Hospitality October 2019

NO.758 OCTOBER 2019

DELIVERY FRIES ARE FINALLY HERE

www.mccainfoodservice.com.au mccainfoodservice

mccainfoodservice www.mccainfoodservice.com.au

NO.758 OCTOBER 2019

SOUTH AUSTRALIAN MUSSELS • FOOD FESTIVALS • DOG-FRIENDLY VENUES

CONTENTS // October

Contents OCTOBER 2019

26

Regulars 6 // IN FOCUS Foot health: the topic you don’t want to talk about, but need to know about.

8 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more.

10 // VANILLA Track the journey of vanilla from vine to bean.

12 // SEAFOOD Are farmed mussels the ultimate sustainable seafood?

14 // COLUMN Hamish Watts on lessons learned growing Applejack.

36

16 // BEST PRACTICE What’s changed about running a venue in the ’90s to now?

18 // PROFILE Cian Fenaughty is the chef taking Pinotta to a new level.

22 // DRINKS Bartenders on cocktail tweaks that stay true to the classics.

56 // BEHIND THE SCENES Josh Niland’s potato scallop.

57 // EQUIPMENT A palette knife is the smooth operator every chef needs.

42 // 5 MINUTES WITH …

Hannah Abraham from il Passaggio.

42

Features 26 // DOG-FRIENDLY VENUES Are dogs really allowed in venues? We reveal the truth behind the dog debate.

30 // STAGING Is the time-honoured tradition worth it for modern chefs?

36 // FOOD FESTIVALS The perks of food festivals; from building brands to fostering community.

42 // BURGERS Crazes come and go, but classic burgers are here to stay.

48 // RECRUITMENT Chefs and front of house on the biggest staffing challenges they’re facing.

54 // SUPERANNUATION Educating employees on the future of their finances is a must.

4 | Hospitality

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

CONGEE TIME Can’t stop thinking about the Koshihikari rice congee topped with chilli fried egg, maple-glazed bacon and grilled cabbage from Quick Brown Fox Eatery in Pyrmont. @madeline.woolway

GAME ON Straight to the Source’s newest chef tour was all about kangaroo and venison — they’re under-utilised, sustainable and delicious when done right. @hospitalitymagazine

Full steam ahead THE OCTOBER ISSUE is a big one. While

hand. Read all about it on p10; I’m sure you

the dust has settled on some major food

will discover something new.

news from the launch of DoorDash, milliondollar wage scandals and the imminent

sustainable seafood series penned by Fishtales’

arrival of heavy hitters David Chang and

John Susman. He kicks off the launch with a

Marco Pierre White on our shores, there’s

look at South Australian farmed mussels on p12.

no denying there’s a buzz in the air. The

Our profile this issue is on young gun Cian

chaos of the festive season is a month or so

Fenaughty who shares how he’s changing

away, and there’s a mad dash to launch new

the game at Melbourne pasta bar Pinotta;

restaurants, menus and products.

check it out on p18. Plus, dog-friendly venues,

Here at Hospitality, it’s full steam ahead 10/10 The house-made pretzel with whipped bottarga was everything and more at 10 William Street. @annabellecloros

Follow us

I am thrilled to announce a three-month

the peaks and falls of food festivals, lessons

(as you can see from the size of this

learned from running a group operation in

edition!) Our produce section examines

Sydney and the lowdown on staging.

one of the most popular pantry staples, vanilla. Journalist Madeline Woolway visited

Until next time,

Heilala’s vanilla plantation in Tonga and

Annabelle Cloros

witnessed the production process first-

Editor

@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

ACTING CIRCULATIONS MANAGER Troy Brookes subscriptions@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymagazine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

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October 2019 | 5

IN FOCUS // Foot health

On the back foot Hospitality professionals are at high risk of injuries to their feet, but there are simple ways to avoid short- and-long term ailments.

WORDS Madeline Woolway IF NEWCASTLE-BASED

common complaint we get is

and steel caps or reinforced

PODIATRIST Damian Mather

plantar fasciitis, which is a strain

toes. “It all adds weight,”

was standing in front of a room

of the band that runs up under

explains Mather. “That impacts

of chefs, he could talk for hours.

the arch.”

the back onto the foot and a lot

Such is the prolific nature of

It’s a condition that tends to

of them lack support.” The result

foot health problems faced by

hit chefs hardest. “The problem

is a strain injury, like plantar

hospitality professionals.

with cheffing is there’s a lot

fasciitis, which most often

of standing still,” says Mather.

causes pain in the heel and

“Walking is better than standing.”

occasionally in the arch.

Back of house or front of house, a number of risks come with restaurant, café, bar and

Fatigue injuries are also

Podiatrists treat persistent

pub jobs. Chefs are often

prevalent across the industry.

and recurring pain, so Mather’s

confined to small spaces while

The conditions of restaurant life

suggests visiting a professional

wait staff are on the move. The

can lead to overuse injuries —

if the pain continues for more

commonality? Both are on their

think repetitive strain injuries and

than a few days. “Looking at the

feet for hours on end, likely on

stress fractures. Whatever the

footwear [chefs wear], a lot of

hard surfaces wearing less-

concern, there are a number of

the boots are good; they’re just

than-optimum footwear.

strategies to reduce discomfort.

flat,” he says. “We often take out

Unsurprisingly, foot pain is a

While foot care, such as keeping nails trimmed and checking

professionals are frequent

for calluses, corns and cuts is

patients at podiatry clinics.

important, it generally applies

typically used for short-term

across the board no matter a

injuries — think heat-molded

the industry in his practice

person’s line of work. Given the

insoles — while chronic pain will

frequently. “Everyone has

nature of hospitality, footwear

usually require a customised

a different shaped foot, so

needs particular attention.

device. Mather says most aches

everybody can have a different

A lot of the safety footwear

favourite kicks are. Here are the most popular results.

New Balance 806 non-slip

a more supportive option.”

Off-the-shelf alternatives are Birkenstocks

and pains can be pinned to one

problem to the next person,”

worn by kitchen staff have two

issue. “It boils down to support …

says the podiatrist. “But the most

things in common; a thick sole

that’s the biggest thing.” ■

6 | Hospitality

We asked chefs on Instagram what their

the flat insole and replace it with

common complaint and hospitality

Mather sees people from

MOST POPULAR

Blundstone boots

For more information or to place an order please contact Paul Kahler: 03 5441 4440 or 0418 769 044

Eagle Foods Australia

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more.

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Andrew Hardy’s new project Celebrated winemaker Andrew Hardy has launched Ox Hardy, a capsule collection of hand-crafted wines. Hardy has released two Shiraz including the 1891 Ancestor Vine Shiraz: 2008 Vintage and the Upper Tintara Vineyard Shiraz: 2016 Vintage. There are just 800 bottles available of the 1891 available, which is crafted from vines grown on a 2.54ha block on the family’s vineyard. The 2016 Shiraz has been sourced from millennium Shiraz plantings on the Hardy family’s Upper Tintara Vineyard. Available from selected retailers. oxhardywines.com.au

Josh Niland’s cookbook has landed The Whole Fish Cookbook Josh Niland $55; Hardie Grant Books Saint Peter and Fish Butchery chef and owner Josh Niland shares his extensive knowledge of seafood in The Whole Fish Cookbook. Described as a “revelation” by Rick Stein and an “inspiring read to return to again and again” by Rene Redzepi, Niland champions lesser-known species and sustainability in his debut book, which encourages readers to use every part of the fish — eyeballs included. You’ll also be able to wrap your head around curing and ageing fish and recreate some of Saint Peter’s most iconic dishes including the perfect fish and chips and cod liver pâté on toast. hardiegrant.com; mrniland.com

S.Pellegrino Young Chef announce Pacific rep Restaurant Lume’s Jose Lorenzo Morales has been named as the winner of the Pacific regional final for the S.Pellegrino Young Chef competition. The commis chef secured the win with his dish named Analogy consisting

Charlie Carrington opens Lomah

of roasted lechón pork belly with shrimp bogoong

Atlas Dining chef Charlie Carrington has unveiled a new concept in

paste, pandan rice cracker,

the location formerly occupied by Colours, which closed in February

latik caramel and tamarind

2018. Lomah revolves around Israeli and Mediterranean flavours and

powder. Lorenzo Morales will

features plenty of vegan and vegetarian options. Diners can expect

represent the Pacific region

pitas stuffed with hummus, slaw and salads and choose from shaved

at the grand finale of the

lamb, smoked fish, chicken or falafel. Meat trays are also available

competition held in Milan next

alongside fries seasoned with za’atar salt. lomah.com.au

year. sanpellegrino.com

8 | Hospitality

Kaiseki restaurant Ishizuka has ushered in the change of season with a new menu. Diners can enjoy nine dishes crafted by head chef Hitoshi Miyazawa from yuba (tofu skin) in a bonito broth with bonito jelly, caviar, salmon roe and sea urchin to sakura mochi and white fish wrapped in sakura leaf with scampi, egg custard and bonito broth. Not to miss the tuna, gurnard and blue cod sashimi. ishizuka.com.au Photography by Georgia Gold

Four Pillars heads to Sydney The gang from Four Pillars are hauling their 70-litre Carl ‘Eileen’ to Sydney for the launch of a home base. Located on Crown Street in Surry Hills, the venue is set to open in early 2020 and will encompass a small bar serving gin cocktails a few nights a week, an on-site

Tales of Japan

distillery, retail shop and room for masterclasses. fourpillarsgin.com.au

Food Artisans of Japan

Photography by Steven

Nancy Singleton Hachisu

Woodburn

$55; Hardie Grant Books Chef and author Nancy Singleton Hachisu has released her fourth book which takes readers straight to the heart of Japanese cuisine. In Food Artisans of Japan, Singleton Hachisu tells the stories of seven Japanese chefs and 24 food artisans who share recipes heralding local ingredients and a dedication to their craft. hardiegrant.com

Archie Rose x Sydney Opera House Sydney distillery Archie Rose has launched two new gins with the Sydney Opera House. Named Outside Gin and Inside Gin, the two spirits showcase distilled botanicals inspired by the harbour setting. Outside Gin is juniper-forward and accented with lemon-scented gum, South Australian yuzu, finger limes, white grapefruit and locally foraged seablite and native seaweed, with Inside Gin described as fruit-driven with native thyme, Australian apricot, raspberry and strawberry gum. The two gins are available at Opera House bars and restaurants along with bottle shops, licenced venues and at Archie Rose. RRP $99 for 700ml. archierose.com.au October 2019 | 9

NEWS // Entrée

Spring has sprung at Ishizuka

PRODUCE // Vanilla

Vanilla

Vanilla is an ingredient familiar to most chefs, but few know of its path from plantation to pastry kitchen.

WORDS Madeline Woolway ILLUSTRATIONS Elena Fombertaux Origins

drainage. Cuttings must be

market value. V.planifolia

anything that doesn’t meet these

True vanilla flavouring is derived

planted with supporting trees

is processed using a variety

standards, or beans that have

from the pods (also referred to as

(tied at intervals as the vine

of methods depending on

split are classified as C-grade by

beans) and seeds of the vanilla

grows) and should ideally be

the producer.

Heilala and used in extracts.

orchid, a climbing vine cultivated

mulched with coconut husks.

in tropical and subtropical regions.

There are two main varieties

The first orchid flowers appear

At Heilala’s facilities in Tonga,

Flavour profiles change based

the beans are first killed in

on processing method, but

approximately three years after

hot water for three minutes to

generally speaking, V.planifolia

planting. For the flowers to fruit

prevent further growth. They

is known for creamy and sweet

of vanilla used for culinary

and produce beans, they must

are then wrapped in plastic and

notes with a rich, buttery aroma.

purposes: V.planifolia and

be pollinated. Natural pollination

stored in a warm container at a

Some chefs refer to the specific

V.tahitensis. The first is known as

is impossible outside of Mexico,

slightly higher temperature for

characteristics of Heilala vanilla

Bourbon vanilla and is associated

where a native bee is capable of

48 hours, after which the pods

as earthy and woody, deeper

with Madagascar despite

pollinating. Instead, pollination

will turn brown and develop

than those of the V.tahitensis,

originating in Mexico more than

must be done by hand early in

their distinctive aroma. Next,

which tends to have sweet, floral

2000 years ago. The second

the morning and within a few

the beans are sun-dried for

and fruity notes.

is a hybrid of V.planifolia that

hours of the flower opening.

two weeks before the plastic is removed and they’re left to dry

Culinary uses

plants will begin to bear fruit

outside during the day and inside

Whole beans are best used

in five to six weeks. In order to

at night for a further month.

in recipes that have liquid

the world’s vanilla supply is

develop the flavour compounds

During this phase, the pods are

components. Split the pods

attributed to Bourbon vanilla

responsible for vanilla’s sought-

massaged daily.

open with a sharp knife and

grown in Madagascar, however

after characteristics, the beans

the variety has recently become

must be left to mature on the

cycle — from hand pollination

adding both to anything from

more widely cultivated, with

vine for up to nine months. Beans

to kitchen — takes roughly

poached fruit to whipped

brands such as Heilala (hey-la-

then need to be handpicked,

18 months.

cream, ice cream, yoghurt,

la) Vanilla producing the variety

with each one assessed

on the islands of Vava‘u and ‘Eua

individually to determine if they

in the Kingdom of Tonga.

are at full maturity.

originated in Tahiti and is now grown throughout the Pacific.

Roughly 80 per cent of

Once pollination occurs, the

On average, the production

scrape out the seeds before

panna cotta and crème brûlée.

Appearance and flavour profile

Whole pods can also be kept

The appearance of processed

Extracts and pastes are

in sugar to add vanilla flavour.

Growing and picking

Processing

beans can vary greatly, and

available and can be used in

The production of vanilla is

Almost all of the end product’s

each pod is graded based on

similar applications.

labour-intensive, requiring

flavour profile is developed

its length, flexibility, colour and

patience as well as a high level

during the curing and drying

sheen. The grading matrix differs

associated with sweet

of care at the planting, picking

process. There are a number of

around the world. Heilala’s

applications, it can work well in

and processing stages.

methods used during this stage.

beans are graded according

savoury contexts as well. Whole

Both varieties grow well

to length: A-grade beans are

beans are perfectly suited to

in hot, humid climates with

brown on the vine; while this

18cm and over, while B-grade

curries and vinaigrettes and pair

moderate rainfall. The plant

ensures maximum glucovanillin

are up to 18cm. No matter the

well with a range of seafood

fairs best when planted on a

content, it also increases the

length, beans should be supple,

along with other white meats

slight gradient to help with soil

chance of splitting, lowering the

plump, glossy, oily and moist —

such as chicken and pork. ■

10 | Hospitality

V.tahitensis pods are left to

While vanilla is predominantly

Global vanilla prices are mostly driven

PRODUCE // Vanilla

by Madagascan production

There are generally 20 flowers on each raceme

Vanilla is one of the most labourintensive crops in the world

100kg of green beans will result in roughly 20kg of dry vanilla pods

Vanilla vines

Vanilla beans

remain productive

have no flavour or

for 12 to 14 years

aroma until they have been cured

High quality beans will be dark brown, glossy, plump and supple October 2019 | 11

SEAFOOD // Mussels

Mussel talk Farmed mussels could be the winning ticket in the sustainability lottery.

WORDS John Susman WHEN TALK OF seafood

Mussels, like clams and

sustainability gets heated, some

oysters, are sessile (immobile)

punters open up faster than

and replicate plants as they filter

new-season mussels, only the

nutrients from water.

rhetoric is not soft and sweet, it’s

algae and whatever else comes

end of them, which help the

their way.

spat attach to rope, and it is on

There’s no land erosion, fertilisers or freshwater used;

these ropes in Boston Bay where mussels get to work.

Here in Australia, we

they produce an omega-3 rich

They’re grown on longlines,

often a wave of emotions that

are blessed with the small,

meat and they’re cleaning up

about 6m into the water column,

gets in the way of the science.

sweet and soft luxury of

the oceans. They’re like the

but above the seafloor to prevent

Seafood sustainability is a

the blue mussel (Mytilus

mate that gets up early after an

bottom-dwellers such as crabs

complex discussion. As land-

galloprovincialis), the likes of

all-night house party and cleans

prizing them open for a snack.

dwellers who barely dip our toes

which are farmed in Spring

your house before you’ve risen

It’s here in the water column

in the deep blue, we have little

Bay, Tasmania, and in the cold,

from your slumber. They’re the

of Boston Bay where the South

else to rely on but our emotions,

nutrient-rich waters of the

magic genies of the deep blue!

Australian blue mussels filter

perceptions, and at times,

Great Southern Ocean that

In Boston Bay, mussel brood

blurred lines of debate.

Of course, there is one seafood that naturally comes to the surface as one of the most sustainable options on the planet — farmed mussels.

In fact, a study by the

harvest time the following year.

Farmed mussels are actually environmentally benign. In fact, their cultivation has a net benefit for the marine environment in which they are produced.

Ecological Society of America flows into Boston Bay, Port

stock the size of a human head

may even be a greener option

Lincoln, South Australia.

sit deep on the ocean floor and

A member of the invertebrate

Once harvested, they’re cleaned, de-byssused and vacuum-packed alive in oxygensaturated seawater as ‘pot ready’ for market.

They’re cheap, versatile, soft and sweet — and greener than

declared eating farmed mussels than veganism.

the water, day in, day out until

Farmed mussels are actually

the grass around a fire hydrant.

But don’t take my word for it.

release their spawn each June.

They’re accredited as a Friend

environmentally benign. In fact,

The spat floats through the

of the Sea and the National

mollusc family, including clams

their cultivation has a net benefit

water column until it can find a

Association for Sustainable

and oysters, they differ to

for the marine environment in

substrate to attach itself to.

Agriculture Australia, too.

more developed molluscs such

which they are produced. Farmed

as the octopus, which is not

mussels do not require feed. As

byssus thread (which we have

sustainable choice, choose

only more mobile, but evolved

filter feeders, their role is to filter

come to refer to as ‘beards’)

farmed South Australian mussels.

significantly, too.

some 20 litres a day of plankton,

have miniscule suckers on the

You know it makes sense! ■

12 | Hospitality

The tiny hairs known as the

If you want to make a

COLUMN // Hamish Watts

The expansion

game

An honest look at growing a restaurant group in Sydney and all that comes with it.

WORDS Hamish Watts LIKE MOST OF you reading this,

down the shareholdings. Having

commit to unnecessarily large

avoiding onerous leases and

I love hospitality. It’s the people,

multiple investors with small

salaries. You need to be a jack

license conditions is priceless —

the pace, the banter, the food,

shares is not only irritating, it can

of all trades and be willing to do

well, almost.

the music, booze and hard graft.

be uncomfortable, complicate

a bit of everything. I spent hours

Every morning I wake up and

the decision-making process and

scraping, painting, hammering

check our nightly reports on my

slow things down. It obviously

and cleaning as we set up our

phone before my pupils have

also makes the rewards that

first venue. Understand when

Have rock-solid procedures and know your numbers

had the chance to adjust to the

much slimmer.

the time is right to take on

If you don’t know how to control

morning light.

‘executive level’ people; they

your stock, manage your COGs

add value, but are expensive

and labour, produce a reliable set

the ‘key’ attributes required to

Have a clear vision and growth strategy

and require management. Keep

of numbers and hit your budgeted

successfully run a hospitality

You need to know where you are

it tight, don’t splash the cash

KPIs, learn about it before you

group and the advice I would

going. Without a road map to

and avoid large repayment

do anything else. The old KISS

give my younger self if I was

where you want to be in the next

plans as they will kill you.

method of keeping it simple with

just starting out. You need to

three, five or 10 years means you

Remember, cash flow is king.

your procedures is critical. Make

love the game and all that goes

are directionless. At the start, we

with it. When you open your first

set ourselves the goal of opening

Understand who you are

to follow and effective. Working

shop, you are chained to it till

five sites in five years. A simple

Culture is easy to maintain at the

in a group environment prior to

death do you part. Jumping in

enough idea to put on paper,

start when you’re super hands-

starting out will certainly help

at the deep-end needs much

but it really unlocked myriad

on, but you should have a clear

with this. In saying that, some of

consideration, no different to a

questions. How do we actually do

understanding of your values

the best practices I have learned

marriage proposition. If you think

this? How the hell are we going

and beliefs along with your ‘why’

over the years have come from

you are ready to launch your own

to fund it? When will we require

from day one. It makes it easy

independent operators.

hospitality group, here’s some

a head office team? And so on.

to recruit the right people, tells

advice, some of which we did

We now review our goals every

your punters what you are about

well, other parts not so much.

12 months and set ourselves

and drives the heart and soul of

Have fun and look after yourself

objectives for the upcoming year.

your business. Understanding

Being in hospo, I’m sure you enjoy

We also revisit our vision for the

your purpose is a critical step if

the good times, socialising, a

following three to five years.

you want to grow and maintain a

tipple or two and eating too

positive culture while expanding.

much. I certainly enjoy my fill. It’s

I was recently asked about

Partner up, but don’t water it down Having a buddy in your corner

them watertight, easy for others

with skin in the game makes

Keep it lean

for bolder decision-making

Ensure debt levels are as low

Pay for good advice

and have fun in your business,

and turbocharges creative

as possible, particularly at the

We learned the hard way that

but it’s also important to keep fit

processes. Like all relationships,

start. Hire-purchase deals and

having the wrong accountants,

and look after your relationships.

it takes a lot of work and

overly generous leasing agents

bookkeepers and lawyers at the

patience, but having the right

are about all that’s available to

start can be costly. Pay for the

the hospitality game, but a few

partner to bounce ideas off and

new operators starting out, but

best advice you can afford and

fundamentals certainly go a long

celebrate the good and not-so-

avoid them as much as you can.

make it a non-negotiable part

way if you plan on getting off the

good times has been a critical

Be humble, buy decent second-

of your setup costs. Structuring

tools every day and expanding.

part of Applejack’s success. But

hand equipment and don’t

the back end of your business

Horses for courses of course. Go

it’s super important not to water

over-invest in your fitouts. Don’t

properly from day one along with

get ’em guys … ■

14 | Hospitality

really important to enjoy yourself

It’s easy to overcomplicate

VG

GF

V

BEST PRACTICE // The good old days

Flashback A look at running a venue in the ’90s. Warning, the below might shock you.

WORDS Ken Burgin

ONCE UPON A time, there were two cafés

and they were no more exciting than today

in your street (not 10), social media didn’t

— remember when junk mail was an issue?

exist and neither did unfair dismissal. People

The only way to see a menu was to visit the

paid cash for their $3 coffee and no one had

restaurant, and if you were out of hours, it

heard of GST. Would you want to go back to

was probably displayed in the window.

the good old days?

A telephone was the lifeline for customer

Chefs often worked six days a week and

bookings, kitchen ordering and every type

millennials weren’t a thing yet. Did this mean

of communication. A second fax line might

more commitment? Maybe, but a wage of

be available, sending orders or printing

$8 per hour wasn’t much motivation and it

onto a roll of shiny paper that faded within

was rare for a wage inspector to appear.

weeks. It was also how the first version of

Rosters were on the wall in the kitchen, and

home delivery sent through orders — Cuisine

if you couldn’t make it, you’d have to phone

Courier arrived in Sydney in the early ’90s,

the restaurant and hope you’d get through.

distributing a menu guide into letterboxes

Liquor licensing was stricter, there was no

and charging 30 per cent commission just like

such thing as responsible service and health

delivery services today.

inspections were as unpredictable as they are now.

In the kitchen, the chef had a team of

If you were ready to handle volume, the leap from cash register to a point of sale would set you back $15,000–20,000, and

apprentices who would work crazy hours

most transactions were cash. Credit cards

and a surly attitude was considered a

usually went through a click-clack paper

badge of honour. Language and raw humour

device, then collated and banked a couple

made it difficult for women in the kitchen

of times a week. A phone call was needed

and harassment and discrimination was

to authorise anything large. Storing large

far from taken seriously. If a staff member

amounts of cash on premises over a weekend

wasn’t working out, they could be out the

was a big security risk, so safes, bars on

door without a reason. We were sewing the

windows and alarm systems were essential.

seeds of decline in the hospitality job market,

Keeping track of your numbers? It was

treating staff as raw material rather than a

probably handled by a family member in a

valuable resource.

big book, or if you were an innovator, using

Marketing was simple, and it was all based

a wonderful new invention called MYOB. But

on print — cheap ads in your local paper

it still meant lots of paper bank statements,

or expensive ones in the big city editions.

invoices in the mail and cheques to write.

Websites, email, SMS or social media?

Pack it all into a big envelope and send to

Nothing to see there, and feedback came

the accountant once a year, hoping that your

from the occasional letter or phone call.

hunch about profitability was accurate.

Everyone hoped a critic would notice them

Feeling the stress? Have a cigarette with

and that everything was working well on that

your coffee at the staff table and read the

fateful day. Or perhaps you scored a listing

paper or a magazine. Let’s hope no one was

in Cheap Eats or the Good Food Guide.

trying to book while you had that long phone

Flyers in letterboxes were another option,

call with your partner! ■

16 | Hospitality

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PROFILE // Cian Fenaughty

18 | Hospitality

When Melbourne-based chef Cian Fenaughty was cooking rice, he was dreaming about making pasta.

PROFILE // Cian Fenaughty

Fenaughty by nature “It’s about nailing the cooking and putting in

WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Calum Fewster

work behind the scenes.”

– Cian Fenaughty

CIAN FENAUGHTY IS just 28 years

Blumenthal-run establishment. “I was there

bucketlist restaurants from Dinner by

much nervous energy,” says Fenaughty. “It

old, but the chef has already worked at Heston Blumenthal in London to Cutler

& Co. and Sunda in Melbourne. Starred,

with 48–52 other chefs and there was so

was a high-volume, consistent restaurant.”

Working at Dinner was certainly a

buzzy restaurants are the pinnacle for most

departure from the pub, and the way the

in being part of a venue that was a hub for

would stay with Fenaughty from that point

chefs, but Fenaughty was more interested the community.

Recently taking on the role of head

chef at Fitzroy North pasta bar Pinotta, Fenaughty talks to Hospitality about

harassing HR to get a trial at Dinner, lessons learned from Andrew McConnell and what

kitchen was run was a revelation that

onwards. “Everything was questioned,

whether it was cooking techniques or the

way you stored things,” he says. “They had an incredible way of instilling systems that

stuck and an attitude of always doing better.”

The experience also encouraged

goes into creating a restaurant for regulars.

Fenaughty to take personal responsibility,

Like most budding chefs, Cian Fenaughty

boundary pushing — personally and

completed his apprenticeship at a pub.

Unlike most chefs, he flew to the UK for a trial at Dinner by Heston in London

shortly after. While Fenaughty had limited

experience in the kitchen (the pub teamed with a stint at Andrew McConnell’s

which sometimes resulted in some serious professionally. “I had some of the hardest services of my life and some of the most rewarding,” he says. “Consistency was

everything and nothing would make it out that wasn’t good enough.”

Cumulus) he had the persistence to get the

After he wrapped up his time in London,

process where you emailed the chef; you

he found himself back in the McConnell

green light. “It wasn’t the usual application were bugging the HR department of a

hotel,” says Fenaughty. “I ended up calling a few times and finally got a trial.”

The chef passed the test, but didn’t have

his foot in the door just yet — he was put on a waiting list. Alas, the trip across the

world paid off when he was offered a job at

Fenaughty returned to Melbourne where fold; this time at Cutler & Co. It was

supposed to be a limited run as there

were plans in the works to move to South Africa to open a restaurant with a Dinner colleague, but “it fell through,” says

Fenaughty. “It all got a bit hard with visas.”

Instead of dealing with the chaos of

the restaurant, which was just five months

launching a restaurant — let alone one in

described as frenetic — or whatever other

down at Cutler and took full advantage of

old at the time. What followed can be

word you’d use to describe working at a

another country — Fenaughty put his head the opportunities that come with working

October 2019 | 19

PROFILE // Cian Fenaughty

for Andrew McConnell. Attending off-site

Fenaughty left Cutler to work with chef

training programs and seminars are a key

Chris Watson at the Luxembourg in St

and Fenaughty says preparing workers for

at Khanh Nguyen’s Sunda Dining. The chef

part of staff development within the group, the next step made the jump from sous

chef to head chef a few years later a much

easier transition. “They were really good at developing people for the role above and

they do off-site training and seminars with people who work in hospitality,” he says.

There were also plenty of on-the-job

opportunities where Fenaughty, then a

sous chef, would cover for a head chef if they were away. Spending time with his

superiors was another invaluable learning

opportunity. “A lot of it is one-on-one with mentors who are very clear on what the restaurant expects of you and the role,” he says. “Sometimes the feedback was

difficult to receive, but the path was set out for you and the development was straightforward. That level of honesty and clarity

is something I use today and I understand how powerful it is to lead by example.”

Kilda for two years before a role came up spent six months at the South East Asian restaurant and says he discovered more

about cooking in that period than he had in

Pork shoulder casarecce

a chef for

is the most

10 years

popular dish

Fenaughty was

The chef estimates

a while. “Learning new ingredients, recipes and techniques was easily my favourite

part,” he says. But Fenaughty’s heart just

wasn’t in it. “After working in a community restaurant like the Luxembourg, I wasn’t

100 per cent set on going back to the city.

Sunda was challenging, but it wasn’t right.

I’d dream of pasta, wake up and write down three dishes and go to work and cook rice.”

“That level of repeat clientele only exists when you create a special place for people to go to.”

– Cian Fenaughty The pasta restaurant of Fenaughty’s dreams already existed in the form of Pinotta.

Owner Heidi Modra was on the lookout for a new head chef to run the eight-year-old

restaurant and Fenaughty had an in through a friend of a friend working at the venue.

The job was his — but turbulent times were en route. “Some of the team left when I

nominated for a

he’s made

Time Out Hot Talent

thousands of plates

award in 2018

of pasta

eight years, especially a neighbourhood

spot crammed full of locals. Fenaughty was mindful of not rocking the boat too much when he started and says his first menu

was similar to what was going on before.

“The menu was pretty much what I wanted to do — a local pasta bar that works

with local producers — so it was already

heading in the direction I wanted to go in.”

A few months down and the menu has

completely changed — bar the tiramisu: “I

can’t take that off,” laughs Fenaughty. “The menu is quite basic, but it’s about nailing

the cooking and putting in work behind the scenes,” he says. Diners are now inhaling

dishes from pappardelle with braised duck, burnt raddichio and pine to fior di latte cappeletti with nettle and spigarello.

The restaurant is also hosting more

started, which is the norm for kitchens,” he

events with guest chefs popping in for

to find a sous chef and hire commis he had

chef Allan Eccles recently stepped into the

says. The dropouts meant Fenaughty had never worked with before.

Building a team from scratch is tough,

but it also provides an opportunity to

start from square one. Like most chefs,

Fenaughty struggled to establish work–life balance in the past and has experienced

the downside of putting the kitchen first.

“I’ve lost friends and partners from work

one-off menus. Cutler & Co. alum and Lesa kitchen for a long Sunday lunch and Chris Watson was in Fenaughty’s domain for a

‘Mexitalian’ barbecue. “I’ve been pushing to have more friends come in and cook,” says Fenaughty. “I think it brings in new

guests and people that follow these chefs throughout their careers.”

and alienated family,” he says. “Losing my

While the menu has come into its own, the

disappoint anyone like that again.”

remain very much the same. Maintaining

partner was a big thing — I don’t want to The chef says controlling the roster at

Pinotta is empowering, and providing his

team with enough time off is a priority. “I

don’t want them to choose between work and loved ones,” says Fenaughty.

There was also the challenge of coming

into a restaurant that’s been around for 20 | Hospitality

Fenaughty has worked as

neighbourhood vibes Pinotta is known for

an accessible image is front and centre for

the restaurant, which prides itself on being a community hub. “Heidi is an incredible

host and regulars turn into friends — it’s an

amazing atmosphere,” says Fenaughty. “That

level of repeat clientele only exists when you create a special place for people to go to.” ■

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DRINKS // Cocktails variations Little Felix

Tweaks of the trade Bartenders are a creative bunch, but is there a limit when it comes to twisting old-time favourites?

WORDS Madeline Woolway PHOTOGRAPHY Nikki To for Little Felix; Gareth Sobey for Bar Margaux

MICHAEL MADRUSAN remembers a

by British bartender Wayne Collins, who

on Friday nights. Blackberry in hand,

vermouth during a stay in the south of

regular who’d come to his bar for a drink the man would try a number of drinks making notes in the memo app so he

could ask for them again, or better yet, discover similar cocktails.

“The awesome thing about cocktails

is the exploration part,” says Madrusan, owner of the Made in the Shade group (The Everleigh, Heartbreaker, Bar

Margaux). “When you find a style of drink you really enjoy, you want to see where you can go with it.”

Such an ethos drives bartenders to

drinks such as the French 75, Sidecar and

France. Although the original ingredients

tight list of eight drinks that are just a step

have been removed, the spirit of the drink remains. And perhaps that’s the key —

Collins wasn’t trying to change the drink, he was attempting to emulate it.

“You need to be able to see the original for it to be a good tweak.”

– Michael Madrusan

experiment with variations, creating

While the team at Sydney’s Little Felix is

entirely new cocktails. But where are

spirits and liqueurs of all origins and kinds

riffs on classics, rather than conjuring the boundaries between old and new? A

Negroni calls for equal parts gin, Campari

and sweet red vermouth — is a drink that throws out two of those ingredients in

favour of Suze and Lillet taking its name

in vain? For his part, Madrusan thinks the

White Negroni is a thoughtful variation on the turn-of-the-century classic.

The contemporary version was created

22 | Hospitality

The team set out to modify well-known

found himself without Campari and sweet

operating under opposite conditions, with

at their fingertips, the same attitude guides their approach to spinning drinks. The

Merivale cocktail bar is dedicated to the art of “gently refreshing” well-known classic

cocktails from the great Parisian bars and hotels of the early 20th century.

“The overall concept was to take those

classics and make them our own,” says Joseph Stephens, venue manager.

Between the Sheets. They ended up with a or two away from their predecessors.

To make sure those steps are in the right direction, bartenders need to be familiar with the recipes they’re manipulating.

“There are many, many classic cocktails,” says Madrusan. “But we could safely say most of them are derived from what we call ‘mother cocktails’.”

Martinis, Manhattans and the Old

Fashioned come to mind, with Madrusan suggesting it could be conducive to

look at things from the perspective of

categories rather than individual drinks.

The aforementioned could be considered families of drinks, along with sours, gimlets, daiquiris and flips — they can all be altered with different

bases and modifiers depending on customer preference.

“You can go on for hours about how

adding one ingredient can give you a

whole different drink altogether,” says

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DRINKS // Cocktails variations

give someone who enjoys bourbon Old

Fashioned a drink with bourbon, banana and cream. “Classic cocktails are never

complicated, so we don’t use more than

four ingredients, tops, in our drinks,” he says. “If you’re trying to come up with

a Tom Collins variation, if you’ve added

three or four extra ingredients, you may

have missed the mark — it’s supposed to be a refreshing simple drink.”

Instead, choose one element to swap out

or add in. It’s a strategy Stephens refers

to as the ‘Mr Potato Head’ approach. “You

should pull out one ingredient and replace

it with another to understand how it works and how it has worked over the past 200 Bar Margaux

Madrusan. “You need to be able to see the

original for it to be a good tweak. You have to trace it back pretty quickly.”

Bartenders should experiment as there’s

“You should pull out one ingredient and replace it with another to understand how it

Everyone behind the bar at Little Felix

works and how it has worked

working with. “They’ve all made and

over the past 200 years.”

is across the origin of the drinks they’re tasted the drinks across their careers,” says Stephens. “During training, we explain

how we came to the variations and the thought processes behind them.”

So what was involved in the thought

processes? “We looked at the most original recipe we could find for each drink,” says

Stephens. “We started with classic cocktail books and then we tasted those. In 1920s

Paris, they liked their drinks a lot sweeter than we do now, so we had to balance them for our modern palate.”

Readjusting the balance was step one;

finding a substitute or modifier to create a

cocktail unique to Little Felix was step two.

Take the Paris Meridian Village, for

example. One of three spins on the

classic French 75, which features gin,

Champagne, lemon and sugar, the Paris Meridian Village pulls back the sugar

and adds Farigoule, a Provençal liqueur produced with wild thyme.

Ultimately, it comes down to customer

experience. To illustrate the point, here’s a suggestion from Madrusan: don’t 24 | Hospitality

years,” he says.

– Joseph Stephens

never one route to any destination: “But

you need to understand why some recipes are two parts, one part and half a part,” says Stephens. “You can start to create balance from these building blocks.”

With the right approach, a lot of training

and a little luck, you might find the next contemporary classic. ■

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FEATURE // Dog-friendly venue

Puppy love It’s 2019 and people take their furry pals everywhere, so what are you doing to cater to man’s best friend?

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

IN A WORLD where dogs are considered family members, it’s only fair they enjoy the same creature comforts we do.

about what it takes to get your premises dog-ready.

Whether it’s a Sunday session at the pub

Australia is an animal-loving nation, with

become the companion of choice for many.

than 24 million pets in our country alone.

or a morning coffee at a café, dogs have But there are a few points to consider

before you welcome pooches into your

venue. Hospitality talks to The Vic on the Park General Manager Cameron Hann

and Old Man Drew Owner Dorothy Leech 26 | Hospitality

the RSPCA estimating there are more

Dog-loving people = a major business

opportunity. Not just from the perspective

of customers choosing your venue because they can bring their dog, but from a dollar perspective. Hello, dog menus.

But there are a few rules to get straight

Research shows dogs are the most popular,

before we dive into dog territory; the first

pooch, equating to 20 dogs per

go. In the Safe Food Australia Guide under

with 38 per cent of households owning a 100 people.

It doesn’t take a genius to do the math.

revolves around where dogs can and cannot Standard 3.2.2 — Food Safety Practices and General Requirements, only certain animals

square metres,” says Leech. Thanks to

any area used by customers such as dining

section off areas and create spaces for dog

assistance animals, who must be allowed in and drinking spaces.

Live animals (other than seafood, fish or

shellfish) are not permitted in areas where food is handled. However, pet dogs ‘may’ be allowed in outdoor dining areas that

the size of the garden, the café is able to

owners and customers who would rather steer clear of pets. The garden also has a

separate side entrance, which means dog owners don’t need to walk through the indoor space.

Leech says word has spread fast and the

are not enclosed at the discretion of the

café is attracting more and more customers

maintain high standards of food safety

were included in an article about dog-

business owner. Of course, venues must and hygiene to ensure animals do not contaminate food.

Now the housekeeping is out of the way, it’s time to talk about the benefits of

allowing dogs in your venue — just ask

Dorothy Leech from Old Man Drew, a café

since it opened in November last year. “We friendly cafés and people are starting to

find us because of the dogs,” she says. It’s not hard to see why Old Man Drew is an

attraction for customers. The café has rugs and dog beds throughout the garden and even a water station for pups.

Cameron Hann says The Vic has

located in Ascot Vale, Melbourne. Leech is

been dog-friendly for as long as he can

who she says was the motivation behind

Marrickville venue in 2017, the previous

the proud owner of Frankie, a Chihuahua, making the café dog-friendly. “From day one, it was our plan,” she says. “We’ve

always had dogs and it’s been hard to find somewhere comfortable to go.”

Old Man Drew is a unique property

full of nooks, which isn’t a surprise given its past life as a used trucks store run by Leech’s grandfather. While the interior encompasses a series of rooms, the

outdoor space is sprawling, “at least 200

remember. When Merivale acquired the

licencees’ pension for pooches remained.

Hann says it’s a no-brainer for a pub in Sydney’s Inner West to welcome dogs,

and says the allowance facilitates a family atmosphere. “Who doesn’t like dogs?”

he says. “You want the local pub to be a reflection of the community, and if you

can bring your dog, it feels like your whole family is there.”

Like Old Man Drew, The Vic has a large

“99 per cent of owners are responsible, aware and react accordingly.

We have more issues with people than dogs.”

– Cameron Hann caption

October 2019 | 27

FEATURE // Dog-friendly venues

are allowed in food premises such as

FEATURE // Dog-friendly venue

outdoor space with a deck area and a

on-site and a chef undertaking a degree

find dogs and their owners. “Some people

the requirements.

basketball court which is where you’ll

come here every day with their dogs for a

The Vic host Santa Paws photos during

Dogs can munch

Christmas, with

on peanut butter

donations going to

pupcakes at

Maggie’s Rescue

Old Man Drew

must wash their hands after they have

dogs to come and go.”

been sent out over the café’s 11-month

Hann. “There’s enough space for lots of

Venue owners know dogs aren’t allowed which means educating customers is on

you. Most dog-friendly venues are easy-

Follow

has a dedicated

#dogsofthevic on

milk frother for

Instagram

puppuccinos

going when it comes to having dogs on the property, but there are some basic rules

that are important to communicate. “We

have a sign in our window which says dogs

life. The garden area has a separate water station, which means workers don’t have to go into the bathroom to wash their

hands. “There are two water stations with

hot water, soap, towels and hand sanitiser,” says Leech. There’s also a sign in the

locker room area which encourages staff to regularly wash their hands.

Same goes at The Vic. “Staff mostly

enjoy the dogs as much as the customers,

around the side — it’s only a small number

says Hann.

who tie their dog outside and ask if they

but they have to keep their hands washed,”

can bring the dog through.”

We all know there are plenty of dog

to be muzzled and says most owners are

the number of products on the market.

Old Man Drew doesn’t require dogs

aware of their dog’s behaviour. “They

know their animal and are conscious,” says Leech. “There’s only been one dog who

was disturbed, but once we put him in the veggie garden, he calmed down.”

Dogs are required to be on a leash at

The Vic which Hann says is important to

help create a stress-free environment for everyone. “It’s not fair for some to be on

the leash and others aren’t. Not everyone

loves dogs, so people need to be respectful.

We have a couple of signs that say dogs have to be on leashes and with their

fanatics out there; just take a look at

And the types of people who will buy a customised collar for their pup will

most likely splash out on some doggy treats at your venue. The Vic sources

organic dog treats from West Juliett café down the road, but they don’t charge.

“If people want a snack for their pooch, we will happily hand them out,” says

Hann. However, the pub is working on

some upcoming community events in the carpark and a doggy fashion show is a definite potential.

Old Man Drew are set to expand their

owners at all times.”

dog treats offering from complimentary dog

break out, especially when there are a lot

menu. “Some people want to buy them

Hann says it’s inevitable scuffles will

of dogs around, but stresses “99 per cent

of owners are responsible, aware and react accordingly. We have more issues with people than dogs.”

There’s also the issue of cleaning up

any accidents. Leech says they are a rare

occurrence, but the café is well equipped with a pressure washer. The Vic also

provides the necessary tools for owners to clean up any messes.

Most people can’t hold themselves

back when a cute puppy arrives, so it’s inevitable staff will have some form of

contact with dogs during a shift. Old Man Drew have a health and safety officer

28 | Hospitality

touched dogs and reminder emails have

are welcome but to take them around the

side gate,” says Leech. “Most people come

“We’re planning on putting a dog food bar in the garden and we will do plates of meat and rice that are attached to our menu.”

– Dorothy Leech

During induction, staff are told they

meal or to come and play basketball,” says

indoors, but some consumers are unaware,

Old Man Drew

in animals, so the team are well aware of

biscuits and pupcakes to a more substantial because they love them so much, so we’ve

been considering a dog menu, which I think we will do for summer,” says Leech. “We’re planning on putting a dog food bar in the

garden and we will do plates of meat and rice that are attached to our menu. They

won’t be overly expensive, just something for them to eat while everyone else is enjoying a coffee and the sun.”

The consensus is in — dogs are good for business. According to Leech and Hann, dogs can help create an inclusive venue that encourages good vibes all round.

You’d be barking mad not to be dogfriendly. ■

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October 2019 | 29

FEATURE // Staging

Centre stage Staging presents an opportunity for learning — but a thoughtful and considered approach is required if the experience is to be positive.

WORDS Madeline Woolway

Mugaritz. Photography by Jose Luis Lopez de Zubiria

IN THE EARLY ’90s, fresh out of his

Hospitality speaks to three chefs and a

It was Harris Plane who introduced

apprenticeship at Hermann Schneider’s

restaurant manager about what staging

the concept of a stage to Adey; it wasn’t

three years in the kitchen of Michel Roux’s

hospitality talent can make the most of it

professionals then (and perhaps remains

Two Faces restaurant, Luke Mangan spent three Michelin-star London restaurant,

the Waterside Inn. Now one of Australia’s

looks like in 2019 and how young

without succumbing to exploitation.

most successful chefs, Mangan says the

Although each staged in different venues,

did a Melbourne boy get on the roster at

different points in their careers, every stint

experience was career-defining. So how

an internationally acclaimed kitchen full of French chefs? He sent a letter, received a

for different lengths of time and at started with outreach.

Brooke Adey, venue manager at the

return note detailing the two-year waitlist for

recently opened Coogee Wine Room

his case: a month-long, unpaid stage.

Adelaide when she attended a food and

positions, called Roux directly and pleaded Workplaces are highly regulated these

days, which means working for free to pay your dues is no longer a legitimate way

to land an auspicious gig — at least not

legally. But staging isn’t a thing of the past — many chefs, and an increasing number

of front-of-house professionals, consider the time-honoured tradition a valuable way to

gain experience and broaden their horizons.

30 | Hospitality

in Sydney, was living and working in

wine seminar where Banjo Harris Plane, then venue manager and sommelier at

Attica, was speaking. “The way he spoke

common in the parlance of front-of-house the case, she adds). After some back and

forth, Adey undertook a stage at Attica for two-and-a-half weeks in July 2014. At the time, Adey had eight years experience at

Chianti in Adelaide, having started in the industry at the age of 17. “I was looking

for what I wanted to do next and where I wanted to go, having only worked in one venue,” says Adey. While it remains the

only place Adey has staged to this day, she’s since gone on to run the floor in a number of respected Sydney establishments.

Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana

about Attica and what they were trying

is the lone restaurant on Mitch Orr’s list

remember thinking he sounded like the

two-time world no.1 restaurant in 2010

to do was really inspiring,” she says. “I kind of person I wanted to spend time

with, so I reached out on the day and said I was interested in work experience.”

of stages. The chef found himself at the after taking out the Josephine Pignolet

Young Chef Award in the same year. Back then, Orr says, you needed to attend one

FEATURE // Staging

Suspension squid silk, Mugaritz.

Mitch Orr

If you can’t afford it …

Mitch Orr thinks travelling, eating and experiencing other cultures is as important as staging — you can learn a lot just from eating at a restaurant.

of Italy’s cooking schools to stage in a

& Purchese Sweet Studio, 10 months at

writers Pat Nourse and Joanna Savill, he

recently, three months at Dan Barber’s

restaurant. With some help from food

managed to circumvent the condition,

possibly making him the first chef to do so Kyle Millar

at Francescana, eventually lining up the dates with Bottura’s personal assistant.

“At the time I was of the opinion that

Italian food in Sydney was in a lull,” says

Spanish juggernaut Mugaritz and, most New York establishment Blue Hill at

Stone Barns as the staging opportunities

that facilitated her transition. The choice of restaurants were mostly the result of “accidental discovery” she says.

Long fascinated by the creativity behind

Orr of his decision to work in Bottura’s

Burch & Purchese’s desserts, Millar took

break out of the traditional chains I saw it

after meeting Darren Purchese while

kitchen. “I wanted to push it forward and being held in. I saw the love and passion for it in the Italian chefs I worked for in

Sydney. Not being Italian, I also thought

there was more room to bend and maybe even break the rules. I wanted to do this

in a fine dining setting because that’s what was respected and taken seriously at the time in Sydney dining. Francescana was

seen as being the epitome of pushing the boundaries of Italian cuisine.”

Unlike Mangan, Adey and Orr, staging

was Kyle Millar’s introduction to the

industry. The MasterChef Australia alum is one of the blockbuster show’s cohort

who has managed to parlay the experience into a kitchen career. Millar counts three months at Melbourne patisserie Burch

the opportunity to apply for a stage

filming MasterChef. Through Purchese’s connections, she was linked up with

chefs working in the R&D department at Mugaritz. “I was headed over to Europe

on holiday and was going to pop into the restaurant for a few weeks,” recounts

Millar. “The first day I fell in love with the place — working garden; local

farmers, fisherman and hunters bringing fresh produce daily, and, to top it off,

the passion for Spanish gastronomy and

innovation really sang to me.” She missed

the cut off for intern applications that year, but submitted the required paperwork and returned the following season.

Millar went on to work at Attica,

where she was tasked with looking after October 2019 | 31

FEATURE // Staging

the garden and organising the logistics around receiving and planting seeds.

Coincidentally, Barber had just launched

Row 7 Seed Company, and the Melbourne restaurant was on the list of international kitchens to get their hands on some of

the bounty. “The more I learned about the seeds, the more I became interested in

Blue Hill and its philosophy,” says Millar.

Millar secured the Josephine Pignolet

Young Chef of the Year Award in 2018

and the timing coincided with a staging opportunity at Blue Hill.

Mugaritz Lucy Allon and Luke Mangan

Yes, all three, as well as Mangan, staged at

experience. Staging is about learning and

are recognised as leaders of the culinary

be to get a name on your resume.”

highly lauded venues alongside chefs who

that should always be your aim; it shouldn’t

world. But there’s a more important

The experience of staging is no

commonality — the choice of venue was

doubt quite different for front-of-house

in the ethos behind a venue’s reputation

common, according to Adey, who suspects

driven not by accolades, but by an interest

professionals. It’s historically been less

for innovation.

her request took Harris Plane by surprise.

It’s an attitude Mangan considers

“It certainly wasn’t common when I was

necessary for a successful stage and one

[at Attica],” she says. However, her advice

he communicates to the winners of the

strikes a similar chord to that of the chefs

Appetite for Excellence Young Chef & Young Waiter awards when they decide where

— it’s not about resume building as much

to stage. The best choice depends on the

On timing and length

Bianca Johnston was originally eyeing off

Adey recommends two to four weeks for

Mugaritz was put on the board. “Chez

Millar says three months is the optimum

individual: this year’s Young Chef winner

California restaurant Chez Panisse before

Panisse really suits her style, but we’re not

sure where she’s headed yet,” says Mangan.

“Wherever she wants to go, we’ll support her and tell her what to look out for.”

Mugaritz is a popular choice

— something it’s come under fire for, with

front of house staff.

time for chefs.

There’s never a perfect time to stage, there’s always something new to learn.

Mangan says timing is a matter of what you want to gain and can afford.

accusations it, along with a number of

the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, can only

perform at such a high level on the back of labour from unpaid internships. Although Millar attaches significance to each of

her stints at top 50 restaurants, including Mugaritz, she cautions against choosing

one for a stage based on its position on a

as it is about expanding your horizons.

“Look at it as an opportunity to step out of your comfort zone,” says Adey. “Work in

places unlike where you’re working now and where you’ve worked previously.”

Once you’re in, what can you expect?

Adey spent her first week at Attica as a food runner and the second working a

section with the assistant manager. Across her staging experience, Millar says tasks ranged “from picking herbs and sorting

out tiny vegetables to breaking down and Brooke Adey Photography by Steven Woodburn

cooking large yellow fin and txuleta [a

Basque steak pronounced choo-letah]”. Orr spent most of his time in the Francescana

prep kitchen with sous chef Yoji Tokuyoshi, who now owns Ristorante Tokuyoshi in Milan, doing basic tasks.

“You do the basic stuff,” agrees Mangan.

list. “It’s great to say you’ve staged in a top

“But that’s what you have to expect. I think

with your idea of cooking or your skill

seeing what goes on. It can be a daunting

50 restaurant, but if it doesn’t resonate

set, and the only reason is because of its

accolades or prizes, you should consider if it’s the right place for you,” says Millar.

Orr agrees: “If you want to do a stage,

I’d advise staying away from the big

names where you aren’t going to get much 32 | Hospitality

it’s more about watching, listening and

process; you sort of just rock up to a new kitchen — with a different language in

some places — and it’s all about keeping your head down. Ask questions when

you need to and try to suck out as much

information as you can in a short period.”

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FEATURE // Staging

which was rare at the time. I feel like I’ve carried that feeling into my restaurants.”

While picking herbs and breaking down

fish are often regarded as remedial jobs,

Millar was grateful for insight into day-today operations. “From those experiences, I learned to appreciate every job that

needs to get done in the kitchen,” she says.

“Picking herbs might seem mundane, but

it put in perspective that every little job is

a link in a large chain that helps a kitchen and restaurant run smoothly.”

It made sense for Millar to learn this

way. “I didn’t go to cooking school or

do an apprenticeship, but I learnt a lot

by staging and having great mentors at these restaurants.”

A stage can also help young

professionals develop a cooking

philosophy. “Being located on a farm,

Mugaritz

Adey says her time at Attica was

incredible, even if it meant taking a ‘step back’ in terms of responsibility. “My first

couple of shifts I ran food to the table,” she says. “I think it’s one of the most important

Blue Hill at Stone Barns really opened my eyes to sustainable farming practices and

consider the impact chefs have on how the general public eats and essentially what farmers grow,” says Millar.

Already familiar with many modern

Programs that offer

roles in a restaurant. You get to see the

Italian techniques and used to accessing

funding and support

ask questions about how they’re plating

appreciative of the chance to see how

for stages Josephine Pignolet Young Chef Award Hostplus Scholarship Appetite for Excellence Brett Graham Scholarship

food and how the kitchen works; you can and you get to see the whole process

rather than just the finished product when it hits the table.”

Combined with her time working a

section, Adey walked away from the

experience with an understanding of

dishes were developed. “It was more about

the story each dish told,” he says. “I learned how to see a dish’s evolution, the journey it took from conception to plate and that inspiration can come from anywhere.”

On the other hand, it can be just as

Attica’s systems which ensured the plating

valuable discovering what you don’t want.

called away. While the processes can’t be

fine dining environment, for example. “I

of each course is perfectly timed and

replicated in all settings, the importance of teamwork when it comes to nailing service

was driven home. “The way back and front of house work together means they’re able to deliver the product in the way that they do,” says Adey.

At Osteria Francescana, it was team

cohesion that stood out to Orr as well.

Orr realised he didn’t want to work in a wanted to have fun, I wanted work–life

balance, I wanted to be loose and casual,” he says. “Showing me what I didn’t want

to do was the most important thing I took

from my stage. I don’t think Duke or ACME would have been the special places they were without doing that stage.”

That means it’s all worth it, right? Orr

Bottura didn’t take kindly to the chef’s lack

has the last word: “Staging is a tricky one.

less-than-friendly relationship between the

when done right, it provides experience

of Italian language skills, which led to a

pair, but Orr was nonetheless impressed with the culture. “The staff all lived,

worked and hung out together, feeling like a family,” he recounts. “There was no beef

between front of house and back of house, 34 | Hospitality

high-quality Australian produce, Orr was

Is it exploitative? I think it can be. But

you couldn’t otherwise get. It can teach

you a lot about your abilities and inform

the path your career takes. Learning about yourself and the kind of environment you

want to work in is extremely important.” ■

FEATURE // Festivals

36 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Festivals

Come together Events are a ubiquitous part of the hospitality industry, with food now likely to be the focus of most festivals.

WORDS Madeline Woolway

FESTIVAL IS THE word. Whether attached to

all of the events were in major cities,” says Pike.

good times — for festivalgoers, at least. But

and invite foodies to engage with them in a

film, writers, music or food, it’s indicative of

for the businesses who participate, it requires

forethought and skilled execution to pull off a

really beautiful place.”

As a global business, they could have launched

successful appearance.

anywhere — Pike says the team looked at places

organiser, a restaurateur and the operators of

Margaret River was chosen for its combination of

Hospitality speaks to a culinary festival

an independent brewery to get the lowdown on what makes large-scale events worth the effort.

The Organiser Hannah Pike has been pioneering food festivals across the globe for more than 10 years. The

managing director of IMG Culinary (the food-

focused arm of IMG Talent) heads up the team

that brings the various Taste festivals and Western Australia Gourmet Escape to life each year.

Multiple cities around the world have been

hosting Taste festivals since the first launched

such as Cape Town and the Napa Valley — but coastline and vineyards.

The remoteness is a major drawcard and a

major logistical hurdle. The high-profile chefs and wine talent IMG Culinary work with are

notoriously busy, and for those travelling from Europe, America, Africa and South America,

attending means taking the best part of a week out of the kitchen. “That’s also the allure of it,” says Pike. “The phone reception can be pretty bad and these chefs are never exposed to this sort of thing; they’re always connected.”

In place of digital connectivity is a meeting

in London in 2004, with Sydney and Melbourne

of the minds, with participants forming bonds

The latter, which rebranded from Margaret

city setting where they can all go off and dine

now home to their own ‘Taste of’ events.

River Gourmet Escape this year, started in 2012 with the aim of spotlighting what was then a relatively undiscovered and remote region.

In her time, Pike has seen the food festival

scene explode and evolve in equal measure,

learning how to execute different styles of events along the way. Gourmet Escape, which is set

to be held over 10 days from 8–17 November

across the regions of Margaret River, Perth and

Swan Valley, is a unique beast. “We were running a business working with the best chefs from

cities around the world, and generally speaking, Gourmet Escape

“We came up with the idea to take those people

that go beyond the festival. “There’s not that

separately; they’re living together, basically, in a really beautiful lodge,” says Pike.

The IMG Culinary team organises ‘downtime’

activities to keep talent entertained, showcases what the region has to offer and facilitates

networking. Think foraging, whale watching

and jet skiing. Everything is taken care of from travel and accommodation to personal contact and drivers.

The result is a waitlist of chefs and hospitality

professionals vying for a place on the line-up,

which brings its own set of challenges. “It’s hard October 2019 | 37

FEATURE // Festivals because you have to say no, but you still

festivals of the future? “I think there’s a

The Restaurateur

with that person,” says Pike. “We basically

says Pike. “Events solely about cheese,

Palisa Anderson takes time out of a busy

want to [have] a really great relationship have this huge matrix of everyone who

has attended before and everyone who we would like to attend.”

From the matrix, hospitality

professionals are chosen based on how they fit into the year’s philosophy and whether they have something new on

the cards, such as a book or a project.

Pike lists Josh Niland as the perfect example. Not only has the chef just

launched his first book, The Whole Fish Cookbook, he’s also leading the way when it comes to sustainability. The

combination makes him the right fit for the World Gourmet Symposium.

A new addition to this year’s expanded

program, the symposium is devised to

put behind-the-scenes discussions on a

public forum. At past events, guests were

trend towards more niche subject matter,”

Community is the reason restaurateur

coffee, tea, Pinot — it could be anything.

schedule running family businesses Chat

The other thing people want is a unique

experience: a collaboration, a one-off —

something they can’t get all the time. But

it’s not possible without time and money.”

Things are almost too good to be true at

the moment, according to Pike. “There are

It took three years to lock in Nigella Lawson’s appearance.

Planning for Gourmet Escape 2020 began at the start of 2019.

Gourmet Escape is made up of 50-plus events over 10 days across three regions.

The event attracts 40 international, 30

enjoying dinners cooked by chefs like

interstate and 20–30 local chefs.

ingredients. “There were natural after-

huge amounts of corporate investment and

were really important conversations that

of a restaurant on a beach in the middle

Peter Gilmore, who were discovering new hours discussions happening and a lot

needed to be had,” says Pike. Along with a desire to attract more business travellers,

the culture of knowledge sharing made the

sponsorship… to [put] the infrastructure

of nowhere doesn’t make sense unless you have 70 other things with it.”

So will the seemingly saturated market

Thai and Boon Cafe in Sydney as well as Boon Luck Farm near Byron Bay to

participate in a multitude of festivals. “I think we did Melbourne Food & Wine

Festival first,” says Anderson. “Then we

started doing more, [now]... gosh, what haven’t we done?”

Anderson pins her businesses’ prolificacy

at food festivals around the country on a family attitude. “My Mum’s tradition

is basically to say yes to everything and

then deal with the consequences later —

provided they gel with our ethos and what we’re doing,” she says.

Beyond that, there are two rules —

the endeavour needs to be profitable

or good for the community. That’s why the team participates in events held

by the Tourism Authority of Thailand.

“We do it because it’s a good way to be

part of the community,” says Anderson.

“Carriageworks’ Night Markets are great, too because we get to hang out with our

colleagues from other restaurants and see what they’re doing.”

Food-oriented events such as those held

decision to start a trade forum easy.

bottom out any time soon? Pike thinks

at Carriageworks, as well as the Taste

are evolving. ‘Talks’ are becoming as

dissolution, with consumers increasingly

venues to reach out to new customers. “It’s

It’s an indicator of the way food festivals

popular as sampling a range of different

dishes. What else can we expect from food 38 | Hospitality

it’ll be a matter of evolution rather than

interested in the community provided by festival-style events.

and Good Food Month programs, allow

good for diners who’ve never eaten with

us to get a little taster,” says Anderson. “I

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FEATURE // Festivals

At their peak, Young Henrys participated in eight events a week.

Costs can start low for a small festival, with Young Henrys just providing stock.

Young Henrys held their first festival in 2014, two years after opening.

Hidden costs can include transport for staff, accommodation and investment in collateral marketing.

Gourmet Escape

guess that’s what a lot of these festivals

attract high costs, Anderson concedes. She

remembers Hampton. “We were a two-

like the Restaurant Leaders Summit [now

levels of government in the future, so the

we can do this’.”

are about, even the symposium-style ones Hospitality Leaders Summit] or the World Gourmet Symposium; they’re a gateway.”

Anderson is a regular on the ‘talks’ circuit,

hopes there’ll be more support from all benefits can extend further afield.

The Brewers

taking to the stage for discussions about

Festivals are so important to Young Henrys’

While taking part requires time and

distiller created a mid-strength beer to

the restaurant industry as well as farming. stretching resources on Anderson’s behalf, there’s usually a return on investment in

knowledge capital. “Getting to speak and

listen to other people talk about what they do can help you on your own journey,”

she says. “It keeps you in touch with the

industry and connects you with people from different facets of the business.”

To this end, Anderson will take to the

stage with Alla Wolf-Tasker as part of

brand DNA, the Newtown brewer and

meet New South Wales legislation. The

State government made it apparent that

most first-year music festivals would only get a mid-strength license, so The Stayer was born. True to its name, the beer has embedded itself in Young Henrys’ roster of regular brews, just like festivals have

embedded themselves in the company’s brand strategy.

Before they had the option of partnering

year-old business, but we thought, ‘Hey,

So, the first Small World festival was a

success. The following year, they decided

to take another crack. Taking on feedback from attendees at the 2014 festival, they decided to go bigger and better, but

landed themselves in a financial pickle.

“People wanted comfortable areas,” says

McMahon. “So we had this big, beautiful,

natural amphitheatre in Sydney Park. But

people were too relaxed, no one was going to the f***ing bar.”

They hit so many hurdles and money

was lost. “It took a lot out of our budget,” says Hampton. “It made us realise we

had to focus on what we wanted our core

Gourmet Escape’s Consuming Conversations

with the festivals that attract such

industry can educate consumers about food

and Richard Adamson and brewer Dan

festival, McMahon reveals the amount

around talking about how much great

partner with a festival. It’s a worthwhile

program. The duo will discuss how the production and farming.

But Anderson is concerned these events

are preaching to the converted ... “[Food] really does cross a lot of boundaries and overlaps with many other festivals that now have food components, which is

regulations, founders Oscar McMahon

Hampton had an idea. “We were sitting food, booze and music comes out of the

Inner West [in Sydney] and we went, ‘Let’s put on a festival’,” says McMahon.

Together with local businesses

fantastic, but we’re often talking to the

including Porteño, Mary’s, Bloodwood and

air of exclusivity that’s become attached

street in Marrickville in 2014, drove in a

same people,” she says. The problem is the to many festivals, be they food-themed or arts-based. “It just means limited people are able to join in,” says Anderson.

Festivals are major productions that

40 | Hospitality

Cornersmith, the team closed off a small

business to be.”

Five and a half years after the second

lost is less than they would pay now to cost for Young Henrys on a number of

counts. “It’s hard to really pinpoint one

thing; you very rarely do something and see an immediate spike in sales,” says

Hampton. “But we’ve grown consistently for seven and a half years.”

According to McMahon and Hampton,

stage truck and threw a party that featured

festivals of all stripes, from food and wine

people — standing room only — but, oh

brand-building exercises. “Young Henrys is a

a line-up of local bands. “It was only 2000 my God, we moved through some booze,”

to music and arts, have been significant

company that’s connected to the hospitality

learned to ask more questions and get

peers from other parts of the industry. The

were able to implement the process when

appreciate producers and makers and our person who goes to a wine festival or a

music festival is someone willing to spend money on a cultural event — they’re our

people. They’re probably going to be open

to trying our beer and would appreciate our company ethics and values.”

Early on, there were limits to how many

as involved as possible,” he says. They preparing for Download Festival. “We

thought, if it’s priced at $10 a tinnie [for

mid-strength] compared to Coopers being priced at $6 last year, for example, we’ll

cop it,” says Hampton. Accordingly, prices were set at $8 — a result that put Young Henrys at ease.

The easy conversation is emblematic of

festivals fit with the Young Henrys brand.

a wider trend toward more collaborative

for an event if people couldn’t buy their

and participating businesses. “We’re moving

It wouldn’t make sense to lay down money beer locally the next day. Only once they were in pubs and bottle shops in the

surrounding area would an opportunity be

considered. Now, with a national presence,

the company looks for regions they want to see growth in and targets festivals in these

relationships between festival organisers into a time where festival organisers are

really engaged,” says McMahon. “When we say we know the sweet spot for how our

beers should be priced, they actually listen and take it on board.”

When it comes down to it, the

locations. “If you partner with the right

investment is worth every penny for

their communications and they present

agree the brand has grown quickly thanks

one, they treat your brand respectfully in your beer in a nice setting,” say McMahon.

“It’s a really good way for people to interact with your product.”

For Young Henrys, pricing is a crucial

sticking point and among the key

stipulations they negotiate early in the

process. Hampton recounts an experience with a steep price point that saw the

brewer cop flack from festivalgoers. “We’ve

FEATURE // Festivals

industry, obviously,” says McMahon. “We

Young Henrys. McMahon and Hampton

to the momentum of festivals. “I think one of the best ways to get people to drink

your beer is what you call ‘beer in hand’

experiences, and festivals are a good way to get in front of that many people in one hit,” says McMahon.

One last piece of advice: find the right

festival to speak to ‘your people’ and everyone wins. ■

October 2019 | 41

FEATURE // Burgers

Boom or bust?

Many have predicted the demise of the burger craze, but with high margins, quick turnaround and variety aplenty, operators can still profit.

WORDS Madeline Woolway CHUR BURGER HAS departed Sydney

enough to weather the storm. “We swing

concept Burger Project recently shut up

absolutely love them. I just don’t think

and Rockpool Dining Group’s fast casual shop in Brisbane. Both are regarded as

a lot of burgers,” he says. “Customers

market without alienating diners who come for a classic counter meal?

you’ll see new players.”

Luke Brabin has been working to

have linked their closures to the death

of a fixture, there’ll always be space on

Hotel in South Australia for the best part of

certainly subsided, the humble burger

diners will continue to expect them. The

stalwarts of the burger scene, and some of the burger. But while the craze has

remains a menu staple we’ll most likely see continue on.

Group Executive Chef at 4 Pines Brewing

Company Ed Sargent suspects there’ll be

fewer restaurants solely focused on burgers in the years to come, but says institutions

such as 4 Pines and Mary’s are established 42 | Hospitality

Even if specialty concepts become less

menus for a burger or two. More than that, boom has had a lasting effect on menus, according to Sargent. Wacky inventions aside, it revealed the potential burgers

hold. “They can be more varied; they can be more interesting,” Sargent says.

The question is, how can venues make

their burgers stand out in a crowded

differentiate the Wagyu burger at Feathers

five years. The efforts paid off for the head

chef earlier this year, when it was awarded best burger in the state by the Australian Hotels Association South Australia.

Already popular, it now flies out

the door. Asked why the burger is

such a winner, Brabin says the answer is simple. High-quality ingredients,

including the Wagyu patty and a bun that

4 Pines

FEATURE // Burgers

combines brioche with white bread, are

It’s not all looks and no substance

complemented by chimichurri and crispy

though. Sargent has worked on the

America,” says Brabin. “My chimichurri

working with meat suppliers.

potato. “It takes inspiration from South

sauce is what really sets it apart from the

original recipe, improving its quality by 4 Pines has since opened four more

average burger.”

venues in New South Wales — Public Bar

developing the right patty, ensuring it has

and Surry Hills and Truck Bar in Brookvale.

Brabin has also taken his time

the right fat to protein ratio for maximum moisture. “Without a doubt, it’s our best seller,” says Brabin.

The Wagyu burger is one of four on the

menu, with the chicken and vegetarian

burgers other popular options. While it’s not typically a menu section that excites Brabin, he concedes burgers are a must, which

means it’s worth the effort to innovate.

Given 4 Pines operates multiple burgerheavy venues, it’s no surprise Sargent

is energised by the opportunity to mix things up.

The ‘mega burger’ has been on the

in Newport, Beer & Burger Bar in Manly Each location is beholden to different

demographics and so are the burgers.

“We need to be more diverse,”

says Sargent. “Consumers are really

knowledgeable about food now, so it’s

nice to experiment a little bit and try to

get some exciting flavours going because people have a real appetite for it.”

Like Brabin, Sargent finds inspiration

abroad. “We’re always looking at trends and different influences from other

countries,” Sargent says. “Then we look at what will work in a burger, because some things don’t.”

While foreign shores might hold

menu since the brewery opened its first

inspiration, there’s no need to look

Manly, 11 years ago. Despite the name, it’s

cheeseburger at 4 Pines Public Bar in

venue, the 4 Pines Brew Pub in Sydney’s

relatively tame with a double patty, salad

and special sauce. “When it comes out, it’s got visual appeal,” says Sargent. “People point at it and then order it.”

4 Pines Photo credit: Steven Woodburn

44 | Hospitality

far for quality produce. The Newport

Newport has bacon bourbon sauce made

with local ingredients. “It has a very strong Canadian feel to it, but you get great

smallgoods from Australia,” says Sargent.

“Some people are guilty of not paying much attention to burgers. They think people will love it if they just make it really big and throw something deep-fried in.”

– Ed Sargent

TM

FEATURE // Burgers

Burgers provide ample scope for

has become an integral part of the

Sargent. “Protein, fresh produce, starch —

attract the attention of diners, it offers a

burgers is that there’s a lot going on,” says Feathers Hotel

Chicken burgers

offer a house-

are some one of

made vegan

the most popular

option

at 4 Pines

there’s sweet, savoury, salty, umami and sour [flavour notes].”

Not everything works, but often you’ll

find a good combination. Take the pork

belly burger at 4 Pines Surry Hills. “We slow cook the belly for 24 hours, press it and

poach it in an Asian stock,” says Sargent.

Nailing a good burger is a combination

Feathers’ Wagyu

Sargent uses

burger was named

cornflakes to

best in South

up the crunch

Australia

factor

of innovation teamed with old-fashioned

technique. Bending, not breaking, the rules is what helps chefs steer clear of disaster.

“When it goes wrong, you can’t distinguish the flavours,” says Sargent. “There has to be contrast.”

Basically, treat a burger like you

chance for the team to test out 64 different concepts throughout the year. That’s a

decent sample size for trend forecasting

and a mammoth effort when it comes to

piloting new burgers, some of which could go on to become fixed menu items.

The general consensus is most diners

are after restaurant-quality food crafted by a chef. This might mean coating chicken in a Japanese crumb, as Brabin does at

Feathers Hotel, or using cornflakes; the

strategy employed by Sargent to add extra crunch and take the all-important textural contrast up a notch.

Burgers were enshrined on pub

menus around the country long before

complement it with all of the elements

Instagram feeds and they’re set to stick

on that dish,” says Sargent. “I think some people are guilty of not paying much

attention to burgers. They think people

will love it if they just make it really big and throw something deep-fried in. It

needs to be balanced and chefs need to be quite disciplined.”

So what do diners want?

46 | Hospitality

development process. Not only does it

would any plated dish. “You think about the protein and how you’re going to

Feathers Hotel

At 4 Pines, the Burger Fight Club

experimentation. “The nice thing about

Frankenstein variations took over

around long after. The popularity of

burgers created by 4 Pines and Feathers

Hotel prove that doing the monster mash isn’t the way forward. Instead, clever

operators will differentiate themselves

with small, almost indescribable details.

This article originally appeared in

Australian Hotelier and has been altered to suit Hospitality’s editorial guidelines. ■

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FEATURE // Recruitment

Staffing sagas

44% of small business owners in hospitality services believe wages and penalty rates are

Chefs and managers share their thoughts on the best recruitment avenues.

the top barriers to hiring new staff

Paola Toppi

Jesse Gerner

Chef and owner, Bar M and

Director, Tigerbird Group

Toppi Martin Place

What are your go-to platforms?

We use the usual paid Seek and Indeed sites.

What platforms do you use to recruit staff?

We also use Facebook and various Facebook groups

We use a variety of sources to recruit staff including

if there are no locals applying for vacancies. There is a group called

traditional options such as Seek, Scout, Gumtree and some

Italians in Sydney, which is good for finding

social media advertising. We do receive impromptu walk-ins

short-term staff.

with resume drop-offs as well. We also have a group of venues, so we handball good resumes and communicate any

What has been your experience with attracting long-term employees?

staff openings.

They have been the most difficult to recruit in recent times. I have had to

What are the most successful avenues?

sponsor most of my long-term staff as there is a real skills shortage for

There are a number of industry groups on Facebook which

chefs and restaurant managers.

have yielded positive results. With these, you are advertising directly to quality staff you’d like to attract. We’ve found

Thoughts on social media and word of mouth as recruitment tools?

Gumtree can be useful. You do get a lot of responses to sort

It can be limiting as 99 per cent of the people who see your posts

shorter stints such as an extra chef for the Christmas period.

are followers, so the chances of finding someone looking for a job

Colleague recommendations are also a great way to obtain

are slim. Word of mouth is always a good choice as you have a

staff — they know something about your venue, and you know

recommendation from an industry colleague, which is like a reference.

something about them because they are being pre-screened.

31% of business owners are employing fewer people today than 12 months ago

48 | Hospitality

through, but this has often led to great team members for

Thoughts on social media as a recruitment tool?

Social media can be a valid recruitment tool, but it’s about recognising the audience of the platform. Our Facebook and Instagram followers may not be on our page looking for a potential workplace, but if you can engage with community groups, it can prove fruitful.

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FEATURE // Recruitment

Approximately 630,000 people work in the hospitality industry

Rebecca Yazbek Co-owner, Nomad

What platforms do you rely on the most to find staff?

For social media, we tend to do shout-outs across Facebook and Instagram. Otherwise, we use Indeed, LinkedIn and Seek.

How important are colleague recommendations?

A lot of our employees have come through staff recommendations, which means they enjoy working with us enough to recommend us to their friends or colleagues from previous jobs! It’s a great way to find like-minded individuals as we are really conscious of hiring the right personality fit.

Paul Dewhurst

How successful has social media been for recruiting staff?

Operations

It generates more awareness rather than direct applicants. We always direct people through to

manager,

our ‘join the team’ tab on our website. When looking at analytics, we find hits to the page go up

Three Blue

following social media posts.

Ducks

Go-to recruitment platforms?

Our website, occasionally socials,

The majority of businesses employ less than 20 staff

Indeed, Jora, Seek, Gumtree and Sydney Bartender Exchange.

53% of employees are casual workers

Which platforms yield the biggest results?

Usually our own website provides us with the most applications. It’s good because the applicants want to work with you as opposed to

The industry has a 28 per cent vacancy rate

Jess Morris Restaurant manager, Bea

trawling through online job ads on

Do you think it’s easier or harder to attract staff for a high-end restaurant like Bea?

recruitment websites.

I don’t think it is easier or harder. It depends on the time of year, whether the market is saturated or non-existent and whether our competitors are also recruiting.

What positions are you struggling to fill right now?

Is it difficult to find skilled staff members?

None. We are always on the hunt for

From the floor perspective and for the skills we are searching for, I believe it has been challenging.

the right people, but thankfully we

We get the odd superstar via recruitment advertisements or through friends, but that isn’t always

have a consistent stream of applicants

the case. However, we are an inclusive venue, and if we see a passion for learning, we will invest in

so we aren’t desperate in any one

training and one-on-one floor sessions. We’ve dissected and scrutinised our training program and

spot or role. That being said, when we

are at the point where we can help upskill potential key section waiters, barmen and women, hosts,

properly start to recruit for Melbourne,

runners, chefs and sommeliers. Personality (also) goes a long way at Bea!

we will be after all the key roles (managers, chefs, front of house and

What are the platforms you rely on the most?

kitchen staff); all like-minded ducks!

We have a very skilled and helpful HR department who are best at creating the right Seek advert to capture the desired candidate. Sydney Bartender Exchange is a fantastic platform to target

Biggest challenge of staffing a venue from scratch?

hospo fanatics and varied skills, too.

Knowing that you need to fill

Do you use colleague recommendations?

40–50 roles and that despite all

100 per cent. Colleague or ‘friends in the industry’ recommendations are always welcome. Whether

the interviews, trials and group

they are the right fit is not always the case, but generally your colleagues will never recommend

recruitment days, at least half of

someone they didn’t feel would be successful. Not only does it convey trust in the candidate, it also

them will fall over in the stress and

communicates the skill set the venue requires. Lastly, the beauty of being part of a group such as

chaos of an opening!

Solotel is that we already have a pool of talent that either want to progress, try a different style of venue or is passionate about creating the ultimate guest experience.

50 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Recruitment

Heaven Leigh Owner, Bodhi

Which hiring platforms do you rely on the most?

Weekly wages went up 3% in 2019

It depends on the role. Seek is our go-to for senior long-term staff, Gumtree

Visa approvals have

for casual or international staffing and Sydney Bartender

decreased by

Exchange on Facebook for bar staff.

37.9 per cent from

Can you describe your interview process?

2017-2018

Casual staff have an in-person interview and a trial. More permanent senior roles will often have an initial interview followed by a more casual get-to-know-you meeting on experience (although it’s helpful); but on personality. In

Frank Chilelli

hospitality, we can teach you how to do something but we can’t

General manager, Grosvenor Hotel

teach you how to be a great employee with a good attitude

Which platforms do you use to recruit staff?

who is willing to work autonomously or in a team environment.

Over the years I have tried a number of platforms including Seek,

before being offered a role. We do not always hire based

Indeed, Jora, Possi, Barcats and Facebook. I’ve also put it out to

Thoughts on the state of staffing in the industry?

agencies. Seek remains the most successful in reaching the biggest

It’s always tough to get good staff, and the industry often

audience, and importantly an industry-specific targeted audience. It

relies on international travellers and students, but this has

is also the most expensive platform. However, I like the features built

become harder due to tougher immigration rules. There is

into their site which allow you to list minimum criteria and screening

generally always a shortage of talented and qualified chefs,

management tools.

especially if you have a specialist cuisine like we do. We are also seeing a shortage of bar staff in Sydney at the moment

What points do you consider before recruiting?

which is driving up the cost of wages to more than 6 per cent

I tend to assess the position and how integral it is for my business. This

above industry standards in New South Wales. It can make

plays a large role in where we advertise, to ensure we reach as many

it difficult for restaurant dispense bars to find good people.

potential candidates as possible. Other factors impacting consideration

Hospitality has a high turnover with the average person

include the costs associated with the whole recruitment process from the

staying less than 12 months. You really need to do more than

actual advertising to the time spent on preliminary screening processes.

just pay well to retain a great team — people want good

Evaluating this can take hours. For some positions you are literally opening

company culture, a great work environment, good colleagues

the flood gates to hundreds of applications. You then move on to the

and a job they can grow and learn in.

painstaking task of contacting candidates and scheduling interviews and commencing the interview process to find that a number of candidates either don’t reply or even show up for interviews.

Apprenticeships have dropped by 19%

What’s missing in the recruitment process?

What I think has been lost, and it’s purely a result of a time-poor environment, is the art and process of reference checking and the empathy of peers to be candid with each other. In the past five years of employing hundreds of candidates, I have only received one call for

Average business expenditure on wages is 48% The sector is set to generate 74,700 additional jobs by 2023

a reference check from an agency doing due diligence on a food and beverage attendant.

Is word of mouth/colleague recommendations the best way to go?

Word of mouth remains a good source, especially if you know the person making the recommendation and you have a strong relationship with them. There’s a very small handful of people I would turn to for a recommendation. They are people with extensive industry experience, and I have a respect for the standards they have achieved and the work ethics embedded in their fields. ■

52 | Hospitality

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54 | Hospitality

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BEHIND THE SCENES // Potato scallops

Potato scallops with Josh Niland An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series.

SAINT PETER AND Fish Butchery chef and owner Josh

1

2

3

4

5

6

Niland isn’t just a fish wizard — he’s also a pro potato scallop-maker. Childhood memories of eating scallops at the local fish and chip shop formed the inspiration for Niland’s recipe which sees Sebago potatoes steamed to a custard-like texture before they’re plunged in the deep fryer. The scallop gets its bronzed appearance from the chef’s signature batter (which he describes as a “witches’ brew”), conceptualised during his time at Heston Blumenthal’s restaurant The Fat Duck.

Ingredients Sebago potatoes. Dutch cream or Desiree will also work.

200g rice flour plus extra for dusting 275ml Victoria Bitter 170ml vodka 105g self-raising flour 20g honey 1 tsp baking powder Olsson’s salt flakes Fine salt

Method 1.

Scrub potatoes until they are clean, ensuring the skin is intact. Slice potatoes into 2-3cm disks cutting the profile of the potato at its widest.

2.

Steam for 12 minutes in a combi oven until they are a custard-like texture. Alternatively, use a basket steamer or blanch in boiling salted water.

3.

Once cooked, leave potatoes on the tray and refrigerate overnight.

4.

To prepare the batter, combine rice flour with self-raising flour and baking soda. In a separate bowl, whisk VB, vodka and honey. Add the liquid mixture to the dry mixture and whisk until smooth.

5.

Dust potato slices in rice flour and dip in batter.

Deep fry until dark golden brown and crunchy.

6.

Season with fine salt and salt flakes before serving.

Watch the full video at hospitalitymagazine.com.au

56 | Hospitality

The versatile tool can do much more than ice cakes — it’s an essential for any chef.

keep hands out of the way during finicky decorating work.

A smooth finish on the blade will allow it to easily

Look for lightweight

lift and move delicate

options with a comfortable

pastries and biscuits.

and secure grip to ensure wrists don’t tire with repetitive actions.

A high-quality stainless-steel blade ensures cake frostings

Shorter blade lengths can

and sandwich fillings

be useful when control

are evenly spread.

is required for detailed Try using an offset palette

decorating tasks and

instead of tongs or a large

frosting smaller cakes.

spatula for turning small portions of protein — it could prevent tearing.

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October 2019 | 57

EQUIPMENT // Palette knife

Palette knife

An offset handle will

5 MINUTES WITH ... // Hannah Abraham

Hannah Abraham The owner-operator of Bermagui’s il Passaggio on taking opportunities as they come, running a seasonal team and championing local community throughout her business.

I HAVE BEEN in the industry since I was about

fantastic mentors to me, right up until now.

but I started progressing and climbing the

to il Passaggio was, ‘This is the perfect size’.

ended up on the management team at Henry J

because we’re a seasonal town. It’s difficult in

17. I didn’t intend to have a career in hospitality, ladder. I was travelling when I was younger and Beans (now closed), a cocktail bar in Chelsea,

London. I think that’s probably when I decided I wanted to be in business for myself and that hospitality was probably the industry for me.

I came back to Australia and ended up

managing il Passaggio, which I now own. I was

only 27 when the opportunity to buy the venue

came up, but I went for it and it turned out to be

One of the first thoughts I had when I came

There’s 15 staff, although it fluctuates a little

some ways and easy in others. You’ve got your

core team who you really rely on. We make sure we take care of them through winter when it’s

less busy, which means sacrificing a few margins.

We’re lucky because a lot of people come for the

season each year so we don’t have to hire people and then let them go.

I grew up here and I feel very connected to the

the right decision.

area. I’ve always been really passionate about

previous owners for a few years and felt

oysters and mussels and great producers on the

I had been running the business with the

confident in many aspects of the restaurant.

I already had a great team and a clear vision of what I wanted to do. However, I was also

aware there were a lot of things I would need to learn. The previous business owners have been 58 | Hospitality

what our region has to offer. There are amazing land. I’m always a little more comfortable in a small community as well. Your customer base

is very close to you; it’s quite personal. There’s

a big group of locals who are really behind you and want to see your business succeed. ■

a claim you can’t fake.

*Made in a factory that does not use nuts and tests for the presence of peanut, walnut, almond, cashew, hazelnut, macadamia & pistachio but cannot test for the presence of other types of nuts.

For sales enquiries please contact your state representative VIC & SA - 0432 404 843 | NSW - 0439 111 442 | QLD - 0438 786 140 | WA - 0430 468 820