Hospitality November 2023

NO. 800 NOVEMBER 2023

THE TAPAS REVIVAL | JAPANESE SLIPPER | FUNDA | 10 PLATES

CONTENTS // November

Contents NOVEMBER 2023

16

28

Regulars 6 // IN FOCUS The Piccolina Gelato Project has wrapped up its third season, and there’s more to come.

8 // NEWS The latest openings, books, events, and more.

10 // PRODUCE How to grow and use bergamot.

12 // BAR CART Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related.

2 | Hospitality

38

Features 14 // DRINKS The Japanese Slipper signals the return of more-is-more cocktails.

28 // SPANISH TAPAS Two chefs on the return of the iconic dining style.

16 // PROFILE Matti Fallon gives us the lowdown on his new venue Colt Dining.

32 // 10 PLATES Dishes you need to try before the end of the year.

44 // EQUIPMENT Scoop with ease with a skimmer.

36 // FUNDA Sydney’s latest Korean hotspot has a Michelin-star team.

46 // 5 MINUTES WITH …

Sushil Aryal from Miss Pearl Bar + Dining.

38 // LONG-TERM VENUES Three establishments share the recipe to longevity.

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social Keep up with the Hospitality team

ITO ARRIVES We checked out Esca Group’s new venue Ito the night before opening. @hospitalitymagazine

A note from the editor WE’RE FAST APPROACHING the end of the

HAPPY BIRTHDAY Sou Ramen Lab celebrated its first birthday with $10 bowls. @annabellecloros

Our November issue is very much covering

year and with it comes the opportunity to

throwback themes — think the return of the

reflect — on the most memorable plates of

Japanese Slipper, the resurgence of tapas,

food that have come across the table this

and a Korean restaurant channelling Y2K

year, of course. It’s been a big year of eating

vibes. There’s also a profile on Colt Dining’s

here at Hospitality, with countless tartares,

Matti Fallon and a piece on some of the

prawn cocktails, and Basque cheesecakes

oldest venues in the country.

consumed. So, I thought I’d put together a

Until next time,

list of the top 10 dishes I’ve tried in 2023 and

Annabelle Cloros

hopefully inspire readers to add some extra

Managing Editor

THROWBACK IN TIME Smoke’s current cocktail offering is all about nostalgia. @_amynorthcott

Follow us

venues to their end-of-year dining lists.

@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine

PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au MANAGING EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au DEPUTY EDITOR Amy Northcott anorthcott@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

CIRCULATIONS To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymag azine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

SUBSCRIPTION RATES Australia: 1 year (10 issues) = $99.00 (inc GST) 2 years (20 issues) = $158.40 (inc GST) – Save 20% 3 years (30 issues) = $207.90 (inc GST) – Save 30% SUBSCRIPTION RATES New Zealand: 1 year (10 issues) = $109.00 Asia/Pacific 1 year (10 issues) = $119.00 Rest of World: 1 year (10 issues) = $129.00

DISCLAIMER This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2023 – The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd

4 | Hospitality

41 Bridge Road Glebe NSW 2037 Australia Tel: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419

Average Net Distribution Period ending September 2019 – 11,506

This season's culinary creations, done better with Saputo

HORECA

CO

y r a n i l Cu

• FESTIVE SEASON EDITION •

N NECT

CRACKERS!

Christmas '23

SCAN HERE TO VIEW OUR FOODSERVICE MAGAZINE FOR:

RECIPE INSPIRATION • OUR FOODSERVICE RANGE • USAGE RECOMMENDATIONS • PRODUCT INFORMATION Contact your local distributor to enquire or email aus.foodservice@saputo.com for further information.

IN FOCUS // The Piccolina Gelato Project

Chefs vs gelato The Piccolina Gelato Project: a chance for chefs to live their wildest dreams through the medium of gelato.

WORDS Amy Northcott

PICCOLINA GELATERIA

would invent, so I created a

people … we have had some

each chef to throw away the

launched her very first gelato

just that.”

and also worked with some

all that gelato could be,” says

FOUNDER Sandra Foti

collaboration with Scott Pickett

project that allowed me to do Each annual season of

in 2020. The duo created

The Piccolina Gelato Project

caramelised banana gelato

different chef creating three

three Thai-inspired flavours: with roasted peanuts and

lemon sorbet infused with

lemongrass; ginger and Thai

basil gelato; and caramelised palm sugar gelato with palm

sugar caramel and honeycomb.

It was an experience that

would spark the launch of The

Piccolina Gelato Project. “I was

runs for eight weeks, with a flavours that are available

for one week at a time. The program has seen many

hospitality figures try their

hand at gelato including Serai’s Ross Magnaye, Hope St Radio’s Ellie Bouhadana, and Etta’s Rosheen Kaul.

When it comes to selecting

new, up-and-coming chefs

who are award-winning and

quite established.” Experience making gelato is not a

requirement; the project is a chance for both Foti and

the chefs to learn from each

other. “It’s lots of fun to have

the opportunity to teach these incredibly creative individuals something new,” she says.

“Sharing knowledge is one of

down with Foti and her team

says Foti. “There are no real

There’s no real brief besides

around them to watch how

they worked and see what they 6 | Hospitality

rules on how we choose the

possible, and to try things they don’t necessarily get to try in their own restaurants.” It’s a

hands-on process finalising the flavours with Foti’s team, with lots of trial and error before the products are locked in.

participated in the project

towards chefs who are doing new and interesting things,”

opportunity to be as creative as

very fulfilling.”

to how I was trained,” says

Foti. “I simply wanted to be

project is to allow chefs the

Nagesh Seethiah of

the project and is personally

collaborators, it’s all about inspiration. “We gravitate

Foti. “The whole basis of the

the most inspiring aspects of

fascinated by the way a chef

approached gelato compared

rule book and to reimagine

Once chosen, chefs sit

to start working on flavours.

trying something new. “We ask

Melbourne’s Manzé

earlier this year and jumped at the chance after being

approached by Foti. “[I was

told] to keep it fun, engaging, and to get people excited

about a different take on gelato — to not hold back,” he says.

Seethiah had never made gelato before and was able to add a new skill to his repertoire. “I got to learn gelato. Sandra and

Head Chef Simon Colacino are doing a great job of keeping it contemporary while keeping tradition alive.”

Seethiah drew upon the flavours and ingredients of his

childhood in Mauritius for his gelatos — think marzipan

gelato with quince jelly, basil seeds, and evaporated milk

syrup; coconut gelato with lightly roasted grapes, creamed

cornbread, and toasted coconut; and Mauritian vanilla bean

gelato with pineapple jam, toasted coconut flakes, and spiced rum syrup. “The quince alouda [Mauritian milk drink] was

a reflection on adopting a childhood favourite into a gelato

sundae with quince,” says the chef. “The vanilla gelato with pineapple jam was influenced by the decades-old ice cream

brand in Mauritius called Vona Corona.” His advice for future chefs taking part? Get inventive. “Don’t be afraid to be as creative as you can be, Simon and Sandra will help you achieve the gelato of your dreams.”

The Piccolina Gelato Project has not only been a successful

and enjoyable exercise for Foti and her team, but its patrons who are always eager to try the new gelatos. “It’s been

amazing — many of our loyal customers ask us about when the next series is launching,” says Foti. “This year, we had

some flavours that would have tested people’s tastebuds, but

I think it is one thing customers really enjoy about the project and it’s all part of the fun.”

If you’re wondering when you can get your hands on the

next gelato cups, Foti says The Piccolina Gelato Project will

return in 2024. “We’re always looking at ways to innovate, so

next year may take on a different form — watch this space!” ■ November 2023 | 7

IN FOCUS // The Piccolina Gelato Project

“The whole basis of the project is to allow chefs the opportunity to be as creative as possible, and to try things they don’t necessarily get to try in their own restaurants.”

– Sandra Foti

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events, and more.

EDITED BY Amy Northcott

House Made Hospitality’s Martinez opens in Sydney House Made is continuing its venue streak with the launch of Martinez in Quay Tower. Executive Chef Alex Wong (Lana) and Head Chef Andrea Sonnante (exSagra) have looked to the South of France for inspiration, creating a lighter, Mediterranean-style menu for the restaurant, terrace bar, and kiosk. Think fried calamari with lemon; saffron tagliatelle with blue swimmer crab; grilled swordfish; and steak frites. “We want Martinez to capture the relaxed style of drinking and dining that is synonymous with holidays on the Mediterranean coast,” says House Made Hospitality Director Scott Brown. martinez.sydney Photography by Jason Loucas

Recipes for a Lifetime of Beautiful Cooking Danielle Alvarez with Libby Travers Murdoch Books; $49.99 Recently appointed Sydney Opera House Culinary Director and celebrated chef Danielle Alvarez has teamed up with author and food writer Libby Travers for her latest book Recipes for a Lifetime of Beautiful Cooking. It is an invite into Alvarez’s home kitchen and includes more than 100 recipes the culinary talent loves to cook for her family and friends. The dishes are an insight into Alvarez’s impressive culinary CV, too, with influences spanning from her Cuban roots to time spent cooking across California and Sydney.

Young Hearts’ new resident chef announced James Cornwall of J Sheekey London, Cumulus Inc., and Tenable fame has been revealed as Young Hearts’ resident chef. Cornwall is taking over the Melbourne bar for six months to serve up bar snacks and small plates under the name of Buvette, which means taproom or tavern in French. “It’s a neo-style bistro, but it’s not French and it’s not fine dining; it’s fun dining and that’s what is most important to me,” he says. Dishes cover a boloney club sandwich; Karubi Wagyu skewers; a Corner Inlet fisherman’s basket; and black Angus steak frites with mushroom ketchup and red wine sauce. Buvette is open Wednesday to Saturday evenings. younghearts. melbourne Photography by Jake Ellis

8 | Hospitality

NEWS // Entrée

Meatsmith: Home Cooking for Friends and Family Andrew McConnell and Troy Wheeler Meatsmith butcher Troy Wheeler and renowned

Invite only

restaurateur Andrew McConnell have penned the

Public Hospitality and The Maybe Group’s much-loved Sydney Mexican cocktail

store’s first cookbook Meatsmith: Home Cooking

bar El Primo Sanchez has revealed it has a speakeasy bar located behind a

for Friends and Family. The book is the ideal guide

hidden door. Guests can only access La Prima if they find it or receive an invite

to cooking proteins and outlines step-by-step

from a staff member. The 10-seater, 20-standing speakeasy is spinning old-school

processes to mastering iconic dishes such as

Mexican tunes and serving a rotating cocktail list designed by the Maybe Sammy

glazed roast duck, steak tartare, rib-eye steak,

team. Guests can also order food from a curated menu by Head Chef Alejandro

beef Wellington, roasts, and barbecued goods.

Huerta. elprimosanchez.com

There are more than 80 recipes included, which

Photography by Declan Blackall

Hardie Grant Books; $60

are sure to inspire new dishes or help master familiar favourites.

Melbourne’s Her Bar welcomes new head chef Alumni of Cecconi’s, The Press Club, and BKK Nada Thomas has been appointed head chef of Her Bar on Melbourne’s Lonsdale Street. Thomas has transformed the former French-leaning menu to showcase food from Italy, Spain, and France while also giving a nod to her own Turkish background. Expect dishes such as half-shell scallops with romesco and kipfler potatoes; lamb skewers with Moorish spices; grilled Wagyu tongue; and spaghetti with prawns and pangrattato.

Locality is a focus for the chef, who is working with producers such as Natoora, Somerset Farms, Clamms Seafood, Spurrell Foraging, and Savour and Grace. her.melbourne Photography by Parker Blain

November 2023 | 9

PRODUCE // Bergamot

Hybrid of a lemon and a bitter orange

Can be grown in pots Used in cookies,

with a minimum of 20L

custards, marmalades, syrups, and cocktails

High in vitamin C

Scientific name is Citrus bergamia Pale yellow flesh

Bergamot The Italian citrus might be hard to come by, but you won’t forget it.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

Origins

there are very few commercial

per day and regular watering

bergamot is not typically

Bergamot is the signature citrus

producers, with Mountain Yuzu

in the early morning or late

consumed for its flesh — its

of Reggio Calabria and is native

in Victoria part of the small

afternoon. Trees typically grow

most prized element is the rind.

to Southern Italy where it grows

local collective.

between 3–5m tall and are

While it is juiced, it’s typically

covered in vibrant green leaves

combined with other fruits or

prolifically along the coast.

Its name is derived from the

Growth and harvest

that have a distinct perfumed

added to food or beverages

Italian word Bergamotto, most

Seeds should be sown 1mm

aroma and later conceal small

in small quantities due to its

likely a nod to the Italian town

deep and spaced well apart

white flowers. Trees should bear

intense flavour. Bergamot is

of Bergamo. The citrus fruit is a

during the months of September

fruit within one year, which are

tart however it is less sour than

member of the Rutaceae family

through to December. Once the

comparable to an orange in

a lemon and more akin to a

and is sometimes referred to

seeds germinate and produce

size. Bergamots have a knobby

grapefruit or a bitter orange.

as an orange due to its size,

leaves, they can be moved to a

exterior with skin changing

Bergamot is a key element in

however its flavour profile is

more permanent location in the

in colour from lime green to

earl grey tea and is also used

very different as is the way the

ground or in a pot — either way,

slightly yellow as they ripen and

in desserts such as custards,

fruit is consumed. Bergamot

the soil must be enriched and

becomes ready for harvest.

cookies, panna cotta, and

is also found in Southeast

able to drain freely. Of course,

Asia, Morocco, Argentina, and

sun is of the utmost importance:

Southern France, but is mostly a backyard fruit in Australia as

10 | Hospitality

gelato. Besides tea, marmalade is its most common application,

bergamot plants require at least

Flavour profile and culinary uses

three hours of direct sunlight

Unlike its fellow citrus siblings,

profile to the iconic spread. ■

where it lends its signature

NEWS // Drinks

Bar cart

Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related.

EDITED BY Amy Northcott

Sights on sherry Rutherglen’s Morris Whisky are at it again with a unique barrel innovation. The limited-edition Smoked Sherry Barrel whisky is toasted in French oak before being finished in hand-smoked Sherry barrels produced by Anton Remkes. The result is a mature and complex whisky that combines savoury notes with citrus. Expect aromas of lemon myrtle and glazed ginger as well as smoke, mint, grapefruit, and nutmeg on the palate. $189; available online and from select retailers. morriswhisky.com

Boxed up Boxed wine masters Gonzo Vino have unveiled a 2023 line of vintage releases featuring 13 tipples. White, Rosé, skin-contact, and red wines have all been packaged in the brand’s sustainable packaging that keeps wine fresh for six to eight weeks after opening. Highlights include chillable red Splishy Splashy crafted from Tinta Barocca grown in the Riverland along with the Crystal Healing skin-contact Riesling; the Throw Shade Rosé made from Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Shadows in the Polygon chilled Grenache. $66 per 3L box. gonzovino.com

Citrus punch Smirnoff has welcomed a new range to its portfolio in the form of Smirnoff Sodas.

The collection includes Yuzu Citrus Burst and Pink Grapefruit Crush hard sodas that sit at 6 per cent ABV alongside three soda products with an ABV of 3.5 per cent (Lime & Lemon; Pineapple & Lime; and Peach & Lime), which are all low-calorie.

The hard sodas are $26 for a four-pack and the sodas are $24 for a four-pack; available at liquor stores nationally.

12 | Hospitality

An absolute delight

Taste of NZ

Byron Bay’s The Smoking Camel has teamed up with Brookie’s

The Mumm Central Otago Blanc de Noirs is crafted from

Gin to launch a Turkish Delight gin. The tipple is inspired by

hand-picked Pinot Noir grapes grown in the renowned

Middle Eastern flavours, with the gin infused with rose, orange

wine region located in New Zealand's South Island.

blossom, Meyer lemon, white aspen, and native raspberry.

The wine is produced using the méthode traditionnelle

The Smoking Camel is serving the spirit in its signature

process and has a fruit-forward profile with lingering

cocktail aptly named the Turkish Delight that combines the

notes of citrus and nougat. It’s the second product the

gin with pomegranate, cranberry, and lime. $74.99; available

Champagne house has produced from New Zealand fruit

from The Smoking Camel, Cape Byron Distillery, or online.

as part of the Terroirs Collection. $60 from select fine

capebyrondistillery.com

wine retailers. mumm.com/en-au

Celebrated Champagne house G.H. Mumm has turned to the country of the long white cloud for its latest release.

®

DRINKS // Japanese Slipper

Green illusion The Japanese Slipper is a step forward for the new wave of extra cocktails.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Jason Loucas and Tom Ferguson for Jacksons on George

THE WORLD OF classic cocktails is led by founding members the Negroni, the Martini, and the Old Fashioned. Australia’s

contribution to the mix? the Japanese Slipper. Invented in the

’80s — otherwise known as one of the sweetest and most-chaotic eras of cocktail making — the Slipper never quite took off as

much as its colourful counterpart the Cosmopolitan, but things

are looking up for the melon-centric drink, which slots right into the ‘loosen-up’ mentality of today’s drinkers.

Hospitality speaks to Claudia Morgan from Double Deuce

Lounge and Sam Kirk from Jacksons on George in Sydney about

their take on the drink, spin-offs, and why they think people will be going green in the very near future.

Back in 1984, French native Jean-Paul Bourguignon was working as a bartender at Mietta’s in Melbourne. A sales rep handed him a bottle of Midori and he got to work, mixing the melon liqueur with just two other elements: Cointreau and fresh lemon juice.

The name of the drink was inspired by a book he was reading to learn English, which depicted a Japanese woman and her

slippers, with the word slipper becoming a new addition to his vocabulary and cocktail history.

14 | Hospitality

DRINKS // Japanese Slipper

“It never used to happen, but in the past year, people will name-call it.”

– Claudia Morgan

While the drink was popular across

The Japanese Slipper is as straightforward

at Melbourne’s Above Board a few years

resonated with people as much as other

Midori, lemon juice, and Cointreau. The

Hayden [Lambert, owner] about it, and

Australia during the ’80s, it never quite

staples, which could be attributed to its

bright green hue or the polarity of drinks that don’t shy away from sugar.

Midori, however, is a liqueur most

people are familiar with whether it was

one of their earliest drinks or a staple in

their parent’s liquor cabinets — as was the case for Jacksons on George Bar Manager Sam Kirk. “My parents would pull out

all the random liquor bottles when we

as cocktails get, comprising equal parts

drink is shaken with ice and strained into

a chilled coupe with a maraschino cherry.

“You can bash them out as fast as you

can,” says Kirk. “We tried a few different

options, but the original reflects the era we

The discovery of the cocktail was also

part of Claudia Morgan’s early bar career

when the Double Deuce Lounge manager began learning about classic cocktails.

“I first came across it when I started

The classic is not officially on the menu

have begun to flow in over the past few Midori’s recent addition to the backbar after requests from the team. “It never

and more for things like a Cosmo or a

Piña Colada, which is what we’ve always embraced here.”

resulted in less sugar and the integration of natural melon flavourings from Japanese

melon, muskmelon, and Yubari melon. “The flavour is on point and it’s lighter and lesssweet than you think it will be,” says Kirk.

see guests sip on the rainbow. But the

who are excited to see it and they are usually well ahead of the trends.”

Along with requests for the original,

done a Japanese Slipper Collins using a

seeing people go for less-serious cocktails

means to cater to the modern palate, which

have a lot of hospitality people come in

says. “But there’s been a movement where Midori has become more popular. We’re

version on the market today. The recipe

The revival of the Japanese Slipper signals

people will name-call it,” she says. “We

Double Deuce has run its share of spin-off

retro cocktails have made a comeback and

It’s important to note the Midori you

used to happen, but in the past year,

bartending in 2012 and it was considered a bit of a daggy drink at the time,” she

and Midori.”

was changed back in 2012 by Suntory as a

I went with the classic ratio.”

months, which is fortunate timing given

Japanese Slipper.”

York also do a highball with lime vodka

like when they try it for the first time — so

“When I started working in cocktail bars, that used Midori as a base and it was the

delicious’,” he says. “Katana Kitten in New

may have last tried is not the same as the

would remember and your mates would

at Double Deuce, but Morgan says orders

I looked into the most famous cocktail

he was like, ‘Honestly, why not? It’s

are pushing at the bar — drinks your mum

had relatives over — I think that was my first experience with Midori,” he says.

ago. “I was really surprised, and I asked

cocktails inspired by the Slipper. “We’ve

Japanese melon liqueur and fresh melon as well as a frozen Glass Slipper as a special,” says Morgan. “When people read melon,

especially during summer, they order it.”

Kirk has also come across various riffs,

recalling a Midori cocktail on the menu

an incoming roster of cocktails that will

bigger picture presents an opportunity for bartenders to re-educate the public and

encourage them to give these drinks another

chance. “Everyone has memories of Midori,” says Kirk. “It was viewed as a spirit that was too sweet and fruity, but using it correctly to create a well-made drink is something people are open to. We went through a

serious two years of cocktails where drinks were pushed towards this chef mentality

of being artistic and forward-thinking, but drinkers are ready to have fun now.” ■

November 2023 | 15

PROFILE // Matti Fallon

Matti Fallon The Mornington Peninsula is the home base of the chef’s new naturalist-style cooking concept Colt Dining.

WORDS Amy Northcott

ANY CHEF, RESTAURATEUR, or operator would agree opening a venue is one of the most

challenging yet exciting times in an individual’s career. There are a million things to do before the

doors swing open, and fortunately for Hospitality, chef Matti Fallon added an interview to his to-do list two weeks out from opening his new venue Colt Dining.

16 | Hospitality

PROFILE // Matti Fallon

The New Zealand-born chef

a new perspective on the

old daughter. He later joined

in Victoria’s Mornington

ever-changing menu of Kiwi

move that would culminate

chose to launch Colt Dining

Peninsula where he grew up and began his career in the

industry at the Portsea Hotel in Port Phillip Bay. “I started off

as a dishwasher and fell in love with it from day one,” he says.

Fallon worked across front and

back of house before he moved to Melbourne to further his cheffing career.

His first big role was opening

Ponyfish Island in Southbank before he joined Longrain

and then Mamasita. He tried his hand at pop-ups before

taking some time off, but was soon drawn back to service

pastry. Princes Pies served an essentials alongside some more creative flavour combinations.

“We served a few Kiwi classics like mince and cheese, steak

and cheese, and a Shepherd’s pie,” says Fallon. “I had a

couple of other chefs and

friends of mine jump in the

kitchen and we got creative.”

Slow-cooked lamb with goat’s cheese and truffle was one

of the bestsellers. “From the

moment we opened at about

11am, we’d have a line out the door every day until we ran out of pies.”

to lead the team at Du Nord

Fallon then joined Broadsheet

with it [the cuisine] straight

retro Chinese takeaway eatery

Kitchen. “I just fell in love

away,” says the chef. “I grew up on a property with fruit

trees and veggie patches, and have always been into fishing and hunting, so [new-Nordic

cuisine] tied into the naturalist side of cooking I was into.”

After Du Nord Kitchen,

Fallon worked at the one-

hatted Huxtable on Smith Street before opening his

CBD pie shop Princes Pies.

The move came from the

desire to get out of a service

in the restaurant securing its

first hat. “I was lucky enough to get them a hat, which was

quite the achievement coming back after being off for so

long with surgery,” he says.

Fallon worked with the St

Elmo team to transform the former Spanish, tapas-style

offering into something more aligned with his own style of

cooking. “I said, ‘Can we take

it in a different direction?’, and they were more than happy to do it and we ended up doing

— for lack of a better term — contemporary Australian.”

But when Fallon learned

Kitchen as the resident chef of

his wife was pregnant with

Saint Crispin. The plan was

to the Mornington Peninsula

to expand the concept into a

permanent venue, but Fallon

was diagnosed with a serious illness. “I had AVMs which is

arteriovenous malformation —

twins, they decided to move to be closer to family. He

began cooking at Rare Hare

before the idea of Colt Dining was born.

it’s something you usually find

Fallon’s culinary direction

he explains. “Everything came

surrounds. “I would say it’s

out you’ve got in the morgue,” to a screaming halt, and I had three major brain surgeries. I

had to put everything on hiatus for a while.”

The recovery process was

environment and was

about a year-and-a-half, with

Zealand that gave the chef

with his wife and three-month-

inspired by a trip to New

St Elmo after his surgeries, a

Fallon relocating to Byron Bay

at Colt Dining is led by his

a nature-forward, produceforward style of cooking,”

the chef explains. “We’ve let

nature decide for us and then

come up with the recipes from there according to what’s in

abundance and what’s going

out of season.” In line with the November 2023 | 17

PROFILE // Matti Fallon

focus, Colt Dining prioritises locality, fermenting in-house and sourcing beach herbs from the

coast. It’s also a family business, with seafood

supplied by Fallon’s brother Andrew who has a commercial fishing licence, and foraged herbs

and fruit sourced from his parent’s property in nearby Langwarrin.

Naturally, Colt Dining’s offering will move

While signatures are off the menu, there are a

few plates Fallon and his team are excited about.

One of those being yabbie toast with native

pepper, Szechuan-style dipping sauce, and dried

bonito. “It’s almost like the prawn toast you’d get at a takeaway Chinese shop,” he says. “You still

get the fishy, earthy, natural flavour from it and a DJ booth and

Peninsula

a vinyl player

then you’ve got native pepper and the Szechuan

expect a

yabbie toast

complimentary

and deep-

snack while

fried oysters

ordering

like a pasta extruder and makes what Fallon

describes as a “30cm-long Cheeto” for guests to snack on while ordering. “It’s super fun and is one of those things that hits the table as soon

as you get here, so you can have a snack while

you look at the drinks menu,” he explains. The

plan is to make different flavours, with the first being truffle and a saltbush and vinegar combo to follow.

The bar team is led by Zac Abbot who is

fermented chilli and caviar as a tongue-in-

creations [a rhubarb and home-made lemon curd

of ordering oysters and it being super fancy,” serving up

machine’. According to the chef, the gadget is

working very closely with Fallon and the kitchen.

Fallon names deep-fried oysters with

dozen oysters. “It’s trying to demystify the idea Guests can

and smoked, slow-cooked brisket. Something

to give it more bite.”

cheek take on the “fanciness” around ordering a

Fallon is

– Matti Fallon

Colt Dining is also equipped with? A ‘Cheeto

what we’re all about.”

Mornington

what’s going out of season.”

and we’re not holding ourselves hostage to the

thing. We’ll adapt, create, and collaborate as it’s

The venue has

there with what’s in abundance and

flames — think grilled shishito peppers, lamb,

idea of signature dishes,” he says. “It’s not our

in Victoria’s

then come up with the recipes from

with the seasons, which is something Fallon is

very eager about. “Everything will change a lot

Colt Dining is

“ We’ve let nature decide for us and

he laughs. The dish is also a display of Fallon’s commitment to low-waste cooking due to the

“The bar is doing a lot of molecular-esque

Gimlet plus a French oak-aged Sazerac] and is also doing fermenting on-site,” says the chef.

“There’s a lot of we’ll be working on together including some food and drink pairings.”

Colt Dining also ties in Fallon’s other love:

oysters being deep-fried and not needing to be as

music. “We’ve got a little DJ booth and we’ve got

in Byron Bay, I watched people throw out oysters

he says. “My business partners all owned a

fresh as they are when served raw. “When I was daily and I was like, ‘Why are we doing this?’.

It’s one of those products that just doesn’t last

long unless you use them quickly. People don’t

more vinyl coming — I’ve got a big collection,”

bunch of live music venues as well, so it’s all our passions in one place.”

understand the impact it has on small farmers.”

By the time this story is printed, Colt Dining

which means plenty of produce cooked over

For Fallon, opening his own venue in the area

Colt Dining is equipped with an open fire,

will be one month old and finding its groove.

he grew up in is a full-circle moment. “It feels amazing to be here,” he says. “It’s great to be

back around people who I’ve known forever, and

everyone’s come on board collectively and helped in some way.”

Fallon is hopeful Colt Dining will fill the hole

of casual, yet refined dining in the area as both a spot to enjoy a special-occasion meal at or spend an afternoon grazing away on snacks

and cocktails. No matter the reason, the chef’s approach is sure to catch the attention of both locals and tourists alike. ■

18 18 || Hospitality Hospitality

Natural & affordable vanilla flavour

Feeling the pinch? Queen Professional is here to help with a new flavour solution. Our Bakers Blend Vanilla Natural Flavour and Paste is an affordable alternative to pure vanilla. Proudly manufactured in Brisbane using natural flavours, Bakers Blend has a creamy, French-inspired vanilla flavour profile. If you’re looking to improve your menu profitability, while still delivering outstanding flavour, choose Bakers Blend.

Available in: 500mL, 5L & 20L

600g & 10kg

GLUTEN FREE

VEGAN SUITABLE

NATURAL FLAVOURS

NO ARTIFICIAL COLOURS

For more amazing ingredient ideas contact us AUS 1800 647 486 queenprofessional.com.au

ALCOHOL FREE

ADVERTORIAL // RSN Australia

It’s all about

THE GLASS Discover how glassware can elevate the customer drinking experience.

20 | Hospitality

ADVERTORIAL // RSN Australia

A HIGH-QUALITY AND diverse drinks offering

has long been an integral aspect of the hospitality experience. Just as guests have become more

discerning about what they eat, they are equally

as mindful about what they drink — and the glass it’s served in. The notion is of particular relevance to wine, with lists growing to showcase emerging producers and varieties beyond the norm.

RSN Australia Managing Director Mark

Baulderstone says the shift is widespread, with

venues across the country paying more attention to wine offerings. “Having a good wine list is

important,” he says. “Gone are the days where

you’d go to venues that have just ‘red wine’ and ‘white wine’.”

variety. “We’re talking to venues who were using

to the savviness of the modern consumer, who

with maybe one or two glasses that pretend to do

Baulderstone attributes the accelerated growth

has become more educated when it comes to the landscape. “People have become very passionate

about wine,” he says. “For example, they will tell you if they love or hate Chardonnay.”

what we would classify as standardised glassware, every drink,” he says. “The reality is consumers don’t drink that way and it’s not what they’re looking for.”

Selecting varietal-specific glassware ensures

A wide-ranging wine list has now become the

wines are served in an optimal manner that

while some venues have an in-house sommelier,

“Consumers love the variance between all the

standard, with customers expecting options. And temperature-controlled storage, or decant tableside, the most impactful and convenient way

to demonstrate a high-quality wine offering is through glassware.

At RSN Australia, the idea of quality wine service

conveys the full profile of the wine to the consumer. different varieties that exist which means the only way to match this is to have the right glass,” he

says. “It’s about matching the grape variety to the glass to enhance the experience.”

The first step of building your glassware range is

is at the core of its brands RIEDEL, SPIEGELAU,

to review your wine offering. “Is it at the price point

have one good glass of wine, we want it to be the

of wine $200 and above or is it more like $50

and NACHTMANN. “If your consumer is going to

best glass of wine,” says Baulderstone. “We want to match the glass to the variety itself to elevate that

experience. That’s what we’re looking for and that’s what we aim to do.”

While some venues opt for a one-size-fits-

all solution when it comes to wine glasses,

Baulderstone suggests turning the focus back to the

you want to target, are you only aiming at bottles and above?” says Baulderstone. He also suggests thinking about the type of consumer your venue hosts as well as the style of service and food the venue offers.

RSN Australia’s three brands RIEDEL,

SPIEGELAU, and NACHTMANN offer a vast

collection of ranges that suit everything from small to large wine listings. “We can customise it and tailor it for you,” says Baulderstone. “We have

lots of different ranges, all made with different

manufacturing techniques and with a different feel and finesse in the hand.”

Baulderstone encourages operators to speak to

the RSN Australia team to tailor your glassware

offering today. “Depending on what you’re trying to achieve within your venue, we can give you different looks and aesthetics and therefore a

different application and product to suit,” he says.

Investing in quality glassware will ensure

consumers have a top-notch wine drinking

experience each time they visit your venue. To view wholesale pricing for nearly 280 products, visit riedel.com/en-au/business ■

November 2023 | 21

Serving suggestion

Serving suggestion

Cooking Cream 2L

Thickened Cream 5L

• 18% fat • Heats quickly to high temperatures, without burning or splitting • Ideal viscosity for sautéing, reducing, pan-frying, baking, freezing and whipping

• 35% fat • Rich cream flavour • Suitable for halal, kosher and vegetarian customers • Gelatine free

Serving suggestion

Serving suggestion

Slices Range

Cheese Range

• High yield • Strong cheese flavour • High melting point • Packed perfectly for convenience and efficiency

• Strong parmesan and mozzarella flavours • Natural White To Light Cream Colour • Shredded or shaved profiles For more information, please visit www.begafoodservice.com.au

FEATURE // Spanish tapas

The return of

tapas

FOR MANY DINERS, their first small plates dining experience was at a tapas restaurant. Like most cuisines, tapas peaked

before it mellowed out in popularity, but venues are beginning to re-emerge in a more modern form, offering dishes that

are reflective of traditional Spanish cuisine. To find out more

about the Spanish tapas offering of today, Hospitality speaks to Iberica’s Joaquin Saez and Beso’s Ana Cortes Garcia.

The cuisine that put the small plate on the map has a new lease of life.

When Joaquin Saez arrived in Australia 10 years ago, the tapas

WORDS Amy Northcott

scene suddenly just died as there was no demand for it,” says

scene was going through a rough patch. “The Spanish dining

the chef. “There was a lack of care for the products and a lack of

variety of dishes as well — it got a little bit boring. I think it was considered as a basic option and there was a lot of fried stuff like garlic prawns and croquettes.”

24 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Spanish tapas

“Spanish restaurants are emerging again, but on another level.”

– Joaquin Saez

November 2023 | 25

FEATURE // Spanish tapas

A chat with Alex Cameron, GM of Sydney’s Franca and Parlar, a few

years ago inspired Saez to introduce Australians to a more authentic version of Spanish tapas. “Alex and I were talking about how

Spanish cuisine is not what the Australian public thinks it is,” says the chef. “Spanish cuisine is much more than that.”

Fast forward to 2023 and the chef opened Iberica in Sydney’s

Bondi Beach, which serves plates stirred by traditional Spanish offerings with a strong focus on variety and quality. “Spanish

restaurants are emerging again, but on another level,” says the

chef. He lists other venues such as Bar La Salut, Bar Louise, and Parlar as examples of restaurants serving a similar style of food.

“There is the demand for it now, it’s just a matter of bringing it in the right way.”

Ibercia’s menu has been co-designed by Saez and Executive Chef

Ivan Sanchez who has 15 years’ experience in Spanish cuisine,

joining the venue after time at Porteño and Bodega. Saez says the

Iberian ham, guindilla peppers, and pickled vegetables and pulpo

grillado (grilled octopus) with smoked potato cream and paprika.

Iberica offering is rooted in the flavours and ingredients of Spain

When it comes to drinks pairings, there’s plenty of options beyond

bit more on the Balearic Islands, so on the coast of Barcelona,

Spanish beers including Damm’s Inedit which is a collaboration

as well as the greater Mediterranean. “We want to focus a little like Majorca, Minorca, Ibiza, and those regions,” he explains.

Saez brands the food at Iberica as Spanish-Mediterranean, which sees seafood championed across the menu in favour of red meat and poultry.

Guests can expect to find matrimonio anchoa y boquerón on

the menu, a common dish in Spain, particularly in the Balearic

sangria. The beverage list features a selection of traditional

with El Bulli’s Ferran Adria. But a riff on sangria has remained

popular among guests. “A lot of people will go with the tinto de

verano which is kind of like sangria,” he explains. “We do it with

Tempranillo, Cognac, a bit of triple sec, cranberry soda, and lemon — it’s delish.”

But if he had to choose, Saez believes Spanish wines are the

Islands. “Matrimonio translates to marriage, and it’s a marriage

ideal pairing and something he hopes more Australian diners will

boquerón,” says Saez. The snack sees the two anchovies served

Australia, so are Spanish wines,” says the chef. Iberica’s wine list

between the anchovy and another type of anchovy called

on toast with sobrasada, tomato, and a little bit of thyme. Other favourites include the venue’s namesake jamon Iberico with

explore. “In the same way Spanish cuisine is a little underrated in is made up of around 70–80 per cent Spanish wines from various regions including the Canary Islands and Majorca.

Over in Melbourne, Spanish-born chef Ana Cortes Garcia has recently opened contemporary eatery Beso on Flinders Lane.

Beso’s cuisine is tagged as ‘Spanish reimagined’ and fuses Garcia’s extensive knowledge of her motherland cuisine with subtle,

unique influences from her time spent working across venues such as Lee Ho Fook.

Garcia agrees tapas has evolved over time, but more so in terms

of its influence. “It is undeniable the word ‘tapas’ has spread across many different cuisines and the concept is no longer solely owned

by Spanish restaurants,” she says. “Over the last three to four

years, the number of new businesses that have implemented the concept has increased drastically.”

When it comes to the food itself, Garcia sees the modern-day

tapas offering as a blend of traditional flavours and dishes with experimental takes peppered in. “Generally speaking, when I

think about a tapas offering, I think about variety — OG classics combined with new creations,” she says. “Tapas is the perfect concept for implementing a combination of traditional and modern creations to a menu.”

Beso’s menu reflects an old-meets-new approach but is strongly

derived from food found in the Spanish region of Andalusia. An

example is the popular Andalusian tapas dish berenjenas fritas con miel de caña. “[It’s] thin slices of eggplant coated with a mix of 26 | Hospitality

COMMERCIAL ICE MAKERS | REFRIGERATION

D UR A B L E

R EL I A B L E

AUTHENTIC

hoshizaki.com.au

FEATURE // Spanish tapas

“Tapas is the perfect concept for implementing a combination of traditional and modern creations.” – Ana Cortes Garcia plain flour and chickpea flour that is deep-fried

know is sitting at a round table with a bunch

a pinch of flaked salt.”

conversation, and feeling relaxed in a warm

until crispy and drizzled with date molasses and Another example is the rabo de toro a la

Cordobesa oxtail dumplings with parmentier and

and when the meat is melting, we mix it with

are booking tapas-style meals for celebrations

dumplings.” The menu also includes a pork jowl chicharrón dish with yuzu togarashi as well as a recently

is rooted in

opened in

flavours from

Sydney’s Bondi

Andalusia

Beach

cured meats and cheese section: think 48-month jamon Iberico Joselito (ham), lomo (pork loin), sobrasada (Spanish sausage), and fuet anis

believes tapas is a chance

mainly

for chefs to

features

show their

Spanish wines

personalities

casual dining concept where they finish work

and stop by their local to have a couple of tapas before dinner or drinks.”

cuisine, and the format shows no signs of fading

popular choice, which teams lager with a splash of soda. She also notes the tinto de verano as

dining has now been adapted by almost every in popularity. “It’s fun food you can grab with

your fingers and I think it’s more like a lifestyle, so I don’t think that’ll change anytime soon,” says Saez.

For Garcia, tapas is at the very beginning

another option, but with an addition. “Red

of its resurgence. “I honestly think it hasn’t

and if you add a slice of orange and a Spanish-

raciones, and pintxos are a very fun way of

wine with lemonade is called a tinto de verano, style ‘free-pour splash’ of red vermut, it’s called a vargas.”

When it comes to dining, Garcia and Saez

believe tapas ticks all the boxes “Tapas as you 28 | Hospitality

love to see people embrace tapas as a more

When it comes to drinks, Garcia believes there

suggests. Cocktail-wise, Garcia says a Clara is a

wine list

or as a ‘different’ experience,” she says. “I would

The shared experience that comes with tapas

lager, Txakoli, Macabeo, or Tempranillo,” she

Iberica’s

see it mostly as a special occasion where people

(fennel and pork salami).

should be many. “Fino or Oloroso Sherry wine,

Garcia

Garcia thinks of tapas as a formal dining

experience but is hoping things will change. “I

the sauce and use it as a stuffing to make

Beso’s menu

space with genuine service,” says Saez.

Lanzhou chilli oil. “We make a very traditional

oxtail stew (originally from Cordoba, Andalusia)

Iberica

of friends sharing everything, having a casual

reached its peak yet,” says the chef. “Tapas, eating, sharing, and socialising. Smaller sizes invite you to try more during the same meal and for chefs, it gives us the opportunity to

showcase our identities and style of cuisines in a broader way.” ■

PREMIUM QUALITY STOCKS, JUS & GLACE

Made in Australia, Bone Roasters products are 100% natural with no added salt, flavour enhancers or thickeners.

Using real bones and the freshest ingredients, our products are cooked using a traditional open kettle method and simmered for up to 30 hours.

Available in 2.5kg Frozen and 300mL /500mL Retail Ready sizes To order, contact your foodservice distributor To view the full range visit: www.edlyn.com.au/bone-roasters PROUD SPONSOR

An Edlyn Foods brand

Follow us @edlyn_foods

FEATURE // Best of the best

10 plates Standout dishes that need an intro to your dining roster.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

Porkfat’s Phuket tiger prawn curry Porkfat in Haymarket is hands-down making some of the best Thai food in the city in my

opinion. It’s another one of my most-visited eateries and I am slowly eating my way

through the menu — which is hard when I

must resist reordering the grilled pork jowl

with smoked chilli nam jim. Anyway, onto the curry, which is a yellow iteration per Phuket’s take. The Southern-style curry is made with

LIKE MANY OF you reading this, eating my way across Sydney (and

beyond) takes up a big part of the pie chart that is my life. A multi-course tasting menu and a steaming kimchi-jjigae are equally savoured in my

books, so I thought I’d share some of the most memorable plates I’ve been fortunate enough to come across this year — 10 to be exact. Mumu’s

abalone with concealed vermicelli noodles, Poetica’s oysters covered in

piping-hot ’ndjua, and Porkfat’s Phuket curry are a few of the plates you really ought to try (but best you don’t skip on the rest of the list).

30 | Hospitality

Makrut lime leaves, betel leaves, and a

generous amount of black pepper served with tiger prawns sourced from Queensland. The prawns are jumbo and the curry has a nice

undercurrent of heat that’s mellowed out by the jasmine rice. I’m probably about to hit my 10th meal at Porkfat soon and I really

appreciate the front-of-house team here, who gently make sure you don’t order too much.

The salt palace aka Palazzo Salato has been cranking since it

opened its doors earlier this year and is the largest venue from the Love Tilly Group. Having frequented its other Italo-leaning venues Fabbrica and Ragazzi, I was keen to see how the new

addition would fit into the group’s portfolio. The answer hit me as soon as I stepped foot into Palazzo on a Saturday for lunch — it was absolutely packed. The restaurant was offering a $65 lunch menu at the time and included a dish I hadn’t seen on a menu

before — ham with Colatura hot sauce. I’ve had my fair share of

cured meats but seeing ham solo was intriguing, and rightfully so.

Shavings of ham are dressed in a hot sauce made with Colatura di Alici (an Italian aged fish sauce), garnished with chives, and

served with two thin slices of focaccia. Eat as is or turn it into a mini ham sandwich.

Bar Copains’ beef tongue skewer Every time I go to Bar Copains in Surry Hills (and there’s

been many), a beef tongue skewer or two is what I call an essential order. I have high hopes it will never leave the menu (along with the amaro crème caramel), but until then, it’s mandatory eating at the venue spearheaded

by Morgan McGlone and Nathan Sasi. Thinly sliced beef tongue is speared onto a metal skewer, cooked on the

grill, and teamed with salsa verde and horseradish. It’s a savoury hit that honestly reminds me a bit of the corned

beef you’d find on a Reuben (in the best way). The skewer

both melts in your mouth and has bite thanks to its craggly

edges courtesy of the grill; a great example of a pared-back approach.

Jingogae’s bibimbap Those who know me could easily name Korean as one

of my go-to cuisines. And while I will never turn down

KBBQ and a golden bowl of makgeolli, I can’t go past the no-frills mom-and-pop-style suburban eateries. Jingogae

is located in North Sydney and has been family run since its inception, with just two people working across the

kitchen and the floor. The menu is quite extensive, but

I’d recommend going straight to the traditional Korean

dishes page. Bibimbap is served in the traditional dolsot

stone bowl, with Jingogae modelling its version from the Jeollabuk-do province’s Jeonju iteration, with marinated

beef, seasoned vegetables (zucchini and enoki on my visit) kimchi, gochujang, and rice topped with a fried egg. The bowl arrives to the table with a crackling soundtrack — nourishing food at its best.

November 2023 | 31

FEATURE // Best of the best

Palazzo Salato’s ham

FEATURE // Best of the best

Gimlet’s half lobster I headed to Melbourne for just one night last July, which presented a conundrum — where to eat? Out of all the restaurants that

had opened since my last visit in 2018 (embarrassing, I know), Gimlet had to be it. After writing about the tableside tartare and interviewing bar whiz Cameron Parish on the gin fizz a

little while ago, I had high hopes for the Gimlet experience — something I usually try to avoid — but it delivered. The value

of Gimlet’s $150pp seasonal menu was obvious from the main: a half rock lobster roasted in saffron rice with rouille. The

crustacean was wheeled over to the table for a photo op before it was deconstructed by a member of the front of house team. The

saffron rice was memorably umami and punctuated with tomatoes that tasted highly seasonal, despite the fact it was winter. The

lobster was accompanied by fries and a house salad, also good teammates for the leftover rice.

What is a flambadou? is the question I asked myself when I saw it on the menu.

Poetica’s flambadou oysters What is a flambadou? is the question I asked myself when I saw it on the menu. Obviously, some type of flame was

involved, which made sense when Chef Connor Hartley-

Simpson demoed the process of covering oysters in molten fat from a metal cone that is a flambadou. A heated cone was filled with beef fat which flames before the fat was

drizzled over the oysters which each had a guindilla pepper and some ’nduja nestled inside. The process ultimately

cooks the oyster and caramelises the ’nduja, resulting in one of the more unique oyster offerings in Sydney.

Mumu’s grilled abalone Abalone is up there for me when it comes to seafood — it’s tender, slightly chewy, and reminiscent of a scallop (also

up there). So, when I went to Mumu for the first time for lunch, I had to try Head Chef Oliver Hua’s take on the

dish, who put together the menu with Merivale Executive Chef Dan Hong. Baby black lip abalone is served in its

shell which is filled with chilli, garlic, coriander, fish sauce, brown butter, and vermicelli. It’s a moreish bite with a

welcome funk from the fish sauce and also very reasonably priced at $12 a pop. A good starter for the rest of the Mumu experience.

32 | Hospitality

Elevate Your Food Safety Standards with Mun Quality Gloves!

Your Trusted Partner for Food Handling Key Features Superior protection against contamination Comfortable fit for extended use Versatile for various food preparation tasks Easy to put on and take off Quality you can trust, from kitchen to table

Get your hands in one today!

www.munglobal.com.au/haccp-certified-gloves

FEATURE // Best of the best

Bibim means

Keep an eye

mixed and bap

out for Clam

means rice

Bar’s sconces

Clam Bar’s spaghetti and clams I knew I was going to like Clam Bar when I spotted the entryway across the street. The name of

the restaurant is spelled out vertically down the side of each door — an impactful design choice.

Poetica’s

Gimlet’s

oysters are

front-of-house

drizzled with

team breaks

flaming

down lobsters

beef fat

tableside

The crack team behind Sydney’s Pellegrino 2000 and Bistrot 916 have done it again with their

latest offering, taking over the former location of the Bridge Room and decking it out with vintage posters, leather banquette seating, and clam sconces fixed to the walls. Clam Bar’s namesake

spaghetti is coated in a sauce of butter, white wine, garlic, parsley, and a pinch of chilli that pools

in the Diamond clams and onto the bottom of the plate. Once you’re done with the spaghetti, beef fat potatoes or fries are the ideal dunking vessels to polish off the rest of the sauce.

Ursula’s egg sandwich An egg sandwich at Ursula’s? A very clever take on a

classic by Owner and Chef Phil Wood at the Paddington

restaurant. A generous glob of egg ‘salad’ is sandwiched between two wafer-thin circular discs and topped with

salmon roe that will fall to the plate as soon as you take a bite — but maybe not if you eat it in one go. Speaking of

bites, it is all things rich and decadent, with the popped roe punctuating the morsel’s creaminess in the best way. There is a fine line between innovating a menu and pleasing customers, and I really appreciate the way Wood has

evolved the menu at Ursula’s over the two years it’s been open — dining here is always a pleasure.

Xin Jiang Hand Made Noodle’s beef noodles Chatwood is one of my most-frequented eating suburbs in

my downtime (or any time) whether it’s ramen at Manpuku,

Malaysian food a la Amah, or in this case, handmade noodles.

This upstairs eatery serves dishes from its namesake location in Xinjiang in northwest China, which means the menu is

full of handmade dumplings, cumin lamb skewers, and my rec — noodles. There’s a decent selection across soup and

dry applications, but I can’t go past the beef noodles which are doused in a spice mix of cumin, Sichuan peppercorns, and coriander seeds and covered in a sauce of chilli oil,

vinegar, Shaoxing wine, and soy. The dish is typically stir-fried with ginger, garlic, onion, and a shower of coriander and is something I could easily eat on a weekly basis.

34 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Funda

PRESS PLAY A new era of Korean dining arrives in Sydney via Funda.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

BACK IN AUGUST, a confidential invitation

arrived in my inbox to experience a modern Korean restaurant “with Y2K vibes”. My

curiosity was piqued with the mention of Y2K and cemented when I saw the chef

team: Jung-su Chang, Chris Kim, and Yuji

Shin who each have resumes studded with Michelin stars and hats.

Chang and Shin worked together at

Jungsik Seoul, which currently holds two

Michelin stars, and is renowned for cuisine that takes foundational Korean dishes such

as gimbap and evolves them into plates that are both familiar and cutting-edge. It’s long

been regarded as one of the best restaurants in the city, which has no doubt left an

imprint on how Chang and Shin work, think, and cook.

I speak to chef team Chang and Kim

about joining the new opening, developing the menu from abroad, and how they

hope to plate up dishes diners have never experienced before.

36 | Hospitality

nashi pear should be at the top of your list,

Firestone’s Jang Ho So is the owner

for scooping. The calamari with soy-pickled

in another country,” he says.

of Funda, with the restaurateur also

recruiting and relocating pastry chef Yuji Shin from Seoul, with former Sepia and

Tetsuya’s talent Chris Kim rounding out the team, which came together a few months before Funda launched to the public in August.

Chang began working on the menu from afar last September, and his experience

with European cuisine is as evident as the Korean influences. Head Chef Kim says

the style of food found at Funda may be

something unique for Sydney, but is very much the norm in Korea. “Most Korean

restaurants are modernised, and globally it’s [the cuisine] become more popular,”

he says. “It’s Korean flavours with modern techniques,” adds Chang.

While developing a menu from a

different country could be a challenge for

he says

It took around 10 months or so before

projecting the restaurant’s name and leads

which is plentiful, to say the least. There’s

you look — something I’ve yet to see in a Sydney restaurant, which typically sticks to a more pared-back aesthetic. If I had

to condense Funda into a few words, I’d

describe it as ‘fine dining meets karaoke’, and no doubt something different in a sector that can be a little serious.

Speaking of fine dining, Executive Chef

Jung-su Chang couldn’t be more suited

Funda’s dishes were inked on the menu, a lot to choose from, and a second visit

is likely warranted for fans of the style of

cooking. A fried seaweed roll stuffed with

comes with pros and cons, but Chang says fronting Funda was a one-off opportunity

he couldn’t turn down. “I was approached to join the restaurant last year and saw it

approach, with each of the four options featuring their own set of unique

dimensions. Yuja tea and coconut combine via a yuzu and perilla leaf granita with coconut sorbet and pineapple, while a local touch is spotted in the pav,

which sees yeast meringue teamed with

makgeolli ice cream and injeolmi rice cake.

The foundational jujube is the hero in a cake served with butterscotch caramel, jujube mousse, and crispy kataif, with

Shin switching out the sorbet according to what’s in season.

openings each month, but Funda is

experiential the city has seen this year.

Chang will soon open neighbouring restaurant Allta, a 15-seat Korean

omakase concept, and says the reception

at Funda so far has been encouraging. “It is challenging for us to try and present

flavours as Korean dishes aren’t popular at the moment,” he says, “but we want people to experience what we do.” ■

tteok (rice cakes) with sausages is also

part of the starters — but Funda’s take is accompanied by avocado purée and gochujang.

Grilled leek has been one of the most-

and Korean master soy sauce, which is

opening in another country no doubt

Desserts abide by the not-too-sweet

and the iconic street snack of skewered

Seoul and time cooking for French icon

a restaurant with Michelin stars to a new

soy-cured bluefin tuna.

a perilla leaf is served with yuzu kosho,

ordered plates and sees the vegetable

Pierre Gagnaire beforehand. Moving from

with cucumber, spring onions, and slices of

prawn and scallop mousse encased by

to the job. He relocated to Sydney after

working as the executive chef of Jungsik

dressed in mushroom sauce and served

easily one of the most innovative and

of what’s to come. Automatic glass doors

there’s colour and movement everywhere

bibim naengmyeon which sees cold noodles

Sydney. “It wasn’t that hard because I

Australian ingredients wasn’t too difficult,”

to an open kitchen surrounded by lights —

should also make the cut, alongside the

Sydney welcomes a number of new

already know Korean flavours and adding

open off Pitt Street to a neon tunnel

seaweed, celery, and seaweed crumble

some, Chang’s experience meant the dishes easily came together when he arrived in

The name Funda provides a good indicator

which comes with a bowl of pappadums

teamed with stracciatella, pistachio relish, made in-house. The soy-cured prawns with burrata have been equally as in-

demand, and while soy-cured proteins are commonplace in Korea, the addition of burrata is certainly not.

For Funda first-timers, the beef tartare

with chojang sauce, pine nut foam, and

November 2023 | 37

FEATURE // Funda

as my last chance to open a new restaurant

FEATURE // Long-term venues

TEST OF TIME

RUNNING A HOSPITALITY business comes with plenty

Hospitality chats with some of the country’s oldest venues to find out the secrets to their success.

ups and downs to cement themselves as foundational

WORDS Amy Northcott PHOTOGRAPHY Kitti Gould and Steven Woodburn for Bistro Moncur; Monica Styles for Neighbourhood Wine; and Melanie Desa for Oriental Teahouse

of challenges, particularly after the pandemic and in

the midst of a cost-of-living crisis. But there are many venues across the country that have survived myriad

establishments in the communities they operate within.

But just how have they done it? Hospitality speaks

to Almay Jordaan from Neighbourhood Wine, Yanan Zhou from Oriental Teahouse, and Simon Tebbs and Tom Deadman from Bistro Moncur about how each

venue came to be, navigating challenges, and remaining current in an ever-changing dining landscape.

38 | Hospitality

has been at the heart of its

able to self-critique. “It is key

faithful to our core values of

says it all comes down to being to always look for areas to

improve and never be afraid

to completely change direction if you feel something is not

working anymore,” she says.

“The Melbourne hospo scene is a fairly dynamic one — being static is not an option.”

Neighbourhood Wine’s food

offering is rooted in dishes

Neighbourhood Wine opened in Melbourne’s Fitzroy

North just over 10 years ago and has become the go-to

watering hole for many. Almay Jordaan is the co-owner and chef behind the much-loved establishment, going on to

launch sibling venues Old Palm Liquor and Bahama Gold.

Jordaan and her team have

taken a wide approach to

keeping old and new patrons coming into Neighbourhood Wine from launching

new menu offerings and

partnerships to changing

service times, and focusing

being accessible and a place for everyone, while maintaining quality and value in our

offering,” she says. Nurturing

talent must also be prioritised.

“Invest in training and good

HR systems as soon as feasibly possible — your team is everything.”

Neighbourhood Wine’s

clientele has always been

to reflect the strengths of the

in many different age groups.

team. “When we opened, I

Neighbourhood Wine

success. “We have remained

inspired by European cuisine,

but has evolved over the years

cooked every service and really lived my dream, changing the menu as often as I wanted and relying on my French

training to feature technically challenging items,” says

Jordaan. But as more chefs

varied, with the venue bringing “It was a particularly young

crowd when we first opened

but has spread out more evenly over time,” says Jordaan. “We

have always had a lot of loyal, local regulars, which is hugely important to us.”

Over the years, Jordaan has

joined the team, and Jordaan

watched the wine bar scene

a different position within the

launching at the start of the

had children, she moved into

business. “I’m more in the role

of culinary director and I work with the chefs heading up the

kitchen team to create a menu that shows their style but is true to the venue’s ethos.”

Jordaan believes

commitment to the

Neighbourhood Wine brand

FEATURE // Long-term venues

on social media. But Jordaan

evolve, with Neighbourhood sector’s growth period. “When we opened, there was a

handful of fairly conventional wine bars in town,” she says.

“We leaned into the lo-fi side

of things early as it was taking hold in Melbourne. So much

for all the people who said it was a passing fad...”

“It is key to always look for areas to improve and never be afraid to completely change direction if you feel something is not working anymore.”

– Almay Jordaan

10

YEARS

November November2023 2023||39 39

FEATURE // Long-term venues

20 YEARS

Oriental Teahouse Oriental Teahouse first opened in 1993 in

Melbourne’s CBD as a Chinese teashop. The

venue went on to launch yum cha and is now celebrating its 20th anniversary.

According to Oriental Teahouse General

Manager Yanan Zhou, customers have been a vital part of the venue’s longevity and are of great importance to the team. “Our regulars supported us through Covid-19 and we are

so lucky,” she says. Customers also play a role in keeping the Oriental Teahouse team across what dishes are working and what’s not. “We

treat our customer feedback like data and find

trends and patterns within repetitive feedback.”

One of Zhou’s most memorable dining stories

is of two people who met at the South Yarra venue. “They were initially mistaken for a

couple, but they were strangers,” says the GM. “Several weeks later, they returned for their

official first date — evidently it went splendidly

— and as the years passed, they have continued

accumulative perspective when examining our

the family recently celebrated their daughter’s

downturn one week, we can [strive] to regain

to mark their anniversaries with us.” Zhou says 16th birthday at the venue, which was a full-circle moment for the team.

When it comes to challenges, Zhou says

working together is vital. “It’s hospitality!

Staffing, inflation … we face different

challenges based on the current environment we are in,” she says. “We tackle obstacles by

discussing the hard facts as a team and using our different backgrounds and experiences to make decisions.” Paying attention to

numbers and data is also of great importance when it comes to navigating bumps in the

road. “Everyone has great ideas and different priorities, so we have to get everyone on the

numbers, we ensure that if we encounter a our momentum in the subsequent weeks.”

Zhou’s advice for venues looking to make

it long-term? The magic number. “The magic

investing in

Teahouse first

people — both

where we maximise our seating capacity

opened as a

staff and diners

teashop in 1993

— is vital

number resides in finding the optimal balance without overburdening our team and risking

customer complaints,” explains the GM. Zhou

says this is achieved by determining the number of tables a single team member can serve and

then deciding if more guests require more staff.

“Work out the magic number per site, stick to it,

Tebbs notes the

Jordaan

importance of

worked every

operations around it.”

marketing, public

service when

relations, and

she opened the

social media

bar

and build a working model and the restaurant’s Looking to the future, Oriental Teahouse

same page and anchor them with a common

hopes to hit the century mark. “Our goal is to

KPIs enables us to navigate the day-to-day

that we can pass through generations as a place

goal. Our reliance on monthly and quarterly fluctuations of the industry. By adopting an 40 | Hospitality

All venues agree Oriental

create a teahouse that can last over 100 years of continuity.”

Nearly 60 years in market, Hospitality magazine is a stalwart of the comprehensive stable of titles produced by Food and Beverage Media.

See the full range of our liquor and hospitality titles below.

AUSTRALIAN HOTELIER

HOSPITALITY MAGAZINE

NATIONAL LIQUOR NEWS

BEER & BREWER

HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

THE SHOUT NEW ZEALAND

WORLD OF WINE

SPICE MAGAZINE

Food & Beverage Media is a division of The Intermedia Group.

For the best coverage of the food and drink sectors in Australia, subscribe to our titles at www.intermedia.com.au

FEATURE // Long-term venues

“We treasure every one of them [our regulars], they have kept us going for decades.” – Simon Tebbs

30 YEARS

Bistro Moncur Bistro Moncur has been a long-standing favourite for locals in

Sydney’s Woollahra. The French bistro opened its doors on 23

February 1993, with the restaurant celebrating 30 years of serving its signature bistro food made with local produce. “There are so

many [dishes] that have grown their own fan clubs over the years,”

says Restaurant Manager Simon Tebbs. “The problem is the menu is only so big and the list of must-have dishes has grown so vast that we must keep them in rotation to try and keep everyone happy!”

Tom Deadman is the current head chef of Bistro Moncur and

admits the style of food hasn’t so much as changed as it has

evolved. “It’s just a case of finding great ingredients and never

stopping looking for the best,” he says. “We aim to keep it fairly

French inspired … and technology has afforded us more advanced techniques, but the basics have stayed the same.”

While French bistro cuisine has remained at the heart of Bistro

Moncur, each chef who has come through the kitchen has played

their own role in keeping the menu fresh. Tebbs says the approach

to them and make them feel comfortable and at home here,”

relevant is always on our minds, especially with so many great

people who want to be here. If they want to be here, so does

is vital for a long-term venue’s continued success. “Staying

eateries opening all the time,” he admits. “Competition can be

tough but it’s great to see the industry getting constant attention.”

he says. “What that means is that you generate a core team of the customer.”

Word-of-mouth advertising via regulars has played a key role

Tebbs attributes marketing as a means to build customer loyalty

in the restaurant’s longevity. “We treasure every one of them and

credible brand identity is incredibly powerful and takes a long

become part of the woodwork, and they tell a story about the

and keep guests coming back. “Establishing a meaningful and time,” he says. “A well-thought-out marketing strategy is also

essential … we allocate resources to PR, digital marketing, and

social media to guarantee that our messages are delivered to the

they have kept us going for decades,” says Tebbs. “They have

bistro. They create so many great memories for us and we help to create theirs and they are of immense importance.”

It’s clear that a multi-pronged approach is the recipe for success,

right audience at the right time.”

but people are head and shoulders above the numbers and even

of Bistro Moncur’s success with the average staff tenure sitting

a positive environment that people gravitate to and ultimately

Just like Jordaan and Zhou, Tebbs says people are at the core

between five and seven years. “We look after our team, we listen 42 | Hospitality

the food on the plate. A smooth-running, happy team creates become invested in supporting in the long run. ■

Compare multiple quotes

Protect your business instantly

Save time and money

SCAN TO COMPARE QUOTES

bizcover.com.au

1300 805 821

*Must be a Qantas Business Rewards member. Maximum of 10,000 Qantas Points earned per policy. Available to new BizCover policy purchase only and not available with any other offer.

See Terms & Conditions at bizcover.com.au/qbr.

The information provided is general only and should not be relied upon as advice. BizCover Pty Ltd (ABN 68 127 707 975; AFSL 501769) © 2023 BizCover. BC2517

EQUIPMENT // Skimmer

Skimmer Remove fat and scoop out food in a cinch with the utensil.

Long, non-slip handle for safe and easy use

Spider skimmers are commonly used in Southeast Asia

Known as jhara in Lifts food from soups,

India and is used

broths, water, and oils

to make fried foods and sweets

Sieve-like scoop or spoon with mesh basket

Size of mesh varies according to application Usually made from stainless steel, wire, or nylon

Mesh basket can be coneshaped or round Skims off foam or congealed food from cooking liquids

44 | Hospitality

Subscribe to the newsletter and follow us on socials to stay up to date on the latest news and trends within the hospitality industry. ht tp s

://

ww

w. ho sp ita

lit

ym ag a

zin e.c om

.au

/su bs

cr

ib e

/

http Follow us on ://w Facebook here ww .fac ebo ok.c om

us on httFollow p:// inst here Instagram agr am .c

om /ho spit alit ym aga z

Follow us on

/Ho

http ://w LinkedIn here ww. link edin .com /

ine

spit alit

com pan y/ho

spit alit

yM aga z

ine

www.hospitalitymagazine.com.au

y-m aga zi

ne

5 MINUTES WITH ... // Sushil Aryal

MY CHILDHOOD IN Nepal was full of celebration

and education on food — it was inspiring to say the

least. Nepal is renowned for its culture and food and there is something to celebrate almost every week.

My mum was the family chef, so I’d always be near

the kitchen pretending to help, but mostly just eating her delicious food.

I moved to Australia when I was 18 to study

engineering but found myself at Brown Sugar in Bondi. Working with Head Chef Neil Gottheiner

while I was a kitchenhand changed my perspective.

He believed in me and gave me the chance and boost of confidence I needed.

Like many aspiring chefs, my goal was to work

in a ‘top’ restaurant. Once I finished my culinary

training, I headed to Melbourne. I ate at Cumulus Inc. and loved it so much I applied for a job then

and there. I got it and left Sydney with one suitcase full of cookbooks and clothes. Cumulus Inc. has a

fantastic training program as well as a progression

plan for each staff member, which really helped my career development.

After that, I worked at Spice Temple, Vue de

Monde, and Brae which were all career highlights. I had the privilege of working with Shannon Bennett

while opening Jardin Tan. Brae taught me discipline and attention to detail as a chef. Dan Hunter

gave me a plate of his famous parsnip and apple dessert to enjoy after a busy service which I still vividly remember.

During 2017 I was lucky enough to travel to North

America, South America, Europe, and Asia. My food highlights included eating tacos in the streets of

Sushil Aryal The Nepalese chef on his time at some of Melbourne’s top eateries and what he has planned at Miss Pearl Bar + Dining.

Tulum; having escargot in the Napa Valley at Thomas Keller’s restaurant; enjoying an 18-course menu at

Central in Lima; and eating a baguette with a slab of cheese for breakfast in Paris.

Now, I am the head chef at Miss Pearl Bar +

Dining in Melbourne. The menu is inspired by

modern Asian cuisine, and we mostly use flavours

from Southeast Asia. Dishes I had during my travels across Thailand, Vietnam, and Japan form a big

part of the menu. The most popular is the crispy

fried eggplant, and I also enjoy making the kingfish sashimi, which is simple and delicious.

We’re planning to renovate the outdoor space at

Miss Pearl which will allow diners to enjoy the à la

carte menu during the balmy Melbourne summer, so I’m very keen to start creating new dishes for that. ■ 46 | Hospitality

TOP PERFORMER TOP PERFORMER TOP PERFORMER TOP PERFORMER TOP PERFORMER TOP PERFORMER TOP PERFORMER With super, long-term performance matters. Hostplus’ Balanced (MySuper) option delivers top performance over 20 years.

Compare Hostplus

SuperRatings Accumulation Fund Crediting Rate Survey – SR50 Balanced (60-76) Index, July 2023. General advice only. Consider the relevant Hostplus PDS and TMD at hostplus.com.au, and your objectives, financial situation and needs, which have not been accounted for. Past performance is not a reliable indicator of future performance.

Issued by Host-Plus Pty Limited ABN 79 008 634 704, AFSL 244392 as trustee for the Hostplus Superannuation Fund (the Fund) ABN 68 657 495 890. HP2395

Culinaire offers distinct features and complete adaptability, making it a reliable choice for the entire Food Service industry. It's used in diverse settings, from stadiums to hotels, and can be tailored to specific needs.

SCAN TO SEE THE RANGE

www.stoddart.com.au info@stoddart.com.au

Heated Food Displays Refrigerated Cooking Dish Handling