Hospitality August 2021

NO.775 AUGUST 2021

SET MENUS • CHILLI OIL • FRENCH 75 • THE WAGYU OF PORK

CONTENTS // August

Contents AUGUST 2021

12

Regulars 6 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more.

8 // PRODUCE Garlic chives.

10 // BEST PRACTICE Expand your business arms.

12 // COLUMN Ben Armstrong on Atiyah — his ultra-ecofriendly Melbourne concept.

14 // DRINKS Why the French 75 needs to make a comeback.

2 | Hospitality

20

20 // PROFILE Roy Ner is finally opening the restaurant of his dreams.

54 // BEHIND THE SCENES Alpha’s tomato and rosemary martini.

56 // EQUIPMENT A portable wood-fired oven with a wait list.

58 // 5 MINUTES WITH …

Steven Jacomos from Wakefield’s.

40

Features 26 // CHILLI CONDIMENTS The essentials are widely called on in multiple cuisines.

32 // BERKSHIRE All about the ‘Wagyu of pork’.

40 // SET MENUS Fixed menus are a mainstay for a reason.

46 // EQUIPMENT Chefs weigh in on new investment pieces and old favourites.

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THE ITALIAN TASTE, ENJOYED ALL OVER THE WORLD

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Today, Latteria Soresina is the largest producer of Grana Padano PDO, one of the original ‘Parmesan’ cheeses from Italy made with 100% Italian milk and no additives or preservatives.

Just traditional and authentic cheese making traditions and time to mature its distinctive sharp flavour.

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Perfect for grating over pasta, shaving over salads or as an aperitivo.

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Exclusively distributed by Conga Foods since 1978. For your nearest stockist: congafoods.com.au

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

TOTTI’S AT HOME The Bondi eatery is churning out their iconic puffy bread to eat at home until your next visit. @hospitalitymagazine

Creature comforts THIS WINTER, I know I’ve been looking for

certainly up there. We’re incredibly lucky to

plenty of comfort when it comes to food.

have the breed in Australia which is being

Whether it’s a classic cocktail or a hot noodle

championed by farmers and chefs who can’t

soup with a kick, I’m happy — as long as it’s

get enough of the ‘Wagyu of pork’.

punchy and piping. Hospitality’s August issue is full of the same tastiness.

DOUGH-LIGHTFUL A vanilla bean-flecked custard makes bombolone hard to resist. @annabellecloros

There’s also a profile on Roy Ner, who has recently moved to London to open his dream

We look at garlic chives in the produce

restaurant; a comprehensive look at chilli oil,

section — a foundational ingredient with a

essential kitchen equipment and the upside

starring role in some of my favourite things

of hosting limited menus to bring in new and

to eat (hello, chive pancakes and jiaozi) and

old diners.

cover the French 75 with two bartenders, who think it’s well overdue for a comeback.

Many restaurants are offering highend items on their menus, and Berkshire is

I hope you enjoy this issue.

Annabelle Cloros

OUT OF THIS WORLD A dream collab between Koko Black and Black Star Pastry celebrated World Chocolate Day. @hospitalitymagazine

Follow us

Editor

@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au

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4 | Hospitality

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NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

Poor Toms can do it all Sydney distillery Poor Toms has launched a new range of canned craft cocktails. The first off the line are the gin and tonic and a Negroni

The latest openings, books, events and more.

spritz, with plans to roll out a strawberry Tom Collins and piña colada highball. “We have put as much care into the mixers as we do with our

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

spirits, with all natural flavours and as little sugar as possible,” says Sean McGuire, head of drinks. Available at the Marrickville distillery, select BWS and Dan Murphy’s stores and independent liquor retailers. poortoms.com

Merivale opens Chez Dominique at The Whale Inn Elsa Marie and Julian May are heading to Narooma in New South Wales where they will bring their private dining concept to a restaurant setting. The pair has spent time working in kitchens in Sydney and Paris and will lean into Eurobodalla produce at Chez Dominique. “We have a strong passion for local, high-quality, sustainable produce and wine and can’t wait to share our cooking with the local community,” says the duo. The pop-up restaurant will serve fuss-free cuisine including daily house-made sourdough and proteins from Tathra Place, Martin’s Ridge Farm and Tilba. merivale.com

Triple threat Republic of Fremantle’s flagship vodka and gin line is now available across Australia. The Fremantle distillery uses a ‘grape to glass’ ethos that sees the base of the spirits made from locally sourced wine. Verdelho is double distilled in a copper still before it’s used in the vodka and Full Bodied gin. “When you’re tasting the vodka, there’s hints of citrus and delicate florals,” says Distiller Oliver Kitson. “The Aromatic gin [has] lively lemon and grapefruit flavours in the aroma, with hints of fresh apricot and honeyed ginger. For the Full Bodied, we layer it with rosemary, red fruits and pink pepper.” Available online and at select bottle shops and venues. republicoffremantle.com

6 | Hospitality

Birch & Waite has released a new line of condiments geared towards the takeaway market. The range covers gourmet tomato, tartare, smokey bbq, creamy aioli and sweet chilli sauces which are available in 25g single-serve portions. The sauces are shelf-stable, glutenfree, vegetarian or vegan and have been made using Australian ingredients. The range has been created by leading chefs and is produced on-site in Sydney’s Inner West. birchandwaite.com.au

QT debuts bespoke Riesling QT Hotels has teamed up with Seppeltsfield Wines to produce a tailored Riesling only available at QT restaurants and bars.

The Quelltaler Vineyard Riesling has been created to work with dishes at QT restaurants including the yellowfin tuna crudo at Gowings Bar & Grill in Sydney or the pan-seared Kalbarri snapper at Santini Bar & Grill in Perth. “With access to the country’s best Riesling vineyards, rich heritage and desire to innovate, we couldn’t have dreamed of a better partner than the iconic Seppeltsfield Wines to make QT Riesling a reality,” says Chris Morrison, QT group wine director. qthotels.com

Society has arrived Society has finally opened its doors after three years of setbacks. The Melbourne restaurant sees the culinary comeback of Martin Benn and Vicki Wild in collaboration with restaurateur Chris Lucas. The venue is split into a lounge, dining room, terrace and private dining spaces, with Benn curating menus throughout. Our pick is the caviar martini at the lounge, which is served with a caviar pretzel with smoked cream cheese. societyrestaurant.com Photography by Kristoffer Paulsen

400 Gradi opens in Mornington Gradi Group has opened its sixth new venue, and this time it’s on Mornington’s Main Street. 400 Gradi is a mega venue of sorts, with room for 400 diners, a gelateria and dessert bar and an Italian delicatessen and market. “It’s the first time we’ll have all three Gradi offerings in a single location working together,” says Founder Johnny Di Francesco. “It’s like Neapolitan ice cream, in that it creates a little something for everyone and every occasion.” 400gradi.com.au

August 2021 | 7

NEWS // Entrée

Condiments on the go

PRODUCE // Garlic chives

Quick to reseed if flowers aren’t

Naturally repels aphids

picked off

Rich in vitamin A

Can be grown in temperate climates year-round Related to onions

Lift and divide every three to four years for longevity Chives grow from a bulb roughly 10mm in size

Foundational ingredient in Asian cookery

Grown in China for thousands of years

8 | Hospitality

PRODUCE // Garlic chives

Garlic chives

More garlicy than oniony, garlic chives are a subtle but foundational ingredient.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros Origins

To harvest, cut with scissors a few centimetres

Garlic chives are known by the scientific name

from the soil level to ensure plants have the best

Allium tuberosum and are also referred to as Asian

chance of reshooting. In cooler climes, the stalks will

chives, Chinese chives, Chinese leek or Oriental

die down before re-sprouting from roots in spring.

garlic. The origins of garlic chives date back 5,000 years ago to China, where they are native to the

Appearance and flavour profile

province of Shanxi. They have also been grown in

Garlic chives have flat, grass-like leaves with

Japan for centuries and are naturalised across Asia

triangular bases that can grow up to 45cm in

and many other parts of the world.

height. The leaves are not hollow, as they are for

Garlic chives are a clump-forming perennial

onion chives. The plant’s compact florets are white

plant that grows from a tough, fibrous, inedible

and star-shaped and grow at the top of the leaves

bulb. The leaves are the most-used part of the

in loose bunches. The green leaves can grow up to

plant alongside the flowers. Garlic chives grow wild

45cm in height.

and are considered invasive in some countries.

The flavour profile of garlic chives is considerably milder than onion and is more akin to garlic without

Growth and harvest

the harshness. The chives can evoke a tingly

Garlic chives can be grown from seed and can

sensation on the palate.

be sown any time of the year in subtropical areas.

Seeds should be planted approximately 1cm deep

Culinary uses

and 15cm apart from the next to ensure clumps

Most parts of the plant can be eaten except for the

can form. Garlic chives require rich, well-drained

bulb. Unopened flower buds can be picked off and

soil and full sun with low levels of shade. They are

added to dishes and the leaves are widely used

considered drought tolerant, but should be given

across Asian cookery. Popular applications include

fertiliser for maximum yield. Germination can take

jiaozi, chive and kimchi pancakes, stir fries, gyoza and

up to 20 days, with plants producing a decent

miso soup. They’re also served with gukbap; a Korean

number of leaves in 14 weeks. Flower heads should

hot soup with rice. In north-eastern India, garlic chives

be removed before they are completely formed to

are often substituted for garlic or onion. The chives

ensure plant longevity.

can be consumed fresh, cooked or pickled.■ August 2021 | 9

BEST PRACTICE // Futureproofing

Futureproof your business State lockdowns with little warning are part of doing business in 2021. Here are some tips to adapt when snap closures occur.

WORDS Ken Burgin

or service style. In addition, your event

term need a three-pronged strategy: first,

Communicate with customers and suppliers

permanently diversify what you sell so

Rapid and positive communication connects

and deposit transfers.

you’re not solely dependent on sit-down

you with customers, staff and suppliers.

customers. Second, develop a robust

Hopefully, you’ve been building your email

communication system by having email,

and SMS lists — it’s surprising how many

Watch your costs and streamline admin

SMS, social media, window signs and

contacts can be found in order apps and

Simplify the menu and reduce stock — most

phone messages ready to go. Third, keep

email communication. Invest money to boost

operators are now much savvier with their

your numbers and bookkeeping up to date.

your social media posts in the local area,

ordering and cost of goods. Use your

Watch costs like a hawk and be prepared

so you make a more significant impact. Bulk

customer ordering app to slim down the menu

to apply for government grants and

texting services are very cheap. Commit to

and alert suppliers about reduced quantities

financial support.

an email newsletter at least once a fortnight

and hours of operation.

BUSINESSES THAT WILL survive long-

with friendly news and chat, not just sales.

contracts should now allow for rescheduling

Alert finance companies about what’s

Diversify your product range

happening; you may not be delaying

This means adding multiple income streams.

payments, but keeping them in the loop

Apart from takeaway meals and coffee, it could be meal kits, coffee beans, branded clothing, pickles and jams, groceries, cocktail mixers, wine, frozen meals and baked goods. Improve your packaging and packing processes to protect products

Businesses that will survive longterm need a threepronged strategy.

during delivery — leaky boxes and endless

Talk to the landlord — they went through this in 2020, and although they don’t love the idea of rent reductions, regular communication can prepare them for possible concessions.

Prepare reopening promotions —

plastic don’t cut it anymore. You’ll also need to manage delivery — a combination of staff

increases trust if you need to negotiate.

sometimes called disaster recovery Alert staff about roster and work changes

marketing, and there are many options

backed up with third-party services such

through group email, bulk texting, your

with the communication channels you’ve

as Uber Eats — and provide easy access for

private Facebook or WhatsApp group and

developed. Move quickly and sound positive.

customers who are picking up.

the roster’s messaging service. Stand down

Strengthen your administration system;

anyone not needed, and check Fair Work for

many operators have a new appreciation for

your obligations in this situation.

working from home. Is your PC up to date

Consider running a weekly wine or spirit tasting, video cooking classes and coffee sessions on digital platforms. It’s about building

Encourage COVID-19 vaccinations. Show

with a good backup for data? Is it time for a

community and connections in new ways and

staff how to book their jab and arrange for

larger screen or a better office layout? Do

readying customers for a return to visiting

time off.

you have POS integrated with bookkeeping,

your premises. Amplify sales gift vouchers and hampers — people still want to celebrate.

10 | Hospitality

Contact function and event bookings if there are restrictions on group size

rosters and payroll? You can even take delivery orders from your system at home. ■

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COLUMN // Ben Armstrong

Catering to a different need Atiyah is reducing its environmental footprint without compromise.

WORDS Ben Armstrong

THE PAST 18 months has seen the world focus squarely on the pandemic, but we cannot forget the ongoing and critical status of the global environmental and climate change crisis. Climate

change and biodiversity loss are two major environmental issues that continue to have a broad impact on the hospitality industry.

Excessive use of finite energy resources is rampant in the

sector. Venues create a substantial environmental footprint, from the emissions released during livestock production to the water used in the food supply chain and food waste generated along

the way. Food waste alone accounts for 8 per cent of the world’s

greenhouse gas emissions, while livestock agriculture produces 11 per cent of Australia’s greenhouse gas emissions.

The good news is that it doesn’t have to be this way. There’s no

need to connect with the grid or put additional pressure on existing infrastructure. And there is absolutely no need for food wastage.

At Atiyah, our kitchen is 100 per cent renewable run and almost

entirely self-sufficient thanks to rainwater collection, solar panels

and a B100 (carbon-neutral) biodiesel generator. We have reduced carbon emissions by 73 per cent by applying sustainable strategies and have offset the remaining 27 per cent.

When we set out to launch Australia’s first Climate Active certified

carbon-neutral kitchen, our dream was to revolutionise sustainable hospitality while also serving deliciously authentic Lebanese street food. But how can a business be carbon neutral and what steps need to be taken?

Solar and working with renewable energy is something we

anticipate more people adopting within the hospitality industry.

12 | Hospitality

replacing gas with electricity.

To achieve this, we created an eco smart off-grid

kitchen that draws all its power requirements from a standalone solar and energy storage solution. This is

provided by an incorporated rooftop solar system along with a battery for additional storage to assist with daily energy requirements. Renewable energy often needs

additional support via a biodiesel generator using a 100 per cent biodiesel fuel source.

Technology is also a key player in this space with

integrated smart technology and cloud-based monitoring, which can help businesses achieve full energy

independence without the need for further support from

Our dream was to revolutionise sustainable hospitality while also serving deliciously authentic Lebanese street food.

grid electricity or reserve supply services.

We utilise 100 per cent of rainwater captured from the

roof via an internal downpipe. It is filtered and treated using advanced UV light and is then pumped to the

food preparation area through the eWater system or the

electric HWU. Wastewater is pumped to a 400-litre grease interceptor trap to separate solids and grease from grey water, which collects in a 300-litre holding tank.

This method and approach may be challenging

depending on the location and facilities of a kitchen,

however, it is definitely one to consider if you do have the advantage of implementing an internal down pipe.

Today, it is easy to reduce tree-based paper and fossil fuel-based plastic by working with environmentally

conscious companies that create single-use packaging

made from plants. There are also composting services

available that collect food waste and turn it into nutrient compost and soil — a much better solution than sending it to landfill.

Wherever possible, work with climate-active, ethical

and sustainable suppliers and engage in conversations with them around setting up a circular economy to

reduce waste. Sourcing local suppliers is key and plays a huge role in reducing emissions. Look for businesses

that are certified carbon neutral and whose sustainability values align with your own.

The future of our planet and the future of our children lays firmly in our hands, and the next generation

are looking for brands to lead the way. Those in the

under-30 age bracket, in particular, will actively seek out brands taking responsibility for creating environmental change. They want to support and reward businesses

that share their values and are as dedicated to climate change and creating a sustainable future as they are.

In order to make real headway into achieving global

sustainability, all of us need to come together, inspire

each other and play our part. Remember, the best way to lead change is to be change. ■

August 2021 | 13

COLUMN // Ben Armstrong

And the benefits to the environment are significant when

DRINKS // French 75

14 | Hospitality

DRINKS // French 75

French connection The classic cocktail goes off with a pop.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

THE FRENCH 75 has been around for more

present on Romeo Lane’s cocktail list, with a gin

revolves around the use of gin or Cognac, its

to say Jones isn’t partial to the Cognac version,

than a century. While much of the current debate inception story is just as testy. The same can be said of its composition, which has been made with everything from grenadine to applejack,

Calvados and absinthe. But one thing is certain

— the Champagne cocktail is a stalwart among purist drinkers and bartenders alike.

Hospitality speaks to Jemima McDonald from

Earl’s Juke Joint and Romeo Lane’s Joe Jones about their thoughts on the French 75’s cult

status, switching out elements, ice, glassware

and everything you need to know about nailing

passionfruit number currently on offer. That’s not also known as a French 125. “People certainly

have their preference,” he says. “I think they’re

both virtuous. A gin base is an extremely luxurious version of a Tom Collins topped with Champagne

instead of soda. The gin version is a brisk, reviving option that’s almost like a turbo drink. But if you

like a more European touch, what Champagne acid does to Cognac is quite fantastic — grape on grape is really cool. It adds an intense complexity that is equally as enjoyable.”

the classic.

For Earl’s Juke Joint Bartender Jemima

The French 75 has two main origin stories, both

context. “It has so many classic ingredients

occurring between 1914 and 1915. One credits French Bartender Henry Tepe of Henry’s Bar in Paris with its creation, who named the drink

‘soixante-quinze’ after the cartridge shell of the

75-millimetre field gun used by the French army.

The gun and the drink were both said to “knock you flat”.

Another origin story pinpoints the 75 to

the World War I front where officers drank a

McDonald, the French 75 is a product of

that are iconic of the time,” she says. “If it’s

made well, it’s super bright, super tart, a little bit sour and a tiny bit sweet. There’s a reason it has stayed somewhat popular within the

hospitality and bartending world. It’s stood the test of time — it’s not going to leave the hive

mind of hospitality people and it’s going to be on menus forever.”

While McDonald isn’t one for cocktails topped

combination of gin, grenadine, applejack and

with sparkling, she leans towards Cognac in

Honey is

A twist of

a good

lemon is the

The tale was taken from the frontline to the

house always goes with Cognac because we’re

swap for

most popular

sugar

garnish

Passionfruit

Shake with

lemon juice from empty cartridge shells.

United States by war correspondent E. Alexander Powell.

The French 75 went on to appear in London

in 1916 and was first published in a cocktail

book in 1922. The rest, as they say, is a free for all. “The fantastic thing about booze history

is everyone was drinking and wanted to take credit, so when it comes to cocktail history,

everything is highly disputable because they

were all drunken liars,” says Joe Jones, co-owner of Melbourne’s Romeo Lane.

Tall tales aside, a skew on a French 75 is ever-

a French 75 for its complexity. “At Earl’s, our

a New Orleans-inspired bar, so Cognac is very important to us,” she says. “Cognac has that

dark, fruitiness, whereas gin is really a vector

for whatever it’s paired with. I feel like there’s so many cocktails that have the same ratio of gin/

lemon/sugar and you can get that flavour within so many different cocktails, but you’re not going to find that with Cognac. It’s not as well known and people don’t order it as much. It’s more

French, obviously; it speaks to the name a little bit better.”

replaces

ice to

lemon on

rapidly

Romeo Lane’s

chill the

current menu

cocktail

August 2021 | 15

DRINKS // French 75

the ice has dissolved, you just put it into

a flute and top it gently with Champagne or sparkling wine. If you just made the

mixture, chilled it in a glass and topped it with Champagne, it would still be

delicious, but not texturally on point.”

As far as the gin goes, it’s always London

dry. “We use Beefeater as our house gin

because it’s reliable and citrus-forward,”

says Jones. “Tanqueray is also perfect and

Goldie’s is great, too. The flavour holds up and is preserved through the agitation.”

Australian spirits “don’t appeal” to

Jones’ tastes, so don’t expect to find

local options stocked at Romeo Lane. “I

wouldn’t use a weird gin like I wouldn’t use a weird honey because then it gets

further away from the original taste of the

“Cognac has that dark, fruitiness whereas gin is really a vector for whatever it’s paired with.” – Jemima McDonald

Gin, lemon juice, sugar and fizz are

the key elements of the French 75 the

drinking public have widely enjoyed since the late 1920s. The core components

drinks with things that didn’t exist at

the time. Not everything has to taste like macadamia and eucalyptus.”

The sparkling element is also

create the cocktail we all know, but it’s

interchangeable — depending on how

use it as a blueprint for a lot of drinks

75 with cheap sparkling wine, it’s still

still recognisable with substitutes. “We in our bar; when you break down the foundations, they can all be different

things,” says Jones. “The sugar can be

honey, which gives it a chewier, richer

viscosity; it’s more foamy and dense. You can also replace the sugar with Campari, which is sweet enough on its own. Half a strawberry in the tin makes it fruity

fancy you’re feeling. “If you make a French going to taste pretty good,” says Jones.

“Cava is high acid, which makes the

drink refreshing, and Perrier-Jouët is a

premium option where you get that toasty, breadiness and yoghurtiness from the

Champagne acid. It’s going to taste bubbly and alive.”

or pineapple juice can take it to a tiki

Classic cocktails at Earl’s are available to

celery bitters and a pinch of salt, which

always selecting gin as the base. The bar’s

place. We did a summer version with

took it to a savoury place. It has lots of

legs in terms of impressing people, which makes it a classic. Even in its pure form, it’s upfront in its intention — it’s not

complicated or weird — it’s just great.”

Romeo Lane’s current French 75

iteration has given lemon the backseat and instead brought in passionfruit, which is made into a consommé. Sugar has been given the boot and Capilano honey (it

doesn’t mess with the flavour profile) is

order, with fans of the French 75 almost house gin is Tanqueray “which works perfectly because it’s citrus-forward”,

says McDonald or they use Plymouth.

The bar’s Inner West location also means patrons are passionate about supporting

local distilleries. “People are big on Aussie gins, so I would suggest Poor Toms’ Dry or Archie Rose,” says McDonald. “For

Cognac, we use Martell VS or VSOP, but sometimes people want Calvados.”

When making the Cognac variation,

mixed with water to loosen things up.

McDonald combines 40ml Cognac, 20ml

consommé, honey syrup, gin and shake it

in a shaker. “I shake it for a good seven

“In a tin, you assemble the passionfruit

hard with a handful of pellet ice until it’s

dissolved,” says Jones. “The drink doesn’t need controlled dilution; you just want to get the mix cold and fluffy. Because 16 | Hospitality

drink,” he says. “It’s hard to make classic

lemon, 15ml sugar and Hoshizaki ice

seconds and double strain into a chilled stemmed glass before topping with

Prosecco and garnishing with a lemon

twist,” she says. “You’re looking for a little

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DRINKS // French 75 bit of dilution, but it’s about the chill factor. You

want it to be super cold and effervescent, which is why we use Hoshizaki instead of crumb ice.”

Topping with Champagne is tradition, but it’s

not an option for all drinkers. McDonald uses

a local Prosecco without additives to “give that

dry, fizzy element”, she says. “The Prosecco is on the natural side, so it doesn’t have any additives and it doesn’t impart too much sweetness.”

The French 75 isn’t a particularly popular

order at Earl’s, “and if it [is], it’s by hospo or

gin enthusiasts”, says McDonald. Nevertheless,

the bartender still has a raft of variations up her sleeve. She lists half lemon/half grapefruit as a

A stemmed wine glass

also comes in handy

with keeping the cocktail

cool. “We don’t use flutes

anymore as our glassware has evolved, so we use a

wine glass,” says McDonald. “You don’t want to

warm it up by holding the glass with your hand.”

Romeo Lane also opts for a stemmed glass:

“It’s a Champagne cocktail, so it should go in

a flute.”

A Collins glass can also be used to serve a

to put way too much sparkling in a Collins,” says

“Unless you’re measuring it out, it would be easy McDonald. “And people are likely to be weird and put straws in it.”

Jones is in the same boat when it comes to the

Classic cocktails typically comprise just a handful

Collins. “Our Collins glasses are 265ml whereas

But the simplest things are often the hardest to

drink balanced, you need to use a vessel that’s

of ingredients and emit the illusion of simplicity.

get right. To execute a French 75 at its maximum potential, it’s about being organised. “Have everything on hand and be prepared,” says

Jones. “Juice the lemons as you go so it’s fresh.

a flute is 180ml,” he says. “In order to keep the

going to maintain it. You can make them as best as you can, but if you over or under fill them, they’re not going to fit right.”

The acid goes a long way to cutting through

The French 75 might not be contemporary, and

is also a must. “If you shake something and it sits

its counterparts, but it’s more than capable of

things like sugar and Champagne.” Moving fast

in the tin, it will go flat quickly,” says Jones. “You don’t want to top a beverage with Champagne and have it still be flat.”

Speed is also front of mind for McDonald

along with holding back on the spirits. “It’s not

there’s no doubt it has been drowned out by

making a comeback. “I reckon people should

give it more of a chance,” says McDonald. “It’s so bipartisan and it’s a ‘for everyone’ cocktail.

Everyone can appreciate something about it.”

Whether it’s the tang, the fizz or the

meant to be a super boozy cocktail, so I wouldn’t

smashability, the French 75 is a foundational

be nice and fresh so get it to the customer as fast

it for years in varying formats,” says Jones. “It’s

go heavy on the spirits,” she says. “It’s meant to as you can.”

18 | Hospitality

wouldn’t use a weird it gets further away

Champagne saucer which is similar in size to

bitters. “Swapping the sparkling with pet nat is and it makes it look funky as well.”

weird gin like I honey because then

French 75, but it’s not particularly practical.

something we would do; they’re usually quite dry

“I wouldn’t use a

a flute,” says Jones. “We occasionally use a

potential option alongside replacing gin/Cognac

with Calvados or lightly aged rum with Angostura

C

classic in the cocktail scene. “We’ve played with such a fantastic bone structure for a drink.” ■

from the original taste of the drink.”

– Joe Jones

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www.peerlessfoodservice.com.au www.facebook.com/PeerlessFoodservice

PROFILE // Roy Ner

20 | Hospitality

PROFILE // Roy Ner

Roy Ner After 15 years in Sydney, the chef is creating the restaurant of his dreams in London.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

YOU MAY RECOGNISE Roy Ner from

his time at Nour in Sydney’s Surry Hills.

The chef was one of the pioneers of the

to Danny Russo [Russolini group] and said, ‘Why don’t you team up?’”

Ner opened more than 20 venues over

up with trends intrigued me, so I thought, ‘Why not?’”

It wasn’t long before diners and critics

restaurant, which pulled links from Middle

three years with the group, describing the

started paying attention to the Crown Street

together in one place.

a young chef, it opened my eyes on how

restaurant was Lebanese due to Moubadder’s

Eastern cuisines and connected them

But did you know he’s recently touched

down in London to launch the restaurant of his dreams? Hospitality talks to Ner

about jumping from the role of a chef to a consultant and back again, ushering in a

new type of restaurant showcasing Middle Eastern cookery and why Jeru is the

culmination of many years in the kitchen and behind the scenes.

Roy Ner left Israel and arrived in Sydney in 2006. The budding chef had plans to

attend culinary school in the United States, however Le Cordon Bleu snapped him up instead. He soon caught the attention of teachers, who put him forward for work

experience as a massive learning curve. “As to run a business,” he says. “We opened

restaurants, pubs and hotels and it was a good time for me.”

“I look at myself as an ambassador of the cuisine and of the new generation.

We’re trying to hold the line with what we do and make the cuisine proud.”

– Roy Ner Ibby Moubadder soon came calling,

experience at Matt Moran’s Aria.

putting an end to Ner’s short but sweet stint

chef in just a few months; he remained at

launch a Lebanese restaurant in 2016, but

Ner climbed the ranks and became sous

Aria for six years before he left to work in a smaller venue in Darlinghurst. But he

wasn’t there for long. “Some friends of mine asked me to help them with some menus, and before I knew it, I was running five

restaurants,” says Ner. “They introduced me

as a consultant. The restaurateur wanted to Ner wasn’t sold. “I said, ‘Nobody is doing it’, back then it was only Gerard’s Bistro

and Maha and that was it,” says the chef.

restaurant. Ner jokes people assumed the

background and some recognisable elements in the food, however, it was about much

more than a singular cuisine. “The first menu at Nour wasn’t Lebanese, but diners felt so

connected to it they called it Lebanese,” says the chef. “We didn’t set out to talk about it, but people really enjoyed the message. It happened organically.”

Ner left Nour to spend some time

travelling, where he racked up some

impressive culinary collaborations with global heavy hitters. “The Americans

started pulling me and I was invited to cook with Chad Robertson at Tartine

Bakery in San Francisco,” he says. “We took over the bakery and did an event

for 400 people which sold out. It was the first time I went to America and people

were amazed by the food; they didn’t have anything like it there at the time.”

The chef also teamed up with French

“I grew up on my mum’s food; Israeli and

Laundry alum Tim Hollingsworth who runs

maintaining the soul of a dish while keeping

in and out of America trying to get a feel

Middle Eastern cuisines. But the process of

Otium in Los Angeles. “From 2018, I was

August 2021 | 21

PROFILE // Roy Ner

“My success will be guests closing their eyes, eating the food and getting a feel for home.” – Roy Ner if I should do something in Los

and fun with good food.”

style food court with Tartine and

under construction, and will

Then, it was time to get serious. It

hole-in-the-wall bakery (dotted

Angeles or New York. I did a chefTim and it was a great experience. was time for me to start again and Jeru render

commit to something.”

Ner was on the hunt for a partner

and had many, many meetings

until he decided Seagrass Boutique

encompass a dining room, a

with the expertise of Tartine and

Sonoma), a wine room, a 48-seat charcoal kitchen, an upstairs

lounge and a downstairs bar.

Hospitality Group Founder Bradley

Ner says the menu will be “simple”,

came in and he amazed me,” says

dish says otherwise; it’s pure

Michael was the right fit. “Bradley

Ner. “His leadership skills are great and we said, ‘Let’s do something

first class — let’s rock the boat’. And that’s how Jeru came to life.”

Jeru is already Ner’s pride and joy and will open in November 2021.

The restaurant is in Mayfair, which is notoriously difficult to secure

a location in. So why London out of all places? “It’s so close to the Middle East and there has been

a lot of movement in the Middle

but a description of a lamb steak technique and experience. “We

take lamb neck, put it in smoked

honey, butter and lamb fat and let

it age for two weeks in the fridge,” describes the chef. “We cover it

in salt, slow roast it at 50 degrees

Celsius and then we marinate it in

shio koji with Middle Eastern spices and freekeh made in-house. You

add pomegranate and spices and

serve with a white bean and sweet bread ragu.”

Jeru will have “a crazy bread

Eastern market,” says Ner. “We

offering” after Ner used the

building what we wanted to do

everything from grains to

showed the guy who has the

and cooked for him and he said,

‘You need to do it here. Take this

building’. People want more Middle Eastern restaurants that are vibey 22 | Hospitality

The restaurant is currently

2020 lockdown to learn about fermentation. “I had a lot of time to slow down and understand it more,” he says. “In my cuisine,

bread is 30 per cent of your meal

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PROFILE // Roy Ner — we eat with it and you wipe the sauces. I’m

of hiring talent to join the restaurant. Key

stories to tell through the bread.”

other locations in time for the opening. “We’re

going to do a Yemenite bread. There are so many The venue will also boast an extensive

charcuterie program which will see basturma

made in the style of bresaola. “We worked on

a recipe with an Italian master and we’re using Middle Eastern spices and ageing the pastrami

figures will be brought in from New York and

interviewing top bartenders and front of house and we’re getting some of the best people in

London to work with us,” says Ner. “We’re trying to put a dream team together.”

in fenugreek in a similar way to the Italians,”

The wheels of Jeru are in motion and Ner is part

appearance alongside kingfish salami.

has over 3,000 years of history. “Middle Eastern

says Ner. Beetroot salami will also make an

Meze, entrees and larger plates will follow,

with a Levantine XO sure to intrigue diners. “We will dry prawns, scallops and slow cook them

with Middle Eastern spices,” says Ner. “It will be

finished with coriander and served with hummus and local langoustine.”

Another dish Ner hopes to include on the

menu is siniyet samak bil tahineh. “It’s a

Lebanese dish where they cook the fish in

sour tahini,” says the chef. “I want to do a

white smoked haddock bisque with tahini and

make it into a sauce and work it into a halibut charcoal dish.”

Ner is currently cooking in a development

kitchen in a London hotel and is in the midst 24 | Hospitality

Jeru will

Australian

make tahini

ceramicist

in-house

Robert

with a

Gordon is

bespoke

supplying

machine

the plates

Aussie beef

Tartine Bakery

of a group of chefs championing a cuisine which cookery is where Italian cuisine was 30 years

ago,” he says. “I look at myself as an ambassador of the cuisine and of the new generation. We’re trying to hold the line with what we do and make the cuisine proud.”

While Ner has opened countless restaurants,

there’s something very different about Jeru —

it’s personal. “The other restaurants have been

a warm up to this moment where it’s like, ‘Let’s sign my first masterpiece’, and do it in a way

people can understand,” he says. “My success

will be guests closing their eyes, eating the food and getting a feel for home no matter their

background. It will be my biggest success if I manage to do that.” ■

will be

and Sonoma

used

are consulting

at the

on the bread

restaurant

program

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FEATURE // Chilli condiments

Heat wave

Chilli oil and condiments have surged in popularity, with restaurants loading menus and retail offerings with different varieties.

WORDS Madeline Woolway PHOTOGRAPHY Grace Elisabeth Images for Melrose

CULTIVATED IN CENTRAL and South America for thousands

of years, chilli peppers have become an essential part of many

cuisines. Traded across the world, they’ve embedded themselves in kitchens where they are processed and incorporated into meals in

a multitude of ways. Perhaps most ubiquitous are condiments such as chilli oil.

Hospitality speaks to a restaurateur and two chefs about their

own take on chilli condiments, both in-house and at home.

Gyoza house Chotto Motto has been retailing crispy chilli oil long before 2020 pushed restaurant condiments into homes. It’s been

one of the Melbourne outfit’s specialties from the beginning, and according to co-owner Dylan Jones, retailing it was always the

plan. “We started producing it in jar form about half a year before

the first lockdown,” he says. “It was always a side project we’d just sell in the store.”

When restaurants were forced to temporarily shutter for dine-in

trade, Jones and his business partner Tomoya Kawasaki decided to focus on moving the product into grocery stores. “It really helped us during the lockdown,” says Jones.

More than a year later, the team is still going through growing

pains. It’s not just whipping up the oil that’s behind the teething issues — it’s packaging enough of it. Currently, the Chotto Motto team uses the same process to make the chilli oil for in-house use as they do

for packaging — it’s a hands-on operation. “We’re still producing on the side,” explains Jones. “We still make it all by hand. We’re in the

process of moving to a commercial kitchen off-site so we can increase

production. We’re interested in expanding into machinery so it’s easier to produce because it is quite time consuming at the moment.”

In the Brisbane suburb of Bulimba, Chef Arte Assavakavinvong

also makes all the condiments (as well as curry pastes) for Melrose by hand. The recently opened restaurant offers a mix of Thai and

Indonesian dishes, so there are several variations of nam prik and

sambal on offer. Like Jones and Kawasaki, Assavakavinvong has plans Melrose condiments

26 | Hospitality

to retail nam prik and sambal alongside curry pastes, but his dreams

FEATURE // Chilli condiments

“We make about 10 litres of something like the chilli jam at a time and it lasts a few weeks. We make the base and then season every time before we use it.” – Arte Melrose dishes

Assavakavinvong

are a while from fruition. “I want to sell house-

made condiments,” he says. “I’ll wait a few months because we just opened, but in the future, we will definitely have something in a jar.”

The challenge for the Melrose team will come

from creating a shelf-stable product that’s still true to the restaurant’s ethos. “We don’t know how

the customer will store it and how they will use

it,” says Assavakavinvong. “How are we going to educate the customers to cook and get the same product as they [get] in the restaurant?”

At his Perth dumpling outlet, Chef Brendan

Pang only sells his chilli oil on-site, although the

retail product is gaining traction. “We go through endless amounts of chilli oil for foodservice,” he

says, adding it was natural for the team to bottle it up and sell it. “We only sell it from Bumplings

and make it in small batches. [We] like to keep it small so it’s premium quality.”

Handmade is what sets the trio apart from

store bought, although they all rely on different processes. Assavakavinvong compares nam prik pao — a chilli jam from Central Thailand —

to the Chinese chilli oils dished up by Chotto

Motto and Bumplings. “It’s similar to chilli oil in Chinese,” he says. “But we roast shallots, garlic, chilli and dried shrimp and then we pound it to a paste, fry it in the oil and season with palm sugar, fish sauce and tamarind.”

August 2021 | 27

FEATURE // Chilli condiments

Most variations of nam prik

are based on shrimp paste, which

Assavakavinvong alters for foreign palates. “The original nam prik is

nam prik kapi — shrimp paste relish,” he says. “We pound garlic, chilli and shrimp paste in a mortar and pestle

until it’s very smooth. Then we season with lime juice, fish sauce and sugar to balance the flavour. It makes a

really intense flavour. We keep that flavour profile, but tone it down to serve Westerners.”

The kitchen will gradually dial

up the intensity as diners become

of desirable qualities together in one

slick spoonful. Like Assavakavinvong, the team has also taken Western

palates into account. The popular

condiment, developed by co-owner Kawasaki, is more akin to Chinese chilli oil than the Japanese rayu.

“Japan does have a few table chilli oils that are really good as well,”

says Jones. “It’s not super common

to have chilli oil in Japan, but I guess it’s something that’s really popular here in terms of dumplings.”

The crispy chilli oil is made using

more accustomed to the flavour

a blend of vegetable oil and sesame

bit more ... maybe we’ll tone it up

integral. “It just has that great taste;

profile. “When they get used to it a every week,” says the chef. “We take feedback [through front-of-house

staff] all the time [asking,] ‘Is it too

shrimpy or spicy?’ If everyone says it has good balance, we tone it up.”

Part of the process relies on

education. “Every time I talk about

sambal or nam prik to Westerners, I

always tell them the history and why

oil, the latter of which Jones says is I think you really need it,” he says.

“The rest of the ingredients we use are dry ingredients: garlic flakes;

dried chilli; dried scallion. We use a

product called tochi beans, which is

a fermented black bean. It’s probably one of the unique flavours in our chilli oil.”

The tochi beans bring a salty taste

we have it,” says Assavakavinvong.

and satisfying bite to the chilli oil.

condiments. Everything else — even

has quite a deep flavour,” says Jones.

“The main dish is rice and other

meat, fish — is the side dish. It’s

why we need to eat something with a very strong, intense flavour. A lot of people think sambal is too spicy,

[but] they don’t know how to eat it

— you can’t just scoop and put it in

“It’s a good, chewy texture and it

“They’re fermented black beans that have a super, super, super salty and earthy flavour. We use them very

sparingly, but you get these really salty, tiny bite-y bits.”

The Bumplings chilli oil takes

your mouth.”

its cues from Northern Chinese

There are multiple sambals on the

with. “The Bumplings chilli oil is

menu including sambal matah,

sambal teri tomat hijau and sambal bebek. While variations abound, they’re all underpinned by the

same concept and are renowned

for the holy grail of combinations: sweet, salty, fresh and spicy all

at once. “Every variation comes from a different village,” says

cuisine, which Pang is “obsessed” Sichuan style, with the Sichuan

peppercorns carrying the majority

of the fragrance,” says Pang. “There are other spices used which bring a familiar Chinese flavour that works so well with most dishes. The oil is vibrant red, medium in spice and

toasty/crunchy with the chilli flakes.

“We use Sichuan peppercorns,

Assavakavinvong. “Maybe one village

cinnamon and star anise amongst a

another in to make their own relish.

to Northern Chinese flavours. We

takes out one ingredient [and] adds

But it’s the same spicy, umami, fresh and salty [flavour].”

The same attributes could be

behind the success of Chotto Motto’s 28 | Hospitality

crispy chilli oil, which binds a litany

bunch of other spices — all relating infuse the oil for as long as we can

with the spices so it is rich with their flavours. We then sizzle the oil over some Chinese chilli flakes.”

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FEATURE // Chilli condiments

“The Bumplings chilli oil is Sichuan style, with the Sichuan peppercorns carrying the majority of the fragrance.”

– Brendan Pang Retail may be the name of the game during

Assavakavinvong details the restaurant’s

lockdowns, with chef-made packaged

market fish dish as an example. “Normally,

but condiments such as chilli oil still have an

says. “Many people have never had sambal

products now a mainstay for restaurants, important place on menus, too.

“We use our chilli oil in most dishes,”

says Pang. “Our dumplings are dressed

with a black vinegar and soy dressing and chilli oil. The cucumber salad has a dash of chilli oil for a kick and our spicy dan

we use red coral with sambal matah,” he matah before and they don’t know what it tastes like, so we offer it to them on

the side to try.” The approach also allows individuals to customise spice levels to their own tastes.

Assavakavinvong has also noted

dan noodles have a generous amount of

the wastage that comes with allowing

Alongside black garlic umami oil and

by charging for the tasting paddles. “In

the oil throughout.”

roasted sesame sauce, Chotto Motto’s crispy chilli oil is one of three sauce options diners can choose to accompany gyoza. Before the pandemic, each was offered on the

table, but the kitchen has since shifted to

money. You have people come in and put five tablespoons in their bowl.”

Chilli condiments are a staple in

Assavakavinvong’s cooking as well. “The

he says. “That’s why [at] Melrose, we’re offering four relishes for $10.”

No matter the style of chilli condiment,

intensive. “We make our own curry pastes

and all of the relishes ourselves as well,” says Assavakavinvong. “We make about 10 litres

Australia. “A lot of ingredients are quite different,” says Assavakavinvong.

A recent example was the search for a

chef a while to find after he moved from is methodical about his pursuit. “I check

what the suppliers and the grocery stores have,” he says. “I talk to my suppliers to ask if they can get a brand and if they

can’t, I start thinking about how I can take what I can get and [alter it]. I adjust the fish sauce or use caster sugar instead of

palm sugar; it’s part of the process — we have to play around every day.”

All the effort is worth it though, and the

out, I was pushing it on people,” says

Beyond charging for tastings,

costs associated with making condiments

30 | Hospitality

nuances in ingredients between cities in

then season every time before we use it.”

who want to try one that is not in the before they order.”

from Indonesian belacan, there can be

same goes for the Chotto Motto team.

it lasts a few weeks. We make the base and

Assavakavinvong tries to adapt his

dish,” he says. “We try to offer them a taste

Just like Thai shrimp paste differs

of something like the chilli jam at a time and

primary role [of the condiments] is in the dishes, and we also offer them to people

as pounding the mortar and pestle.

Melbourne to Brisbane. Assavakavinvong

many times, they are not touched at all,”

they’re all time consuming if not labour

says Jones. “It’s also a crazy waste of

sometimes the search is as demanding

Melbourne, we would not charge and so

kitchen combines the two together. “I think condiments on the table at the moment,”

quality. It’s not always a simple swap —

replacement palm sugar, which took the

It’s no surprise kitchens want some control.

people don’t really love the idea of shared

a cheaper price without sacrificing

flexibility. It’s a concern he’s addressed

saucing the gyoza before serving. Diners choose their sauce and gyoza and the

ingredients that can be bought for

processes to make up for the labour

like nam prik and sambal from scratch.

Often, it means looking for local

“To be honest, when it first started

Jones. “But it’s such a good product and really just sells itself. It sells really well anywhere we put it.”

While it might seem chilli oil has

exploded in popularity, it has a long history and intrinsic role in a variety of cuisines. ■

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FEATURE // Berkshire

The Wagyu of pork

Berkshire had a false start in the 80s, but its revival shows no signs of slowing down.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

BERKSHIRE IS A rare breed of pig that is highly

Hill about what makes the breed so special,

of pork’ is originally from — you guessed it —

it (you really can’t go wrong).

sought after in the culinary world. The ‘Wagyu Berkshire in South East England, and is one of

utilisiling the whole beast and how best to enjoy

the oldest breeds in the country. It was bred

Linton Batt grew up with Berkshire pigs. His

countries including the United States, Japan and

Great Southern region in Western Australia and

for the sole purpose of eating and exported to

Australia, where it is just one of five rare breeds.

While Berkshire continues to gain traction

across the globe, it was listed as vulnerable on its home soil in 2008. Fortunately, Berkshire

from Australian producers is in near-constant demand from local chefs who say it’s unlike anything else.

Hospitality speaks to Black Label Berkshire

Owner Linton Batt and Porcine Chef Nicholas 32 | Hospitality

family had a mixed farming business in the

he has steadily bred them since 2010. Berkshire were kept at Windsor Castle in the 1800s to

feed the royals, but incredibly, there was a time

in Australia where you couldn’t move the meat.

“We went away from breeding them because

it was hard to sell Berkshire in the 80s due to

the black hair,” says Batt. “We started breeding

commercial hybrid pigs because we just couldn’t make Berkshire work.”

“The only selection criterion is eating quality.” – Linton Batt

For passionate Aussie pig farmers Anne-Marie & Frank Vigliante, farming is in their blood.

Their knowledge and skills create a perfect environment for their pigs, and their land.

It’s this careful nurturing of their pigs and farm that creates their esteemed nose to tail pork.

They are PorkStars.

FEATURE // Berkshire

It wasn’t long before Batt went back to the

breed, in short, he “just couldn’t live without the quality of the meat”. Batt’s wife found a

bloodline he had as a child and “paid a fortune” for the bore. “It was from a very famous

breeder Rob Bradley and it was my Father’s Day gift,” he says. “We bred a lot of good pigs from that bore and started off with a few sows. We have since built our numbers up.”

There are a handful of rare breeds in

Australia including the Tamworth, Wessex

Saddleback, Large Black and Hampshire, but Berkshire has a point of difference and it all

boils down to one thing: “The only selection criterion is eating quality,” says Batt. “But it

does come with tradeoffs; they have smaller

litters, lower growth rates and they can get fat if you’re not careful. Richard Cole [breeder,

Lachlandale] says Berkshire is simply better pork, and he’s right.”

If you follow Nicholas Hill on Instagram (@nikhill_smoketrap), you would know

the Porcine chef is a devoted League of Pigs

supporter. The ‘greatest pig championship in the world’ sees five competitors jump across

mini hedges and dodge obstacles in a series of rounds until a winner is determined. Smalls, Hoshi, Ginger, Pepper and Bear all have Boudin noir en brioche

what it takes, but Hill is team Ginger. “Every

restaurant briefing, we have a quick discussion

of the day’s race,” he says. “We even contacted them about sponsoring, but

“We’ve also been doing 1kg sow steaks that we roast under medium. It’s dry-aged like beef and it has an almost gamey beef/ nutty flavour to it. It’s probably the best piece of pork we’ve cooked.” – Nicholas Hill

they politely declined.”

The chef is also a dedicated supporter of using Berkshire on the menu of

Porcine; a French bistro above a bottle shop in Sydney’s Paddington. “We’ve

been in operation for about five months now and we take a pig a week,” says

Hill. “We pretty much only use Berkshire because we’ve found a producer that’s exceptional. Extraordinary Pork in Dubbo is so consistent with sizing and we

generally see improvements with the pigs all the time. There’s something about the flavour of the fat of a pig that’s unsung.”

Porcine takes a whole Berkshire most weeks, utilising the beast across the

menu. But before it makes it to the plate, the pigs are hung to dry out. “My business partner at Smoketrap Eels [Michael Robinson] is also a butcher at

Hungerford Meat Co and he’s a former chef, so he’s really forward-thinking with the way he looks at carcasses,” says Hill. “The pigs go into a normal cool room with a high fan or into a dry-ageing room. It’s about the meat compacting and

tightening up, which can take 10 days to two weeks depending on the pig and

also what else is in the room. We’ve had sows in the same room as beef, so you get that similar bacteria which gives a cheesy flavour with certain cuts.”

The pigs arrive at Porcine split and with their heads removed before the team

breaks them down. “Every pig is different,” says Hill. “We might lose a chop or

a tomahawk because the wing rib sits too far down. Sometimes we’re restricted with cuts and sometimes we find one that has a massive shoulder and the two ribs are big, so we can do a chuck steak on the bone.

“Generally, we cut T-bones for the racks and we cut tomahawks because we

34 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Berkshire Pig's head terrine

always have a pork chop on the menu. The neck

hard work of producers. Gestation is under

and we use marbled high-fat cuts from the top

before Berkshires reach an ideal size, resulting

and the shoulder are turned into a terrine mix of the pig for mince. We use the legs for ham and trotters go into the stock. We take coppa

four months and it can take five to six months in Batt producing around 2,200 pigs a year.

“We have serious breeders in every state

chops near the top of the loin where it meets the

producing the pork and they have good

some ribs left. We’ve been working on that cut

to 400 sows and they’re all successful. But the

neck; it’s a neck chop, not the bone, and there’s

with our butcher. We’ve also been doing 1kg sow

steaks that we roast under medium. It’s dry-aged like beef and it has an almost gamey beef/nutty flavour to it. It’s probably the best piece of pork we’ve cooked.”

So what makes Berkshire so good? “The secret is the fat,” says Batt. “It has a lower melting

distribution supply chains,” he says. “One has up meat is expensive because production-wise, they cost more. People assume pork is cheap, and

Berkshire isn’t; it’s a luxury item. It is a super-

premium food and they pay for it. If we want our Australian standards, we have to pay for it, and

there are some serious, credible people investing money in production.”

Batt has also been investing in the breed,

point, which gives you that melt-in-your-mouth

using genomics and technology to learn more

humans seek. You can enhance it with nutrition,

program five years ago and the pork genome

sensation. It also has high oleic acid, which

but Berkshires naturally have it. The myofibers are shorter in the pig and it has evolved in a

similar way to Wagyu with the marbling and low melting point. Because of the breeding and the genetics, it will be the same every time — you

will never be disappointed. It’s everyone’s little secret and I like that.”

The secret has been making the rounds in

the culinary world, and Batt says Berkshire is

generally in good supply. However, it is a niche product despite the commercial push and 36 | Hospitality

about Berkshire. “We started a genomics

was mapped,” he says. “We can identify the

elite genes and make sure it’s another selection pressure on our breeding stock, so our pigs get better and better.”

Black Label is also using ultrasound equipment

to take measurements of live pigs, which enables

them to identify animals with high intramuscular fat and determine breeders. “We can scan the

roundness of the loin muscle and fat deposition,” says Batt.

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Dry-aged sow chop with charcuterie sauce

FEATURE // Berkshire

Porcine’s pigs are usually around 60kg

Sow meat is rising in popularity, much like dairy cows

Berkshire is one of five rare breeds in Australia

Australian producers send Berkshire genetics back to the UK

One of the great things about Berkshire is that, like all pigs, it’s a

productive protein source. Chefs are able to use every part of the carcass for multiple applications. Batt’s freezer is always full of chops and he always travels with a ham.

Hill is equally as enthusiastic and creative when it comes to

getting Berkshire on the plate. Pork tomahawk (tomapork) is one

of the highlights on Porcine’s menu: “We cut it like beef, roast it in the oven, rest it in butter and take off the loin once it’s cooked,”

says Hill. “We put some slits in the belly to open it up and grill it over charcoal and serve it on the side like a little chew toy. The flavour on a pig is paramount — it’s unreal.”

Hill recently dabbled in a take on osso bucco with pork stock,

prunes and truffle mash potato as well as a spin on char siu with pork neck roasted in beer honey. “We braise the shoulders and

serve with a simple garnish and we lightly brine the haunch of a pig and sauté as the chop for the night,” says the chef.

A whole pig head is perhaps the most show-stopping dish

Porcine has put up thus far. “We boned out a whole head and

made a farce with pistachio, ham, pork neck and Armagnac,” says

Hill. “We made a stock with the head bones and a cider consommé and glazed it — it looked like something from Henry the VIII’s

time. It’s from an old terrine book. There’s a lot of stuff with pork if you look back. People really appreciate it.”

The conversation around pork has certainly come a long way

and its rising status can be attributed to the hard work of local

producers. Australia is incredibly fortunate to have Berkshire and the breed is certainly trotting along in the right direction. “We

are just at the beginning of the journey,” says Batt. “The future is Berkshire.” ■

38 | Hospitality

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Fervor

FEATURE // Set menus 40 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Set menus

Ready, set, dine A set menu eliminates choice, but it’s far from a bad thing for diners and venues.

WORDS Monique Ceccato

WHETHER YOU CALL it a set menu or a fixed

menu — the concept is the same; and it certainly isn’t a new one. The fixed menu style of dining

and cemented as one of Western Australia’s most sought-after experiences.

No Waste Mondays are a riff on a standard set

has been around since the mid-to late-19th

menu and are as far from a parmi and pint deal

culinary writer Auguste Escoffier who launched

placed on the table for the shared, four-course

century thanks to French chef, restaurateur and the structured menu to streamline kitchens and remove diner indecision.

A set menu consists of a predetermined

selection of dishes within a specified number of

courses, all coming in at a fixed price. There are

two ways a set menu can work; there’s the table

d’hôte, which gives diners two to three choices of dish per course, or the prix fixe, where the meal appears exactly as it’s been set out on paper.

Escoffier’s intentions were clear when he

first introduced the set menu. In his quest to

streamline kitchen processes, the new structure upped wait staff efficiency, helped kitchens

minimise waste and ultimately improved the

bottom line of many restaurants. For all these

reasons and more, set menus have remained a mainstay among operators.

Hospitality talks to Millbrook Restaurant’s

Guy Jeffries, Wildflower’s Matthew Sartori and

Fervor’s Paul Iskov about how they juggle fixed options with à la carte menus and the benefits set menus have had on their operations.

as you can get. There’s no knowing what will be feast, with each menu offering a surprise for

guests. The kitchen strictly prepares dishes from what is left over from the previous four days of à la carte service, only adding produce sourced from the restaurant’s 90-year-old orchard and heirloom vegetable garden.

For those in the kitchen, it’s the ultimate

challenge in resourcefulness and creativity. “[We] order produce for four days of à la

carte and utilise the leftover prep and garden

gatherings on Monday,” says Jeffries. “Nothing is left over or goes in the bin. [We use the] same produce [as the à la carte menu] but

it’s reimagined into a family-style menu. Each table eats different food, which keeps things interesting for the chefs and the customers.”

Implementing the menu was an exercise in

sustainability and creativity for Jeffries and his

team, but minimising food waste wasn’t his only

motive. “[We manage to] fill the dining room on

in advance. “It’s everyone’s favourite day of the

Matthew Sartori, know all too well. He’s acutely

staff, customers and the bottom line,” says

Executive Chef Guy Jeffries. Initially, the lunches

were an initiative to reduce kitchen waste, but the $50 menu was soon propelled into the spotlight

the week because it makes sense for the environment, staff, customers and the bottom line.”

– Guy Jeffries

also very minimal food costs,” says the chef.

The financial benefits a set menu can offer is

week because it makes sense for the environment,

favourite day of

what would normally be a quiet day, [and there’s]

No Waste Mondays at Jarrahdale’s Millbrook

Restaurant are so popular they book out months

“It’s everyone’s

something many chefs, including Wildflower’s

aware of the cost-saving benefits the structure has,

but in his kitchen, the efficiencies are most evident

during service. “Set menus assist the bottom line in that it gives the restaurant more control over the

cost of goods,” says the chef. “They are profitable, August 2021 | 41

FEATURE // Set menus providing you keep your cost of goods and wages at the budget you give yourself.”

Dividing the menu up into predetermined courses allows

Sartori’s kitchen and wait staff to focus on sending out high

volumes of fewer, quality dishes as opposed to reactively piecing together an endless stream of unpredictable orders. “We offer

Matthew Sartori

three different set menus [at Wildflower],” he says. “The first is

a lunch-only, two-course menu with three choices of entrée and

main served with sourdough and a side for $56. [There’s also] an

optional dessert course. In the evening, we offer a four-course and a six-course tasting menu for $135 or $165.”

While dinner service follows the more rigid prix fixe format, Sartori

views his set lunch menu — a table d’hôte-style menu — as more of

a succinct à la carte offering. The dishes served during lunch service tend to be a little more reserved than those on the evening tasting menus for no reason other than the fact they can be. “I believe set menus and creativity go hand in hand,” he says, alluding to the

freedoms the kitchen has in preparing the discovery-style tasting

menu for his guests. “There may be one entrée, main and a dessert on the two-course menu, which has a version on the tasting menu, but otherwise, it [is] quite different.”

Sartori has built his menus at Wildflower around the Noongar

six seasons in homage to the Whadjuk Noongar land on which

No Waste Mondays' zucchini dish

the restaurant sits. Departing from the typical four seasons model and following six allows the chef to showcase fresh Indigenous Australian produce and ups the creativity stakes. Wildflower’s menus change every eight to nine weeks at a minimum. “It’s

important to constantly evolve set menus, much like à la carte,”

says Sartori. “The reason [we] offer a tasting menu is so we can

showcase the produce we love to work with and balance different dishes in a multi-course menu.”

It’s a strategy that’s growing in popularity, with Fervor’s Owner

and Head Chef Paul Iskov also choosing to base his ever-evolving set menus on available and abundant ingredients.

Iskov’s business model differs from most bricks and mortar

restaurants, with Fervor moving to different locations and offering one prix fixe menu for each sitting. Iskov travels the length and

breadth of Western Australia and focuses on showcasing locally sourced produce, presenting it in a pop-up degustation dining

format. “For us, we have a set menu to highlight the ingredients 42 | Hospitality

Wildflower

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FEATURE // Set menus Fervor dishes

from the region — the country — we’re on,” he

“Having a set menu also makes us really aware

says. “Our menu changes with each region or

and thoughtful of the ingredients we’re utilising.

to weekend. We probably have around 40

realise how hard it is to get that ingredient and

place we go, so it will be different from weekend different menus each year.”

Fervor dinners are pitched as an evening

of indulgence and exploration, starting

with six standing canapés followed by eight

If we’re digging for tubers with the ladies, you

just how special it is. It really has an impact on

us, so we try to be more thoughtful when we’re designing dishes.”

The uniqueness of what Iskov does serves him

seated courses and three or four petit fours

twofold, with new guests seeking his dinners

collaboration with, the traditional custodians

multiple times, regardless of the premium he puts

featuring native ingredients foraged by, and in of the land. “Whether it’s seeds, nuts, grains,

different plants or seafood elements, we always incorporate something from the place we’re

in,” says Iskov. “Or, if we’re a bit more inland, freshwater or river animals and plants.”

From the Pinnacles Desert in Cervantes and

Mingenew in the mid-west to remote islands off

out and other guests returning to dine with him

on the experience. “We find that we have return

guests who come to different events because they get to try a different menu. But in saying that, it’s not like you can pop down to see us and have a

“Having a set menu

of the ingredients, the logistics and the time put in.”

also makes us really

quick $30 lunch. The price range is higher because

the coast, Iskov has taken his pop-up restaurant

Whether the offering is at a premium or more

the state. With the mobility of his operations

menu is the same — it streamlines the kitchen

to some of the most challenging landscapes in come plenty of unique challenges, many of

which are solved by utilising the prix fixe menu format. “A fixed menu means we can weigh

how much purée we take to an event because we know how much a teaspoon of that purée

weighs,” says the chef. “At the end of the dinner, there’s minimal wastage compared to an à la carte menu.

44 | Hospitality

approachable price point, the premise of the set and tightens the reigns on the bottom line,

all while providing diners with an exciting,

story-driven culinary experience. It may have

originated well before the 21st century, but the

application of the fixed menu is just as relevant

now as it was back then, which is evident in the

increasing number of establishments choosing to go table d’hôte or prix fixe. ■

aware and thoughtful of the ingredients we’re utilising.”

– Paul Iskov

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FEATURE // Equipment

The essentials Quality kitchen equipment is just as vital to a five-star dish as the produce it’s made from.

WORDS Monique Ceccato THE TOOLS USED to create a dish can have a significant impact on

what you send out to the customer. Not to mention, quality equipment can considerably improve a kitchen’s prep, cooking and cleaning time, whether it’s a simple hand-held gadget or a multi-function tool.

Hospitality asks chefs Amy Hamilton, Kenny McHardy, Melissa Palinkas,

Nic Wood and Russell Blaikie to share their new purchases, tried and tested favourites and the non-negotiable essentials in their kitchens.

Amy Hamilton Liberté “Some of my favourite pieces of kitchen equipment are the cheapest and most random,” says Amy Hamilton, head chef and owner of Albany bar and restaurant

Liberté. It’s nothing fancy, but a simple green bean

splitter she picked up in an op shop is in top rotation.

“You push a green bean through a handheld gadget

with three blades that simultaneously skin the outside of the bean and slice [it] in half lengthways,” says

Hamilton. “If a chef had to do it manually with a knife, I’d probably end up with a far more inferior product and be broke by now.”

For Hamilton, some of the most-used and essential

items in her kitchen are the simplest. She admits the

fast pace of Liberté wouldn’t run without a couple of

“good, non-stick pans for the tonnes of crab noodles,

our steamer for baos and puddings [and] our blue kiwi julienne peeler we use to shred everything.”

Hamilton also encourages chefs to

think about cost versus reward. “I think it’s

important to ask yourself whether the kitchen

equipment you’re buying improves the longer-

term day-to-day running of the kitchen and the

quality and efficiency of the food coming out of

it,” she says. “If it does, those purchases are always

important. Hamilton answered the question herself with the purchase of a new 32-cup rice cooker

that recently arrived at the restaurant. “It’s easy to overspend on gadgets that might be useful for one dish but don’t benefit your operation in the long run.”

“I think it’s important to ask yourself whether the kitchen equipment you’re buying improves the longer-term day-to-day running of the kitchen and the quality and efficiency of the food coming out of it.” – Amy Hamilton 46 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Equipment

Melissa Palinkas Young George Bar & Kitchen and Ethos Deli + Dining Room Running two bustling restaurants is an exercise in extreme

organisation. For Melissa Palinkas, co-owner and chef at Young George and Ethos Deli, large-scale, multi-purpose tools are the key to keeping up with the huge demand put on her kitchens.

“Currently, I’m in the middle of upgrading my Unox stacker ovens

to the larger sizes and my Stagionello charcuterie chamber from a 100kg capacity to a 150kg capacity,” says the chef.

It’s an important move for Palinkas, who says efficiency is

everything. “[A bigger oven means I’m] able to bake more at

one time to increase volume to sell,” she says. With upwards of 10 house-cured charcuterie items on the menu at Ethos Deli at

any given time and a commitment to no-waste principles across food and beverage in both venues, an abundance of curing and storage capacity is non-negotiable for her. “The curing fridge

gives me an extra 50kg of product; it takes around three to four months to produce salami, so [it’s] very important.”

Given her reliance on capacity and versatility, Palinkas’

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favourite item in her kitchen has multiple purposes. “My favourite

M

thing in the kitchen is my Target top oven at Young George,” she

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says. “It’s a great unit and I’m able to have so many things going

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at once.” But, when it comes to no-fail essentials, Palinkas swears

by her trusty “KitchenAid stand mixer, Thermomix and a good set

MY

of scales”.

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Nic Wood Santini Bar and Grill When it comes to buying new tools for his kitchen, Nic Wood from Santini Bar and Grill won’t settle for anything less than the best. “I haven’t

[purchased anything new] recently as the kitchen at Santini is only three

years old,” he says. “When we set it up, we got quality equipment [which] we continue to maintain on a weekly basis. Having the appropriate equipment to cook with is as important as getting the best produce you can find.”

The menu at Santini covers everything from

antipasti to an 800g bistecca alla fiorentina

and six different pizzas. It also relies on two

of Wood’s most-used kitchen appliances. “My lava rock grill and pizza oven are two of my favourite pieces,” he says. “They are essential in a kitchen these days, but my lava rock grill is super important to the way I cook food. I love how the grill changes the profile of the

food by giving it more flavour and an amazing crust on a protein when you cook it.”

48 | Hospitality

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PASSION DRIVES INNOVATION

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It is passion and the sense of innovation that focused Stoddart to partner with American Range to develop the heavy duty modular cooking range exclusively designed for the Australian market.

The American Range lineup, specifically designed from the ground up, is a heavy duty, commercial range of cooking equipment, built for the Australian Commercial Kitchen environment.

The sleek, modular design allows for customisation for both front of house or back of house production applications.

FEATURE // Equipment

“Taking care with a

Russell Blaikie

knife and ensuring it’s

Prendiville Group As the recently appointed Director

business.” The chef has made sure all

Blaikie is already making changes

“I can’t physically make custard as good

of Food at Prendiville Group, Russell in the kitchens he heads up. “At the

Cottesloe Beach Hotel, we just bought

a couple of brand new fryers which are amazing,” he says. “They have a really

fast recovery and they use just over half

the amount of oil the fryers we replaced

Prendiville kitchens have at least one. as it can be made in a Thermomix,”

says Blaikie. “They don’t just chop; they actually cook, blend and emulsify, and

they do it so well. They get a bashing in hospitality and they seem to last.”

Technology also plays a huge role

did. The oil life is longer because

in Blaikie’s kitchens, aiding in both

efficiently; we get at least another day

never underestimate the importance of

the thermostat in there works really or two out of the oil.”

Though he’s happy with the new

addition, there’s no stopping Blaikie

when it comes to talking about his alltime favourite kitchen appliance: the

Thermomix. “I was a Thermo sceptic in

the past and I thought, ‘What’s all this?’

But my wife had a Thermomix party years ago and we bought one. Since

then, I’ve always had one of them at my 50 | Hospitality

efficiency and quality control. But he’ll

a good knife. “A sharp knife is essential,” he says. “It’s reflected in the food that goes on the plate. If you’re chopping herbs, you’re going to bruise them

if the knife isn’t super sharp. When

you’re cutting meat or portioning fish, it’s going to look ragged with a dull knife. Taking care with a knife and

ensuring it’s sharp is one of the prime responsibilities of a chef.”

sharp is one of the prime responsibilities of a chef.” – Russell Blaikie

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FEATURE // Equipment

Kenny McHardy Manuka Woodfire Kitchen With a name like Manuka Woodfire Kitchen, there’s no guessing as to what Chef and Owner Kenny McHardy considers kitchen essentials. “For me, the most important item in my kitchen is

dry and cured firewood,” says McHardy, who opened Manuka with his wife six years ago. Inspired by his upbringing in New

Zealand, McHardy named his Fremantle-based restaurant after the wood he remembers collecting with his family.

Imparting its flavour on the likes of wood-roasted olives and

Abrolhos Island scallops with celeriac remoulade and prawn

bisque, the type and condition of the wood McHardy chooses to fire up his oven with plays a vital role in the end result of dishes. “We mainly use jarrah and white gum for service [at

Manuka],” he says. “With the change of seasons, it also means we have to change our processes during winter to keep the wood dry.”

Recently, the kitchen underwent an overhaul which saw the

installation of a new wood oven. After six years in service,

McHardy realised “it was time for the old one to hang up its

boots”, he says. “We had to close for a week to get it installed, so it was important we got it right.”

52 | Hospitality

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VIDEO // Behind the scenes

Alpha’s Domatini An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series.

ALPHA’S DOMATINI IS a Greek take on a classic cocktail — the martini.

A tomato and rosemary consommé is added to a base of vodka and vermouth before a quick shake and a candied tomato topper.

Ingredients 60ml Beluga Noble vodka 5ml Noilly Prat dry vermouth Rosemary and tomato consommé Candied cherry tomato Rosemary sprig

Method 1. Fill Boston shaker with ice and add in vodka, vermouth and consommé.

2. Shake quickly until components are bruised.

3. Strain into a martini glass and garnish with a candied cherry tomato speared with rosemary.

Scan the QR code to watch the full video brought to you

by Cookers

54 | Hospitality

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EQUIPMENT // Outdoor oven

Grill/smoker/ pizza oven The Gozney Dome sold out in just eight hours. But don’t worry, there’s a waitlist.

Roasts, steams, smokes and bakes

Air intake technology ensures heat control

Cooks pizza at 500

Stone puck system allows

degrees Celsius

users to switch between gas and fire Ceramic-coated outer casing is

Has an integrated

water-resistant

Has a built-in thermometer and meat probes

56 | Hospitality

ash-removal tray

Fire basket and woodplacement tool help users create and maintain fire

Comes in two models: wood-fire cooking ($1,999) or dual mode ($2,499), which has a gas burner

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Steve Jacomos

Steve Jacomos

The Edgar's Inn chef made the move to Canberra where he’s heading up four concepts rolled into one.

PHOTOGRAPHY Megann Evans WHEN LOCKDOWN HIT Melbourne in

scene. I’m used to being able to go out

time on our hands to think about what

that are still packed after 10pm or later.

2020, my partner and I had some extra

we wanted to be doing. I’ve always loved

Melbourne, but we started to consider our long-term plans and a change of scenery.

We have family in Canberra and Sydney and that support really helps when you

best Australian locally sourced produce

I’ve noticed that’s rare in Canberra, and it’s

My food style is simple and I try not to

something we’re excited to bring to locals

at Wakefield’s by making sure our kitchen stays open late.

The role at Wakefield’s was part of an

have a young family like ours. It was a

offer as executive chef at Edgar's Inn,

decided on Canberra after the amazing

further my career. Taking on a role at a

toss-up between the two, but we ultimately opportunity at Edgars presented itself.

I’ve been living in Canberra for just over

eight months now and have been working my way through a huge list of venues. I

which came at a time I was looking to

58 | Hospitality

Meats in Sydney and the rainbow trout for

the crumpets is from the Snowy Mountains. I like to keep my dishes to no more than three or four elements on the plate.

Some of the fan favourites so far have been

butter and sage. The one thing everyone has

I love to use high-quality, local produce

was to implement my style of cooking

I’m really craving is that late-night food

charcuterie is sourced from LP’s Quality

challenge I couldn’t pass up.

offerings within itself was appealing and a

cuisines and experiences. So many venues always help to raise the bar. The only thing

overcomplicate dishes. For example, our

lamb riblets, chargrilled blue mackerel and a

and build original menus, and this was a

are in fierce competition, which will

and treat it with the respect it deserves.

venue that essentially has four different

can tell you that Canberra’s food scene is thriving and has such a great variety of

As a chef, my primary focus is to use the

after a night at work for dinner at venues

great opportunity to do just that. My goal across the venue, build a strong team

and make sure everyone is excited by and proud of the food they are serving.

handmade maccheroni with pumpkin, burnt come back for is our double cheeseburger,

which may sound simple, but when you use

quality, dry-aged beef, it’s crazy how delicious a simple burger can be. [Diners can expect]

seasonal, fresh, simple, share plates [moving forward]. I can’t share too much. You’ll have to come and find out. ■

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