Hospitality September 2021

NO.776 SEPTEMBER 2021

Meet our hand-stretched Turkish range

Meet our hand-stretched Turkish range We start with a delicate, highly hydrated dough, that we ferment for longer than regular bread. Then we hand-stretch each roll and loaf to shape.

But the secret to our perfectly leavened bread is stone baking each loaf at a high heat, creating a distinctly open texture.

SOFT TURKISH ROUND LUNCH ROLL

SOFT TURKISH OVAL LUNCH ROLL

SOFT TURKISH PIDE

130g, 70 per carton

110g, 38 per carton

400g, 20 per carton

9423

9424

9420

12 Months frozen shelf-life

Available nationally

Freezer to table convenience

Thaw and serve

CONTACT YOUR LOCAL FOODSERVICE DISTRIBUTOR TO ORDER

www.t

iptop-foodse TIPTOP-FOODSERVICE.COM.AU rvice

.com.au

© Registered trade marks of George Weston Foods Limited. All rights reserved.

NO.776 SEPTEMBER 2021

LOBSTER • KYLIE JAVIER ASHTON • TRUFFLES • JOCK ZONFRILLO

CONTENTS // September

Contents SEPTEMBER 2021

8

Regulars 8 // IN FOCUS A new cutlery brand is changing the way we eat.

10 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more.

12 // PRODUCE Demand for local sweetsop is booming.

14 // COLUMN The perks of keeping things small.

16 // DRINKS Three bartenders on the martini.

4 | Hospitality

24

24 // PROFILE Kylie Javier Ashton reflects on Momofuku Seiobo.

54 // BEHIND THE SCENES Misono’s crispy tuna roll.

56 // EQUIPMENT Potato ricers are useful for more than just gnocchi.

58 // 5 MINUTES WITH …

Jock Zonfrillo.

44

Features 30 // LOBSTER Chefs and at-home diners are reaping the rewards of local lobsters.

38 // POUR OVER The original coffee-making technique is back.

44 // TEMPEH The Indonesian ingredient is packed full of unlocked potential.

50 // TRUFFLES Lockdowns have made 2021’s truffle season a memorable one.

Gluten free

Non GMO

The Lutosa classic cut fries are anything but ordinary.

Their layer of gluten-free starch coating keeps them hot and crunchy for a longer period of time. They are your perfect solution for take away dishes and home deliveries.

www.lutosa.com

Lutosa Pacific I Sydney New South Wales Australia I +61 427 00 6801 I pacific@lutosa.com I www.lutosa.com

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

WHERE THERE'S SMOKE ...

There’s Heston. Grill’d has teamed up with the chef on a limited burger range. @hospitalitymagazine

Keeping on THE PAST FEW months has put hospitality

to me about the closure of Momofuku Seiobo

professionals across multiple states in limbo

and what’s next for the front of house

once again. But as always, the industry is

professional, who has made huge strides for

supporting one another and pushing ahead.

a crucial workforce that’s often overlooked in

The ‘in this together’ mentality has kept the

the industry.

wheels in motion for many operators in spite of so much uncertainty.

A BALANCED APPROACH Carbonara and a Brussels sprouts salad (for health). @annabellecloros

This issue, Hospitality welcomes our new journalist Aristine Dobson, who has written

It’s something that’s evident in the

about an all-time classic cocktail (the

collaborative nature of many initiatives

martini, of course) and the return of pour-

we’re seeing. Fishermen were faced with the

over coffee. She also takes a deep-dive into

closure of a crucial export market last year

chefs making tempeh.

followed by restaurant lockdowns, leaving

I hope you enjoy this issue.

them with valuable produce to move.

I speak to Red Claw Seafoods and two

Until next time,

chefs about how they’re bringing a little

Annabelle Cloros

luxury to diners with lobster and keeping

Editor

CURLY CLASSIC Taking an old childhood treat to another level with Curly Wurly choc-chip cookies. @aristinedob

Follow us

fishermen in work. Kylie Javier Ashton chats

@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au ARISTINE DOBSON Journalist adobson@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

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DISCLAIMER This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2021 – The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd

6 | Hospitality

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Average Net Distribution Period ending September 2019 – 11,506

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IN FOCUS // Cutlery

8 | Hospitality

Product Designer Nicholas Johnston on Krof; a one-of-a-kind cutlery line.

WORDS Aristine Dobson THEY’RE THE VESSELS that transport

(for the spoon),” says Johnston. “It

notice a knife or a fork beyond picking

commercial environment.”

food to our mouths, but how often do you it up? Krof set out to change that when

also needs to be able to stand up in a The next stage entailed plenty of trial

they developed a premium range of eating

and error, starting off with sketching

dining experience.

CAD software. Ten rounds of 3D printing

utensils with a purpose: elevating the

Hospitality talks to Product Designer

Nicholas Johnston about why he decided to launch the brand, the creative process and the role cutlery can play in a restaurant environment.

Nicholas Johnston found the right partner for Krof in Melbourne Restaurateur

Kristian Klein. The pair saw a gap in

the market for cutlery with a point of

difference after Klein couldn’t find a brand that fit the bill.

In response to the dilemma, Johnston

considered the evolution of cutlery

throughout history, which would go on

to form the starting point for Krof’s first

collection. “Australians love eating beautiful food, but for some reason, the cutlery is

kind of forgotten or it’s just ordinary,” says the designer. “It used to be old English

silverware made with quality materials [according to] quality manufacturing

before moving to the utilisation of 3D

occurred before the desired scale and form was achieved. “We then set out to find a

quality we were looking for.”

“Cutlery is the most intimate product on the table: you’re looking at it; you’re picking it up with your hands and you’re putting it in your mouth. There are not many products on the table where you do that.”

– Nicholas Johnston Of course, it didn’t stop there; the

to gain input on how Krof could tweak

prototyping and was worked into the final development stages.

a fork enters the mouth. In addition to

Quality was next on the list, with high-

priority. “It has to be perfectly weighted

material of choice for the range. “It’s an

and balanced; it needs to function, it needs to have the right angle to prod something, the right serrations and the right volume

a bit more glam,” says Johnston. “It can

flex quite a bit in its style because I think it’s a fairly classic colour.”

and the RACV Cape Schanck Resort. Its

the pieces. The feedback was crucial for

visual aesthetics, practicality was a top

like a neutral coastal aesthetic or it can be

at least three before we found one with the

lightweight, sharp and generic looking.”

how a guest picks up a knife to the angles

you can dress it up and down. It can be

Krof has become the cutlery brand of

care and detail,” says Johnston. “We tried

cutlery was tested in Klein’s restaurants

The Krof team considered everything from

thus far. “It’s a classic look on the table;

manufacturer who appreciated our level of

methods. Then we landed on cheap metal stamped out in one piece that’s really

Even though polished steel is a timeless

classic, the gold set has been the best seller

choice among venues such as Mr Miyagi contemporary style and unique shape has added to the overall dining experience

and taken it to another level. Compared to other dinnerwares, Johnston believes cutlery might not be “the hero of the

table”, but it creates anticipation for the

meal to come. “Cutlery is the most intimate product on the table: you’re looking at it; you’re picking it up with your hands and

you’re putting it in your mouth,” he says.

“There are not many products on the table where you do that.”

An expansion of Krof’s range is in the

works, with Johnston planning on adding more items. “The cutlery was the starting

point to introduce our brand, and we think it’s fairly polarising in that it’s quick, slick

and minimal,” says the designer. “The next one might be bolder or it might be a bit less polarising. We’re working on some

other products, too, and hopefully many more to come.”

Cutlery is a daily fixture in our lives, yet

grade stainless steel selected as the

we very rarely stop to assess quality and

18/10 stainless-steel base material and the

launch of Krof is switching up the game,

colours are a titanium coating to get the gold and black finishes,” says Johnston.

the level of practicality it provides. The

encouraging venues to set the table a little differently from now on. ■

September 2021 | 9

IN FOCUS // Cutlery

Setting the table for success

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more.

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Milk-alternative coffee launches

Kepos to go

Coffee beans for alternative milks are now available from

Kepos Street Kitchen in Sydney’s Redfern is serving up takeaway covering

Bastion Lane Espresso. Alt is ideal for soy, almond, oat,

all the major meals (including all-important snacks) from 8am until 3pm

macadamia and coconut milks and has a smooth acidity

daily. The eatery’s signature pitas are on offer, with an extensive deli

which ensures splitting doesn’t occur during the coffee-

selection including everything from vegetarian moussaka and marinated

making process. Alt sees organic beans from Peru hand-

whole chicken to salads, falafel, dips and more.

roasted in a post office in Uki, New South Wales. Beans

keposstreetkitchen.com.au

start at $15. bastionlane.com

Photography by Kitti Gould

Popping good fun Koko Black has ventured into the snack market with the creation of a new chocolate-covered popcorn range. There are four flavourways in the collection including Pop Goes the Milk (honey-glazed with milk chocolate); Popped in the Dark (54 per cent dark chocolate over candied popcorn); Goldie Pop (caramelised white chocolate over sweetened popcorn) and Berry Poppins (berry-infused white chocolate over honey popcorn). The boxes are $17.90 each or available in a hamper which also includes Koko’s dark hot cocoa and caramelised coconut Dotties. kokoblack.com

10 | Hospitality

The Dessert Game Reynold Poernomo Murdoch Books; $36.99 KOI Dessert Bar and MasterChef Australia alum Reynold Poernomo has penned a cookbook that celebrates all things sugar. The Dessert Game is split up into three levels according to difficulty, with recipes covering everything from a classic crème caramel to the ultimate praline tart and Poernomo signatures White Noise and Magic Mushrooms. There are also choose-your-own flavour flowcharts, substitution options and equipment tips. The book is officially released on 2 November 2021. murdochbooks.com.au

Moon Dog’s Magic IPA A new West Coast IPA has joined Moon Dog’s range. The Magic EyePA is dry hopped with Citra, Eureka and Talus, resulting in a flavour profile with pine and citrus notes. The orange-hued brew sits at 7 per cent ABV and is available by the can or in four or 12 packs. moondogbrewing.com.au Photography by Samantha Schultz

$228 steak sandwich lands at Niku Ou Melbourne’s Niku Ou by WagyuYa is serving up a steak sandwich with an impressive price tag. The A5 Kobe Wagyu chateaubriand steak sando features two katsu-style slices of beef sprinkled with edible gold flakes sandwiched between two slices of bread for $228. There are two other sando options including full-blood Wagyu tenderloin ($98) and Japanese A5 Omi Wagyu tenderloin ($132).

Whiskey bitters from Melbourne The Gospel Distillers have created a new form of bitters under the sub-label The Dispensary. The bitters have a Solera rye whiskey base that is steeped with orange peel, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, vanilla, star anise and other botanicals, resulting in an ideal companion for cocktails such as an Old Fashioned as well as other whiskey-forward options. $19 for 100ml. thegospelwhiskey.com September 2021 | 11

NEWS // Entrée

Playing for sweets

PRODUCE // Sweetsop

High in energy and vitamin C Some farms have up to 2,000 trees

There are more than 130 growers in the country

Most commonly consumed raw

Most widely grown of all the Has a custard-

species of the

like flesh

Annona

Most common varieties are green or red

Australia produces around 830,000kg pieces of fruit per year

12 | Hospitality

PRODUCE // Sweetsop

Sweetsop A scaly rind conceals a custard-like core.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros Origins

Sweetsop is ready to harvest when it turns green.

Sweetsop is known by the scientific name Annona

The segments also come apart as the fruit ripens to

squamosa and is also referred to as a sugar apple

reveal the flesh, which is an indication of ripeness

or pinha. The fruit is from the Annonaceae family

along with the seeds changing from light brown to

and is native to the West Indies and tropical

almost black. The fruit is extremely delicate and

America. It’s believed it was brought to Asia by

should be cut at the stem with a sharp knife or

Spanish traders in the Philippines and it is now

pruning shears to ensure the tree is not damaged.

widespread throughout northern Queensland, which has one of the largest breeding programs in

Appearance and flavour profile

the world. There are many variations of sweetsop,

Sweetsop is spherical-conical in shape and can

with India home to 10 different types and local

weigh up to 250g. It has a thick, scaly rind covered

producers working on new commercial varieties.

in knobbly segments that conceal a creamy white/ light yellow flesh that is segmented and resembles

Growth and harvest

custard. The juicy, fragrant flesh is filled with as

Sugar apples require tropical or near-tropical

many as 40 brown-black seeds that are arranged

climates to thrive. They need heavy loam with good

in a single layer around the core. The flavour is

drainage, but do well in most soil types. Trees are

described as minty, milky or custardy.

commonly grown from seed and should be planted horizontally with enough distance between each

Culinary applications and storage

seed. The germination rate is low and can take

While sweetsop is most commonly consumed raw, it

around 30 days.

is a popular dessert option across multiple cuisines.

The evergreen plant grows between 3-6m tall

In Malaysia, it’s turned into ice cream and it can

and has an open crown of irregular branches.

be combined with sugar, water and cardamom to

Oblong, deciduous leaves have an aromatic scent

make a milk/juice beverage. It is very popular in

and can grow up to 15cm long. The flowers are

Jamaica where it’s added to custards, ice creams

typically solitary, but can grow in groups of up

and milkshakes.

to four. They have a green exterior and a cream

The fruit has a short shelf life and should be

interior with six petals. It can take five years for

consumed quickly. It only keeps for a couple of days

trees to fruit, with the produce becoming smaller as

at room temperature, but can be refrigerated to

the tree ages.

increase longevity. ■ September 2021 | 13

COLUMN // Humble on Duke

Jade Tareha and Stacey Conner

Humble beginnings Working in a small space comes with its challenges, but the owners of Humble on Duke wouldn’t have it any other way.

WORDS Stacey Conner and Jade Tareha PHOTOGRAPHY Oran Hassidim I’VE [STACEY] WORKED in so many

course of a couple of days. She’ll have a

weeks where we will not pay ourselves and

huge venues over the last 15 years, but

menu for a few weeks or change things

we’re so lucky to be in a position where

it was always a dream to focus on food,

weekly, so there’s less wastage. We try to

my parents can help us or come in and do

genuine hospitality and to share a story

be as sustainable as possible and take our

a couple of shifts. At the moment, people

with customers. I wanted it to be about me

artisan producers into consideration.

don’t want to eat out in Noosa on Sunday

cooking again and having front of house really connect with guests.

It’s just Jade and myself, and we always

and Monday. So they are the two nights that

Because we’re small, we

wanted Humble on Duke to be this small

literally know who’s coming

because we wanted to limit the amount of

through the door. Everyone

people involved. The more people you have, the more your own story gets lost.

Originally, we were like, ‘Imagine if we

says they feel like they’re in our home. – Jade Tareha

could have an eight-seater restaurant and have dinner parties like we used to do at

are quieter, but we know once we’ve filled those up, we’ll be happy and have money.

It’s probably the only restriction along with having to say no to people. We try not to when they come in and we are booked out. We’ll always try and be like, ‘Okay, let’s do something’, but for us, service needs to be impeccable.

There’s an element of creativity for her

There’s a reason why we named the

home’. But the location we are in (Sunshine

and for me [Jade] in front of house. I’m

restaurant Humble on Duke and it’s because

Beach, Queensland) isn’t quite ready for such

really getting into a rhythm with the wine list

we’re unpretentious about service. Quite a

a small, intimate venue, so we made it 14

and there are so many beautiful Australian

few people say, ‘I’ve never been greeted like

seats. It’s very tiny, but sometimes we have to

winemakers and vineyards. I think being small

that at a restaurant’, which is really nice.

make it 12 or 13 depending on what the table

gives us the freedom to do that.

Because we’re small, we literally know who’s

numbers are.

Stacey can change the menu over the 14 | Hospitality

People always say to us, ‘Our money’s in the numbers’, but there have been several

coming through the door. Everyone says they feel like they’re in our home. ■

TABASCO® Sauce Chef Jason Anderson serves up a modern take on a classic featuring TABASCO® Original Red Pepper Sauce.

JASON ANDERSON IS the head chef at Buffalo Bar in Brisbane, a restaurant that specialises in classic American dishes. Anderson’s innovative cooking style champions the use of hearty flavours including TABASCO® Original Red Pepper Sauce. The sauce is made with red peppers aged in oak barrels along with high-quality distilled vinegar and salt.

Inspired by food trends from the ’70s, Anderson blends his love for steak sandwiches and carpetbag steak in a contemporary surf and turf dish. “It’s a Black Opal Wagyu sirloin with a six-plus marble score which is grilled,” says the chef.

The sirloin is punctuated with an acidic side and a creamy sauce, resulting in a balanced flavour profile. “To add some sharpness in the dish, we make a salad with dill, house pickles, onions and soft herbs,” says Anderson. “We also smoke garlic and blend it through an aioli to give a bit of creaminess.”

The final component of the dish is a blowtorched oyster marinated in green peppercorn Worcestershire, TABASCO® Original Red Pepper Sauce and honey. “It’s sort of like a Kilpatrick mixed with a peppercorn sauce, but it’s made into more of a vinaigrette,” says Anderson. “I like to finish it off at the end by glazing the oyster with TABASCO® Original Red Pepper Sauce. As we all know, it’s a marriage made in heaven.” ■

Scan the code to watch how the dish is made

September 2021 | 15

ADVERTORIAL // TABASCO® Brand

Wagyu sirloin and oyster with

DRINKS // Martinis

Sophistication

in a glass No one knows exactly when the first martini was made, but the strides its taken since inception are unrivalled.

WORDS Aristine Dobson PHOTOGRAPHY DS Oficina for Maybe Sammy

THE MARTINI IS a drink that has stood the test

originally made with sweet vermouth and some

with local or imported spirits and served with an

martini,” says Madrusan. “But the martini as

of time. It can be wet, dry, dirty or filthy; made

olive or a citrus twist. It’s taken on various forms since its inception and is equally lauded for its simplicity and versatility.

Hospitality speaks to Maybe Mae’s Ollie

Margan, The Everleigh’s Michael Madrusan and Maybe Sammy’s Martin Hudak about the most

common iterations of the martini, their spirits of choice and tips to achieve a flawless execution.

would say the Martinez was actually the original we know it today with gin and dry vermouth is

probably the most popular recipe to hold true.”

When it comes to the foundational components of a martini, gin is the most favoured, with

vodka swapped in upon guest request. In the latter instance, the drink would be called a vodka martini.

Maybe Mae Co-Owner and Bartender Ollie

The martini is instantly recognisable; not only

Margan isn’t against using vodka, but says

comprises just two elements: dry vermouth and

definitely lean more towards classic-style gins,”

by its namesake glass, but by the clear elixir that gin or vodka.

The cocktail is perhaps the most foundational

in the bartending world, and like all the classics, it has a highly disputable origin story. Made in

the Shade Group Co-Owner Michael Madrusan is

gin lends itself better to the drink overall. “I

he says. “While you can make a lovely, clean,

textural drink with vodka, I prefer to have that

extra savoury, oily complexity you get with those high-juniper spirits.”

Maybe Sammy’s Martin Hudak prefers to

of the belief cocktail origins should be taken with

use Roku vodka when a customer calls for the

the martini’s birthday sits somewhere between

because we try to please everyone,” he says. “But

a grain of salt. The Everleigh bartender estimates 1860 and 1870. “When it comes to drinks like [the martini], there is no real definitive origin

of the drink itself,” he says. “Because they are so old, the origins are a bit murky.”

It’s quite possible the martini evolved from

the Martinez; a similar drink made with sweet vermouth. “Some would say the martini was 16 | Hospitality

spirit. “We make any drink as the guest requires

if you ask which one we make more of, we make more gin martinis than vodka martinis. We have around 30−40 different gins.”

Purists typically stock their bars with London

dry gins such as Beefeater and Tanqueray as

well as Plymouth, but the boom in local spirits has seen bartenders experiment with some

Never, Four Pillars, Archie Rose, Anther and Melbourne Gin Company are the

says Margan, who also stocks Margan dry vermouth at Maybe Mae.

most commonly used brands, but some

Executing the basics makes all the

their sleeve. Madrusan tips Cadenhead’s

martini and one that keeps guests coming

venues have a more unique offering up

Old Raj as his go-to, but it’s not easy to

get your hands on. “It’s quite a boozy gin and it has a really high proof, which I

absolutely love in a martini,” he says. “But it’s not widely known here; you have to find it in specialty stores.”

The vermouth is of equal importance

as the gin, with Noilly Prat and Dolin the

most prevalent at bars. “Dolin has a really clean, great profile with not too many

complicated aromatics; it just makes for a really nice, bright, gin-focused drink,”

difference between creating an average back. Temperature is a key pressure

point, with bartenders encouraged to chill

temperatures. “You want to keep them

frozen or in the fridge as much as you can,”

he says. “We use stainless-steel mixing tools because they hold temperature better than glass and the transfer of temperature is

faster, so your drink is going to get much colder faster when you’re stirring.”

Selecting the right ice is the next step

cocktail-making equipment to ensure a

to ensuring a constant chill. Madrusan is

everything as cold as humanly possible,”

a boutique hand-cut ice company. Navy

controlled process. “You’re looking to have says Margan. “You want your mixer —

whether it’s a stainless-steel cocktail shaker or a glass vessel — to be cold before you

put anything in it. Storing the glass in the

the brains behind Navy Strength Ice Co; Strength make ice with Clineblock ice

makers, which are globally recognised for producing unrivalled results.

The bartender favours the use of an

freezer is also a great idea.”

anchor block to get things started. “We

and stirring spoons to maintain low

dilution is a lot slower and there’s no gas,”

Hudak works with stainless-steel shakers

“The martini is the classiest cocktail ever; it’s constant.” – Martin Hudak

use very dense crystal-clear ice; its rate of

says Madrusan. “We use a large block to go down the middle first and it starts to chill the ingredients. Then we add more and more ice all the way to the top.”

Mardrusan also prefers to add the ice

to the spirits mix. “If you’re adding liquid over your ice, it’s already starting to melt Hudak uses dry sherry in place of vermouth to add saltiness and umami to his martini

and dilute and that gives you a lot less

control when you’re actually making the drink,” he says.

A drink that’s as straightforward as the

martini leaves plenty of room to venture beyond the foundational formula.

Different iterations see everything from

mini versions to the addition of herbs or alternate spirits.

Maybe Sammy has a dedicated martini

trolley, with bartenders mixing two

options for guests: a classic dry or an

Australian dirty martini. “In the Martini Australian, we’re using a blend of

vermouths infused with mango and lemon myrtle,” says Hudak. “If we’re doing a dirty martini, it’s usually made with a

salty olive brine, but we infuse our own

blend of vermouths with Italian sundried tomatoes, thyme and oregano.”

In addition to the trolley, the bar also

has a mini cocktail menu that allows guests to try a selection of options. Hudak says customers who typically steer clear of

stronger cocktails such as the martini are

more open to a condensed version. “When

we were thinking about introducing classic cocktails to a wider audience, we came up with the idea to serve mini cocktails,” he

September 2021 | 17

DRINKS // Martinis

more botanical-heavy options. Never

DRINKS // Martinis Margan likes his martini with 50ml gin, 20ml dry vermouth and a generous dash of orange bitters

says. “The small martini is exactly the right size and is the perfect opportunity to show younger demographics the beautiful world of cocktails. In 2019, we sold 1,000 mini

cocktails; people really like them, it’s like a tasting for them.”

In addition to downsizing, there are plenty

of ingredient substitutions to look at. The Everleigh delivers a number of cocktails

that could be called cousins of the martini including the Tuxedo Number Two, which uses maraschino and absinthe. Another

popular order is Death and Taxes, a drink

that combines gin, scotch, sweet vermouth and Benedictine.

There are also some minor additions that

go a long way to altering the flavour profile

of the martini. “There are simple tweaks that are really easy and can change the drink

entirely,” says Madrusan. “The little tweaks are sometimes the most fun; you can add some

mint leaves just before you’re about to stir and it creates a completely different drink.”

Margan prefers to break down the

composition of a martini into spirit, fortified wine base and modifier, leaving plenty of

room for experimentation. “We change ours quite a lot; what we like to work with is

ways to bring in mouthfeel and texture,” he

says. “Subbing out vermouth for sake, which is fermented with different yeast strains,

has an enhanced umami character. You can increase the perceived texture of the drink 18 | Hospitality

“You can increase the perceived texture of the drink by using something with umami.” – Ollie Margan

Taste rich & full flavours.

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DRINKS // Martinis

The boilermaker menu at The Everleigh sees a mini martini served with a Deeds Brewing draught lager

by using something with umami; it’s why olive brine is used a lot.”

The bar team makes salted ferments in-

house to effectively ‘season’ the drink. “It’s the incorporation of salt by way of lactic

fermentation using things like tomatoes and

different berries,” says Margan. “A few drops to a drink brings out certain elements of the gin and creates a generous mouthfeel.”

Garnishes are also a tool that can yield big

results with minimal intervention. Madrusan lists the Gibson as not only a great example,

but “the coolest martini in town”. In place of a lemon twist or an olive, a pickled onion is

added. “It brings a savoury sharpness to the drink itself,” he says.

As cocktail menus continue to become more

creative and elaborate, martinis remain a staple for bartenders and customers. The drink has been around since the beginning of cocktail culture, but it’s experienced somewhat of a resurgence over the past year as customers

appreciate the simple things done well. “The martini is the classiest cocktail ever; it’s

constant,” says Hudak. “It’s like a perfect pair of shoes or a tailored suit.”

The booming local gin sector has also played

a role in keeping the martini front and centre.

“I think the uptake of people being interested in martinis is on the back of us doing some pretty special things in the gin industry at large in

Australia,” says Margan. “The ultimate way of

consuming [gin] in cocktail form would have to be the martini.”

At The Everleigh, the martini is not just a part

of the menu, but at the core of the business.

“It’s always been a bit of a staple for us,” says

Madrusan. “If we couldn’t make a martini, we

wouldn’t open the doors. I actually like closing my week with a martini. I think a beautiful

crisp, cold, clean drink is a great way to draw

the line between working and personal life.” ■

20 | Hospitality

“I think a beautiful crisp, cold, clean drink is a great way to draw the line between working and personal life.”

– Michael Madrusan

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against one or the other. Quite often, we will

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be making a drink and it will become a non-

to home. “Byrdi focuses on seasonal and local

alcoholic offering because we find it’s the best

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execution for the particular elements.”

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aperitif-style highball which uses non-alcoholic

changing with the elements and the seasons. We

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PROFILE // Kylie Javier Ashton 24 | Hospitality

Photography by Nikki To

PROFILE // Kylie Javier Ashton

Kylie Javier Ashton The Seiobo trailblazer is finding her feet in an industry she’s changed for the better.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros IT’S ALL TOO common to associate a restaurant

four years and it felt like his restaurant because

pas has never been the case when it comes

Ashton. “When Paul got there, and because I

with the chef — and only the chef. But the faux to Momofuku Seiobo. It’s rare to think of the

Sydney fine diner without Kylie Javier Ashton

springing to mind. The general manager spent

nearly 10 years culminating a workplace culture where the notion of teamwork was on display

via chefs serving guests water and front of house plating up dishes in the kitchen.

Seiobo closed its doors just before the most

recent lockdown commenced, and with it came the end of a career-defining chapter; but more importantly, the chance to reflect and forge a

new path in the industry. Javier Ashton talks to Hospitality about the final months of Seiobo,

how the 2020 lockdown led to the restaurant

running at its peak and her plans for the future — they’re simply to dye for.

When Kylie Javier Ashton started at Momofuku Seiobo in 2012 as a restaurant manager, it

I was the second manager there,” says Javier

was more established, I felt confident and he

really pushed me forward. He was always like, ‘Kylie is a huge part of this’ whenever he did

media and that was key in people realising that it wasn’t just the chef. I’m really grateful for

that; you need those advocates in the kitchen

who say, ‘It’s not all about me — we have our

managers, too’. It was really nice to feel like I was heard.”

“As an industry, we have to realise that more does not mean more. It’s about what’s manageable and making it really good.” – Kylie Javier Ashton Carmichael spearheaded a completely

looked very different to the venue that just

new culinary direction at Seiobo which saw

in the kitchen; Ben Greeno was the executive

public’s attention in a big way. Despite his

closed. For one, there was no Paul Carmichael chef and Su Wong, the general manager. 2015 was the year everything changed. Carmichael

arrived and Javier Ashton was appointed GM, marking the start of a powerhouse pair that

stuck together until the restaurant’s final service in June.

The front-of-house professional was still

finding her place at Seiobo when Carmichael

took over, and his support and commitment to

creating a collaborative workplace was present from the get-go. “I worked with Ben for about

Caribbean cuisine capture the Sydney dining six-year tenure at Seiobo, some people thought the restaurant was Japanese — even in its

final weeks. “We had a family come in who had no idea what we were — they thought

everything was really spicy and didn’t tell us

at any point,” says Javier Ashton. “Most people don’t understand what Caribbean food is, fair

enough, but it’s spicy. People would commit to the $220 and be like, ‘Oh, I had no idea what that was going to be’.”

September 2021 | 25

PROFILE // Kylie Javier Ashton

Diner nuances aside, Javier Ashton compares Seiobo’s last months to being on a John Farnham tour. The restaurant announced its closure

in March and almost instantly booked out every service. “It was nice to finish everything on our own terms and have such a huge celebration; we had four months of craziness every night,” says Javier Ashton.

“People were having the time of their lives and it forced everybody to be in the moment; you’re never going to have this again, so just have fun

with it and enjoy it. It was so lovely. But emotionally, I was exhausted at

“It was incredible for me to be able to teach a whole team of chefs how to be waiters; it was probably one of my biggest achievements.”

– Kylie Javier Ashton

the end of every week trying to make it really special for everybody.

“Paul and I had this conversation and he was like, ‘Kylie, you just

need to do your job and that’s enough — you don’t need to give your

left arm to someone and give them everything because they might not like it or you think that’s what you have to do for it to be special’. It

was good to have that realisation — I needed to stop trying so hard.”

Seiobo’s last service was brought forward by one day due to the

implementation of COVID-19 restrictions in New South Wales. But in a way, it was a good thing. Javier Ashton likens it to ripping off

a band aid — short, relatively painless and adrenaline-fuelled. “For me personally, it was a blessing in disguise,” she says. “The whole

casino complex closed at midnight and they wanted everyone off the property at 10:00pm because they had to shut it all down. We knew

Photography by David Griffen

heaps of people were going to drop by, and while that’s nice, you still have to clean and pack down the restaurant.”

The team adjusted some bookings and ran a whirlwind service over

two sittings. “It was fast and furious — at 10pm we put down bills, got people to pay and were like, ‘You guys have to go!’ It was this

high, intense-energy service and then everyone just left — we had the opportunity to be with our team and clean. If we hadn’t been able to

open, it would have been cut short. So it was really nice to do our last service; it just sucks for the people who booked on the last night, but

they were mostly regulars who had experienced the restaurant and they were really understanding. It was a good finish to the restaurant.”

When Seiobo reopened after the 2020 lockdown, it returned as

an elevated entity that broke down barriers and emulated fluidity.

Rolling reservation times were gone; instead, there were two sittings at 5:45pm and 8:30pm across four days. “We were closed for four

months and it gave us so much time to think about the best thing for the restaurant reopening,” says Javier Ashton. “We needed to model so we could be sustainable based on creating the same experience and vibe with half the amount of guests and staff. We wanted to

be able to condense the days and give the team time to recover. As an industry, we have to realise that more does not mean more. It’s about what’s manageable and making it really good.”

The restaurant ran with a smaller team of 11 staff; three of which

were front of house (FOH). Not that you would know it. Javier

Ashton and her husband Luke Ashton tie-dyed the Seiobo uniforms,

which were worn by all staff. “We changed our uniform so it was all

the same — we were one team,” says Javier Ashton. “It was great for

the guys because it gave them a sense of equality and empowerment.”

The GM also set about rejigging the service structure, leading to

chefs being equipped with a whole new skillset. “We taught all of our chefs how to do front of house,” says Javier Ashton. “They set, they

cleared, they did water, they did bills — they pretty much functioned as FOH as well. It was incredible for me to be able to teach a whole 26 | Hospitality

www.si

mplotf oodser vice.co m.au

PROFILE // Kylie Javier Ashton

team of chefs how to be waiters; it was probably

one of my biggest achievements. Paul was a huge part of that; he would open the door and was

basically the host and people were so blown away.

He would polish glasses in the bar every night.

Anybody in the restaurant could jump in and

help at any point. It’s probably one of our biggest achievements to knock down the foundations,

break those rules and make it work. If there are no boundaries and those lines are blurred, you

become a more efficient business. I’m really proud of the restaurant we reopened. We did what we thought was right and it was the restaurant we

always wanted to run. But we never knew how to get there because you’re just keeping something alive; it’s hard to change direction.”

such a huge part of me, it was like being in a

After the buzz subsides, reflection almost always

restaurant right now,” she says. “It’s nice to have

follows; especially after a major life event. Javier Ashton has been a driving force within the

industry when it comes to championing front of house — whether it’s fostering in-house talent or participating in initiatives such as Appetite

for Excellence. It’s a change that’s absolutely still in motion, but one she has no doubt been a key

relationship, so I’m not ready to be in another

a job where it’s more of a job and that’s what I’m trying to do, but knowing me, things are never

like that. I want to have some more time to give

back to the industry and be involved in things in a different capacity and not feel like it’s an extra thing I need to do.”

She’s also taken up tie-dying, a 2020

player in. “I think it’s so important to show people

lockdown activity that has resulted in the launch

important,” says Javier Ashton.

capsule collections of napkins and cushions.

and FOH that what we do in a restaurant is really “Sommeliers and bartenders are amazing at

promoting each other as professionals, but if

you’re FOH or a GM and your focus isn’t 100

per cent on wine, you’re at the bottom of the food chain when it comes to the hierarchy of

people who are seen in a restaurant. It’s great to

of KJ.LA; a brand that’s now selling hand-dyed

“We [Luke Ashton] started doing tie-dying as a creative project last lockdown and I’ve started my own brand,” says Javier Ashton. “People

started asking if they could buy things and it’s become a side hustle.”

represent FOH in that way and bring attention to

Doing the same thing for close to a decade leads

more attention.”

Putting the security blanket away naturally results

that part of the industry and people are paying

The work is something she hopes to build on

now Seiobo has closed, but some timeout and breathing space away from restaurants is also on the cards. Javier Ashton admits she can’t

help but give 110 per cent to everything, and

with unwavering passion comes a few hurdles.

“I think you can get a little bit blinded because

you’re so close to it all and invest everything; it can take some of the shine away,” she says. “By not working in a restaurant, I can fall in love

with the industry a bit more and in a different way, which I’m really excited about.”

Javier Ashton is still employed by The Star

and is working with the food and beverage department. She’s not in a rush to lock in

her next move and is well overdue to move into cruise mode for a while. “Seiobo was 28 | Hospitality

to a level of routine, comfort and familiarity.

in a level of uncertainty, but more importantly, it provides opportunity. “When you’ve done a job

for nine years, you know what’s expected of you,”

says Javier Ashton. “Even when it’s hard and scary, you’re with your people and you’re in control of your destiny to a certain degree. It can become

unhealthy when you don’t feel like you have an

identity outside of your job and that’s something

I’ve been working on the past year; to not define

myself by what I do for work and to be comfortable in myself regardless of whether or not I’m the GM of Seiobo. I need to be able to stand on my own

two feet and feel confident without the restaurant as a crutch. I don’t think I’m there yet; it’s going to be a journey over the next few months to get

there. It’s nice to find out who I am again outside of Seiobo. Now it’s done, it was really good, but I need to move on.” ■

“It’s nice to find out who I am again outside of Seiobo.”

– Kylie Javier Ashton

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FEATURE // Lobster

A pinch of luxury Seafood suppliers and chefs talk lockdown crustaceans and why they’re coveting menus in a big way.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

AUSTRALIAN LOBSTERS ARE in abundance. A tight export

market has resulted in a plethora of high-quality produce that’s not leaving our shores, which means chefs can get their hands

on the best of the best for a relatively accessible price point. But restaurants and suppliers are doing things a little differently

due to the current lockdown in Sydney and parts of New South Wales, delivering lobsters in boxes instead of plates.

Hospitality speaks to Richard and Thuy Pinson from Red

Claw Seafoods about how they are continuing to support

fishermen and restaurants while tapping into a new consumer

base along with Chefs Brent Savage and Tristan Rosier, who are offering diners something special in a challenging climate.

Richard and Thuy Pinson are behind Red Claw Seafoods in

Sydney; a premium supplier that delivers everything from live lobsters to crabs and pipis straight to New South Wales’ top

restaurants. The Pinsons are the exclusive seafood suppliers to groups such as Merivale and Crown Sydney and supply

many other venues, but their regular operations changed when

restaurants were forced to shutter in response to the pandemic.

The initial 2020 closures also happened to overlap with the

shutdown of the export market to China, which meant lobsters were not only abundant, but significantly cheaper.

While Red Claw sends products overseas, supplying local

restaurants is a core part of its business model, which means the Pinsons were able to continue taking seafood from 30 | Hospitality

campaign across select Merivale venues. “It

shutdown, we were supporting our fishermen

market we previously had, but it did keep the

hands and in their boats. “When we had the first who didn’t have China anymore,” says Richard.

“There are some fishermen who relied on export only and didn’t look after the domestic trade.

The night before [lockdown], we’d taken a full boatload and found our friends in hospitality

were very supportive in terms of buying them directly. Our direct sales started by supplying members of the hospitality industry.”

Friends and family of hospitality workers were

fishermen in work,” says Richard. “Domestically, the price of lobsters dropped significantly

and it encouraged people attending our client restaurants to order live who hadn’t before.

It created demand because diners were able

to order live over frozen without a great price

differential. We found that once they tried live, they didn’t go back.”

keen to have access to products that typically

With the majority of restaurants in New South

environment. “We’d offer them to people who

decided to make their catch available direct to

wouldn’t be available to them beyond a restaurant we already knew and they were getting orders

from their friends and family, so we were moving lobsters that way,” says Thuy. “It wasn’t like we needed to make money, it was more, ‘Let’s just

move them and make people happy’. When we

finished the boatload, we thought we’d better do the right thing and stay home.”

Fortunately, restaurants in New South Wales

were able to reopen after a relatively short

lockdown, and the bounce-back was strong — as was the demand for luxury dining experiences.

Cirrus's bug roll

didn’t replace or even partly replace the export

Red Claw rolled out a lobster and Champagne

Wales closed for dine in once again, Red Claw

consumers for the first time — and the demand

has been healthy. “Because we had the previous

experience with people reaching out to us when

[the first lockdown] happened, we thought we’d

try and accommodate it again and do contactless deliveries,” says Richard. “From our point of

view, it’s not motivated by any commercial goal; it’s about continuing to serve the dining public and look out for fishermen.”

Consumers are able to order restaurant-quality

seafood to their doors, and they’re frankly

getting incredible bang for their buck despite

“It’s not motivated by any commercial goal; it’s about continuing to serve the dining public and look out for fishermen.”

– Richard Pinson

September 2021 | 31

FEATURE // Lobster

fishermen who had surplus product on their

FEATURE // Lobster

the challenging environmental conditions. “Winter is traditionally a time where lobsters are more expensive because they’re harder to catch,” says Thuy. “There’s still a bit of export going on, but there’s enough catch to make it cheap; the price is reasonably

low and affordable for people, which was another motivation to

get it out there. We thought we’d test fire it and the response was overwhelming, so we just kept rolling and it’s been a lot of fun seeing people post their dishes on Instagram.”

Red Claw have called on the expertise of Executive Chefs Dan

Hong (Mr. Wong, Establishment precinct, Queen Chow, Ms. G’s) and Jordan Toft (Mimi’s, Bert’s) to create informational videos

on how to handle live seafood as well as provide some guidance on dish preparation. “It’s one thing to go out and catch it, but to be able to respect a live animal, kill it humanely and then

cook it is very grounding,” says Thuy. “We get requests to kill

or split lobsters and we say no because it takes away from the

live experience. I think it’s important to do it yourself a bit more

[instead of] having everything cleaned and pre-packaged. There’s a lot of appreciation for food when you go through that process.”

Chefs are also getting in on the lobster action. The Bentley Group Co-Owner Brent Savage observed a shift in customer dining

behaviours post-lockdown (round one) at his restaurants Cirrus and Bentley; one where customers were looking to treat themselves.

“People want to make an experience out of their time now and lobsters at Cirrus have been more popular,” says the chef. “It’s

always been popular, but now it’s a menu item we can’t take off.”

For dine in, Cirrus takes pre-orders for live lobsters that are

Brent Savage

“People want to make an experience out of their time now and lobsters at Cirrus have been more popular.” – Brent Savage

served with a choice of salted duck egg yolk, chilli and tarragon,

black pepper sauce or brown butter and citrus. “It’s a case where

the fresh lobster is cooked and served with butter and fries on the side to make it very simple,” says Savage. Lobster is also available by request at Bentley. “A couple of times a week, people would be asking for an off-menu lobster item,” says Savage. “It might be more luxurious and done in two or three parts.”

Customers looking for takeaway dishes with a difference should

pay attention to Tristian Rosier’s Arthur restaurant. The Surry

Hills venue recently added lobster to the to-go menu, with the

crustacean featuring in an upgraded cod and scallop pie. “There are people looking to enjoy cheaper takeaway meals and then there are customers who have plenty of disposable income they can’t spend on dining out or travel, so premium product such as lobster is a

real treat,” says the chef. “We have regulars who love our premium products, so we look to see where we can include them.”

Rosier also has plans to add lobster to the menu when dine-

in resumes, which will be a new addition. “When we return to

Arthur’s normal offering, we’ll be keen to explore lobster on the menu as one of our additional courses,” says the chef.

The significant price drop has made purchasing lobster more

viable for restaurants; however, it is still a high-end product at the

end of the day. Savage works with a number of suppliers to secure the best deal, preferring to use eastern rock lobsters at Cirrus. “I think the cold waters of Tasmania produce the best lobsters in

the world, but we often get them locally off the New South Wales 32 | Hospitality

Lobster from Red Claw Seafoods

NEW

www.nestlepro fessional.com.a u/harvest-gourm et

FEATURE // Lobster

eastern coast,” says the chef. “Everyone puts a

a takeaway format, but it’s something that

notice a change around the time of the export

and error. The group’s restaurants were some

buyers; we’re looking for the best price. We did ban and they were significantly cheaper for a

has recently begun servicing the city and

Christmas [2020]. They’re still consistently

surrounding areas in New South Wales and

cheaper than they have been previously, but

Canberra. “We’re doing a lobster roll at Cirrus

they’re still a luxury item and never what you

at the moment with bay lobster, which is bug

would call ‘cheap’ — but it’s cheap for what

meat really,” he says. “We’re not currently

you’re getting and what you could be paying.”

offering eastern lobsters, but it’s something we

Lobster has historically been out of budget

would consider. I find lobsters are best when

for Arthur, but the restaurant has started to

they’re killed fresh and served. I’m not sure

showcase the crustacean along with other

shellfish due to the price plunge. “We source our

Century have

lobsters from Tasmania, New South Wales and

bottled their XO sauce to

Cirrus

sell with live

are selling

pippies from

a takeaway

Red Claw

bug roll

Western Australia through Martinʼs Seafood and

prices have

put lobster

decreased

on the menu

due to the

when dine-in

export market

resumes

sitting around because they can take on

ammonia really quickly and they can spoil. If

there as a luxurious product, I want to believe

definitely dropped at the end of 2020, but have

stabilised somewhat. Generally, when everything

comes to a halt, the prices drop to clear the stock their fishing. But the price reduction itself means

Arthur will

how it sits with me ethically having something

I’m going to put our name to it and put it out

Red Claw Seafoods,” says Rosier. “The prices

and then it comes up slightly as fishermen reduce

Lobster

requires much thought and likely some trial of the first to join Providoor Sydney, which

while, but they shot back up like crazy around

Golden

Savage hasn’t ruled out using lobster in

market price on them and it’s the same for us as

that by the time it gets to the customer, it’s in the best-possible state. When we reopen, we

will continue to run lobster as a feature item on our menus.”

There might not be a concrete date set for the

it’s a much more achievable product for us to

reopening of Sydney restaurants just yet, but if

we can look to use it on our takeaway menu. If

will be eager to sit down at tables outside their

use. With it being the price it is now, it’s great as the prices were as high as they were previously,

we don’t think it would be achievable as people may not pay that price for a takeaway meal.”

the last emergence is anything to go by, diners four walls and enjoy memorable experiences.

And what could be better than an expertly prepared lobster? The answer is two. ■

Arthur's takeaway lobster

34 | Hospitality

www.markwellf

oods.com.au

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FEATURE // Pour over

It’s all in the pour Rediscovering pour-over coffee and its distinct flavour profiles.

WORDS Aristine Dobson PHOTOGRAPHY Elize Strydom for Artificer POUR OVER IS a technique known for its simplicity. It’s one of

the earliest coffee-making processes around, but was ultimately overshadowed by the espresso machine. Once lost in a craze of

long blacks, lattes and flat whites, pour over is making a return to specialty cafes across Sydney and Melbourne.

Former Australian Brewers Cup participants and specialty

coffee retailers Daniel Yee and Devin Loong speak to Hospitality about the world of filter coffee, how to get the best out of pour over and its reemergence in the Australian coffee scene.

Ona’s Devin Loong has made a career out of the filter method.

He believes pour over is the purist’s way of enjoying coffee, with the technique celebrating the key distinctions of coffee beans.

“Filter coffee or pour over started to become more popular

around eight years ago when there was a rise in single-origin

coffees,” he says. “It’s a true representation of the coffee, and in a way, it’s not so intense. It highlights the nuances of coffee.”

Daniel Yee from Sydney’s Artificer echoes the sentiment. “If

you’re having a coffee as an espresso, it’s big in flavour, but it

can often hide nuance,” he says. “With filter coffee, it’s a gentle kind of brew. As it’s cooling, you can taste a lot more of the

sweetness and acidity. I like it because it’s approachable. People who don’t usually drink black coffee drink filter coffee or pourover coffee because it’s easy.”

There isn’t a comparison when it comes to pour-over

equipment. The unique and often visually appealing pieces set

the process apart for both consumers and baristas. Brewers for pour overs come in a plethora of different materials including 38 | Hospitality

Daniel Yee

100% Australian made 100% Vegan

FEATURE // Pour over

“With filter coffee, it’s a gentle kind of brew. As it’s cooling, you can taste a lot more of the sweetness and acidity.”

– Daniel Yee

plastic, glass, metal or copper, but they all

he says. “If I’m doing a pour over for myself, I’ll

Loong names the Hario V60 as the most

of coarse; it would be a medium grind. It would

achieve a similar outcome.

prominent when it comes to pour-over

equipment. Known for its premium glass and

look like coarse table salt.”

ceramic materials, Hario was founded in Japan

The method of making pour-over coffee can be a

“When people are talking about pour over, they

to keep it as simple as the concept itself. As a two-

and quickly became the go-to for filter brews. are talking about the V60,” says Loong.

Yee prefers to use a Kalita, in particular, the

wave filters. “It’s similar to a lot of batch brewers and we use it for its simplicity; it’s forgiving

in the pour,” he says. “You don’t have to be so

particular in how you apply the water to get a good cup of coffee.”

Pour-over coffee gives baristas the opportunity

fiddly process if it’s not executed right. The key is time champion of the Australian Brewers Cup,

Loong has created a namesake technique known as the ‘Loong pour’. His method has simplified the pour over in a way that allows baristas to

focus more on control and technical skill. “It was

developed because I had too many baristas doing too many steps,” he says. “The more steps, the higher the chance of screwing it up.”

Blooming is essential in ensuring the coffee

to show off the quality of the beans, which

grinds are saturated and undergo a release

are crucial in getting it right. Yee usually opts

CO2, so we want to release the CO2 from the

is why the consistency of the grind and ratio

for a lighter roast. “I prefer highlighting more

fruit and acidity in my coffees,” he says. “I find that more interesting than just ‘coffee coffee’.

Basically, trying to find coffees that are sweet and generally more acidic.”

The grind is dependent on the desired

extraction. Loong believes there is no right or

wrong way, but he has a specific rule of thumb: “The finer you go, the easier it is to extract the flavours,” he says. “The coarser you go, the harder it is to extract the flavours.”

Yee maintains a go-to ratio and consistency for

his pour overs. “There’s a semi-universal ratio

we use, which is about 6g of coffee per 100ml,” 40 | Hospitality

put 18g of coffee. Generally, it’s on the finer side

process. “When coffee is roasted, it produces

coffee; we’re not trying to fight against the CO2 to extract the coffee,” says Loong. In the initial

process of blooming, the Loong pour requires a

ratio of 15 grams of coffee to 50 grams of water.

As the water is poured to create the bloom,

the coffee bubbles and a slurry-like mixture is created before being agitated with a spoon to allow the water to travel through.

Monitoring water temperature is also a critical

step to nailing the technique. “When you’re

doing pour overs, I think one of the things [to

consider] is the temperature drop,” says Yee. “We don’t realise as soon as the water is boiled in a

kettle or whatnot, the temperature is dropping

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FEATURE // Pour over The 60 in V60 refers to the V-shaped filter holder which sits at a 60-degree angle

Ona’s batch brew is available from $5

rapidly.” Both baristas use water that sits at a

temperature between 94–97 degrees Celsius to extract the most out of a grind.

Coffee is said to have originated from the ancient coffee forests in Ethiopia

Baristas also need to maintain a steady stream

when carrying out the rest of the pour. “You let it bloom for 30 seconds and then pour in the middle for a few seconds and the coffee and

water slurry will lift up a little bit,” says Loong.

“When you pour in the middle and hold it there,

Artificer sell their own online and in-store

a process that requires training and technique.

“More and more people want it and less and less places want to do it,” says Loong, who believes some venues are deterred from the labourintensive process.

Although the barista encourages venues to

consider adding pour over to their repertoire,

an even-coloured bit on the top.”

instead look at batch brew as a potential option

Compared to other coffee-making methods,

pour over delivers an end product with a lighter flavour profile. “With pour over, you’re getting

more transparent flavours carried across,” says

he says it’s best not to jump straight in and

first. Not only is it cheaper, but it takes less time to make. “I think batch brew is a good way to get people to start appreciating filter coffee,” says Loong.

Yee. “They are more delicate and it also depends

The growing selection of coffee beans in

So if your coffee isn’t particularly good, it’ll

spoiled for choice. Loong is an advocate for the

on the transparency of the coffee you’re using.

show. There’s more transparency in all regards

as opposed to an espresso, where you can hide a

lot of faults behind the intensity or even if you’re going to dump 300ml of milk on top of it.”

Pour over has yet to really boom in the

specialty coffee market despite its popularity in a home environment.

42 | Hospitality

becoming a more popular order. However, it’s

the stream pierces through the slurry, brings it

up and it slowly goes round and round, creating seasonal coffee beans

But the consumer shift towards reducing or

forgoing dairy altogether has led to pour over

Australia means specialty coffee vendors are

pour over, which is a technique that’s all about slowing down. “The espresso machine is made to go faster and the pour over is like the old

method; it’s slower and [it’s a way to] really

enjoy the coffee,” he says. “It’s a little bit more

of an experience and there’s a story behind it, so pour over gives you more of a chance to provide an experience to the customer.” ■

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FEATURE // Tempeh

44 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Tempeh

Making new traditions Tempeh has evolved since its inception in Java, Indonesia, but its roots are preserved through the work of modern chefs.

WORDS Aristine Dobson

IF YOU WERE to order tempeh in Indonesia,

Bar chef has a background in food science,

chilli sauce or served as is with white fluffy

to making tempeh. “My mission is to introduce

it would be battered, doused in sweet soy and rice. But in Australia, tempeh is most embraced as a plant-based alternative. The fermented ingredient has plenty of unlocked potential

across multiple cuisines and is just waiting for chefs to take the plunge.

Hospitality talks to Ferments Lab’s Darwin Su

and Balinese Spice Magic’s Juliana Mitry about recreating the taste of home and introducing a

sacred, long-guarded recipe into the mainstream culinary world.

When Juliana Mitry opened Balinese Spice

Magic in Wollongong, her goal was to showcase

local produce while maintaining the authenticity of Indonesian cooking. “We do everything

traditionally; I don’t use any machinery,” says

Mitry. “Anything that’s still connected to humans or connected to feeling will be much better than

which has been incredibly useful when it comes tempeh and educate people that it can be a versatile ingredient,” he says.

When it comes to making tempeh, the process of fermentation can be unpredictable and is

dependent on temperature and timing, which

is why preparation is crucial. While Su honours the traditional method, the Australian climate is vastly different to the tropical weather in

Indonesia, which means ingredient adjustments need to be made to achieve the best-possible

outcome. “We use a lot of split chickpeas, split

soybeans or split green peas,” says the chef. “With split beans and peas, it’s easier to cook and there is less soaking time. But if you use the whole beans, you need to soak them for at least 12

hours, but I normally do it for about 24 hours.”

Different beans can be used to make tempeh,

putting it through machines.”

but each type needs to be treated according to its

an artisan tempeh brand called Tempeh Temple,

from adzuki and mung beans to chickpeas, lentils

Alongside her restaurant, Mitry has launched

which aims to educate consumers on the benefits of sourcing fresh, locally made products. “You can get tempeh from the Asian shop or big

supermarkets, but it’s been in storage for a while coming from Indonesia or it’s processed,” says Mitry. “Whereas now there are a lot of young

tempeh makers who give you real tempeh that tastes close to Indonesian tempeh.”

Darwin Su had a similar goal when he started

his side business Ferments Lab. The Banh Xeo

characteristics. Mitry experiments with everything

“My mission is to introduce tempeh and educate people that it can be a versatile ingredient.”

– Darwin Su

and hemp seeds. After soaking, the legumes are

dried in the sun before vinegars and bacteria are added to begin the fermentation process. “We

use the natural temperature rather than forced

temperature,” says Mitry. “In winter, it generally

takes about 36 to 40 hours, but you get the most perfect tempeh because it’s slowly incubating.”

Tempeh is fermented with a bacterium known

as Rhizopus oligosporus, which comes in the

form of a starter. “Some people will refer to it September 2021 | 45

FEATURE // Tempeh as yeast, but a tempeh starter is not actually yeast; it’s little, live microbes that have got rise,” says Mitry. “The microbes are like bacteria that eat through the beans.”

Su opts to feed the bacteria with apple cider vinegar. “It’s just

to reduce the pH of the beans, so the bad bacteria won’t grow,” he

says “Rhizopus can grow in a lower pH [and the vinegar] prevents cross-contamination.”

Su has a bespoke incubator which he uses for the fermentation

process. “Traditionally in Indonesia, they use banana leaves and they can just leave it outside because the room temperature is

already about 30 to 33 degrees Celsius, which is perfect for the

bacteria,” he says. “But because [Sydney] isn’t tropical, you need

to have a constant temperature of 29 to 32 degrees Celsius for the bacteria to grow.”

The chef lets his tempeh sit for 36 hours at a constant

temperature of 30 degrees Celsius. After 20–24 hours, the lid is taken off and the tempeh is exposed to the air. At this point, it produces its own heat.

In terms of storage, tempeh lasts for a maximum of seven to 10 days when kept in the fridge. After the first few days, its

appearance will start to change. “Sometimes my customers freak out a bit with the colour if they are not familiar with tempeh,”

says Su. “The colour will change on the surface; fresh tempeh has

a perfect white mould, but in around three days, you will see some yellow and maybe some black spots, which is completely fine. The black spots are just spores from the bacteria; it shows the tempeh is mature and has reached its peak flavour-wise.”

46 | Hospitality

“I don’t know if it’s because I’m superstitious, but where I grew up, making tempeh is basically making food from the heart.”

– Juliana Mitry

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FEATURE // Tempeh Rhizopus oligosporus Tempeh is

is a bacterial fungus

typically made

known to enhance

from soy beans

plant-based foods

Tempeh originates

Traditionally, tempeh

from the Java

is wrapped in

islands in the city

banana leaves

of Yogyakarta

during incubation

In the same way as tofu, tempeh can be

cater to various types of diets, with

and vegan dishes. But it has yet to

the artisan tempeh. “They’re happy to

used as a building block in vegetarian make a breakthrough in the culinary industry despite its potential. Mitry and Su have set out to introduce

tempeh to other chefs and change their

perceptions on its uses. “I haven’t really

vegans and meat eaters alike enjoying choose a variety of tempeh rather than go for meat, chicken and pork,” says Mitry. “Most people have been very positive about it.”

seen tempeh in a restaurant before,”

When it comes to tempeh, there is a

cafes, they’re sort of reluctant to use it.

perfect example of science and patience.

says Su. “When I speak to bosses in

People don’t know much about tempeh yet, so I think they’re a bit worried about whether they can sell it.”

One of the key benefits of tempeh

is that it can be used in other cuisines besides traditional Indonesian food.

“Recently, I made a classic Italian

dish with cod fish and pea cream, but instead of the cod, I used tempeh,” says Su.

Balinese Spice Magic’s tempeh dishes

48 | Hospitality

degree of uncertainty, but it truly is the In its first stages, there are only a few elements that can be controlled, and

in the end, it’s up to nature to run its

course. “My rule of thumb is basically

like the three monkeys; no bad thoughts, no hearing bad things and no saying

bad things,” says Mitry. “And generally, it

always works. I don’t know if it’s because I’m superstitious, but where I grew up,

making tempeh is basically making food from the heart.” ■

FEATURE // Truffles

Groundhog day The 2021 truffle season has been a boon, but snap state closures have seen chefs seek alternate applications.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Alex Squadrito for Matilda

2020 WAS A write-off for many industries.

Braidwood farm in the Southern Tablelands of

environmental events resulted in a tumultuous

of natural catastrophes beginning with draughts

A combination of the pandemic teamed with

year for some of the most-lauded truffle farmers.

Fast-forward one year and the landscape couldn’t look more different. 2021 has seen a bumper

crop of truffles produced across the country. In

fact, word on the street is that there have never been more on the market.

However, snap restaurant closures have

thrown a spanner in the works, leaving chefs to innovate and repurpose the coveted fungus.

Hospitality speaks to Terra Preta Truffles’ Peter

before being faced with fires and floods. “Last year was terrible,” says Peter Marshall, who

decided to call it when his fences were collected not once, but twice. “We had fires down to the

truffle patch and shortly after we had a gigantic

flood that washed ash from the forests down and took away the fences,” he says. “By the time we put them back, there was a second flood that took them away again.”

After waiting for Mother Nature to settle, the

Marshall and Matilda’s Aleksis Kalnins about

producer decided to lay the foundations for a

when you have 500g of truffle on your hands

advantage of the quiet to do maintenance and

the ebbs and flows of the season and what to do and a closed dining room.

To say Terra Preta Truffles went through a rough

patch last year would be an understatement. The 50 | Hospitality

New South Wales was faced with a triumvirate

better year. “We gave everything a rest and took pruning,” says Marshall. “Over the summer, the trees put a whole lot of sugar underground to feed the new group of truffle and it worked.”

Recent months have seen a raft of -6-degree

FEATURE // Truffles

nights, resulting in superior truffles that are highly coveted locally and overseas. “We’ve been exporting a lot and things are opening up in the US, the UK and parts of Europe, so it’s been very busy,”

says Marshall. “The trouble for us is the lack of flights, so we have a broker who keeps an eye on what planes are leaving and gets them on.”

There has been so much demand the farm has a wait list for

2022. “We’ve had new people calling on us, but this year we’ve

had to say, ‘Sorry we are already committed; but next year we can do it’. We have the reputation that we’re worth keeping on the list for next year.”

It’s certainly been a turnaround for Terra Preta, but it’s not to

say there haven’t been challenges. The farm is in the midst of

training a new litter of truffle hunting dogs. “We’ve only had two super-effective dogs this year; our first-generation dog Shadow is going into retirement and Sal passed away,” says Marshall.

“We have Shadow’s kids, so next year, we will have about seven.

We train them to only indicate a truffle that’s exactly ready for

harvest. Our daughter Rita spends years training them properly.”

The absence of overseas workers has also limited harvest. “Our

trained truffle hunters are stuck in Italy,” says Marshall. “We’re all

exhausted from carrying the load. But next year will be easier with more workers and more dogs.”

Matilda in Melbourne is one of the restaurants that was able to put

Terra Preta truffles on their menu. Head Chef Aleksis Kalnins works

with two core suppliers to source truffles including fine food purveyor

“We have some trees that produce pungent truffles that mature quite quickly, so we’ve been dehydrating them to preserve the flavour.” – Peter Marshall

Friend & Burrell. “They supply most top restaurants and work closely with a few farms,” says the chef. “We only ask for A-grade, and Terra Preta truffles are probably my favourite; they’re so vibrant when

you cut them open. We also get them from Stonebarn in Western Australia through Robert [Perrone] from Senselle.”

Kalnins sticks with the crème de la crème of truffles, but has

noticed a shift in the market. “It’s going to be saturated quite soon, especially in Victoria,” he says. “It could be heresy, but

lots of people have been starting up farms, so there could be

an oversupply next season. We are quite lucky because we only use the highest quality. I feel like it might trickle down to other restaurants where people who don’t know any better might be getting lower-quality truffles.”

Inferior products have become more commonplace within the

industry, with Marshall encouraging chefs to do their research

on the farms their truffles come from. “There’s a lot of stuff out

there, and it varies from fine to dreadful quality,” he says. “We are

totally herbicide-free, and to me, that’s extremely important in the Australian industry. A lot of the farms use herbicide, which is not

registered for use with truffle; it gets in the soil and I’m convinced the truffles can take it in. Chefs aren’t really interested in a lot of the third-grade stuff.”

Matilda was set to host a series of truffle dinners with Friend &

Burrell, however a state lockdown pushed the event back. Kalnins found himself with around 500g of truffle on his hands and no plates to put them on, so he moved into preservation mode. “I diced them up with 2 per cent salt and put them in a vac-pack

September 2021 | 51

FEATURE // Truffles

“In my mind, a highend restaurant should have truffle on the menu at least twice during the season.”

– Aleksis Kalnins bag for a few days,” he says. “Normally with

to do with soil type, orientation to the sun, the

air can get in but no bacteria can. But the bag

says Marshall. “We have some trees that produce

fermenting, you need a jar with a circulator so creates a sterile environment. It tastes amazing and it’s the perfect way to prolong their life. It

pronounces the flavour and the earthy aromas are massively accentuated throughout the process; it’s close to horseradish.”

Thankfully, Matilda was able to reschedule the

truffle dinner, with guests enjoying a multi-course menu showcasing different truffles. “I had special provenances picked for each dish,” says Kalnins.

Dishes for the dinner included wild mushroom

and truffle tart; smoked pork belly with shiitake, burnt spelt, lardo and truffle and mandarin

with white chocolate and truffle. The restaurant will continue to use truffle on the menu until supply comes to an end. “We have them as a

supplement and we are launching brunch, so

there will be truffle on there in a scrambled egg and hot smoked salmon dish,” says Kalnins. “I

species of the tree and the water in the soil,”

pungent truffles that mature quite quickly, so

we’ve been dehydrating them to preserve the

flavour. We’ve been putting sealed jars aside for when the fresh truffles cease production.”

Terra Preta hasn’t had any headaches moving

things with the product in spite of challenges.

“Pasta Emilia in Sydney has pivoted towards

pasta kits using a lot of truffles and restaurants in Canberra have been very busy,” he says.

10 separate paddocks in production now and

they’re all different in flavour and quality; it’s 52 | Hospitality

The farm sterilise and peel truffles before sending them to chefs

“Melbourne was good up until the most recent

lockdown, but we have had chefs experimenting at home and working on new recipes for when they get back to work.”

One of the most intriguing aspects about

comes from a six-legged creature: “We have

preservation to extend availability. “We have

Mexican trees

says his clients have been doing marvellous

restaurant should have truffle on the menu at Terra Preta have also experimented with

Japanese and

being plunged into multiple lockdowns. Marshall

truffle season is that you just don’t know when

least twice during the season.”

French truffles onto

stock despite Sydney and Melbourne restaurants

think I’m also going to do a smoked gnocchi dish around black truffle; in my mind, a high-end

Terra Preta have inoculated

Matilda is serving a truffle and gnocchi dish

it’s over for the year. Terra Preta’s confirmation to finish when the ants start biting us,” says Marshall. In an email to Hospitality on 10

August, Marshall wrote springtime arrived

“unexpectedly and suddenly”, and confirmed the ants had indeed arrived. ■

Truffle season ends when the ants march in

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VIDEO // Behind the scenes

MISONO IN JW Marriott Gold Coast Resort & Spa is known for its spicy tuna roll which features a crunchy sweet tempura topping. Sous Chef Albert Bautista says it’s the ideal combination of sweet and salty and offers a unique spin on traditional sushi.

Ingredients Sliced and diced tuna Cucumber Pineapple pieces Tempura crumbs Chilli powder Spring onion Soy sauce Nori Sushi rice

Method 1. Spread rice onto a nori sheet and dust with chilli powder.

2. Turn the sheet over and place sliced tuna in the centre.

3. Thinly slice a cucumber into batons and place on top of the tuna before rolling the nori into shape with a bamboo mat.

4. Slice the roll and drizzle spicy mayonnaise on top.

5. In a bowl, add finely chopped tuna, tempura crumbs, spring onion and pineapple. Add chilli powder and a dash of soy sauce and combine together.

6. To serve, place the tuna mixture on top of each roll and add pickled ginger and wasabi to the side of the plate.

Scan the QR code to watch the full video brought to you

by Cookers

54 | Hospitality

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Some models have adjustable presses for fine or coarse results

56 | Hospitality

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5 MINUTES WITH … // Jock Zonfrillo

Jock Zonfrillo The chef on working with Marco Pierre White.

It quickly became apparent that the

When I walked in, I was given an apron

difference between a one-star and a three­

and two tea towels by the saucier, a chef

WORDS Jock Zonfrillo PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied

in the morning and you’d be there until

two towels I’d be allowed to use the entire

ON MY FIRST day I was very much in

shift — and sometimes you got maybe

awe of the fact that I was working for Marco Pierre White, this godlike chef

whose food was all anyone in the field of

gastronomy talked about. I thought it was

f**king amazing, and so did everyone else in the kitchen — a cult of personality had

attached itself to Marco, and so everything in the kitchen was in orbit around his

reputation. The understanding was that

we should be grateful to be able to work

star kitchen was huge. You’d start at seven

one in the morning. All day, every day. The job would have been advertised as a split a half­hour break — but a lot of the time

you’d just work through depending on how

keep on top of their work, they had no f**king business being in that kitchen.

I was put on the garde manger section,

my first day, that you didn’t want to take

for all the different dishes, which I’d

It was sort of understood, especially on

a break because you wanted to keep on

top of what was going on. It was super­

regimented, with every minute of every day accounted for.

Everyone was gunning for perfection …

but all very focused and driven to do their

the guy with his name etched in brass on

58 | Hospitality

messy enough to need more than that to

where my job was to pick herbs. We had

in every way, and that vibe permeated the

small part to keep the machine running.

day. The reasoning was that if a chef was

busy it was and how much you had to do.

there, and we were. All these incredibly

talented chefs running around the place,

called Jimmy, and told those were the only

place from the guy washing the dishes to

the front door. It was infectious, that energy.

clip-top jars holding all the picked herbs take upstairs to Marco who’d use them while assembling the dishes. My other

job was to prepare tomatoes for concasse

— I’d blanch, peel, deseed and dice them perfectly so they were silky smooth and ready for service.

It was a bit of a gear shift for me,

coming from a one­star kitchen where

I was basically running the place, to being

So I was standing there, with my knives and

which is usually what apprentices did.

my two tea towels, staring at a thousand plum

they’ll have me on tomatoes all day. How

large dice, I knew I was going to get one, maybe

‘No worries,’ I thought, ‘there’s no way

could you spend all day on that?’

That was the process of a three-­star place

where everything had to be absolutely f**king perfect.

The weeks passed and I was still in the

kitchen, still on the concasse. I was blitzing

tomatoes. The way they wanted them, as extra-

two perfect cubes out of each tomato petal, and

then I could either throw half that tomato in the bin or I could pick through it and try to salvage

what I could. That would be so time-­consuming there’d be no way to get the prep done.

‘Right, I’m going to do this my way,’ I thought.

through it, no worries, then I came in one

I’d been staring at tomatoes so f**king long

of the specials featured tomato concasse

minute and had a close look at one of them and

day and they’d turned up the difficulty. One prominently, which effectively meant double the workload. That meant someone further

up the chain was trying to ruin my day: I was being set up to fail.

I could take them apart in my sleep, so I took a figured out a better way to do it.

I cut the top and tail off, then lined them

all up on a board and got a long, thin paring knife to core them. Placing the now-hollow

tomatoes neatly lined up on the board, I then ran a carving knife down the middle of each row, leaving me with perfect rectangles instead of petals of tomato.

The next morning, while I was still doing

the concasse, Jimmy came downstairs, saw

me doing my new trick with the paring knife and lost his f**king mind.

‘You’re not supposed to do it that way!’ he

hollered. ‘Who told you to do that?’

He ran upstairs … to tell Marco what I was

doing. Sure enough, seconds later I got hauled upstairs and Marco was already furious.

‘What the f**k are you doing to my

tomatoes?’ he wanted to know … in the end

he just dragged me downstairs and told me to show him what I was doing.

I showed him … and when I was done

Marco picked up a diced tomato and turned

to Jimmy and said, ‘He’s obviously got a much

better brain than you have,’ and that was that.

After that I started to get closer to the real

action in the kitchen, out of the prep section

and into foie gras parfait, crabs, lobsters — the sort of food Michelin kitchens are all about.

I was also really pleased that Marco was

the kind of chef who would take on an idea

that was clearly better than their established technique, which is a leap of logic that’s just too f**king far for some chefs at that level.

It proved to me that I was right to push back

sometimes if I knew my way was better, faster and cleaner, and I felt like I’d finally found a home in the kitchen of Marco Pierre White.

The is an edited extract from Last Shot

by Jock Zonfrillo (Simon & Schuster Australia; $45)

September 2021 | 59

5 MINUTES WITH … // Jock Zonfrillo

told I was picking herbs and dicing tomatoes,

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