au

A recent McKinsey study fingered nutrition and health products as one of the three pillars of the US$1.5 trillion global wellness market. The Covid-19 pandemic has further boosted the fast-growing sector, which is expected to increase by 5 to 10 per cent a year.

Australia has long been at the forefront of the consumer desire for a health-conscious lifestyle and leading vitamin and supplement brands such as Swisse and Blackmores have forged thriving export markets.

Procter & Gamble (P&G) has enlarged its footprint in Australia with the acquisition of Vöost, the effervescent vitamin and minerals brand. Based in Melbourne, Vöost was founded in 2013 and has built up a strong market with Millennials. Available in more than 4000 stockists nationwide, including Priceline, Woolworths, Coles and

Chemist Warehouse, the brand also sells in the UK, Singapore and Hong Kong.

The global effervescent tablet market has enormous appeal reports Data Bridge Market Research. Over the next seven years, the data tracker predicts the category will increase at a CAGR of 8.3 per cent to reach US$46.93 billion.

Vöost offers a wide range of products, including Vitamin B, Vitamin C, Collagen, Energy, Performance, Iron + Vitamin C and Immunity supplements for children and adults.

This move enables us to expand our portfolio in Australia, beyond Vicks and Metamucil, by adding a broad range of consumer-preferred vitamins, minerals and supplements (VMS) that will complement our current offers, says Paul Gama, President, P&G Personal Health Care.

P&G Q3 sales increase 5 per cent to US$18.1 Billion Skincare and haircare fired on all cylinders for Procter & Gamble (P&G) during its Q3 2021.

Overall net sales rose 5 per cent, by contrast to the same period in 2020, to US$18.1 billion.

Beauty sector organic sales surged 7 per cent, fuelled by Olay and the luxury SK-II skincare brand, which surged 30 per cent globally over the quarter.

Haircare organic sales, led by Head & Shoulders, Pantene and Herbal Essences, jumped in high single digits, especially in mainland China.

As countries eased out of lockdown, the grooming and shaving category powered by Gillette rose 4 per cent over Q3 2020.

There has been a strong focus on oral care over the past year and P&G’s share of the pie increased 3 per cent through major brands like Oral-B. We maintained another quarter of solid top-line, bottom-line and cash results in what continues to be a challenging operating environment, noted David Taylor, chairman, president and CEO of P&G. “We remain focused on executing our strategies of superiority, productivity, constructive disruption and improvising P&G’s organisation and culture.

These strategies enabled us to build strong business momentum before the Covid crisis and accelerate our progress during the crisis, and they remain the right strategies to deliver balanced growth and value creation over the long term.”

INDUSTRY NEWS

P&G Buys Australian vitamins brand

“VMS is one of the largest and fastestgrowing categories in the over-the-counter health care industry. We are poised to continue to invest in our business and advancing our VMS offerings by adding another superior brand to our strong health care portfolio.”

WWD Beauty Inc ranks Top 10 beauty companies for 2020 The major multinationals are recovering from the impact of Covid-19. But the first half of 2020 dealt a blow to their bottom lines.

Mass brands weathered the pandemic storm in better shape. As did key players with a foot in both the prestige more reasonably priced beauty sectors such as L’Oréal and L Brands, according to the WWD Beauty Inc Top 100 rankings for 2020.

The eagerly anticipated list from the global fashion authority again confirms that the leading multinationals still control the lion’s share of the global cosmetics industry. The only two indie brands included in the rankings at numbers 90 and 96 were Huda Beauty and Anastasia Beverley Hills. Both companies received major injections of funds from leading private equity firms in 2017 and 2018 to boost further expansion.

At the top of the tree, Beauty Inc’s top 10 beauty majors for the calendar year 2020 also show a divide with only four attaining double-digit billion-dollar revenues. Only sales of makeup, skincare, haircare, suncare and deodorants were included in the final figures.

TOP 10 BEAUTY COMPANIES FOR 2020

• L’Oréal – US$31.95 billion; down 6.3 Per cent on 2019 • Unilever – US$22.17 billion; down 3.4 per cent on 2019 • The Estee Lauder Companies – US$14.2 billion; down 11 per cent on 2019 • Procter & Gamble – US$14 billion; up 0.7 per cent on 2019 • Shiseido – US$8.39 billion; down 18.4 per cent on 2019 • L Brands (Victoria’s Secret, Bath & Body Works) – US$7.24 billion; up 11.3 per cent on 2019 • Natura & Co (The Body Shop, Aesop, Avon International and major Brazilian brands) – US$7.23 billion; up 155.6 per cent on 2019 • Beiersdorf (Nivea, Eucerin, La Prairie) – US$6.28 billion; down 9.2 per cent on 2019 • LVMH (Sephora, Parfums Christian Dior, Guerlain, Givenchy) – US$5.99 billion; down 23.2 per cent on 2019 • Chanel – US$5.3 billion; down 22 per cent in 2019 RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |33

Trends in New Products

– Skincare Dominates 2021 First Half Releases

by Elisabeth King Launching new products requires major commitments in time, money and management resources. The Covid-19 pandemic seriously slowed the launch calendars of many of the biggest names in the beauty industry. But new releases are vitally important in today’s hypercompetitive marketplace and the start of the year has seen more single star launches and additions to franchises start to flow down the pipeline.

The makeup and fragrance categories were heavily impacted by global lockdowns and restricted socialising over the past year.

So it’s not surprising that skincare remains dominant in first half releases and the selfcare boom has also stimulated the hair and DIY makeup sectors.

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MOISTURE-PLUS / SUPER LUXURY / FIRST-TO-MARKET

Clinique’s major launch in the first half is an updated version of its global bestseller, Moisture Surge. “Launched at the end of March, Clinique Moisture Surge 100-Hour Auto-Replenishing Hydrator is an addictively refreshing moisturiser”, says Rene Benkenstein, National Education Manager. “It provides hydration with exclusive, nutrient-rich Aloe

Rene Benkenstein, NATIONAL EDUCATION MANAGER, CLINIQUE

Vera Bio-Ferment and hyaluronic acid that goes over 10 layers deep and delivers 100 hours of hydration for plump, glowing skin, even after washing your face. AutoReplenishing Technology helps skin create its own internal water source, delivering continuous hydration. After one use, the formula instantly boosts hydration and the skin’s barrier is strengthened substantially in just four weeks. Oil-free, it is suitable for all skin types.”

La Prairie’s Platinum Rare Haute Rejuvenation Protocol, an intensive treatment that visibly rejuvenates the skin, debuted in February. “The idea of an at-home one month rejuvenation treatment resonated with our clients and we nearly sold out worldwide”, says

Ai San Beaumont, MARKETING AND COMMUNICATIONS, LA PRAIRIE ANZ

With six clear benefits, it’s easy to understand its success, adds Beaumont.

“The product addresses key rejuvenation issues such as a reduction in lines and wrinkles as it boosts volume, maintains the skin’s firmness and elasticity and helps to defend against external stress factors and irritants. Our Pure Gold Collection launched in late April, comprising Pure Gold Radiance Cream, Eye Cream and Concentrate. Inspired by the fleeting moment of the Golden Hour in the Alps, the Pure Gold Diffusion System features the noble metal to give the skin a unique radiance and lustre.”

As part of Biossance expansion in the Asia/Pacific region, the brand appointed Erin Tuffy as Regional Director in

to target age-related collagen depletion”, says Kelly Salter, Senior Brand Manager. “As Dr LeWinn’s have led the

Kelly Salter, SENIOR BRAND MANAGER, DR LEWINN

skincare space for over 20 years, it was only natural for us to expand our offerings and give our customers new and innovative ways to embrace the appearance of their skin, as well as their hair and nails, at any age. Our marine collagen supplements allowed us to expand into a new and exciting skincare arena while continuing to lead as skincare experts.”

In April, two new products were introduced to the highly successful Eau Thermale Avène A-Oxitive range, says Julie Dejean, Marketing Director for Pierre Fabre. “A-Oxitive Night Peeling

Julie Dejean, MARKETING DIRECTOR, PIERRE FABRE

Erin Tuffy, REGIONAL DIRECTOR, BIOSSANCE ASIA/PACIFIC

December, following the US cult brand’s Australian and New Zealand debut a year earlier.

“We launched our new Biossance Squalane + Dark Spot Serum in February”, says Tuffy. “We are the first brand to use white shiitake mushroom extract to help visibly fade dark spots, as well as stop new ones forming. Combined with our unique stable form of Vitamin C, it’s the perfect product for an instant boost of brightness.

In the second half of the year, we will be expanding into new and exciting categories.

Our Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil has recently experienced huge growth and is regularly our #1 selling product as self-care has become more important than ever.”

SUPPLEMENT EXPANSION / DERMOCOSMETICS POWER ON

Dr LeWinn’s latest “secret” to skin luminosity centres on two collagen-rich supplements - Marine Collagen Peptide + Inner Beauty Liquid Shot and Inner Beauty Powder - launched in November.

“Marine collagen supplements have seen huge growth over the past few years, with 33 per cent of women adding ingestible supplements to their routine in 2020 alone

Cream and A-Oxitive Smoothing Eye Contour Cream work through the night to boost cellular activity, detoxify and even out skin texture, while preserving youthful skin thanks to a night renewing complex of active ingredients. The two key actives are Gradual Release Vitamin A and Gradual Release Vitamin E. Evening primrose oil is also featured in Night Peeling Cream because of its powerful antioxidant properties.”

April also saw the launch of Eau Thermale Avène’s new range for hormonal acne - Cleanance Women, says Dejean.

“Cleanance Women Corrective Serum helps to reduce blemishes, refine skin texture and reduce the appearance of pores, thanks to its combination of actives such as glycolic/lactic acids, Synovea and P-Refinyl. Cleanance Women Smoothing Night Cream has been proven to reduce blemishes by 50 per cent and is well tolerated by women with sensitive skin. We also launched Cicalfate + Scar Gel, proven to reduce the appearance of scars within three weeks.”

Klorane’s Nettle Shampoo was reformulated with 85 per cent natural ingredients in April, says Dejean. “We have also introduced Klorane Mask Powder with Organic Nettle, a first-to-market purifying treatment mask. The innovative powder

TALKING POINT

Ai San Beaumont, Marketing and Communications, La Prairie ANZ.

transforms to a lather when applied to wet hair and is powered by 100% organic nettle extract and kaolin clay.”

L’Oréal’s Active Cosmetics Division, including the La RochePosay, CeraVe and SkinCeuticals brands, has enjoyed even more success in Australia and worldwide during the Covid-19 pandemic.

Following the launches of La-Roche Posay Toleriane Ultra Dermallergo Serum, which strengthens the skin barrier, last October and the introduction of SkinCeuticals Custom D.O.S.E service in February, we launched La Roche-Posay Effaclar Ultra Concentrated Serum in April, says Nikita Papas, Communications Manager, L’Oréal Active Cosmetics Division.

Nikita Papas, COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER, L’ORÉAL ACTIVE COSMETICS DIVISION

“Combining an expert blend of exfoliating acids and soothing niacinamide, it’s a high-performance serum designed to combat breakouts and has anti-recurrence benefits to help create healthier-looking skin. Our new CeraVe Hydrating CreamTo-Foam Cleanser also went on shelf in April. Developed by dermatologists, it showcases an amino acid-based surfactant that transforms the cream into a soft, luxurious foam on contact with water to remove dirt and makeup without stripping the skin’s natural moisture.”

FRENCH ICON BRAND EXTENDS REACH / NATURAL AND AUSTRALIAN-MADE A MAJOR DRAW

The iconic French pharmacy skincare brand, Embryolisse, launched in Chemist Warehouse in April, says Arnaud Husser, Managing Director, Cosmetiques de France. “The heritage brand is revered

Arnaud Husser, MANAGING DIRECTOR, COSMETIQUES DE FRANCE

by customers, makeup artists, models and celebrities worldwide. The hero product is Lait-Creme Concentre, a simple, universal moisturiser with multiple benefits. One tube is sold globally every five seconds and it is known as the little black dress of skincare in France. The primer brand RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |35

TALKING POINT

of choice at fashion runway shows, Lait-Creme Concentre was developed in 1950 by Parisian dermatologist, Dr Tricot, and has been a secret passed from one generation to the next. We are also introducing Lait-Creme Sensitive, a hypoallergenic and fragrancefree product for the whole family, including babies, and HydraSerum, a targeted hyaluronic serum that re-charges the natural water reservoir deep within the dermis.”

Natio launched two new ranges at the end of March, says Allison Harvey, Product Development Manager for Natio. “Natio Clear offers high-

Allison Harvey, PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MANAGER, NATIO

performing, Australian-made formulations with natural ingredients to balance oil, clear pores and restore the skin’s natural moisture. The range has been designed for people who have oily/combination skin and concerns about breakouts and imperfections, regardless of age. Acne and blemish-prone skin is a universal skin problem affecting 79 per cent of the adolescent population, while an estimated 54 per cent of men and women over the age of 25 experience some degree of facial acne. The strategy behind the new Natio Clear range is to offer customers products that visibly make a difference to their skin, with the three non-comedogenic products having been tested on real people.”

Natio Calm offers delicate formulations free from known irritants and fragrance to quickly calm and settle the skin, says Harvey. “This range has been designed to care for and protect delicate and sensitive skin for customers concerned about potential irritation. Leading dermatology associations advise that up to 50 per cent of people refer to their skin as sensitive to skincare products. The Natio Calm range has been formulated with minimal ingredients, no fragrance and has also been sensitivity tested.”

Another Australian naturally-based brand, A’kin, launched a new Cream & Clay mask range at the beginning of the year - Ultra Hydrating Cream Mask, Detoxifying Deep Cleanse Mask and Brightening Glow Mask. We saw our customers wanting different results for different areas of their face, driving a multi-masking trend, particularly for a 36| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

younger customer, says Ramona Spiteri, A’kin Senior Brand Manager. “The

Lily Lavigna, HEAD OF COMMERCIAL, NUDE BY NATURE

Ramona Spiteri, A’KIN SENIOR BRAND MANAGER

three masks can be used in tandem to customise the masking experience whether it be for hydration, detoxifying and brightening - to create bespoke solutions. The masks are created with powerful Australian ingredients. Our existing A’kin Sheet Masks are ranked within the top 5 products where ranged, so we expect immense popularity with our new ranging of Cream & Clay masks.”

We have had a very busy beginning to 2021, with many new product releases and more to come, says Vicki Engsall, CoFounder and Product Development Manager of The Jojoba Company.

Vicki Engsall, CO-FOUNDER AND PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MANAGER, THE JOJOBA COMPANY

“Our harvest took place on our Beresford Farm in Yenda in NSW in February and to celebrate we launched Jojoba Bean Natural Exfoliant, the first of its kind. After we harvest the mature jojoba beans, they are sent for crushing where 50 per cent of the mass of the bean is extracted, filtered and bottled. The remaining bean is now milled into a fine exfoliant for the face and body. We have packaged this in a 100% compostable bag, which makes the product zero-waste.”

Our new Jojoba Activating Cleansing Oil was launched in March, says Engsall.

“The oil turns to a milky emulsion when activated with water to remove even the most stubborn waterproof makeup and sunscreens, to leave the skin fresh, clean and revitalised. Last year, we launched our signature age-defying product, Youth Potion, and we are experiencing year-onyear growth at 63 per cent.”

RE-LAUNCHES GAIN TRACTION / AFFORDABLE BEAUTY

In February, we relaunched our number one selling SKU - Natural Mineral Cover - which is Australia’s number one selling cosmetic product in value, with one unit sold every two minutes, says Lily Lavigna, Head of Commercial for Nude by Nature. “One hundred per cent natural and toxic-free,

Natural Mineral Cover is a loose mineral powder that delivers sheer to full coverage with a satin radiant finish that is buildable to achieve perfect results from everyday makeup to a more sophisticated look. We have seen an evolution in the consumer landscape over the past 12 months. The idea of safer formulations has resonated with consumers during the pandemic, helping to propel the natural personal care segment plus-5 per cent globally, which is supporting our growth ambitions to sell one unit of Natural Mineral Cover every 1.5 minutes after the re-launch.”

We were thrilled to launch three new Dr Hauschka day lotions in March for customers who prefer a lighter texture to the rich and creamy Dr Hauschka day creams, says Melanie Anderson, Esthetician Trainer for Dr Hauschka.

Melanie Anderson, ESTHETICIAN TRAINER, DR HAUSCHKA

“For oily to combination skins we now have Balancing Day Lotion with a light matte texture. For those with sensitive skin, there’s Soothing Day Lotion, rich in cocoa butter and borage. Lastly, we have re-named Revitalising Day Cream as Revitalising Day Lotion, which continues to be a favourite among devoted Dr Hauschka users.”

Eylure launched into a new category in March with the debut of an at-home dye kit for the brows called DyBrow, our first-ever brow product, says Angelique Nagaria, Brand Manager, McPherson’s Consumer Products.

Angelique Nagaria, BRAND MANAGER, MCPHERSON’S CONSUMER PRODUCTS

“With many beauty salons closed during the Covid-19 pandemic, Eylure saw an opportunity to expand into the DIY beauty market to encourage a new category and attract new customers. Even when beauty salons re-opened, many consumers still preferred to do things themselves. DyBrow delivers natural and fuller-looking brows in 15 minutes and the results last for up to six weeks. Available in Dark Brown and

TALKING POINT Skincare was definitely a category hero in 2020 and the trend is set to continue

Black, it is an affordable, beautician-quality product. April/May was the on-counter date for our new range of 3/4 lashes in six great styles.”

Mavala launches seasonal nail polish and lipstick collections four times a year, says Remi Bouchenez, Managing Director of Cosimer. “With over 300

Remi Bouchenez, MANAGING DIRECTOR, COSIMER

shades available in Australia and one sold every three minutes globally, the mini- nail polish assortments are eagerly anticipated and each bottle delivers 10 manicures.

Mavala’s iconic nail hardener - Scientifique K+ - has also seen a huge surge in demand as women revert back to natural-looking nails. In April, we launched a new portable, pen-size version in response to customers asking about a more precise application of the product to the fragile and/or brittle tips of the nails.”

Chemcorp hit the ground running in 2021. Skincare was definitely a category hero in 2020 and the trend is set to continue, says Jodie Phillips, Managing Director, Chemcorp International.

“We’re excited to be launching Freeman

Jodie Phillips, MANAGING DIRECTOR, CHEMCORP INTERNATIONAL

Beauty, the long-established and market leading US brand, in May. The brand offers a range of high-performing, natureinspired and on-trend skin and body masks.

Each mask provides a specific beauty solution, including hydrating, polishing and soothing, developed to leave skin looking and feeling beautiful. At a price point that makes masking an accessible part of an overall self-care routine.”

Phillips predicts that the makeup accessories category, which was hard hit during the pandemic will pick up again.

“EcoTools is a pioneer and category leader when it comes to sustainable, clean beauty options. In February we launched the Bioblender, a 100 per cent biodegradable makeup sponge. Perfect for use with liquid and cream makeup products, it is packaged in FSC certified paper printed with soy ink.”

Over the past 25 years, the 1000HR Lash & Brow Kit has become an iconic Australia product, says Phillips. “In 2021, the range continues its growth with additional product ranges, including the rollout of the Lash & Brow Dye Gentle

Plant Extract formula in March, developed for skin with sensitivity to peroxide-based formulas. We also launched a new Lash & Brow Enhancing Serum. Formulated as a spray, it contains a blend of six key vitamins including Vitamin A to support natural lash and brow growth.”

NEAR-PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE CONTINUES GROWTH CURVE

In January, we launched the revolutionary ageLOC Boost, says Tracy Clifford, Head of Sales and Marketing for Nu Skin. “This breakthrough beauty

Tracy Clifford, HEAD OF SALES AND MARKETING, NU SKIN

device system helps to produce visibly brighter, plumper and bouncier skin in as little as two minutes a day. It’s a small, on-the-go device that consumers can take with them and use anywhere, anytime.

In February, we completely re-imagined the Nutricentials brand and renamed it Nutricentials Bioadaptive Skincare. This included new branding, fresh formulas, a packaging overhaul and 14 new products, which contain ingredients that help the skin to deal with environmental stressors RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |37

TALKING POINT

such as late nights, pollution and blue light rays. We will also be launching a brand-new range of beauty supplements - Collagen+ - in August. Available in a powder and drink format, they are designed to support the skin’s hydration levels.”

Medik8 is the go-to brand for skincare junkies worldwide. In January, the UK-based brand launched Crystal Retinal 20, the most powerful addition to the Crystal Retinal range, says Daniel Isaacs, Director of Research. “It is formulated

Daniel Isaacs, DIRECTOR OF RESEARCH, MEDIK8

with our highest strength Retinaldehyde, a next generation form of Vitamin A that is clinically proven to work up to 11 times faster than retinol. In February we launched Medik8 Sleep Glycolic, which was no mean feat as the effectiveness of exfoliating acid products depends heavily on two factors - acid concentration and the pH of the formula. In Sleep Glycolic, we have optimised our free, active acid content by lowering our pH to 3.5 to achieve a free active value of 10 per cent to deliver a powerful formula to deal with stubborn skin concerns like hyperpigmentation.”

The Spain-based multinational, mesoestetic Pharma Group, is one of the world’s leading labs for solutions to treat pigmentation and 80 per cent of its products are exported to Europe, China, the Middle East, the US and Australia. “In February, we launched a next-generation cleansing and treatment range of nine products, including a hydratonic mist, intensive purifying mask and micellar biphasic makeup remover”, says Fernando Gonzalez, Marketing Director of mesoestetic Pharma Group.

Fernando Gonzalez, MARKETING DIRECTOR, MESOESTETIC PHARMA GROUP

“The concept of the range is based on the idea of balance. All of the products promote the balance of microbiota to help preserve the skin barrier against pathogenic microorganisms and protect against pollution.”

Calecim is the world’s only skincare brand powered by ethically sourced, cord-lining stem cells. We are excited to 38| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

launch our game-changing Professional Pigment Solution, says Xavier Simpson, Calecim Product Specialist. “The product is hydroquinone-free, gentle on the skin, and a highly effective treatment for hyperpigmentation, dark spots and blemishes. It uses novel ingredients and proven technologies to provide a first of its kind treatment for skin discolouration.

It works effectively on its own and as a daily complimentary treatment to clinical pigmentation procedures.”

Pigmentation is also in the spotlight for IS Clinical, the US medical grade skincare brand with a strong celebrity following. Our new Brightening Complex and Brightening Serum are simply one of the greatest pigmentation-removing systems in today’s skincare market, says Fergil Mestanov, IS Clinical’s Skincare Expert. “They

Fergil Mestanov, IS CLINICAL’S SKINCARE EXPERT

are both scientifically superior for safe brightening without adverse side effects.

The demand has been huge because no other cosmeceutical brand on the market offers safe brightening products that can be prescribed for pregnant women, nursing mothers and cancer patients. Consumers love the fact that the Brightening Complex not only treats pigmentation irregularities, but contains botanically-derived hyaluronic acid at 11 per cent, making it a 2-in-1 product with a built-in moisturiser.”

CURLY HAIR NOT JUST A PASSING TREND / AUSTRALIAN LUXURY FRAGRANCE COMES OF AGE

HASK Hair Care has a long and established relationship with Hollywood stars and hairstylists and is one of the fastest growing haircare brands globally.

The company is also the #1 brand worldwide in the leave-in spray market, launching the Keratin Protein 5-in-1 Leave-In Spray in January. In April we were excited to launch our most extensive and innovative collection yet - the Curl Care Collection - says Matthew Hiscox, General Manager Asia/Pacific, Inspired Beauty Brands. “HASK is a

Matthew Hiscox, GENERAL MANAGER ASIA/ PACIFIC, INSPIRED BEAUTY BRANDS

brand that focuses on developing products that solve hair problems and the Curl Care Collection is the first range it has designed specifically for curly and wavy hair of any pattern. The lineup includes Shampoo, Conditioner, Deep Conditioner, 5-in-1 Leave-In Spray and three styling products including Curl Defining Cream, Curl Shaping Jelly and Curl Enhancing Mousse.

Developed with a blend of coconut oil, argan oil, Vitamin E and a unique Curl Activating Complex, the collection is designed to moisturise, nourish, de-frizz and maintain any natural curl pattern.”

Natural, vegan and Australian is the tagline for the Davroe haircare brand. Late last year saw the launch of the first product in the Fortitude range - Split Ends Therapy Balm - and Chroma colour treatments, says Mary Centofani, Davroe Director. “We will be

Mary Centofani, DAVROE DIRECTOR

adding a Split Ends Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner in July, which promotes stronger hair and growth but is silicone, sulphate and paraben free. We are also releasing the Curlique Hair range in late August, featuring Clay Shampoo, Deep Conditioning Rinse, Curl Balm, Hydrating Oil and Curl Activator Spray. There has been a recent influx of products for curly hair, but we have focused on making all the products ‘curly girl approved’, which means they don’t include silicones or drying alcohols.”

In April, Goldfield & Banks, the luxury fragrance brand, launched Silky Woods.

“It’s the first fragrance in the perfumery industry featuring Australian agarwood, which is sustainably grown in tropical north Queensland, says Dimitri Weber, Founder and Creative Director. “Silky

Dimitri Weber, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, GOLDFIELD & BANKS

Woods will form part of Goldfield & Banks new premium botanical collection, centred around research and development, sustainable practices and quality of ingredients. In January, we launched a 50ml iteration of Pacific Moss, one of our top-performing unisex fragrances.

In June, we will follow this release with a 50ml Bohemian Lime, a grounding citrus aromatic fragrance.”

Nominations are now open for The Pharmacy Guild of Australia/Maxigesic Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award (PATY).

PATY is the premier award for Australian pharmacy assistants, recognising and celebrating the ‘best of the best’ in community pharmacy and recognising outstanding pharmacy assistants’ skills, knowledge, leadership and customer service across 12 months.

Pharmacy assistants across Australia are being encouraged to either self-nominate or to nominate a pharmacy assistant colleague who has demonstrated excellence during 2020.

Last year saw Ben King from Alice Springs Pharmacy recognised as Australia’s outstanding pharmacy assistant.

Ben had previously submitted a PATY nomination but wasn’t successful in becoming one of the Northern Territory finalists that year. However, Ben nominated again in 2020, which saw him win the award nationally and take home over $10,000 in prizes.

Ben said the best thing about winning PATY is the network with other inspiring pharmacy assistants that the opportunity creates.

“This opportunity is one in a million and the other pharmacy assistants you meet are incredible. The 2020 finalists and I have a group chat where we keep up to date with each other. They’re all improving their knowledge and skills, which is truly inspiring for me,” Ben said.

“With nominations open it’s a chance to look at your team and nominate those you think do an excellent job. It is passionate people who make a positive impact in the team and community.”

After being nominated or nominating for the award, applicants must complete a response to selection criteria. Up to ten per state will then be short-listed to participate in a virtual state workshop where winners from each state will be selected.

State winners then go on to participate in a national judging

PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA

Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award 2021 – nominations now open

workshop held in Brisbane in October, before the National winner is announced at the Pharmacy Assistant National Conference, a COVID Safe event which is being held at the Sofitel in Brisbane on 22-23 October 2021.

PATY offers participants some amazing opportunities, with the top ten finalists in each state being invited to take part in state workshops, which provide professional development opportunities.

State winners also receive a trophy, travel and registration to select events, exclusive training and development sessions, and a profile in national Guild electronic and social media platforms, plus external media.

The national winner receives over $10,000 worth of prizes including a trophy, a cash prize of $5,000, a customised training package, and return flights, accommodation, and registration to the Australian Pharmacy Professional Conference (APP) and the Pharmacy Assistant National Conference in 2022.

Anyone interested in nominating themselves or an outstanding pharmacy assistant is encouraged to visit pharmacyassistants.com/paty. Third party nominations close July 2.

This opportunity is one in a million and the other pharmacy assistants you meet are incredible.

CONTACT DETAILS THE PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA (NATIONAL) Level 2, 15 National Circuit, Barton ACT 2600 PO Box 310, Fyshwick, ACT 2609, P: +61 2 6270 1888 F: +61 2 6270 1800 www.guild.org.au

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |39

PHARMACY NEWS

Chemist Warehouse leads the way in influencer marketing

Home-grown brands Chemist Warehouse, Priceline Australia and Bondi Sands lead the pack when it comes to effective and efficient Instagram influencer marketing campaigns, ahead of global counterparts including Sephora, according to new competitor analysis from AI analytics brand, HypeAuditor.

The analysis reviewed influencer marketing campaigns that were live from October to December 2020.

Chemist Warehouse achieved 1.51% average engagement rate for the quarter, an average cost of $0.32 per engagement and sponsored posts from more than 60 influencers including Sophie Monk and Jules Robinson, earning the retailer a media value equivalent of over $70,000.

The analysis coincides with the launch of HypeAuditor’s Competitor Grid tool

that gives users full access to analytics on how competitor brand’s influencer marketing campaigns are performing based on the following criteria: engagement rate, audience quality, influencer quality, cost per engagement and reach.

The new tool was developed based on demand from marketers, as highlighted in research which found that almost one in three (31%) marketers are unaware of the influencers their competitors are working

with, while almost half (45%) do not know the audiences their competitors are targeting and 87% find it helpful to get a list of Instagram posts with competitors’ mentions.

As influencer marketing matures, brands are re-evaluating how they work with influencers, according to HypeAuditor CEO, Alex Frolov.

“Instead of one-off deals with hundreds of influencers, all using the same copy, marketers and agencies are now looking for more long-term, authentic partnerships that give influencers more creative control.

“To do this effectively, they need data that they can rely on when developing influencer marketing campaigns. Our new Competitor Grid answers these new needs and helps marketers make the right decisions when looking at implementing an influencer marketing strategy, based on valuable information gathered about competitors’ strategies.”

National Pharmacies improves patient privacy and customer experience One of Australia’s most progressive pharmacy and optical groups, National Pharmacies, has adopted the SOTI ONE platform across its retail network to enhance mobile operations, reduce IT costs and increase data security to protect patient privacy. National Pharmacies previously relied on manual and desktop IT infrastructure to address customer transactions, enquiries and manage stock through its retail supply chain. It required a solution that would empower staff, enable mobility, and improve the customer experience. As a result, National Pharmacies moved from fixed terminals to help automate the stock replenishment process, assist with customer queries, and improve member engagement, through in-house mobile apps. With more mobile devices being used within the business, remote functionality became a critical feature. National Pharmacies needed to deploy mobile apps remotely and previously struggled with a lack of visibility into their devices in the field.

“Our pharmacies continue to keep pace with emerging mobile technologies, and we 40| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

are always looking to improve the patient care experience,” National Pharmacies chief technology officer, Joe Polisena said.

“Mobile technologies are considered part of our critical infrastructure in delivering health solutions and SOTI MobiControl provides us with the right tools for the job; verifying each device has the right software updates, right permissions and comprehensive logging to ensure privacy is respected for each patient.”

According to SOTI vice president of sales for Asia Pacific, Michael Dyson, mobility and the Internet of Things (IoT) are having a tremendous impact on the pharmacy and healthcare sectors.

“The challenge, however, is that more devices and more connected things increases security risks and the potential of leaking confidential patient data. In order to provide the high level of data security necessary to protect patients, National Pharmacies is trusting the SOTI MobiControl to secure and manage the vast numbers of endpoints they are deploying to keep patient data secure and private.”

Since working with SOTI, National Pharmacies has experienced IT cost savings and seen a double-digit reduction in the number of help desk tickets logged for mobile devices.

“SOTI was able to provide a full, no cost proof of concept for National Pharmacies on their devices, in their environment, and assist them with all the challenges encountered throughout their deployment with ease,” Dyson said.

“Since implementing SOTI MobiControl, National Pharmacies has seen an immediate impact, with a 10 times ROI saving both time and money across their operations.”

PHARMACY NEWS

Trent Twomey appointed Guild’s National President The National Council of the Pharmacy Guild of Australia has announced Professor Trent Twomey as the organisation’s next National President.

Professor Twomey said he was greatly honoured to have been elected to the position of National President of the Guild. “This is truly an honour and I enthusiastically look forward to supporting our members and community pharmacy nationally. As pharmacists we should be proud to provide the highest levels of primary healthcare for every Australian community,” he said.

“I will be working hard to ensure community pharmacists are allowed to work to their full scope of practice in the interests of patients and the future of our primary healthcare sector. This will enable community pharmacies to deliver more services to patients and help ease pressure on other areas of the primary healthcare

sector. It is time that we are universally recognised as primary health professionals and it is imperative that our Governments and colleagues in other areas of primary healthcare recognise us as we do them.

Such recognition will also ensure the skills and expertise of community pharmacists are better and more fully utilised.”

Professor Twomey paid tribute to outgoing National President George Tambassis.

“George held the position for seven years and successfully led the Guild and our members over the last seven years during which we’ve seen many changes for our sector and profession,” he said.

“He has been at the helm for the negotiation and implementation of two Community Pharmacy Agreements which have strengthened the foundations of the profession and helped to ensure the future of the community pharmacy sector.

His commitment to community pharmacy and our patients follows a long line of distinguished National Presidents and I am proud to be able to follow a pharmacy leader of such achievement and high standing.”

Mr Tambassis congratulated Professor Twomey on his election and said the role came with “immense responsibilities” but also “great opportunities”.

“He will enjoy the privilege and honour of serving community pharmacists and our patients,” he said. “With over ten years of experience on National Council Professor Twomey is the right person for the job.”

Blooms The Chemist holds Leaders Summit Blooms The Chemist hosted its first inperson training event since the Covid-19 pandemic began. The Blooms The Chemist Store Leaders Summit took place in April at the voco Kirkton Park Hotel Hunter Valley, bringing together a mix of store Retail Managers, Pharmacists, and Retail Assistants from around Australia.

A total of 68 store leaders participated in the summit, which covered a refreshed focus on critical leadership and retailing skills, including in-depth training on people management, HBDI Assessments (measuring creativity, strategic thinking, problem solving, leadership, communication, and team/staff development), best business practice, and an exclusive retail study tour, delivered by experts in their field. Team building activities included after-dinner bonfires and grape-stomping.

“The workshop on HBDI Assessments and the Retail Study Tour were absolute highlights of the Summit,” said Vanessa Brennan, Retail Manager of Blooms The Chemist Penrith Plaza.

“I got so much out of all of the sessions, and it was really great to meet so many other store leaders who were so lovely and welcoming. I can’t wait to share what I’ve learnt with my own store team.”

01.

01. Leaders: Blooms The Chemist Store Leaders Summit delegates discover their HBDI profile.

Blooms The Chemist has continued to invest heavily in its culture and commitment to ensuring its people are leaders in healthcare and retail. The brand has recently expanded its OD/HR team to provide greater resources for team members, further improving its employeedriven mobile-friendly online learning platform and developing a slew of peoplefirst initiatives to be implemented across the brand’s 100+ pharmacies.

02. Delegates embark on the Retail Study Tour.

03. Enjoying a post-team build dinner.

04. Blooms The Chemist Store Leaders Summit delegates were a mix of store Retail Managers, Pharmacists, and Retail Assistants from around Australia.

02.

03.

04.

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Achieve Your Best Skin From Within These supplements can up the overall health of your skin.

When it comes to wanting to improve the quality of your skin, a thorough skin care regimen that consists of regular cleansing and applications of treatment serums and moisturisers (at the bare minimum) immediately springs to mind. In this day and age, it’s not uncommon for skin care routines to be cluttered with a multitude of products that claim to hydrate, even out your skin tone and plump up fine lines and wrinkles.

However, in recent years, there’s been a new contender that can also up the health of your skin - ingestible beauty powders. According to research company Innova Market Insights, there’s been 15 percent growth in food and beverage products positioned towards skin health from 2014 to 2018, with no signs of slowing down.

42| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

SPONSORED

The introduction of ingestible products are a direct response to consumers’ desires for a more holistic approach to their beauty routines. It comes as no surprise that consumers are becoming incredibly savvy; information is readily available at their fingertips (all it takes is a “Hey Google”), empowering them to break down bold marketing claims that traditional beauty brands are famed for advertising. Consumers are no longer drawn to wild promises of products that can dramatically change the quality of your skin.

Instead, thanks to this new thirst for knowledge, people are becoming more conscious of what ingredients are and what they do. In short, consumers want to know exactly what they’re putting on their faces and inside their bodies.

The appeal of ingestible beauty products stretch beyond the supercharged ingredients found in these powders. Consumers no longer want one solution to up the overall health of their skin; they’re willing to go down different avenues to achieve just that. The convenience of a beauty ingestible is also attractive as a dose can be readily available; ingestible beauty powders can be stored in the pantry and easily mixed with water on the go.

So, what exactly makes an ingestible beauty product so hard-working? Well, an ingestible beauty powder usually features a multitude of skin-improving ingredients - such as collagen - that can be readily absorbed by your bloodstream once it is ingested. In contrast, collagen is too large to penetrate past the upper layer of your skin, which is why it’s preferred to ingest it. The reason why it’s so essential to add this ingredient to your diet in order to maintain a healthy-looking complexion as it acts as scaffolding under the surface of your skin, making it look really plump, wrinkle-free and seriously smooth. Over time, genetics, lifestyle factors like blue light from computers and environmental factors like pollution and sun exposure can break down collagen in your skin and inhibit the regeneration of it, hence the importance of adding it to your diet.

Cue the launch of Skin Physics’ newest ingestible beauty powders which have been specially formulated to support skin health from within.

Skin Physics, renowned for their one-of-a-kind results driven formulations, already range their go-to Collagen Beauty Elixir ($49.95), which heroes marine collagen, a superior ingredient that can be readily absorbed by your body and supports the natural production of collagen, improving skin firmness over time. In addition, other ingredients such as superberries (namely acai, wild berry and blueberries), organic activated turmeric, vitamin C-rich Australian kakadu plum, beetroot and pre and probiotics can also answer to your skin’s structural needs by improving cell turnover, increasing skin’s firmness and elasticity, boost skin’s radiance and promote inner health.

Another key ingredient that can improve the quality of your skin is antioxidants, which is where the newly released Skin Physics Antioxidant Beauty Elixir ($39.95) comes in.

This product is powered by a myriad of superberries such as organic blackberry, blackcurrant, raspberry, strawberry, elderberry, blueberry, cranberry, acai, goji and pomegranate, along with Vitamins A, C, B2, B3, biotin, zinc, manganese, copper and selenium, every spoonful that’s mixed in with water can promote skin renewal, support overall hair and nail health, and improve the quality of your skin. On top of that, this beauty supplement aids in antioxidant protection in the cellular level by protecting your complexion against free radical damage one of the leading factors of skin ageing.

For consumers who are wanting to add more of a detox element to their diet, the newly released Skin Physics Cleanse Beauty Elixir ($29.95) may do the trick. Clever ingredients such as alkalising supergreens (namely kale, barley, chlorella, wheatgrass, spirulina, broccoli and alfalfa), quinoa sprout, acerola cherry (an ingredient that packs a serious vitamin C punch), and liquorice extract have the ability to support the natural detoxification of unwanted elements and improve inner balance. The Cleanse Beauty Elixir also features a high source of prebiotic fibres to support digestive well-being, alongside 1 Billion CFU/serve probiotics to support gut health and promote healthy flora, which is essential in improving your mood and skin barrier as a whole.

BECOME A STOCKIST

For more information on these products, or any of the Skin Physics range, contact Skin Physics at retail@biophysicsgroup.com.

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Skin Is In

Photo Credit: Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au

All the latest and greatest skincare launches of 2021 – so far

Dr Lewinn’s Reversaderm www.drlewinns.com.au Sulwhasoo Advanced First Care Activating Serum www.sulwhasoo.com Ella Bachè Defence+ Antioxidant Radiance Cream www.ellabache.com.au L’Occitane Immortelle Divine Eye Balm www.au.loccitane.com Synergie Skin TriDrationB www.synergieskin.com Elizabeth Arden Visible Brightening CicaGow Concentrate www.elizabetharden.com.au Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentre www.frenchbeautyco.com.au Sisley Paris Black Rose Beautifying Emulsion www.sisley-paris.com Medik8 Sleep Glycolic www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au Clarins calm-Essentiel Restoring Treatment Oil www.clarins.com.au Clinique Moisture Surge 100H Auto-Replenishing Hydrator www.elcompanies.com StriVectin Multi Action Super C Retinol www.strivectin.com Filorga Paris Optim-Eyes www.cosmax.com.au Jurlique Nutri-Define Supreme Rejuvenating Serum www.jurlique.com Sensori+ 18-Hr Hydrating & Rejuvenating Cloud Cream www.sensoriplus.com Ultraceuticals Ultra A Perfecting Intense Booster www.ultraceuticals.com 44| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

Mukti Rescue and Recover Serum www.muktiorganics.com Spascriptions Bedazzled Glitter Peel-Off Face Mask www.chemcorp.com.au Biore Daily Detox Exfoliator www.kao.com Swisse Bio-Ceramides Renewing Defence Cream www.swisse.com.au Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel www.jnj.com.au Garnier Nourishing Mist www.loreal.com Weleda Hydrating Facial Mist www.weleda.com.au Natio Calm Extra Gentle Eye Cream www.natio.com.au Avène A-Oxitive Eyes Smoothing Eye Contour Cream www.pierre-fabre.com Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel www.paulaschoice.com.au Blessed By Nature Antioxidant Triple Action Eye Serum www.blessedbynature.com.au Ole Henriksen Transform Wrinkle Blur Bakuchiol Eye Gel Crème www.olehenriksen.com Arithmos Soothe Superfine Body Oil www.arithmosskin.com.au Boost Lab Vitamin B3 Belmish Rescue Serum www.boostlabco.com Jergens Ultra Healing Body Balm www.kao.com The Jojoba Company Jojoba Activating Cleansing Oil www.thejojobacompany.com.au Laniege Radian-C Cream www.laneige.com Trilogy Hemphip Balancing Oil www.trilogyproducts.com.au RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |45

SPONSORED

PRICKLY PEAR CACTUS – DELIVERING NATURAL HYDRATION

Weightless freshness and long-lasting moisture to awaken skin’s vibrant natural beauty.

Despite its prickly, dry-looking exterior, the prickly pear is bursting with moisture on the inside. As a result, it can thrive even in very dry climates and withstand rising temperatures and falling water supplies. The secret of the cactus is in its “leaves”. It stores water in the leaf-shaped stems long after other desert plants have already withered. With its thick green stems and luscious, watery tissue (containing mucilage), the prickly pear manages to balance and mitigate extremes in its environment. In anthroposophy, mucilage is a source of vitality; the parched landscape is understood as an analogy to dry skin. These extreme conditions can be observed particularly well in Mexico, the original home of the prickly pear. That is why Weleda made a conscious decision to source the raw material from Mexico. The volcanic soils that are widespread there and the pronounced rainy and dry seasons help the Mexican prickly pear to have a particularly high mucilage content.

The process for obtaining the prickly pear extract is as unique as the plant itself: after the harvest, the cladodes or stem pads are dried to decrease the shipping weight (and thus being more environmentally friendly) before they are transported to Germany for processing. Only in the Weleda laboratories is the dried prickly pear cactus processed and the mucilage (polysaccharides) extracted (patent pending for the innovative extraction process). These swell up and a highly viscous extract is created, a visible proof of the water-binding properties of the cactus.

DEHYDRATED SKIN In the case of dehydrated skin, the body’s own “moisture management” is out of balance. Often a weakened skin barrier is behind the increased need for moisture. As a result, deeper skin layers can no longer compensate for the natural loss of moisture through evaporation and the skin increasingly dries out. The good news: with the targeted care products from Weleda Hydrating Facial Care range, the natural barrier function of the skin is supported and counteracts excessive moisture loss.

THE RANGE Weleda beauty experts have found a way to harness the revitalising and moisturising powers of organic prickly pear cactus in a new facial care series: a 24h Hydrating Cream, a 24h Hydrating Lotion, a quickly absorbed Hydrating Eye Gel and an invigorating Hydrating Facial Mist give the skin a fresh feeling and long-lasting hydration.

Each of the four individual formulas increase the moisture content of the skin and make the skin feel weightless and intensely hydrated.

Precious plant oils strengthen the natural protective layer of the skin and prevent it from drying out – at any age. Refreshingly fragrant, with a lively scent from natural essential oils of green mandarin and peppermint, rounded off with gentle, floral palmarosa the range lifts your spirits and enlivens your mind. The formulations have been clinically tested to increase hydration levels and prevent trans-epidermal water loss, helping maintain a healthy skin barrier.

THE RESULTS Immediate skin moisture increase*

*n=28, 30 min after one single application 46| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

HYDRATES INTENSELY WITH NATURE‘S GOODNESS.

All-Day Hydration Range HYDRATING CACTUS EXTRACT* 100% natural extract from organic prickly pear cactus Scientifically proven to deeply hydrate skin Rich in water-binding polysaccharides *Patent pending

Vegan

WELEDA. YOU ARE NATURE.

5 minutes with...

Celeste Barber Social media star Celeste Barber has almost 8 million Instagram followers – which equates to almost a third of Australia’s entire population – and famously raised more than $50 million for bushfire relief last year. The comedian was recently named as the new MCoBeauty ambassador, a brand founded by CEO Shelley Sullivan in 2016, 14 years after creating her first successful beauty brand, ModelCo. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the mum with the ‘hot husband’ and unlikely beauty influencer whose photos have taken the entire world by storm.

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5 MINUTES WITH

YOU’RE THE FACE OF VEGAN, CRUELTY-FREE BEAUTY BRAND MCOBEAUTY, WHICH IS AVAILABLE AT WOOLWORTHS, BIG W AND ONLINE – WHY IS THIS BRAND A GOOD FIT FOR YOU AND VICE VERSA?

Because I have been a huge fan of MCoBeauty products for years! I first discovered their products at Woolies after I had my kids and, like so many mums, I was wandering through the grocery aisles looking for a pick me up. I use their XTendLash mascara, Magic Brows eyebrow gel, Cheek & Lip Tint and Pout Gloss pretty much every day. They are staples I always buy time and time again.

YOU FAMOUSLY RAISED MORE THAN $50 MILLION FOR BUSHFIRE RELIEF LAST YEAR – DID YOU EXPECT THAT TO HAPPEN?

Definitely not! But I have recently spent some time with members of the RFS (New South Wales Rural Fire Service) in Eden, where my mother-in-law lives, to see how some of that money has been used.

Hearing their stories has been incredible.

They are such legends. One bloke was about to spend about $250 of his own money on a new helmet, but now he doesn’t have to.

YOU’VE SAID YOU’RE AN OVERNIGHT SUCCESS 20 YEARS IN THE MAKING – HOW DO STAY MOTIVATED?

To be honest, motivation isn’t something I really struggle with that much because I have been working to get to this point for so long. Now I am just really enjoying and sitting in my success. I always knew if I just

I always knew if I just kept going, did the work and stayed true to what I think is funny, then it would resonate with people and I’d find an audience. kept going, did the work and stayed true to what I think is funny, then it would resonate with people and I’d find an audience. I am super selective with what I do and always follow my gut. I lose motivation when I say yes to something that I know in my gut I am not 100% obsessed with, and I always regret it. So now that I am only working on stuff I’m psyched by, the motivation comes pretty easily.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO FUTURE FEMALE ENTREPRENEURS?

You are amazing, you can do this, follow your gut and just keep going.

DOES MORE HUMOUR NEED TO BE INJECTED INTO THE BEAUTY BUSINESS? WHY/WHY NOT?

Yew - 100 per cent. A lot of the time brands and the people who endorse those brands take themselves so bloody seriously, when really makeup is just supposed to be fun and accessible. I feel like we have really done that with the MCoBeauty campaign.

From the beginning, the MCoBeauty CEO Shelley and her team were like ‘We want to do something different, something funny and we want you to just do your thing.’ And I think that is the reason why people have responded so positively to the partnership.

YOU HAVE TWO SONS WITH YOUR ‘HOT HUSBAND API’ AND ARE ALSO MUM TO TWO STEP-DAUGHTERS – HOW DO YOU JUGGLE IT ALL?

It is a lot. I’m never on top of everything.

I feel like I am constantly scrambling to keep up.

Celeste Barber’s limited-edition makeup collection with MCoBeauty is called Big Beauty Love. The exclusive 28-piece collection, which ranges in price from $8 to $30, was designed in partnership with Barber and MCoBeauty CEO Shelley Sullivan.

It is sold exclusively at Woolworths supermarkets across Australia, as well as online at MCoBeauty.

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |49

Out & About

Michelle Ruzzene covers the latest product launch events showcasing the best in retail beauty right now.

AMOUAGE DEBUTS NEW RENAISSANCE COLLECTION

Marking the birth of a new era in the company’s history, Amouage revealed its Renaissance Collection to Sydney media at an intimate lunch at Chiswick, Woollahra.

Narrating a key chapter in the brand’s odyssey to paradise, the collection features four alluring fragrances –Enclave, Crimson Rocks, Ashore and Meander. Drawing inspiration from its home country, the Sultanate of Oman, these sophisticated blends of exquisitely contrasting scents are a liberating force of imagination created by internationally renowned perfumers including Domitille MichalonBertier (Crimson Rocks), Mackenzie Reilly (Ashore and Meander) and Julien Rasquinet (Enclave). At the event, Michael Marzano, National Education Manager at c, explained the company’s recent success, initiated at the end of 2019 with the arrival of Marco Parsiegla as CEO and the appointment of Renaud Salmon as Chief Experience Officer. “Marco Parsiegla, Chief Executive Officer at Amouage, who came from the Procter & Gamble group, has moved operations back to Oman and coming back to the roots and origins of Omani fine perfumery,” he said. www.agencedeparfum.com.au

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01. The four new Amouage fragrances.

02. Clayton Ilolahia from What Men Should Smell Like, Margaret Khoury from Fragrances of the World.

03. Michael Edwards from Fragrances of the World, Samantha McMeekin from Beauty Crew and Diandra Malivindi from Elle and Marie Claire.

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04. Nick Smart from Agence de Parfum), James Want and Jack Slade from Boss Hunting.

05. Michael Marzano from Agence De Parfum.

AVEDA CELEBRATES VEGAN MILESTONE IN STYLE Aveda, the plant-powered hair care brand owned by Estée Lauder Companies, previously announced all of its hair care, hair colour, body care, makeup and aroma products are now 100 per cent vegan. To celebrate the new milestone in the brand’s sustainability journey, Aveda invited media and guests to a plant-based dinner at vegan restaurant Alibi. Upon arrival, Clint Piper, Aveda’s General Manager, greeted guests with a spray of Aveda chakra as they entered. Clint then commenced the evening with a moment of wellness, a journey that included Aveda’s composition oils and stretches before the meal.

The food on the menu reflected the ingredients used in the products, including the Mango Cheesecake which included mango, coconut and pomegranate to align with the ingredients used in Aveda’s Nutriplenish range and further ignite Aveda’s ethos – beauty

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01. Guests were guided through a moment of wellness.

02. Michelle Ruzzene from Retail Beauty and Fiona Titheridge from Aveda.

03. The dinner celebrated the brand’s vegan milestone.

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04. Influencer Shannon Lawson and Robyn Foyster from TheCarousel.com.

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from the inside out. veda continue to embrace their mission to care for the world we live in and pioneer benchmarks of environmental responsibility not just in the world of beauty, but around the world, said Fiona Titheridge, Aveda’s Consumer Engagement Manager. All photos Esteban La Tessa. www.aveda.com.au

OUT & ABOUT

SISLEY PARIS LAUNCHES SIXTH LUXURY FRAGRANCE IZIA LA NUIT The latest addition to the Sisley Paris fragrance collection was launched at an intimate lunch at Restaurant Hubert.

Sisley Izia La Nuit is the sixth fragrance for the French luxury beauty company. At 01. the event, Sisley Paris general manager Irene Robinson spoke briefly about the brand, before introducing fragrance expert and author Michael Edward from Fragrances of the World. Michael, who usually splits his time between Australia and Paris, said perfume “has always been in the blood of the Sisley family”.

“I know that when we talk about Sisley 04. one is so mesmerised by the success of these upscale, elegant skincare and makeup products, one tends to think that the Sisley fragrances are an appendix – a later thought,” he said. “In fact, that’s not the case. The reality is that Count Hubert d’Ornano’s father, Guillaume, worked for François Coty in the 1920s, the legendary Coty. Following Coty’s death, he partnered with Armand Petitjean to create Lancôme in 1935. Again, we tend thing think of Lancôme as a skincare company, but in reality, they launched with five fragrances at that time.”

Michael continued to explain that Count Hubert d’Ornano was a trailblazing beauty executive who built Sisley, founded in 1976, into a worldwide powerhouse after founding the Orlane

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01. Sisley Izia La Nuit.

02. Sisley Paris general manager Irene Robinson.

03. Fragrance expert and author Michael Edward from Fragrances of the World.

04. The fragrance was launched at an intimate lunch at Restaurant Hubert.

brand. The latest launch, Izia La Nuit, is an ode to the night, bestowing new, heightened intensity on Izia, which was designed and created by Isabelle d’Ornano in 2017, Michael said. It is a homage to a unique and mysterious rose that grows in her garden and only blooms fleetingly once a year. Her fondness for the flower and its uncommon, original notes formed the foundations for Izia, a sunny and feminine fresh floral fragrance built around the distinctive scent of a bouquet of these roses, faithfully and exquisitely recreated by perfumer Amandine Clerc-Marie. A few years on, the Izia rose unleashes new sensuality, continuing the emotional experience with an addictive fragrance of floral, woody and chypre notes.

Sisley Izia La Nuit is available in 30ml RRP $170, 50ml RRP $240 and 100ml RRP $350. www.sisley-paris.com

WELEDA CELEBRATES 100 YEAR ANNIVERSARY

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Weleda has not strayed from its founding philosophy, ‘In harmony with nature and the human being’, since the brand’s inception 100 years ago. It celebrated this incredible milestone with a breakfast at Pocket City Farm, Camperdown. At the event, David Johnston, CEO of Weleda Australia, explained that the brand was founded in 1921 by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, Dutch doctor Ita Wegman and German chemist Oskar Schmiedel on the principles of anthroposophy – a then-groundbreaking idea that a biodynamic approach to health and skincare based on natural ingredients can stimulate the body’s own healing processes. At the event, he spoke about the latest product launches from Weleda and said the brand’s beauty experts had found a way to harness the revitalising

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01. Weleda celebrates 100 years.

02. The Weleda ‘Open Garden’ platform has launched.

03. David Johnston, CEO of Weleda Australia.

04. They new Hydrating range.

and moisturising powers of organic prickly pear cactus in a new facial care series.

The series includes a 24h Hydrating Cream, a 24h Hydrating Lotion, a quickly absorbed Hydrating Eye Gel and an invigorating Hydrating Facial Mist to give the skin a fresh feeling and provide scientifically proven, long-lasting hydration. He explained that each of the four individual formulas increased the moisture content of the skin and make the skin feel weightless and intensely hydrated. Through its digital ‘Open Garden’ platform Weleda invites consumers to experience nature from the palm of their hand, he said. Weleda’s iconic range of moisturisers, serums, bodycare, babycare and natural medicines are sold in more than 50 countries, including Australia. www.weleda.com.au RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |51

OUT & ABOUT

01. Rebecca Hollowood from Revlon briefs Michelle Ruzzene from Retail Beauty and Leigh Campbell from Mamamia on Prevage 2.0.

02. The new Elizabeth Arden Prevage 2.0.

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ELIZABETH ARDEN LAUNCHES PREVAGE 2.0 To celebrate Elizabeth Arden’s newest skincare launch, media were invited to experience a 45-minute consultation and express facial at The Parlour Room, 02.

Clovelly. At the event, Prevage Anti-Aging Daily Serum 2.0 was unveiled. Rebecca Hollowood, Field Sales & Education Manager at Revlon, the parent company of Elizabeth Arden, explained in detail the benefits and clinical study results of the new product. “Prevage 2.0 is all about protecting the skin from environmental aggressors and about slowing down any premature ageing,” she said. “We know up to 80 percent of premature ageing comes from the sun and environmental factors.” Rebecca said the product’s “most iconic ingredient” was still idebenone, which is a fine orange antioxidant powder.

Idebenone was recognised for its skincare benefits and was used in the original Prevage launch 15 years ago, in what was one of the word’s first retail cosmeceuticals.

The iconic serum is now boosted with the addition of 10 powerful ingredients with idebenone to visibly reverse ageing signs and help protect against environmental damage for younger-looking skin. www.elizabetharden.com.au 52| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

BANGN BIRTHDAY BREAKFAST Bangn Body celebrated their second birthday while unveiling two new products at Reign at the QVB. Since launching in 2019, the firming, multi-purpose, natural, vegan and cruelty-free skincare brand targeted at millennials has amassed a cult following on social media and distribution in Mecca Maxima.

Brand founder Priscilla Hajiantoni, who made $8,000 within three weeks of launching, said the “multi-use Yellow Tubes of Goodness” had been so successful because the “effective formulas were backed by science”.

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“Our two new product developments are no different,” he said.

Bangn Body’s new Hydrating Facial Cleanser and Firming & Brightening Beauty Treatment are both multi-purpose and formulated with Australian native botanical extracts that are vegan and cruelty-free and provide incredible benefits to the skin.

“The products are a discovery range for a new way to hydrate,” she told guests over breakfast.

“For the brand hydration is a very key factor and what we do, and our moisturising properties and the innovation that comes with that. We are sticking to our natural, cruelty-free, vegan ethos while focusing on innovation and key ingredients that are super purposeful and results driven, and that haven’t been overused in the industry.”

While the colour yellow is synonymous with the brand and the ‘Yellow Tubes of Goodness’, the new products launched are packaged in a light blue.

Priscilla said environmentally-friendly packaging was high on the agenda for the brand, with the Yellow Tubes of Goodness made from 100 per cent recyclable aluminium ethically made with BPA free lining and eco friendly dyes.

“We aim to be a plastic-free brand that makes an impact,” she said.

“In line with this goal, we wanted to package both products in recyclable glass.

We spent more than 12 months developing custom moulds to ensure the final product was unique, chic and 01. From left Hive HQ Founder and Director original while still staying true to our sustainability ethos.”

Jessy Marshall, Bangn www.bangnbody.com Body Founder Priscilla Hajiantoni, Bangn Body Marketing Manager Georgia Sullivan, Hive HQ Publicist Christian Olson.

02. The brunch was held at Reign at the QVB.

03. The new Bangn Body products on show.

04. Retail Beauty Editor Michelle Ruzzene chats to Beauty Editor at Are Media Australia & New Zealand Elise Wilson.

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OUT & ABOUT

THE JOJOBA COMPANY LAUNCHES NEW PRODUCT The Jojoba Company invited three guests on a press trip to Beresford Farm in Yenda, south western New South Wales. Known for its nutrient-rich soils, the trio were able to experience firsthand how The Jojoba Company is utilising the Riverina’s unique environment to farm the purest jojoba using the finest WadiWadi jojoba beans. Throughout the trip, The Jojoba Company’s commitment to minimising waste and reducing its environmental impact was spoken about by co-Founder Vicki Engsall.

Brand ambassador Leigh Campbell launched The Jojoba Bean Natural Exfoliant for Face and Body on Instagram. “Reducing waste and our carbon footprint is a key goal for The Jojoba Company and innovative product formulations such as these only strengthen our commitment to sustainability,” Vicki said.

Guests were also able to experience the harvest process for themselves, harvesting jojoba beans via the farm’s tractors with farmers Dan Buster and Tavis Kleinsasser. www.thejojobacompany.com.au

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01. Beresford Farm.

02. The jojoba plant.

03. Leigh Campbell and Vicki Engsall. (image @leighacampbell)

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ELLA BACHÉ KICKS OFF DEFENCE+ SKINCARE RANGE To launch Ella Baché’s all new skin barrier protection collection Defence+, the skincare brand held a bespoke Strength and Resilience workout at Barry’s Bootcamp in Sydney’s Surry Hills. Before instructor Molly Kat Gay got everyone’s blood pumping, CEO Pippa Hallas introduced to the range to media and guests. Pippa said her great aunt, Madame Ella Baché, started was a revolutionary cosmetic chemist that started the brand in 1936.

“For me what was so important when I reflect on Ella is that she started the brand in Paris in the 1930s, and that was the most disruptive time in history,” Pippa said. “She went to university and wanted to be a doctor, but unfortunately women weren’t allowed to be doctors in those days.

Ella was a truly modern woman, who was determined, intelligent and ambitious,

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who moved skincare into a new era where skincare was individually tailored based on the skin’s condition at a cellular level.”

National Training Manager Gina Cook then talked through the Defence+ products restorative and protective qualities. “The new products are all about defending the skin’s resilience – strengthening the skin, fortifying the skin and purifying the skin,” she said. “The barrier function is the gateway to our skin’s health, and it can be very easily disrupted.”

Gina said the skin and surrounding environments, including the sun, pollution and blue light, didn’t always get along. Gina said the two new products in the range – the Defence+ Charcoal Micro Exfoliant and the Defence+ Antioxidant Radiance Cream – worked to

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Instructor and influencer Molly Kat Gay. Barry’s Bootcamp in Sydney’s Surry Hills.

Ella Baché National Training Manager Gina Cook.

Ella Baché CEO Pippa Hallas.

The Ella Baché Defence+ Charcoal Micro Exfoliant and the Defence+ Antioxidant Radiance Cream.

reset the skin to its most radiant without parabens, phenoxyethanols, silicone, mineral oil or colouring agents and worked to safeguard the skin against damage and prevent premature ageing.

Post workout, guests were treated to custom activated charcoal smoothies and complimentary facial vouchers to try the new Defend My Resilience facial.

Defence+ products and the Defence+ Treatment are available at Ella Baché Salons, David Jones stores nationwide, with products also available to purchase at www.ellabache.com.au.

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |53

OUT & ABOUT

TOP FRENCH SKINCARE BRAND FILORGA LANDS IN AUSTRALIA

Cosmax Prestige Brands invited beauty media to exclusive launch of Filorga in Australia. Guests were informed about the French skincare brand over an intimate brunch at Ivy Penthouse. Thanh Nguyen Duy, Managing Director at Cosmax, said he was “very 01. excited to introduce Filorga into Australia”. Thanh said it took a lot of time for Cosmax to convince Filorga to expand into Australia and New Zealand, but it was a revolutionary anti-ageing skincare range that needed to be here.

“They are very successful in the world, but Australia was the one piece that was missing,” he said. “We want you to discover how amazing this brand is. I’ve been in the industry for more than 20 years and believe me, this is one brand that ticked every box in terms of effectiveness and relevance to the market.”

Laboratoires Filorga founder Dr Michel Tordjman, a French doctor with a passion for cell biology, addressed the crowd virtually from Paris via video. He said he founded Laboratories Filorga in 1978 “after years of research on skin physiology” 04. and initially the company designed

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and manufactured injectables used by the world’s greatest specialists in aesthetic medicine. Soon after, Medi-Cosmetique was created, a range of anti-ageing skincare formulated with NCEF (New Cellular Encapsulated Factors), with the same active ingredients used in injections extended to a new topical use on the skin. The advanced formula led to the development of the Filorga creams that offered a combination of hyaluronic acid, to hydrate and plump, and 50 ingredients including a combination of vitamins amino acids, minerals, co-enzymes and antioxidants to revitalise the skin.

Anna Swanson, Head of Marketing at Cosmax Prestige Brands Australia, said Filorga was the number one skincare brand in pharmacy in France, and it was in the top three skincare brands in all major markets in Sephora in Europe including France, Italy and Spain. Anna said the brand had also experienced amazing growth in Asia, especially in China. Cosmax distribute more than 30 brands in Australia in New Zealand. Filorga is available exclusively in Myer. www.filorga.cosmax.com.au 01. Media at the exclusive launch of Filorga in Australia.

02. Singer, TV host, model and dancer Erin Holland.

03. Filorga Time-Filler Absolute Wrinkle Correction Cream.

04. Keji Adebeshin, Filorga Junior Brand Manager with influencer Roj Torabi.

REVLON LAUNCHES NEW COLORSTAY LIGHT COVER FOUNDATION Revlon held a poolside to celebrate the launch of the new ColorStay Light Cover Foundation. Held at Kutti Beach House, guests were asked to arrive in their best ‘Hamptons chic’ outfit and sipped on mocktails while taking in the water views. All attendees were then colour matched to their correct shade and given a pair of sunglasses to combat the sun’s rays. Revlon Marketing Manager Amy Kingon Smith addressed the crowd 01. and said the ColorStay brand foundation was “the number on Australian brand in foundations”. “As many of you would know, SPF is a big deal in Australia, and we’re really excited that this foundation from ColorStay has an SPF 30,” she said. “This is the highest

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SPF among mass brands compared to other brands in the pharmacy channel.

We’re also very excited about this launch because it is light cover but long wear, and normally with light wear you have to reapply, which you don’t have to with this.”

The foundation has been formulated as a light cover, natural finish foundation and contains concentrated pomegranate to deliver 56% more hydration, according to Revlon. The broadspectrum SPF 30 protection offers 12-hour wear for a no makeup, makeup look. Available in eight shades, the foundation retails for $29.95 at Chemist Warehouse. All images Esteban La Tessa. www.revlonanz.com

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01. Retail Beauty Editor Michelle Ruzzene is shade matched at the event.

02. The new ColorStay Light Cover Foundation.

03. The Revlon team from left - Brand Manager Revlon Face & Beauty Tools Sophia Ye, Marketing Manager Amy Kingon-Smith, Senior Brand Manager Laura Middleton and Digital Executive Monica Wojnarowska.

04. Former Married At First Sight contestant Jules Robinson.

To coincide with World Earth Day, held on April 22 around the globe, Klorane hosted a Seed Collection Trip for media to the Botanic Gardens in Mount Annan to raise awareness and assist with Australian conservation.

Guests were transported to the gardens, where they were met by Dr Karen Sommerville, the Research Scientist in charge of the Rainforest Conservation Project.

She explained that rainforests covered just two per cent of the earth’s surface yet were home to about half of the world’s five to 10 million plant and animal species, and that they also played a major role in stabilising the world’s climate.

Janis McNicholas, Pierre Fabre Group ANZ Training Manager, also addressed the guests and explained the company’s dedication to protecting biodiversity, especially as nature was still the main source of inspiration for its Klorane and Avene brands.

She said protecting the environment had always been a “duty” of the French company.

Attendees were then shown the process of seedbanking by Dr Sommerville, which is the cutting and storage of suitable seeds, to contribute to the survival of some of our most threatened species.

The seeds are house in the Australian PlantBank, located within the Australian Botanic Garden, which also acts as a science and research facility of the Royal Botanic Gardens and Domain Trust.

It houses seed and tissue culture collections that provide an insurance policy against extinction of native plants in the wild, Dr Sommerville said.

Guests were given a tour of the seed vault at PlantBank, which is one of the most biodiverse places on the planet, holding seed collections of many of the 25,000 plant species that occur in Australia.

“These seed and plant collections are used by scientists to understand how such species grow and interact in their habitats, and how they can be best conserved,” Dr Sommerville said .

“They are also used for large-scale restoration work and the development of species for the horticulture industry.”

After the seed vault, guests were then

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OUT & ABOUT

KLORANE HOSTS SEED COLLECTION TRIP TO COINCIDE WITH EARTH DAY

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01. Janis McNicholas, Pierre Fabre Group ANZ Training Manager.

02. Dr Karen Sommerville, the Research Scientist in charge of the Rainforest Conservation Project, displays x-rays of plants and seeds.

03. Collecting leaves and seeds for banking.

04. Dr Karen Sommerville jots down seed

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details with Jordyn Christensen from Centennial Beauty.

05. The Plant Bank.

06. Dr Karen Sommerville, Retail Beauty Editor Michelle Ruzzene and Rose Garnett from Gritty Pretty collect seeds.

07. The Seed Vault.

08. The germination process in action.

09. Once stored in liquid nitrogen, seeds can be kept for unlimited periods.

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given a tour of the long term cold room facilities for storage of seeds, a drying room, incubators and seed processing and testing laboratory facilities.

The not-for-profit Klorane Botanical Foundation in Australia is advancing its mission of Protect, Explore and Share.

The foundation has established initiatives in 22 countries around the world, and educated more than half a million children about plants and planted more than 100,000 trees to preserve natural ecosystems.

Klorane Botanical Foundation’s investment supports: • the rainforest conservation program that uses world class science to protect Australia’s rainforest species • the collection and conservation of NSW threatened species • ongoing training in conservation techniques for the scientists and their collaborators • sharing of research achievements and expertise in the conservation of Australian plant biodiversity globally www.klorane.com

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RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |55

OUT & ABOUT

LUSH LAUNCHES MOTHER’S DAY RANGE, UNVEILS NEW RECYCLING SCHEME 01.

POP-UP FRAGRANCE EVENT FOR KATE SPADE NEW YORK EDP Kate Spade launched in 1993 with a collection of six essential handbags.

“Today, the brand is a global life and style house with handbags, ready-to-wear, jewellery, footwear, gifts, home décor and more,” said Interparfum Brand Manager Sara Phanekham, at the Kate Spade New York EDP fragrance launch. The launch was held at a Kate Spade pop-up in Westfield Sydney, Pitt Street Mall. Sara addressed media and guests at the event, saying that the brand “has always stood for optimistic femininity and has a unique style”. Perfumer Marie Salamagne, from Firmenich, a private Swiss company in the fragrance business. said the fragrance paid tribute to the colourful and carefree nature of a wild strawberry.

“My objective was to capture the unique scent of this lush and extremely elegant red fruit to feature joyful femininity, sublimated by gorgeous rose essence, the queen of flowers,” she said in a statement.

According to Salamagne, the sparkling top note of citrusy bergamot combined with sweet wild strawberry bursts with optimism and happiness. The intense floral heart of rose essence and freesia adds a fresh femininity so characteristic of the Kate Spade New York Woman.

The base note of ambroxan and cashmeran adds a 02. voluptuous woody 01. The Kate Spade pop up at touch to the Westfield Sydney. fragrance, 02. Each guest took home an engraved bottle. instilling 03. Renae Leith from Renae’s it with world with Retail Beauty depth and Editor Michelle Ruzzene.

04. Model Francesca Hung and confidence. actress Georgia-May Davis.

At the 03. event, guests were given an engraved bottle of the new scent to take home as well as a bespoke Koi dessert which complemented the fragrance.

The fragrance is distributed in Australia by Cosmax Prestige Brands. Images from the event taken by Esteban La Tessa.

04. www.katespade.com.au 56| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

Recycling has always been a focus for Lush.

Under their current recycling scheme, customers can bring back five empty containers and swap them for a fresh face mask. However, on Earth Day, held on April 22 around the globe, the company announced is newlook recycling scheme for 2021: Bring It Back.

01.

The new recycling scheme, available from May 10, entitles Lush customers in Australia and New Zealand to exchange any individual Qualifying Lush Packaging item for $1 towards their instore purchase at the same time.

“As part of Lush’s mission to ‘Leave the world Lusher than we found it’, all shops will be inviting customers to bring back any full-sized Lush plastic packaging to their local Lush shop to be recycled as part of their fresh new packaging returns scheme,” PR manager Sonia Chiarelli said.

“For each plastic Lush item returned, customers will receive a $1 deposit to spend on their Lush basket that day. The initiative will launch in Lush stores across Australia and New Zealand in May 2021.”

Guests were given a heads up about the new program at a Mother’s Day breakfast, held in Sydney. Invitees were asked to bring a mother or mother-figure in their life to a breakfast, held at Reign at the QVB, and product showcase, held at Lush QVB. At the event, the Lush’s Mother’s Day 2021 range was unveiled.

“When saying thank you is all important this year, gift yourself or someone you love one of these limited-edition, vegan treats to relax and unwind with,” Sonia said.

The collection showcased included a range of limitededition Bath Bombs, Bubble Bars, Shower Scrubs, Gift Sets and more. www.au.lush.com

02.

01.

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Mother’s Day Limited Edition Mother Of Pearl Bath Bomb The Mother’s Day breakfast was held at Reign at the QVB. Guests at the Lush QVB flagship store.

Guests experience firsthand some Lush magic at the QVB store.

Shelf Life

New perfumes and fragrances for winter and beyond

Photo Credit: Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au

Hermetica Peonypop Eau De Parfum www.agencedeparfum.com.au Obvious Un Musc Eau De Parfum www.agencedeparfum.com.au Goldfield & Banks Australia Silky Woods Perfume Concentrate www.goldfieldandbanks.com Jo Malone Yellow Hibiscus Cologne www.elcompanies.com Glasshouse Fragrances Sunset in Capri White Peach & Sea Breeze Eau De Parfum www.glasshousefragrances.com Hugo Boss Alive Eau De Parfum www.coty.com Palm Beach Collection Sunshine Scented Soy Candle www.palmbeachcollection.com.au Melissa Allen I Have Confidence www.melissaallenmoodessentials.com Ecoya Baltic Amber Diffuser www.ecoya.com.au Shop Room Fragrance www.deciem.com Lumira Terra Australis www.atelierlumira.com Paco Rabanne Olympea Eau De Parfum Florale www.puig.com Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle La Parfum www.puig.com Trussardi Parfum www.escentialbrands.com

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Fragrance figures

and insights

Fragrances of the World Communication & Evaluation Consultant Clayton Ilolahia on the latest global fragrance trends.

FIRST QUARTER RESULTS REVEAL THE ONGOING CHALLENGE

Pre-Covid-19 fragrance launches were increasing year on year. The downturn we’ve seen is a force majeure that has many brands reassessing their future. Fragrances of the World’s latest industry report shows the extent to which the global pandemic has impacted growth.

Launches for the first quarter of 2021 are down 35 per cent compared to last year’s pre-pandemic quarter. With most countries yet to complete their Covid-19 vaccination programme, and travel restrictions and lockdowns continuing to impact retail business, this decline was expected. By the third quarter of 2020, the figure exceeded a decline of more than 40 per cent, so we are now seeing improvement. Looking at the number of launches by distribution, niche and luxury started the year strong, a positive sign given how much niche fragrances now contribute to the annual number of launches. Prestige launches for the first quarter were below average, but we forecast the numbers will increase as the year progresses. Less assured are the number of launches we are tracking for Lifestyle and Mass. While these products remain significant, fragrance is rapidly returning to its status as a luxury product. We anticipate limited edition

launches, often linked to a specific upscale department store, to be lower than usual until physical retail returns to normal.

For now, there is a focus on quality over quantity, with significant launches like Hermès’ new men’s pillar H24, a fragrance that presents an unconventional masculinity with its use of modern green notes. After a challenging year, fragrances that evoke serenity and connection to nature are popular themes in 2021 launches.

2020 FIGURES AND INSIGHTS

Last year global fragrance launches declined, finishing more than 30 per cent down compared to 2019. There was an increase in launches in the fourth quarter of 2020, but the global pandemic impact on the fragrance industry was evident.

Although the 2020 statistics are stark, conversations we have had with industry colleagues demonstrate the incredible optimism and resilience of the fragrance industry. Early results for 2021 are now showing signs of improvement in areas.

The results are varied when looking at launch numbers by distribution (niche, luxury, prestige etc). Cancellation of annual exhibitions like Esxence, Pitti Fragranze and Cannes TFWA, seen as launchpads for new fragrances, had a noticeable impact on niche launches. Small independent brands

Total Year Jan-Mar 2021 Growth Jan-Mar 2020

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Total

Launches

588 -35%

899

Year Jan-Dec 2020 Growth Jan-Dec 2019

Launches

2619 -30%

3727

were more cautious during the pandemic, with many postponing launches or focusing on other products like hand sanitiser, or product extensions of existing fragrances.

When the world is under economic stress, consumers often spend disposable income on luxury items that have a timeless appeal rather than fast consumer goods. This is one explanation as to why luxury and prestige launches were least impacted, and the recession of lifestyle and mass was much higher. Another explanation is, repeating the point made in our first quarter 2021 analysis, independent of the pandemic, fragrance is realigning itself with luxury. Lifestyle and mass fragrances are important to the industry, yet we are seeing designer brands increasing their focus on creating luxury collections and niche, which typically represents a higher retail value.

2020 Top 20 Ingredients

*dominant note

Total

Musks

309

1007

Rose

234

685

Patchouli

203

666

Sandalwood

188

631

Bergamot

163

697

Vanilla

161

563

Jasmine

156

488

Cedarwood

143

489

Amber

134

515

Oud

131

219

Orange blossom

125

236

Vetiver

105

389

Iris (orris)

91

239

Pink pepper

86

252

Tonka bean

85

293

Lavender

84

205

Mandarin

81

298

Leather

80

210

Cardamom

73

247

Saffron

73

176

FRAGRANCE TRENDS

Analysing the most used ingredients in 2020 launches, we see they align with the four most popular fragrance families for 2020 – Floral (21%), Woods (13.1%), Floral Oriental (12.9%) and Woody Oriental (12.6%).

You might expect trends in ingredients to develop quickly but our data shows that trends often take years to develop and peak, like the rise of oud fragrances or pink pepper being used to enliven top notes. The most popular fragrance families of 2020 are consistent across the past five years.

TRENDING IN 2021

50 Shades of Green A new colour palette of green notes has brought a calming, natural theme to fragrances launched during the pandemic.

Popular notes include galbanum, lentisque, ivy, herbaceous flora, jungle leaves, cucumber, and green mandarin.

Example: Enclave by Amouage Notes of spearmint and cardamom evoke the deep freshness of Musandam’s fjords in Oman. This cool green opening is closed with warm notes of amber and leather.

Abstract Fruit Niche and luxury brands are reshaping consumer views of fruity notes, commonly associated with mass market fragrances, functional cleaning and personal care products. These new, unconventional fruity notes feel sophisticated and opulent.

Example: Étoile Filante by Louis Vuitton Osmanthus’ fruity facets of apricot, cassis and delicate peach skin are further enhanced with a note of sun-ripened strawberry.

Powder Puff A renaissance in soft floral fragrances that smell comforting and feminine.

Popular notes include orris, almond, rice powder, white musk and ambrette seed. Modern synthetic notes allow these fragrances to smell nostalgic without feeling dated.

Example: Magnifying Musk

by Bulgari A magnification of ambrette seed and modern musks leads to a warm and sultry perfume that feels intimate and embracing.

While 2021 launches do not match the pre-pandemic figures we are used to, this year has started with an energy and

busyness we missed in 2020. Brands are pushing forward, and we predict an incline in launches as the year progresses. Trends we predict are worth watching in 2021 are fragrances that align with consumer values of sustainability and ethical sourcing, green fragrances that speak to the importance of self-care and mental wellbeing, and fragrances that help people feel more connected to nature.

WIKIPARFUM PIONEERS A NEW WAY TO SELECT YOUR NEXT PERFUME

One of the important projects our founder Michael Edwards worked on in 2020 was a partnership with leading perfume and cosmetics company Puig. In 2019, Puig’s head office in Barcelona noticed a downturn in fragrance sales, yet they were puzzled when their research revealed how passionate consumers were about the world of fragrances. Many online communities and blog sites existed where consumers received and exchanged knowledge about fragrances, but Puig had concerns over the accuracy of content being shared.

Puig set out to create a site where lovers

of fragrances could build a community, and knowledge about fragrances shared in an informative and entertaining way. Naturally, people might have expected the site to favour Puig’s own brands, but nothing was farther from the truth.

With its sight set firmly on building a sustainable future for fragrances, the project wasn’t seen as a marketing opportunity, rather it was about investing in a way to help consumers be more educated and continue to build their passion for fragrances. In the long term this could only be good for sales, but the new site had to be entirely impartial, and the information needed to be accurate.

Puig asked their perfumers where they sourced their fragrance data from; the unanimous response was ‘Michael Edwards’ Fragrances of the World’. A partnership was soon formed, and the result was www.wikiparfum.fr where Michael Edwards’ database powers the site with real-time information.

The public have complete access to Wikiparfum for free. Favourite fragrances can be recorded in a profile that the site uses as a basis for fragrance recommendations. Fragrance matching has been the core of Michael Edwards’ business since he started Fragrance of the World in 1983. Now pairing technology and artificial intelligence with the matching algorithms Michael spent decades testing, Wikiparfum is one example of how Fragrances of the World’s work is brought to life in an interactive digital environment.

Users also run complex searches by ingredient, search by fragrance or brand, and see information on thousands of fragrances. Results display a fragrance with Michael Edwards’ classification, olfactory notes, description and perfumer name.

Beautifully presented, Wikiparfum is a fantastic resource we hope everyone will explore and enjoy for themselves.

Clayton works in communication and evaluation for Fragrances of the World where he assists industry guru Michael Edwards with the collection and evaluation of fragrance data from around the world. He is responsible for the communication of data insights and trends from the company’s award-winning database. Clayton has over 10 years’ experience in fragrance journalism, learning and development and luxury retail. He has completed numerous summer schools at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery and has a passion for creative perfumery.

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |59

AINSLIE WALKER TALKS

Niche

Fragrance News

Winter Fragrance Update From a new, stylish showroom for Agence de Parfum to the launch of Botanical Series from Goldfield & Banks, here is the latest roundup of happenings in the niche fragrance world.

Fortunately for Australian businesses, things are mostly back on track, however collectively the niche perfumery community are missing the ability to travel. Important yearly stop offs including niche fragrance fairs Esxence in Milan and Pitti Fragrance in Florence have been halted. For buyers, evaluators, trainers, perfumers and Australian fragrance brand owners, being so remote can be awkward when selling in brands, experiencing new brands and staying in touch with customers, suppliers and distributers.

Delays in couriering niche brands to Australia and distribution issues continue to make launch dates difficult to set, however, slowly but surely the world is opening up and new fragrances are getting through customs and the ‘out-of-stocks’ are coming back onto shelf. Distributors are advising stockists to order early for Christmas to avoid missing out. Raw materials for manufacturing are still in short supply, freight delayed. Order now to insure you are maximising the festive season.

PEONY MELBOURNE

Peony Haute Parfumerie in Melbourne exclusively launches Les Bains Guerbois in mid-2021. The collection of nine gorgeously 60| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

packaged fragrances certainly brings with it chic and luxury Parisian vibes to our shores. Les Bains is a 5-star boutique Hotel in Paris, complete with a nightclub and a ‘want everything’ concept store which collectively has drawn in avant-garde and luxury travellers for 130 years - think David Bowie, Karl Lagerfield and more! As usual, Peony Haute Parfumerie buyer and owner Jill Timms is up with the trends and hard-to-find brands, despite not being able to travel for the past two years.

More information www.peonymelbourne.com.au AGENCE DE PARFUM

Distributors Agence de Parfum invited press to their impressive new Redfern showroom in March (see images), unveiling a number of brands launching in 2021 including: Memo Paris, Xerjoff, Matiere Premiere and Obvious. Obvious continues the trend of brands bringing in elements of sustainability and affordable luxury. The brand of seven fragrances was founded by celebrated industry professional David Frossard and the packaging features recycled glass and cork lids made from the offcuts of wine corks. New fragrances from existing brands include La Route De Soie, a collection of seven fragrances inspired by The Silk Road from Ormonde Jayne, Passage D’Enfer Extréme from L’Artisan Parfumeur, Atomica from Robert Piguet, Bois Blanc from Frapin, Supergloss from Costume National, Golden Oud from Mizensir, Juicy Flowers and Midnight Gold from Mancera and The Diamond Collection - Diamond Flowers and Diamond Rose - from Montale, Saskia from Grandiflora Fragrances, Liquide

T2M

FRAGRANCE NEWS

from Liquides Imaginaires, Désirée from Rance, Peonypop from Hermetica and Santal Volcanique and Osmanthe Kōdoshān from Maison Crivelli.

Congratulations to the whole Agence de Parfum team for continuing to bring in niche fragrances through these challenging times and on the beautiful showroom which encapsulates them perfectly.

More information www.agencedeparfum.com.au

Distributors T2M launched a new fragrance from Essential Parfums, Bois Imperial, by perfumer Quentin Bisch in May. Carner Barcelona also released their new Bestial collection, a trio of intense and dark perfumes – gothic and exotic Felino, Drakon and Bestium. Carner also added to the collection, hair perfumes of top selling Tardes, Latin Lover, Bo-Bo and Costarela. Limited edition candles Tardes, Cuirs and Latin Lover are back in stock. Besoi Beach launched Beso Pasion, a Mediterranean fig scent. New brands launching in 2021 include Crayon, from the creators of Agonist. With a lean towards sustainability, ‘no harmful ingredients’ and price points of under $150 this brand is targeting an everyday/all access entry point into niche perfumes.

Maison Matine Beyond Paris also continues the trend to make niche perfumery accessible, social and fresh. With six limited edition scents created to be able to be worn by ‘everyone and anyone’.

With RRP under $100 the Australian market is sure to lap these up.

WA:IT offers clean skincare and one fragrance, Hito. The brand fuses both Japanese and Italian cultures and is carbon negative and sustainable, made in Italy. The fragrance incorporates some aromatherapeutic benefits and features a natural heart of fig leaf.

More information www.t2mfashion.com

Obvious continues the trend of brands bringing in elements of sustainability and affordable luxury.

GOLDFIELD & BANKS

Mid 2021 sees the launch of Botanical Series from Australia’s own Goldfield & Banks featuring exclusive raw materials where the seeds have been imported and harvested in Australia. The first perfume in this collection is Silky Woods. Goldfield & Banks are the first perfume brand to celebrate the use of Australia’ s very first organic and sustainable Agarwood oil from the Daintree Rainforest. This launch showcases Australia’s botanical research and development in the International Perfume Industry. Silky Woods features notes from the agarwood including suede, vanilla, tobacco leaf with the addition of saffron, incense, ylang ylang and Australian sandalwood.

More information: www.goldfieldandbanks.com OLFACTORY ART

Craft ACT hosted glassblower Mark Eliot’s exhibition Essence of Cloud from March 25 through to May 22. The exhibition featured 11 scents and a drinkable tonic by Scentsmith. My scents (Ainslie Walker’s) were housed in Mark’s incredible glass bottles, sold as sets, singularly and as necklaces. The scents depict the travels in 1880 of a travelling laboratory, which collected essences from clouds over various continents. The Essence of Cloud Apothecary Box from H.M.S Lucy features all the scents and tonic housed in Mark’s handblown, sandblasted borosilicate bottles encased in an aged mahogany wood box.

More information: www.craftact.org.au RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |61

Magic

Matiere

Growing up with family of perfumers, Aurélien Guichard was always destined to be a successful scent creator - he created Love in Paris for Nina Ricci and Acqua Allegoria Anisia Bella for Guerlain while he was still studying. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the Creative Perfumer and Co-Founder of Matiere Premiere to talk all things fragrance.

HOW AND WHEN DID YOUR PASSION FOR FRAGRANCES BEGIN?

YOU’VE CREATED SOME FAMOUS FRAGRANCES – WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITES?

I come from of a family of perfumers. We’ve been creating fragrances and growing flowers for perfumery for seven generations. I have amazing, scented childhood memories from rose, jasmine and verbena harvests at my grandparents’ farm. And I was lucky to grow up surrounded by artists, with a perfumer father and a sculptress mother. But my first lifechanging scented experience occurred when I was still a teenager, at the end of a dinner with family friends. As I helped one of the ladies put her coat back on, she exhaled a scent so endearing, I immediately saw her in a completely new way and began to understand what desire could be. It struck me that day that there was magic in certain perfumes.

I have a special attachment to the fragrances that embody the collaboration and relationship I have developed with such designers as Narciso Rodriguez and Issey Miyake, whose vision and ideas make these creations unique. There are also the fragrances that embody strong ideas and special moments in my life. For example, I created Eros for Versace at a time when I was travelling a lot to the region of Italy where they produce citron (which we call cédrat in French). I was imbued with the beauty of this Italian region, with the creative universe of an Italian designer, with the Italian art de vivre and culture.

WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB? My first job was at Givaudan, one of the major fragrance manufacturers. I wasn’t even a confirmed perfumer when I signed my first two creations, Love in Paris for Nina Ricci and Acqua Allegoria Anisia Bella for Guerlain.

I learned that there were people and companies audacious enough to trust a young perfumery school graduate, rather than a wellknown, established perfumer. I learned that anything was possible in our profession, thanks to fruitful collaborations. It made me want to work exclusively with and for the most beautiful houses, who show great respect for the art of perfumery and its traditions.

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WHAT ARE YOUR SOURCES OF INSPIRATION WHEN CREATING A FRAGRANCE? People are my major source of inspiration. I am also driven by my personal aesthetic preferences - I am not a big fan of sugary/fruity notes in fragrances for example. For Matiere Premiere, my unique source of inspiration is the beauty, as I perceive it, of the natural ingredients which perfumers have access to every day to create their compositions. I never stop marvelling at the beauty of these raw materials. I want to highlight it in our fragrances, to make it visible, readable, understandable, to make it accessible and to share it.

WHAT MAKES A ‘GOOD’ FRAGRANCE? First and foremost, it’s the quality of the ingredients. It’s what allows a fragrance to project and perform.

HOW WAS MATIERE PREMIERE BORN? Matiere Premiere is the result of an entrepreneurs’ adventure.

It all began in Grasse in 2016, when I decided to grow my own ingredients and founded an organic Rose Centifolia farm. Then I had the privilege to meet my two co-founders, with whom I shared the same vision, and it became a collective adventure.

Matiere Premiere is a French perfumer’s house that offers one of the most qualitative perfumery in the world in a humble way, by sharing what is truly beautiful in the art of perfumery and the daily life and craft of a Perfumer: a direct, emotional contact with the most beautiful natural raw materials from around the world. We build each fragrance around one central natural ingredient, used in high dosage. We want to highlight its most beautiful facets, thanks to contemporary formulations that will leave an unforgettable emotional imprint. Our creations are available in the very same 6ml bottles every perfumer uses to evaluate new compositions. It comes with a screw-on atomiser, because we want our clients to experience the same gesture a perfumer makes when he is convinced by the smell on a blotter, and wishes to wear the fragrance and evaluate further on skin.

WHAT DOES A TYPICAL DAY INVOLVE? My weekdays are pretty untypical, as I am involved in three different activities. Through growing my own raw materials, I am in contact with nature in the South of France every week. In that same week I will have work sessions at Matiere Premiere in Paris, near Opéra Garnier, and I will create for couture houses in my lab at Takasago, near place de l’Etoileor travel the world (virtually for the moment) to present these creations or meet with designers. The only constant activity in my schedule is formulating, wherever I am. I think about perfume creation, I’m in search of the right compositions 24/7, day and - sometimes - night!

WHERE DO YOU SEE THE FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY HEADED? I see a pretty diverse industry, with not only one direction. There are several ways to create and offer fragrances. The one we chose for Matiere Premiere is to embody the most beautiful aspects of perfumery as we see it. We want to shine a light on a beautiful craft, on the most beautiful natural ingredients, on inherited processes that enhance quality – such as allowing fragrances to age before bottling,

not putting synthetic coloring agents, using one particular ingredient in high dosage. We also believe in developing strong relationships between our perfume house and raw material producers. You can’t make a perfume without raw materials.

WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST ‘FAILURE’, AND WHAT DID YOU LEARN FROM IT?

FRAGRANCE INTERVIEW

Then, a good fragrance is the one that will leave an emotional imprint, thanks to its unique character, its sillage and persistence.

When you are a perfumer, many of your projects ‘fail’ so to speak - each time the perfume you worked on is not the one eventually selected by the house you created it for. What you learn is how to start again from a blank page each time, relentlessly. How to find the desire to get back at it, not for the sake of expressing your own ideas, but for the sake of putting your craft at the service of a house, a designer, of collaborating with them. What I love about Matiere Premiere is that it is a field for me to express my own ideas through our shared vision of a highly qualitative perfumery, shining a light on raw materials and perfumery know-how, in a contemporary way that will hopefully renew people’s desire to wear perfumes.

WHO ARE THE THREE PEOPLE WHO HAVE BEEN THE MOST INFLUENTIAL TO YOU? I am fortunate to have more than three people in that category: my artist parents, my farmer grandfather, my co-founders at Matiere Premiere, creative entrepreneurs that have given me the will to create a business of my own such as Issey Miyake, Narciso Rodriguez, Diane von Furstenberg etc. I also play field hockey in the National French Team. This sport has not only enabled me to meet with extraordinary people, including many Australians who are great field hockey players, but also influenced me with strong values of teamwork, trustworthiness, inclusiveness – and believing that anything is possible when you give yourself the means to achieve it.

WHAT IS THE ONE COMMON MYTH ABOUT LUXURY FRAGRANCE THAT YOU WANT TO DEBUNK? That the most beautiful fragrances can only be found in the confidential, niche collections. There are absolute masterpieces signed by big houses. And that perfumers create with their nose!

Perfumes are works from the mind and heart.

WHAT DOES YOUR DAILY ‘FRAGRANCE ROUTINE’ LOOK LIKE? I work on and smell about 50 different compositions and trials every day.

And every day, I select between two and five of them that I will wear, to see how I feel about them and if I get any comments. I also ask people around me to wear them, to see how they evolve and develop on them.

We try to offer that same freedom at Matiere Premiere, to wear your selection according to your mood, your taste, the time of the day, the occasion, the season.

Matiere Premiere is distributed in Australia by Libertine Parfumerie.

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1. Melbourne host, Hamish McLachlan 2. Mocktail cart using ANC’s Marine Collagen 3. Natalie Roser, model and founder of Rose and Bare 4. Hamish with MAFS stars Sarah & Michelle, Kendra from How Communications (middle) and Vanessa (right) 5. Sydney’s breakfast smoothie cart using ANC’s Marine Collagen 6. Jessica Yue, Founder & CEO of Polaris Media, posing with ANC’s Marine Collagen products

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Nourish Your

Inner Glow

6.

ANC, Australia’s leading vitamin supplier has developed a unique, science-backed range of collagen products to help nourish your glow from the inside-out.

For many of us, feeling good and getting the most out of life is something we strive for.

Australian NaturalCare (ANC) is Australia’s leading direct supplier of supplements and superfoods and is the go-to for health and wellbeing lovers.

Their range comprises over 100 products and are all exclusively made in Australia, “which means the quality is second to none” says Jerome, ANC’s Global Marketing Manager.

The newest additions to their product portfolio are Marine Collagen Ultra and Marine Collagen Plus Minerals, containing ingredients backed by science to offer optimal results on hair, skin, nails and beyond.

Marine collagen products are gaining popularity for beautiful skin, long hair and strong nails, however many do not contain the necessary nutritional cofactors that ANC use, to offer the best results possible.

“We can think of collagen as bricks, providing the structural foundation for our bodies,” ANC’s Naturopath & Brand Executive Vanessa explains.

“Bricks need cement however, to reinforce

structure. This is why we’ve added specific nutrients to act as the important ‘cement’ to not only help you get the best out of the supplemental collagen, but also the collagen our bodies naturally produce.”

Thanks to the therapeutic doses of minerals like zinc, Marine Collagen Plus Minerals also supports healthy immune system function and overall wellbeing, going beyond hair, skin and nail benefits.

ANC use hydrolysed collagen in their entire marine collagen range.

To celebrate the launch of their new marine collagen range, ANC hosted two events in Sydney and Melbourne.

Guests were invited to enjoy a breakfast at the Ivy Sunroom in Sydney, sipping smoothies made from the collagen products, before sitting down with Alexandra Nea for a personalised illustration.

In Melbourne, hors d’oeuvres and collagen mocktails were served at Glasshaus Inside, with personalised illustrations from Mads Francis and Sarah Darby.

Australian sports broadcaster Hamish McLachlan attended the Melbourne launch as the MC, telling plenty of jokes that kept the guests giggling and smiling.

Mark, ANC’s General Manager spoke about the history of the company and the pleasure he has of helping over 100,000 customers on their journey to good health.

Mark says the Marine Collagen Plus Minerals formulation “is the best in the marketplace and we are taking this message to the world.”

ANC’s Vanessa, Mark and Jerome

For any enquiries, contact Jerome: jeromef@ausnaturalcare.com.au a-n-c.com

@ausnaturalcare

ANC – Live Well. Every Day

Mind over mouth

Matters

Have you ever seen a blue slushie melted? I have.

It was sitting on a riverside path, discarded, the morning after the night before. Contemplating that this is actually a drink almost put me into a head spin. The bright blue colour implies a kind of metallic taste of pure toxicity. I can’t believe people pay to drink this. OK so now I have probably lost the blue slushie drinking segment of our readership but I’ll press on.

I’ve been thinking about what passes our lips.

Our mouth is not a one-way path in and down … sipping fine champagne, gobbling up gooey chocolate fudge brownies…and swigging blue slushies. Stuff comes out of our mouths and passes our lips into the world.

And it is this direction I am paying attention to. What passes our lips and goes out into the world? What WORDS pass our lips and are delivered to the atmosphere around us?

Do you have a diligent gatekeeper for your outpouring gob? You might like to think you have until a driver cuts you up on the road or you hit your thumb with a hammer. All manner of expletives and blame can spill out unchecked by your gatekeeper who turned his back for just one moment. Or maybe he feels your pain and passes these words with justification. “That idiot just stepped out into the road without looking. They deserve to be yelled at!”

Imagine this vitriolic vocabulary had a hue. Let’s say blue, to keep with the theme.

We could see the air turn blue as we cussed and blinded and it might trigger us to cool it, calm down and watch our words. But our words cannot be seen as a colour. Out they go past our lips into the air that others breathe in.

66| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

Love Appreciation Gorgeous Kind Good Please & Thank You Nice Pretty …and always: Yummy

Be the change you wish to see in the world – Mahatma Gandhi

HEALTH & WELLNESS

Words to play with in your everyday interactions

With so much self-help and wellmeaning messages of inspirational wisdom being spoken to us and at us we know the power of words.

From ‘no’ and ‘enough’ to ‘I love you’ and ‘it’s a boy’ words can empower us, stop us, make us cry and bring on side-splitting giggles.

Listening to the news and comments on social media today, however, leaves me speechless.

I find myself thinking: “I cannot believe what I’ve just heard someone say.” Of course, disbelieving our ears has been the case since we got our tongues around language, so maybe it’s the eons of inherited generations that’s leaving me withered with what people can say. But geez, some stuff-and-nonsense does come out of their mouths whether they are a preacher, prosecutor or politician.

These words are then out in the public domain. They’ve passed the lips of their originator. They come laden with the feelings of the person who said them. If they’re angry or damning or revolting or hurtful or untrue they foul the mouth of the speaker, foul the air in which they land and infect those they’re spoken to or around. If you overhear someone at work slagging off their partner, or you’re in the company of someone spouting off about an issue that far from aligns with your values or ethics, it’s mighty uncomfortable and your inner voice has a lot to say to you about it in the privacy of your own mind.

On the contrary when you hear compassion being spoken, loving words, kind words, encouraging comments, memories and musings of a life well spent, you feel heart-warmed and inspired.

As Mahatma Gandhi’s most quoted quote goes: ‘Be the change you wish to see in the world’, we can all be a beacon of good words, a lighthouse of ‘niceness’, a mirror for appreciation.

When was the last time you paid a compliment? Our industry’s Beauty Advisors will be well versed in the power of a genuine compliment. Not only is it lovely to give, passing the pleasant words past our lips, it is truly lovely to see someone’s face appreciate your nice words. So often we’re shy or self-effacing about receiving a compliment but when it happens to you it’s worth smiling and acknowledging the gift of these special words when they are authentically said.

Realising the power of words, we can work their magic within us. From the

minute we wake up we can think good words. Our minds can be negatively geared caused by all manner of conditions like stress, poor sleep quality, low blood sugar.

As we wake so too does our inner gremlin. But if you can be one step ahead of him you can change the way you feel as you bring your day to life. It’s a conscious practice which you can set up the evening before. Go to bed reminding yourself of how you want to start the following day. I say ‘wake up get up’…before the self-criticism filters in, the not-enoughs, the dread of the workday ahead, that Monday morning feeling on a Wednesday, the gloom and doom. Get up before the inner dialogue wakes up. Before those negative wisps whip up a saga of past mistakes and loss. Even if you get back into bed with a delicious coffee or a yummy chai and you can indulge in a little reading or meditating, the ‘wake up get up’ can break the ruminating that comes from just lying in bed…thinking. As my mother used to quote her mother: “A little of what you like does you the world of good”. Your morning cuppa made and drunk with gratitude becomes a self-loving ritual.

Cultivating a practice of appreciation first thing in the morning gently softens the mind which in turn tames the troubled tongue. When you feel thankful, generous or kind it’s hard to speak badly of someone; pretty impossible to raise the F-word and easy to be inspired to praise, compliment and sing.

Whether you’re working on counter, in an office or on the road, when you have appreciation in your heart rising up to your mouth, the words that pass your lips will make you proud. Be genuine, authentic and have fun. And watch your mouth’s gatekeeper take a hike now he’s knee deep in loveliness and got nothing to do.

Our task is to be a good human being, and speak as one.

Namaste my friends.

Andrea x

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CAN’T BE TOO CHOOSY Who you are today is the sum total of your choices. As Jean-Paul Sartre said, “we are our choices” those that you made, those that were made for you, your response and your perspective on the experience.

Sometimes in certain situations we feel “choiceless” but that too is a choice. It is your perception on each experience that you can choose.

Roy T Bennett wrote in The Light in the Heart, “You cannot control the behaviour of others, but you can always choose how you respond to it.”

When we allow the feedback from each choice to amount to our learning no matter the outcome, we take power out of trying to make the “right” decision. It does not matter if you make the “right” or “wrong” decision if you always allow yourself to learn from each experience.

One hack to having favourable perspectives is gratitude journaling. Focusing on the positive encourages our mind to view more of our experiences as positive.

Difficult choices often leave us in a position where we can feel stuck between two opposing outcomes. Next time you are faced with a difficult decision choose to 68| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

change your perspective on the decision rather than the situation itself. The best choice is often the one that is more uncomfortable in the short term. Such times as when tough love is appropriate… or admitting the truth to ourselves, and saying ‘no’.

A second technique I have recently been using is the following: 1. Start by visualising taps in the bottom of your feet 2. Imagine the challenging situation 3. Now open the taps, in your mind’s eye, allowing the water of your body to drain out of your feet, via the taps, taking with it all of the uncomfortable feelings this situation brings 4. Repeat if you need to until all feelings have gone and you feel present

Can you now go back to the situation and see it from a slightly removed place?

CHECK IN WITH YOUR FUTURE BEST YOU

Ask yourself: What would the future best version of yourself choose? There is no better time than now to say no to anything and everything that does not align with the future best version of you, because if it doesn’t work for you then, then why would it be good for you now?

The chances that you were born on this earth are similar to one in one squillion.

“One of the greatest regrets in life is being what others would want you to be, rather than being yourself ” (Shannon L. Alder). It is therefore of life-changing importance to be empowered by your choice and choose

HEALTH & WELLNESS Olivia is an English-born qualified masseuse, meditation and yoga teacher, based in Sydney’s inner west, running Olivia Ferrari Wellness. For bookings and more information: www.oliviaferrariwellness.com ph: 0424 046 301 fb: @oliviaferrariwellness

what is divinely right for you. There is no one that truly can understand what is right for you, and we cannot expect them to.

You are the only person like you and the only person that will ever be you. In light of the above, our time here is so precious so be choosy where you spend your energy.

As infants in the care of our parents so many choices were made for us but now as adults, in the sweet spot before we may need care again as the elderly, we have the greatest power to make our own choices.

What a fantastic time to be alive.

Intuition can be a great tool for guidance in choice making. Intuition is this fabulous mechanism of the unconscious brain using pattern recognition to keep

us safe. We experience something and our subconscious stores memory of the experience so that when faced with something similar; our brain rifles through our memories to find a pattern in order to make sense of it and guide us to make the safest choice.

All that you experience is a sum of your choices and so you, being the driver of this life, can choose how you next behave (and perhaps mould your intuition). In this very moment you have an opportunity to make one choice towards a smiling you. What will it take for you to smile in this moment?

I personally have a list of choices I know I can make that lead me to the happiest version of myself: time in nature, exercise

in the morning, no/low sugar foods and no caffeine. It’s a hack that works really well for me…tried and tested! When learning about your own decision-making process and becoming more conscious about the power you have over it, having a list of great go-to activities for yourself could be useful too. Simply start by asking: what can I choose for me today?

I fully support you living a choosy life.

For this precious time you have been gifted on this earth you can be as choosy as you want and need to be. I hope this article helps to empower you and your decisionmaking process – either way reach out and let me know your thoughts! I always love hearing from you all.

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Leigh Dole BLOW BAR CO

Leigh Dole wears many hats – mum, entrepreneur and the queen of blowies. This powerhouse of a woman is unstoppable when it comes to growth and expansion in the world of bricks and mortar. While many businesses were shuttering during Covid-19, Leigh pushed ahead and launched Blow Bar Co in David Jones, Sydney. Nicci Herrera chats with the savvy business woman about upscaling and business growth – regardless of a global pandemic.

WHEN AND WHY DID YOU LAUNCH YOUR FIRST BUSINESS?

I launched my very first salon when I was 17 years old in Woollahra. After a few years, I realised traditional cuts and colours (i.e. maintenance!) was not for me, so I took a break from the beauty industry to rediscover my passion. I knew I wanted to capture all of the special moments of a woman’s life and put them in one place – a feel good space. This became Blow Bar Co. It was launched in 2015.

I’ve always loved human connection and making people feel and look good. I love sharing special moments with clients who become friends. Whether it’s a job interview, formal, first date, hen’s party, christening, wedding, or just a catch up on life with the weekday blow - I share their journey while making them look and feel beautiful. Our clients/friends always leave feeling empowered and confident and the joy I receive from watching them walk away with a spring in their step is absolutely wonderful - there’s no better feeling!

WHAT WERE THE KEY FACTORS IN DECIDING TO EXPAND?

I believe there should be a Blow Bar Co on every corner, in every state! One store was never enough.

I always wanted to bring this amazing space and feeling to women everywhere. When we launched Blow Bar Co in 2015, we went from two staff to 25 staff in just eight weeks. Almost instantly we had offers from all over to expand and the most common comment was “You should open one in my suburb!” And this still continues today. At the moment, we have venues in Bronte, Balmain, Coogee (inside the Coogee Pavilion) and David Jones, Sydney CBD. Our community of women will travel far and wide to experience Blow Bar and I think it would be rude not to continue to keep expanding.

YOU LAUNCHED BLOW BAR CO INTO DAVID JONES, SYDNEY, IN OCTOBER 2020, WHEN COVID-19 RESTRICTIONS WERE STILL IN FORCE – TELL US ABOUT IT?

This question almost brings me to tears... what a year! This was one of the hardest and most challenging times of my career - as I’m sure many people can relate to.

People regularly questioned why I would open a salon during a pandemic? As you may know, events are a big part of our business and they were cancelled - weddings, birthdays, formals, hens parties etc. We also service corporate professionals - and many of these businesswomen were working from home.

With the entire world facing such a challenging time, it was a hard time to remain positive and keep motivated while trying to launch 72| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

BUSINESS HOW DID YOU SECURE GIVENCHY AS YOUR EXCLUSIVE MAKEUP PARTNER IN DJS?

Givenchy Beauty is an incredible brand partner and we were kindly introduced through the David Jones team. We have learnt so much about the brand - from the history, the story, how it was born and how it continues to innovate. It is a brand like no other.

CAN YOU SHARE SOME OF THE SUCCESSES AND CHALLENGES THAT YOU HAVE FACED THROUGH THE JOURNEY OF UPSCALING YOUR BUSINESS?

Business can be so rewarding yet hard at the same time. My successes lie in the partnerships I’ve gained and the relationships I’ve made along the way. I’ve had the opportunity to meet many amazing people throughout my career, who I feel privileged and honoured to know. As my gorgeous team continues to grow, it’s such a lovely experience to be able to be a part of their lives, just as they’re a part of mine! Not to mention our gorgeous clients, who we share our day to day with - we’re all a big family.

We’ve partnered with so many powerful brands - from Givenchy Beauty and David Jones to Merivale [we have a venue inside the Coogee Pavilion], NAK Hair, SWIISH Wellness and a group of various charities and corporate initiatives - the list goes on.

Together, we keep learning and growing and that’s what’s really important. While the relationships we’ve built along the way are extremely rewarding, at times, it can also be challenging. I feel this deeply when staff - who I call family - leave the nest. Many of them do venture back, even if it’s just as a guest appearance. I feel so blessed that I am able to form these kinds of relationships with my staff and that I get to be a part of their journey and career nonetheless.

Another challenging aspect of operating an original idea that you’re so passionate about is when I see our concept being replicated by other businesses, however I have come to learn that imitation is the finest form of flattery.

WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS SHOULD YOU WAIT TO GROW ORGANICALLY OR ENGAGE INVESTORS? WHY?

I think both. I believe it’s important to never scale too soon as you can lose key ingredients for a successful business. At some point, however, you may need investors to help you grow.

WITH BABY NUMBER THREE ON THE WAY, DO YOU PLAN TO SLOW DOWN ANYTIME SOON?

Never! I don’t have a job, I wake up doing what I love every day. It’s rewarding and fulfilling and I have a family within my business that I adore. I have a very good team, who I feel blessed to have and the most supporting husband who is my world. To say I’m blessed is an understatement...

I can’t wait for all that’s ahead. I am so excited about the future of the brand, where we have come and where we are going. I don’t want to miss a beat.

I have recently appointed additional senior staff which has allowed me more time to work on growth plans and a number of exciting things ahead! Stay tuned…

HOW DO YOU ‘JUGGLE IT ALL’?

ANY SECRET TIPS AND/OR TRICKS YOU CAN SHARE?

Aussie made

a new business. We opened Blow Bar David Jones without being able to do makeup services, which was heartbreaking, as it’s a big part of our concept. However, when makeup services resumed, we were thrilled to announce our new makeup partnership with the incredible Givenchy Beauty.

Partnering with Australia’s leading department store and launching Blow Bar David Jones is undoubtedly one of my proudest moments.

David Jones is a part of Australian history and to be part of it with or without Covid-19 is incredible.

If I can recommend anything... early mornings, learn to love them! The world can be so chaotic - between phone calls, social media, emails, work meetings and events... there is a golden hour (for me hours) somewhere between 3-5am where the world is still. I plan my day during this time - it’s important to take a moment to list your jobs and prioritise. Use a good task management app so you can always revert back to see where you’re at.

WHAT DO YOU KNOW NOW THAT YOU WISH YOU’D KNOWN EARLIER?

Follow your heart and trust your gut. I used to doubt myself and what I was doing... but trust yourself ! Everything starts somewhere and you might just be that someone who starts it. www.blowbarco.com.au

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THE MYER BEAUTY BUYERS

Secret Product Picks

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BUYERS LIST

The Myer family is an Australian retailing dynasty. It was founded in Australia by Sidney Myer back in 1900in Bendigo, Victoria. Today, it is Australia’s largest department store by revenue and store count. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the ultimate influencers – the Myer beauty buyers – to find out what could be your next favourite product.

LISA IANNO, CATEGORY BUYER, DESIGNER BRANDS AND FRAGRANCES

1. Chanel La Mousse cleanser. It’s a silky cleansing cream that foams on contact with water. It’s gentle on my face, and leaves my skin glowing. It is an absolute must in my morning and evening skincare routine.

Fragrance - choosing only one is like choosing my favourite child!

I really love fragrances that boost my confidence. My two faves are: 2. Creed Aventus For Her EDP – it’s my ‘power dressing’ scent that elevates me and makes me feel empowered 3. The new Dior J’adore Infinissime EDP is divine. A sparkling and sophisticated floral bouquet with rose, jasmine, ylang ylang and tuberose.

RENEE STASIOS, CATEGORY BUYER, PRESTIGE SKIN AND MAKE UP

4. Lancôme Advanced Genifique - I couldn’t live without this product, if I could bathe in it I would. I use it religiously day and night to get healthy, hydrated skin. My buyer’s tip… put some in your foundation to give you that extra dewy look.

5. Estée Lauder Double Wear - This is my absolute goto foundation to take me from day to night. It’s a buildable foundation that leaves you with a natural yet flawless look for 24 hours of perfection.

6. Benefit They’re Real Magnet Mascara - Benefit’s new mascara has quickly become a staple in my makeup bag. The magnetic mineral enriched formula leaves my lashes lifted and extremely long.

7. MAC Velvet Teddy - This is the perfect pinky nude. The bullet lipstick is rich and creamy leaving my lips feeling hydrated.

MADELEINE MCMAHON, CATEGORY BUYER IN TRAINING, BEAUTY EMPORIUM

8. Palm Beach Collection Clove & Sandalwood Candle - After a long day at work, there is nothing that helps me wind down faster than lighting a beautiful Palm Beach Collection candle and letting the fragrance carry me away. I love woody, earthy scented candles and the Palm Beach Collection Clove & Sandalwood has quickly become a favourite in my home. It’s a clean burning candle and its sleek packaging design means I can set it up anywhere in my home and it fits seamlessly into the décor.

After a long day at work, there is nothing that helps me wind down faster than lighting a beautiful Palm Beach Collection candle and letting the fragrance carry me away. I love woody, earthy scented candles and the Palm Beach Collection Clove & Sandalwood has quickly become a favourite in my home.

– Madeleine McMahon

9. Kissed Earth Brilliance Collagen Unflavoured - I am a strong advocate for beginning your skincare journey from within and Kissed Earth Brilliance Collagen unflavoured is the perfect place to start. Brilliance Unflavoured is scent free, flavour free and heat stable so it can be easily added to my morning coffee. I have noticed a significant improvement in my skin, nails and hair since including Kissed Earth in my daily skincare routine. If you’re a glow-getter, this product is for you.

10. Kora Noni Bright Vitamin C Serum - I am a huge fan of the KoraNoni Bright Vitamin C serum which is absolutely packed with skin loving ingredients and helps to visibly brighten and tone my skin every day. I have very sensitive skin and this serum, whilst potent, does not irritate it in the slightest. I especially love that this super efficacious serum is vegan, cruelty free and certified organic by COSMOS. 11. Natio Rosewater Hydration Drench Mineral Face Mist - The beauty of the Natio Rosewater Hydration Drench Mineral Face Mist is literally in the name – it provides an absolute drenching of hydrating, micro-fine hyaluronate particles that is the perfect pick me up at all times of the day. One spritz of this beautiful rose smelling mist and I am instantly revitalised. I make sure to leave one on my desk and keep one in my bag for a quick refresh when I am out and about.

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COTY

PR QUEEN Anita Kaurinovic lives and breathes beauty.

The Coty PR & Influencer Marketing Manager looks after the Luxury portfolio, which includes illustrious brands such as Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Calvin Klein, Chloé, Davidoff, Gucci, Hugo Boss, Kylie Skin, Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu and Tiffany & Co, as well as skincare brand philosophy. In addition, she also manages the Coty family of Consumer brands that includes global icons like Covergirl, Max Factor, Rimmel, Sally Hansen and Adidas.

Michelle Ruzzene finds out what life is like for the busy, mother-of-two PR beauty queen.

Anita Kaurinovic was taught some valuable life lessons in her first job working in a nursing home. At the age of 15, she already witnessed loss, sorrow and heartache while learning the power of human connection. “Working in a nursing home at 15 taught me that life is incredibly short, and that having family and friends close is as important as your health - we all impact other people’s life, with or without knowing it.”

She credits working in beauty retail on the shop floor at David Jones for teaching her two major qualities needed for her career: a love of beauty and understanding people – and says the beauty retail environment was “a pressure cooker of both - the good and the not so great.”

Anita said after her stint at David Jones, she was hired as an admin coordinator for a family-owned beauty distributor who had their own in-house/on-site media agency, warehousing, training facility.

“I was exposed to and worked in all the departments and saw how each part of the business played towards getting products into

Anita Kaurinovic PR & Influencer Marketing Manager - Luxury & Consumer Divisions, Coty

the hands of consumers,” she said. “I helped out the PR & Events Manager and that is where I fell in love with PR and knew this was the path for me.

Today, the mother-of-two manages the ultimate duo – the Luxury and Consumer Divisions – as PR & Influencer Marketing Manager at Coty.

An early riser, Anita manages to squeeze in a coffee and exercise before starting work for the fifth largest beauty company in the world (L’Oréal, Unilever, Estée Lauder Companies and Procter & Gamble round out the top four multinationals).

“I’m usually up around 5am and love having my morning coffee while I scroll through news apps or social media on my phone,” she said. “I need to work out in the mornings and it’s either a hike around the beaches and headlands, usually on weekends, or I head off to the pilates studio and do a reformer class. Coty is a very flexible workplace and family friendly which allows us to work from home or the office. If I’m working from home, I tackle work projects with more focus and have the clarity to be more creative.”

Anita said a day in the office began with her hour plus drive,

The best training ground for a job in the beauty industry is working on the cosmetics floor in a department store or a speciality beauty store. You will gain exposure to a wide breath of brands and people, and you will gain an insight into how people purchase and the types of questions they have. If you move to any other role within a beauty organisation, you will always keep the end customer at the heart of what you are trying to achieve.

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AM: Cleanse with Philosophy Purity Cleanser, pop on the Omnilux Contour Face Mask, a Vitamin C Serum, Moisturise with Philosophy Nature in a Jar Cica Complex Moisturiser and never leave the home without sunscreen.

PM: Double cleanse with Philosophy Purity Cleanser, either Biologique Recherche P50 lotion or Zo Skin Health Retinol as my night treatment, then glaze myself like a doughnut with Jojoba Oil and Philosophy’s Nature in a Jar Skin Rehab Balm.

which gave her a chance to listen to beauty, wellness, health and property podcasts. One she arrives at work, it’s time to hit the ground running.

“I love being around the energy of the Coty team when I am in the office. The day is taken up fulfilling editorial request for media and influencers, coffee meetings with journalists at Bambini in Sydney, planning and strategy meetings and ensuring our advertising and social strategies for all our brands are aligned with my plans for editorial and content. The highlight of the day is when we receive a new beauty product in the office. Opening, touching and smelling new fragrances, skincare or make up products gets the entire team excited.”

Anita credits a progressive working environment that has seen her work for the same company for more than 15 years.

“I get to work with, learn and have fun with some of the most incredible people in the beauty industry and it has always proved to be a place where individuals are liberated and allowed to shine in our own unique way. It’s a progressive environment that never gets boring.”

In her time at Coty, Anita has witnessed the company grow in leaps and bounds but remain true to its core philosophy.

“When I first started working at Coty, it was a small team and felt like a family run organisation. Initially, we only had a few brands in the portfolio, mainly Davidoff, Joop!, Jennifer Lopez and Rimmel.

Following Coty’s acquisition of Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs and Vera Wang the portfolio of brands never seemed to stop growing and now stands as a world leader in beauty and home to an illustrious roster of cosmetic, skincare and fragrance brands.”

Working with Kylie Minogue is certainly a standout for the PR maven.

“Working on Kylie Minogue’s ‘Darling’ fragrance launch was an incredible experience,” she said. “I worked with her manager Terry Blamey and a team of incredibly talented people to host the global press event at a private residence here in Sydney. It was Kylie’s first public appearance since her cancer journey and we had media outlets from around the world in attendance. Yes, she is even more beautiful in real life.”

Anita said juggling such a huge number of brands and a changing media landscape wasn’t without its challenges. “Our unique portfolio of prestigious and relevant brands allows people to express and celebrate their individual beauty. Ensuring each brand receives love and attention is ALWAYS the challenge. Confidence and maturity to target and nurture new and existing media relations in this ever-evolving media landscape can also be challenging. Trying to scope out who is genuinely interested in a win-win professional relationship and not just in it for personal gain, can be tricky to navigate.”

MY JOURNEY

ANITA’S DAILY SKINCARE ROUTINE:

Consumers’ expectations are driving brands like Coty to focus on inclusivity and sustainability, she said. “Delving into how people think and act as well as their purchasing habits is crucial to any brand’s relevance and success. People are seeking brands that focus on inclusivity, representation and eco-conscious living and this affects how they prefer to shop and how they are influenced to purchase beauty products. Brands are using, bespoke loyalty and referral programs and movements towards sustainability, consumers are watching what brands are doing, not just advertising. For example, Coty is taking action and aims to recycle 80% of waste generated by our factories and distribution centres by 2030. This decision was driven by our customers’ expectations of us.”

Anita credits her mum as being her most important influence on her, both personally and professional. “Immigrating to Australia as a 35-year-old single girl from Bosnia and building the life she now has; my mother is beyond admirable. She gives me great perspective on life. When I was younger, I remembered not having a clue as to which career interested me. She said, ‘You like magazines, you like people and you have too many beauty products’. Enough said.”

Anita said people often had misconceptions about the beauty industry and that her school friends kept her grounded.

“My friends outside the industry always assume that luxury beauty has a vibe of the film Devil Wears Prada. Whilst we are predominantly women, we fiercely support, encourage and nurture each other. We all share life/partner/travel/wellness/kids’ advice and we are all in different stages of our career, but our unified passion is beauty. My dynamic and strong group of high school girlfriends continually influence me. Even though our careers and life paths are quite different, their support is unwavering, and they always remind you of who you are.”

I’ve always believed in Coty’s mission: to challenge the definition of beauty, to encourage authenticity and celebrate diversity. It is an extremely fast-paced, giant of an organisation but at its heart, Coty is also a treasure house of diverse talent and a family of skilled professionals.

ANITA’S HERO BEAUTY PRODUCTS: Impossible to choose! But the one product I seem to always stick to and go through bottle after bottle, is the Purity Cleanser by Philosophy.

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Ready, set,

activate

What is brand activation and why do you need it? PR guru Charlie Boyce, founder of Portobello PR, tells us what it takes to make a brand experience one that stands out from the rest.

By Michelle Ruzzene.

WHEN SHOULD A BRAND HAVE AN EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING/PR ACTIVATION?

For our brands it has been any of the following: 1. When they want to drive hype around a new product SKU. 2. Wanting to increase social traffic and followers/likes 3. A campaign launch 4. They are just ready to activate with consumers face-to-face to tell their brand story and drive sales.

It could also be a combination of all of these factors!

WHAT ARE SOME EXAMPLES OF EXPERIENTIAL ACTIVATIONS?

One of our most recent activations include the Ecoya Drive Thru.

We wanted consumers to be able to experience the brand’s Car Diffuser range first hand in a Covid-19 safe environment, while still giving them a face-to-face experience. We hosted a total takeover of a drive thru in Rose Bay, with full branding, promotional teams and a partnership with KIIS FM - allowing consumers the opportunity to select product, smell the range and understand more about the

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01. Charlie Boyce, Portobello PR founder and director.

02. The Ecoya diffusers ready to be handed out.

brand. We were able to educate and engage with consumers from the comfort of their own car. It was the first, large activation for the brand since the Covid-19 pandemic. It was hugely rewarding to bring to life the one-day event, from initial concept to launch. Some other great ones that we have worked on over the past 10 years include beachside take overs and private jet branding with Bondi, bringing Mambo to life at Splendour in the Grass with crowds of people in their iconic yardage print and the HiSmile Christmas event at the Star, Gold Coast, which was carefully curated from start to finish.

WHAT IS THE ROLE OF THE PR AGENCY FOR THE BRAND?

We work across all areas of communication. Our client scope of working can be anything from creating strategy, looking at the public perception of the brand, creating content, social media management to traditional aspects of product placement and news stories and events. We are here to navigate all areas of their comms and work as an extra arm to their marketing or ecommerce teams.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO PLAN THE LAUNCH/OPENING?

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Planning can be anything from four weeks to nine months ! It all depends on the budgets that clients have locked in or if it’s been an idea we have pitched that they have pressed ‘go’ on quickly. Either way we always make sure we approach it in the same way - with

BUSINESS

tight planning and briefs, budgets , an abundance of enthusiasm and clear ongoing communication as we work across the activation. A real focus is really the end goal / ROI for the brand and awareness for the client.

HOW DO YOU SCOUT FOR A LOCATION?

It’s back to basics - we brainstorm internally and with some of our external creative partners as well as hitting the streets to look for hidden or unusual venues. We have additionally used a location scout if we are looking for a high traffic area with more speciality requirements.

HOW DO YOU SOURCE/SHOP FOR FIXTURES AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED?

We work with an amazing production lady who assists us, depending on what we need for the activation. We start with the creative direction of the event and then work out where best to source what we need - it can range from custom builds to existing props that we hire.

03.

03. The Ecoya activation included car branding.

04. The right staff is important for an activation.

05. The Ecoya drive-thru.

HOW DO YOU COORDINATE THE EVENT LOGISTICS REQUIRED FOR THE ACTIVATION?

We stick a tight run-sheet and work with the venues and a production team to make sure everything plays out as it should. As a team, we have regular meetings on the event and how we are tracking and keep a live update for the clients’ in our documents so they are across it.

04.

HOW DO YOU BOOK AND MANAGE EVENTS STAFF ON THE DAY?

We have worked with companies such as Edge Models as director Gary Holmes has been excellent in understanding our briefs for talent. Without fail we always look at the brand ethos and who will be able to educate consumers well about the brand. We meet all talent via Zoom ( if we can’t meet them in person) to educate them about the product/brand and to ensure they understand our objectives for the day as well. We also look at what is needed and think about what agency or talent / additional staff are required for the day. We have a great team of external support staff we work with as well.

WHAT ARE USUALLY THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES ON THE DAY?

WEATHER….and clearly Covid-19 this past year. We have done many a bump-in during rain, wind, flooding and worse.

WHAT’S IMPORTANT TO CONSIDER FOR THE EXECUTION OF THE ACTIVATION?

The end goal and what the client wants from this activation. Was it to gain social media traction, drive sales or a general brand awareness piece? We want to ensure that we are constantly remembering that and talking back to it in planning. Also ensuring their branding, messaging is portrayed in way they want. Lastly making sure any event is educational / fun and creates buzz.

05.

We wanted consumers to be able to experience the brand’s Car Diffuser range first hand in a Covid-19 safe environment, while still giving them a face-to-face experience.

HOW DO YOU GENERATE BUZZ/INTEREST FOR THE EVENT/ACTIVATION?

Through media partnerships and collaborative partnerships with influencers. We also make sure we clearly pitch the event to media and potential guests. Social media posts and promotional targeting and advertising has always played a part outside of the traditional personal invite.

HOW DO YOU ANALYSE AND DETERMINE IF THE ACTIVATION SUCCEEDED OR NOT?

Did our sales increase or was our brand awareness / social following increased? More than anything was the client happy with the eyeballs reached and are they pleased that we delivered the result they wanted in the initial brief. www.portobellopr.com.au RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |79

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Online Retail

Round Up

The latest news, views and insights happening in the online world of retail.

BEAUTY POWERS MYER’S IMPRESSIVE E-COMMERCE RESULTS

Online sales increased in January, following a small slump in December, reports the latest NAB Online Retail Sales Index.

The much-awaited index estimates that in the 12 month period to January this year, Australians spent $45.6 billion online. Alan Oster, NAB Chief Economist, said that metro areas continue to lead the way by contrast to regional e-commerce uptake, especially in NSW and Victoria. It’s no surprise that takeaway food, still a relatively minor category, increased its share of the national online spend in January from 4.1 per cent to 5.3 per cent. Strong online sales growth was a lifesaver of Myer in the first half of fiscal 2021.Overall sales dropped 13.1 per cent over the period to $1.398 billion. But group online sales jumped 71 per cent to $287.6 million, making up 21 per cent of total sales in the first six months of the financial year. Beauty put in a stellar performance with sales rising 129 per cent followed by homewares sales which picked up 116 per cent. Myer’s loyalty program – MYER One – also proved its worth over the period.

The department store chain introduced $10 reward cards and more than one million new members signed up to take advantage of the offer. Online continues to grow at record levels, now representing 21 per cent of our business in the first half, noted John King, CEO of the Myer Group. “That’s double what it was a year ago.” The company does not expect online growth to continue at the same levels in the second half of the financial year, adds King. “However, we do expect continued growth as this channel continues to gain momentum as we build range and choice for our customers, and operational efficiencies.”

AESOP AND THE BODY SHOP POST HIGHEST-EVER ONLINE SALES

Natura & Co has long been one of the Big Two of Brazil’s beauty market – the 4th largest in the world after the US, Japan and China.

But the company became truly multinational with the acquisitions of Aesop, The Body Shop and Avon International. The four key pillars enjoyed global sales of 36.9 billion Brazilian Reals (AUD$8.42 billion) in 2020. The company’s Q4 results have produced another record performance – up 24.1 per cent to 12 billion Brazilian Reals (AUD$2.74 billion). Digital social selling and e-commerce pushed total digital sales up 79 per cent and all four leading brands posted their highest-ever online sales results. Aesop’s total online sales for the period surged 190 per cent, reaching 30 per cent of total revenues. Asia was the hotspot for the Aussie-founded brand, notably Japan and South Korea. The Body Shop quickly switched 80| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

to online and at-home TV channels during the Covid-19 crisis, with sales rising 13 per cent in Q4 to account for 40 per cent of total sales. The UK supplied a major boost for Avon International, which saw total revenues climb 12.1 per cent. Natura & Co’s net profit for the quarter was also up 200 per cent. Roberto Marques, executive chairman and CEO of Natura & Co noted: “In a year of unprecedented challenges, Natura & Co associates and our network across all of our businesses showed care and adaptability in the face of a global pandemic, demonstrating both our purpose-driven approach to business and the strength of our omnichannel, multi-brand model. “Our performance in the fourth quarter attests to that, with strong growth in sales and profits. By pivoting rapidly to digital social selling and e-commerce when stores were closed by lockdowns, we were able to outperform the cosmetics, fragrancies and toiletries market both globally and in Brazil.”

ADORE BEAUTY’S REVENUES SOAR 85 PER CENT IN SECOND HALF

Adore Beauty smashed two ceilings last year.

The leading beauty e-tailer raised AUD$269.5 million in the nation’s largest IPO (initial public offering) of 2020 and founder Kate Morris became the first woman to lead an Australian IPO launch. The company went public on October 23rd with the ASX ticker code Adore Beauty Group Limited.

The white hot float of the year has paid off. Over the six months to December 31st, Adore Beauty enjoyed a record second half to reach revenues of AUD$96.2 million – an 85 per cent increase over the same period a year earlier. Adore Beauty’s first national advertising campaign springboarded a 52 per cent brand awareness surge and the company’s branded podcast downloads increased 84 per cent to 930,000 over the second half. The company recently announced on Instagram its podcast had hit a total of two million downloads. Earnings were also up 188 per cent and gross profit

BEAUTY AND HEALTH DRIVE 31.4 PER CENT Q4 GROWTH FOR JD.COM

JD.com, China’s second largest e-commerce platform after Alibaba, ended the last quarter of 2020 on a high note.

The mega-etailer posted Q4 revenue growth of 31.4 per cent to US$34.4 billion. Full year sales were also up 29.3 per cent by contrast to 2019 to US$114.3 billion. Much of the growth was driven by three categories - healthcare, cosmetics and home products. Chinese New Year celebrations were muted this year as the government encouraged people to stay put instead of travel.

As more people hunkered down at home, JD.com enjoyed “a very healthy consumption trend”, says JD.com founder, Richard Liu. “Also because of the staycation, a lot of merchants continued to operate their business on the platform during the Chinese New Year promotion and even extended their working hours,” he said. Annual active customer accounts surged 30.3 per cent to 471.9 million in 2020 - up from 362 million in 2019 - The largest expansion in JD.com’s history. Full year income totalled a massive US$7.6 billion.

AMAZON ACCOUNTS FOR 32 PER CENT OF ONLINE BEAUTY SALES IN THE US

Amazon has been selling beauty products since the online titan debuted in 1994. But up until recently, most SKUs sold were from mass brands.

According to a report from Stella Rising, a leading US media, marketing and consulting firm for rising brands, Amazon now accounts for 32 per cent - close to one third - of all beauty products sold online in the US. The e-commerce giant has been increasing its interest in the health and beauty category since it acquired Whole Foods, the US health food supermarket chain, in 2017 for US$13.4 billion. The huge buyout gave Amazon access to more mass beauty brands. Two years later, the company premiered Belei, an in-house skincare range based on ingredients many customers had searched for, including Vitamin C, peptides, hyaluronic acid and retinol. All of the SKUs were priced below US$40.

Last October, brand founders like Jessica Alba of The Honest Company took part in Amazon’s Beauty Haul Live promotion, alongside Neutrogena, Elemis, Revlon, L’Oréal Paris, Cetaphil and many more leading brands. The 11-hour event featured hundreds of livestreams from celebrities and influencers.

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margin grew 1.4 percentage points to 32.5 per cent in the last six months of 2020. The boom results exceeded Adore Beauty’s prospectus forecast of AUD$89 million and the company expects the good times to continue as more consumers shop online, especially for premium beauty products.

Amazon offers resources, including podcasts and webinars, to encourage influencers and beauty brands to use its Live feature. The potential is huge. Livestream shopping in China, for example, generated an estimated US$61 billion in 2019.

2020 also witnessed the launch of Luxury Stores, a new shopping experience for luxury fashion and beauty brands.

Available through the Amazon app by invitation-only to eligible US Prime members at present, Amazon has blended content and commerce to allow prestige beauty brands to engage and entertain consumers.

Stella Rising also reveals that 77 per cent of beauty consumers surveyed said they shop on Amazon for beauty products, by contrast to 61 per cent and 56 per cent who use Ulta and Sephora e-commerce sites.

At the end of the calendar year 2020, Amazon’s beauty, health and personal care sales totaled US$23 billion.

In Australia, Amazon is on track to complete its first robotics fulfilment centre in the Southern Hemisphere over the next few months. Located in western Sydney and measuring 200,000 square metres, it will be the largest warehouse ever built in Australia.

The company’s fifth fulfilment centre nationwide, the new facility will double Amazon’s operational footprint in Australia.

AFTERPAY THE CLEAR LEADER IN BUY-NOW-PAYLATER SERVICES

Retail sales nationwide increased 8.8 per cent for the nine months from May 2020, reports the Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABS). By contrast to a 2 per cent average annual increase before the Covid-19 pandemic. The BuyNow-Pay-Later (BNPL) sector has also boomed, reveals the latest Roy Morgan Digital Payments Report. According to the researcher, 15 million Australians (72.4%) are aware of BNPL services. Afterpay leads the pack with a 70 per cent awareness, followed by Zip at 49.6 per cent awareness. The two main players are experiencing competition from other providers, including LatitudePay, Humm and Openpay with their awareness reaching 20.3 per cent, 11.5 per cent and 11.3 per cent, respectively. The beauty, health and personal care categories have been major beneficiaries of the BNPL boom and it’s not hard to see why. Women are the key users of Buy-NowPay-Later services, says Michele Levine, CEO of Roy Morgan Research. “They have adopted the new fin tech digital payment services at almost twice the rate of men. While nearly a quarter of people aged 25 to 34 use the new services at a higher rate than any other age group. However, there are key differences between the different providers as, although people aged 25 to 34 are the most likely to use market leaders Afterpay and Zip, the second-tier services provided by Humm, LatitudePay, and Openpay are all more likely to be used by a slightly older demographic.”

THE TOP 10 CLEANSER SEARCHES ON AMAZON

Cleansing is always at the top of consumers beauty agendas.

Frequently, the number one SKU from mass and prestige ranges is the first step in any skincare routine - cleaning the face.

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BUSINESS Cleansing has become even more crucial during the Covid-19 pandemic as one of the three core steps of Skinimalism - the stripped-back skincare regimen that has surged to the fore in leading markets such as the US, the UK and Australia - alongside serums and moisturisers. According to Label Insight, which bills itself as the world’s most trusted product attribute metadata, search data for mega-retailer Amazon reveals the major benefits consumers are looking for in cleansers. Foam cleansers led the pack, racking up 100,000 searches for the third quarter - up from 36,000 for the previous three months. Acne-prone products come in second, although it is a larger category overall, and was boosted because of the increase in maskne and blemishes because of higher stress levels.

In descending order, the other top 10 placegetters ranked by search volume on Amazon were: . containing tea tree oil . aloe ingredients . contains silicone, . contains glycolic acid . pineapple ingredients . combination skin . alcohol-free . no rinse, mainly micellar waters TWO IN THREE ONLINE RETAILERS PLAN TO BOOST ECOMMERCE BUDGETS

Two-thirds of online retailers say they will increase their ecommerce budget this year to drive further business following the acceleration of online shopping in 2020, according to new research from parcel delivery service, CouriersPlease (CP). The survey asked online retailers how they performed last year, whether they made changes to boost sales and if they will increase their ecommerce budgets this year. CP discovered that 66% of online retailers will put more resources and money into enhancing, growing and maintaining their online function this year. Among this group, 44% will increase their budget by more than 20%, while 18% by more than 40%. CP also sought to understand how online retailers performed last year before the October to December peak retail period. Almost two in three (63%) experienced an increase in sales between 23 March (when social restrictions were enforced) and 4 September 2020. Specifically, almost one-third (31%) saw an increase of up to 30%, while one-fifth (21%) experienced an increase of more than 50%. However, 22% said their online sales were the same as before the shutdowns. CP also asked if, and 82| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

what, retailers tried to increase online sales last year from a list of seven action categories. Interestingly, 32% of online retailers did not make changes, suggesting that those retailers experienced an organic increase or cut costs throughout the business. The changes were led by increased sales and promotions (49%), boosted social media activity (45%), improved ecommerce sites (35%), increased communication with customers (31%), incentivising customers (30%) and increased advertising (21%). CP chief commercial officer, Paul Roper said consumers are becoming more comfortable shopping online and the retail sector is continuing to grow.

“As such, online competition will grow alongside customer expectations, and retailers are best to refine their ecommerce strategies ongoing to ensure they are performing. I believe key areas for improvement are the customer experience, from product search on the site right through to the last mile delivery. As part of this, retailers could also review and enhance their returns process, which includes choosing a delivery partner that aligns with their 2021 goals.”

AUSSIES INCREASE TIME SPENT BARGAIN HUNTING DURING COVID-19

The pandemic has boosted the importance of bargain hunting with most Australians seeking to reduce expenditure where possible, according to new research by PayPal deal-finding shopping tool, Honey. More than 8 in 10 (85%) of Australians say they feel positive when they secure a great deal online, with 82% spending up to an hour a week searching online for bargains, and almost onequarter (23%) spend between two and five hours a week on the hunt.

However, some demographics are more likely than others to do so, with those aged 35 to 49 topping the list, spending 30% more time than the national average finding deals, totalling around 85 minutes per week. Parents spend around 77 minutes hunting online, which is more than childless households at 60 minutes and empty nesters at 43 minutes. Honey searches the internet for available discount codes and applies it to consumer’s shopping cart in just seconds.

Since the start of the pandemic, 71% of Aussies said they shop with retailers they know will offer discounts. But this hasn’t stopped those shopping with purpose, with 61% saying they have been stepping up to support local businesses. Two-thirds of Australians (66%) say they are making fewer impulse purchases and 63% care more about finding a bargain during the Covid-19 era. Women were more likely to care (66%) about securing a bargain than men (59%). Covid has also impacted our attitude to non-essential items and treats with over half (57%) saying they will only buy these non-essentials when there is a sale, discount, or coupon available. However, only onethird of Australians (33%) look to find a discount on what they need every time they shop online. Interestingly, 31% said they find online sales confusing or overwhelming and 42% said they would rather choose the easiest path to purchase rather than going out of their way for a deal.

tested on beauties NOT ON ANIMALS

IOOOhour.com.au A CHEMCORP INTERNATIONAL BRAND

06.0009 - 08.2021

1000HOUR Ambassador Tegan Martin wears 1000HOUR Lash & Brow Dye (Dark Brown), and 1000HOUR Instant Brows (Medium Brown).

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Australia’s ban on cosmetic testing on animals

- something worth celebrating!

By Dr Jennifer Semple

As of July 1, 2020, everyone in the Australian cosmetics industry has had something to celebrate. The change comes as welcome news for those engaged in product manufacturing and distribution right through to beauty counter staff, assisting consumers first-hand in our major retailers. Although, many would have missed that the Australian Government ban on the use of new animal test data for cosmetics came into effect that day; unsurprisingly so, given that all attention back then was on the challenges of Covid-19.

Efforts to get the message out about this historic leap forward for animal welfare in Australia were greatly accelerated in early 2021: a major retailer and social media outreach program was launched in February by the National Retail Association (NRA), with support from the Australian Government and in collaboration with Accord.

Using their strong national retailer network, NRA engaged with and educated retailers on the ban. This outreach to retailers was accompanied by an extensive online consumer awareness information package.

In their visits to retailers, NRA Policy Project Manager Ms Ebony Johnson was struck by just how interested and positive their staff were about these developments.

“Most retailers we have seen are delighted that this ban is now in place and are grateful for the information clearly explaining its details to assist both their staff and customers,” Ms Johnson said.

“An important part of the program has been reinforcing that cosmetics include much more than just makeup or skincare products.

Our retailer resources, like the handy in-store postcards, highlight other important products that are also impacted, such as toothpaste and shampoo.

“And the outreach does not end with retailers. All aspects of our social media are public-facing and are driven by appealing and informative videos targeting all types of consumers of cosmetic products.”

Noting that any legislation has complexities, the NRA has created a dedicated website explaining all key details: https://animalcosmetictestban.com.au/about/.

Accord has welcomed the NRA’s campaign, and the large social 84| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

media audience it has tapped into has been hugely impressive says Mr Craig Brock, Accord Policy and Public Affairs Director.

“This level of awareness-raising provides an excellent platform for the coming launch of the Voluntary Industry Code to Support the Australian Ban on Testing Cosmetics on Animals,” he said.

“Work on this code progressed well throughout 2020 and into 2021. Most pleasingly, Australia’s peak animal welfare body, RSPCA Australia, engaged constructively with Accord throughout this process and they have helped to improve the Code.

“The code will provide useful guidance to cosmetic industry businesses and interested consumers. Its focus is on valid product advertising claims related to animal testing, now that the Australian ban is in force.

“Feedback from across the industry and from other relevant organisations has been incorporated into the Code, which has been expertly drafted for clarity and rigour by our legal partners for this project, HWL Ebsworth Lawyers.”

A launch of the code is scheduled for the first half of 2021 and will be followed by industry awareness and training sessions.

ABOUT DR JENNIFER SEMPLE

Dr Jennifer Semple is the Innovation & Education Manager at Accord Australasia Limited

ABOUT ACCORD

Accord Australasia is the peak body representing companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australian-owned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. www.accord.asn.au

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MODEL @sarahellen MAKEUP @raemorrismakeup PHOTOGRAPHY @tanecoffin

Retail Beauty’s collection of industry friends share their strategies on networking, selling, product knowledge and job-related growth to build your career as a beauty assistant, the ultimate beauty influencer.

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Kiss bad lips goodbye

Bourjois Velvet The Pencil in I’m So Plu(m)cky www.coty.com Carmex Moisture Plus Hydrating Lip Tint in Mauve’d Up www.carmex.com.au Napoleon Perdis Mattetastic Lipstick in Greta www.napoleonperdis.com Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb Universal Lip Luminizer www.sephora.com.au Innisfree Simple Label Lip Color Balm in Rose www.innisfree.com/au Trinny London Lip2Cheek in Sherin (10% of every sale will be donated to Sherin’s chosen charity, Breast Cancer Now) www.trinnylondon.com/au Gucci Rouge A Levres Voile Lip Colour in They Met in Argentina www.coty.com Bobbi Brown Luxe Defining Lipstick in Orchid Noir www.bobbibrown.com.au Inika Organic Certified Organic Lip & Cheek Cream in Dust www.inikaorganic.com Rouge Hermès Satin Lipstick in Rose Pommette www.cosmax.com.au La Glam Minerals Lipstick Gold Collection in Foxy www.laglamcosmetics.com L’Oréal Paris Color Riche Matte Lipstick 630 Satin Beige A Nu www.lorealparis.com.au Charlotte Tilbury Hyaluronic + Happikiss Colour Balm in Happiberry www.charlottetilbury.com/au Flower Beauty Petal Pout Lip Mask in Pucker www.chemistwarehouse.com.au Edible Beauty Australia Green Goddess Lip Oil www.ediblebeautyaustralia.com Morphe x Avani Gregg Matte Lipstick in Yes Red (part of Love You Lip Duo) www.mecca.com.au MCo Beauty Lip Oil in Pink www.mcobeauty.com Revlon Colorstay Satin Ink Lip Color in Partner in Wine www.revlonanz.com

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Photo Credit: Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au

The best cool winter lipstick colours to wear all season long

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M I C H A E L’ S T O P T I P S O N

LET’S TALK

SHADE...

You’re only a few steps away from the perfect foundation shade. Michael Brown reveals his top tips and tricks to matching foundation, blush and lipstick to best enhance someone’s complexion.

By Michael Brown @mbrown_beauty www.michaelbrownbeauty.com.au

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Perfecting your makeup application techniques is one thing, but if shades of product you are applying aren’t complementing your skin tone, then what’s the point? Getting the correct shades would be my number one priority when it comes to makeup artistry. Using the right techniques to apply these shades will then create the perfect balance to bring a makeup look to life. I recently hosted an Instagram Live on a department store’s account, showing a natural makeup look that focused on foundation to gain a beautiful, complexion-based makeup. With

more 38,000 views, I was surprised how many of the questions or comments were ‘shade’ related, such as; ‘How do I pick the best shade?’

‘What’s a good shade for fair skin?’

‘Is there a shade for a dark skin tone?’

Pretty standard questions I guess, but then I also received a few of, ‘I always get recommended the wrong shade for me,’ or ‘I have that foundation, but the wrong shade,’ and even ‘the beauty advisor told me to buy this shade, but when I got home, it’s too dark’ - this all could be avoided and shouldn’t happen.

Choosing a shade for a customer should be pretty straight forward and you need to ask questions, plus visually determine and check shades on the skin. This doesn’t just apply to foundation, but blush and lipstick choices also. This is such an ‘in-store’ benefit and relationship building process that online retailers do not have, so use it wisely. It can help build trust and a successful long-term business, as your goal is ongoing and repeat purchasing from clients. I have been a makeup artist for 20 years, so I can easily match a foundation and determine a skin undertone. But in today’s world, a lot of customers like to be involved in the decision making to have that ownership, so in a retail environment, I would still sit them down and discuss, show and prescribe the best shade choices. That way, the customer still feels involved in all of decisions made. Trust me, it works, and they feel more empowered than just being told what to wear or buy - this isn’t the 90’s.

SHADES WITH UNDERTONES

The best way for a ‘shades’ consultation is to determine someone’s skin undertone. This is imperative for so many makeup shade decisions, and makes everything so much easier when discussed with your client. It’s not based on trends, or what their friends wear - it’s true shades suited to them personally.

We typically have a cool or warm undertone. A cool undertone can be described as fair, light or pink-based skin tone, whereas a warm undertone can be described as olive, deep or yellow-based skin tone. There are so many ways to determine these tones visually, but the truest place to check is at the back of the wrist. The vein colour you see can determine your undertone very easily. If you see more blue within the vein colour, that indicates a cool undertone - if you see more green, then it’s a warm undertone. This little undertone hack works every time and is so easy to understand for all involved.

We often relate the colour blue to being cool, or going blue when cold, so anything with a blue undertone is actually a really great balance or colour lift to a warm/yellow skin tone.

And when you use fake tan, often the undertone is green, to give that warm, holiday glow, so these tones can be great to take out any pink in a cool skin tone and just in general, warm up and balance a cool undertone skin.

FOUNDATION

Australians tend to have pink tones present on their skin, mainly due to either being fair skin, or sensitivity, plus from environmental damage. This could very slight pink hues – usually present on front of cheeks, or in some cases a lot, depending on how sensitive your skin is - even olive skin can still appear a little pink from time to time. Therefore, the most popular shades of foundation sold/used are neutral to yellow base foundations, which then balance this concern out. Just because you are a pink base or a yellow base, doesn’t mean you must wear that undertone in your foundation.

You still must see what is more present on this skin in terms of tones and go with that – it’s all about balance.

It’s very rare someone goes for a pink base foundation. You are likely to be extremely fair, or lacking so much in colour (can happen with the elderly) that you need the pink undertones for a lift in colour to the face.

A neutral undertone in foundation is quite

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SHADE CONSULTATION

popular for many. It means rather than just pink or yellow pigment within the foundation, a neutral base also contains black and white pigment. It appears slightly cooler than a yellow base foundation, but not adding colour like a pink base. This is perfect for a lot of fair to medium skin tones with redness that’s visible to balance it out and be very natural to the skin.

It’s also amazing for a lot of Asian heritage skin tones, as even though some may technically be a yellow undertone, a lot are quite fair in colour, so it becomes more natural. A yellow base foundation undertone is suited for an olive and much deeper skin tone. This is often applied incorrectly, leaving blending marks or just a sallow skin appearance, especially if you are wanting to look ‘warmer’ or ‘bronzed’. It’s best to always match foundation to exact skin tones. Apply a small swatch at front of cheek to neck for best match. If necessary, add bronzers after foundation application for a cleaner look.

BLUSH

This for me is quite easy, as you should always just choose a shade of blush that you don’t see present on someone’s skin. Blush can be light and bright, placed at the top of the apple of the cheek for a ‘lift and plump’ effect. If you already see a lot of pink tones or redness on the skin, avoid a pink blush and use something warmer or bronzed. If the client chooses full coverage foundation, only then could pink be an option, but I’d still avoid where possible, so no pink hues are visible – peach would be perfect. Then on a warm, yellow skin tone, the concern is often with looking dull, sallow or just too yellow. Of course, they may want a bronzer applied under their cheekbone for some bone structure/contour, but usually adding a peach for a lighter olive skin tone, and then pink for a deep skin tone just slightly above the contour area, will give colour and lift to not only their skin, but their entire face. Whenever in doubt, a peach tone blush suits all skin tones - it’s slightly warmer for fair skin and brighter for olive skin.

LIPS

All of the above can also help choosing lip shades also, especially nude and red lipsticks. Cool skin tones look better with something warmer and warm skin tones look better with something cooler it’s that simple. For example, a lighter/fair tone skin, who maybe has a little bit of pink across their cheeks will look more balanced in a warm/orange base red, whereas an olive/yellow skin tone will wear a blue-based, true red much better. Nude lipsticks are also very undertone dependable. If you are very cool, fair, light in skin tone a beige/peach tone nude would balance and lift your look, whereas if you are quite warm, olive or yellow based these tones would complement that skin tone, but won’t freshen or lift the skin as much as going opposites into cooler nudes would do. If you are unsure how cool or warm they are, once you swatch a cool or warm lipstick next to each other, it’s very easy to see which is which and back of wrist is perfect for colour testing for lipsticks. Of course, lipstick is a very personal choice and no, you don’t have to match your lip shade to your outfit perfectly, so with this advice, really involve your client for the best outcome possible.

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A

Candle Delight By @icybutterfly

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I have always wanted to write about candles. I have an almost unhealthy obsession with them.

They sit on my book shelf, on my coffee table, underneath my flowerpots, literally in every corner of my house. I LOVE candles, all types.

They light up my life, and they are delightful ‘creatures’ that brighten my day.

Selecting aromas can be a test to many.

As candle houses continue to bring out new scents, it can be confusing to the consumer. To pique our interest, some candle houses offer packaging that is unique and identical, while others can be reused as a cup, or offer some other functional feature. They all look adorable from the outside- the big question is, which one to choose?

Invigorating aromas are great for living areas, an office or home office. Often I love to display one with citrus, rosemary or minty scents in those spaces. These candles are welcoming and can help with concentration. To enhance the display, put a few tangerines and plums around the bottom of the candle cup.

For the kitchen, I personally like fruity or herbal scented candles: strawberry or pear are my favourite, simply because they go well with my dishwashing liquid. But when decorating a dining table or a tea party, it can be trickier than you realise - the aroma should go well with the food and beverages, without actually smelling like food. Citrusy candles are safe, or lemongrass is another option. If you can’t decide, go for an odour removing candle.

Fresh scents are perfect for the dressing table or a walk-in wardrobe. Clear the mind while stepping into those zones with scents like fig, cotton flower or sea breeze.

The gorgeous fragrances often linger on the fingertips while you are selecting your outfit of the day, or when you wrap a silk scarf on the handle of your handbag – it can even transfer slightly to your lip while applying lipstick or balm. What a moment!

Relaxing notes are always top bath time picks – these include lavender, eucalyptus and frankincense. Did you know you they are also great to pair with wine?

Sandalwood not only creates a soothing atmosphere for meditation sessions, it also complements fruity red wine perfectly.

What’s suitable for bedrooms or bedside

Relaxing notes are always top bath time picks – these include lavender, eucalyptus and frankincense.

Did you know you they are also great to pair with wine? tables? I can assume everyone straight away thinks of lavender. I also suggest vanilla, vetiver, neroli and chamomile for a sweet dreams. It’s always nice to try and create your unique ‘smell’ in your bedroom.

To impress your partner (or lover), why not consider a romantic scented candle?

Compared to the price of a bunch of flowers, which can usually last only days, sometimes weeks, a 250ml candle offers a cost-effective alternative. These can have a burn time of more than 50 hours.

Lighting up a candle in hourly intervals, or every few hours, will provide a scent that lasts far longer than a bouquet.

Rose and jasmine are classic scents – you can’t go wrong with these as a special gift. Peony, lily of the valley, freesia or osmanthus add extra scores because they are unique scents, not found in your common candle. Champagne notes are a new trend. These all work quite well if you plan to spend a weekend evening together or cook an intimate meal just for two. Top tip - trim the wick, as you don’t want the soot and smoke or an ‘oversized’ flame to ruin your night.

The smartest idea of picking candles I have ever heard is to go by seasons. It’s like enjoying fresh food for each season - simply pick what’s relevant for now. Another good tip I picked up is to select a scent that reminds you the places you enjoy visiting.

Before electricity, we had candles as necessity. Today, burning candles has become a thing of style. To me, it is still a necessity! We cannot buy happiness, but hey, we can always buy a candle.

@icybutterfly in her recent ModelCo unboxing video RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021 |91

BRAND NEWS

L’Oréal Paris x Elie Saab makeup collection launches L’Oréal Paris has partnered with Lebanese fashion designer Elie Saab to launch a limited edition makeup collection. Delphine Viguier-Hovasse, L’Oréal Paris Global Brand President, said the partnership was more than just a fashion collaboration. “The launch of this collection during such unprecedented times will be a way for L’Oréal Paris and Elis Saab to bring optimism, beauty and self-worth; an accessible way for every woman to indulge in a little escapism and experience the strength that comes from beauty,” she said. Elie Saab said his goal has always been to make women look beautiful. “This collection allows me to bring an array of products to fit into women’s lives; helping them to feel more elegant and confident in their everyday,” he said. The L’Oréal Paris x Elie Saab makeup collection is available exclusively at Chemist Warehouse. www.lorealparis.com.au

innisfree Australia opens online store After huge demand from customers, the new innisfree e-commerce store has launched. Innisfree, owned by Amore Pacific, offers beauty solutions powered by 12 key natural ingredients found in Korea’s pristine Jeju Island’s land, sea, water, trees and flowers. Due to its volcanic origins, the island has a unique ecosystem, with ginseng and green tea being key to its skincare, makeup and body care ranges. Nikki Novakovic, Marketing & Communications Manager, innisfree Australia, said the new online shop allowed all Australians to access the unique products. “Since 2018, innisfree has opened 12 stores in Australia, with the online platform the next step for our brand,” she said. “The opening of a local e-commerce platform means innisfree customers can shop best sellers from all over the country and be a part of the innisfree community directly.” The new site offers free shipping with purchases over $65 and free samples with every order. www.innisfreeaustralia.com.au

Chanel No 5 celebrates 100 years Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle may have knocked it off the top perch in leading markets such as the US, the UK, France and Australia. But Chanel No 5 still breasts the tape as the number one selling prestige fragrance of the past century.

Officially launched on May 5, 1921 - the fifth day of the fifth month - the iconic fragrance celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. French movie star, Marion Cotillard, was appointed as the 14th famous face to front the celebrated juice last year, following in the footsteps of Nicole Kidman, Catherine Deneuve and Brad Pitt, the only male to star in a campaign for the venerable juice.

But Chanel No 5 is famous for its list of firsts, as befits its superstar status.

• The first fragrance to be imagined by a woman for women • The first “modern abstract” fragrance because of its high percentage of aldehydes, which helped its floral ingredients such as May rose and jasmine linger for hours.

• The first fragrance to be named after a female designer • The first fragrance to be advertised on TV For true fans, the Chanel No 5 2020 Holiday Collection was an even deeper dive into the love affair with five body products No 5 shower gel, body lotion, body cream, deodorant and hair mist. www.chanel.com/au/fragrance

Ardell launches Aqua Lash collection Take a dip into the future with Ardell’s greatest innovation yet.

Ardell, distributed by Frostbland in Australia since 2009, has launched the first water-activated striplash on the market. The new lashes are designed to give users stunning lashes in seconds – without glue. Thanks to a patent-pending, water-activated band, no additional adhesive is needed, which makes them perfect for beginners or anyone in a rush. All that is needed is a splash of H20, and the water activated band turns into the adhesive, making false lash application easier than ever. The range includes six new styles. www.ardellshop.com

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BRAND NEWS

Hair Rituel by Sisley launches La Crème These days, most hair heat-styling tools go up to 230 degrees Celsius – even though any temperature above 200 degrees Celsius typically causes damage to the hair. The use of these tools, especially on a daily basis, weakens the hair fibre and deteriorates its vitality. Which is why Hair Rituel by Sisley is launching La Crème 230 in June. To celebrate the launch, media were invited to have a personalised hair consultation at Blaec salon in Woolloomooloo with April Roberts, Sisley Paris National Trainer Australia & NZ. April talked through the benefits of La Crème 230, saying that part of the technology used to create the product draws used two ionic polymers that could actively repair under the effect of heat. The “pretty powerful formula of the 230 Complex” transformed “flash drying from styling into flash repair”, April said. “Not only does the formula defend the fibre against the repeated effects of heat up to 230°C by surrounding the hair in an undetectable, ultralight protective barrier, it also limits the degradation of keratin.” April said the formula could be used every day on the hair, even without the use of tools, as the micro-gel repaired the hair in two essential steps, leaving the the damaged parts sealed and the breakage repaired, leaving the hair fibre glossy again. Hair Rituel by Sisley La Crème 230 will be on counter from June 6 and retails for AUD$125 / NZD$135 for 150ml. Available in Australia at selected David Jones stores nationally and online, in New Zealand at David Jones Wellington and Newmarket, Smith & Caugheys Queen St Auckland and online. www.sisley-paris.com

La Roche-Posay launches eBoutique Australian consumers can now enjoy purchasing La Roche-Posay products online.

The dermatologically recommended skincare brand, part of the growing L’Oreal Active Cosmetics division, was founded in 1921. The Société des Thermes de La Roche-Posay became the first thermal station in Europe exclusively dedicated to the treating of dermatological diseases. The brand’s shoppable digital platform engages customers with skincare insights including informative product descriptions, ingredient benefits, and expert dermatologist driven tips to create and maintain healthy, radiant-looking skin. www.laroche-posay.com.au

Agencie+ focuses on A-beauty Agencie+ is a boutique B2B national sales agency based on the lower North Shore representing 13 distinctive, high-performance, international and Australian beauty brands. Managing Director Margo Woolcott said the when the company relaunched last year, it had “a single-minded plan for only representing a handful of distinctive, high performance, wellbranded retail and professional products – with a focus on skincare and colour”. In hindsight, we expected them to have international origins, and to be brands that we could immerse ourselves in, and in time build into mainstream household staples, as we have done before, she said. “But, as the saying goes, ‘Life is what happens to you while you’re busy making other plans’, and unintentionally Agencie+ pivoted to attracting A-beauty, natural, organic, vegan brands or a combination thereof.” Margo said some remained international and well known, but most were Australian owned and made.

“Today we have 13 brands in our portfolio – some are start-ups, some are in their growth infancy, while others are established and well on their way to becoming power brands, such as Lük Beautifood, which is on the verge of becoming our first milliondollar brand,” she said.

“So, what makes Agencie+ and its brands an ideal partner to help your business grow and profit? Quite simply, it has a very clear vision, and that is to work closely with our retail and professional accounts to jointly deliver measurable and mutual success, smartly and differently.”

Agencie+ currently distributes Wrinkles Schminkles, The Castilian Soap Company, Tabitha James Kraan, premium tanning range Spraytoniqs, Ooh! Oils of Heaven, vegan, and paraben-free makeup brand Mellow Cosmetics, Make-Up Studio Amsterdam, Lük Beautifood, Founder’s Formula, Dermatonics, male skincare brand Charles+Lee, Can Gro and Balm Balm. www.agencieplus.com.au

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BRAND NEWS

Vanity Group partners with Karl Lagerfeld for luxury hotel amenities In business since 2011, Vanity Group is a company dedicated to elevating hotel amenities.

They represent some of the most respected retail brands in the industry, including Balmain and Kevin Murphy, and have announced a partnership with Karl Lagerfeld.

Under the agreement, Vanity Group will supply an exclusive line of Karl Lagerfeld skincare and haircare amenities to high end hotels around the globe.

The late Karl Lagerfeld, who passed away two years ago, was one of the fashion industry’s most decorated designers, having helmed Chanel since 1983.

He designed Chanel’s ready-to-wear and couture lines, his own label, and collaborated with Silvia Fendi to create Fendi’s ready-to-wear collections.

The premium collections offered as part of the exclusive partnership are true to the ethos of the celebrated brand, balancing timeless and contemporary style and taking inspiration from Parisian classics. The two collections include Agrumes et Vétiver, which combines top notes of citrus fruits with warm base notes of vetiver wood and musk to create a refreshing earthy scent, while Mûrier et Santal is a deep and evocative scent tinged with hints of red berries for a splash of fruity notes that are balanced with creamy musk and sandalwood.

Luxury hotels globally can take advantage of the two collections to create an environment of rock-chic glamour.

The program will be available only to the world’s most prestigious hotels and resorts, by invitation only.

Global marketing opportunities will also operate in conjunction with selected hotel partners. www.vanitygroup.com

YSL launches new and improved Touche Éclat Le Teint Personalisation is a big focus for YSL Beauty. At the 2021 CES show, the L’Oréal-owned luxury brand showcased the Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Sur Mesure, a gadget which allows consumers to customise lip shades. But lipstick isn’t the only product the company is personalising. YSL held an exclusive cocktail party at Sydney’s Beta Bar to launch the new and improved Touche Éclat Le Teint. “Touche Éclat’s upgraded formula is infused with the mallow natural ingredient from the YSL Beauté Ourika Community Gardens, that protects skin and contributes to flawless glow,” Caroline Nègre, YSL Beauté International Scientific Director, said. At the event YSL Beauty Australia National Education Manager Bianca said the cult foundation provided the same makeup finish and texture with 30 shades across four different colour families to adapt to different skin tones: fair, light, medium, deep.

Each illuminating shade is also enhanced with SPF22/PA++ protection, she said, and the revised formula provided the same weightless glow and flawless coverage. The packaging has had a makeover and now comes in a graphic bottle, with square corners that matches Encre de Peau All Hours Foundation. www.yslbeauty.com.au 94| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2021

Australia’s first fragranced moisturising sanitiser debuts Shmoist is an Australianfirst fragranced and moisturising sanitiser.

Co-founders Dionne Taylor and Tracey Hirschhorn spotted a gap in the sanitiser market during the Covid-19 crisis.

With sanitising a daily ritual for everyone, and a habit that’s here to stay, there was an opportunity to create a product that not only provides a safe sanitising solution but a beautifully smelling and moisturising one, too, says Taylor.

“Shmoist has come to market to up the cool factor in sanitising and improve on the two most common complaints people have about sanitiser - the smell and the drying factor on our skin.

Each Shmoist product is made from 80 per cent ethanol and the formulation is based on the WHO’s formulation to ensure it protects against 99.9 per cent of germs.

“We wanted to create a sanitiser that becomes part of our everyday beauty regime, much like the way we use perfume. The Scmoist capsule collection includes six curated fragrances for onthe-go sanitising.”

The fragrances incorporate citrus, herbal, floral, sweet and sea breeze scents - Eau.M.G, Saw Bae, Rose Aye, Daily Rind, Down Under and Sweet Spot. The 38ml containers provide 500+ sprays and are priced at $24.95, including delivery. www.shmoist.com

Retail Beauty asked the Beauty Advisors and Counter Managers: “How do you deepen your relationships with regular customers?”

As the retail landscape shifts from Covid-19, there has never been a more important time for strong customer relationships. We find out how those on the shop floor deepen their connection with the consumer.

BEAUTY & THE BEST

Building customer relations

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Cath Maddigan Clinique Store: Myer City: Maroochydore, QLD With 15 years of experience with Clinique, my passion is to make a positive impact on my customers. I live by the motto ‘always treat people the way you would like to be treated’, which enhances every customer experience. The ‘three C’s’ is the recipe I use to create, build and maintain longlasting relationships with my customers.

Connect - It all starts with the connection you build with your customers, from first impressions to long-lasting friendships. I strive to create great first impressions by upholding a high level of professionalism and greeting my customers with a warm smile and positive energy. I establish genuine interactions by building trust, listening, and ensuring that my customers feel comfortable and heard.

Communicate - Asking the right questions and actively listening, can go a long way. I enquire about my customer’s lifestyle, current product usage and skin care goals. Then, I educate them with product knowledge and demonstrations to help them get the best results from their skincare and makeup routines.

Care - Taking special care with the customer’s needs, sets a solid foundation for long-lasting relationships. I ensure that each of my customers have a feel-good experience by going the extra mile. For instance, I provide them with new products to sample at home, which gives me the opportunity to learn what they loved about the product on their next visit.

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Aanchal Chaudry Sisley Store: David Jones City: Malvern, VIC I strengthen my relationships with my customers by acknowledging their presence, listening to their needs, and establishing a connection with them. I endeavour to work with them as a team and we work together towards achieving their skincare goals and achieving their desired results. I pick up with the customer from when they last visited, and this builds a relationship together and helps us to take it further into their journey of investment of their time and resources. When they visit my counter, my goal is to provide a great consultation experience, giving them my full attention so they not only can get great results but also feel very valued in the whole process. I give my customers the very best of service, by giving a thorough consultation, uncovering their current routine and their true needs, I can then make my recommendations to suit and benefit them. It’s all about being present and giving each customer interaction the attention and focus they deserve. Giving every customer this attention, gives them trust in my recommendations, and furthers strengthens my relationships with them, which in turn drives results and builds their loyalty to my counter.

Carolyn Rimmer Pharmacy Guild of Australia & ACP (Australasian College of Pharmacy), QLD I have had more than 20 years’ experience working in pharmacy and have also spent time being a rep for Avène before starting my new role with the Pharmacy Guild of Australia. The best way to deepen relationships with customers is to make them feel important, like they are part of the family. It’s one thing to know the customer’s name but it’s another to know their favourite perfume or their grandchild’s name. By taking the time to chat with your customers you can find out more about them and what makes them happy and perhaps what doesn’t. This then means when they enter your store they feel safe, they feel like they are with family and in turn will then show you loyalty by returning again and again for years to come. The feeling of when they bring a relative, for example their child into your store and introduce you to them, the customer’s face lights up when you are able to tell that child how you have heard all about them and it is lovely to meet them. That customer’s child has also now become a part of your store’s family. Customers are important and so are those deep, long-lasting relationships you can build with them.

The best way to deepen relationships with customers is to make them feel important, like they are part of the family. It’s one thing to know the customer’s name but it’s another to know their favourite perfume or their grandchild’s name.

BEAUTY & THE BEST Ultimately, I always aim to have my customer walk out of our store with a smile on their face, feeling more beautiful and galvanised with knowledge than when they walked in. This is a winning combination in having them return with that same smile eager for another great experience.

Daniel Cater MAC Cosmetics Store: Broadway City: SYDNEY, NSW I find that meeting my returning customers on their level and employing a combination of empathy and warmth helps them to open up and create a greater understanding of their needs. To really take an interest in their lives beyond what they are potentially shopping for and openly listening to their concerns and needs creates trust and deepens that connection. I always operate on the ethos that kindness is free and I think people sense that. I also want to create a safe space where the people can enjoy the experience of exploring our range and helping them remember that makeup is fun and about self-empowerment, no matter what their level of experience. I often find laughter is a beautiful tool in disarming people and breaking the formal barrier that can often exist between a salesperson and a customer.

Kelly Ryan Community Pharmacy Store: Thorneside Pharmacy City: BRISBANE, QLD I have been in community pharmacy as a pharmacy assistant for 30 years with most of my roles lasting six years or more.

My current position I have been in for 18 years so, as you can imagine; I really have gotten to know my customers. That’s what I love most about my position, the unbelievable friendships I have built with customers. I love being a helping hand, making the most out of their experience in my store, reassuring them that this

is a place of compassion and healing.

I encourage customers to return and make a point to reach out when they’re in need and educate my staff to do the same; if I don’t serve them I’m assured they will receive the same treatment from my staff. I have to say through my years in pharmacy, listening is the most important thing to deepen your customers’ relationships. Going beyond faces and learning names, getting to know your customer’s story and even about their family creates an emotional foundation for your relationship. We offer above and beyond service providing quality products that work, keeping them updated with stock supply and offering special orders. Constructive criticism is openly welcome in our suggestion box and we take action as soon as possible. Similar with complaints and product returns, I will not give up until my customer is 100% satisfied. We endeavour to ever improve our service and relationships with customers every day to keep the relationships we’ve worked so hard for.

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INFLUENCER

Have you met...

RAE MORRIS

Renowned as one of the most influential makeup artists in the world, Rae Morris is not only a number one best-selling author, but also four times Australian Makeup Artist of the Year, the longest serving Makeup Director for L’Oreal Paris (2003-2013) and has been inducted into multiple Halls of Fame. The Brisbane born beauty shares her top tips and tricks, and why she “can’t deal” with metallic lipstick.

By Michelle Ruzzene

Rae Morris’ book Makeup Masterclass.

HOW DID YOU GET INTO MAKEUP?

YOUR ADVICE TO BUDDING MAKEUP ARTISTS?

Naomi Campbell started my career. Accidentally. I was a hairdresser and I got asked to touch up her lipstick at the Model of the World pageant in Istanbul in 1993 after she had a ‘disagreement’ with her makeup artist. I was photographed doing her makeup by the paparazzi . Next thing I knew, my picture was plastered all over the tabloids and my makeup career had officially begun – I was booked out as a makeup artist!

It’s important what you surround yourself with creatively. Look at only the world’s best artists and content. Become the best makeup artist you can possibly be and forget social media and likes. Be patient. From the time you pick up a brush, you will need minimum five years’ practice before you get paid as an artist.

01.

Extra moisturiser. Lots of it! Brow mascara, eyelash mascara and a multi-use cheek and lip tint. My favourite is the Trinny London Lip2Cheek in Veebee, which is a summer sunset coral shade that is great for pale skin.

And always the Rae Morris Invisible Mattifier. Not only does it have a mattifying, but is made from medical grade silicone, so protects your skin from things like windburn.

WHERE DID YOU LEARN YOUR SKILLS?

I was trained by the legendary late Richard Sharah, who was David Bowie’s makeup artist. He was often described as the ‘Picasso’ of the makeup world.

WHAT DOES A TYPICAL DAY LOOK LIKE?

Every single day is SO different. There used to be some form of continuity. But these days I do everything - from working with and educating plastic surgeons and dermatologists to launches, writing books, designing brushes, shooting editorially, cleaning out my makeup kit, being a mum - and sitting in a corner crying because I am so tired!

02.

MOST REWARDING PART OF THE JOB?

03.

THE WORST MAKEUP FAUX PAS?

The creative side – especially when I shoot beauty editorials and see them published. But everything I do, I do because I love it. It’s not money that motivates me, it’s the creative aspect.

Shimmer where there’s fine lines involved – shimmer will just enhance them.

Metallic lipstick – can’t deal with it. If you have wrinkled or lined lips, shimmery, glittery or metallic lip shades will just make them look way wrinklier.

And another thing with glittery lipstick – as soon as the gloss dries, the glitter has nothing to stick to and therefore falls all over your face.

YOUR TOP MAKEUP TIPS?

IF YOU WEREN’T IN BEAUTY, WHERE WOULD WE FIND YOU?

My dream job would be a forensic psychiatrist. Or a travel reviewer. But only for seven-star hotels.

01. Rae Morris touches up Retail

YOUR BEAUTY ICON?

02. Naomi Campbell kickstarted

It has to be Julia Roberts. She has the most gorgeous smile, and she ages gracefully.

03. Trinny London Lip2Cheek

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YOUR GO-TO WINTER BEAUTY LOOK?

Beauty editor Michelle Ruzzene’s makeup using Trinny London products Rae’s career in makeup. in Veebee.

Know when to put the brush down.

Don’t ever lighten or bleach facial hair - just remove it.

If you want to look youthful, put your blush higher.

Bigger lips aren’t necessary youthful. When we age the corners of the lips sag, however lips look more youthful when they are lifted in the outer bottom corners. To make a lip look youthful, when applying lipstick to the bottom lip, always cut up before the lip corner – think of maintaining a ‘U’ shape. www.raemorris.com

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