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ORGANIC DRINKS: ALL NATURAL OPTIONS

All Natural options

September is National Organic Month, a period to highlight organic producers across a range of industries.

Caoimhe Hanrahan-Lawrence investigates what the liquor industry has to offer.

The interest in organics has been on the rise in recent years, as both consumers and producers are becoming more conscious of their impacts on the environment. Simply put, organic products have had no contact with artificial fertilisers and chemicals throughout the growing and production journey.

The Indian Running Ducks in Angove’s organic vineyards.

The organic sector is particularly promising for wine. Amid declines in purchase volume and cost, organic wine saw 5.2 per cent total category growth in 2022. Additionally, Wine Australia has reported that organic wine has the highest opportunity index score of alternative wines, closely followed by sustainability. Wine drinkers who are opting for organic wines are more likely to be millennials, according to Wine Intelligence, which indicates that the sector will continue to grow with this younger adult market.

Though organic wine is the largest part of the organic drinks market, a number of beer, cider, and spirits producers are beginning to make the shift to organic or starting new organic businesses from the ground up. As more of these products become available, consumers will undoubtedly seek out these growing parts of the category.

Why organic?

Organic drinks are the meeting point of the sustainable and ‘better-for-you’ trends, as Hill-Smith Family Estates Senior Winemaker Heather Fraser explained. Consumers are choosing organic drinks both because they are conscious of the environmental impact of their purchases, but also because they are conscious of what they are putting into their bodies.

“As consumers become more concerned regarding where their drinks come from and what they are made of organic drinks offer a clean, chemical free alternative where the customers have reassurance of what they are purchasing,” Fraser said.

With major interests in vineyards across South Australia, the links to the land are as strong as ever and the desire to protect and improve this finite natural resource is driving much of the development of the Angove brand.

-Matt Redin, Marketing Manager, Angove

“Generally, consumers are choosing organic drinks as they like the knowledge that these have been made without the use of pesticides and herbicides and are considered to be made with fewer sulphites that conventional wines. Organics are a part of the bigger sustainability picture with sustainable vineyards the first step in the process for becoming organic,” she added.

Julie Mortlock, Senior Winemaker at De Bortoli, expects this trend to continue to grow.

“Already we are seeing growth in the sales of our organic wines as more people are concerned about climate change and taking more notice of sustainability and the future, which includes what we put into our bodies. This will only continue to grow as more organic wine and produce become available more freely and affordable to many more people,” she noted.

Taste is also a deciding factor for organic-oriented consumers. For Pat Garnham, Senior Marketing Manager at Willie Smith’s, the shift to organic has resulted in a better-quality product.

“Part of our philosophy is working with mother nature and trusting that in return we’ll get the tastiest apples around,” Garnhan described.

The Willie Smith’s apple orchard

“Consumers stick with what tastes best, and organic just tastes better. We find that our customers really value the connection to our organic farm where we grow, crush, ferment and make our beverages,” he added.

Nil Desperandum’s Jack O’Neill echoed the sentiment.

“Organic farming by its very nature is lower yielding and more flavoursome than modern intensive farming. You simply can’t over farm the limited amount of land being used to grow sugar cane by the use of chemicals,” O’Neill explained.

As well as benefits in product quality, consumers can connect with the terroir of their drink. Ultimately, offering an organic range builds dedicated customers, and enhances the brand’s story.

“Consumers are becoming more and more loyal to brands that have a clear reason for being and authenticity, as well as the traceability of the products they buy,” said Sarah Szegota, Global Marketing and Communications Manager at Villa Maria.

From a producer’s perspective, the primary reason to go organic is because of concerns for the environment. For Matt Redin, Marketing Manager at Angove, organic viticulture both protects the land on which the grapes are grown and ensures that viticulture will be possible in the region for years to come.

“With major interests in vineyards across South Australia, the links to the land are as strong as ever and the desire to protect and improve this finite natural resource is driving much of the development of the Angove brand,” Redin said.

Nil Desperandum Head Distiller Adam Chapman

De Bortoli’s Mortlock emphasised the importance of organic viticulture for muilti-generational businesses.

“Today the fourth generation runs the winery and vineyards with a key driving force to make the business and vineyards sustainable for the future De Bortoli generations. One of the keys to making this a success

was the movement towards sustainable and biological farming practices that deliver exceptional fruit quality and real environmental benefits,” she explained.

As well as the environmental benefits, organic agriculture has several other upsides, such as increased workplace safety. Due to the reduction in chemicals, Angove’s vineyard workers are now working in a safer environment.

“Our vineyard crews talk about the freedom of working in Certified Organic vineyards, free of the usual masks, gloves and protective gear used to protect workers against synthetic pesticides, herbicides and fertilisers,” said Redin.

Media moments

Organic products can have unexpected moments in the limelight. Nil Desperandum received widespread attention because the waste and dunder produced when distilling rum is being used as a dietary supplement for organic beef and dairy cattle.

“This beautiful story of sustainability that has attracted national and international media coverage. They sure are happy cows,” said O’Neill. By knowing when a brand or product is in the news, retailers can capitalise on consumers’ interest.

The stamp of approval

Though consumers are seeking out environmentally friendly and organic options, they are always wary of companies making false claims. In Australia, brands are able to market themselves as organic without certification, which can be confusing to consumers.

“It is extremely frustrating that Australian labelling laws have not followed the lead of other countries and stipulated that to use the word organic as part of a brand name the product must be certified,” said Redin.

For this reason, the producers that spoke to National Liquor News emphasised the importance of certification schemes. Australian Certified Organic (ACO) provides the most widely recognised Australian organic certification, and is identified by its bud logo.

As consumers become more concerned regarding where their drinks come from and what they are made of organic drinks offer a clean, chemical free alternative where the customers have reassurance of what they are purchasing.

-Heather Fraser, Senior Winemaker, Hill-Smith Family Estates

“We’re lucky that in Australia we have strong processes in place for accreditation and the Australian Certified Organic process is one of the best, if not the best, in the world. We really value this as it ensures that consumers can trust those products which are certified,” Garnham said.

O’Neill put it simply: “If it’s not Australian Certified Organic, it’s not organic.”

ACO certification is a rigorous process with regular re-certification requirements, meaning that customers can really trust the claims of an ACO certified brand.

“For our vineyards, this involves a three-year conversion process where soil is tested annually to ensure there are no residual chemicals. Post the inconversion period, our growers and wineries must undergo yearly audits to retain certification and adhere to the strict standards set by the governing organisations,” said Fraser.

Redin spoke to the importance of certification to the Angove team.

“We see it as a real symbol of the authenticity of our organic status and dedication to being truly organic rather than just making the claim. We know that we, and other certified organic producers, must go through rigorous testing and auditing to be able to display the bud logo so it is a symbol of the hard work of all involved to maintain our certified organic status,” he commented.

Certification simplifies the purchase and allows consumers to focus on other aspects of the drinks, such as varietal, region, or taste.

“Consumers want to learn about wine and experience different varieties. Because there are so many choices of wine, and the variety can be a bit daunting for consumers, it’s important to make the organic wine messaging simple. Highlighting that we have established accreditation, such as BioGro, gives consumers trust in the product and the process,” Szegota explained.

As customers have a greater awareness of what organic means, especially compared to more diverse terms such as ‘sustainable’ or ‘low intervention’, prominent signage and shelving organic drinks together can increase purchases in the sector.

Simple storytelling

As organic products cannot use chemicals or artificial fertilisers, producers are required to take innovative approaches while making their drinks. Fortunately, consumers can really connect with these stories, and build a strong loyalty to the brand.

Villa Maria’s organic journey has spanned more than two decades.

“We introduced organic principles in 1999 at a vineyard in Hawkes Bay. We didn’t yet have all the knowledge we needed, so it was a learning process to find the right tools to grow organically on such a large scale. After a lot of hard work, Villa Maria achieved the internationally recognised BioGro Organic Certification for a 21-hectare block in Hawkes Bay. Organics is a journey; our vineyard managers understand how to get the best from our vines and soils and have developed an in-depth knowledge of how to make our vineyards robust and resilient,” Szegota described.

It has also benefited the Villa Maria vineyards that are not certified organic, as some practices are being introduced to other vineyards.

“Many of these learnings we have carried through into all our viticulture practices and we have been reaping the benefits of fantastic biodiversity and health in our vineyards,” Szegota noted.

The Willie Smith’s Apple Shed

For vineyards with both organic and nonorganic vines, great care is taken to ensure that the organic vineyards are not contaminated by any chemicals used on other vines.

“The selection of vineyard sites are isolated from non-organic vineyards to avoid spray drift, and requires testing of the soil to determine if it meets the organic regulations. In the winery, we ensure that there is a checklist to maintain cleanliness of all equipment prior to processing organic fruit, then wine, so that it does not come into contact with non-organic material,” Mortlock explained.

There are many small-scale changes required in organic viticulture. At Angove, Indian Runner ducks roam the Warboys Vineyard, acting as an alternative, non-chemical method of snail control. The brand’s engineering department has also developed specially designed under vine mowers to control weeds, which is one of the largest challenges when it comes to organic farming. There are some benefits, however, as extensive under vine mulching has significantly reduced irrigation requirements.

In the world of organic cider, Willie Smith’s has been pioneering production.

Consumers are becoming more and more loyal to brands that have a clear reason for being and authenticity, as well as the traceability of the products they buy.

- Sarah Szegota, Global Marketing and Communications Manager, Villa Maria.

In the world of organic cider, Willie Smith’s has been pioneering production.

“Willie Smith’s was the first organic certified cidery in Australia. Our founder Andrew Smith made the move to organic apple farming nearly a quarter of a century ago, one of the first apple farms to do so in Australia. At the time people thought it was radical and a bit risky,” said Garnham.

“Willie Smith’s was the first organic certified cidery in Australia. Our founder Andrew Smith made the move to organic apple farming nearly a quarter of a century ago, one of the first apple farms to do so in Australia. At the time people thought it was radical and a bit risky,” said Garnham.

The organic sugar cane used in Nil Desperandum rum

The story is similar for Nil Desperandum, Australia’s first and only organic certified rum. A benefit of going organic is increased control over the production process, which is especially relevant as consumers are becoming more interested in the origins of their products.

“We know exactly where our sugar cane is grown, where our molasses is milled and that there are no chemicals in our rum. No other rum in Australia is Australian Certified Organic and very few rums in the world are certified organic,” O’Neill explained.

“From conception to implementation every aspect of our business has been considered and optimised to gain and maintain Australian Certified Organic accreditation. From the raw ingredients, to cleaning products to production methods and documentation,” he continued.

According to Szegota, consumers who are interested in organics want to hear more about the history and story of the brands and products they are purchasing. She expects this trend to increase as the organic sector gains more attention.

The Villa Maria Attorney Vineyard

“There will continue to be a place for organics to meet consumer demand. As we move forward, the wider sustainability story of a brand, alongside product innovation, will increasingly be important to consumers,” she said.

With significant growth over the past few years and many opportunities in organic spirits and beer, organic drinks remain a sector to watch.

“The future for organic wine is looking encouraging, with growth in the Australian market continuing,” Redin concluded.

Making the most of organics

1. Tap into trends of sustainability, better-for you, and premiumisation.

“We certainly want to see more organic products on the market. It’s great to see other larger producers following our lead and launching organic ciders. This really demonstrates that this is exactly what the consumer is demanding, drinking less but drinking better quality,” Garnham noted.

2. Highlight certification, as this increases consumer trust in the product and simplifies their purchase.

“People choose organic wine because of the authenticity of where the wine comes from, and the validity of the certification process in which all organic wines must abide by,” said Mortlock.

3. Encourage the trailblazers.

“[Being the only certified organic producer of Australian rum] is an incredible position to be in, as we field a growing number of domestic consumer and trade enquiries for a product that has a unique and compelling point of difference from others,” O’Neill enthused.

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