Hospitality June 2022

NO.784 JUNE 2022

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NO.784 JUNE 2022

CHISWICK’S TAYLOR CULLEN • PUB DINING • WINTER COCKTAILS • BIRYANI

CONTENTS // June

Contents JUNE 2022

22

Regulars 8 // IN FOCUS The current state of the global coffee industry.

12 // NEWS The latest openings, books, events and more.

14 // PRODUCE Wasabi: a plant that can be grown in water and soil.

16 // BEST PRACTICE Is automation right for your business?

20 // BAR CART Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related.

4 | Hospitality

30

52

22 // DRINKS Winter cocktails and specialised bars.

Features

30 // PROFILE Head Chef Taylor Cullen is ushering in Chiswick’s 10th birthday with a vegcentric approach.

72 // EQUIPMENT The stick blender is an essential for a reason.

74 // 5 MINUTES WITH …

Foxtrot Unicorn’s Shirley Yeung.

38 // CALZONE It’s made from identical ingredients to pizza, but calzone is far from the same.

44 // BIRYANI Two chefs weigh in on the iconic rice-based dish.

52 // BABKA Tradition and decadence combine.

58 // PUB RESTAURANTS Menus have come a long way from steak and chips.

66 // WOMEN IN LIQUOR Ciara Doran from The Doss House and Frank Mac’s.

hello@futurefarmpacific.com

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

WINING AND DINING Celebrating 10 years of Matt Moran’s Chiswick restaurant with a feast. @aristinedob

A word from the editor WE’VE ALREADY HIT the halfway mark of

a long way and is the focus of a feature

2022 and hospitality venues are very much

on the Waterloo Inn in Swansea and The

making the most of the cool season. Despite

Lucky Prawn in Sydney. Both concepts have

plunging temperatures, things have been

become serious drawcards for diners who are

heating up in the food and beverage scene;

also treated to a stellar beverage offering of

I know I have been making the most of winter

natural wines and beers on tap.

menus and a glass of red (or two).

This issue, I speak with Chiswick’s Taylor

In addition, you’ll find stories on pizza’s sibling (calzone); a look at biryani and babka

Cullen, who is heading up the venue as it

plus a review on the current state of the

celebrates its 10th birthday — no mean feat in

global coffee industry based on new findings

a competitive landscape. The chef has been

from World Coffee Research.

making the most of the restaurant’s kitchen garden which lends itself to his veg-driven

Until next time,

culinary approach.

Annabelle Cloros

The food offering at pubs has come

KOWLOON CALLING A plate of pork noodles with pickled cabbage at Burwood’s Kowloon Café. @annabellecloros

Editor

TWO’S COMPANY Devon Café and Tokyo Lamington’s limited collaboration covered onigiri and sweet treats. @hospitalitymagazine

Follow us @hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Aristine Dobson adobson@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

CIRCULATIONS To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymag azine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine instagram.com/ hospitalitymagazine

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6 | Hospitality

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IN FOCUS // World Coffee Research

A brighter future The coffee industry has been left behind when it comes to agricultural production, but World Coffee Research is putting in the work to make a change.

WORDS Aristine Dobson COFFEE IS BIG business in Australia, and

consumer demand continues to increase. But in recent years, the coffee industry has been

increase coffee production, and so far, it has

helped the sector move in the right direction.

WCR’s 2021 research was published by the

significantly impacted by climate change.

organisation in partnership with Illycaffè and

and under-innovated crops in the world despite

genes and genetic markers associated with

Coffee is one of the most under-researched its prevalence.

World Coffee Research (WCR) was formed

in 2011 to address such issues. Since then, the not-for-profit organisation has made strides

to ensure the future of the industry as well as

improve the livelihoods of the people who work within it.

The 2021 WCR Annual Report reveals the

progress made in accelerating agricultural production, breeding programs and trials,

diversifying coffee species and most importantly, creating climate-resilient crops.

Hospitality speaks to Director of Strategy and

Communications Hanna Neuschwander about the recent findings and what it means for the sector moving forward.

World Coffee Research focuses on three key areas within coffee agriculture — breeding,

trials and nurseries. All three work together to 8 | Hospitality

“Coffee is arriving very late to these approaches, which

Lavazza and allows producers “to identify key

have been used

important plant characteristics that matter for

for other crops

farmers”, says Hanna Neuschwander. “Having that information helps speed up the breeding process and makes it cheaper.”

The Arabica coffee genome didn’t exist 10

years ago, but has become the coffee of choice for many, comprising 60 per cent of global

production. It’s one of 130 species and is highly sought after, making the open-access genome

a huge milestone for the coffee community. “It is critical for enabling breeders to accelerate

crop improvement for coffee, which is urgently needed,” says Neuschwander. “Farmers need

access to better varieties to meet the challenges

of the 21st century. The more tools breeders have at their disposal, the more likely they are to help address those needs through breeding.”

The Coffee-Breeding Program Assessment

Tool was implemented in 2020 by WCR in

collaboration with the University of Queensland.

for years.”

– Hanna Neuschwander

OUTT OF YOUR Y MENU

www.nestleprofessi

onal.com.au

IN FOCUS // World Coffee Research The program aims to identify gaps in the

The trial is still ongoing, and has shown

tend to score more generously than

technical management of coffee breeding

promising results so far. “There are some

low-cost tools for breeders. “Breeding is

across many different environments (they

of connecting researchers to those in

Neuschwander. “There are also many others

there creating new varieties for farmers

and amend them by providing basic

a numbers game — the more crosses you

make, the more likely you are to find one that offers genuine improvement,” says

Neuschwander. “But crossing two plants together, growing them and observing

them over 10 years is costly. With genetics technology, you can predict the likelihood that a cross will succeed without waiting

high-performing varieties that have stability don’t only perform well in one place),” says

that perform really well in one place, but not so well in others. They might be excellent for today’s conditions, but as the weather changes, farmers will need to adopt new varieties to remain successful.”

Positive results are one thing, but

international cuppers.”

The results demonstrate the importance

the industry. “Coffee breeders are out

that roasters will eventually receive to

build their coffee menus and products,”

says Neuschwander. “When they receive

feedback from farmers and buyers, coffee variety innovation really creates value.”

so long, so you are more likely to find

experts also need to measure progress

WCR has endeavoured to increase the

without genetic modification.”

Graders or cuppers come in. “We took a

the production of seed varieties. The

a combination that is truly successful

Testing different varieties is crucial when

developing crops that are able to withstand the environmental changes brought on by climate change. In 2015, WCR launched

on a consumer level, which is where Q

subset of 10 varieties from trial sites in six

countries and sent them to highly qualified cuppers from 20 coffee companies in nine countries,” says Neuschwander.

Cupping scores go up to 100 points, with

number of nurseries globally to increase figures in the new findings show 139 seed

lots are producing 15 varieties in countries

such as Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Honduras and Peru.

It’s a positive outcome for the research

its inaugural International Multilocation

anything below 80 not considered to be a

and development that has occurred across

planted in 24 locations in 17 countries,”

by international buyers and researchers

to ensure the industry’s future. “Coffee

Variety Trial. “The same 31 varieties were explains Neuschwander. “The varieties are being exposed to huge variation in climate and weather, which is vital for understanding the potential of today’s

varieties to withstand climate change.”

10 | Hospitality

specialty coffee. The initiative was judged who managed the trials. “It confirms another trend we see in our cupping

research — cuppers are not consistent

with one another,” says Neuschwander.

“In general, local, country-based cuppers

the board, but there’s a long way to go

is arriving very late to these approaches,

which have been used for other crops for years,” says Neuschwander. “We have to

catch up fast if we want to have a chance against climate change.” ■

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NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more.

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Licoreria Limantour takes over Shell House Acclaimed bar Licoreria Limantour is travelling from Mexico City to Sydney for a three-day pop-up at Shell House. Currently sitting at number six on The World’s 50 Best Bars list, and named as the 2021 winner of The Best Bar in North America, Licoreria Limantour is bringing its signature cocktails to Sky Bar from 21–23 June. Head Chef Aaron Ward will create a snacks menu designed to complement the drinks, which “celebrate taste, texture and aroma”. shellhouse.com.au

Team effort Meru Miso has collaborated with Brookfarm to create a macadamia miso with pink sea salt. The release comes after Meru Miso supplied Melbourne’s Vue de Monde with the paste for a number of years, with the team deciding to launch it to the public for the very first time. The miso features Australian oven-roasted macadamia nuts from Brookfarm and is described as “wonderfully complex, sweet, salty, savoury and umami”. Available for $15.50 from merumiso.com

Jewel of the sea Pearl Chablis & Oyster Bar celebrates the finer things in life in Melbourne’s CBD. The Bourke Street venue is the brainchild of the team behind Pinchy’s Champagne and Lobster Bar and has a long menu of New South Wales oysters on ice from Moonlight Flats to Wapengo Rocks. A snappy menu covers dishes including beef tartare, duck liver parfait and trout rillette, with sea urchin and periwinkles also on offer. Guests can choose a drop from the largest Chablis collection in the country, with the venue spotlighting a range of appellations and vintages from a standout producer each month. pearloyster.co

12 | Hospitality

NEWS // Entrée

Good things take time Head Chef of Six Penny Tony Schifilliti spent years working on Cura, a koji-centric seasoning brand created to enhance flavours. The black garlic paste undergoes a two-step fermentation process that sees organic garlic heated to 60 degrees Celsius for six weeks until it changes colour.

The bulbs are then combined with barley koji, soybeans and salt and are left to ferment for 10 months, resulting in an “umami-complex garlic”. Find Sydney stockists at curaseasonings.com.au

A walk to remember On the Himalayan Trail Romy Gill Hardie Grant Books; $55 Food writer Romy Gill puts Kashmir and Ladakh dishes in the spotlight in On the Himalayan Trail. The book includes more than 80 recipes encompassing shami kebabs (minced lamb patties); wagen pakora (fried eggplant); kanguch yakhni (morels in spicy gravy) as well as hearty meat curries. Commended

by Gordon Ramsay, who said the first-of-its-kind book is “simply stunning”, Gill charts the intricacies of Kashmiri cookery and its significant role in India’s vast food culture. hardiegrant.com

The Strand ushers in a new era Iconic Sydney venue The Strand has reopened in Darlinghurst after undergoing an extensive renovation under new owners Public Hospitality. At its completion this winter, the four-level venue will include a rooftop bar, accommodation and a French-inspired bistro, which is now open. Guests can enjoy all the classics at the all-day restaurant including steak frites, duck with plum and radicchio and a Gruyere burger. There’s also a 49-bottle whisky list and a selection of cocktails inspired by France. thestrand-hotel.com June 2022 | 13

PRODUCE // Wasabi Leaves can be consumed raw

A mature plant can yield up to 300g stems

Stems priced at $100 per kg back in 2011–2012 The Western horseradish plant is often used in place of authentic wasabi

Seeds are difficult to source

Traditionally ground on a dried shark fin

14 | Hospitality

PRODUCE // Wasabi

Wasabi The green-hued plant is an essential in Japanese cookery.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros Origins

cleaned under potable water. The

Wasabi is a foundational ingredient in

leaves, petioles and stems are edible

Japanese cuisine and has been grown

and can be harvested along with the

in the country since the eighth century.

stems. Sometimes, the stem is picked

Wasabi, or Wasabia japonica, is a

with the leaves still attached, which

semi-aquatic perennial herb that is

indicates freshness. Wasabi can be

part of the Brassicaceae family, which

harvested at any time of the year if it

also includes horseradish. Daruma and

has reached peak maturation.

Mazuma are the two main cultivars produced in Japan and Taiwan as well

Flavour profile and appearance

as Tasmania here in Australia. The

Wasabi plants have long stems that

plant is a high-value crop, and as such,

produce small white flowers. The

production levels are declining due to

knobbly stems are bright green in

difficulties relating to environmental

colour and can grow up to 10cm long

factors as well as costs.

and 3cm in diameter. Green leaves cover the stems and can reach up to

Growth and harvest

150mm in diameter.

The plant was originally found in streams

The pungent flavour of wasabi

in Japan and is still grown in water today

can be likened to hot mustard or

in addition to soil. Wasabi produced

horseradish. It often generates a

in water is said to be of superior

sensation in the nose rather than on

quality to its soil counterpart, which is

the palate. It has a clean, white heat

reflected in the price. Wasabi does not

that results in a burning sensation

tolerate direct sunlight and requires

when consumed.

temperatures that remain under 25 degrees Celsius. For soil, wasabi should

Culinary applications

be planted in raised, shaded beds

There are several ways wasabi can

irrigated with high-quality water that

be used. Most commonly, the stem is

can drain properly. If pollution is present

freshly ground using a square metal

in the water, wasabi will not survive. In

grater called an oroshigane. Wasabi is

Tasmania, daruma is grown in soil and

dabbed sparingly on sushi or sashimi

mazuma is grown in water.

by chefs or given to guests to use

It takes between 22 to 24 months

according to their own tastes. The

for wasabi to reach maturation,

herb’s stems and leaves can be made

with the herb produced in two-year

into a dried powder that’s used as a

cycles. The stems are harvested by

seasoning or to add flavour to chips,

hand and should be trimmed and

peas, cheese or rice crackers. ■ June 2022 | 15

BEST PRACTICE // Automation

Future thinking Can automation help your business become more profitable?

WORDS Ken Burgin

YOU’VE SEEN THE videos of

Steam LP 3-Group and Victoria

second coffee purchase. But for

hot, fresh pizza coming from

Arduino Black Eagle 3-Group

technology such as Flow Coffee

a machine and a robotic arm

for espresso and an Ubermilk

analytics, it’s a bit longer and

mixing cocktails or making

for high-quality, high-volume

perhaps a less-tangible outcome

coffee. No people equals no

milk delivery.

as it’s primarily about the quality

wages, which sounds like a good

“When using milk alternatives,

of the product rather than the

move in 2022, but what will your

we have temperature gauges

speed or decreased wastage.

customers think? If their priorities

on all jugs to increase

Each new system is looked at

are consistent quality, speed and

temperature consistency. We

for the benefits that are likely to

value, automation can help you

also use Flow Coffee espresso

flow through to our business.”

achieve that.

diagnostics to help baristas

Matt Lucas is behind the Coffee

As an investor in technology,

remain focused on producing

Lucas is currently looking at

Pedaler cafés in Gundagai and

quality espresso according to

some robotic systems to install

Tumut in New South Wales, which

our recipe parameter.”

at his two cafés. “How a robot

cater to tourists and locals using

Lucas examines the cost-

automation. His typical customer

benefit ratio before splashing

and possibly customers, along

is someone who wants an

out on any new technology. “I

with other IT infrastructure and

alternative to freeway fast food;

want to get a payback in less

existing equipment installations,

they are prepared to pay a little

than a year on any equipment we

will be a gamechanger in

extra, but do not want long

invest in,” he says. “It was easy

hospitality,” he says. “I don’t

wait times.

to work out the cost saving with

believe the future of hospitality

“We are most automated in

interacts with human employees

Ubermilk based on the increased

in Australia is customer–robot

our coffee set-up,” says Lucas.

capacity of the baristas plus

interaction, but rather robot–

“We use a Mahlkonig grinder for

the decreased milk usage and

food/beverage production,

consistent dosing; a Puqpress

the reduced wait times, which

with humans providing the

for consistent tamping; a Slayer

leads to the likelihood of a

differentiating experience.” ■

16 | Hospitality

“How a robot interacts with human employees and possibly customers … will be a gamechanger in hospitality.”

– Matt Lucas

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ADVERTORIAL // Jands

Elevate the customer experience through sound It’s one of the most powerful ways to trigger human emotion.

JANDS HAS BEEN in the business

perceived all together.

of entertaining Australia for over

A well-tuned audio

wrong spaces at incorrect

is about the strategic placement

angles or with wrong

of a unified array of speakers

50 years, working hand in hand

atmosphere is not simply a minor

configuration can still ruin the

covering as much space as

with some of the biggest artists

consideration, but rather a

experience of a venue. When all

possible without needing to push

in the world and at some of

crucial component of a venue’s

aspects of the venue’s story are

out massive heavy sounds.

Australia’s largest venues. Jands

design. The sound becomes a

taken into consideration, people

Different venues cater to

has expanded into numerous

part of the story a venue is trying

are more compelled to stay and

different crowds, with each

sectors, creating and sourcing all

to tell, and it is the sound system

return, and most importantly, are

space requiring a level of audio-

sorts of audio and visual solutions

itself that ties it all together.

more likely to spend. 51 per cent

visual knowledge to finetune its

from concerts and boardrooms to

Even the best music can

of additional drink bill spending

story. As a leading distributor

lead to a negative impact on

comes from the complementary

of audiovisual solutions, Jands’

hospitality venues.

a venue’s internal story if the

music atmosphere and 71 per

team of application designers

has given Jands a tremendous

Years of audio expertise

quality of the sound system isn’t

cent of customers think playing

pair decades of technical

amount of insight into what

considered. Systems of poor

background music creates a

expertise with best-in-class

makes a venue’s audio system

quality can produce loud and

better atmosphere while dining.

solutions such as Electro Voice’s

stand out. Often pushed aside

jarring sounds that turn away

as mere “background noise”,

new customers before they

phenomenal sound system is not

sound has been proven to not

even enter and sour remaining

a matter of using the biggest and

about audio solutions for dining

just affect the emotions of venue

customers from returning.

loudest speakers to flood a venue

spaces, visit jands.com.au/

with sound. A great sound system

contact ■

patrons, but how a venue is 18 | Hospitality

Good systems set up in the

In Jands’ expert opinion, a

EVID loudspeaker family.

If you would like to learn more

FIND OUT MORE

NEWS // Drinks

Bar cart

Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related.

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Mix it up Elevating drinks has become a lot easier with S.Pellegrino’s new mixer range that covers Ginger Beer, Tonica Citrus and Tonica Oakwood. The Ginger Beer can be sipped solo or used in a Moscow Mule, with the citrus tonic’s notes of lemon and orange peel plus bitter bark making it the ideal accompaniment to gin or vodka. Oakwood sees oak extracts generate bitter notes that highlight gin botanicals perfectly. $8.50 for a four-pack. sanpellegrino.com

Hazy days On the rocks Australia’s first non-alcoholic ‘dram’ is here thanks to Lyre’s. Highland Malt has a soft earthiness and bouquet with notes of light grain cereal, stone fruit and almond. The whisky-style beverage evokes charred oak and warm spices alongside a ‘welcoming’ smoke. “Whether served neat or in mixers, whisky is a firm favourite for many around the world,” says David Murphy from Lyre’s. “Understanding this, we’ve worked tirelessly to study the aromas and tastes whisky fans most enjoy to deliver Highland Malt.” Available from Dan Murphy’s, liquor retailers and lyres.com.au

Sidewinder is channelling citrus and stone fruit in two new XPAs: lime and passionfruit. Brick Lane created Sidewinder to cater to the no- and low-alcohol markets, with the two new options joining the range and sitting at less than 0.5 per cent ABV. The lime XPA has aromas of lime juice, orange oil and citrus hops along with stone fruit esters and a biscuity-malt character. Passionfruit is the hero in the second beer, which also has notes of guava and mango.

Available at Dan Murphy’s and Coles. sidewinderlife.com.au

Ginger zinger Better Beer has expanded its range with an alcoholic ginger

Los Siete Misterios arrives

flavourway that combines

The local mezcal scene has been shaken up with the

nostalgia with those looking for a

launch of Los Siete Misterios in Australia. The brand

low-sugar beverage option. The

was created in 2010 by the Mestres brothers and

founders developed the product

produces mezcals according to traditional production

over several months until they were

methods in Oaxaca, Mexico. Siete Misterios says it

happy with the final version, which

“remain[s] respectful of one of the purest essences:

has a spicy ginger hit and just 4g

mezcal, a genuine Mexican heritage”. Doba-Yej

of sugar per 100ml. Described as

(bright, floral, citrus); Pechuga (fragrant and spice-

a “dangerously tasty alcoholic

driven) and Tobala (tropical fruit, herbs, wet earth)

ginger beer that hits the spot”, the

are now available and reflect the traditions of the

refresher is available at BWS and

agave spirit. vanguardluxurybrands.com.au

Dan Murphy’s. betterbeer.com.au

20 | Hospitality

Boston Butt mop sauce a culinary revolution!

A Mop Sauce is used in Texan BBQ to help cool down the meat and lock in the flavour.

Bull’s Eye Original BBQ sauce imparts a bold, Smokey flavour while the Maillard Reaction between sugars & proteins that occurs with heat, helps create that beautiful, caramelised colour.

The mop is used to periodically baste the meat, perfect for a Boston Butt or Pork shoulder! serves 6-8

MEAT

MOP SAUCE

2-3kg Boston butt, bone in

1 cup dark/strong coffee

20g seasoning mix from: 1 cup brown sugar ½ cup salt 4 tablespoons smoked paprika 2 tablespoons coarse black pepper ½ tablespoon cumin ½ tablespoon onion powder ½ tablespoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup BULL’S EYE ORIGINAL BBQ SAUCE 1 full tablespoon fresh coarse ground black pepper 1 tablespoon SAXA NATURAL SEA SALT FLAKES ¼ cup butter ½ cup LEA & PERRINS WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE

original BBQ SAUCE

1

4-6 hours

Combine all seasoning ingredients together in a bowl. Transfer seasoning mix to an airtight container (like a mason jar or other dry rub container). Will keep for up to a year if sealed tight and stored in a cool place.

2 Season your pork with salt & pepper, go wild here & feel free to freestyle. You could also use onion & garlic powders as well as smoked paprika for extra flavours.

3 To make the Mop Sauce, mix everything together bar the butter, bring to the boil gently & whisk in cold cubed butter. Don’t be fooled by the sauce’s consistency, it’s designed to be less viscous than traditional sauces because it will permeate the meat, caramelise & repeat. Keep close to the joint of meat & periodically “mop”.

4 Cooking in a traditional oven is simple, get your oven to around ¾ of its max temp.

Most ovens run at 280˚max, so aim for around 210 for the first half of the cook, then reduce the temperature down to around 100 degrees for the rest of the cook.

Around 2 hours per kilo should be just about right.

SCAN FOR RECIPE

DRINKS // Specialised bars

One of a kind Bar Conte is diversifying a classic via a 12-Negroni menu.

WORDS Aristine Dobson

22 | Hospitality

DRINKS // Specialised bars

CONCEPTUAL BARS HAVE become

commonplace in the industry, with venues

dedicated to whisky, gin, tequila, mezcal and

more. But what if there was a place that honed

in on one cocktail? Sydney’s Bar Conte is a new

player on the scene highlighting an Italian classic — the Negroni. The menu has more than 12

iterations of the drink and brings new meaning to the phrase ‘the more, the merrier’.

Co-Owner (and self-described Negroni lover)

Daniele Lombardi is behind the bar in Surry Hills and talks to Hospitality about the motivation

behind the menu, what makes the Negroni his

drink of choice and how to tweak a cocktail that’s lauded for its simplicity.

In Milan, Italy, specialised aperitivo bars are

The Americano and the original Negroni

commonplace, with the city essentially creating the

signalled the beginning of closely related classic

liqueurs such as limoncello and Amaro are always

Campari is the common denominator. “The

concept. Campari and Aperol-centric drinks and paired with small antipasti dishes. “We are from

Italy, so the concept of an aperitivo bar is something we grew up with,” says Daniele Lombardi.

The bartender runs the business with his brother

Raffaele Lombardi and ex-Apollo chef Steven de Vecchi. The team decided to expand the original

venue Caffé Conte earlier this year to launch a bar

cocktails. While they all have different twists,

and the white Negroni,” says Lombardi. “My

grew up with.”

favourite one is the classic, but then you’ve got

the Milano Torino with vermouth and Campari, The Boulevardier swaps out gin for bourbon

Negroni Tropicale is another signature. “It has

have taken a more casual approach to drinking and dining. “I’ve noticed people like to have

sometimes served in taller glassware. The

an infusion of pineapple and coconut oil which

goes with the gin and the Campari, making it a tropical-style [drink],” says Lombardi.

Bar Conte’s main goal is to showcase the

small sittings and aperitif-style drinks are

different ways a Negroni can be made and

and how we grew up back home.”

found throughout Italy. Lombardi lists the

becoming bigger here; it goes with our concept Amongst the vast selection of aperitifs and

digestifs, the menu has a section dedicated to

Negronis. The cocktail is a global staple in bars and has inspired a significant number of riffs.

“The Negroni itself has a lot of variations that have been around for years, but we wanted a

list with all of them,” says Lombardi. “Everybody loves the Negroni.”

The drink comprises equal parts dry London gin, Campari and sweet vermouth. The Negroni is

believed to have started out as a derivative of

the Americano, with Bar Conte paying tribute

to the drink’s history in its name. “Conte means

‘count’,” says Lombardi. “The Negroni came from the Americano cocktail when Count Camillo de Negroni [French general in Florence] swapped the soda for gin.”

– Daniele Lombardi

which is considered a twist.”

[there] are Campari umbrellas outside; it feels like Bar Conte is part of the wave of venues that

aperitivo bar is something we

sbagliato, the Boulevardier, the coffee Negroni

while the sbagliato uses Prosecco and is

a little part of Milan,” says Lombardi.

so the concept of an

Americano came first, then the Negroni, the

that reflects an Italian experience. “Even with the

design, we’re using ’50s and ’60s dark greens and

“We are from Italy,

educate patrons on regional interpretations coffee Negroni as an example. “Many people

have heard about the coffee Negroni, but it is something that has existed for a long time in

Naples,” he says. “I want to share these details

on our menu, which lists where each [Negroni] comes from; there is a history behind all of them.”

Lombardi has been making cocktails for 15 years, and while his knowledge, skills and

The Negroni was created at Caffè

Campari

Giacosa in

is from

Florence

Milan

Cynar is

Bar Conte

personal tastes extend far beyond the Negroni,

it is a drink he cannot fault. “If someone comes

into our bar and asks for an espresso martini, of course I’m going to make it,” he says. “But you

can have those drinks anywhere. If we focus on

one thing, we’re going to make sure we achieve

perfection with every single Negroni we have on the list.” ■

made from

also has a

artichokes

spritz menu

June 2022 | 23

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DRINKS // Winter cocktails

Soothing

sips

An underground bar is embracing the chill with a bespoke cocktail list.

WORDS Aristine Dobson PHOTOGRAPHY Steven Woodburn and Jiwon Kim

26 | Hospitality

DRINKS // Winter cocktails

THE TEMPERATURE HAS offically dropped outside, which means fruity refreshers have been swapped for slow sippers. Bartenders are creating citrus-driven cocktails with dark spirits that are rich

in flavour and heavy on complexity. Hot toddies, mulled wine and liquor-spiked lattes have become the go-to as the drinking public embraces the cool season with seasonally appropriate options.

Sydney bar Apollonia has taken a classic yet contemporary

approach with its current menu, which revolves around warming spices and barrel-aged spirits. Beverage Director Jason Williams talks to Hospitality about working with different spirits and creating winter cocktails that bring the heat.

When asked to define a winter cocktail, Jason Williams says it

should generate a sense of warmth. “I don’t necessarily mean the

temperature, but the flavours and sensations that psychologically

make people feel more comfortable and fuzzy on the inside,” he says.

Cool-season drinks tend to be sweet and rich, evoking dessert-

like characteristics. “Baking spices or stewed fruit, chocolate,

vanilla and caramel are perfect for winter-style cocktails,” says

“Anything aged in a wooden barrel for a long period of time is perfect for winter cocktails because you’re going to have an inherent sweetness from the spirit.”

– Jason Williams

Williams. “Cinnamon is probably the most common. If you drink

a cocktail and the first thing you smell is nutmeg or cinnamon, it indicates it is going to be a warming cocktail.”

Certain spirits and liqueurs can also enhance and complement

such flavours. Williams tips dark barrel-aged spirits as a must.

“Anything aged in a wooden barrel for a long period of time

is perfect for winter cocktails because you’re going to have an

inherent sweetness from the spirit,” he says. “Particularly when it comes to American whiskies or rums because they have a big sugar base. The volatile spirit interacts with the wood over a number of years and takes on its characteristics.”

June 2022 | 27

DRINKS // Winter cocktails Any dark spirit can fit the bill, with common

examples seen in quintessential cocktails. “Winter cocktails are traditionally dark spirit-forward Chinotto

Old World

is made

Ways is

from bitter

$24 at

orange

Apollonia

Godfather or a Rusty Nail, which all have a dark

perfect winter flavours,” says Williams. “They’re

spirit with a liqueur,” says Williams. “Other famous cocktails are literally hot drinks such as a Hot

punch when heated up.”

liqueur is

highball

crafted with

uses

macadamia

strawberry

nuts and

gum

wattleseed

Apollonia’s cocktail menu is geared towards

have to be high in alcohol content. “Amaros have

quite sweet, herbal and honeyed, so we lengthen

them with fresh citrus, a little bit of strawberry and some eucalyptus to brighten it up. The drink is still quite dark, herbal and moreish, which is what you might expect from winter flavours, but it’s in a tall low-alcohol application.”

Presentation is integral to building any

classic Italian-style drinks that have been tailored

cocktail, no matter the season, and choosing

Manhattan, which has a peppery foundation and

“Glassware is important for winter cocktails

to reflect the season. An example is the chinotto

uses a house chinotto-flavoured sweet vermouth.

“We do a little twist on it with American rye whiskey as the base and then we use dried

native Australian pepperberry,” says Williams.

The chinotto is reduced with vermouth before

it’s combined with a juniper-based amaro from

Never Never. “You’ve got lots of spice, dark citrus and aged spirits blended together in a spirit-

forward cocktail,” says Williams. “We also add a

the right glassware is part of the process.

because it can also add some comfort,” says

Williams. “If you have a nice whisky on a big

block of ice or an Old Fashioned, it will come in a double Old Fashioned glass and have a heavy

base or a cut pattern. It’s quite thick and sturdy and indicative of what you’re drinking. You

know it’s going to have a warming effect on the body and the mind.”

few dashes of a homemade tincture.”

Whether it’s a classic cocktail or a bespoke

addition to the menu, is another example.

bartenders to experiment with heavier spirits

The Old World Ways, which is a recent

The drink also uses American whiskey as a

foundation. “It’s basically a macadamia chocolate and orange Old Fashioned,” says Williams. “We

use Brookie’s Mac, which is a macadamia liqueur 28 | Hospitality

On the opposite end of the spectrum is an amaro

highball that proves a good winter cocktail doesn’t

two-ingredient cocktails such as a Whisky Mac, a

all quite spirit-forward cocktails and really pack a

The amaro

liqueur from South Australia.”

Old Fashioneds, Manhattans and even simple

Toddy, hot buttered rum or Blue Blazer; they’re

Brookie’s Mac

from Byron Bay, and some Australian orange

creation, winter is the perfect time for

and rich flavour profiles. A cool-season cocktail

can be anything from a whisky-centric sipper to a drink that highlights citrus season or spices — the options are endless.

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PROFILE // Taylor Cullen

30 | Hospitality

PROFILE // Taylor Cullen

Taylor Cullen

Cool, calm and collected is the name of the game for Chiswick’s head chef.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Steven Woodburn and Benito Martin

TAYLOR CULLEN WAS washing dishes at his

family’s restaurant in New Zealand at the age of 11. By the time he turned 14, he was working

says Cullen. “It made me realise I could work in breakfast, casual or fine-dining places.”

It was during this time Cullen received a

on larder and prep. The hospitality kid grew

valuable lesson from chef Corey Hume, who

chef and a mum as a front-of-house whiz, which

for good. “He taught me how to study,” says

up in the thick of the industry with a dad as a

made the move from school to catering college

(while doing 40 hours a week at the restaurant) a familiar but nonetheless exciting step.

Cullen has worked in almost every type of

venue over the years and has now settled into the head chef role of Matt Moran’s Chiswick

would go on to shape his approach to cooking Cullen. “Whether it was through books or recipes from other chefs, he taught me how to break

them down and put them in context so you’re not copying and creating your own recipes.

It’s something I’ll never forget.”

Developing a broad skill set served the chef

restaurant in Sydney’s Eastern Suburbs. It’s here

well during his travels through Europe alongside

cooking ethos thanks to the venue’s signature

across France, Spain and Portugal. “I later

where you’ll experience his vegetable-centric — and abundant — kitchen garden.

The chef speaks to Hospitality about learning

the ropes at Luxury Lodges, putting paddock-

to-plate into practice and making his mark on a restaurant celebrating a decade in business.

After ticking off catering college, Taylor Cullen

snagged a job alongside Head Chef Jane Tibble

Island — for two years. “The lodges are great for chefs who want to learn how to do everything

because you run breakfast, lunch and dinner and you’re catering to a wide range of customers,”

essentially the closest thing to what I grew up in as a kid.”

– Taylor Cullen

chef later made his way back to Australia and

joined the kitchen of the now-shuttered Bridge

Room in Sydney under Ross Lusted. “I was there

for six months before it closed and then the head chef role at Paperbark came up.”

Paperbark was the city’s only fine-dining plant-

to putting vegetables first when meat was still

at another lodge — Blanket Bay in the South

restaurant that’s

before I went to Costa Rica,” says Cullen. The

started at the luxury hotel as a demi chef before then returned to New Zealand to work as a CDP

neighbourhood

moved to America and became a private chef

based restaurant at the time (2018), with the

working his way up to chef de partie (CDP). He

a really cool

his brother, with the pair cooking in venues

at Longitude 131° just outside Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa National Park in the Northern Territory. Cullen

“I thought it was

venue remembered for its innovative approach dominating menus. Cullen worked at the Waterloo venue until he was presented with another

overseas opportunity. “I went to Los Angeles and

ran the Bondi Harvest restaurants and was about

to open a spot in Milan, Italy, but COVID-19 hit at the wrong time,” he says. “We were six days from opening and I had to come home.”

June 2022 | 31

PROFILE // Taylor Cullen World events resulted in Cullen’s return to Sydney and

the kitchen of Ross Lusted, with the chef taking on a gig at Woodcut at Crown before Solotel came knocking. “During the next lockdown, Chiswick rang, and I was like, ‘Yeah sweet, let’s go’.”

Besides a brief stint shucking oysters and slicing sashimi

at North Bondi Fish to extend a holiday, joining Chiswick marked the first time Cullen had worked for Solotel. But

the restaurant wasn’t unchartered territory for the Cullen family. “My brother and his partner have both worked at

Chiswick before,” he says. “My brother and I would come here every year for our Christmas dinner, and I thought it was a really cool neighbourhood restaurant that’s

essentially the closest thing to what I grew up in as a kid.”

Due to restrictions, Cullen’s head chef appointment last

year didn’t come with the usual trial or team meet and

greet. “I was producing a menu without having stepped

foot in the kitchen until we were a couple of weeks away from opening,” he says. “So, I just threw myself in the deep-end.”

Taking on the leadership position of a kitchen is a challenge for a chef of any calibre, especially when it comes to

producing menus that remain within an established venue’s parameters while reflecting a personal cooking style.

But Cullen’s pared-back principles are a natural fit with

Chiswick’s ethos, which could be described as home-

style, rustic food you’d eat at home, but probably couldn’t replicate. And while the chef is playing by the rules,

he’s stayed true to his own style with dishes that largely

revolve around vegetables. “Chiswick was more of a meat and three-veg sort venue, and we have really pushed it to have more plant-based options,” says the chef. “It’s more sustainable and vegetables have such a big range; there

are so many interesting things you can do with them, and I want to show people that.”

32 | Hospitality

“I’m trying to create a team environment without the hostility of old-school kitchens.” – Taylor Cullen

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PROFILE // Taylor Cullen It’s a notion that’s reflected in a capsicum

work for yourself, you don’t get that. He’s happy

it’s seasoned with fermented lemon juice and

honest if a dish doesn’t work, which I really like.

dish, which sees the vegetable roasted before olive oil. “We take lemons off the tree, salt

them for one week and then we juice the whole

to give credit where it’s due or be completely You can’t get past honesty — it’s important.”

fruit to get a cloudy, fermented lemon juice,”

They say you don’t have to do much when you

simple roasted capsicum and creating a really

more relevant for Chiswick, which is one of

says Cullen. “It’s little things like taking a

interesting flavour profile. I approach vegetables with the thought process of how we can make

them as interesting as possible while keeping the integrity of the whole ingredient.”

Another example is an ocean trout dish from

the autumn menu, which was a nod to Cullen’s

time with Ross Lusted. “He taught me that things can be burnt without being burnt, so we had a piece of ocean trout that was seared skin-side

down in the pan until it was charred,” says the chef. The dish was teamed with wood-fired

cabbage doused in anchovy butter and garnished with garden nasturtiums and marigolds. “The

cabbage was smoky and it was so simple next to

the fish, but so tasty. It’s always the simple ones.”

One of the perks of working at Chiswick has

got to be having access to Matt Moran, who

gives the greenlight for each dish that makes

the menu. “He tastes everything with six other people from Solotel and it’s great to get that

feedback,” says Cullen. “Sometimes when you 34 | Hospitality

have good produce, and the adage couldn’t be the only restaurants in the city with a kitchen garden. It’s a perk that provides endless

inspiration to Cullen, who spends plenty of time alongside resident Gardener Peter Hatfield. “I’m always talking to Pete about what I’d like to

plant and what’s growing,” says the chef. “It’s not big enough to sustain vegetables for the

entire restaurant, but we had 340kg of cherry tomatoes which we used during summer and

we grew bronze fennel for a carpaccio dish. We

The kitchen garden

Vegetable-

produced

centric

340kg

dishes are

of cherry

on the

tomatoes

rise at the

during summer

restaurant

grow a lot of herbs for the restaurant. And then it’s about getting my chefs out into the garden and teaching them what I know.”

Sharing knowledge and cultivating a

productive and motivating work environment is key to Cullen’s management style and is

something the team has widely appreciated

and responded to. In an industry plagued with staff shortages, Cullen is all too aware of the

challenges that come with running a kitchen,

which makes him all the more appreciative of

Chiswick

Cullen plans

turned

to launch an

10 this

off-the-grid

year

sustainable lodge in New Zealand

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PROFILE // Taylor Cullen Chiswick’s brigade. “I was lucky enough to be given

such a solid team; we have a lot of long-standing staff,” he says. “Chiswick is like a little family and people stick around, which is nice.”

Recognising hard work and promoting chefs is

part of workplace wellbeing, and the results speak

for themselves. “The team works really hard for me

because they see [the situation] as, ‘This person gave me a shot’, and it’s really important to nurture those people,” he says. “I’m more chill than chefs I have

worked for; I’m trying to create a team environment

without the hostility of old-school kitchens. In saying that, I learned so much in those kitchens, so I’m torn

about it because you’re in the trenches, but Chiswick

isn’t really like that. People turn up to work happy and I find you get the same results from sitting someone

down and having a chat about how they are and why they’re making mistakes rather than yelling at them during service.”

Cullen has recently made it to the seven-month mark of his tenure at Chiswick, with the itchy-footed chef committing to around two and a half years when

he accepted the role. “I’m hoping to go back to New

Zealand and open a lodge on a farm in the middle of nowhere,” he says. “It will have greenhouses, hives,

animals and provide 85 per cent of its own food — it’s a chef’s dream to do that.”

In the meantime, Cullen is riding the ebbs and flows

that come with running Chiswick, which celebrated

its 10th birthday last month with a throwback menu.

“The staff told me all their favourite dishes over the

years, so I reworked them to suit my style of cooking,” he says. “I’m focused on Chiswick for the next year

and a half and then I’ll be working with people in New Zealand. It’s cool to know where you’re going and to have a goal.” ■ 36 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Calzone

In the fold Deep-fried or baked, there’s a calzone for everyone.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

“You want those little charred bits and blisters because they’re the best parts.”

– Tony Percuoco

CALZONE HAILS FROM Naples, Italy,

Calzone has been around since the

to eat on the go. While it’s not the most

for Italians to get rid of leftover

and was quizzically created as a food takeaway-friendly snack that comes to mind, calzone, which translates

to ‘pants legs’, provided a satisfying

solution to those who favoured using their hands instead of cutlery.

The half-moon pizza riff has

experienced various bouts of

popularity over the years, largely

ingredients. There are two types of

calzone: the larger, oven-baked version called al forno (from the oven) and

its smaller, crispy counterpart known as fritto. “The original is cooked in a wood-fired oven, while the fritto is deep-fried,” says Lucio De Falco.

The chef describes calzone al forno

thanks to screentime on The Sopranos,

as the “cousin of the Margherita pizza”

who appreciate something familiar,

to Neapolitan traditions at his two

but it’s been a must-order for those yet different at Italian restaurants.

Hospitality speaks to Tony Percuoco

from Ristorante Tartufo and Lucio De

Falco from Lucio’s Pizzeria about their experiences growing up with calzone, how it compares to its round sibling

and why the upscale pizza pocket will always have a place on their menus.

38 | Hospitality

18th century and presented a means

and makes his version according

Sydney restaurants. “People had the idea of taking a pizza, folding it in

half and cooking it,” he says. “It’s a

folded pizza base made using common ingredients such as ricotta and salami, which match so well together. The

fillings have changed over time, and

each region uses alternate ingredients.

difference between calzone and pizza comes

little bit.”

stretch it a lot to make sure the dough doesn’t

but there’s nothing wrong with adding a

Over in Brisbane, Chef Tony Percuoco has

been a long-time fan of calzone and grew up

down to stretching and structure. “We don’t become too thin,” explains the chef.

Ristorante Tartufo makes dough that

eating them in Naples. “I ate them all the time,

undergoes a slow fermentation process that

are only two places in Italy that specialise in

get to work. “We put the dough on a marble

so I had to put it on my menu,” he says. “There them: Naples and Puglia.”

Percuoco also sticks to the book when it comes

to making calzone al forno at Ristorante Tartufo.

“We make the traditional one with ricotta, ham

or salami and white pepper,” says the chef. “On

top, it gets parmesan, cheese, tomato and basil.”

The dough used to make calzone is no different to pizza’s and consists of just three ingredients: flour, yeast and water. De Falco opts for a Northern Italian flour and says the only

FEATURE // Calzone

The original also doesn’t have tomato sauce,

spans anywhere from 24–48 hours before chefs counter and push it down to make it as big

Chicory was one of

Ricotta

the original

is a

calzone fillings

must

ricotta, chicory or smoked meats, but the

The same

Calzone only

dough is

needs to be

ingredients are on top of each other, we

used to

cooked for

make pizza

two minutes

as a pizza,” says Percuoco. “You don’t want to overwork the dough.”

The fillings are layered in the middle of

the dough after it’s been stretched. It’s here where chefs can experiment with different ingredients such as scamorza, mozzarella, consensus is to keep it simple. “Once the

fold the dough over and make sure the two

June 2022 | 39

FEATURE // Calzone

“It’s a folded pizza base made using common ingredients such as ricotta and salami, which match so well together.”

– Lucio De Falco

sides stick together,” says De Falco, who also

in anything with chilli, but you might mix the

generous amount of cracked black pepper.

make it lighter,” says the chef. “You can use

adds tomato sauce inside the calzone and a

Once a half-moon shape has been formed,

tomato sauce is spread on top of the calzone

and topped with mozzarella, parmesan, fresh basil leaves and olive oil before it’s placed in the oven. Time is of the essence in relation

to cooking calzone, especially when the oven is hitting high temperatures. “We bake it for around two minutes and look for a golden

ricotta with some white pepper and milk to

other ingredients such as fior di latte, but you

always have a ricotta base.” Tomato sauce only goes on the outside of Percuoco’s calzone. “We always put the tomato on the top; if it goes

inside, the dough sucks it in, and the dough

needs to have a light consistency. Parmesan,

basil leaves and extra-virgin olive oil follow.”

Chefs fold the dough and close it with their

brown colour that’s a little darker than pizza,”

fingers, pinching the top to ensure some air

you want to make sure it has an extra 30–40

too much” without losing any of the filling

says De Falco. “The filling is quite intense, and seconds baking time so the ingredients melt

together and the dough is light, fluffy and not undercooked. The edges can be very doughy.”

Percuoco errs on the classic side for fillings,

and ricotta is always involved. “We never put 40 | Hospitality

can escape and the calzone “doesn’t blow up during baking. “We cook it in a gas oven at

400 degrees Celsius for around two minutes,” says Percuoco. “You want those little

charred bits and blisters because they’re the best parts.”

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FEATURE // Calzone While some restaurants serve calzone with an accompanying

dipping sauce, both Lucio’s Pizzeria and Ristorante Tartufo

forgo any accompaniments. “I serve it as is,” says Percuoco. “I’m a traditionalist.”

Committing to a baked calzone isn’t something you can do halfheartedly, and as De Falco says, “To eat a calzone, you really

need to feel like one; it’s quite rich and intense.” But calzone

fritto provides the same experience in a bite-sized application.

Lucio’s Pizzeria hosts dedicated fritto nights once a month. “We have a mobile deep-fryer made from copper that we put in the middle of the floor,” says De Falco.

The same dough and ingredients are used to make the fritto,

but its flavour profile is very different thanks to the cooking

method. “We fry them in vegetable oil and they’re extremely popular,” says De Falco.

Percuoco is considering bringing back fried calzone after a

successful stint on the menu a few years ago. “The only reason I took them off is because they take a bit of work, but I might

put them on again as a special,” says the chef. “There were three pieces as an entrée.”

Comparable to agnolotti or ricotta in size, Percuoco’s calzone

fritto was stuffed with ricotta and left to prove in the fridge before

being fried in oil at 190 degrees Celsius. “You cook them until they turn golden and then you can add some fresh tomato and basil or just eat them as is,” says the chef.

Whether you’re starting a meal with calzone or making it a

meal, the staple is an example of an evergreen creation that

combines tradition with simplicity; a notion that never gets old in the culinary world. ■ 42 | Hospitality

www.compostco nnect.org

FEATURE // Biryani

Go with the

grain Biryani has been a staple in India for centuries, but getting the rice-based dish right requires experience and patience.

WORDS Aristine Dobson

BIRYANI IS A mixed rice dish that is commonplace in India and has a lengthy history. Legend has it Mumtaz Mahal, the queen and wife of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, requested chefs make a nutritionboosting meal of meat and rice for malnourished soldiers on the battlefield. The royal kitchen added a combination of aromatic

spices and saffron to the ingredients before firing it up in a large pot over an open flame.

Alternatively, some believe an early version of biryani was brought

over to India by Turk-Mongol conqueror Timur in 1398. Whichever story you believe, biryani is a staple across India and the Middle

East. While the original will never lose its iconic status, chefs can

approach biryani with a number of approaches from switching up rice varieties to experimenting with different proteins, vegetables and accompanying breads.

Hospitality talks to Atta’s Harry Dhanjal and Biji Dining Room’s

Harry Mangat about spice combinations, key cooking techniques and the importance of biryani within Indian cuisine.

The name biryani comes from the Persian word birian, which

translates to ‘fried before cooking’ and birinj, which means ‘rice’. Head Chef and Owner of Atta Harry Dhanjal believes it is the most plausible point of origin. “If you go to any Iranian restaurant, biryani is one of the dishes that shines on the menu,” says the Melbourne-based chef.

44 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Biryani

“Biryani came to India a few centuries back and

that good when you make it in small batches; it

ruled India for thousands of years.”

to cook for hours so each grain of rice has flavour.”

was influenced by Mughals who came in and Although biryani is not technically from

needs to be for 100 people,” says Mangat. “It needs

India, the dish is a firm favourite and a staple at

Different regions in India have created their own

it’s pretty much a given you find biryani,” says

own unique markers and varying spice levels.

celebratory events. “If you go to any wedding, Dhanjal. “It’s such an everyday thing; it’s not

considered a luxury or a once-in-a-while dish.”

Restaurants in parts of India focus on

perfecting the dish, with families passing

down recipes that have been preserved over

generations. “If you go to cities like Hyderabad and Lucknow, there’s a biryani shop on every corner run by people who have had their

restaurants for 300 to 400 years,” says Harry Mangat from Biji Dining Room. “It’s not like

adaptations of biryani over time, each with their “There are two dominating biryani flavours: Lucknowi biryani comes from the northern

side of India and Hyderabadi biryani is from

the south of India,” says Dhanjal. “Hyderabadi

biryani is spicier and more pungent because it’s got a lot of chilli in it. It’s basically how South Indian food normally is anyways. Lucknowi

biryani has more dried fruit, a lot of saffron and yoghurt; it’s very aromatic.”

At Atta, Dhanjal makes biryani that is halfway

they’ve just been cooking biriyani for a couple

between the two and maintains a happy

10 years [because] their grandfather or great

hybrid way where we are respecting Australian

of years; they’ve been cooking it for the last grandfather started making it.”

Biryani is typically prepared in large quantities

over a long period of time. “I feel it doesn’t taste

medium when it comes to spice. “We’ve gone a

palates,” he says. “Not making it too spicy, which is more towards the Lucknowi biryani, but also not too sweet at the same time.”

June 2022 | 45

FEATURE // Biryani

“I definitely like it milder because you can taste everything and the flavour of the basmati rice.”

– Harry Mangat

Mangat doesn’t often make traditional biryani

at his Melbourne restaurant, preferring to cook the dish at home. But the chef has created a contemporary dish that takes cues from the

flavours of biryani. “I made a biryani rice cake

with slow-cooked lamb neck served with raita on the side, pickled daikon and fermented chillies,”

because “it’s long, light and has less starchiness to it”, says the chef. “Basmati by nature is not a

sticky rice; you can count the number of grains.

But it has enough starchiness to bind whatever meat you’re using.”

The rice is cooked 70 to 80 per cent of the

says the chef. “The flavours of biryani are in the

way before it’s taken off the heat. “It has to be

it was still nice and gooey inside.”

won’t get a fluffy biryani.”

rice cake, which I pan fried to make it crispy, but

al dente,” says Mangat, “if you overcook it, you

Biryani can be cooked one of two ways: pakki

The overall profile of biryani is determined by the

ingredients while pakki is made from pre-

garam masala in-house, which is found in a range

or kacchi. Kacchi biryani is cooked from raw

cooked and parboiled ingredients. “When you’re running a restaurant, pakki is easy to deliver,” says Dhanjal. “Does it make a big difference

taste-wise? Personally, I don’t think so; it’s just a method of cooking and it’s what we do.”

Basmati rice is parboiled and chosen for its

durability during the cooking process. Dhanjal 46 | Hospitality

opts for India Gate Premium basmati rice

spice combinations used in the dish. Atta makes of dishes at the restaurant. “Garam masala is

made up of spices that are pungent and those that are aromatic with sweeter notes,” says Dhanjal.

“There’s green cardamom and black cardamom;

green is sweeter and black is on the pungent side.

Then you’ve got cloves, white pepper, black pepper and dehydrated flowers for aroma.”

www.peerles sfoodservice .c

om.au

FEATURE // Biryani Dhanjal also adds fresh green and red chillis

using a ratio of 80 per cent green to 20 per cent red. Kashmiri chilli is another addition that

complements the rest of the spices. “Kashmiri chilli

Dhanjal adds ghee

Atta uses

to create

paneer for the

a level

vegetarian

of fat

biryani

has a tendency of oozing out a red colour, which makes the dish more colourful,” says Dhanjal.

Mellow spices can also be incorporated to

a common

recommends

addition to

Maharajah

biryani

basmati rice

48 | Hospitality

make a spice mix and rub that into the meat

with a bit of yoghurt and usually marinate it

overnight,” says Mangat. “I then cook the meat, which adds a lot of flavour.”

Traditionally, biryani is cooked in a large pot

blends cinnamon, cardamom, cumin, coriander,

are cooked on a stovetop or in an oven. The

what he refers to as “warm spices”. The chef

together. “I definitely like it milder because Mangat

halfway before they are added to the pot. “I

create a sweeter flavour, with Mangat using

black pepper, white pepper and Kashmiri chilli Dried fruit is

and vegetables, are cooked a little more than

you can taste everything and the flavour of the

basmati rice,” he says. “For me, spices are more

to complement a dish, meat or vegetable; it’s not about overpowering anything.”

The remaining ingredients, such as proteins

over hot coals, but most dishes made in a kitchen rice, meat, spices and toppings are all arranged in layers. “I start with a bit of meat and then

rice because it’ll stick at the bottom and give off

moisture,” says Mangat. “Then I add fried onions, vegetables and keep [building] layers, sprinkling a bit of water on each. I cook it on a really low heat, leaving it for 20 minutes or so.”

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FEATURE // Biryani

Atta’s chicken biryani Ingredients

Transfer to another bowl.

· Basmati rice

5. Take a cooking pot and

· Chicken Maryland fillets

start with a layer of chicken

· Greek yoghurt

and top with chopped

· Whole garam masala

coriander, mint, lemon juice,

· Ground garam masala

olive oil and fried onions.

· Turmeric and salt · Fresh mint and coriander · Saffron · Ginger and garlic · Lemon juice · Green chillies · Fried onions · Vegetable oil and ghee

“It’s such an everyday thing; it’s

normal curry is very small because the whole dish can’t be sloppy,” says the chef. “We reduce the curry and then we add the rice, saffron and dried fruit and mix it up in the pan.”

The restaurant uses a cooking technique called dum which is an

abbreviation for the Persian word dumpukht, meaning ‘air cooked’.

“The opening at the top of the clay pot is sealed by naan dough and the whole thing goes into the tandoor oven,” says Dhanjal, who lets

onions, lemon juice, saffron water and ghee.

· Warm water

tightly over it. Cook on a slow

· Carom seeds

flame for half an hour.

· Sugar

Bread mix method

Biryani method

mixture. “The ratio of onion and tomato gravy compared to a

top with remaining fried

aluminium foil and fit the lid

once-in-a-while dish.” – Harry Dhanjal

cooking all the ingredients in a pan with a tomato and onion

7. Layer remaining rice and

· Egg

· Butter

Smaller portions mean layering isn’t necessary, with Dhanjal

chicken layer again.

8. Cover the pot with

· Milk

serves two people, with each clay pot making 500–600 grams.

chicken and repeat the

· Plain flour

not considered a luxury or a

Cooking times vary depending on portion size. Atta’s biryani

6. Spread the rice over the

1. Finely slice onions and fry until crisp and light golden brown.

2. Combine chicken with ground garam masala, saffron, Greek yoghurt, salt and chopped green chillies.

Marinate for four to five hours.

3. Rinse basmati rice until clear. Soak rice in warm water

1. Combine plain flour, carom seeds, sugar, milk, egg and warm water in a bowl and knead well until the dough is soft. Rest at room temperature for two to three hours and form dough balls.

2. Use a rolling pin to roll the dough balls into a circle (not too thin and even on all sides).

3. Take small oven-friendly bowls and transfer the rice and chicken.

for half an hour. Cook rice

4. Cover the bowl with the

until 70 to 80 per cent done

bread, pressing down the

and drain. Rest rice for at

corners against the bowl.

least half an hour.

5. Brush the bread with egg

There are many different avenues to take when it comes to making

4. Transfer the chicken with

and butter and bake in the

biryani, with chefs encouraged to test out a raft of ingredients.

the marinade into a pot and

oven at 180 degrees Celsius

“You can add anything; it doesn’t have to be meat, it can just be

cook until 80 per cent of the

for five minutes.

potatoes,” says Mangat. “I heard somewhere that India is a country

way until the marinade and

6. Serve biryani with fresh

of countries and you find new things in every place. It’s amazing

masala is golden brown.

lemon and Greek yoghurt.

each pot cook for five to seven minutes. “The rice gets steamed, but the steam can’t escape, so it cooks the chicken or the lamb so they have bite.”

one location has so many different variations of biryani.” ■ 50 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Babka

Babka Make it, twist it, bake it.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Simon Schluter and Kimmy Liew

BABKA REPRESENTS THE best of both worlds:

homemade baked good mums or grandmas

baked good is a diminutive of the word baba,

“It’s a slash between a brioche-style bread and a

bread and cake. The braided and often sweet (grandmother) and is of immense cultural

significance within Jewish communities. Babka

would make alongside challah,” says Azoulay.

cake, so you could describe it as a bread cake.”

Azoulay initially began making babka for

has been around for more than 200 years and

himself during lockdown before friends started

1950s when European-centric bakeries in the

long for word to spread and for Babka Boi to

largely remained under the radar until the

US began making them. It led to an evolution

of sorts, which saw babka go from byproduct to main character.

Early forms of babka were made from leftover

challah dough that was rolled up and filled with jam or cinnamon. But modern takes have seen chefs and bakers dial up the butter, go heavy

on the Nutella and add textural contrast with crumbles and streusels.

Avi Azoulay says he didn’t choose babka, it

chose him, with the fateful match leading to

the creation of online business Babka Boi. The chef defines what babka is, charts the labour-

intensive process it necessitates and reveals why all chefs have a love–hate relationship with it.

asking for their own loaves to try. It didn’t take launch to the public. “I started getting noticed by some people in the food world and all of a

sudden everyone wanted babka, so I thought I

may as well go with it,” says the chef. “I wanted to create my own version of a good babka and put it out into the world.”

Babka Boi is still in business, with Azoulay

balancing making babka with other culinary

endeavors. The chef dedicates three days a week

to the process thanks to the considerable amount of time required for each step of the babka-

making journey. “It doesn’t really matter if you’re making five or 20 babkas,” he says. “I’ll make

the dough on Wednesday, bake on Thursday and deliver on Friday.”

Avi Azoulay grew up in Israel where babka

It took around six test runs for Azoulay to find

it’s nostalgic,” says the former Miznon chef.

of ingredients and measurements from many

was a staple on Shabbat morning. “For me,

“It’s a special day, so you don’t have a normal breakfast; you have coffee and cake in the

morning.” Babka is made from the same dough as a lot of other things and was traditionally

rolled out and filled with cinnamon sugar or

jam. “It didn’t have any butter and was just a 52 | Hospitality

the right babka recipe, which is a combination sources. The chef says a quality babka is

determined by several factors that span from

adequate proving to temperature management.

“It took me some time before I found the

right texture and crumb I was looking for that reminded me of my time living in Israel,” he

FEATURE // Babka

June 2022 | 53

FEATURE // Babka

“When you leave it in the fridge, it slows down the rising process, which gives the dough better flavour and makes rolling easier.”

– Avi Azoulay says. “I wanted lots of layers and for it to be dense and light at the same time.”

Babka dough is relatively simple and is made

from flour, eggs, salt, butter, sugar, water, salt and yeast. Azoulay preferences plain flour over bread flour for its softness and ability to create a cakelike texture. The chef combines the ingredients

with vanilla and orange or lemon zest, but holds back on the butter at first. “It all goes into the

mixer and gets kneaded for 10–20 minutes until you get a nice, smooth, elastic dough,” says the

chef. “You let it rest for 10 minutes and then I add the butter in cube by cube until it’s incorporated.”

The dough is then put into containers and left

to undergo a 24-hour cold rise in the fridge. “It

has to be fermented between the first and second

stages of rising,” says Azoulay. “Some people don’t let it go as long, and it ends up being dense and a

bit raw. There’s a fine line between it being underor overproved, so you have to be careful. When

you leave it in the fridge, it slows down the rising

process, which gives the dough better flavour and makes rolling easier.”

Once the dough has doubled in size, Azoulay portions it into 500g pieces and rolls it into

a rectangle before the filling is added. Babka

Boi’s signature is chocolate hazelnut which sees

Nutella teamed with dark chocolate chips, roasted hazelnuts and a house brown butter chocolate

paste. Other flavour options cover apple cinnamon and cinnamon streusel, but restraint is key no

matter the interior. “If there’s too much filling, the

dough can’t handle the weight and it can collapse,” says Azoulay. “By the time the filling goes in, it weighs around 900g.”

54 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Babka

The dough is then rolled into a long cylinder and cut

down the middle before it’s braided. “I like to twist the

dough and find that you can see the layers from the top by cutting it open,” says Azoulay, who goes on to place the babka in a baking tin to prove again. “The second

rise can take anywhere between one and a half to three hours,” says Azoulay. “I like to put it in the oven with

a pot of steaming water at the bottom. You’re looking

for it to grow in size by at least one-third, but not more than half; you want it to be quite puffy and pillowy.”

Baking is one of the core pressure points of making

babka, with the bread cake often appearing to be fully cooked before it actually is. Time and temperature varies according to what’s inside, with Azoulay

starting the chocolate babka at 180 degrees Celsius

before dropping it down to 160. “The chocolate one gets dark quite quickly and it looks done within 20 minutes,” says the chef. “But it can take between 30–40 minutes before it’s baked through. I like a

crispy top and for it to be quite dark, so it has contrast when you take it out of the tin.”

After the babka comes out of the oven, it gets hit

with an extra boost of sweetness and any additions such as praline, crumb or streusel. “They also get

doused in sugar syrup to seal in the moisture, which provides a nice shine.”

Azoulay’s babkas are cooked in single-use baking

tins, with the loaves requiring a number of hours

to completely cool down. “They need around four

hours to fully cool,” says the chef. “I leave them in the tins because babkas can unravel if they’re not cooked properly.”

Azoulay used Chocolate

Gippsland

hazelnut is

Jersey’s

Babka Boi’s

butter for a

OG flavour

collaboration

The last (and best) part of making babka is eating it.

Azoulay offers two suggestions that both start with

cutting a thick slice around 1–2cm in size. “The first is

putting it in the microwave for 5–10 seconds to soften up the butter and the chocolate, which brings the

flavours to the front,” he says. “You can serve it with

some ice cream or cream. The second is frying it with butter like French toast and cooking it on both sides

until it caramelises and then finishing with some sea The babka

You can order

undergoes

loaves on

two proving

Instagram

sessions

@babka_boi

salt on top.”

The mammoth loaves, which almost tip 1kg in size,

also have a long shelf life. “They can last up to five

days on the bench if wrapped properly,” says Azoulay.

“You can also freeze them.”

Azoulay is part of a small group of people who focus

on making babka in Australia, with many chefs trying their hand at the baked good only to realise just how

laborious it is. “Everyone has a love–hate relationship with babka,” he says. “One day it works out perfect,

and the next it’s different. It’s very fickle and you need

to get every step right along the way. But nothing beats the feeling when you make a good one.” ■ 56 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Pub restaurants

58 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Pub restaurants

Upping the ante Publicans and chefs are rewriting a new chapter for pub restaurants.

WORDS Aristine Dobson PHOTOGRAPHY Nikki To; James Adams and Jessie Ann for The Bob Hawke Beer & Leisure Centre

A TYPICAL PUB menu covers all the classics from chicken

parmi to burgers, and of course, steak night. The staple dishes are straightforward, unfussy and have been treasured by

the Australian public for years. But things began to change

back in 1991 when the term gastropub was coined in the UK,

referencing a venue that offered high-quality food a step above your average schnitzel and chips.

Pubs and breweries in Australia have adapted the concept,

with venues across the country putting their own spin on

elevated pub grub that draws customers in as much as their booze offerings. Hospitality talks to the Waterloo Inn’s Zac

Green and The Bob Hawke Beer & Leisure Centre’s Nathan

Lennon and Nicholas Wong about creating unique experiences that appeal to a wide market.

Head Chef Zac Green teamed up with his wife and business partner Alex Sumner last year to give the Waterloo Inn a

new start. At first glance, it looked like a textbook pub, but the pair saw the potential to create a casual drinking and

dining destination in Swansea, Tasmania. “It was meticulously maintained, but had no customers,” says Green. “There was a

beautiful pool table, original bingo-style leather chairs, terrible June 2022 | 59

FEATURE // Pub restaurants

artworks and curtains and an original menu board. It was a weird prospect to take it over and we had no real expectations, but then something clicked for the general clientele.”

Customers were no doubt intrigued by the menu, which is

described as “unpretentious dining” and “food you want to eat

without being tripped up too much”. Patrons rarely see the same dish twice, and Green wouldn’t have it any other way. “Our best

menus are designed at the eleventh hour,” he says. “A dish or two

will change depending on what we run out of and whether I’ve got something new to move on to.”

Seasonality plays a big role in Green’s approach to cooking.

For the most part, ingredients are sourced from local Tasmanian

producers. “I generally try to stick to Tasmanian produce,” says the chef. “I’m definitely inspired by the seasons and what is available locally as well as what’s growing in my own garden.”

An example is a dish that sees eggs from Green’s chickens

topped with a leek vinaigrette. “The leaks were donated from a friend who had them growing amongst her asparagus and she treated them as weeds,” says the chef.

The beer battered oysters have also had their time in the

spotlight, with the dish inspired by other gastropubs. “I used to

go to a bar in Melbourne called The Last Jar,” explains Green. “It’s an Irish pub and the food was amazing. There would always be

something like rabbit or pork trotters and you could get Guinnessfried battered oysters. At some point, I thought it’d be good to do a battered oyster and things progressed from there.”

Gastropubs are ever-present in Sydney, but The Lucky Prawn at The Bob Hawke Beer & Leisure Centre in Marrickville has

turned the Euro-centric concept on its head. Hawke’s Brewing Co.

opened a restaurant and pub earlier this year with the intention of

creating a multifaceted experience for visitors. “As a beer company, a sense of home is incredibly important,” says Co-Founder Nathan Lennon. “Essentially, it’s a place to not only brew beer, but where people can come and drink it straight from the source.”

In collaboration with business partner David Gibson, Lennon

brainstormed food concepts that would work with the venue.

“We were initially thinking food trucks like every other brewery,” he says, “but when you consider 200 to 300 people being in the

“We are honest in our approach to this style of food, simply because we love eating it so much ourselves.”

– Nicholas Wong

venue, food trucks start to become challenging [when it comes to] service. What story does that allow you to tell apart from

community engagement? It made us reconsider and take control of our food and [create] a really clear narrative.”

Soon after, the pair came up with an idea that would align with

the Hawke’s brand — a Chinese bistro. “It didn’t take David and I long to land on a regional Chinese Australian bistro offering

because it felt incredibly authentic to the 1980s, which is what

we are representing,” says Lennon. “It’s super nostalgic and felt

almost as Australian as anything else we could think of in terms of our own experiences growing up.”

The venue brought on Nicholas Wong (ex-Cho Cho San and

CicciaBella) as head chef of The Lucky Prawn. The menu is

reminiscent of what you would find at a Chinese bistro in a local

bowling club and includes dishes such as prawn toast, sang choy bao, wontons and sweet and sour pork. “A good variety of menu 60 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Pub restaurants items balance light and fresh ingredients with

ours, so we’re happy to showcase their wines.

in our approach to this style of food, simply

the area just as the food is.”

a hint of nostalgia,” says Wong. “We are honest because we love eating it so much ourselves.”

Wong sticks to Cantonese dishes when

it comes to the menu, with the restaurant sourcing select ingredients from local

businesses in Marrickville. “We get the bread for the prawn toast from across the road,”

says the chef. “The dumplings are made by Lai Shing Dim Sum Factory (which is only 200m

from the Leisure Centre); our fermented fried bread used to mop up the XO pippi sauce is

We try and tie the whole [list] into being local to

Beer is of course the drink of choice at Hawke’s, and in the spirit of the late Prime Minister Bob Hawke himself, nothing goes better with beer than a Chinese meal. “Chinese food matches

really well with beer,” says Lennon. “Dishes like hot numbing chicken wings get your mouth

watering because it’s a mix of saltiness and spice, which makes you want to grab a lager on tap.”

Many people go to a brewery taproom for

a by-product of Brickfields next door and our

the sole purpose of drinking beer, but Hawke’s

top-notch vegetables.”

Prawn. “Your expectation when you create a

chefs frequent neighbouring Asian grocers for

Besides the food, the main drawcard of a pub is

its beverage line up. At the Waterloo Inn, natural wines complement the culinary approach.

“Natural wines are expressions of particular

seasons, grapes, vineyards and winemakers that

capture a time and a place,” says Green. “They’re

provides the experience and more at The Lucky taproom attached to a brewery is that everyone will go there because they’re a beer lover who wants to taste the beers on tap,” says Lennon.

“But we’ve found a really nice mix of patrons

who are coming in on the back of wanting to sit down for a Chinese meal at The Lucky Prawn.”

not generic products, and I feel like they match

Share plates surpassed being a trend in

not a long time.”

be said for the pub scene. The Waterloo Inn

the food, which is generally on for a short time, The wine list constantly evolves and

demonstrates the best makers in the state and

beyond. “We have a selection of local wines on

and a lot of them are from the East Coast,” says Green. “Some of them are from good friends of 62 | Hospitality

restaurants many years ago, and the same can and The Lucky Prawn both encourage diners

to split dishes and believe it fosters a sense of togetherness among patrons. “There’s a lot of

people that aren’t familiar with the concept of

sharing in this area,” says Green. “It’s amazing

“I’m definitely inspired by the seasons and what is available locally as well as what’s growing in my own garden.” – Zac Green

www.gffoodservice.com.

au

FEATURE // Pub restaurants

“It didn’t take … long to land on a regional Chinese Australian bistro offering because it felt incredibly authentic to the 1980s, which is what we are representing.” – Nathan Lennon how the idea has been prominent in Sydney

The expectations of pub restaurants have

really cut through here. I think the most heart-

locals the chance to try something new each

and Melbourne for a long time, but it hasn’t The Waterloo

40 per cent of

Inn have

vegetables at

run a Sunday

the Waterloo

roast set

Inn come from

menu

South Arm

warming thing I see is when people who have

come in once before get their heads around the concept of sharing food. And when they come in again, they start repeating things I said to them the first time around such as,

‘The menu changes’; ‘It’s seasonal’ and ‘It’s a one-chef kitchen’.”

When it comes to menu design, share

plates not only contribute to a table’s dining XO pippies

The word

and fermented

pub is

fried bread

short for

is $49 at The

public house

Lucky Prawn

time they come in to dine. “You’ve [still] got

your bread-and-butter Tasmanians who do a

pint and a parmi, but that’s not what we do and that’s okay because there’s another pub down the road that does exactly that,” says Green.

“But then there’s the other group of people who

retired in Swansea and want something different and interesting.”

Pub environments elicit a sense of familiarity,

experience, but to the overall vibe of a venue.

which is what Hawke’s leans into with ease.

parmi and eat it yourself,” says Lennon. “We like

out on the other side of the pandemic,” says

“When you go to traditional pubs, you get a

share plates because they’re connected to group

fun. It’s great to come in with a group of friends or family and order 10 things off the menu to share. I think, inherently, that’s what Chinese cuisine is all about.”

64 | Hospitality

changed for good, with the Waterloo Inn giving

“People want to be out in groups more coming Lennon. “It’s about creating an experience that facilitates people getting back out there with

friends. We give them a pub-style experience, but do it in our own way with our own storytelling.” ■

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WOMEN IN LIQUOR // Ciara Doran

Rising to the

top

Ciara Doran on creating experiencedriven venues and changing the industry from the inside out.

CIARA DORAN IS the co-owner of

events, which led a lightbulb moment

Sydney and a passionate force in the

the sector. “I never really thought it

WORDS Brydie Allen PHOTOGRAPHY Steven Woodburn

to go into hospitality when she was

The Doss House and Frank Mac’s in local bar scene. Doran didn’t plan

growing up in Ireland and actually

was possible for it to be a career, but I loved doing it,” she says.

After four years in the Greek

studied social science at university.

Islands, Doran moved to Australia to

around people and I liked helping

venue of her own one day. Eight years

“What I knew was that I loved being people,” she says.

Doran’s first taste of the industry

was during a stint working for an

events company in the Greek Islands.

The business would fly in DJs from around the world and host dance 66 | Hospitality

for Doran, who instantly clicked with

work in events and hoped to open a later, Doran had to decide whether

she was going to become a business owner in Australia or Ireland.

The pivotal decision came about

after Doran and her business partner came across what would become

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WOMEN IN LIQUOR // Ciara Doran

The Doss House. The pair built the concept of the bar around

the The Rocks site, moving ahead with the concept despite its many challenges — the building is heritage listed and didn’t

have a liquor licence at the time. “I wanted to throw myself into

something and really give it my all and see the results at the end,” says Doran. “We learned a hell of a lot during the process, and

I was right in following that gut feeling. [I knew it even more]

when we started to get positive feedback from customers and The Doss House started to become successful.”

As a self-described “sucker for punishment”, Doran opened

Frank Mac’s just a couple of doors down from The Doss House.

The venue is driven by Doran’s interest in identifying and building a concept, which she says has become a passion. So when the

space for Frank Mac’s came up, it was the perfect opportunity to

launch a gin-centric venue that complemented The Doss House’s whisky focus.

Doran’s idea of what hospitality should offer is driven by her Irish roots where pubs and bars are community spaces. It’s a notion Doran has replicated at The Doss House and Frank Mac’s. “I

wanted to bring the heart back into hospitality — that feeling of coming home,” she says.

Community is something Doran has noticed in the industry itself,

which she says has always felt inclusive and supportive, even for

someone who was new to the local bar scene when she opened The Doss House. The connection between different venues and workers in Sydney is something that has stood out for Doran, especially during the pandemic. “I don’t think there’s a whole lot of other

industries that have that camaraderie,” she says. “There is a definite community feel in the hospitality industry in Sydney. You can always depend on people from other bars.”

Building a community of likeminded people has been a key

element for Doran to get right on her journey as a bar owner. “I think the biggest challenge is surrounding yourself with a team that has the same vision,” she says. “When you have that, you

should count yourself as the luckiest person in the world. If you’re all on the same page, everything will flow really well.”

During her time running The Doss House and Frank Mac’s, Doran

has seen and experienced some common challenges women in the industry are faced with. “I feel as though women have to work a bit harder to be taken seriously,” she says.

Many of the examples Doran mentions revolve around the

often unconscious bias of patrons assuming she (or other female

bartenders) don’t have the same level of education about whisky as a male counterpart, with the spirit still stereotyped as a man’s drink. “If a group of men are asking about a particular whisky

or they’re looking for some options, I think a female bartender has to display their knowledge a little bit more,” says Doran.

“Unfortunately, the need to work harder is always there for

them because sometimes they’re not taken as seriously as men, especially in specialty areas. It’s still a massive challenge we’re all facing.”

One way bias can occur is through talking down to female

bartenders and using words such as ‘darling’ and ‘sweetie’ or 68 | Hospitality

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WOMEN IN LIQUOR // Ciara Doran

“This is the time to bring awareness to the challenges females experience in their industries.

It comes down to us speaking up and men listening.”

– Ciara Doran is the first thing,” she says. “I genuinely

believe that if a man has an unconscious bias, it’s not often meant in a disrespectful way. If the industry can bring awareness to it, first

and foremost, it lets men ask themselves, ‘Do

I do that?’ And then they become conscious of [their bias].”

It can even be something such as making an

assumption that a female staff member can’t

or won’t bring the bins in. “It’s about holding each other accountable,” says Doran. “It

doesn’t necessarily need to have an aggressive approach to it. I think people just have to

be educated on [their actions], so they will

think twice next time. This is the time to bring

awareness to the challenges females experience speaking up and men listening.”

but Doran is concerned the interactions happen

in her footsteps, Doran says it’s important to

whisky. Of course, it doesn’t happen all the time, more to female staff than male workers.

Another bias Doran has personally

experienced is people assuming she isn’t in

charge and must be the wife of the manager or the owner. “I’ve often handled scenarios where customers have asked if they can speak to my

manager, and when I’ve said I am the manager

and the licensee, they laugh or scoff at me,” she

says. “It’s unbelievable because men and women

have that attitude, which is quite confronting for me. It doesn’t shock me anymore, but it used to.

You have to work that little bit harder to even

gain the respect of your patrons and customers.”

Doran is calling for the industry to speak out

and educate both staff and patrons. “Awareness 70 | Hospitality

in their industries. It comes down to us

asking if a bartender knows anything about

In terms of advice for women looking to follow

surround yourself with the right people who will

support you and foster growth. Being open about goals and working out a plan to meet them is

also important. “A lot of people, but especially

women, say, ‘I want to be the general manager one day’ or ‘I want to open my own bar’,” says

Doran. “Find your voice — I love somebody with ambition because you’re going to put more time

into training them and bringing them up through the ranks because they’re committed. As women, we keep our thoughts and goals to ourselves a little bit instead of speaking up to [the team] you’re working with.” ■

This story was originally published as part of

The Shout’s Industry Women Spotlight series.

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Shirley Yeung

Shirley Yeung The venue manager of Perth’s Foxtrot Unicorn on her bartending career and co-founding a not-for-profit group.

I’VE ONLY BEEN behind the bar for five or six

Unfortunately, gender plays a role in the

years now, but I worked in every other position

industry. As a woman behind the bar, I’ve

being a barista and a kitchenhand. Moving on to

before you say anything to a customer. It kind of

in the industry before from waiting tables to

the next challenge was a natural progression.

When I stepped behind the bar, it [created]

passion and foresight; there was so much more to

learned you get judged and misinterpreted

boosted my confidence to do better, learn more and expand my knowledge.

Mix Haus was founded by myself, Pippa

learn and constant challenges. I realised there was a

Canavan from Mechanics Institute and Reid

Australia that made me feel welcome and at home.

what we wanted from the industry. Our core

bigger community and amazing support in Western Community plays a big role in shaping who

you are, and because the community in Perth is

so small and tightknit, it allowed me to open up.

I was part of the launch team at Foxtrot

Unicorn. There were four or five of us at the

start, and everyone else above me left to move

Günter. It formed [after] a conversation about mission is to connect and provide support for women and those who identify as female or

non-binary in the industry. Hosting safe spaces for them was important because we felt it was one of the main things lacking in the sector.

We provide free training and workshops, run

on to other projects, so I took on the role of bar

collaborations and host long-table dinners and

team as the business grew, so we expanded and

invite prominent females in our industry to

manager. We needed to add more people to the I became venue manager.

There’s a very big difference between

becoming a bartender and learning how to make

lunches that are open to the public. We also

speak on panels and have open conversations where they share their journeys.

We wanted to be able to have events where we

drinks to being on the floor and waiting tables.

could bring in fresh faces who can have a little

value to my life is confidence and realising that

we want. We want them to have a real passion

The biggest lesson that has added so much

my team was behind me if I made a mistake or something happened.

74 | Hospitality

glimpse of our community, what we do and what for the industry. ■

When I stepped behind the bar, it [created] so much passion and foresight.

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