Hospitality September 2019

NO.757 SEPTEMBER 2019

KITCHEN GARDENS • HOSPO HOBBIES • AUSTRALIAN CHEESE PRODUCERS

CONTENTS // September

Contents SEPTEMBER 2019

22

28

24 Regulars 8 // IN FOCUS With allergies on the rise, kitchens need to take note.

10 // NEWS The latest in openings, books, products and more.

12 // PRODUCE Kohlrabi: the alien-esque vegetable that tastes as good as it looks.

14 // COLUMN Jared Merlino on the impact of Sydney’s lockout laws.

16 // BEST PRACTICE Buffet’s guide to launching a venue on social media.

4 | Hospitality

18 // BUSINESS PROFILE Club Colombia is serving food with a side of culture.

22 // DRINKS What you need to know about the rise of black coffee.

40 // BEHIND THE SCENES Latte art with The Grounds.

41 // EQUIPMENT The citrus press is at home in the bar and the kitchen.

42 // 5 MINUTES WITH …

Luke Piccolo from Limone Dining.

Features 24 // KITCHEN GARDENS Three operators on the benefits of growing their own produce.

28 // HOSPO HOBBIES A chef and a front of house gun prove there’s more to life outside their jobs.

32 // CHEESE A local approach to cheese is the way forward.

36 // PASTRY Traditional pastry techniques with heart.

Public Apology from MAdE Establishment: In early 2017, following a change in ownership and management, MAdE Establishment conducted a review of its records and identified circumstances where it had failed to correctly pay many of its employees. MAdE Establishment self-reported this to the Fair Work Ombudsman (FWO) which subsequently commenced an investigation into Jimmy Grants and the MAdE Establishment group of companies, being the Hellenic Republic, Press Club and Gazi restaurants.

Since first identifying the underpayment issues, the MAdE Establishment group has back-paid 515 current or former employees $7.83m.This amount comprised underpayments for the admitted contraventions listed below. In some cases, workers were incorrectly classified. Record-keeping laws relating to time records for some annualised salary employees were not adhered to, contributing to underpayments.

The FWO also found underpayments of about $16,000 for 9 employees at two Jimmy Grants stores. Jimmy Grants (Emporium) and Jimmy Grants (Fitzroy) incorrectly classified some workers and for some employees the wrong award was applied, resulting in underpayments of base rates for ordinary hours and a range of penalty rates.

MAdE Establishment has formally admitted to the FWO that contraventions relating to the following failures occurred and has entered into an Enforceable Undertaking (EU) with the FWO (available at www.fairwork.gov.au) committing to a number of measures to remedy the contraventions, rectify workplace practices and ensure future compliance: • failing to pay: minimum rates of pay, casual loadings, Saturday, Sunday, Public Holiday, early morning and evening penalty rates, overtime rates, split shift allowances, minimum hourly engagements, penalties for working through meal breaks and annual leave loadings; • failing to conduct annual reconciliations for those employees paid through an annual salary arrangement to ensure those employees had been properly remunerated for all accrued overtime and penalty rates; • failing to make and keep part time work agreements; and • failing to keep a record of start and finish times for employees on annualised salaries.

The commitments made by MAdE Establishment in the EU include: • a contrition payment of $200,000 to the Commonwealth; • committing to workplace relations training for all staff with responsibility for human resources, recruitment, on-site management or payroll functions; • completing audits for a period of three years; • implementing systems and processes to monitor compliance at all times; • registering with the FWO ‘My account’ portal; and • a commitment from George Calombaris to promote compliance within the restaurant industry and to educate fellow industry leaders about the importance of complying with the Fair Work Act. MAdE Establishment expresses its sincere regret and apologises for the conduct that resulted in the contraventions.

MAdE Establishment is committed to ensuring compliance with Commonwealth workplace laws and becoming a force for change in the industry.

George Calombaris, founding shareholder (shareholder 2008-current, director 2008-2018) Radek Sali, Director of MAdE Establishment (director 20 December, 2016-current, shareholder 20 December, 2016 - current) Adam Gregory, Director of MAdE Establishment (director 26 April, 2017-current, shareholder 28 August, 2017 -current)

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

#HOSPLEADERS Christine Manfield at the 2019 Hospitality Leaders Summit. @hospitalitymagazine

Breaking the bubble HOSPITALITY IS AN all-consuming industry

Jared Merlino pens our column this month

where eating, breathing and sleeping

on the impact Sydney’s lockout laws have

food and booze is a badge of honour. And

had on venues and how he’s steered Bartolo,

while it’s great to be part of a passionate

Kitty Hawk, Lobo Plantation and Big Poppa’s

community, getting out of the bubble can

through the red tape. We also shine a light

be just as good. I talk to Momofuku Seiobo’s

on local producers who are creating cheeses

Kylie Javier Ashton about her side hustle as

that are just as good as those found in

a boxer and Subo head chef Mal Meiers

Europe and talk to the chefs who are putting

about his vocation for ceramics.

them on the map.

This issue, Madeline Woolway looks at

GREECE IN BALMAIN The weed pie is my pick at this newly opened restaurant in Balmain, spearheaded by chef Matina Spetsiotis. @annabellecloros

I hope you enjoy this issue.

the far-reaching impacts kitchen gardens can have on a venue and talks to Ho Jiak’s

Until next time,

Junda Khoo and Coda and Tonka’s Kay-Lene

Annabelle Cloros

Tan about the importance of preserving the

Editor

traditional pastry techniques they grew up

TONGA TIME Heilala vanilla beans drying under the Tongan sun. @madeline.woolway

Follow us

with such as kuih.

@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au

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ACTING CIRCULATIONS MANAGER Troy Brookes subscriptions@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymagazine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

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6 | Hospitality

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Over 1,000 matches, 47 finals, 20 tests, 55 races and 3,000 laps in 2019.

Call 1300 361 507 foxtelbusiness.com.au to find out more The minimum term of an eligible Foxtel Business Venues subscription is date of sign-up to 29 February 2020. Availability of pay-per-view events subject to change. The F1 FORMULA 1 logo and related marks are trademarks of Formula One Licensing BV, a Formula One group company. All rights reserved. BUS0298

IN FOCUS // Allergies

Food allergies With allergy rates on the rise, food-induced anaphylaxis is becoming increasingly common.

WORDS Madeline Woolway

FOOD-INDUCED ANAPHYLAXIS HAS doubled in

specific to cooks and chefs.

Along with advice on the

with the National Allergen Strategy to analyse the data

the past 10 years and fatalities

safest methods to handle,

from food-induced anaphylaxis

prepare, cook and store food

have increased 7 per cent each

to prevent food-related allergic

implemented by AEG Ogden

year according to a study

reactions, it also highlights

include training with suppliers,

A chef or cook not checking

published in The Journal of

the importance of effective

separating utensils, removing

ingredients in a garnish

Allergy and Clinical Immunology.

communication between the

tea towels, installing equipment

kitchen and other staff and

for making allergen-free meals

consumers with food allergies.

and sourcing plates that are

Using utensils across multiple

different sizes, weights and

food types, including knives,

A new online food training program for cooks and chefs

they received.

Common causes of food-related allergic reactions

Some of the strategies

aims to help decrease the rate

“It can be very difficult

of preventable deaths caused

to manage all the different

colours to help decrease the risk

by food anaphylaxis while

dietary requests that come

of mix-ups.

dining out.

through a large kitchen, and

tongs, spoons, etc

“This training program …

All About Allergens: The

often customers don’t have

will go a long way towards

next step for cooks and chefs

any concept of the type of

minimising the risk of food

was developed in conjunction

pressure cooks and chefs are

allergen cross-contamination by

products, e.g. mayonnaise,

with chefs and cooks with

under and make requests at the

spelling out, in simple terms, the

tomato sauce

experience in commercial

last minute,” says Martin Latter,

best way to reduce risk and help

kitchens. The free program is a

group director of Kitchens for

keep our customers safe,” says

follow up to the first All About

AEG Ogden.

Latter. “It provides resources

Allergens online food allergy

Latter and his team set up

and templates that can be used

training program, with the next

a special dietary kitchen in

in commercial kitchens to help

stage providing information

Brisbane and have been working

reduce the risk.” ■

8 | Hospitality

Not checking the ingredients label on pre-prepared

Suppliers changing ingredients without informing the kitchen staff

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, products and more.

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Archie Rose’s Rye Malt Whisky arrives Archie Rose Distilling Co. has added Rye Malt Whisky to its core range. There are just 2071 first-batch bottles available, which can be purchased through ballot allocation, ticketed launch events, on the Archie Rose website or at the Rosebery bar. The team began with German malt but are now working with local New South Wales growers to revive heritage rye and barley strains. The team anticipates three additional releases of the whisky from now until 31 December 2019. $119 for 700ml at 45 per cent ABV. archierose.com.au

Coskun Uysal debuts book Quick Brown Fox Eatery opens in Pyrmont

Tulum Coskun Uysal $49.99; Melbourne Books

Quick Brown Fox Eatery has launched in

Turkish chef Coskun Uysal has penned

Pyrmont, with former Fat Duck chef Tomislav

his debut cookbook named after his

Martinovic consulting on the menu. Siblings

Melbourne restaurant, Tulum. Recipes

and co-owners Ben and Emily Calabro are

include scallops with corn, beef tongue

behind the café and wanted to run a venue

with fried green pepper yoghurt and

that offered classic dishes teamed with

burnt butter sauce and the classic

contemporary options. Kido Kwon has been

dessert walnut semolina. All recipes

appointed head chef, cooking up all-day

are accompanied by detailed notes

menu items including koshihikari rice congee

from the chef and photography.

with chilli fried egg, enoki mushrooms,

melbournebooks.com.au

maple-glazed bacon, grilled cabbage and chilli relish along with Ottoman eggs with Pioik focaccia, green chilli and dill yoghurt. quickbrownfoxeatery.com.au

Racines launches Lifestyle Brunch Sofitel City Centre Singapore has debuted a new brunch offering for diners who like to have it all.

The brunch offers a buffet selection alongside two à la carte menus comprising everything from local favourites such as dim sum and chicken rice to premium dishes such as locally farmed frogs legs and Boston lobster ragout tortellini with coral oil.

Free-flow beverage pairings are also available covering everything from juices and sodas to Champagne, cocktails, wine and local craft beers.

If you’re heading to Singapore, make Racines your first stop. sofitel-singapore-citycentre.com

10 | Hospitality

Proud to be a Chef Feed your mind.

The experience 32 finalists will receive an all expenses paid 4 day trip to Melbourne to engage in a once in a lifetime culinary experience.

Flights & accommodation

Culinary experiences

Celebrity masterclasses

International scholarship

Apply now 1 Visit proudtobeachef.com & click apply now.

2 Prepare and upload your recipe*.

3 Complete your application by telling us about your passion and commitment to your culinary craft.

PTBAC2020

facebook.com/proudtobeachef

@proudtobeachef

*Must include an Anchor™ Food Professionals ingredient. 4 day experience, all flights and accommodation provided. Full entry details and terms and conditions at proudtobeachef.com

proudtobeachef.com

PRODUCE // Kohlrabi

Leaves are green and waxy

Stalks are edible White is faster The sweetest variety of

to grow than the purple Body is

kohlrabi

bulbous and round

Kohlrabi The unusual-looking vegetable tastes just as good as it looks.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros ILLUSTRATIONS Elena Fombertaux

Origins

Flavour profile

at least 5cm in diameter. The whole plant

Kohlrabi derives from the German words

The flavour characteristics of kohlrabi

including the roots should be removed when

kohl (cabbage) and rabi (turnip) and is said

differ according to the variety, with some

harvesting. White varieties grow faster than

to originate in the 16th century in northern

compared to a sweeter, milder turnip and

the purple, which can take up to 10 weeks

Europe. The cool-climate vegetable is part of

others to cabbage or broccoli. The white

before they’re ready to harvest.

the Brassicaceae family and is prominent in

variety is sweeter than the purple, but both

countries including Germany, the US, Israel,

are crisp and crunchy. Chef Troy Rhoades-

Culinary applications

China and northern India.

Brown from Muse in the Hunter Valley says

The whole plant is edible, from the bulb

the texture is reminiscent of a daikon

to the stems and the leaves. The bulb is

or turnip.

encased by two layers which should be

Appearance The vegetable comes in green, white and

removed during preparation. Kohlrabi can be

purple varieties with the most common

Harvest

eaten raw and is commonly sliced for use in

including White Vienna, Purple Vienna and

Kohlrabi is a biennial plant best grown

salads. The leaves can be eaten as greens

Gigante. Kohlrabi is known for its bulbous

during the cooler season, which means

in the same way as kale or spinach and the

and swollen appearance which features

winter is the optimum time to produce

stems can be chopped up and added to

long stems with waxy green leaves that

in Australia. Adequate soil and moisture

stews. The flesh is often used in gratins or

grow out of the body. Bulbs are typically

is necessary to achieve the desired

roasted for a side dish. At Muse, the team

5-10cm in size and 150g in weight. Clusters

tenderness and flavour. Kohlrabi needs full

ferment kohlrabi with ginger, purée, roast,

of yellow flowers can also grow if the plant

sun with light shade. They grow above soil

steam and grill it. ■

is left to mature.

and are ready to harvest when they are

12 | Hospitality

COLUMN // Lockout laws

Second-chance

Sydney The lockout laws have had a huge impact on the hospitality industry — so where do we go from here?

WORDS Jared Merlino

C

M

I DON’T THINK Sydney knows what it’s doing at this point. The way the city has

been run from a licensing and a policing perspective has been very restrictive. It’s

affected the amount of money people are

spending when they go out and how long they go out for.

The lockout laws have almost become

a tagline for any business that is failing;

everyone likes to use them as an excuse.

We all know they’ve pulled $16 billion

out of the economy. But at the same time, I think there’s still a thriving hospitality

market in the city. We’ve got one of the best cocktail cultures in the world and some of the best bartenders.

People want diversity. They want to be

able to have a rum cocktail at 4pm at Lobo Plantation and have a negroni at 2am

at Big Poppa’s. The city is definitely still

to pay rent, pay staff and deal with the other operational costs.

with the DCP is Crown Street in Surry

The late-night trading development control

do automatic trading on development

plan (DCP) provisions are a great step

from the council, but the council has never

really been the problem. It’s more at a state level and a police level. There needs to be a more collaborative process between the

police, the regulatory bodies and operators.

It used to be a case-by-case consultation,

They’ve tried to deal with a cultural problem with regulation and it hasn’t

a heavily regulated market.

need to keep consumers safe, but taking

to be able to do the most basic things. It took six months to get a primary service

authorisation for Bartolo. The amount of

time it takes to get approvals makes it hard 14 | Hospitality

to operate in. It’s an area they want to

increase foot traffic in; they want people to see it as a vibrant, neighbourhood

destination. It’s good the council is taking

steps with the DCP and DA, but unless the

state government, the police force and the liquor board come on side, the potential benefits won’t come to fruition.

I’d like to see a more mature consumer —

until we allow them the freedom to be able to

process would look at ways to hold bad

the storm, but even they’re struggling

because they’ve realised it’s a hard area

the problem.

now than ever. It’s just a matter of figuring

Good operators are able to weather

applications (DA) on the strip until 2am

people who are able to control their behaviour

now, blanket laws apply to everyone.

out how you can create a venue like that in

Hills, where Bartolo is. They’re going to

truly addressed

looking for those options. Poppa’s trades late into the night and it’s more popular

One of the areas they’ve addressed

A more thought-out collaborative

operators accountable. We all agree we

away their freedom isn’t really going to do that. They’ve tried to deal with a cultural

problem with regulation and it hasn’t truly addressed the problem. People are still going to drink and be violent if they’re violent people.

and be responsible. I don’t think we’ll see that make their own choices.

Put restrictions, punishments and

sanctions in play if operators break the law, but allow them to operate when they want.

Allow them to trade later in the night and open during the day. Allow uninhibited

use of the footpath within reason. Allow us to open up so we can have more

cultural diversity, so we can thrive and

be an international city that offers great

experiences. Give people the opportunity and we’ll have a better city. ■

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

PASSION DRIVES INNOVATION It is passion and the sense of innovation that focused Stoddart to partner with American Range to develop the heavy duty modular cooking range exclusively designed for the Australian market.

The American Range lineup, specifically designed from the ground up, is a heavy duty, commercial range of cooking equipment, built for the Australian Commercial Kitchen environment.

The sleek, modular design allows for customisation for both front of house or back of house production applications.

BEST PRACTICE // Social media strategies

How to launch a venue on social media Don’t fancy yourself a social-savvy operator? Here’s a guide to becoming a pro.

WORDS Sophie McComas IT CAN FEEL overwhelming to

lot of events or target customers

what’s coming and follow to keep

Experimenting with ferments in-

wade through every social media

under 25? A smart Snapchat

up. Incorporate social handles

house? Got a chef who speaks

option to prioritise what your

strategy could work. The next

in all communications to send

fluent French and Danish?

brand actually needs and what

most important channel is your

people to your channels prior to

Talk about it.

can wait. Should you invest in

email database, which is free

launching. This ensures there’s an

photography or video? Facebook

from the whims of the tech

established audience ready and

Consistency is key

or Instagram? Agency assistance

giants and offers a direct line to

waiting when you do open.

Now you have your vision, identity

or in-house help?

the people truly invested in what

If you’re feeling like it’s easier

you’re up to.

to set your phone alight and

and strategy — stick to it. Create

Invest in quality content

a monthly plan and schedule

If there’s one thing to prioritise,

posts at optimal engagement

Plan a visual identity and tone of voice

it’s professional, engaging

times (for food and beverage,

that’s fair. But nutting out a

photography of your menu.

that’s generally between 6pm

solid plan of attack for utilising

Just as you’ve carefully

Instagram is a visual platform,

and 9pm). At Buffet, we use

the communication channels

considered your location, team

so relying on sub-par imagery

Iconosquare for scheduling,

available has many advantages

and logo, it’s worth thinking

that doesn’t do your offering

planning and reporting. Better

— a successful strategy will cut

about how to present your venue

justice isn’t doing your venue

yet, engage people who know

through social media’s white

visually and tonally. These should

any favours. At Buffet, we shoot

what they’re doing so you can

noise and remind your audience

reflect your actual offering and

with most restaurant clients on

focus on the most important part

(and those who haven’t found

philosophy seamlessly. Is your

a quarterly basis, ensuring the

— the product. A good image of

you yet) what you do, and how

bar or restaurant moody and

images on their social channels

a bad dish is still a bad dish, no

well you do it. If the images,

slick? Your imagery and graphics

are up to date and reflective of

matter how you spin or shoot it. ■

words and messages you’re

should be, too. Is your service

the restaurant experience. If your

projecting into the world don’t

style warm and welcoming?

menu changes every day, ask a

Sophie McComas is co-founder

do your brand justice, you’re

The tone of voice in all your

staff member or chef to capture

and director of Buffet, a Sydney-

doing more harm than good, so

communications should mirror

specials as they are created.

based creative content studio

it pays to get it right even before

the same approach.

A short iPhone photography

working with the food, drink

throw it in the grease trap,

you launch.

workshop (we run them) can work

and travel industries on content

Set up your channels before you launch

wonders. Second, if your caption

strategy, photography, video,

is boring, repetitive or too sales-

copywriting and social media.

Before you send out a press

heavy, you’ll turn people off.

www.buffet.digital @buffet.digital

Each social channel offers

release to media (yes, press

Story first, sales second.

a different means of

releases are still useful and

communication as well as a

relevant), your Instagram and

Be authentic

different audience. Before you

Facebook pages should be

Capturing food and drink is

get started, figure out which

live with a profile image, your

important, but it’s imperative to

are worth your time. Every

website, contact info and a link

represent the venue experience.

brand should have a presence

to sign up to your database.

Atmosphere, people, prep,

on Instagram with a linked

There should also be some form

produce, interiors — all the minor

Facebook page in order to run

of content posted, whether it’s

details that make your space

boosted posts and ads. But if

imagery, video or graphics, so

unique — are exciting to an

you’re a pop-up or movable

when potential customers hear

unfamiliar eye and helps build

brand, you may also want to

about your venue and hunt down

your brand’s world. Sourcing

consider Twitter. Will you host a

your page, they get an idea of

your wasabi fresh from Tassie?

Identify the channels that work for you

16 | Hospitality

WELCOME TO THE AGE OF ALTERNATIVE

MEAT Enquire infoAU@lhf.net

BUSINESS PROFILE // Club Colombia

Club Colombia Diego Reyes came to Australia as a student to improve his English.

He stayed to share Colombian culture through food and coffee.

WORDS Madeline Woolway LIKE MANY COLOMBIANS, Diego Reyes

Reyes. When the business opened, Reyes

authentic Colombian cuisine, so we don’t

stay for six months while he improved his

Colombian food, too.

used to eat in Colombia; it reminds me of

originally moved to Australia with plans to English language skills. While completing

was surprised to hear people asking about

his Masters degree at the University of

Initially, Reyes capitalised on the interest

industry for employment. With university

such as arepas, but eventually saw an

Melbourne, he turned to the hospitality

qualifications in business administration

and economics under his belt, plus family ties to the Colombian coffee industry, it

made sense to open a café in Australia’s self-proclaimed coffee capital.

So, in November 2014, he launched

opportunity to do more. “People started

looking for a new experience. “It’s a

coming and coming and coming,” he says.

“In the end, the shop was too small, so I thought, ‘We have to open something a little bit bigger’.”

“Something bigger” is Club Colombia, a

space, and what started as a small coffee

they’re different beasts with different

food and culture hub. “I opened up a

coffee shop because coffee is very familiar to me — my Grandfather was a farmer

at a coffee plantation in Colombia,” says 18 | Hospitality

The approach attracts two types of

consumers: Colombians looking for

restaurant with an extensive menu, alcohol

shop quickly developed into a Colombian

my family and traditions.”

by offering traditional Colombian dishes

Cento Mani, a casual café in central

Melbourne. The business outgrew the

do fusion,” says Reyes. “The food is what I

license and live Latin music. Although

menus and styles of service, both venues

have the same aim: to promote Colombian

memories of home and non-Colombians challenge because you must satisfy two

different audiences with the same product,” says Reyes. “The answer is authenticity.”

For Colombians, the menu — and the

restaurant’s fit out — are a ticket home.

For non-Colombians who’ve yet to try the country’s food, it’s a curiosity. “It really

is something different here in Australia,” says Reyes.

culture. They also share a common

Colombian cuisine is predominantly

remaining authentic. “The idea is to have

and Spanish influences.

challenge — offering innovative food while

defined by regionality, indigenous produce

new to our range CODE 1-659 8 SERVES | 115g

vegan mud cake

V

Mouth-watering muddy vegan chocolate cake topped with a chocolate rosette sprinkled with zingy freeze dried raspberries.

CODE 1-658 6 SERVES | 98g

banoffee tart

Square chocolate tart shell, filled with banana laced caramel, topped with fresh cream, banana chips, and chocolate drizzles.

Hot chocolate and cheese

CODE 1-662 8 SERVES | 95g

orange & almond cake Persian inspired cake of orange & almond meal, drizzled with sweet white glaze, finished with a sprinkle of cranberries & pistachios.

GF DF

“We seek to explain how ingredients and recipes connect us with our land, our traditions and our memories.”

– Diego Reyes

CODE 1-771 | 16 SERVES | 2.29kg

cookies & cream cheesecake Showcasing whole cookies in cold set cheesecake folded with cookie crumbs, covered with dark chocolate glaze dripping lusciously down the sides, finished with white chocolate curls and sweet white peaks.

priestleys-gourmet.com.au

BUSINESS PROFILE // Club Colombia

“I like the idea of being an ambassador for our culture.”

– Diego Reyes

our loved ones. We want to explain how

ingredients and recipes connect us with our land, our traditions and our memories.”

Transitioning from one business to two has complicated things, but in some ways it’s

made life easier, too. While operating two

hospitality businesses comes with increased financial responsibility — more rent, more suppliers and more bank loans — there’s been an unforeseen advantage. “The

cashflow gives you the opportunity to have a team to help you,” says Reyes. “When I

had one business, I had to be an accountant, plumber, electrician, graphic designer,

publicist, waiter, manager and dishwasher.”

The Colombian landscape is marked

by mountainous terrain and the nation is flanked by two oceans — the Pacific and the Atlantic. These features demarcate different regions, with each home to a

wide range of indigenous produce. Reyes

tries to offer something from every region at the restaurant.

From the Pacific comes encocado, a

currently on the menu. The traditional

devote extra energy to strategy and forward

with a typical Colombian sauce of tomato,

Colombian cuisine in Australia. Reyes

option uses dried beans, chorizo and bacon coriander and onion. It’s topped with a fried egg and comes with an arepa. To

cater for different dietaries, the venue also offers a chicken and lentil option and a vegetarian version.

The difference between the dishes made

fish fillet cooked in coconut sauce, while

by the farmers hundreds of years ago

plantain is local to the Atlantic. Inland,

down to freshness and presentation. “The

a prawn ceviche served with fried green in cities such as Medellin, where Reyes

was born, dishes including Bandeja Paisa,

which incorporates beans, rice and a range of land proteins, are typical.

Some dishes can be found across numerous

regions. Calentado, which means to ‘reheat’, is one of the most famous alongside Bajeda Paisa. Historically, farmers would cook for

the whole day and reheat it the day after to prevent food waste.

But that’s not the way it’s done at Club

Colombia, where three variations are 20 | Hospitality

The upshot is time to think. Reyes can

planning around promoting authentic

believes there’s a great opportunity because it’s not something many here are familiar

with. “The fact that not many people know about our culture makes [the process]

longer and more expensive in terms of

communications and publicity,” says Reyes.

and those made at Club Colombia comes

Successfully managing a café and a

farmers just wanted to feed themselves,”

courage to think big. The plan is to create a

says Reyes. “We want each dish to be an experience for the customer.”

Part of the experience is created through

interactions between staff and guests. Given

restaurant has also given Reyes the

consolidated concept that can be replicated

across Australia. It’ll be a concept that shows people Colombia has more to offer than dramatised stories about Pablo Escobar.

The Club Colombia team is beginning

the promotion of Colombian culture is part

to explore modern cuisine, using the

take the time to explain their traditions to

them for hundreds of years, while using

of Reyes’ business goals, he and his team

diners. “We talk about the ingredients and their cultivation in Colombia,” says Reyes.

“We also tell them stories about how each dish takes us to our home, our family and

same ingredients their land has given

contemporary techniques. “I like the idea of being an ambassador for our culture,” says Reyes. “It’s something I want to keep doing.” ■

DRINKS // Coffee Single O’s batch taps

No foam-o

Batch, drip, pour over — microfoam-free coffee is on the rise and specialty cafés are making waves.

WORDS Madeline Woolway AUSTRALIA IS AN espresso nation. When

brewed filter coffee via self-serve taps.

with them cappuccinos and lattes. Soon,

coffee, like a pour over or Aeropress,” says

version: the flat white. It now rivals the

cup at a time of filter is labour-intensive,

Italians arrived post-war, they brought Australian cafés invented their own

Hemsworth brothers as one of our most

popular cultural exports, with Australianstyle cafés proliferating in countries such

“It’s essentially the same as any filter

No matter the brand, most batch brewers

[so] we make it in a bigger vat and can

water over coffee. The technology allows

serve more of it.”

It’s the same thing as the pot coffee of

American diners, albeit made with more

black coffee left to languish.

to America, you’ll see exactly the same

When Coffea arabica made its way from

the forests of Ethiopia to Yemen and then

precision and better beans. “But if you go machines we use,” says Lindsay.

up into Turkey, it was brewed with water

Another Sydney institution, The Grounds,

coffee is often associated with cheap pot

methods for black coffee including espresso,

and taken black. Despite its history, black coffee — the kind poured in American

diners. But specialty cafés are trying to

also has a roster of different brewing

pour over, batch, cold drip and French press.

“Each has a unique flavour profile and

change the dialogue.

presents coffees in different ways,” says

Single O is one of them. The Sydney

espresso is the most popular, but people

roaster offers a range of milk-free options at their flagship café in Surry Hills from

espresso to pour over, Aeropress and batch

Lindsay, which means more time for

serving customers. What it doesn’t mean is less attention to detail. In fact, the result is the opposite; filter coffee made with

well-roasted and correctly brewed beans

can reveal characteristics that are erased in milk-based espresso drinks.

“If you get the development of the coffee

right and make it as batch brew or filter

coffee, it’s a great way to taste the coffee,” says Lindsay.

are always keen to try new things (or old

used for, the Single O team sticks to a set of

things) and new ways of enjoying coffee.”

Despite the number of options available

was installed in an effort to boost sales of

still opt for milk coffees. “But I have noticed

22 | Hospitality

baristas to ‘set and forget’, explains

While Lindsay doesn’t like to dictate what

— far more than that of milk-based coffees

filter coffee. The new system offers batch-

perform the same task — they pour hot

head roaster Nick Ferguson. “Obviously,

filter. In April, the venue was remodelled and a world-first batch-brew prototype

processing and brew methods,” he says.

head of retail Angus Lindsay. “Making one

as the US. Here, microfoam continues to

reign supreme, as it has for 50 years, with

and people asking about different origins,

purposes beans should or shouldn’t be

guidelines. The batch taps aim to celebrate

the diversity of single-origin specialty coffees.

“We roast our filter coffee a certain way so

— Ferguson estimates 90 per cent of people

you can really taste differences between each

a trend for more black coffee over the years

Kenyan and a Colombian and they all taste

one,” says Lindsay. “We’ll have an Ethiopian,

Sourcing premium coffees comes at

system and taste each one. There are

eschewing milk are offset — both Single

things all the time can go over to our tap pretty big differences in taste.”

Ferguson agrees high-quality coffee

can be enjoyed in a number of ways,

a cost, meaning any savings made by

O and The Grounds charge the same, if not more for their filter coffees as they do milk-based espressos.

“Milk coffees are generally made

but some are great roasted and brewed

with our house blend,” says Ferguson.

are more developed than filters for

according to their cup quality, but they

using specific methods. “Espresso roasts example,” he says. “Espresso turns the volume up on everything, so it’s good to maximise the sweetness, push the

roast, emphasise body, juiciness and the like while not having too much acidity.

Whereas filter brew methods are suited

“These coffees are also solid coffees paid can be regionals. For black [coffees],

we source high-grade, single-origin and

small-lot coffees and pay a high price for them. However, in our case, we adjust the price accordingly.”

to lighter roasts. The emphasis being on

The impact of the batch taps is already

fruits and sparkling acidity.”

serving batch brew for four years. “Before

making the coffees ‘pop’ [with] bright

Over a number of years, The Grounds

has established relationships with

growers and traders from countries

including Ethiopia, Rwanda, Burundi, Panama, Colombia and Brazil and

apparent at Single O, which has been we got the tap system going, [batch]

was probably 5 per cent of total coffee

volume,” says Lindsay. “With the taps, it’s probably more like 15 per cent.”

The team is happy to see uptake

the coffees they’ve procured are best

isn’t slowing several months after

attributes can shine says Ferguson.

batch,” says Lindsay. ■

enjoyed without milk so their unique

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DRINKS // Coffee

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FEATURE // Kitchen gardens

Kitchen bounty From 2000-square-metre rooftops to small courtyards, venues around the country are growing what they can and reaping the rewards.

THE OCCUPATION OF a chef is anchored

He and his team will work closely with

talk, only a few find the time to get out of

Adrian Baiada. “There are things I use on a

WORDS Madeline Woolway

that have taken matters into their own

by produce, but despite all the farm-to-fork the kitchen and into the field.

Hospitality looks at three venues

regular basis and then there are the things I would like to see trialed,” says Howard.

The relationship is one of collaboration,

hands by building on-site gardens. From

and Howard is personally driven by an

and TarraWarra Estate’s quarter-acre patch

menus. “We’ve tried to create a system

Melbourne’s soon-to-open Acre Brickworks to a small courtyard at the back of Hearth & Soul, there’s ample inspiration for operators of any size.

Acre Farm & Eatery will launch in late 2019 in Burwood Brickworks, a new development in Melbourne’s east.

ethos of allowing producers to guide his where it’s not about what I want to do,” he says. “It’s more a case of letting the farmer or producer telling us what’s good, what’s in season, what’s about to be grown and

what they can harvest without causing too much stress on the environment.”

With 2000 square metres of productive

At TarraWarra Estate in the Yarra Valley,

farming beds, high-intensity greenhouses,

with a gardener. The quarter-acre of land is

agricultural space featuring on-grade

native bees, worms, hen houses and more, the project is one of the largest of its kind in Australia.

The group’s executive head chef Gareth

Howard will draw heavily from the on-site farm when creating the eatery’s menus.

24 | Hospitality

urban farmer and environmental educator

head chef Mark Ebbels also works closely

dedicated to producing vegetables for the

cellar door restaurant. “Variety-wise there’s more than enough — we probably get 60

per cent from the garden. The predicament we have is with quantity.”

On the other hand, produce such as

enough to secure somewhere with a lovely

touch with the seasons and what’s actually

team copped half a tonne of pumpkin and

build a courtyard herb garden and veggie

good idea, but then we had strawberries

producing bumper crops. This year, the

hauled in 200 kilograms of eggplant by July.

Managing the uncertainty requires

communication; if the kitchen wants 100

courtyard,” she says. “We were able to

patch and that was the first thing we did [when opening the venue].”

It’s not big: there’s a large planter box,

kilograms of one ingredient a month, the

a smaller patch of earth, lots of pots and

needs to go in the ground to achieve the

every kind of growing capacity we can,”

gardener needs to work out how much

correct yield. And when there’s oversupply, it’s time to get creative. This year, it meant

drying leftover eggplants and putting them aside for eventual use in a dashi stock.

It may not be practical, but ebbs and flows are all part of nature’s cycle and seeing it

in action is reason enough to install some kind of veggie patch says Rachel Jelley,

around later [than normal]. I would have assumed they were over.”

Junior chefs are taught early to respect

the ingredients they work with. “As a chef

says Jelley.

chef to order what’s needed,” says Ebbels.

Regardless of yield, all three venues

argue there are plenty of benefits to reap from on-site gardens. It’s less about a

better bottom line or control over supply and more about the effect on attitudes, creativity and skill.

Ebbels grew up on a veggie farm in

the Yarra Valley, and has relished the

Newtown, the venue has limited space,

inspire his menu. “It puts pressure on you

but that hasn’t stopped Jelley. “I was lucky

so early this year and the tomatoes were

bamboo tripods. “We basically harness

owner of Hearth & Soul.

Situated in the Sydney suburb of

growing,” he says. “I thought I had a pretty

opportunity to let the on-site garden

to be more creative and it gets you more in

de partie, you normally rely on the head “With a garden outside, you can go and

pick it, develop an understanding of when it grows and why. That changes how they treat [the produce].”

Although the farm at Acre’s Camperdown location is maintained by Pocket City, Howard has seen the effect of having

produce growing in sight of the kitchen.

“Chefs take a bigger responsibility in

knowing where their produce is from, how it’s harvested and the amount of time and

Mark Ebbels

TarraWarra Estate

“It gets you much more in touch with the seasons and what’s actually growing.” – Mark Ebbels

TarraWarra Estate

September 2019 | 25

FEATURE // Kitchen gardens

pumpkins and eggplants are known for

FEATURE // Kitchen gardens

Rachel Jelley

Gareth Howard

effort it’s taken to get it into the kitchen,”

“Chefs take a bigger responsibility in knowing where their produce is from, how it’s harvested and the amount of time and effort it’s taken to get it into the kitchen.” – Gareth Howard

he says. “It’s been refreshing to watch the youngsters come into our kitchen and

produce from our own garden,” says Jelley.

But self-sufficiency isn’t the point. The

learn that just because an avocado is in the

garden has cemented the team’s seasonal

it’s good in winter — and it’s actually a

out in front of their eyes. “It breeds respect

supermarkets all year round doesn’t mean strain on the environment. They produce better dishes as a result.”

Given Acre Brickworks will draw

predominantly from the rooftop farm,

approach because the seasons are played

for your farmers and your suppliers,” adds Jelley. “It completely blows my mind what they’re doing at a much larger scale.”

chefs will need to develop the capability

For most venues, a quarter-acre garden

“Sometimes extraordinary things like a

rooftop farm in Australia. While enviable,

to respond to unexpected events.

huge thunderstorm or prolonged bought of 46-degree days will heavily affect yield,”

he says. “We need to be ready to adapt to that and to develop or change our menus

is unrealistic, let alone the largest urban they aren’t necessary either. The lessons

detailed by TarraWarra and Hearth & Soul can be learned with much less.

“No matter the circumstances, everybody

at the drop of a hat. It’s about us being

should have one patch of dirt, even if

menus in the moment.”

industry works with nature and that is

capable enough to use products and write

A similar attitude defines the pace

of kitchen life at Hearth & Soul, too.

it’s just a herb in a pot,” says Jelley. “The what we’re doing — without nature, we have nothing. It’s our raw product.”

Gardening and cooking go hand-in-hand

Often singled out as a non-stop rollercoaster

leaving a career in finance. “We don’t

might be able to take a leaf out of nature’s

for Jelley, who opened the venue after

really control when dishes come on and off our menu,” she says.

The garden is too small to support the

venue, so produce from local suppliers is 26 | Hospitality

integral. “We supplement our menu with

of a profession, the hospitality industry book. “There are times of growth and

abundance and times of rest and slowness, and all of that is okay,” says Jelley. “And that’s okay for us as humans, too.” ■

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Pumpkin ceramic by Mal Meiers

FEATURE // Hospo hobbies

Break free Hospitality is one hell of an industry to be a part of, but it can also be engrossing — and not in a good way.

We speak to a chef and a front of house gun who prove there’s more to life outside the bubble.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Marina Neil; Josh Vincent

IT’S NOT HARD to get caught up when

quickly turned into a passion project. “I

Fun people! And that’s just the tip of the

program for white collar workers. After

you work in hospitality. Food! Drinks!

iceberg. Throw in the long hours and afterwork socialising, and you’re on the fast

that, I really fell in love with the sport.”

Javier Ashton was quick to shake the

track to becoming a die-hard hospitalian.

perfectly understandable loss, but had to

craft is a badge of honour, but taking a

Interestingly, boxing wasn’t the reason

Sure, being 100 per cent devoted to your step away can make all the difference, personally and professionally.

Hospitality talks to two pros doing just

that. There’s more to Kylie Javier Ashton than her role as general manager of

Momofuku Seiobo — she can also throw a mean punch — and Mal Meiers isn’t just a great head chef; he’s a ceramicist, too.

Four years ago, Kylie Javier Ashton lost her first amateur boxing match. “It was super disheartening even though it’s your first

fight,” she says. You see, Javier Ashton is an all or nothing person, and while she originally started boxing for fitness, it 28 | Hospitality

joined a gym that ran a 12-week training

take a year-long break due to an injury.

why she ended up in surgery. “I broke a

glass while polishing and got stitches seven years ago,” she says. Yes, Javier Ashton had glass in her hand for seven years

without realising. “It started to shift in my hand because of boxing, so I had an X-ray

and they said I had a lot of glass in there.”

After recovering from surgery, the front

of house gun set herself a goal of competing in her second fight. “I changed gyms and

started training with a coach who works with some of the girls in the Australian team,”

says Javier Ashton. “From there, I started to take it more seriously because I had people around me who were athletes.”

Mal Meiers

Mal Meiers’ story is a little different. The Subo chef pursued ceramics as a means

to rise above the competition. “I wanted to give myself an edge for the Appetite

for Excellence program,” he says. “I guess I didn’t have the confidence in myself to

be able to cook well enough to win.” But

Meiers soon realised how difficult making

Bogey Hole ceramic with red gurnard crudo, coastal greens and seaweed

plates really was. “I thought I could do it

naturally high on the agenda, but Javier

competition, but it was a big awakening,”

commitment and set goals — even if it

two months prior and have plates for the he says.

After the program was over, Meiers

enrolled in a course at his local pottery studio and started to experiment with

different techniques. “Initially, I started throwing, but then I saw people in the

studio doing handling and I sort of tripped over my own style,” he says.

More importantly, the chef says making

ceramics went on to play a life-altering

role. Meiers is open about his struggles with depression and anxiety and is

the founder of Food for Thought, an

organisation that raises mental health

awareness in the industry. “It became one

of the tools in my toolbox to break my selfdestructive behaviour and it allowed me to

Ashton says it’s important to make a

house studio, which means he can make

means forgetting the snooze button exists.

Bennelong (he worked there from 2016–

“It’s hard, especially because I generally

don’t finish work until midnight,” she says.

“I go straight home to bed and wake up at

6:00am to train most mornings. I go to the gym after only having five or six hours of sleep, but I love it — it keeps me sane.”

found hobby. “We had four days on and

three days off,” he says. “I was at my most

creative and had great work–life balance. I could spend a day making plates.”

His recent move to Newcastle has also

of things. “At first, I was like, ‘The times

as the inspiration for a dish served at

says it took a while to get into the swing don’t suit me, if there was a class at 9am

that would be better’, but I knew I had to

suck it up and commit. I gave myself a six-

month period when I first started the early

morning training. I thought if I made it the new normal, it wouldn’t be as hard.”

Mind games also came into the equation,

A career in hospitality can be all-

to train,” she says. “Mentally, if I didn’t

After coming off a long shift, sleep is

17) was just as conducive to his new-

pushed along Meiers’ creativity, with

especially once Javier Ashton committed

professionals to pursue other interests.

plates at his leisure, but says the roster at

While Javier Ashton is fighting fit, she

get myself back on track,” he says.

consuming and leave little time for

Meiers recently set up his own in-

to a fight. “It really gave me the motivation get up, [I was thinking] my opponent

would already be up and training, so that motivated me.”

local attraction the Bogey Hole serving Subo. “There’s a beautiful swimming

hole here and no one had really done

anything around it, so I spent about six months planning it, getting the shape

right and testing different glazes,” says

the chef. “I created bowls that look like

the Bogey Hole and then I built a seafood dish around it. It’s probably the greatest expression of the ability I have as a ceramicist and a chef.”

Once you establish a reputation in the

industry, it tends to stick. In Sydney, Javier September 2019 | 29

FEATURE // Hospo hobbies

“I’m being creative for the kitchen, but I’m not thinking about food.”

– Mal Meiers

FEATURE // Hospo hobbies

“I’m not thinking about anybody else when I’m in the ring ... It’s my time to think solely about me and be present and in the moment.”

– Kylie Javier Ashton

Kylie Javier Ashton at a boxing match

Ashton would be hard-pressed to go out without

bumping into a familiar face. That’s not to say it’s

to pursue interests outside of Subo and is open

a part of a tight-knit community — but the lines

a match. Meiers says the perfect example is a

a bad thing — there’s nothing better than being inevitably blur between the person and the job.

The Seiobo GM says it was months before

anyone in the gym asked her what she did for work and says boxing has opened up a new

world where restaurants aren’t the be all and

end all. “If you go to a restaurant or bar, you’re still representing and people know you from your restaurant, so you always feel like you

have to be switched on,” she says. “At the gym, Javier Ashton In 2014,

trains with

Meiers

women who

started

are part of

making

the Australian

plates

Olympic team

The Seiobo

primarily

GM is also

makes

a judge for

ceramics

Appetite for

modelled off

Excellence

vegetables

malt chocolate dessert that was conceptualised

during an afternoon brewing session. “My sous

chef is an amateur brewer and we made a brown ale,” he says. “I thought it would be a good idea to slow-roast Jerusalem artichokes in the ale

and make a sorbet.” The team created another

component for the dessert with the spent grain,

which was turned into flour for a chocolate cake.

Making plates and getting in the ring are two

ourselves and help each other be better.”

closely tied. Javier Ashton says she’s become a

don’t really care. We’re all there to take care of Boxing has also allowed Javier Ashton to

reach milestones that aren’t affiliated with her

job. “When you work in restaurants, you give so

much of yourself to everyone, and as a manager,

very different vocations, but the benefits are

more confident person and Meiers is accepting

of the fact things don’t always turn out the way you expect.

Javier Ashton has overcome the performance

you want to help everyone achieve goals, so

anxiety she initially experienced when getting in

I’m not thinking about anybody else when I’m in

reaching. “When things happen at work I’m like:

the ring getting punched in the face. It’s literally

my time to think solely about me and be present and in the moment. It’s almost like a form of

meditation because you have to be self-aware.”

Meiers says making ceramics has provided

the ring and says the flow-on effect has been far ‘This is easy, I’ve been punched in the face and I

do this for fun’,” she says. “It makes me a calmer

person at work and my husband says I’m a better person to be around because I’m happier when I’m active and have goals outside of work.”

Meiers admits he gets a little carried away

him with another outlet to be creative without

at times, but five years of making ceramics

hobby is directly connected to his profession,

probably the biggest thing I’ve learned from

being in the confines of the kitchen. While his he doesn’t think it’s a bad thing. “In my own

way, it’s an escape, but it’s familiar and safe,”

he says. “It allows me to think differently about

cooking without actually thinking about cooking.

I’m being creative for the kitchen, but I’m not thinking about food.”

30 | Hospitality

to implementing them at the restaurant if it’s

they don’t understand restaurants and they

there’s little time to do something for yourself.

Meiers

The chef also encourages members of his team

has helped him take a step back. “Patience is ceramics and to be okay when things turn out differently,” he says. “In ceramics, you can be super consistent, but sometimes things will

happen that are completely out of your control.”

So what’s the moral of the story? There’s more

to gain from flying the coop than staying in it. ■

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FEATURE // Cheese

Local matters

When it comes to cheese plates, chefs are taking a local — not a global — approach.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Bronwyn Silver; Jane Allen; Nikki To AUSTRALIA PRODUCES OVER 377,000

tonnes of cheese a year, which is almost

half the amount churned out by countries including France and Italy. The number

of Australian artisan producers is small,

but the cheesemakers are mighty, and so

is the dining public’s interest in products with provenance.

Bennelong’s Rob Cockerill and Mode

Kitchen & Bar’s Francesco Mannelli are two chefs forgoing imported cheeses

and championing products that put local makers on the map. The chefs talk to

Hospitality about the importance of storytelling and seasonality, how to create a

balanced cheese offering and why they

place just as much emphasis on cheese as any other dish on the menu.

For Bennelong head chef Rob Cockerill and executive chef Peter Gilmore, an

all-Australian cheese offering was on

the cards from the start. “We wanted to

champion Australian producers and step

away from using a world-wide selection,”

says Cockerill. “We have beautiful products that hold their heads up with the rest of

the world and the cheese-making practices are getting better and better.”

The restaurant’s cheese offering revolves,

but sticks to the same format of a blue

cheese or blue mould, a hard or cheddar

style and a soft cheese (La Luna or Brigid’s Well) by Holy Goat. “The cheese plate has three cheeses Pete and I feel are at their

best at the time,” says Cockerill. “By using

those three varieties, we have a selection of what’s shining at that moment.”

By putting on different products

throughout the year, the restaurant is

also able to communicate the concept of

seasonality to customers, whether they’re

regulars or first-timers. “The flavour profile Pecora Dairy cheeses

32 | Hospitality

will change throughout the year and can

change dramatically,” says Cockerill. “The

FEATURE // Cheese

cheeses can really capture a season and

and they gain more knowledge and learn

animal is doing and even the cheesemaker.”

customers,” says Mannelli. Interestingly,

are reflective of the time, place, what the

new terms to communicate with the

On the other side of the water, Francesco

cheese sales spike every time staff undergo

Mannelli is taking a similar approach at

training. “After a few days, they upsell the

Mode. “We like to showcase Australian

cheeses — it’s incredible,” says the chef.

products at the restaurant and keep things as local as possible,” says the chef. “My

You can’t do much to make Australian

hard and soft cheeses, but at the same time

accompaniments can certainly complement

first idea was to put on aged, hard, semi-

cheeses better than they are, but considered

I like cheeses made with different kinds of

a cheese plate. Bennelong makes seasonal

milk. Currently, we have goat, sheep and

jams such as beetroot or plum that have

cow and we had buffalo in the past.”

been created to work with the flavour

Mode offers products from Holy Goat,

profile of each cheese. For example, Bruny

Pecora Dairy and Pyengana Dairy, which

Mannelli says are representative of the high

calibre of cheeses Australia is producing. “We have many guests from the US or Europe, so it’s good to showcase these iconic cheeses.”

There’s no doubt consumer interest has

risen in cheese (#cheeseboard has over 593,000 images on Instagram), and so

has their interest in the story behind the

product. Cockerill says the background of a producer is a big part of every component Bennelong puts on a plate and believes it

adds depth to the guest experience. “Some of the smaller artisan companies aren’t

able to get into the spotlight and we like to

put the best products in front of guests and

Island’s raw milk C2, Holy Goat’s La Luna Rob Cockerill

“We wanted to champion Australian producers and step away from using a worldwide selection.”

– Rob Cockerill

make it a big celebration,” he says.

and Berry’s Creek Riverine Blue are served

with rhubarb jam and a selection of breads.

“We have grissini, freshly baked brioche

and walnut and raisin bread which are each placed next to the cheese they accompany,” says Cockerill. “We wanted to show off the products by keeping it minimal.”

Mannelli switches up accompaniments

according to each variety and chooses to serve Holy Goat with truffle honey,

Pyengana cheddar with orange marmalade and Jamberoo Mountain Blue with Chianti gelatin. Like Cockerill, Mannelli changes

the accompaniments according to season.

“We use seasonal fruit to make the jam

and the cheeses are also served with dried fruit, fresh fruit and nuts.”

Just like any other dish, staff are briefed

A range of breads are added to the cheese

on tasting notes and dietary requirements

board, with the selection curated to appeal

three to four times a year at Mode with

moment, we have a Sardinian flatbread

at Bennelong and Mode. Training is held

to a wide range of preferences. “At the

the restaurant’s cheese suppliers, front

called pane carasau, which works well with

of house staff and the kitchen team. “We go through all the cheeses on the menu

the soft cheese and we also have rye bread, La Luna

gluten-free bread and grissini,” he says.

September 2019 | 33

FEATURE // Cheese Francesco Mannelli

Holy Goat’s Ann-Marie and Carla

Cheese is an expensive product for restaurants, which means staff

room temperature during service is one of the best ways to

Cockerill says chefs keep a close eye on stock to ensure they aren’t

the different textures of cheeses, I store them in the fridge to

need to be on the ball when it comes to storage and preparation.

over ordering. “For fridge room, they’re big items to have en plus and they’re expensive, so minimising ordering and only prepping what we need for the day,” he says.

Bennelong work out an average of how many portions of cheese

they sell per service to ensure minimal wastage. “We don’t go too

far ahead in cutting cheeses, and having someone working on that

serve cheeses, but when considering seasons, temperatures and make sure they aren’t cold when they arrive at the table,” says

Mannelli. “The flavour and texture can change if the temperature and humidity aren’t right.” The chef also tries to steer clear of

plastic wrap where possible, instead using baking paper to let the cheeses breathe.

The local cheese industry is around 30 years young, but artisan

section as part of their mise en place is to have waste control.”

cheesemakers are hitting their stride and creating products that

and runs between 12–15 degrees Celsius. “Storing cheese at

together a stellar offering that really is the big cheese. ■

Mode has a dedicated cheese fridge which has high humidity

compete on a global level. Chefs don’t need to look far to put

Cheese 101 with Penny Lawson from Penny’s Cheese Shop Seasonality

raw milk cheese, goat’s milk and buffalo.

There’s a huge variation seasonally with

Look for a soft, a hard and a blue.

the pastures the livestock are eating and it changes the flavour of the milk. In spring, the grass is young and soft and you will find herbal and floral notes. In summer, you will get more straw flavours coming through.

34 | Hospitality

Portioning and storage Air-tight containers are good as they keep the aroma within the cheese box and the cheese doesn’t take on the aroma of what else is in the fridge. Most people like cheese at room

The perfect cheese plate

temperature, so portion control needs to be

You want something that changes with the

considered so you don’t have excess cheese

seasons and has a range of textures and

out that has to be packed away. Guides to

strengths. There has been a reach towards

cut particular cheeses such as large blocks of

non-bovine cheeses such as sheep’s milk,

cheddar are accessible to chefs online.

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FEATURE // Pastry Tonka’s gulab jamun

Here to kuih The preservation of childhood memories is driving a new generation of chefs to reconnect with the traditional pastry techniques behind classic desserts from across Asia.

WORDS Madeline Woolway CHILDHOOD MEMORIES OF rolling

Junda Khoo, owner of Sydney

Coda’s ice cream sandwich, for example,

sweet glutinous rice dumplings with

restaurants Ho Jiak Strathfield and

features a kuih loyang, a deep-fried batter

Kay-Lene Tan is a pastry chef. She

path, but has also set about learning

among other dry ingredients. The light,

her grandma and mother are the reason graduated from culinary school, worked

at Joel Robuchon’s flagship restaurant in

Singapore and with Andres Lara at Jason Atherton’s restaurant, Pollen.

As head pastry chef at Melbourne

restaurants Coda and Tonka (both owned

by Adam D’Sylva), Tan has long developed

Haymarket, came to cooking via a different the techniques needed to make Nyonya cuisine. As they did for Tan, childhood

memories drove Khoo to pursue a career

in the kitchen and a particular passion for kuih, the famous Nyonya snack, has seen him using traditional methods.

But there’s a reason desserts, such as

desserts with flavour profiles inspired by

kuih, have fallen prey to automation: they’re

means she often turns to classical French

Hospitality speaks to Tan and Khoo about

memories of Singapore, but her training techniques. The methods used by her

family — those that form the bedrock of

labour-intensive and time consuming. why they think it’s worth it.

Peranakan or Nyonya cuisine — are slowly

The menus at Coda and Tonka currently

chefs across Australia and even in the

traditional pastry elements from South and

being forgotten, not just by Tan, but pastry countries they originate.

36 | Hospitality

composed of coconut milk and rice flour crispy crackers are made by dipping a

copper mould into the batter and then into

a deep fryer. Mass-produced kuih loyang are readily available from suppliers and shops

— a tempting option for time-poor kitchens.

“Personally, I feel like it’s a technique

that’s not practiced regularly anymore,

which is sad, because it’s something my

Mum used to make when I was younger,” says Tan. “So when I started trying to

figure out how to do it for Coda’s menu, it was pretty interesting for me.”

have a number of desserts that incorporate

The process of learning how to make

South-East Asia.

opportunity to reconnect Tan with her

the pastry again might have been an

come from unexpected places.

After winning the HostPlus Hospitality

scholarship in 2018, Tan spent time at Hisa Franko and Atelier Crenn, where she discovered similar pastries were

being made, albeit using slightly different

practices. “I saw them using techniques that were very similar to the kuih rose, which is why I came back and thought, ‘Why don’t I put this on the menu?’” says Tan.

At Dominque Crenn’s San Francisco

restaurant Atelier Crenn, heart-shaped

pastries were made by putting a mould dip into liquid nitrogen. “They were dipping

the mould into liquid nitrogen, then into a batter and then back into liquid nitrogen

— it’s the same technique but using a cold

“You can recreate a dish, but the flavours and techniques you’ve known since you were a child are usually the ones you can recreate best.”

– Kay-Lene Tan in India, they have something incredibly

similar called achu murukku, which is on the menu at Tonka,” says Tan. “It’s cool

when you actually do the research about

all these techniques and see that it goes all the way back to the spice trade.”

With a long history behind them,

method,” says Tan.

continuing importance in their cuisine of

an equivalent with batter that had been

restaurants from the States to Slovenia,

On the other hand, Hisa Franko made

aerated in a siphon canister. “The kuih

rose is well known in South-East Asia, but

FEATURES // Pastry

Peranakan heritage, but inspiration can

origin and a place on the menu at high-end why aren’t more chefs making pastries like the kuih rose in-house?

Coda's ice cream sandwich

Tonka's Apple Muruku

September 2019 | 37

FEATURE // Pastry

“It’s time consuming,” says Tan. “You need

Unfortunately, the cost is often not

make them one by one.”

to pay.

a lot of space and time to stand there and

The same is true for gulab jamun, a sweet

reflected in the price consumers are willing “Traditional cakes aren’t sold as a

common in South Asia. The recipe on Tonka’s

high-end product, which I find funny,”

sous chefs and uses ricotta instead of the

Europe, a cake is going to cost 10 euro

menu was developed by one of the previous traditional paneer. “We do it with ricotta to marry Adam’s Italian and Indian heritage,”

says Tan. “But the technique is pretty much the same as how it’s made traditionally.”

These days, it’s not common to make

says Tan. “When you go to places like

for a piece, whereas, if you go to SouthEast Asia, traditional cakes are a few

dollars — it doesn’t make up for the fact it’s so labour-intensive.”

The kuih sell like hot cakes at Ho

gulab jamun even in India. “What I

Jiak, but that doesn’t make them the

much easier to buy it off the shelf,” says Tan.

promote the offering or list it on the

understand, from my colleagues, is that it’s

The dough needs to be rolled and rested

to the right point so the balls don’t explode when fried, explains Tan. Then, there’s the soaking process, which needs to be long enough for the syrup to sink in.

Space and time are two things restaurant

kitchens don’t have much of. The latter is a particularly big burden for restaurants.

It’s a consideration Khoo and his team at

Ho Jiak have had to work around in order to offer their customers a range of eight

different kuih, from savoury variations like

breadwinner. In fact, Khoo doesn’t

menu; it’s his way of managing the

workload. The Haymarket venue’s Nyonya high tea, which features kuih heavily,

recently experienced a surge in popularity

the experience I want for my

chef comes in each morning, she knows

diners.” – Junda Khoo

limited to bookings. “When my pastry

exactly how many kuih she has to make,” says Khoo. “If we run out, it costs too

much to put someone else on to make more and if we make too much, we’ll need to throw them out.”

At the end of the day, it’s worth it for

day’s kuih ready by midday.

doesn’t come from margins or making

“It’s not common in Australia because

it’s very labour-intensive,” says Khoo. “And labour is one of the most expensive things about having a business in Australia.”

Time is of the essence when it comes

to training, too. For Khoo, a self-taught

cook, kuih have been the most difficult to

perfect. While he was able to rely on taste for many dishes offered at his venues,

kuih require a precision that can only be achieved with persistence.

“It’s very difficult to get it consistent,”

says Khoo, who started learning to make

different kuih using recipes from his aunt.

“And what I did was experiment. It was like ‘redo, redo, redo’ until I was finally happy.”

The finance professional-turned-

restaurateur then had to train a pastry

chef — with the requisite passion for fiddly work — to maintain the section.

38 | Hospitality

“It’s more the service and

following media coverage, so it’s now

pie tee to sweet versions such as kuih lapis.

A pastry chef is on-site from 7am, with the

Junda Khoo

both Tan and Khoo, but the pay-off

money. “My main reason for making kuih is the service and the experience I want for my diners,” says Khoo.

Chefs can benefit from doing things the

old school way, too. When Tan was earning her trade, the most important lessons were about doing things by hand. Following

fundamental processes, like mixing the

batter for a kuih rose or rolling out dough

for gulab jamun, keeps chefs in touch with the culinary arts.

“The one thing that all my travels and

working with different chefs has taught me is to never forget where you came from,” says Tan. “You can recreate a dish, but

the flavours and techniques you’ve known

since you were a child are usually the ones you can recreate best.”

It’s a philosophy that extends beyond

any cuisine and one that can guide any chef. ■

Ho Jiak’s kuih

ADVERTORIAL // TABASCO ®

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MELBOURNE-BASED CHEF ROSS Magnaye says he was blessed to grow up surrounded by delicious food, and his recipe for Thermidor is a mash-up of Australian produce teamed with the flavours of his childhood.

“Every time there is a celebration, we are gifted with beautiful food,” says Magnaye. “My Grandmother Carol used to prepare Thermidor during Christmas.”

While Thermidor is traditionally a French dish that

Follow the recipe to make Moreton Bay bug Thermidor with TABASCO® Habanero Pepper Sauce.

Ingredients 2 Moreton Bay bug tails

sauce, sauté garlic, ginger and lemongrass in a sauce pot.

Magnaye’s version uses a Moreton Bay bug

20g minced lemongrass

instead with a punchy sauce. “My twist is

500ml coconut cream

that I use coconut cream to make the sauce

Fish sauce to taste

instead of cream and cheese,” says the

Shaoxing wine

“celebrate South-East Asian flavours” such as lemongrass. The final touch is adding

Tapioca flour 5g chilli Chopped mixed herbs

TABASCO® Habanero Pepper Sauce to

Shiso to garnish

add fruity but serious heat. “It has the

TABASCO® Habanero Pepper Sauce

true flavours of Jamaican-style peppers blended with mango, papaya, tamarind,

Method

banana and ginger.” ■

1.

TABASCO®, the Diamond and Bottle

2.

4.

Deglaze with shaoxing wine.

5.

Add TABASCO® Habanero Pepper Sauce to taste.

6.

Add the coconut cream and fish sauce to taste.

7.

Add the tapioca slurry and cook out.

8.

Add the bug meat into the coconut béchamel sauce and mix until just cooked.

9.

Take the bug meat off the

Deshell and dice the

heat. Add chillies and chopped

Morton Bay bug meat

mixed herbs.

into small cubes.

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To make the coconut béchamel

10g garlic

combines lobster with a creamy sauce,

Magnaye uses ingredients, which he says

3.

For the coconut béchamel sauce

5g ginger

chef. To achieve a balanced flavour profile,

smooth paste. Set aside.

10. Serve the mix in the shell

Mix tapioca flour with water

and finish with shellfish oil

and stir until it has formed a

and shiso.

Logos are trademarks of McIlhenny Co. September 2019 | 39

BEHIND THE SCENES // Latte art

Latte art with The Grounds An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series.

THERE ARE A NUMBER of things to consider

1

2

3

4

5

6

when creating latte art. Andrew Hunt, Roastery training manager at The Grounds, says it’s important to think about timing; having the steamed milk and the espresso shot finished at the same time will ensure you have smooth, silky milk and thick crema to work with.

There are essentially two stages; developing a canvas of consistent colour by mixing the milk and coffee, then forming the pattern by bringing the milk spout as close to the surface as possible. Hunt recommends starting with the heart pattern before moving on to the tulip and the rosetta.

Method Prepare milk for steaming by pouring into the jug. Set up espresso shot.

When the shot starts pulling, begin steaming the milk.

To get the right ratio of microfoam, start with a half-full jug and stretch the milk until it fills three-quarters of the jug.

Loosen up the crema by giving the cup a gentle swirl. Start pouring the milk slowly from a short distance with a thin stream across the crema breaking it apart with a circular motion.

When the cup is about half to three-quarters full, bring the jug down close to the surface and start floating the pattern.

To create a heart pattern, allow the milk to continue curving around the tip of the milk jug until you get to the top and then bring a thin stream straight through.

Watch the full video at hospitalitymagazine.com.au

40 | Hospitality

EQUIPMENT // Citrus press

Citrus press As useful in the kitchen as they are in the bar.

Seeds and pulp are captured in the device.

Typically made from enamel, plastic or stainless steel.

Extracts juice in one motion.

Used to make cocktails or add a citrus hit to dishes.

Available in different sizes according to citrus

Enamel and plastic

such as lime or

varieties are

lemon.

dishwasher-safe and rust-resistant.

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September 2019 | 41

5 MINUTES WITH ... // Luke Piccolo

Luke Piccolo

2019’s Appetite for Excellence Young Restaurateur on opening Limone Dining, running a regional venue and the importance of staying connected to industry peers.

I MOVED BACK to Griffith in 2015. I was

When you work for yourself, you have to

working at a Michelin-starred restaurant

change your outlook on the industry and

restaurant. Our family café was going to

not only in your restaurant, but in terms of

in Italy while my father was building a

move into that space, but it got to the stage

where I said, ‘This is a bit too nice for a little

country café’, so I proposed I move back and start a restaurant. It was a good opportunity

be aware of everything that’s going on;

I entered Appetite for Excellence. I’m

I had great mentors in Giovanni and

but also other aspects of the business. Even

cooking. We try hard to make sure

everything has a purpose. It’s not just

delicious food; it showcases our area, our people and our producers.

42 | Hospitality

I don’t think you can expect people to

lot, but it was still a massive learning curve.

region I grew up in.

area has given me direction with my

way I run my business.

hold your hand. I always ask questions

small business through my parents helped a

Marilyn from Pilu at Freshwater. They tried

Running my own venue in a regional

great mentors locally that have helped the

competition and trends. Being exposed to

to cement myself and start a restaurant. Plus, I’m a country boy and I’d always loved the

Regional Development Australia have some

their best to show me not just the kitchen, when I moved back to Griffith, they were

the first to offer help. Hospitality is a really

great industry in that way; people are willing to give advice. Regional organisations have also helped me build business acumen so

our restaurant is successful and sustainable.

and start conversations, which is why an advocate for regional cuisine and

regional staff. To be able to showcase

what we do to a national audience is the

best reward we can give our staff. Sitting down and vocalising our business goals

has reaffirmed what we set out to do. It’s reignited the passion. I have a network

now and being surrounded by people who are like-minded and passionate was such an awesome experience. ■

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