Hospitality Business March 2018

ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT • MEAT - BETTER WITH AGE • FROM SOUTH AUCKLAND TO SPAIN

www.hospitalitybusiness.co.nz MARCH 2018 Vol.5 No.2

NEW ZEALAND’S LARGEST HOSPITALITY AND LIQUOR AUDIENCE

contents

18

Soul Searching Landmark bistro enters new era

32

22

REGULARS 05 NEWS & EVENTS Including our Trade diary dates to note!

07 HOSPITALITY NZ A Lot can happen in 100 days!

FROM SOUTH AUCKLAND TO SPAIN

Tasty Tapas

08

08 IN SEASON Beetroot, sweetcorn, sweetbreads & Bluenose!

30 RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION OF NEW ZEALAND Major industry issues

FEATURES 12 ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT Top chefs talk about kitchens 26 MEAT ON THE MENU It's true- aged beef adds flavour

RECRUITMENT

Starts at Secondary School

IN SEASON

Versatile, juicy sweetcorn Hospitality BUSINESS | March 2018 | 3

editorial MARCH 2018 Vol.5 No.2

Kimberley Dixon kdixon@ intermedianz.co.nz 0274 505 502

Perfect storm

PUBLISHED BY The Intermedia Group Ltd 505 Rosebank Road, Avondale Auckland, 1026, New Zealand ph: 021 361 136

Just month three of 2018 and I am sure I’m not alone in pronouncing this year will continue to produce challenges for the hospitality industry – not least of these being the weather! All time high rates of humidity, cyclones, rain, flooding and the flow on effects these events have on our businesses and temperaments, frequently spark conversations across all sectors of the industry.

Couple the weather with ongoing staff shortages, training issues and you could have a perfect storm – so to speak!

In this issue we look at an innovative new college in South Auckland which has links to Spain and amazing Spanish food. And we talk to six leading chefs about their most important ‘ must have’ pieces of kitchen equipment, – and what they would like to purchase next!

Proving that age can be an advantage when preparing meat for your diners we look at the trend across the Tasman toward aged beef! Deliciously tempting!

Enjoy!

MANAGING DIRECTOR - PUBLISHER Dale Spencer dspencer@intermedianz.co.nz EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Paul Wootton The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd, Australia www.intermedia.com.au EDITOR - HOSPITALITY Business Kimberley Dixon kdixon@intermedianz.co.nz ph: 0274 505 502 EDITOR - THE SHOUT Charlotte Cowan ccowan@intermedianz.co.nz ph: 021 774 080 PUBLISHING ASSISTANT Eclypse Lee elee@intermedianz.co.nz SALES DIRECTOR Wendy Steele wsteele@intermedianz.co.nz ph: 021 300 473 SALES MANAGER - THE SHOUT Sam Wood swood@intermedianz.co.nz 021 256 6351 CONTRIBUTORS Sue Fea, Jes McGill, Catherine Milford GRAPHIC DESIGNER Adrian Tipper – atipper@intermedia.com.au HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock – cblacklock@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper – jacqui@intermedia.com.au SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES Eclypse Lee – Publishing Assistant elee@intermedianz.co.nz PROUDLY SUPPORTED BY

ON THE COVER : MOFFATT Cobra from Moffat – the essential range is now complemented with an Asian-inspired selection of equipment for the modern busy kitchen.

Merrychef from Moffat – the first choice for fresh, hot food on demand.

All backed by Moffat’s renowned service and after sales support.

Visit www.moffat.co.nz to view the full range of food service and bakery equipment solutions.

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NEWS

World Hotel Competition Recognises Our Top Reception Skills

Tim Gordon, Heritage Auckland’s international award winning receptionist.

Tim Gordon, Heritage Auckland’s receptionist, has achieved world runnerup in the global AICR Receptionist of the Year awards, announced at a gala event in Zurich, Switzerland, February 4.

AICR stands for Amicale Internationale des Sous Directeurs et Chefs de Réception des Grand Hôtels. It is the international association of luxury hotel front office managers, which each year runs a competition called the David Campbell Trophy in association with Gold Key Media, to find the world’s best luxury hotel receptionist.

Tim won the title AICR New Zealand Receptionist of the Year 2017 qualifying him to attend this prestigious competition in Zurich.

“It’s a great honour to have represented New Zealand and to have got this far. I am grateful to AICR awards organisers and Heritage Hotels for supporting me on this journey,” Tim Gordon says.

The competition was judged through a detailed written examination with questions covering finance, staffing and marketing. Also included was a gruelling role play test in a simulated challenging guest management scenario, in front of an international panel of hospitality judges.

Tim competed against entrants from 16 countries across the world. The first prize winner was from Italy.

“We knew Tim had what it takes to represent New Zealand on the world stage.

To have reached runner up in the world on his first attempt, is a credit to his incredible hospitality skills. Tim is the embodiment of what our company stands for in guest service.

We could not be more delighted for him and his achievement,” says Marcus Keenan, general manager of Heritage Auckland.

Tim Gordon joined Heritage Hotels in 2015, first at Heritage Hanmer Springs, before moving to Heritage Auckland in 2016.

New Head Chef for The Grove as Ben Bayly Steps Aside Award-winning chef, Ben Bayly is leaving The Grove, one of New Zealand’s top fine-dining restaurants, making way for his mate and successor, Scott Denning.

After more than eight years at The Grove - and more recently sister restaurant Baduzzi - Bayly says he is ready for a change, taking time off to regroup, travel and spend time with family.

With big shoes to fill, his replacement Scott Denning is Auckland born and raised, but like Bayly, cut his teeth at revered Michelin star restaurants in London, including Le Gavroche, The Square and Pied à Terre.

Running his own restaurant, Saison in Epsom, for three years, Denning’s background also includes time on superyachts in the Caribbean and Mediterranean and in Russia where he helped set up and run various Western and Asian style restaurants in St Petersburg and Moscow. It is this international influence, exposure to different cultures and experience in top European kitchens that Denning brings to The Grove.

Started in 2004 by owners Michael and Annette Dearth, The Grove has been home to an impressive roll-call of top New Zealand chefs including Michael Meredith from 2004, Sid Sahrawat from 2006 and Bayly from 2009 – receiving numerous accolades over the years including best fine dining restaurant in the Metro Restaurant of the Year Awards 2017 and three hats in the 2017 Cuisine Good Food Awards.

With similar backgrounds in top London kitchens and friends for some years, Bayly recommended Denning for the role, with Bayly himself put forward for the job by Sahrawat back in 2009.

Of his successor, Bayly believes Denning is up for the job. “He’s a bloody good cook. Personality wise he’s also a good match for Michael which is really important when you get to that level.”

Chef Scott Denning moves on to The Grove.

Hospitality BUSINESS | March 2018 | 5

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OPINION

AS WE SEE IT

Hospitality New Zealand Vicki Lee, CEO

A LOT CAN HAPPEN IN 100 DAYS… & IT AFFECTS YOU With any new government comes the inevitable ‘100 days plan’ when we find out what election promises have made the cut to be more than just that, a promise. It also confirms the changes that are likely to happen as the new government asserts its leadership style. Scroll down the Plan and one particular objective stands out as the one most likely to impact on our members and the hospitality sector in general, that of; increasing the minimum wage to $16.50 an hour effective from 1 April 2018 and introducing legislation to improve fairness in the workplace.

One of the first Labour announcements was the increase in the minimum wage. Nothing new you might say, the minimum wage goes up every year there is no discussion, it just happens. This time around however the increase is particularly significant and not only have they announced the 2018 increase but there are also aspirations for it to be $20 per hour by 2021.

There is industry wide concern regarding how operators will be able to afford these increases as it’s not just those on the minimum wage who will see their wages increase. Naturally. there will be an expectation from staff that the gap between levels of pay will remain, so as minimum wage goes up, so to must all other wages.

To use an example, one of our members employs 89 staff, they regularly take a punt on hiring untrained staff who show potential with the view they will train them up. Over the next 3 years they projected the following wage cost increases: • In Year One (2018) $15.75 to $16.50 = $187,200 added costs • In Year Two (2019) $16.50 to $18.00 (in theory) = $374,400 added costs • In Year Three (2020) $18.00 to $20.00 (in theory) = $499,200 added costs This is a total increase in costs of over $1 million over 3 years. If that isn’t eyewatering enough, this means their profits tumble from 12% to 2%, at best.

So how will they claw some of this back? Prices will have to increase (easier said than done), staff might be let go and as a result the owners might need to work in their business more rather than working on their business. Some are even looking at automation so they don’t need as many staff – surely not the outcome Labour has in mind.

As part of the election promises it was mooted that some form of tax relief should be made available to businesses to help respond to the minimum wage increases. We have met with officials to discuss our concerns and we have urged them to ensure all options that help rather than hinder small business remain on the table.

The Hospitality Training Trust (HTT) was set up to encourage and support training in the hospitality sector.

Hospitality Training Trust – 2018 Grants

APPLICATIONS NOW OPEN Each year the Trust provides grants to associations, companies or individuals for projects or ideas that have the potential to make a real difference to the sector.

In 2017 the Trust received its highest number of applications, more and more people in the sector now know about the Trust and what it does.

Grants have been awarded to private teaching schools, polytechnics and various hospitality industry associations.

Those grants have helped train secondary school hospo students in the holidays, burgeoning sommeliers, staff dealing with food allergies, young chefs attending overseas competitions, secondary school teachers upskilling on curriculum changes in cooking units, researchers assessing how the hospitality industry is perceived by its customers, to mention a few.

If you have a great idea or project that fits these criteria, visit our website hospitalitytrainingtrust.org.nz for further information and to obtain an application form or phone 021 188 3212. Applications close on 6 April 2018. Approved grants will be announced in late May 2018.

IN SEASON

SEAFOOD

MEAT c SWEETBREADS Using sweetbreads is a wonderful way to create excitement on the plate and for customers to try something a little different. Preparation is key to getting this cut of offal tender and delicious including ensuring the membrane is removed before serving. Finishing them in a pan with butter and golden syrup creates a memorable dish such as this from Beef and Lamb Ambassador Chef Alistair Forster at Forsters Mahana in Nelson.

c BLUENOSE Bluenose are found in the temperate waters around New Zealand.

They like rough ground in depths of 100 to 500 metres. They are caught year-round by trawl and longlining, predominantly around offshore reefs or drop-off areas.

For the first two years they are fast growers, with adults spawning at four to five years. They normally weigh in at five to six kilograms and are 60-100 centimetres long.

Bluenose can be confused with hapuku/groper, however, they are distinguishable by a blunt snout and compressed body with large eyes set low in the head.

The prized bluenose is well-known and is often described as being one of the best easting fish in New Zealand waters. Its medium to thick moist flakes makes it a versatile species.

Bluenose is a favourite with white-tablecloth dining establishments and is great sautéed or baked, but can be cooked using virtually any method. We like it simple; pan fried with a fresh summer side.

When buying fish during the warm summers months, make sure it is fresh. The skin should be bright and shiny, and the flesh semi-transparent and glossy. If it looks mushy, then it is not fresh.

Visit seafood.co.nz/recipes to find some delicious ways to enjoy this delicious fish.

FRESH PRODUCE d BEETROOT Versatile and delicious beetroot is in plentiful supply in March and can be eaten cooked, raw or juiced. Young leaves can be eaten like spinach – boiled, steamed, microwaved, stir fried or used raw in salads. Beetroot can even be roasted and blended with lemon, garlic, tahini, chick peas and olive oil to make a creamy hummus that’s striking to look at, tastes amazing and pairs perfectly with chips, pita, or veggies or as a sandwich spread. Serve with feta and black sesame seeds.

Ensure beetroot is clean and free of dirt and buy small quantities regularly to guarantee freshness. Do not trim the flesh of the root or it will cause the beetroot to bleed. Sprinkle with water before returning to chiller at night. Store at 0ºC with a relative humidity of 90-100%.

8 | March 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS

c SWEET CORN In season until April, sweet corn can be boiled, steamed, microwaved or grilled on the cob or strip the kernels off and use in stir fries with a little butter or oil. Use kernels are delicious in corn fritters, added to salads or remove the husk, wrap in tin foil with butter, sweet chilli sauce and black pepper and cook on the BBQ. Serve with butter.

Choose sweet corn with fresh green husks and soft yellow to light brown tassels - the darker the tassels, the riper the sweet corn. The kernels should be plump, pale and tightly arranged.

The kernels darken as the sweet corn matures. Varieties vary in sweetness and colour – yellow and white and sometimes both. Sweet corn is highly perishable and should be refrigerated with the husk on as this provides good protection from dirt and dehydration. Store at 0ºC with a relative humidity of 90-100%. sweet corn is ethylene sensitive so store separately from ethylene producing fruit and vegetables.

NEWS

Burger takes the honours for summer dining!

Beef Pizza Burger takes Summer Awards Auckland pizzeria and burger restaurant Crusty’s Pizza Burger has won most popular restaurant in the Menulog Restaurant Awards for summer 2017/18. Located in Hobsonville, Crusty’s Pizza Burger is known for its signature Beef Pizza Burger dish - a beef, pepperoni, red onion, and mozzarella cheese burger encased in a golden pizza shell.

The family-run business handcrafts its pizza and burgers using locally sourced ingredients to provide the Hobsonville community with a range of food which were qualities that helped it take out the title of the most popular Menulog restaurant in New Zealand.

The Menulog Restaurant Awards are open to all restaurants and takeaways on the Menulog platform and are selected based on popularity, rating and customer satisfaction. Menulog NZ Commercial Director, Paul Dodds, said the bi-annual awards continue to grow as more restaurants use Menulog’s online ordering technology to meet increasing demand from customers for home delivery.

“The fact they are a local family-run restaurant is testament to the value Menulog brings to restaurants of all sizes and the real opportunity for local businesses to grow and thrive with online ordering and delivery.” Menulog awards an overall national winner, as well as recognising top specialty restaurants in Auckland, Bay of Plenty, Wellington, Christchurch and Dunedin including Indian, Japanese and Thai cuisines.

This year’s winners include: • National winner - Crusty’s Pizza Burger • Best Indian (Auckland) - Kabana Indian Cuisine • Best Thai (Auckland) - Krung Thep Thai Street Food • Best Asian (Auckland) - Golden Bridge • Best Japanese (Auckland) - Big Fish Eatery • Best Chicken (Auckland) - Chuck ‘N’ Chicken • Best Thai (Rotorua) - Herbs & Spices Thai Restaurant • Best Indian (Tauranga) - Cardamom Indian Restaurant • Best Indian (Christchurch)- Pepper Bridge Indian • Best BBQ (Christchurch) - BBQ Rib Runner • Best Indian (Dunedin) - Indian Spice • Best Indian (Wellington) - Spice Lounge • Best Asian (Wellington) - Ming Du (Chinese) Crusty's Pizza Burger owner, and summer 2017/18 winner, Brendan Marsh.

NEW OPENINGS

ILEX CAFÉ

7 Rolleston Ave, Christchurch Ph: 03 9415556 www.goodcompany.nz

FUSH

104 The Runway, Wigram, Christchurch Ph: 03 2601177 www.eatfush.com FUSH is serving up great family-style fish and chips just the way they should be, battered, crumbed or pan-fried with a bit of a gourmet twist thrown in. The 50 to 60-seater restaurant in Christchurch’s Wigram is owned hospitality operator by Anton Matthews and his family. Anton also owns Joe’s Garage Wigram and formerly owned Joe’s Garage Sumner. FUSH offers other options like its popular pulled pork burger, chicken, fish and cheese burgers, but it’s the fish and chips that win hands down.

These are served with chunky, hand-cut chips, sweet potato or skinny fries options, and there’s a Cajun fish option as well to spice things up. FUSH is already drawing in the locals for a taste of a traditional Kiwi favourite. Takeaway options come in a box for warmth and freshness, while the dine-in dishes are served on an old camping style enamel plate. Chocolate torte, cheesecake, and the hugely popular pineapple lump wontons take full honours in the dessert line-up.

Well-known Christchurch restaurateur Jonny Schwass has launched Ilex Café in the heart of the Garden City’s beautiful Botanic Gardens. Jonny sold his Harlequin Public House and Mrs Hucks in Christchurch to focus solely on Ilex, which naturally reflects a strong botanic theme, overlooking the gardens and main nursery area. The Ilex setting lends itself beautifully to outdoor dining with seating for 110 outside and 90 inside, as well as a function room catering for up to 120, which is already popular for corporate hosting and weddings. Ilex does a delicious burger – an adaptation of a Harlequin favourite – and an amazing botanicallyinspired pavlova. “We’re lucky to be able to have access to the gardens and gardeners,” says Jonny. He’s pretty chuffed with his new venue. “I’ve grown up in Christchurch and always loved coming to these gardens. It’s a pretty significant space in the city,” he says.

“We’ve got a 15-year lease here. This is my resting place – my last one before I retire to something very small in the country.”

UNIVERSO BRASSERIE AND BAR

BLACK RABBIT KITCHEN AND BAR

430A Bannockburn Road, Bannockburn, Central Otago Ph: 03 4451553 Email: oneblackrabbit@hotmail.com Black Rabbit Kitchen and Bar in the heart of Central Otago in beautiful Bannockburn is the perfect venue during hot summer days or crisp, cool winter ones. Black Rabbit has not only become the new hang-out for locals, it’s also popular on the tourist trail with its sun-baked outdoor garden courtyard seating more than 40. There’s seating inside for 30 to 40 inside and comfortable couches with an open fire inside – perfect for this vottage-style venue. Great Allpress coffee teams up with delicious cakes and slices, and Black Rabbit’s already renowned for its beef burger, seafood chowder, steak sandwich and whitebait fritters with salad and fries. Wild venison wrapped in pesto and bacon, salmon and vanilla bean crème brulee feature in the weekend dinner line-up on Friday and Saturday nights. Owned by Katie Funnell and Jimmy Fairweather, Black Rabbit has a slightly industrial, but funky feel.

10 | March 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS

95 Worcester Boulevard, Christchurch Ph: 03 3795214 www.universo.co.nz Universo Brasserie and Bar in central Christchurch is hospitality operator Tony Astle’s latest new venue. Astle’s Stealth Hospitality Group owns King of Snake, a Southeast Asian Thai restaurant, and Rockstar, an events and function centre, in Christchurch. Universo is light, modern and chic with a distinctly Bohemian feel, perfectly suited to its Christchurch Art Gallery neighbour. The fit-out is classy and stylish, seating up to 80 inside with seating for another 80 to 100 on the fabulous outdoor deck. At the helm in the kitchen is Mark Wilson, formerly of The Grill, with sous chef Michael RowlinJones, who hails from the Michelin-star Supper Club in London, among his able-bodied brigade. The food is contemporary, European style with the likes of Market Fish Ceviche, Yorkshire Pudding and Universo’s house-made Potato Gnocchi taking top honours on the lunch menu. The Universo Beast Board and its array of tasty meat treats is proving to be the perfect shared dinner platter over a drink.

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KITCHEN ESSENTIALS

Equipment Essentials

Top Chefs Can’t Cook Without ?

Professional kitchens collect gadgets like magnets, however there are a few essentials that leading chefs simply couldn’t cook without! We talk to this year's Beef & Lamb Ambassador chefs and Scott Denning of The Grove about their kitchen equipment essentials.

FREDDIE PONDER

SALT RESTAURANT, WATERFRONT HOTEL, NEW PLYMOUTH What’s your favourite piece of kitchen equipment at the moment?

My Mandolin-style Japanese hand-held slicer Why is it your favourite?

I quite like it because you can get real nice cuts.You get a really perfect measurement and it’s great because everything’s set the same size.

How are you using it?

It’s hand-held, and I find it great for slicing vegetables like beetroot and radishes when decorating nice dishes, and for making crisps.

What benefits does it deliver to your business/kitchen?

It’s great for that perfection, presentation and it’s cheap at only about $70. It’s plastic, so doesn’t last as long, but it’s cheap if you need to replace it.

DAMON MCGINNISS

EMPORIUM BAR & EATERY AT THE ART DECO MASONIC HOTEL, NAPIER. What’s your favourite piece of kitchen equipment at the moment?

My nice Wusthof German knife. It’s a handy extension of myself. I virtually sleep with it. I wouldn’t be without it.

Why is it your favourite?

It’s nicely weighted. It’s got a good balance to it and it holds its edge.

How are you using it?

I use it all the time, every day, to chop and slice pretty much everything.

What benefits does it deliver to your business/kitchen?

It does everything I want or need it to do. Without a knife you’re not a chef.

What’s next on your equipment shopping list?

I’d love a Paco Jet. They’re incredibly high speed and even shave ice incredibly fast and thin and you get a nice fluffy finish. They make great sorbets and ice cream, but at about $8000 it would be just a grand toy for me. It’s just on my wishlist.

12 | March 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS

What’s next on your equipment shopping list?

A Paco Jet. They’re just so good for making ice cream and sorbet.

If you’re making a nice apple sorbet you’d normally use an ice cream churner, but sometimes that loses the flavour of the apples. If you throw some raw Granny Smith apples into a Paco Jet container with your stock syrup and glucose and do it that way it’s honestly like Heaven. They’re great for everything from purees and sorbets to consommé.

KITCHEN ESSENTIALS

ALISTAIR FORSTER FORSTERS MAHANA, NELSON

What’s your favourite piece of kitchen equipment at the moment?

My Thermomix and my Anova Precision Cooker.

Why is it your favourite?

The Thermomix can produce so much from one machine. It’s is a robo, grinder and stove all in one.

How are you using it?

I use it for ice-cream bases, blending and jams.

What benefits does it deliver to your business/kitchen?

It helps with time management and reduces labour costs. It introduces staff to a new means of cooking and is a great space saver in a small kitchen.

The Anova saves time in labour costs, saves space, and cooks to perfection. Using a large plastic container you have an instant water bath, which works for all the sous vide.

What’s next on your equipment shopping list?

Next on my list is a Paco Jet.

KATE FAY

CIBO, PARNELL, AUCKLAND

What’s your favourite piece of kitchen equipment at the moment?

My Thermomix. It’s a blender, cooking (equipment) and mixer all in one.

Why is it your favourite?

Because it’s very versatile. I use it for lots of things from making sauces and blending to grinding spices and making purees. It’s just got quite a high-speed blade.

How are you using it?

We use it nearly full-time. It’s going all the time every day, especially for pastries and anglaises, ice creams. It’s really good for delicate things. It’s full-proof.

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What benefits does it deliver to your business/kitchen?

Efficiency. It’s a big save on labour, because things get done more quickly. It weighs ingredients as you load them in. They cost about $2500 and we have an older one, but the new ones are more digital and have other added features.

What’s next on your equipment shopping list?

(New plates because some kitchen hand dropped them at Christmas time!) I want a Blast Chiller. They freeze things instantly.

moffat.co.nz 0800 MOFFAT (663328) Hospitality BUSINESS | March 2018 | 13

KITCHEN ESSENTIALS

LUCAS PARKINSON ODE CONSCIOUS DINING, WANAKA

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE OF KITCHEN EQUIPMENT AT THE MOMENT? My Pacojet. It’s so good, so perfect, and delicious every time.

WHY IS IT YOUR FAVOURITE? I can make amazing ice creams and sorbets, frozen mousses and other great things that no other machine will do. It’s more accurate, ultrasmooth, gives you the perfect texture. It’s faultless – like a guarantee.

HOW ARE YOU USING IT? It’s what I know. Different flavoured ice cream has been our amuse bouche every day, especially during the heatwave this summer.

WHAT BENEFITS DOES IT DELIVER TO YOUR BUSINESS/KITCHEN? Everything tastes better. They’re about $9000, but it’s worth the investment, although everyone sees that in a different way. Ice cream is something memorable.You’ve got to love what you eat and I’ve got to be able to sleep well at night knowing I’ve made the best I can.

WHAT’S NEXT ON YOUR EQUIPMENT SHOPPING LIST? A walk-in chiller and a bigger kitchen so that I can fit one in. My current kitchen is only double the size of a household laundry or single bedroom. At the moment everything’s in fridge drawers. I literally have to buy everything in fresh every day.

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KITCHEN ESSENTIALS

SCOTT DENNING THE GROVE, AUCKLAND

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE OF KITCHEN EQUIPMENT AT THE MOMENT? My Italian hand-rolling pasta machine – pasta roller. We use it to make all of our ravioli, agnolotti, vegan tortellini.

WHY IS IT YOUR FAVOURITE? It’s a skill I learnt a long time ago in London – making handmade tortellini and ravioli. It’s quite an art, and quite soothing and relaxing, so I just enjoy the process.

HOW ARE YOU USING IT? We make our pasta dough from flour and eggs, chill it down and roll it out in a machine, use cutters to make the rounds, then make our filling. At the moment we’re filling them with scampi and buttercup puree.

WHAT BENEFITS DOES IT DELIVER TO YOUR BUSINESS/KITCHEN? It allows me to deliver really nice, good quality, homemade pastas.

WHAT’S NEXT ON YOUR EQUIPMENT SHOPPING LIST? A handmade hand-rolling macaroni board to make nice long thin tubes of handmade macaroni. ■

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ver 60 years of product experience and culinary expertise drive Merrychef ’s innovative, award-winning technology.

Combine this pedigree with their focus on continued advancement and it’s no mystery why their brand is now right at home in the Moffat stable.

From the world’s first commercial microwave oven in the 1950’s to their latest high speed oven, the eikon® e2s, Merrychef has been a pioneer in the industry. Their products suit a broad range of kitchens, from small coffee shops to fine dining restaurants – anywhere demanding fresh, hot food on demand.

Since entering the Australian market Merrychef has become a recognised and sought-after manufacturer of advanced high-speed cook ovens. Now we are pleased to announce that Moffat will be the exclusive importer for the brand in Australia and New Zealand.

Manufactured in the UK, the Merrychef range enables fast, efficient and accurate heating. Each oven boasts a user-friendly touch panel interface, rapid heat up and cool down times and minimal operating noise.

Michael Lillico, Moffat’s General Manager of Sales and Marketing, calls them “best in class in every way”. Given the benefits available to small and busy operations these ovens may well be in a class of their own.

“Their ultra-simple easyTouch® touch panel interface really makes them stand out, and they also promise quicker heat up and cool down times than similar ovens out there,” says Michael.

16 | March 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS

“By using a very smart combination of microwave and convection technology, and energy efficient standby mode, we can help operators cut the warm-up time of their ovens by around half.”

At the heart of the technological development is a ‘food fast, but not fast food’ ethos. The eikon® ovens reduce meal preparation time without creating less than desirable results. Products can be cooked on the eikon® e3 and e5 models from a chilled or frozen state more than five times faster than traditional cooking methods. The e2s, e4 and e4s models allows cooking times that are up to a remarkable 15 times faster.

Ease of use and flexibility of output is a big factor behind the success of the brand. Menus can be easily uploaded via a USB port, built-in diagnostics limit unnecessary service call outs and an additional ventilation system is not required, thanks to Merrychef ’s latest catalyst technology.

A range of accessories (including paddles, Teflon liners and a panini grill) allow these compact ovens to act as somewhat of a Swiss army knife in small spaces.

From paninis, muffins, pastries, pizza and subs to breakfast menus, baked potatoes and lasagna, there is an eikon® oven ready with quick, quality service.

Merrychef eikon® ovens, with their ability to deliver restaurant quality food in fast food times, will certainly make their mark on local food service operations with this new partnership. Needless to say, we expect to see more merry chefs and happy hospitality owners in the near future. ■

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ICONIC CHANGE Soul Food: Trevally sashimi with verjuice, compressed celery and pepitas.

Soul bought by competition Landmark restaurant Soul Bar & Bistro enters a new era with its purchase by Nourish Group - but will things change? Hospitality Business talks to Richard Sigley about this decision!

BY JES MAGILL

W

hen the hospo darling of Auckland’s Viaduct, Soul Bar & Bistro changed hands recently, the new owner,Nourish Group’s Richard Sigley, was as surprised as everyone else when the deal was sealed.

“Initially I just wanted to look at the costs of being in the Viaduct, compared to Princes Wharf but then I realised what a fantastic opportunity this was,” says Sigley, whose group owns long-time Soul rival Euro, just 400m around the corner.

He does admit to a few nervous moments negotiating the purchase the 250 seat capacity destination venue from the restaurant’s founder, former co-owner and hospitality leader Judith Tabron.

“The biggest challenge I could see was Jude. She’s so good at what she does and integral to the brand, that if she goes, how much will turnover drop?”

Sigley then shook off the doubts. He owns one of the largest hospo groups in the country with nine restaurants including Coley & Punch, Culpeper, Jervois Steak House in Auckland and Queenstown, the Crab Shack in Auckland and Wellington, plus Pravda Café & Grill and Shed 5 in Wellington, two managed Hilton Hotel venues, and Charley Farley’s on Waiheke Island.

“We’ve always wanted to think we’re a pretty good group to work for and now the staff are realising we’re going places as well. We want to expand and we realised, we’re one of the few groups in the country that could take on the challenge.”

Sigley’s used to fielding questions such as, ‘how big is too big?’ “We’re mindful of what we want to do and we have a strategic intent in place.

For every one property we buy or build, there’s 50 we say no to. With a flat management structure at head office we’re reliant on our staff at the outlets, but we do look after them. It’s not like we’re a big corporate – we’re still very people focused.”

18 | March 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS

ICONIC CHANGE

Hospitality leader Judith Tabron calls time on Soul after a 17 year stellar run.

“I’ve achieved work/life balance because I’ve had many very good people working with me for such a long time.”

The famous Soul verandah: A highly prized piece of Auckland’s hospo real estate.

And Sigley’s ecstatic about a recently reinvigorated Viaduct Harbour and their new neighbourhood. “It’s location, location, location – the area has come alive again,” he says.

Soul changed hands officially on February 28, with Tabron’s official leave date May 31 so she can assist in the changeover.

So, for the big question, what will diners notice when Tabron vacates the building? “That’s the challenge,” Sigley says. “Soul has been one of Auckland’s top restaurants and we’re keen to continue that legacy. We don’t see any point in changing anything – how many restaurants can you mention that have been around for 17 years?”

Sigley says Soul has gone to a group that will maintain its vision and keep it at the forefront. “I would like to think we can’t stuff it up.”

Soul has reigned supreme in a fickle market to a broad spectrum of loyal fans for nearly 20 years and that’s one big accolade, the ability to establish the restaurant as Auckland’s leader in corporate and social dining, and everything in between.

When she’s asked the secret to the venue’s success, the answer is refreshing. “We don’t take ourselves too seriously, and then it’s all about consistently good, fresh food and our incredibly loyal customers.”

With her glistening showcase soon in the hands of former rivals, she’s happy that Soul has gone to Nourish Group. “It’s great for the team that a professional company has come in, one that has a track record.

There won’t be any changes in personnel and I feel the staff will be well looked after.”

Tabron’s partner in Soul, Eric Watson through the Cullen Group, was pretty much the perfect partner, according to Tabron. “He’s based overseas and was hardly ever here, but I received everything I needed to help run the financial side of things.

“I was provided strong back-up with good directors, especially Les Archer. I’ve been in the industry since I was 16 so I understand the business completely. The operational side of the business was always my area, but I’m not an accountant.”

TABRON’S LEGACY: STANDARDS & TRAINING Nourish Group is committed to carrying on Tabron’s strong training legacy.

She’s received numerous high profile awards for it but struggles with what she sees as the lack of training focus from the industry in general.

“It has always disappointed me, the lack of training that our industry players are prepared to put in. I feel they’re reliant on our international workers and it’s got a little out of control.”

Starting out in kitchens at 16 years of age, Tabron’s first high profile role was at DeBretts in the early 1980s, followed by game-changing experiences in Michelin star restaurants with the highest standards she’d ever seen. Arriving back home, she opened her own restaurant Ramses in Newmarket in 1989, her first dining magnet for Auckland’s fun and corporate crowds, which she ran for nine years.

Next was Sky City where she worked out a restraint of trade, learnt about bigger business management, and that the corporate environment wasn’t her thing.

“Then I went and managed Mikano and thought, ‘Wow, on the waterfront you get all this revenue from the same amount of work.’ I was going to buy in there but the offer to buy into Soul came up, and that’s when the stars aligned.”

Tabron shares her key to success : “I’ve had some great mentors through the years. I’ve worked for very good operators, and haven’t wasted time working for people who haven’t added to my career.

“For most of my adult working life I’ve been a mother and for any woman, you always feel you’re not doing so well, so you try and balance the two. But I can say I’ve achieved work/life balance because I’ve had many very good people working with me for such a long time.”

Since the restaurant sale was announced, questions about Tabron’s next move have been constant but it’s way too early for her to even think about it.

She’s booked an extended break in the south of France mid-year with her husband, and she’s determined her break will stretch into boredom – because that’s likely when her next move will show itself. “I’m guessing opportunities will arise – something will come up that interests me.” n Hospitality BUSINESS | March 2018 | 19

INTERIOR DESIGN

ADVERTORIAL

Statement iD’s expertise lies in sourcing and selecting original and authentic products which are fit for purpose.

Strategic Approach Brings Proven Success

E

stablished by Tracy Cook-Kelland and Kate Russell, Statement Inspired Design Ltd specialise in Turnkey Hotel Fitouts. They work from their designer furniture showroom in Auckland’s CBD, which holds samples of the latest commercial fabrics from all fabric houses, as well as samples of table tops, lighting, artwork, and room smalls to help make product selection easy for their clients.

The showroom also showcases international furniture brands for whom Statement iD are the authorised reseller; TON from the Czech Republic and Lebello Outdoor from the United States. TON’s specialty is beautifully crafted, award-winning timber dining chairs and tables (including the original bentwood designs which they’ve been making for over 100 years), whilst Lebello’s furniture is made from gorgeous, colourful Techropes made in Italy.

Both commercially rated brands exemplify a contemporary aesthetic and exquisite craftmanship, with new designs released annually at Salone de Mobile in Milan, TON and Lebello are global frontrunners for designer furniture for hospitality fitouts.

As well as bringing international brands to the local marketplace, Statement iD have developed their own range of luxury furniture that’s designed inhouse or in collaboration with local furniture designers and manufactured locally. They’ve developed a designer range for a roll-out of high-end retirement villages and have also developed custom pieces for hotels, lobby areas and resorts.

Statement iD have a dedicated sales team that can work either directly with you, or alongside your architect or designer to specify fitfor-purpose furniture for all commercial or residential projects.

They also offer transparent, and efficient Furniture, Fixture and Equipment (FF&E) and Hotel Operating Equipment (OS&E) procurement services to both small and large-scale projects – from Hotels to Retirement Villages, Restaurants, Bars, Motels and even Campsites, with clients that include developers, designers, architects and specifiers looking for expertise in sourcing and selecting original and authentic products that are fit-for-purpose and meet the budget requirements.

Statement iD are considered established industry players with experience in complex, and multi-faceted contract installations. Most

of their projects are within New Zealand and the Pacific region with current projects including the soon-to-open Four Points by Sheraton on Auckland’s Queen St, the Adina Hotel in the CBD and a resort in the Islands, as well as retirement villages throughout New Zealand.

With trusted manufacturers and suppliers from around the globe, Statement iD’s strategic approach to project delivery, along with their experience in project management and design, ensures they brings proven processes to every job, guaranteeing delivery on time and on budget.

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES • FF+E and OS&E Procurement • Full Turnkey Service • Furniture Specification • Hard Finish Specification and Procurement • Value Engineering of Design Concepts • Custom Designer Furniture • International Furniture Brands • Purpose Lighting • Decorative Lighting PARTNERING WITH STATEMENT ID Their approach is to be an extension of your business, achieving your objectives with an attitude that is focused on providing accurate and timely information that allows well-considered decisions to be made.

• Strategic approach to project delivery • Carefully planned implementation to take into account budgets, programme and risks • Whole project approach to ensure the final solution is socially and economically sustainable • Passion for inspired designer furniture and furnishings that is fit for purpose • Expertise in Hotels, Resorts, Restaurants, Bars, Retirement Villages • Transparent, efficient and effective tendering and procurement services • Programme development and implementation • Well established vendor relationships both locally and offshore • Personalised service with a collaborative approach n www.statementid.co.nz

20 | March 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS

www.ServiceIQ.org.nz

0800 863 693

Please call ServiceIQ now to find out how your hospitality business can go to the next level with one small step. With ServiceIQ it could even be free.

The difference comes down to three words and one simple and effective concept: on-job training.

It’s the difference between just doing the job and doing it brilliantly. So brilliantly in fact, that your customers come back more often, spend more, bring their friends and colleagues, write favourable reviews and recommend you to others.

Some people have a talent for service, but they still need to learn the right skills to do it well. The tricks of the service trade. The art of satisfying customers.

IT TAKES A LOT MORE THAN WEARING AN APRON, AND CARRYING A COFFEE, TO BE A WAITER.

TRAINED

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Aspiring Chefs Swap

South Auckland for

Spain

A company which organises culinary and pastry internships for keen chefs from all over the globe, has established a relationship with South Auckland's newest culinary school - Ignite Colleges

A

uckland’s newest cookery school is making culinary history, with trailblazing programmes that include internships at top Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain.

Manukau’s Ignite Colleges opened its school of culinary arts on February 12, with a range of innovative courses for the country’s next generation of chefs. As part of their training, students will have the chance to learn from the world’s best, by interning in their choice of more than 20 one, two and three Michelin-starred restaurants around Spain. Amongst those on offer are renowned establishments Disfrutar, La Botica, Culler de Pau, La Solana, Annua, and Nacho Manzano.

The career-propelling opportunity is thanks to a partnership between Ignite Colleges and e-Spain, a company which organises culinary and pastry internships for wannabe chefs from all over the globe. e-Spain Founder & CEO Angel Moreton says he has placed numerous culinary arts students from as far afield as Ireland, America, Sweden, Kazakhstan, Nicaragua and Cuba into his internship programmes, but this is the first time he has ever worked with a cookery school in New Zealand.

“If you want to be a top chef you need to mix and cook with leaders in the industry.You need to make those international connections,” says Angel.

“After finishing their studies, it is crucial for cookery students to go into a business to see how it runs and immerse themselves in the food culture and restaurant culture at that level. Spain is now considered to be top of the world in culinary arts, so it is the perfect place for students to do that.”

Internships range from three to nine months, and e-Spain also arranges everything from visas to accommodation, and even Spanish lessons (although Angel is quick to point out that most manage to get by on English, and the limited Spanish they pick up in the kitchen).

“We work hard to match the right student with the right restaurant so that they can get the very best from their experience. Everyone has a different goal. Some want to open their own restaurants, some want

22 | March 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS

to specialise in local cuisine or molecular cuisine, some have a passion for seafood. There are so many options and opportunities. Not every student wants to go to a Michelin-starred restaurant such as Disfrutar.

They may prefer to work at a high-end bakery that creates the desserts for a Michelin-star restaurant. We can arrange that too.”

Angel has lived all over the world, including stints promoting Spanish food and wine for the Spanish government in New York and Miami.

He has worked with some of the most esteemed culinary schools on the planet and has also opened one – the International School of Culinary Arts – in Spain.

Now, through e-Spain, he connects cookery students with top chefs, hosts wine and food tours all over Spain, and has launched some of the world’s most exciting culinary competitions including the first world professional tapas competition (which took place in Spain last November) and the first worldwide black truffle competition, held a month later.

Top chef and Ignite Colleges General Manager Jasbir Kaur has experienced first-hand the benefits that immersion in the Spanish food culture can bring. Early last year she spent four months working at Disfrutar, returning to Spain again in November to represent New Zealand in the inaugural world tapas event.

“Nearly every top chef in the world has spent time working at (the now closed) elBulli, in Catalonia. Today the top chefs who are coming through work at places like Disfrutar – and now Ignite Colleges cookery students will have an exclusive chance to learn from them,” says Jasbir.

“This is an incredible opportunity and one that is not offered by any other culinary arts school in New Zealand.”

Ignite’s internship students will learn an array of cutting edge skills, from cooking techniques to management styles. They’ll rotate through every station in the restaurant, accompany chefs to gather food from local farms, and learn about traditional and local ingredients.

But they are not the only ones who will benefit.

“Many very good friends of mine are top chefs in Spain,” explains Angel. “They love taking on interns from overseas because not only is

TRAINING it a great learning experience for the intern, but it also gives the chefs and restaurants themselves the chance to learn about new ingredients from other countries, and different styles of cooking. It is a shared opportunity that brings fresh perspectives for everyone.”

The problem is, busy chefs don’t have the time or expertise to find the interns, or organise the internships.

“That’s where I come into it. I take care of all of that. I make sure the match is perfect and sort out the visas and accommodation so that the chefs and the students don’t need to do anything other than enjoy, learn and get the best experience.”

With an Ignite Colleges qualification and Spanish internship behind them, our newest wave of Kiwi chefs will be well-placed to launch successful careers in the industry.

And as Angel points out, while some graduates may use the internship programme as a springboard to a global culinary career, many will return to New Zealand, bringing with them fresh flavours, skills and ideas.

“Ignite Colleges and their students are going to change the landscape of culinary arts in New Zealand. The world of food is changing so much. Ten or fifteen years ago chefs were hiding in the kitchens, now they are stars and everybody wants to be one. Never before in history has culinary arts been at the top of the page like it is now. We need to take advantage of it.” n The physical address of the college is: 98 Kerrs Rd, Wiri, Auckland 2104 Website: www.ignitecolleges.ac.nz

e-Spain Founder & CEO Angel Moreton with Ignite Colleges General Manager, and international chef, Jasbir Kaur.

Hospitality BUSINESS | March 2018 | 23

TRAINING

Top Students Prepare for Battle Royal Hospitality students from around the country are gearing up to put it all on the line, as they prepare to battle it out at the 2018 Nestlé Toque d’Or competition.

The event which pits the country’s top culinary and restaurant service talents against each other in a live kitchen cook off, enters its 28th year in 2018.

Last year, a team from Toi Ohomai Institute of Technology in Rotorua took out the coveted title.

Organised by NZChefs in conjunction with Nestlé Professional and supported by top organisations involved in the hospitality industry, it’s considered to be the premium competition for the country’s emerging culinary and restaurant service superstars.

Last year ten of the country’s top training institutes each sent a team of three to the event. In the gruelling lead up, competitors spent months perfecting menus and routines to earn top marks from the judges.

To succeed on competition day, teams must prepare and serve six covers of a three-course meal within a set timeframe. They also need to impress a panel of top industry judges who score their efforts against strict World Chefs’ marking criteria.

Make a note in your diary today. Nestlé Toque d’Or will be held on Monday 13 August at the Auckland Showgrounds. An awards dinner will be held later in the evening where the winning team will be crowned.

Sponsors include Nestlé Professional, Beef + Lamb New Zealand, vegetables.co.nz, Akaroa Salmon, House of Knives, Moffat and NZChefs.

Nestle Toque d’Or competition dates announced.

Collaborative Communication Workshops Often it's not what you say but how you say it that can land you in trouble.

Hospitality New Zealand is launching a new workshop to help supervisors, managers and owners tackle the tricky area of communication.

The workshop explores face to face communication with both your team and customers; as well as written communication - especially social media and online reviews.

Topics covered in this workshop include: • How do we communicate?

• Your personal communication style and brand.

• Emotional intelligence – what is it and how it can impact the way we communicate.

• Written communication – the hidden dangers of the written word.

• Dealing with online reviews – a focus on how to effectively respond rather than react.

Running throughout the country during March/April 2018.

Register now at www.hospitalitynz.org.nz/training/calendar Supported by the Hospitality Training Trust.

T RA I N I N G ACA D E M Y

Experience for yourself why Hospitality New Zealand is the best and call us for membership on 0800 500 503.

TRADE FAIRS

DIARY DATES UPCOMING EVENTS IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY

BIDFOOD TRADE SHOWS 5 APRIL - GREYMOUTH Omoto Racecourse, Omoto Road State Highway 7, Kaiata, Greymouth

9 APRIL - TIMARU Southern Trusts Events Centre, 70 Morgans Road, Glenwood, Timaru.

10 APRIL - CHRISTCHURCH Horncastle Arena, 55 Jack Hinton Drive, Addington, Christchurch.

12 APRIL – NELSON Annesbrooke Church, 40 Saxton Rd West, Stoke.

17 APRIL – DUNEDIN More FM Arena, Edgar Centre, Corner of Portsmouth Drive & Teviot St, Dunedin.

18 APRIL – INVERCARGILL ILT Stadium Southland, Court 6 & 7, Surrey Park Sports Centre, Isabella St.

15 - MARCH

2018 CHAMPION OF CHEESE AWARDS GALA COCKTAIL EVENING 15 MARCH.

19 APRIL – QUEENSTOWN Queenstown Memorial Centre, 1 Memorial St Queenstown bidshows.co.nz/visitors

This exclusive Gala Cocktail evening is at Fale Pasifika, 20 Wynyard Street, Auckland. https://nzsca.org.nz/

16 – 25 MARCH

MELBOURNE WINE & FOOD SHOW

Melbourne Food and Wine Festival is an annual state-wide celebration of Victoria’s food and wine industry. A must for foodies!

It will celebrate the State’s love of food and wine while also exploring how the way in which we eat impacts the liveability of our communities both no and in the future. http://www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au

22-24 MARCH

MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL COFFEE EXHIBITION (MICE)

MICE is one of Asia Pacific’s largest speciality coffee events, featuring more than 120 exhibitors from the coffee, tea, diary and ancillary supply industries. www.internationalcoffeeexpo.com

24 MARCH

NEW ZEALAND COFFEE FESTIVAL

Shed 10, 89 Quay Street Auckland , New Zealand http://nzcoffeefestival.co.nz/

HAVE YOU HEARD THE NEWS?

APRIL 14-15

AsureQuality (in partnership with Primary ITO) is offering a low cost way to enhance an employee’s on the job training and knowledge.

EXPRESSIONS ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT CENTRE, 836 Fergusson Drive Upper Hutt, New Zealand. http://nzcra.org.nz/events/

Talk to us today about the Food Skills and Job Skills programmes, designed for employees with little or no formal qualifications.

MEADOW FRESH NEW ZEALAND BARISTA CHAMPIONSHIP 2018

19-23 APRIL

SPECIALTY COFFEE ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA

Specialty coffee…from seed, to roaster, to barista, to cup-it is the crop that bonds us together as a community. Washington Convention Centre, Seattle Washington. http//coffeexpo.org/registration-information

( 0508 00 1122 www.asurequalitytraining.co.nz Your trusted partner for independent quality assurance services

Hospitality BUSINESS | March 2018 | 25

BEEF

Meat Menu on the

For restaurants that want to offer diners an elevated experience, dry-aged beef is a no-brainer.

BY MADELINE WOOLWAY.

A

geing meat is a centuries-old practice, but it was once uncommon to see dry-aged beef at any restaurant. In fact, when Prime Restaurant introduced dry-aged beef to its menu in 1999, it was the first venue in Australia to do so.

“We’ve borne witness to how much its popularity has increased over almost two decades,” says Erwan Helary, head chef at Prime Restaurant.

“More people are becoming educated about dry ageing and understand its benefits across both grass-fed and grain-fed cattle, which is reflected in the number of restaurants now offering dry-aged beef.”

Dry-ageing techniques fell out of favour in the mid-twentieth century, when the development of vacuum packing allowed wet ageing to become the dominant method.The reason? While both processes help tenderise the meat, wet ageing does so without causing moisture loss. It also requires less space and time. All things considered, wet ageing is the cheaper option.

However, dry ageing offers something wet ageing can’t — flavour enhancement. Wet ageing lets the meat mature in its own blood, resulting in a slight metallic taste and a more subtle flavour profile.

“I personally don’t think the two processes are even close in terms of flavour and quality,” says chef Simon Evans of Wollongong’s Caveau, which he co-owns with Tom Chiumento. “Wet ageing is putting the cuts of meat into vacuum-sealed bags shortly after slaughter, where some enzyme development will occur,” he says. “It works out cheaper because there is no moisture loss and it’s not aged as long as dry ageing.

It’s probably preferable to eating it the same day as slaughter, but nothing compares to a 30-plus-day dry-aged cut of meat.”

Dry ageing on the other hand sees the meat hung up in climatecontrolled room for upwards of21 days.

“Typically, the process of having the beef strung up means it drains of the blood and water causing the fibres within the meat to shrink and become compact, resulting in an initial loss of around 30 percent of the beef chunk’s mass, as well as the exposed outer layer of meat which needs to be removed before serving,” says Helary.

26 | March 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS

Although dry ageing leads to weight loss, the concentrated flavour promotes smaller portion sizes.

“Dry ageing has three main effects on beef: moisture loss, tenderisation and a change in flavour profiles from enzymatic and bacterial action,” says Evans. “This basically means that your piece of meat will be smaller, increasingly tender, have a more concentrated flavour and will have developed flavours that you wouldn’t normally find in meat that has not been dry aged — including nutty, mushroom and Parmesan-like aromas and flavours.”

The longer the meat is left to age, the stronger the flavours will become, with different nuances appearing in peaks and troughs throughout the process. Different people will prefer beef aged for varying lengths of time, and it often depends on the venue and manner in which the product is served.

At Prime Restaurant, Helary has found the sweet spot is between three and five weeks. “That period creates the flavour profile we want — it gives a stronger flavour but doesn’t overstimulate your palate

HOW'S IT DONE

Large cuts of beef are placed into specialised cabinets or even rooms, kept at a specific temperature and humidity. Air is constantly being circulated around to prevent the growth of anything bad, while enzymes in the meat’s cells break down the protein, fats, and glycogen. This breakdown forms loads of amino and fatty acids, one in particular is very important to the flavour being achieved through the dry aging process – glutamate. Glutamate is integral to Umami, and is found in soy sauce and parmesan cheese. That’s not the only thing happening -bacteria breaks down the muscle fibres and connective tissues, oxidizing fat, and loosening up the collagen, leaving just tenderness behind.

BEEF

“It’s tastier, has better texture and is actually easier to cook.”

– Simon Evans

AGED BUT NOT FAUX-ROTTEN

What is dry aging beef? When you look at it scientifically, dry aging is very controlled decomposition achieved through exposing untreated beef to very precise temperatures and humidity. This treatment is done with larger cuts of meat before being cut into steaks or roasts. This is due to a loss of overall meat volume because the outer layers of beef need to be carefully cut away.

They have become more like shoe leather, often growing a little mould. It’s okay - it’s safe! All of that gross stuff is cut away when the meat has reached ideal aging, leaving a more flavourful and tender piece of beef.

when you eat a whole steak,” he says. “There are a few places offering something like six to nine weeks and some are even doing 20. I think that’s interesting, but not for steak, maybe it’s better for a tasting plate.

We’re a steak restaurant serving portions between 200g and 1.5kg; if the flavour is too strong, it’s too much to eat.”

Caveau recently showcased beef that was dry-aged for 90-plus days. “We source our dry-aged meats through Nicholson & Saville in Sydney who buy from Richard Gunner in South Australia,” says Evans.

“The beef is dry aged for 90-plus days and is from breeds including Scottish Highland, Belted Galloway, Red Poll and South Devon. These breeds are out of favour in commercial Australian agriculture, which is focused on fast and efficient production, but produce flavourful beef and each breed has their own distinctive characteristics.”

SOURCING THE BEST The increasing popularity of dry-aged beef combined with a movement towards artisanal products has led some restaurants to age meat in-house. However, Prime Restaurant and Caveau prefer to purchase dry-aged meat from butchers.

“If you have a specialised dry-ageing cabinet, then yes, dry age to your heart’s content,” says Evans. “These are some pretty expensive bits of kit though. If, like most restaurants, you just have a temperaturecontrolled cool room, I would definitely recommend leaving pieces of meat uncovered on racks for a few days before cooking, this just helps to avoid spoilage and to let the outside of the meat dry out, which increases the Maillard reaction when cooking. But you cannot truly dry age meat without keeping the meat at a specific range of temperature and humidity. At Caveau, we would rather spend the money with our butchers than thousands of dollars on a cabinet.”

Helary agrees it’s ultimately up to venues to decide whether or not to dry age in-house, but also cautions against it.

“If they have the appropriate space and technology to provide a quality process as well as the accompanying knowledge then why not?” he says.

“It is however an expensive process which can often result in wastage if certain cuts are not sold promptly due to fluctuations in demand.”

It’s also worth considering the length of time it will take to learn the art and science of dry ageing.

“Working as a chef is one thing, working as a butcher is another,” says Helary. “You can dry age your own meat, but you need to train as a butcher. Chefs can google anything now, but skill comes with repetition. We use technology to cook the perfect steak, but it takes more than that.”

Besides a strong relationship with suppliers, what should chefs look for when purchasing dry-aged beef?

“The most important qualities are taste and tenderness,” says Helary.

“We inspect all cuts bought and if anything is less than perfect, it is sent back to the butcher.”

When inspecting dry-aged beef at Caveau, Evans and his team keep a few things in mind. “First, the beef shouldn’t smell bad or be sour. It’s a surprisingly clean smell, but it will look dry and may even have some slight white mould on it and have a Parmesan or truffle aroma.” >> Hospitality BUSINESS | March 2018 | 27

BEEF RAISING THE STAKES “Due to a lot of the moisture being lost, cooking dry-aged steak well done tends to dry out the meat too much,” says Helary. “It is recommended for a rare to medium–rare cook with little seasoning and sauce. Salt the cut prior to cooking and sear off the outside.

“We train staff to provide recommendation and commentary for every steak on the menu. I don’t recommend having dry-aged meat blue either; you won’t have the full experience because they tend to be fattier cuts of meat.”

While the dry-ageing process may result in overcooked meat, it also has its benefits.

“It’s tastier, has better texture and is actually easier to cook,” says Evans. “The loss of moisture enables you to get an amazing crust on your steak.”

The length of time spent ageing also affects cooking methods.

“For example, if a whole sirloin has been aged for 20–30 days, then cut into steaks, you’re good to go,” says Evans. “I like to leave the cut steak in the fridge on a rack overnight before cooking to partially dry out the exposed surfaces. [With the] 90-plus-day dry-aged sirloin on the menu from Richard Gunner, the ends were black, completely dry and had some mould build up. So with a longer ageing process, you have to trim the sides to remove this before cooking.”

The cost of dry-aged beef might be prohibitive for some venues, but for those who can afford it, why not?

As Evans says, “It may cost you more, but when diners eat a properly aged and cooked steak, they realise what beef should actually taste like.” n First appeared in Hospitality magazine, Australia.

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28 | March 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS

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Hospitality BUSINESS | March 2018 | 29

INDUSTRY VIEWPOINT

Adapting ANZSCO to meet job market requirements The Restaurant Association and other business organisations are currently engaging with Immigration NZ (INZ) on the ANZSCO database of occupation descriptions which are currently used in the assessment process for visa applications. The Association is urging for a review of the occupation classifications in 2018.

I

f you have supported a staff member in their visa application process you will be aware that each ANZSCO description lists the tasks involved in each occupation. ANZSCO is the standard which INZ uses to classify the skill level of a wide range of jobs, when assessing work and residence visa applications, comparing the ANZSCO description against your employee’s job description.

Marisa Bidois ANZSCO skill levels have been determined - Chief Executive

by Statistics New Zealand and the Australian Bureau of Statistics, considering factors such as: the level or amount of formal education and training, the amount of previous experience in a related occupation, and the amount of on-the-job training.

However, the database has many limitations. It is by no means an exhaustive list of all occupations; therefore a common complaint is that the ANZSCO descriptions are not compatible with many roles within our industry. This results in difficulty choosing the closest fit role description and a job specification mismatch when INZ makes the comparison between the employee’s role and that closest fit ANZSCO classification. This is frustrating for business owners and employees (and no doubt INZ).

What happens if there is a mismatch? Unless an employee’s role description fundamentally matches the comparable ANZSCO role description the result will often be a recommendation by INZ that an alternate role classification is a better match. This delays the application process and potentially results in a downgrade of the position from a higher skilled ANZSCO level occupation (level 2 or 3), to a lower one (level 4 or 5).

30 | March 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS

A survey in February of Restaurant Association members indicated that 59 per cent of employers that have supported an employee in their work visa application over the past 12 months have had an issue that specifically relates to the ANZSCO database/ position descriptions.

Of those, 63 per cent said that INZ had indicated that the reason for the problem was that their job position description did not match the ANZSCO database description.

The main hospitality-related occupations with issues appear to be chefs and cooks and restaurant / café managers, duty managers and bar managers. This aligns with the Association’s survey results, which further asked what position did the ANZSCO issue relate to. The highest number of issues related to those applying under the restaurant / café manager role (37 per cent), followed by 20 per cent for the duty manager role and 12 per cent each for sous chef, chef de partie and commis chef.

Problems relating to the chef classification arise because there are a wide-ranging number of levels that exist in the kitchen – from executive chefs / head chefs, right down to commis chefs and apprentices (and every role in between). The ANZSCO fails to address the difference between the levels, nor the vast differences in role requirements related to the size of the business. Chefs are often re-matched as cooks and as one member indicated in the survey, “unless chefs are split into more categories, it is like a lottery who gets 1 year and who gets 3 year visas”.

Another member voiced their concerns: “The requirement can only be met by large businesses. We are a small business where the chef has sole charge. Immigration required that the chef had people working under them. We are too small a business to meet the requirements.

Can’t find local staff can’t employ immigrants either.”

INDUSTRY VIEWPOINT Senior front of house roles are additionally also often wrought with problems. One of the reasons for this is that ANZSCO includes occupational classifications for junior roles such as waiters, baristas and bar attendants (classed as skill level 4 occupations) and senior management level roles (café and restaurant managers (skill level 2), however, it is silent on intermediate level management positions such as duty managers and maitre D’s. When assessing the closest fit, an application for a café or restaurant manager will often be re-assessed by INZ as a better match for a retail supervisor ANZSCO classification (a level 4 occupation). One member commented: “We sponsored our both our bar manager and restaurant supervisor and there was no corresponding code so they were put through as a retail supervisor with a level 4 skill level.”This highlights to us that there are some significant fundament issues in the front of house role classifications and descriptions.

The RA is working hard to draw attention to the issues with ANZSCO, which often results in employees wrongly classified into a job role that bears little match to their actual day to day position and causes frustration for employees and employers due to the delays of a role mismatch and reassessment (for example a downgrade from a level 2 or 3 position to a level 4 or 5 position will result in the the employer needing to take the additional step of obtaining a Skills Match Report).

It is important to get the ANZSCO classification and its associated skill level right the first time. We assert there is a need for a realignment of the description to better fit current work situations.

We will keep members informed as our engagement with INZ continues and would like to thank all members who have provided input so far. Members are always encouraged to contact the Restaurant Association should you need to discuss any particular immigration issues you may be having. n

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HUMAN RESOURCES

Seeking staff – starts at Secondary School Industry professionals are desperately seeking trained Kiwis to fill hospo jobs reports Catherine Milford

S

earch the word ‘chef ’ on job-finding website Seek, and you’ll find no shortage of options: at any one time you’re likely to see in excess of 500 chef positions around New Zealand there. From fine dining eateries to country pubs, industry professionals are desperate to find Kiwis who are trained in the culinary arts. Popular Auckland eatery Café Hanoi boss Jason van Dorsten, for example, has been advertising for chefs for the past four years, at a cost of $10,000 just for placing the ads. He still does.

Despite there being plenty of work in an industry that experts conservatively suggest has seen a growth of almost five percent annually over the past five years, finding a trained Kiwi chef is proving near-impossible for many restaurateurs. This skill shortage has become a big problem for the industry; however there are hospitality experts on hand trying to reverse the trend. This September, Mark Wylie, National Account Sales Manager at Southern Hospitality, will take his place as head judge for the fifth year running for the National Secondary Schools Culinary Competition (NSSCC), in which Years 12 and 13 students cook at regional and national level for a range of prizes, including scholarships for internationally-recognised culinary training courses and professional cooking equipment.

“Secondary schools have a big part to play in the cultivation of students’ talent and skill – many schools don’t necessarily encourage vocational subjects like the culinary arts, even though there’s some fantastic talent coming through,” says Mark, whose CV includes roles as Director of Kitchens at SkyCity, and Executive Chef at Auckland’s Soul Bar & Bistro. “There is a lot of good work going on at schools with suitable kitchens, but the reality is that a lot of secondary schools can’t teach the culinary arts, either because of a lack of equipment or because they can’t afford it. I know the interest is there, because I see and talk to these students in my work, but the ability to access the means to cook often requires looking at options outside of the school curriculum.”

The National Secondary Schools Culinary Competition was created to support students thinking about a career in hospitality. Students

32 | March 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS

Mark Wylie, - “ finding a trained Kiwi chef is proving near-impossible for many restaurateurs.”

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HUMAN RESOURCES from regions across the North and South Islands take part in local heats, in which they are required to create two separate entrée dishes, each following healthy eating guidelines, using New Zealand-grown tomatoes as the main component. Winners from each region then team up into pairs and represent their area at the Grand Final, held at Manukau Institute of Technology (M.I.T.) in September, in which they must create an entrée and a main, using New Zealand ingredients including potatoes, three vegetables and a supreme cut of Waitoa free range chicken.

“Secondary schools have a big part to play in the cultivation of students’ talent and skill” - Mark Wylie, National Account Sales Manager at Southern Hospitality “NSSCC is a great idea. Ideally I’d like every New Zealand school to enter students into the competition,” says Mark. “It provides a unique perspective on life in a professional kitchen that students wouldn’t normally have access to.”

Like, for example, getting a New Zealand Culinary Journey masterclass and demonstrations from some of New Zealand’s top chefs, including My Kitchen Rules favourites Ben Bayly and Gareth Stewart, and legendary chef and owner of Antoines, Anthony Astle. “Finalists are

34 | March 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS

given the opportunity to meet and have their food judged by a panel of some professional heavyweights who specialise in developing young talent – they really want to see them succeed,” says Mark. “If a student stands out, it’s not unusual for one of the judges to pull them aside and exchange details to make sure they are on hand to help nurture that student’s career path.”

So with a plethora of jobs available, and some of the best ingredients in the world available to work with, why do we have a dearth of young professionals coming through the ranks? According to Mark, there isn’t a simple answer. “Cooking shows have raised the profile of chefs in New Zealand, but the reality is you can’t learn to become a qualified chef in 12 weeks. Evenings and weekends are work times - there are sacrifices to be made,” he explains. “I also get annoyed when a talented student is told they are ‘too clever’ to be a chef. There’s no such thing. Look at Heston Blumenthal: his success comes from a science background, and he uses science in his kitchen all the time. It’s the same with Josh Emett, who has way over and above the trade skills needed, and is extremely successful. In the kitchen, it doesn’t matter how high your IQ is – if you love it, and you have talent, you’ll do well.”

And for those who do train, the options are endless, with kitchen skills like time management, creativity and teamwork being very transferrable going forward. “Hospitality is a very rewarding and innovative career – it’s hard work, but the rewards are significant,” explains Mark. “It’s hard to describe the feeling a chef gets at the end of a busy service – you get real gratification for what you do, which can’t be said for many career options. And I know it’s a cliché, but you really can travel the world if you’re a trained chef – and everywhere you go will increase your cultural awareness, which in turn will increase your skill level. If I had my way, every hospitality student would try their hand at NSSCC.” n

New Zealand’s largest hospitality audience eNewsletter

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www.theshout.co.nz March 2018

The Business

Bourbon

of

PLUS ALEXANDRA WINE • NEW ZEALAND HOPS • PARROTDOG Q&A

N E W Z E A L A N D ’ S L A R G E ST L I Q U O R AU D I E N C E

International Credentials for Sommeliers An exciting opportunity for the wine and hospitality sectors of New Zealand has once again become available to all wine and service professionals.

The Court of Master Sommeliers is returning to New Zealand to offer its highly prestigious certification programme. The first two levels of the four level Sommelier Programme will again be available to career minded individuals who have a passion for people, service, wine and beverages.

The Court of Master Sommeliers is an internationally recognised examining body. Career minded individuals who want or require the correct credential for their chosen profession can engage in this programme to enhance their career, employment prospects and further validate their role in the hospitality sector.

Sommeliers can and do make a significant difference to beverage sales in any On or Off-premise business.

WHEN AND WHERE Introductory Course and exams May 26th - 28th 2018: Lakeside Room, Villa Maria, Mangere, Auckland. $850.00 programme and exam fee*.

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ENQUIRIES to: Cameron J. Douglas – Master Sommelier email: cameron@guildsomm.com For more information about the Court of Master Sommeliers please visit: www.courtofmastersommeliers.org.

Comprehensive textbook available now NZ$80.00. *Members or new members of the New Zealand Sommeliers and Wine Professionals Association are offered a discount to the Level One course. http://www.sommelier.co.nz/

EDITORIAL

The Shout Editor Charlotte Cowan EDITORIAL

In with the new With 95% of the world’s bourbon produced in Kentucky, it’s fair to say that the Bluegrass State is also the bourbon capital of the world - so visiting some of the top distilleries is a must-do. Take a look at our Postcard from Kentucky on pgs 6-8.

But while the business of bourbon is pretty old, we’re also taking a look at what’s new in our little piece of the world and there’s a lot going on this month.

From exciting new product launches on pg 10, to a classic lager and a brew bar opening on pg 15 and wine made by a former rocker all the way from Washington State on pg 11 – there’s so much to try, and buy, so shine up that credit card!

For more from The Shout NZ, check out our Instagram and Facebook pages @theshoutnz and make sure you take a look at our amazing new-and-improved website at www.theshout.co.nz where you can sign up to our fortnightly eNewsletters. Cheers!

Contents 04 Industry news and insights 06 Postcard from Kentucky A trip around the bourbon capital of the world

14 The wine regions of New Zealand

A map showing all the places you can drink a good drop

15 Dogged determination Q&A with Parrotdog’s Matt Kristofski and Matt Warner

10 New on shelf

This month’s exciting new product launches

11 Between a rock and a wine place

16 The pursuit of hoppiness Beer writer John Oszajca takes a look at the star of brewing

Q&A with US rocker-turnedwinemaker Charles Smith

12 Alexandra Wine Country

Tasting notes from Cameron Douglas MS

Editor’s picks CRAFTERS UNION WINE CANS No more searching the house for a semisophisticated plastic cup to take to picnics, Crafters Union Wine Cans are easily transportable so you can enjoy your favourite Crafters Hawke’s Bay Rosé or Pinot Gris and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc anywhere, anytime. And for just $7.99 each, there really is no reason not to give them a go. For more info, visit www.craftersunionwines.com and for this month’s other exciting product launches, head to pg 10.

IMMIGRANT’S VINEYARD RURU CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT NOIR

Published By The Intermedia Group Ltd 505 Rosebank Road, Avondale Auckland, 1026, New Zealand Managing Director-Publisher Dale Spencer dspencer@intermedianz.co.nz Editor Charlotte Cowan ccowan@intermedianz.co.nz 021 774 080 Sales Manager Sam Wood swood@intermedianz.co.nz 021 256 6351

Amazing New Zealand wine doesn’t just come from Marlborough, Central Otago produces loads of delicious drops just waiting for you to try, like this stunning ruby-red Pinot Noir from Immigrant’s Vineyard. It’s just one of the wines from the Alexandra region that Cameron Douglas MS reviews in this month’s tasting notes on pgs 12-13.

PARROTDOG LAGER With no name and deliberately modest packaging, Parrotdog’s new Lager is a deliciously classic lager brewed for simplicity and drinkability. The perfect brew for those looking for less hops. For more from Parrotdog, visit www.parrotdog.co.nz and don’t forget to check out our Q&A with Matt Kristofski and Matt Warner on pg 15.

TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | March 2018 | 3

NEWS NEWS WINE NEWS

Greystone releases new Chardonnay North Canterbury vineyard Greystone has announced the release of its newest Chardonnay. Greystone Chardonnay 2016 was aged in French Oak barriques for several months to produce a full-bodied, buttery Chardonnay full of energy and freshness.

“Complex, familiar and enticing bouquet of Chardonnay with a creamy textured bouquet of yellow fleshed fruits, vanilla, oak spices, yoghurt and wild flowers,” says Cameron Douglas MS, who awarded the wine 96 points.

Greystone General Manager Nik Mavromatis says 2016 was a near perfect vintage in Waipara. “[It was] quite dry, which led to slower vine development but this also lead to great flavours.

“We handpick all our organically managed grapes and then we gently bag press the Mendoza clone and foot crush the clone b95 so that we get phenolic balance in the wine. All wild fermented, aged in barriques without any racking and estate bottled without fining.

“This vintage has brought us a wine that is a little more open and giving in its youth, suppleness on the palate and that signature lime zest and peach on the finish,” says Mavromatis.

Greystone Chardonnay 2016 is available now, RRP $38.00. For more information, visit www.greystonewines.co.nz

New appointments Villa Maria Estate has appointed Abe Salt as its new Chief Executive Officer, taking over from Sir George Fistonich. Sir Fistonich, who has been at the helm of the company for more than 55 years, will continue to have a hands-on role as Founder and President.

“Due to Villa Maria’s success as a major player globally, my ambassador role has become extremely time consuming,” says Sir Fistonich. “As the CEO, Abe will be able to manage the important day to day operations and strategic priorities for the company. This will allow me to concentrate on my global brand ambassadorial role and drive other large projects such as the development of our new winery and retail centre in Hawke's Bay.” Salt joins Villa Maria with 15 years’ experience across the wine industry, investment banking and strategic advisory. He will commence as CEO this month.

The Brewers Association of New Zealand has appointed Dylan Firth as its Executive Director, based in Wellington.

Firth joins the Brewers Association after four years with Hospitality New Zealand, most recently as Advocacy and Policy Manager.

Firth says he is excited about the opportunity to make a meaningful contribution to the industry.

“The brewing industry has changed rapidly in the past decade. I’m committed to providing the Brewers Association members and wider industry with strategic support to help it grow and develop into the future,” he says.

The Brewers Association of New Zealand was established in October 2017 as a stand-alone entity, having separated from the Australian Brewers Association.

EVENT

New Zealand’s first gin festival coming to Christchurch New Zealand’s first and only premium gin festival, Gindulgence, is taking place in Christchurch this month.

Established by Christchurch’s Curiosity Gin, in partnership with The Ilam Homestead, Gindulgence will feature New Zealand’s top gin producers, including Curiosity Gin, Rogue Society, Sacred Spring, Juno, Hidden World, Karven and Lighthouse.

The gin will be complemented by some of Christchurch’s best food trucks, live music and the opportunity to attend gin, cocktail and tonic masterclasses in the onsite Gin Theatre.

“New Zealand is known around the world for our wine and increasingly for our great craft beers. There is now also a burgeoning craft gin scene, and New Zealand craft gin is beginning to get recognised internationally as well,” says Curiosity Gin part-owner, Antony Michalik. “Our gins are a real reflection of the taste of New Zealand. Taking our inspiration from the land and utilising local ingredients such as Manuka, a wide variety of other native botanicals, plus our pure artesian water gives us an edge and the ability to produce high quality unique products. Gindulgence is a fantastic opportunity to get gin lovers together to enjoy and showcase the best of New Zealand gins,” he says.

Gindulgence will take place on 24 March at the Ilam Homestead, Christchurch. Gates open from 12pm. Tickets cost $35.00 and include a festival glass, tastings of all gins, plus access to the Gin Theatre.

For more information, visit www.gindulgence.co.nz

4 | March 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ

NEWS WINE NEWS WINE NEWS

The Shout NZ announces new wine medals!

The Shout NZ and Master Sommelier Cameron Douglas are thrilled to announce our stunning, new-and-improved 2018 wine medals!

Available now, these stylish medals are the perfect way to make your wine stand out from the crowd and share your high wine scores with the world.

The Shout NZ wine medals are available for reviews by Cameron Douglas MS of 90-99 points – based on the globally-accepted 100-point scoring system for recognising quality wine.

“Wine producers in New Zealand leverage more wine sales as a result of having stickers on bottles,” says Cameron Douglas MS. “I want the scores I give a wine noticed first. If a wine buyer is interested in who gave that score, then they’ll have to pick up the bottle to discover it is that of a Master Sommelier.”

The Shout NZ wine medals are available for $45.00 per thousand + GST. For more information, contact Sales Manager Samantha Mackey-Wood on 021 256 6351 or swood@intermedianz.co.nz

Louis Roederer named the World’s Most Admired Champagne Louis Roederer has been named the World’s Most Admired Champagne brand by Drinks International.

Chosen by a panel of judges, including wine retailers, wine writers, MWs and marketing experts, Louis Roederer beat out last year’s winner Bollinger to take the winner’s title.

“This is the year it’s finally made the top slot, which has been hogged exclusively

by Bollinger and Krug for the past three years,” says champagne expert, Giles Fallowfield. “What these three brands have in common is consistency. They don’t make bad wines and every year efforts are being made to improve quality, even when they appear to already be at the peak of their game.

That’s what it takes to build a great champagne brand – consistent quality over many years.”

Other brands named in the top five are Pol Roger, Charles Heidseick, BillecartSalmon and Krug.

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS

New Zealand beers getting global recognition

MARTIN CRAIG Brewers Guild of New Zealand www.brewersguild.org.nz

The world’s brewers are coming to New Zealand.

The Institute of Brewing & Distilling is holding its Asia-Pacific Convention in Wellington this month.

Around 300 brewers and distillers from all over the world are expected for the convention and the opportunity to try New Zealand’s prised beers at their source. The convention runs from Monday 19 March – craft brewing day – and closes on Friday 23rd with a coach tour visiting Wellington breweries.

With its relatively low alcohol contents, beer can suffer with travel, especially the hop-forward IPA styles so popular with Kiwi brewers and drinkers.

International brewers will jump at the chance to try a range of New Zealand beers served fresh and shared with the brewers themselves.

Emerson’s Brewing’s Chris O’Leary chairs the organising committee. His enthusiasm comes from attending an IBD Convention five years ago where he picked up techniques that are influencing his brewing today.

“I’m still looking back on my notes of things I learnt during that week – it took my brewing forward about two or three years,” he says. “I came back with advice on yeast management, using oak, new

techniques and technology, and these are things I would never have learnt if I had not gone to the Convention. That’s the kind of thing that will happen in Wellington.”

Techniques and technology aside, Chris says one of the biggest benefits comes from meeting other brewers.

“You’ll meet people there who you’ll be able to tap into in the future and your network will just explode.

You’ve got a connection now because you’ve had a couple of beers with them, they’ve tried your beer, and you become mates and colleagues for life. The best competitive edge you can get as a brewer is to go for the full week, because you’ll learn stuff that other brewers won’t get to hear.”

New Zealand’s malts, hops and beers already have a massive following overseas, and the IBD Convention is a great opportunity for New Zealand and international brewers to learn more about the ingredients and techniques that go to making a great New Zealand beer.

Martin Craig is a beer writer, journalist and publisher of www.beertown.nz

TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | March 2018 | 5

BOURBON

6 | March 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ

BOURBON

Postcard from

K

Kentucky

entucky lives and breathes bourbon; with the number of bourbon barrels easily outstripping the human population, Kentucky is undoubtedly the spiritual and physical home of the amber liquid. 95% of the world’s bourbon is made in the state, and with many of the top distilleries easily reachable from Louisville, Kentucky’s largest city, a visit to the area is a must-do for any serious aficionado of America’s official native spirit.

The leafy grounds of the Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, Kentucky

BUFFALO TRACE Start your bourbon journey at the Buffalo Trace Distillery in the state capital of Frankfort – around 90 kilometres from downtown Louisville.

Set on the banks of the winding Kentucky River, the lush green grounds of the distillery are home to more than 300,000 barrels of liquor aging in red-brick rackhouses.

“No other distillery in the world has won more awards than Buffalo Trace,” says Kris Comstock, Bourbon Marketing Director at Buffalo Trace. “Writers, enthusiasts, and spirits competitions around the world have awarded more than 500 accolades to our brands. The title of ‘world’s most award-winning distillery’ has been earned through the uncompromising dedication of our craftsmen for well over 200 years.”

As proof of its heritage, in 2013, Buffalo Trace Distillery became a National Historic Landmark, recognising the distillery and its people, builders, preservers and protectors. More recently, in 2016, Buffalo Trace unearthed what has come to be known as ‘Bourbon Pompeii’ – the foundations of a previously lost distillery from 1873, which was uncovered as workers prepared to renovate an old storage building close to the river.

Flagship bourbon, the Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, has been referred to by Jim Murray (author of the influential Whisky Bible) as “one of the world’s great whiskies”, and took home the ‘Best Straight Bourbon’ category at the 2016 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. It’s known for its balanced, pleasantly sweet taste and complex aroma of vanilla, mint and molasses. ry Woodford Reserve Distille

Buffalo Trace Bourbon also walked away with 11 Gold and 8 Silver medals from other US and international awards in 2016 and 2017 – a fact that was not lost on Jamie Dickens, National Sales Manager for Tickety-Boo Liquor, which distributes the Buffalo Trace Sazerac Portfolio in New Zealand. “The continued success of the Buffalo Trace Distillery at these prestigious competitions International only strengthens the brand locally in New Zealand, as consumers and bartenders seek high-end and quality product in an ever expanding cocktail market,” says Dickens. “Sazerac as a company produces some of the best whiskey in the world, so we strive to continue bringing these products into New Zealand for the whiskey connoisseurs and enthusiast.

As a company we aim to have the world’s best spirit and liqueurs in our portfolio, that win awards and the attention of our local market.”

WOODFORD RESERVE Next stop on the trail is the Woodford Reserve Distillery, tucked away in the rolling hills near the town of Versailles. The distillery here is one of only three in Kentucky that have gained the title of National Historic Landmark (joining Buffalo Trace and Maker’s Mark). It’s a scenic little spot, and the oldest and smallest on this tour – with iconic copper pot stills, the longest barrel run in the USA (at over 500 feet, entirely powered by gravity) and 100-year-old cypress wood fermenters that are still in use.

The distillery’s flagship liquid, the Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, is rich and chewy, and has earnt a swathe of awards over the past two decades, while the Woodford Reserve Double Oaked is an innovative, twice-barreled bourbon, with the second barrel deeply toasted and treated with a light charring, extracting more oak character.

There’s also the Masters Collection series of small batch products, which honour the pioneering work of early owner Oscar Pepper and Master Distiller James Crow way back in the 1800s and apply their handcrafted techniques.

Woodford Reserve is also the official bourbon of the Kentucky Derby, and is used to create some seriously lavish mint juleps on race day at Churchill Downs – pricing starts at $1000 for ‘Noble Cup’ (of which 90 are available) all the way up to $2500 for a gold-plated ‘Royal Cup’ (of which only 15 are made).

TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | March 2018 | 7

BOURBON WILD TURKEY

JIM BEAM

Just over 20km away, on the outskirts of the small town of Lawrenceburg, you’ll find the Wild Turkey distillery, home to the Wild Turkey and Russell’s Reserve catalogue. A family business through and through, the legendary Jimmy Russell – the world’s longest-tenured active master distiller at 83 years of age – was joined by his son Eddie Russell as a fellow master distiller in 2015.

The younger Russell was recently Down Under to unveil a special edition, Australia-only super-premium bourbon known as Master’s Keep 1894 – the latest release in the Master’s Keep series. The bourbon honours the oldest rackhouse on the Wild Turkey estate and the place where Eddie Russell first fell in love with bourbon. With layers of toffee and honey that give way to fruity notes of candied pear, stewed apples, spice, subtle oak and vanilla – before delivering a long, caramel finish – it’s best enjoyed neat.

“From the very first taste at Rickhouse A, I knew I wanted to dedicate my life to bourbon,” commented Russell. “Master’s Keep 1894 captures that moment, the start of my journey to master distiller and the beginning of years of tradition.”

Recently signing on Hollywood A-lister Matthew McConaughey as creative director and celebrity spokesman for the brand, Wild Turkey’s star is on the rise again, with global sales rising 14.6 percent since 2016.

For the final stop of the trip, take the 45 min drive through the countryside to Jim Beam, not far from the outskirts of Louisville.

The home of the world’s number-one selling bourbon, the Jim Beam American Stillhouse in Clermont also has the title of ‘Bourbon Disneyland’. While it might lack a little of the homely character that you’ve experienced at other stops on your journey, the distillery tour here is comprehensive and takes you through the basics of bourbon making, from the still to the rackhouse to the bottling line.

You’ll start and finish your tour in the gift shop where there’s also a nifty automated coupon system so you can try a swathe of the Jim Beam range. Try to time your visit here as the sun is setting; with 76 rackhouses dotting the surrounding landscape, it’s hard to envision a more picturesque conclusion to a whirlwind day in bourbon country.

All that’s left is to make the half an hour drive back to downtown Louisville; with a thriving bar scene, there’s plenty more fun to be had if you’ve got the energy. ■

MAKER’S MARK With three stops under the belt, it’s a good time to settle in for a nap – you’re now in for the longest drive of the trip so far, so hopefully you’ve managed to wrangle someone else to get behind the wheel.

There's 80km to cover, so plenty of time for a bit of shuteye on the way to the sleepy town of Loretto, home to the Maker’s Mark distillery.

As one of the only American-made whiskies to use the Scottish spelling of ‘whisky’, that’s not the only unique thing about Maker’s Mark: wheat, instead of rye, is used in the mash – the use of wheat resulting in gentler aromas than you find in rye bourbon, and grassy, grainy notes.

Maker’s is also famous for its distinctive redwax dipped bottle, a design that has stayed the same since the first run was bottled in 1958. And if you’re lucky, they’ll even let you dip your own bottle cap.

8 | March 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ

Originally published in BARS&clubs

NEW RELEASES

ONE

New on shelf Searching for something new to try? Take a look at these…

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SIX

FOUR 1 JUNO 2018 SUMMER GIN

Taranaki gin distillery, Juno, has launched its newest limited edition release - 2018 Summer Gin. Made using the potent Angelica grown at Kaitake Farms in Oakura, along with local bergamot oranges, 2018 Summer Gin is a vibrant and enticing summer spirit. The Shining Cuckoo, pipiwharauroa, on the label of 2018 Summer Gin reflects the feeling of summer holidays as the bird flies from New Guinea and the Solomon Islands to spend summer in New Zealand. Just 1000 bottles of 2018 Summer Gin are available.

RRP $42.00 www.junogin.co.nz

2 PARROTDOG LAGER

Refreshingly uncomplicated, Parrotdog Lager (4.5% ABV) is a classic lager brewed with New Zealand’s distinctive and underappreciated Green Bullet

hop. Parrotdog kept things deliberately simple in the name and packaging of the lager, to show ‘it is what it is’ with this new brew.

RRP $29.99 (12 x 330ml) Contact: orders@parrotdog.co.nz www.parrotdog.co.nz

ESTATE 3 SOLJANS TRIBUTE HAWKE’S BAY MERLOT MALBEC 2015

Sweet florals and cherries abound on the nose, set amongst a background of coffee and dried herbal aromas in this beautifully composed red from winemaker Tony Soljan. An elegant wine, it shows a core of ripe red fruits and hints of toasty spiciness.

Fine grained tannins lead the palate to its harmonious conclusion. Cellar for six years or more and enjoy with beef, lamb or venison.

RRP $39.99 www.soljans.co.nz

10 | March 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ

4 BLUSH GIN

Made locally by a team of two, Blush Gin is sweet enough to be beautiful, smooth enough to be enjoyed on the rocks and has enough alcohol content to make it a proper drink, with a colour that is true to the rhubarb itself. The very first batch was made in a 500ml jam jar and while batches are a bit bigger now, the same passion and love is still put into every bottle to make a truly memorable gin.

RRP $85.00 www.blushgin.co.nz

5

CRAFTERS UNION WINE CANS

Crafters Union have a desire to create something a little unique.

Their latest innovation offers the same quality wine from their 750ml range in a convenient 250ml can, making it easier to enjoy their wines anywhere, anytime. New Crafters Union Wine cans are packaged using

patented Vinsafe wine technology, ensuring premium quality, product integrity and longevity.

The range includes Hawke’s Bay Rosé 2017, Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2017 and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2017, available nationwide from March 19.

RRP $7.99 each www.craftersunionwines.com

6 PECKHAM’S CIDER

Peckham’s Cider’s new-look packaging has their ciders sitting pretty on the shelf. The classic range of ciders is now available in bright new six-packs, with the different colours reflecting the real fruit used in each variety.

Peckham’s grow their own cider apples in the Moutere Valley near Nelson and the 330ml cans range from 5.2% to 5.8% ABV. RRP $22.99 Contact Hop and Vine: orders@hopandvine.co.nz (027) 433 0687

Q&A

Between a rock and a wine place Rocker-turned-winemaker Charles Smith has launched his unconventional brand in New Zealand, so there’s no better time to try some Washington State wine.

It’s fair to say that most New Zealanders don’t include a lot of American wines in their shopping list. Coming from a land where Kiwi wine is king, it can be difficult for us to look outside our own vineyards (or those of France, Spain or Italy) to find a delicious drop. But rockerturned-winemaker, Charles Smith, is hoping to pique our interest in Washington State wine by launching three varietals into New Zealand stores. We grabbed a quick chat with the US’s rock star winemaker.

You spent almost a decade as managing rock bands, why did you decide to switch to winemaking?

Wine has actually been a lifelong interest of mine. From trying sips as a child at the dinner table, to working in kitchens at the age of 18, surrounded by food, and, of course, wine. Touring with rock bands throughout Europe, including the famed Danish duo, The Raveonettes, naturally came with much wining and dining – ultimately influencing my path and leading me to where I am now. After moving back to the United States in 1999, I opened a wine shop on Bainbridge Island, just across from downtown Seattle, and soon after found myself on a road trip to Walla Walla, Washington. It was there that I met a young Frenchman and winemaker, and together we discovered a common passion for great Syrah. Eventually, I was convinced to move to Walla Walla and make my own juice.

We don’t see a lot of wines from Washington State in New Zealand – can you describe the region?

I believe Washington to be the most exciting wine growing region in the world right now – not just because I’m here, but because I love the wine that’s being made here. Throughout Washington State, growers are focusing primarily on Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. The Charles Smith Wines collection highlights each of these revered Washington categories, while staying true to both typicity of varietal and vineyard. So, The Velvet Devil Merlot tastes like Merlot, Eve Chardonnay like Chardonnay and so on.

Where did you get your inspiration for the unconventional wine labels?

The goal is to communicate the language of wine to everyone. I do this by using straightforward words and symbols that everyone can understand to help tell the unique story behind each wine and to describe what’s in the bottle.

“The goal is to communicate the language of wine to everyone.”

Take Kung Fu Girl Riesling’s label for example, which was equally inspired by Lucy Liu and Uma Thurman’s epic fight in Kill Bill: Vol. 1, as well as the varietal’s ability to pair with spicy Asian takeout food. Or Eve Chardonnay, which is a total celebration of Washington State. Known as the Apple State and the top producer of apples in the US, Eve’s label features a bold Washington apple illustration, also hinting at the wine’s cool and crisp interpretation of the varietal. ■

THE MODERNIST PROJECT Smith launched Charles Smith Wines in 2006 and themed the brand, ‘The Modernist Project’ - focusing on the way people generally consume wine today: immediately. He intended to make balanced and approachable wines to be enjoyed now and has been awarded Winemaker of the Year by three different publications for his efforts.

TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | March 2018 | 11

TASTING NOTES

Alexandra C

BY CAMERON DOUGLAS MS

Wine Country

entral Otago is the most southerly wine region in New Zealand and the world. Of the six main sub-regions that outline the wine map of Central Otago, the Alexandra Basin, is the most southerly of them all.

There are several geographical features of the basin, starting with the Clutha and Manuherikia rivers, the Southern Alps and in particular, the Raggedy and Dunstan Ranges, then lower-lying ragged and rolling hills. The valley floor/basin starts quite narrow at the northern end then cascades into the lower South Island towards Roxborough.

Many of the vineyards are tucked away on the side or in the nape of rolling hills, or the valley floor, while some are exposed atop hills.

The climate is true continental with cold snowy winters and piping hot summers. Soils in the area that form the geology are made from a bedrock of schist, ancient river and lake sediments, quartz and gold.

Home to one of the first wine producers in New Zealand in the early 19th Century, it is possible that the some of the first Pinot Noir wines were produced in the Alexandra Basin.

Today, there are approximately 20 wine producers and 30 growers and all but a couple are boutique, with less than 1000 cases produced annually.

The main varieties cultivated are Pinot Noir, St Laurent, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Gewürztraminer.Vine age in some places is well over 20 years and the quality of wine overall is very good to excellent.

Wines in general do reflect the area, with some distinctive mineral layers, ripe fruit flavours, natural acidity and, when used, a judicious use of oak. It is not uncommon for some producers to be recognised at wine competitions nationally and internationally.

The annual vintage release event is an excellent way to see, smell and taste the best of what the Alexandra Basin has to offer. An opportunity that should not be missed. ■

Wines are scored out of 100 points and are listed in no particular order. Numbers are not indicative of a ranking.

Cameron Douglas is New Zealand’s first and only Master Sommelier.

He is a Senior Lecturer at AUT University in Auckland, local and international wine judge, wine commentator and wine educator as well as a speaker and presenter in New Zealand and internationally.

Cameron is also an examiner with the Court of Master Sommeliers Worldwide. He writes the wine lists for a variety of establishments including Merediths, Mekong Baby, Nanam Republic and MichelinStarred New York establishment The Musket Room.

12 | March 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ

TWO

ONE

BIO:

TASTING NOTES RISE ALEXANDRA 1 HAWKDUN PINOT NOIR 2014

BY TWO PADDOCKS 2 PICNIC ALEXANDRA RIESLING 2017

ROCK CENTRAL OTAGO 3 JUDGE PINOT NOIR 2014

Ripe and generous with complexity revealed immediately; lovely fruit concentration and balanced velvety tannins; loads of Pinosity and charm; youthful and still developing. A lovely example.

Points 95 RRP $45.00 Distributor: Hawkdun Rise Phone: (03) 448 7782 www.hawkdunrise.co.nz

The aromas, textures and flavours derived from a wild fermentation show well with wild flowers, wild fruits and white-fleshed pears; some honeysuckle, a touch of ‘funk’ and old wood or lees notes. Very nice wine. *This wine is certified organic Points 94 RRP $27.00 Distributor: Negociants Phone: (03) 449 2756 www.twopaddocks.com

Alluring and familiar aromas of ripe red berry fruits with dark cherry and ripe red apple skin; mineral and oak aromas weave through the core. Dry with flavours of oak, berries and spices. Very youthful with a quiver of tannins and acidity. Finding its way to balance, still great potential. Drink from late 2019 through 2027.

Points 93 RRP $45.00 Distributor: Judge Rock Phone: (03) 448 5059 or (027) 427 9108 www.judgerock.co.nz

RISE ALEXANDRA 4 HAWKDUN PINOT NOIR 2012

VINEYARD RURU ESTATE 5 IMMIGRANT’S 6 PERSEVERANCE CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT NOIR 2016 ALEXANDRA PINOT GRIS 2017

Developing nicely, with a sense of youth and showing off light-red fruits of raspberry, cherry and plum; lovely concentration on the palate, coarse silk tannins and plenty of acidity. Balanced and well-made.

Points 93 RRP $45.00 Distributor: Hawkdun Rise Phone: (03) 448 7782 www.hawkdunrise.co.nz

Very youthful, fruity and quite juicy on the palate, some lively firmer tannins need time to resolve, but this wine has great potential to age well.

Points 89 RRP $26.00 Distributor: Immigrant’s Vineyard Phone: (027) 240 3529 www.immigrantsvineyard.co.nz

Firm, fresh, youthful, fruity, crisp and dry with just a hint of residual sweetness. White fruit flavours, balanced and well-made.

Points 87 RRP $23.00 Distributor: Perseverance Estate Phone: (03) 449 2434 or (027) 431 8293 www.perseverance.co.nz

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TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | March 2018 | 13

WINE MAP

The wine regions of

New Zealand Lost on the difference between Marlborough and Martinborough? Here are locations of all the major wine regions in New Zealand.

2005 Vineyards

Twelve

NORTHLAND

KUMEU

MATAKANA WAIHEKE ISLAND

AUCKLAND

AUCKLAND

WAIKATO & BAY OF PLENTY

NORTH ISLAND GISBORNE

major wine regions

HAWKE'S BAY

Total producing area:

37,129 Ha

WELLINGTON

WAIRARAPA MARTINBOROUGH

NELSON MARLBOROUGH

SOUTH ISLAND

WAIPARA VALLEY

CHRISTCHURCH

WATAKI VALLEY

QUEENSTOWN

CENTRAL OTAGO ALEXANDRA

Statistics and regional data from www.nzwine.com

14 | March 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ

CANTERBURY

Top producing varieties:

76% Pinot Noir 72%

Sauvignon Blanc

Q&A Parrotdog’s Matt Kristofski, Matt Warner and Matt Stevens

Dogged Lager is Parrotdog’s newest brew

determination

Wellington brewery Parrotdog is set to conquer the rapidly growing craft beer industry in New Zealand. The Shout NZ chatted to two of the three Matts who run the place – Matt Kristofski and Matt Warner – to find out about two big launches happening this month.

Can you tell us a bit about your new beer that is launching this month?

Matt W: Lager is a simple pale lager brewed using a single New Zealand pilsner malt, a single classic New Zealand hop variety (Green Bullet) and a German-style lager yeast.

Why did you decide to brew this particular style?

Matt W: This beer came about because we selfishly wanted to have a beer like this available for our own drinking pleasure. There are only so many hoppy Pale Ales you can put up with, especially when you’ve been in the industry for a few years. A simple lager is the go-to beer for our team at the end of the day. It is also an ideal first beer to release in cans for us, as they really suit this style for ease of drinkability.

The craft beer market in NZ is growing by the day, how do you ensure you stand out?

Matt K: I believe we stand out by cutting through the ‘noise’ in terms of how we present our product to market. Parrotdog’s philosophy stems from a desire to create beers that we genuinely enjoy drinking ourselves, and for this reason, we have always been careful not to create gimmicks or dress any of our products up as something they’re not. The focus is on the product and we ensure this message is clear through the use of clean and minimalistic branding, which works to convey the attributes of each beer, rather than developing a busy label to encourage added attention.

own right - a bar that caters for all, without being limited in its offering due to its proximity to the production brewery.

It is important to us that we continue to expand on the aesthetic and design precedent we have set with [Parrotdog’s cellar door] Nice.

Takeaway. High quality and durability will act as a prerequisite in the design and construction of the bar, being sure to create a space that gives the impression of having always been there – something timeless, but something Parrotdog.

What is your drawcard to get the discerning Wellington craft beer drinkers through the door?

Matt K: Drinking fresh and local product continues to be a growing trend.

We plan to encourage this idea not only through ensuring that our core products in the bar are fresh off the packaging line, but by making the bar home to a revolving selection of LB Beers; our pilot series. LB Beers are brewed on our 600 litre pilot kit and only offered through Nice. Takeaway and the bar, once it opens. LB has created a platform for creativity with many of the beers produced being experimental one-off offerings. ■ Parrotdog’s cellar door, Nice.Takeaway

You have a new brew bar opening in Wellington this month, what can people expect from it?

Matt K: Inspired by the old hotels and pubs of yesteryear, we aim to create a bar that’s not only community oriented, but a destination that anyone and everyone would feel welcome in. We’re creating a space that complements the neighbouring brewery but is also a draw card in its

TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | March 2018 | 15

BEER FEATURE

The pursuit of

Hoppiness When it comes to beer ingredients, there is no question that hops are the star of the show, writes John Oszajca.

W To contact John Oszajca regarding beer features or samples, please email him at john@newzealandbrewer.co.nz

hile hops have been traditionally used to balance beer’s sweetness, aid in suppressing bacterial growth, and act as a natural preservative, in the modern craft beer world they have become the pièce de résistance of beer.

Ask any craft brewer what their best-selling beer is and they will almost universally tell you that it is their IPA (India Pale Ale), the hoppiest of beer styles. It has become such a universal truth that many breweries have taken to simply adding the IPA moniker to their beer names (regardless of style), purely to sell a few more bottles.That slightly hoppy Saison not selling well? Simply call it a Belgian IPA and it will suddenly fly off the shelves.

Much likes grapes are to wine, hop varieties are at the core of a beer’s terroir, its flavour profile, and often it’s commercial potential.

This modern pre-occupation with hops has given New Zealand a serendipitous edge on many of the world’s beer nations. The many unique varieties of hops grown in this country, and the limited quantities available to overseas brewers, has earned Kiwi hops a highly esteemed reputation across the globe.

One of the reasons that New Zealand hops are as coveted as they are, is simply because of the small volume of hops that are produced here, as compared to the other major hop producers in the world. Whereas Germany (the world’s largest hop producer), will typically produce more than 30,000 metric tonnes of these resinous little green flowers, New Zealand might only produce 800.

Moreover, New Zealand hops are known for their exotically fruity, sometimes savory, and generally distinctive character, as compared to other hop varieties from around the world. This profile aligns perfectly with the feverish interest in the newer, more modern styles of juicy, tropical-fruitforward IPAs that craft beer drinkers love so much.

New Zealand hops are known for their exotically fruity, sometimes savory, and generally distinctive character 16 | March 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ

IPA (India Pale Ale) is the hoppiest of beer styles

BEER FEATURE To get a better sense of just what makes New Zealand hops so special, I reached out to Doug Donelan, the CEO of NZ Hops; a Nelson-based contemporary hop grower co-operative.

What are some of the benefits and challenges of growing hops in New Zealand?

Hops are latitude sensitive, and most of the latitudinally appropriate areas of the Southern Hemisphere are covered by ocean, so there isn’t much land available. Hops aren’t native to the Southern Hemisphere either, so most that do grow here have been developed for our maritime conditions.

Nelson is the primary hop-growing region of New Zealand, and the reason Nelson works is because much of the rest of the suitable growing regions in this country are subject to extreme weather conditions. Hops don’t like extreme anything - they like things reasonably calm and stable.

How is New Zealand’s hop industry currently doing and what is demand like, both in New Zealand and abroad?

It’s in good shape at the moment but things can change fairly rapidly in the international market. All crops are impacted by supply and demand scenarios, so it never pays to get too far ahead of yourself. We’re only small players internationally, but we have some fairly unique hops here that we’ve developed. Being niche helps combat market forces.

How do New Zealand hops differ from hops grown in other parts of the world?

New Zealand hops are different. They have been bred by crossing older landrace varieties with newly developed hops that have been selected

“We’re only small players internationally, but we have some fairly unique hops here that we’ve developed” Doug Donelan, CEO, NZ Hops for flavour and aroma characteristics. Another big factor is that hops are a temperate crop. Nelson is sub-tropical, being above 40 degrees south, so we are right on the border; and we’re a coastal climate. Everything about it is different. We’re also not trying to rule the world, so it gives you more time to think about what’s actually best, rather than how to compete on a massive scale. All of those elements have combined to make our hops truly unique.

How are new hop varieties developed?

We start with a lot of good plants and narrow them down to the best.

You hope you don’t miss anything, but you need a bit of luck on your side as well.You can’t determine everything. It’s not an exact process.

Dr. Ron Beatson from Plant and Food Research (our research partners) is both extremely talented and passionate when it comes to hops. Hops are more than just a job.

What are the most popular varieties of New Zealand hops?

Nelson Sauvin is our number one variety. It’s a big, in-your-face hop with a lot of dimensions, depending on how and where you use it.

It’s got big Sauvignon Blanc, passionfruit, and fruit-punch flavours and aromas. There is nothing subtle about it, unless you want it to be. There’s a raft of others - Motueka, Riwaka, Rakau, Wai-iti, and Pacifica, just to name a few – and they’re each good in their own way.

There are a lot of great hops in the world, but it’s the brewers who decide which ones they like best and how to use them to create their ideal beer.

Are there any new varieties expected to hit the market that you are particularly excited about?

There’s always something in the wings. We’ve got a couple showing promise in brewing trials at the moment, but we can’t say anything more on that until after this harvest, when we get a chance to brew some more beer and check them out in the finished product.

Doug Donelan, CEO of NZ Hops

For a relatively small country, New Zealand has had an impressive impact on the craft beer world. Only a few years ago New Zealand boasted just a few dozen breweries, now that number is approaching 200. Our IPAs are coveted around the world, and New Zealand Pilsner has made a mark as a uniquely Kiwi beer style. Much of that success and acclaim is owed to the persistent efforts of New Zealand’s hop growers and breeders who have managed to turn the challenges of our environment into an advantage, and create a number of hop varieties that truly stand alone on the brewing landscape. ■ TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | March 2018 | 17