Hospitality July 2019

NO.755 JULY 2019

MONIQUE FISO • VENUE ACCESSIBILITY • DURIAN • SCOTT PICKETT

CONTENTS // July

Contents JULY 2019

8

Regulars 6 // NEWS The latest in openings, books, products and more.

12

12 // BUSINESS PROFILE Aspiration and ambition are behind the hard-earned success of New Zealand chef Monique Fiso.

7 // PRODUCE Everything you need to know about durian.

16 // DRINKS Why you should take a second look at your tea offering.

8 // COLUMN Scott Pickett on his role as a mentor to young chefs.

24 // BEHIND THE SCENES The Butcher’s Block’s pandan waffle.

10 // BEST PRACTICE Get the upper hand on the delivery realm with tips from James Eling.

25 // EQUIPMENT We hone in on the pastry brush.

20

Features 18 // ACCESSIBILITY What’s your venue doing to make sure dining out is a positive experience for people with disability?

20 // AIRPORT VENUES Running an operation in an airport is a different kettle of fish, according to Salvatore Malatesta and Mike McEnearney.

26 // 5 MINUTES WITH …

Neptune head chef Hayden McMillan.

July 2019 | 3

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

FEED THE SOUL I just discovered the chicken laksa at Laksa King on Erskine Street and can confirm it’s an excellent lunch option. @annabellecloros

Meeting of the minds

NETFLIX & PANCAKES Caffe Bartolo’s Netflix and Pancakes cocktail is infused with pastry. @madeline.woolway

I DON’T KNOW about you, but 2019 has been

more. Tickets for the event are now on sale at

flying by for me. Not that I’m complaining,

hospleaders.com.au. I hope to see you there!

because it means the Hospitality Leaders

This issue, we interview acclaimed chef

Summit is on our doorstep. We will be hosting

Monique Fiso, look at how you can make your

the event on Monday 29 July at the Grand

venue more accessible to people living with

Ballroom in Randwick Racecourse and the

disability and delve into durian. Not to miss,

team has put together a stellar line up of

Scott Pickett’s column on working with young

more than 30 speakers.

chefs and a piece on how airport venues

Names including Christine Manfield, Justin

differ from standalone concepts.

North, Mitch Orr and Kylie Javier Ashton will grace the stage to talk about everything

Until next time,

from pioneering pop-ups to attracting and

Annabelle Cloros

retaining local staff, taking a venue from

Editor

FAMILY TIES Congratulations to chef Jessi Singh, who has recently opened the doors to Daughter In Law in Melbourne’s CBD. @hospitalitymagazine

Follow us

initial idea to bricks and mortar and much

@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock cblacklock@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymagazine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

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4 | Hospitality

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NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more.

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Omnia opens in Melbourne Acclaimed chef Stephen Nairn and award-winning bartender Orlando Marzo have teamed up to open Omnia in South Yarra under LK Hospitality. The pop-up concept doubles as a European bistro and a cocktail bar, with a 36-seat dining room and a garden bar located behind the restaurant. Nairn has designed a menu that draws on his classical training, with menu items including gougère with chive cream, and steak tartare with smoked egg yolk and pomme gaufrettes. There will be more than 150 Australian and international wines on the menu along with an impressive cocktail list influenced by the botanical theme of the bar.

Everything’s golden Sydney institution Golden Century has announced the name of its new restaurant which takes cues from the venue’s

Start the day right

signature dish, XO pippies. XOPP is slated to open in August in

Breakfast: The Cookbook

Darling Square’s The Exchange building, and will offer diners

Emily Elyse Miller

contemporary Cantonese cuisine. The 160-seat restaurant will

$65; Phaidon

also feature a bar where guests can order drinks, snacks and

Food writer, culinary consultant and

share plates. In other news, the Sussex Street location has

founder of BreakfastClub Emily Elyse

recently undergone a renovation to make way for private dining

Miller has penned a definitive guide to

space, Golden Century Wine Bank. goldencentury.com.au

the most important meal of the day.

Photography by Parker Blain

Breakfast features hundreds of sweet and savoury recipes from countries including Mexico, China, Scotland, Egypt and more (our own Bill Granger is a contributor).

Highlights include Chinese pineapple buns, Scottish morning rolls and huevos rancheros. au.phaidon.com

Bloody Shiraz Gin is back Four Pillars has released the 2019 edition of Bloody Shiraz Gin. Victorian Shiraz grapes

The Old Clare does winter

are steeped in Rare Dry Gin for eight weeks before the fruit is

The Old Clare Hotel has unveiled a raft of events and

pressed and blended with more

limited menus across A1 Canteen, Automata and Barzaari

gin to achieve an alcohol level

Chippendale. Automata will offer a three-course menu

of 37.8 per cent. The unfiltered

featuring some of the restaurant’s most-loved dishes for

and unfined gin can be enjoyed

$65, A1 will introduce a revolving $30 pasta and minimal

in cocktails or sipped solo.

intervention wine menu and Barzaari has put together the

Available at selected retailers

ultimate falafel plate for $20 per person. All the specials are

and bottle shops for $85

available until 31 August. Photography by Nikki To

(700ml). fourpillars.com.au

6 | Hospitality

Gloves should be worn when

PRODUCE // Durian

handling durian to avoid injury

Short spines cover the husk

Durian derives from the Old Malay language word dûrih, which means thorn

The arils are yellow in colour

Durian

Flesh is soft and smooth

It’s been labelled as the world’s smelliest fruit and is banned from public transport in some countries, but there’s just something about durian.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros ILLUSTRATIONS Elena Fombertaux Origins

metres high and have an open crown of

a green to brown husk covered in short spines

Durian is known as the ‘king of fruits’ and

branches that grow up the length of the

and should be handled with gloves to avoid

belongs to the genus Durio, which has 30

tree. The branches are covered in obovate-

injury. The arils (flesh) are yellow in colour and

recognised species and hundreds of varieties

oblong-shaped leaves that are evergreen,

contain seeds. The complex aroma of the fruit

across South-East Asia. It’s believed durian

with flowers growing in cymes (clusters) on the

varies according to species and ripeness,

originated in Borneo, with the first European

trunk and branches. Fruiting varies according

but has been likened to everything from

accounts documented in the 15th century.

to region, but durian fruits between November

rotten onions to roasted almonds. The flesh is

Venetian merchant Niccolo De’ Conti came

and February in the Northern Territory and

soft and smooth, similar to cream cheese in

across the fruit in Sumatra and compared its

between January and April in Queensland.

texture, with common flavour notes including

size to a watermelon.

The fruit is primarily cultivated in

Nets are commonly used to harvest durian,

caramel, chocolate, blue cheese and garlic.

which drop to the ground once ripe. The nets

Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia and Borneo,

prevent damage to the fruit and potential

Culinary uses

but was introduced to north Queensland

injury to workers. In some regions, young fruit

Durian is used in a wide range of savoury

in the 1970s. Commercial growing in

is cut from the tree and ripened in storage,

and sweet applications. Durian is commonly

Queensland and the Northern Territory

however selective harvesting requires great

consumed fresh and chilled, but also forms a

commenced in the same decade.

skill and knowledge.

core ingredient in modern (cakes, ice cream,

Growing conditions, harvest and storage

ripened and should be kept refrigerated.

ketan durian, ripe durian served with coconut

Whole fruit can last up to one week when

glutinous rice. The fruit can also be cooked

Durian grows best in tropical climates with a

kept between 5-10 degrees Celsius.

and is often used in curries, sauces and

Durian has a short shelf life once it has

minimum temperature of 23 degrees Celsius

crepes) and traditional desserts such as

soups. Durian flesh can be dried and made

and a maximum temperature of 33 degrees

Appearance and flavour profile

into chips, fermented, preserved, candied

Celsius. The trees require well-drained fertile

Durian grows from 15-30cm in length and

and turned into paste. The seeds can also

soils that are rich in nutrients and organic

12-15cm in width. The fruit is ovoid or round in

be consumed once cooked, and are often

matter. Trees typically grow between 27-40

shape and weighs between 1-3kg. Durian has

boiled, roasted, candied or fried. ■ July 2019 | 7

COLUMN // From chef to mentor

Future-proof Scott Pickett is one of Melbourne’s favourite sons, but his role as a mentor ranks highly on the chef’s long list of achievements.

WORDS Scott Pickett PHOTOGRAPHY Simon Shiff

I HAVE HAD really great mentors

we put support staff around them to make

expect things to be there but they’re not.

the chef I am today if those people didn’t

dealing with suppliers, working at costings

about variables and making sure you’re

throughout my career and I wouldn’t be

take me under their wings. It’s something I’m aware of and I feel a sense of

responsibility to help the next generation coming through — it’s important to give back in cooking and in life.

Peter Jarmer was my first chef and he

taught me all his skills and knowledge.

Andrew Summers was another one along

sure they’re setting up their formulas,

and costing rosters. I let them make their own decisions, but quite often I’ll pull

them aside and say, ‘That was a good call’, or I’ll tell them to think about things from a different perspective. I’ll give them a

brief and give them free rein, but I’m firm, too — I don’t take any shit.

with Bruno Cerdan, Philippe Mouchel,

I first did cooking competitions when I

Cooke. The one thing these people all have

that’s when I met Bruno Cerdan. I had

Rabih Yanni, Philip Howard and Donovan in common is that they gave me time and knowledge. I was a bit of a wild, young lad. I partied, I was late to work, I was

hungover or I overcooked a piece of fish, but they believed in me.

Those mentors have really shaped who I am and how I see things. I like to think about that when it comes to the young

chefs in my restaurants. They reach out to me for advice and we have an open

and honest relationship personally and

professionally. As much as I’m their boss, I like to be their friend as well. They’re the boss of their kitchen and I’m the boss of

the restaurant — I just make sure I don’t step on their toes too much.

Chefs aren’t trained to manage people

or costs — they’re trained to cook — so 8 | Hospitality

It’s about problem-solving and thinking

prepared for it. John was training at Estelle for six months and we would critique his dish. Every month we would have other

chefs come in and taste the dish and give us feedback and ideas. John came fifth

at the final and Jake Kellie [Burnt Ends,

Singapore] came second, so it was a great result for Australia.

was an apprentice with Peter Jarmer and

There’s a lot of talent coming through

already been to Bocuse d’Or to watch some

been a rule-breaker myself, but I’m starting

friends compete and Philippe Mouchel

said I should enter. I represented Australia in 2005, and four years ago, I jumped on as the coach to support the candidates

coming through. Bocuse led to S.Pellegrino asking me to be John Rivera’s mentor for the 2017–2018 Young Chef competition.

I have had the same experience, so I can explain it to the chefs who don’t know

and they’re breaking the rules. I’ve always to embrace a new level of freedom. I’m

steeped in traditional French cuisine with a modern twist, but the young chefs coming

up aren’t trained like that — they have the freedom to try interesting combinations

and new techniques. There’s a lot to learn from these chefs and I’d be a fool if I thought I knew it all.

For me, it’s an honour and a privilege to

about it or haven’t done it before. I had

be at this stage of my life and career where

he said that our job as mentors is to guide

responsibility to give back to the industry.

a chat with Thomas Keller at Bocuse and them, support them and give them the

tools to succeed, and I thought it was a great way to look at it.

Competitions are different to cooking in

a restaurant or hotel environment. There are different rules and set-ups and you

I can identify and appreciate that I have a If I didn’t have people who guided me at the start, I wouldn’t be the same chef I

am today. It’s about the community of the jacket — we’re a brigade. Anyone who

has the opportunity to be on the flip side should give back. ■

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BEST PRACTICE // Online ordering

A guide to maximising

online order profits Eight tips to consider when offering delivery at your venue.

WORDS James Eling SINCE THE 1950S, restaurants

which offers the convenience of

have been providing pick-up and

eating at home, in turn allowing

Use more than one online system

delivery services for customers

the restaurant to skip dealing

Online ordering systems can

wanting to experience great

with delivery personnel. Takeaway

close shop quickly. We have

restaurant food in the comfort

can scale well for kitchens that

already seen Delivery Hero and

of their own home. But over the

can sustain the throughput.

Foodora leave Australia abruptly,

past 10 years, large multinational

leaving restaurants scrambling

companies have entered the

Look at your pricing

Australian market, looking to

If Uber Eats or Deliveroo

place themselves between

are taking 35 per cent, you

restaurants and the customer.

should look at having different

Offer an ‘order direct and save’ campaign

The move has placed significant

pricing for customers ordering

Customers are loyal when they

pressure on margins, and some

through these channels. Some

are given loyalty discounts such

restaurants have closed after

restaurants have had success

as getting the tenth order free

accepting high numbers of

negotiating a lower rate of

after they order nine. The same

orders through these companies

commission and others have had

offer is provided by a number of

DELIVEROO

because they have been

a good experience increasing

online ordering services.

Its latest fundraising

shipping meals at a loss.

prices. One restaurant I spoke

to replace them.

The latest news from the big three players

round raised over AUD

of online ordering is more

cent and saw a decrease in

Focus on your dine-in experience

important than ever. The

order numbers, but retained the

The origin of the word

Deliveroo says the money

three main online ordering

same value by shipping each

restaurant is to restore the soul.

will be used to invest in its

aggregators in the Australian

order at a profitable price.

Some restaurants know this

London technology team

and do it very well. Enjoying the

and build new products.

Understanding the economics

with increased prices by 35 per

market are Deliveroo, Uber Eats

human interaction that comes

could help your venue get ahead

Leverage your POS or free restaurant online ordering systems

in the delivery game.

By using your POS or free online

be delivered.

and Menulog.

Consider these tips, which

ordering systems, you cut out

Amazon as a core investor.

with dining out is an integral part of the product that can’t The introduction of large

Think about food packaging

the middleman. Venues can

order aggregator companies

capture customer details and

has fundamentally changed

Some meals travel well and others

provide a better service, be

online ordering, but we are

don’t. Pizza travels really well,

it delivery, pick-up or both.

seeing restaurants across

but burgers and chips don’t as

Some restaurants are saving

Australia using some or all of

they can become messy and are

thousands of dollars every

these techniques to not only

difficult to keep warm. Remember,

month by doing this.

survive online ordering, but to

you don’t have to deliver your

$827 million and included

UBER EATS Backed by Uber, the longterm play could be to deliver meals autonomously with self-driving vehicles which would dramatically decrease delivery costs.

thrive on it.

Build your database

James Eling is a global

MENULOG

If you don’t get the customer’s

restaurant marketer and

Look at offering takeaway only

Owned by UK company Just

email address, they aren’t your

the host of Secret Sauce,

Eat, Menulog has begun to

customer. Your database is a gold

a restaurant marketing

offer delivery in conjunction

Some customers are happy to

mine for turning new customers

podcast specialising in venue

with online ordering.

pick up their food from a venue

into repeat customers.

profitability. ■

entire menu.

10 | Hospitality

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BUSINESS PROFILE // Monique Fiso

Monique Fiso Aspiration and ambition — not expectations — are behind the hard-earned success of Monique Fiso.

WORDS Madeline Woolway

MONIQUE FISO WAS always going to

thinking, “I know what I want to do, I

sights on kitchens outside New Zealand.

would go this way: TV shows, cookbooks,

an attitude that’s defined Fiso’s career.

chance conversation with a supplier led to

were not in her sights when she left

“I had high aspirations and ambitions,

suggested Fiso make the most of her

Cookery and Patisserie at the Wellington

thought, ‘I’m never going to reach that’,”

be a chef, but she never expected things

opening a restaurant and critical acclaim school early to complete a Diploma in Institute of Technology.

The 31-year-old chef, who hails from

Wellington and has Māori and Samoan

should just leave and get on with it.” It’s

but there were definitely times where I

says Fiso. “I didn’t think I would own a restaurant by 31.”

Back then, the hope was you might

heritage, made the decision to drop out of

become the executive chef of a restaurant

that is very different from the one she’s

trailblazing venue and working alongside

school and pursue a career in an industry working in today.

At the time, Fiso says she was

questioned about the choice to study a

“low-paying trade full of men”. But, there

was no doubt in her mind. She remembers 12 | Hospitality

Initially, London was calling, but a

a change in direction. The acquaintance

eligibility for a J-1 Visa and head to New York. “I hadn’t really considered it,” says

Fiso. “But I thought she made a really good point — what better place to challenge yourself than New York?”

after many years of hard work. Opening a

Following the same goal as the one she

the chefs whose autobiographies she’d

simple — cook. “The whole plan was: ‘I’m

devoured was something Fiso strived for, but didn’t expect. So with a head filled

with Marco Pierre White’s White Heat and Gordon Ramsay’s Humble Pie, Fiso set her

pursued when she left school, the idea was going to go to New York and work my way into Michelin-star kitchens’,” says Fiso.

‘Work’ being the operative word. “I

think there was a bit of luck on my side,”

BUSINESS PROFILE // Monique Fiso

“If I were to just do the restaurant and only the restaurant all the time, I think I would go insane. Having different outlets is good for me.” – Monique Fiso says Fiso. “[But] once I got in the door,

cooking on her own for 12 people at a

valuable so I could stay.”

the intensity of New York. “There was no

I worked like a beast to make myself

Having read Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen

Confidential, Fiso didn’t think it would

be easy. “I knew it would be hard,” she

says. “And it is really intense. It’s such a cutthroat city, margins are so small and

everything is expensive. You get pushed a lot harder…”

Fiso started as a cook on the hot line,

the only job opening available at Brad

Farmerie’s Michelin-starred Public, despite only having experience in cold larder and pastry. “I knew I was going to have to

time helped Fiso reorient herself after

one to hang out with [and] nothing to do except go to work and cook,” she says. It was exactly she needed. “I took all these ideas I had built up over the years and

went, ‘Alright, now let’s make them’. I had all the time and people to practice on.”

It was there, at the Riverview Lodge in

Hanmer Springs on the South Island, that her now applauded restaurant began to

take shape. “I started brainstorming the

idea for Hiakai and did the first pop-up.”

Again, it was aspiration and ambition,

compete [with] people who were just as

not expectation that led to success. “I did

though my shift didn’t start until 3pm, I was

now,” reflects Fiso.

ambitious,” she says. “It meant that even

there by 10am learning everything I could.”

It wasn’t just a lesson in work ethic and

discipline, though. The experience taught

the young chef what it would take to get to the same level of big-name chefs. “It’s not just about making good food ... it’s about running whole kitchens and businesses,” says Fiso.

Fiso rose to the challenge New York City’s kitchen’s presented, but progress came at

not think it would evolve into what it is

What Fiso and her team are doing at

Hiakai has been well-documented. The

attention is deserved — the work they’re doing with indigenous ingredients is

putting the spotlight on Māori cuisine — but praise shouldn’t be reserved for the

end result: Fiso has put as much thought into the organisation of her team as she has the dishes they plate up.

“One thing I never liked in kitchens

a cost and a realisation, which led to Fiso’s

was being set up to fail,” says Fiso. “You

to clear my head,” she says. “Even though

you’re expected to be ready for service and

decision to return to her roots. “I needed

New York was a great place to work, it can be a hard place to think.”

By the time she returned to New

Zealand in early 2016, Fiso had spent the entirety of her career cooking for

other chefs. “I needed to figure out what I

wanted to do and what my style was away from my bosses,” Fiso says of the decision to take a “step back”.

A summer gig at a remote fly-fishing lodge

never have enough time to prep and then perform at a high level.”

Her experience in the high-pressure

kitchens of the city that never sleeps has

led Fiso to do things differently at Hiakai.

Despite being open from Wednesday to Saturday for dinner, Fiso pays her

kitchen staff for a fifth day which is solely dedicated to prep.

Again, Fiso has faced questioning over

her decision — for many in the hospitality July 2019 | 13

BUSINESS PROFILE // Monique Fiso industry, it seems counterintuitive to pay

She competed in Netflix’s The Final

into perspective for the new generation of

staff for a full day without the revenue of

Table while preparing to launch Hiakai’s

the impossible of them,” she says. “We

filmed an episode with Gordon Ramsay

more than glamorise the industry; they’ve

documentary Uncharted. In early August,

overnight success. But, Fiso is the first to

service. “People don’t feel like I’ve expected basically have two days [Tuesday and

Wednesday] to get everything in place,

which is why I think we’re executing at a

high level [and] because we’re executing

at a high level, people don’t mind paying a little more.”

Combined with an optional day of foraging

permanent iteration and she’s just

for the British chef’s new six-part food

she’ll host Australian chef and fellow The

Final Table alumni Mark Best for a dinner

event at Hiakai. Later that month, Fiso will head to the Sunshine Coast, Queensland, for The Curated Plate food festival.

Although Fiso acknowledges the

on Mondays — which most of the kitchen

importance of taking time out after periods

to level up her staff’s understanding of the

own restlessness. “I get bored,” she says.

crew take up — the approach allows Fiso ingredients they’re working with. “That’s why we’re here,” she says.

Teaching staff to use the indigenous

ingredients of Aotearoa, many of

which have been all but forgotten by

commercial kitchens, is a slow process.

At first, the focus is on executing the

of slogging it, she also recognises her

“Sometimes I worry about myself with this.

chefs coming up.

Television and social media have done

made some young chefs look like an

point out her achievements did not come immediately —­she’s been working in

kitchens since she was 14. “That’s 18 years at this,” she says. “You really have to put in the work, which I think a lot of young people coming into the industry now

don’t understand. There are a lot of years

grinding it out before anyone really knows who the hell you are.”

If I were to just do the restaurant and only

Fiso is no stranger to grinding it out,

go insane. Having different outlets is good

know the difference between your own

the restaurant all the time, I think I would for me. I can engage different parts of my brain and it makes me more excited to be

but if her experience has a lesson, it’s to aspirations and external expectations.

“Now you’ve got kids who are in school,

in the restaurant.”

or just out of school, who are like, ‘In two

names of produce. Then, attention shifts

following in the footsteps of respected

and my own show’,” she says. “You don’t

through foraging. “It makes more sense to

stages of her career, and collaborating with

dishes and identifying and learning the to building more in-depth knowledge

them if they’ve gone out and picked [the produce],” says Fiso. “Once we feel like

they’ve got it down, they [can] run food to the chef’s counter and explain the dishes.”

A low-pressure culture and time are

essential to retaining staff in what could

otherwise be an intimidating environment.

Now, with the restaurant open for only a little over six months, Fiso isn’t about to start resting on her laurels.

14 | Hospitality

It’s more than restlessness, though;

chefs was a driver for Fiso in the early others is what keeps her inspired.

Fiso honed her skills managing multiple

projects while running the Hiakai pop-ups.

Still, no amount of organisation can make up for having a well-trained team in place

at Hiakai. “The number one thing I’ve had

to learn to do and am still trying to improve and do better is delegating,” says Fiso.

Just as empowering staff is a clear

concern for Fiso, so too is putting things

years’ time, I’m going to have an empire

even know how to make bechamel properly yet. It’s going to be a lot longer than that.”

Fiso’s advice? Work hard, but know when

to take a step back. “It’s so tempting to go

from the next thing to the next thing to the next thing and not stop,” she says. “More

often than not, you end up in a place where you think, ‘How did I even get here?’”

Fiso’s career has been punctuated by decisions informed in equal parts by

instinct and rumination. Of it all, she says, “It’s been a wild ride.” ■

ITALIAN INSPIRED

AUSTRALIAN BY NATURE

DRINKS // Tea

Spill the tea

There’s no denying coffee has dominated the cafe scene in Australia, but are the tides turning towards tea?

WORDS Madeline Woolway

THE EVERGREEN TEA plant Camellia

is like”. The trend has proven to be one

cafés may historically have been the

was the British who introduced Australia

Lab’s extensive menu, which also includes

low-grade leaves, but Johnston has seen a

sinensis is native to East Asia, however it to tea after the UK began producing the

product in India during the 19th century.

of the most popular items on Botanical traditional teas, iced tea and tisanes.

Although tea was once a highly prized and

For Gunjan Aylawadi, who owns the

commoditised. Now, we are largely black

CBD, it’s not just wellness driving customers

expensive luxury good, it has since become tea with milk drinkers, who pay limited

attention to the nuances found in different preparations of the shrub’s cured leaves.

Health and wellness trends are behind an

recently opened Flyover Fritterie in Sydney’s

rapidly,” says Johnston. “Kombucha is

one of the fastest-growing categories in

Tea does have caffeine, but even the

the amount doled out by a cup of joe. “You

their go-to tea or coffee is, just to see what

their palate is like,” she says. “We also offer

tea blending workshops, which are all about giving more information to consumers.”

drink so many cups of chai — it’s not even

it’s made of and the method it’s made by.

up for counting.”

The attribute is helping tea play catch-

to-drink or bottled teas.

as coffee, but it’s definitely gaining a

Others in the industry have also noted

teas, Le starts with the same approach a

It’s not just about quantity, though — any

They’re words Aylawadi lives by: “We

up with Australia’s otherwise coffee-crazed

the effect of consumers’ current obsession

When it comes to helping consumers

can’t, but we can drink tea,” says Johnston.

the world.” Increasing by 4 per cent, the

beverage is moving quickly, as are ready-

sommelier training starting to happen now.”

sommelier would take. “I ask them what

lighter on caffeine.

can’t drink coffee all day, or most people

blends and wellness blends are growing

development of late and we’ve got tea

looking for an afternoon pick-me-up that’s

but black tea remains flat, according to Masters, Sharyn Johnston. “Functional

menus. “I’ve done quite a lot of tea menu

navigate their vast menu of designer

the Indian brew are appealing to drinkers

stronger varieties clock in at well under

founder and director of Australian Tea

change, with many venues introducing tea

to her chai house. Aylawadi’s various riffs on

approximate 3 per cent increase in sales of

green tea, blended teas and herbal tisanes,

domain of opaque tea bags packed with

culture. “It’s nowhere near as popular following,” says Le.

variety of tea is only as good as the leaves When it comes to sourcing and storing

tea, following a few simple rules is all it

takes to maintain a high standard. A good supplier should offer tasting notes, be

transparent about origin and help select the right range to suit different venues,

explains Johnston. Brewing instructions

with health and wellness. “It’s weird

Based on the observations of Aylawadi,

Le, general manager of Botanical Lab, a

for both beverages in the market — the

with a Sydney-based supplier who uses

gap between the two.

leaves as a base for Flyover Fritterie’s custom

to see trends come and go,” says Linda

tea-house-cum-florist in Brisbane’s Fish

Lane. Since opening in November 2018,

Le has noticed bubble tea sales surge, too, suggesting they’ve “re-invented what tea 16 | Hospitality

Johnston and Le, there’s clearly room

question is whether venues can bridge the “If you can understand coffee, you can

understand tea,” says Johnston. Australian

are also worth their weight in gold.

To source her chai, Aylawadi works closely

premium-quality single-estate assam tea chai blends. When it comes to the brew,

it’s all about balance. “The black tea has to

shine,” says Aylawadi. “It can’t just be

Le, however, does caution against

really strong notes of cloves or cinnamon.”

machine. “Coffee shops often use the hot

about spices. A lot of the time, chai [has] The spices shouldn’t overpower the tea.

To keep their organic tea — sourced from

the urge to rely on any old espresso

water from the coffee machine, but it’s

so easy to burn the tea leaves,” she says.

Water quality in Australia is

Taiwan and China — in peak condition,

generally adequate for tea brewing

glasses. “[With] too much air and too

aware of the details that could be

Botanical Lab stores their bags in amber much light, it loses flavour,” explains Le. On the topic of bags, Johnston says

pyramid, biodegradable bags are just as good as loose leaf tea. “What you

put in the bag is what’s important for

purposes, but it’s important to be

affecting the cupping quality for better or worse. “I feel people don’t pay

attention to those details, which makes a difference,” says Le.

the quality of the tea,” she says. The

Ultimately, the onus is on the industry

chamber opaque bags associated with

misrepresented beverage. Even with

style of bag is also crucial. The doublesupermarket brands don’t allow the tea to infuse properly.

Once introduced to the world of tea,

Johnston says most drinks professionals

will find an exciting new world to explore and realise the parallels to coffee. “They often grow in the same countries next

to each other and their terroirs are often

to turn the tables on what’s become a the added cost of premium leaves and methodical preparation, the

margins remain high. “The good thing about tea is that it’s the highest profit

area,” says Johnston. “It’s a lot easier to make money out of tea than coffee.”

So? “Make your tea offering as good

as your coffee offering,” says Johnston. ■

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very similar,” she says. There are even

similarities in brewing. “The tea sommelier program is really focused on training

people to be able to use things they have in a café,” adds Johnston. “It’s interesting for people to learn alternate brews.”

Johnston lists pour overs such as

Chemex and V60s as current trends as well as options to make things easier during busy services such as pre-

“If you can understand coffee, you can understand tea.”

– Sharyn Johnston

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July 2019 | 17

Wide footpaths and level entry between public and private spaces at King Street precinct

FEATURE // Accessibility

Access all areas Almost 20 per cent of Australia’s population is living with a disability.

What’s your venue doing to make sure their dining out experience is positive?

WORDS Madeline Woolway IT’S BEEN OVER 27 years since the

Australian government passed the Disability Discrimination Act 1992 (Cth). Designed to

disfigurement; or medical condition or work-related injury”.

Under the Disability Discrimination

an Advance Diploma in Hospitality Management at TAFE NSW.

But things are changing, with

prevent discrimination against people with

Act (DDA), both direct and indirect

developers such as Lendlease working with

employment, education as well as the

lists refusing entry to a person with a

the King Street precinct in Brisbane,

disabilities in a number of areas including

provision of goods and services, it also aims to promote an inclusive community.

Australian Bureau of Statistics data from

2015 reveals 4.3 million Australians report living with a disability. Of those aged 15

discrimination are unlawful. The AHRC vision impairment who is accompanied by a guide dog as an example of direct

discrimination along with not providing a ramp or lift for access.

accessibility front of mind. When building the Lendlease team took into account

everything from footpath width and the

design of entryways to countertop heights and amenities.

“We’ve worked closely with each of the

and over and living in a household, one in

The issue extends beyond the law. While

food and beverage operators in terms of

unfair treatment.

still aren’t doing enough to truly welcome

their restaurants and outlets will be laid

12 reported experiencing discrimination or

According to the Australian Human

Rights Commission’s (AHRC) 2016 report

many businesses adhere to protocol, they customers with a disability.

A ramp might allow access to the

premises, but is there enough room for

the design of their shopfronts and the way out,” says Matthew Miller, development director Qld at Lendlease.

diners to move around freely once seated?

Over his seven-year career, Shanahan

can be permanent or temporary. This

as many [seats] in as they can, but they

dining experience. He hopes to rectify a

neurological, learning or psychosocial

says Craig Shanahan, a chef with vision

Access for all: Improving accessibility for consumers with disability, disabilities

includes “physical, intellectual, sensory, disability; a disease or illness; physical 18 | Hospitality

“I understand people want to just get

don’t generally think about accessibility,” impairment, who recently completed

has built up a list of issues that affect the number of them when he opens his own venue later in the year.

On the agenda is educating staff. “People

impaired people,” says Shanahan. Menus aren’t

What can your business do better?

and tables are frequently littered with excess

There are a number of

often presented in an accessible manner either cutlery, napkins, glasses and decorations.

national and state-based

“Everyone is cutting down on staff, so they put

peak bodies that advocate

cutlery and serviettes on the table in a container,”

and provide information

he says. Shanahan, who has some vision in one

specific to different needs.

eye, has found himself feeling around to find the

Here are a few resources to

cutlery he needs to enjoy a meal.

get you started on the journey

Shanahan recommends looking at options

toward accessibility.

including Braille (although usage is declining), as well as making sure menus are readily available

The Australian Network on

and easy to find on websites.

Disability offers tools for

“On our phones, we have voiceover, so if

assessing and benchmarking

you have your menu online, you can read it

your businesses’ accessibility

off there,” he says. “I’m going to have iPads, probably two or three.”

as well as consultancy services to help improve strategy.

Ultimately, it’s about the customer journey from

and.org.au

make them feel welcome,” says Shanahan.

The Australian Federation

beginning to end. “Customers are number one,

“Customers are number one, make them feel welcome.”

– Craig Shanahan

“A lot of [vision-impaired] people I’ve met have one café they go to because they don’t like

going to others just for the fact they almost feel like they aren’t going to get treated in the same way.”

It often comes down to a snowball effect

of Disability Organisation provides a wide range of resources about disability, discrimination, access, communication and more. afdo.org.au

starting with poor website design (making Craig Shanahan Photography Jo Dentrinos

information hard to find), bad seating

arrangements, a hard-to-read menu and

untrained staff. All of these elements combined can lead to a lackluster experience.

The Australian Human Rights Commission has a number of guides intended to help businesses understand and better implement the

Being in the business of hospitality should be considered grounds to go above and beyond the stipulations laid out in the DDA, which

Disability Discrimination Act, as well as the rights of people living with disability.

means ensuring staff are equipped with the

humanrights.gov.au

venue is inclusive.

Good Access is Good

knowledge and tools needed to ensure the “It’s our default position now,” says Miller.

“We’re trying to create great places … A great

place should not discriminate against anyone.

The only way you can do that is to make them absolutely fully accessible.”

Business reports are available from a number of government bodies, including local councils. A comprehensive checklist for cafés and restaurants is

As an industry built on socialising, operating

under a social model of disability should be a key concern — that means thinking about the way spaces, rather than disabilities, inhibit people.

There’s a lot to learn. “I understand how

people may not know; I didn’t understand much about these things before I became blind,” says Shanahan.

But, the onus is on the industry to create

available through the City of Melbourne. The guide covers everything from access to and within a premises, provision of information, staff training and communication skills and a plethora of other considerations. melbourne.vic.gov.au

inclusive spaces. ■

July 2019 | 19

FEATURE // Accessibility

aren’t aware of how to go about helping vision-

FEATURE // Airport venues

Up up and away

AIRPORTS HAVE LONG been the domain of

Savvy operators aren’t just heading to the airport for a holiday — they’re opening venues in them.

for a meal on the go or a celebratory

WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Kevin Li for ST. Ali

20 | Hospitality

Chef and restaurateur Mike McEnearney

fast food operators and overpriced fare, but it

didn’t hesitate when the opportunity to

and are looking to replicate premium

Airport presented itself. “In 2015, I was

seems execs have had a change of direction, dining experiences found in their respective cities. Airports present an opportunity to

leave a lasting impression on domestic and international tourists — not to forget the thousands of employees working on-site.

With 36.7 million people moving

open Kitchen by Mike (KBM) at Sydney approached by Emirates, who had been

circling KBM for quite some time,” he says.

“They had done their research and looked

at what KBM was and thought it would fit perfectly in the airport landscape.”

Launching the brand at the international

through Melbourne Airport in FY17/18

airport in 2017 was not just a business

Airport in 2018, operators are guaranteed

and his family travel frequently, and the

and 44.4 million travelling through Sydney a constant stream of customers keen

Champagne. Mike McEnearney from

Kitchen by Mike and ST. Ali’s Salvatore Malatesta talk to Hospitality about

expanding their customer bases, appealing to the masses and the ebbs and flows of managing airport outlets.

decision, but a personal one. McEnearney chef saw a gap in the market for healthy,

whole foods. “I jumped at the opportunity

to give travellers a chance to eat what they wanted to eat — it would change my life

and other people’s lives,” he says. The chef went on to open a second airport outlet,

Kitchen by Mike Express, in early 2018 in the casual dining precinct.

FEATURE // Airport venues

Salvatore Malatesta received a similar

phone call last year asking if he was

interested in opening ST. Ali in Melbourne Airport. “My initial response was it was

going to be difficult to staff, but it was really exciting,” he says. After going through the tender process, ST. Ali launched in the

international terminal in April, and it’s been

full steam ahead ever since. “We get to serve

coffee to everyone who is leaving Melbourne or who comes to Melbourne for a holiday, and that’s pretty great,” says Malatesta.

“Who doesn’t want 125,000 people walking past their door every day?”

Staffing venues is tricky at the best of

times, and for outlets located in difficult areas, it’s even harder. Sydney Airport

expensive, the minute you pass Green

fee of $14.30 is tacked on top of the

the chef. “Parking is also very expensive, so

is accessible by train, but a ‘gate pass’

‘rail component’ fare, which can result

in transport costs around the $20 mark.

There’s no airport train line in Melbourne, meaning staff have to rely on buses or

airport parking. Whichever way you look at it, commuting is a costly exercise for employees and employers alike.

Key staff members from ST. Ali were

relocated to the airport outlet, and

Malatesta has tried to make the transition

as smooth as possible. “It’s far away if you don’t live around the area and the hours are 5am until midnight, which is a long

day,” he says. “Employees have been taken

care of from a remunerative perspective to

compensate for travel time, parking and all that kind of stuff.”

ST. Ali has a unique business model

where a number of roles are kept ‘in the

cloud’, enabling the business to remain fluid and adapt to changes. “We have a culinary director, a costing chef, an executive chef

Square, you’re paying private prices,” says it’s not an easy place for people to travel

to for work. But there are some perks we

Mike has two

an airport

outlets in Sydney

apparel

international

line

airport

and McEnearney both use the example of

ST. Ali

KBM serves up to

hope

1000 customers

for a standalone venue, but can be make

to open

during the

in LAX

breakfast rush

have a great team, so you just have to get over the speed humps and work out how you can look after your staff.”

Security is naturally high in airports, and it can be a learning curve for operators to get the hang of protocol. Malatesta

running out of milk, which isn’t a big deal or break for an airport operator. “It’s not as easy as texting your supplier and saying, ‘I’m out, can you rock up in the next 10 minutes?’” says Malatesta. “Everything has to go through security. It involves

careful planning, which is not normally synonymous with food and beverage

operations, so we’ve had to improve that.”

Kitchen by Mike has experienced the same

whenever we need them. We refer to those

within the airport, your deliveries have to

roles as ‘insurance’, so if anyone goes down or there’s a new opening, we’ve got it

covered and it doesn’t affect service because someone can step in. We have the financial capacity for those roles, so why not make

delivery conundrum. “As a restaurant

go through the X-ray tunnel, so if you order

milk, you might not see it for a day because it gets stuck or sometimes other people are

bringing in a lot of stuff,” says McEnearney.

everyone’s lives easier?”

There’s also the matter of staff inductions,

has always made the effort to look after

briefings for all employees. McEnearney

McEnearney says Kitchen by Mike

staff, and is understanding of the high

travel costs. “A ticket to the airport is very

Kitchen by

has created

have given staff to make travel easier. We

and a head chef,” says Malatesta. “Those

roles are sitting in the cloud for us to access

ST. Ali

extensive paper work and security

remembers the early days working at the airport before he received his aviation

July 2019 | 21

FEATURE // Airport venues

security identification card (ASIC). “When you have a visitors pass, you need to be

accompanied by an ASIC cardholder and

stay within 10 metres of them at all times,” he says. “To get the ASIC card, you need

to pass a test and have ID and background checks done. The security is immense, but

you get used to it. The airport does a great

job at making it easy and we need to make it easy for staff as well.”

Airports are tense environments for

workers and commuters, and staff need to be equipped to deal with each and every customer. Malatesta has observed three types of travellers: anxious, happy and

efficient, and says they all require different types of service. “The efficient traveller wants coffee quickly so they can go to

appropriate level of service to customers.”

facilities. ST. Ali culinary director Daniel

confused, so they need nurturing at point

facilitate the traveller experience across

consists of the most popular dishes from the

martinis and Champagne and sit in the

unique environment they’re operating in.

the lounge, the anxious traveller is a bit

of sale and happy travellers order espresso café until they get on the plane,” he says.

“Travelling is a tense experience — you’re going through security and people are

checking your passport, so staff are trained to look for those signs and provide the

The team at Kitchen by Mike aim to

both outlets, but are conscious of the

“The demographic is enormous, people

aren’t coming to KBM, they’re flying out of an airport — it’s very different,” says McEnearney. “Airports have a captive

audience, and they’re only coming to you

because you’re the best of the batch. What you’re serving might not be aligned with

Yarra Place café. “We’ve had to repurpose best sellers knowing we don’t have a

full kitchen at our disposal, so it’s been

challenging,” says Malatesta. There were

also a few limitations in the kitchen which

came as a surprise to the team. “The knives are tied to the bench with strong wiring, so there are a few things to get used to.”

Kitchen by Mike is a produce-driven

what customers are looking for — some

concept and the menu changes twice a

but we serve house-made sourdough and

spring/summer theme. The team test new

people want white bread with margarine, cultured butter. We always do our best to

look after people, but the demographic is

much broader and entirely different to what we see in a restaurant out in the open.”

Like Malatesta, McEnearney has

observed the different types of customers coming to Kitchen by Mike. “There are

people who want to rush through customs, clock on the holiday and have a drink

before they go on and others who want to have a drink with their family before they

go through customs,” he says. “Then there

are the 2000 staff members who eat at the airport, and they’re another part of the demographic we need to look after.”

You can’t please everyone, and designing an airport-friendly menu is a completely different process to creating a menu for

a standalone outlet. Chefs must consider the widespread audience (hello dietary requirements) and the limited kitchen 22 | Hospitality

Dobra put together an airport menu that

year in line with an autumn/winter and

dishes at the KBM outlet in the CBD due

to limited space in the venues and the fact producers aren’t able to easily access the venues. “We drive the connection with producers from the city and we think

about what we can execute at the airport

efficiently,” says McEnearney. “The airport kitchens are very tight, producers can’t

come and see me, and if you’re doing a busy breakfast service with 500–1000

people, you don’t have a great deal of space to start experimenting.”

Airports provide operators with an

invaluable opportunity to share their

concept with a domestic and international customer base. But as Malatesta puts it,

you have to look through a different lens in

order to succeed. From training staff to deal

with stressed commuters to putting together a menu that appeases the masses, the

market isn’t an easy one to crack, but if you can get it right, the world’s your oyster. ■

14-15 AUGUST 2019

INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE SYDNEY

If you own or work in independent grocery, a convenience store, a petrol station, a corner store or mini-mart, C&I expo is the one annual event you should not miss.

KEY FEATURES FOR 2019: C&I Industry Symposium

Leading P&C retailers and experts will present on the topic “Doing your own thing”, why it’s so beneficial to be clear about your brand and what you offer the customer.

New exhibitors, more technology

Improved technology to make equipment more efficient, to security systems which prevent store theft, we’re delighted to welcome several new exhibitors in 2019.

Categories on trend

Meet with market leaders in healthy snacking, meal replacements and functional beverages.

More networking

Happy Hour drinks on the show floor from 4:30pm on Wednesday

AACS Convenience Leaders Summit

With a great line-up of local and international speakers, the Summit takes place on Thursday at ICC Sydney.

REGISTER NOW www.candiexpo.com.au

1300 789 845

exhibition@c-store.com.au

EQUIPMENT // Pastry brush

Pastry brush Pastry brushes come in a range of styles and are useful in both savoury and sweet contexts.

Natural bristles shed and will need to be replaced.

Brushes with natural bristles and wooden handles should be hand-washed.

Brushes are

Keep sweet and savoury

available in natural, silicon and plastic.

brushes separate.

Silicon brushes can leave liquid pools or Pastry brushes ensure

streaks on pastry.

minimal wastage of liquids when glazing, basting and egg-washing.

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Before making a decision please consider the relevant Policy Wording. BizCover™ Pty Ltd (ABN 68 127 707 975; AFSL 501769). © 2019 BizCover. BC1222

24 | Hospitality

VIDEO // Pandan waffle

Pandan waffle

with The Butcher’s Block Barangaroo head chef Kanharith Kim An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series.

1

2

3

4

5

6

KANHARITH KIM SHOWS us how to make one of The Butcher’s Block’s signature dishes, the pandan waffle. The waffle combines pandan extract with a light batter to create a crisp waffle that’s not too sweet. Mascarpone is combined with pandan and matcha to add creaminess and balance the dish, which is finished off with maple syrup, fresh fruit and feuilletine.

Ingredients 300g self-raising flour 90g cornflour 4g baking soda 45g castor sugar 5gm salt 650ml milk 240ml grapeseed oil 3 eggs 10g vanilla essence 3gm pandan extract 1 tsp matcha powder 4 tbsp mascarpone Feuilletine

Method Mix the flour, cornflour, castor sugar and salt and sieve to remove any lumps.

In a separate bowl, combine milk with oil, vanilla and pandan extract. Crack eggs into the dry mixture before adding wet ingredients to dry ingredients and baking soda. Mix until batter is smooth.

Pour batter into lightly greased waffle machine and turn. While waiting, combine mascarpone with pandan extract and matcha powder. Turn waffle machine again and wait until cooked. Carefully remove waffle and dress with maple syrup. Top with fresh fruit, mascarpone and feuilletine.

Watch the full video at hospitalitymagazine.com.au

July 2019 | 25

5 MINUTES WITH ... // Hayden McMillan

Hayden McMillan The Neptune head chef on finding your own style, creating innovative food and working for yourself.

I ALWAYS LIKED cooking from a young

Style changes as you get older, as you

source as much sustainable seafood

amazing cooks or anything — it’s not one

with food. Until then, your style mirrors

grilled meats over charcoal, so we’re

age. My Mum and my Grandma weren’t

of those stories. I liked cooking at home

and school wasn’t for me, so I left pretty early and went straight to university in Auckland to train as a chef.

It wasn’t until I worked at Vinnies — one

of the best restaurants in New Zealand

(now closed) — that I saw the potential to make a real career out of it. I was always serious about it because I wanted to be good, but that was the next level up.

I was 25 when I got the head chef job

at TriBeCa, which was pretty young. You

can get a start in New Zealand because the industry is a bit smaller. Once you work at enough places, you become in demand.

26 | Hospitality

cook more and have more experiences a lot of the places you work at. When I was at Etta, I really found my own style. It’s always been sort of fresh,

lighter and produce-driven. Some of the

as we possibly can. We’re doing

sourcing grass-fed beef, and we’re doing some really awesome vegetarian dishes as well.

I left Etta so I could have more

stronger dishes I’ve made have all been

flexibility with my family. When you have

more of a challenge to turn a pumpkin

to make those sacrifices, like late nights,

vegetarian, for some reason. I find it

into something special compared to a

steak. Chefs should always innovate in

some way or another. The job is to give people something they can’t recreate at home.

The brief at Neptune is to create a

coastal Italian menu, so we’re trying to

a child, it changes things. I don’t want anymore. Working for other people is

also exciting. At Etta, we didn’t really

have a brief. I guess I felt the pressure

to be original and do things that hadn’t

been done. At Neptune, I don’t feel like

I have re-write everything. I’m enjoying going down the rabbit hole but staying within the brief.

■

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• High Yield for all fruit and vegetables • Juices hard vegetables, greens and wheatgrass with ease • Stylish, Quiet and Easy to Clean

• No Separation and taste delicious • Quick Return on Investment

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-:::::

Chef CS600

Extra Top Set

Complete Pack

C�II US to book a!1

ons1te demonstration

=$2195

02 9798 0586 www.kuvings.com.au Sydney Melbourne Brisbane Adelaide Perth

*Based on average wholesale cost to produce a litre of juice. **Based on avg. $8.00 cost of a glass of fresh juice.

LAST CHANCE FOR TICKETS! Christine Manfield

Jeremy Courmadias

Kylie Javier Ashton

MONDAY 29 JULY 2019 ROYAL RANDWICK RACECOURSE HOSTED BY

The industry’s premier conference takes place this month.

If you work in hospitality, this event is for you!

We’ve got a star-studded line-up of speakers confirmed. They’ll be discussing social media marketing; attracting the right staff; products and merchandise; mental health; launching a new concept; future trends; and much more.

Our keynote presenter is Nick Bowditch, the only man in Asia-Pacific to have worked for both Facebook and Twitter. He’ll talk social media and how to use stories to make more sales.

Other speakers include: Christine Manfield • Jeremy Courmadias • Kylie Javier Ashton Sven Almenning • Nadine Ingram • Justin North Tickets include lunch and networking drinks.

Thanks to our sponsors

To see the full timetable and to book your tickets, visit www.hospleaders.com.au