Hospitality November 2020

NO.768 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020

CONDIMENT LINES • KEAT LEE • NIGERIAN • 2021 TRENDS

CONTENTS // November/December

Contents NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020

16

Regulars 6 // IN FOCUS The science of food pairing.

12 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more.

14 // PRODUCE It’s zucchini flower season.

16 // BEST PRACTICE A guide to outdoor dining.

22 // COLUMN Little Bao’s May Chow on handling the pandemic in Hong Kong.

2 | Hospitality

30

26 // DRINKS Australia has a long way to go when it comes to tea.

30 // PROFILE Keat Lee is behind one of Melbourne’s buzziest restaurants.

66 // BEHIND THE SCENES The Full Elephant’s fish in the garden.

68 // EQUIPMENT Whip up toasties in minutes with a press.

70 // 5 MINUTES WITH …

Coogee Wine Room’s Bhatia Dheeraj.

44

Features 34 // TRENDS A projection of the food and beverage trends you’ll be seeing in 2021.

44 // NIGERIAN Bringing the multifaceted cuisine to Sydney.

50 // CONDIMENTS Jarred goods are great for customers and operators alike.

58 // FLATBREAD A look at one of the staples of myriad cuisines.

perfect hold, great yield

for more information on our Imitation cream range visit www.bullafoodservice.com.au for sales enquiries please contact your state representative VIC & SA - 0432 404 843 | NSW - 0439 111 442 | QLD - 0438 786 140 | WA - 0430 468 820

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

NOSE-TO-TAIL APPROACH Nik Hill is headlining The Milan Cricket Club pop-up at La Rosa.

My pick is definitely the Pig Mac. @annabellecloros

Forward thinking IT’S HARD TO believe you’re holding

beverage trends and compiled a list

the last print edition of Hospitality for

of the heavy hitters. Outdoor dining

2020 (don’t worry; we’ll be keeping

will be of the utmost importance for

you updated on our digital platforms).

permitted venues across many states,

It’s been quite a year, to say the least.

so we’ve put together a resource list

But the fabric that holds the hospitality

to help.

industry together is stronger than ever.

This issue, we also profile Chef Keat

Operators and staff have been faced

Lee who opened his restaurant less

with some unthinkable challenges, but

than six months before the pandemic

innovation and the drive to keep the

hit, talk to Little Lagos’ Ade Adeniyi

wheels turning has demonstrated the

about Nigerian cuisine and cover all

true resilience of the community. And at

things condiments in the lead up to

long last, restaurants across the country

the festive season.

are able to serve guests on real plates —

I hope you enjoy this issue.

welcome back, Melbourne.

There’s no saying what 2021 will bring, but we’ve combed over food and

LONGRAIN RETURNS The iconic Melbourne restaurant has reopened for trade under Scott Pickett. @hospitalitymagazine

Annabelle Cloros

BEYOND BORDERS I’ve been labouring over old family favourites to help ease COVID-19-induced homesickness. @madeline.woolway

Editor

Follow us @hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au

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4 | Hospitality

IN FOCUS // Food pairing

How Foodpairing works

AROMA MOLECULES, DESCRIPTORS AND TYPES

This dense perceptual web reveals striking

a system for classifying scents based on aroma types and their descriptors. With

To visualise the aromatic links between

molecules, some of which we split into

this ‘language of scent’, we can describe

different odorants, we created a virtual

separate groupings, such as green and

and create visualisations for the aroma

three-dimensional space to model the

vegetable. Altogether, we have identified 14

profiles of all the ingredients and products

connections between all 10,000 aroma

separate categories of aroma types that we

we encounter.

molecules in the Foodpairing database.

use to describe the broad range of scents

AT FOODPAIRING, WE have developed

6 | Hospitality

similarities between certain clusters of

ingredients. These aroma types have been

FRUITY

FLORAL

HERBAL

CARAMEL

NUTTY

SPICY

further divided into subcategories of descriptors according to the base scent of each molecule (to view the entire odour network, visit odournetwork.foodpairing.com).

Every aroma molecule has its own distinct base scent. For example, pineapples contain methyl hexanoate, an odorant with a base scent that smells like the fruit.

After analysing an ingredient, we look at which volatile compounds register above the odour recognition threshold and then identify the base scents of the various aroma molecules so that we can assign

Esters play a key role in the aroma profiles

Lemons, limes, grapefruit and gooseberries

the individual molecules to the appropriate

of many fruits such as strawberries, bananas,

contain mostly citrusy notes, which are also

descriptor groups.

pineapples and other tropical fruits. Depending

present in ingredients like coriander seeds,

on the concentration, lactones can have a

lemongrass and lemon balm.

base scent of an aroma molecule: when we

peachy or coconut smell and are found in fruits,

• Citrus, grapefruit, lemon, orange

use the label ‘pineapple’ as a descriptor,

milk, cheeses and other dairy products.

it means that all the molecules within that

• Apple, banana, berry, coconut, fruity, grape,

descriptor group have a distinct pineapple

peach, pineapple, tropical

The descriptor labels tell us about the

smell. Altogether we have identified a total of 10,000 aroma molecules that we have

Green smells range from cucumber-ish to fatty (like olive oil), from freshly mowed grass to waxy (like orange peel), depending

Beta-damascenone, beta-ionone and

on the concentration of aldehydes. Milled

classified into 14 different aroma types

(Z)-1,5-octadien- 3-one are responsible for

grains also contain green volatile compounds

and 70 descriptors in the Foodpairing

the intoxicating fragrances of roses, violets

that smell like oat flakes, while epoxides give

database. This classification allows us to

and geraniums, while also lending their

seaweed a metallic note.

make a visualisation of the flavour profile

floral notes to ingredients like apples, pears,

• Cucumber, fatty, grass, green, oat flakes, waxy

of an analysed ingredient, across all

raspberries and sweet potatoes.

product groups.

• Floral, geranium, honey, rose, violet

Pyrazines, 1-octen-3-one and methianol are largely responsible for the vegetal odours

THE FOODPAIRING METHODOLOGY

Menthol and thymol give fresh mint and

of bell peppers, mushrooms and potatoes.

The premise that ingredients that share the

thyme their distinct herbal notes.

Alliums and brassicas contain sulphurous

same key defining aroma molecules taste

• Herbal, mint, thyme

volatile compounds. Cooking creates new

good together is the scientific basis of our creative methodology. Any ingredients that

sulphurous, potato- and mushroom-scented Compounds like furaneol, maltol and

aroma molecules.

share a subset of aroma molecules will have

sotolon are charactertised by the sweet

• Bell pepper, cabbage, celery, garlic,

some overlap, and therefore combine well.

caramellic smell of caramelised sugar and

mushroom, onion, potato

The science of Foodpairing begins with an aroma analysis of an ingredient or product.

maple syrup.

• Caramel, maple

The pairing selections generated from these profiles are based on a selection of key

The Maillard reaction causes new volatile compounds to form that smell roasted or

Benzaldehyde is the character impact

popcorn-like. Some roasted descriptors

odorants with concentrations high enough so

compound in almond extract, while the

smell malty or coffee-like, whereas

that we can perceive them.

intoxicatingly sweet hay-like fragrance of

pyrazines and geosmin have more of an

tonka beans comes from coumarin. Ketones

earthy scent.

and pairing grids, which serve as visual

provide hazelnuts with their distinctive smell.

• Coffee, earthy, fried, malty, popcorn, roasted

references for the key components that

• Hazelnut, nutty, tonka

In the book, you will find aroma wheels

characterize an ingredient’s aroma profile.

Some ingredients contain woody-scented Many of the warm notes in spices come

terpenes and pinenes (pine). Using wood

Foodpairing’s aroma types

from aroma molecules like cinnamaldehyde,

to grill meat, fish or any other ingredients

Each of the ingredients featured in this book

cuminaldehyde, eugenol (cloves) and vanillin.

will impart the same woody, smoky flavours,

is classified and described according to our

Camphor and estragole (anise) offer more

whereas the process of cold-smoking fish

system of 70 aroma descriptors, which are

refreshing notes.

or meats infuses their flesh with phenolic

grouped into 14 key aroma types, ranging

• Anise, camphor, cinnamon, clove, cumin,

compounds.

from fruity to chemical.

pungent, spicy, vanilla

• Balsamic, phenolic, pine, smoky, woody November/December 2020 | 7

IN FOCUS // Food pairing

found in the aroma profiles of different

IN FOCUS // Food pairing

CITRUS

GREEN

VEGETABLE

ANIMAL

ROASTED

WOODY

CHEESY

CHEMICAL

Cream, butter and ripe cheeses all contain cheesy notes. Vinegars and fermented dairy

CONTRASTING TEXTURES

products like yoghurt, buttermilk and sour cream contain other cheesy and acidic

The elements of a dish

volatile compounds.

Balancing aromas, tastes and

• Acidic, buttery, cheesy, creamy

textures adds depth and dimension to your dishes.

Strong animal-like odours are associated with meat-based stocks and ingredients like venison or fish. Liver contains the aroma

Complement aromas

molecule indole, which can smell faecal, earthy, phenolic, perfumy or even floral.

Skatole has a similar animal-like odour, described as smelling faecal or like a civet. liking

• Animal, fishy, meaty Burnt, musty, petroleum, soapy and solvent (as in paint or glue) are some of the

Perceived complexity

descriptors used to describe the undesirable

perceived complexity

off-odours that develop as a result of improper storage or poor packaging.

• Burnt, dusty, petroleum, soapy, solvent

FROM PAIRING INGREDIENTS TO DELICIOUS DISHES

after repeated exposure

Aromatic complexity

first exposure

Foodpairing makes it easy to discover new ingredient pairings based on their aromatic matches, but that is not all there is to creating tantalising dishes that will pique your palate. What can you do to take your recipes to the next level? As you make

Perceiving complexity

Optimising complexity

your selections, don’t forget to factor in

The diagram above charts the correlation

When you are learning to work with aromas,

taste and texture. Balancing the elements

between the perceived complexity of a dish

start with no more than five ingredients —

of flavour (aroma), taste and texture will

and a person’s affinity for that dish based on

add interesting depth and dimension to

hedonic variables like aroma, flavour, taste,

everything we eat or drink. Think about it:

your dishes.

We are sensitive to the textures of

texture and appearance. We can see that

the dishes we find appealing often include

Striking the right balance may sound

most people respond positively to added

a variety of textures, whereas dishes that

simple in theory, but it is often the most

complexity, but only up to a certain point.

lack texture can become boring after just

difficult part of the job when you are in

Their interest tends to wane once too many

a few bites. Our team has identified sixty

the kitchen.

elements begin to overcomplicate a dish.

different types of textures that we have

8 | Hospitality

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IN FOCUS // Food pairing

categorized into two main groups: soft and

those in Group D. But as Group E shows,

Group C shows a set of very similar

crunchy/crispy.

seemingly unrelated elements can form a

ingredients, such as different varieties of

coherent whole.

dark chocolate that are defined by the

The trick is to include at least one contrasting texture from each of these categories to give your dish dimension.

Combinations like chips and guacamole,

same roasted, caramellic and nutty aroma A

molecules. In contrast, Group D shows a A

French fries with ketchup or a silky chocolate mousse served with a cookie or crumble are

chocolate, anise, and peanuts, each of which B

B

classic examples of our natural affinity for C C

Without getting too carried away, try

D

Groups D and E share the same components but in different configurations, which goes to

E

to incorporate at least two of the five contrasting tastes — sweet, salty, sour,

Finally, Group E represents the traditional Mexican dish, mole de pollo. Note that

D

Contrasting tastes

has a markedly different aroma profile from the rest.

contrasting pairings of soft foods and foods with crispy or crunchy textures.

set of ingredients such as chicken, chilli,

show that personal preferences and cultural backgrounds may cause one

E

bitter and umami — to balance your dishes and drinks. In the diagram to the right,

this makes it easier to maintain balance as

the arrows indicate which tastes work

you refine your pairings. In addition to your

to counterbalance one another. Salt, for

choice of ingredients and the personal or

example, can be used to reduce bitter

cultural preferences of your diners, optimising

tastes. That is why some chocolate chip

complexity is determined by the following

cookie recipes call for a pinch of salt

elements: the total number of different

to balance the bitterness of the dark

aroma molecules present in a recipe; the

chocolate. Salt also works to balance

type of aroma types and descriptors each

sweetness, as in sea salt caramel.

ingredient contributes to a dish, and whether

Following the same principle, you can

which taste molecules are also present. The

adding a sour contrasting element.

more distinguishable elements stand out in

use will register some sort of effect on the trigeminal nerve, whether it is a tactile sensation, temperature-related,

salty alcohol

pungency

your dish, the more complex it becomes.

To illustrate what we mean by complexity, let’s refer to graphics A to E.

for example, adding umami enhances the sweetness of a dish

Group A shows three ingredients that share strong aromatic links. Chocolate,

– reduces

a cooling sensation or the mild burn of

caramel and coffee all contain roasted,

for example, adding

alcohol. As you create your dish, be sure

caramellic and nutty notes. A dessert

fat reduces the taste of alcohol

to take into account these sensations as

made using these ingredients would be

they will all have some bearing on the

an example of what we call ‘overtoning’,

= balances

gastrophysical experience.

in which variations of similar-smelling

for example, sweet and umami tastes

ingredients result in a more subtle complexity

balance each other

Balancing contrasting tastes

than combining chocolate with the fruity,

Adding a contrasting taste lets you reduce

citrus and floral notes of raspberries would.

or balance the impact of an element of

Overtoning allows us to incorporate plenty

your dish.

of herbs, spices or other closely related

contrast textures

umami

+ enhances

astringency, fattiness, pungency, numbness,

sweet

bitter

they share any similarities; in addition to

reduce the intensity of a sweet dessert by Remember that every ingredient you

fat

person to perceive the complexity of a dish very differently from another.

The most successful Foodpairings strike

ingredients in a dish without it turning into a

a carefully measured balance between

cacophony of contrasting elements.

complexity and coherence. As humans, we

But say we add almonds and basil to

crave variety, yet we also seek out familiar

our chocolate dessert: suddenly, Group B

elements or structures that help us make

becomes more complex, as we now have five

sense of novel experiences. This aesthetic

contrasting ingredients to balance in terms

principle of ‘unity-in-variety,’ as coined by

ingredients you use — aromatic complexity

of taste and texture. One way to get around

the psychologist Daniel Berlyne, satisfies

comes together in various forms on the plate.

the issue of too many items overcrowding

our curiosity and desire for learning while

Your ingredients can have many aroma

the plate is to limit yourself to just a few

also allowing the disparate elements

molecules in common like those in Group

ingredients that offer a diverse range of

to be efficiently processed in ways we

C, or be very different from each other, like

contrasting profiles.

deem pleasurable. ■

contrast tastes It is not just about the number of different

10 | Hospitality

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, products and more.

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

The Everleigh Bottling Co. introduces spritzed cocktails Melbourne’s Everleigh Bottling Co. has launched a new range

and have been designed to

The Star Sydney expands dining offering

chill and drink straight from

Italian restaurant Cucina Porto is set to open its doors on 25

the bottle. “Every step in

November. It’s the first of a number of new openings from The Star

the preparation of making

Sydney in Pyrmont, which is transforming former retail outlets into

and serving a cocktail has

hospitality venues in a $500 million capital works investment program.

been considered to offer

The venue is located opposite the Sydney Lyric Theatre and is headed

consistency and quality above

up by Martino Pulito. The chef joins after time at Morrison Bar & Oyster

all else,” says co-owner

Room and has designed a menu with influences from the south of Italy.

Michael Madrusan. The drinks

A range of Italian snacks will be on offer alongside pizzas and pastas.

are available in four packs for

The drinks list will showcase a ‘Negroni progression menu’ and wines

$48. everleighbottling.com

from Australia and Italy. thestar.com.au

just in time for summer. The Americano and the French 75 are first off the spritz line

LILYMU opens in Parramatta Square Nour, Cuckoo Callay and Henrietta restaurateur Ibby Moubadder has expanded his hospitality portfolio with the launch of LILYMU in Parramatta Square. Former Mr Wong chef Brendan Fong is heading up the kitchen and has curated a menu influenced by Chinese and South East Asian cuisines. Dishes include tom yum prawn dumplings, XO pippies with kaffir lime and scampi red curry with betel levels. The venue has a full-service bar and room for 160 guests across a dining room, outdoor space and private dining room. lilymu.com

Morning Market finds permanent home Andrew McConnell’s Trader House restaurant group has added to its Melbourne portfolio with grocery concept Morning Market. The venue initially launched as a pop-up under the moniker Marion Grocer at Marion wine bar in March, with positive customer support leading to a permanent location two doors down at 59 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy.

Morning Market’s offering encompasses bread and pastries from Baker Bleu, Single O coffee, salads and sandwiches alongside fresh produce, dairy and specialty pantry essentials. The concept also stocks fresh local flowers and homewares. morning.market 12 | Hospitality

Melbourne gelataria Piccolina will open two locations in the CBD. Spearheaded by owner Sandra Foti, the new additions are slated to open in December and are located on Degraves Street and Hardware Lane. The Degraves venue will be a hole in the wall while Hardware Lane will offer a more expansive experience for visitors, but both will offer indoor and outdoor seating. “We are excited to bring our offering to the CBD, while partaking in the revival of it,” says Foti.

Photography by Kris Paulsen

The new go-to for cocktails Spirited: Cocktails from Around the World Adrienne Stillman Phaidon; $69.95 Sommelier and writer Adrienne Stillman has penned a new book which combines more than 610 cocktail recipes with essays on everything from origin stories and trending cocktails to classic bartending techniques. Recipes are split into refreshing, sours, spirit-forward, tiki and tropical, coffee and dessert and punches. Essential equipment, garnishes, syrups and cordials are also covered, with the book also featuring more than 200 photographs.

Gin bar opens in Hobart Forty Spotted will open its doors in late November, offering guests the opportunity to try some of the world’s best gins. Forty Spotted’s own gin will be on offer along with 20 other options from countries including Scotland, Northern Ireland, Germany and Australia. The venue is now hosting blending workshops with the bar serving up an extensive cocktail list and a snacks menu. ginbarhobart.com

Empirical launches RTD spirits in Australia Copenhagen distillery Empirical is behind two new ready-to-drink beverages dubbed Can 01 and Can 02.

The drinks (which are not beer, cider or cocktail) are made with a base spirit crafted from beet molasses and Belgian Saison yeast. 01 features milk oolong, toasted birch, gooseberry, Douglas fir and pomelo zest with 02 combining sour cherry with blackcurrant bud, walnut wood, young pinecone and maqaw pepper.

The lightly carbonated drinks are priced at $60 for four cans and are available through select venues and online retailer DRNKS. us.empirical.co November/December 2020 | 13

NEWS // Entrée

Piccolina secures two new sites

PRODUCE // Zucchini flowers

The colour of the flowers vary from Female flowers produce

yellow to orange

a baby zucchini

Male blossoms grow In season from

on a stem and are

spring until summer

ready to harvest first

Female blossoms grow closer to the centre of the plant

Zucchini flowers Stuffed, fried or eaten raw, the green and gold blossoms are one of the fruits of summer.

Origins

Mexico and the US, and are

the plant for pollination. Male

taste reminiscent of zucchini

Zucchini flowers are part of the

especially popular in Italy,

flowers should be cut behind

with a slight nutty flavour.

Cucurbita pepo species from

Spain, Greece and Turkey.

the flower, leaving around 1 inch

of the oldest domesticated

Growth and harvest

blossoms should be cut at

Culinary applications and storage

species and can be traced

The plants require full sun and

the base.

The flowers perish easily and

back thousands of years. There

seeds should be planted in rich

is discussion with regards

soil at least one metre apart.

During the early stages, the

Flavour profile and appearance

after harvesting. To maximise

to its exact origins, but it’s believed to have come from

plants require regular watering.

Male zucchini flowers have a

paper towel and store in an air-

the Americas before seeds

Flowers are in season from

green stem and female flowers

tight container in the fridge. The

were taken to Europe. Zucchini

spring until summer and should

produce a small zucchini fruit,

blossoms are incredibly versatile

flowers are also known as

be harvested by hand. Male

which is also green. Both grow a

and can be eaten raw in salads,

courgette flowers or squash

zucchini flowers can be picked

flower, which varies from yellow

stuffed with ricotta and lemon

blossoms. They are primarily

once the flowers open; ensure

to vibrant orange in colour. The

zest and deep-fried or drizzled

grown in Europe, Australia,

a few male flowers are left on

blossoms are soft and have a

in oil and baked in the oven. ■

the genus Cucurbita. It is one

14 | Hospitality

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should be used within one day lifespan, cover with a damp

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BEST PRACTICE // Outdoor dining

Take it outside While Melbourne venues have been forced to embrace outdoor dining, operators in other states and territories could benefit from alfresco seating, too.

THE COVID-19 PANDEMIC

in order to meet safety and

cities and towns, with venues

and City of Sydney, and state

has undoubtedly challenged

business needs.

moving seating onto footpaths,

governments have developed

and in some cases, car parking

programs designed to support

hospitality operators across

It’s tough to predict what

the country, particularly those

the industry will look like in

spaces immediately outside

businesses that wish to apply

in Victoria, who have endured

the next six to 12 months. But

their businesses.

for outdoor dining permits. In

extended shutdowns. And

one thing’s for sure — alfresco

Here, Hospitality shares a few

the period of adaption is far

dining is set to finally make its

tips to help operators transition

applying for permits easier; in

from over. As our governments

mark on the Australian dining

to outdoor service.

others they provide grants to

continue to develop new

landscape, with local and state

regulatory frameworks to keep

governments moving to expand

COVID-19 in check, restaurants,

outdoor dining.

cafés, bars, pubs and clubs will need to update their models 16 | Hospitality

some cases, programs make

help businesses cover the cost of

Check what support is available

outdoor furniture.

Expanded outdoor dining

A number of local councils,

outdoor dining spaces are high

will change the shape of many

including City of Melbourne

quality and are inviting,” says

“It’s important that the

BEST PRACTICE // Outdoor dining City of Melbourne CEO Justin

earmarked precincts can suggest

Hanney. “To achieve this, we will

alternative locations.

support businesses to install bollards, planters and barriers.

Businesses will be responsible for furniture such as chairs and tables and fast grants are available to assist cash-

“It’s important that the outdoor dining spaces are high quality and are inviting.”

– Justin Hanney

strapped traders.”

Create a space that’s yours The alfresco experience should mimic eating in a restaurant, not a food festival. Rope, plastic or wooden barriers will help

City of Sydney Lord Mayor

define your outdoor dining area

Clover Moore said the city

Invest in the right furniture

La Niña conditions mean the

and keep diners separate from

has been working towards the

Consider practicality and cost

weather could be cooler (and

passersby. Everything that’s on

creation of a 24-hour alfresco

as well as aesthetic. Aluminium

wetter) than usual this summer

offer indoors should be available

city for more than 10 years. “By

furniture is light-weight, easy to

across much of the country.

outside — make sure tables are

removing fees and red tape

clean and relatively weather-

Even if things heat up for a few

set with the same care and

and working with businesses

proof, but wicker furniture with

months, you’ll be prepared for

assign staff members to manage

to find as many outdoor dining

cushions might be the best

next winter.

different zones.

opportunities as possible, we’re

option when it comes to looks —

supporting COVID-19 recovery

you’ll just need a plan in place

while realising our vision of an

for wet conditions.

Create atmosphere with neighbouring businesses

Don’t forget cleaning protocols

alfresco city,” she says.

Both City of Melbourne and City

Outdoor dining has been

in a permanent outdoor dining

of Sydney are developing outdoor

touted as a way to mitigate the

what regulations apply to

set up, retractable awnings are a

dining precincts. Neighbouring

spread of COVID-19. However,

outdoor dining with their state

good option. Otherwise, outdoor

businesses are encouraged

venues still need to ensure

liquor and gaming authority

umbrellas come in a range of

to work together to take over

physical distancing measures

— not every jurisdiction has

styles and sizes.

footpaths, laneways and even

are in place, follow square

street space in some cases.

metreage rules and clean down

Operators who aren’t in already-

touchpoints consistently. ■

Operators should also check

relaxed rules around outdoor dining permits.

18 | Hospitality

For venues that want to invest

Last but not least, look into heating options. The predicted

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COLUMN // May Chow

Lessons learned The Hong Kong chef and restaurateur on resilience, adjusting and surviving.

WORDS May Chow THE PANDEMIC HIT us in

I’ve learned a lot about business

sending staff home or we’re

late-February. We had a lot of

people, our highs are maximum

and being resilient. I had to

saving labour costs because we

COVID-19 measures, but luckily

100 cases. We hit our third

make really difficult decisions

are trying to survive another day;

we were never 100 per cent

wave in July, which led to

[and] we laid off more than

another month.

in lockdown; we were always

more stringent measures.

50 per cent of our staff. We’ve

operating restaurants. There

The government told us to

kept our best team members

Hong Kong as a restaurant

was a lot of fear in the public,

completely close down, leading

and we’re strong and we’re

industry is inherently a strong

so in February, our business

to closing at 6pm, then 10pm

in it together. But we need

community. We had protests

was only at 30 per cent of what

and now midnight. We’re back to

to break even to be creative.

starting from last year and in

it originally was. We’re very

60–70 per cent of what we were.

Many years ago, we were lucky

December, I had to close Happy

lucky because we had previous

In some ways, we have survived,

to be in an environment where

Paradise in the short term

experience with SARS and avian

but it has been a rollercoaster

creativity came first. Now if the

because we had zero business if

flus, so wearing masks and

and we expect it to continue for

government says something

protests were happening. By the

being sanitary was implemented

a while.

is happening today, I adjust

time February came, we were

my staffing the day of. We’re

like, ‘What is going on?’

way back.

22 | Hospitality

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COLUMN // May Chow

We started a group called Save Hong Kong F&B because the issues were out of our hands. I had colleagues who had difficulty discussing lease issues with landlords because

is. Everything is an ecosystem

“What makes people relevant is when they can build something timeless.”

they weren’t willing to give

and we need to strengthen it to survive and be more resilient to challenges like this.

In Hong Kong, people still want to celebrate and are so desperate

concessions. People couldn’t

to go out. I think people still

survive and we needed a

So if rent is adjusted and we get

I want us to have jobs for the

really enjoy and love food — the

voice. We’re speaking to the

enough support, it will be much

long term. In the short term, they

pandemic doesn’t kill that. I

government, raising awareness

better. I feel bad for the bar side

might not have full pay, but at

don’t think the future is just

in the community and helping

of things because they’ve been

least we can go through it and

takeaway, but we might need to

each other navigate through the

shut for months at this point.

survive together.

consider 30 per cent takeaway

hard times.

We’ve received a fairly

just to protect ourselves.

It all comes down to money;

There’s a lot we can learn from

reasonable amount of support

I own my own restaurant and

COVID-19. There are thin margins

talent and take the downtime.

from the government; they’ve

we have to pay staff, rent and

in food; it’s labour-intense and

I’ve learned so much about

given us subsidies and support

expenses. In order to survive

the technology is outdated. It’s

costing, Excel sheets and things

for staff. But the worry is we’re

for a year or two of no or low

a great time to look at things

I did not need to answer to six

not out of it in the long run, so

income, we need to be vigilant

like technology; is your POS up

years ago. You really want to

a lot of people are fearful that

about saving. I had to have

to date? What makes people

be able to defend yourself.

without more subsidies, it’s hard

conversations with staff and

relevant is when they can build

Just cooking a delicious meal

to maintain. The major issue is

[talk about situations] where

something timeless. I always

isn’t good enough; you have to

support from landlords. Hong

we might not be able to pay full

think, ‘Can this last for 20

pay your staff. Take courses on

Kong is relying on local diners —

salary on some days if we can’t

years?’ Relevance isn’t being

management, leadership and

local diners still cover 60–70 per

open. Everyone has their own

the hottest item; it’s about being

equip yourself with knowledge. ■

cent — but we’re paying some

livelihoods to support, but I had

long lasting. The ones that aren’t

of the highest rents in the world.

to have honest conversations.

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Rent can be $50,000-80,000

I could pay 70 or 80 per cent

this time because it’s not just

Meets Hope; part of the 50 Best

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depending on the month, but

about how creative one dish

for Recovery summit.

24 | Hospitality

It’s important to diversify your

May Chow in conversation

DRINKS // Tea culture

Steeped in history Australia is known for its coffee culture — can we catch up to the rest of the world when it comes to tea?

WORDS Madeline Woolway

WHEN STEEPED IN hot or cold water,

It’s this tea-drinking culture that Cathy

the cured leaves of Camellia sinensis make

Zhang hopes will become mainstream

consumed beverages globally. While coffee

teahouses will serve as a place for

an infusion that’s become one of the most is king in Australia, tea reigns supreme

in many regions, from its point of origin where East Asia meets South and up

in Australia, too. But in her ideal future, consumers to learn more about the history and science of tea.

“In China, tea is so integrated with

As more brands work to capture the

attention of younger consumers, new

teahouses are offering modern tea drinks.

Zhang’s own tea brand Ms. Cattea is a

blend of the two, both honouring tradition and capturing a new audience.

Zhang founded Ms. Cattea in Sydney

into Europe.

our lives; we’ve been drinking tea since

in 2012 as a roving educational concept,

of preparations: white, black, green and

serious tea ceremony way, but it’s very

shop in Potts Point in late-2019. Zhang has

Its history is as varied as its multitude

oolong. In China, teahouses continue

to hold significant cultural cache, with

people using them as spaces to socialise or conduct business.

26 | Hospitality

we were kids — maybe not in a very

common [for people to go to teahouses],” says Zhang. “Teahouses in China are still

quite traditional. People will make tea in gongfu style.”

before opening a bricks and mortar tea

been studying tea since 2002 and has a

degree in tea science from the South China Agricultural University.

“I want to bring authentic tea culture to

cherish the moment because it will disappear so quickly.”

– Cathy Zhang Australia,” says Zhang. “I come from China, but

varieties of tea. That’s not to mention

too — there’s Korean, Japanese, Indian and

further two years spent staying with farmers on

I recognise tea culture from around the world,

European culture which are also worth sharing.”

At Ms. Cattea, Zhang aims to provide an

environment for people to drink tea and learn about different tea cultures as well as the

differences across provinces. Then, there’s a

three mountains, harvesting and making tea, which is then analysed in the lab to learn its chemical composition.

Unsurprisingly, there’s very little opportunity

history, origins and best preparation practices

to share this knowledge with consumers in-

beginning and build people’s interest, so they

classes, like a workshop, I wouldn’t be able to

for a variety of teas. “I want to start from the

can appreciate [specialty teas] more,” she says.

The first two years in a four-year tea

science degree at the South China Agricultural University is spent studying the basics:

categories of tea and tea culture in China.

There are thousands of iterations of both. All

depth. “Unless we’re doing a tea course or

share that much,” says Zhang. “For the average consumer, I try to give them some interesting facts about the tea they’re drinking, so they

connect with that tea without burdening them too much.”

tea comes from the same species, Camellia

Here in Australia, Zhang has noted one trend

production methods result in uncountable

content every single day,” she says. “People are

sinensis, but different farming, harvesting and

in particular. “I get asked about caffeine

November/December 2020 | 27

DRINKS // Tea culture

“That’s what we call the spirit of tea — you should

DRINKS // Tea culture

For the best brew, tea leaves should have ample space to bloom while steeping Zhang recommends using a deep infuser to steep tea Mesh ball strainers and bags pack tea too tightly Supermarket tea bags are often filled with low-grade tea or leftover dust

concerned about how they’ll sleep. They’ll

contribute different effects to our bodies.

than white or green tea.”

cold easily — like young women who

concerns, too, from bolstering the immune

our body — should probably not drink

ask whether black tea has more caffeine

There are questions about other health

system to improving skin. The answer?

There’s a tea for everything. “We have

tea for morning, day and evening,” says

“Green tea is cooler, so people who get

have hands and feet that get colder than too much green tea. It won’t help with blood circulation.”

Zhang. “We have tea for diabetes, weight

There’s a third effect — the mental state.

provinces will have a different tea

especially when some level of ceremony

control and indigestion and different for each.”

Zhang is talking about pure tea alone,

not the herbal varieties. Again — it’s

all the same plant, but the fresh leaves are harvested with different methods and processed differently to result in

different teas with different characteristics and attributes.

“Green tea, white tea, oolong and black

come from the same plant,” explains

Zhang. “We change the character of the tea [through production methods] and they

Drinking tea can be a therapeutic pursuit, is involved. It’s an important piece of

the puzzle for Zhang, and one she hopes will come to the fore as tea culture in Australia evolves.

“I want to start from the beginning and build people’s interest, so they can appreciate [specialty teas] more.”

– Cathy Zhang

“Eventually, I want people to appreciate

each moment with the tea they are

drinking,” she says. “I think sometimes people just want the health benefits without thinking too much of the spiritual side.

“For people who come to do a tea

ceremony and tea experience with me, I

always want to remind them that you only get to drink each cup of tea once. Even if

you come in again and drink the same [type of] tea, it will be different — I’ll make it

differently because I’ll be a different person.

Even the three teaspoons I use might

have less or more tea leaves or some tea

will have smaller leaves and some bigger, it will never be 100 per cent the same.

That’s what we call the spirit of tea — you should cherish the moment because it will disappear so quickly.”

For now, Zhang would be happy to see

more venues considering their tea offering.

Despite the thousands of years of history

and science behind the aromatic beverage,

it still has plenty of potential to be explored.

“Good-quality tea can be drunk hot in a

traditional way or cold in a more fun way,” says Zhang. “I’ve created tea menus for

high-end restaurants and bars to make tea cocktails. You can batch brew and serve

plain without alcohol or mix with alcohol and serve as a cocktail.”

And, while it might mean more

competition for Ms. Cattea, Zhang hopes

more teashops will open around Australia: “I wouldn’t see [it] as competition,” she

says. “I would see it as a good extension of the market. If it’s more accessible, people will learn more about tea.” ■ 28 | Hospitality

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PROFILE // Keat Lee

30 | Hospitality

PROFILE // Keat Lee

Keat Lee Lagoon Dining was in business for less than six months when COVID-19 hit. But Keat Lee and his business partners have hung on during one of the most turbulent years the industry has ever faced.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Nikki To

LAGOON DINING HAD a flying start when

before taking some time off to globetrot. “I

What happened next was entirely

Helmed by Ezard alums Keat Lee, Ned

East Asia and then I came back to Australia

opening a restaurant after a relatively

it debuted in Melbourne last November.

Trumble and Chris Lerch, there was

plenty of buzz around the South-East

went around Europe and through Southand ended up at Longsong,” says Lee.

The young chef learned the foundations

Asian eatery in Carlton — and for good

of fine dining under Teage Ezard, but

were all words used to describe the dining

challenge. The two venues are apples

reason. “Elegant”, “relevant” and “bold”

experience, and the eatery was promptly

dubbed one of the hottest tickets in town.

But the buzz subsided in March

when restaurants around the country

collectively closed their doors. Chef Keat Lee talks to Hospitality about switching up his career, receiving a phone call

that resulted in a restaurant and how the venue has used recent months

as an opportunity to try something a little different.

Keat Lee was supposed to be an

audiologist. He moved to Melbourne

Longsong presented an entirely new

and oranges, but the lessons learned

stuck with Lee. “Working under Jarrod [Di Blasi] and Teage instils a strong

work ethic in you — you need to work

faster and smarter and think about every little detail,” he says. “Longsong was

a firm yes. Lee commenced a different

form of study at William Angliss Institute and it wasn’t long before he secured an

apprenticeship at the now-shuttered Ezard.

“I was recommended by a friend who said it was a good place to learn,” says Lee.

“Fine dining appealed to me at the time and it really grew on me.”

Lee spent the next two and a half years

balancing his culinary studies with working at Ezard, completing all requirements

in 2016. He stayed on at the Melbourne

institute as sous chef for the next two years

in this case. “I worked with my current business partners, Ned [Trumble] and

Chris [Lerch], at Ezard,” says Lee. “Ned was an apprentice and Chris was in

front of house. We formed a strong bond and friendship inside and outside of

work and that naturally progressed to opening something.”

Co-founding a restaurant just a few

I hadn’t done before. To learn that aspect

would soon become Lagoon was too good

using fire and coal, which was something of cooking was hard at first, but there’s a simplicity in cooking over fire; it’s

real cooking, if you know what I mean.

There’s no room for error with fire.”

necessarily the plan for Lee, but what

to pass on. “I didn’t see it happening so fast, but we had an idea and thought about some concepts and Lagoon

transpired from there,” says the chef.

Ezard regular Susan Wyles also joined as a business partner and the team secured

a site on Lygon Street that had a previous

“I realised it wasn’t what I was fully

kitchen work,” says Lee. The answer was

opportunity came knocking; or calling,

years into his cooking career wasn’t

Masters, but his heart just wasn’t in it.

jobs to see whether I wanted to pursue

short time in the industry — but

an entirely different method of cookery

around a decade ago to complete his

interested in, so I worked some kitchen

unexpected. Lee wasn’t planning on

life as a food store.

“We had a really strong start and everything was going really well — and then COVID –19 happened.”

– Keat Lee

The thing about Lagoon’s culinary

direction is that it’s not exclusive to a

particular cuisine. Sure, it learns towards South-East Asian flavours, but the

foundation of the restaurant is built on

Chinese culinary traditions. A good-times

atmosphere is equally as important; which is helped along by the interior scheme.

“It’s a more polished and refined result

than what we intended, but it’s the design of the restaurant and the way the food developed,” says Lee.

And good times were definitely had

when Lagoon swung the doors open in

November 2019. “We had a really strong November/December 2020 | 31

PROFILE // Keat Lee The restaurant reopened with an à la carte menu

Curries have been one of the top togo sellers

Lee originally studied audiology before changing his career

Lagoon launched a condiment line during lockdown

“It’s been good to see how Lagoon and other restaurants have used the time to adapt, diversify and try to look at start and everything was going really well

It’s been a testing time for the industry,

— and then COVID-19 happened,” says Lee.

but also a chance to test new concepts

before the first lockdown started, which

“We started selling food in IGA and small

The restaurant began offering takeaway meant the team had the chance to test

different to-go models before dine in was shut down. “We thought we’d change things up and launched ready-to-eat

takeaway meals, which is what we’ve

focused on,” says Lee. The dishes aren’t

necessarily what you’d find on Lagoon’s

regular menu, but comfort has very much

and explore different revenue streams.

grocers as well as though Co-Lab Pantry,” says Lee. “In a way, it’s been good to see how Lagoon and other restaurants have used the time to adapt, diversify and

try to look at [the situation] in a more

positive manner,” says Lee. “But it’s been very hard and a bit of a shock.”

been at the forefront of the offering. “It

Lee said Lagoon would resume dine-in

like to eat at home and dishes that were

state government, and the venue has since

was about thinking about what people approachable,” says the chef. “Curries

have been selling really well and a lot of the vegan dishes.”

Lagoon also launched a condiment

line which includes everything from hot sauce to garlic oil, XO sauce, spiced salt

and the venue’s signature ‘strange flavour dressing’. “The condiments are doing

really well and we will keep doing them,” says Lee. “It will be interesting to see

what will happen when all this finishes up and if restaurants will continue to

do the same things or operate solely as normal restaurants.”

32 | Hospitality

trade as soon as it was permitted by the

served customers in the restaurant for the first time since July. The team had two

days to prepare for normalcy once again

and decided to run with an à la carte menu with crowd favourites and some new faces.

It’s been a long few months for the new kids on the block, but the team are just grateful to be back. “We were really

excited to be able to serve customers again and put some food back on plates,” says Lee. “It was honestly such a relief to get back into the groove of things.”

It’s safe to say Lagoon Dining has

definitely got its groove back. ■

[the situation] in a more positive manner.” – Keat Lee

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November, Atiyah is set to transform the fast

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damage produced by our carbon footprint.

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“We pride ourselves on being at the

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region. The venue is almost entirely self-

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the sourcing of raw materials to ethical

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End consumers are increasingly

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documentaries like A Life on Our Planet and

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Ben Armstrong. “Building communities

approach to the foodservice industry is incredibly exciting, and one that we believe 34 | Hospitality

Strong partnerships such as these set a new standard and are essential to drive

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FEATURE // Trends

Trends

As we leave 2020 behind, here are the trends forecasted to be big next year.

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Takeaway, delivery and at-home meal kits

According to IBISWorld, the fast food and takeaway foodservices market size, measured by revenue, is $16.9 billion in 2020.

Operators are paying special attention to takeaway menus after enforced restaurant shutdowns, and venues have had great

success with takeaway food and drink that provide an element of comfort to customers, with pasta dishes, charcuterie and slow-roasted meats all proving to be winners.

Many operators have also delved into the meal-kit world, with

Merivale launching an At Home offering which sees customers

finish off dishes from restaurants including Mr. Wong, Fred’s and Totti’s. The program has continued, despite restaurants in New South Wales now seating customers per spacing rules.

Delivery has experienced a boom across the country. More

than 4 million Australians use delivery services to order food

and the industry has grown by 81.1 per cent between 2015 and 2020. Uber Eats, Deliveroo and Menu Log continue to lead the

market, with new player DoorDash launching earlier in the year.

Many operators have chosen to keep delivery in-house to skip commission fees, using existing staff to complete orders.

Mr. Wong at home

36 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Trends

Set menus

Limited or set menus put the power in

the operator’s hands and provide myriad benefits — especially during a time

where every dollar counts. The past few months have seen many venues cut à la carte menus and instead provide a

fixed offering. Operators are able to keep produce orders lean, know how much

revenue they’ll be pulling in per head and maximise productivity in the kitchen.

When Hartsyard in Sydney’s Enmore

reopened for dine-in trade, the team

ran with an $88 tasting menu and later

introduced a small à la carte offering as dine-in numbers increased. On the flip

side, Tequila on York ran a one-month popup with an eight-dish set menu.

Tequila on York's set menu

Product ranges

Some venues have dabbled in creating products during holiday seasons, but many are now seeing the value in creating a core line available all year round. Whether it’s jams, chutneys, pickles or relishes, a product range is a great value-add

for customers looking to support local business. Better yet,

advertise the products on your menu and incorporate them

into dishes so guests can try before they buy. Fermented and

pickled products can help reduce kitchen wastage and selling grocery essentials such as sourdough and artisan salts offers convenience to customers looking for products that aren’t available at the usual outlets.

Designing a line of tote bags, T-shirts, jumpers or caps is a

good way to get the word out about your venue and define a brand’s aesthetic beyond food and drink. Barrel One Coffee

Roasters has sold merchandise since the concept launched on Sydney’s Northern Beaches, with items often selling out instore and on the brand’s website.

November/December 2020 | 37

FEATURE // Trends

Low-ABV beverages

Research from Roy Morgan has shown Australians are drinking less alcohol, with 28.9 per cent

largely abstaining or not consuming alcohol, and 9.5 per cent reducing the amount they

consume. The low-ABV and alcohol-free category is relatively green in Australia, but has continued to grow with the increasing popularity of hard seltzer, alcohol-free spirits and low-ABV beers.

Hard seltzer contains a small amount of alcohol

and is one of the lowest-calorie options on the

market, typically flavoured with fruit. US brand

White Claw recently landed in Australia, joining products from other players including Smirnoff, Moon Dog, Hop Nation and more.

Stone & Wood brewery recently launched East

Point to their core range, which sits at 2.7 per cent ABV. The team decided to launch a low-

alcohol beer after receiving positive feedback from customers about their low-alcohol ‘pilot

batch’ beers, which were tested at two locations.

Table ordering and digital menus

Venues will need to continue to adhere to COVID

Safe guidelines, and minimising touchpoints should remain a focus for operators. There has been

an increased presence of technology that allows

customers to view menus on their phones, order meals and pay when they’re ready.

Platforms including Mr Yum and OrderUp have

risen in popularity and enable customers to view

menus using a QR code, ultimately removing the need for physical menus and wait times. Digital

platforms can help restaurateurs update menus with ease and redeploy staff to other duties.

Plus, research has shown customers are inclined

to spend more when ordering through a digital

platform. In the US, Taco Bell reported a 20 per cent increase in digital order sales compared to those made with a server. The technology also

means staff can spend more time with customers

discussing the story behind the venue or suggesting recommendations instead of taking orders and processing payments.

38 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Trends

All-in-one venues Convenience continues to be king, and operators have identified a gap in the market for venues that can do it all.

Melbourne Restaurateur and Chef Andrew McConnell turned wine bar Marion into a grocery hub during lockdown, and

the venue was such a hit it’s moved to a

permanent home under the name Morning Market. The concept offers pantry

staples along with coffee, flowers, salads, sandwiches and fresh produce.

In Sydney, the team behind venues

including Ragazzi and Love, Tilly Devine

saw an opportunity to open a new type of

venue in the CBD. Fabbrica is selling fresh pasta by the gram along with a revolving

roster of artisan produce, sauces, cheeses, sandwiches, house-made breads and Morning Market

Increased hygiene protocols Hospitality venues have always

maintained strict hygiene protocols,

but increased cleanliness is now more important than ever. Staff should pay special attention to cleaning tables

between customers, ensuring disinfectant is used on surfaces. High-contact areas such as door handles and POS systems should also be regularly disinfected throughout the day.

Hand sanitiser should be readily

available to staff and customers and

staff should be encouraged to wear face

masks if they want to. It’s a good idea to

remove condiments and communal cutlery

containers and instead have staff set tables as customers are seated. Operators are

also required to capture customer contact information to ensure efficient contact

tracing if a person with COVID-19 visits your venue.

40 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Trends

Dietary requirements

The number of Australians adopting vegetarian,

gluten-free and vegan diets continues to rise, as does the demand for a quality food and beverage offering that ticks the dietary boxes. We’ve seen the ongoing

growth of almond and oat milks, which have become the non-dairy preference for baristas.

On the food front, plant-based dishes continue

to gain popularity as more diners choose to limit or

eliminate animal products. Restaurants in Ovolo hotels in Australia have chosen to go vegetarian for one

year, with chefs Roy Ner in Brisbane and Paul Wilson in Canberra designing new offerings. “We want to be

conscious about what we are consuming and practice

Alibi at Ovolo Woolloomooloo

environmental sustainability as best as we can, as

this leads to a larger impact on humanity, not just the environment,” says Ovolo Group Founder and CEO Girish Jhunjhnuwala.

The range of dietary-friendly products has continued

to boom, which means chefs are able to make relatively straight-forward switches to dishes. Gluten-free breads

have come a long way, as have simple condiments such

Operators have identified a gap in the market for venues that can do it all.

as mayonnaises and sauces.

Connecting with producers The relationship between chefs

and producers is intrinsic to the

industry. When chefs learn about

where produce comes from, they’re

able to not only create better dishes, but pass the information on to

customers. Provenance continues to be of the utmost importance

for venues, with more and more

customers becoming increasingly

aware of supporting local farmers and sustainable practices. While COVID-19 has made it difficult to travel to some states, it’s a

ripe opportunity for foodservice

professionals to discover local farms and form new connections. ■

42 | Hospitality

the vegetarian cream, great for whipping

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FEATURE // Nigerian

44 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Nigerian

Go west With regional variations and rich flavours, Nigerian cuisine has a lot to offer diners.

WORDS Madeline Woolway PHOTOGRAPHY 1oh1 Media NIGERIA IS HOME to more than 250

some regions and not in others. “It’s a vast

Atlantic Ocean to the middle of the African

dry,” explains Adeniyi.

ethnic groups. Its borders extend from the continent, spanning a range of geography

country; some areas are tropical, some are Lagos, where Adeniyi hails from, is

and climates.

situated on the Atlantic Ocean. There, fish

diversity, with a plethora of dishes

generations of fishermen eating nothing

The food culture encompasses the

changing to suit local conditions. With such complexity, how does a single

restaurant — thousands of kilometres

away, no less — manage to encapsulate the experience of eating Nigerian cuisine?

is an inescapable part of everyday life, with but. The northern city of Kano, on the

other hand, is home to cattle farmers and herdsmen, with beef and goat common

proteins. “They don’t have any water, so

“We want to be inclusive,” says Adeniyi.

“We looked across the tribes [staff belong to] and picked the most common food

items and the method of food preparation as well. What we’ve done at Little Lagos

is set a [spice] threshold because we’re all

from different tribes. We found this middle point where everyone could still enjoy

the food without it being too spicy or not spicy enough.”

fish didn’t exist in their diet,” says Adeniyi.

Seafood could be swapped out for beef or

of Little Lagos in Sydney’s Newtown,

region. Jollof rice is perhaps the closest

that feature heavily across individual

and predictions for Nigerian cuisine

the major tribes. Often, the only difference

Hospitality speaks to Ade Adeniyi, owner

about his favourite dishes, key ingredients in Australia.

“We’ve got 250-plus tribes, if you can wrap your head around that,” says Adeniyi.

Spice levels are another indicator of

thing to a national dish, cutting across all will be the level of chilli. Jollof rice from

the south east would be expected to have less heat than one from the south west.

While Adeniyi says you can find most

“Each tribe has a different cuisine.”

variations anywhere now, at Little Lagos,

to south, east to west, but they could be

dishes bear the mark of their region, with

The same dishes might exist from north

prepared and cooked differently. Some proteins and produce will be found in

the team has been keen to make sure

the menu showcasing specialities from across the country.

goat, but there are some key ingredients dishes and regions: red palm oil, melon seeds, spice mixes such as yaji and irú.

Their attributes are hard for Adeniyi

to define or find comparisons for, and

perhaps that’s what makes them so integral — they’re what separate Nigerian cuisine.

COVID-19 has made sourcing imported ingredients difficult, but established

grocers who ship in large quantities have saved the day.

Palm oil is what gives Little Lagos’ goat November/December 2020 | 45

FEATURE // Nigerian misunderstandings about the nature of

Nigerian cuisine. Until this point, proteins have been used to illustrate the regional variations that exist. But vegetables

such as yams, sweet potato and spinach as well as capsicum, tomatoes, onions

“The food is a big part of what we’re doing, but it’s more about

and a variety of chilli peppers are of the utmost importance. Beans and rice are

the vibes. You walk in and you see the art on the walls, you see

staples, too.

the people, you hear the music, smell the food.” – Ade Adeniyi

assume West African cuisine is meat-heavy.

According to Adeniyi, many Australians

“Actually, 90 per cent of everything we eat stew an edge. “Palm oil gives it a whole new flavour, as opposed to olive oil,”

says Adeniyi. “When you see a dish with

transform the entire menu. “There’s been

Yewande Komolafe has described red

huge interest,” said Adeniyi a day prior to the event.

Many diners have also taken the

initiative to educate themselves. “When

Problems With Palm Oil Don’t Start With

know more,” says Adeniyi. “I’ve found a lot

ingredients together”. Her article The

the difference between the unrefined red palm oil that’s central to West African

46 | Hospitality

Tuesday 21 October saw the kitchen team

palm oil “as the glue that holds …

My Recipes published in Heated underlines

Chillies, such as habanero and scotch bonnet, are used often with spice levels varying regionally

Little Lagos hosts events to help

every dish — we don’t always, but for most US-based Nigerian-born food writer

Onions, tomatoes and capsicums are important components of many dishes

options, they’re blown away.”

educate the dining public. A vegan day on

of our dishes, we tend to.”

Yaji is a spice mix that includes roasted peanuts, ginger and chilli

vegetarians come in and we lay out all the

red palm oil, you’re like, ‘Oh that looks

different’. It’s rich red. You can use it in

Irú is made from fermented locust beans and can be used dry or fresh

is vegetables,” he says. “When vegans and

cuisine from the industrially processed

palm oil that’s subject to criticism from environmental activists.

It’s not the only misconception

that abounds. There are fundamental

people come in they’re always interested to of people actually do their research before

they come. They go online and read about it and then know exactly what they want.

“Australians who have travelled to either

the UK or the US seem to have an idea

about Nigerian food because in places like New York and London, there are Nigerian restaurants in every borough or suburb.”

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FEATURE // Nigerian

“I was like, ‘If I needed a place to chill after a hard week at work, where would I go?’

And this is it. This is home for us.”

– Ade Adeniyi Two of the most popular dishes are

After the other ingredients have been

jollof rice and goat stew. They’re also

added and fried off, they’re blended but

regional variations and its key ingredients.

blend until it’s half smooth but still has a

demonstrative of West African cuisine, its Adeniyi describes jollof as rice cooked

in stew. It has, he says, two distinct

not for too long. “You always want to

few chunks here and there,” says Adeniyi.

as well and [including] the music — it’s

not just solely a place to eat and then go home having learned literally nothing about Nigeria.

“I was like, ‘If I needed a place to chill

“It should look like a proper stew and not

after a hard week at work, where would I

the stew,” says Adeniyi. “And then we add

West African cuisine, though, is more than

take a pan-African approach, especially

that’s where it gets very technical because

Lagos earlier this year, he did so out of

whole western part of Africa eats the

characteristics: a deep red hue and rich

flavour. “So what we do with jollof is fry

the rice. The stew has to cook the rice, and too much stew will drown the rice and too little will burn the rice.”

The process is all about heat regulation.

“You cook at a very low temperature, and you have to keep stirring to stop the rice

from burning,” says Adeniyi. “It takes a lot of time. You’re not just cooking the rice.

First you have to cook the stew, which takes quite some time.”

Next, is goat stew. “I love to highlight it

a broth.”

its dishes. When Adeniyi opened Little

“selfishness”. The self-described “modern

kid” was shocked to discover a gap in the market when he moved to Sydney. “For

me, Sydney is one of the most important

cities in the world, right?” he says. “You’re talking about London, New York, Tokyo, Dubai and Sydney. So how does a city of six million people not have many African restaurants?”

Little Lagos is an attempt to bring a

because goat is very common in Nigeria,”

little West Africa to Sydney. “There has to

but there’s no rice added. [Alongside] the

if you couldn’t go to Nigeria but wanted

says Adeniyi. “It’s similar to jollof rice stew, goat, key ingredients are tomatoes, onions, habanero or scotch bonnet and capsicum.

The capsicum gives it a thick, rich red

appearance. You leave palm oil [in the

pan] until it’s really hot and then you start with the onion.”

48 | Hospitality

be at least one place where you could go

to experience it,” says Adeniyi. “Food is a

big part of what we’re doing, but it’s more about the vibes. You walk in and you see the art on the walls, you see the people,

you hear the music, smell the food. That was the whole idea about having a bar

go?’ And this is it. This is home for us.”

Besides the name, Adeniyi has tried to

when it comes to the food menu. “The

same things as us,” he says. “So you can’t really say Nigerian when Ghanaians eat the same thing; so do Liberians,

Senegalese and Cameroonians. I think

the second you walk in, you’re like, ‘Yep, this is an African restaurant’.”

When asked if he thinks more West African eateries will soon join the

plethora of East African venues, Adeniyi is hopeful. “I can see a lot of home-style kitchens already operating,” he says.

“They cook from home and people can order from them. There are a lot of

Nigerian-Australians who were raised

here. They identify with the culture and are thinking of ways to grow the Black economy in Australia. So I think it will get popular.” ■

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FEATURE // Condiments

Bottled up Condiments bring as much joy to the plate as they do to a business.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

50 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Condiments Ryan, Jonathan and Simon Cosentino

CONDIMENTS, PRESERVES AND general

Bottles of the tomato sauce, which

jarred goods have a shared mission — to

feature artwork by Mike Souvanthalisith

They’ve largely existed in the domain of

for customers to use at the start, but it

enhance, elevate and complement food.

from Studio Mimu, were placed on tables

supermarkets, but chefs have honed in on

didn’t take long for diners to ask to bring

an opportunity to put their own twists on pantry essentials.

Hospitality talks to Via Porta Co-Owner

and Chef Simon Cosentino and Tuck Shop Takeaway Co-Owner and Chef

Clinton Serex about why they decided to create their own lines, staying true

to their brands and the importance of diversification.

Plus, we chart the rise of the chilli

oil that started on Instagram and has

turned into a full-time gig for founder Danny Rōnin.

Tuck Shop Take Away’s catchphrase is “old-skool vibe, new-skool twist”. The

concept, created by husband and wife chef team Clinton and Karina Serex, opened in 2013 in Caulfield North, Melbourne, and has become the go-to for classic burgers, jaffles, shakes and all the good stuff. But

Tuck Shop isn’t your standard burger spot;

the team pride themselves on using tip-top produce and making basically everything from scratch — including their sauces.

the Tuck Shop sauce experience home.

“When we first started the pantry products, we probably sold 10 jars a week — now we’re up to 100 jars; it showcases the growth in this space.”

– Simon Cosentino

“From day one, we’ve made all the sauces from scratch and we had bottles of the

tomato sauce on the tables,” says Serex.

“There were quite a few requests early

on, so we’ve been bottling it for about six years now.”

A smoked jalapeño hot sauce soon

followed. Both products are free from

thickeners and preservatives and are made with natural ingredients. They’re also

vegan, which means they are universally appealing to all customers. “You can

really tell the difference between [artisan products] and a store-bought sauce,” says Serex.

Via Porta is fairly new on the hospitality

scene, opening last year in Mont Albert, Melbourne. Four siblings are behind

the concept, which operates as a hybrid venue. “We had the vision of creating

a multifaceted business with a dine-in

presence as well as jarred products and

pantry staples,” says Chef and Co-Owner Simon Cosentino.

November/December 2020 | 51

FEATURE // Condiments

Tuck Shop's sauces are $10 a bottle

Via Porta change up jams seasonally

Tuck Shop’s two retail sauces are vegan

Via Porta also offer delivery

Clinton Serex

The brand’s line includes everything

from fruit preserves to pickled veg and sauces, with the majority of products crafted in-house. “We always make

jam based on the season and the fruit

we can get,” says Cosentino. “The last batch, we did 400kg of strawberries from Queensland. The whole team

were involved and the finished product

The Leaf Store, 10 Greek Plates and

unchartered waters when COVID

Meatsmith is definitely our biggest client,”

our attention to taking our take-home

McConnell is a regular at the shop, and

says Serex. “We might sell 20–30 bottles a

week in-store, and I supply Meatsmith with up to 24 bottles a week, but it’s still a very small production.”

is so good; you can’t get that from larger companies.”

Victorian operators have been dealt

quite the hand in 2020, with restrictions impacting businesses in unimaginable ways. But if this year has taught

operators anything, it’s the importance

of diversification. Dine-in trade was the lifeblood of most businesses, but other avenues such as takeaway, gift cards,

virtual experiences and product lines have and will continue to be of importance moving forward.

Tuck Shop and Via Porta are both geared

towards take-home trade, but both have experienced an uptake of their product

Like all venues, Via Porta navigated

Meatsmith now stock the sauces. “Andrew

restrictions commenced. “We shifted all food range and pantry products to the

next level,” says Cosentino. “We’re in a

fortunate position because they have been really well received and it’s cemented

a new aspect of our business. We didn’t

know how good it could be — COVID has

“There were quite a few requests early on, so we’ve been bottling the tomato sauce for about six years.”

– Clinton Serex

opened our eyes to the whole concept of preserving products and having shelf-

stable quality products we can distribute.”

The venue also ventured into wholesale

after experiencing a surge in popularity

for their range. “If we’re talking volumes

in sales, we’re selling a lot more now than when we first started,” says Cosentino.

“We’re supplying other venues with our

products and it’s definitely grown; the sales have grown and our range has grown.

We’re selling through smaller independent delis, grocers and supermarkets as well as

a number of wholesalers, who have been a massive support for us.”

lines in recent months. “It started to gain

The establishment of Co-Lab Pantry,

so through this COVID period,” says Serex.

hospitality industry, has also been a

traction over the last two years, but more The team have steadily ramped up

production of the bottled sauces, which

are made in batches of 24–36 at a time.

A stellar sauce reputation has also led to

wholesale opportunities, and a number of venues including Smith & Deli, Marion,

Gary’s Quality Meats, Frankie’s Top Shop, 52 | Hospitality

a digital platform that supports the

game-changer for Serex and Cosentino.

Buyers are able to purchase goods from

a range of venues and have their orders shipped Australia-wide. Co-Lab are also

part of the Click for Vic campaign from the state government, which aims to support local businesses.

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FEATURE // Condiments

A Co-Lab co-founder approached Tuck

Shop during the initial lockdown in

Victoria, and the brand were one of the first to join the platform. “They place a

normal wholesale order and pick up 40 of each sauce at a time and then they re-

order more,” says Serex. While Serex has

considered setting up an online store, the postage system has been problematic in

terms of cost and time. A hot sauce devotee out of the then-5km radius purchased four bottles of sauce from the venue, and it

took 10 days for it to arrive in spite of the relatively short distance. “It’s definitely a lot better through Co-Lab, who use a courier system and it’s better value for the customer.”

Via Porta are also big fans of Co-Lab, and

have been supplying the platform for over

three months. “The Click for Vic initiative has captured a wider audience, which has been

really exciting,” says Cosentino. “Co-Lab buy

in large quantities and they distribute as they get orders. It’s crazy thinking that we are a

small producer, but we have the capacity to distribute interstate.”

Ronin Chilli

While Melbourne has reopened for dine-

Instagram’s most-coveted chilli oil.

remain a crucial revenue stream for many

Danny R nin is a content creator for musicians and creatives, but a chance

in trade, a strong take-home offering will

operators. Cosentino has plans to debut new

encounter at Australia Post has added a new profession to his resume.

“I’d like to work on a lot of chutneys and

chilli oil and started making it for friends and family during lockdown. He had a

products in the lead up to the festive season. preserves and continue to expand,” he says.

“When we first started the pantry products, we probably sold 10 jars a week — now

we’re up to 100 jars; it showcases the growth in this space.”

Tuck Shop is sticking with two sauces for

the time being, but have received plenty of requests for the Tuck Shop burger sauce,

which features on the menu. “There’s the

R nin, who is first-generation Chinese-Australian from Melbourne, grew up with spare jar leftover, and gave it to an Australia Post employee when he was sending them off. A few hours later, the worker called him asking if they could order 10 jars.

“I had no intention of starting it as a business,” says R nin. “Now, it’s my full-time gig and I’m trying to keep up with orders. It’s taken on a life of its own.”

R nin used his own social media profile to plug R nin Chilli Oil, and the orders soon came flooding in. He worked with Tian38’s Alan Chong and a food scientist to refine the recipe, but it all started in his home kitchen. “Chilli oil was never something cool; there was never any hype around it until recently,” says R nin. “I think it’s an example of a product that social media has had a big part in growing

potential, as it’s a vegan soy-based mayo so

to where it is today.”

for ourselves for the burgers,” says Serex.

team putting in the hours to keep up with demand. “It’s very much batch made and

it’s shelf stable, but we’re going to keep that “I’ve had requests for barbecue sauce, but we don’t use it in any of our products. The two

It’s safe to say the chilli oil has become a huge hit, with R nin and the Tian38 we’re making a couple hundred each week,” says R nin. “Very rarely has someone bought one and not reordered. There are some people who have ordered more jars

sauces we sell are used on the menu [the

than the weeks I’ve been in business.”

Bully burger].

adopt a subscription model. “I kind of want to avoid people buying one-off jars, but

smoked jalapeño is on secret menu item the 2020 has nudged operators to think

differently about their brands; and

developing, refining and growing product lines has proven to be a fruitful operation when done right. ■ 54 | Hospitality

The goal is to create a lasting link with customers, which prompted R nin to the real goal is to create long-term relationships with customers,” says R nin.

R nin is still surprised at how much his chilli oil has taken off, but the creator will continue to ride the chilli oil wave.

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IT’S AN INTERESTING time to be writing

Some owners make a crucial decision that

JobKeeper allows venue owners to step

an article about labour costs when venues

sets their business on a downward trajectory

back from the floor, take a good look

receiving JobKeeper (or at least, should be),

after taking hospitality business advice from

at their business and identify what they

are currently running the lowest labour costs

their accountant. The sad thing is, due to a

need to put in place to make this change

in history. However, it isn’t a time to become

lack of knowledge of their business, most

long lasting. It is not the time to be

complacent. This is the time to be making

don’t realise the gravity of decisions until it is

complacent, as once JobKeeper is turned

lasting changes.

too late.

off, things will go back to how they were,

For years now, the industry has been

The first decision is typically cutting the

if not worse.

plagued with high labour cost due to a

labour of their team and taking more shifts

number of different factors. Traditionally,

on themselves. What starts off as a couple of

matter who you are, the type of

high labour cost in venues has been brought

shifts soon escalates into 60, 70, 80 or more

venue you have or the hours you were

about by three main areas:

hour weeks for some owners.

working before, now is the best time

1. Inefficient workflow design and operation

Most owners in this position lose sight of

2. Poor team culture and lack of leadership

the business trajectory, what is happening in

3. A lack of awareness of the venue’s

the market, and can become the lowest-paid

So what to do now? Well it doesn’t

to be working on your venue and not in your venue.

Now is the opportunity for the industry

numbers and not realising the business

employee (by hourly rate). They soon become

to make lasting change. If you don’t know

doesn’t actually have a labour problem.

slaves of their own creation, rarely work on the

where to start, you need to reach out for

It has a revenue problem.

business and struggle to remove themselves

help. You need to invest in yourself to

from the hamster wheel. Unfortunately,

invest in your business in the same way

owners across Australia and New Zealand

this comes about due to a lack of business

you invested in your fit out and your team.

daily. The team hears countless stories

experience and awareness of how to make

Investing in knowledge and growth to run

from venue owners who have seen their

strategic decisions and long-term change.

your business more profitably is a lifetime

Foodie Coaches speaks to many venue

accountants or advisors and have been told

So what does all this mean? With JobKeeper

they need to lower the labour cost, as it was

in play, it is the industry’s time to make

too high.

a change.

56 | Hospitality

investment that draws lifelong change for your business and everyone it reaches. ■ foodiecoaches.com

FEATURE // Flatbread

In the round Flatbreads have travelled the globe, making their mark on many cuisines. But in India and the Middle East, they’re integral to food culture.

WORDS Madeline Woolway PHOTOGRAPHY Dan Mumbles for Gerard’s Bistro and Gerard’s Bar

58 | Hospitality

FLOUR, WATER AND salt. The three ingredients

come together to form flatbread, and flatbread is perhaps alone in its global ubiquity.

There are examples of flatbread from all

over the world. Different preparation methods,

cooking techniques and sources of flour separate one from the other, but there are clear parallels between them.

While flatbread has spread to every continent,

some of the most recognisable are examples

from the Middle East (pita and lavash) and India (naan, roti and chapati). But, there are dozens, if not hundreds, more variations.

We speak to Adam Wolfers from Gerard’s

Bistro and Gerard’s Bar and former Heritij chef Parag Ashok Kapile about the central role of

flatbread in Middle Eastern and Indian cuisines.

“basically life” at Brisbane venue Gerard’s Bistro. Every meal begins with baked-to-order bread.

“The first thing you get after you sit down and order a drink is a

flatbread to start your meal,” says Wolfers. “It’s a really important part of our whole philosophy.”

The decision to create a bread course wasn’t just about

honouring the venue’s Middle Eastern lineage. “Bread was a really big part of my life growing up, starting from flatbread to braided challah, which is a brioche-style bread,” says Wolfers, who spent

his childhood watching his Hungarian-Jewish grandmother cook.

“Bread was a way to start a meal, and I put as much love into

making our doughs [at Gerard’s] as I do filleting a fish. For a lot of people, bread is just bread. For me, it brings people together.”

In the Middle East and India, flatbreads have a history of doing

just that. Brisbane-based chef Parag Ashok Kapile is equally

passionate about the ancient foodstuff, which is an integral part of daily diets in India and an important component of festival

celebrations. “We will eat bread with every meal,” says Kapile.

“But the full range of breads is not explored in Australia. Roti, naan and paratha are the only things you’ll see.”

While there are some Indian restaurants that go beyond plain,

garlic or cheese naan — Kapile cites Sydney institutions Aki’s

and Abhi’s — there are a few possible reasons for the dearth of options. “Many people have been in Australia for a long time

and aren’t in touch with the heritage or have never learned the

techniques,” says Kapile. “Second, the chefs aren’t willing to take the risk. At 90 per cent of Indian restaurants in Australia, you

will find the same breads and the same curries … they think the

Flatbread cooking on a tava

“When making bread, time equals flavour.”

– Adam Wolfers

November/December 2020 | 59

FEATURE // Flatbread

In the words of Executive Chef Adam Wolfers, flatbread is

FEATURE // Flatbread

Both flatbreads are the purview of

Yemenite Jews, but represent two ends of the flatbread spectrum.

Lahoh, which originated from Somalia,

is a spongy pancake-esque bread that

draws comparisons to Ethiopian injera.

Malawach, on the other hand, is made

with a laminated dough that results in a croissant-like flaky texture.

Beyond lahoh and malawach, the team

has experimented with other flatbreads,

including pita and bazlama. “I would say

malawach and lahoh are kind of their own thing,” says Wolfers. “The others are all very similar in that they have the same

level of hydration [water to flour ratio].”

While Wolfers sticks to tradition by

forgoing instant yeasts and using a wood-

fired oven for many of the breads, he’s not a purist. At Gerard’s, the lahoh is tweaked to make it gluten-free. “We ferment

potatoes and put the starter in with chickpea flour,” he says.

To make Turkish flatbread bazlama, the

team whips melted butter into the dough

instead of olive oil. “It gives it a stretchier style,” says Wolfers.

From north to south, India is home to a wide range of flatbreads, too. When it

comes to regional variations, accessible market is not ready. We really need people from all regions coming forward.”

The risk is this: flatbreads might look

simple, but they’re labour-intense. With so few ingredients, there’s not much to hide behind. Techniques need to be spot on, and there are no shortcuts.

“We cook our breads to order [but

preparation] takes two days, sometimes three, depending on what the bread is,”

says Wolfers. “When making bread, time equals flavour.”

Exploring the full range of Middle

Eastern cuisines is the driving force

behind Gerard’s kitchen, and breads are

foundational. “There are lots of different

breads and they’re all different textures,” says Wolfers. “They’re all based around a

very similar ratio of flour and water [but] they’re all very different.”

The Gerard’s Bistro team has whipped

up everything from lahoh to malawach.

60 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Flatbread

“The full range of Indian breads available is not explored in Australia.

Roti, naan and paratha are the only things you’ll see.”

– Parag Ashok Kapile ingredients are the first difference and cooking

chef. “They’re made during festivals [such as

shares a border with Pakistan, tandoor breads

from a medium-soft wheat dough and we put

techniques the second. In the north, which

such as roti are common. “Naan and roti came from Persia,” explains Kapile. “If you come to

Holi and Ganesh Chaturthi]. They’re made sweetened chana dal inside.”

The sweetened chana dal is made using

the central parts, like Maharashtra where I’m

chickpeas and jaggery which are ground into

from wheat.”

fondant, before it’s stuffed between a flatbread

from, you will find most of the breads are made Both sorghum and finger millet flour-based

flatbreads are common in the central states such as Gujarat, Maharashtra and Goa as well as

southern states. “Bhakri is one example, which

you won’t find in restaurants here,” says Kapile.

“Another is thalipeeth, which is a multigrain

bread. The flour my mother-in-law and I make

has 36 grains and you can add cabbage, spinach, turmeric and salt. You make a dough, which is flattened with your fingers.” Along with many flatbreads, both bhakri and thalipeeth are cooked over fire on a tava.

Kapile would like to see more attention put

towards the sweet puran poli and til poli. “They are consumed during festive times,” says the 62 | Hospitality

Thalipeeth

an incredibly fine paste, similar in texture to

dough made with flour, salt, water and ghee.

“My mother would grind it three or four times until it’s absolutely fine so the bread isn’t

punctured when rolled out,” says Kapile. “It was so painful, she would get cranky if you came

next to her. The mixture is put in the middle of

the dough and sealed like a dumpling, made into a ball and then rolled flat. Then we griddle it in ghee on the hot plate.”

Til poli, eaten mostly during the winter

festival of Makar Sankranti, is similar, but made with a sesame seed and jaggery mixture rather than chana dal. “Jaggery gives a different taste [compared to refined sugar],” says Kapile.

“It’s divine.”

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FEATURE // Flatbread Puran poli

Some of the variations made at Gerard’s

The process for a carrot pita will go

“It will have the characteristics of

may present as avant-garde — take

something like this: Wolfers will pureé

in Wolfersʼ eyes, the venue honours the

fermented with salt for a week. He’ll then

Tradition sometimes needs bending

and add it to the fermented carrot base.

San Francisco has birthed a lot of

fermented carrot pita, for example — but ethos of many cuisines, which make the most of available ingredients. “For us,

changing the menu everyday and trying to

minimise waste is a big part of the cooking here,” he says. “And that’s a big part of

the cooking in a lot of cuisines, especially traditional ones.”

leftover carrot offcuts, which are then

take a small amount of sourdough starter Flour and water are then put in, and a

new starter is made. “I call it a secondary

starter,” says Wolfers. “It’s breaking down the carrot into a starter itself.”

Most starchy vegetables will work

Many restaurants use vegetable offcuts

according to Wolfers, who’s also made a

Wolfers thought it was worth using them

inconsistent was cabbage,” he says. “The

and scraps to make vinegars or pureés; to make bread. “So, now that’s kind of

our thing — we create a bread around a

vegetable or a grain that was going to go in the bin,” he says.

The process has traditional roots.

“Centuries ago, they didn’t have

its environment.”

to suit different environments, too.

sourdough experts for example, but the temperature there is 15 degrees cooler than a humid summer day in South

East Queensland, so the recipes won’t translate exactly.

“Bread is a labour of love [and] you

celeriac starter. “The one that was a bit

learn as you go,” says Wolfers. “You can

water content in cabbage makes it a bit

but the beauty of bread is that it’s sort

temperamental. Use a starchy vegetable with a bit of body to it. Don’t make an

asparagus starter — that won’t be your

friend. But pulses, grains, potatoes, sweet

read a recipe and copy it the exact tee,

of up to the individual. If you feed your

sourdough starter and I feed my one, it’s going to be very different.”

Bringing his own recipes to the table

potatoes and pumpkins work well.”

is what Kapile hopes to do in 2021, and

used natural yeast to leaven the bread.

remains popular throughout India. “In

diversity to Indian cuisine in Australia.

that we use a sourdough base.”

natural fermentation,” says Kapile.

[manufactured] yeast,” says Wolfers. “They I guess we use the traditional method in

64 | Hospitality

Natural fermentation with wild yeasts

Pradesh, they make a lot of bread using

the chef is on a mission to add more In the meantime, there’s plenty of doughs to explore. ■

online hospitality training

Compliance

Health & Safety

Table service

Beverage

Cellar operations

Food transport

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VIDEO // Behind the scenes

Fish in the garden The popular Thai dish is recreated at Sydney restaurant The Full Elephant.

The Full Elephant’s Executive

1

2

3

4

5

6

Chef Sorapong ‘B’ Prungleq shows us how to make ‘fish in the garden’; a dish found throughout Thailand.

Ingredients Whole barramundi Long red chillis Green apple Garlic Palm sugar Sugar Mint leaves Pine nuts Purple onion Shallots Fish sauce Self-raising flour Lemon juice Coriander

Method Fillet the barramundi and slice into pieces. Cover the fish pieces and carcass in selfraising flour and deep-fry until golden.

Make a syrup by combining fish sauce with palm sugar, sugar and water.

Chop apples, purple onion, garlic, shallots, long red chillis, coriander and mint leaves and place in a bowl. Add pine nuts, lemon juice and syrup and stir to combine.

To serve, place fish carcass and fried fish pieces on a bed of leaves. Cover with dressing.

Watch the video now at hospitalitymagazine.com.au

66 | Hospitality

EQUIPMENT // Contact grill

Contact grill Contact grills are best known as sandwich presses, but can be used for many more applications.

Commercial models

Domestic sandwich

can be used to grill

presses can work for low-

meat, poultry, seafood

volume venues and come

or produce

at a fraction of the cost

Heated plates and pressure work together to cook food quickly Ribbed plates will create ‘authentic’ grill marks and allow for fat and grease to drain away For even heat distribution, choose smooth plates

Look for a model that has multiple operational Manual thermostat controls allow for precise temperatures to be set

68 | Hospitality

modes including bottom plate only

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Bhatia Dheeraj

Bhatia Dheeraj The Coogee Wine Room general manager and wine director on Australian wine culture, mentors and pairing professional development with passion.

Stéphane Soret at Raffles Hotel further honed my skills. Every mentor I’ve had has been invaluable and the one thing

I WAS PURSUING a Bachelor of Hotel

styles. People do enjoy local Australian

chef, but I was drawn towards front of

industry, but they are also open-minded

Management and even trained to be a

house. I was always fascinated with wines.

It made me more curious coming from a

hotels, Michelin and hatted restaurants,

which makes it fun as a sommelier.

perhaps enter other segments of the wine

Working hospitality hours for 15-plus

years definitely takes its toll, so family

I would do whatever it took to learn

me. My wife Shikha is a pastry chef

about wine, and I went to Dubai, Cape

Town, France, Italy, the USA, Germany, Singapore, Hong Kong and Singapore for work, wine trips and professional wine studies.

Having worked in a few countries, I can

say the majority of people in Australia are willing to taste and try new wines and 70 | Hospitality

After working in high-end luxury

wine, which is a great thing for our

family where wine was not on the table or

even a common part of our lives. I decided

they all agree on is being humble.

support has been really important for and understands the demands of the

industry; she’s been an incredible support.

I have also been blessed to have the

best mentors around the globe. The real journey began when renowned chef

Julien Bompard hired me for his French restaurant Le Saint Julien in Singapore and then legendary wine director

you climb the corporate ladder or

business. I still wanted the flexibility to

be a sommelier, and that’s what excited

me about the role at Coogee Wine Room.

When I met [owners] Tom Hardwick and Michelle Morales, we found we shared

the same vision about the business and how to expand. I’m really enjoying

working with the team, which includes some excellent sommeliers as well as

Sandro Di Marino, the head chef, who is

so cool and relaxed and creates food that is meant to be shared with wine. ■

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