Hospitality August 2019

NO.756 AUGUST 2019

DAVE PYNT ON BURNT ENDS • WORLD’S 50 BEST • DIVERSITY IN FOOD WRITING

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CONTENTS // August

Contents AUGUST 2019

16

Regulars 6 // IN FOCUS The research is in: solo dining is on the rise.

8 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more.

22

16 // BUSINESS PROFILE Why Burnt Ends is better than ever.

20 // DRINKS Food and drink are a natural pair, but are bartenders and chefs?

40 // BEHIND THE SCENES The Taphouse’s brisket.

10 // PRODUCE The story behind misticanza.

41 // EQUIPMENT Egg rings aren’t just for eggs …

12 // BEST PRACTICE Use technology to up your staff management skills.

42 // 5 MINUTES WITH …

Lucas Restaurants’ Nabila Kadri.

14 // COLUMN Melissa Leong on diversity in food writing.

32

Features 22 // WORLD’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS A recap of 50 Best Talks, the ceremony and events.

28 // PORK Local producers are leading the way in quality, sustainability and animal welfare.

32 // REGIONAL PAIRINGS An exploration of the old adage ‘what grows together goes together’.

38 // BRUNCH IN SINGAPORE A new lifestyle brunch combines French and local cuisines.

August 2019 | 3

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social @annabellecloros

Hospitality on tour

Hawker goodness Chicken rice from Ah Tai at Maxwell hawker centre.

AS I WRITE this editor’s note, I’m in Hong

Mirazur was named as no.1, the festivities

Kong having dinner at Belon — solo. While

also included the 50 Best Talks on the topic

I’m seated in between two couples, I

of kitchen karma — read about the whole

don’t feel awkward or alone even though

shebang on p22.

I’m — shock horror — sans wifi. I’m secretly

And when in Singapore, paying a visit to

smug because I know I’m having a different

Aussie chef Dave Pynt (the guy behind the

experience; one that’s arguably better than

top ranking ‘Australian’ restaurant in the

the people next to me.

world) at Burnt Ends is a must. We talk about

Until recently, solo dining wasn’t

Lunch of champions

everything from the nuances of running a

something I did beyond grabbing a quick

restaurant in Singapore to the role Michelin

bite in a food court. I never thought I’d be

stars play in the dining experience on p16.

that person sitting at a table having the

Back on home soil, journalist Madeline

chef’s menu alone — but I am, and it’s not

Woolway has penned features on chefs

just me. Research has shown the category

collaborating with bartenders to create

of solo diners is on the rise, so what are

cocktails with a difference and the

you doing to cater to them? We explore the

importance of knowing where your pork

trend on p6.

comes from.

I also did quite a bit of solo dining during my time in Singapore covering The World’s 50

I hope you enjoy this ‘international’ edition of Hospitality.

Best Restaurants, from char siu, chicken rice and boiled peanut soup in hawker centres to

Until next time,

checking out the newly opened Cloudstreet.

Annabelle Cloros

While I’m sure many of you are well aware

The Burnt Ends sanger is crammed full of smoked beef and slaw.

Starting the day right Café Gray Deluxe in Hong Kong’s The Upperhouse takes avocado toast to a new level.

Follow us

Editor

@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock cblacklock@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymagazine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

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DISCLAIMER This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2019 – The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd

4 | Hospitality

IN FOCUS // Solo dining

Table for one New research has revealed a growing number of diners are going it alone.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros SOLO DINING WAS once the

with a 70 per cent contribution

association for male solo dining

the least popular mealtime, with

domain of business travellers

to growth (CTG). New South

(61 per cent) due to the workforce

21 per cent of Australians eating

and those on the go, but a new

Wales and Victoria comprise

make up,” says Gimantha

alone in the evening. “Years

report has revealed Australians

the largest solo dining markets

Jayasinghe, deputy managing

ago, eating alone was pretty

are fast shedding the stigma of

at 35 per cent and 31 per cent

director, APAC, at The NPD

uncommon,” says Jayasinghe. “If

eating alone.

respectively. In addition, they are

Group. “36 per cent of solo diners

you were a solo diner, you were

the top two growth states, sitting

are white collar, with 57 per cent

looked at strangely or people

released by research company

A CREST trends report

at 42 per cent CTG each over a

between the ages of 25 to 49.”

assumed you were a food critic.”

The NPD Group found solo

three-year period.

dining now accounts for 40 per

The research also revealed

A staggering 77 per cent of

The statistics indicate

solo dining experiences occur

the market is changing, and

cent of traffic share within the

some interesting facts about

on weekdays, with breakfast the

operators should consider how

foodservice sector.

the demographic of solo

most popular meal (60 per cent)

they can cater to solo diners

diners. “Middle-aged working

for Australians to eat alone. A

from seating arrangements and

currently account for 41 per

consumers are the core solo

‘morning snack’ came in second

providing reading materials to

cent traffic share of the sector

diners in Australia, with a stronger

place at 50 per cent. Dinner was

offering half portions. ■

On-premises operations

6 | Hospitality

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NEWS // Entrée

Babylon opens in Sydney Westfield Sydney’s rooftop is now home to Babylon, a Levantine-inspired restaurant and bar. The venue has a total capacity of 800 and comprises a garden terrace, bar, restaurant and private dining rooms. Head chef Arman Uz has designed a food offering influenced by Israel, Lebanon, Cyprus, Turkey and Egypt. The menu has been divided into flora, fauna and ocean with dishes including 12-hour braised lamb neck with dumplings, yoghurt, chilli butter and mint along with sayadieh, a rice dish with snapper, baharat spice, pistachio and tarator. Bar manager David Nutting has drawn up the cocktail list with the venue also offering a 250-plus whisky list and more than 300 wines selected by sommelier Simon Howland. babylonrooftop.com.au

Entrée

Scott Pickett’s new cookbook Marriage of Flavours Scott Pickett

The latest openings, books, events and more.

$39.99; Lantern Melbourne chef and restaurateur Scott

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Pickett has penned a guide to seasonal cooking in his latest book. Marriage of Flavours is split into four sections (spring,

Lotus returns

autumn, winter, summer) and revolves around eight flavour profiles. Each recipe is

Dan Hong will go back to his roots with the launch

accompanied by market tips, wine matches,

of Lotus 2.0, which is set to pop up in spring. The

ingredient substitutions and pointers from

Asian-Mediterranean concept will open in the

the chef himself. Highlights include gnocchi

former site of The Fish Shop in Potts Point, which

with gorgonzola and silverbeet along with

has closed after seven years in business. Diners

apple tarte tatin with star anise ice cream.

can expect to see the return of cult classics

Can it!

including the cheeseburger and hot fudge sundae.

“Lotus was the beginning of my journey with Merivale and my first position as a head chef,”

Canned cocktail company Curatif has debuted two

says Hong. “They were some of the best years of

ready-to-drink cocktails in collaboration with

my career and it means so much to go back and

Australia’s leading distillers. The negroni features Four

cook where it all began.” merivale.com

Pillars Spiced Negroni Gin with added pepperberry and

Photography by Nikki To

cinnamon to ensure a balanced drink. Seven Seeds espresso and Archie Rose Original Vodka combine to create the ideal espresso martini that boasts sweet tones and plenty of toffee goodness. Available in four packs and by the case from Dan Murphy’s and liquor stores. curatif.com

Sydney farewells Paper Bird Paper Bird has joined a growing number of Sydney restaurants calling it a day. While the venue will officially close on 3 August, Paper Bird will open for lunch on Fridays and Saturdays along with dinner from Monday to Saturday.

Chefs and co-owners Ben Sears and Eun Hee An will bring back the shrimp-brined fried chicken with soy and maple syrup and churn out shallot pancakes and katsu sandos in Paper Bird’s final days. paperbirdrestaurant.com Photography by Alana Dimou 8 | Hospitality

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Some varieties

PRODUCE // Misticanza

come in solid colours.

Other varieties

Can also be

are green with

buttery, almost

Described as

purple flecks.

coating the

sweet and bitter.

mouth.

Best grown in the cooler months.

Misticanza A delightful mix of chicory, misticanza is sweet, bitter and buttery rolled into one.

WORDS Falani and Olivier Sofo ILLUSTRATION Elena Fombertaux Origins

at their best in growth habit and flavour. To

refrigerator. When grown in Europe during

Essentially, misticanza is the Italian name for

harvest, we cut each head of greens, discard

winter, the heads are often left in the ground

mixed salad greens. Traditionally, it refers to

the outer leaves and separate the hearts.

and can still be dug up with hearts extracted

a mix of wild herbs and greens, with many

— even if blanketed in snow. If heads are left

coming from the chicory family. The name

Flavour profile and appearance

whole, they store very well. Once opened and

misticanza is from the Roman dialect, but it

When grown in the cooler months, the flavour

turned into misticanza, they store well for one

has incarnations in every region, like most

can be described as sweet, bitter and

week if kept cold and airtight.

Italian things.

buttery. Some varieties are crisp and juicy while others are robust and bitter, subtle and

Culinary applications

we like to use greens from the chicory family.

sweet or so buttery it feels like they leave a

Misticanza is eaten after the main meal

For us, this includes Variegata di Castelfranco,

coating of butter in the mouth.

because of its bitter complexity. It acts as a

In our interpretation at Living Earth Farm,

Variegata di Luisa, Variegata di Chioggia,

They vary in size and shape and encompass

digestive and prepares the palate for dessert.

Cornetto di Bordeaux, Bianco Milano, Pala

everything from small, round heads and cos

When paired with a simple dressing, it is

Rossa, Cicoria Rossa and Cicoria Puntarelle a

lettuce-shaped loaves to loose, open hearts.

unquestionably life-changing. Misticanza

Foglia Stretta.

They are colourful, textured and absolutely

should always be eaten raw and never

stunning. Some of the varieties have amazing

cooked. In our grandparents’ days, misticanza

Seasonality and harvest

variegation and others are just solid colours.

provided valuable nutrition to people’s diets.

Chicory can be in season all year round if you

Their colour is always brilliant and luminescent.

Having once consisted of dozens of varieties

grow the right varieties and live in a not-too-

of wild herbs and flowers, many of the

hot climate. We grow them from autumn to

Storage

varieties we eat today descend from these

winter as we believe that is when they are

Chicory can last a while if stored well in the

ancestral plants.■

10 | Hospitality

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BEST PRACTICE // Management

Streamline your management style Invest in these tools and services to take your skills to the next level.

WORDS Ken Burgin

THERE ARE MANY new tools

like foundU include applicant

hours match with sales volume.

Reviews

and services to help you

tracking, VEVO checks and

Some services such as foundU

When it’s time to review staff

manage employees across areas

communication with applicants.

offer their own payroll service,

performance, form-builder

including recruitment, induction,

and others integrate with the

services or checklist apps

rostering, workflow and legal

Induction and on-boarding

common payroll systems. Single-

can also be used to create

obligations. Foodservice and

The first days of training can make

touch payroll (weekly reporting)

standardised reports. Keep it

restaurants have taken shortcuts

a big difference to the success

is now mandatory for all

simple, but do it at least twice

in the past, but new regulations

of your hire and how quickly they

businesses with more than five

a year — text staff a copy of

and requirements mean

understand the job. Share the

staff, so automating this process

the form to look at before you

employers need to be at the top

staff rules, handbook and job

eliminates potential errors.

sit down for a meeting. Keeping

of their game. Here are some

descriptions online with a service

tools and services that can help

such as Google Sites. Training can

Managing

it’s available anytime, anywhere.

you manage your employees with

be a combination of observation,

Manage staff tasks and

Smart use of simple technology

ease and accuracy.

coaching and online resources.

responsibilities with apps such as

puts you back in control. ■

Services including Typsy provide

iAuditor, Chore Checklist or Todo

Recruitment

short video courses on safety,

Cloud. Setting a standard of tech-

A modern website and active

customer service and product

enabled productivity impresses

social media accounts can

knowledge, and you can also add

staff and gives you more control.

impress applicants who aren’t

your own videos to the platform.

Efficiency is an important part

already aware of your business.

this information online ensures

of establishing a strong culture,

Include a ‘join our team’ section

Rostering

as is regular communication.

on your website to attract a

There are many rostering

Most rostering apps include

steady stream of potential

services available from Deputy

internal messages or you can

employees. Link to a form with

and Ento to Zuus. These

create a group on WhatsApp or

services such as Google Forms

platforms provide accurate

Facebook’s Workplace. These

or Wufoo and include questions

information about wage costs,

tools allow everyone to keep up to

about availability times, visa and

especially if matched with

date with news or any workplace

contact details. Rostering services

POS data, to see how rostered

announcements.

12 | Hospitality

Wagyu doughnut 2kg full-blood Wagyu 150ml TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce 75ml Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp smoked garlic purée 1 tbsp black garlic powder 110g tomato paste 90g grated parmesan cheese 4 smoked eggs 4 tbsp TABASCO® Spicy Salt Parsley — to taste Spiced semolina flour, egg wash and breadcrumbs to crumb doughnuts

Chris Wade’s Wagyu doughnut with TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce

The hatted head chef from Steak Ministry shares the recipe for his Wagyu doughnut.

Glaze 200ml parmesan cheese béchamel 4g fresh truffle Gel 500ml TABASCO® Buffalo Style Sauce 250ml chicken stock 5g agar agar

Method 1. Mince the full-blood Wagyu.

WITH EXPERIENCE WORKING alongside

To form the perfect doughnut, Wade

2. In a bowl, mix the Wagyu

Gordon Ramsay and Curtis Stone, Steak Maestro

recommends pressing the mince into a regular

with Worcestershire sauce,

Chris Wade has built a reputation for working

ring mould. “Overnight, the Wagyu fat will set,

TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce,

with premium products. Wade is passionate

helping them to cook perfectly,” he says.

smoked garlic purée and

about showcasing quality ingredients through great cooking — whether it’s Wagyu beef or authentically crafted TABASCO® pepper sauces.

Wade currently leads the kitchen team at Melbourne’s Steak Ministry and his Wagyu doughnut has been a hit with diners. The secret ingredient? TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce.

The portfolio of TABASCO® pepper sauces offer a range of heat options and flavour profiles, making the iconic brand a versatile and indispensable part of the global food culture.

For his recipe, Wade opts for the rich, smoky

Follow the recipe below to plate up a perfect Wagyu doughnut with TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce.

TABASCO®, the Diamond and Bottle Logos are trademarks of McIlhenny Co. For more recipes, please follow facebook.com/TabascoAU

tomato paste.

3. Add the smoked eggs, grated parmesan cheese and parsley to the mixture.

4. M ix well and cook a small amount of the mixture inside glad wrap.

5. Once happy with seasoning and flavour, roll into 55g balls.

6. Form into doughnut moulds and freeze until firm.

7. C over in spiced semolina

flavour of the TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce, which

flour, egg wash and

stands up well to the full-blood Wagyu because

breadcrumbs.

the vine-ripened, red jalapeño peppers are smoked over an open pecan wood fire to create a full-bodied, moderate heat flavour.

“Condiments have always been important for cooking, especially when it comes to meat,” says Wade. “But TABASCO® pepper sauces really have so many great, ready-made flavours that match

8. Fry at 170 degrees Celsius for three minutes or until cooked.

9. Season with TABASCO® Spicy Salt.

10. D ip the Wagyu doughnuts in the glaze and serve.

with the different meats I use.”

August 2019 | 13

ADVERTORIAL // TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce

Ingredients

COLUMN // Diversity in food writing

Writing in colour Why Australian food writing won’t change until the players do.

WORDS Melissa Leong AS A KID growing up in predominantly

by all food writers and is just an innate

that can only be a good thing, whether

in introducing friends to my Chinese-

spell it out so literally? Chef Joel Valvasori

we’re evolving,” she says.

white suburban Sydney, I delighted

Singaporean culture, especially when it

came to food. I loved being the one who

brought ‘weird’ lunches to school, in a time where sticky rice parcels and bento boxes would elicit a full playground audience.

I loved seeing the sense of achievement

cross someone’s face when they tried — and liked — something new.

The joy of encouraging people to eat

outside their comfort zone is one shared 14 | Hospitality

part of the job, so we do really need to

of Perth’s Lulu La Delizia isn’t convinced.

that’s a function of media or just how

“As an eater, no amount of someone telling

Speaking of evolution, it’s fair to say there’s

mind,” he says. “As a restaurateur, a media

when it comes to the current media state of

me I should eat something will change my article might attract a couple of people,

but I don’t think it really changes people’s behaviour.”

Palisa Anderson of Chat Thai and

Boon Luck Farm is a bit more diplomatic.

“People are becoming more curious, and

a general dissatisfaction across the board

play. Does it explain the amount of published pieces irately forwarded to me from chefs

and restaurateurs, or why I sometimes feel a

sense of cringe when I read a piece about the food I grew up with written by a writer who doesn’t quite seem to get it? Is it the overly

knowing tone, a lack of diversity in voices

and backgrounds or just terrible journalism that’s bothering us?

“I’m sick of white people writing about

Asian food like they know better than us,” says Melbourne chef Jerry Mai. “I find the

writer and publication less credible [when that happens].”

It isn’t to say that one shouldn’t write about food outside their cultural

experience for fear of reprisal. After all, it is a writer’s job to eat and educate

ourselves broadly and encourage others to do so, too. But the general gut feel

here is that no matter where you come

from, writing on any subject of speciality requires a decent sense of tact, research

and respect. On some level, when it’s not,

“The first, and probably most pervasive,

challenge is that writers of colo[u]r

Igni’s Aaron Turner, who are aware of the

traditional foods, while white writers are

“It’s something that has weighed heavily

are often limited to writing about their given much latitude to explore a wide

variety of cuisines beyond their immediate expertise,” says Miller. Writing from the

perspective of being an African-American

food writer in the US he acknowledges how this experience is shared among writers of

colour in general, and I can certainly attest.

My first few years of writing clocked a

culture? No. I’m arguing for more balance in who gets the writing assignment.

Depending upon the angle sought, an

African-American writer may be able to tell

a story with more dimension than someone unfamiliar with the culture. At the very

least, that writer will avoid the kinds of

mistakes that get people in a lot of trouble

stop cooking with olive oil and start with butter.

cultural appreciation, what are the challenges facing people of colour in food media?

efforts won’t be for nothing.

In terms of ‘getting it’, Lee Ho Fook’s

“I used to feel more sensitive before in

and my business,” he says. “Now, I don’t really care if they label my restaurant

‘fusion’. It’s only because they can’t put

other words together to describe it better.”

necessarily have a critical bearing on the

know what they’re talking about,” says

Merivale executive chef Dan Hong, though he’s also quick to add there is a certain

amount of affront to be taken when a non-

Asian writer tells him how to eat, as though

the ethnic background of a writer shouldn’t story, so long as the writing is sound,

the research is apparent and the tone is

respectful. But as Miller notes, do we lose something by way of dimension?

There’s no doubt that what’s going on

it’s a new discovery. “When someone tells

in the world has us all feeling a little raw.

prawn’, it’s like, ‘Shut the f**k up. This is

landscape and the intertwined relationship

me, ‘You should try sucking the head of the the way we have always done it’.”

“I don’t mind who’s writing, but for me,

more,” says Vietnamese-Australian chef

job that requires a reasonably firm grasp on

conscious respect leads me to believe his

matter to me who’s writing the story if they

Like many first-generation migrant kids

Australia. When it comes to food writing; a

and its influence. Somehow, this degree of

I’m inclined to agree with the perspective

I think someone from an Asian background

and country, it’s a fascinating lens to view

chapter of his life in Nashville, Tennessee,

who’s writing the story and where they

on social media.”

with a combined perspective of culture

his second book, which explores the US

terms of how media perceived what I do

and whereabouts on the map of Italy people

come from? “To be honest, it doesn’t really

race should write food stories about their

chicken,” he says. Turner is completing

comfortable discussing cooking to cuisson

other category, but it’s fair to say I’m just as

African-American food writer Adrian Miller I arguing that only people of a certain

on me as a white guy writing on fried

Victor Liong says his feelings have changed.

But to the industry, does it really matter

for National Public Radio, he says: “Am

delicacy of taking on someone else’s story.

helluva lot more Asian restaurants than any

the ick factor is real.

In a beautifully articulated piece by

There are some chef/writers such as

would understand me and what I do

Khanh Nguyen of Melbourne’s Sunda.

And on whether media’s encouragement

to try something new has any impact; “To

be honest … social media probably drives consumer choices [for Sunda], more than what’s written in the media.”

And when contemplating the current food between media, restaurants, chefs and

producers, it’s easy to both oversimplify and complicate when it comes to our

shared feeling of dissatisfaction with the

status quo. Be that as it may, it’s time more than ever to encourage a more inclusive and balanced perspective wherever we can. We have to believe that the way forward is with skill, knowledge and

respect, no matter who you are, or what you’re having for lunch. ■

August 2019 | 15

COLUMN // Diversity in food writing

When contemplating the current food landscape and the intertwined relationship between media, restaurants, chefs and producers, it’s easy to both oversimplify and complicate when it comes to our shared feeling of dissatisfaction with the status quo.

BUSINESS PROFILE // Burnt Ends

Burning Man Chef Dave Pynt is slaying the game at his Singapore restaurant, Burnt Ends.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros DAVE PYNT IS the highest-ranking

To put it simply, the past few years have

pretty-plating kind of restaurant.”

his “shitty little barbecue restaurant” in

restaurant has accumulated some serious

Ends, and Pynt tends to steer clear of the

Choice Award in 2017 and Burnt Ends

of house team take care of them like the

Australian chef in the world. Burnt Ends, Singapore, clocked in at no.59 on the

extended version of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list — a high for any chef.

When quizzed about his reaction to the

news, he responded with the following: “I

haven’t looked at the entire list to find out,

been great for Burnt Ends. The six-year-old accolades with Pynt receiving the Chefs’

earning its first Michelin star in 2018. The

restaurant also snagged the no.10 position on the Asia’s 50 Best list.

So what are the real perks of these

but that’s good to know.”

accolades beyond recognition? Lists and

the event, but he skipped the legendary

and an increase of media attention, but

Pynt’s reply says it all. The chef attended

after party to get back to his young family.

He’s laser focused on running Burnt Ends, three Meatsmith locations and now The Ledge in the Maldives. But he did say

this: “It’s pretty surreal to be honest. It’s incredible that there a lot of people out there who like our restaurant.”

The chef sat down with Hospitality

to talk about the weight of stars and

rankings, the nuances of operating in

Singapore and why he just wants his staff to be better than he is.

16 | Hospitality

stars naturally lead to spikes in bookings it’s not all glitz and glory. Awards tend to

raise diner expectations, and some people

Burnt Ends is unapologetically Burnt

odd unhappy customer and let his front

professionals they are. “My tolerance level for that kind of thing is very low,” he says.

“Everyone is entitled to what they see

as value for money and what we should deliver [in relation to] what we charge

and the accolades we’ve won. But in my opinion, we do what we do. Take it or leave it — you don’t have to be here.”

don’t realise Michelin stars don’t equate to

There are a number of commonalities shared

it belongs in a gallery. Pynt’s experienced

in the world. The most pressing? Staffing.

white tablecloths and food that looks like this issue at Burnt Ends. “Every now

and then, there are people who don’t

understand what we do,” he says. “Having a Michelin star, I think some customers want things a little bit more prim and

proper, and we’re not. We’re loud, we’re

noisy, we work with ash and we’re not a

by restaurants, no matter where they exist

While Pynt says he doesn’t struggle to find

workers — the team is now three times the

size as it was when Burnt Ends opened — he

knows it’s an issue for his peers. “We have an amazing team and a lot of them have been

with us for a long time, but I know it’s a big problem in our industry,” he says.

BUSINESS PROFILE // Burnt Ends

“How good do you want to be and what’s our role in pushing staff to be the best they can be...?”

– Dave Pynt The solution is glaringly obvious

— make working conditions better so

more people are interested in long-term careers in hospitality. But we’re just not

there yet. Long hours and high-pressure environments are part and parcel of the current landscape.

However, many restaurants are taking

things into their own hands and evaluating their workplaces. Pynt and his team are in the process of implementing practices to

create a better environment for employees.

Smoked quail eggs with caviar

Steak frites

“Something we have spoken about recently is, ‘How do we make our staffs’ lives

better?’ We haven’t answered the question yet, and we’re not going to be able to do it overnight, but it’s something we want to do.”

There’s also another side to the coin: Do

‘relaxed’ kitchens have the same output

as those that thrive on pushing the limits?

The jury is out. “There’s the flip side of

never being an elite athlete unless you train really f**king hard,” says Pynt. “How good do you want to be and what’s our role in

in hospitality can take on workers and is

business, especially with the launch of

maintaining those who see it as a regular

his team. “We work really insane hours;

at the Waldorf Astoria. “The cross-training

pushing staff to be the best they can be while job? Some people want to be the next best

chef and others want work–life balance — it’s about finding out what the individual wants.”

Just as staffing is a global issue for the

industry, so too is mental health. But Pynt

points out that it isn’t limited to hospitality — every sector is impacted. “I think the

big movement has to be not what we are

going to do, but what we can do to better

understand and help people communicate when they’re not feeling great,” he says.

Pynt is well aware of the toll a career

vigilant when it comes to the wellbeing of the pressure is high,” says the chef. “But if

someone has an issue in our kitchen and we see them having a bad day, we talk about it. We’ve had issues in the past and we

are proactive and aware. We take it really

f**cking seriously. We spend more time with these people than our families. If we can’t

look after them, how are we meant to take care of our own families or our guests?”

With five venues under the Burnt Ends collective, consistent staff training has

become an important component of the

Pynt’s first international location, The Ledge program is going to be the backbone of

how we move forward,” says the chef. “So if you’re a new head chef, you train with us at Burnt Ends for three months, and if you’re

a sous chef, manager or assistant manager, you come here for one month.”

Pynt estimates he’s on-site at The Ledge

twice a year with his team travelling to

the Maldives six times on an annual basis.

The senior team at The Ledge travel to Singapore for one week each year for

additional training. “If you add it all up, there’s a lot of touchy-feely time which

August 2019 | 17

BUSINESS PROFILE // Burnt Ends 75-day dry-aged Wagyu

“We’re loud, we’re noisy, we work with ash and Grissini taramasalata

we’re not a pretty-plating kind of restaurant.” – Dave Pynt

is important for us to identify strengths and

and Australia, it’s an adjustment. “I was talking

our culture,” says Pynt.

importing everything,” says Pynt. “In London,

weaknesses and immerse their senior team in Inter-company training also extends to

Meatsmith, which Pynt says is now running like a well-oiled machine. “We do a lot of training with those guys; sometimes we send our team down

there to help them or [vice versa],” he says. “We

have a good team in place there now and I’m very open with letting them get on with it — I don’t have the time or interest to micromanage.”

Pynt says the expansion of Meatsmith has

prompted him to improve his own communication skills, which has allowed him to grow as a The team

Burnt Ends

put 25 new

is no.59

dishes on

on The

the menu

World’s 50

last year

Best list

manager while empowering his employees.

“One of the guys who worked at Burnt Ends for

received

Burnt Ends

a Michelin

customers

star in

are regulars

2018

accept it. I can get two seasons of black truffle and asparagus and wild trout from Norway. If you don’t limit yourself, you can get so many

more amazing products to serve your guests.”

And while Pynt says you can get whatever

you want whenever you want, you have to be organised. “Ordering is the biggest challenge because you have to indent five days; the planning is challenging.”

Ends portfolio is on the table if the conditions

meetings once a month. It’s more of a mentor role

me’. If they leave and they’re better than me, I’m really f**king happy. ”

restaurants, but further expansion of the Burnt are right. “The Maldives is like a beachside

version of Burnt Ends, so if we can do that with

a partner overseas, 100 per cent we can replicate it,” he says. “But it’s not, ‘Let’s take over the

world and watch it go to shit. We have to get it right and put systems in place that work.”

On the day of Hospitality’s interview, the

Singapore is known as a country that has

kitchen was at the tail end of a 13-day stretch.

from Japan, vegetables come from Europe and

this point, but not this team. The chef uses the

access to the best of the best. Fish is flown in

the concept of seasonality isn’t rammed down

your throat like it is in Australia. In Singapore, everything is in season all the time. But as a

chef who’s worked in countries such as the UK 18 | Hospitality

Singapore, it doesn’t exist. You can fight it or

have conversations every few weeks and I go to

start with me: ‘I just want you to be better than per cent of

you’re forced to change up your menu, but in

Australia’s top chef has his hands full with five

and I can almost leave him alone,” he says. “We

the best they can be. I say to a lot of the staff that Burnt Ends

everything was super local and seasonal and

four years has taken over one of the Meatsmiths

rather than a boss and just nurturing them to be

60-70

to Daniel Humm and he was asking how I find

Most people would be reaching exhaustion by word ‘slayer’ a lot to describe his staff, but it’s

perhaps most applicable to the chef himself. “I

like working and I enjoy it,” he says. “I wouldn’t come to work if I didn’t like it.” ■

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DRINKS // In-house collaboration

It takes two

Tayim’s Little Ramos

Food and drink are a natural pair, but bartenders and chefs have only just begun to explore each other’s domains.

WORDS Madeline Woolway THE LINE BETWEEN restaurant and bar

casual and depends on our schedules,”

“The one they use in the bar needs to be

staff often remain intact. While there

down in the office, doing some ordering

Ultimately, it’s the same recipe with some

has blurred, but the boundaries between are logical reasons for the divide — they are two different worlds with different

demands, after all — there are rewards for

says Ramirez. “It could be just us sitting together for the next day or having a casual conversation.”

At other times, it becomes the focus

rolled out, so it’s thin and not so intense. changes to the final steps, so it doesn’t stretch the kitchen team.”

those willing to collaborate.

of staff meals, which bring chefs and

And when chefs don’t have the capacity, they

Xander Ramirez, bar manager at Tayim in

“[We] talk about flavours or ideas when

reason. “If they want to come in and use the

Sydney’s The Rocks says time is the biggest barrier. Kitchens and bars tend to keep different hours, and so do their staff.

There are physical constraints, too,

bartenders together in an ideal world. we’re all sitting down,” says Ramirez.

“We talk about where we want to take the direction of Tayim’s beverage and food.”

especially at bigger establishments. “In my

experience, you don’t have the opportunity to get to know each other,” says Ramirez.

“You’re always going to be tucked away at

the bar or on the floor selling cocktails and

the head chef is going to be in the kitchen.”

Time and physical barriers are

one thing, language and culture are another. Ultimately, the former can

open the kitchen up to the bar team — within kitchen outside of service time, they can,”

says Fitzsimmons. The chef has also passed

unneeded equipment on to the bar team, too, facilitating even more experimentation.

In return, the bar team has stepped up

“Chef Ran has changed the way I understand a cuisine I don’t know much about.”

– Xander Ramirez

to the challenge. “They know how to make their own caramels and all that sort of

stuff,” says Fitzsimmons. “They’ve come to

me with a couple of things I’ve never done before, fruit roll-ups for example, which I

could research and learn to do, but they’ve had a go and mastered it.”

Green Moustache bar supervisor

be accommodated if the two teams

At Green Moustache, the bar team come

Marcella Guilfoyle developed a fruit roll-up

dependent on leadership. Ramirez has

they can help. Requests have varied from

equipment such as a dehydrator.

are willing. Success in this respect is

established a rapport with Tayim head chef Ran Kimelfeld based on a mutual

to the chefs with ideas, who see how honeycomb to fruit roll-ups.

Head chef Pete Fitzsimmons is honest

goal. “Chef Ran and I share an ideology,”

about what his team can achieve given the

offering to be as premium as possible and

the kitchen’s workload to an unreasonable

he says. “We want the beverage and food as authentic as possible.”

Surprisingly, the solution is to take a less

structured approach. “Our process is quite 20 | Hospitality

demands of service. Some requests can take level. Others, such as a honeycomb garnish,

recipe and other garnishes, using kitchen

However, she’s quick to point out a good

relationship between kitchen and bar staff

is what’s allowed the team to learn. “Open communication needs to be there so when someone needs help they can ask for it.”

are no problem. “I use honeycomb in a

The results speak for themselves.

naturally aerates and puffs up,” he says.

Ramirez have been able to create a more

dessert, [but] it’s a different style; one that

By working together, Kimelfeld and

A strawberry roll-up made with

cocktail list and the menu. “Chef Ran

peppercorns and lemon juice makes for

cuisine I don’t know much about,”

when paired with Glenfiddich and

has changed the way I understand a says Ramirez. “He’s able to explain

flavour combinations in a way that I can understand. It’s almost like he’s

giving his past experiences when he describes flavours.”

The stories give Ramirez a greater

understanding of the ingredients he’s

working with and the pair are able to

create an experience where cocktails and

food truly complement each other. In some cases, Kimelfeld has even taught Ramirez

an interesting combination of flavours

strawberry tonic. Honeycomb sweetens the smoky flavours of the After Hours, which features Zacapa 23, Laphroaig

and salted caramel. And a salty garnish of air-dried beef — courtesy of the kitchen — and maraschino cherry

balances the bitter-sweet symphony

of the Not a Negroni, which combines Woodford Reserve, Amaro Nonino, Averna and bitters.

Essentially, more complex, chef-like

techniques to help incorporate flavours.

garnishes help the bar team develop

emblematic of the relationship. A twist

drinks with a multitude of qualities.

Ramirez says the Little Ramos is

on one of his favourite classics, a Ramos

more intriguing ways to infuse their

Gin Fizz, the drink pays homage to

The benefits of a tightknit venue are

that suits its environment. “I incorporated

Green Moustache have been able to up

cocktail canon while serving up a libation fermented chilli, which is used in our

dishes,” he says. Kimelfeld also taught Ramirez how to make the ingredient.

Inspiration from the kitchen has

allowed Green Moustache bartenders

to get creative with garnishes, leading

to more complex cocktails and a unique drinking experience.

evident in the outcome — Tayim and

their cocktail games thanks to kitchen collaboration.

Given the effect on both culture and

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drinks is undeniably positive, a close

relationship between kitchen and bar

should be the norm. “Guests can benefit from a good relationship [between the

two],” says Ramirez. “Unfortunately, it’s not common enough.” ■

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DRINKS // In-house collaboration

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FEATURE // World’s 50 Best Restaurants Daniela Soto-Innes and Massimo Bottura

Simply the best?

Hospitality attended The World’s 50 Best Restaurants in Singapore — so was it all it was cracked up to be?

WORDS Annabelle Cloros THE 2019 EDITION of The World’s 50

the days where he would yell and scream

employs ‘older’ employees and encourages

anything the industry had ever seen

mentors and I let myself be angry in the

an industry fuelled by a churn and burn

Best Restaurants was slated to be unlike before. A host of new rules were ushered in to create a program that spruiked

buzzwords including ‘gender-balanced’, ‘diversity’ and ‘inclusivity’. But was it

really that different from the Euro-centric iterations of years gone by?

Hospitality was on the ground in

Singapore to attend pre- and post- event press conferences, the 50 Best Talks —

featuring our own Tetsuya Wakuda — and of course, the coveted awards ceremony.

The mania kicked off with 50 Best Talks

in his kitchen. “I emulated some of my

kitchen and I treated the cooks and staff poorly, screaming at them,” he said. But

the Le Bernardin chef decided to make a change and started studying Buddhism, meeting with a Tibetan monk once a

of kitchen culture from hostile to holistic along with gender and age equality.

Ripert kicked things off and recalled

22 | Hospitality

in these kinds of kitchens.”

After the Hisa Franko chef won World’s

media revolved around gender in the

receiving and translate them into a secular message for the team. They seem to be

responding well to the logic I’m sharing. I lead by example.”

On the topic of women in the industry, Ros

kitchen who had told her they were planning

most memorable revolving around the shift

looks like there is an age limit for working

the teachings and take the messages I’m

Soto-Innes, Eric Ripert, Ana Ros, Massimo interesting topics were raised, with the

the team [are] under 30,” she said. “It

Best Female Chef in 2017, she said a

day I study,” he said. “I try to absorb

recalled the countless conversations she’s

Bottura and Tetsuya Wakuda. Some

mentality. “[In] most kitchens, almost all

week. “Every day I meditate and every

which featured a panel discussion on

the topic of kitchen karma with Daniela

work–life balance, it’s not the norm in

had with young female chefs working in her on quitting cooking because they wanted

to have children. Ros said she was met with

shock and surprise when she told them “you can do it here”; proving flexible workplaces are few and far between in hospitality.

While Ros runs a restaurant that

lot of the conversations she had with

industry, but stressed age is also a point

of contention in the industry that impacts everyone. “How about equality of age?” she asked. “Show me a kitchen capable of having someone who is 45. We have a woman in the kitchen who is 55 and

I look at her and say, ‘How the hell can

I make this kitchen environment better for you because I want you to be here’.

Soto-Innes was quick to jump in with

the comment “I don’t think age matters”, which resulted in a debate between the two chefs. Soto-Innes, who was named

2019 Best Female Chef, said her New York

FEATURE // World’s 50 Best Restaurants

Eric Ripert and Ana Ros

Massimo Bottura

restaurant Cosme has a team comprising

50 per cent of women over the age of 50,

but Ros was quick to point out Cosme is a

blue diamond in this instance. “I’m talking about people over 50 who want to retire with this job,” said Ros. “In Europe, it’s

almost impossible. I can tell you that and I stand behind my words.”

All in all, an interesting conversation

that reiterated the issues we are

experiencing in Australia are very much present on a global level.

When William Reed announced Singapore would be the host city of The World’s 50

Best Restaurants, the move received high

Tetsuya Wakuda and speakers

praise from the global culinary community.

Not only did it mark the first time the

ceremony and its associated events would

Best Female Chef in 2019, echoed the

beginning for the program.

in Asia was a much-needed change. “The

be held in Asia, but it heralded a new The day before the awards, a pre-

event press conference was held at the National Gallery, with William Reed

sentiment, and said hosting the ceremony focus has moved to this part of the world,” said the chef.

Reed also took the opportunity to

group managing director Charles Reed

introduce the Best of the Best — a hall

Park’s Daniel Humm, Gaa’s Garima Arora,

restaurants. In a nutshell, inductees to the

in attendance alongside Eleven Madison Odette’s Julien Royer, El Celler de Can

Roca’s Joan Roca and Singapore Tourism Board’s Melissa Ow.

Reed said Singapore was “an appropriate

of fame of sorts for former number one

Best of the Best will not be included on

future lists — unless they pull a Noma and move their restaurant.

Humm is one of now seven inductees,

setting” for the awards given its culinary

and said the program allowed a greater

“hawker to fine dining favourites” and

making the top rankings given the usual

landscape covering everything from

described the 2019 awards as the “most extensive ever”, with each of the 50

restaurants on the list represented at the ceremony. Arora, who was named Asia’s

“[In] most kitchens, almost all the team [are] under 30.

It looks like there is an age limit for working in these kinds of kitchens.”

– Ana Ros

number of restaurants to have a shot at suspects are out of the picture. “With

these changes, we’ll see a broader field of restaurants and chefs step onto the international stage and it’s humbling

August 2019 | 23

FEATURE // World’s 50 Best Restaurants

One to watch Lido 84 Gardone Riviera, Italy

Icon Award José Andres

Best Pastry Chef Jessica Préalpato

World’s Best Female Chef Daniela Soto-Innes

Art of Hospitality Den Tokyo, Japan

Chefs’ Choice Alain Passard

Sustainable Restaurant Schloss Schauenstein

Julia and Mauro Colagreco

Zaiyu Hasegawa

to be able to contribute to that transformation,” he said.

“Food is all about community and expanding that will only strengthen our impact.”

In the lead up to the event, Time ran a piece which alleged

the Best of the Best was a program spearheaded by a group of high-profile chefs, including Massimo Bottura, who

voiced concerns over ‘drops’ in the list and the effects they

experienced personally and professionally, e.g. loss of status among peers and declines in bookings. However, World’s

50 Best Group Editor William Drew said that while William

Reed had consulted with chefs, the Best of the Best had been in the works for some time.

The awards ceremony was held at the Marina Bay Sands

Singapore, with hoards of chefs and restaurateurs donning their red scarves in anticipation for the new no.1.

In honour of main sponsor S.Pellegrino’s 120st

anniversary, the program extended the list from 50 to 120

for the first time, with an additional 70 restaurants ranked.

The extended list was especially newsworthy for Australians, who arguably saw two of our top restaurants, Brae and

Attica, clock in at 101 and 84 respectively. Both restaurants experienced significant drops compared to 2018, which led

many to believe Peter Gilmore’s Quay — which ranked in at 95 in 2017 and was excluded last year due to its closure — or Jock Zonfrillo’s Orana would make an appearance.

But as the list ticked over, it became apparent there

would be no Australian restaurants on the list. How could

this be? Australia’s culinary scene is up there with the best which leads to the most logical reason — we’re simply too 24 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // World’s 50 Best Restaurants

Top 50 1. Mirazur (Menton, France) 2. Noma (Copenhagen, Denmark) 3. Asador Etxebarri (Atxondo, Spain) 4. Gaggan (Bangkok, Thailand) 5. Geranium (Copenhagen, Denmark) 6. Central (Lima, Peru) 7. Mugaritz (San Sebastian, Spain) 8. Arpège (Paris, France) 9. Disfrutar (Barcelona, Spain) 10. Maido (Lima, Peru) 11. Den (Tokyo, Japan) 12. Pujol (Mexico City, Mexico) 13. White Rabbit (Moscow, Russia) 14. Azurmendi (Larrabetzu, Spain) 15. Septime (Paris, France) 16. Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée (Paris, France) Eric Ripert

far away for judges and voters. A trip

by Asador Etxebarri (Spain),

one. Here’s hoping we have better

(Copenhagen). Spain had the highest

Down Under is unfortunately a long luck next year and the airfares continue to drop.

Overall, 26 countries made up the top

50 with France’s Mirazur — which also secured three Michelin stars earlier in

the year — snagging the no.1 position.

It marked the first time a restaurant in France topped the list, and was

especially noteworthy as it is run by a

non-French chef; Mauro Colagreco is of Argentinean and Italian background.

Colagreco described the win as a

dream during the post-event press

Gaggan (Thailand) and Geranium

number of restaurants in the top 50

with a total of seven with the US coming in at six and France coming in at five.

Mexico (Pujol, no.12; Quintonil, no.24)

and South America were also prominent in the list, with restaurants from

Colombia (Leo, no.49); Peru (Central,

no.6; Maido, no.10); Brazil (A Casa do Porco, no.39); Chile (Borago, no.26) and Argentina (Don Julio, no.34) all

ranking in. There were a total of 12 new entries, meaning the majority of the list comprised return restaurants.

conference, and reflected on how far he

While the 2019 edition of The World’s

with a team of three in the kitchen and

around gender equality, the program

has come in 13 years when he started two on the floor. “We know how hard everybody has worked so I’m happy,”

he said. When asked how he felt about Mirazur being named as the number

one restaurant in the world in front of his peers, he used the word ‘pressure’.

“It’s so nice, but it’s a big responsibility,” he said. “I worked for [chefs like] Alain Ducasse — all these chefs inspire me a

lot. I will never forget [this] in my life.”

Controversially, Noma (Copenhagen) ranked in at number two and was

also the highest new entry followed 26 | Hospitality

50 Best Restaurants promised big things missed the mark. There were only five restaurants with female chefs in the

top 50 — the same as 2018, and while the presence of restaurants in South America (six) and Asia (seven) was

promising, 26 of the top 50 are based in Europe.

The introduction of the Best of the

Best should make for an interesting

few years, and once Noma is inducted (my bet is 2020), it will open up

space on the list for a greater variety

of restaurants from — hopefully — a greater variety of countries. ■

17. Steirereck (Vienna, Austria) 18. Odette (Singapore) 19. Twins Garden (Moscow, Russia) 20. Tickets (Barcelona, Spain) 21. Frantzén (Stockholm, Sweden) 22. Narisawa (Tokyo, Japan) 23. Cosme (New York City, USA) 24. Quintonil (Mexico City, Mexico) 25. Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen (Paris, France) 26. B oragó (Santiago, Chile) 27. The Clove Club (London, United Kingdom) 28. Blue Hill at Stone Barns (Pocantico Hills, USA) 29. Piazza Duomo (Alba, Italy) 30. Elkano (Getaria, Spain) 31. Le Calandre (Rubano, Italy) 32. Nerua (Bilbao, Spain) 33. Lyle’s (London, United Kingdom) 34. Don Julio (Buenos Aires, Argentina) 35. Atelier Crenn (San Francisco, USA) 36. Le Bernardin (New York City, USA) 37. Alinea (Chicago, USA) 38. Hiša Franko (Kobarid, Slovenia) 39. A Casa do Porco (São Paulo, Brazil) 40. Restaurant Tim Raue (Berlin, Germany) 41. The Chairman (Hong Kong) 42. Belcanto (Lisbon, Portugal) 43. Hof Van Cleve (Kruishoutem, Belgium) 44. Test Kitchen (Cape Town, South Africa) 45. Sühring (Bangkok, Thailand) 46. De Librije (Zwolle, Netherlands) 47. Benu (San Francisco, USA) 48. Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet (Shanghai, China) 49. Leo (Bogotá, Colombia) 50. Schloss Schauenstein (Fürstenau, Switzerland)

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Tuesday 24 September 2019 11am – 4pm Sydney Showground, Sydney Olympic Park

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FEATURE // Pork

Edwina Beveridge

Australian Story Australian pork producers are a cut above the rest when it comes to quality, environmental management and animal welfare.

WORDS Madeline Woolway PORK IS A favourite for consumers and chefs alike. The versatile protein can be

processed into a number of products from

practices that make our homegrown pigs worthy of more market share.

fresh pork to ham, bacon and a plethora of

The majority of people don’t know where

In 2015–2016, the local pork industry

the level of awareness varies. There’s a 50

charcuterie and smallgoods.

contributed more than $5.2 billion to Australia’s GDP and it supports more

than 36,000 full-time equivalent jobs.

All in all, it’s a valuable sector — and

that’s despite the challenges it faces from

their pork is from. According to Haydon,

28 | Hospitality

$14 per hundred grams.

The reality is more than 80 per cent of

kilograms of imported pork arrives in the

imported meat.

The lack of knowledge can be forgiven.

be produced in Australia. Vague country

General Manager Peter Haydon about the

can the prosciutto that costs upwards of

if the bacon they’re slinging is made from

been in the trade for 20-plus years knows

leading pork producers, Blantyre Farms’

Pork’s Judy Croagh, and Australian Pork’s

cafe? It can come from anywhere. So too

the ham and bacon sold in Australia is

While processed goods can be legally

Edwina Beveridge and Western Plains

with a big breakfast at the neighbourhood

per cent chance the local butcher who’s

international competition.

Hospitality talks to two of the country’s

restaurant menus. The pile of bacon served

imported. As of March 2018, 3.1 million

country each week; that’s $12.96 million worth of pork products.

Unsurprisingly, Australian producers

imported, all fresh pork sold here must

want a slice of the pie.

of origin labelling in supermarkets only

For the most part, there’s one reason

there are no mandatory labelling laws for

have come to dominate the domestic

compounds the confusion. On top of that,

imported products such as ham and bacon

tends to be more expensive for a number of reasons, all of them worthy of the higher cost.

To begin with, the quality tends to be

better. “Australian pork, whether it’s ham

or bacon or fresh, comes from around the corner,” says Haydon. “It doesn’t need to

be frozen for weeks or potentially months.”

“If you’ve got quality, an innovative farmer, an environmental benefit and a welfare benefit, then you’ve got a really powerful provenance story.”

– Peter Haydon

There’s also an opportunity for

smallgoods suppliers or restaurants keen

to produce their own charcuterie to work directly with farmers.

Croagh has worked closely with

restaurants since 2000, developing

relationships with chefs around Victoria.

Now, Western Plains Pork supplies Salt Kitchen Charcuterie with female pigs grown in a dedicated paddock to a

specific size especially for the providore.

The partnership means Salt Kitchen

Charcuterie is able to procure pigs that

are more than double the normal weight with more muscle and a higher fat

content. “They’re [also] outside working

their muscles a bit more, which is good for charcuterie,” explains Croagh.

“Average consumers don’t choose stuff

the producer and stock handler to ensure

These relationships are mutually

just for [provenance],” he says. “It’s got to

quality. “Australian outlets are much more

But if you’ve got quality, an innovative

their pigs indoors, has a “little bit more”

welfare benefit, then you’ve got a really

to Beveridge. “The sheds have insulated

beneficial, and not just in terms of

important to Australian pork farmers

than overseas outlets,” says Haydon. “We don’t export much, so certainty of supply is much higher if you have a relationship with an Australian producer.”

Blantyre Farms produces an impressive

number of animals. With 2000 sow

taste great and be good value for money. farmer, an environmental benefit and a powerful provenance story.”

People can enjoy what they’re eating and

feel good about it — most are happy to pay for that experience.

piggery, there are between 22,000–23,000

Australia has strict laws regulating the

goes into fresh pork because the overseas

Practice for the Welfare of Animals (2007) —

cheaper than us,” says Beveridge.

with all levels of industry as well as

pigs on-site at any one time. “Most of it market can produce [processed goods]

Ideally, more manufacturers would buy

Australian pork allowing producers to increase their yield.

Provenance has become a pivotal selling

treatment of animals. The Model Code of

warm in winter and cool in summer,” she

says. “They have automatically ventilated

blinds that run the full length of the sheds.

If the thermostat says it’s getting too

warm, they’ll open up to let air in; if it’s too cold, they close up.”

The sheds are quite open with a limited

to run around,” says Beveridge. “I’m very

responsibilities involved in caring for pigs. It covers everything from their housing, food and water to special needs.

The majority of Australian pig farmers

more than 80 per cent of pigs, no matter

environment can impact decision-making.

walls and ceilings that keep the room

regulators, RSPCA and scientists outlines the

environment. Haydon admits quality is a key but benefits for animal welfare and the

technology than most farmers, according

number of pens. “[Pigs] might be in a

voluntarily work to standards higher than

driver when it comes to consumer choice,

Blantyre Farms, which houses all of

Pigs (the Code), developed in consultation

point, with diners increasingly interested in the treatment of animals and the

the welfare of pigs.

those required by law, which accounts for the farming system they’re raised under.

The indoor, outdoor bred and free-range

systems all rely on the husbandry skills of

pen with 200 others and they have room comfortable with having them indoors.

The pigs are protected from the elements, but they’ve got fresh air. We can also control the effluent.”

Slatted flooring allows manure to drop

through the floor, which keeps the pens — and the pigs — clean.

For Croagh, the decision to operate under an outdoor bred system was

August 2019 | 29

FEATURE // Pork

market — they’re cheaper. Australian pork

FEATURE // Pork

The majority of Australian pig farmers voluntarily work to

already comparatively low environmental

standards higher than those required by law. personal. “All our breeding stock live

outside,” she says. “The piglets are born

outside and then move into eco shelters.

I think it’s a nice environment.”

Although the animals are free to move

around outside, the eco shelters offer

“It’s an intensive system,” says Croagh.

“We have a lot of people working here and

the stock are checked all the time. We have automatic feeders in the pre-sowing.”

Beveridge also makes use of automatic

feeding technology. “The pigs have food and water in front of them constantly,” she says. cent of the ham and bacon sold in

Australia’s GDP

Australia is made

in 2015–16.

using imported pork

“Most of that is computer controlled, so you can dial into it and see that it’s working.”

The use of feeding technology offers

producers the opportunity to maintain their stock’s health through a closely

3.1 million kilograms of imported pork

is produced

products arrive in

here

Australia each week

manure is channelled into a 15-megalitre dam, where the biogas released by

the effluent is captured and refined

into methane that is then used to run generators that power the farm.

and free-range systems to collect manure a nine-year paddock lifestyle system,

resulting in a different but equally as

positive impact on the environment. Pigs are regularly rotated to new paddocks,

preventing the build up of any nutrients that could compromise the water table.

“[Our breeding stock] will start in one

location and will be set up there for two to three years, then we soil test and they’re

moved to a fresh site,” says Croagh. “Then the farmer — we lease a lot of land as

well — comes in and crops, utilising all the nutrients the pigs have left behind.

It can be sustainable within the whole farm plan.”

Manure is also collected from open-

they want, while nutritionists make sure

before being spread out onto the paddocks.

Fast reproduction systems and low

feed conversion make pigs a relatively

sustainable source of protein. Continual research and development has seen the Australian pork industry capitalise on

the potential to further reduce emissions.

Currently, the industry is working to

meet an on-farm goal of 1 kilogram CO2

(equivalent) per kilogram of pork produced.

One way Blantyre Farms is mitigating

their impact — and the impact of our food

they are weaned, which is left to compost

Worthwhile as they are, practices such

as those followed at Blantyre Farms and Western Plains mean Australian pork

is often more expensive than imported products. But, as Haydon puts it, the decrease in margins might not be as

diabolical as it seems, particularly when it comes to processed goods. “There’s

typically not that much ham or bacon in a meal,” he says.

A 20 per cent premium for Australian

system at large — is through the use of

pork products, he explains, will mostly

redirected 13,500 tonnes of food waste

cent bump in menu prices. And if it’s

food waste products. Beveridge says they into feed for the pigs last year. “All those

products could have ended up in landfill, creating methane gas,” she says.

30 | Hospitality

mitigating environmental impacts. The

ended straw huts that house piglets once

their diets are balanced.

Australia

it’s supported progress when it comes to

controlled diet. Automation means pigs

have access to food and water whenever

All fresh pork in

does more than keep the animals clean,

like this, Western Plains has developed

an absence of tech or intervention, though.

contributed more

The ability to collect all the effluent

of year, when it’s really wet and cold, they An outdoor bred system doesn’t mean

than $5.2 billion to

impact of pigs.

While it can be difficult for outside bred

like to stay inside,” says Croagh.

More than 80 per

innovations aimed at further reducing the

protection when needed. Essentially, the

pigs are able to act on instinct. “This time

The pork industry

Housing their pigs indoors allows the

Blantyre Farms team to explore a range of

likely lead to the need for just a 4 per

good for diners, pigs and the environment alike, buying Australian pork is worth a potentially small increase to costs. ■

BACK ROW: • Amy Hamilton - Liberté, WA • Emma McCaskill - SA • Nick Holloway - Nu Nu, QLD • Matt Stone - Oakridge, VIC

• Damien Pignolet - Industry Legend, NSW • Troy Crisante - Quay, NSW • Jo Barrett - Oakridge, VIC • Louis Tikaram - E.P. & L.P., Los Angeles, USA

FRONT ROW:

It promises to be a very happy, prosperous and extremely delicious “YEAR of the PIG” for these talented PorkStars. Pork allows chefs to explore and indulge their imaginations like no other meat. Be a PorkStar. And get some Pork on your menu.

Matt Fowles and his family

FEATURE // Regional pairings

Better together FOR CHEFS AND sommeliers, one question is always front of mind: How can we bring out the best in both food and wine?

Of course, there’s more than one answer.

Food and wine pairings can flow from

a number of strategies, but ‘what grows together, goes together’ is driving the

agenda in restaurants and cellar doors.

Hospitality speaks to three operators who are taking the ethos to new heights.

At Fowles Wine in the Strathbogie

Ranges region of Victoria, local is part of the day-to-day operations. Owner Matt

ingredients from around the region.

Over on the west coast, there’s Arimia

wines; an off-grid winery and restaurant

that draws the bulk of its ingredients from a 135-acre property in Margaret River.

With 7.5 hectares under vine, six dams, a winter creek and 18 beehives, owner and farmer Ann Spencer produces a bounty on-site, from trout, marron and pigs to

vegetables. As a result, chef and business partner Evan Hayter’s menu is a true reflection of the locality.

For Stokehouse St Kilda, it’s about

bringing a local approach to the city.

vegetables and slaughter the animals.

suppliers, the Melbourne restaurant

32 | Hospitality

WORDS Madeline Woolway

The majority of the menu is created using

Fowles and the team, including head chef Adele Aitken, make the wine, grow the

Most iconic food and wine pairings are tied to the adage ‘what grows together, goes together’, but how are contemporary Australian venues reimagining the maxim?

Known for its close relationship with

“For people with a heightened awareness around food provenance, matching local wine to food is the ultimate from a philosophical point of view.”

– Matt Fowles

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FEATURE // Regional pairings

“It’s more to emphasise that you need not look elsewhere when there’s something really special happening close by.” – Gavin Cremming Stokehouse St Kilda group sommelier Gavin Cremming

recently wrapped up a dinner series called What Grows Together Goes

Together, which showcased produce from the Macedon Ranges and the Victorian High Country.

Interpretations of what grows together, goes together are plentiful. It can sum

up the pairing of seasonal produce, the terroir behind local delicacies or the

traditions behind a particular cuisine.

When it comes to food and wine pairings, it’s the last mention that tends to prevail.

However, it’s widely agreed there is something behind terroir.

“There will be characteristics to produce

grown in the same environment, which

can support food and wine matches,” says

Fowles. “In our case, with the cool climate and limited fertility of the Strathbogie

Ranges, we grow wine and food with great intensity of flavour. Partly due to soil,

but also from the cool climate and longer

growing times — it gives the produce time to accumulate flavour.”

Stokehouse group sommelier Gavin

grows and lives off the same nutrients in

the soil and adapts to the same climate.”

The opportunity to explore the impact

of different environmental factors on

rearing of pigs and certain varietals. “The

cold climate areas and high altitude areas,” says Hansford. “I wanted to see how that affected things; to see what each region

has to offer and how each region differs

complementing food and wine through the high fat content of pork is a natural match

for the full-bodied, high-acid varietals that are cultivated in the region,” he says.

Back in Australia, pairings have developed

from each other.”

with a little more manipulation. Wine has

While the concept of terroir is often

while our food culture has emerged through

evident in wines, it shouldn’t be taken

too literally when it comes to produce.

evolved in line with changes to the climate, different waves of migration.

The effects of soil and climate likely

A match that elevates is still the

it’s more a case of growing produce that

food from the surrounding region is

won’t result in different flavour profiles;

makes sense for the region. For example,

particular grape varietals grow well under

certain conditions, and the same is true for produce more generally.

“They grow in certain seasons, and

certain soil structures for a reason, so

there’s definitely a link there,” says Hayter.

such as body, texture and different

34 | Hospitality

Cremming says Piedmont, Italy,

Stokehouse. “Victoria is massive, [with]

Hansford to host the dining series at

he says. “I think the same principle exists area. I guess the idea is that everything

result in a happy marriage.

is an example of a region producing

Contemporary standards dictate matches

for produce grown or reared in the same

winemaking and culinary traditions often

produce is what drove head chef Ollie

Cremming articulates a similar sentiment.

“In the wine world, we talk about terroir,”

way of convenience, but the coevolution of

are made with reference to characteristics components of flavour including sugar, acid and tannins. Historically, pairings come by

objective, but pairing wines with

driven more directly by philosophy — it’s as much about sustainability and storytelling as it is custom.

“Sustainability is important to us as

farmers; carefully grown produce always tastes better,” says Fowles.

At Arimia, what grows together, goes

together isn’t about the principles of

pairing, it’s a way of running the business.

Decisions about what to produce on the

property stem from Spencer and Hayter’s commitment to organic principles and

sustainable practices. Pigs, for example,

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FEATURE // Regional pairings

were introduced to stem the invasion of

declared pest the Arum lily. “To begin with, it was a regenerative farming strategy,”

says Hayter. “[Arum lily] are everywhere, they block up waterways and take over everything.”

After discovering pigs could eat the

plant, they were introduced to the farm — and the menu. The team at Arimia

take a different approach; although it’s a vineyard, the wine doesn’t prescribe

the food it’s served alongside. “The wine

doesn’t tell me what to cook,” says Hayter.

“But it still has to match well.”

The matches often come naturally, and

“We’ve all seen restaurants work with

from the local area creates a memorable

somms that build lists on large quantities,”

local producers means quality is ensured.

the close proximity of vines and other

bad produce, chefs that don’t care or

more a matter of farming practices than

says Cremming. “This [dinner series] is

produce could be to thank. It might be

environmental factors. The pigs at Arimia produce less robust pork than usual

about breaking all that down.”

experience for guests and working with Sourced a kilometre from her house in Avenel, the mushrooms are still warm

when they arrive at the winery, a further

because they’re fed a vegetarian diet. As a

Pairing local food with local wine will most

well with an elegant red such as the 2013

sustainability sells. “For people with

the mushrooms are grown as carefully as the

provenance, matching local wine to food is

of those can’t compare to a mushroom you

result, the cellar door’s pork ragout pairs Cabernet Merlot Petit Verdot, which is

exemplary of the Margaret River region.

Many who follow the what grows

together, goes together ethos are at the

likely come with higher costs. Fortunately, a heightened awareness around food

the ultimate from a philosophical point of view,” says Fowles.

Head chef Aitken agrees that storytelling

forefront of the industry’s sustainability

potential is second to none. The chef’s

St Kilda, Fowles and Arimia admit it’s not

with Avenel mushrooms, Berrys Creek blue

movement. The teams behind Stokehouse necessarily easy being green.

“It’s going to be hard to practice [the

principle] 100 per cent of the time,”

says Cremming. Beyond concerns about consistent supply, most operators face

economic pressures to find cheaper produce.

favourite match is the baked semolina

cheese and rocket pesto paired with the

Stone Dwellers’ 2017 Chardonnay. “It tells our story so well,” she says.

Working at a cellar door restaurant

means Aitken’s menu is in service of

the wines — pairing them with produce

20 minutes down the road.

For the kitchen team, it means knowing

grapes in their vineyard. “The flavour profile buy at a supermarket,” says Aitken.

In some ways, Stokehouse St Kilda’s dinner

series is a communication strategy. “The idea is to showcase a region,” says Hansford. “We pick the producers we want to promote.”

It’s not just marketing local businesses

to consumers, though; it’s an opportunity for the kitchen team to reconnect with

the ingredients they work with everyday.

“Producers say it’s beneficial to have [us] out here,” says Hansford. “But it’s actually more

beneficial for us to see the whole process and open our eyes to what the food industry is

really about and how things are produced.

“I want to find out exactly how these

ingredients were grown, who’s behind them, the workload, the effort and the passion that goes into producing these ingredients.”

While the exercise of pairing food and

wine from the same region is beneficial for

chefs, sommeliers and consumers alike, it’s not necessary to be dogmatic.

As Cremming says: “It’s not to say wine

from other areas won’t match with food

from other areas. It’s more to emphasise that you need not look elsewhere when Fowles’ baked semolina and Avenel mushrooms

36 | Hospitality

there’s something really special happening close by.” ■

FEATURE // Brunch in Singapore

Brunch with a twist The Lifestyle Brunch at Racines in Singapore is a feast for the eyes and the tastebuds.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros HOTELS ARE STEPPING up

and the option to DIY with a

aioli and parsley butter ragout

power in your hands, allowing

their food game and offering

range of fresh ingredients.

with wild mushrooms. Australian

customers to indulge in the

striploin is another top pick

freedom that comes with a

premium experiences that rival

But before you get carried

the best restaurants across

away with the buffet, don’t

along with lobster bisque and

buffet plus the à la carte menus

the globe. Racines in Sofitel

forget to try out the mains

slow-cooked Angus beef cheek.

curated by the restaurant’s

Singapore City Centre has

designed by executive Chinese

And what’s a meal without a

executive chefs. What’s better

created the ultimate Sunday

chef Andrew Chong and

glass of wine or a non-alcoholic

than that?

brunch that combines the best

executive chef Jean-Charles

option? Guests can choose from

of both worlds — a curated

Dubois. The signature menu

beverage packages ranging

and reservations, contact

buffet and à la carte mains.

offers a range of French and

from juices and sodas to wines,

HA152@sofitel.com

Singaporean dishes including

craft beers, Champagne and

diners can enjoy a range of

seafood laksa, crab rigatoni

revolving cocktails.

options from the buffet, with

with crispy spiced shallots,

special mention going to the

Hainanese chicken rice and

dessert atelier which covers

house-made viennoiseries and

French onion soup.

classic French sweets such as

Dubbed the Lifestyle Brunch,

For more information

The author was a guest of Sofitel Singapore City Centre. ■

Finish off the meal with the

éclair au chocolat and local

Hospitality’s picks

the salad atelier, which covers

with the premium menu created

desserts such as gulab jamun

Hainanese chicken rice

compound creations such as

by Dubois, with highlights

(fried milk balls in fragrant syrup)

sea salt-baked organic beetroot

including locally farmed frogs

and durian mousse cake.

with marinated feta and pear

legs with French pink garlic

15 French cheeses along with

38 | Hospitality

You can step things up a notch

The Luxury Brunch puts the

Rock lobster Dim sum platter

BEHIND THE SCENES // Texas-style brisket

The Taphouse’s

Texas-style brisket An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series.

THE TAPHOUSE head chef Richard Price is a “traditionalist” when it comes to barbecue. Letting quality meat shine is the aim for Texans, which is why he sticks to a classic salt and pepper rub for the venue’s smoked brisket. In the smoker, the chef uses a mixture of Australian ironbark with different fruit woods to add complexity.

Ingredients 6kg well-marbled brisket 2 tbsp coarse salt 2 tbsp coarse pepper

Method 1.

Trim underside of brisket to remove excess fat.

2.

Mix equal parts salt and pepper together and coat brisket evenly.

Wrap meat in foil and let sit overnight in refrigerator.

3.

Place on middle rack in smoker and cook for eight to 16 hours at 100 degrees Celsius, until the internal temperature reaches 95 degrees Celsius.

4.

Remove from smoker. Allow brisket to rest for one hour before slicing against the grain with a sharp knife. Aim for halfcentimetre-thick slices.

5.

Serve with chips, coleslaw, pickles and barbecue sauce.

Watch the video now at hospitalitymagazine.com.au

40 | Hospitality

facilitates ease

Egg rings aren’t a one-trick pony — they’re versatile tools for any kitchen.

prevents burns.

EQUIPMENT // Egg ring

Egg ring

A handle of use and A flat cooking surface protects against leakage from under the ring.

Rings come in a number of sizes and shapes.

Both silicon and stainless-

Used to fry and

steel versions are non-stick

poach eggs, shape

and easy to clean.

burgers, mould crumpets, make pancakes and mini Egg rings can be used

omelets and cut

on a grill or in the oven.

cookie dough.

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August 2019 | 41

5 MINUTES WITH ... // Nabila Kadri

Nabila Kadri The Hawker Hall head chef on getting out of her comfort zone, cooking as art and the importance of simplicity.

AFTER HIGH SCHOOL, I knew I wanted to

Chin, Baby, Kong and Kisumé. I have had

Melbourne is recognised as one of the food

before moving to France for over a year

cuisines and it’s something I carry with me

fact we have a bigger platform because of TV

be a chef. I studied and cooked in Australia where I worked in a beautiful brasserie in the south. I was supposed to be the sous

chef, but I ended up being the head chef.

It was a challenge because I didn’t know how to speak French, but it brought me

back to basics. The experience of having

the privilege of cooking across multiple

and try to empower my chefs with — it’s crucial to work across different cuisines.

It’s important for chefs to get out of their

comfort zone — we’re artists and we need to see every type of art.

Even though we’re working in a big

hubs of the world. I think it derives from the and social media. People have more product and cuisine knowledge and they have an appreciation for both luxury and simple

food. This freedom allows chefs to express themselves, rather than just doing a job.

The evolution of restaurants has allowed

to let my cooking speak for itself without

business, I like to take a personal interest

us to perform better, but it has also created

zero. I think all chefs should do that.

and needs to be managed in a different

is trying to reinvent the wheel more than

communication brought me back to ground

I’ve been privileged to work at many

Lucas Restaurants’ venues including Chin 42 | Hospitality

in my chefs. Every person is different

fashion. I think every team member, from

top to bottom, has something to contribute to the menu.

a tremendous amount of pressure. Everyone we should. I hope simple things will always have a place in our world and that we stay true to our cultures and cuisines. ■

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